Search Results

ON THE TRAIL OF MOVIE LORE, WRITERS HEAD FOR HOLLYWOOD As Cookie got her novel-writing groove back, she and Keller took to the road, exploring settings for "Lilian's Last Dance." Here they are, above Los Angeles, their backs to the town, looking at the famed Hollywood sign. Why visit Hollywood! There’s something undeniably magnetic about Hollywood a place where dreams have been made, stars have risen, and stories come to life on every corner. Nestled within Los Angeles, this world-famous neighborhood invites travelers to walk along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catch panoramic views from Griffith Observatory, and feel the buzz of an industry that has shaped global culture for over a century. Whether it’s your first visit or a return trip, Hollywood offers a vibrant mix of history, entertainment, and that unmistakable touch of movie magic. Although Grauman's Chinese Theater was not around in the novel's time, it remains full of history and nostalgia and was helpful in conjuring detail for "Lilian's Last Dance." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER             EARLY-DAY  movie makers often had a background in Vaudeville, as did our major players in "Lilian's Last Dance." My grandmother Olive loved Vaudeville, and played for the silent movies. An early-day cinematographer. The action in "Lilian's Last Dance" moved from New York across the United States to Hollywood. That meant we needed to go to, where else, Los Angeles! Why visit Hollywood To get a feel for the days when Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks roamed the lots, when United Artists was a fledgling enterprise and when MGM and Paramount entered into bidding wars over the top stars, we grabbed the popcorn and took off. Paramount's past is linked to Hollywood and the novel's study of the birth of modern-day film.  In our novel, a troupe of gifted actors and musicians is yearning for challenge and change. We got into that spirit! WE PORED  over photos and found many of a famous "new face on the lot," a Biograph actress with long, cork-screw blonde curly locks, nicknamed "Little Mary."   We decided that Mary Pickford should ake an appearance in "Lilian's Last Dance."  "The Girl with the Golden Hair" became the first major star of movie-making during our novel's unfolding. Mary Pickford takes a cameo bow in "Lilian's Last Dance." Her career gave us a starting point for imaging the lifestyle of the Hollywood our characters inhabit. ALTHOUGH  he traveled to Hollywood and Los Angeles regularly during his 25 years as chief film critic for the Arizona Republic, Bill's open heart surgeries and cancer treatment left him weakened and unable to make road trips toward the end of his life.  Anyone who has been caretaker for an ailing cancer patient knows the trauma of chemotherapy, radiation, the eventual an air lift back to the desert Bill loved, and his death in hospice care at our Arizona home. Cookie and Keller took several Hollywood "stars homes" tours to develop a feel for the property the leading players in "Lilian's Last Dance" would buy.  AFTER A FEW  fallow writing years --  I began to get my old momentum back.  "What would Billy want?" I asked myself. "For you to get back on the horse," I heard him say. The characters of "Lilian's Last Dance" would have seen Hollywood Hills much like this vintage photo. I had just the right person to ride with.  Bruce William Keller (who shares both my late husband's names, Bruce and William) said he's love to accompany me to cinema museums, on Hollywood show biz tours, driving tours of the West, returns to Europe.   An accomplished photographer and illustrator of this blog, he quickly caught the spirit: talking to hotel marketing people, librarians, public relations folks, historians.  He loved visiting a usually "off limits" room where we admired vintage posters.  We found several of "America's Sweetheart," Miss Pickford, who commanded one of the highest salaries of the day. She was paid $175 week at first and then $1,000 a week for a five year period. Capitalizing on the intense bidding for actresses,  Pickford commanded an unheard of $2 million annual salary, with percentages from Paramount.  She would soon become a co-founder of United Artists, with Charlie Chaplin and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. This research played into the details of our novel's Hollywood days. COMING UP : Cygnet Theater is a jewel in San Diego's theatrical crown.  The season is an exciting one -- and its annual holiday gift to the community. Explore, learn, live and remember: carpe diem.   www.whereiscookie.com

