Giving thanks: Family, friends, fitness, travel, the arts and vaccinations

Montana's most recent "gathering of the clan" --  50 people for Cookie's birthday celebration before
Covid. Today, we give thanks for each of these  loved ones -- who came from all over the country. 

 

MEMORIES, MAGIC AND MISSING THE HAPPY CHAOS OF HOLIDAYS

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

WE SANG this song with gusto, to please our grandmother Olive who taught us the melody and her revised lyrics. Her favorite holiday was Thanksgiving. Coming shortly after her Nov. 19 birthday, it was an extension of that -- a bonus time together to play music, Scrabble, pinochle and cribbage, to visit, cook and feast.

Thanksgiving aboard Celebrity Century, with niece
Amarylla, mum Ellen, sister Robbie, and Cookie.

Friends were invited -- "strays," as gran called them.  That included the Catholic priest, widowed neighbors, a favorite teacher -- divorced and alone -- later college and newspaper friends whose families lived on the other side of the country.

Gran's turkey wiggle recipe

MY GRANDPARENTS lived next door, so we didn't have far to go -- not "over the river" or "through the wood" but "down the steps and across the grass," our revised lyric. We were lucky to grow up with grandpa

Keller's and  Cookie's first Thanksgiving
 together was on the road at a Cuban restaurant.

rents steps away.  Having two homes was a luxury and our grandparents' plant and antique-filled house was safe haven from the tumult of our own hectic digs.

But there was joy in the chaos of our home, and I miss the holiday activity -- rehearsing in the music room for our traditional after-dinner concert, the wallop of ping pong paddles and balls in the garage game room, the milkman's faithful trudge up the back steps bringing beverages, cheeses and butter right into the kitchen, the reassuring slap of the morning paper against the front door, cats jumping on our beds to awaken us, dogs bringing their favorite fetch toys, fish to feed, plants to water, phone calls from those who couldn't make it.

One of Gran's beautiful tables.

OUR PARENTS would chat and tease, making appetizers and drinks for their open house. Next door, grandpa Gus whistled "Red River Valley" while helping gran Olive stuff and tie the the bird. 

We relished that alluring smell of turkey roasting, pumpkin pies baking, her famous mincemeat cookies cooling. I was in charge of setting several tables in the dining room, living room and kitchen-- two or three small ones for the kids. Granddad carved after sharpening his knife on a slick black stone.

Then, a weekend of leisurely prepared leftovers, including gran's famous "Turkey Wiggle." Everyone raided the frig for sandwiches  -- turkey, cranberry, mayonnaise, lettuce, swiss cheese, stuffing, sweet potatoes and pear chutney. Tupperwares of green and black olives, radishes, dill pickles, cucumber chips.

IT ALL SEEMS very Norman Rockwell, or "Father Knows Best."  Of course our lives were more complex than that. There were arguments, losses,

Thanksgiving for Keller and Cookie is usually on the
road -- here at the Bellagio in Las Vegas.

disappointments, illness, sorrow. As I grew older, married and embarked on my newspaper career, there were more empty chairs at the family's home table. With grandparents gone, Thanksgiving began to include a a trip somewhere.  Siblings and friends scattered across the U.S., as our Thanksgivings split into smaller groups, not one massive gathering as in days of yore.

THIS THANKSGIVING -- spending time with my beloved Keller, we're relaxing with my Georgia sister and brother-in-law in Florida. I'm thankful for those wonderful memories -- corny, sentimental, glorified by time, knighted by my affection for those departed and still on Earth.

Cookie and Keller on Thanksgiving Day at 
Malta's Blue Lagoon. Thanksgiving tradition
now is a trip somewhere for these travel writers.

LET'S CELEBRATE friendships and family, those old and deep bonds with people we may not see or talk to except on holidays, but hold dear in our hearts and memories.  This year, let's be especially thankful for science, which has given us vaccinations to withstand the virus and hope for a brighter future.

We're thankful to be "triple Pfizered," with our boosters and certificates in hand.  We're thankful to be fit enough to exercise, walk, travel, explore the world.

