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Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pay their respects to composer Jean Sibelius in Helsinki. LIVELY SCANDINAVIAN CITY IS FUN BECAUSE IT'S BEAUTIFUL AND UNCROWDED Cookie peeks out from behind a bronze of Sibelius, erected to appease critics of the larger, abstract sculpture which remains dominant.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   "The Carpe Diem Kids"  AS MUSICIANS and artists, we made our first tour stop in Helsinki at the memorial to the famed Finnish composer, Jean Sibelius. Aptly named -- if not an original moniker -- it was christened the Sibelius Monument, erected in 1967 by Finnish sculptor Eila Hiltunen. It is a striking abstract sculpture, as impressive to the eye as the dramatic composer's work is to the ear. It can be seen from a half mile away and  resembles clusters of organ pipes.  Helsinki's imposing Cathedral is beautiful to admire from the outside. The intriguing jagged monument consists of over 600 steel pipes unevenly grouped together at various heights.  Part of the monument can be "walked under," and the highest pipe reaches over 27 feet in the air. We watched people sing and shout at various places around the monument, as the pipes carried their voices. The much photographed landmark was designed to embody the spirit of Sibelius’ music, but its abstract nature caused complaint from the people, so a more traditional image was commissioned. It rests near the larger original tribute sculpture. ONE CANNOT  miss Helsinki’s most famous landmark, the Helsinki Cathedral. The brilliant white building with the green dome dominates the skyline.  We'd seen enough cathedrals for this trip, so we admired its beauty from outside, making our way slowly up the steps to notice its sweeping lines. Our fellow tour bus passengers view Uspenski Cathedral. After Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square, our guide took us to nearby Market Square then we did a drive-by of the famous red brick Uspenski Cathedral. Completed in 1868 in the Katajanokka district of Helsinki, the Cathedral is the largest orthodox church in Western Europe. With its golden cupolas and red brick facade, it remains a vivid symbol of the Russian impact on Finnish history. NOT SURPRISINGLY , Finland's neighbors have dominated its history.  First it was part of the Swedish Empire, then of the Russian. Finland did not gain its independence until a little over a century ago, in 1917. Its language and culture are neither Scandinavian nor Russian, but a Magyar-Estonian hybrid, the result of migrants who came from the southeast. OUR   FAVORITE  view of Helsinki is from the water, and it's easy to line up a two-hour harbor cruise, where you'll see the iconic city images from the Gulf of Finland.    Helsinki has lots of water besides the Gulf.  The Vantaa River, brooks, ditches, bonds and wells count for 500 square kilometres of Helsinki's total 686 square kilometres. Helsinki from the water offers memorable views. The M/S Helsinki offers lunch and dinner cruises, a relaxing way to enjoy a Nordic summer afternoon or autumn evening. We found the boat comfortable and the food fresh and with a Finnish flair -- rye bread, meatballs, smoked salmon, salads and berry pie.  The Finns invented the sauna, here at Loyly in Helsinki. We couldn't "Finnish" our visit without a sauna, an invention of Finland.  The oldest Finnish saunas date back 10,000 years ago, after the Ice Age. Originally, saunas were earth pits covered with animal skins. The first saunas with stoves and chimneys were used in the western countryside and spread to 18th century city saunas. We spent a typical sauna evening in Löyly, a modern seaside sauna with a stylish, glass-walled restaurant and sweeping views .  Löyly is the Finnish word for steam. The place is so named because of the steam released when water is thrown on hot rocks. The soft moist heat warms the body and relaxes the mind. A two-hour booking costs 19 euros and includes a towel, seat cover, soap and shampoo. A swim suit is the order of the day at a public sauna, but if you have friends in Helsinki, you'll likely use only a towel -- or your birthday suit. Enjoy this link to hear "Finlandia," by Jean Sibelius:  "Finlandia" Youtube video   https://youtu.be/fE0RbPsC9uE The Gefion Fountain of Copenhagen features oxen pulling a plow driven by the powerful Norse Goddess Gefion.  UP NEXT: While we're in the neighborhood, we invite you on our continuing tour of lively Scandinavian capitals.  Next up, Copenhagen, then on to Oslo and Stockholm. Tourism is gradually opening up and Americans are beginning to travel again. Even if your journeys are strictly via armchair while we await a vaccine, come enjoy the cities we visited just before the virus curtailed travel. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel look at travel, art, nature family and more: whereiscookie.com

Hollyhocks are in full flower here in the northern Rockies, as autumn approaches. CHILDHOOD MEMORIES  OF FAVORITE FLOWER REMIND OF GRANDMOTHER, DOLL MAKING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Hollyhocks against the Beartooth Mountains -- a glorious sight. MY GRANDMOTHER Olive  loved hollyhocks. She was my mother's mum, and lived next door. She taught me to separate and save flower seeds each fall. Revered among her many flowers were the faithful hollyhocks. Dad's mother, Grannie Annie, loved her lilacs, too. I remember a large crystal bowl filled with those soft, circular blossoms -- sometimes a clutch of all-whites, other times a profusion of pinks, purples, reds. Sometimes we'd make dollies -- using upside down blooms for skirts and fashioning heads from buds yet to fully open. Add a few toothpicks and a felt marker to "glue" them together and craft faces. Moisten and warm hollyhock leaves and you'll have a poultice to help heal cuts or sooth arthritis. THEY REMAIN  my favorites of the old-fashioned plants I've raised here in the northern Rockies, to remind me of my Montana childhood. Hollyhocks -- with their lofty spires --  are my definitive old-fashioned garden plant. These tall, stately flowers used to tower over me in  both grandmothers' gardens. I'd look up at them and see faces. "HOW DO  you do, little Cookie?" Gran Olive would throw her voice behind the splendid array by the fence. This pollen covered bee is having a field day in a single hollyhock blossom. A bit of hollyhock homework tells me the graceful plant is from Eurasia. Its Middle Eastern   heritage makes it versatile as well as pretty. Taken internally, Hollyhock is soothing to the gastrointestinal, respiratory and urinary tracts in the human body. It promotes urination, soothes ulcers and relieves a dry cough. When you have a sore throat, try a cold infusion of hollyhock. To make, simply gather a handful of fresh flowers or leaves (you can use dried) and fill the center of a square of cheesecloth. Wrap the sides up to form a crude tea bag, tie with string or dental floss and drop in a jar of water. Drape the string over the edge and use the lid to hold your "bag" in place. Keep your "bag" submerged, leave out overnight then refrigerate. Use infusion within a day or so. Hollyhock dolls are a family tradition.  