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The Bay of Gibraltar is home to fancy yachts, pleasure and fishing boats and a variety of sea life, along with the famed monkeys. This visit was to track dolphins, and we weren't disappointed.   BAY OF GIBRALTAR OFFERS GARDENS, WILDLIFE, CABLE CAR, FRIENDLY FOLK  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Dolphins frolic in the waters of Gibraltar, where they are a main attraction for tourists and beloved by locals. GIBRALTAR is famous for many things from its photogenic  primates to its enduring rock. Its most notable attribute is its strategic position at the mouth of the Mediterranean, at the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula on the Bay of Gibraltar. Because it is so near the Mediterranean's exit into the Atlantic, its enviable location has made it a contested body of water over centuries and the site of many sea skirmishes. The bloody 1607 Battle of Gibraltar between the Dutch and Spanish is the most notorious.   The Dutch surprised a Spanish fleet during The Eighty Years War, destroying many ships. GIBRALTAR is also celebrated as one of the few places in the world offering a view of two continents and three countries. On a lucky, clear day, from certain vantage points, it is possible to see both Africa and Europe. You'll also have a chance to see Gibraltar, Spain and Morocco, if you're really fortunate. Realizing how close the continents are -- divided only by the narrow Strait of Gibraltar -- one understands the bay's importance as a maritime link between the two continents. And wildlife abounds here. Cavorting with the dolphins, from left: Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Jane Milder. WE'D SEEN the monkeys twice, but we did not realize until this most recent visit that some of the Mediterranean's best sea life viewing is also here. Three species of playful dolphin are vying with Gibraltar's endearing monkeys for headlines: the common dolphin, bottle-nose dolphin and striped dolphin. These amazing and playful, "tourist friendly" creatures visit the Bay and Strait of Gibraltar for food, shelter and to breed. You can see both dolphins and monkeys in certain tours and the monkeys are worth a look, too, if you've not seen them before. Hang on to your hat -- they're clever thieves. They're Europe's only wild monkey population, originating from the Atlas and Rif mountains of Morocco and brought by early settlers. THIS VISIT highlighted dolphins, which our homework showed could be seen near our ship, Norwegian Cruise Line's stunning Viva. We were met at the dock by a friendly driver who shared dining tips during a pleasant ten-minute drive to our dolphin watching boat. There we joined a small, convivial group of fellow dolphin fans. We were delighted to find dolphins within five minutes from the dock -- the easiest and closest viewing we've seen in many dolphin outings on several continents. Gibraltar's monkeys are long famous, but dolphin tours are on the rise.  A CABLE CAR ride to the Top of the Rock and Nature Reserve is another highlight. The viewpoint was not open on our visit four years ago and is a recent addition to other attractions as Gibraltar amps up its tourism push.   Gibraltar's cable car offers stunning views of the bay, and on clear days of two continents and three countries . The laminated glass floor and balustrade are  an impressive 1,115 feet above sea level, built on the foundations of a  World War II base structure. A plaque informs that it is a faithful reproduction of the original base used for an anti-aircraft gun during World War II.  Gibraltar's architecture reflects its Moorish influence but it has long been a British Overseas Territory with 34,000 proud Gibraltarians. Its area is a scant 6.8 kilometers, bordered to the north by Spain from which myriad daytrips are possible. MAIN ATTRACTIONS  are all fairly close in Gibraltar.  The cable car station for Gibraltar's Swiss designed aerial tramway is near the southern end of Main Street, next to the gorgeous Gibraltar Botanic Gardens, known as the Alameda.  This wonderful place offers plants from all over the world, a calming respite after the cable car with its white knuckle, 360 degree panoramic view across three countries and both continents.  Gibraltar's Botanic Gardens, known as The Alameda, are meticulous. The viewpoint was opened in 2018 by actor Mark Hamill, known as Luke Skywalker of "Star Wars" fame. A tasteful plaque commemorates the dedication. Although spectacular on a clear day, it can be unnerving to climb those metal steps to the viewing platform, then walk on glass to the view. I confess to a tinge of vertigo -- the same I felt in Madeira, at the top of its spectacular Skywalk. But it's worth the nerves.  We felt welcome here, too, as Gibraltar has yet to join the ranks of tourism protesters More information: www.visitgibraltar.gi/   www.ncl.com/Norwegian/Viva www.naturereserve.gi/experiences/cable-car/ www.visitacity.com/gibraltar/tours     Native son Cesar Manrique had his hand in transforming the island of his birth, Lanzarote. Here his home and studio is now an intriguing museum in the Canary Islands. UP NEXT : Cesar Manrique was a gifted artist --  painter, sculptor and architect.  He is beloved and famous for changing the face of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. The artist studied in Madrid and after several years exhibiting  around the world, he moved to New York, the mecca of art in the 1960s, then back to his native Recife on the island he loved and made more beautiful. We look at his fascinating architecture, remembering to explore, learn and live: www.whereiscookie.com

One of two America's Cup racing sloops photographed by Bruce Keller. While sailing on the famed Stars and Stripes, he took this photo.      THRILLS, CHILLS ON  CLASSIC BOAT AS GOAL IS REACHED  -- SAILOR CAPTURES DREAM, GLORY    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN SAN Diego was proud defender of the America's Cup and Dennis Connor became an international hero, a young Bruce Keller had dreams to sail the famous boat. That famous race was in 1987, when Connor and his San Diego crew recaptured the world's most prestigious sailing trophy for the U.S. Aboard Stars and Stripes, Keller took a break from sailing the vessel to photograph the boat heeled over as we sailed into the wind.      It has been Keller's dream to sail one of these classic yachts. "I was in love with the ocean as a kid. I loved Sea Scouts and followed all the big races.  Plus Dennis Connor is a San Diego native like myself." The race was important and well publicized because Connor was not only a gifted sailor but was famous for his charismatic ways in dealing with challenges on the water. The race took place in February when Keller, a building contractor and designer, was working on a renovation project in a client's house. His building crew tuned into the race on the TV,  cheering Connor and his crew on through a series of eliminations, excited as they advanced toward the final series of races.  Stars and Stripes is living out her life in St. Maarten, where she thrills passengers each day. SO WHEN Keller saw an ad for a sailing adventure in St. Maarten, he was thrilled. He booked an outing for two aboard Stars and Stripes, one of two authentic America's Cup race boats on the island.  The ad promised we'd have "the most unique and immersive experience in the Caribbean, guaranteed to leave you breathless, exhilarated and feeling like a sailing pro!" I ADMIT my knowledge of sailing is minimal. My fear of drowning is enormous.  So why would I do this, when I'm afraid to get my head wet in a swimming pool? Sheets in sailing lingo, are used to adjust the sails. I had a smaller orange rope to cling to . Because I was honoring a promise of almost 18 years ago. Keller agreed to take tango lessons and ballroom dancing classes if I'd learn to sail and join him on his waterborne adventures. So it was only fair. And there we were on a cruise ship, docked in Philipsburg, the main town and capital of St. Maarten, on the Dutch side of this lovely island in the Caribbean. It was meant to be, Keller said. AS WE journeyed out on the waters, the crew sensed my apprehension. They gave me an orange rope to grasp, and I used it -- boy did I use it! We'd signed the usual waivers absolving the outfit of responsibility should anything unfortunate occur. But I had no idea I'd be clinging for dear life to my "sissy rope" as Keller called it.  It comforted me beyond measure as the boat tilted and jerked into the waves, first one side, then the other. But while I was terrified, Keller was in his element -- beaming, laughing, enjoying the sea spray on his face.  My jaw was clenched as I licked my lips and bit my tongue, tasting salt water, promising the gods I'd be a better person if I survived.  Stars and Stripes is living out her life in St. Maarten, where she thrills passengers each day. SO WHEN Keller saw an ad for a sailing adventure in St. Maarten, he was thrilled. He booked an outing for two aboard Stars and Stripes, one of two authentic America's Cup race boats on the island.  The ad promised we'd have "the most unique and immersive experience in the Caribbean, guaranteed to leave you breathless, exhilarated and feeling like a sailing pro!"  I ADMIT  my knowledge of sailing is minimal. My fear of drowning is enormous.  So why would I do this, when I'm afraid to get my head wet in a swimming pool? Sheets in sailing lingo, are used to adjust the sails. I had a smaller orange rope to cling to . Because I was honoring a promise of almost 18 years ago. Keller agreed to take tango lessons and ballroom dancing classes if I'd learn to sail and join him on his waterborne adventures. So it was only fair. And there we were on a cruise ship, docked in Philipsburg, the main town and capital of St. Maarten, on the Dutch side of this lovely island in the Caribbean. It was meant to be, Keller said. AS WE  journeyed out on the waters, the crew sensed my apprehension. They gave me an orange rope to grasp, and I used it -- boy did I use it! We'd signed the usual waivers absolving the outfit of responsibility should anything unfortunate occur. But I had no idea I'd be clinging for dear life to my "sissy rope" as Keller called it.  It comforted me beyond measure as the boat tilted and jerked into the waves, first one side, then the other. But while I was terrified, Keller was in his element -- beaming, laughing, enjoying the sea spray on his face.  My jaw was clenched as I licked my lips and bit my tongue, tasting salt water, promising the gods I'd be a better person if I survived.  Keller is sorry for the sailing janut to end. Cookie is relieved to have survived the two-hour outing .  THE LEGENDARY 12-meter class race boats are the thoroughbreds of the racing world. The two yachts in St. Maarten are both America’s Cup participants and represent, Keller says, "the culmination of multi-million dollar efforts and years of testing to achieve maximum speed and agility."We were sailing at only seven miles an hour, Keller said, nothing compared to the 50 mph the latest AC70 racing vessels can reach. "In our same breeze, an America's Cup boat could reach 50 miles per hour," Keller said, winking. "We were taking it relatively easy." We were "across the waves" from Zhaveri, one of two racing boats giving tours in St. Maarten.   Easy for him to say.  I was white knuckled for the entire two-hour adventure.  My Dennis Connor aficionado was happy as a clam.  He reflected that we were lucky to the experience, because the sailing competition has changed.  Publicity surrounding Connor's exploits with America's Cup created international interest and chaperoned in the end of an era when millionaires raced.  "But now it's only billionaires competing in the current era of high-tech boats,"  Keller observed. He laments that the sport has become a hobby of a tiny percentage of sailors, catering only to the extremely rich. AS FOR ME , well, I am happy to have survived the adventure, and am not certain I'll do it again. But wait, could that mean that Keller would no longer join me on the dance floor? In that case, I'll review the situation, put on my big girl sailing pants and dare to join him for another ride into the unknown. "It's good for you to stretch yourself," he says. Meanwhile, I'm booking us another round of rhumba lessons. www.12metre.com   www.visitstmaarten.com The iconic Hollywood sign photographed from Griffith Observatory, where we visited Monday just before the fires. UP NEXT:  As wildfires destroy homes, landscape and some famous landmarks, we take readers to Los Angeles where we are frequent visitors. We have "before and after" photos of places we love, some of which were just burned.  We consider ourselves lucky to have escaped, returning to San Diego undamaged. This column occasionally departs from travel and art features to follow breaking news. So as the wild fires rage, and thousands of homes are destroyed, we present an overview. Many places are closed, including the Getty museums we just toured and activities at the famous Santa Monica Pier closed Thursday. One of our favorite wine bars and restaurants burned, a famous high school has fire damage and we'll feature other sad results of the fires which have caused an estimated $57 billion in loss so far. Take time today to reflect on this beloved and famous place in our country and culture and send good thoughts while remembering to explore, learn and live..