I'm thankful for masking, and for others who have the courtesy to respect that. 

Thanksgiving 2021: Celebrating with David and
 Misha Minesinger, Cookie and Keller in Atlanta.

NOW, BOTH Keller and I are orphans, the senior members of our families -- his small one and my giant, scattered clan.  We miss our elders, and sometimes don't feel ready for our positions.

Our friends feel the same -- all miss their families and carry sentimental memories of Thanksgiving Day.  Although I've not been a regular church goer for decades, I always play this wonderful old Dutch hymn on the nearest piano -- whether on a ship, or a host's home:

Cookie plays piano Thanksgiving ship board. 

We gather together to ask the Lord’s blessing;
He chastens and hastens His will to make known;
The wicked oppressing now cease from distressing;
Sing praises to His Name; He forgets not His own.

FOR ALL my blessings, I  am thankful: health, travel, music, friends, family. In my heart, we are ever together.  

 

This splendidly preserved Victorian house is a museum
now in Astoria, Oregon, where we visit next.

 

UP NEXT: Astoria, Oregon, is named for John Jacob Astor the first. He is revered, although he didn't found this charming oceanside town or even visit.  But his descendants have visited -- along with millions of tourists from all over the world. Find out why the town is so appealing as we take you there for a trolley ride, a climb up an intriguing tower for a bird's eye view of the Pacific, Victorian architecture and a world-class maritime museum and a foodie's paradise.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the world of arts, music, travel, family, nature and more: whereiscookie.com.

 

MAY TIDINGS: Celebrate spring with centuries old tradition

  In Denmark the Maypole tradition is all but extinct.  Originally, a real tree was used as dancers greeted the spring.
 Happily, we found a Maypole where the tradition is still observed, last spring south of Funen in Denmark.

May Day is celebrated in this popular London pub, by bringing baskets outside
and arranging more flowers inside. The baskets will remain through summer.

HAPPY MAY !
ENJOY SPRING FLOWERS,
SMELL THE ROSES,
STOP THE COVID BLUES COLD WITH A NOD TO THE SEASON

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

SO MUCH has changed since last May Day.  We celebrated the holiday in Denmark, then toured the Baltic and other countries of Northern Europe.  We looked forward to treasured time in Montana with family and friends, and back in southern California, went about our busy routine of plays, concerts,

This May Day basket carries spring flowers, and is left
on the door of a friend, a custom dating back centuries.

Bruce Keller photographed this bottle
brush bloom today in La Jolla, Calif.
Have a happy blooming May Day! 

fund raisers, dinners out.
We didn't realize how critical to our sanity  were those pleasures --the treasured holidays, and the  discipline of working on our shared and separate projects.
Hawaii's Botanical Garden
IN THE last spring of her life, my mother and I remembered the May Day baskets she supervised when we were kids. Under her artistic tuteledge, we cut colored construction paper into four sides and stapled the pieces together, then made handles of strings of doubled ribbon. We put stickers on the baskets, filled them with candy and flowers, placed them on our neighbors' doorsteps or hung from the door knob, rang the bell -- then ran.
Such innocent, sweet fun.

 Thousands demonstrated in Istanbul's Taksim Square.

THROUGH THE years, various events and situations gave May Day new meaning. Besides a time to welcome the change of season (spring in the Northern Hemisphere, autumn in the Southern), the day became associated with workers and labor.
Butchart Gardens for May Day
In the 19th century, particularly in western countries, the day came to represent labor movements for workers rights.  In the U.S., May Day demonstrations resulted in the eight-hour work day. We've photographed May Day demonstrations in Cairo, Istanbul and Athens, and because Keller and I have such happy memories

Our garden boasts an array of
blooms this spring. These are
"basket bound" for an elderly pal.

of making May Day baskets as kids, we are making one this year, both to remind of our childhood days and take our minds off Covid.

Although it's too early for hollyhocks in
Montana, there are jonquils and tiny
blossoms on the hillsides, and this photo
from last summer to remind of our home.

