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A wide-ranging group of several hundred people watched a spectacular "Hamlet" in Fishtail Family Park. All ages make up the audience which offered a standing ovation at play's end.   TRAVELING TROUPE BRINGS SHAKESPEARE TO THE MASSES IN AMBITIOUS MONTANA PROGRAM  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER As "Hamlet," Riley O'Toole delivers the famous "alas poor Yorick" speech. It is one of the Bard's most famous speeches, reflecting on the brevity of life. The skull is his jester's.    FOR MORE than a half-century, Montana Shakespeare in the Parks has produced top theater across Big Sky Country, and in our neighboring states. The program, based in Bozeman at Montana State University, offers free high caliber entertainment by a gifted company from many U.S. states. Donations are encouraged because audience support is necessary to supplement funding from Montana Cultural Trust. Packed parks and other venues in 65 communities and 110 schools experience live classic theater.  Many have never seen a play, much less professional Shakespearean drama.  As a mother said at a recent "Hamlet" in Fishtail, "This is priceless:  educational, enriching, unique. My kids love it." Bruce keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at Fishtail Family Park for a terrific "Hamlet." EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Kevin Asselin applauds the program's longstanding tradition of collaboration with communities. "It is inspiring to witness how people unite through the power of storytelling." All ages come together to enjoy the company's efforts, both in schools and park performances. Longtime director Joel Jahnke directed the successful program for 36 years, building friendship and support across a daunting demographic area.  His tireless efforts continue in the energy of the 2024 company, with fine actors such as Riley O'Toole, whose "Hamlet" fascinates and thrills audiences. Gender bending is part of the fun, too. Justine Ryan, for instance, plays Hamlet's friend Guildenstern. It's a terrific, talented company with no weak links. A play within the play: Hamlet has arranged for a troupe of actors to present a sketch in which the king is poisoned. Avery Johnson pretends to commit the deed.   PEOPLE BRING their lawn chairs and blankets early, and set up their places. It's fine to bring a cooler or picnic basket, as people often do.  Children are amazingly quiet and attentive, and families are welcome to this popular event. Joel Jahnke was director of the successful touring program for 36 years. The troupe of seasoned actors doubles as costumers, technicians, designers and fund-raisers for one of the state's most enterprising organizations. The troupe tours the Rockies each year to the delight of playgoers from eastern Washington to northern Wyoming,  Montana and even North Dakota With a schedule that would challenge most actors, the young, limber company presents two plays in repertory fashion. Montana Shakespeare in the Parks was started in 1973 by the late Bruce Jacobsen. Jahnke came to MSU in 1976, when the company was only three years old. The company has always shown remarkable energy, but the schedule was shorter then -- touring to  Executive-artistic director Kevin Asselin sustains the vision and directs "Hamlet." only 22 communities, up from seven. WHAT MAKES the endeavor noteworthy is that in a single day, the company transforms an empty space into a believable theatrical stage -- complete with balcony, set, costumes and technical enhancements. The feat is remarkable when one considers it is done day after day with little time off and in unpredictable weather. In the foreground are Jamie Herb as Ophelia and Riley O'Toole as Hamlet. Seated are Calvin Adams as the plotting Claudius and Emily Michelle Walton as his new wife Gertrude. Besides "Hamlet," the company features "The Winter's Tale," which also deals with themes of jealousy and infidelity. Redemption and forgiveness are at the heart of this lighter, more lyrical play, while "Hamlet" is a revenge play, perhaps one of history's most famous and intense theatrical works. An extensive outreach program includes the popular school programs and other fund-raisers and presentations. A tender moment in "The Three Musketeers" from the 2023 tour. The season began in  hometown  Bozeman for a week. Stops are mostly a single night, or occasionally two. The troupe always performs in Bozeman for Sweet Pea Festival, and during the summer visits Butte, Big Sky, Glendive, Lewistown, Roundup, Big Timber, Columbus, Gardiner, Red Lodge, and many other towns.   The production visits Pocatello, Idaho; Beach, North Dakota; Liberty Lake, Washington, and several Wyoming towns. The August docket finds the company in Salmon, Idaho, Dillon, Deer Lodge, Helena, Great Falls, Polson, Missoula, Anaconda, and more.  The tour ends in September, with performances in Townsend, Butte, Boulder, White Sulphur Springs, Livingston, Pony, Whitehall, Twin Bridges and back to hometown Bozeman, for the Sept. 10 finale of "Hamlet." For more information, to find a date near you, or to donate :  shakespeareintheparks.org   Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers high in the Swiss Alps aboard Bernina Express, passing through the UNESCO World Heritage site of Rhaetian Railway. UP NEXT : Bernina Express offers a thrilling way to observe some of the world's most spectacular mountain scenery.  We hopped aboard to transit the Alps, passing through a UNESCO World Heritage site, and stopping several times to soak up the view.  Even in summer, it's cool up here! Come with us to enjoy this panoramic train which  connects the north of Europe to its south – passing by glaciers and dense forests.  Meanwhile, enjoy, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, family, nature, performance and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

THE PLAY'S THE THING BUT HARD WORK GOES INTO PRODUCING A RIGOROUS TOUR STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "Perseverance... keeps honor bright"  from Shakespeare's "All's Well That Ends Well" Actor Avery XXXXX offers programs,either an old-fashioned paper playbill orif preferred, a code to scan.   MONTANA SHAKESPEARE  in the Parks has been happily persevering for 53 years. That's how long a dedicated company of talented actors and technical wizards has been sharing Shakespeare's magic with rural communities in an impressive five-state region. Through rain, wind, heat, cold and occasional hail, the show goes on.  The West's notorious weather swings do not prevent the company from performing in 60 towns across five states, June through September. THE ENSEMBLE  schlepps set, costumes and equipment to parks, fairgrounds, school yards and other venues, packing the collapsible set in a tidy truck. With free performances held under open skies and only donations to attend, this treasured summer tradition invites audiences of all ages to gather for an evening of storytelling, connection, and culture. A look back at the project, click here Dressed in period costumes, from left: Calvin Adams, Sam Cheeseman and Nadja Simmonds check messages on their phones before going on stage. THE DIRECTORS choose two works -- usually a comedy and a tragedy. This year's romantic comedy, “As You Like It” speaks to the joy and complexity of love, identity and the transformative power of nature. Fans know it features Rosalind, a complex female character, as she ventures into the Forest of Arden with a colorful cast of characters.  Artistic director Kevin Asselin promises the high quality production values grateful audiences have come to expect. He also thinks "Henry V" will have modern meaning as it grapples with leadership, moral complexity and power. "Henry must listen, reflect and learn while inspiring, persuading and unifying," says Asselin. "All timely considerations." The ensemble charms wherever it tours, including educational outreach. Here, they gather at Tippet Risefor a production. The arts venue is near Fishtail, Montana. Asselin explains the Bozeman based company’s mission as "bringing togetherness and unity to rural communities." The actors come to our Montana State University base from across the U.S., and are always eager to visit, share their knowledge and act as vehicles to unite folks. "Together, we do a much greater thing," Asselin says. He emphasized that recent political events have cut into federal funding, and usual grants are imperiled. Thus, private and corporate contributions are vital to the program's survival, he said. Several of the stops involve towns close to one another, enabling people to see both plays on the docket, one in each venue. "It's great in towns where we can pair -- like Lewistown and Utica." An audience in Fishtail Family Park last season. This year's Fishtail performance is "As You Like It" July 11. The two venues are only 36 miles apart, "so residents can easily see both shows. In that respect, we bring locals together,” he said, "to get to know one another's communities." The 2025 tour includes venues from Beach, North Dakota, to Afton, Cody and Powell, Wyoming, Driggs, Idaho,  eastern Washington state, and many Montana venues.  “We are dedicated to bringing high quality work by talented artists, who see something greater than themselves, to great audiences who otherwise would not have this opportunity.” — Joel Jahnke - artistic director emeritus and company founder   "The Three Musketeers" drew raves in its 2023 season, a rare departure from Shakespeare. FOR THIS  53rd season, eight professional actors from across the U.S., are enacting a lively rendition of the two classics. The company has been seen by more than 750,000 people during 2,250 performances since 1973.  