The Getty Center Museum is large -- like its benefactor's appetite for art and beauty. The multi-building complex is the legacy of industrialist and philanthropist J. Paul Getty, a $1.3 billion endeavor which opened to the public with great fanfare in 1997. It is well known for its architecture, gardens, its free admission, tram to the complex and splendid views overlooking Los Angeles. It's gardens welcome many bird species. GETTY CENTER REOPENS; FIRE RESISTANT ARCHITECTURE  MARKS GETTY BUILDINGS    FIRE UPDATES WILL APPEAR AS REBUILDING BEGINS, PLANS UNFOLD BEAUTIFUL GETTY VILLA REMAINS CLOSED INDEFINITELY  AS A RESULT OF THE FIRES; WE'LL FEATURE IT WHEN IT REOPENS Editor's Note: We took the photos accompanying this story Jan. 6, the day before devastating fires closed both Getty museums.  We are relieved that the fires are at bay and the fire-resistant Getty Center Museum is reopened.  The Getty Villa, although saved, is closed indefinitely. Staffers stayed overnight early in the fire to protect it and while Villa grounds experienced damage, the buildings and priceless collections are safe thanks to steel and metal architecture, grounds irrigation and careful prior clearing of brush near the building's parameter.  We nod to the splendid Villa Museum in this article, and will present a full feature when it reopens in months, even a year.  Pacific Palisades must rebuild it roads, infrastructure and museum access, all damaged in the fires.  Both museums are free with only a parking charge.   A subtle, elegant effect from a display of prisms caught Cookie's eye. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OIL TYCOON  J. Paul Getty was a man of immense appetites, achievements and artistic acumen. He was also a man of vision, who would surely approve of the Getty Center's architecture, "a marvel of anti-fire engineering," as one critic called it. Both indoors and outdoors, its materials, design, construction, operations, and controls are purpose-built for safety.  Getty made his fortune with savvy investments in the oil trade. This enabled him to collect paintings and sculpture in both the U.S. and the Mediterranean, where he kept a villa in Italy for many years. Minnesota born, he enjoyed the warmer climate and landscape of southern California, noticing its similarities to the Mediterranean area he loved.  He was drawn to the lost civilizations of Herculaneum and Pompeii.  One villa, mostly buried by the volcanic eruption of Vesuvius, caught the collector's eye and would eventually lead to his legacy, two world class facilities: Getty Center Museum and Getty Villa Museum. A docent leads a group of tourists in one of the museum wings, explaining specific pieces, here a classical sculpture . THE CENTER Museum is much larger than the Villa. It is in Brentwood, about 11 miles or a half hour's drive from the Pacific Palisades Villa. The Center reopened Jan. 28 after the fires closed it for nearly three weeks. It houses a stunning collection of art from the Middle Ages, Renaissance and modern times. But the architecture and gardens of the buildings are the real stars of this complex, set amid gorgeous gardens with impressive city views. Museum staff thought of everything to enhance a visit: cafes, shady walkways, gorgeous gardens. Interesting gallery tours, changing exhibits and tasteful gift shops await. On warm days, one can borrow a parasol to keep the sun's glare away.  The museum is user friendly. Amazingly, it is free with only a parking charge. The gardens at Getty Center Museum are elegant and not to be missed.  This is one of several, the Central Garden . LONGTIME residents of the area know the history of the pair of Getty museums began with the opening of the J. Paul Getty Museum in 1954 while Getty was still alive and able to supervise. He originally designed a small museum adjacent to his Pacific Palisades home.  When it quickly outgrew his growing collection, he decided to replicate the villa, creating a larger, permanent home for his treasures.  He died in England in 1976 and the terms of his trust laid out plans for the Getty Center Museum, built to house the massive larger collection of mixed media masterpieces.  Architects from around the world vied for the architectural post and in 1984, following an eighteen-month selection process, architect Richard Meier was chosen to design the Center which opened with fanfare in 1997.  (I was among invited press.) GETTY ACQUIRED Bruce Keller enjoys a moment of solitude, reflecting on the beauty of sculpture, landscape at Getty Center Museum above Brentwood . a massive amount of sculpture, pottery, paintings and photographs, using his sharp eye and deep pockets to guide him. The Center and Villa accomplish his wish that his collection would live on and touch and enrich others' lives.He wanted visitors to experience Greek and Roman art in a setting that would bring the objects to life. The Villa does that.  He also wanted his massive additional collection to stay intact, and be complemented in beautiful sculpture gardens, with landscaping incorporating both plants and water. The Center does that admirably, with drought resistant plants which have a better chance of surviving fire such as the recent one. THE WORLD'S  best architects adapted plans for both the Villa and the Center.  No expense was spared in the Getty Villa, a recreation of an ancient Roman estate in Pompeii.  For the Villa ,   his team borrowed from other nearby villas since the one he admired was mostly destroyed by Vesuvius. Getty's team  designed a gorgeous complex that satisfied Getty's idea of "re-creation." Attention to detail was paramount to the collector. He insisted on accuracy in incorporating details from other ancient homes. A billionaire and once the richest man in the world, he spared no expense. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller by an exhibit of Van Gogh's famous "Irises. " Sculpture is an appealing part of Getty Center. WHAT EMERGED is two very different, equally charming spaces. Like the Center, only much smaller, the Villa incorporates charming gardens, fountains, peaceful places for contemplation with plants from the Mediterranean -- fruit trees, flowering shrubs, herbs used by the Romans for cooking and medicine.   Both facilities house beautifully designed gallery spaces showcasing Getty's stunning collections. The pair take the viewer from Egyptian, Greek and Roman statues to European paintings, drawings, sculpture, illuminated manuscripts, decorative arts, and photography from its beginnings to the present. We toured the two back-to-back in a long, delightful day.  Sadly, this pairing is not possible until the Villa reopens.  May that happen soon as Pacific Palisades "reinvents" itself and rebuilds. Meanwhile, consider a visit to the Center.  And keep Pacific Palisades, its people and its treasures in your hearts. More information:  Admission to Getty Center Museum is free but timed-entry reservations are necessary and you'll pay for parking. getty.edu/visit/center ;  visitorservices@getty.edu To follow Getty Villa's reopening plans:  getty.edu/visit/villa We're back on the whale trail, with a look at magnificent gray whales passing by San Diego in record numbers of over 20,000. Seeing a fluke is one of our happiest moments at sea. ON TAP:  It's a wonderful feeling to see a whale fluke as he dives down for food, or  "blows" as he comes up for air, expelling it through his blow hole.  Did you know that's the genesis of the term "Thar she blows"? from whaling days. Now we happily celebrate the return of the whale after near extinction.  We are thankful to photograph these beautiful, once endangered creatures and are thrilled to be back watching whales with favorite San Diego venues, San Diego's City Cruises under the Hornblower umbrella and San Diego Whale Watch.  Tourists from all over the world visit San Diego for the whales. So that's next week's feature.  Then more water adventures in Fort Lauderdale, a UK train odyssey, tips on bathroom protocol when abroad -- and, importantly, how to find one! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, performance, nature and more:  www.whereiscookie.com   To book a whale watching cruise in San Diego: https://www.cityexperiences.com/san-diego/city-cruises/san-diego-whale-dolphin-watch-adventure/

Seeing a whale's fluke, as we've done off the coast of San Diego, is a thrill to remember. EPIC WHALE WATCHING SEASON CONTINUES IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller about to board City Cruises' Hornblower Adventure for a thrilling whale watching time. ONCE YOU'VE thrilled to the sight of a whale's fluke, or heard the whoosh of air from his blow hole, you're hooked. Seeing a mom and calf, even better! You wait, you watch -- for a breach, a family, a fluke, the dive back into the ocean. Wow.  What a thrill. It brings tears, cheers and applause. Welcome to the club. You're now a proud lifelong whale watcher. If you've always wanted to see whales, you have a fine opportunity now as 20,000 gray whales and hundreds of other species are passing by, delighting whale watchers from Ventura,  Oceanside and San Diego -- all along the coast as they head to the lagoons of the Baja.  Seeing the "blow" remains a thrill even after dozens of sightings worldwide.  This year is a banner year for watching these magnificent creatures. Besides bountiful numbers of grays, blues, humpbacks and minkes are also being spotted, along with thousands of playful dolphins. I was initiated years ago when as a newlywed, we watched whales off San Diego. It was a marvel and left an indelible imprint.  Keller took this mother and calf photo in April, a thrill for both of us. We'll soon watch the northbound whales.   A  grey whale "spy hops" off the coast of San Diego near  La Jolla, bringing his body above water level, a sight to behold. It's prime whale viewing season here now.  TEN MINUTES  from our home, we're in good company as more than 20,000 gray whales pass by enroute to warmer waters south. Channel Islands prime whale viewing They make an impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey from Alaska to the lagoons of Baja San Diego Whale Watch has been tracking whales for nearly 10 years, year round. Grays are being seen now, and blues in the summer.  