I'VE SEEN hollyhocks in fancy wedding bouquets and neglected hedges. Cultivated from Egypt to the southern U.S. and elsewhere, the plant with the large showy flowers is usually a biennial.  They grow only foliage the first year and flower the next. You can also make a hollyhock doll with a little imagination and a few toothpicks. Look deeply into the hollyhock blossom and see a face. I've been scavenging hollyhock seeds worldwide for decades.There are many varieties of blossoms and several different leaves. Turkish Wild is a rare hollyhock species with elegant, soft orchid, saucer-shaped flowers from May to September. If you allow these gorgeous biennials to clump and seeds to fall, you'll have years of enjoyment. Today, the lofty spires on our Hollyhock plants are covered with large frilled flowers in beautiful colors.  Bees love them. So do I. Thanks, Gran. UP NEXT:  From hollyhocks, to "Lilac."  No, not the plant, but the restaurant in downtown Billings. Farm fresh produce and locally sourced meats pair with homemade breads and gnocchi for fabulous fare.  We talk with the inventive Montana born chef and sample the ever changing menu.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

If you enter Oslo by boat, you will transit Akershus Harbor and its Renaissance Fortress STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' A statue honoring playwright Henrik Ibsen invites one to the National Theater. MY NORWEGIAN  is showing, so indulge me, please, as I wax affectionately about Norway's capital, Oslo. It's a proud city, which grew from a rustic 9th Century village to a bustling region of nearly a million people. Cookie and Keller in Akershus Harbor, Oslo city center. Oslo is also a city of graceful architecture, scenic landscapes and rich history, proud of its artistic heritage and long legacy of maritime life. For art lovers, it's a place to honor Norway's great dramatist, Henrik Ibsen, and its most famous painter, Edvard Munch. Both men's accomplishments are featured in many places in the city -- from galleries to concert halls, parks to museum exhibits. FOR FANS of the sea, Oslo offers world class maritime museums celebrating Norway's centuries old shipping history.  The country has long been   a major player on the world's oceans.  In 1875, Norway was the world's third largest shipping nation with 60,000 sailors. The first regional shipowners association was formed in Norway in 1899. The Norwegian Maritime Museum is rich in experiences and activities with indoor and outdoor exhibitions in a unique maritime environment. The waterside Viking Ship Museum displays impressive Viking ships from the 9th century. Oslo's Radhus, Town Hall is a striking building with twin red brick towers. THIS BUSTLING  capital of Norway sits on the country’s southern coast at the head of the Oslofjord. It’s known for its green spaces, many on picturesque Bygdøy Peninsula. If you're feeling athletic, the Holmenkollbakken is a ski-jumping hill with panoramic views of the fjord and a world class ski museum.  A word about safety.  Unlike other European cities, you'll have little to worry about in Oslo. Crime is nearly non-existent, people are helpful and speak beautiful English, city streets are clean. Norwegians proudly tell visitors that they're more likely to fall off a cliff or be hit by a meteor than be attacked in Oslo. Oslo's maritime history is celebrated in a pair of striking museums along the water. Oslo is also a wonderful city to navigate -- whether solo or with a family or group. WE'RE BIG FANS of city passes and the Oslo pass is a nifty one, offering entry to more than 30 museums and attractions, free travel on all public transport and other attractive perks. If you enjoy museums and public transportation, it's cheaper to get the Oslo pass before your trip. You'll likely want to buy some Viking art, also known as Norse art. Viking souvenirs abound,  because since the 10th Century, my Viking ancestors adorned myriad objects with carving and fine metalwork.  Oslo's Nobel Peace Center is a proud testimony to Sweden's generous inventor, Alfred Nobel, and his ideals.  The Viking symbol is found on everything from bedspreads to tablecloths, coffee mugs to plates and pajamas.  I love my sterling silver earrings -- shaped like Viking helmets. Set sail on NCL WHILE STOCKHOLM is home to the Nobel prize hall, Oslo is proud of its Nobel Peace Center. One of the six Nobel prizes, the Peace Prize, is awarded in Oslo; the others in Stockholm. The recipient of the coveted peace prize is chosen by the Norwegian Nobel Committee. Inside the graceful building is a permanent exhibit about Swedish born Alfred Nobel, who -- like his native country -- had deep ties to Norway. Two Americans, Martin Luther King Jr., and Barrack Obama, won the Peace Prize, given annually to someone who has “done the most or the best work for fraternity between nations, for the abolition or reduction of standing armies and for the holding and promotion of peace congresses.” Sculptor Gustav Vigeland donated his enormous and unique sculpture collection.  FINALLY don't miss Viegland Park, with its 212 enormous sculptures by Gustav Viegland, the country's most prolific and generous sculptor.  He worked in granite, bronze and wrought iron over a period of 40 years, donating the lion's share of his imaginative work to Oslo. The Park is one of the most popular attractions in Scandinavia. visitoslo.com/en/activities-and-attractions/oslo-pass/ The culture of Japan is celebrated at San Francisco's Japan Center, where an entire neighborhood features all things Japanese. It is beloved by locals and tourists alike in this interesting, ethnically mixed city.  UP NEXT:   Perhaps you're missing international travel.  You're not alone. So if you'd like a taste of Europe, South America or Asia without leaving the continent, join us next week for a special column on "foreign pleasures close to home." The piece will feature ethnic neighborhoods, with museums, restaurants, architecture and attractions that reflect the influence of other cultures, but on our own continent.  We have suggestions for visiting U.S. and Canadian cities with a European feel -- San Francisco, New Orleans, Montreal, Victoria and more. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, family and the arts: whereiscookie.com

