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- Gaudi's genius is on showy display in masterful Barcelona architecture
Architect's imagination and reverence for nature highlight his 'La Pedrera,' in Barcelona STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a moment of reflection outside Gaudi's Casa Mila, or "La Pedrera." The curved "attic" of Casa Mila is a museum on its own, with drawings, exhibits and models showing the profound influence nature had on Gaudi's life's work. WHEN THE brilliant architect Antoni Gaudi was struck by a tram on a pleasant June morning in 1926, he had no identification on his body. He rested unknown in a morgue for several days while officials tried to identify him. The great man was walking to his daily confessional at a nearby church when tragedy befell him. When it was discovered that he was an internationally known architect -- one of the city's proudest sons -- he was mourned for weeks. Today, he is still celebrated as a genius. His work is acclaimed for its grace, originality and connection to nature, evident in its nods to the sea and its creatures, and to birds, flowers, trees, and all living things. WE SPENT a recent week marveling at Gaudi's wondrous accomplishments. He viewed the natural world as perfect, a creation from which he drew his inspiration. This connection is visible in all his work but critics believe it is most present in his masterpiece, Barcelona's famous Sagrada Familia. The cathedral has been in constant development since its foundation was laid in 1883. Its completion -- many times delayed -- is now scheduled for 2026, on the 100th anniversary of the great artist's death. MUCH OF Gaudí's career was occupied with the construction of the Sagrada Família, his "over the top" cathedral where pineapples and the Virgin Mary peacefully coexist. It's difficult to name a favorite of Gaudi's magnificent buildings. Tourists flock to his famous Sagrada, but grand as it is, it is not our favorite of his works. We've spent several relaxing afternoons at his fanciful Park Güell, and at the better part of a day each at two stunning homes he designed in downtown Barcelona: Casa Milá and Casa Batlló, an important pair of modernist buildings. Looking to the sky, as he often way, Antoni Gaudi celebrated light and nature in his magnificent open-air view skyward. This sixth visit to Barcelona, we concentrated on Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera, which means "stone quarry" and celebrates Gaudi's Catalan heritage and love of landscape. Known today as the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism, Gaudí is honored for his individuality and his unique style. Most of his most famous creations are in Barcelona, one of the reasons we return so often. Nearby Casa Batllo's roof is a fanciful place, representing scales on a dragon's back. Above, a storage closet in La Pedrera gives insight into the life of a wealthy family in Barcelona nearly a century ago. At right, the life of Gaudi is shared in books in many languages, with t-shirts and art for sale, too. Some think the shapes of Gaudi's top floor art in Casa Mila represent the scales of lizards or creatures of the sea, serpents or mythical beings. LA PEDRERA - - meaning “the stone quarry” because of its unusual rough-hewn appearance, is more commonly called Casa Milá and is one of Barcelona’s most popular modernist buildings. UNESCO recognized it as a World Heritage site in 1984. Built between 1906 and 1912, the magical structure came to life when clients gave him a limitless budget and reign to do something "wonderful and different." It housed several apartments and was Gaudí’s last private residential design. Many consider it the most imaginative house in the history of architecture, one which continues to influence architects today. It is truly more a sculpture than a building. The façade is a varied and harmonious mass of undulating stone that, along with forged iron balconies, explores the irregularities of the natural world. Other Spanish artists gained fame in their experimental work, too. MANY PEOPLE wonder if Gaudi and Salvador Dali were friends, and if they endorsed one another's work. The much older Gaudi was born in 1852 and Dali was born in 1904. One wonders, then, if either man knew Picasso, born in 1881, between the two other famed artists. The rooftop of Casa Mila. While Gaudí and Dali were buddies, often complimenting each other's work, Picasso and Gaudí did not see eye to eye. Both made art their life's work, but while Gaudi didn't criticize fellow artists and visionaries, Picasso spent a lot of time dissing the Sagrada Família, Gaudí's magnum opus. Gaudi didn't return the barbs, remaining a man of deep faith, honoring the credo of tolerance and forgiveness. He was in fact on his way to mass, his daily ritual, when he was struck by the tram. Only when his housekeeper reported him missing did officials figure out who he was. La Pedrera was fashioned into several apartments by Gaudi, and is now used for fundraisers and as a museum. Gaudi's architecture is distinctive in its use of curves inspired by his view of nature. GAUDI'S LIFE'S work is a celebration of nature and the natural world. The only woman he loved, historians tell us, did not return his affections. (She was a divorced teacher whom he met during one of his early projects.) Much has been written about his art -- but there isn't much to tell about his personal life since he remained single and devoted his life to his art and private commissions. barcelonaturisme.com visitbarcelona.com Accomplished actor John Rubinstein endows his character, Dwight D. Eisenhower, with wit, intelligence and confidence in a stellar performance beautifully directed by Peter Ellenstein. BEST BET: A world premier in an intimate Los Angeles theater offers play lovers an engaging immersion in history via a close encounter with our 34th President. "Eisenhower: This Piece of Ground" is Richard Hellesen's fascinating opus about a war hero turned world leader. Tony award winning actor John Rubinstein endows Ike with humanity, humor and intelligence in this captivating one-man production at Hudson's MainStage Theatre. Peter Ellenstein directs this graceful, amusing and informative immersion which explains why the five-star general is now regarded as a great president. More info: www.onstage411.com/eisenhower A Brazilian guide in Porto, Portugal, took us around the city to its bridges, museums, eateries and special unknown corners. Tune in next week for "free tours" tips. UP NEXT : Free tours. From the far north of Europe to the southern reaches of Spain's Canary Islands, free tours are becoming the rage. Many cities around the world now offer no-fee walking and sightseeing tours. The trend of ‘'free'’ walking tours began in Berlin in 2004 and has spread to over 40 cities around the world, including nearly every major tourist destination in Europe. We give pointers on finding them, and suggestions for tipping the well informed guides, who rely on and deserve generous gratuities. They live on our tips. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for fresh spins on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Cowboy painter C.M. Russell - lousy student had a vision. His savvy wife ran the business while he became a famous western artist
The studio of famed western artist Charles Marion Russell is much as he left it and is part of the nationally known museum named after the man who lived from 1864 to1926. Known as one of America’s greatest artists, he lived the life he captured on canvas, creating a fine historical record of Western cultures, landscapes, and wildlife. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" FAMED WESTERN artist Charlie Russell was a lousy student with a talent for drawing. Born in St. Louis, he didn't like school. At not quite 16 years, he convinced his parents to let him leave formal education to set out on his own for Montana. In 1880, in the wide open spaces of Big Sky Country, he worked as a sheepherder and didn't like that much, either. But the man who would become one of the world's most famous western artists had a vision. Luck played a part, too, in the people he met, places he landed. Charlie Russell's paintings range from elegant landscapes to comical observations. He painted and sketched more than 2,000 works in his lifetime. His artwork is acclaimed for its attention to detail and depiction of life as it was in the early days of the west's settlement. Painting, drawing, often trading sketches for room and board and drinks at the bar, Russell gradually made a name for himself and eventually exhibited widely in the U.S. and Europe. His success is due in great part to his business savvy wife, Nancy Cooper Russell, who is given proper credit for her role in his fame at the C.M. Russell Museum in Great Falls. They met in 1895 at a dinner party at the home of one of Charlie's friends. Nancy was the live-in housekeeper. She caught Charlie's eye. They courted and were married the next year. The artist cultivated friendships with native Americans, and captured their strength, elegance and connection to the earth. The museum has an international reputation for its 3,000-plus pieces of Western art in a complex covering an entire city block. Great Falls is a pretty, mid-sized town -- around 60,000 people -- nestled between mountain ranges, rivers and wilderness areas. Most visitors spend a couple days and there are hotels and restaurants for most budgets. The home and studio of famed western artist C.M. Russell is visited by thousands of tourists each year. Here, Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers tour. The museum doesn't feel overwhelming despite its breadth. It includes an impressive 16 exhibition galleries, educational programming spaces, a research center and a lovely outdoor sculpture garden. A favorite of visitors is Russell's fully-restored home and studio. What strikes the viewer of his art is his eye for a vast country in transition, with all its virtues, and vanities. N ear destruction of the bison, racism, ignorance and intrusion of the white man into nature and native life are all astutely documented. Culture, landscape and wildlife all take a turn and often mingle in his detailed paintings. Charlie Russell and his wife, Nancy, made a successful team. She understood the business end of the partnership. He was happy to be the artist. THE HOME HAS a charm unique to the west, with a glimpse into the life of the family. The studio is charming, with Charlie's sketches, personal effects and architectural nuances. It's a studio that looks loved and lived in, a National Historic Landmark, where he lived and created for 24 years alongside his astute wife and business partner Nancy Cooper Russell. Plan to spend at least three hours in this treasure of the Treasure State. More information or to visit: cmrussell.org ***************************************************** Seeing Legoland or Disneyland, a park, a new hotel, a museum, with children gives adults a new perspective. Here, Cookie in green, with her niece Amarylla, and her two kids, Peny and James. UP NEXT : If you haven't traveled with a youngster, consider it! Take a niece or nephew, grandchild or favorite little person with you on a day outing or a long trip. We often take part of a trip with our family, and find it enriching and eye-opening. It enhances a journey -- long or short. You'll likely plan your time better and make use of resources you might not consider without another generation or two along. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on family, performance, the arts, nature and more.
- San Diego Maritime Museum offers ships, history, views, harbor tour
Ahoy, maties! A re-enactor tells tales of a sailor's life, impersonating explorer Juan Cabrillo, aboard San Salvador at Maritime Museum of San Diego. GO DOWN TO THE SEA IN SHIPS AT A WORLD CLASS CALIFORNIA MUSEUM Christene "Cookie" Meyers and her brother Rick Cosgriffe aboard Pilot, which takes visitors on a fun harbor tour. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU WANT a taste of the sea, with the vessels which explored the world, you won't find a better place to indulge your sailor side than the San Diego Maritime Museum. The collection of boats, on San Diego's waterfront, is a treasure trove of all things nautical. The museum's enthusiastic volunteer force has spent thousands of hours developing a rare collection of vessels. So expansive and well curated is its collection that the facility enjoys a worldwide reputation. Named one of the worldwide top three maritime museums, this one needs to be on your bucket list! Bruce Keller, lifelong sailor, and his first mate, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, delight in coming aboard Star of India. Moored along the waterfront on the Embarcadero, it is one of the delights of the city. The museum sports more than a dozen boats and ships and a nicely researched and well curated array of nautical paraphernalia in a traditional indoor museum. Then outdoors, there's action and entertainment as "pirates" stroll and repairmen do their endless work. San Diego's fine staff and volunteers are constantly restoring, maintaining and operating these historic vessels to insure that generations to come learn and enjoy. WE'VE MADE two visits in the last month -- showing off the wonders to family from Montana and friends from England. Both sets of visitors were impressed with the beautifully maintained collection of historic ships, including the world’s oldest active ship, the majestic Star of India. Venturing onto some of these ships and exhibits is part of the admission, and tactually stepping inside the vessels is the best way to actually understand the important role ships played in the settling of the world -- not just California. A handsome view of San Diego awaits in the 45-minute tour aboard Pilot, built in 1914, after exploring the museum. We always head first for Star of India, built in 1863. This stately ship -- aptly named -- is the oldest active merchant sailing ship in the world. The museum takes her out on fundraisers from time to time, and we enjoyed a sail on her many years ago -- fingers crossed for an encore as plans are announced. We took our British friends aboard the Star, with its beautiful wooden decks and English-related stories from her sailing days of yore. Star of India began life during the Civil War, in November of 1863. and her first voyages took her to India where she helped supply to England badly needed jute -- cotton being unavailable from the U.S. because of the war. All aboard! The ferry Berkeley has many lovely appointments, including stained glass windows, a beautiful bar, and nicely done displays of marine history. THE FERRY Berkeley is another treat, the first ship you'll enter after you leave the ticket booth. It's full of lore from those who spent time aboard this beautifully restored ferry, brought from the Bay Area. Among Berkeley's surprises: a vintage upright piano, lovingly cared for and donated by a local family. A painter works on a wall inside the 1898 ferry, Berkeley, which was moved from the Bay Area. We enjoyed a chocolate festival aboard the gorgeous ferryboat Berkeley on one visit. Another time, we toured the Dolphin submarine (interesting for its design but too claustrophobic for this reporter), watched repairmen working on the tall ship Star of India, and the HMS Surprise, replica of a sturdy British frigate. She has starred in several films, including one of the "Pirates of the Caribbean" series and "Master and Commander." DON'T FORGET the Californian, available for an actual sailing. Built in 1984, she is crafted in the style of the famous cutters which patrolled California's coast during the 1849 era gold rush. Going aboard her is a real sailing adventure, an additional ticket. My sailor beau, child of the sea since birth, encouraged our Californian's sail, a four-hour journey aboard the ship he's admired since it was built. I was thoroughly entertained -- as close as I'll get to "going down to the sea in ships." Fortunately, we went "down" in the best sense of the word: out into the Pacific and safely back. Cookie found the submarine claustrophobic . Others love it. FOR THIS reporter-sailor -- with hundreds of hours on small sailing vessels and more than 125 journeys aboard cruise ships -- a visit to San Diego's Maritime Museum feels like the real sailing deal. We highly endorse a day of touring this gem. Bruce Keller loves to talk about sailing, and major films shot at his hometown San Diego's fine Maritime Museum. BESIDES THE schooner Californian and historic Star of India, this world class museum offers other vessels to climb aboard or sail at specific times. The San Salvador is a replica of a 1542 Spanish Galleon like the first European vessel to reach America's west coast. The Californian goes out on weekly, delightful sails which we've enjoyed and will be writing about again. She's a gorgeous, 145-foot long vessel and the state's official tall ship, a must-do sail for anyone grounded, like my partner, in maritime history and life on the water. Although built fairly recently, in 1984, she is designed in the style of the famous cutters which patrolled California's coast during the 1849 era gold rush. If you have a sailor in the family, a pair of tickets to the museum, or a Saturday sail on the Californian would be a wonderful gift. More information: www.sdmaritime.org ; midway.org ******************************************************************************************** Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers explore aircraft on the USS Midway Museum downtown San Diego . That story is next up. UP NEXT : While we're in the neighborhood, the USS Midway Museum is right down the waterfront of San Diego. The enormous, historical naval aircraft carrier museum is also in downtown San Diego, at Navy Pier. The aircraft carrier has a proud history -- in the Gulf War and other conflicts -- and is worth a day's visit. way museum consists of the aircraft carrier Midway. The ship houses an extensive collection of aircraft, many of which were built in Southern California. It also has informative and fascinating tours, narrations, exhibits and an impressive outreach and education program which extends into the community and schools. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, theater, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- No place like London for mixing new and old: history, food, theater, architecture, excitement
