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Each room of Filoli is artfully decorated for the holidays. This one showcases a painting of the flower-loving second owner.   UNIQUE CALIFORNIA ESTATE DECKS THE HALLS WITH STORIES, LIGHTS, LEGACY, LOVE OF LAND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER FILOLI IS A WONDROUS place all year round, but the historic Bay Area setting truly decks the halls for the holidays -- inviting families, friends, tourists and regulars to share the wonder. Home, garden and nature preserve all in one, Filoli is tucked unobtrusively into the hills. Filoli is a country house set on a beautifully landscaped 16 acre estate.  Formal gardens and walking paths accent the grounds of the Woodside, California, mansion, built by the owner of one of the state's richest gold mines between 1915 and 1917 and lived in by only two appreciative families. Elegant holiday touches, including wreaths and trees, enhance the beauty and appeal of Filoli near San Francisco. You'll find Filoli nestled into the hillside as if it has always been there -- 25 miles south of San Francisco, at the southern end of Crystal Springs Reservoir, on the eastern slope of the beautiful Santa Cruz Mountains. A popular holiday show, “Luminous - A Celebration of Color and Light,” makes Filoli even more enticing this time of year. Each room is dressed in color-themed finery. A gorgeous garden light show pays tribute to the  lovers of Filoli who have kept it alive and alluring.  Surely they would be pleased. Penelope Margaret and James Brian Ganner survey the grounds in a late-autumn stroll at Filoli. WHEN WILLIAM  Bowers Bourn II decided to build Filoli more than 100 years ago, he called on the gifts of his artistic wife, Agnes Moody Bourn, to help with the design, a blend of Georgian and Colonian Revival styles. When I asked a docent the meaning of "Filoli," she told me: "Mr. Bourn came up with the name.  He decided on Filoli, which combined letters of his life’s credo: “Fight for a just cause; love your fellow man; live a good life." The last of the grand California estates built in the 20th Century, Filoli is today a property of the Writer "Cookie" Meyers and photographer Bruce Keller by a Filoli Christmas tree.   National Trust for Historic Preservation.  It remains the sole intact estate from an era when San Francisco’s wealthiest families created grand showplaces south of the city in the years after the 1906 earthquake. The visionary Bourn built for posterity. Filoli, he predicted, "could prove to be interesting a few hundred years from now.” Filoli's autumn splendor is enhanced by night with thousands of lights. Special  holiday tours are on tap. Filoli offers docent led tours throughout the year, with special treats in store at holiday time. The ground's chief horticulturist for three decades, Lucy Tolmach, says the charm of the place has to do in part with the landscape, an eye-catching variety of plantings, "everything from exotic Chinese tree peonies and European hornbeam trees to sturdy geraniums and old-fashioned roses." She describes the grounds as “exquisite and elegant without being fussy” and says the gardens, grasslands and redwoods “lend a measure of privacy and surprise.” The same could be said of the interior.  Impeccable craftsmanship and quality materials merge with pleasing personal touches -- paintings,  antiques, books, pianos -- to lend a "lived in" look. Ornate design elements make for a fascinating visit to Filoli. Through Dec. 23, visitors may join guided docent-led tours to learn about the history of the original owners and the second family, William and Lurline Roth, (she was a shipping heiress) who purchased it after the Bourns' deaths. She developed the extraordinary gardens. Both interesting families are brought to life, along with stories of holidays past and lavish celebrations. The estate is a popular wedding venue today. Concerts and special events are scheduled year-round. For the holidays, Santa is visiting, music acts are on tap, along with an artisan market. (650) 364-8300, press 1; filoli.org   This market in Barcelona featured everything from beautiful cheeses and jams to candles and wreaths. UP NEXT : Just back from a tour of the Mediterranean, we sample with you some of the food, festivities and markets that light up Europe during the holidays. It's a photo essay featuring a few of our favorite sights and meals -- with touches of red and green for the holiday. We hope you'll enjoy our tribute to the holidays --  whether you are having a low-key time at home or are planning your holiday away. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, and family.

Malta is an enticing, beautiful place, if you've been before, or have yet to go.  Here near the Blue Grotto, a series of lovely caverns carved by the wind and sea.  Malta is a friendly place, easily accessed from Italy.  WRITE YOUR OWN TICKET FOR THE NEW YEAR -- ISLANDS, PARKS, CITIES BECKON STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER If you've considered a wildlife expedition, go on line and look.  The options abound -- from Antarctica to Africa, the Galapagos and our fine national parks. IT'S FUN  at the beginning of a new year to ponder then plan the next year or two of travel. Because we're on the road so much, we book our trips two and three years ahead. Most people work only a year or a few months ahead. For us, planning is part of the fun. We don't book according to what's "hot" although many people do.  But it's always interesting to find out what's trending. Our homework often puts us ahead of the curve. American cities leading popular tourist spots list are New Orleans, and New York. Here, breakfast at "Nawlins'" Cafe du Monde. For 2019, the forecast for popular places are Cuba, Japan, Singapore, Italy (particularly Cinque Terre and Rome), Greece and Paris.  Prague and London are on the "hot spots" radar and Sydney, New Orleans and New York are again predicted to be popular with tourists in 2019. Pearl Seas Cruises offers an enticing 11-day cultural tour of Cuba, with more ports than any other line, here Havana. FIRST, NARROW  the field, make it fun for the travelers, whether couple, family or group of friends planning a holiday  -- domestic or abroad. From the music, food, cars and culture of Cuba to the rain forests of Peru and Brazil to the fjords of Norway or New Zealand, here are basic considerations: * City, beach or countryside? Lots to do or quiet, chill time. Cruising is a great option. * Hot, cold weather? Beach, skiing, diving, etc. * New adventure or pure relaxation? Educational? Cultural immersion? The Venetian harbor in Chania, Greece, is not well known by Americans but is a popular holiday spot for Europeans. * Shopping, culture or the rush of discovery? If you like theater, shows, opera or concerts, consider places like Prague, London, Vienna, New York and Las Vegas. Architecture, antiquities? Think Rome, Venice, Petra. Cuba is opened up now and Pearl Seas Cruises has a wonderful expansive itinerary aboard the smart, small Pearl Mist. Cairo is slowly cleaning up its act after the political unrest of the past decade? Turkey is coming back on the radar after cruise lines pulled out. * Budget savvy or going for broke? Somewhere in the middle? * Who's traveling? Family, friends,  partners, college buddies, boyfriend, girlfriend? Maybe you're traveling solo and want to meet people? * Independent travel, with room and time to strike out on your alone?  Or do you prefer everything organized and pre-paid for you Las Ramblas in Barcelona is a vibrant, lively place for culture, food, music. * Off the beaten track to a "undiscovered" place, or a tried and tested destination? ALWAYS BE  daring and creative, once you settle on basic preferences. If you truly want to see a place and can't coax anyone to come along, go solo. Put yourself out there and meet people. Look for singles-friendly tours. Or consider treating a niece, nephew, cousin, sib. Most cruises have singles happy hour every day. Think outside the box. If you have your heart set on Malta -- a clean, progressive and welcoming place with great food, pretty scenery and friendly people -- don't be put off if the flights are too high.  Fly to Rome, enjoy, then take a connecting flight or ferry to Malta. Architecture, antiquities, history lure us back to Rome multiple times, here for a pause at the famed, restored Trevi Fountain. HIT THE  library or book stores.  Stock up on brochures, travel books, magazines.  We keep a huge box of files, newspaper clips, magazine pieces with features on places of interest. We're big fans of Rick Steves and catch his helpful shows on Public Television. We also enjoy the Lonely Planet books -- and we hold out for the print edition, although Kindle is available. If you're "bucket-listing" remember the Seven Wonders of the World await. Colossus of Rhodes, Great Pyramid of Giza. Hanging Gardens of Babylon, Lighthouse of Alexandria, Mausoleum at Halicarnassus. Statue of Zeus at Olympia and the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus.   If you want to see the Amalfi coast as you've never seen it before, consider CBM Tours. The letters stand for Can't Be Missed and  you'll truly not be sorry.  You'll see little pockets of land and sea.   UP NEXT : While we're in a planning mode, consider a tour.  There are month-long tours, day trips, world cruises with all the details tended to.  We've been enjoying day trips the past few years, and came upon CBM Tours on this recent two-month foray on the Mediterranean and in southern Europe. Expert guides with extensive history backgrounds guide in small groups with interesting commentary and the ability to swing off the road into a view spot like the one at left on the Amalfi Coast. Remember to explore, learn and live.