 WHILE WE are cutting and stapling, we're playing an audio tape about the history of the holiday, always celebrated on May 1.
May Day goes back to Roman times as a festival of flowers.  Even then, people made small baskets filled with treats or flowers to give secretly to friends and neighbors, just as we did in the 1950s. 

Beltane in Edinburgh means a large bonfire and offerings
of food and drink to the fairies, all "good witches." 

In Germanic countries, the Festival of Flora, the Roman Goddess of flowers is celebrated. Were it not for
Covid, our English cousins would be celebrating May Day, too, crowning a May Queen and having a dance around the maypole, as our Scandinavian cousins would be doing.

A windy sail last May Day off the coast of Funen.

THE EARLIEST May Day documentation I could find predates Christianity. In  Pagan cultures, the tradition of the Celtic celebration of Beltane is celebrated today, a holdover from Pagan times. Most pagan celebrations were either abandoned or evolved into Christian holidays during the conversion of Europe. For my cousins in Edinburgh and Dublin, Beltane remains a day of celebration. Some claim to be Wiccans and consider themselves "good witches. The fire they light today celebrates Beltane and honors fertility and abundance, of special significance to Wiccans.
My friends take part in the same customs their ancestors did, making offerings to the fire of food and drink for the "aos si" -- elves or fairies. Pronounc it "ees shee," or the older Celtic form  "ays sheeth-uh," the term for a supernatural race in both Irish and Scottish mythology.
WHATEVER your pleasure or belief, enjoy the day.

The ruins of Guatemala's proud Mayan culture await next week.

UP NEXT: Readers are wondering when they'll be back on the road with our columns and we're asking ourselves the same question: when will we be traveling again? We'll resume our regular travel columns next week, on May Day, with a visit to magnificent Mayan ruins in Guatemala, a trip we took just before Covid halted our travel -- and yours. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us  Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, food, the arts and more: whereiscookie.com

Food glorious food -- sure cure for anxiety in Covid's troubled times

This produce stand in Bangkok also offered beautiful flowers for our hotel room -- and fruit for a midnight snack.

 This array of Dutch cheese tempted in an Amsterdam market.

DON'T STOP TRAVELING IN YOUR HEAD --WHY NOT FIX A FEAST IN QUARANTINE TO RELIVE TRIP MEALS, FUN MEMORIES

"....there's nothing to stop us from getting a thrill
when we all close our eyes and imagine
Food, glorious food! Hot sausage and mustard!
While we're in the mood -- cold jelly and custard!  
Peas pudding & saveloys; what next is the question?  
Rich gentlemen have it, boys -- in-digestion!"
--from "Food, Glorious Food," the musical "Oliver"


STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

Here's a seafood feast, on a terrace in our Barcelona hotel. 
To combat Covid angst, we're replicating it, including the roses.

WITH OUR TRAVEL completely stopped, and its future in limbo, it's time to draw from memory our favorite trips, sights and tastes. Some of our happiest, most memorable travel impressions have to do with food. Sharing a meal with old friends at a reunion in a foreign port. Enjoying a leisurely feast in a new venue with new friends. Striking out on our own, finding a splendid meal featuring local specialties in a neighborhood taverna, probably family owned.

This little shop on the Gulf of Naples offers dried fruit,
nuts, candies and several varieties of limoncello.

These discoveries on the road leave lasting impressions. One can conjure up the very smells of that extraordinary puttanesca sauce or lamb fresh off the grill, dripping with olive oil pressed just up the street and garnished with a hint of lemon and mint leaves.
So we call on those beloved memories now, as isolation makes us yearn for those easy-going, fun and food-filled trips of yore.
Those days will come again.
MEANWHILE, remember how much fun it is to shop for a picnic, beverage or snack in a foreign market. How lovely to enjoy the displays, the fragrances -- perhaps lemons, clumps of oregano or thyme, a bouquet of roses -- and to watch the locals shopping -- gentle squeezing the avocados or tomatoes for the perfect one, tapping the melon, touching, eyeing, weighing the produce, picking out flowers to grace the dinner table,  asking advice on cheese, olives or wine.