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER It's all in the family at Arslan's Gyros in Pacific Beach. In the European tradition, the small, neat restaurant is proud of its food and its family connection. Both points are worthy of consideration. In several meals at Arslan's, we've never been disappointed. Arslan's Gyros is a friendly, family run restaurant in Pacific Beach. The food is tasty and fresh, the service is friendly and personal, and you'll see a steady flow of regulars and tourists dining in and taking out. Son Ved, says his dad, Arslan Redzepovic, after whom the place is named, has worked long and hard to create a user-friendly restaurant that is popular with the critics and the people.  In the multi-ethnic neighborhood of PB, you're likely to hear a hearty please or thank you in Greek -- "parrakallo" or "efkaristo."  Arslan, the owner, is multi-lingual.  You might also hear Mandarin, Italian, Japanese or perhaps Serbian, Croatian, Hungarian or Albanian. Arslan's plates are pretty, the prices are reasonable, and the quality remains high.This is a place where the chef talks to you while he warms your lamb, sautes your onions and heats your pita bread! If you think Redzepovic is not a Greek name, you are absolutely right. Although the family has heritage and relatives with Turkish, Thesolonian and Greek links, the Pacific Beach branch that cooks up the fabulous Greek fare hails from another part of the world.  Arslan, in yellow shirt, involves the entire Redzepovic family in his delightful eatery. "We're actually from Bosnia," says Arslan. "We first thought of Yugoslavian food but didn't know how that  would go over. We decided on Greek because we know Americans are familiar with Greek fare." The family has traveled and boasts a long line of good cooks, so accommodating the Greek cuisine was a logical move. The Serbian language is often heard in Greece and the cuisine that Arslan's family grew up with has similarities to the Greek food they now serve.  The Serbian grape leaves stuffed with rice and raisins are reborn as Greek dolmades with a delicious filling of ground meat and seasoned rice. Arslan's offers a gorgeous falafel platter, appetizing dips and specialty items.  If you're hungry for something you don't see on the menu, ask -- you'll probably receive! Nodding to the Mediterranean love of seafood, Arslan's salmon plate is a generous meal for one hungry person -- or a satisfying split for a couple, with a little falafel or hummus as a side. The $15 salmon is a fish lover's favorite -- tender, juicy salmon and a beautiful salad with hummus for dipping.  But my favorite is the lamb.  Absolutely melt-in-the mouth tender and deliciously spiced. The Yugoslav cuisine with which the family is familiar also features sweet desserts sprinkled with sugar and breads filled with delightful surprises, so the baklava is a natural for Vahida, the mom of the family and Arslan's wife. Ved Redzepovic is a personable, articulate member of the family, one of Arslan's sons and a good cook. According to son Ved, "She can do anything. She keeps everything together." And her baklava is devine. Business near the restaurant has brought us to this little part of Pacific Beach several times in the last few weeks. We're always delighted with the freshness of the meat, lamb sliced from a spit before your eyes and wonderful generous portions. The falafel is the best we have tried since a recent visit to the Middle East. Besides Arslan, Vahida, Ved and chef Fadil, Ved's brother Sabahudin Redzepovic is a scholar at University of Chicago. He came with his family from Sarajevo and Herzegovina. He's made an entertaining video about cooking and you can find more about him on facebook. For more about this interesting family and its top Greek fare: go to https://arslansgyrossandiego.com/index.html or call 619-962-9925. Coming for the next two posts: Coming soon:  a two-part piece on cruising tips. We're getting lots of questions about cruising, since posting our "100th cruise" article. We'll help you navigate through the thousands of choices out there, considering budget, destination, type of stateroom, ship activities, dining options and more. Check it out this coming Saturday and next Wednesday, for pointers on narrowing the field and  choosing a cruise from the hundreds available. Please tell your friends about us.  We post every Wednesday and Saturday at: whereiscookie.com Take time to explore, learn and live!

Comings and goings at High Chaparral in the Northern Rockies:  another fabulous family reunion features talent galore.  Some had to leave the night before, but these cousins and close family said farewell until next time on the last morning. RAINY DAY GIVES FORUM TO GARAGE BAND, WITH FAMILY TALENT SHOW OFF THE CHARTS Great nephew James, above, practices his whistle, and great-niece Elliana, in green hat with Nora, previews her  costume while cuddling our Yorkie.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE FORECAST  was for intermittent rain, and that was indeed what transpired. Wet though our weekend was from time to time, nothing could dampen our spirits. Emcee Kenji Otokawa with his second-cousin James Brian Ganner, strolling High Chap. We had fabulous food, we'd flown and driven to be together from several states, and we had a talent contest to perform. MY NEPHEW  Kenji Christopher, named after me, was recruited to host the roast, which included affectionate stories about my travel mishaps and a few yarns I'd spun through the years. Kenji had 30 Cosgriffes laughing and crying as he tossed off bon mots between witty introductions of the performers. (He also brought his lovely lady friend, Lauren, with him from Atlanta, to introduce her to his family.) At keyboard, Larry Giles, adopted Cosgriffe, & nephew James Hayes on guitar. BETWEEN  thunder storms and downright downpours, the Cosgriffe Family Reunion, Feast and Talent Spectacular unfolded partly outdoors and partly inside our garage-cum-auditorium. We'd converted Keller's work table to a picnic table as saws, hammers and projects in progress went on shelves to make way for a keyboard, electric base, drums, tables and chairs. OPENING  the show, Kenji welcomed people to the "unbirthday party," a la "Alice in Wonderland." We'd decided the occasion merited more than a mere birthday fete. Pretty in pink:  Sister Olivia donned her sun hat to sing a song with sister Misha: "Heaven's Radio" was a huge hit. Cookie read from her paperback, "Lilian's Last Dance" and played piano.  Elliana gives her uncle Keller a hug. Paying homage to me, ("Who but my auntie would serve me a martini when I was three?"), Kenji kept the action going, as his cousins, aunties, uncles, mother and others came front and center to sing, dance, read vintage letters and original poetry, plus a poem by William Blake (this writer's favorite). Musicians rocked out with Mother Maybelle Carter favorites, Gershwin, Cole Porter and the Andrews Sisters. "In the Mood" one moment then Willie Nelson. Then Kenji, a gifted pianist, honored us with a classical performance. Janice Joplin's little known sister, Janie Joplin, made a guest appearance, singing a Cosgriffe version of "Mercedes Benz," with my brother Rick accompanying her (really Jane Milder, my sister-in-law) while doing a headstand. Jim Hayes focuses on a photo while his sister-in-law Misha looks on. Kira Cosgriffe, right, gives her sister Aurora expert eyebrows.  MY NIECES  took time off to give one another facials, implementing the salon's latest techniques for removal of unwanted facial hair! (Never a dull moment with the Cosgriffes.) I played keyboard, spelled off by the talents of adopted Cosgriffe Clan Georgian, Larry Giles, who with his beautiful and funny wife, Mary, are welcome members of the clan. We had drums and guitar, with the talents of my nephew, James, whose father, my brother-in-law Jim Hayes produced a spectacular slide show, "The Cosgriffes in California." Gil's Goods by the Murray Hotel is a fine find in lively Livingston, Montana. IT TAKES A couple years to plan and execute a proper family reunion. "Save the Date" notices went out months ago, then invitations in May, heralding the August gathering at High Chaparral, north of Nye, Montana.