California, where the females give birth to their calves. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- on all of the several boats that offer a chance to commune with these magnificent creatures. City Cruises' Hornblower vessels offer longer tours, leaving from San Diego Bay with interesting commentary on the city's fascinating waterfront and sea life before we hit the ocean. Naturalists from Balboa Park's famed Natural History Museum share whale lore and commentary illustrated with props.  San Diego Whale Watch offers shorter, equally engaging trips from Mission Bay, closer to the water for a shorter trip. Check out the websites to determine the best fit for you and your group. We've been binging on whales the past few weeks, letting the ocean calm, delight and encourage us. It's good therapy as we recover from our state's recent fires.    Whales, dolphins delight in Channel Islands Baleen is made from keratin, the same material in our human fingernails. For baleen whales it filters food.   Everyone wants to see "the blow," and we've been lucky this year to many times see what looks like mist. It's actually expelling warm air from its lungs into the cold atmosphere. The temperature change causes water vapor in the whale's breath to condense into water droplets, creating the misty spout that can be seen for miles. if you're quiet, you can really hear the sound of his blowhole -- a mighty whoosh of air expulsion. Thus the expression, "thar she blows." Aboard San Diego's varied and equally engaging whale watching enterprises, one learns about the symbiotic relationship between the whales and their "hitchhikers" -- barnacles and lice, which use the whale for free transport while they hunt for food, picking off pieces of dead skin and flesh. To see the rainbow like spray of air from the blow and hear them breathing is an absolute thrill.  With the help of knowledgeable volunteers, we admire samples of the baleen which acts as a food filter. Whales suck in water and scoop its contents, straining the protein rich fish and shrimp for nutrition. We were enraptured to photograph a mother and calf, a rare occurrence and happy moment. WE'VE WATCHED whales cavort in the waters of Hawaii, Norway, Iceland and Mexico. I can honestly say our best whale watching is in southern California.  To book City Experience Hornblower To book San Diego Whale Watch   COMING SOON: We're exploring beauty around us -- both elegant man made art and the exquisite work of nature. Next week, we feature Bo, the handsome head of the lion pride at San Diego Zoo's world renowned Safari Park. Then we cavort on the waters of Fort Lauderdale, commune with Salvador Dali's spirit in Spain and giving tips on how to find and use a bathroom abroad.  We look at a San Diego's family run enterprise which introduced whale watching to the world.  All that and more, as Flagship Cruises celebrates its 110th birthday with record breaking whale sightings up the southern California coast. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, nature, travel, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

With a rooftop view of Barcelona, our road trippers visit Park Guell, on Carmel Hill in the Gracia district of Barcelona. It was designed by famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi and is considered a masterpiece of imagination and modernist architecture. Gaudi is also known for his inventive homes and apartments and his lifelong project, the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world and a wonder to behold. STEP INSIDE GUELL PARK AND ENJOY ITS MARVELS: SERPENTS, COLUMNS, WAVES With a rooftop view of Barcelona, our road trippers visit Park Guell, on Carmel Hill in the Gracia district of Barcelona. It was designed by famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi and is considered a masterpiece of imagination and modernist architecture. Gaudi is also known for his inventive homes and apartments and his lifelong project, the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world and a wonder to behold. The Dragon Stairway invites visitors to climb into a magical world  and the Hypostyle Room of 86 columns. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONE OF the most popular attractions in Barcelona is Park Güell. The stunning park is like no other, the creation of famed architect Antoni Gaudi.  It is found above the city on  Carmel Hill, which offers a spectacular view of beautiful Barcelona. We took a bus to within a couple blocks of the wondrous place, and on our third visit we saw new detail. MOST PEOPLE  visit to see the vibrantly tiled Serpentine Benches in the Greek Theatre with its panoramic views. But, there are many more equally engaging things to do and see in Park Güell. THIS VISIT,   The Laundry Room Portico, meant to resemble ocean waves.  we explored the Laundry Portico, marveled at the Hypostyle Hall, ascended the Dragon Stairway, visited Gaudi’s House and said hello to the beloved dragon, "El Drac." The first landing offers a variety of capricious shapes including  goblins, while halfway up the steps is the emblem of Catalonia. One must stop to admire the dragon -- actually a winsome salamander -- covered with decorative tile-shard mosaic. This has become the most popular image of the park and we enjoyed watching young and old "pet" the mosaic creature which acts as the symbol of Barcelona. ‘'El Drac'’ is known by other names -- "the dragon"’ and "the Park Güell lizard." Acting as a guard for Park Güell, it was created from brick and is coated with Gaudí’s signature Trecandís technique.   Gaudi House Museum is a wonderful, detailed look at the world, its colors and forms that shaped the artist.  THE PARK was built between 1900 and 1914, inspired by the "garden city movement" of the 20th century. Gaudi was a visionary and built the park on the edge of the city.  His notion was to allow the park and the self-contained communities within it to be surrounded by both clean air and green open spaces.   A famed Catalan architect, Gaudí was also a savvy businessman and named the park after his sponsor Count Eusebi Güell, who loved Gaudi's work and endowed his creativity. The mosaic salamander statue has become a symbol of Barcelona.   The estate remained Gaudí’s family home until his death in 1926. That's a sad story because he was hit by a tram on his way to inspect his beloved Sagrada Familia, and had no identification on his person.  He was identified several days after the accident in a pauper's morgue, and when people realized it was the great man, he was accorded a massive funeral befitting royalty.  THE SERPENTINE  Bench is another favorite of ours, a well loved mosaic tile bench that winds its way along the terrace around Park Güell. It was created by Gaudi using the Trencandís technique, which he invented, and was widely copied during Catalonia’s modernism and surrealism periods  Mosaic creatures and plants  deck the halls of the park. THE AUSTRIAN Gardens and Gaudi House Museum were originally meant to be part of a grand housing estate plan. It was Gaudi's hope that 60 villas would be built  Guell Park deserves a visit; do plan to spend several hours. but the plan failed. So Park Güell was opened to the public, and the Austria Gardens became a plant nursery. Poignantly named, they gained their title through a donation of cherished trees from Austria in 1977. Both houses built on the estate can be viewed from the gardens.  One of them became Gaudí’s home, and is known as the Gaudí House. It's a charming place with personal effects providing insights into the life of a true visionary and genius. At Guell Park, the stairs are often photographed, and one may book a tour of the place so as not to miss highlights. CONSTRUCTED in a slanted shape, the Laundry Room Portico was designed to mimic an ocean wave. Created with textured walls and statues, the pillars at the exterior were put in place in order to secure the road above. Typical of Gaudí's genius, he cleverly used design to blend his creativity with the surrounding natural environment and meet the demands of the complex construction. We highly recommend Visit Barcelona tickets. Wonderful way to see the city. For more about this fascinating city and its rich cultural attractions: www.barcelonaturisme.com   "Dance" by Henri Matisse, was painted in 1920 and is among the world's most beloved paintings. It resides in New York's fabulous MoMA. ON TAP : We're on the trail of unique museums, art projects and nature inspired wonders around the world. We'll take readers inside the Museum of Modern Art in New York and check out the city's delightful High Line, a public park and walkway built on the site of an elevated historic freight rail line which was in disrepair. That and British trains, caves, craters and Central Park as it welcomes spring. We'll also feature a veteran special effects artist who found success in Hollywood. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family, performance and more:    www.whereiscookie.com