When Vesuvius erupted, the explosion covered nearby Pompeii, but not as deeply as Ercolano, thus the preservation. ANCIENT RUINS OFFER INSIGHTS INTO CULTURE, HISTORY, LIFESTYLE OF FISHERMEN, ROMAN GENTRY  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Buried beneath the slopes of Vesuvius, Ercolano was once a thriving "vacation town" for wealthy Romans, who loved the countryside. Ercolano is approached from a busy tourist area, with plenty of restaurants lining the road to the ruins.   THE LOST  city of Herculaneum (Ercolano in Italian) was founded between the seventh and fifth centuries B.C. It was both a fishing village and a wealthy get-away -- the Palm Springs of its day -- a vacation enclave for well heeled Romans escaping city life. Cookie enters the path to Ercolano. By the time the 79 AD eruption  ended, Herculaneum was buried by 20 metres of volcanic material. Nearby Pompeii was buried by only five metres of volcanic material and thus deteriorated through the years while Ercolano remained virtually intact, "fossilized" for posterity. Most of the buildings in Pompeii collapsed in the fall of pumice stone while this didn't happen in Herculaneum.  So off we were to this lesser known product of the wrath of Vesuvius. Fast-moving pyroclastic flow (rock, hot gas and other volcanic matter) was the devastating result of the eruption, which killed all the residents of both settlements. The gas reached a temperature of over 1,830 degrees F. Bruce Keller poses above the lost then found village.   FROM FOUND documents, researchers learned that Ercolano was an ancient Roman fishing town also enjoyed by wealthy Romans, who vacationed or had lavish second homes in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. We were thrilled to read about the village and took a day trip from Napoli, Naples in English. First, we booked the direct express train from Rome to Naples, then switched to the Circumvesuviana train, a colorful ride out of Naples to the east of the city near Mount Vesuvius. The excitement of discovering a  village more than 2,000 years old awaits if you visit Herculaneum -- Ercolano in Italian. It's near Naples. WHAT WE FOUND  is rare. This tiny city, buried by the devastating eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79, has been carefully conserved to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Thanks to the pyroclastic surge, much of the organic based wood objects remained intact, so these archaeological treasures give a glimpse of life of both the fishermen and the wealthy Romans they fed. Mosaics, frescoes, artwork, and even dried fruit and vegetables were sealed in the mud and uncovered centuries later. Surprisingly, we found few tourists  here, halfway between the more frequented and touristy towns of Pompeii and Naples, home of pizza!    Although excavation began in the mid-1700s, earnest development of the site began only in the past 75 years. This peek into the past is sure to be rapidly discovered.  If you're in the vicinity, don't miss it. You can tie it in with a Vesuvius visit: vesuvioexpress.it Donkey Tours will take you off the beaten track, to wonders of Gaudi and Picasso, Roman ruins that not everyone knows about and much more.   UP NEXT : Heard of Donkey Tours Barcelona? Want up close and personal looks at the wonders of this exciting city, from Picasso's haunts to the best croissant in town, little known Roman ruins and paella to put your taste buds in happy overdrive. We share the delights of this wonderfully engaging tour group which prides itself in knowledgeable, fun guides. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a unique view of life with travel, the arts, nature and family.