Brian Menges, proprietor of  Gil's Goods , is hands-on, welcoming Cookie, and bringing water for Nick's and Nora's doggie dish (on the table.) Polite dogs are welcome at Gil's Goods, next door to the famed Murray Hotel in Livingston. HISTORIC MURRAY HOTEL HAS AN APPETIZING, NEW NEXT-DOOR NEIGHBOR! Gil's Goods attracts a host of regulars and tourists staying at the Murray. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' BRIAN MENGES  is an amiable entrepreneur who loves what he does and enjoys watching lively people appreciate the delicious food he prepares. The ambitious 43-year old is proud of his eatery, Gil's Goods, and the inventive way he "recycled" the old Gil's Gifts sign to  read "Gil's Goods."  While Livingston is embracing the eatery, Menges is giving back. He employs over six dozen people, making his one of the largest operations in town. Between Gil’s Goods at 207 West Park, the adjoining Murray Bar, and his fine dining eatery, the acclaimed 2nd Street Bistro (123 N. 2nd St.), he has a staff of 74 enthusiastic, capable people. As one dines at Gil's, a view of the historic Depot, and the colorful Yellowstone Park buses  provides additional entertainment.  When lively Livingston Gil's Goods opened in May of 2012, Menges trumpeted his achievement: "I'd wanted to have a European-style cafe with sustainable, organic, local and ethical food," he says. (Thus his word play on "SOLE" food.) Gil’s is open 17 hours a day, seven days a week, from 7 a.m. -- opening with a sure cure for hangovers for those who have had too much fun on a "Livingston Saturday Night" (or on any other day!) Try tasty huevos rancheros or spicy biscuits and gravy. Menges also keeps the place open until midnight servings to night owls hungry for a bite. (He'll stay open later if traffic demands.) Gil’s serves its tasty fare with pride because it's made in the small, efficient kitchen with its bread and pizza ovens. A beautiful brick wall, uncovered in a two-year remodeling project, adds charm and character.   EARLY EACH  morning, fragrant goodies begin to emerge: flaky croissants, lavish Danishes, warm biscuits, delectable scones, and European style bread with crunchy crust --- fantastic dipped in the herby tomato soup. A quesadilla appetizer is terrific. Pretty cakes, truffles, cookies, éclairs and other elegant desserts are prepared on site for both Gil’s and 2nd Street around the corner. Gil's Goods sign used the old "Gil's Gifts" sign with just a few letters to change. After the breakfast and brunch rush, Gil's segues to burgers, brats, wonderful soups, Niçoise salad, and a splendid Greek lamb kebob salad. Throughout the day, Gil's serves an ambitious 13 kinds of wood-fired pizza, and Livingston's own luscious Wilcoxson’s ice cream. THE "GIL'S"  name stuck -- both to honor the longtime store (remember those Gil's Got It signs on the highway?) and to preserve the landmark sign.   Menges, as chef and proprietor, has a   backstory dating to 2004 when he grew tired of cooking in Vegas, Boulder and Jackson Hole.  "I had an opportunity to buy this for about what I'd have paid for a three-year lease in Jackson," he said. "I had to do it. I'd earned my stripes in fantastic kitchens and dining rooms and was ready to blow the roof off Livingston!" Christene taught and read last week on a trans-Atlantic crossing. Her last Montana workshop is this Saturday in Harlowton. Did he do it? The proof is in the returning customers. "I don't know what we did without Gil's," says one satisfied diner. "It's really part of life here." COMING THURSDAY : Our weekend blog publishes early this week, to give readers a chance to plan a day trip to Harlowton Saturday or Nye, Montana, Sunday, on a lovely autumn weekend. The last of six Writer's Voice summer writing workshops unfolds in the Harlowton Library, (There are still openings.) It encourages memoir, fiction, poetry or non-fiction writers.  Meyers' exercises will jump-star the muse in all levels. The experience includes lunch. A reading from "Lilian's Last Dance" follows in the Upper Musselshell museum. Sunday's 4 p.m. reading is at Windy Flats Gallery on the West Fork of the Stillwater north of Nye. All welcome to both days' events. More up next at www.whereiscookie.com

TIME IN THE COUNTRY YIELDS CONNECTION WITH FAR-AWAY COUSINS IN SETTING OF RURAL BEAUTY  Spending time with our Norwegian relatives was a highlight of our latest holiday.  Here, from left, Fredrik, Cookie, Keller, Ann-Christin, Gunnar and Nora.  The scene is the Nystul family farm near Mysen. The doggie is Zac. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' Gunnar Nystul, our Norwegian cousin, took this photo of his acreage in rural Norway, 43 southeast miles from Oslo. Norway Farm Visit NEAR THE  town of Mysen, in south-eastern Norway, we spent a beautiful day in the company of my cousin Gunnar Nystul, with his family and pets, tools and projects. What a delight! On a 16-day Scandinavian cruise and Atlantic crossing, we were thrilled that Gunnar and his wife, Ann-Christin, took time off from their government jobs to entertain us. Gunnar serves dessert at the farm, prepared by Ann-Christin, who made a beautiful meal to serve the American cousins.  There's nothing like a "home visit," the enticing bonus of having friends or family in a destination to enhance a visit. It makes a place real. Gunnar picked us up at the pier in Oslo in his Mercedes station wagon for our Norway Farm Visit We drove southeast, visiting in English, which is compulsory in Scandinavia, learning about Norwegian farming, freeways, food, economics, medical plans and education (it's free at university level, with high taxes of course.) Gunnar pointed out high-tech undersea tunnels which connect the many islands of Scandinavia. We took several enroute to the farm. OSLO HAS  a famed Viking past, when my people (on my maternal granddad's side) roamed the high seas, traveling as far as Canada and the Mediterranean to trade, explore and conquer. Ann-Christin has a modern kitchen in an older home.  Her talent for decorating  and artistic eye are obvious at every turn. On several other visits, we'd enjoyed Oslo's stunning Viking Museum and fantastic Vigeland Sculpture Park. This time, we vowed to make our time a family affair.  Leaving the city, we passed Akershus Castle, where our ship docked, the Parliament Building, National Theatre and Royal Castle. Our anticipation was high as a Viking mast. NORWAY IS  famous for its vast expanse of woods, moors and lakes. My cousin, Gunnar, has a microcosm of his country on his farm.  It is resplendant with all that makes Norway famous -- glasswork, crafts, farm tools, sculpture, flowers, carvings and more. We couldn't wait, having seen a photo Gunnar sent to entice us. Approaching their place was like watching a movie with ourselves in it. Several of the buildings on the Nystul Farm date back 100 to 150 years.  