It also presents an educational school tour, sharing Shakespeare with more than 12,000 middle and high-school students each season-- and a few lucky adults.  This year's tour travels from Kalispell to Plentywood, Bozeman to Hardin and Sidney, dipping down into Wyoming to Cody, Powell, Meeteetse, Worland and Buffalo. With all the moving about, packing up, striking the set dozens of times, "We feel the acting is the reward," says actor Avery Johnson. "We work so hard then we get to do what we really love!" Click here for schedule, more info   The historic Grand Hotel in Big Timber is undergoing a loving facelift. We take readers to the "redo" of this 1890 Montana landmark.  ON TAP:  As summer reaches its peak and travelers are exploring, an historic Big Timber, Montana, hotel is returning to its glory days, thanks to artful restoration plans by an enterprising family with long ties to ranching, farming, Montana and the West. The Grand Hotel's facelift began on the ground floor and is continuing to the upstairs rooms with Kim and Steve Germain and their daughter, Jessica, at the helm of the restoration. The Germains plan to name the vintage looking rooms after characters of the old west, and are excited to be restoring the Sunday brunch in the restaurant and other traditions -- live music, gourmet dining and a unique boutique hotel experience. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, dining, nature, performance, art, family and more. Please share the links:  Click here for more whereiscookie Click here for more on Grand Hotel

A "bonus concert" arranged just days before, capped a weekend opening as world class musicians performed at Tippet Rise' Art Center. Noted pianist Yevgeny Sudbin, left, thrilled the Olivier Music Barn audience Saturday with Chopin, Debussy and more. Sunday, his wife Sally Wei, and their gifted children performed a "pop up" family concert, receiving a standing ovation from the delighted audience.  Singer Ema Nikolovska charmed Tippet Rise concert goers with her dramatic voice and playful asides. AT HOME ON THE RANGE, INTERNATIONALLY KNOWN PERFORMERS DELIGHT AT FISHTAIL'S UNIQUE ARTS VENUE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Concert goers include a mix of back packers, hikers, bikers and others, all mingling for a concert, this one at Domo. FROM THE world's great concert halls to a nature driven Montana venue, a slate of world-renowned performers graces Tippet Rise Art Center each summer. The 2024 season began last weekend, on this unique working ranch and arts venue where a select few of the world's great musical artists arrive each summer to perform.  They sing, play instruments and soak up nature with a packed house of  international music aficionados, selected in a drawing each March for concerts in several magnificent venues both indoors and in outdoor creations.  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers have written about and photographed the venue since its beginning.   We spent time at this season's opening weekend with two Berlin based performers who sing the praises of the place. Toronto born mezzo-soprano Ema Nikolovska and Georgia born pianist Kunal Lahiry said they're hoping to be invited back "because the place is absolutely inspiring. From the Calder statue at sunrise to a walk in moonlight on the grounds, there's nothing like it anywhere else in the world," Nikolovska said as Lahiry smiled and nodded. "Inverted Portal" welcomes visits to walk around or through its expanses. It's one of many intriguing artworks, each one occupying separate space. Built without a budget, it's the multi-million dollar creation of philanthropists and artists Cathy and Peter Halstead, heirs to a fortune made by Cathy's father, Sidney Frank, who became a billionaire through his promotion of Grey Goose vodka and J ä germeister. Frank gave millions to educational and artistic endeavors and his painter daughter and her pianist-poet husband are following suit.  Tippet Rise incorporates their love of sculpture, music and nature in a unique artistic creation. Geology tours explore the land's history Alexander Calder's "Two Discs" on an early spring day, with snow still on the hilltops.   "We love this place," said pianist Lahiry, echoing Nikolovska's sentiment that "the landscape has moved us forever." He called the place "magical. The environment is gorgeous -- unlike anywhere else --  and the audience is so appreciative and sincere -- not jaded like some we've experienced in city venues."  The pair received two standing ovations at their Sunday concert, which featured wide-ranging vocal-piano works merging the poetry of Emily Dickinson with Schubert, Copland and others, including  contemporary composer Nahre Sol, whose "digital prayer" was performed by the pair with playful grace. Kunal Lahiry's expressive piano illustrates his virtuoso solo brilliance and ability to accompany Ema Nikolovska with sensitivity and precision. Nikolovska charmed the house with her range and power, and versatility in interpreting time honored classical work as well as modern, impressionistic pieces. With Lahiry's expressive piano, she emulated a buzzing bee, an insistent fly and sounds of the internet. Like the finest accompanists, Lahiry displayed his own dazzling technique to enhance Nikolovska's captivating voice. The two perfected their delivery in four years of intensive rehearsal. At the impromptu family concert, five members of the Yevgeny Sudbin family charmed and delighted. "Music saved us during COVID," Sudbin said. He introduced his gifted children and  talented wife, pianist Sally Wei, who also turned pages for her husband and children during duets.   Stephen Talasnik's "Satellite No. 5: Pioneer" incorporates space, and the artist's desire to show connection to land and our roots. Sudbin is considered one of the 21st Century's most accomplished pianists. Other performers chosen this summer include acclaimed  Frano-Belgian cellist Camille Thomas, award winning Cleveland Orchestra flutist Jessica Sindell, a trio featuring TR regular Anne-Marie McDermott, violinist Chad Hoopes and cellist Christopher Costanza, all lauded chamber players and soloists. IT WAS FUN  to notice license plates in the parking lot a short walk above the Olivier Music Barn: Michigan, Illinois, Vermont, Idaho, A packed house in the acoustically perfect Olivier Music Barn. Oregon, Utah and Illinois.  In the concert venues and restaurant, we heard French and German, along with various American and English accents. Hikers mingled with bicycle riders, concert goers and families enjoying     Cathy and Peter Halstead spent years searching for a perfect venue for their dream . lunch. The mixed crowd is a metaphor for the place, exactly what the Halsteads envisioned more than a decade ago. They explored the U.S. to find a setting to build their dream, desiring a place where people were free to move about the land, admiring sculpture and nature, appreciating it as an extension of their enjoyment of the musical arts. Mission accomplished.  The season continues through Sept. 15 with internationally famed quartets, soloists and ensembles, masters of violin, viola, cello oboe, flute, piano, bassoon, clarinet and more. tippetrise.org Enjoying a day in Rome, by the Trevi Fountain, are from left: Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Rick Cosgriffe and his partner Jane Milder. The couples spent two weeks in Europe   UP NEXT:  "Travels With My Brother."  My sibling Rick and I have traveled in Europe several times, but it had been decades since we explored together.  We changed that when Bruce Keller and I met Rick Cosgriffe and Jane Milder for a Mediterranean cruise, for an exciting, adventure filled two weeks together. We explored ports in Portugal, France, Spain and a few days in Italy. It's a wonderful memory, the reason we urge readers to "seize the day" as Labor Day weekend approaches. It's a carpe diem world so time to fulfill  travel dreams, particularly with loved ones. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, performance, nature, family and more:   www.whereiscookie.com