London's skyline is a striking commentary on architectural evolution. This street scene illustrates the blend of history and innovation. With dozens of medieval landmarks like the Tower of London, there are beautiful modern buildings such as The Shard, with 26 stories, dozens of restaurants, residential living and a five-star hotel. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" "THERE"S NO PLACE like London." That a line sung by a young sailor named Anthony Hope as he marvels at London in Stephen Sondheim's brilliant musical, "Sweeney Todd." It's a line we utter each time we visit this exciting city of nine million. We, too, are enamored. With a rich history dating back centuries and its exciting blend of contemporary and medieval buildings, it never fails to engage the traveler. Thousands gathered in the Mall outside Buckingham Palace to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's record-setting 70 years on the throne. A Royal Air Force "fly past" noted the occasion. THE ENGLISH city dates back to Roman times. It has seen coronations, beheadings, royal weddings and many governments. A terrible fire in 1666 nearly leveled the town and left thousands homeless. As the capital of England and the United Kingdom, it has rebuilt and thrived, surviving war, plague and political turmoil. Today, millions of travelers count it as a favorite city for its wonderful delightful mix of theater, neighborhoods, architecture, museums and some of the world's best ethnic food. London's train stations are a world unto themselves. Street scenes highlight modern buildings and stately old ones, famous cathedrals and historic bars and restaurants. School groups on tour in the foreground mix with travelers, shoppers, businessmen and tourists. WE RECOMMEND taking organized tours to make the most of your time. Two in particular are favorites: exploring and hopping on and off London's Big Bus and taking a food tour with London's Eating Europe. On our fun day with Eating Europe, Alexander brought London's east end to life, regaling us with anecdotes and insights into kings, queens, scoundrels, lords, ladies, and ladies of the evening. Our gastronomic-history adventure stopped at elegant eateries, casual fish and chips joints as well as London's oldest pub, "Ten Bells," where in 1881, Jack the Ripper lured prostitute victims, to their grim deaths. Poppies in London has multiple locations and is famous for its paper-wrapped fish and chips. Here, "Keller and Cookie" await their order. WHATEVER YOU do in London, you'll be entertained and likely want to return. We have visited two dozen times, and will return in a few days. London has it all: food stores, festivals, buskers, bustling energy, world class theater and museums, nightlife, parks and distinctive neighborhoods with welcoming pubs and architectural wonders. Once you visit, you'll understand young Andrew's fascination and agree "there's no place like London." London's Big Bus tour stops at many famous landmarks, offering a comprehensive overview. Here, the Shard looms, with London's best viewing. MORE INFO : www.bigbustourslondon www.eatingeuropelondon ************************************************************ Famed cowboy artist Charlie Russell lived in Great Falls, Montana, for much of his life. His home is preserved at the C.M. Russell Museum, Great Falls. UP NEXT: We're always on the move, with the world our oyster. In the next few weeks, we're touting the pleasures of traveling with kids, touring a museum dedicated to the works of cowboy artist C.M. "Charlie" Russell, cavorting in Europe, meeting the Komodo Dragon and surviving in Indonesia, and celebrating the New Year with fireworks, fanfare and contemplation. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us each Thursday for a fresh look at travel, the arts, performance, nature, family and more.
- Thanksgiving feasting abroad: Find a fun place for a meal or snack to make a holiday special even where Thanksgiving isn't celebrated
Cookie's favorite Thanksgiving meal is not turkey -- although it is available on cruise ships and in many hotels catering to Americans on Thanksgiving. It's rare lamb chops with asparagus, lentils and a balsamic drizzle. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" TRAVEL IS FUN for us, and no part of travel is more pleasurable than exploring the gastronomic pleasures of far-away places. Especially on holidays, a special meal is a highlight of the trip. We love watching what the locals order in European restaurants, and aren't shy about asking a fellow diner what that attractive offering on his freshly served plate is. A breakfast buffet in Tarragona, made a Thanksgiving morning special in Spain. HERE ARE a few tips for dining abroad on Thanksgiving or any holiday. May they broaden your tastes -- and not your waistline -- without flattening your wallet, and make you a bit more adventuresome on the road. * Use your concierge. Hotels are proud of this amenity and the concierge is often the most knowledgeable person in the hotel when it comes to good places to dine and celebrate a holiday. He or she will also know which places cater to locals, or where you might find other Americans -- whatever your preference. We prefer local favorites, not tourist traps. Cookie and Keller enjoy a leisurely Thanksgiving weekend lunch in Monterosso. It's not a holiday in Cinque Terre but they made it one by celebrating. * We've found our most relaxing meals in Europe are off-season (before the Memorial Day holiday, when you can find succulent spring produce and Easter feasts, and after Labor Day through our Thanksgiving weekend which is not a holiday in many places. You'll miss the huge crowds and find restaurants less busy and staff more accommodating. In France, Italy and Spain in November, chefs, restaurateurs and key suppliers are not as taxed as in summer months when Americans flock to Europe. So October and November are our favorite times to be there. Much of Asia and Australia experience delightful weather then. * C check addresses and opening-closing hours. If you have your heart set on a particular restaurant, make sure it is open! Consider bar food and appetizers instead of a full meal. A memorable Thanksgiving dinner can be enjoyed on a a cruise. Here, Amarylla, Ellen, Robbie and Christene celebrate on Celebrity's Century. * Keep an eye on key dates for religious festivals, public holidays, big soccer and other sporting events. We also avoid places with televisions -- or you might find your bistro turned into a World Cup screening room. Go back a street or two from the main drag. Look for an outing to make your Thanksgiving or other holiday special. Here we enjoyed a wine tasting with a sommelier in southern France. He gave tips and made reservations for a dinner later. We pay attention to street stalls and markets and look for menu items featuring those ingredients. *Cruises are a great place for holiday meals. They always celebrate our USA holidays with special foods, even if they aren't American based. Always ask your waiter to recommend your appetizer, entree and dessert. He knows what the food looks like in the kitchen and what the chefs put their most energy into. ************************************************************ UP NEXT: There's no place like London. That a line from a Sweeney Todd lyric in "Sweeney Todd," but it's a line we've uttered many times in visiting this exciting city. The English city dates back to Roman times, with a rich history and a terrible fire that nearly leveled the town. As the capital of England and the United Kingdom, it has seen coronations, beheadings, royal weddings and a many governments. It has survived war and political turmoil and we count it as a favorite city -- for its wonderful theater, neighborhoods and delightful mix of ethnic food. Westminster Abbey is a much photographed London building, scene of many historic events.