With her sails unfurled, the world's oldest still functioning sailing vessel will soon take to San Diego Bay. WORLD'S OLDEST STILL OPERATIONAL SAILING VESSEL MAKES HISTORY AT 155 YEARS OLD STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The beautifully maintained Star of India at sea. FOR AS LONG as I've been a part-time San Diegan, the Star of India has been a beacon on the waterfront. She's a beautiful sight to behold, built in 1863 on the Isle of Man, and with many miles around the world under her majestic sails. The mint-condition, full-rigged iron windjammer will make a sail in San Diego Bay and out around Point Loma. "Royal" is the operative word, for the Star of India is truly sailing-ship royalty. She spent the first of a many-decades career transiting the sometimes rocky seas from Great Britain to India and New Zealand, hauling freight and whatever else was trading. Years later, she became a salmon hauler on the route from Alaska to California. With her sails unfurled, Star of India is a gorgeous sight to behold on San Diego Bay. THE STAR  of India was built in 1863 at Ramsey in the Isle of Man as Euterpe, a full-rigged iron windjammer ship. Sometime in the last century it was sold for a pittance to San Diego and languished in the harbor until 1957 when activists launched a movement to save her from further neglect. For the past decades she has sailed sometimes as often as once a year, with a crew of 60 and no more than 150 passengers. California recalls sailing's glory days  Five years have elapsed since the last time Star of India sailed, so the opportunity to join her under sail this November makes for a unique experience   Star of India is a lovely sight at night. On two days, Saturday and Sunday, Nov. 17 and 18, the Star of India sailing celebration takes place, including the rare opportunity to view the world's oldest active sailing vessel from aboard three other legendary sailing vessels. The trio of escort ships will join "Star" on the historic occasion as she sails through San Diego Bay and heads out off Point Loma. Guests may reserve tickets aboard the other vessels visitors find at the Maritime Museum for passage on: Keller was delighted to help keep the Californian sailing, since he has sailed for all his life and loves it! • Californian, the official tall ship of the state. • San Salvador, the 1542 Spanish galleon replica built in San Diego by staff and volunteers. • America, a replica of the historic yacht which won the America’s Cup in 1851. Tickets are $249 per person for all ages and includes a catered breakfast, lunch, drinks, and celebratory champagne. Each ship will carry an on-board historian to enhance guests’ understanding of Star of India, the history behind all vessels and the city's world famous Maritime Museum. Check-in is at 9 a.m. and ships will return to the Museum at 5 p.m. The San Diego skyline is the backdrop for the Maritime Museum. The museum sponsors many other activities and educational events throughout the year, including school tours and concerts.  The Hausmann String Quartet is on tap Nov. 11, the weekend before the Star of India companion sail.  The San Diego based quartet will play Haydn aboard the Berkeley, an San Diego's Hausmann Quartet is on tap, too. 1898 steam ferryboat which operated for 60 years on San Francisco Bay.  It -- like the Star of India and Berkeley -- is a national landmark, also part of the city's proud Maritime Museum fleet kept largely afloat by a devoted group of sailing enthusiasts and volunteers. Space is limited and includes admission to the Maritime Museum.  Haydn, known as the father of the string quartet, is an ideal choice for a pleasing afternoon in San Diego harbor. For more on the concert or Star of India sail, go to sdmaritime.org Cookie, left, and one Of  Rome's top guides, Lucilla Favino. UP NEXT : Southern Europe beckons now that summer is over and it's off season. Come enjoy Rome and other wonders when the air is crisp, the streets are not crowded and the monuments are open and welcoming. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel look on art, travel, music, theater, nature and family. California recalls sailing's glory days

Malta's famed Blue Grotto is an enchanting series of caves accessed by small boats to the delight of worldwide tourists. Mesmerize: to entrance, dazzle, bewitch, charm, captivate, enchant, fascinate, transfix, grip, bedazzle or hypnotize..... STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Come have a bite, perhaps the catch of the day, with vino. MALTA'S MYRIAD CHARMS  have an addictive quality.  In five visits, I've found myself wishing we'd stayed longer, eagerly planning the next visit. This small but interesting Mediterranean country is less than 100 kilometers from Sicily and has many Italian traits, including a love of churches.  Rabbits abound on Malta, so enjoy a rabbit stew.    Nearly everyone speaks Italian, but Maltese is the major language, a pleasing blend of several tongues, including Arabic, because of the proximity to Africa. Other languages are French and English. The country's closeness to two continents inspires Malta's art, music, architecture,  food and eclectic feel. Valletta at night  offers a beautiful sail-out.   Maltese society, striking architecture and 300-plus churches reflect centuries of foreign rule by the  Phoenicians, Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Normans, Sicilians, Swabians,  Aragonese, Hospitallers, French, and British.  THE FOOD  is gloriously rustic -- a tasty blend of southern Italian meats and seasonal vegetables, with hints of north Africa's fabled spices. We tried the fish pie, lampuki, the rabbit stew, delicious bragiolie   -- beef olives -- succulent soups and sheep's and goat's cheeses. The kapunata, a Maltese take on ratatouille, is not to be missed. The artwork is colorful and beautifully hand-crafted, reflecting the country's ancient, multi-cultural history and influence of both African and the European peoples. Maltese shopkeepers are genial and welcoming, as these two in Valletta prove. (We bought kids' t-shirts and a dress.) MALTESE  history goes back to the dwindling years of the last Ice Age. The ancestors of  today's Maltese  came after Malta "broke apart."  It was once a high mountainous land  connected to Italy.  But when the Ice Age ended around 10,000 years ago, the sea level rose and Malta became a group of islands. A few dozen centuries later, about 5,200 BC, Stone Age farmers from the neighboring island of Sicily spied an island across the horizon.  They arrived in Malta in search of greener pastures and began to farm the land. FOR MANY  centuries, the culture flourished -- with astounding temples and a peaceful, diverse citizenry.      The lovely walled city of Valletta was established in the 1500s on a peninsula by the Knights of St. John, a Roman Catholic order. Its magnificent fortress grew on the arid rock of Mount Sceberras peninsula, which rises steeply and with grandeur from two deep harbours, Marsamxett and Grand Harbour. In 1798, Napoleon Bonaparte took  Malta away from the Knights on his way to Egypt. The French presence on the islands was short lived.  The English, who were requested by the Maltese to help them against the French, blockaded the islands in 1800. British rule lasted until 1964 when Malta became independent  --to the cheers of its population, estimated now to    be an industrious, multi-lingual 437,000 people.  With a land area of 316 square kilometers, Valletta -- Il-Belt -- is the tiny capital of this intriguing Mediterranean island nation.                                                              Malta's  appeal includes ancient sculpture, colorful crafts, several hundred churches and a pleasing culinary menu. The citizenry is friendly and educated.   MUSEUMS,  palaces, cafes and grand churches dot the landscape and elders recall the Siege of  Malta -- a military campaign from 1940 to 1942. The battle played a strategic role in World War II as Malta, then a British colony, pitted the air forces and navies of Italy and Germany against the Royal Air Force and the Royal Navy for a decisive Allied Victory.  Baroque landmarks include St. John’s Co-Cathedral, whose opulent interior is home to one of the world's most famous paintings, Caravaggio's masterpiece, "The Beheading of Saint John."  Delos rises from the sand of centuries ago, a magnificently preserved relic. UP NEXT:  Delights of Delos. The Greek island's stunning ruins include Doric temples, markets, an amphitheater, houses with mosaics and the iconic Terrace of the Lions statues. We took a boat trip from nearby Mykonos to spend a day among the ruins. The island's Archaeological Museum displays statues excavated from the site. It's worth a day trip to view the wonders and imagine life in a sophisticated village, deserted for a reason no one knows.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday.