CROSSING FIT FOR A QUEEN OFFERS ENDLESS OPPORTUNITIES FOR ACTIVITY OR TO SIMPLY SAVOR, RELAX, ENJOY  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers worked out every morning to allow them a few extra calories at QM2's afternoon tea. I CRIED when my favorite Queen Elizabeth 2, made her final voyage.  It was in 2008. This venerable ship languished for a decade before being converted to a floating hotel in Dubai's Port Rashid in 2018.  I'd crossed the Atlantic five times on QE2, sailed the Norwegian fjords in her penthouses, and  played piano in her elegant bars. I cried again -- tears of joy -- aboard Queen Mary 2, which revives the stylish tradition of the world's grand ocean liners. Grandeur lives on in Cunard Cruise Line's fleet where passengers experience the old world elegance of a not yet bygone era. We're so smitten, we've stayed several times in the original Queen Mary, now a hotel in Long Beach, California. And we are about to embark on our second QM2 crossing.  Queen Mary keeps sentinel aboard  QM2, in this elegant bronze. CUNARD GROOMS its team to continue the line's elegant traditions aboard four luxurious ships: Queen Mary 2, Queen Elizabeth, Queen Victoria and Queen Anne.  The quartet's  diverse itineraries include Europe, Asia and North America. QM2 was completed in 2003 and reigns as the world's only trans-Atlantic ocean liner to offer regular, often sold-out service between New York and Southampton.  So what accounts for her demand? We asked David Shepard, QM2's dapper hotel manager, to explain the ship's popularity. LEADING THE "appeals list," he said at a cocktail party, is the variety of offerings during the week-long crossing. If one can't be amused or entertained on QM2, he's probably on life support. We observed a happy mix of passengers, in both black tie and blue jeans, a metaphor for QM2's allure. While most  American travelers don't prefer formal nights, many Brits and Europeans do. So Cunard offers those, with alternatives if one doesn't care to don tux or gown. One can dress to the nines, with white glove waiters and ballroom dancing, or laze in a robe for the best room service afloat. Restaurants and buffets offer everything from appetizers to decadent desserts. Friendly waiters share recipes and send print-outs to your stateroom. Dining venues depend on what class room you've booked. OTHER SHIPS  allow only service dogs on board. QM2 boasts a loyal following of devoted pet lovers who know she's the only ship that allows them to cross the pond with their pups and cats. We met three couples who have crossed multiple times, lured by daily visitations and the pampering their pets get from the ship's kennel master. Pet lovers may cross with their  beloved animals -- in QM2 style. VARIETY IS  QM2's hallmark. There's a table tennis tournament, a spectacular planetarium, and a jazzy DJ nightclub if one doesn't want to swirl in Queens Room, the largest ballroom at sea.  There are classic movies in your stateroom, fencing classes, wine tastings, a huge gym and lavishly appointed spa. We enjoyed fine lectures and strolled the Deck 7 promenade. We admired the art deco motif as we  walked the grand staircase, part of a 2017 remastering with a budget of $177 million.   David Shepard continues Cunard's old-world elegance and tradition as QM2 hotel manager. How to cross with your pet    White gloved waiters reflect tradition  and formality. QM2's afternoon tea is one of the ship's draws. QUEEN MARY 2 is the crown jewel of one of the world's smallest fleets. Yet Cunard is perhaps the best-known cruise line, with her 184 years of history dating to 1840. Founder Samuel Cunard, a savvy businessman from Halifax, Nova Scotia, had a vision of elegance that remains the focus of the line.  Portraits of him, looking dapper and distinguished, are flanked by elaborate floral arrangements throughout the ship.   The line's iconic status gives Shepard a high standard of tradition to maintain.  Sir Samuel Cunard, founder of the line, is remembered in portraits on QM2. FORMALITY combines with the feeling "that one is enjoying something unique," he says. Because our crossing capped a two-month trip, we didn't have full black tie for the formal nights. When other ships were dropping those, Cunard listened to clients who enjoy dressing up. So we admired fellow passengers in jazzy flapper outfits, complete with fringe and bow ties and joined them to enjoy a string quartet, elegant meal and ballroom dancing in the Queens Room. There are other old-world touches: two ornate theaters, white glove embarkation service, luncheon piano concerts and matinees, dozens of formally arranged artworks, and afternoon tea with luscious scones. (See recipe below.)  SMOOTH SAILING  is another advantage of crossing on QM2. Actors show aspiring fencers how it's done. We watched fellow passengers learn the art.   She was designed to be "steady on" as she transits occasionally turbulent seas, keeping passengers comfy and safe. My sailor husband explained that her hull has a deeper draft than cruise ships. Her bow moves sleekly through waves while less sturdy ships may bounce. We've crossed on smaller ships where the captain asked us to remain in our cabins during rough seas. Once, an 8-day crossing turned to 11 days as we struggled through 25-foot waves at seven knots. QM2 can cut through rough waters at 24 knots.    Top lecturers are a draw aboard QM2, here an engaging talk on the colorful life of Gala and Salvador Dali. She weighs in at 151,400 tons, the largest passenger ship when she was christened by Queen Elizabeth 2 in 2004. But while most similarly sized vessels carry 4,000 or 4,500 passengers, she carries only around 2,600 passengers. Plenty of space including our sheltered veranda, which allowed fresh air in privacy, even on a cool day.   A BIG HOORAY for QM2's actual library, overlooking her bow. We were happily distracted for  hours with hundreds of books -- a rarity in today's cruising world when most ships have done away with old-fashioned libraries. Queen Mary's is well stocked with a knowledgeable librarian. Cookie enjoys a real library on QM2, a rarity these days. Because there are no ports of call on QM2's crossings, shipboard activities are crucial to us. Others awaken to a mimosa, nap after a mid-day meal, play a game of bridge. We like movies, concerts and lectures with topics ranging from the future and technology, to "life on the road" with a British journalist, to stories of the Concorde airplane by a seasoned pilots. Cunard's excellent "Insights" lecturers    Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers dressed  up to dance aboard QM2. are authors, actors, professors, CEOs, ambassadors and other professionals.  On QE2,  I'd interviewed actor Kevin Kline, composer Andre Previn and director Josh Logan. So I was delighted that quality continues in QM2's lectures on the cold war, space travel, espionage, politics and theater. A favorite lecture featured eccentric surrealist artist Salvador Dali and his promoter/wife Gala. QM2's CONCERTS and theater cuttings are fabulous, too, from classical music to the Royal Shakespeare Company. We dipped in both the indoor and outdoor swimming pools, considered the offerings of QM2's Canyon Ranch spa, invested in the casino, picked up gifts at the shops, and explored a dozen bars and lounges. We kept active dawn to dusk, rousing ourselves for exercise class in the Queens Room, snacking, reading, taking in lectures, movies,  afternoon tea, dinner, a show, then ending the day full circle with a dance in that versatile Queens Room.  Sleep at last, to dream of QM2, with our veranda door cracked to the sound of the sea. To book or inquire: cunard.com Before or after you sail: Southampton has four fabulous aquariums.    www.southamptonlivingwaters.co.uk/ www.dayoutwiththekids.co.uk/things-to-do/south-east-and-london/hampshire/southampton/animals/aquariums TRY MAKING CUNARD'S SCONES: A Queen Mary 2 scone, with blueberry jam and clotted cream. Divine. 2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature ⅔ cup milk 1 large egg 1 cup raisins Directions 1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. 2. Mix lightly flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Blend, not too much stirring. 3. Add the butter, egg, milk, raisins. 4. Drop on buttered pan. Bake until golden brown, checking at 12-15 minutes. Serve with jam and clotted or whipped cream. Add finger sandwiches to really make your tea authentic. Venice folks have mixed feelings about tourism. Many businesses need the patronage of thousands of visitors but many others don't appreciate the ill effects of tourism. Fall is a good time to visit, when the crowds are subsiding. UP NEXT:  The allure of Venice.  It's not the same cruising into Venice today, since cruise ships have been banned from the city front and Grand Canal.  But even while the fabled city is being overrun by tourists, and a visitor's tax has been implemented, it is still one of the world's most glorious places. We encourage a visit in fall, while one can find a table to savor the sights and sounds after the crush of tourists subsides. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

Venice charms: sights and sounds to savor abound.  Venice has imposed tourist taxes and banned large ships from its precarious canals -- to the good of this famous, fascinating city. Above and below/right & left, the canals of Venice offer views you won't see anywhere else in the world.  If you enjoy architecture, you'll  love the palazzos along the canals, including Peggy Guggenheim's home, now a lovely museum with her world class collection. SAVOR THE SIGHTS, SOUNDS OF ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST ELEGANT CITIES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER VENICE MAY be sinking inch by inch, but her allure rises each year.   So popular is the classic Italian destination -- with its gondolas,  piazzas and bridges -- that the city started charging an entry fee — a so-called tourist tax. It is aimed at the influx of day-trippers to discourage crowds a bit. We found on a recent return visit, that the crowds are increasing, but so is our fascination with this unique and beautiful city. We happily paid the fee of five euros, which allowed access for the day to Venice and the minor islands of the Venetian Lagoon. Repair is constant with Venetian Gothic architecture typical of Venice. One sees it in dozens of aging buildings,  with influence from Byzantine architecture and Islamic touches, too, all reflecting Venice's trading network.  