- Flamenco feast in Spain features performances of famous showy art form
Flamenco dancers dazzle with their movements and hypnotic footwork. CENTURIES OLD DANCE TRADITION LIVES ON IN ENGAGING SPANISH VENUES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The swirling and twirling of scarves is part of the flamenco tradition. AS A YOUNG bride on honeymoon in Granada, I witnessed my first flamenco dance. I was mesmerized. The dancers were a mix of ages and shapes, but all had the expressive moves down pat -- their arms and feet moving in time to the intricate footwork, shawls whipping around their bodies. From our center table in a small dimly lit cafe, we could see the facial expressions and drops of sweat. I pressed a flower that flew from the head of one of the dancers during an intricate move. Dancers take individual bows at the end of each piece. THE TIME honored dance form became famous in Spain but reflects contributions from many other world cultures. It usually features a solo performer, backed by musicians and sometimes a partner. Hand clapping and that distinctive percussive footwork give flamenco its flair, enhanced by intricate hand, arm, and body movements. Today's flamenco reflects music of Latin American, Cuban, African and Jewish traditions. It was originally not set to music but was accompanied by emotional singing and clapping of hands called “toque de palmas." The company takes bows on stage, with the featured singer in the center here. IN OUR annual forays to southern Spain, we always include at least one night of flamenco. On this most recent trip, we gilded the flamenco lily, choosing two very different cities and several venues to enjoy this integral part of Andalucian culture. Both Barcelona and Malaga offer fine flamenco options. One can find as many definitions of flamenco as there are tapas bars. Most scholars agree that flamenco is composed of four elements: voice, or cante; dance, or baile; guitar, or toque, and "jaleo," which roughly translated means "hell raising." Clapping, stomping, shouts of encouragement to the featured dancer convey the emotion of the numbers, often laments about life's sorrows and the human condition. Flamenco guitarists and rhythm makers are an integral part of every flamenco show. Dancers, singers and musicians share a final bow. One of our shows, "Encuentros en la cumbre del baile," or Encounters at the pinnacle of dance, featured two of Spain's most famous flamenco dancers, Miguel "El Rubio" and Palmoa Fantova, backed by Maria Carmona and Sara Barrero. Another show, "Tablao Flamenco Cordobes," promised to convey the mystery of flamenco's singing and poetry -- paying homage to Gypsy, Moorish, and Andalusian folklore. As our waiter said, "flamenco is an outcry, an expression of love and pain, or enjoyment and happiness. It is meant to be felt, not necessarily understood." More information: to find flamenco on the web, google the city and flamenco: flamencomalaga.com flamencobarcelona.com All aboard next week for tips on Eurail travel with our team, Cookie and Keller, exploring the world with enthusiasm. UP NEXT : Eurail was the way to see Europe for many young Americans in the 1970s. Our two young at heart travelers take to Eurail again, so all aboard with tips on seeing Europe anew again by train. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more at whereiscookie.com
- Emotional flamenco, fado speak to the soul in Spain and Portugal
Flamenco -- that showy, colorful dance of southern Spain -- is performed with rhythmic clapping and instruments. Swirling scarves and lacy skirts and ruffles are part of this Barcelona performance. Southern Spain, Portugal present emotional flamenco, fado, with flair, feeling, for deeply stirring shows STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Fado in Porto is a revered tradition, here at the Ideal Club de Fado, which is a formal setting, more concert hall. than bar. MUSIC AND DANCE have long helped us understand and interpret culture. These art forms skirt across language barriers and head straight for the heart. From the chants of the Buddhist monks to the native American's war dance, to the cantor's song to lead the congregation, music is a metaphor for what we stand for and believe in. The roots of flamenco are mysterious -- not unlike the dance itself. But the beginning of the wildly rhythmic accompanied dance seems to be in the Roma migration from Rajasthan of northwest India to Spain. That was sometime between the 9th and 14th centuries. These migrants brought musical instruments --tambourines, bells, and wooden castanets -- to complement an extensive repertoire of songs and dances adapted through centuries to today's flamenco. IN PORTUGAL , fado's history is a bit more recent, around 1820. It can be presented in a formal program or organized restaurant act. It can also unfold in impromptu fashion, a gathering among friends at a tavern -- usually after a number of adult beverages. We've heard fado sung in restaurants and cafes, gardens, bullfights, streets and alleys. Officially, though, it features a singer Flamenco is presented here, "Tablao Flamenco Cordobes," with spirited dancers, musicians and singers, who also provide rhythmic clapping and chanting. -- male or female -- and two guitarists. One plays the rhythm and bass guitar and one plays the lyrical Portuguese guitar, also called fado guitar. It's a large, resonating instrument with 6 pairs of strings and a pear-shaped harmonic box. It was fun to see and hear so many very different fado shows -- a wild range -- from a formal setting in a guitar museum in Porto to a small, smoky club in Lisbon with only a few tables. We also heard fado at an outdoor restaurant where the singers moved from table to table. WE TOOK in a total of five fado shows and concerts -- one nearly every other night -- during our two-week stay in Portugal. The venues ranged from that intimate cafe with lots of drinking, merriment and only a few tables, to the more dignified guitar museum venue in Porto with a glass of port daintily served at intermission and the audience quietly respectful. In Malaga, we've experienced two wonderful flamenco shows at Tablao Flamenco Alegria Malaga. Flamenco Malaga is also inviting, a smaller venue in a restored mansion. Both offer changing repertoire and are worthy representations of this time honored artform. Flamenco in Malaga: authentic, enchanting. "Keller and Cookie" at fado in A Baiuca, in Lisbon's famous old Alfama. In Lisbon we tried a fado show in A Baiuca, a lively tonic to jet lag. The house is small with only a few tables, and the lead singer is in her 80s. It was a treat to watch her mingle with the crowd before the show, and during the breaks, as the musicians showed their instrumental stuff and gave her a break. THE PORTUGUESE love their fado, as Spaniards adore flamenco. Presenting fado shows in their purest form is a specialty of the beautiful Casa da Guitarra. The