After about 50 miles of the city slowly giving way to woods and villages -- we reached Mysen, administrative center of the municipality of Eidsberg in the county of Østfold. The town is built on the grounds of an old farm named Mysen, thus its name. Our family name, my mother's maiden name of Nystul, means "new farm." We've traced Gunnar's and my connection back to twin brothers Nils and Olav, separated at age seven when their mother died. Trees lead to hiking paths, and  a pleasant afternoon spent with family, flowers, dogs and delicious food. Norway indeed has its midnight sun, here as we left Oslo, bidding a bittersweet farewell to the Nystul family of Mysen, Norway, our cousins. Gunnar and his wife, Ann-Christin, and their children, Fredrik and Nora, spend as much time outdoors as possible.  No wonder. Summer is fleeting, from  late June to early August. That's when the weather is warmest and days are long and bright. Temperatures reach the high 70s, and occasionally 80F. (25°C - 30°C.) It's perfect weather, with little humidity. Winters are another matter -- snow boarding and skiing are popular, with every winter sport one could wish. Dog sledding, anyone? The farm is, no doubt, lovely with a dusting of snow, too. NEXT UP:  Danish writer Karen Blixen Danish writer Karen Blixen is buried in this simple grave in Rungsted, where her museum is. is known for her first book, "Seven Gothic Tales," and for "Out of Africa," which was made into a major film.  She lived many years in Africa, returning after her lover was killed in a plane crash. Back in Denmark, Blixen began writing, emerging to public scrutiny in the early 1930s. "Gothic Tales" was published in the U.S. in 1934 under the pseudonym Isak Dinesen. We spent time at Rungstedlulnd, the Karen Blixen Museum, a lovely country house in Rungsted on the Øresund coast north of Copenhagen, Denmark. Among its enticements is a fantastic bird preserve.   Blixen lived there much of her life and donated it, with the proviso that bird life and wildnerness be preserved. Remember to explore, learn and live. More at: www.whereiscookie.com

"Rouge" is an extraordinary show combining fabulous dance, acrobatics, stories and humor with a cast of perfectly proportioned men and women in scanty but tasteful costumes.   Delightful dancing with performers in lights makes "iLuminate" a hit with audiences looking for a unique show. BE PREPARED TO BE WOWED! VEGAS SHOWS LIGHT UP THE STAGE WITH IMAGINATION,DARING, DANCE, SEXY HUMOR,  FAMILY FUN Showgirls dazzle and delight in "Extravaganza" which has an old-fashioned Vegas show vibe with beautiful girls, spectacular sets and all the feathers and head gear of yore. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" LAS VEGAS is always lit up and ready for action -- no more so than during the holidays. Then the nation's showiest city rolls out more lights. And lights are what the latest shows in Vegas are all about. Many visitors come to Sin City -- population nearly 3 million -- expressly to see shows. Others come to gamble, drink and misbehave. Many come to view  millions of lights -- three million of them alone at Las Vegas Motor Speedway when its Glittering Lights show showcases 170 lit up trees. NEW SHOWS  kick things up a notch with fantastic lighting and extra  pizzazz for the holidays. From Caesar's to the Bellagio, Paris to the Venetian, Mirage to Rio, look for holiday lights, A stroll down the famous Strip yields a bonanza of Las Vegas theater highlights. Everything is advertised -- from risque acts to family fun attractions. Naughtily dressed showgirls in blinking costumes compete for attention with classic nativity scenes with a Vegas twist, elegant Christmas trees and spectacular lights. More is always more in Las Vegas but during the holidays more is expected and brightly delivered. THIS TOWN  is about performance, so don't miss a show or two or more. The city's stages offer plenty of "enlightening" reasons to visit, with many shows suitable for families.  New and recently introduced productions sparkle with enticement for a visit. We saw eight top ones in a week's marathon and recommend these: :  * Wow! This is a "see it to believe it" must, transporting astonished viewers into a world of water, wonder and fantasy. It combines all that Vegas does best -- dazzling dancing, amazing acrobatics, international talent in the form of 30 gifted artists.  Plus 3D multi-media projections, holograms, and a memorable musical score.   Terrific for family with its jugglers and humor.  At the Rio showroom. Rouge: beautiful bodies in unusual positions with extraordinary muscle control, grace and flexibility.   * iLuminate. This is a complete Vegas original, designed by a woman whose pair of passions are dance and software design. The show fuses technology and dance when glow-in-the dark costumes light up a darkened stage. The musical mix -- from rap tunes to jazz and Folies Bergère favorites -- produces an engaging, unique show with expert dancers delighting in their flashy and flashing LED suits. At the Strat (formerly Stratosphere.) * Extravaganza.   This fun, family show has the feel of an old-fashioned Vegas revue. It showcases the dazzling talent of 30 artists including dancers, acrobats, skaters, aerialists and comedians. A world champion crossbow expert shoots an apple off her own head -- just one of the show's startling feats of strength, flexibility and derring-do. We sat next to a completely  mesmerized family.  At Bally's Jubilee showroom. A glowing Las Vegas attraction, the High Roller. * Rouge.   This was the last of the octet of shows we saw. So glad not to have missed because it's our favorite. Fabulous dancers, aerialists, contortionists and one of the funniest emcees on the Strip present what's billed as "a journey of seduction and adult adventure." A jaw-dropping ensemble of beautiful bodies -- men and women -- perform a captivating series of sketches in settings ranging from the 16th Century French court to the Roman forum. Gorgeous costumes, terrific dancing, laughs, thrills. Adult slant. At the Strat.    "Immersive Nutcracker" brings the action to the  audience, with floor to ceiling imagery and lights .  * Immersive Nutcracker. " This holiday classic gets a contemporary,  kaleidoscopic spin through music and "surround" imagery. The Tchaikovsky holiday favorite is reinvented to jazz up the title character, Sugar Plum Fairy and dancing company. Like all immersive works, it breaks through that "fourth wall" that traditionally separates audience from performers. There's no "stage" in the literal sense, but the imagination of its creators shines through in flash, dazzle, lights and larger than life imagery to tell the tale of the magical toy's awakening. The creators of "Immersive Van Gogh" endow this "Nutcracker" with that same magical feel. At the Shops at Crystals, Lighthouse Art Space . We also recommend any of the spectacular "Cirque du Soleil" shows. Each has the trademark energy and excellence that mark this Canadian born enterprise. Our favorite remains "The Beatles LOVE" at the Mirage,  which we've seen many times. "Ka," "Michael Jackson,' "Mystere," "O," and the newest Cirque show, "Mad Apple," are all winning choices. The latter showcases Cirque's unique combination of acrobatics, music, dance and comedy with a New York twist at -- where else? -- New York, New York.  