OUR VENICE  visit was between two Mediterranean cruises, and we wanted a day in a city which holds wonderful memories for each of us. Venice represents the paradox of modern tourism as residents of this lovely city, and many other cities and islands, protest the influx of cruise ships and tour buses. They're tired of the crowds and all the inconvenience and damage that comes with the invasion of thousands of extra people. Yet, local businesses rely on the tourist trade, and we are tourists. Water taxis are the way to see the most of Venice's magnificent architecture. Public transportation is available in the larger vaporetti.  No more so than in Venice, where Napoleon entered in 1797. As he sipped a cognac in San Marco Square, he deemed it "the best drawing room in Europe." We paid a fortune last trip for a gondola ride on the Grand Canal, but who can resist a gondolier singing snippets of Bizet and Puccini? Gondola rides run various prices, but figure at least $75 for 15 or 20 minutes of glorious viewing -- plus an aria!  THE CITY'S public transport is the popular vaporetti -- water rides for the masses. They are much cheaper than private water taxis and move on frequent intervals along the Grand Canal. They also take visitors and locals to Lido, Murano, Burano and more. VENICE IS a wonderful place to enjoy some of the world's great food and drink items.  We dropped by Harry's Bar, made famous by Ernest Hemingway, where the Bellini cocktail was born. We sipped this enticing blend of peach juice and prosecco. For appetizers at a cafe nearby, we ordered carpaccio, also born in Venice. You'll pay more to dine in one of the crowded restaurants of Piazza San Marco, but you won't have a better view of Venetian life. We enjoy the panoply of people visiting the city: lovers holding hands, teens with backpacks, businessmen in beautiful A waiter serves bread and wine as we view the Grand Canal. Waiters in Venice are among the  world's best, true professionals. suits, parents with strollers, shoppers stopping for a coffee with canvas bags of bread, fruit, cheese, meat and wine.  Italians love their bread, and dip it in olive oil -- with or without balsamic vinegar -- and sometimes a pinch of salt. We enjoyed sweet red peppers for a picnic, with a jar of mussels and slab of that subtle, smooth and satisfying Italian cheese, asiago, named after a quaint nearby village.  WE RETURNED TO   Venice's famous Peggy Guggenheim Museum Collection  to admire her  personal collection, which includes her favorite pieces by Picasso, Pollock, Calder and Dali.  We wandered into her sculpture garden, and admired temporary exhibitions. all different than the ones we saw two years ago.   The "art sharp" socialite was the daughter of Benjamin Guggenheim, and inherited a half million dollars after the death of her father aboard the Titanic. She invested it in art. You'll likely arrive by gondola or water taxi to the lovely Peggy Guggenheim Museum with her wondrous, world class collection.    We ended our day at the museum's enchanting sculpture garden with works of Arp, Duchamp-Villon, Fazzini, Giacometti, Holzer, and more. May we return, again and again, for who could grow tired of Venice?  Samuel Johnson said when one tires of London, one tires of life. I'd say the same of glorious Venice.    English influence can be seen throughout the Falklands.   UP NEXT : From the charms of Venice, music in Montana and a train trek through the mountains of Italy and Switzerland, we head south to the famous islands off the tip of Argentina. We take readers to Islas Malvinas, the Falkland Islands, and explore the controversy. northeast of the southern tip of South America, the Falklands are made up of two main islands, East Falkland and West Falkland, plus 200 smaller islands. The influence of England is everywhere, but the islands have been contested and are known in Argentina as "Islas Malvinas." Prime fishing and delightful penguin viewing are among its attractions. We focus on Stanley on East Falkland. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more:   www.whereiscookie.com

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, or "Las Malvinas" to Argentine people, is a peaceful town of less than 3,000 people. It is one of the smallest and most remote capital cities in the world. FISHING, PENGUINS, ENGLISH INFLUENCE CLOSE TO ARGENTINA BUT REMOTE English influence abounds in Port Stanley, including old-fashioned telephone booths. Here, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers take a stroll through the village. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE ALL remember when Queen Elizabeth 2 famously requisitioned her namesake ship, QE2, converting it to a troop ship  during the 1982 conflict in the remote Falkland Islands. Many of us went to our atlas to find exactly where the islands were. So 40 years later, there we were, on the Falkland Islands during a Celebrity cruise. Our day there was full and fun, beginning with several hours at the fascinating penguin preserve on Bluff Cove. There are several lovely rural retreats in the Falklands, offering hill walking and birdwatching. We saw both King and Magellanic penguins,  gentoo penguins, Cobb's wrens, and striated caracaras. We also saw the Upland Goose and Falkland Steamer Duck. A courtyard near the museum features remnants of the Falkland's War and old fishing boats. On the penguin trail in the Falklands Imposing Christ Church Cathedral on Stanley's main street. Our driver was a cheerful, good natured chap,  much like the Englishmen we've met in pubs in the UK.  In fact, that's where he was headed after our day's outing.  He'd picked us up earlier at the ship terminal, dropping us off at the preserve.  When he came to fetch us after our outing, he was looking forward to his pint, like any proper Englishman capping a long day's work. THE LAND  is flat and arid, much like parts of inland Australia, with the same sheep grazing terrain and miles and miles of dry grassland. In Stanley, the English influence is apparent everywhere, including the supermarket. There we found English teas, kippers, chutney, sausages and black pudding. Main street is home to fish and chip shops, and one cafe featured Cornish pastries and sticky toffee pudding. Attractions include a delightful museum, and Government House—built in 1845 and home to the Governor of the Falkland Islands. Naturally, there's a golf course. Keller and Cookie in the Historic Dockyard Museum, a treasure trove of memorabilia and wildlife exhibits. OUR AFTERNOON in  Stanley was a pleasant follow-up to the penguin excursion. We wandered the town of 2,400, and looked at a map to ground ourselves while we had a coffee. We were about 300 miles northeast of the southern tip of South America. Europeans claimed the islands as early as 1645, using them as a stopping off point for rounding the horn. There are two main islands: East Falkland and West Falkland, and 200 smaller islands, spread out over 4,700 square miles.   Most of the 3,758 people live in Stanley, a quiet capital city. We spent a couple hours at the fascinating Historic Dockyard Museum, two floors of treasures. An elderly docent spoke of growing up with three generations in her household. We also toured the impressive Christ Church Cathedral A complex of town homes in Stanley.  The average price of a home is 320,000 British pounds, or about $415,000 American dollars.   and the Whalebone Arch, the 1982 Liberation Memorial, the Lady Elizabeth shipwreck, and some of Stanley’s original houses. We learned of the way of life and heritage in these rugged islands, where fishing, tourism, and agriculture flourish. Fishing is the largest industry, contributing more than half of the islands' annual GDP. The islands also export wool, hides and meat.  Last year, more than $382 million in goods went to Spain, Morocco, the United States, Namibia, and Germany.  Jetty Visitor Centre has this information, along with helpful maps and a cheerful docent to field questions.  WE ASKED  our guide about the Falklands Conflict of 1982, that short undeclared war between Argentina and Britain. It was fought over the sovereignty of the Falkland Islands. We'd heard the Argentine side in Buenos Aires, where people call the islands Islas Malvinas. The conflict lasted 74 days and cost over 900 lives. "We are a self-governing British Overseas Territory, and will remain so," he said, explaining that under the country's 2009 Constitution, the islands have full internal self-government. Meanwhile, the UK is responsible for foreign affairs, retaining the power "to protect UK interests and to ensure the overall good governance of the territory". The courtyards of Port Stanley display artillery from the 1982 conflict. WHAT LED to the conflict? Following World War II, the British Empire declined and many colonies gained their independence. Argentina saw this as an opportunity to push its case for gaining sovereignty over the Falkland Islands, and raised the issue in the United Nations, first stating its claim after joining the UN in 1945. Yet, Falkland Islanders overwhelmingly prefer to remain British while many Argentine people still argue that "Islas Malvinas" is theirs. WE ASKED our Argentine friend why the debate continues: "The answer is simple," he said. "The Falklands -- Islas Malvinas -- belong to Argentina. They just happen to have been seized, occupied, populated and defended by Britain for hundreds of years." As the museum docent told us, "We are British, the only life we've known for generations." To arrange a cruise to the Falklands, we recommend Celebrity Cruises: www.celebritycruises.com Mount Rushmore in its autumn glory. Our next feature. UP NEXT: A visit to Mount Rushmore in its prime autumn splendor. We take readers to this dramatic South Dakota memorial -- at its most beautiful in autumn. It pays homage to the ideals of four beloved U.S. presidents -- Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt. We explore the story behind its creation, with sculptor Gutzon Borglum at the helm. His inspiration for the monumental sculpture was the driving force of its creation as he wooed politicians and presidents to back his dream. More on this fascinating project -- and the nearby Crazy Horse Memorial, which honors Native American people and their tremendous contributions and sacrifice.  