museum displays dozens of beautifully restored guitars which focuses on the plucked string instrument so connected to fado but offers much more than guitars. This fado singer is past 80 and still entertaining at A Baiuca. This unique museum developed an acoustically perfect place to hear the art form in its pure, traditional sense. Deep in Lisbon's Al Fama, its oldest area, a fado club is indoors with a larger venue in the outdoor plaza. Before the concert, we admired various traditional guitars like the viola braguesa or the viola campaniça -- learning that viola means guitar in Portuguese. The acoustic and classical guitars, mandolins and acoustic bass guitars are all exquisite instruments built in Portugal. A Severa fado show has been around since 1955, and is one of the best known in Lisbon. THEN IT was show time as a singer delivered a dozen heartfelt songs -- eyes closed, shawl tightly held. The two art forms -- fado and flamenco -- are time honored and youngsters are taught reverence for them at an early age. Flamenco in Barcelona is the Spanish expression of emotion and soul. Here, a rousing show at popular Flamenco Cordobes. Many young flamenco dancers begin as students of their moms, aunties, even grandmothers. Fado in Portugal reflects the culture's belief in destiny and a deep sense of fate. In Spain, flamenco speaks to the human condition, too. But in flamenco, singing is secondary to the dance with its astonishing tapping and clicking. The singing -- as in fado -- has a sometimes tormented sound -- poignant but sad. Said our singer friend, "Flamenco can be a song of love -- for a partner or mother, -- it can also express pain and heartbreak." FARM WORKERS tired of toiling, rejected lovers, lonely travelers missing their homeland -- all have flamenco and fado interpretations. Flamenco Cordobes is perhaps Barcelona's most famous flamenco venue and we've made several pilgrimages over the years of visiting this famous city. It is located deep down and slightly off "La Rambla," or Las Ramblas, that famous tree-lined pedestrian street winding nearly a mile through town. We like Cordobes because it offers delightful authentic food, then spirited flamenco and world class dancers and singers. Says our friend, "There's a magic to flamenco because it comes from deep emotion." In flamenco, the phrase is "el duende," meaning mystery, excitement, magic. IN FLAMENCO, each story comes to life in song, guitar and dance. As with fado, all this is usually accompanied by copious wine and sometimes tears, but always applause, shouts and whistles. When visiting all three cities this piece highlights -- Lisbon, Porto and Barcelona -- we recommend the invaluable city cards, which save time and money on venues and transportation and give entertainment options. More information or to book fado in Porto and Lisbon, and flamenco in Malaga or Barcelona: www.barcelonaturisme.com visitbarcelona.com www.flamencomalaga.com www.portocvb.com www.portocitycard www.lisboacard.org www.casadaguitarra.pt info@asevera.com www.portocvb.com www.visitlisboa.com www.tablaocordobes.com www.getyourguide.com/lisbon-l42/fado-shows-tc273/ . BEST BET: Southern California theater lovers are laughing themselves silly at "Into the Breeches!" at North Coast Repertory Theatre. A crack cast, lively pace and touching story coalesce in this romp set in WWII New England. With the men at war, woman take over a struggling theater to keep it afloat while the fellas are "over there." Gender-bending wisdom and humor -- smoothly directed -- make this play both timely and timeless. The varied Rep season showcases classics, new work, comedy and musicals -- "Pippin" to "The Cherry Orchard." For tickets, call 858 481-1055. Or: northcoastrep.org The run is through Nov. 13. Amsterdam's canals are legendary, and form the heart of this picturesque Dutch city. We spent four days on these waters, here the "Seven Sisters" on the Amstel River. UP NEXT : Amsterdam beckons. We move north in Europe, setting off on the canals which we recently explored for four sunny early autumn days. The famous canals of Amsterdam are a lifeline for commerce, tourism and socializing. We look at them and their amazing construction, and catch native Dutch folks and tourists out on a sunny fall day. Come along, enjoy the water. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more: AND PLEASE, share the links. www.whereiscookie.com
- Barcelona beckons with its architectural charm
STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Fanciful balconies of Antoni Gaudi's Casa Batllo are made of stone and shell-shaped, reflecting the architect's marine inspiration. Tours are available. We recommend the Barcelona tourism card. MANY CITIES in the world boast of an architectural theme, a cohesive style. A distinct design plan inevitably catches the eye and satisfies the viewer. For us, the list includes Rome, New York, Jerusalem, Chicago and Singapore. There are many other cities whose design is pleasing and seems to work together to impress the viewer. Bar celona stands out in this regard for the colorful, organic, nature-inspired forms of designer and architect Antoni Gaudi. For many, Barcelona is Gaudi, and vice-versa. Gaudi's Park Guell is a fantastic mecca of the architect's playful imagination and love of nature., here enjoyed by Bruce Keller and Cookie. His Catalan Modernist style is known worldwide for its ornate detail and pleasing shapes resembling shells and sea creatures, trees and flowers. We've visited Sagrada Familia and Park Guell many times, but our favorite Gaudi inspirations are those designed as homes for aristocratic Barcelonans, Casa Batllo and Casa Mila or La Pedrera . Barcelona's Palau De La Musica Catalana is one of Barcelona's many inventive architectural creations. BEYOND GAUDI , the city showcases a rich mix of styles, including medieval architecture, Art Nouveau elegance as seen in the gorgeous Palau De La Musica Catalana, and an array of modern 21st Century towers and business centers. Barcelona's creative spirit and interesting history have created a striking blend of historic and contemporary buildings. In short, Barcelona is a vibrant urban landscape unique to Europe and the world. A stroll along Barcelona's streets reveals stately buildings, wide boulevards, gardens and fountains. More information on Barcelona and the money-saving Barcelona tourist card: www.barcelonatourisme.com UP NEXT: Thanksgiving is upon is. That traditional American holiday is around the corner, with family and friends gathering in familiar places to enjoy too much good food and one another's company. But what if you find yourself abroad during the holiday, and still wish to make it special and toast our American tradition? We have answers and fun suggestions for a good read wherever you spend the day. Thanksgiving in Turkey was a fun way to try appetizers. We don't necessarily have a full meal when we're celebrating a holiday abroad.
