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CRUISE JUNKIES OFFER WAYS TO NARROW THE FIELD FOR THE FIRST-TIME OR INFREQUENT CRUISER Bird's eye view for cruisers:  A circle of yachts, large cruise ships and pleasure boats at St. Thomas, Virgin Islands. Crystal's Serenity remains our  favorite of 102 cruises on many lines. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I'VE NEVER MET  a cruise ship I didn't like. But there's a world of difference between the small, intimate vessels and the huge "city on water" mega-ships of the past years. We've had a half-dozen requests recently from first-time and novice cruisers wanting help in narrowing the field. This cave above Toulon, France, offered a gorgeous view for a small group. We hope these hints do the trick. YOUR OWN  personality and preferences will play into your decision -- large or small, glitzy or low-key, dozens of activities or an atmosphere of "amuse yourself." First, consider the ship size and number of passengers it carries. These are useful barometers. Large ships are often called "floating resorts" or "hotels on water."  If there are 2,500 or more people, expect plenty of activity and lots of hustle and bustle. If you're traveling with only a few hundred others, the environment will be quieter and usually more intellectual. But we've met plenty of smart people on large vessels, too. On a large ship, you can be anonymous and keep a low profile, seldom seeing the same people twice. Ships pause in southern Spain before navigating the Straits of Gibraltar. Small ships foster a more casual feeling.  Conversations, quiet games and making new friends are evening activities, rather than the lavish floor shows, a night in the casino or bar hopping. You might be dancing to a jazz trio instead of a 20-piece orchestra. Your choice! Many small ships are modest.  Other small ships pride themselves on lavishness and upscale service. PLUSES  of a large ship: *Mega-ships have lavish nightly entertainment and revues, many bars and restaurants, fully equipped fitness centers with personal trainers, many machines and TVs. The beauty of harbors and the sea can be enjoyed on ships large and small. *Large ships may offer a selection of in-room TV options, including movies, announcements, tour previews, even CD players plus a mix of music stations. *You'll find a large cinema on most big ships, with first-run and recent films each day. *Seminars, lectures, classes, dance lessons, bingo and other games are offered on large ships. You'll never be at a loss for an activity. If you're single or enjoy socializing, you'll be able to participate in theme parties and masquerades and socials inviting other like minded folk.  *If you fear boredom, a large ship might be a better choice for your first cruise. With dozens of activities a day, only the most jaded person will depart the ship feeling unfulfilled. *Shopping:  If you like to shop, head for big ships.  Many have floating versions of all the fine shops we have on land.  Large ships also offer extensive duty free shopping and daily bargains. Smaller vessels offer a chance to explore smaller ports. *24-hour room service and en-suite dining are usually a popular item on big ships. You will also find a florist shop and other specialty shops where you can surprise your partner with a gift or bouquet sent to your stateroom.  SMALL SHIP  advantages: *I'm a reader. Small ships encourage reading and intimate conversation. No "casts of thousands." *Tours are usually small and expertly run, with distinguished professors and guest lecturers describing the ports in a casual environment. (Head for a large ship if you want a huge auditorium with destination images on a large screen.)  But we've met lovely kindred spirits -- experts in history, the arts and archaeology -- on small vessels. The glitz and beauty of large ships, here Royal Caribbean, are a big draw. *Ports of call are generally more exotic and harder to reach in small ships.  Because they can maneuver in intimate ports and harbors, you'll see new villages and towns. If you cruise a lot, the itinerary is not important! Rome, Lisbon, Amsterdam. All great, multiple times. If you're just beginning your travels, ports play a larger role. Smaller ships can get into more exotic places -- here Tenerife in the Canary Islands, in a small, eight-person touring car. *Barge and river cruising: These naturally call for smaller vessels.  We've barged the Loire Valley, Burgundy and Champagne in France, and on the Thames in England.  Once, on an eight-day tulip barge trip in Holland, we were with only one other couple, an older Argentine husband and wife.  We became friends and kept in touch.  But if you happen to book a small vessel with only one other couple -- and don't get along for some reason -- it could be a long eight days.  This has never happened to us. A small port, such as this one in the south of France, may be more appealing than a large, busy port in a major city.  But each has its advantages. *Small vessels such as Seabourn and Silversea offer luxurious treatment and a fine passenger-staff ratio.  Crystal's Serenity offers two floors of Penthouses, gorgeous food and drink, great amenities and extras, and terrific, small tours. In the tradition of "you get what you pay for," the luxury lines cost more. *Besides offering a cozier atmosphere, smaller-size ships tout their unique atmosphere, promising unusual experiences, both on board and ashore. Activities may include kayaking off a wilderness island in Mexico, trimming the sails and climbing the rigging, or island hopping in the Greek Islands. Lisbon's delights include the Belem Tower, which Cookie and Keller visited before their Atlantic cruise. BOTTOM LINE:  What suits your fancy? Full circle to our earlier advice: consider your personality and private life. If you long for the Cookie plays piano whenever and wherever she's invited -- on cruise ships and, here, at Montana Jack's. She'll be there tonight! open ocean but can't stand the thought of an all-night disco,   dining with a thousand others, or queuing up to get off the ship in a congested Caribbean port, you'll probably want a smaller ship. But if you're a veteran cruiser -- and count me as a junkie -- you can have fun in the floating resort, too. You can learn to maneuver the crowds, read and take in the shows, and tailor the cruise to your own liking. "Oh give me a home......" in Nye, MT COMING UP :  Montana Jack's close-up (and Cookie is playing piano there again Saturday and Aug. 31, in Dean, Montana.) We're globe-trotting this month, with a request for a close-up on Barcelona. We've been there many times, and recently. Plus an all-female "Two Gentlemen of Verona" at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, California's coastal gem hotels and home on the range in very rural Nye, Montana.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Bill and Judy Henderson, above, thank several hundred well wishers who gathered at Nye's Fire Hall Sunday. Both expressed bittersweet feelings about their return to Michigan. "You've touched our hearts," said Bill.   RESIDENTS SAY SO LONG TO MERCHANTS, AFTER 43-YEAR TENURE AT NYE TRADING POST Cookie and Judy have a laugh before the festivities begin. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By  BRUCE KELLER IT WAS A community affair, with lots of laughs and some tears, as several hundred Stillwater Valley residents gathered Sunday evening. A tribute and pot-luck dinner honored Bill and Judy Henderson, who came from Detroit 43 years ago to open a small store in Nye that has taken on giant proportions. They've sold Nye Trading Post and are returning to their Michigan roots. Community folks chatted and supped, to honor Bill and Judy. Through the years, everyone who lives within 40 or 50 miles has shopped at the store.  