On to the Black Hills, remembering to explore, learn and live.  Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, family, the arts and more. 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THIS WEEK'S FEATURE: Whale watch!  PLUS UPDATE as Los Angeles area fires are virtually out! Please find Jan 30 fire news below this story!  Dolphin bonanza: we happened to be on the water when a pod of 5,000 dolphins hit the coast off southern California.  This close-up of one of them shows what spectacular creatures they are. WHALE OF A TALE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS WHERE DOLPHINS ARE THE MAIN EVENT ON DELIGHTFUL  ADVENTURE   Dolphins followed our boats during a delightful series of whale watching adventures near Ventura and Oxnard. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE MIGRATION of the whale is one of nature's most impressive odysseys. Being on the water to watch them is helping us cope with the emotional trauma of the fires so very near us. Every year, we passionately track whales. We've seen them on all seven continents. It's the most diverse critter we know and its presence in our lives -- especially this year --makes a huge difference. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoyed a week of whale watching with Island Packers, highly recommended for lively commentary and lots of sea life. A delightful fringe benefit of whale watching is the sight of beautiful and playful dolphins. Whale watching is really "whale waiting." Yet in dozens of whale watching trips, we've never failed to spot dolphins, often and before whale sightings. This week on the waters near Oxnard and Ventura, California, we saw whales -- beautiful grays and humpbacks. But the dolphin shows were beyond spectacular. Dozens of dolphins followed our Island Packers boat. WE SAW  thousands of dolphins, including an enormous pod which thrilled us as they jumped and frolicked on port and starboard sides of the vessels, darting in front of us and behind us, in the churning waters of the wake as well.  A sight to behold which made international news. TRUTH IS : where there are whales there are usually playful dolphins. They scout out the same food the whales eat and often lead the way for whales to dine, thus making it easier for us to spot them both. It's true that each year,  gray whales undertake one of the longest migrations of any mammal, traveling 12,000 miles round-trip from their feeding grounds in the Arctic to calve and breed in the Baja lagoons, and the warm waters of Hawaii.  But dolphins hang around. OUR YEAR started with success in a fabulous trio of Island Packers outings out of Ventura and Oxnard. The family owned and run operation knows the sea, dolphins, whales and  sailing better than anyone.  Owner Cherryl Connolly's late parents and her brother started two ocean adventures which merged recently to carry on the family tradition. Channel Islands casts whale magic A humpback breeches on the southern California coast. We have the good fortune to live close enough to enjoy sea life expeditions near home each year. We explore both in San Diego and up the coast in Oxnard and Venture, north of Los Angeles. The Feb. 6 column will feature new photos we're taking this weekend off the San Diego coast where 20,000 migrating whales are making their way south, breaking records. in numbers.  THE WHALES'  remarkable trip is equivalent to traveling three times across the United States from San Francisco, California to Washington D.C. Imagine that. But don't overlook the pleasures of the dolphins.  They're a huge draw for us and thousands of others. For while we don't always see an abundance of whales, we see dolphins every time. The Hampton Inn in Oxnard is conveniently located on a lovely marina, with whale watching nearby, ambiance, a tasty breakfast and views. Resident whales, dolphins of Oregon NOW IS prime time for viewing these magnificent creatures: whales and their sidekicks, the dolphins. January through March is when whales migrate along the California coast, traveling mostly southward but also a few coming back north as time progresses. Most whales arrive to Baja’s lagoons during January and February, and by mid-March the majority of the population has reached the lagoons where they mate and calve. We've seen a few "early birds" heading back north in March, so that's always a possibility. Keller's Risso's dolphin photo with a comparison beneath of  Risso to human. Alaska's whales on a cruise DOLPHINS ARE whales, of course, and so it was a thrill on this trip to see several species, including the more rare "tooth whales," including the Risso's dolphin, named after the man who discovered them and closely related to the pilot whale.  They're a larger, lesser known creature than the other two dolphin species we saw this trip, the common dolphin and bottleneck. In fact, the size comparison shows Risso's are more than twice as big as an average person. Most dolphins are about our size or smaller. One day, a pod of more than 500 "commons" followed our wake, playfully jumping and seeming to enjoy our admiration.  Another day, we saw what a news team estimated to be over 4,000.  A thrill. The longed for "fluke" of a migrating humpback caught our eye. ISLAND PACKERS hires terrific naturalists and captains.  One tip for estimating dolphin numbers: Count what you can see and multiply times six or seven. Usually, the number of whales can be more precisely gauged because they have to come up for air and their size makes that visible. Southbound  whales usually travel in pods of two or three so if you see one, you'll likely spot them all.   We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water.  Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he be photographer. The approach to Anacapa is thrilling,  with dolphins in our wake and seals and birds on the beach. Island Packers can arrange a hike or camping on the Channel Islands, or wildlife watching options on their comfy boats..     CHANNEL ISLANDS National Park is also  worthy of a separate visit. We'll write about this wonderful natural environment down the road. From our boats, we saw sea lions, seals and island birds, and if one hikes or camps, the encounters with wildlife are even more bountiful. It's possible to enjoy these beautiful islands in many ways. We saw backpackers and hikers, drawn to these remote islands and back country for spectacular views of the beaches, canyons and inlets. But if your time is limited, you'll still in for a treat to simply stay on the boat.  Options when you have more time include kayaking reservations, and special trips for school groups.   Island Packers does it all. www.islandpackers.com                                                                                 www.reservationdesk.com › Hampton-Inn › Oxnard FIRE CONTAINMENT NEARLY COMPLETE; REBUILDING, CLEANUP BEGIN   Many of the 5,000 firefighters in  Southern California are being relieved of fire duties  as cleanup, rebuilding and recovery begin.                              --Photos courtesy L.A. Times & Mercury News Thursday, Jan. 30, SoCal fires update: Cleanup efforts are underway in the Los Angeles area. There are still fires in Los Angeles County – Eaton, Hughes and Palisades -- but the Border 2 fire near San Diego is virtually extinguished. All of the major fires from Jan. 2025 are expected to reach 100% containment by week's end. Rains have helped greatly but residents in burn areas are warned to beware of mudslides and possible flooding, the downside of needed moisture. The Getty Center above Brentwood is reopened (see below and major feature posting here Thursday.) Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades remains closed.  Rebuilding and restoring buildings, roads and infrastructure will take years and billions of dollars. Estimated loss is estimated at $250 to $275 billion. The worst fire -- Pacific Palisades -- is at 90 per cent containment with continuing sporadic high winds. The Border 2 Fire near San Diego is also at 90 per cent containment but still active in steep rural terrain. Nearly all evacuation orders are lifted.  The fires are fueled by unusually warm The Border 2 fire near San Diego is 97 per cent contained Jan.30. weather, relentless winds, drought and low humidity. A fire near us in La Jolla erupted and was put out just 2 miles from home.  Our daily coverage began the first day Jan. 7. We will check in on the fires from time to time as rebuilding begins. Here's an earlier fire post:      http://www.whereiscookie.com/2025/01/los-angeles-love-story-from-montana.html Coming up: Hollywood actor and special effects artist share personal insights into the tragedy. The beautiful Getty Center was spared during the recent devastating fires. It will reopen Jan. 28 and we will feature the splendid complex.   ON TAP: After closing in the wake of the devastating Los Angeles fires,   the Getty Center reopened Jan. 28. We're there to celebrate this astonishing architectural complex -- with free admission to beautiful gardens and priceless art. Then we're back with new photos of whales on their record-breaking migration as 20,000 grays pass by Sam Diego enroute from the chilly waters of Alaska to warmer waters south of the Baja. Then on to Spain and the museums of Salvador   Dali and Antoni Gaudi. Back in the U.S., we visit New York's Museum of Modern Art, then hike curious caves in Barbados and Bermuda.  Visiting art created by both man and nature is a theme for us, as we hop back and forth across the pond. We return to a favorite city, Barcelona, where we explore a city offering famed art, architecture and a delightful modern tram to the city's top.  Plus a look at a Montana museum devoted to the work of renowned western artist C.M. Russell. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, art, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