The entrance to Clifton's, a Los Angeles tradition, is a preview to the lights, glitz, old-fashioned fare and displays inside. While you enjoy old-fashioned cafeteria food, you may be entertained by a juggler, gymnast or musicians at Clifton's in Los Angeles POPULAR EATERY IS STEEPED IN HISTORY, FAVORITE OF LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Clifton's in Los Angeles The "Golden Rule": Founder Clifford Clinton, influenced by his missionary upbringing, famously allowed customers to pay only what they could afford or "dine free unless delighted". It is estimated the restaurant fed two million people for free during its early decades. The Atmosphere: Known as a "poor man's nightclub," the Broadway location (Brookdale) featured a 20-foot waterfall, faux redwood trees, and a small chapel to provide an escapist fantasy for city dwellers. A Cultural Hub: In the 1930s, the "Brown Room" at Clifton's was the weekly meeting spot for the Los Angeles Science Fiction League, hosting legends like Ray Bradbury , Robert Heinlein , and Ray Harryhausen . Current Status: After extensive renovations by owner Andrew Meieran, the landmark was rebranded as Clifton’s Republic. It evolved into a multi-story entertainment venue YOU WILL  feel as if you're an extra in "Alice in Wonderland" at Clifton's where you'll happily travel down the rabbit hole to discovery -- critters in full taxidermy glory, gymnasts, partiers, gourmands, history buffs and families gathering in what feels like a real forest. Our Los Angeles friends suggested we stop by Clifton's Cafeteria for a beverage and snack after a recent play at the Ahmanson Theater. Deer, bears and here a handsome lion await.  Clifton's in Los Angeles "It's unlike anything you might imagine," said our friend Sue, a native Angelina. She grew up as a Clifton's patron, coming to the cafeteria with her family and still enjoying the occasional Clifton's foray today. She was right. Nothing like it. The vintage nature of Clifton's includes lovely appointments, even in the men's room. Clifton's Cafeteria is a Los Angeles landmark. No, you are not seeing things.  It's a massive fake tree, cut into the floors above you. All part of Clifton's decor.   CALIFORNIA'S  lone survivor from the Golden Age of cafeterias gives new meaning to "dining experience" with stuffed animals, a giant faux tree "growing" artfully through several of the restaurant's five stories and more. It's crammed with artifacts, antiques and kitsch, a “Cabinet of Curiosities” and a variety of other eccentric attractions to celebrate California’s diverse natural and cultural legacy. The cafeteria is known for its forest themed environment, the star of which is the fake tree installed in a cut-away ceiling. The charming but wacky place has no doubt survived because of both its fine food and word-of-mouth reputation, as well as five generations of family support and innovation. It is named after Clifford Clinton, who combined his names for the "Clifton" handle.  It began as a modest eatery in 1888 when his ancestor, David Harrison Clinton, a 45-year-old Confederate veteran from Missouri, traveled to Los Angeles with a teenage son. HE BOUGHT  the Southern Hotel on Main Street and opened a restaurant and dining room. Its reputation grew and it was proudly passed on through the generations, evolving in 1931 into Clifton's which grew to a chain of eight.  The Brookdale eatery is the lone survivor. Many believe its restored and historic dining hall and fantasy environment, "Forest Glen," helped inspire Walt Disney to create Disneyland nearly two decades later.   Makes sense because a trip to Clifton's is a trip to fantasyland, from its "Crystal Caverns" filled with rare minerals to artful terraces, a stone chapel, impressive murals and vintage artwork. IN A CITY  known for excess, the cafeteria provides a stunning albeit over-the-top experience dedicated to both tasty food, and to the celebration of California's colorful past.  Entrepreneur Clinton held value, quality, innovation and contemporary twists as his goals.  A plaque about the state's beloved redwoods pays tribute. Old fashioned home cooking is the byword at Clifton's, from jello to beef and potatoes. WE TRIED several items -- from thick sandwiches to soups and snacks.  We settled at a table on the second floor and were soon entertained by a limber gymnast performing on ropes hung from the ceiling. Sue headed downstairs to order small plates and sandwiches while I queued up for beverages.  One may go through the cafeteria line or buffet and make it a quick meal or a leisurely one with old-fashioned cafeteria entrees or tasty small plates. Be sure to wander through the exhibits. "We're about good food and visual entertainment," the bartender told me. "We're into pleasing people." BEST BETS: San Diego is experiencing a happy glut of theatrical riches. Not to miss is "The Illusion," a fantastical tale with elements of magic, about a father-son estrangement, the bonds of love and the power of regret. The Rep's gifted artistic director David Ellenstein is at the helm, so expect precision, artful staging and top acting. Go to  northcoastrep.org Go to  sdrep.org   Check out Cygnet Theatre and San Diego Musical Theatre for fun musicals. NEXT UP :  Up for a road trip to some of the most spectacular wildflowers you'll see this lifetime? The Anza Borrego Desert near San Diego is experiencing record blooms through mid-April, due to recent rains and just the right temperature and sunshine to make the seeds happy. We're on the trail of the blooming wonder and will share on the next posting, coming soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each weekend for a lively approach to travel, nature and the lively arts.   Bruce Keller takes aim as the day dawns at Anza Borrego's wildflower frenzy.