- Explore Lisbon's delights: Ancient seaport offers music, monuments, tuk-tuk tours
STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids " The Monument to the Discoveries is a magnificent tribute to Portugal's power on the seas. It juts upward to depict the country's explorers, rulers and sailors who made history in their explorations of the world. SAILING INTO Lisbon on the majestic Tagus River, two imposing architectural wonders catch our eye. We see the stunning limestone Monument to the Discoveries. Intricately carved, it pays homage to the country's explorers, royals and navigators who set out to explore the new world. Nearby the imposing Belem Tower stands guard on the river's bank as it has done since built as a fort in the 16th Century when Portugal was king of the seas. The Tower and Monument reveal the layers of Portugal's long seafaring history. We admire Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, men who did the near impossible in the day: found the sea route to India, discovered the Azores and Madeira, and circumnavigated the globe. Somewhere over the rainbow is the delightful city of Lisbon, Lisboa in Portuguese, awaiting your discovery. THE TAGUS River meanders through the Alfama, or old quarter, urging walkers to follow it, and soak up the sights, sounds and smells of centuries of progress and some remarkable disasters. A horrible earthquake is etched into the city's memory, and Portugal has sent off more explorers per capita than any other small country. We always enjoy a tuk-tuk ride with our friend Tomas, who knows and loves the city of his birth. Highly recommended, a leisurely way to meander and learn where to catch a concert, shop for tiles or book a side trip to Sintra and its hillside palaces., Old and sturdy, with exciting new buildings going up, Portugal is proud of its maritime tradition and its knowledge of the sea. Exploring Lisbon by tuk tuk is a fun way to get around. Here Tomas, center, takes Keller, Jane, Cookie and Rick around the city's winding streets. The museums of Lisbon celebrate the rich history and culture of this Portuguese capital city. To appreciate Lisbon's dramatic stone architecture, take a guided walking tour. It will point out the fascinating Maritime Museum, one of the most important in Europe, evoking Portugal's domination of the seas. It's perfect for families or anyone who adores all things nautical. The city's many other museums focus on everything from Lisbon's rich maritime past to decorative Portuguese tiles, and everything in between. Fado is a national art in Portugal, where singers and musicians convey the emotion of stories. A FADO MUSEUM pays tribute to the national musical form, with concerts and tips on where to hear fado, highly recommended. Fado is deeply imbedded in the culture -- soulful, melancholic, and expressive. The word fado means fate or destiny. Other museums offer gems ranging from colorfully rendered miniatures of Portugal's famous doors to well preserved artifacts from the vast Portuguese empire. The city is also mecca of lively restaurants and inviting squares to relax and chat. Lisbon is a mix: stately, new, ancient and contemporary, fun and full of fascinating surprises. It is an enduring city, glistening and inviting through the centuries as a prime seaport and welcoming and economical tourist destination. Lisbon's gothic and Romanesque cathedral features many tombs, including Vasco da Gama's. One of Europe's most unsung and least visited cultural capitals, Lisbon is often overlooked in favor of Paris, Rome and the Scandinavian capitals. We have found it to be welcoming, a bit cheaper than other European capitals. Can't beat the food, music and charming people. More information, click here Park Guell's Dragon Stairway invites visitors to climb into the magical world created by Lisbon's famed architect Antoni Gaudi, whose name is synonymous with the captivating city of Barcelona. UP NEXT: We return to another favorite southern Europe city, Barcelona. With fascinating masterpieces created by genius designer Antoni Gaudi, it is replete with eye-catching architecture. Buildings reflect the Catalan modernist movement, giving Catalan architecture worldwide recognition. Barcelona blends art nouveau, neo-gothic, and oriental styles in a unique architectural potpourri not seen anywhere else. Come along won't you?
- LITTLE BIG HORN SEMINAR DRAWS SCHOLARS, EXTRAS AND HISTORY BUFFS TO PONDER CLASSIC FILM
Chief Dan George played the character of Old Lodge Skins, in "Little Big Man," starring Dustin Hoffman. Despite his second billing, the actor won awards for his convincing portrayal of the wise chief who names Hoffman's Jack Crabb character Editor's note: Christene Meyers covered the making of "Little Big Man" as a young reporter and was among panel participants discussing the Montana made movie. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Cinema Center Films Actor Dustin Hoffman on location during the 1969 filming of "Little Big Man," here on the Earl and Toni Rosell Ranch near Billings. HOLLYWOOD came to Montana in 1969 to film a movie that would change the way the world views indigenous people. When it debuted during the holidays of 1970, "Little Big Man" generated a then impressive box office of $31 million. It premiered just in time to qualify for Oscar consideration the next spring. A recent seminar in Hardin, Montana, celebrated the movie's contribution to the humanities and the ways in which it portrayed native Americans as "human beings." DUSTIN HOFFMAN was a young looking 33 -- just three years after he rose to fame as Benjamin in "The Graduate," seduced by an older Mrs. Robinson, his parents' friend. Genius makeup artist Dick Smith created a 121-year old character in DustinHoffman's Jack Crabb. Through the make-up wizardry of Hollywood artist Dick Smith, Hoffman's character Jack Crabb appears first as a 121-year old man, relating the story of his remarkable life to a reporter. The character undergoes many transformations in both the white and native worlds, leading many lives, including as a scout for General George Armstrong Custer during the infamous Indian Wars. Crabb's life is as complex as any portrayed in the movies. Panelists discussed the impact of the film, and acting as extras. ROW AND Cheyenne men and women – elderly now -- were 53 years younger when they acted along side Hoffman. They portrayed members of Little Big Man's adopted Indian family and for the real-life families, the picture gave their lives an economic boost. Panelists at a three-day "Little Big Man" symposium in Hardin recalled that dozens of native people earned from $10 or $25 a day -- more if they had their own horse -- during the filming. The gathering, sponsored by Little Symposium organizer Tim Bernardis spent years studying "Little Big Man" and planning for the festival marking its 53rd anniversary. Big Horn College, celebrated Montana’s connection to the film. It was the brainchild of author and veteran Crow Cultural Center library director Tim Bernardis, lifelong film aficionado. He spent years studying the movie, based on a 1964 novel by Thomas Berger and directed by Oscar winner Arthur Penn. Bernardis dreamed of a symposium to spotlight its impact and secured a grant to make it happen. Planned for 2020, 50 years after the film’s 1970 debut, the seminar was derailed by COVID. Bernardis wasn’t about to let the project be lost. “It is too important; we kept the dream alive,” he said. THE GROUNDBREAKING film begins with Crabb recalling the killing of his parents on their way west, and his rescue by Indians. Crabb describes multiple incarnations in diverse worlds, including earning the name "Little Big Man" from his adopted grandfather, Old Lodge Skins. His A scene from the film, "Little Big Man," now 53 years old, with this battle scene shot on location at Crow Agency, near the actual battle site. Some of the actors spoke at