If you're lucky enough to be invited to dinner while in a foreign port, how exciting to help prepare a meal with friends, sharing a glass of wine or two and mutual love of travel and culinary adventure. Chopping, dicing, sauteing, searing, putting a lovely feast together on a pretty table. What could be more pleasurable?

Bruce Keller takes
a home delivery
so we can make
a Mediterranean
crab feast. Fresh
flowers included.

Finally, sharing it, enjoying the presentation then the tastes, textures and compliments.

While we can't sit down to a meal in a Paris bistro right now, picnic in a park above Barcelona or admire the bounty of a rijsttafel table in Amsterdam, we can recall some of our favorite meals on the road. Go ahead, try to replicate a favorite far-away meal at home. Delightful antidote to Covid anxiety.

Friends Shula and Yosh Wickman enjoy an al fresco feast
at a favorite Israeli fish restaurant. Dining with locals at  
places they love is a time-honored traveler's treat.
Our hosts toured us from the Dead Sea to the Sea of Galilee.

ONE OF OUR favorite meal memories is of an al fresco lunch with friends Yosh and Shula, during a day of touring their beautiful Israel.

Today, our "food for thought" photos give a look at our feasting on the road.  Next week, we'll share tips for finding wonderful food and restaurants while traveling -- whenever you find your hungry self the new kid on the block in an unfamiliar venue.  

Here's a feast we shared, created from memories of southern European
tapas and small plate dining.  Wine,cheeses, berries, nuts, olives, pate,
  anchovies on the side, salad and warm nut-grain wheat rolls. A simple
flan with more berries made a beautiful, light dessert, all with white wine.

And here are a few of our favorite "roadie" snacks, suitable for picnics, train or plane travel, or for quick hunger fixes on the road in a rental car. If you're on a tour bus, you may have to wait until you're at a viewing promontory or off the bus for a quick cuppa or potty break.  (Some tour companies don't allow food on the bus.) We bring those little bags of unpopped corn and heat them in hotel microwaves.  Also carry a stash of protein bars and a six-pack of string cheese, which can stay a couple days out of the frig.
Grab a couple hard boiled eggs at the breakfast buffet for a quick energy hit on tour. (Make sure you peel them before you leave your hotel room, and consume within a couple hours.)
Carrots, grapes, hummus, celery and the local olives anywhere in southern Europe are great picnic fare.  Pick up a bottle of wine, a chunk of cheese, a baguette and local chocolate or fudge, and you've got a poor man's feast.

Whether you're looking for a good old hamburger after three weeks of
rich French cooking, or a lively tapas bar in Barcelona, we have tips.

UP NEXT:  Inquiring minds ask: how do we find consistently good restaurants on the road. Years and years of looking, asking the locals, taking notes, and eating! The best way to find a great restaurant is to ask someone who has lived there for awhile. We'll give some insights into finding the right place for you -- whether a kid-friendly family style eatery or a posh romantic bistro with live music. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh spin on nature, travel, the arts, being human and staying sane in Covid Times: www.whereiscookie.com

A bus turned hotel means vintage fun for two children of the '60s

Bohemian Bus Beautiful represents a delightful retro-inspired alternative to traditional hotels and hostelries.

CONVERTED BUS PROVIDES ARTISTIC GET-AWAY FOR CHILDREN OF THE WOODSTOCK ERA

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

The grounds reflect More's artistic bent and world travels.

YOU'LL BE happily falling down the Rabbit Hole if you venture into Bohemian Bus Beautiful.
Proprietor and designer Blake More wants you to remember her unique home -- and you will.

The interior of Bohemian Bus Beautiful is welcoming to humans -- and
small-dog friendly.  Here, Nora eyes the camera in the comfy digs.