Toledo stands proud on the plains of La Mancha, a testimony to the possibility that three cultures can coexist in peace. HISTORIC CITY IS HOME TO ARAB, JEWISH, CHRISTIAN FAMILIES WITH CENTURIES OF HISTORY AND BEAUTY ALL AROUND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Toledo stands proudly on the Tagus River banks on the La Mancha plains. TOLEDO APPEARS  in the morning mist, like a mirage. Rolling hills of Castilla La Mancha make way to a majestic walled city here in central Spain.  We see and feel the look of antiquity as we make our way up a series of six separate and very modern escalators.Spain is the world's number one tourist destination and one of the elements to insure this top rating is Spain's ability to balance new, modern buildings with revered ancient structures. Toledo is known for its enticing pastries, many almond based. EUROPEANS know Toledo as "the second Rome."  On the banks of the Tagus River, it towers majestically heavenward.  Toledo indeed is an ancient and proud city, known for its mostly peaceful merging of cultures.  Jews, Christians and Muslims have long inhabited its winding streets and stunning vistas. Well worn stairs bring the tourist down to Toledo's plazas and churches. The square outside the Cathedral of  Saint Mary in Toledo  hosts celebrations, concerts and gatherings through the year.  As capital of this beautiful region of Spain, it is also famous as the home of the well known Renaissance  painter El Greco, or "The Greek." One of El Greco's most famous paintings is "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz," and we visited the tiny church of Santo Tome, where the painting holds court and thousands of tourists have paid homage. We couldn't resist a stop for pastry filled with almond cream. Churros, flan and chocolate filled buns are also famous here, as well as an almond flavored cheesecake Keller pronounced "fabulous."  AFTER ZIPPING  up modern escalators,  we descended a series of well worn stairways, wending our way down to Toledo's squares, plazas, bakeries, craft shops and churches. Santa Maria la Blanca of Toledo is now a museum, preserved by the Catholic church.  It was built as a synagogue in the 1100s by Moorish craftsman. Entering the Moorish Bisagra Gate and Sol Gate, built in Mudéjar style, we found ourselves in the bustling old quarter, where its Plaza de Zocodover is a lively meeting place. On we went to the church for a look at the El Greco painting, one of the most visited paintings in the world. We continued our leisurely walk through the town’s pleasant jumble of streets, down more stairs onto cobblestone lanes. Weathered façades weave Moorish and Spanish elements, testimony to the influences Toledo has embraced over centuries. Churches, paintings, history are part of the charm of Toledo. TOLEDO'S MOST  unusual building was one that has served as synagogue, church and mosque. Muslim workers built it for the Jewish community under a Christian regime back in the 12th Century. Although designed in Moorish style, it incorporated Jewish symbols and the central arch with its lovely scallop design served to store the congregation's Torahs. Now a museum, it is known as Santa Maria la Blanca and symbolizes more than any other building the blending of three faiths as well as Toledo's surges of disharmony. For while Toledo earned the moniker "city of three cultures" the country's major religions did not always live in peace, as the building's moving history reveals. By the 1400s, anti-Semitism was gathering momentum and Jews were being persecuted throughout many Christian kingdoms. The synagogue was converted into a church, the Santa María la Blanca, with a lone Star of David the sole reminder of the building's earlier purpose. JEWS WERE  given three options: conversion, expulsion or   execution. Soon the entire Jewish Quarter was deserted. Jews left with only essentials, hoping their exile was temporary, and that they would soon return to their homes, businesses and comfortable life. The wait lasted generations.  Our guide told us with great emotion of three tourists he has met from three continents. Generations and centuries later, the three hold their ancestors' keys to homes in Toledo.  They pass them on, holding them dear as a sacred symbol of hope and faith. Flamenco is known throughout the world as a symbol of Spain. UP NEXT : Flamenco! Come join us to honor this colorful dance which has captivated the world through the centuries.  A spiritual experience revered by generations and passed on through the centuries, we explore the meaning of the dance to Spaniards. So come explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a unique look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more -- on the road with Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce William Keller through   whereiscookie.com

Eurail offers efficient, pleasurable train travel in Europe. Purchased in the U.S., Eurail allows the traveler to experience many European countries in clean, comfortable cars, with the latest technology, snacks and fine views.  DECADES AFTER THEIR FIRST EURAIL EXPERIENCES, TRAVEL WRITER REVISITS THE DELIGHTS OF TRAIN TRAVEL IN EUROPE View from a first-class coach on a Eurail train between Rome and Florence. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene (Cookie) Meyers relaxes in a comfy coach with the daily Italian paper, her phone and Eurail pass. FEELING LIKE  20-year old's again, we launched our latest European odyssey on Eurail. It was my 55th trip to Europe, and my partner's "20-somethingth," but for our last dozen years together, we'd rented cars, used planes and booked individual train reservations for our European forays. My last Eurail experience was in 1973, my partner's in 1977. That time-honored train pass system, launched in 1959, requires purchasing ahead in the U.S. Our encore would satisfy our mutual desire to revisit Eurail, recapturing our youth in a delightful seven-week Eurail trip. THE EURAIL  Pass, once known as "Europass" or "Eurorail pass," allows holders to travel in 31 European countries on most European railroads and even some ferry lines. Pass holders can visit Austria, Belgium, Bosnia Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Montenegro, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland and more. You can buy a Eurail pass if you reside outside Europe -- living in the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Asia or Africa. We met fellow travelers from all those places, including many Americans with whom we traded travel experiences, snacks and business cards. Europe's landscape glides by on Eurail, here entering Naples.  EUROPE'S TRAIN system is huge and Eurail is only a part of it.  There are no special Eurail trains. 'Eurail' is simply the brand name for the railpass options for overseas visitors to travel on normally scheduled European trains. Eurail passage is offered by an impressive co-operative network of 31 national train operators. A marketing team based in Utrecht in the Netherlands manages the Eurail scheme on behalf of the national train operators. It's a massive undertaking which works wonders in streamlining travel abroad. First, do some homework, remembering that you must purchase Eurail in the U.S. before your trip. Decide between first and second-class, both of which are fine and comfortable.  A 3-month first-class ticket will cost around $2,000, less than a third that for our one-month passes, which worked beautifully with our trip. We book-ended cruises with the month-long land tour in the middle. Train travel in Europe is an efficient, interesting way to explore the continent.  A Eurail pass makes it easy to move from country to country.  FIRST-CLASS  by train is lovely, comparable to comfort plus on the airplane.  First-class is available on most longer-distance trains and if you can afford it, first is a bit nicer, with wider, plusher seats, more legroom. You'll also find nicely dressed businessmen on laptops and fewer families with kids in first class. You'll also get a little snack and beverage, but it's not the airlines, so don't expect free booze for your entire journey.  A well stocked bar and snack car is near first class. WE TRIED second-class for one of our segments-- Madrid to Barcelona.  It was just fine. It's the way most Europeans travel - unless the company is paying.  If you're booking a longer trip, there are  sleeper trains of many types -- even deluxe sleepers with en suite toilet and shower. Once you purchase your Eurail pass, you've got 11 months to use. We activated our month-long passes on the 30th, and used them for the last time the 29th of the following month. Eurail offers a chance to enjoy beautiful train stations, here Naples. Once you've learned the system -- how to use your pass to arrange specific dates and times -- Eurail offers a relaxing way to travel without the stress of driving. We enjoyed excellent fast express trains where we met locals and tourists and watched Europe glide peacefully by. WE FOUND  that Eurail rules are not complicated, but they are specific, and each country has its own system in dealing with Eurail passes and reservations. Once you get the Eurail pass, use the Eurail timetable to see if you need a reservation for a specific trip. (We paid an extra 10 Euros each to reserve longer trips.) On some trains, a reservation is mandatory. Other reservations are optional. Some trains don't need a reservation at all. Because most of our trips were several hours -- Bruce Keller and Cookie arrive in Florence, where the  train station features artwork of the Tuscan countryside.  and we were in the comfy, modern, first-class compartments with large windows -- we really enjoyed our return to Eurail. My techy partner, this column's ace photographer, also appreciated the technical amenities: hook-ups for our laptop and power for all modern devices. We had excellent cell reception except in the occasional tunnel, and used the on-line Eurail ap to check schedules and tickets. Be sure to swap out your U.S. sim card for a European version. For a little more than $40, we had unlimited communication with the greater world. More on that coming soon. Kudos to Eurail for rekindling happy memories as we revisited favorite cities and villages in swift, stylish comfort. And in the UK, check out BritRail, which has taken us all over the country in efficient, clean and comfy style, too. www.eurail.com ; www.britrail.com Christene Cookie Meyers and Bruce Keller enjoy whale watching around the world.  Their best viewings occur, however, in their own backyard.  NEXT UP :  On the trail of the great gray whale with Cookie and Keller.  The magnificent creatures are heading south by the hundreds, passing by our San Diego perch.  We're all eyes -- aboard Hornblower -- to see whales and dolphins and share with you, as they make their way to the Baja to give birth, nurse their young and fatten them up for the return trip home.  Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us each Friday for a fresh take on travel, nature, the arts and family.