Meet Bo, who posed for us this week, a handsome nearly 9-year old male lion, the head of his pride which includes three females.  The African lion is listed as a "vulnerable species" because of declining numbers due to poaching, habitat loss and trafficking. He had just eaten and was relaxing. AWARD WINNING SAFARI PARK IS PERFECT EARLY SPRING OUTING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day of touring, watching, learning  at the world famous Safari Park.                                                          THE SAN DIEGO Zoo Safari Park is an international treasure, visited by thousands each year and home to a carefully supervised grouping of 3,000 animals sharing 1,800 beautifully landscaped yet "wild looking" acres. The highly acclaimed park has some of the world's most successful breeding programs, particularly the rhino, who has been brought A female kangaroo wakes from an afternoon nap. back from near extinction thanks to parks such as San Diego's. The city's rare white rhinos (the same color as grey) are the only two left on the planet. That makes seeing these wondrous creatures even more special.  WE SPENT a full, happy day at this enchanting place,  hopping aboard the Africa Tram to get a bird's eye view of the park's  beautifully arranged habitat.   A view of the grounds from a lookout near the elevator. We had a terrific guide who stopped so we could get close-up views of giraffes, rhinos, antelope and gazelles. We also saw mule deer, "freeloaders," who visit the park as unofficial guests, enjoying the grounds and a nibble. THE CRITTERS we saw are free to roam happily on the savannah grounds within artfully designed areas to separate but not "fence".  The grounds were landscaped to resemble the foliage, shelter and open spaces the animals enjoy in their native habitats. The dozens we saw appeared happy with the arrangement. Besides beautifully tended grounds for the critters, the zoo boasts a fascinating botanical garden with over a million plants, carefully marked. San Diego Zoo Safari Park has two platypuses. The semiaquatic, egg-laying mammal is endemic to eastern Australia. We were lucky to catch a glimpse.   OUR TERRIFIC 20-minute tram ride gave us an idea of what we'd like to see more of and return to.  We knew that would include the Australia walkabout since we have many times visited that continent and observed its unique critters. Speaking of walking, prepare to get your exercise.  It's a large expanse and we logged over 4 miles on our recent visit. Motorized carts are available for rental and a variety of tours can be organized for those who don't want total independence.  More than 1.6 million visitors joined in the exploration and learning experience at the park last year. Among the pleasures is watching a tiger nap -- feet and legs in the air, almost comically relaxed.   Christene "Cookie" Meyers watches a sleeping tiger close-up . Besides observing napping critters, you'll see lots of lively ones including a variety of monkeys. We watched lesser spot-nosed monkeys, a lively troop of capuchin monkeys, colobus monkeys and northern black-crested mangabeys sharing a habitat. Spot-nosed monkeys are about too, and and wolf's monkeys hang around with their pygmy hippo pals. If you time it right, you'll see them swing through the trees. Our favorite interlude was watching a lion chow down on a beef shank, as nearby vultures await the scraps. Then watch them peck on the bones. Special tours are available as additions to the regular ticket.  You can join a small group like this one to get up close and personal . As part of the ticket which begins at $76, you can access the cheetah run to witness the lightning speed of these big, beautiful cats. You can feed the lovely lorikeets by hand as they swoop down, and various upgrades are available for more money. You can book a wildlife safari, for instance, to travel in the back of a covered open-air safari truck -- like   Top scientists and dedicated researchers are using their skills to breed endangered and nearly extinct rhinos and other species. This rare white rhino is nearly gone from Earth.    the ones I've ridden in during African safari. The truck travels through the park's expansive savanna habitats with an expert guide providing information on each animal.  The entrance hall at San Diego Zoo Safari Park welcomed over 1.6 million visitors last year. ANOTHER terrific aspect of a visit is learning. It's wonderful to see groups of school kids taking photos, soaking it all up.  And the knowledgeable volunteers who are always within easy reach enrich the experience, answering questions, giving pointers on best viewing spots.  We found the docents helpful in tracking down the platypus exhibit. We had to adjust our eyes as we entered the dark world of this shy creature to catch a glimpse of the female swimming around, resting on a log and generally enjoying the attention (or so it seemed to us delighted tourists.)   THE WEATHER is perfect in San Diego this time of year -- in fact, it averages 72 degrees 12 months a year. So enjoy this special place and support wildlife.  With the various upgrades available, you can spend a bit more than the ticket. There are money-saving ticket packages including one that combines the Safari Park entrance with the Zoo and SeaWorld.  Various coupons and discounts can also be found with a little shopping around on the internet. You'll also pay a parking fee of $20.   sdzwa.org ; zoo.sandiegozoo.org A Flagship trip promises fun, learning, comfort and colorful commentary.                                                 UPCOMING FUN: We didn't know -- did you -- that San Diego invented the whale watch? A family run enterprise, Flagship Cruises, began the first whale watching adventure after the commercial hunting of whales was banned in the 1970s. We're off with Flagship on a fabulous whale watching adventure (that's Cookie in the purple hat, front row, looking at photos just taken of the frolicking dolphins.) We're exploring the art of Salvador Dali, the fun of a Fort Lauderdale visit, and a look at highlights of New York City. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on  travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Flagship Cruises introduced whale watching to the world.  Here, naturalist Sophie, helps passengers look for two whales she and the captain have just spotted. FLAGSHIP'S PROUD HERITAGE INCLUDES INTRODUCING THE WHALE WATCH              TO THE WORLD STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers bundle up for a cool and satisfying February whale watch on Flagship. FLAGSHIP CRUISES  has the honor of launching the world's first water-based whale watching tours. That's one of many feathers in the cap of this waterfront institution in  San Diego. But that's just part of Flagship's history.  In the city's formative days,  Flagship was on the scene.The line's story traces back as far as modern San Diego, considered by most historians to be the last years of the 19th Century and the first part of the 20th Century. The company claims this heritage because it began service in 1915, now celebrating 110 years of serving a worldwide clientele. A grey whale's breech brought gasps and cheers aboard Flagship's Marietta in San Diego. The family owned company  offers a rewarding whale watching experience, with lively commentary and a theme of environmental protection. Dinner cruise offers fun night out   LIKE SAN DIEGO, Flagship has been shaped by many innovations and transformations over the past century. It grew and expanded to meet needs of a growing city's residents and tourists and conventioneers from all over the world. Most visitors spend at least a part of a day on the water. Flagship's whale watching vessel, the Marietta, is clean and airy, offering plenty of room to move about for viewing. The fleet expanded to meet that need, and the vessels include yachts as well as ferries. Flagship makes the only regular daily service to Coronado, a tradition dating back to long before the bridge was built to connect the city to the famous resort town."We always strive to better serve the needs of our guests, humbled by the millions of passengers who chose to make memories on our yachts and ferries," says as recent press release. FLAGSHIP HONORS  the environment and the city of San Diego, in all its excursions, from harbor tours to brunch cruises, dinner cruises, whale watch excursions and private charters. We've been on Flagship a dozen times through the years and have never failed to be entertained and satisfied. Knowing the family still has a hand in the business enhances the experience and is a serious reason for our loyalty. The company began as the Star & Crescent Boat Company, after the family-owned Star Boat Company, operators of San Diego's first harbor excursions, merged with its competitor, Ralph Chandler's Crescent Boat Company. Long before freeways and bridges, the new 16-boat fleet provided transportation between Roseville, Fort Rosecrans, Imperial Beach, Tijuana and the Coronado Islands. It also offered deluxe Well informed guides point out other sea life along the way, here this sunbathing sea lion.   harbor tours. The fare was 50 cents. Resident whales up the coast  THE PROUD history of Flagship includes helping the U.S. win World War II. In 1942, the company donated its harbor excursion boat Estrella to the government to ferry defense workers and members of the armed forces. Whale watching is a proud part of the enterprise. Six years after commercial hunting of gray whales was banned, the world's first water-based whale watching tours began in San Diego, launching a global industry. For $1, passengers could take a boat trip to experience an up-close view of the beautiful migrating creatures. The price is a bit higher now, but the thrill of whale watching with a skilled captain and great commentary from a good guide remains the same. A delightful 15-minute ferry ride awaits nearby to take you to or from Coronado Ferry Building from Broadway Pier or the Convention Center. IF YOU are visiting San Diego, you will be treated with a variety of Flagship offerings. Consider booking a fun, fact-filled harbor tour or an elegant dining cruise. Flagship also offers private charters, and a thrilling jet boat that had me quivering as we bounced along. Plus the historic Coronado Ferry still operates daily, as it has for decades. It's a delightful way to get from the city to "the island," which is really a peninsula, a very different, more laid back village-like environment.  Coronado is a lovely and historic resort city across the bay with great restaurants, fun shopping, theaters, art galleries and the world famous Hotel Del Coronado where Marilyn Monroe splashed in the sea during the filming of "Some Like It Hot." More information: 619-234-4111  Click here to book your adventure Theater lovers are flocking to "Once," and a bounty of other plays and musicals in southern California. Please support your local theaters. FUN ON TAP : Theater is thriving all over the world, with a pre-spring bounty of plays and musicals opening across the nation. Here in southern California, we feature some of our favorite venues and productions, with encouragement to friends and readers to support local theater wherever you are. We'll preview a host of openings, including "Once," a Tony award winning musical featuring Irish music -- as a preview to St. Patrick's Day. There are also dramas, comedy and introspective works, with something for every theatrical taste. Next week's piece will give you reasons to support theater wherever you live -- or to make a quick trip to San Diego to satisfy your play-going palate. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, nature, art, family, travel and more: www.whereiscookie.com