Montana's talented Shakespeare in the Schools actors play multiple roles.  Here are two of the cast in a scene from the delightful touring production of "A Midsummer Night's Dream." Left, Samantha Potrykus  plays Hippolyta and Titania, Queen of the Fairies, and Calvin Adams plays both a disgruntled father, and Nick Bottom, who takes on another  role in the play within the play. Quick costume changes are demanded.  SERVING BELOVED  PLAY BY THE BARD  WITH A WESTERN TWIST AS MONTANA TROUPE DELIGHTS SCHOOL KIDS AND CHILDREN OF ALL AGES   Many regional and touring companies across the United States offer theater in rural schools. Here students enjoy Montana's Shakespeare in the Schools, which is touring 50 small towns.                                               STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HOW DOES ONE make Shakespeare palatable to groups of fidgety youngsters? Montana Shakespeare in the Schools has the answer and is sharing it with thousands of kids in small towns across two states.   Make it lively! Have the actors don eye-catching costumes and speak distinctly so kids can understand the lines.  Throw in physical humor and dance steps to keep things moving. Share the spirit of fun.  Avery Johnson, left, plays Lysander, and Francis Flute in the play within the play, to Isa Guitian's Puck, who delights the kids with music & antics.   WE JOINED  a packed house recently at Tippet Rise Art Center recently for a rollicking version of "A Midsummer Night's Dream." The troupe had just played Hysham and Hardin and was enroute to Rapelje and Red Lodge, then a string of Wyoming towns. The beloved Shakespearean classic -- about love, nature and magic  -- is getting a lively "retelling" as Montana Shakespeare in the Schools makes an ambitious two-state tour. The 2024 production by Montana's beloved Shakespeare in the Parks is touring more than 50 schools in Montana and Wyoming with the same high quality production values that mark the company's rigorous summer schedule. Eight actors are charming audiences as they tour.  Eight actors are charming audiences as they tour.  FOR THE 32nd season, eight professional actors from across the U.S., are enacting a lively 85-minute rendition of a classic to more than 12,000 middle and high-school students -- and a few lucky adults.  This year's tour travels from Kalispell to Plentywood, Bozeman to Hardin and Sidney, dipping down into Wyoming to Cody, Powell, Meeteetse, Worland and Buffalo. The intent is to debunk the myth that kids don't "get" Shakespeare. In so doing, the production makes the language and story appealing and understandable, with a western twist and country music.  Actors Abigail Nakken and Avery Johnson in a scene from "A Midsummer Night's Dream." Nakken  spoke later about the importance of making Shakespeare approachable to young students, to awaken their interest in the classics. In a post-show "talk back," actor Abigail Nakken explained, "Our hope is to make Shakespeare come alive for kids -- to make it approachable and fun. Not something that adults tell them that they won't understand because it's over their heads." WITH ACROBATICS , fun props, enchanting costumes, an accordion, guitar, and precise diction, the company did just that at Tippet Rise, in one of the tour's early shows. The long run extends through mid-December with stops in small communities that seldom host performing arts, let alone a professional theater company. The endeavor -- supported by Montana Arts Council, National Endowment for the Arts and other arts backers -- targets smaller communities, where the arts are often short-changed. So students in Lame Deer,  Box Elder, Belt, Ronan, Polson, Ennis, Harrison and Belgrade all among those recipients of an impressive production. High energy, music and colorful costumes mark the production. It's a pleasure to watch kids smile, laugh and applaud lively antics, quick dance steps, acrobatics, sword play and lots of physical humor.  Shakespeare in the Parks delights, too The compact set for "A Midsummer Night's Dream" collapses and folds into the back of a car during the long tour. DOING THE show again and again, day after day, demands energy and commitment. The young, enthusiastic cast delivers that in spades, with imaginative direction from Shakespeare in the Parks veteran actor Kerry Bish é Her career spans stage and screen, from AMC and ABC productions to New York's famed Roundabout Theatre Company. She made her professional debut with Montana Shakespeare in the Parks in 2004 and chose actors from several thousand thespians across the country during January auditions. Most of them had not been west of Chicago or St. Paul, so they're enjoying the immersion and beauty of the landscape.  SO HOW do the actors transport that charming "woodsy" set from school to school? It collapses and folds up, like a giant box of LEGOs! To inquire about the next season of Montana Shakespeare in the Schools:  https://shakespeareintheparks.org/menu/shakespeare-in-the-schools For more on Shakespeare programs around the U.S. www.arts.gov/initiatives/shakespeare-american-communities Ghost, goblins and a famous haunted house await visitors to Puerto Rico's "Pearl of the South," the town of Ponce. UP NEXT:  Ponce, Puerto Rico, is a great place to celebrate Halloween. It's not as well known as San Juan, but it's a lively and historic city, a pleasure to visit any time of the year. There's even a famous haunted house awaiting visitors. The "Pearl of the South" is known for its historical and cultural attractions as Puerto Rico's second-largest city  and as an unincorporated U.S. territory, it celebrates many of the same holidays as the mainland does -- All Hallows Eve included. Join us for a spooky visit, remembering to explore, learn and live. Please share our website with like minded friends: www.whereiscookie.com

A stately mansion in Ponce, Puerto Rico, is said to have ghosts.     Castillo Serrallés (Spanish for Serrallés Castle) was built by a rum baron and is now a museum and events venue. Each October, part of it is transformed as a ghostly gathering entertains visitors. It's apropos, because many haunted places around the world are castles.  Ponce revelers take to the streets on Halloween. SECOND LARGEST CITY WELCOMES VISITORS WITH ITS GENTLE CHARM, ART AND HISTORY PLUS A HAUNTED HOUSE IN ITS FAMOUS CASTLE TO CELEBRATE HALLOWEEN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PUERTO RICANS  enjoy life. And they make the most of holidays -- including Halloween. As an unincorporated U.S. territory, Puerto Rico celebrates most of the same holidays as we in the mainland do -- All Hallows Eve included. Puerto Rico also celebrates the Day of the Dead "Dio de los Muertos" -- a holiday traditionally celebrated Nov. 1 and 2. In Puerto Rico, it is not as "big" an event as in other Latin countries. But both are celebrated -- often combined -- as family and friends gather to remember loved ones who have died. Like most Puerto Rican gatherings, food is served and the graves are usually visited with food and flowers. Ghosts welcome visitors to Ponce's Serralles Castle.    Ponce's architecture frames this reveler on Halloween, 2023 . No place in Puerto Rico can compete with Ponce's famous haunted castle for the "fright prize."  Ponce offers top ghostly enthusiasm in a haunted manor at Serralles Castle.  KNOWN AS  "the house that rum built," the imposing castle is a well preserved reminder of the countries glorious "rum days." Ponce is an attractive, clean city in southern Puerto Rico, quieter and cheaper than San Juan. Every year to celebrate Halloween, the Castle becomes a scary, haunted mansion. The holiday "redo" fits its design perfectly. Built in Spanish Colonial Revival-style building, it was technically advanced for the 1930s. It is a lovely, antique filled place, including a Japanese garden and butterfly nursery. What a treat to visit the castle and town. We took a couple days side trip to Ponce, renting a car in San Juan for the 90-minute drive south through the center of the country. We booked two tours: one of the castle and one of the city, enjoying two perspectives on explorers, the rum industry, and the city's architecture, art and history.   Ponce encourages murals and street art, to entertain tourists . WE ENJOYED the two tours  -- first   the Castle, then a lively guided walking tour of city center. Ponce's recorded history dates to 1692 when the famous Juan Ponce de León sailed into the island. As Puerto Rico's second-largest city, Ponce is often overlooked by tourists.  