BEARS ON THE WALLS, BEARS IN THE WOODS AT CHARMING LITTLE INN FOR EXPLORING GLACIER East Glacier's Dancing Bears Inn is a lovely base for exploration of nearby wonders of Glacier. Bruce Keller is ready for the elements, with a light snow melting as the photographer enters Glacier National Park. If you go down to the woods today, you're sure of a big surprise. If you go down to the woods today, you'd better go in disguise! For every bear that ever there was will gather there for certain, because today's the day the Teddy Bears have their picnic. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" All roads point to Dancing Bears Inn. ARE ADDRESSING OUR REVIEWS WE ARE RENOVATING THE FACILITY NO TODAY'S THE DAY the teddy bears have their picnic! Remember the old song we sang as children? Written in a menacing minor key, it sounds a bit like Charles Gounod's "Alfred Hitchcock" theme. But there are no minor keys at Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier, only major pleasures, where every day is a picnic! It's all sunny side up! An all-day buffet of organic treats invites hotel guests to snack between hikes, enjoy a hot or cold beverage -- including beer one of the evenings we visited -- and plan the day's activities thanks to knowledgeable hotel managers. Kim Stevens and her co-manager C.J. are proprietors of this delightful find! They love what they do and it shows. We joined the two of them, and their hotel bears (photos, drawings and even a bear shower curtain) -- along with a gorgeous grizzly bear who prowled nearby -- for a two-day picnic. Our headquarters, the Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier, is a convenient Glacier base in the Two Medicine Valley of this northern Montana park. Kim Stevens, at the computer, and Cookie, plan the day's activities. Tasty organic snacks are available for guests all day long at the inn. THE MOTEL is small and welcoming, a perfect location for a few discerning Glacier Park explorers. It has only 15 rooms. And a must for us: several of the rooms are pet friendly. The two managers are hands on, greeting guests at check-in, and making certain they feel welcome. They even put a make-shift walkway down to help us navigate melting snow. Thoughtful Stevens escorted us to our rooms to make certain the heat was on and we had all we needed to be comfortable. The rooms are quiet and nicely decorated. Nothing fancy, but clean, inviting digs (bear motif of course) and spacious. It's not unusual to have a continental breakfast included in the room price, but that's usually rudimentary: toast, cereal, juice, maybe an orange or banana. Just a hop, skip and stroll from Dancing Bears, Serrano's Mexican Restaurant in East Glacier serves tasty Southwest and Mexican fare and is always packed. Dancing Bear's all day "breakfast" is a real exception, and truly the star in the crown of a Dancing Bears stay. THE BEAR'S BREAKFAST is more like a European morning buffet than an American motel offering. Bagels, granola, yogurt, juices, and a treats such as breakfast burritos and English muffin sandwiches -- the Bear's own version of MacDonald's classic. Their "Bear MacMuffin" and more make for real value. "We like to have goodies for people all day, when they come back from a day of hiking or a long drive," Stevens said. "It's a nice touch because the owner really cares that people have a memorable, enjoyable time and get what they want for snacks." That, of course, is smart marketing and encourages return business. WE ALSO found a couple fun dinner eateries, suggestions of the inn managers. Our favorite was Serrano's, a lively Mexican place with terrific, zesty Southwest cuisine. The picturesque Two Medicine area is just minutes from Dancing Bears Inn. Specialties include a tasty red snapper and a flavorful strip steak. Appetizers, margaritas and a delicious flan-like dessert were happily and efficiently served. EXPLORING Glacier again, we learned that Lewis and Clark were very near where we were based, on the east side of the Rockies. They were so close to Marias Pass they could have reached it in an hour or so. But they couldn't see it for the clouds. Surely, had they found it, their journey over the mountains would have been easier! We made no attempt to see all of Glacier, a park we grew up with as native Montanans. Our advice to Glacier travelers with a couple days is to base at one of the hubs -- West Glacier, St. Mary, Many Glacier, or farther north, across the Canadian border, in Waterton Park. CONCENTRATING on a smaller area -- less than 75 to 100 miles from your hotel -- gives time to savor your area. Besides the grizzly, we noticed beautifully changing autumn colors, bear grass, flowers and snow on the mountains which sheltered native people for millennia. Dancing Bears Inn Prime Access to Two Medicine: The Inn is perfectly situated for those wanting to explore the Two Medicine area of Glacier National Park, which is just a 20-minute drive away and often less crowded