FABULOUS FARE ON THE BOARDS IN SAN DIEGO AREA AND IN YOUR COMMUNITY SPRING BONANZA IN SAN DIEGO  Waiting for the house lights to dim, top and above, are Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers For them, theater is a necessary thrill to feed their souls. Support live theater, wherever you are. There is nothing like the connection live performance offers. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU LOVE  theater as much as we do, you consider it not a frill or extra, but a necessity. Please consider supporting yours -- wherever you are in the U.S., or the world.  Volunteers are always needed, especially as ushers. And there's a perk. You'll receive tickets to shows if you contribute  time and talent. We visit many San Diego and Los Angeles area theaters on a regular basis, proud that Southern California is blessed to have an abundance of  enchanting theater venues. As grateful members of the audience we give thanks for talented actors, directors, designers, technicians, marketing pros and volunteers whose talents feed our artistic appetite. Each year we happily offer a spring roundup of "the best on the boards" in theater loving San Diego.  We urge our friends around the U.S. and world, to support local theater. For us, it's a lifeline, not an extra. North Coast Repertory Theatre never fails to entertain, provoke, amuse, in Solana Beach.  NORTH COAST REPERTORY THEATRE:  With imaginative sell-out performances, "What the Constitution Means to Me" is the latest offering, through March 23. The Pulitzer Prize finalist promises  "an emotionally charged, thought provoking theatrical experience" exploring the U.S. Constitution's significance in contemporary America with wit and political insight. The intimate house has no bad seats for feasting on an ambitious mix of musicals, world premier dramas, comedies and classics.  The dedication, energy and creative spin of visionary artistic director David Ellenstein satisfy older patrons while drawing enthusiasm from new, more demanding younger crowds. In spring, watch for "Peril in the Alps" a world premier mystery romp; "Birthday Candles" celebrating one woman's birthdays through the decades in June, and "A Gentleman's Guide to Love and Murder in July-August.  Ellenstein and company give imagination a whirl with a satisfying blend of both fresh and familiar work, always enjoyable.  northcoastrep.org     Ground-breaking at Cygnet's new digs in Liberty Station. Three fine productions cap Cygnet's tenure in Old Town, before the summer move.   CYGNET THEATRE.   Capping last year's successes, Cygnet Theatre presents its final season in Old Town before moving to its new home at the Joan and Irwin Jacobs Performing Arts Center at Liberty Station.  Under the guiding force of artistic director Sean Murray, "The Joan" will launch its 21st season in September in a new, contemporary 289-seat proscenium theater and a 150-seat flexible studio space. Murray, also a versatile actor (from "My Fair Lady" to "The Rocky Horror Picture Show" and as an endearing Scrooge in "A Christmas Carol") caps the 2024-25 season in Old Town directing a first-rate piece of writing flawlessly acted. "Other Desert Cities" is up through March 2, a searingly complex family story with both humor and pathos. Then a fresh, fierce comedy, "The Hot Wing King," April 9-May 2 (sounds delicious, as a group of friends prepare their entry for a culinary contest.) Finally, that classic musical theater war horse "Oklahoma" offers venerable musical comedy, June 11-July 20. www.cygnettheatre.com    ' 'Once" celebrates the music of Ireland with a spirited band, engaging story and top singers --just in time for St. Patrick's Day! LAMB'S PLAYERS THEATRE:    Lamb's Players can be relied upon for polish and spirit in spades with top actors, singers and musicians. "Once" reinforces Lamb's reputation for excellence in a return engagement of an award winner, in time for St. Patrick's Day. It began as a 2007 movie, then the lively musical was a Tony winner on Broadway before winning raves in San Diego 7 years ago. The show is artfully staged by Lamb's artistic director Robert Smyth with a returning crack cast of fabulous musicians and singers who move  "Once" is on tap at Lamb's Players.  gracefully about the pub setting. This first-rate production boasts terrific leads and support, including Smyth's wife, Deborah Gilmour Smyth, who sets the high energy and polished tone. Watch for her in Horton Foote's Tony winning "The Trip to Bountiful" April 15-June 1, followed by a musical celebrating the '70s this, and G.B. Shaw's classic "Arms and the Man," next fall.  It's a lovely drive to Coronado, across the bridge from downtown San Diego.  Plenty of restaurant choices, too, to extend the fun.   lambsplayers.org Leigh Scarritt, Rachel  VanWormer captivated us in "The Half-Life of Marie Curie," at New Village Arts. New Village Arts also produces unique cabaret shows, including "Love, Linda" which told the story of Mrs. Cole Porter in a pitch-perfect and delightful performance by Sandra Ochoa Rice. The show features many of Porter's masterpieces dazzlingly delivered with a three-piece band. NEW VILLAGE ARTS .  This cozy 99-seat theater in Carlsbad opened its spring season with a bang. Theater lovers raved about the captivating production of "The Half-Life of Marie Curie" which just ended a brilliant run. Two accomplished actors cast a spell: Rachael VanWormer and Leigh Scarritt as Madame Curie and fellow brilliant scientist, Hertha Ayrton. Typical of New Village productions, it featured artful lighting, an eye-catching set design and mesmerizing talent.  The ambitious Carlsbad venue produces year-round musical events, cabaret and concert readings of Broadway musicals. Up next is "La Havana Madrid," March 21-April 27,  about Chicago’s legendary nightclub where newly arrived Latino immigrants dine, dance and find community.    newvillagearts.org Diversionary Theatre is always a  treat, even in the rain. Its productions appeal and are inclusive, original. DIVERSIONARY THEATRE . The current season at our nation's third oldest LGBTQ theater includes "We Are Continuous," through March 9, a lyrical work about love and the ability to change by acclaimed playwright Harrison David Rivers.  Diversionary is a small, mind-challenging venue with a lovely, welcoming theater and impressive education outreach.  It opened season 39 in its recently renovated space, including a cozy cabaret with drinks and live queer-themed entertainment. An inclusive, enterprising playbill espouses love, honesty, humor and hope with a mission to inspire and celebrate diverse LGBTQIA stories. Always an enriching visit.   diversionary.org MOXIE THEATRE:  Watch this ground-breaking company,  known for its generosity to students, and for its diverse repertoire of female focused work. Some of the region's best actors have graced Moxie's stage where each season presents surprises and delights. "Man and Moon" is typical fare, featuring the story of a transitioning man, Aaron, and Luna, a young girl with a passion for outer space. Depend on Moxie for imaginative breaking of stereotypes.  moxietheatre.com A series of tributes headline at The Welk, where people may also enjoy the attractive grounds. THEATRE AT THE WELK.  The beautifully designed theater, at 8860 Lawrence Welk Drive in Escondido, presents an uplifting mix of concerts, musicals and tributes. "Gypsy Dreams" is a tribute to Fleetwood Mac Feb. 19, followed by "A Rockin' Tribute to the King," Wednesdays March 5-26, with a band on stage backing award winning singer-actor Scot Bruce as a convincing Elvis. "Fortunate Son," a Creedence Clearwater tribute, follows on Wednesdays in April. "FABBA" is an Abba tribute in May and June, and popular performer Jason Lohrke returns with his acclaimed Neil Diamond tribute in July.  welkresorts.com David McBean, front, and Jason Maddy as "True West" brothers.   ROUSTABOUTS THEATRE CO .: This talented, daring company  features some of San Diego's finest actors in a range of funny, touching and acerbic pieces.   Actor Phil Johnson is at the helm as company co-founder. He was brilliant in a rousing one-man show, "A Jewish Joke," which went on to play New York.  His enterprise engineers comedy nights and other delights, with talented local casts. Sam Shepard’s searing "True West" is up next, a story of   sibling rivalry between estranged brothers Austin and Lee, who have reconnected. It is set in in the foothills of California's San Gabriel Valley at their mother's home.  The production runs at Diversionary Theatre March 27-April 13. Rely on Johnson and company for originality, always pushing the entertainment envelope.  theroustabouts.org SCRIPPS RANCH THEATRE . Creative use of space on the campus of Alliant International University provides a welcoming, intimate forum for another challenging season. "White" is next up, billed as "a comedic story that explores privilege in the art world." The production promises twists and surprises, subverting expectations as it illuminates contemporary culture. The run extends through March 9. Scripps celebrates the unusual, with an always ambitious season.   scrippsranchtheatre.org                                                                           La JOLLA  PLAYHOUSE . Continuing this venerable, top drawer theater's dedication to the unique, La Jolla Playhouse would make founder Gregory Peck proud with its 2025-26 season including an intriguing world premier, "Three Summers of Lincoln."  Award winning La Jolla Playhouse offers another world premier. "Three Summers of Lincoln" features gospel, R&B and more.   