But it's an easy trip from San Juan for a pleasant day or two, with a more apparent "village" feel than  its larger, bustling  resort oriented sister.  CASTILLO   Serrallés  -- Serralles Castle -- is imposing both by its grandeur and because it overlooks Ponce's downtown.  It was built during the 1930s for Juan Eugenio Serrallés, son of businessman  Juan Serralles, who founded Destileria Serralles. It structure sits on a 2.5-acre beautifully manicured property. We saw a wedding rehearsal the day we visited. That's a huge part of the building's appeal, our guide said, as she focused on the building's past, the rum industry and the impact it had on Puerto Rico's economy. Ponce is a favorite destination for weddings, and encourages romance on its Paseo Amor, street of love. Ponce's parks and squares are well manicured and inviting. DESTINATION weddings are a big draw to the mansion, our guide explained, and many sun seekers take a break from busier San Juan to enjoy the more relaxed ambiance of Ponce. PONCE's OLD town is a colorful place, with plazas, churches, and colonial homes. Public art is encouraged and subsidized and Ponce has several large public art installations. Ponce's city market   THE CITY's Plaza del Mercado at Ponce --  Bespoke Lifestyle Management Management offers lively tours, here with Melina Aguilar. our talented Ponce guide. known by older residents as Plaza del Mercado Isabel II -- is a huge indoor street market in the heart of town. Many of its shops and vendors have been there for decades. Locals know it has the freshest vegetables and fruits for a fair price. Traditional foods, candy, art and lottery tickets are offered in more than a dozen stands. The goods come from local farms, confectioners, and artists. Nearby Mercado de las Carnes was the first building in   Ponce's Plaza del Mercado offers bargain prices on locally grown fruits and vegetables in more than two dozen shops inside a renovated building.  Puerto Rico to mix social and architectural elements in its pedestrian mall.  The historic art deco  structure dates to 1926. Bruce Keller enjoys a Ponce Ice cream.  Another enticement: charming hotels are half the price of similar inns in San Juan. Expedia, airbnb and many other options offer everything from lavish estates to simple apartments. More information: discoverpuertorico.com bespokeconcierge.com Enjoying a reunion and a tuk-tuk ride with friend Tomas Neves are Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller. UP NEXT:  We explore Lisbon's marvels on a tuk-tuk.  Four of us adventuresome sojourners climbed into a tuk-tuk to traverse this historic Portuguese city and enjoy its famous landmarks -- from cathedrals to street markets. A tuk-tuk ride in Lisbon is a must, for getting close-up views and learning a lot in a few hours. Our guide has become a friend through several trips. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more:  and please share the link with traveling friends:   www.whereiscookie.com

Old San Juan's colorful Boricua is a pleasant place to stop for lunch, stroll the shops, enjoy the beach. BEACHES, CASINOS, DINING, MUSEUMS, LANDMARKS, UPSCALE RESIDENTIAL AREAS, MUSEUMS, STREET FOOD, MUSIC: ALL IN A DAY IN LIVELY SAN JUAN Stately homes and gentrified offices can be found in parts of San Juan, which also has modern areas and many resorts. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SAN JUAN  is a vibrant mix of stately buildings, towering trees, lively cafes, posh nightclubs, glitzy resorts, simple street food carts, plazas to people watch, museums, beach life and more. It's an enticing blend. A major port and tourist destination on Puerto Rico's northern coast, it is separated from the rest of the island by picturesque San Juan Bay and Condado Lagoon.   Old San Juan offers a mix of stately architecture, welcoming plazas with benches and shade trees, and sculpture parks. The city was founded in 1508 by that globe trotting Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León and is the oldest city under U.S. jurisdiction. YOU'LL NEED a few days to get into the grove.  We suggest starting with a stroll or drive in El Viejo San Juan --  historic Old San Juan, which has several names, and is properly known as San Juan Antiguo. It is home to the San Juan National Historic Site, with buildings dating from the 16th century. You'll want to visit a pair of the Caribbean's most famous fortresses, the San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal. We enjoyed a climb on the old city walls for gorgeous views. You'll see street art throughout the city. If you like old stately churches, the Bautista Cathedral should be on your list of "must sees."  It houses the tomb of Ponce de Leon in a neighborhood of brightly colored houses which line inviting cobbled streets. We stopped in a shady plaza for a cocktail in a small, colorful bar.  After a rest in our hotel, we returned to Old San Juan to sample a couple of the city's renowned Caribbean fusion restaurants. IN OLD TOWN,  as the sun slides into the horizon,  you'll join older residents out for a stroll and young businessmen and women, relaxing after a day at the office.  The Bacardi Rum Plant offers tours, tastings and more at an impressive complex.  San Juan is an intriguing blend of Caribbean island charm and city hustle, a fine place to experience Puerto Rican culture if you have time for only a day's visit. The people are friendly, helpful and welcoming to the tourist. We've visited several times and enjoy exploring the vibrant and distinctive neighborhoods-- from the old Spanish colonial buildings to state of the art restaurants and the same major shopping outlets one finds in Paris, New York or Milan. WE OPTED one day for a self-guided history lesson with a return visit to El Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a 16th-century citadel that’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We stopped at the Bacardi Rum  The Caribe Hilton is a glitzy modern resort. plant for a quick tour then headed for a cooling dip at Carolina Beach and Luquillo, which attract well heeled, deeply tanned Americans and Europeans. We had arranged to meet friends for a late dinner or we would have considered an after-dark kayak adventure through Bioluminescent Bay. Next time. Locals perform in holiday garb at the Bacardi Arts Festival  coming soon to Old San Juan.  SAN JUAN celebrates Christmas  beginning in early December.  Holiday programs are specially designed for children, and presented at the Dominica Convent, La Fortaleza and City Hall.  The Puerto Rico Symphony and National Folkloric Ballet of Puerto Rico give special performances and the San Juan Ballet Company performs Tchaikovsky's "Nutcracker Suite."  Sports fans have plenty to watch, with Canadian teams playing with local teams throughout the island in the Puerto Rico Winter League. Boating enthusiasts enjoy the Puerto Rico International Offshore Cup in mid-December, and there are speedboat races with some of the best offshore teams competing. San Juan is a major port and tourist destination, known for its culture, nightlife, lively Old Town and beaches.  FOR HOLIDAY  shoppers, the Bacardi Arts Festival is held each year  the first two Sundays of December. It features more than 100 booths, crafts, rides, typical food and of course drinks of rum.  The festival happens at Bacardi's rum manufacturing plant, the world's largest. One doesn't have to go far to see Bacardi's influence.  The logos and bottles are everywhere.  Casa Bacardi offers tours and classes where you craft your own cocktails.   OLD SAN JUAN lights up right after Thanksgiving, becoming a "White Christmas" with lights, decorations, holiday music and at booths in the windows and plazas. Tourists enjoy life-size nativity creches beginning on Thanksgiving weekend with the  The influence of Bacardi is seen throughout the island, here at a  fast food stand with hot sauce for roasted chicken on a paper plate and hot sauce in the rum bottle.     lighting of a giant Christmas tree in Paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan. For more information on hotels, tours and what's happening through the holidays:  www.sanjuanpuertorico.com/visitors-information-tourism-offices/ bacardi.com for information on tours and tastings From American favorites such as this rare steak and fresh veggies, to exotic international fare, we sample Thanksgiving on the road in next week's column.  Please tune in.  UP NEXT:   Thanksgiving is right around the corner, Nov. 28.  We've spent many Thanksgivings at various cities, villages and islands on the road, looking for fun and memorable ways to give thanks for a life of travel. We take readers to the Canary Islands, to Greece, Hong Kong and Barcelona for a look at specialty foods and taste treats for every budget.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly at:   www.whereiscookie.com