A misty blast of water from the whale's blow hole helps us see him, as our Hornblower boat moves closer. For sailors worldwide, the San Diego skyline is one of the prettiest. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE AIR was crisp and fresh, the sun shone bright and our group of 200 aboard Hornblower was in the mood for whale watching. We were NOT disappointed! The Hornblower bar did a brisk business as nature lovers from Europe, Asia and North America cast off from San Diego Bay in search of migrating grey whales. A frisky dolphin dives near the boat to our delight.  While we motored out, a lively commentary began with a capsule of the magnificent whale's life and travels, his breaching, "spyhopping" and mating habits. We followed the main channel past Harbor Island, Shelter Island, graceful yachts, sailboat races, our exotic submarine base, popular restaurants, the U.S. Coastguard Station, our Navy Base, and into the ocean, a scenic 40-minute journey. For us, it's a pilgrimage we make several times a season, a lovely way to enjoy whale watching as well as to admire one of the prettiest skylines and harbors in the world. San Diego's abundant pleasures include the opportunity to observe one of nature's grandest creatures close-up and we take full advantage as often as possible. We found this great grey near Alaska, where we also saw humpbacks. THIS TRIP,  we saw about 10 grey whales -- in peak migration season -- each one about the width of a basketball court. Two of our sightings were of mating pods, three whales each.  The greys often mate in a trio. We've seen babies with their mothers in April, heading north. But since the gestation period is 12 months, the ones we see mating these year will give birth next year. We'll be looking again in April for the mothers and calves. Keller took this photo last April, a thrill for both of us.  Dolphins are also a delight on our whale watching expeditions. They frolic, jump and dive for us, enjoying their captive audience.   http://youtu.be/8NjCuIetD3Y  The whales know we're nearby and don't seem to mind.  Some experts speculate that they are naturally curious and trusting, which could explain their near demise at the hands of the ruthless and greedy whalers of yore. These beautiful creatures travel at about five knots (about six miles per hour), so when a boat captain or passenger spots one, we slow down -- usually from five or six miles out, although we've seen them at closer range. Someone hollers "thar she blows" and gauges the direction off the boat -- 2 o'clock, 11 o'clock, etc. A mature gray whale heads into a deep dive. Their spectacular journey is over 10,000 miles roundtrip, for us, the best opportunity to view. We've taken whale watching ventures in Hawaii, Mexico, New Zealand, Norway, Polynesia and Iceland - but have never had better whale watching than right here in our own back yard. This year, we've been out only twice, not our usual half-dozen times, exploring the 70 miles of coastline in the migration path. Another  grey whale "spyhop" off the coast of San Diego near  La Jolla. It's prime whale viewing season.  The gray whales start swimming south from Alaska in October,  passing the coast off San Diego from December through February, and again in March and into April, when they head north. But it's not unusual to see a northbound whale this time of year.  For as our captain said, "The whales don't have a time table. And it varies year to year, season to season." SO WE TRY TO catch the mighty grey whales coming and going.  After spending time in warm Baja California waters so their young can grow strong and pregnant cows gain weight, they make the journey north again later in spring. This remarkable trip of 20,000 creatures represents the longest known distance any mammal migrates on an annual basis. Experts from San Diego's Natural History Museum enhance the trip with information and dialogue with curious passengers.   Another whale watching adventure Wonders await aboard Hornblower's whale watch. For this Montana girl and my San Diego born partner, it is an extraordinary spectacle. In summer, the legendary blue whales -- the largest animals on Earth -- feed offshore the San Diego coast. Once on a summer cocktail cruise, we spotted a blue. We've also seen humpbacks, fin whales, pilot, minke and even killer whales off our gorgeous waters!   www.hornblower.com View the Whale & Dolphin Watching Brochure Jeffrey Scott Parsons as Bobby Child is surrounded by a  terrific tap-dancing ensemble in a fine production of "Crazy for You" by San Diego Musical Theatre.  ***************************   BEST BET: Magnificent tap dancing and winning Gershwin tunes grace Horton Grand Theatre, San Diego, in a satisfying production of "Crazy For You."  The thoroughly fun, old-fashioned musical features snappy numbers performed with panache by a terrific ensemble, a well tuned orchestra, colorful set and a series of show-stoppers ala Busby Berkeley. Impressive season opener for SDMT, the lovingly crafted endeavor of producers Erin and Gary Lewis. Through March 3. sdmt.org   Madrid's stately boulevards are handsome and inviting even in winter.   NEXT UP : Madrid.  Think elegant boulevards, baroque palaces and expansive, manicured parks. We take you to this exciting and historic central Spain city,  renowned for its rich repositories of European art, including the Prado Museum’s works by Goya, Velázquez and other Spanish masters. The heart of old Hapsburg Madrid is the portico-lined Plaza Mayor and we'll be there! Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us each Friday for a fresh take on travel, nature, the arts and family.