WORLD TRAVELER, artist, poet, More hadn't planned to stay long in her spread near Point Arena, Calif.  When she moved to Mendocino County 22 years ago, she figured she'd last about three years "before I got the urge to pick up and fling myself elsewhere."
The imaginative bus remodeling project took place between More's yoga teaching, school workshops (she collaborates with musicians to encourage young students' creativity), and her inspired artwork which includes collage, tile work, painting, sculpture, sewing, needle art and floral arranging.
Every corner of the property reflects her artistry -- from the gorgeously appointed Malibu Shower complete with tile, plants and a half-dozen choices of soaps and lotions.
Her nature-inspired off-grid property is a mile-plus inland from the Pacific Ocean on California's famed Highway 1, in the woodlands of beautiful southern Mendocino County,
oet, performer, artist, teacher and yoga practitioner. I love to garden, swim, hike, dance and travel (I

The artist's life of travel and residency in
every continent is reflected in her artwork.

have been on every continent)!
Each inch of the reconfigured school bus-guest house enlightens and enlarges the guest's perspective. Her wall collages, tables, trunks and lamp shades reflect her travels and life in Cuba, Japan, Amsterdam and the Bay Area.
More's immense talent in the visual arts mixes mediums seldom juxtaposed and combined.  She does both those with a unique flair.
Another imaginative enterprise
BOTH OUTSIDE the bus and around the grounds, guests are free to admire and use outdoor bath tubs (his and hers), artful mobiles and lighting, creative furniture, rock art.  Inside, the kitchen counter boasts a spectacular abalone design, mixed beautifully with a smooth finish.  Light-switch plates are collages.  Wood, plastic and metal all mix, merge and complement.

The bathroom offers
creative wall art and
abundant reading choices.

Blake's beautiful abalone
inlay work graces the
bnb's kitchen counter.

The property is secluded and sunny, surrounded by organic gardens and mature trees, native flowers and bushes.  Inside, a small, tidy kitchen has everything one needs to cook a pleasant
meal, with several of the windows screened to accommodate evening breezes. The queen bed is comfortable and pillows abound, for propping up for a late-night read. Cooler nights and crisp mornings are warmed by a cozy wood stove.

 Cookie and Keller relax at Bohemian Bus Beautiful.

Another artist's vision
 WE FOUND ourselves fascinated from the beginning of our three-day stay to the end.  There is such an abundance of creativity, detail and inspiration that one needs to spend at least a couple days to fully appreciate it.
 Even the bathroom, a short stroll from the bus, is inspired. "Comfy, creative, welcoming" describe the spirit of Bohemian Bus Beautiful.
And, important news for us, the bnb is small-dog friendly.  Just let Blake know in the initial negotiations.  Rates are reasonable and longer stays result in a price break.

airbnb.com; californiaoneway.com › bohemian-bus

The architecture of the Mayan classical period is described
by a guide at the historic site of Iximche. 

UP NEXT: Guatemala. Come explore the ruins of the Mayan people in the remote villages of Guatemala. We visit archeological sites including Iximche, for a look at a remarkable historical lrgacy left by indigenous people.
Come with us, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com.

Naples, Amalfi: noisy, elegant, brash, dignified, enduring -- plus pizza

If the Amalfi Coast calls you, Naples is where you'll likely land first, via airplane or ship. Then on to Positano, or
perhaps charming Sorrento. Don't miss the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, victims of still steaming Vesuvius.  

NAPLES: LIVELY, HISTORIC GATEWAY TO AMALFI, SORRENTO, ANCIENT VESUVIUS RUINS

Cigarettes and cell phones on a colorful Naples street.
This lively, ancient city is a gateway to Pompeii, Amalfi and more.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

OLD MEETS NEW, noise collides with calm, clutter meets elegance in one of southern Europe's great, enduring cities.
In Naples and this diverse corner of Italy are courtyards and grand staircases, elegant halls and busy streets, buses, scooters, smokers,  tourists, busts, dust, great museums, majestic cathedrals and irreverent youth.

Bruce Keller waits in Naples at the Napoli Garibaldi
train station.  He is framed by a billboard for Strega,
 an orange flavored Italian liquer popular in Naples.  

The city is one of contrasts and extremes, sandwiched between the Campi Flegrei, or "burning fields" and a sleeping volcano.

Just steps from the  sea, Naples
rises up, with antiquity and grace.