RuPaul's Drag Race is glitzy fun at the Flamingo, and "All Motown" is an excellent production at Alexis Park Resort, with a fine five-woman cast.  If you haven't been to Vegas in a while, now's the time to let its lights shine on you! Happy holiday viewing! An homage to New York is the new Cirque du Soleil show, with fabulous acrobatics, music, dance and comedy. An old-fashioned Vegas show girl. www.illuminate.com ; www.wow-vegas.com ; www.rouge-vegas.com   www.immersive-nutcracker.com/las-vegas ;  www.allmotown.com www.cirquedusoleil.com/las-vegas-shows www.get.rupaulsdragracelive.com ; www.vegas.com Check out this website for discounts, coupons, family fun: www.capturetheatlas.com/christmas-in-las-vegas   Actor-director Sean Murray gives Scrooge depth and humanity in a touching, beautifully directed version of "A Christmas Carol" on stage at Cygnet Theatre . www.cygnettheatre.com

A "Rancho Deluxe" party poster hangs by the registration desk at the Murray Hotel. At left is actor Sam Waterston, at right Jeff Bridges. STARS SHINE BRIGHTLY FOUR DECADES LATER; LIVINGSTON PLANS A PARTY TO CELEBRATE  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER LONG AGO, when I was a young reporter, a movie parody of a western made a name for itself. Although 'Rancho Deluxe' film was not greeted by critics as a great film, its made-in-Montana stamp, Jimmy Buffet score, engaging story and talented cast created a lasting appeal. Today, "Rancho Deluxe" is beloved by many. A roster of Montana-loving folks created the 1975 film: Thomas McGuane crafted the screenplay.  The gifted novelist and short-story writer lives on a ranch near McLeod and writes for The New Yorker.  His evocative characters and landscapes are drawn from the Montana he has known for decades. ACTOR JEFF BRIDGES , who lives a good portion of the year on his Paradise Valley place, donates time and money to worthy Montana causes, including a fight against child hunger. Jeff Bridges skips around with kids, whose health and well being he champions when he is in Montana, enjoying his home in Paradise Valley. Bridges and Sam Waterston portray the two drifters who rustle cattle and try to outrun the law in then contemporary Montana. Both of these versatile actors have gone on to success and accolades.   Bridges, known as both a devoted family man and talented actor, had been nominated for a best-supporting Oscar in 1972 for "The Last Picture Show."  Five years ago, he won the coveted best actor trophy for "Crazy Heart." WATERSTON HAS  enjoyed success in film, TV and on Broadway, winning a Tony for "Abe Lincoln in Illinois." His career includes a lauded Lincoln mini-series, Golden Globe nominations and fame for his "Law and Order" role. The Murray Hotel will be full of movie lovers later this week, when an outdoor screening is held across the street for "Rancho Deluxe."  LEGENDARY  singer-composer Jimmy Buffett has maintained long ties to Montana, dating back to the 1970s when he wrote the music for "Rancho Deluxe."  He performed "Livingston Saturday Night" with alternate lyrics within the film in a scene set at a country/western bar reminiscent of those in downtown Livingston. Local Livingston residents remember the movie premier and the filming, which took place largely in Montana, supplying me with some of my first "star" interviews as a young reporter. Waterston is known on TV for his "Law and Order" and Abe Lincoln mini-series.  But I enjoy him more in Shakespeare in the Parks, where this summer his wisdom and wit as the marooned sorcerer Prospero in "The Tempest" won raves.  Like many of today's fine actors, he came up through the stage and is returning to it in his older years. (He is 74; Bridges is a younger 65.) AS THE THIEVES  steal cattle from wealthy rancher John Brown, Harry Beigh is called in (Slim Pickens.) Clifton James is a hoot as the rancher -- the actor is alive and well at 94.  Watching him and Pickens go after the two young rustlers is chief among the movie's pleasures.  The bombastic Brown and Beigh (a former rustler) provide a merry kick in the pants. Enter hapless ranch hands with rhyming names of Burt and Curt: Harry Dean Stanton and Richard Bright furnish giggles as they fail to capture the thieves.  Pickens died in 1983, famous for riding the bomb in "Dr. Strangelove." A rodeo cowboy for 20 years, he's the "real deal" and his is is the most authentic character in the picture, aging detective Harry Beige hired to find the rustlers. Pickens garnered the best reviews of anyone in the film.. All four supporting players garnered fine reviews for "Rancho Deluxe."  One critic said McGuane wrote the script "purely out of a desire to keep from fallin’ asleep” (mimicking rustler Jack’s definition of capitalism) but our group of movie aficionados found the writing engaging and the characters and their shenanigans entertaining. Best of all, we loved seeing Montana on screen. The 'Rancho Deluxe' film footage of Paradise Valley includes a scene at Chico Hot Springs, and another when the helicopter spots the rustlers. We marveled at the film's lovely lighting by William Fraker and we tapped our toes to the Jimmy Buffet score -- written before he gained Margaritaville fame and a following of Parrotheads.  Downtown Livingston is there, too, and it's fun to see the familiar Depot, restaurants and Murray Hotel, which have aged as well as the actors. Elizabeth Ashley has appeared on Broadway and is known for her portrayal of sultry Tennessee Williams women. AN ELDERLY MAID  at the Murray Hotel a couple days ago recalled cast and crew staying at the Murray, partying in the fourth-floor outdoor jacuzzi (long since gone) and drinking and trading movie stories while soaking. Elizabeth Ashley, known for her moving interpretations of Tennessee Williams' southern belles, played the part of Cora Brown, married to a wealthy ranch owner. Actor Clifton James, who played the wealthy rancher married to Ashley, is still alive at 94 and living in Spokane. Here is Elizabeth Ashley during the filming of  "Rancho Deluxe" in 1975. The film's director Frank Perry, who died 20 years ago, was also known for "Mommie Dearest," "Diary of a Mad Housewife" and "David and Lisa." When he found he was dying of prostate cancer, he filmed his own story,  which was an international success. He, too, loved Montana and returned to vacation several times.

A trio of sandhill cranes steps lightly across a field near Fishtail, Montana, between recent rain storms. MIGRATING CRANES THRILL ROAD-TRIPPERS AS THEY SWOOP DOWN FOR A STAY BY FISHTAIL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The sandhill crane takes its name from Nebraska's Sandhills.  THERE MAY  be no more spectacular sight than the unexpected view of a glorious flock of sandhill cranes putting down in a wheat field -- or taking off! The sandhill crane has been visiting near us lately (south-central Montana, about a half-hour from Red Lodge and a few miles north of Nye.)  This lovely bird is known in North America and even as far as extreme northeastern Siberia.  'Lilian...' musical songs debut to public      (click link at left) THE COMMON name of this uncommon bird -- a bit like a Las Vegas showgirl --  refers to habitat like that at the Platte River, on the edge of Nebraska's Sandhills on the American Plains. But this large and beautiful crane also passes through Montana, spends time to nest, reproduce, raise its young and feed, then takes off again. Cranes can be seen in many places, including in our neck of the woods in the Northern Rockies. Found in several scattered areas of North America, sandhill cranes reach their peak abundance at migratory stopover points on the Great Plains. There, they can be seen by the hundreds. We've had the good fortune to view a dozen or so at a time as they stop off in Montana. The early spring gathering of Sandhills on the Platte River in Nebraska is among the greatest wildlife spectacles on the continent, with over a quarter of a million birds present at one time. Although they are currently considered "common," their dependence on a key stopover sites makes them vulnerable to loss of habitat in the future. SANDHILL  cranes are no sissy birds.  The ones in the northern hemisphere migrate long distances (some cross the Bering Straits every spring and fall, en route to and from nesting grounds in Siberia). Those from the southern part of their  main breeding range -- in the northern and western parts of the lower 48 states -- migrate shorter distances. Recently, with global warming, the sandhill has begun migrating later in fall and earlier in spring. Some are spending winters farther north than usual. Sandhill crane populations nesting in Mississippi, Florida, and Cuba do not migrate at all.  Lucky, birds, to be able to stay put, enjoy the sun and conserve energy! Nick and Nora, our Yorkies, enjoy a suite in the Omni Hotel, Los Angeles. "A Little Night Music," by Stephen Sondheim, directed by Vint Lavinder, enjoyed a successful  run at NOVA in Billings, Montana. More about this innovative enterprise soon. COMING UP : Doggone it. Nick and Nora, our magnificent Yorkies, have been with us a decade.  We reflect on the wonders of the canine-human connection next blog. And Venture Theater of Billings, Montana, and Rimrock Opera Company, two proud Billings arts organizations, merged to form NOVA. As its name suggests, NOVA offers new, exciting work. Recently, "A Little Night Music" graced the stage of the Montana Avenue theater. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends and Wednesdays for fun road tripping, arts features, music, travel and cruising tips, at : www.whereiscookie.com .

Bill Jones was a wonderful painter, whose one-man shows drew crowds in Phoenix and Los Angeles galleries.  Here is a favorite self-portrait. Here's looking at you, kid: Artist, writer, traveler, funny guy  BILL JONES --- a  TRIBUTE  By CHRISTENE MEYERS A DECADE HAS elapsed since Billy’s passing. This week, we celebrate his rich, but brief life: Bill and Cookie traveled the world, here in Portugal in 1997.            BILL WAS BORN  in Indiana and liked to say he moved his parents to Arizona when he was not quite a year old. He considered himself a native Arizonan and wrote and painted the desert with affection.          He was a curious global citizen, an enthusiastic world traveler, always up for a trip, a new adventure.           Bill Jones, Cookie, researching their novel       He drew marvelous comics and stories from an early age. His mum, Katie, recalled that she would often pull him from his art for a meal.  He was a lifelong devotee of museums and art.      HE GREW  up playing in the desert, loved to hike and remembered running barefoot  to escape the wrath of an irate farmer when he and his buddies snitched a watermelon. Despite chemotherapy and radiation which took the usual toll, Bill Jones, left, continued to travel, here cruising the Caribbean with Cookie and his sister-in-law and brother-in-law, Misha and David Minesinger.           He served in the U.S. Army in Korea, where his charm and good looks earned him a high prestige job of driver for the General's wife.  He was a proud member of the color guard.  HE EARNED a B.A. in English with a philosophy minor.  He was a fine poet who also wrote and co-wrote several novels, including “Lilian’s  Last Dance,” which he and Cookie began in the 1990s and Cookie  revised and published in 2014. He marched to his own drummer, “cut his own trail,” as they say in Montana, his second home. He wasn’t easily labeled – a truly original thinker – with a sharp intellect and cutting ironical wit. Billy's hair was growing back, when he was able to take a six-month trip after his surgery and treatment for cancer in 2003-4. Here he and Cookie enjoy a stroll through Central Park in New York. ·       His film reviews were concise, thoughtful and provocative, earning him a national reputation in his days with the Phoenix Gazette and Arizona Republic. He interviewed many 20 th  Century’s greats of film and theater, from Katharine Hepburn to Robert DeNiro to Meryl Streep. He liked interviewing directors and particularly appreciated Martin Scorsese.          HE WAS  a fan of John Updike’s writings and interviewed him twice, treasuring complimentary notes from his favorite writer.  He loved “Les Miserables,” Stephen Sondheim’s musicals, white wine and his retriever Ruth, who lived to be 17, "the longest relationship I had with a female."         He had two sons whom he loved and influenced.  Christopher and Jason, both unique in their talents, pay honor to Bill’s memory in their love of family, art and the natural world. Bill Jones with his grandson Rowan Jones, in the back yard in Phoenix, where Billy spent his last days.         His grandchildren didn’t have him very long, but he loved knowing that they were on the planet!        