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This store in Madrid was cranking up its displays for the holidays the day after Thanksgiving  (which is not celebrated in Europe, of course). Black Friday, however, is big, a definite tradition throughout Europe and in much of the larger world. Here Saint Nick stars in myriad displays. HOLIDAY CHEER BLANKETS THE MEDITERRANEAN FROM NOVEMBER UNTIL MID-JANUARY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" HAPPY HOLIDAYS, READERS! EAT, DRINK, SHOP, BE MERRY!  This week we share splashes of holiday color from our recent southern European and Mediterranean forays, a southern Europe salute to the holiday We've spent yule time in Hong Kong, on the Rhine, in Bora Bora (where Santa arrives on a kayak) and in the Canary Islands, where the wise men sang beautiful carols to us. Glass in Murano is bright and beautiful for holiday gifts. TO HONOR THIS WEEK  of family and friend time, we offer a photo essay of favorite holiday scenes. We hope it expresses our  delight both in travel -- and in the celebration of holidays. Combining the two makes each more special. Above, a market in Barcelona offers  everything from candles and sweets to cheeses and wrappings. From the lavish Christmas markets of Austria, Germany and England, to the pub crawls and food binges in Ireland, to the giant Christmas trees of Scandinavia, the holiday spirit sweeps the globe.    We hadn't expected such  fervor, particularly with the financial unrest in France and Belgium, and unemployment in parts of Greece, but people worldwide   seem to want to celebrate -- even when times are hard. Glassware in Valetta in Malta lights its waterfront during the festive holiday period. Murano flies off the shelves and food and craft markets are flourishing in Madrid, Rome, Naples, Barcelona, Florence and Venice. IN MANY  European cities, Christmas isn’t just a single day of festivities, but an entire month of celebrations. Bustling Christmas markets abound from Norway to Italy and most countries embark on the Christmas season with enthusiasm.  We came upon colorful festivals, religious ceremonies, crowded night markets, and pub  revelry with food offered in traditional holiday colors of red and green. Europeans don't hurry to put Christmas to bed,  Southern Europe salute the holiday when some of the decorations will go down on Twelfth Night, though, that festival in some branches of Christianity marking the coming of the Epiphany, usually Jan. 5 or 6. Meanwhile, enjoy the season's color. Lively scarves in Montenegro salute the season. Great gifts or souvenirs for yourself. A picturesque old boat is lovingly tended during in Chania, Greece, where bargain lodging can be found. UP NEXT:  Where in the world will you find yourself in 2019? We offer tips on what's hot,  and where you might find a bargain. Our  recent foray on the Mediterranean gleaned lots of tips and we share them with you so you can pick a few that might fit your particular slant on life. If you like quiet harbors and a quaint old town, you'll enjoy the villages of some of the lesser known Greek islands, where lodging can be found for under $150. If you like the sizzle of a busy city, you'll find Barcelona will make you happy. Restaurant fan? Ideas coming. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie's favorite royal, the late Queen Mum, sported a jaunty hat when she joined journalists and travel writers for her daughter's 1977 Silver Jubilee as Queen Elizabeth II.  The beloved monarch's hats became famous during World War II, when she wore them to visit bombed villages and cheer the people on during hard times. From left, sisters Christene (Cookie) Meyers, Misha Minesinger and  Olivia Cosgriffe are hats off at niece Kira Cosgriffe's wedding to Mike Hill last summer.  Most of the wedding party celebrated the occasion with hats. THE HATS HAVE IT: FAMILY TRADITION, FAVORITE MOVIES & THE QUEEN MUM STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER & CM "The Carpe Diem Kids" and FILM STUDIO ARCHIVES That's a younger Cookie, left, her niece Amarylla Hayes (now Ganner and a mother of two youngsters herself) and the late Peny Hayes, Cookie's sister and Amarylla's mother, on the beach in Maui SO WHAT IS IT  about wearing a hat that makes everything seem fresher, brighter, hopeful? A sense of play, suggestion of fun, a feeling that the occasion is going to be above the usual outing. Cookie's late mother, Ellen, was never without a hat, here as she pets Yorkie Nora. We're saluting the hat -- not just for Easter -- but for any time, because hats make us happy.  There’s something undeniably joyful about discovering the perfect hat while traveling. I love to pick up hats while on the road. I look in whimsical street markets and vintage boutiques, to find hats that are more than mere accessories. They’re souvenirs of personality and place. Hats make us take notice -- and be noticed.  I've loved hats since I was a kid.  My mum had a trunkful of hats. My grandmother wore hats and gloves to travel, and I wore many hats during my years in the theater -- literally (25 hats on my piano, which I changed during many productions, notably as the head of the Kit Kat Band in "Cabaret.") Audrey Hepburn made this stylish hat famous in "Breakfast at Tiffany's. Hats off to the Ascot scene in "My Fair Lady."  FROM THE ASCOT scene in "My Fair Lady" to the delightful chapeau of the Mad Hatter in "Alice in Wonderland," or Indiana Jones' jaunty fedora, we remember a scene with a behatted character. Remember Sherlock Holmes' dapper deer hunter hat? Charlie Chaplin's derby in "The Little Tramp." Wayne Campbell's Trucker cap.  Holly Golightly's swooping chapeau in "Breakfast at Tiffany's." We're saluting the hat because it's shaped so many film characters. Gene Hackman's pork pie hat made his Popeye Doyle memorable.  Cookie's been behatted since childhood. Or Katharine Hepburn's sun bonnet as she toils at the church organ in "The African Queen." Gene Hackman's signature pork pie hat as Popeye Doyle.  When I met the late Queen Mum in London in 1977, she wore a hat. She was beloved for her showy hats, dresses and matching purse and shoes. SOME QUOTES for  the behatted:     "It isn't what I do, but how I do it. It isn't what I say, but how I say it, and how I look when I do it and say it. Sometimes with a hat and not much else." -- Mae West Keller is not about to be outdone by the girls. Ready for his close-up. "Women who love hats aren't jealous. They like a good hat on another. Women who wear hats know who they are.''   --Anonymous. "Life is like a new hat. You don't know if it suits you if you keep trying it on in front of your own mirror."  -- Shirley McLaine. "Wearing hats has become like fine art for me."   --Tina Brown  "I have 12 hats. Each represents a different personality. Why just be yourself?"--  Margaret Atwood “I wear my hat as I please, indoors or out.”  -- Walt Whitman, "Leaves of Grass.  " Luxurious, flirty, maybe a bit sexy. We believe a great hat can change your day."  -- a sign in New York's Plaza Hotel.                                                                                                                                BEST BETS: Phil Johnson stars in a brilliant one-man performance, "A Jewish Joke" at San Diego's Moxie Theatre. This Roustabouts production is on stage through April 8, a tour de force for Johnson, whose writer character is on the rise in Hollywood until Senator Joe McCarthy's red-baiting tactics force him to make a crucial decision about his partner and his future. Johnson and Marni Freedman co-wrote the moving often funny work, artfully directed by David Ellenstein. Stunning, poignant theater, not to miss.   theroustabouts.org A spirited ensemble involves the audience and creates an enthusiasm that weaves a spell on the audience at "Beachtown" in downtown San Diego. UP NEXT: "Beachtown," in downtown San Diego, is a delightful throw-back to the innocent days of political fund-raisers, neighborhood potlucks and community gatherings.  Always original director Sam Woodhouse works his charms with a talented stable of San Diego Repertory Theatre actors to bring this unique Herbert Siguenza and Rachel Grossman work to the Lyceum stage. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch a new post each Friday for the weekend.