THE VOLCANO, Vesuvius, is one of the major attractions for visitors to Naples, who usually plan a few sidetrips -- to Positano and the Amalfi Coast, lovely Sorrento and two famous ruined cities.

Both Pompeii and Herculaneum have interesting museums
with sculptures, displays and interesting background.

In AD79, Vesuvius destroyed Pompeii, south of Rome, in about 25 hours. A full day is about what you should plan to see the fascinating city.   The preserved site features excavated ruins of streets and houses that one can freely explore. Because the city was buried so quickly by volcanic ash, it is an eerily, well-preserved snapshot of life in a Roman city -- people crafting pottery, shopping, even giving birth.
Equally fascinating is nearby Herculaneum, also destroyed by the vengeful Vesuvius. Unlike Pompeii, though, the smaller, wealthier city was encased in a pyroclastic material that covered and carbonized the town.  This preserved wood in objects -- roofs, beds and doors -- and organic-based materials such as food for us to study.
Most but not all of the residents evacuated the city in advance, the first well-preserved skeletons of 400 people who perished near the seawall were discovered in 1980.

Italy's train stations will get you from Naples to the
historic cities destroyed by Vesuvius. (Plus shopping, ask Cookie!)

The easiest way to get from Naples to Pompeii or by Herculaneum is by train.
Each takes about 30-40 minutes and there are many of these friendly "regional" trains.
WE LIKE the trains but if you prefer a shuttle, that's a possibility, too. We recommend CBS Tours (Can't Be Missed) for a personalized day tour up the Amalfi Coast to Positano. Terrific commentary, small vehicle.
Back in Naples, a pizza maker sings Verdi while he works his dough. You're in the birthplace of pizza, so enjoy.  Young boys approach the tourist with smiles and Neapolitan gestures.  Couples lounge in wicker seats drinking champagne at outdoor cafe tables -- as early as 10:30 a.m.
Life is lived large in the streets. Strollers enter a mix of students, housewives, children with music everywhere: a mix of opera, hard-rock and Italian folk songs. Music is in the Neapolitan soul.

Keller and Cookie admire the view of Amalfi.

 IF HOMER is to be believed, Ulysses was the first mariner to escape temptation in the Bay of Naples. According to "The Odyssey," Ulysses knew of the bay’s infamous sirens — part women, part bird or nymph — who lured sailors to their death by singing so beautifully that no one could sail on without succumbing. So when returning from the Trojan War, he plugged the ears of his crew with beeswax and bound himself to the mast until they were safely past the sirens. Angry over their failure to seduce the sailors, one of the sirens, Parthenope, drowned herself. The original Naples supposedly began on the spot where she washed ashore.

CBM Tours offers spirited treks up the Amalfi Coast and more.

Communities around Naples date to the second millennium before Christ. Europeans visit Naples for its mild, sunny Mediterranean climate, safe harbor, turquoise sky, and indigo sea. Its lush green look is enhanced by rich volcanic soil and an easy growing season. THE RAVAGES of World War II are mostly repaired, as are the results of centuries of earthquakes and volcanic activity. The traditional Christmas trees are up for a few more days!

Celebrated for its paintings, mosaics and music, Naples is breathtakingly beautiful approached from the sea. But don't miss a few days "up the road" to Sorrento, those two ruined cities and Amalfi's enchanting coastline. 

MORE INFO: In many trips to this gorgeous part of Italy, Can't Be Missed Tours is our favorite: cantbemissedtours.com;  And for general information on the area: visitnaples.eu/en

Nick, left, and Nora, were four months old in this photo, taken early in 2006.

UP NEXT:  Why the fuss about dogs from yours truly this week?  One doggie, in particular, our Yorkshire terrier, Nora, came close to the Rainbow Bridge but has made a remarkable comeback thanks to a fine veterinarian, a doggie ICU and plenty of TLC from the human species.  Doggone it, we love our pets and make no apology. Discover how Yorkie Nora and her brother, Nick came to Cookie as puppies and helped save this reporter's life. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, theater, art, nature, family and more.

www.whereiscookie.com

John and Yoko's peaceful Dutch 'Love In' remembered 50 years later

Remembering the days of yore, Christene "Cookie" Meyers checks out the John and Yoko suite at Amsterdam Hilton. 