The El Yunque Rain Forest is one of the smallest, yet with a most diverse "repertoire" to behold. "I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived." Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at El Yunque Visitor Center. --Henry David Thoreau WHERE NATURE IS REVERED: El YUNQUE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER FORESTS HAVE for centuries have captivated writers and poets.  The beauty,  enchantment, tranquility, and ecological richness of forests is a soothing balm for the traveler and local alike. The unique coqui frog does not have webbed feet, like most frogs. The males have an enchanting song they sing all day. Puerto Rico's famous El Yunque Rain Forest weaves lush foliage, unusual wildlife and a beautiful modern visitor's center  to create a symphony of nature. We admired waterfalls, beautiful flowers and century-old trees, with background music of a unique frog, taking a page from Thoreau's book, if only for a day. It was, in a word, captivating. The showy heliconia, or lobster flower, has a place of honor in the rain forest and in the garden of El Yunque's visitor center. We had a wonderful day in this magical place. Various snails make their home in the rain forest. Guides take guests around for close-up views . THE 29,000 acre rain forest is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. Although it is one of the smallest national forests, it is also one of the most biologically diverse with a charming and unique frog, the coqui. The small tree frog is Puerto Rico's national animal and has a  charming if persistent  song.  Choruses of male coquis can be heard from dusk until dawn all over the island. The  coqui (pronounced ko-kee) is a small arboreal frog that can be brown, yellow, or green. Its scientific genus name --  try pronouncing eleutherodactylus -- means “free toes” because, unlike many frogs, the coqui doesn't have webbed feet.  THE PARK's diverse ecosystem also boasts hundreds of unique plant species. These are described at the impressive El Portal de El Yunque, the main visitor and information center in the forest. After the feeling of ancient wonders as we drove through the forest, a striking modern building comes into view to welcome visitors. Bruce Keller admiring the fan ferns in the rain forest. Our guide was proud of the trees whose roots spread out hundreds of feet in the forest. It features an elevated walkway through the tree tops, educational displays, a short wheelchair-friendly interpretive walking trail through the lower forest, a counter-service restaurant with tasty Puerto Rican sandwiches, some beautiful “selfie spots,” and a small gift shop.  We recommend a stop at this modern, interesting visitor center which besides its beauty and eye-catching architecture, gives an informative grounding for first-time visitors to El Yunque. YOU'LL LEARN that the island's national flower is thespesia grandiflora, a hibiscus like beauty known as maga, also referred to as Maga Colorada ("Red Maga") and Puerto Rican hibiscus. It is a tree in the family Malvaceae of the rosids clade endemic to Puerto Rico, where its flower is celebrated as the national flower of the archipelago. You'll also see gorgeous orchids, ginger plants, plumeria, anthurium, birds of paradise, and the showy heliconia,  also known as lobster flower. THE PEOPLE  of Puerto Rico have long  had a deep-rooted connection with its native flora.   From the indigenous Taíno people to the country's modern-day inhabitants, native plants have played a significant role in shaping Puerto Rican culture, traditions, and even spirituality. The unique relationship Puerto Ricans have with their native plants goes beyond aesthetics or ecological conservation. A reverence for plants and growing things is an integral aspect of their identity. Medicinal plants and botanical remedies can be widely found in herbal displays and health stores. I replenished a few of my favorites. A climb up Yokahu Tower is a fine way to view the rain forest from above.  WHILE YOU  are so near a spectacular place, don't miss the opportunity to stop at Yokahu Tower, and climb to the top. It is right off the road, with a large parking lot.  The view is worth the climb. There are 96 steps to get to the top, but don't be intimidated. The steps are wide and you can go at your own pace to reach a marvelous view of the woods below. We stopped several times to gaze out the windows and let others pass us. The 69-foor concrete tower leads to an observation deck where you can literally see the forest for the trees. We had a remarkably clear day so we could even see the ocean beyond the tree-top canopy. Cookie strolls one of the charming walking paths at the El Yunque Visitor Center, a lovely new space. Constructed in 1963, the tower was built by forest supervisor and director of IITF, Frank H. Wadsworth. The tower is one of the two observation towers located in the park and sits at an elevation of 1,575 feet (480 m). The other tower in the El Yunque is the Mount Britton Tower, which friends say is equally engaging. We've vowed to see it on our next visit. Many tour companies offer everything from food to nature excursions. We had good luck with Bespoke, which we booked when we reserved our week with Hilton. We used Bespoke for several tours. They have a relationship with Hilton, are pleasant and accommodating to work with in the booking process, and they picked us up at the hotel. More information:       https://bespokeconcierge.com/   www.viator.com   www.fs.usda.gov/elyunque www.discoverpuertorico.com www.puertorico.com San Juan offers a blend of old and new, relaxation and high energy activity and touring, beaches, Old Town and a lovely bay. UP NEXT: From rain forest wonders, to seductive San Juan as we cap our Puerto Rico series. Fortresses, parks, sculpture, night life, street food, glitzy casinos, elegant resorts and a lively old town mix with live music and sunshine for an intoxicating time. Old San Juan offers history and beautiful architecture. The beaches are among the best in the Caribbean and there's a historic site in the fortresses. We also recommend a cruise along San Juan Bay. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly.

Cesar Manrique's imagination and love of nature fueled his passionate devotion to his native Lanzarote.  Here, one of his gardens incorporates relaxation with appreciation of native plants . Nature and art were one for him.  ONE MAN'S VISION AND IMAGINATION MARKS CANARY ISLAND OF LANZAROTE Jameos del Agua is a natural space inside a volcanic tunnel transformed by Manrique into a world renowned concert space . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CESAR MANRIQUE  was born in 1919 in the town of Arrecife on the island of Lanzarote in the Canaries. Few people outside of the islands knew of these volcanic places off theJameos  coast of Spain, but that would change with Manrique.   Architectural genius changes an island Cesar Manrique is immortalized in sculpture . Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the home of artistic genius Manrique. An artist from childhood, when he sketched nature images, he left as a young man to study in Madrid, returning many times, his head buzzing with ideas. By 1966, he'd settled back in his homeland for good. What he created changed the island and put it on the world map. FOR 25 FRUITFUL years, he transformed Lanzarote to an imaginative place, where nature and architecture blend. It's a playground for imagination. Perhaps no single man has had a greater influence on a place. Only Gaudi comes to mind, in his contributions to Barcelona. For working with Lanzarote's volcanic landscapes, Manrique insisted there be no tall buildings. He imagined that vineyards could flourish in craters, and they do. His homeland's strange beauty captured Manrique's imagination and encouraged his dialogue between nature and art. This extraordinary artist was the main creator of most of the art, culture and tourism centers that now exist on Lanzarote, making it the Canary Island's showpiece. Cesar Manrique ever at work. MANRIQUE'S VISIONARY designs integrate elements of nature with comfort and style. They welcome the eye, asking the viewer to step in and enjoy. One can tell the artist enjoyed life and its pleasures, and that he was ever aware of nature, which he revered during his life, 1919 to 1992. O ne of Manrique's many creations. Manrique loved color and cactus, as this display at his home, now a museum, illustrates.  .     In Europe, he exhibited his work in Spain and France, where it was greeted with raves from both press and the public. He  traveled to exhibitions in Japan and after the death from cancer of his beloved partner Pepi Gomez, he moved to New York for a change of environment. There he was befriended Jackson Pollock, Andy Warhol and other famous 20th Century artists. But he was critical of the environment of New York, which he considered "inhumane."    Painter, sculptor, architect Cesar Manrique transformed the Canary  Islands' most interesting island, Lanzarote. Future blog pieces celebrate the holidays as we showcase other creators.  THE ARTIST'S    childhood friend  Pepin Ramirez was president of the island  and helped Manrique realize this idea to reflect the unique landscape and color palette of Lanzarote in the art and architecture on the island. Beside continuing his personal art career, Manrique gained attention with his commitment to protect Lanzarote from what he regarded as pernicious tourist development. Manrique was not against tourism but thought high quality  tourism could transform the island and become its economic engine. This has come to pass.   www.fcmanrique.org/en/inicio/ www.hellocanaryislands.com www.turismolanzarote.com/en/ COMING SOON: As we enter the holidays full tilt, we visit places that celebrate with specific cultural touches. From Hawaii to Madrid, French Polynesia to Brazil, Singapore to Sydney, we toast the holidays with art, music, food,  architecture and originality. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com