San Diego in spring is a sight to behold -- with blue skies, feathery clouds and a dinner or lunch cruise aboard Hornblower. "To what purpose, April, do you return again? Beauty is not enough."                                                 --Edna St. Vincent Millay STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller welcome spring aboard Hornblower. SAN DIEGO  offers many pleasures from world class theater to water sport and fine dining. Its year-round beauty is a huge plus, and it's at its finest in spring. Chief among San Diego's attractions for this Rocky Mountain girl is the gorgeous climate. Dry warm weather makes San Diego a "most desired" city. The beauty peaks now when many of our annual 30 million visitors call. Water and the nearby ocean provide sport, beauty, fine dining, viewing and fishing. So whether whale watching with Hornblower or enjoying a dinner cruise in November, hiking among desert flowers in March, relishing  summer's bloom bonanza in June, balmy ocean breezes in July or holiday cheer in December, there is no "bad time" to visit San Diego. "America's finest city" deserves its moniker. San Diego is abloom. IT IS HOME  to a large sport-fishing fleet, a major ball park, state-of-the-art cruise terminal, train travel and airport and many fine theaters including the world renowned La Jolla Playhouse, which sends productions to Broadway, recently its Tony winning "Come From Away." "Diana," a stunning new musical by the creators of "Memphis" is selling out. Another brilliant play, "A Jewish Joke," was developed by San Diego's inventive Roustabouts Theatre Co. and brilliant actor Phil Johnson. It opens soon off-Broadway, directed by North Coast Repertory Theatre's gifted artistic director, David Ellenstein. San Diego's sunsets are legendary,  here above La Jolla. Camp Pendleton and its Marine Corps base bring money and people to the region and San Diego is homeport to a huge Pacific Navy fleet. Balboa Park offers a 1,200-acre urban oasis with welcoming parks, natural vegetation zones, green belts, gardens, and walking paths. It houses a variety of world-class museums, theaters, and the famous San Diego Zoo. Balboa Park dates back to 1915-1917, built for the Panama-California Exposition and the canal opening. La Jolla Shores beckons to tourists from around the world, here two youngsters from the Bay Area at play. ALTHOUGH  we're only 1.3 million, San Diego boasts an abundance of lively neighborhoods and attractions:  Gaslamp Quarter, La Jolla, Little Italy, Pacific Beach, Liberty Station and the impressive fleet of the Maritime Museum with impressive historic vessels, a submarine and the enormous USS Midway Museum. Find ethnic restaurants, fine dining, street food, craft beers, buskers and distinct flavors -- from Carlsbad and Del Mar to the north to Point Loma, North Park and Old Town farther south. ORIGINALLY named San Miguel, San Diego was discovered in 1542 by European explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who has a lovely lighthouse named after him. The gorgeous bay and San Diego were given that name in 1602. European settlement in San Diego County began in 1769 with Mission San Diego de Alcala. From 1821 to 1848, we belonged to Mexico until in 1850, after the U.S.-Mexican War when we became a state. The connection endures,  through San Diego's immediacy to Mexico. Legoland beckons Cookie, her niece Amarylla, left, and kids Peny and James. We share an international border and Tijuana and San Diego are an international metropolitan area where visitors, including cruisers, travel south to enjoy luxury spas, beachfront resorts, golf courses, festivals, celebrations,  colorful neighborhoods, and nightlife. Sports teams, even with the Padres gone north, are part of life here as is world famous Legoland, a huge family theme park. Add to that attractive mix research, manufacturing, biotechnology (Qualcomm and more) and world class medical centers -- including Scripps Green Hospital, where Keller received his liver transplant nearly two years ago. One can catch the Coaster in San Diego and take the train north to Seattle. Palm Springs offers a beautiful, relaxing or invigorating get-away. UP NEXT:   Palm Springs has long been a haunt of the rich and famous. Come with us to see where Frank Sinatra and Liberace, Sammy Davis Jr., Loretta Young and many others escaped the pressures of Hollywood.  Come with us to visit this picturesque city in the Sonoran Desert of southern California, known for its hot springs, stylish hotels, golf courses and spas. We'll visit the famous Tram and stars' homes with abundant examples of midcentury-modern architecture. Meanwhile, explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, family, health and nature.

Barry Manilow last week in Las Vegas, at 75, singing, playing, engaging with the audience. He returned to Broadway in 2019, to critical acclaim and will encore his popular Las Vegas Westgate show later in 2021.  TOP TIER,  VERY BEST ICONIC STARS STILL DRESS THE STAGE, TOUR, CONNECT WITH THEIR AUDIENCE EVEN INTO THEIR DOTAGE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IN THE LAST few years , we've seen a host of aging entertainers in live performance venues.  Each one was satisfying. All received standing ovations. In 2020, we joined a packed house at the Westgate in Las Vegas to watch Broadway bound Barry Manilow. Sprightly and now 77, he endeared himself with a generous 95-minute show, playing his own tunes and a Bette Midler does specialty performances, including this one at the Academy Awards. . Elton John at 72 still tours, and will return to his  Las Vegas gig. Chopin prelude that inspired one of his hits. Bette Midler at 75 proves herself still "Divine." She gave three encore numbers, donned a mermaid costume and displayed her usual sexy chutzpah when we saw her at Caesar's a couple years ago. Mick Jagger, 77, couldn't quiet the crowd for the whistles and cheers at his desert concert in 2018. Cher, 74, rocked the Vegas house both times we saw her -- oozing charm with two dozen costume changes. She's planning a 2021 tour. TONY BENNETT headlined with Lady Gaga in a world tour at 90 and despite Alzheimer's, plans a 2021 concert tour.r Gordon Lightfoot at 82, Willie Nelson at 87, earn consistent ovations. Soon to turn 92, Bob Newhart's one-man comedy show charmed at Harrah's Rincon. Rich Little, 82, delighted us at the Laugh Factory in Vegas. Paul McCartney turns 79 in June of 2021 -- still composing and occasionally taking the stage. Elton John, a kid at 73, is still touring, although tapering back on his energetic Las Vegas shows. We're EJ groupies -- four times at Caesar's. Jazz pianist Marian McPartland was in her late  70s when she played a Billings, Montana, concert.  Here, center, with writer Christene Meyers and marketing specialist Corby Skinner. WHY DO THESE  aging stars continue to perform?  Because they like it and we like them. They draw huge crowds, perform with enthusiasm, connect as they entertain. We've grown older with them, so it's charming to see them age gracefully, bowing to standing "Os." When we were coming of age, in the early days of rock and folk music, our parents were listening to Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and the amazing Tony Bennett, whose popularity spans decades and generations. Rock and folk music were unifying cultural forces. Now those rockers and folk artists are growing older. But they still rock out, perhaps with a little more delicacy. Willie Nelson is still a crowd-pleaser.  We see him at Humphrey's Concerts by the Bay here in San Diego, and 25 years after I interviewed him in Montana. With his signature red bandana, his throaty but tender style and self-deprecating wit, he's a joy to behold and still has the chops. At 86, Nelson's voice is weakening, but, he still picks a mean guitar and is sharp as ever. Willie Nelson in an interview during a tour that took him to Big Sky, Montana. He is   Although she was a youthful "60- something" when we saw Angela Lansbury in "Sweeney Todd," she played Madame Arcati in "Blithe Spirit" when she was 91. She is 93.  Tony Bennett plans a summer 2021 tour despite Alzheimer's. Who knows if he'll tour again, but he has a new record out.  I LOVE  seeing performers I grew up with, ones my parents and even grandparents loved.  I had the good fortune to see Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., Nat King Cole,  Marian McPartland, Barbara Cook, Rosemary Clooney,  Alberta Hunter and other greats. Seeing the marvelous Bobby Short twice at the Carlyle in New York was a highlight.  He was in his mid-70s, still brilliant. The king of longevity is Bennett, who turns 95 in August and is just out with a new album. We've seen him five times (three times with Lady Gaga, twice solo). Magnificent. Ringo turns 80 in 2021. Johnny Mathis will be 85. Angela Lansbury was 62 when I saw the actress-singer take the Tony for her Mrs. Lovett role in "Sweeney Todd"; 30 years later, we saw her in "Blithe Spirit" in Los Angeles. Other legendary stars: Julie Andrews, Dick Van Dyke, Mel Brooks....  Leonard Cohen toured until a year before his death in 2016. McPartland did her wonderful "Piano Jazz" National Public Radio show into her 90s and was 95 when she passed in 2013. be 95.  NEIL YOUNG , a mere 70, is still recording and performing. Bob Dylan, elusive at 78, continues to keeps a low profile as we know from his rejection of the Nobel Prize. Leonard Cohen at 77 was still touring, but ill health forced  tapering back, to mostly recording. He died at 82 in 2016. I last saw Billy Joel when he was 66. At 70 now, he's still a kid. Rumors of another tour are out.  It's not the money. Most are  financially secure and could quietly disappear into a life of golf, travel, reading or lazing about. But they thrive on performance; they need the connection. THIS WAS   obvious when we saw Manilow last week in his fabulous show.  He did his hits, dressed the crowd, shook hands. Grace. That's what these veterans share. Bravo, brava. May it continue thus. UP NEXT:   Montana is calling -- and we answer! Come with us to  Big Sky Country, where the deer and the antelope play.  We'll take a few side trips to Red Lodge, Livingston, Cody, Wyoming, and more, and share some of our favorite photos of real cowboys and the true wild west.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday when we post a novel look at the arts, travel, nature and family. We welcome your feedback at www.whereiscookie.com

Enjoying a tuk tuk ride in Lisbon, from left, Bruce Keller, Jane Milder, driver Tomas Neves, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Rick Cosgriffe.  All aboard for a fun tour of this lovely Portuguese city.   TOURING LISBON BY TUK TUK YIELDS HISTORY, STORIES, FRESH AIR, FUN TIME STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Lisbon's seven hills stretch from the city center to the sea, with architecture typical of one of the world's great cities .  WE LOVE LISBON!  It's a favorite European city. So we wanted to show off "our town" to my brother Rick and his partner Jane during our two weeks together in southern Europe. We did it in style, by tuk-tuk, that time honored transportation mode invented in 1879 and offering close-up views along with a few fun bumps. LISBON OFFERS  a wealth of architectural wonders and sea views making it a perfect city to explore by this three-wheeled cart, originally pulled by a person. My dad told lively stories of traveling by  rickshaw during his Army days in post WWII China.  He became fast friends with his trusty driver, as we have with Tomas Neves, who has shown us around his native city several times. Miradouro das Portas do Sol is Lisbon's most  photographed wiewpoint, a central location near the cathedral and castle. Here Rick and Jane enjoy the view as we photograph them. OUR FAVORITE  Lisbon tuk-tuk is electric and driven -- not pulled -- by the amiable Tomas. It is  manufactured in an Amsterdam factory, where most licensed electric auto-tuk tuks or rickshaws originate. There are many types of tuk-tuk treks offered by Tomas and a host of other outfits.  With over 500 tuk-tuks in Lisbon, tours range from gardens to restaurants, churches and museums.  Enthusiasts may concentrate on the oldest part of the city, the Alfama, or the narrow lanes of  residential districts. One may also "tuk-tuk" to Lisbon Castle and other popular destinations including Lisbon's famous Cathedral,  the Convento da Graça, the National Pantheon, Jardim São Pedro de Alcântara and the lively Thieves' Market.  Tomas took us to the Graça Viewpoint at the Igreja, where Rick and Jane enjoyed the view and took selfies. Most tuk tuks accommodate two to four people but some such as this one are larger and can accommodate six or seven.  OUR TWO-HOUR tour focused on Lisbon highlights, with Tomas providing entertaining commentary and stopping wherever we saw a photo opportunity. Because it's a city built on seven hills, its neighborhoods spread out from the city's historic center, blending into one another, to the Belém area near the water. Some tours focus on history, others on architecture, others on food. So you can tailor your tour to your interests. Lisbon's famous Cathedral, the Se de Lisboa, is one of the stops driver Tomas always includes.   The tuk tuk is a wonderful way to savor a city. On an earlier tuk tuk tour, we sampled flavors of Portugal, with typical sweets and chocolate cups.   Lisbon's sights are muted and lovely on a sunset cruise. A tuk tuk tour then a relaxing cruise are a fine pair. Typically, the two-hour tuk tuk tours focus on a specific area of the city, usually the Alfama and historic area. A half-day tour allows one to see more of the city and get more detailed information about the main attractions. A full-day tuk tuk tour will cover most of the major attractions, most likely taking passengers to Belem which is a bit outside the center. The longer tours also give time to go inside museums, churches and gardens rather than just driving by, which we did this last time. Lisbon is a city of majestic architecture and many fountains. During themed tuk tuk tours, you’ll visit the main landmarks of the city but with a special focus. Passengers can choose from desserts to art to national heroes, museums and more. WHETHER YOU  see Lisbon by tuk tuk or walking tour, or taxi ride, you won't want to miss Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. As one of Lisbon’s must-see sights, it is Belem's undisputed architectural showstopper, an impressive honey-stone Manueline cloisters inside a UNESCO-listed 1495 monastery. On the nearby riverfront, another famous sight is the tower, or torre of Belem. It's an imposing fortress which epitomizes the excess of the Age of Discovery. We climbed to the top for splendid views over the Tagus River.   Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers took a tuk-tuk tour then hopped on a sunset cruise,  framed by Lisbon architecture.  OUR GUIDE Tomas knows where to find the best views for photos. He drove us to historic places, waiting patiently and helping us plan the next stop.  As one of the oldest cities in western Europe, there are more stops than possible in a single tour. So Tomas helps narrow the field, describing how his city has evolved through various occupations, wars and conquests, asking which aspects interest us most.  HE EXPLAINED that the region was home to the Celts -- founded by well traveled Phoenicians around 1200 BC, making it 400 years older than Rome. These educated people established a settlement called Ulissipo, and became successful merchants, traders and colonizers until they were conquered by the Greeks and Carthaginians.  TOMAS IS rightly   proud of Lisbon.  As Portugal's thriving capital city it maintains its strategic geographical position at the mouth of the Tagus, the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula. After a tuk tuk ride, we recommend Tagus Cruises, which takes it name from the famous river. Consider Lisbon by boat and tuk-tuk. For tuk-tuks, contact Tomas Neves: tomasneves95@gmail.com TripAdvisor offers many tuk-tuk tours. Or contact Lisbon's tourism office at: www.visitlisboa.com/ For a fun cruise:   taguscruises.com   Puerto Rico's El Yunque Rain Forest is a tropical treat. UP NEXT:  We continue our look at Puerto Rico, where the government has stepped up its tourism in the last year and is spending millions to attract us. It's more than coffee, casinos, rum and beaches. After leaving Ponce recently, we headed into the El Yunque rain forest, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. Then, a visit to seductive San Juan, with adventure, night life, fine dining and an inviting old town and gorgeous hotels and resorts.

A men's bathroom in Singapore offers greenery along with sparkling clean urinals. Not all bathrooms abroad are as clean or nicely appointed. BATHROOM POINTERS WHILE   ABROAD: KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN AND CHANGE AND PAPER IN YOUR POCKET Bathroom art is sometimes whimsical. Here we find a trio of famous artists out for a drive: Salvador Dali, Frida Kahlo and a bloody Vincent VanGogh.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU'VE spent time abroad, you've likely experienced confusion while trying to answer the call of nature.  Where to go when you have to go? You're saying to yourself, "I need a bathroom now."  Your eyes have scoured the scene to no avail. Often in a strange place, you can't find a john, or when you do, you have questions. Maybe there's a turn style with a stern looking woman standing by. Do you pay her, and how much? Is there toilet paper? Unisex? How do I flush the damn thing? LOOK FOR  signs. One might say "WC" (short for water closet). It will usually say "toilet." It's not a "restroom" or "bathroom" although we'll call them by our familiar names here.  But abroad, those words are not widely recognized.  At a WC abroad, you might find little drawings or cartoon figures of a man and woman.  Signs might say "men and women" in the native language, so bone up on the language: Sometimes in Europe, asking for  a "bathroom" will literally lead you to a room with a bath, and no toilet.  Ask for "WC" "toilet," "bano" etc. Hombres, mujeres; männer, frauen; hommes, femmes; uomini e donne; madames, monsieurs;  menn, umen; Etc., A few words of homework. This nicely decorated men's WC is in Provence. In Japan, we found this on a bathroom in a Kyoto restaurant: "men and umen." Nice to see the distinction because we don't read much Japanese. In Greece, we saw this sign: Άνδρες Γυναίκες so we've learned to recognize the Greek for "men and women." It never hurts to ask, or wait until the door opens and see who walks out or in. This toilet sign in Portugal made us laugh. Who knew people would stand? FORTUNATELY, most service people and many of the citizens abroad speak English.  In many countries, it is compulsory in schools, but we always carry a Berlitz translation book and learn a few words and phrases in the native tongue. My college French helped a lot in Paris: "Où sont les toilettes s’il vous plaît?" always brought a smile and a friendly point to the restroom. But don't be offended if your best foreign language question is answered in English.  Knowing a few words, though, always opens doors, wins friends -- and helps find bathrooms. A spotless toilet in a European hotel off the lobby.  The more remote your destination, the less likely of widespread English, making it all the more important to know a few key phrases and words. SMALL-TOWN foreign toilets tend to be functional, reasonably clean, and tiny, often at the back of the shop or restaurant, or maybe up the stairs or down the basement. Remember: most of these places were around before modern plumbing.  IF YOU ARE  near a restaurant or bar, you may have to purchase something to use the restroom.  Most cafes and restaurants will have a toilet for customers to use. This is usually included with a purchase and you'll might see a sign that says "customers only, no public toilet." So grab a chair and a drink or snack. It's "toilette" or "toilet." A bathroom is where you bathe. Some places allow non-customers to use the toilet for a small fee, in Europe, usually a Euro.  Recently, in Provence, the waiter explained to four of us that purchasing a cafe au lait was expected in return for use of the loo. No problem.  Four Euros each well spent. A few more tips, gleaned from years of travel: A men's room in the famous Sydney Opera House offers a view of the architecture while you relieve . *Always carry a few sheets of toilet paper or a tissue. Many foreign toilets don't provide it, or you'll find it out of stock. We take pocket-sized tissue packs in our backpack or my purse. And if you see a wastebasket near the toilet, you'll know the plumbing is likely fragile. Use it for your paper, instead of flushing. You'll find in some places with older systems, the paper is NEVER  flushed down the toilet. I know, it's not the American way, but when in Rome....or China, or a beach on the south of France.... *IN OLDER hotels and restaurants, you'll sometimes find a pull string instead of a handle. In modern bathrooms, you may see a push panel above the toilet or two buttons or a large split button near the tank or on the top -- one for light flush, one for heavier. It's a water conservation method.   Someone with a sense of humor decorated this toilet display, a urinal in Honolulu.  The rule of thumb in small or older toilets or on a tour boat or bus: Don't put anything in the toilet that doesn't come naturally from your body.  *  PAYING  to use a public WC is a European custom that annoys some Americans. We never quibble because the city or village is offering a service and water is expensive. Pay toilets are the norm at highway rest areas, train stations, and even at some sights — so keep your change for a john.   Recently in southern France, we found  a WC with a self-cleaning toilet seat and a spray for the floor. This classic "squat" toilet was in a unisex facility in a Turkish museum. * Often the toilet itself is free, but an attendant in the corner may sell sheets of toilet paper. A common sight is the tip dish by the entry.  Many attendants leave only bills and large coins in their tray, but the local equivalent of a dollar is plenty, so don't be intimidated. But do smile and be polite. It usually helps. We've met many cranky toilet attendants so we try to be nice with a tip.  Who can blame them?  They spend their day in rooms of stinky toilets with people who often don't have change. Be kind and polite and leave a few coins. * We've noticed more and more unisex toilets abroad, recently in both South America and Europe. Some European bathrooms have shared hand-washing facilities for women and men, with adjacent but separate toilet areas. And some restrooms make no distinctions for gender at all. Again, when in Rome. Remember to ask for the toilet, or "le toilette." * Most European, Asian and South American toilets are similar to ours. But in remote places or on the beach, you might find a more rustic facility.  It might consist simply of porcelain footprints and a squat-and-aim hole. Sometimes they are in the shape of a urinal, but built into the floor. Keep in mind that many of our fellow humans sit on their haunches to use the bathroom. Some cultures call these "Turkish toilets," probably because they are commonly found in Turkey and that part of the world. Be flexible, polite, carry change and paper, and plan ahead.  And of course, the rule of thumb: if you see a toilet, use it, even if you don't think you need one.   Salvador Dali was eccentric from childhood into his final days.  Here, near the end of his unusual life, he posed with his favorite cane. ON TAP:   Hello, Dali! If you're intrigued by the imagination and eccentricity of Spanish surrealist  Salvador Dali, come to his homeland with us to visit a trio of museums dedicated to his art, life and passions. We step inside a castle he bought for his wife-mistress-muse, Gala, and spend time in his own home on the seaside of northeastern Spain.  Finally, we revisit his enormous museum in Figueres, where he was born and grew up. Then more art is in store: New York's famous Museum of Modern Art, and Barcelona's Gaudi homes, Sagrada Familia and an update on the Getty Center and Getty Villa, which closed because of the fires. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com