BEATLES FANS VISIT FAMOUS HOTEL SUITE REMEMBERED FOR 1969 "BED IN"

The hotel is a smart, stylish property and the suite pays homage to
the famous couple's peaceful protest there 50 years ago.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

"You may say I'm a dreamer,
But I'm not the only one.
I hope someday you'll join us,
And the world will live as one."
-- from 'Imagine', on its 48th anniversary

Stylish architecture and plush amenities are offered
for those who wish to pay $2,000-plus a night.

WE ALL REMEMBER the photos.
John Lennon and Yoko Ono in bed, surrounded by flowers, signs and musical instruments.
It was 1969 and the Vietnam War was raging.
The famous couple staged two week-long Bed-Ins for Peace, one at the Hilton Hotel in Amsterdam and one at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel in Montreal.
We visited the first hotel on a recent trip to the Netherlands, spending a week in this quiet, peaceful corner of Amsterdam.
"Peaceful" is the key word here for the two hotel visits were intended to be nonviolent protests against wars and experimental tests of new ways to promote peace.
Our host for a tour of the famous suite was the hotel's delightful public relations specialist, Anastasija, who is too young to remember the time in which the non-violent events occurred.

Photographer Eric Koch faked a press card to gain
entrance to the famous "Bed In" and the couple
preferred his photos to others taken that week.

She smiled as she told the stories, though, including comments from journalists covering the event. "They remarked that the two were welcoming to visitors and the press, but that the room began to smell a bit toward the end of the week. As part of the protest, they did not bathe."
The Amsterdam property has enlarged the original John and Yoko room into a small suite which is in high demand at $2,090 a night (1899 Euros). The guestbook boasts signatures of happy couples from Japan to Australia, Germany, Spain and the United Kingdom. The couple had recently married in Gibraltar and many honeymooners stay there now.

Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers in the John and Yoko
suite, Amsterdam Hilton, overlooking a lovely canal.

THE BATHROOM  of 50 years ago was not as plush as today's expanded room with its large oval bathtub, separate walk-in shower, plush bathrobes and slippers, plus other VIP amenities.
  The idea for the 1969 event derived from the era's popular "sit ins" when protesters seated themselves in front of or inside an establishment until they were evicted, arrested, or had their demands met.
THERE ARE IRONIES and anecdotes to the famous visit.  The Hilton was not the first choice of the couple, but accepted their reservation knowing that the visit might attract international attention.  "We have certainly benefited from the event," Anastasija commented. And, she agreed, the other Dutch hotel which declined to host the couple has probably had regrets.
A sketch made by the pair is now used in advertising the suite which is tastefully decorated
with John and Yoko memorabilia. Among the nostalgic objects are a copy of one of his guitars, many photographs, sketches and notebooks.

A stroll from the hotel takes the tourist past lovely canals and many bikers.

We loved the location of the hotel, a 10-minute walk from  Holland's fabled Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Vondelpark.
If the couple had been hungry they could have feasted at Roberto's, 

or sipped a cocktail at the Half Moon Lounge, an inviting garden terrace with splendid canal views in a luxurious residential area.
INSTEAD, they ate little and when they did, it was a few spoonsful of cold Campbell's soup.
What did the peace-in teach us? Most believe it had little effect on the war, but its artistic contribution lives on.
Says one scholar of the period, "The idea that sitting in bed for a week might have caused Richard Nixon to revise his foreign policy looks a tad hopeful, to say the least."

London's Eating Europe tour offered a delightful
 mix of tastings from spicy curry to sticky pudding
 and fish and chips served in newspaper.

NEXT UP: Next time in Europe, try a delightful "taste and tour" opportunity.  We just did in London and happily recommend Eating Europe Food Tours now in many European cities.  The innovative concept combines eating and touring -- fine food at several stops with lively, expert guides sharing best-kept food and drink secrets with a learned nod to history. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a unique view of travel, the arts, nature, family, food and more.