Cesar Manrique's beautiful concert hall was created in a volcanic cave. The native son's vision transformed his beloved island of Lanzarote in Spain's Canary Islands. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The first thing you notice about Lanzarote isn’t just the dramatic volcanic landscape it’s how seamlessly art lives within it. That’s no accident. Visionary artist César Manrique spent decades shaping the island into a place where nature and creativity coexist in perfect balance. Visiting Lanzarote isn’t just a beach getaway it’s a journey through a living gallery carved into lava and stone. Exploring his work is one of the best ways to experience Lanzarote not just as a destination, but as a carefully preserved work of art. Lanzarote's unique volcanic architecture inspired Cesar Manrique. One of the longest volcanic tunnels in the world, the Cueva de Los Verdes has been protecting locals on Lanzarote for centuries. It opened to the public in 1964 and may be toured. At picture's far right, Cookie aims her camera. THE BRILLIANCE of a single man is responsible for the unique artistic look of the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Cesar Manrique visionary, Renaissance man who transformed Lanzarote into the Canary Islands' most unique and interesting of the group Cesar Manrique was born nearly 100 years ago, in 1919, served in the Spanish Civil War, and took a trip to New York in the early 1960s that changed his life. Searching for "the real meaning of things," he found New York a place to indulge his artistic flights of fancy. He returned to Spain after a couple fertile years, lured to the U.S. by his cousin, Manuel Manrique, a New York psychoanalyst and writer. New York's artists, journalists, writers, and bohemians made an impact. So did the crowds, which he compared to rats and detested. Cesar Manrique's home, above, is nestled near huge aloe vera fields and incorporates Lanzarote's volcanoes. "Man was not created for this artificiality," he wrote. "We have an imperative need to return to the soil, to feel it, smell it." Aloe vera fields and Lanzarote's volcanoes near Manrique's home A TRUE visionary and by far Lanzarote's most famous citizen, Manrique was a painter, architect, interior designer, gardener, sculptor, activist and environmentalist. His imprint on his beloved birthplace is universally acknowledged. Our excellent Viator guide became teary-eyed describing his 1992 death -- ironically in an auto accident (he eschewed the increasing number of cars on his island). He was 73. His home is now a fascinating foundation in his name, and may be toured by the public. LIKE EVERYTHING Manrique created, it makes brilliant use of the natural world. Built in 1968 on top of a trail from a 1730 volcanic eruption, the home incorporates volcanic bubbles into a unique living space. The exterior is inspired by traditional Lanzarote architecture and the home incorporates the elements Manrique deemed essential for a well rounded life: conservation and study, artistic activity and cultural reflection. He also believed in respecting the natural environment and integrating it as artfully as possible into living space. His imagination was fueled and his vision shaped during his U.S. stay by both the artists he met and the crowds and congestion he avoided. 'WHEN I returned from New York, I came with the intention of turning my native island into one of the more beautiful places in the planet, due to the endless possibilities that Lanzarote had to offer," he wrote. Bruce Keller relaxes on a Lanzarote volcanic rock chair. This vision came true. It is impossible to imagine today's Lanzarote without Manrique. We paid homage to this brilliant man one full day's tour of his beautiful island. The Lagomar Bar, Restaurant and Museum is a popular place to watch Lanzarote's ocean, birdlife and sunsets. In the ancient capital of Villa de Teguise, we strolled charming churches and impressive monuments, then headed to spectacular island views from the Lagomar Museum and Bar. We explored another prime vantage point -- Peñas del Chach -- and visited an aloe vera plantation. At Jameos del Agua with its unique volcanic tunnel and caverns, we sat in on the end of a string trio's sound test in an inspiring underground concert hall designed by Manrique. It was a stunning experience and we hoped that the island's own maestro was listening. viator.com/tours/Lanzarote Cookie makes use of the aloe's healing juice, applying small cubes to her hands and face UP NEXT: "The Music Man" is one of America's classic musicals and a favorite of Cookie's and Keller's. Cookie was a young girl when she first saw the captivating story of a con man posing as a band leader. It swept her away -- along with Marian the Librarian, whom Harold Hill romances and finds himself changed. We attend the opening of this classic at Welk Resort Theatre. Join us, remembering to explore, learn and live. And catch us each weekend for a novel approach to the arts and nature-driven travel. Welk Resort Theatre in northeast San Diego County, opens "The Music Man" tonight, for a long run through July 23. -- photo by Ken Jacques

This happy reveler resides in Harrah's, a popular New Orleans casino, completely decorated in Mardi Gras motif. Cookie and keller take time out from Carnival  in Rio, for a water break with a new friend. LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL, BABY, WITH FUN, FUN, FUN TIMES GALORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Balloons, treats and masks mark carnival time in Rio.  WE'VE ENJOYED FUN  Mardi Gras in Germany, in Rio, in New Orleans and in our winter base here in San Diego. This year’s Mardi Gras comes just a few days before Saint Patrick's Day -- which we've had the pleasure of celebrating in Chicago, Dublin, and Butte, Montana! Humans, it seems, need to celebrate, whether in festivals marked by feathers, elaborate costumes, balloons, beads and booze -- or in parades, feasts and dancing. Mardi Gras signals that spring is coming and that frenzy -- after our brutal North American winter -- is underway. MARDI GRAS  is one of the craziest and largest parties in the U.S., and no city takes Mardi Gras more seriously than New Orleans.  Even during our visit two months ago, hotels were fully booked for this week.   Every year, partygoers by the hundreds flock to New Orleans to partake of  the floats, festivities and food, and leave their money and mark on the Big Easy.  We were happy to find the city party-loving spirit intact, despite an arduous recovery from Hurricane Katrina. A Rio street vendor serves up a Mardi Gras coconut.  MARDI GRAS  means “Fat Tuesday” in French, and is observed in many places around the world, including Rio, which we also visited on an eye-opening Brazil trip. The day's origins are in medieval Europe and ancient Rome. Like Christmas, it has its roots in pagan traditions. Again, as with Christmas, religious leaders hedged their bets and let the pagas party and dance, incorporating pagan traditions into Christianity. EVENTUALLY , the celebration spread from Rome across Europe to the New World. Those party-loving southerners made Mardi Gras a legal holiday in Louisiana in 1875, where parades and celebrations continue right on through Ash Wednesday and Lent, past St. Patrick's Day and into Easter. Then it's spring and an excuse for more partying to July Fourth! WHILE MARDI  Gras is not universally celebrated across the U.S. many cities and regions in the U.S. have flashy celebrations, because of the French, Spanish, and colonial influences through the settling years of their history. The earliest documented Carnival celebration in North America was on the west bank of the Mississippi river about 60 miles downriver from present-day New Orleans. THAT MARDI GRAS was March 3, 1699. In honor of this holiday, Iberville named the spot Point du Mardi Gras, or Mardi Gras Point. Other early celebrations occurred in Mobile, Biloxi, Pensacola and on the east coast in New York and Boston. Chicago has a rollicking Mardi Gras. The partying usually extends several days and has become known as "the Carnival season" a last hurrah before the days of penance observed by some between Ash Wednesday and Easter Sunday. CRUISE SHIPS celebrate Mardi Gras with all the trappings of land-locked revelry. The familiar traditions include bead throwing, mask wearing and coconut painting, all widely practiced today.The mask tradition derives from revelers' desire to escape constraints of class and society. Mask wearers could easily mingle with people of different classes and be whomever they desired, at least for a few days. Cookie and Keller direct traffic with "King Neptune" on a shipboard passage through the mid-Atlantic. IN NEW ORLEANS , float riders are required to have a mask on. On Fat Tuesday, masking is legal for all Mardi Gras attendees – although   store owners often post signs asking those entering to kindly remove their masks first.   FLAMBEAUX  or flaming torches, dates to the pre-electricity days when celebrants carried rope soaked in pitch then set alight. That way, party goers could continue merry-making past dark. Slaves were the original torch bearers and earned coins tossed their way as thanks for lighting the way for the floats. Today's torch bearers often dance and spin their kerosene lights, earning sometimes hundreds of dollars during a parade. The good times roll down the crowded streets of New Orleans last Mardi Gras. THE THROWING  of beads was the idea of the king of the a carnival in 1872. He chose royal colors: purple for justice, gold for power and green for faith. The plan was to toss the color to people exhibiting the color’s meaning. The beads were glass! Today's beads are mostly plastic and the color-coded meaning has gone by the wayside but beads live on as a staple of Mardi Gras worldwide. This carnival king directs his way through the crowds.  MANY CARNIVAL  towns name a king.  He is usually called Rex.  The first New Orleans king was crowned in 1872, and that he was the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, who during a visit to the U.S. befriended U.S. Army Col. George Custer.  The Civil Was hot shot met his end in my native state of Montana four years later. Oak Alley Plantation boasts 28 300-year old oak trees. COMING SOON : While we're in a New Orleans frame of mind, we visit Oak Alley Plantation and tackle the complex issue of slavery with a consideration of what we might learn from preserving this beautiful plantation. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

VISIT TO GRAND DAME SHIP REKINDLES DREAMS OF HER GLORY DAYS   The Queen Mary is aglow with lights and a special Diana Exhibit, along with her hotel and dining options. Parties are a Queen Mary tradition; these two "put on the Ritz." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IN MY DREAMS , I'm holding my grandmother's white-gloved hand as we enter the reception area of the Queen Mary.  It's the 1950s and I'm a little girl.  We're setting off on a glamorous  Atlantic crossing, then for foreign ports, elaborate dinners, strolls on the wide teak deck and lively music sessions in the salon. This anchor is part of the many displays in the Queen Mary's many rooms. I EXPLAIN  my long love of cruising on this  vivid recurring dream -- because I've cruised 102 times now.  I love everything about going to the sea in a luxury ship:  bon voyage parties followed by a leisurely Atlantic crossing,  elegantly served meals, en suite flowers, champagne chilling in a silver bucket, a string quartet serenading as we sip cocktails. RECENTLY  we partook of all that, admiring the waves and formally dressed clientele aboard the Queen Mary. Her grand crossing days are over. She's no longer navigating the seas as the world's most popular and prestigious ocean-liner.  But the Queen is still very much a royal part of liner lore, well worth a visit and overnight. WE SPENT a morning with the ship's nattily dressed Commodore, whose passion for the sea is apparent in his every comment and gesture. Beautifully attired in his dress whites, Commodore Everette Hoard stopped to sign memorabilia and programs for guests, to pose for photos and point out many of the ship's fascinating and historical items. IN ONE PART  of the ship, a huge mural of the royalty and movie stars who crossed on her extends across a large wall. Hollywood luminaries, diplomats, and wealthy fans of ocean liner elegance crossed the Atlantic on Queen Mary. Wind whipped the decks as Cookie toured the Queen Mary  with partner Keller and friends, Bob and Sue Hulbert. Commodore Everette Hoard guided them around.   David Niven loved her, as did Bob Hope and Clark Gable, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and the great Winston Churchill, after whom the ship's top restaurant is named. OUR ACCOMMODATING  Commodore took us touring, kindly including a stop at Winston's where he invited me to play the piano on which Cole Porter entertained during his happy crossings.  It is kept perfectly tuned, regularly played and is an enduring, musical symbol of the Queen's class, elegance and style. Nostalgia seekers will find plenty of vintage equipment to admire.  The Queen is also a dog-friendly hotel with several restaurants, an abundance of tours and venues, a spa, several pianos, and plenty of nostalgia. DURING OUR  three days aboard, we watched glorious Long Beach sunsets and sunrises from our stateroom and up on deck.  We delighted in couples dressed in nostalgic '30s and '40s costumes. The Queen is a well loved, iconic part of life in this port town; many guests dress in vintage clothes to enjoy her and she is beloved as a special-events venue. Winston's is the most elegant of three dining venues aboard Queen Mary. THE GRANDEUR began in spring of 1936, when the Queen Mary departed from Southampton, England embarking on her maiden voyage. The sold-out crossing was elegant and word quickly spread on both sides of the Atlantic --  about the five dining areas and glamorous lounges, pretty cocktail bars, huge swimming pools, grand ballroom, expansive promenades, even a squash court and small hospital. The Queen quickly came to represent a benchmark in transatlantic travel. Before jet travel, the rich and famous considered it the only civilized way to travel and she "seized the hearts and imaginations of the public on both sides of the Atlantic," according to the Commodore. Visitors are welcome to wander the decks, get close-up to the equipment, enjoy changing exhibits as well. For three years after her maiden voyage, the Queen Mary was the grandest ocean liner in the world but her greatest calling came during World War II, when she became "the grey ghost," helping win the war for the Allies. Winston's on the Queen Mary, a top restaurant named after the prime minister who helped  save England from the Nazis. When the Queen Mary docked in New York in September 1939, it was the last time she would carry civilian passengers for nearly eight years.    She was overhauled for the troops, painted a camouflaged grey color and stripped of her luxurious amenities. Dubbed the "Grey Ghost" because of her stealth and stark color, the Queen Mary was the largest and fastest troopship to sail, capable of transporting as many as 16,000 troops at 30 knots.  They slept and ate in shifts -- so large were their numbers.  Many believe the Queen and the troops she carried helped end the war. To book a tour or room: www.queenmary.longbeach.com Fun activity in Long Beach: www.aquariumofpacific.org COMING UP:  The Queen Mary sailed another 20 years as a passenger liner after her war service, and continues into the 21st Century at the age of nearly 80, as a delightful floating hotel with a world class restaurant, Winston's, named after a frequent guest, UK's popular prime minister Winston Churchill. Her teak desks are still beautiful and her bridge is kept shining. Commodore Everette Hoard sees that she is alive, well and continuing her proud legacy. Then we offer tips on renting a car abroad. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

FABULOUS CONCERT, GREAT TOUR WITH 'GET YOUR GUIDE' -- A SPLENDID DAY Elvin Dhimitri turns a page on a score, backed by one of two second violinists, partly hidden at left, with his violist near mirror, and cellist, seated at right.  Each of six musicians participated in a stunning concert. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The second violinists enter the stage for an encore . MUSIC CHANGED my life when I was a three year old, watching spellbound as the great Jascha Heifetz play Paganini.  I was mesmerized. I wanted to play the violin. And did, although piano is my main instrument. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers arrive for the concert. Music continues to enhance and guide my life.  It has taken me to concert halls, jazz clubs, orchestra pits and dressing rooms.  It has opened doors, introduced me to fellow musicians and music lovers around the world.  Music has made friends on ships, trains   and even airplanes, when I played a keyboard long ago on the topside cocktail lounge of a glorious Boeing 747. The first-class cabin sang show tunes all the way from Los Angeles to New York. The soloist, Elvin Dhimitri, and Cookie after the concert. Both all smiles, a wonderful night following a terrific day tour with Get Your Guide. A RECENT NIGHT TO remember rocketed to the top of   my "most memorable" concert list.  It shines next to Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga's Radio City Music Hall farewell. The concert featured brilliant violinist Elvin Dhimitri, considered by many as one of Italy's finest living violinists. Bruce Keller secretly purchased a pair of tickets to Dhimitri's "Le Quattro Stagioni," better known to the English speaking world as "The Four Seasons," Vivaldi's masterpiece. The famous concertos composed in 1723, are the world's most popular pieces of Baroque music and broke ground with their lyrical depiction of the   changing seasons. "Keller and Cookie" peak out from behind a poster advertising the Vivaldi concert.  It will run through mid-December, so if you're in Rome, don't miss it. Opera E Lirica sponsors. The pieces are famous for their flourish and technical innovations. Dhimitri's dazzling technique brought the works to a mesmerized house on a hot late-August evening. His immaculately honed technique and unflappable stage presence transported the audience into a dream world. As a fellow concert goer said, "He played as if possessed by a holy spirit, a musical genius under a spell." A PERFECT RAPPORT with his gifted players was sustained in frequent eye contact. His ensemble includes two second violins, a violist, cellist and harpsichord so we had the pleasure of hearing six superbly talented musicians. THE DAY Tour walk with GetYourGuide was terrific -- amiable guide, knowledgeable and fun to point out new things about places we'd been before. THEN THE  EVENING  was charmed from beginning to end.  Keller and I took a taxi from our hotel to the venue, stopping for a glass of wine for me, a beer for Keller, at the Sala Verdi concert hall, inside the gracious Hotel Quirinale, a treasure of its own built in 1865 near the Piazza Venezia. It's in the heart of Roma, five minutes from the Colosseum and just a bit farther to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. WE HAD  hoped to hear the concert in Church of San Francesco Caravita but temperatures of near 100 degrees forced moving it to the cooler hotel concert hall, with its equally fine acoustics and plenty of history to entertain concert goers before the show began.   Violinist Jascha Heifetz performed at Fox Theatre in the early 1950s when Cookie was a little girl. We in the audience were from all over the globe: India, Japan, France, Germany, Norway, Australia, greeted by a lovely Eliana, who scanned our tickets and had an assistant guide us to our second-row seats.  I could feel the presence of my grandmother, a fine pianist and  accompanist, and my mother, who also played piano and was an accomplished violinist.  She and another old friend, Eloise Kirk, played fiddle in the Montana State University Orchestra in Bozeman. Each was  pregnant with their first child -- Eloise had her son John and my mother had me. A lifelong love of music began at birth -- or likely before -- for Cookie, whose musical mother and grandmother greatly influence her. THE EVENING was too brief. There were three sets of gracious applause-filled bows, followed by exits.  Then Dhimitri appeared again to cheers, and ushered his ensemble back on stage. After a generous encore  -- more Vivaldi, a precisely rendered section of "The Four Seasons" -- the musicians took a final bow and exited. A beautiful harpsichord was much photographed after the standing-ovation crowd. By good fortune, we were able to catch up to Dhimitri for a brief chat after his exhausting performance.  He was gracious and accommodating, put his violin case down to pose for photos and answer a couple questions. He believes in daily practice, like Heifetz, and off stage showed himself to be a gentleman of elegance, discipline and gracious demeanor. The audience would have enjoyed another 90 minutes, but the maestro and his five faithful and equally gifted players, are doing several shows a week through mid December. So the evening sadly ended. Tickets are reasonably priced for this masterful program, from 15 Euros to 50 Euros. If you're in Rome and have the Roma pass, ask for the "Roma Pass" discount. If you're in Europe, call +39 338 12 18 424. www.opera-lirica.com For a fun, reasonably priced tour in many cities worldwide: GetYourGuide.com   The rocky seashore of Madeira is only one of its charms. The beautiful Portuguese island has been popular with Europeans and sun-seekers from Britain for decades.  NEXT UP:  Madeira. It sounds lovely and it is. Long a favorite of visitors from the UK, this Portuguese island is now popular with tourists from all over the world. This gorgeous island is located in the Atlantic Ocean, 1,000 kilometers from the Portuguese mainland. The picturesque island is part of the Madeira Islands group. Besides the wine for which it is famous, it offers beach activities, beautiful hotels and restaurants, historic monuments, and fabulous botanical gardens.  Come along with us, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more.

Rungstedlund, the estate where Karen Blixen lived most all her life except the 17 years in Africa.  She was born Karen Christentze Dinesen and wrote as Isak Dinesen.  'Out of Africa' author wrote 'Gothic Tales,' reflected on a life with lions and her lover after returning to her Danish homeland STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" and courtesy film producer Sydney Pollack estate Karen Blixen returned to Denmark after her lover was killed in a plane crash in Africa. WRITER KAREN  Blixen's Rungstedlund, Denmark, home is a mini museum of the art she loved. She might have stayed in Africa at her coffee plantation with her partner, writing about the lions she loved, had he not died in a plane crash.  After Denys Finch Hatton perished in his Gypsy Moth in 1931, the Danish born writer lost her spirit, and returned to her homeland to recharge and reflect. The Blixen Museum's gardens provide fresh flowers for the home. Visiting Karen Blixen's home Rungstedlund, Denmark Long fans of her writing, we decided to make the trip to Rungstedlund, the Karen Blixen Museum. On a warm but rainy Denmark day, we took the convenient fast train from our base in the coastal village of Vedbaek, two stops to Rungsted, where Blixen died in 1962. BARONESS AND  famous author Blixen was born Karen Christence Dinesen, at the family residence, Rungstedlund, on April 17 of 1885 . It would be decades before Karen Blixen's home in Rungstedlund, Denmark, became world famous. The property traces back to 1520, when it was owned by the Crown. Blixen's love of birds inspired her nesting sanctuary with 200 bird houses. Gorgeous beech trees -- some nearly 300 years old -- welcome visitors to stroll to or from the Karen Blixen Museum. The inn closed in 1803 and was owned by a wealthy farmer before Blixen's father bought it in 1879. Wilhelm Dinesen and Ingeborg Westenholz took up residency in 1881.  Dinesen was born in 1885 and became Karen Blixen after marrying Baron Bror Blixen, her Swedish second-cousin, in 1914. The two were temperamentally unsuited, he was unfaithful and gave her syphilis.  They divorced in 1921 and she returned to Denmark for treatment. Danish signs point the way to the museum and bird sanctuary. A bust of Blixen is a centerpiece in the home, open to tourists and part of the museum. Karen Blixen's grave is beneath a lovely beech tree. LEAVING THE  station, we walked along lovely streets, directed by understated signs. We saw dozens of brightly painted bird houses -- with lots of customers flitting in and out. These are among 200 nesting boxes attracting 40 different species of birds happily breeding where Blixen walked and wrote. Her love of birds inspired her 1958 decision to create a bird sanctuary. Rungstedlund's 40 acres of gardens and groves are much loved by Danes and worldwide visitors. We enjoyed the bird houses so much that we returned the same way, bidding adieu to Blixen on the estate's Ewalds Hill. She is buried there beneath a gigantic beech tree with a simple stone marker. The grove boasts trees up to 300 years old, named after people with a personal link to the house, including Albert Einstein. A poster for "Out of Africa" featuring Meryl Streep as Karen Blixen and Robert Redford as her lover. The 1985 movie, "Out of Africa," starred Meryl Streep and Robert Redford, and was a whimsical reflection on Blixen's life in Africa, where she learned Swahili. THE SANCTUARY  is supervised by the Danish Ornithological Society. We toured the house, which contains Blixen's art collection, furniture and a beautiful bust of her.  The oldest part of the home dates from 1680 when it was a combined inn and farm. Through the centuries, writers and artists visited. Poet Johannes Ewald Ewald lived there from 1773 to 1775, writing "The Delights of Rungsted, An Ode." The Karen Blixen Museum was founded in 1991 by Blixen's descendants and the Danish government. Hollywood made a movie about her life in Africa with her lover.  "Out of  Africa" starred Meryl Streep and Robert Redford and was a lyrical meditation on her 17 years at her Kenya coffee plantation where she communed with critters, earned the love of the people and learned to speak Swahili. UP NEXT : Faroe Islands? Where are they?  What language to they speak?  How does one get there? A sign in the in Klaksvik, during a hike. We enjoy fish and chips in the Faroe Islands, our next stop.  All that and more at the next whereiscookie.com Stay tuned, and remember to explore, learn and live as we visit these obscure but thriving islands in Scandinavia. Why has no one heard of these lovely islands?  Perhaps because, they are not easily accessible.   Check us out weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, performance and more. Remember, carpe diem.

Energy, enthusiasm, strong voices and high-stepping choreography make "The Music Man" a delight at Welk Resort Theatre. David Humphrey's swindling Professor Harold Hill charms the town -- and the audience -- in a joyful production of "The Music Man" at Welk Resort Theatre. Musicals and tribute shows are often on tap. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" and courtesy Ken Jacques Welk Resorts San Diego: Activities include lively theater If you're searching for a weekend getaway that blends relaxation, entertainment, and scenic beauty, Escondido might surprise you. Nestled within the expansive Welk Resorts property, the Welk Theater offers more than just a show -- it’s part of a full experience. Think peaceful surroundings, beautiful landscape, resort-style amenities and an evening of live entertainment to cap a perfect day. Cookie and Keller, center, met the spirit of Lawrence Welk in a poster behind them at the museum in Welk Resort Theatre. Their fellow musical theater fans are Melody and Larry Cogsdill, left, and Chuck and Cathy Colclasure. WHEN PROFESSOR  Harold Hill steps out of the train, promising to give Iowa a try with his roving flim-flam operation, we know we're in for a treat of Welk Resorts San Diego activities. We smile as he romances Marian the Librarian, breathing life into the stodgy town of River City and giving young grieving Winthrop hope.  The whole town comes alive -- and so do we, the happy audience smitten by the spell this classic of American musical theater weaves. Welk Theater in Escondido is well worth the drive from San Diego, for its nature setting and a series of fine musicals and tribute shows. Contact: thewelksandiego.com Welk Resort Theater, north of San Diego, does Meredith Wilson's legacy proud.  Its version of the 1962 Tony Award winner is larger than life, befitting its charismatic leading man. I GREW UP  with Broadway musicals and have long loved the tale of the swindler reborn with the love of a good woman (with the voice of an angel.) The two leads are masterfully played by David S. Humphrey as Harold Hill and Charlene K. Wilkinson as Marian.  While he's going straight, she's discovering the joys of love and romance. It's a pleasure to watch their chemistry develop. Robin LaValley as the Mayor Shinn's wife, Eulalee, is a comedic hoot, backed by the other lively Pick-a-Little gossips.  Bobby Chiu's Winthrop is endearing as he emerges from his cocoon of sorrow, and the Barber shoppers are a harmonic delight. Direction and choreography by Ray Limon is old-fashioned musical theater at its best -- full of energy with the ability to place us in the heart of the story. WE SIX JUNKIES of musical theater loved it. Check out Welk Theater and enjoy the journey! thewelksandiego.com Roustabouts: New Theater Company Makes an Impressive Debut Ruff Yeager created a determined, egotistical and believable professor in his character, Anton Myrvold, in a world premiere, "Margin of Error," by the new company, Roustabouts. . Four talented actors did honor in the world premiere of a new company in San Diego. Roustabouts debuted at Horton Plaza's Lyceum and moves to Diversionary for a second work. BRAVO, ROUSTABOUTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO MORE! Joel Miller is Gray Foxberry and Roxane Carrasco is Sunita Myrvold in a new company's premiere play. IT IS ALWAYS  a pleasure to add a new theater to our engaging and diverse list of troupes. San Diego's balmy weather produces more than avocados and surfers. The theatrical offerings are impressive. A new company, the Roustabouts Theatre Company, recently debuted and its first production is an enticing promise of brilliant collaborations with more to come.   A beautifully rendered opening production, "Margin of Error," was directed by veteran San Diego actor Rosina Reynolds. Her daughter, Kate Rose Reynolds, is featured in the play. ion. Kate Rose Reynolds is Britt Carlsson in Roustabouts premiere production. Two more ` works are planned this first season. The work is a fast paced drama that explores issues of morality, science, loyalty and politics in the academic world. Beautiful language by Will Cooper, a Roustabout founder, with nuanced direction by the versatile Reynolds make it clear that Roustabouts will be a major contender in San Diego's burgeoning theatrical repertoire. THE TROUPE'S second show will be the new comedy “Withering Heights” (yes a spoof on Emily Bronte's "Wuthering Heights.") "The Search for Signs of Intelligent Life in the Universe" follows, originated by Lily Tomlin and written by her longtime partner and collaborator Jane Wagner . Extraordinary violinist and storyteller Yale Strom promises more klezmer treats at the upcoming Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival, celebrating its 24th season. UP NEXT : The talent and pleasures of the annual Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival are upon us. Check out the array of performances, from Yale Strom's freewheeling Klezmer Summit, to Yiddish vocals and pop tunes, theater, readings, art and more. We've written about this festival for several years and its 24th season of treats is coming up in June.  Check it out at the Lyceum and elsewhere then mark your dance cards for spectacular work. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekly for a fresh look at performance, travel, nature and more. If this destination sparked your wanderlust, there’s plenty more waiting for you to explore more travel stories, tips and inspiration at WhereIsCookie.com

Lawrence Welk Resort, north of San Diego, California, offers housing options, restaurants, theater, golf and a charming little museum with artfully displayed memorabilia from the long-running television show, here Welk's accordion. Cookie explores the grounds near the theater entrance. It may be snowing elsewhere in the U.S., but SoCal is lovely. Christmas under the palms and mesquites appeals! "Plaid Tidings" ushers in the yule, at Lawrence Welk Resort near San Diego. Tucked away in the rolling hills of North County San Diego, the Welk Theater in Escondido feels like a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. From the moment you step inside, there’s a sense of timeless charm that sets it apart from larger, more commercial venues. Whether you're a fan of classic musicals, live performances, or simply looking for a unique night out, this theater offers an experience that feels both personal and unforgettable. WELK RESORT FEATURES SNAPPY THEATER, GOLF, DINING, LODGING, MUSEUM OF MAESTRO'S MEMORABILIA STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ANYONE WHO  grew up in the 1950s and had access to television, remembers "The Lawrence Welk Show."  When the final episode aired in spring of 1982, many families felt they had lost a friend and were saddened -- mine included. The Welk Resort is an attractive, activity-focused hotel complex with luxury villas, a theater, golf course, and many other amenities. Spending a pleasantly innocent hour with Welk's "Family," as he called it, had become tradition  There were "the lovely Lennon Sisters" with their precise and pleasing harmonies, Myron Floren with his dazzling accordion work, the warbling  "champagne lady" Norma Zimmer, singer and saxophone player Dick Dale, Larry Hooper with his bouncy baritone and Arthur Duncan, the dazzling tap dancer who wowed us with his triple time steps.  Of course, there was Lawrence Welk himself, dancing with the ladies and leading the band, signing off with that famous champagne-cork cheek pop of his finger in his mouth. The Lawrence Welk Resort has a small but interesting museum in its theater.  It promises to bring back memories of Welk's popular TV shows. SINCE I BECAME  a part-time Californian, I've wanted to visit the Welk Theater Escondido and Resort north of our San Diego home. This activity-focused hotel has a variety of housing options, including villas and a comfortable, pretty theater.  It is situated north of San Diego, on 450 acres and is only 15 miles from San Diego Zoo’s famous Safari Park. If you have kids or grandchildren, Legoland beckons, too, just over 17 miles away. Keller takes a look at  one of the cameras from the long-running ABC show, which taped its finale in 1982, but is alive and well in re-runs on Public Television. Theater buffs, we booked tickets to a winning production of "Sweet Charity."  We arrived in time to enjoy a beverage in the lobby, which is home to an engaging, small museum of Welk memorabilia.  We enjoyed the posters, display cases with musical instruments, and vintage posters tracing Welk's rise from Dakota farm kid to internationally known band leader. Lawrence Welk's posters adorn the museum. WE WERE  delighted that the production of the Tony-winning "Sweet Charity" featured top-caliber dancing, snappy direction and fine voices. We're looking forward to "Plaid Tidings" to celebrate the holiday, with a run that began Thanksgiving weekend and continues through to New Year's Eve. A rousing production of "Sweet Charity" entertained Cookie and Keller. A tuneful holiday show, "Plaid "Tidings," is on tap through the holidays. The legendary Plaids, known for their close and "feel-good harmonies," return to planet Earth with a show guaranteed to spread yuletide cheer.as the promo says, to spread yuletide joy with the greatest holiday hits of the ages. The new show offers the same format as the hit "Forever Plaid,"  featuring holiday standards that have all been “Plaid-erized.”  The harmonious quartet is called back to earth by a heavenly Rosemary Clooney, who tells them their harmonies are needed to help heal our discordant world. Sprinkled among the yuletide offerings are audience favorites, including a three-minute version of The Ed Sullivan Show with the Rockettes, the Chipmunks and The Vienna Boys Choir, as well as a Plaid Caribbean Christmas that puts the "Day-O" in Excelsis! Sounds like a perfectly mixed holiday cocktail! Check out the holiday show at   www.welkresorts.com/san-diego/theatre/ Debbie Reynolds, left, and her daughter Carrie Fisher. whereisCookie.com reflects on their relationship and contributions next. UP NEXT:     The sad news of Carrie Fisher's death, then her mother's, has left their fans -- including Cookie -- deeply saddened.  Christene Meyers reminisces about Fisher's talent and courage, and her difficult relationship with her famous mum, Debbie Reynolds. The two talents and their complex lives moved millions, including Cookie, who interviewed them both -- 40 years apart. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out each weekend for an original take on the arts and travel.

The Sphere stands out in the Las Vegas Skyline, as a beacon of what to expect in the next years in performance venues, concerts, shows and enhanced movies. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" Rising from the Las Vegas skyline like something out of a sci-fi movie, the Sphere at The Venetian Resort is one of the most talked-about attractions in the world right now—and for good reason. From the outside, it’s a glowing, ever-changing digital canvas. But step inside, and you’ll find a fully immersive experience that blends cutting-edge technology with storytelling in a way that completely redefines live entertainment. Whether you’re planning your first visit or wondering if it’s worth the hype, this guide breaks down what to expect, how to plan your visit, and why the Sphere deserves a spot on your Las Vegas itinerary. Inside its massive auditorium, cutting-edge AI creates an immersive, 16K visual and multi-sensory experience that blurs the line between film and virtual reality. Our introduction to this multi-billion-dollar wonder was the "Supersized" version of "The Wizard of Oz." It brought the beloved story to life in dazzling new ways. In this shortened and pumped up version of the familiar 1939 movie, foam apples fell from the sky. The villains crept in from behind us. The Wicked Witch flew and cackled above our heads. The Yellow Brick Road unfolded in undulating curves -- larger than any cinematic version we'd ever seen. The Cowardly Lion, Scarecrow and Tin Man were touchable and endearing. Dorothy's "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" song had the audience in tears. The Las Vegas Sphere: A Monument to AI and Pure Imagination I'm an AI sceptic, slowly embracing technology with a mix of suspicion and enthusiasm. But I fell in love with The Sphere in Las Vegas. Readers know I have a lifelong affection for architecture, museums, aquariums, theater, and gardens. I love anything that pushes the boundaries of imagination. The Sphere is a breathtaking blend of many elements, a spectacular fusion of technology and artistic vision that provokes and satisfies all the senses. Las Vegas does that, too, but the Sphere takes it over-the-top to a new level. It is, literally, the world's largest LED screen wrapped around a massive dome, a canvas for digital dreams. It is definitely not a static building; this is a living, breathing work of art. A Masterpiece of Machine Hallucination The real magic, the part that captured our imagination, is the AI art gracing the Exosphere (that's the outside, for the uninitiated!). Visionary artist Refik Anadol used seven years of AI research to create his "Machine Hallucinations" series. It is a visual feast and we see it anew each day. Imagine this: AI algorithms are "learning" and culling from millions of images and data, then "dreaming" in mesmerizing, fluid patterns. The result is a constantly shifting tapestry of color and light that seems to defy logic. It's not just a big screen; it's a peek into "alternative realities," as Anadol himself puts it. The mathematical challenge of making flat images wrap perfectly around a sphere was "incredibly inspiring" for his team, he said. It highlights how human ingenuity collaborates with AI collaboration to create the unprecedented. If it makes you a bit uneasy, relax and enjoy. It's the future. After the performance or film, the gift shop and exhibition space continues the fun. Beyond the Visuals Inside, the wonder continues. The Sphere is designed to immerse you, going far beyond traditional viewing. My inner theater critic was thrilled by the sheer scale and ingenuity. The project with The Wizard of Oz , for instance, used groundbreaking AI to upscale and expand the 1939 classic, respecting the original vision while using modern magic. It shows that AI isn't just about the future; it's about honoring the past and bringing it to life in vibrant new ways. The Sphere is more than an architectural marvel; it's a cultural phenomenon, a powerful symbol of what can transpire when art, engineering, and artificial intelligence converge. It speaks to our universal desire to be awed, to dream, and to push the boundaries of what is possible. spere interior 3 stories tall like a maze Come Along, Won't You? If you're planning a trip to Vegas, make time for this wonder. It is a must-see stop that delivers a multi-sensory experience unlike any other. The colors are out of this world, the scale is breathtaking, and the sheer audacity of the project is a testament to human creativity. We plan to take in a concert on our next visit. Will be fun to see what the Sphere does to a performance. And we'd love to see more movies. Imagine our favorite musicals in the Sphere. "Sound of Music," "South Pacific," "Oklahoma," "My Fair Lady," "Cabaret" and "Oliver'' could be astounding. See the Exosphere: The exterior is a free show that changes constantly. We enjoyed it from our hotel room on the 60th floor of Elara. Catch a Show: Experience the immersive potential inside the venue. As the world continues to evolve, the Sphere stands as a beacon of innovation and artistry. It’s a spectacular adventure, and we can't wait to see what it does next! Catch you next week for a fresh take on travel, the arts, and adventure on our blog. Remember to explore, learn and live! Carpe diem, tempus fugit! COMING SOON: We drive south to Scottsdale for a look at the spectacular Desert Botanical Garden, where tourists and locals alike are surrounded by desert beauty. We share the fun of a ghost tour in San Diego and spread the word about other ghost tours around the U.S. With joy and roadmaps, we celebrate the 100th anniversary of Route 66. We eat a happy trail through Waikiki then we climb into the caves of Sassi in southern Italy, where families lived with their livestock until the late 1950s. All that and more. Remember to explore, learn and live. Carpe diem. Tempus fugit. And please share the links.

The Wapiti Valley offers a beautiful drive in splendid fall weather, with changing colors, elk on the move and more. FALL ROAD TRIP IS JUST THE TICKET FOR A QUICK GET-AWAY-- WITH YORKIES, SCENERY AND ELK Elk -- here a bull with his harem -- live in large numbers in Wapiti, a Cree Indian word which means "elk" -- makes sense, doesn't it? STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Nick and Nora enjoyed the Wapiti sun, and a dog-friendly stay. Yellowstone Valley Inn and RV Park offers rustic, comfortable  cabins, some dog friendly, and a splendid buffet breakfast. THE DRIVE  through the Wapiti Valley yields plenty of wildlife, including the elk which gave this gorgeous corner of the Rockies its name. Wapiti is Cree for elk! Trees are turning in the Wapiti Valley creating a fall colors bonanza. What could be romantic than driving through the autumn scenery with your honey, your Yorkies and gorgeous views? Ah, it's contentment with a capital "C." FOR YEARS,  I've loved this corner of Wyoming. I've seen more bears near the East Entrance of Yellowstone National Park than I've seen anywhere else in the park. We've also seen abundant elk, spectacular rock ridges, beautiful turn-outs along the Shoshone River, and an eccentric house atop a hill. You've probably wondered about the house; you can't miss it. It's an eye catching jumble of styles and daring techniques -- and this time through, I decided to do a bit of homework. The Smith Mansion is a sight to behold from the nearby road through Wapiti.  THE SMITH MANSION,  sometimes known as "the crazy house," stands high in the beautiful Wapiti Valley, closer to the park than to Cody. It is a piece of the Wapiti Valley's colorful history with as many stories about it as there are old timers to tell them.  Stop in any of the lodgings or restaurants along the drive and you'll get an interesting tale or two. According to a newspaper article, in which Sunny Larsen was interviewed,  The Wapiti Valley can be a base or an entry point for exploring nearby Yellowstone and Teton National Parks. the house was built by her father, talented architect and engineer, Francis Lee Smith.  Sadly, he died at age 48 from a fall in 2002, preferring to do his own work himself on the dangerous ledges in Wyoming's winds. THE PLACE  is for sure a piece of artwork left for the public, built by the late Architect/Engineer: Francis Lee Smith. Smith's daughter, who grew up in the home, began The Smith Mansion Preservation Project which is in full swing.  She wants her children and theirs to be able to enjoy the home, which is falling into disrepair and has been vandalized.  Elk antlers grace many lamps and chandeliers in the Wapiti Valley. IT'S JUST one of the picturesque sights you'll encounter in the Wapiti Valley (also called East Yellowstone Valley).  