the seminar. unique perspective and visits with his wise elder teach him the ways of the “human beings,” as Old Lodge Skins describes his people. Hoffman’s convincing acting continues to fascinate, 53 years after the film’s debut to critical acclaim. During three lively and varied days, three years after the COVID postponement, presenters considered a wide range of topics, from academic insights to emotional musings and humorous, touching impressions. Some gave Sidney "Chip" Fitzpatrick Jr acted as emcee at the fete. vivid back stories, examples of present-day racism, feeling that the culture is back-sliding in a sea of increasing bigotry. Symposium emcee Sidney Chip Fitzpatrick Jr., related a vivid example of recent racism experienced when an elderly white woman accosted his daughter with verbal slurs in a Billings store. “We still have a lot of work to do,” Fitzpatrick said, "to make certain that native Americans are regarded as human beings, not caricature drunks and other stereotypes.” Young beautifully dressed Indian girls delighted with their performances during the "LBM" symposium. AMONG THE TOPICS was an examination of Richard Mulligan's portrayal of George Armstrong Custer, the man whose “Last Stand” came on a grassy knoll near Hardin. The Little Bighorn battle scenes were filmed on location at Crow Agency, near the actual battle site, lending authenticity to the movie. Between presentations, seminar guests recalled the changing of the name Custer Battlefield to Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument in 1991. “It is important to recognize the indigenous perspective,” said one woman. “A very good thing.” Artists, historians, townsfolk and friends mingled to discuss the movie and its impact . DANCERS AND drummers entertained at lunch time in the school cafeteria, while guests and participants reminisced about the movie's beginnings. Director Penn read the book in 1966 and loved it. Billings mayor Willard Fraser got wind of the project and heard Arizona and Mexico were being considered as locations. He recruited arts advocate and rancher Earl Rosell to help sell Montana to Hollywood. Fraser called upon his Indian friends—Johnny Wooden Legs, Edison Real Bird, Henry Old Coyote, Susie Yellowtail and others -- and with Rosell, they "sold" the Montana location, making lobbying trips to Hollywood and Cinema Center Films on their own dime. Fraser biographer Lou Mandler Rene Rosell Yarborough and Christene "Cookie" Meyers" were panelists. Rosell is holding the sword her father used in a cameo scene. described Fraser’s courting of “Little Big Man” producer Stuart Millar. The persistent, Montana boosting mayor toured Millar and movie scouts around Montana, enumerating the advantages of shooting a motion picture about Indians in authentic Indian country. “The realism of the film would boost box office sales,” Fraser wrote. His lobbying proved effective and filming began on the Rosell ranch in summer of 1969. Rosell even scored a cameo as a soldier who spares Little Big Man when he realizes the Dustin Hoffman character is white, not Indian. Here are links to some of the most watched clips from the movie, featuring Dustin Hoffman as Jack Crabb and Richard Mulligan as a deranged, egocentric General Custer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kflV0EBLBWIhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hJ9igq1zZ8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WihjvhJawEohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpbq6nGbs50 The wedding/birthday party at High Chaparral on the West Fork of the Stillwater River, Montana. UP NEXT: Gentle readers: few things escape the eye of the writer of this column. But Bruce William Keller's surprise proposal took my breath away and left me in a rare stunned silence. It happened during a clan reunion celebrating my birthday -- and will never be forgotten. I said "Yes," of course, actually, "I'd be delighted!" We've been together more than 16 years and are legal domestic partners in the state of California. But we'd not discussed tying the proverbial knot. So when he asked -- on bended knee -- I thought "why not?" His co-conspirators were our niece and nephew, Amarylla and Steve. He officiated at the ceremony, during the birthday tribute. Coming next. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Europe's charms are enhanced by seeing it through brother Cosgriffe's eyes
TRAVELING WITH A FAVORITE LOVED ONE ENHANCES A TRIP THROUGH HIGHLIGHTS OF SOUTHERN EUROPE'S FAMOUS CITIES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SEEING FAVORITE places with people you love makes the journey special, enhancing each museum, meal and hike. As Labor Day approaches to signal the end of summer, we recommend considering a trip to Europe with someone you've wanted to travel with. Prices drop along with the temperature, children are back in school and crowds are gone. From left, Keller, Cookie, Rick and Jane on a walking tour of Roman ruins. Keller and I had a bonus on our recent trip. We were joined by my brother, Rick Cosgriffe, and his partner, Jane Milder. It was an unforgettable 14 days, and I wouldn't trade a minute of it for anything. Seeing, experiencing, tasting -- immersing ourselves in the newness of travel -- is a sensory experience in any case. Enjoying the art, food, music, historic monuments and seaside resorts with loved ones is even more special. WE BEGAN planning the adventure nearly a year before it materialized. We coached Rick and Jane on the trip long before they boarded the first plane of several connections. We prepared them for this fact: Things will go wrong. They did. We advised them to roll with the punches. They did. PASSPORTS needed to be renewed. Tickets had to be made both for the cruise portion and the air travel. Hotel reservations had to be secured in both couples' names. There were check lists and "to do" lists and reminders to line up pet sitters, garden waterers, house checkers and all the minutia that comes with planning any trip. Moreso, when the trip is to another continent. SINCE PART of the trip was an 11-day cruise, land tours needed to be agreed upon and chosen. Booking early is essential to avoid sold-out tours in favorite port cities. This took hours of planning. AS DETAILS fell into place, we soothed Rick's and Jane's worries. Classic sculpture greeted our travelers each day in Florence and Rome. Growing up, Rick and I found our family travels helped us gain a deeper understanding of the world. I wanted this for the two of them. It came to be, and was thrilling to experience the newness, to visit cathedrals and museums with the four of us together as I revisited favorite haunts with someone I've known since his birth, his longtime partner and my husband. A tuk-tuk ride with a friend was a special thrill for Cookie and Rick, foreground, with Keller, Jane and our driver friend in the back. Traveling together challenged the four of us to adapt to one another while expressing our preferences and desires. We made sure to honor everyone's preferences so we could relax and fully enjoy our new surroundings. We collaborated on restaurant choices, engaging with hotel personnel and taking suggestions to enhance our adventures. We helped one another feel comfortable in new surroundings and when Rick and Jane really wanted to do a particular tour or see a particular museum, we compromised. We also surprised them a number of times, with special excursions, including a tuk-tuk ride through Lisbon. View from a boat ride: The quartet approached one of the early Roman bridges in central Rome. TRAVELING TOGETHER immersed in new sights, sounds, tastes, and textures, it is important to listen to your fellow travelers. We drew them out, asked them for their observations, which triggered conversation and anecdotes. My brother remembered finding a charming gelato shop from a previous trip to Europe. So that became a mission as we went off the ship. Keller, Cookie and Rick near the harbor in Ibiza. WHAT I LOVED most about being with my two favorite fellas -- spouse and brother -- was sharing our observations about places both familiar and new. Discovery and anticipation are great parts of travel, and finding a new museum or art gallery is a terrific bonding experience. Rick, a gifted ceramic artist, found a pottery studio during a stroll through the village of Le Castellet in southern France. And there Jane discovered that she'll never settle for anything less than a French inspired cafe au lait, when she sipped a delicious five-franc cup in the village. General manager of NCL's Viva, Nelson Martins, is pictured in center rear, with guests on a recent Mediterranean cruise. At left are Rick and Keller with Jane and Cookie at the "GM Table." THE EVENING most special in our memories came with an invitation to dine with Viva's general manager, Nelson Martins, at his table. We had a fabulous time, and recommend Viva for anyone looking for all that cruising offers. Fun cruise on NCL's VIVA www.ncl.com/about/contact-us Elegant porcelain pottery -- unique hand-painted floral art -- by retiring artist Rick Cosgriffe. It will be sold this weekend at his studio home in Billings, Montana. Details soon. UP NEXT: Porcelain artist Rick Cosgriffe (featured above) is parting with his cherished collection of hand-painted pottery. He apprenticed on the California coast with artist Jim Hayes many years ago, then studied sumi painting in Berkeley and Portland, Oregon, before returning to his native Montana. His prize-winning work is in many galleries, praised for its nature inspired beauty and fine detail. We profile the artist, who is the writer's brother, and share particulars on his show in Billings featuring unique hand painted platters, jars, vases and tea pots. Meanwhile, explore, learn and live and check us out for a fresh spin on the arts, family, performance and nature: www.whereiscookie.com
- Porcelain potter Cosgriffe retires from studio, parts with treasured collection
Rick Cosgriffe's decades long fascination with Oriental brush stroke painting shows in his graceful and detailed work. These jars are inspired by the wildflowers of his native Montana. Sumi brush painting influenced Montana born artist's unique pottery style PORCELAIN COLLECTION GOES FOR SALE AS ARTIST MARKETS COLLECTION OF VINTAGE SHOW PIECES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Artist Cosgriffe's fine porcelain pottery caught the eye of New York Times art critic John Canaday, who called his pieces "elegant -- still wet with the feel of the brush." PORCELAIN has ancient roots in the world of art. And for many years, a Montana native has been carefully creating fine arts porcelain show pieces. Artist Rick Cosgriffe is retiring his pottery studio, selling a collection of unique pieces he has crafted since the 1970s during three decades at the potter's wheel. Rick's hand painted bowls, vases and platters reflect his study of sumi painting and his love of nature and the American west as well. The one of a kind collection spans his entire career, showcasing his evolution as an award winning potter, based for many years on the west coast. Rick in Europe last month with his brother-in- law Bruce Keller. If this sounds boastful or braggadocious, it's because I'm his sister and a fan. Cherry blossoms and birds are frequent motifs in Cosgriffe's art, here on a platter featuring the faithful chickadee. I've watched him grow as an artist since we were children drawing birthday cards. Rick left Montana in the early 1970s to apprentice at the Hayes Pottery Studio in Point Arena, California. Jim Hayes, a native New Yorker and my brother-in-law, invited Rick to study ceramics and learn the craft. It was soon apparent to Jim and his wife, my late sister Peny, that Rick had tremendous talent. As his reputation grew on the west coast, I helped promote his art and sell his porcelain at art fairs and juried shows, including Yellowstone Art Museum. One of our patrons was the wife of the owner of the Seattle Seahawks. She spent thousands on vases, platters, lamps, jars and bowls and promoted Rick's work in high-end galleries. IT IS WITH mixed emotion that I announce Rick is parting with his collection at a show and sale this weekend (details below). I will never part with my collection, acquired during many art shows together. My pay each show was a work of art so my collection features Rick's evolution. I have collected my brother's hand painted porcelain for decades. These lovely jars hold teas, coffee and sugar for hummingbird nectar. When I interviewed New York Times art critic John Canaday, I invited him to our home to show him Rick's pottery. "It has elegance, and enduring beauty," he said with admiration. "It is still wet with the feel of the brush." FOR YEARS, Rick's pottery was shown in galleries from San Francisco to Taos, Denver, Whitefish and Red Lodge, and in Billings at Toucan Gallery. After suffering "burnout" from the rigors of production and shows, Rick's career segued from pottery to nature photography and writing, a move to Montana, return to university and a degree in counseling. He worked for years at Passages in Billings, helping troubled women return to society and productive life. He retired from Passages but developed another arts career, collaborating with his partner Jane on calendars, mugs, photographs and journals. Despite dealing with Parkinson's, he remains an accomplished artist and writer, but no longer creates porcelain art. He jogs daily, and friends from our hometown of Columbus, Montana, remember his excellence as an athlete and devoted runner. Rick Cosgriffe with his Montana photos. They will be available this weekend, along with his porcelain MY BROTHER'S art is informed by a lifelong interest in travel, in art of many cultures and a particular interest in sumi painting. In reflecting on his work with porcelain -- known for both its delicacy and durability -- Rick pays homage to porcelain artists of centuries past. "Japanese, Chinese and Korean artists worked with classic celadon glazes." Porcelain, he adds, lends itself to graceful glazing "and is an excellent canvas for brush painting." Potters know how difficult it is to paint on curved surfaces rather than a flat canvas. Thus Rick's work reflects both talent and patience. It's been my pleasure to be part of my brother's artful world for many years. I encourage admirers and collectors not to miss this weekend's show. I'll be the one with the hanky. Art show and sale details: Buyers can browse and collect a piece of Cosgriffe's unique, one-of-a-kind porcelain artwork during a three-day show this weekend at 1311 Hardrock Drive, Billings, Montana, 59105. His elegant work will be displayed on his back patio, during a neighborhood sale. Times are Friday, Sept. 6, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday, Sept. 7, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, Sept. 8, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The complex problem of over-tourism is the focus of our next column. We experienced protestors and understand. UP NEXT: Tourists go home! We felt the frustration and anger of locals on a recent return to Europe. There we were -- enjoying ourselves, spending money, taking in familiar and new sights. But not all the locals want us in southern Europe. We understand their feelings, because tourism has done damage, along with providing income for many. This "Tourist Go Home" mentality was on both signs and on the lips of protestors during this most recent trip to Europe. It's a complicated issue. Over-tourism is putting pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and housing at the expense of residents. We delve into the problem in the next piece. Meanwhile, remember to enjoy, live and learn, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com