It features an original score blending gospel, R&B, and more with Christopher Ashley at the helm as artistic director. Under his guidance, the award winning playhouse took home a Tony for "Far From Away," another world premier which debuted in La Jolla and went on to Broadway. He is proud of the 2025 Without Walls ("WOW") Festival set for April 24-27, promising immersive and site-inspired work. Presented in partnership with the UC San Diego, the WOW Festival features four action-packed days of theater, dance, music, puppetry, spectacle events and more.    lajollaplayhouse.org SAN DIEGO MUSICAL THEATRE:   Musicals reign at this venue. "Hello, Dolly!" is on the boards through March 9. We've seen spirited shows here, including "Forever Plaid" and "Little Shop of Horrors" -- an admirable mix of musicals, including "In the Heights," which introduced Lin-Manuel Miranda to the world.  SDMT's lively  popular grassroots enterprise made its name with romantic comedy and trusted musical theater works, thanks to musical-loving founders Gary and Erin Lewis who launched the endeavor in 2006. It has a loyal following for its varied repertoire.  sdmt.org   TRINITY THEATRE CO:    This company's goal is "to unify friends, family, and community." TTC believes all people wishing to participate in the performing arts should have a venue in which to inspire and be inspired. Shows blend the talents of seasoned performers and spirited newcomers, in both performance and technical aspects of theater.   " The Seussification of Romeo and Juliet!" just wrapped, a lively adaptation of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet told in a whimsical, Seussian style. (Spoiler alert: no one died.) Like Trinity's mission, it mixed rhyme and rhythm with playful characters, and vibrant storytelling, aimed at involving young people. Trinity works with schools to encourage theater arts education and foster community involvement, celebrating the arts for performers and patrons alike.  trinityttc.org   WITH THIS BOUNTY,   spring theater is in full flower in southern California with March celebrations and discounts during San Diego Theater Month with discounted tickets at more than 30 venues. Check for similar festivals in your town and consider supporting your local theater, symphony, chorale and band. Be generous with buskers. And remember: a pair of tickets to a play, musical or concert makes an excellent gift. www.sandiegotheatremonth.com Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller on  the trail of waterborne fun, from water taxis to cruising. We visit Fort Lauderdale on land and water, admire artists in Spain, explore Central Park in New York and pay our respects to both man made beauty and the art of nature.   FUN ON THE RUN:  In the next few weeks, we offer a lively mix of fun pieces, from the waters of Fort Lauderdale to the art museums of northern Spain and Barcelona. We offer practical pointers on finding a bathroom in Europe and elsewhere abroad, and we visit  spectacular attractions in New York City, including Central Park, the High Line and the world renowned Museum of Modern Art.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, performance, travel, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Andy Schoneberg worked on the award winning film, "Inglourious Basterds," here with Jake Garber, just after filming his scalping.  The film is set in Nazi-occupied France during WWII, when a group of Jewish-American soldiers, "The Basterds" spread fear in the Third Reich by brutally scalping Nazis.   From left, artists Andy Schoneberg and Nicole Michaud,with Schoneberg's creation of famed actor Humphrey Bogart,   Christene Meyers and Bruce Keller joined the party. DRIVEN BY A DREAM:  MAKING MAGIC WITH SPECIAL EFFECTS IS WHAT HE LOVES BEST STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Andy Schoneberg Andy Schoneberg applies makeup to Diane Lane for "The Oldest Living Confederate Widow..." Editor's Note: The writer and today's featured artist met many years ago during their years at The Billings Gazette. They collaborated on theatrical productions and Schoneberg created a bronze of the writer's late husband for a garden in his memory on the campus where he taught for 25 years. WHEN ANDY Schoneberg arrived in Los Angeles 40 years ago, he had $500 and dreams of making it big in Hollywood. Since then, he's crafted a successful career in special effects and makeup and has seen the city through highs and lows: Oscar ceremonies, star studded receptions, riots, drought, COVID and the recent horrific fires. Through it all, he's kept his equilibrium, continuing to create. Monsters, movie stars, rock icons, famous paintings by masters all fascinate this master craftsman. Schoneberg's fascination with the Beatles resulted in creation of four life size faces of "the Fab Four." Here is a silicone   mannequin of John next to a final sculpture of Paul. Below  those are sculptures of George and an unfinished Ringo. Schoneberg's credits are well known to movie buffs. His wizardry includes crafting the hands of "Edward Scissorhands" for Johnny Depp, transforming Diane Lane into the "Oldest Living Confederate Widow" and working on dozens of other films from horror movies to documentaries -- "Jurassic Park," "Terminator 2," and more. Ghosts and dinosaurs, heroes and villains are all part of his vast and talented repertoire.  Schoneberg even realized a bucket list dream when he met and worked with famed makeup artist Dick Smith, who transformed Dustin Hoffman into ancient narrator Jack Crabb in "Little Big Man."  GROWING UP  in Casper, Wyo., he was constantly drawing. Now at 69, he credits his parents with planting those long ago seeds that led to a life in the arts.  "Both were arts-oriented people. Mom sang  in Casper's community theater. My dad also loved singing and was a fan of big-band music."   Make-up master Dick Smith, left, with Andy Schoneberg. Smith was known as "the godfather of make-up" for his award winning work on "Little Big Man" and many other famed Hollywood films. His parents encouraged him to find his own style, to experiment and study the masters. "I idolized Leonardo da Vinci and copied a few of his paintings," he remembers. "That set up my love of replicating things."   WHEN HE SAW Planet of the Apes in 1968, he wanted to learn how the makeup was done. Driven by his penchant for mimicking, he found materials at a theatrical supply in New York. "I began a series of experiments," he said. "Many of them failed, but I took my tiny successes as encouragement to keep trying."  THE ARTIST'S attraction to Hollywood escalated The writer with Schoneberg's creation of Marilyn Monroe.  from an ambitious dream to a firm goal when he visited Los Angeles with friend Marc Vertin in 1978. "I fell in love with the city immediately," he says. "I knew L.A. was for me." While working on dozens of notable projects, Schoneberg met his partner Nicole Michaud, also a gifted special effects and makeup artist. A native New Englander and painter, she and Schoneberg also teach. "My joke is I help young people grow into artists who make dead people, old people, olden times people," she says.   Quasimodo, with David Woodruff a re-creation by Schoneberg,  for the 90th anniversary of "The Hunchback of Notre Dame" which featured Lon Chaney ACTORS MARILYN Monroe and Humphrey Bogart are also favorites of Schoneberg.  Bogart is the subject of a decades old fascination. As an accomplished actor, Schoneberg has played the famous actor twice in "Play It Again Sam." When he was 23, he was cast as Bogie in that Woody Allen work. In 1980s, working as a newspaper illustrator in Montana, Schoneberg reprised the role. That led to crafting a life size mannequin of Bogey in Los Angeles. "So Bogey and I are star-crossed!"  Schoneberg laughs. "Nicki accuses me of having a Barbie doll because my Bogey has several outfits." Schoneberg and his partner, Nicole "Nicki" Michaud with Schoneberg's "Mona Lisa." He has long admired Leonardo Da Vinci and  his dad said "Wouldn't it be fun to have a Mona Lisa in your living room?" So the Schoneberg replica is also an homage to his father. . AMONG FAVORITE productions is "Edward Scissorhands."  "It was  so gratifying," he says of the Tim Burton movie.  "Tim was fantastic. Johnny Depp was warm and funny, Winona Ryder was friendly, and the whole cast was great."   Schoneberg is delighted the gothic romantic fantasy is still going strong. His work is listed in the credits for building the intricate hands Johnny wears throughout the film.   The writer, Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the dedication of the Bruce Meyers Poets Garden which features Schoneberg's bronze of the late actor, poet and MSU-Billings professor.  Michaud, Schoneberg and his ex-wife Becky have an amicable relationship, sharing pride in Andy and Becky's two kids, both creative people.  "They realize they don't have to work so hard and make the sacrifices I did," he says, "but they love that I did the things I've done." He says of the kids, "Dorian loves to write, and Emily is a fine makeup artist. That makes me happy."  Schoneberg's  plaster cast from the head of Bruce Meyers who played Daddy Warbucks in "Annie" was the basis for a bronze sculpture the artist created for Poet's Garden .  AS FOR  his fascination with the Beatles, he says, "John started as a study in facial muscles and during the addition of muscles to the skull I sculpted, I thought, 'I really should make it look like John."  As he was finishing the famous Beatle, he thought "Wouldn't it be outrageous to do all four of them? And once that seed was planted...BAM!" You can find more about Schoneberg's career, including how he got the "Edward Scissorhands" gig on Instagram: @theschoneberg Here in London King's Cross Station, trains await passengers. We share tips on travel in the United Kingdom with BritRail, which offers a variety of passes to suit individual needs. www.britrail.com UP NEXT: On to spring travel.  We're off on a trek on Brit Rail, to explore the wonders of the United Kingdom with trips to historic York, founded by the Romans, and north to Edinburgh for a stroll on Prince's Street, a visit to the royal yacht Britannia, and tips on visiting famous castles and manors.  Start planning now for a trip to your favorite UK cities and villages, with tips on how to make the most of your time by using the efficient and varied rail system. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Sailing on American Pride is an experience of bonding with the crew and fellow passengers, while enjoying the splendors of sailing on a classic vessel.  Here captain Jeremy Schmich, right, gives a hearty thumbs up with sailor and photographer Bruce Keller on a Long Beach sail.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THERE ARE MANY  pleasures in stepping aboard the American Pride and her "twin brigantines." Chiefly, these three vessels keep the old-time sailing spirit afloat and are educating youth on the importance of our oceans. Adrian Cerna is a devoted student of pirates and shares his knowledge in  stories about the colorful sea bandits . The ships have the look and feel of that colorful bygone era when clippers and windjammers sailed the sea, vying for dominance in global trade, defending their turf with warfare. They are classic beauties and those who step aboard become part of a legacy of learning and wonder. One hears the sounds of the sails as they unfurl, and watches enraptured as the shoreline fades. There's an exciting rush followed by a feeling of serenity as these ships cut cleanly through the waters off Long Beach, California. Being on board is a memorable experience for lovers of the sea and sailing. AMERICAN PRIDE, the official tall ship of Long Beach, is a 129' three-masted schooner berthed in the city's picturesque Rainbow Harbor. The vessel serves as a marine education platform for youth, a floating classroom providing education and opportunities. At the moment she is on hiatus, being refurbished. She'll be back. Meanwhile two other ships continue her mission of education and public participation. Twin brigantines - Irving Johnson and Exy Johnson -- were designed and built in San Pedro as educational sailing vessels. At their launch in 2004, they were named the Official Tall Ships of the City of Los Angeles, an important collaborator. Lifelong sailor Bruce Keller was invited to the helm where he  took the wheel for a few special moments, a thrill for him.  LONG BEACH and San Pedro have long boasted an enthusiastic sailing community. The sailing bug hit the area big time in 2018 when Los Angeles Maritime Institute acquired American Pride, already named the official Tall Ship of the city. Soon, the Children's Maritime Institute was formed as their Long Beach division to educate students on man's crucial connection to the sea. Shortly before American Pride went in for repair, we were invited aboard with an enthusiastic group of fellow sailors, mainly adults. Young people sail her  on special outings sponsored by the non-profit Institute, which owns and operates the vessel. The thrill of sailing shows on the faces of school children, learning the ropes of sailing. -- photo courtesy of Children's Maritime Institute An excited crew member said she's witnessed impressive growth in children as they immerse themselves in the sailing field trips. "They step aboard as complete novices, and you see the confidence grow as they literally learn the ropes."  So while they enjoy a fun outing, it is also a serious learning experience as young sailors study marine biology, environmental science, navigation, teamwork, and, naturally, the art of sailing. On our shoreline sail, everyone on board was passionate -- from the captain to crew to us lucky passengers.  We met a recently engaged couple from Los Angeles, checking the boat out for their wedding reception. ONE LONG  married couple from Long Beach were out for a regular Sunday sail.  The wife said, "We come to celebrate being alive on these ships."  They held hands, smiled and relaxed, enjoying time together on a lovely afternoon.  Twin brigantines, Irving Johnson & Exy Johnson  were built in San Pedro as educational sailing vessels. They are official tall ships of Los Angeles.                         -- photo courtesy of Children's Maritime Institute Each year, hundreds of school kids come aboard. Says Liz Reinhardt, director of development and a devoted backer, "As a non-profit, we are dependent upon our wonderful community support." Grants and corporate support help the Institute and the older Los Angeles Maritime Institute insure that no child be turned away because of lack of funding.  Captain Jeremy Schmich observed, "These popular sailing field trips are important. We teach young sailors marine biology, environmental science, navigation, teamwork, and how to sail. So many benefits..." THERE IS still time to register for or inquire about this summer's activities. On tap are a day camp out of Rainbow Harbor, and both five and 12-day sleepaway camps departing from downtown San Pedro. On a breezy day, deckhands and passengers collaborate on hoisting the sails. It's good to bring layers on any sail. Monthly Sunset Sails continue, too, inviting the community to "come aboard our tall ships, sit back and relax or take part in helping the crew set the sails," says Reinhardt.  Tickets must be purchased in advance for two  upcoming sails: Father's Day Sunset Sail on Sunday, June 15, 6-8:30 p.m., ($60 and $30 for children 12 and under) and a special July Fireworks Sail on Saturday, July 5,  7-10 p.m. ($75 and $30.)   Private charters may also be booked, offering a relaxing venue for team building, Reinhardt says. "We happily book  corporate events, family celebrations, photo and video shoots and more." American Pride in her glory at full sail. She can hold 100 passengers and six crew;59 passengers can overnight on her. Volunteers are welcome and can be trained as deckhands and earn sea time, she explained.    FOR LIFELONG sailor Bruce Keller, an afternoon on American Pride provided "a satisfying and peaceful sailing experience that promotes love of the sea. What a thrill to help set the sails. A top notch time."  Public weekend sailings help fund and promote the youth education arm. The program's focus is to foster a love of sailing and personal confidence building in young sailors.  "For me, as a kid, sailing changed my life and gave me confidence both on land and sea," said Keller. Free deck tours, hands on activities and more shoreline sails are planned. The Long Beach and Los Angeles ports and institutes collaborate on myriad events. Their unique sailing programs are enjoyed by tourists and residents from all over southern California and beyond. The people we met emphasized twin pleasures: relaxation for sailors and the opening of doors for youth. Reinhardt is proud that under-resourced schools and communities in the Los Angeles area benefit from the generosity of donors who support the program.  "Some of these kids have never been on the sea, so it's Lovely sunset view from American Pride.  mind opening," said a woman who sponsors her grandkids for summer programs. "It teaches them so much: not just sailing but self reliance, co-operation, learning about the environment and doing their bit to save our precious oceans." A CAPSULE OF  the colorful history of American Pride: She was built as a two-masted "schooner-dragger" -- an eastern rigged trawler known as Virginia -- and spent 40 years as a commercial fishing vessel. She was completely restored in 1986, when she acquired her third mast, renamed Natalie Todd and operated as a charter boat out of Bar Harbor, Maine. In October 1996, the American Heritage Maritime Institute purchased her. She transited the Panama Canal to her new home in California. She operates under Children's Maritime Institute, the Long Beach division of Los Angeles Maritime Institute. The mission: sailing training, maritime education and living history sharing. More information on scheduling , tours, rental options, summer camps, and the two upcoming weekend sails June 15 and July 5: https://lamitopsail.org www.childrensmaritime.org Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on a stop with Big Bus Tours in Sydney, Australia, a recent trek for the two. UP NEXT: Big Bus beckons.  We take Big Bus Tours on our worldwide jaunts. The time honored agency operates out of many major U.S. and other famous cities.  We enjoy lively narratives, friendly drivers, easy "hop on and hop off" options, free WiFi and more in both a new city or cities we know and love and are revisiting.  Come along to explore in Sydney, Singapore, San Francisco, Tokyo, New York and more, hopping on and off in as we explore, learn and live. Join us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more: www.whereiscookie.com More on Big Bus Tours, click below

The approach to the Tetons can once again be enjoyed from the southern part of Yellowstone National Park.  Three of the five entrances have been reopened, offering many familiar sights. Removing interior wall finish to allow for drying and prevent mold, contractor-engineer Bruce Keller helps neighbors to dry out out and prepare their flooded guest house for remodeling. MONTANANS ROLL UP THEIR SLEEVES, GET TO WORK REBUILDING AFTER THE WORST FLOOD IN 500 YEARS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Essential in any flood repair is to dry out the affected areas, removing wet materials and spraying with bleach or Mildewcide.  MORE THAN a week after catastrophic floods changed the course of Montana rivers, destroyed hundreds of homes, washed away bridges and closed Yellowstone National Park, massive repair is underway.  Flooded homes are being dried out, soaked bedding, furniture, appliances, discarded. Dumps and landfills are open extra hours. The state is forever changed. East and West Rosebud Rivers have cut new channels, Rock Creek and the floods around Red Lodge have put a huge dent in summer tourism. Other tourist towns are hurting. Cooke City, Silvergate and Gardiner which rely on tourism are lamenting the loss of rafting and hiking customers. Owners of restaurants and shops depend on the summer season of selling their wares -- food, souvenirs, equipment, snacks and beverages -- to carry them through the long winter's expenses. Residents of Stillwater County in the Nye area must use Grove Creek Road in the country, to get to Absarokee from the road's entrance above Fishtail, adding a long wait. A pilot car and stop light monitor traffic flow. 