It is famous for providing everything from nails to birthday candles -- with food and drink and staples at the ready. The road to Carter's Camp and the nearby Fire Hall, photographed Sunday. I was asked to emcee the event, at Nye Fire Hall.  A host of volunteers engineered the lively evening, with Penny Keogh spearheading the effort to honor the longtime community pillars. People visited and reminisced, enjoyed a bountiful potluck, and celebrated the passing of the gauntlet from one couple to another. The new owners made a brief appearance, acknowledging the long shadow into which they walk as the Hendersons pack up decades of memories and head out. Nye Fire Hall, photographed at twilight, as the cars began to pull out. Through my 20-plus years on the West Fork of the Stillwater, my family has enjoyed shopping at "Nye Mall." It was there my sister Misha bought worms to catch her first fish!  Countless times, we zipped to the store for a can of pineapple, a half-gallon of ice cream, cake decorations, a pound of hamburger and pickles, milk for a baby, dog food, even foam to drive nesting hornets from the eaves. Countless quick tanks of gas! What a gift to have this treasure trove just "down the road." And always with a cheery greeting and a cat or dog to keep Judy company.  Here, at request, is the poem I wrote to pay homage:  Misha Minesinger's worms -- purchased at Nye Trading Post -- hooked this trout on her first try! (Catch/release.)                                                              ODE TO NYE MALL AND  ITS DEVOTED OWNERS,  Folks came from miles around to enjoy a meal and thank Bill and Judy. THE HENDERSONS  "There once from Detroit came a pair: Bill and Judy in search of fresh air A place in the quiet, away from race riots. A small store they filled with their wares. Through the years, Nye Mall’s been legendary Because of the wonders they carry, In need of some diapers?  Perhaps windshield wipers. They’ll have it, or order, not tarry. As I look around at their shelves, I’m certain these landlords are elves Through the years, what I’ve bought, it’s a wonderful lot! A true work of art from themselves. The cooler’s my favorite addition Walk in -- milk, cheese, beer in position; Goods are tidied each day, but besides the array, Cures hot flashes and other conditions. Nye Trading Post, aka "Nye Mall," is an institution in the small town. Need some dog food, some Triscuits or ice cream? Maybe fancy some biscuits or sun screen? Pop into their store, there you’ll see “more is more” Even unplug your john, get your bowl clean! On our list Bill and Judy are tops For stocking odd items like mops Worms for fishing, you betcha?  Can’t stump them, they’ll getya. Even ordered our workers Shock Top. “Should I call them?” you  think “maybe not.” Volunteers arranged a bountiful supper of casseroles, meats, and more as Bill and Judy Henderson bid farewell to the Stillwater Valley, below. What you need they most surely ain’t got. But you’re wrong, they’ve got jello, red wine and marshmallows By friends here, they ne’er be “forgot.” One more thing now, the critters they’ve saved. “Way too many,” Bill sometimes would rave. They’ve a penchant for cats, there’s one now, as you chat -- And a doggie named Duchess, so brave. Now we’re sad that they’re going away But we notice we’ve turned their hair grey. So a toast, raise a glass, job well done, lord and lass. We salute you, good luck, happy days!"                                       The West Fork and Stillwater Valley won’t be the same without Bill and Judy.  Cookie and Keller and their Yorkies,  Nick and Nora, are among their admirers and grateful friends in Montana and the greater world! Safe travels, Bill and Judy. We'll hold you in our hearts. Cookie entertains at Montana Jack's piano bar, here Saturday night with Rex Anderson, Absarokee veterinarian, who plays whistles and flutes. Cookie's at Jack's Aug. 31 WE'LL BE BACK here at the blog and website, to our regular Wednesday and weekend posts at: www.whereiscookie.com Here, we provide lively commentary and pretty photos of world travels and happenings in our two bases, the Beartooths of Montana and San Diego. We promise a sense of fun as we navigate the globe. Tell your friends and check us out for a novel approach to life, taking time to explore, learn and live. Wednesday's post takes a close-up look at another Beartooth institution, Montana Jack's, where Cookie plays piano, locals sit in to jam, and the food is world class! Check us out Wednesday and please share today's link with friends of "Nye Mall."

Master builder Bruce Keller, whose specialty is high-end La Jolla, Calif., projects, is spending part of his summer in the Beartooths, helping Cookie with their summer home. REMODELING POINTER: YOU WILL EVENTUALLY HAVE BEAUTY,BUT AT A PRICE! PATIENCE IS A PRE-REQUISITE Expert framer Tom Giamanco traveled from San Diego to help. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WAAAAAAAAH. RICKY. I've been making my own personal "I Love Lucy" home movie.  I'm thinking of the famous chocolate candy assembly line, or the grape stomping scene.  I can't remember ever being so frustrated, excited, confused, over-extended and overwhelmed -- with more than a little physical pain thrown into the mix. KELLER knew I'd always wanted a "tree house" in the second story.  With mature aspen, beautiful stars and sky, and a backdrop of gorgeous mountains, large windows to frame the view seem a natural. With bird feeders out the new shower skylight. KELLER MADE it happen.  But it had been 22 years since I'd walked the construction trail, and my moccasins were out of step.  This major overhaul of the second-floor rooms involves the whole house: addition of a new bathroom and bedroom, redo of the office and library, a new solarium bedroom and redesign of the entryway and first floor walkway. Landscaping was torn up. Siding was torn off.  "Demo" -- contractor lingo for "demolition" -- involves destruction beyond belief. I've feared for the lives of our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, lest they be hit by flying debris.  I've been a weepy mess. Tom, painter Jim Slater and Keller keep the Yorkies,  Nick and Nora, safely out of harm's way. BUT HOLD ON. There's bound to be trial and tribulation when people are living in the home being remodeled.  And although Keller's budget estimate was close -- within a few thousand of his original estimate --  the money has been flying out the window like the cliff swallows circling at dusk. Throw in various unrelated annoyances, the ordering, delays, wrong materials, unreliable deliveries and etc.etc.etc.: Plus: Cookie, arm in sling and looking more than a bit overwhelmed, fixes lunch for the troops and awaits her "Calm" pill to kick in.  *Two flat tires on the Explorer were followed by a blow-out on the truck. Darrel Holmquist located the septic  tank and prepared for addition  of a new sewer line to new bathroom. *The refrigerator died three days after we arrived July 1. Because it fits under a custom made cupboard, it is a special heighth and thus a special order.  We were three weeks living out of coolers with the back-up 70-year old Frigidaire in the garage (thank goodness for it.) *One of the toilets in the older parts of the home checked out.  Or was it the plumbing Bruce Keller, left, and Bradford Smith of southern California, at work. below the toilet?  Suffice to say, ugly mess and overflowing waters.  Many towels relegated to rag bag and problem finally fixed, thanks to Stillwater Plumbing. BEARTOOTH LUMBER  has been a godsend, too, delivering much of our needed paint, lumber, drywall, stain and thousands of dollars worth of windows. Lunches and dinners have been a challenge -- with many extra people. But we're eating well. Keller's able colleagues have been flying in and out of San Diego. Don't despair.  Plants will grow back, and everything will be pretty again. All of this wouldn't have been so unnerving with both arms, but with one arm in a sling, result of an accident a few weeks ago, I'm moving more slowly. And I'm still in considerable pain from serious arm injury. CO-ORDINATING  schedules of the back-hoe man, septic tank man, plumber, roofer, and an array of Keller's talented California assistants has called upon my travel agent savvy, meditation skills, and extra helpings of Calms Forte. Good thing I've navigated the world and know how to arrange work times and schedules. Fixing meals for the gang -- nine workers here one day -- has taxed my imagination and resources. I think I have a dazed look on my face much of the time. Builder Tom Giamanco takes time to enjoy the west fork of the Stillwater,  and to keep in touch with his California friends and family.  NEXT UP :  Our two-parter on construction woes segues to tips for staying sane and keeping your relationship happy during a remodeling project.  Especially when you're living in the home you're improving upon, you need patience and good will toward one another. You also need to take time off to have a little fun. And you must look at the big picture:  the addition will be beautiful, the dust and disruption will disappear, and you'll be happy. We try to imbue our pieces with a sense of fun, and our travel stories with the spirit of innovation and adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Sander and saw in hand, Bruce Keller, a summer resident, embarks upon an incredible building journey at High Chaparral. KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE PRIZE AS YOU ENTER A MAJOR BUILDING PROJECT AND, OH, YES, BE NICE TO ONE ANOTHER! Demolition calls for a strong constitution and the knowledge that the chaos will end. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF I HAD KNOWN the full extent of the disruption, and the decline of my patience and mental health, would I have embarked upon this remodeling project in the wilds of Montana, miles from stores and materials and dependable help? Who knows?  Would we do most things that involve complication, unrest and tension?  Would we knowingly toss our routines and securities to the wind? Keller, Tom Giamanco, Bradford Smith clown at hat party.  All three hats represent various aspects of the construction project. The important fact: the new addition will be gorgeous.  I will have helped (a little, at least), and Keller, the maestro of this complicated orchestration, can rest on his laurels for the remainder of our lives. This San Diego native "cowboyed up" to a Montana project as large as the Big Sky he's come to love in eight summers here. KELLER IS A MASTER builder, familiar with the twists, turns, timing needs and difficulties of fitting all the pieces of the puzzle together. So he knew there would be glitches, delays, misunderstandings. He was not surprised at mistakes in orders, running short of cedar planks, errors in the course of the new rooms going up. From left, Brad, Tom and Keller enjoy lunch at High Chap.  I, foolish Cookie, expected everything to go smoothly. (From Keller's perspective, things did!) But in my business of writing, it's possible to make precise predictions.  If I were consistently late for appointments, as a couple workers have been, or if I made serious mistakes, as have happened a few times, I might lose my job. But good workers are hard to find, humans do make mistakes -- even the best in the business -- and orders don't always come in on time. Sometimes the wrong products are sent -- or the plumbing part, tool or window doesn't arrive in Absarokee -- 27 miles away, so a 54-mile round trip can be for naught. Billings means more miles and a day-long commitment. There were many trips there. A rafting adventure gave us a bit of needed R&R.   KNOWING A FEW  things will go wrong, and accepting that fact, then dealing with the situations, is a gift Keller has perfected through 40 years of being a builder and contractor supervisor.  He knows how to line up subs, fitting the pieces of the puzzle together into an intricate jigsaw puzzle.  He maintains good cheer, encourages his colleagues, listens to suggestions. (Except sometimes mine,  I contend.) Working and living in the same house one is remodeling is tough. People are in and out. Things get lost, misplaced, buried. The floor gets tracked with dirt from the digger, dry wall mud and dust.  Small Yorkshire terriers are constantly flinching as nail guns stutter and large tools are dropped or moved. Tom got to meet actor Gary Burthoff, "Radar," of M*A*S*H, at a party. Taking time to "smell the roses" -- a walk to the river, a drive in a Yellowstone Park bus, a silly time at a hat party -- all of these diversions have helped calm us and ease the tension.  We all enjoyed the recent benefit for Stillwater Protective Association at Montana Jack's, and had a fabulous time.  I made a point of fixing pleasant meals -- easy breakfasts and lunches and a tasty supper, and made sure there were cool drinks during the day and beers and wine after a 10 or 12-hour work day. Tom, painter Jim Slater, and Keller, play with Nick, Nora.   ONE NIGHT , the boys went to Gena Burghoff's birthday party the day after I sprained my arm, and met her dad, Gary Burghoff, known to millions as the amiable corporal Radar O'Reilly, on "M*A*S*H." All work and no play makes for a cranky Cookie and she notices the boys get cranky too if they don't have an occasional evening or afternoon off. Keep your spirits up, be nice to the contractor (he's exhausted and is doing a fabulous job!). The boys unwound on short, reviving hikes to the river, and spent time playing with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Big Sky Country's splendors await.  We'll share recent landscapes. COMING SOON :  We head up the California coast, enjoying some of our favorite waterfront hotels and restaurants, and we study the bird and animal life "home on the range" in our other favorite spot in the world, Big Sky Country, Montana! We try to give our pieces a sense of fun and offbeat adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live.  Join us Wednesdays and weekends at   www.whereiscookie.com    l

ENTERPRISING COUPLE OFFERS PEACE, WHOLESOME FOOD IN GORGEOUS SETTING The pristine wilderness area of the Hunter Peak Ranch is a delightful respite from the ravages of contemporary life.    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Over supper, Louie told of a bear chasing a grasshopper.  The bear danced, the hopper escaped.  His stories are part of the fun of a stay at Hunter Peak. IF YOU want a get-away with room service, plenty of activity, and five-star spa treatment, Hunter Peak Ranch is not the place for you. Cookie enters the spacious accommodation at Hunter Peak. But if you desire serenity in a sublime setting, tasty home cooking, hiking out the door, wildlife out the window, and friendly folk when you want company,  Hunter Peak Ranch is tailor made for you! The proprietors are characters! Louis ("Louie") and Shelley Cary are hardworking, down-home people with an obvious love of the land and what they do. Autumn is in the air! Bees make the most and there's snow on peaks near Hunter. Louie was raised on the property, which has been in the family since the 1930s. Shelley came on board in 1969 and they raised a family here. Named for the spectacular peak, the ranch is nestled beneath the mountains on the Clarks Fork River in the Shoshone. A corral houses horses and pack animals, with bear-proof garbage cans. Imagine this picturesque scene years ago, when only a dirt road connected the ranch to Cody. "It took four or more hours to get there," Louie recalls, "and mail delivery came only once a week." WE CHOSE a two-day retreat at this laid back Wyoming spot because we were tired. Nearing the end of an arduous remodeling project, we longed for a quiet place, surrounded by beauty. Friends recommended Hunter Peak. It was perfect. Louie and Shelley are the third generation to operate the ranch, and pride themselves in their old-fashioned work ethic and sense of hospitality. Cookie, Nick and Nora enjoy the dog-friendly digs. There's a corral with horses and donkeys, neat stacks of fire wood everywhere, and trails to take you across the road or by the river. Louie cleared and leveled a road while we were there. Five minutes from our cabin, this lovely scene awaited! The couple -- Louis and Shelley -- manage the guest ranch to honor the tradition established through the generations: a friendly welcome, good food, pretty environment. Suites and rooms are named after the nearby mountains. "We're not babysitters," Shelley told me. "We want people to be self starters, but we're around if need be." THE ROOMS  range from  a grouping of bunkhouse-type cabins (where we stayed, because they are pet friendly), to individual cabins near the water, some with fireplaces.  If we return, we'd love to stay in one of those because having a private fireplace would have been icing on the tasty cake! The scenery was called "a celestial paradise" by one writer, and it truly is. Shelley and Louie Cary. After a torrential rain, complete with rainbows, Louie leveled the road early the next morning.  WE FOUND  our cabin comfy and roomy, with a kitchen suitable for fixing meals. We prepared a supper and breakfast here and enjoyed a meal with the Carys another evening. The food was wonderful: steaks cooked to order, quinoa side dish, fruit salad, homemade rolls and a delicious peach and pear pie baked by Shelley that afternoon.  Rates range from $150 a night to a couple thousand a week for the larger cabins which accommodate up to 10 or 12. THERE ARE  pet friendly rooms! As mentioned, this is a must for us! Keller enjoys a wade in the waters near our cabin at Hunter Peak Ranch. The place attracts a mixed clientele -- from Europeans in love with the mountains and hiking, to American and Canadian tourists in search of change and dramatic scenery. During our stay, we met neighboring summer people from Santa Barbara and Ashland, Oregon, and visited with a family spending several days at the ranch, and a three-generation group from Nebraska.  All of us enjoyed the dazzling peaks and lush mountain valleys northwest Wyoming provides. THE BEAUTIFUL  Chief Joseph Scenic Highway gets you there, or you can do what we did, weather permitting:  go in via the spectacular Beartooth Pass out of Red Lodge, and you'll drop into the valley and Hunter Peak Ranch, just a few miles away. Then we went home to the Beartooths through Chief Joseph, stopping at the much photographed bridge to enjoy a picnic. To book, call 307 587-3711.  Or go to www.hunterpeakranch.com To our delight, there is no cell service in the area, but you may use a calling card on the ranch phone for emergencies. COMING UP:  Why we enjoy "road tripping." The joys of short and long car journeys together. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Mama Mia!  Monuments,  cathedrals, fine food, cheap wine, friendly folk, gorgeous scenery....now that's Italian via Tuscany! Bruce Keller at Pisa, enjoying a light rain to make the place glisten! (who cares if the bathroom is tiny?) STORY By  CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Tuscany's unique green countryside.     Tuscany has something for all.   IF YOU CAN'T agree on a vacation destination -- one person wants scenery, another great food and wine, another monuments and history -- give Tuscany a try. It's "one stop shopping" in the tourist lexicon, where all the major wants, desires and yearnings can be satisfied no matter how diverse the group, or how different a couple's tastes. Many easy day trips can take you from the Chianti region to ancient wonders. From the glories of Renaissance Firenze (that's Florence in English), with its glut of of artistic treasures, to the golden landscape and hilltop towns of the Tuscan countryside, Tuscany is a wonder. Gaze at the beautiful cypress and terraces of the Chianti and Montepulciano vineyards, stroll through Pisa and investigate its famous Leaning Tower. Rent a car and drive south to lovely Siena with its scallop-shaped piazza. TRY SOME  squid and pasta in tomato sauce -- you can smell the basil, garlic and oregano blocks away from the restaurant. Cookie and Keller had morning caffe for less than five Euros in Greve! Stop in to some of the galleries and see why this region has fed the imagination and delighted the senses of countless visitors for many years. For several years, we rented a villa in Chianti near the alluring market town of Greve. Each day, we set off from our 12th Century digs, to explore the countryside with its beautifully restored farmhouses and inviting tiny villages. Greve is a picturesque Tuscan town, with wonderful rentals, inviting piazzas and dozens of fine, reasonably priced cafes.  WE'D FIND  a new cathedral or small museum to while away a couple morning hours, then have lunch at a new restaurant -- always with a half-carafe of the house wine -- about 3 Euros, or $5 and always delicious. The coffee in this part of the world is also delicious -- small jump-charging "piccolo caffe nero" was my favorite morning wake-up, but the grande caffe con panna was Keller's favorite, warm cream in black coffee and yummy with a couple sugars. Squid in tomato sauce over a small bed of linguini (not much! The chef let the squid and tomatoes be the stars!) A Tuscan taste treat. GREVE IS  well known to Italians as the market town of the Chianti Classico wine zone.  It's occupies a lovely cypress covered niche in the hilly region between Florence and Sienna. We liked Chianti because of the reasonably priced villa, the privacy of our own digs with a small but adequate kitchen, and the opportunity to explore. Besides quick drives into Greve, we took day trips to Florence, Siena, Lucca and Pisa. THE OFFERINGS Add caption   of places to stay range from single rooms to lavish apartments, rustic or luxurious farm houses, and villas fit for a prince. Our villa was redone with terracotta tiled floors and beamed ceilings, furnished in country style with authentic antiques and fine copies of paintings by the Italian masters: Giotto, Botticelli, Donatello, Masaccio, Fra Angelico, Piero Della and more. You can visit a different cathedral, plaza, museum, cafe each day, and Tuscans like to mark their monuments and statues with plaques and dates. Our bathroom gave us plenty of laughs -- there was no indoor plumbing 800 years ago -- and the kitchen was tiny, improvised from the day when kitchens were located in separate buildings. We had access to a large, modern swimming pool and a perfect view of vineyards and cypress trees for relaxing, Scrabble, drinking wine and reading. MANY OF  our friends claim to pay less for villas than for modest hotels -- figuring two or three couples, each with a private bedroom.  So consider this option if you're traveling with others. We dined like kings and queens and if we returned to a restaurant, it wasn't for lack of choice.  It was because we loved the food. The most memorable meal -- the aforementioned sauteed squid and garlic in a tomato sauce over just a little linguini! Pam and Kitsy ham it up in their vintage hats, at the Nye Firehall, where exercise took a time out.                                                                COMING UP :  A Mad Hatter party at the Nye Firehall, honoring the exercise class in which Cookie participates. Those alluring California coastal hotels, romantic travel by train, a couple lazy days in Red Lodge, two-stepping out at the Cowboy Bar in Fishtail, a trip to exciting Barcelona. For fun, frolic and off-the-track enticements,  visit us Wednesdays and weekends at:  www.whereiscookie.com And remember to explore, learn and live!

Jack and Ann Mowell, right, contributed\ money, class and enthusiasm into putting Montana Jacks on the map!    JACKS'S DELIVERS GOOD TIMES! COOKIE HITS THE 88s -- WITH SHOW TUNES, RAGTIME, SING-ALONGS; SRO CROWDS ENJOY FINE FOOD & DRINK!  Gena Burghoff and Chris Lockhart team up at Jack's. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "I CAN'T BELIEVE  I'm sitting in the middle of the wilderness, in Dean, Montana, listening to fabulous live music, sipping vintage wine and dining like a queen. I could be in  Manhattan!" Pianist Christene Meyers plays at Jack's again Labor Day Eve, Sunday, Aug. 31.  Chef Chris Lockhart's talents are honed in his English background and world travels. The recent New York visitor was among grateful diners and listeners at Montana Jack's this weekend, while Cookie took to the keyboard for two evenings of piano tunes.  Hostess and manager Gena Burghoff, and her husband, English born chef Chris Lockhart, are at the heart of Montana Jack's success.  Her genteel manner and efficient running of the operation complements his wizardry in the kitchen to make diners feel satisfied and pampered. A handsome lab enjoys the view, too, at Montana Jack's. JACK'S OWNER , international entrepreneur Jack Mowell, rescued the historic restaurant a few years ago, dipping deep into his pockets for extensive renovation. He hired a fine staff to carry out his goals. Burghoff and Lockhart, who enjoy world travel, clicked with the beautiful Stillwater Valley and its eclectic residents. They recently purchased a home near the eatery, to enjoy the scenery when they're not working the Jack's crowds. FABULOUS VIEWS and superb food and drink make Jack's a visual and culinary pleasure. Both chef and manager capitalize on the eatery's strong suits -- natural and man made. Rex Anderson, left, plays an improvisational set while Cookie (aka Christene Meyers) accompanies on piano. THE TWO  are proud that their artfully presented meals are made from scratch, using mostly local ingredients. "We pride ourselves in creating fun new dishes, and giving prompt and friendly service," says Gena, whose sharp eye for a good waiter has recruited personnel from New York and even other continents. Montana Jack's offers a nightly "amuse bouche," (French for "treat your mouth"), a gift from the chefs to delight the taste buds. BURGHOFF  is known for her gracious greeting of guests, her attentive service, and management capabilities. Lockhart, who stays mostly in the kitchen, clearly enjoys his backstage job. They started out their business partnership with a food cart in Red Lodge, The Local Yokel. Gena Burthoff with her parents. Besides her Red Lodge mum, & Florida dad (Gary Burghoff's Radar O'Reilly from M*A*S*H)  Jack's menu expanded the "Yokel" concept, serving sliders, tasty specials and sides. Brunch specials range from seafood roll with tarragon mayonnaise, to English breakfast complete with mushrooms and beans.  My favorites, though, are the dinner appetizers -- a gorgeous foie gras with fig syrup, terrific salmon with buckwheat blini, tasty smoked trout salad with peaches.  Recent house guests raved about the 14-ounce ribeye with a skillet of blue-cheese creamed potatoes. Succulent lamb chops are served with mint and lemon quinoa, and the sea bass is melt-in-mouth, with kale, fennel and tiny Parisian potatoes. Desserts change daily, including divine berry ice creams and a crusty creme brule. JACK'S IS  a treasure.  Let's continue to invest in it -- and reap the tasty, tuneful rewards! Hunter Peak Lodge between Red Lodge and Cody offers a special get-away. COMING UP:   We're heading to Sunlight Basin outside of Cody, and a new discovery: Hunter Peak Lodge in the wilderness. Elk out the window and bear stories over home-cooking.  Plus an all-female "Two Gentlemen of Verona" at the world famous Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Plus more on and off-road fun from California to southern Europe as we continue to have fun in well known and offbeat places. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cows graze contentedly in a thunder storm earlier in the week.  Workers on the new roof took a rain day Thursday.  CONSTRUCTION CHAOS IS GETTING UNDER CONTROL, WING IS HEALING AND WILD LIFE'S FANTASTIC UNDER THE BIG SKY Berries are ripening this week, ready for the bears and birdies. Hawks are on the watch for food, fall.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller load up on Park City, Montana, corn. THERE'S SOMETHING GLORIOUS  about this time of year in the West. Mornings are crisp, mid-day is sunny, the leaves are beginning to turn, and autumn is but a couple weeks away. It's time to layer up! The Park City corn is ready, and we're among hundreds of Montanans and visitors carting home bags! Chokecherries and huckleberries are attracting bears and birds. We've already seen snow in the high mountains! While Labor Day signals the end of summer, winter can come anytime now.  For in Montana, as my grandmother remarked, "We have nine months of winter and three months of company." Pansies love the cooler weather. High Chaparral -- above the remodeling project -- is green and inviting. The prime season seems too brief up here in the northern Rockies. Bruce Keller's grand construction project is at the window framing stage. Despite a melancholy mood as the days grow shorter,  flowers are still gorgeous, the hay is mostly in, wildlife is abundant and the birds and bees are making whoopee while the squirrels salt away seeds and nuts for winter. IT HAS BEEN  a glorious, productive time here at High Chaparral in Stillwater County. An exciting, four-room addition begun July 1 is rounding the bend toward completion. Still, I must complain. Briefly. For years, I've begun my birthday celebration on the first day of the month of my birth.  So August 1 has signaled "day number one" of Cookie's natal celebration. Bighorn sheep are about to begin mating, here cavorting above Stillwater Mine. \ Cookie's birthday includes a half-dozen or more parties! The revels continue through Labor Day, but this year I'm short-changed!  Labor Day falls on Sept. 1, giving me only a month of celebrating.  Normally, I get a month and several days. SO I'M MAKING  the most of it. Please forgive the kvetching. The exercise girls threw me a party, and I turned it around a bit, creating a "very, merry unbirthday" party for them, a la the Mad Hatter's song in "Alice in Wonderland." I'm booked to play piano at Montana Jack's Aug. 22 and Aug. 31. And I've begun plans for a family reunion in August of 2015, a year from now, if you're out there, family and friends. Tuscany awaits -- coming soon here! COMING UP :  A swing through Tuscany in northern Italy, beautiful any time of year but particularly gorgeous as September approaches.     Our look at California's enticing coastal hotels -- all dog friendly -- plus travel by train and a delightful, all-female "Two Gentlemen of Verona" at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. That's what we're up to. We're committed to making our travels fun, and passing along that enjoyment with tips and useful pointers. We hope you'll enjoy, learn and live and tune us in Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

BAJA TIP OFFERS FAST GROWING CABO SAN LUCAS, QUIET AND ARTSY TODO SANTOS The approach to Cabo San Lucas is a memorable one, with its unique rock formations. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER REMEMBER  that bittersweet Eagles song of the 1970s, "Hotel California"? The song may refer to a hotel in the sleepy little town of Todos Santos, which means "all saints."  Ironic, given the attraction to the place from the not-so-saintly musicians of the day. Besides the Eagles, many other other rock stars stayed there, including Crosby Stills and Nash. Of course Keith Richards married Patti  Hansen there. But the genesis of the famous song can't be authenticated. Above, top, tourists enjoy spectacular "Cabo" views. And Todos Santos is proud of its beautiful mission church. FIRST, CABO SAN Lucas.  The rock formations of this lovely place on the Baja California tip are legendary.  We'd explored them before, along with many other tourist boats full of anglers (the sport fishing is world class), snorkelers, and other varieties of sun seekers. All of us reveled in the peace and beauty,spiced up by the region's reputation for fun. Baja California's peninsula, in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur, is home to "Los Cabos" -- Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo. The bathroom of the Hotel California, below, is a throw-back to 1970s hippy days. At right, one of many new buildings. The bay of Cabo San Lucas was once a base for pirate vessels waiting to pounce on Spanish treasure ships. Even fifteen years ago, it was little more than a fishing and canning village occasionally visited by adventurous sports fishermen. Its beach escapes, fabulous snorkeling, parasailing, scuba and sea exploration now recommend it to wealthy second-home owners.  And it has its own "outback," complete with camels.  A few of our group took the camel trek, actually riding on the beasts as they photographed indigenous flora and fauna. New hotels and condos are going up throughout the Baja peninsula. Cabo is also famous for its glassware.  We visited a factory, and stopped at a lovely vista to sip a margarita or two. Salsa -- both the dance and the sauce -- is an artform in Cabo; lively music echoed from the hotel lobbies and pools.  Glassware in bright colors makes popular gifts in Cabo's many shops. CABO NATIVES  are proud of their dolphins, too, claiming these smart and graceful creatures flirt with and communicate with those who venture into the water to swim with them. In winter, Cabo boasts that it has the best whale watching on the Pacific, but I'd put our San Diego whale watching ventures up against theirs.  Still, the peninsula is known for its superb spots to view migrating whales.  Human travelers -- including golfers from all over the world -- come to Cabo for its inviting greens, many with splendid sea views. Cabo's destinctive rock formations. Cabo's colorful history includes many shipwreck stories, and you can still dive for vestiges of the doomed vessels. Scuba aficionados seek out ruins around Pelican Rock, Land's End, Neptune's Finger, Sand Falls, and other imaginative names. Cookie strolls a sculpture arcade in Todos Santos' zocalo. The display honors residents who made contributions to the town.  WE WERE  happy we'd chosen the trek to Todos Santos, a small coastal town at the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, on the Pacific side of the Peninsula.  It's only an hour's drive north of Cabo but it's another world -- quiet, unspoiled, with mango, avocado and papaya trees downtown. The rocks call, and the fun awaits. The trip Keller shops for a t-shirt in pretty Todos Santos. to Todos took us past gorgeous new hotels designed for  U.S. and European tourists. Condos attract ex-patriots, college students on breaks and time share owners, all discovering the Baja. Arriving in Todos Santos, we were greeted by friendly people, quaint galleries and shops, the famous and popular Hotel California with its unique bathrooms, and a beautiful old Jesuit mission. The Jesuits settled in the 1700s, and the church is well loved.   We walked past an artful sculpture arcade honoring town founders and leaders.  We admired restored colonial buildings from the last century and enjoyed ice cream in the zocalo -- town square -- a colorful gathering spot. THE TOWN  is  a haven for artists, craftsmen, surfers and travelers seeking adventure, nature and what some call "Mexico's healthiest lifestyle." Todos attracts hikers, surfers, wildlife enthusiasts, kayakers, snorkelers and birders, too.  The two destinations are radically different.  While Todos Santos' waters are quiet, Cabo's bay boasts high-powered, radar-equipped fishing yachts. Multi-million-dollar second homes are going up in prime vantage points, fringed by thousands of transplanted palms. Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos offer many birds; this booby was our escort down the Baja, into Central America and home. WHILE TODOS  Santos felt authentic and Mexican, Cabo felt more like the U.S. than part of Mexico.  We spoke to content ex-pats who bragged about a mammoth Wal-Mart, new restaurants and a choice of fancy bars.  Puerto Paraíso, an enormous mall on the marina, has everything one can purchase in the states. Each place has much to recommend it, but you'll decide which suits your fancy best -- Cabo San Lucas or Todos Santos. And you can always visit them both. COMING SOON :  The magnificent boobies, and we don't mean female breasts. We're about travel advice and adventure tips with a sense of fun. Remember to explore, learn and live.  Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

A once sleepy fishing village is home to world class hotels and restaurants, water sports and appealing beach front. LIZ TAYLOR, RICHARD BURTON AND THEIR STORMY AFFAIR TURNED THE TIDE FOR SMALL FISHING TOWN Puerto Vallarta attracts an international tourist clientele. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER FIFTY YEARS AFTER  Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton put Puerto Vallarta on the map with their torrid romance, this once-placid little seaside village on Mexico's west coast has become a major resort. Our Lady of Guadalupe Cathedral is a popular wedding site. In what used to be a fishing hole, a dozen top-name hotels stand, with pools and handsomely groomed gardens, private cabanas for romancing lovers who -- beverage in hand -- relax beneath forests of coconut palms. FANCY YACHTS  sway at anchor in the marina, and vacationers stroll the harbor's boardwalk, pausing to browse in boutiques, photograph the port's famous boy-sea horse sculpture, or sip a cool drink. Imagine the beaches of Puerto Vallarta a half century ago when famed director John Huston came to town.  A few sailboats, a yacht or two. Local cafes, small stores, nondescript hotels. But the director scouted the location for “The Night of the Iguana,” and brought Burton and Taylor down with him. The rest, as they say, is history. AN ENTICING  sculpture greets visitors. Inaugurated in 1976, the Caballito de Mar bronze is three meters tall, created by artist Rafael Zamarripa. This boy riding a sea horse has become Puerto Vallarta's symbol. Long before the movie industry recognized its charms, Puerto Vallarta was known by a rougher crowd. THE HOLLYWOOD   retinue followed pirates from Spanish galleons and pearl-diving locals, rough and tumble miners from California and the Baja, adventurers seeking beauty and peace in the Bay of Banderas.   Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor in Mexico. - -photo courtesy Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer      The lures were gushing bougainvillea and red-tiled roofs, natural river pools and jungles. Accustomed to luxury, Taylor ensconced herself in an imposing house she helped renovate and design, atop a hilltop with a lovely view of the Pacific ocean and the river.  When the legendary actress died in 2011, she was mourned in Puerto Vallarta, for she and Burton helped turn the sleepy Mexican town into thriving, world famous resort. Elizabeth Taylor helped design her hilltop home, still privately owned and enjoyed. She and Richard Burton stayed here and often frequented El Set, a cliff-top restaurant with stunning views.  It's also known for fine meals -- and the couple made it world famous.  It is still “the place” to go.   An array of crafts and some typical tourist shopping items in the park. PUERTO VALLARTA'S  history dates back to its 1851 founding.  The port was used for trading salt and minerals for the mines in San Sebastian and Cuale. It was founded by Don Guadalupe Sanchez, who named it Las Peñas de Santa Maria de Guadalupe. The name was eventually modified to Puerto de Las Peñas, or Port of the Rocks. The handle was again changed in 1918, when the town was declared the municipality of Puerto Vallarta, after governor Ignacio Luis Vallarta. Director and writer John Huston's bronze. WE TOASTED Mr. Vallarta at El Set, sampling the best margarita we’ve tasted south of the border, listening to live music and the splash of the waves hundreds of feet below. Burton made Puerto Vallarta famous -- and brought a following to El Set. Back in the '60s, much was written about Burton and Taylor and their tempestuous romancing and quarreling.  But their presence and the money and attention the film brought to the previously sleepy town put Puerto Vallarta on the map.  And Taylor’s notorious philanthropy and generosity improved the town’s economics, too.  So much did she do for the schools and hospitals, that the locals let her build a bridge over the river and up towards her home. Sand and rock art interests tourists and provides a living for locals. HUSTON, TOO , was beloved by the townspeople, and a striking bronze of him is mounted in the central part of the lovely Isla Rio Cuale, where tourists and locals mingle to shop, stroll and enjoy the river’s cooling breezes. The Huston bronze, reminiscent of Rodin's "The Thinker," was made in 1988 by Carlos Ramirez in tribute to the famous American film director. An MGM shot of Burton on set. TODAY'S PUERTO  Vallarta might not be recognized by the stars who made it famous 50 years ago. Many ex-patriots from Europe and the U.S. invested in the good life here, with unparalleled white sand beaches, world famous fishing and golf, and award-winning design. Condos start at $395k and go into the millions. Huston loved the landscape here – both at his beach hideaway, Las Caletas,  where he lived many years, and the nearby Sierra Madre region with Jalisco state’s oldest communities. That's where he filmed the famous Humphrey Bogart movie, “Treasure of the Sierra Madre.”   Cookie takes time to smell the flowers in Costa Rica. COMING SOON:   Costa Rica is a haven for bird lovers and sky walkers looking for monkeys, sloths and other exotic flora and fauna. Come explore the wonders of this beautiful Central American country which has little unemployment and no army! Enjoy a bird’s eye view from a sky bridge high above the rain forest. Remember to explore, learn and live and please share our website: www.whereiscookie.com We post Wednesdays and weekends.

Construction is not sophisticated in Guatemala, but old-fashioned thatching appears to be carefully done. LIFE UNFOLDS IN GUATEMALA WITH SIMPLICITY, COLOR, LOTS OF FISH AND A FAMOUS BIRD STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Arriving in Panajachel, tourists are met with craftswomen and venders.  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER RIGHTLY PROUD  of its critters and birds, Guatemala hosts more than 10 per cent of all registered species on planet Earth.   Handsome people, gorgeous lakes and forests and extraordinary handicrafts complement swimming, hiking and delightful cuisine -- fish, lobster and tasty spiced veggies -- make it appealing to tourists. Well heeled Americans and Europeans mix with yuppies from the British Isles and South America to ride horseback, frolic on the beaches, and enjoy spelunking in Guatemala's honeycombed caves.  Scuba divers come to hunt wrecks lost centuries ago in the Pacific's capricious waters. The Quetzal bird. Above, a typical meal in Guatemala features fresh fish and vegetables.  Below, a rower on Lake Atitlan. WE WERE struck by how happy the people seem. Cliched though it sounds, they seem content with little. We saw women rolling tortillas on street corners, cooking on simple charcoal grills for both families and tourists. We saw old men carving.  We saw workers wielding huge machetes, for crops are still harvested the old fashioned way, a nod to Guatemala's colonial past. School is not compulsory and many homes have no plumbing or electricity. THE   PEOPLE  are proud of their heritage and crafts. The fabled Maya flourished in the nearby Yucatan Peninsula and Guatemala for centuries. Their advanced civilization constructed grand cities, palaces and pyramids. The Maya were accomplished astronomers, artists, writers and mathematicians. Guatemala's world famous crafts pay tribute to their rich Mayan heritage and love of color. For mysterious reasons, the Maya society began its decline in the 10th century. Remnants of this extraordinary people live on in Guatemalan descendants. WE MET  some of them  in our time there, primarily in the port city of Puerto Quetzal and miles inland, the picturesque village of Panajachel. It is one of 20-plus tiny towns on Lake Atitlan, created in a volcanic crater.   IN FACT , three volcanos surround "Lago de Atitlan," one of the places where the national bird of Guatemala hides out.  The colorful Quetzal bird, after which the port is named, was sacred to the Mayans. Most children go to grade school, but only wealthy or middle-class kids have a chance for college. After years of Spanish rule, political turbulence, and a devastating 36-year civil war the government at last in 1996, signed a peace agreement with the leftist rebels. The conflict had left countless people dead and a million-plus refugees.  WHAT MORE  do we know about Guatemala?  We think of those brightly colored weavings and the compact indigenous people working hard for a living. But we naturally think of drugs, because of the country's proximity to Nicaragua, Honduras and El Salvador, where much of the Mexico-bound drugs are manufactured and passed on to the U.S. This was not denied by our multi-lingual guide, Roberto, on our way to Lake Atlitan. "But we are working hard to clean up this problem,” he said.  Still, in a country where unemployment is high and families are large – the people are  mostly Catholic – it is difficult to keep lucrative, illegal tradesmen out. Our guide believes his country has stabilized, but that infamous, drug-driven and corrupt neighbors may combine with civilian and military unrest to alter Guatemala's course from time to time. A breezy boat trip past volcanos with new friends: from left: Keller, Cookie, Inge and Tom.         Women in Guatemala are proud of their weavings, crafts and tortillas. WHILE STROLLING our mountain village, we were impressed with the peaceful nature of the people.  They  met us with fabrics and weavings as we boarded our boat, then followed us in their own boat, to the mountain village. THE CHILDREN  are learning the art of hawking.  “My name is Juanita. Come buy something from me,” one implored.  “I am Carmen.  My grandmother made this,” said another, showing her elaborately woven scarf.  (I made purchases from both girls because they reminded of my nieces, now in their 30s. As grade-schoolers and teens, they helped sell their father's pottery at craft fairs and art shows.) Puerto Vallarta offers some of Mexico's most attractive beaches and luxury hotels -- and a lively film history! COMING SOON:   Puerto Vallarta, or sandy port, caught the eye of Hollywood more than a half-century ago, when director John Houston scouted the perfect location for his film, “The Night of Iguana.”  Come with us to visit El Set, where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor dined, drank and caroused with a picture perfect view of the Pacific.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and tell your friends about us as we post Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Orchids throw out their fronds on a gorgeous tree in full bloom on the grounds of Pura Vida Gardens, Costa Rica. HIGHLY MOTIVATED COUNTRY RANKS EDUCATION HIGH, ATTRACTS EX-PATS FOR ITS NATURAL WONDERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Pura Vida Gardens offers this colorful cafe on a waterfall. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I WAS SO nervous my palms were sweating and my legs were shaky. But my coach and partner assured me everything was perfectly safe. I'd be fine. So I accepted the walking stick our guide offered and headed toward the first sky bridge. As I walked carefully across the swaying bridge, I saw glorious birds and listened to a toucan's glorious cry.   HOWLER MONKEYS screamed and century-old trees swayed and I watched parakeets take flight. Eco-tourists and bird watchers worldwide consider Costa Rica a mecca. Hikers begin the up and down hike to several sky bridges in Costa Rica. HORSEBACK  aficionados love it, too, for its trails through the enchanting Valley of the Monkeys. White-water rafters take to the Corobici River for thrills.  Hikers follow the edges of the largest crater in the world. And coffee lovers load up on bags of the world-famous Costa Rican coffee beans, maybe taking in a tour of one of the coffee mills and watching how it's processed. WE SAILED  into Puntarenas ("sandy point"), closest coastal town to the capital, San Jose, with its fine museums and shops. Costa Rica is beautiful year-round, but the main, non-rainy tourist season is November through April. We headed for the wilderness, past miles of gorgeous beaches, into the lushest tropical rainforests we've seen since the Amazon.  We were to see birds, monkeys and more. I'M AFRAID  of heights and suffer from vertigo. But the skywalk was fun.  Here we were on suspension bridges, walking over gorges and ravines.  Beyond the rainforest, we saw the coastline and nearby Tarcoles River. Costa Rica, bordered by Panama to the south and Nicaragua to the north, enjoys two bodies of water -- on the east coast, the Caribbean Sea and on the west, the Pacific Ocean. Costa Rica is a booming destination, with surfing, beach vacations and ecotourism. Visiting is easy; U.S. citizens need a valid passport and a return ticket. A bell pepper, perhaps?  No, it's a cashew! WHAT made us feel a pull to Costa Rica? American ex-pat, right, David Stannard, and guide, flank Cookie at Pura Vida; below left, a monkey frolics. First, the people are educated and school is compulsory, so Costa Rica feels more "first world" than third. Crime is virtually nil. Costa Rica has enjoyed interesting historical events, including a visit from Christopher Columbus.  Our country's own "discoverer" was so impressed with the colony that he lobbied, unsuccessfully, to be named its governor. The honor went to a rival. An iguana cries for lunch -- and moments later -- get papaya slices. The country had a civil war that led to the dissolution of the armed forces. TODAY,  Costa Rica is considered one of the most politically and economically stable of the Central American nations. Without an army, Costa Rica doesn't participate in wars or conflicts.  And it's a pleasure not to be confronted with heavily armed guards at every turn, as happens to us in many other parts of the world. A growing contingent of American and European ex-patriots is moving to Costa Rica, in search of cheap land and tranquil surroundings. Cookie and Keller near the end of the last sky bridge! We David and Cindy Stannard,  who invited us to their beautiful Pura Vida Gardens for a tour and lunch. HE HAS knocked around in the real estate business, living in LaJolla, Calif., then moving to this lovely corner of Costa Rica. His kitchen prepared a typical Costa Rican meal of rice and beans, barbecued chicken and fish, plantains and pasta salad.  We had enjoyed fruit earlier in the day – beautiful papaya, melon and the sweetest pineapple I’ve had outside of Hawaii's Molokai and Lanai. Since education is compulsory in C.R., ambition leads to accomplishment. In nearby Guatemala, youngsters are often recruited to help farm or  sell handicrafts and pulled from school after grade six. Young Costa Ricans with means and family backing travel to America or Europe for their educations, returning as doctors or other professionals. “We know how important education is,” said our guide. “It is a ticket to a better life.” Cartagena's sculptures and beach front are two draws. COMING UP: Continuing our eclectic gambol through the Americas, we dip into Cartagena, one of South America’s prettiest port cities and a stronghold of Spanish galleons for years.  Today it is a haven for sexy girls courted by handsome guys, high rise Hiltons and Hyatts, and an old town out of another century with horse drawn carts and women sashaying with baskets of fruit on their heads. Come explore, learn and live with us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com