For my pleasure, the drive is an hour plus of the prettiest driving around. It lies between Cody, Wyoming, and the aforementioned east entrance of Yellowstone, and you'll be driving on highway US 14-16-20. This 50 mile section of road is designated the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway. It meanders through some of Wyoming's prettiest areas and includes the Buffalo Bill Dam, Buffalo Bill State Park and the Shoshone National Forest, our nation’s first just as we claim Yellowstone Park's "first" status. The Buffalo Bill Dam, named after the famous impresario, Bill Cody, is worth a stop on your way between Cody and Yellowstone Park.  THE DAM visitor center is worth an hour's stop, and do watch for wildlife and interesting rock formations. You'll find a range of guest and dude ranches, motels, campgrounds, restaurants, and gas stations. The mix includes deluxe lodgings, simple campgrounds and smaller, more rustic inns such as the charming Yellowstone Valley Inn, right off the highway.   We had a fine, simple supper in the bar's fancy screening room. The kindly proprietor ushered us in, introduced us to a spirited waitress and hooked us up with Public Television for the finale of  "The Roosevelts," which we'd hated to have missed. (Our room had only "Direct TV" -- no PBS.)  This healthy bison was spotted on a road not originally planned for travel during a recent Yellowstone Park trek. He was so close we heard him breathing! IF YOU'RE  a hiker, you'll be in hiking heaven and the Wapiti also offers horseback riding, fishing, photo ops galore, rafting and boating, mountain biking and hunting.  During breakfast, we visited with couples from Texas and California, both making Wapiti Valley their base for visiting Yellowstone which was fully booked last week! COMING SOON:  The road less traveled!  Don't let yourself get in a rut.  If you always go to Old Faithful, try another destination in Yellowstone.  You might find more buffalo than you can shake your camera at.  Be prepared for surprise and turn change into a plus. If you're adventuresome and flexible, you'll enjoy whatever unfolds, even if it wasn't in the original plan. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

The harbor at Avalon, the major village in Catalina, is a colorful place to park your boat. California island offers restful, scenic time out-- the tune that made it famous lives on! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  " Twenty six miles across the sea, Santa Catalina is awaitin' for me, Santa Catalina, the island of romance, romance, romance, romance." Set sail for easy-going Catalina and you won't be sorry.      THE FOUR PREPS'  hit song of 1957 was inspired by singer Bruce Belland's teenage affection for Santa Catalina and spring baseball training. Living through a chilly Chicago winter as a kid, he was mesmerized by  newsreels of his beloved Chicago Cubs practicing under the swaying palms of a place he longed to visit. Many years later, the song came to him.  He was recovering from a broken limb and still fantasizing about "the island of romance, romance, romance." HIS SONG  made him -- and the island -- famous, inspiring Jimmy Buffet and many other singers with its comforting, tropical tone. Relaxation seekers board a Point Dana boat for Catalina. The pretty little island is only 21 miles long and eight miles wide, and the principal town is the picturesque Avalon, on Catalina's southeast corner. The smaller settlement of Two Harbors is on the other end, at Catalina's isthmus, northwest end. IT'S ACTUALLY  closer to 80 miles from San Diego, but whether you sail from Los Angeles, or farther south, be prepared for a beautiful look at the sea and a charming experience once you're there. You can reach Catalina by sea or air and crossing time by boat ranges from an hour or 90 minutes, to eight or 10 hours, depending from where you depart, and by what mode of transportation. You can go by sea or air and the Catalina Express is the most popular mode of transportation, departing from Dana Point, a lovely coastal town between San Diego and Los Angeles. Catalina's town of Avalon is tucked against the hills.  Many people take their private boats between the mainland and the island, which was likely settled about 2,500 years ago by the Gabrielino Indians. Historians believe they came there centuries ago, as early as 5000 B.C. Europeans didn't discover it until 1542, about 50 years after Columbus, when Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo found it during his quest for the mythical passage between the Atlantic and Pacific. "Water all around it everywhere  Tropical trees and the salty air  But for me the thing that's a-waitin' there -- romance" Young people from the mainland enjoy a weekend Catalina get-away. Today,Catalina is a get-away for families and couples.  It's pace is slower than the mainland's, and it's much closer than Hawaii, with several nice hotels and B&Bs, and a half-dozen or more excellent restaurants, ranging from nautical-themed pizza and chicken joints, to cocktail lounges, to steak and seafood places, and Italian complete with homemade pesto and extensive seafood and veal entrees. AS THE  song suggests, it is romantic, with fine beaches, inviting tennis courts, and places to hike, camp, golf and deep-sea fish. Bikes can be rented and everyone who lives there gets around in golf carts, helping maintain balance in the fragile environment. Cars are mostly not allowed on most of Catalina, so the locals and visitors use gold carts primarily. There is also a variety of adventure, undersea and glass-bottom boat options developed by Catalina Adventure Tours . IF YOU'RE  a history buff and are interested in steamships, you'll enjoy the Catalina Island Museum in Avalon, with its interactive exhibit chronicling the history of steamship transportation.  And our songwriting Mr. Belland would be happy to see that his beloved Chicago Cubs are immortalized in a part of the exhibi which focuses on their spring training. The William Wrigley family, of the chewing gum fortune, was responsible for much of the island's development as a resort and sport fishing paradise.  The Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Garden, two miles south of Avalon, honors Wrigley Jr., who was It's possible to truly get away in Catalina, especially off season! instrumental in the island's development and garden plans.  The beautiful garden features an extensive succulent collection. The Santa Catalina Island Conservancy helps preserve the island's native flora and fauna and now owns 88 per cent of the island. IT'S NOT  widely known, but it's a fact that bison inhabit Catalina, too. The Conservancy helps keep the herd to about 200 -- optimum for best survival -- down from the 400 that once grazed here. The bison history dates back to the 1920s when a half-dozen were brought here for a movie that was never made.  They've been in the news lately, because of a progressive birth control program introduced by the Conservancy, involving dart gun and effective birth control. " Forty kilometers in a leaky old boat  Any old thing that'll stay afloat  When we arrive we'll all promote romance, romance, romance, romance." This pretty building reflects the island's Mediterranean architecture.  TODAY's BOATS  are mostly yachts -- no leaks now -- and only tour buses and cars with permit stickers are allowed outside the Avalon area. If you want to see the bison, or go on a boat for fishing, snorkeling or pleasure, you'll need to go through Catalina Adventure Tours or Santa Catalina Island Company Discovery Tours. You can google the island for accommodations and find the range of hotels and eateries. The lovely Seacrest Inn, El Terado Terrace and Hotel Metropole caught our eyes while we were staying with friends.  The Catalina Courtyard Garden Wing has dog friendly digs in its pretty dozen A pelican stretches in the sun of Catalina Island. units.  Next time, we'll check that out with our Yorkies, Nick and Nora.  The Villa Portofino is on the ocean right in Avalon. And several smaller properties, including Hotel St. Lauren, MacRae and Atwater, look picturesque and welcoming, too. Check with the Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce and enjoy.  Just remember to "stay afloat" -- which you'll need to do in your pursuit of romance, romance, romance, romance! COMING NEXT Next up, a two-part feature on Montana -- splendid in its summer glory. First, on Saturday, we spotlight a popular eatery in the little town of Dean.  Montana Jack's Bar and Grill and the Stillwater Saloon draw crowds in a rural setting with an "uptown" menu and eel to it.  Then we take a look next time at the splendors under the Big Sky.  Then we're on to a bit of history on the Alberta Bair Museum, the largest performing arts complex in the northern Rockies.   Remember to explore, learn and live. And keep reading us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com