'WE'RE STILL contending with the financial effects of COVID, which shut us down two years ago," a Red Lodge restaurant owner told me.  She said, "Now this. It's going to be a sparse summer and a rough winter."   The pandemic hurt Yellowstone two years ago, reducing the park’s June 2020 tourist visits by one-third before the park rebounded later that summer, then had a decent 2021 season. IN OUR NECK  of the woods in Stillwater County, it took me 90 minutes to get from our place on the West Fork of the Stillwater River to grocery shopping in Absarokee, a normal half-hour drive. That's because of a detour along Grove Creek Road above Fishtail until the bridge ut of Absarokee over the 419 Highway to Dean can be rebuilt and that road reopened. Rock Creek flooded Red Lodge streets. The historic Yodeler Motel, far left, was virtually destroyed.  historic hotel, the Yodeler Motel, left, was badly WHEN YELLOWSTONE reopened on Wednesday, officials warned that major park roads and bridges are still washed out. But three of the nation's oldest and first park's five entrances opened, to cheers from hundreds of tourists whose cars lined up more than two miles long. THOSE WHO  could afford to wait out the flood, and extend their travel plans, holed up in nearby towns to await the reopening. Many hotels and motels in Cody, Wyo., West Yellowstone, Livingston, Big Sky and Bozeman were full with "no vacancy" signs. We met a couple from Maine who got the jump on the flooding and were among the first of 10,000 people evacuated from Yellowstone to find lodging. Last Sunday afternoon, they booked five nights at Sawtelle Lodge in Idaho, 17 miles west of the park and were grateful to find lodging. Their reservations at Old Faithful Lodge were extended to this week. The Roosevelt Arch. the ceremonial entrance to Yellowstone National Park, is at the north entrance, now closed. Last fall, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers made an annual pilgrimage. The town of Gardiner is hurting now. TO GIVE PERSPECTIVE to the amount of water in Montana and parts of Idaho and Wyoming; in a three-day period last week, Yellowstone received two to three times the typical rainfall for the month of June. Precipitation has already been more than 400 per cent above average across northwestern Wyoming and southern Montana, according to the National Weather Service. Lake Hotel is open again, and there are vacancies; prepare to pay around $397 per night -- book soon. FRIENDS ON  their way to see us from California reported a new "even-odd" number park entry system that seems to be working well.  Cars with license plates ending in even numbers can enter the park on even days. Odd-numbered license plates allow odd-day entry, so they were able to enter Thursday.  Here's why the park is still partly closed. Roads in the park were damaged, making travel unsafe, so many reservations were cancelled -- some booked for months or a year. Ironically, it is now possible to find rooms -- amazingly.  As more roads open in July, the hotels and campgrounds will likely be fully booked again. but the brief closing and ensuing cancellations opened some space. OUTSIDE THE PARK, in towns such as Livingston, Red Lodge and Fromberg (where the raging Clarks Fork flood damaged 100 homes), brimming rivers and streams that run through the towns has caused record damage that continues to be assessed. Another friend's parents' home in Livingston has two feet   In work clothes and tired, Bruce Keller and  Christene "Cookie" Meyers pause after helping neighbors remove furniture and debris in preparation for redoing a beautiful guest house on the Stillwater River, which produced record water. of water in the basement, sheds, garage and out buildings are flooded, and gardens buried under mud and silt. The home itself is still dry.   PARK Superintendent Cam Sholly said that the two northernmost entrances -- North and Northeast -- will remained closed: Gardiner/Mammoth and Cooke City/Silvergate. That's the park's bird-and- wildlife-rich section where considerable road and bridge damage was done.  Park rangers stressed that many of   the premier attractions are again viewable, including the legendary geyser Old Faithful, the Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone and several hot pot areas. Already, the surge in sightseers has helped the local recreation industry bounce back. One World Trade Center, also known as  Freedom Tower, stands proudly in the area destroyed by terrorists on "9-11" and is part of our Fourth of July tribute piece. UP NEXT:   Fourth of July weekend approaches in the land that we love. Despite heartbreaking damage of the flood, the crushing dent in tourism and destruction of many peoples' homes, roads, bridges and property, we celebrate America next week with a look at our country's magnificent ability to rebuild and rebound, to celebrate, despite adversity and challenge. Nowhere is the American spirit more evident than in the recovery of the massive destruction on the Sept. 11, 2001, attack on the Twin Towers in New York. Now, Tower One World Trade Center stands as proud testimony to a resilient, generous and determined people. We're proud to be American and have many friends worldwide who love our country and visit it for its wonderful cities and countryside, parks and monuments, theater, architecture, museums, restaurants and variety of landscape. They also note the welcoming spirit of our people. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at nature, the arts, family, travel and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The venerable Australian Museum is centrally located in Sydney, Australia, a treasure trove of art, nature inspired history, intriguing indigenous people displays and much more. SPLENDID SCIENCE, CULTURE,  NATURE AWAIT IN THE HEART OF SYDNEY  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AN ENRICHING, ENLIGHTENING museum awaits visitors to Sydney.  The place is a gathering spot for tourists and locals. Here, we observe wonders from around the world, explore native culture, visit other countries and travel through the centuries to see what life was like in an Australia of long ago.  It's all right in the heart of this fascinating museum, a show piece in this varied and fast growing city. Australia's original people are celebrated in a beautifully curated exhibition on their culture THE MUSEUM is known worldwide for its expansive permanent collection and its thorough and imaginative exploration of history and Aboriginal culture.  It has won worldwide acclaim for its Australian fossils and local animal displays. The weekday morning we visited, we were in the company of dozens of awe struck school children, there for both fun and learning.  The museum prides itself on offering educational events for kids. School groups clustered around the popular dinosaurs exhibition which features ten complete skeletons, including a 228-million-year-old Eoraptor. Visitors can expect high tech as well as time honored art and exhibitions. Here, visitors "traveled" to Machu Pichu. WE LINGERED over fascinating displays of dangerous Australian animals such as funnel-web spiders and tiger snakes.  We learned that Australia has the world’s most menacing animals, including venomous snakes, deadly spiders, and savage and powerful marine creatures. On the museum's upper ground floor, we also found friendlier creatures including stuffed kangaroos and koalas, and other representative of Australia's unique fauna, including the Tasmanian tiger. An artful taxidermy space shows visitors some of Australia's extinct animals, here's a grunge. EXHIBITS WALK the visitor through habitats -- arid deserts, lush rainforests, coastal regions,  cities.  An impressive exhibition, "Dauma and Garom," was commissioned for the museum by indigenous artists and is on on display in the large permanent Indigenous Australians exhibition space. The six-meter-tall sculptural installation reflects an effort by the Erub people to combat the damage caused by ghost nets. It depicts a touching love story between a crab (Dauma) and a fish (Garom), characters from an important local story and song. Mesmerizing. The Australian Museum is a wonderland of discovery, with dazzling permanent collection, and an ovrview of the country's vast natural world. The focal point here is "Aboriginal Art Ghost Net," by a UK artist. On exhibit are various works celebrating indigenous people who were the country's first people. The museum has won acclaim for this and its award winning anthropological exhibition area, all free! A SLENDID virtual reality exhibit on Machu Pichu -- gone now -- is typical of the museum's erudite yet user friendly approach to culture.  It is replaced by another imaginative exhibition -- "The Birds of Australia." Like Machu Pichu, it is a unique digital experience, presented on a 3D storytelling cube. Bird lovers know the inspiration --  the work of noted ornithologists and artists John and Elizabeth Gould. Wish we could fly over again to discover Australia's birdlife in this new immersive exhibition. Amazingly, the museum and its grand permanent collection are free. Fees apply to special exhibitions. Tickets are required for school programs, workshops and talks. Click on:  What's On calendar of events . Click here for more on the museum New York's beloved Central Park is a treat for locals and tourists alike.  Colorful carriages await customers, and a stroll through the park is sure to revive and relax. UP NEXT: A fresh new look, with no ads and improved user experience is coming to our website. The "redo" introduces a new, cleaner, more contemporary look with a visit to New York. No  tourist should miss a stroll through Central Park, a restful and yet lively oasis in the middle of one of the world's busiest and noisiest cities.    We take readers inside the park to  look at its charms -- its restaurants, lake, gaming area, food carts and beautiful appointments such as John Lennon memorial designed by his widow, Yoko Ono, "Strawberry Fields."  Tavern on the green and a horse drawn hansom cab await. Or grab your bicycle and join us.  We see why the park garners thousands of visitors in a day, and explore it with a local. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance and more: