Search Results

A Pacific bound container ship goes south through the Panama Canal, photographed from the balcony of our northbound ship. Pacific-Atlantic bound ships pass traffic going the opposite direction in wider parts of the river and Gatun Lake. Passage fees must be paid in advance and are thousands of dollars. TECHNOLOGY, WORLD COMMERCE CONVERGE IN A FASCINATING DAY AT SEA Lock doors open while our ship prepares to enter, towed in by  diesel powered "mules." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HOW MANY countries does it take to complete a $5.3 billion expansion of the wondrous Panama Canal? The answer might be, "more than four," because Spain, Italy, Belgium and Panama have not delivered so far. The expansion contract was lost to the U.S., whose bid was too high.  But the countries sharing the various sub-contracts have found their endeavors beset with problems.   A YEAR AGO , the project was shut down for a time when it ran out of money and floods further crippled the effort. It's back on track, with a revised budget of $7 million.  Korea is now involved, too. Our recent visit found the world's largest earth movers noisily back on the project, and estimates are that it will be done by December of 2015 or early 2016 at the latest. I wouldn't hold my breath. Because of the shape of the land, the canal runs north-south, not east-west. The intricate, massive addition will accommodate three times larger vessels and increase the daily numbers of ships and freighters in transit. Mira Flores Lock was completed in 1906. IN VISITING  with experts, we learned that continuous dredging is part of the scenario, because of water movement, rains and erosion. After transiting the locks aboard the Legend of the Seas, we wanted a look from land.  A close-up tour, arranged on board through Royal Caribbean International, picked us up at the docks near Colon and took us to a viewing tower three stories up. WE WATCHED , fascinated, as the lock system worked -- thanks to 50 million gallons of water a day running out of the mountains. Four new locks, made in France, await installation in the new canal. A reader of Saturday's part-one piece asked, "Do they alternate days of traffic going east and west?" First, the direction is north and south, even though it would seem that the oceans are on the east and west of the land bridge. And there are locks for two-way traffic.  In man-made Gatun Lake, we Atlantic-bound passengers saw ships coming towards us, going towards the Pacific we'd left earlier in the day. LARGE SHIPS use the canal during the day, entering in the morning and exiting toward evening. Ships going Pacific-Atlantic go north; those traveling from the Atlantic to the Pacific go south.  Small vessels cluster and wait night when enough traffic accumulates to make passage..... you don't get space in line until you pay. Our Royal Caribbean Legend of the Seas paid nearly $400,000. Years ago, aboard the venerable Queen Elizabeth II, we made international news as the largest ship at the time to transit the canal, with only inches to spare. WITH THE  new addition, ships three times larger will be able to transit.  Many of the new larger mega-ships are too large for the present locks. CASH ONLY  is paid to Panama for passage and our vessel's tab was $400k! (That's why this cruise is so expensive.) The canal and locks are 48 miles long and parts are replaced as needed without stopping traffic, a remarkable feat in this 100-year old undertaking. Canal traffic has only been stopped once, when drought in 2010 failed to supply adequate rain water.  Now, Gatun Lake's level is being raised one foot to store more water. Water pours into the lock as a "mule" reaches the top, helping the ship. "MULES" HELP  the ships through.  They still call the cars "mules" but nowadays they are diesel powered and hooked to the ship with cables. The creation of the Panama Canal took 27,000 lives -- mostly from malaria, with some casualties from explosions. The canal saves 8,000 miles and 71 days of sailing.  Last year nearly 15,000 ships, pleasure crafts and freighters made the remarkable journey.    A Guatemalan woman sells handmade shawls and scarves. COMING SOON : Continuing our wanderings of the coast of the Americas, our adventures take us to Guatemala, which means "land of trees."  We sample barbecue and purchase gorgeous hand-woven shawls, made by descendants of the Mayan people.  We say “gracias, no” to the man with the drug coat, a dealer’s version of the New York watch seller’s. Our mountain trek takes us through miles of coffee and rubber trees before we embark upon an hour-long boat ride on Lake Atitlan, created from a volcanic crater, to the village of Panajachel, one of 23 ancient villages attracting Guatemalan yuppies and adventuresome Europeans. Remember to explore, learn, live, and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

VISIT TO GRAND DAME SHIP REKINDLES DREAMS OF HER GLORY DAYS   The Queen Mary is aglow with lights and a special Diana Exhibit, along with her hotel and dining options. Parties are a Queen Mary tradition; these two "put on the Ritz." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IN MY DREAMS , I'm holding my grandmother's white-gloved hand as we enter the reception area of the Queen Mary.  It's the 1950s and I'm a little girl.  We're setting off on a glamorous  Atlantic crossing, then for foreign ports, elaborate dinners, strolls on the wide teak deck and lively music sessions in the salon. This anchor is part of the many displays in the Queen Mary's many rooms. I EXPLAIN  my long love of cruising on this  vivid recurring dream -- because I've cruised 102 times now.  I love everything about going to the sea in a luxury ship:  bon voyage parties followed by a leisurely Atlantic crossing,  elegantly served meals, en suite flowers, champagne chilling in a silver bucket, a string quartet serenading as we sip cocktails. RECENTLY  we partook of all that, admiring the waves and formally dressed clientele aboard the Queen Mary. Her grand crossing days are over. She's no longer navigating the seas as the world's most popular and prestigious ocean-liner.  But the Queen is still very much a royal part of liner lore, well worth a visit and overnight. WE SPENT a morning with the ship's nattily dressed Commodore, whose passion for the sea is apparent in his every comment and gesture. Beautifully attired in his dress whites, Commodore Everette Hoard stopped to sign memorabilia and programs for guests, to pose for photos and point out many of the ship's fascinating and historical items. IN ONE PART  of the ship, a huge mural of the royalty and movie stars who crossed on her extends across a large wall. Hollywood luminaries, diplomats, and wealthy fans of ocean liner elegance crossed the Atlantic on Queen Mary. Wind whipped the decks as Cookie toured the Queen Mary  with partner Keller and friends, Bob and Sue Hulbert. Commodore Everette Hoard guided them around.   David Niven loved her, as did Bob Hope and Clark Gable, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and the great Winston Churchill, after whom the ship's top restaurant is named. OUR ACCOMMODATING  Commodore took us touring, kindly including a stop at Winston's where he invited me to play the piano on which Cole Porter entertained during his happy crossings.  It is kept perfectly tuned, regularly played and is an enduring, musical symbol of the Queen's class, elegance and style. Nostalgia seekers will find plenty of vintage equipment to admire.  The Queen is also a dog-friendly hotel with several restaurants, an abundance of tours and venues, a spa, several pianos, and plenty of nostalgia. DURING OUR  three days aboard, we watched glorious Long Beach sunsets and sunrises from our stateroom and up on deck.  We delighted in couples dressed in nostalgic '30s and '40s costumes. The Queen is a well loved, iconic part of life in this port town; many guests dress in vintage clothes to enjoy her and she is beloved as a special-events venue. Winston's is the most elegant of three dining venues aboard Queen Mary. THE GRANDEUR began in spring of 1936, when the Queen Mary departed from Southampton, England embarking on her maiden voyage. The sold-out crossing was elegant and word quickly spread on both sides of the Atlantic --  about the five dining areas and glamorous lounges, pretty cocktail bars, huge swimming pools, grand ballroom, expansive promenades, even a squash court and small hospital. The Queen quickly came to represent a benchmark in transatlantic travel. Before jet travel, the rich and famous considered it the only civilized way to travel and she "seized the hearts and imaginations of the public on both sides of the Atlantic," according to the Commodore. Visitors are welcome to wander the decks, get close-up to the equipment, enjoy changing exhibits as well. For three years after her maiden voyage, the Queen Mary was the grandest ocean liner in the world but her greatest calling came during World War II, when she became "the grey ghost," helping win the war for the Allies. Winston's on the Queen Mary, a top restaurant named after the prime minister who helped  save England from the Nazis. When the Queen Mary docked in New York in September 1939, it was the last time she would carry civilian passengers for nearly eight years.    She was overhauled for the troops, painted a camouflaged grey color and stripped of her luxurious amenities. Dubbed the "Grey Ghost" because of her stealth and stark color, the Queen Mary was the largest and fastest troopship to sail, capable of transporting as many as 16,000 troops at 30 knots.  They slept and ate in shifts -- so large were their numbers.  Many believe the Queen and the troops she carried helped end the war. To book a tour or room: www.queenmary.longbeach.com Fun activity in Long Beach: www.aquariumofpacific.org COMING UP:  The Queen Mary sailed another 20 years as a passenger liner after her war service, and continues into the 21st Century at the age of nearly 80, as a delightful floating hotel with a world class restaurant, Winston's, named after a frequent guest, UK's popular prime minister Winston Churchill. Her teak desks are still beautiful and her bridge is kept shining. Commodore Everette Hoard sees that she is alive, well and continuing her proud legacy. Then we offer tips on renting a car abroad. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

The Pyramids of Guimar convinced famous Norwegian anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl of a connection between Tenerife's ancient Guanche people and the civilizations in Central America and Egypt. PYRAMIDS OF GUIMAR INTRIGUE -- ARE THEY CONNECTED TO OTHER IN DISTANT LANDS? STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The grounds of the Casa Charcona Museum contain nautical lore, sculpture, pottery copies, mummies and much more, as Cookie discovers.  This inhabitant of Tenerife is happy in his environs. LONG BEFORE  the coming of the Spanish, a curious and striking people inhabited the land of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. Although these people lived just off the coast of Africa, with its predominantly dark-skinned people, the original Tenerife inhabitants were blue-eyed and blonde. SO IT IS  interesting that a blue-eyed, blonde explorer named Thor Heyerdahl fell in love with Tenerife and her pyramids. The world famous explorer and anthropologist studied the Tenerife pyramids and people, and made Tenerife his permanent home after he sailed the world's seas. The famed Scandinavian established a ground-breaking Norwegian-Spanish project in the Canary Islands in 1990, chiefly to protect the newly identified step-pyramids. THE PYRAMIDS of Güímar are six rectangular pyramid-shaped, terraced structures, built from lava stone without the use of mortar. Like other of the world's mysterious pyramids, these attract speculation and create wonder. Is there a connection between their builders and other pyramid makers? Keller enjoys a sculpture in the Casa Charcona Museum. Heyerdahl became enthralled with this and the country's early inhabitants --  the Guanches. He spread the word about their artwork, religion, architecture and of course the pyramids, which he researched avidly, describing similarities to pyramids worldwide. Many scholars believe that blue-eyed hunter-gatherers roamed prehistoric Europe. Some ancient peoples in Spain 7,000 years ago had blue eyes and dark skin, while the Tenerife people were fair of skin tone. Heyerdahl compared pyramids from around the world. ALTHOUGH IT  is unknown for sure how they arrived on the islands, the ever curious Norwegian and others proved that the Guanches shared various cultural characteristics with the ancient Egyptians. Heyerdahl also researched and wrote about their building style, noting that it seems to have been replicated in South and Central America. TO HEYERDAHL  and others, though, the most stunning link between the Guanches and the Egyptians is the pyramids. The Guanche-built step pyramids use the same model as those found on a grander scale in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. Heyerdahl also noted that the Tenerife pyramids have an east-west alignment which indicates they had a religious purpose, associated with the rise and setting of the sun. The red dots mark the spots of the world's pyramids. CAREFULLY built stairways on the west side of each pyramid lead up to the summit, which has a flat platform covered with gravel. Scholars surmise these were used for sacrifice or other religious or ceremonial purposes. We know something of what the original Guanche looked like through the fortuitous existence of original mummies, on display in Pyramid in Chichen Itza out of Cancun.  The Tenerife pyramids resemble others, many believe.  the island's charming museum, Casa Chacona.  It  welcomes visitors with pottery copies of Heyerdahl's famed rafts and videos, photos and clippings of his journeys and private and public life along with the curiously beautiful mummies. The island also offers a wonderful dolphin park and glorious beaches -- clean, pretty and peaceful. COMING SOON:  Back stage theatrics shipboard, a famous Plantation named Oak Alley, renting a car abroad, and a visit to the the glorious Queen Mary, Winston Churchill's favorite ocean liner now a Long Beach hotel. Then we return to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and Ashland's lively cabaret. Tell your friends and remember to explore, learn and live.  Please check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Cadiz is known recently for shopping and surf, plus history! ANCIENT PORT CITY OFFERS GARDENS, CHURCHES, PARKS, PEACE, FLAMENCO PLUS GREAT SURFING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Cadiz Cathedral, "Catedral de Santa Cruz," offers spectacular views of the city and port from southern Spain. All roads point to Cadiz now, a hot new tourist spot. WHEN CHRISTOPHER  Columbus set forth from Europe, his last steps were taken in Cadiz. From this lovely and ancient city, he began his remarkable journey to the new world. For the curious traveler, there is much to recommend Cadiz.  The city comfortably blends recreation and commerce, religion and relaxation, gardens, castles and government buildings. Fishing, commerce and tourism provide Cádiz with its main sources of income. An array of ports attract business and pleasure welcomes barges, cruise ships and freighters to ports:  Cádiz, San Fernando, Puerto Real, Puerto de Santa María, Chiclana and Algeciras are all busy and bustling. A Cadiz local wears many colors on her wrist of spangles. THERE'S A NEW  slant to this old town, too.  Cadiz is becoming known to another kind of traveler -- the fly-in and cruise-in tourist. Long a port city attracting global travelers, this lively town has grown popular as a holiday destination among northern Europeans seeking good weather, long sandy beaches and fewer crowds than the nearby Costa del Sol or inland Seville, both busy and more crowded.  Thus, many hotels, restaurants, apartments and condos have been built. Surfing USA -- or Cadiz.  My partner Keller's ears perked up when he heard Cádiz is also popular with surfers, as it is one of the few places in Spain to offer fabulous weather much of the year, and high seductive surfing waves! Whitewashed buildings glisten in the sun with the cathedral nearby.  And for visitors who want to explore the province, the white villages dotting the inland mountains are picture perfect, and the city's offers many museums housing among other treasures, a valuable collection of the work of Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. ONE OF THE  most famous Baroque Spanish painters, Murillo died in Cadiz.  He lived and painted all over Spain and is often mentioned along with Velázquez and Zurbarán. Murillo is most famous for his religious paintings, however, he also painted many scenes involving women and children from his time. Murillo died in 1682 in Cadiz   and was buried, according to the wishes of Murillo himself, in the Church of Santa Cruz. However, this church disappeared during the following French invasion of Spain. Fortunately,   Well known composer Manuel de Falla was born in Cadiz and buried there although he died in 1946 in Argentina where he lived and composed many years. A year later, he was entombed in the cathedral at Cádiz.  Its crypts and hallowed halls house the spirits of several other great artists and many members of parliament. the church was rebuilt many years later over the top of the old site. Historians and art scholars believe Murillo’s remains still lie there. Tenerife boasts pyramids, believe it or not! COMING SOON:  You know about the pyramids in Egypt and Mexico, but did you know that there are pyramids in the Canary Islands? Check it out at www.whereiscookie  on Saturdays, Wednesdays and more.

The New Orleans skyline is bathed in light as Natchez departs the dock. Lively evening on the Mississippi harkens back to Mark Twain days and life on the river   "The Mississippi is well worth reading about. It is not a commonplace river, but on the contrary is in all ways remarkable. Considering the Missouri its main branch, it is the longest river in the world--four thousand three hundred miles."  From Mark Twain's "Life on the Mississippi" STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Natchez is one of only two steam-powered sternwheelers on the Mississippi. A STEAM  engine built in 1925, accompanied by a 32-note calliope and world-class Dixieland band beckon tourists aboard the Natchez in New Orleans for noisy fun. A true antique and treasure, the Natchez became one of only six true steam-powered sternwheelers playing the Mississippi when she was launched in 1975.  Reviving both the famous name Natchez (she is the ninth steamer to bear the moniker), she is now one of only two steam-powered sternwheelers plying the "Mighty Miss" today. SHE'S THE  real deal -- history and romance and an authentic river experience much like one from a Dukes of Dixieland heat up the dining and cocktail lounge on Natchez. century ago. We loved our evening on her -- for myriad reasons. Keller, a chief contractor, appreciated the mechanics, watching the engines work and chatting with two engineers, who were in constant communication with the pilot. Engineers at the controls have been with Natchez for years. I LOVED  the jazz upstairs in the dining room, where the Dukes of Dixieland cut loose with classic N'Awlins jazz tunes, including "St. James Infirmary" and many other classics, including "When the Saints Go Marching In." The Natchez rides smoothly across the waters and around the city and harbor, with a steering system taken entirely from another boat, the sternwheel Clairton.  Electric signals are transmitted down from the pilothouse to a receiver in the engine room, starting the hydraulic pumps which drive the ram and move the gilded tiller arm. THE PILOT turns the knob to the position he wants, which turns the corresponding dial in the engine room and sounds a bell.  The engineer moves his knob to the corresponding position. THIS STOPS  the bell and tells the pilot the engineer has received the signal, a kind of "steamboat style telegraph" system, time honored. The historic Natchez provides a tutorial on how she runs. Fans of steam power enjoy jazz, too! While all this is transpiring, guests listen to jazz, sip a cocktail, walk the decks to enjoy the New Orleans skyline, and enjoy a sumptuous Louisiana feast with barbecue, salads, shrimp and luscious desserts. For an evening, we stepped back in time. Did I just hear did the raucous just kick in? Cadiz with its imposing buildings is an ancient port. Twain called the steamboat ``as beautiful as a wedding cake, but without the complications.`` Decades later, we second the motion, savoring the beauty of the red paddle wheel, the moans of the steam whistle as symbols of a bygone time. COMING UP : We continue our travels, with a    look at lovely Cadiz, one of the oldest continuously used port cities in the world. Then back to the Americas for frolic, a fun look back stage on cruise ship Serenade of the Seas, and tips on renting a car for your next European venture. Check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller joins legions of tourists to take on the Leaning Tower    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER & COOKIE No single monument in the world has attracted the attention of the fabled leaning tower of Pisa. The magnificence of the monuments of the ancient square bears witness to its place in history. Japanese tourists lean in the foreground, pretending to put the tower upright. The world’s visitors flock here to be gaze, often listing slightly themselves – consciously and not –to admire the grand tower, begun by Bonanno Pisano in 1174. Its foundations were sinking from the beginning and it took nearly 200 years to complete her.  But that was finally accomplished with great fanfare in 1350, when Pisa was an important Italian port. In the early Middle Ages, Pisa was a much sought-after center of trade.  It became a Florentine city in 1405, and was from the beginning recognizable from afar for its remarkable tilting tower. Cruise ships dock in Livorno, and travelers hop aboard a bus or taxi to head for nearby Pisa. The area is a rich architectural center, well worth a visit if you’re in Tuscany. A delight of Romanesque architecture, the square is photographed on a daily basis by the masses:   Germans, Dutch, French, English, Americans and native Italians, who proudly describe its history, with plenty of hand gestures, of course. Trade, style and silt German poet Goethe once said that Tuscany looks like Italy should and the Romanesque cathedral with its celebrated tower makes Pisa more Italian than any other city. Pisa's Duomo is not quite as dramatic as the one in Florence, but equally interesting. In the 12th Century, when nearby Florence or Firenze was still caught in the upheaval of the Middle Ages, Pisa was at her apex.  Situated on the lovely Arno river and just 12 kilometers from the Ligurian Sea,  the town had close ties to ports in the Middle East and beyond.  But Pisa had a brief heyday,   because by 1300 the younger, more vital cities of the region began to pass her by and in the 15th Century, nature stole the bustling port by filling her harbor with silt. World War II caused an even greater blow to the picturesque city.  Extensive damage fortunately spared the centerpiece of Pisan culture, the spectacular Piazza de Duomo. That remains remarkably intact, incorporating both the European and Eastern architectural styles which caught the eyes of the well traveled Pisan merchants and sailors. Though one can no longer climb to the top, as I was allowed to do during earlier visits, it’s possible to get almost within touching distance of the “torre,” whose design has remained the same through numerous attempts to repair it. Scaffolding and immense cables are a part of today’s Pisa, as continuing and sometimes controversial preservation efforts continue. Pisa's Duomo has a Gothic look. A structural failure, it seems, was finally pinpointed to the third floor centuries ago, attributed to  shifting deep beneath the earth’s surface. Designer engineers and structural architects from all over the world have been solicited for their advice.  For the tower represents Pisa’s fundamental role in Italian culture, with its contributions to both a new era in sculpture and to the classic painting which would inspire many of Italy’s best and brightest:  Giotto and the artists of the Camposanto. New artistic culture is born During the first two centuries of the millenium, the Pisan republic played an important role in civilized life. Marble had not been widely used for several centuries, but the Pisan architects returned to it, drawn by its beauty and durability.  The square they envisioned was the most grandiose project conceived since the times of ancient Rome and Nicola Pisano and his son Giovanni would, through their remarkable sculptural accomplishment, make a name for themselves to parallel those of Dante and Petrarca in literature. Italy’s great artists of the following centuries would pay homage to the Pisanos as do we all when we admire the works of Brunelleschi, Donatello and Michelangelo. All that glitters: Pisa's Duomo ceiling is gold . As building progressed, hundreds of workers were assigned to tasks both back-breaking and delicate.  For the nearly  two centuries of construction, the square was the largest work site in Europe, and its effect was wide-ranging.  Architecture students traveled hundreds of miles to observe the then inventive techniques and merging of influences.  Marble was appropriated from Roman monuments.   Islamic designs were incorporated in the cathedral’s Duomo or dome.  Internal colonades rose up from intricate geometrical decorations on the floors and the sculptures of the Battistero or baptistry took on a decidedly Gothic look.  The cloister of the Camposanto, or cemetery, reflected these varied cultural influences and students and masters from throughout Europe must certainly have smiled with pride as they recognized  their own cultures’ unique contributions. The public unveiling of the square was a huge affair, with feasting, dancing and religious ceremony.  Builders and stone carvers were honored and toasted and the event was attended by noblemen and ladies from throughout the vineclad Tuscan hills.  Guests came from as near as the villages of Casastrada, Mura, Il Castagna, and neighboring Siena, famed for its Medieval spirit, as well as Italy’s larger sister cities of Rome, Venice and Florence. Eve's apple gets a new spin in this Tuscan poster. In the neighborhood If your travels take you to Tuscany, you’ll surely visit Florence, the favorite Italian city of many, including this reporter.  It is immensely welcoming, inviting for walkers and picture-postcard beautiful, surrounded by gentle hills and dotted with villas. Gorgeous fruits, nuts, candies await in Tuscany. The steep hills of the eastern and central part of the area are latticed by olive orchards and vineyards and the coast, especially near the inviting town of Grosseto, is breathtaking. Firenze was the birthplace of the Renaissance and the city has a dignity and grace that take the visitor back.  The harmony imbued by famous men survives the thousands of motor scooters and abundant cellular phones that have become a way of life in Italy of 2000. For here Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Dante, Donatello, Ghiberti and Galileo held court.  The Medicis came to power here, amassing a fortune of the world’s best art, and San Giovanni walked here, known to the faithful as Saint John the Baptist. The area is rich in history, dating back to the Etruscans.  Romans followed and the name, Florentia, was born.  Prophetically, it meant “destined to flourish” and flourish it did, through Goths, Byzantines, Lombards, clashing Guelphs and Ghibellines, warring blacks and white tribes. Florentia even survived the deadly Black Plague which took no sides and wiped out half the city in the 14th century. Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy a few days in Florence, and it’s a lovely drive to Siena from Pisa.  You’ll turn inland and weave past industrial towns and the art-filled village of San Miniato.  There, you’ll gaze from a castle above the town’s 12th Century cathedral.  You’ll be the king or queen of the whole Arno Valley as you take minor roads through unspoiled Tuscan hills and towns of medieval towers. Magnificent views abound from lookout posts built for prestige by noblemen. Stop for a glass of vino because you’re in Chianti country.  Dine on fish soup and fresh pasta, and stay at hotels converted from Renaissance palaces.    Stroll the charming piazzas and meditate in the cathedrals and palaces, surrounded by ancient and carefully preserved paintings. Remarkably, this part of Italy still has the atmosphere of  hundreds of years ago. The landscape is a patchwork of textures bathed in a beautiful soft, golden pink light that has attracted painters through the centuries.  English is spoken throughout this part of Italy, but even your basic Italian is appreciated.  A smile, a “prego” and a “grazie” go a long way towards international diplomacy. You need not be religious to cherish this part of the world.  Its magic will touch you regardless of your persuasion and you’ll almost see the knights on horseback and hear the trumpets blare. You’ll step back in time on the narrow streets, protected by silent walls to hold you however briefly in the richest and most beautiful part of Italy. If you go:   The two best ways to see this historic and well preserved section of Italy are by renting your own car, or by cruising into the nearby port of Livorno on a luxury liner then taking sidetrips.  Among the world’s best lines, Crystal Cruises offers a luxurious transit of this enticing part of the world, and our last Mediterranean visit on Crystal’s Serenity was a pampering and relaxing treat.  Livorno is on the west coast in the Ligurian sea about 80 minutes from Firenze. Pisa is nearby.  Many other more reasonably priced lines navigate the area, including Royal Caribbean and Holland America, which offer fine value for the dollar, which is increasing against the Euro daily. Remember to explore, learn and live.  And check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cousins gathered at High Chap memorial for mum's memorial  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By COSGRIFFES THE COSGRIFFES  are gathering again and the time is fast approaching.  The clan will convene in August to celebrate the brief but influential life of Eric Kenzo Otokawa.  We miss him terribly and send love to his mother, Misha, and to his siblings, Kenji Christopher and Kelly Midori, who will draw on their strength and our support as we pay homage to a young man beloved by us all.  The latest reports indicate that Amarylla and family are coming from the Bay Area, and Orion and boys and Kira from Portland.  Misha, Dave and Kenji are flying from Atlanta; Midori and her fiance Nick are flying out as well.  This is wonderful news.  We only wish that James and Kellie and Jim could make it from Northern Eric and his mother Misha: happy last August in California California.  The Montana contingent will be there --  Rick and Jane, Olivia and David, Patrick and Christena, Aurora and Rich and Connor and Elliana.  Several of our favorite cousins are coming too, including Nancy Ellen! This thrills us. Eric's memorial will be Aug. 11, Saturday, at High Chaparral, in the afternoon, probably around 4 p.m. Stay tuned. It will be followed by a family-friends dinner to which everyone is bringing favorite foods and specialties Eric liked.  (Uncle Corby's famous ribs and cousin Nancy's famous beans, for instance.)  While the clan is gathered, on Sunday, Aug. 12, we will convene in Columbus at the cemetery to briefly consecrate a new granite memorial on the four-generations plot. GRANDPA  Gus bought the eight plots soon after he and Gran moved to Stillwater County in 1916.  It is now complete, with the remains of Arthur Blount Pittendrigh and Christena Campbell Pittendrigh, gran's mother and father and our great-grandparents (and the great-great grandparents of the next generation, and great-great-great grandparents of their progeny! Wow.) We've lost two irreplaceable members, Robbie, front left, and  Eric, in aqua shirt top row. We will continue to live loving  and generous  lives and in so doing to honor them.   Also interred are Gustav Johan and Olive Blount Nystul; A. Robert and Donna Nystul, and, soon ashes of Richard E. and Ellen B. Cosgriffe, Peny and Robbie. (All seven Cosgriffe progeny's names are engraved on the African granite.) Keller and Cookie will fly to Montana July 27 to pick up Eric's bronze at the monument company, and Keller is installing it on the granite memorial at the family plot at High Chaparral.  Most people are arriving in Billings during the mid-week and there will be an informal gathering at High Chap Friday, Aug. 10 for those who can make it (all welcome -- check with Cookie e-mail about lodging and accommodation possibilities.) Several guests will be at High Chap and others at Grady's.  Some will be staying at the Big Yellow House in Absarokee with Misha's group.  We will endeavor to make everyone comfortable. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check out our posts on Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Nick and Nora are soon to be back in Montana, with Keller and me. Lovely day in LaJolla, 70 degrees and everything abloom. The foliage reminds me of Madeira and Funchal, lush and gorgeous. Gave Nick and Nora a bath and took them for a leisurely walk in the neighborhood..... I am beginning to think about the format for my nephew Eric's memorial in Montana on my birthday, Aug. 11, a day chosen by his mother, my sister Misha. She wants music and celebration, and I will do my utmost to make that happen. Hoping my brother's partner, Jane, will sing a song, and perhaps cousin Diane. I will try to write a poem for Eric, maybe in the style of rap, which Eric loved. I have his beautiful and spirited ode to sister Robbie.  I have not made any attempt to make this blog public in any way....... in fact, I don't think more than a handful know about it. Which is okay. Why don't I just use e-mail in that case?  I must ask Keller when he gets home from work:  remind me, why do I have a blog.  His, by the way, is about to go public: Kellerandkeller.com    ....... reminds me of writing in my diary when I was in grade-school.    Fun musical evening last night for the neighbors -- lovely people on both sides of the town home, and a very enjoyable couple down the street, the first folks to befriend us when we started looking here in January. We head back Friday to Montana.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTO By BRUCE KELLER It was not an AARP convention, but there were many grey heads and paunches aplenty at the “Happy Together” concert Wednesday night at Humphreys on Shelter Island, San Diego. My first impression was “who are all these old people?” I quickly realized I was one – a child of the 1960s, with my share of tie-dye and grow-your-own memories.  It was comforting and even a bit touching to join 1,400 aging hippies in a nostalgic three hours. We celebrated the music of the 1960s and 1970s, paying homage to our own innocence. Everyone was in a partying mood and the bars were busy as hits from yesteryear echoed across the bay and ricocheted off the boats in the adjacent marina.  Some of my fellow psychedelic pals apparently have their own yachts now. Far out. It was fun to see local star Gary Puckett take a bow and thank his home town for turning out. A top band played hits from Puckett’s Union Gap, the Buckinghams, Monkees and Turtles, with time travel back to the days of Peace Corps, JFK and “who’s your favorite Beatle?”  The evening’s finale featured a gathering of the ensemble on stage in a farewell to the young-at-heart audience. The happiness continued as we hummed our way to our cars, wondering where the last 40 years have gone.

"Play Misty for Me" -- and she did!     Cookie joined a jazz quintet to add sizzle to a sultry summer night at the Cowboy Bar in Fishtail, Montana.  Cookster's partner Bruce Keller, of San Diego,  photographed the evening with pictures of the Art Hines band jazzing it up with a way-cool evening of wonderfully arranged jazz classics. Trumpet, tenor sax, guitar, percussion and piano -- plus Cookie.  Here she is joining the talent to solo in "Misty," which she first played at a high school band concert in 1966.

Robbie helped choreograph several European trips with mum     “I’m home,” she cried, lifting her hands heavenward. “I feel their spirits.” Then she wept.  My sister and I looked at one another, blinking back our own tears.  Then we hugged mum and all of us cried. I remembered watching “The Wizard of Oz” as a five-year-old, with my mother at my side. Near the end, when Dorothy wakes up safely back in Kansas, her auntie and uncle at her side and the scarecrow and his pals turned back to farm hands, my mother wept. “Why are you crying, mummy?” I asked.  “Because I’m so happy.  You’ll understand some day.”  She was right. Happiness and sorrow, like the comic and tragic masks, are merely different takes on the same thing.  Cookie and mummy at the Folies I’d been to Ireland a half-dozen times before, but seeing it through my mother’s eyes was like seeing it anew.  She made me feel connected to the country in a way I had never felt before.  The Blarney Stone took on new meaning.  The potato famine felt real.  When she told me the story of  her great grandmother’s departure, I felt the face of the Emerald Isle staring at me. “They had a wake for her,” she said, “because they knew she wouldn’t be coming back. Can you imagine their sadness and bravery?” We had put down anchor in Kolb, where my great, great-grandmother, Molly Wilson, had left her family for America before the Century’s turn.  She’d taken the train from Cork, on a tiny track which we found.  Again, my mother wept.  But it wasn’t all weeping, not by any means.  My 20 days in Europe with my mother and youngest sister rank high on my list of world adventures.  Not because of the exotic nature of  the ports, all of which I’d visited for extended periods, but because of the unique nature of the trip. Life is shaped by defining moments and we don’t always know when they.  Looking back, we realize the importance.  Somehow, I had felt the significance of this trip since we first started planning. It began as a challenge.  Mum had taken me on trips as a little girl.  Indeed, I owe much of my love of travel, music and theater to her and her mother for the curiosity they instilled in me as a toddler.  She’d hinted broadly for 20 years, mentioning on each of my forays how she’s always wanted to go to Blank or return to Blank one last time.  So I’d challenged my mother with part bribe, part enticement.  She knew she needed to lose weight, with two leaky heart valves, one seriously compromised. “You lose the weight and we’ll go to Europe,” I said in the summer of 1998.  By the summer of 1999, she’d lost 45 pounds, through diet and exercise and the European Enticement Plan. The game was afoot. By summer of 1999, she’d lost another 40.  I sent her a stack of brochures and pamphlets and she picked the trip. A Royal occasion The Princess 2000 cruise brochure was her favorite.  She’d chosen the Western Europe tour on page 61, which sailed on the Royal Princess from Dover Aug. 22 – just a few days after my birthday, and 5 days before hers. “We’ll celebrate together,” she said, overjoyed that we’d be sailing the Irish sea on her actual Aug. 27 anniversary. My sister, Robbie, and I had been planning the complex logistics of such a journey for months.  Three busy people, three departure cities, dozens of planes, boats and trains and tour buses.  The cruise concept, we’d decided, was ideal because it would plant us in one place for a couple weeks and we could add sidetrips before and after.  Paris and London were must-sees for mummy, and she wanted to experience the Eurostar Channel Tunnel.  So I suggested we fly into London, catch our breaths at my favorite hotel, the Dorchester, then “Chunnel” to Paris for 3 days.  After that, we’d “Chunnel” back to England, departing at Ashford, then taking a taxi to our embarkation point of Dover. Mum had chosen the Princess for Western Europe because it visited places she’d long wanted to see:  Normandy, where the Allies clawed their way ashore on D-Day.  She, after all, remembered the invasion and had friends among the casualties. The Irish stops – to Cork and Dublin with other sidetrips – had obvious appeal, with her Irish heritage. She wanted to walk the Georgian squares and have lunch in a pub.  Edinburgh with its castle and romance intrigued her She’d taken us to see Maggie Smith in “The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie” years ago, and knew there were Scotsmen, too, in our lineage.  She wanted to ride the Royal Mile to Holyrood Castle. Hamburg fascinated her with its lovely bridges and churches.  But mostly, she knew of its proximity to Berlin and wanted to see the fallen wall and stand beneath Brandenburg Gate. My sister, Robbie, better with “enforcement” than I am, had cautioned mum about the importance of “less is more” in packing, warning her that we’d have to schlep our own bags at certain points. “She promised she’d pack light.  We went through her cruise wardrobe, and she knows she has to leave room for gifts,” Robbie said.  Sounded good to me. And so 20 pounds of paperwork later --  faxes, xeroxes, maps, tickets, reservations in hand – we left our trio of cities – Portland, Sacramento and Billings – to link in Salt Lake, there to continue onward non-stop to Cincinatti, and “across the pond” to Gatwick. Mum was elated when I met her at her gate.  Despite my cautioning, she’d packed everything she owned, was one bag over her allotment and had a bulging carry-on, and an checked extra bag which she sheepishly defended. Ah, well, onward. And, lest you wonder, “How did it go?” I’ll give you a hint up front. Fabulously.  It had a rough moment or two – adult “children” and their parents are bound to have a moment or two.  But it was glorious and the memories are indelible.  I wouldn’t trade them for anything.   Baggage overboard and improv As the trip evolved, sis and I slyly unloaded unnecessary items from mum’s bags when she wasn’t looking. We had too.  And mum knew we were doing it, so in the interest of diplomacy, looked the other way.  She knew she had way too many panty hose, dozens of plastic bags and tissues enough for the entire ship. Once we were able to comfortably lift her bags and ours, we were happy, and we had that all sorted out by the time we arrived at the Dorchester in London.  I’d sprung for first-class air tickets on Delta, so we arrived rested and mum was delighted with the personal video on the way over.  She charmed the flight attendants, heard her birthday announced by the captain -- with a champagne toast from her fellow passengers --  and actually got a bit of rest, so she was ready to explore London. Our first adventure was a boat trip on the Thames, and she loved going under the Tower Bridge, and hearing the commentary of wars, beheadings and ransom.  The woman who took me to my first Shakespeare play was thrilled to see the restored Old Globe Theater, and proud that a fellow American, Sam Wanamaker, had a huge hand in it.  A genial cabbie took us on an extended driving tour of the city so she could tip her hat to No. 10 Downing Street, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace and other London landmarks. We dined on fish and chips the first night, her choice, and saw a fabulous production of  “Fosse” so our first full day was a hit. Then on to Waterloo Station and the Chunnel, a first-class experience we all agreed, and an easy three hours to Paris, another city on her bucket list. That night, we cruised the Seine, admired the Eifel Tower aglow in thousands of lights, and listened to a jazz trio play.  She sang along with “La Vie En Rose,” and I remembered the Edith Piaf records she’d played us as kids.  The next day, we lazed about in our rooms at the Westminster, strolled up the Rue de la Paix to the Opera House, and admired the architecture and the perfect weather. The second night found us at the most authentic nightclub Paris has to offer.  “Paradise Latin” is an old-style revue, complete with can-can and acrobats, comedy and magic, scantily dressed girls and plenty of risque humor.  “Very Parisian,” pronounced my mother. “I’m having so much fun.” My college French was useful and mother was a perfect subject, loving everything, thanking people profusely.  The French loved my mother, and having her along opened doors.  People were touched that we had actually gotten it together to take mum to Europe – something lots of families talk about, but few seem to accomplish. She had many great moments abroad.  In Ireland, we visited a pub, the day before her birthday, and she chatted with an Irish family on holiday, celebrating their daughter’s 25 th  birthday. She did a little can-can flourish the night we went to the Paris revue, bought herself some shamrock socks in Dublin, left a red rose at Normandy, walked under the Brandenburg Gate and waved at the hookers in the famous Amsterdam red-light windows. Her enthusiasm made me realize I was becoming a bit jaded as a traveler, taking too much for granted.  She reveled at the flowers in Hyde Park, at the gardens of Cornwall, at the vastness of the museums and the splendor of their holdings. She loved the brightly painted doors of Dublin, a protest of “her” people who wouldn’t be told to paint their doors black. Every moment of that trip, large and small, lingers in my memory, bright as the sunlight that first morning on the Irish sea as Cobn came into sight.  It was an odyssey and I’m the richer for it. Now, a dozen years later on the anniversary of our sail-out, both my mother's and baby sister's remains rest in small Waterford vessels -- intended for sugar cubes and purchased on that memorable, sweet trip.

Ann and Jack Mowell are proud of their rescue and renaming of Montana Jack's, a popular eatery in the little town of Dean, Montana. Rural restaurant boasts ambiance, music, tasty fare, fine service in a scenic Montana setting STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YEARS AGO , when I first bought a country home in the rugged Beartooth Mountains of Montana, an upscale restaurant was the last luxury I expected within a reasonable drive. Entrepreneur Jack Mowell has made me one happy girl. The setting for Mt. Jack's is the beautiful Beartooth Range. The savvy world traveler, inventor and international businessman came to my neck of the woods, building a lovely country home in Stillwater County. It's one of several places Mowell and his photographer wife Ann call home. They also spend time in Switzerland, Costa Rica and Tallahassee, Florida. SO HOW  did he come to invest in Jack's? "Well, we wanted a decent place to have a nice dinner, within a reasonable driving distance," Mowell says. So he bought a struggling restaurant in the tiny town of Dean, Montana, and set out to make it an appealing place for lunch, dinner or cocktails,  Montana Jack's offers games and spectacular scenery, above, and below, the writer entertains for a Jack's gathering. First, he hired an astute general manager.  The amiable and efficient Gena Burghoff runs the place, which Mowell renamed after himself:  "Montana Jack's Bar and Grill." The attractive Burghoff and her husband, Chrisopher Lockhart, a talented chef, have turned the place into a popular eatery, with a wine list equaling any in the state, and a menu designed to please both town and country palates. THE GENIUS  of the well thought out menu at Jack's is that it is not huge.  But it is varied and tasty and features an enticing array of the best available produce, herbs and meats. Diners can tuck into a series of pretty salads and appetizers, or go straight for the meat and potatoes, with many enticing variations in between for small, large and medium appetites. Fourth of July fun includes  The waitresses and bar tenders have been well trained to be attentive, friendly and professional, on a par with any "big city" operation. What a treat to find them -- and what they serve -- in this scenic rural get-away. JACK'S ARTISTIC wife, Ann, helped decorate the place, with attractive curtains and flowers and some eye-catching pieces of art.  She also had the piano tuned (she is   a gifted musician), cleaned the beautiful stone fireplace, and redesigned the interior of the pretty wooden building so that the bar is opposite the kitchen, and the restaurant space flows nicely from the kitchen. Gena Burghoff and Christopher Lockart at Mt. Jack's. She is general manager and he is chief chef. The homemade soups are always luscious, including squash seasoned with fennel and other herbs, and the house and Caesar salads are beautifully presented. Tempura fried green beans are an interesting and flavorful starter, along with my favorite Korean short ribs -- spicy with scallions and a sweet-sour marinade. Scallops, prawns and other salads are also available, and Jack's is proud of its gluten-free and vegetarian options for every course, so just ask. MAIN COURSE  options include Rocky Mountain trout, for $24, with glazed vegetables, capers and a basil oil.  The chicken, at $23, is served with a tangy cucumber, feta and kalamata olive and pesto salad.  The surf and turf, at $34, is a flavorful New York steak with scallops and shrimp, and there's always a vegetarian pasta, very popular, to which one may  add shrimp. Jack's is, as befitting a Montana bistro, a meat-eater's paradise, with Well behaved dogs, including this proud lab, are welcome at Jack's. a ribeye, buffalo t-bone, pork chop and steak frites offered. The meats are lean, beautifully coked and served with various vegetables and starch offerings, including oven-roasted tomato, corn puree, glazed carrots, crisp green beans, and a wonderful creamy blue cheese potato dish cooked in cast iron. JACK'S POLENTA  is flavored with that same rich and tasty blue cheese.  Teri Udey makes the fabulous pastries, including flavorful cakes and a delightful creme brule. The desserts change daily! A kids' menu offers trout, cheeseburgers, chicken or shrimp with fries or green beans, for a reasonable $7.  (Plus color crayons and a Fireworks bring out the crowds on July Fourth. little menu to decorate.) Locals and summer people gather for supper and drinks at Jack's. At right, a children's menu and young Olivia's color crayon efforts. The wines and beers number several dozen, with micro brews from throughout the region and wines from both American vineyards, Europe and New Zealand. Live music options at Jack's are fun, too.  In the interest of full disclosure, the writer (yes, Cookie!) plays piano at Jack's from time to time.  She's booked a couple times in September and October, including Saturday night, Sept. 26, so check out Jack's website for more on that. Sunday brunch at Jack's is a popular tradition, often with live music. Other Jack's regulars include guitarist and ballad singer, Norrine the Outlaw Queen, who always brings out a crowd with her mix of country, swing and old-time western tunes.  Jack's also has a wonderful patio, where diners spill over on pleasant summer evenings and special events such as the Fourth of July fireworks. You'll find doggies are welcome, and you might learn a rope trick or two. Fundraising endeavors such as Stillwater Protective Association use Jack's. Don't miss an opportunity to enjoy Jack's pleasures.  You won't be sorry. Call 406 328-4110 or go to www.mtjacks.com for updates and live music listings.  And you may check the place out on Facebook.                                                                                                                           COMING SOON:   Flower power, Montana style. Montana's apple harvest and sunflowers. Coming soon. And the Alberta Bair Theater in Billings has a proud history, dating back 80-plus years as a performing arts center, the largest in the northern Rockies. Read how it was saved from destruction and went on to flourish! WE'RE  also "north to Alaska" with glaciers, whales and trains. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com