Grandson, Rowan, visits “Bill’s Hill and “Grandpa’s Tree” in Sun Ray Park, Phoenix, keeping his memory alive.  Bill was a devoted brother to sisters Karen and Marcia.  He enjoyed “Siblings Night Out” and was proud to welcome daughters-in-law Katie and Carole to the family. HE MET  Cookie on July 15, 1977, during a movie junket to London and the Queen’s Silver Jubilee. When their charter flight to England was delayed at JFK, Bill magically acquired a piano and Cookie played show tunes for a reception hosted by United Artists.  Bill and Cookie’s first husband, Bruce Meyers, became friends during film and theater outings. After Bruce’s death, Bill’s and Cookie’s friendship blossomed into romance and lasted until Bill’s final day a decade ago. He died, full circle, on the desert he loved, as she played "It Had to Be You." Check out these links about the survival and publication of the novel Bill co-wrote:   http://www.whereiscookie.com/2014/11/exploring-us-texas-to-hawaii-in-search.html http://www.whereiscookie.com/2014/12/how-characters-are-born-making-lilian.html THEATER ON TAP:   Whereiscookie.com  roams the globe, and occasionally offers personal pieces like the one today.  Next up is a look at the thriving theater scene in San Diego, where Cookie winters and happily indulges in the glut of theatrical riches. Saturday, we'll look at the splendid array of current offerings at La Jolla Playhouse, San Diego Rep and North Coast Rep. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekends and as the spirit moves us to share adventures, observations and photos.

The "Painted Ladies" near Alamo Square, San Francisco, California, represent an architecture used for Victorian and Edwardian houses and buildings painted in distinctive pastel hues. The term is over a century old. HEAD TO THE CITY BY THE BAY FOR VARIETY, FUN, WITH A FEAST FOR THE EYES AT EVERY TURN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "One day if I go to heaven ... I'll look around and say, 'It ain't bad, but it ain't San Francisco.'"      Herb Caen, noted San Francisco columnist who died in 1997.   The late Herb Caen, a symbol of elegance, smiling and raising a glass to his beloved San Francisco. THE LATE  Herb Caen loved his town like no one else and waxed about it in his colorful newspaper columns for 60 years. Boats on Fisherman's Wharf await tourists, residents, an international crowd. Tourists from all over the world have their photos taken on Union Square.  "A city is not gauged by its length and width, but by the broadness of its vision and the height of its dreams," he proudly said, of his city, San Francisco. I happened to be in one of my favorite cities when he passed.  San Francisco was Caen's home for most of his life (April 3, 1916 – February 2, 1997) and he was honored by San Francisco Chronicle writers and thousands of readers in the next few days. It was wonderful and touching to follow the tributes. SAN FRANCISCO  truly has vision, and she has always dreamed. Her whimsical cable cars, "crookedest street," unusual architecture (Trans-America Pyramid, one of many), bridges, the bay, the parks, landmark sites such as Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39 and Union Square, unique art and gardens, bistros, bars and theaters all speak to what Caen meant when he joked that heaven might be nice, but it wouldn't be San Francisco. Much of the city's charm came from the "rebuilding" after the 1906 earthquake and fire. It re-invented itself in an imaginative, eye-catching way. In my many visits to San Francisco, I understand Caen's pride in the town he called home. Nick and Nora join us for sun and people-and-dog watching, while we enjoy coffee and pastry on Union Square.  EVEN Off-SEASON , in winter, San Francisco has an elegance about her. And it's dog friendly. My family loves San Francisco.  My sister Peny and brother-in-law Jim settled in northern California in the 1970s, and now a nephew and his partner ranch there. Plus a niece and her family live in Redwood City, so we often visit, always making discoveries. The "Bard of the Bay," Mr. Caen, loved his city for its vibrancy, beauty, variety.  He loved its enthusiasm, daring and fearless embrace of the new, while honoring the old. Tony Bennett made his name, with a song about San Francisco.   The Trans-America Pyramid is one of San Francisco's many unique, eye-catching structures. Caen loved the city's famous "Painted Ladies," by Alamo Square, those picturesque, expensive pastel Victorian and Edwardian houses. HE DOTED ON  the fabulous food -- from Indian to Asian to Greek, Italian, French and barbecue -- all befitting the Pier 35 on the center of the action near Fisherman's Wharf. culinary mix prepared by and for the town's ethnic melting pot. To gourmands, that makes San Francisco appealing. The clam chowder in sourdough bread bowl withstands time's test. CAEN WROTE  about the city's grand hotels. We love the Hyatt on Union Square, the stately St. Francis, the Fairmont where we heard Duke Ellington years ago, and the "Top of the Mark" Hopkins, now owned by InterContinental. We love Diva for its spirit and recently tried a fun new one, the Zephyr. It thinks big -- like San Francisco -- rising from the old Raddison on Beach Street, to cover an entire city block, all in a nautical theme (some of the rooms look out on the bay through portholes.) Thumbs up: Bruce Keller and great-nephew James Ganner enjoy the San Francisco Zoo train. Wee James is a regular. Caen wrote about that bay -- the ships which sail it, the people who work in the port, the prison on Alcatraz and its long-gone denizens and wardens. He wrote proudly about the many films made in hilly, distinctive San Francisco. Whoever said "less is more" didn't understand San Francisco's big, bold approach to life where, happily, anything goes. CHECK OUT  CityPASS for San Francisco highlights -- the trolley, cable car, aquarium and other "must see" attractions, at a significant savings. We love CityPASS! COMING UP : The San Francisco Zoo is a wonderful place, for kids of all ages.  From giraffes to lions and a fun steam train, it's popular year round. What makes a zoo appealing, and how does the San Francisco zoo rank for our two worldwide zoo watchers? High ratings and a fun ride coming up next at whereiscookie.com  We look for adventure as we travel the world for food, family, frolic, the arts and the natural world. Enjoy, learn and live!