than other park sectors. Heart of East Glacier: You are within a single block of local restaurants, shops, and the Amtrak station, making it a walkable home base for village life. All-Day "Breakfast" & Snacks: One of the most praised features is the lobby, which provides free organic snacks and a variety of treats (juices, yogurt, bread, and breakfast burritos) available for guests all day until 10 PM. Diverse Accommodations: Options range from standard motel rooms to a spacious private cabin that sleeps eight, featuring a wooden spiral staircase and a full kitchen for a more residential feel. Pet-Friendly Environment: It is one of the few places in the area that welcomes pets, making it an ideal stop for travelers with dogs. BOOKING the inn: 406-845-5565; rates $150 and up. Remember to explore learn and live for and catch us weekly for a fresh take on art, travel, theater, music , nature and more at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cruising's pleasures heightened by exhilarating Alaskan adventure The wonders of Alaska unfold for Cookie, above, snug in her layers, enjoying the view from Carnival's Miracle. The captain's delicate maneuvering helps guests enjoy the wonders of the majestic Sawyer Glaciers, tiny islands, sea life and more.  Our appreciation and concern increased.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" I STILL  feel a bit giddy. Call it an iceberg high. I've smoked my share of ganja and had a few nips too many, but I've never been as high as I was a few days ago, infused by nature's wonders and reveling in the thrill. My intoxicant? The stunning bluish icebergs of the Tracy Arm Fjord of Alaska. Here's why you should cruise Alaska. Glaciers in Tracy Arm are receding with each year, threatening wildlife. FROM OUR  veranda aboard the Carnival Miracle, we listened with astonishment to the ominous "white thunder" of immense spires of ice breaking from Sawyer Glacier. After they tumbled and crashed to the sea, we watched them melt leisurely into whimsical shapes -- horses, flowers, entire tableaux. From the earthquake-like cracks which startled us, the massive hunks of ice transformed to subtle, serene floating works of art. We witnessed the evolution of ice sculpture. And we had our environmental consciences tweaked. All in a few hours time. It's an overload of wonders in just a few days, which is why you should cruise Alaska ENJOYING these magnificent sights and sounds would not have been possible without the luxury of a time-saving cruise. A cruise offers security, mobility, beautiful ports, no packing. They're affordable now, so consider cruising as a wonderfully safe and efficient way to move about the world, experiencing several ports in a week or two, enjoying their splendors without wasting precious time packing and unpacking. ON THE Miracle, we entered Alaska's glacier area as children squealed with delight and adults gasped in awe. At one time, we counted 22 ice bergs of various sizes, with hundreds of cameras aimed at the spectacle. We'd layered up, as our savvy naturalist advised, with turtle-necks, sweaters, scarves, hats and jackets to transit the 30 miles of wonder in the world famous Tracy Arm Wilderness Area. WE WANDERED  from own stateroom to our private veranda, to the larger decks above and below, to change and enhance our views -- like sitting in various sections of a changing theater --  making certain  we absorbed the entire  spectacle. Floating ice sculptures entrance cruise travelers to Alaska's fjord country.   In eight days of cruising, this unusual  "floating ice" orgy represented, for us, a tie for "most exhilarating day" -- the humpback whales were yet to come. While we would find an abundance of whales and sea lions, we were alarmed to see the diminishing glaciers and ice fields. We renewed our memberships to conservation and preservation efforts, reminded of the fragility of the earth's balance and the importance of glaciers and water to sustaining marine life and preserving polar bears in particular. This is another reason why you should cruise Alaska: to be informed, help save the planet. The sunsets aboard a ship at sea are hard to beat, here exiting Alaska's stunning Tracy Arm Wilderness Area .  A room with a view:  The brilliant aqua glacial melt. Another reason why you should cruise Alaska THE THRILL  of being close-up to a steep, snow-clad mountain rising up 7,000 feet from sea level, would satisfy most of us. Add to that the sound of cracking ice, the view of tons-heavy glaciers glinting in blue and pink light, splashing of tons of ice into the sea, then the melting "decorations," the ever-changing vistas as the ship made serpentine turns. ALL SPECTACULAR.   Ending with one of the prettiest sunsets we've seen. And we hadn't had a drop of chardonnay!   Captain Luca Lazzarino presents a surprised Cookie with a "Miracle" cake created by the ship's chief chef: a  happy 100th cruise party with Keller and officers.                 COMING NEXT:  Our Alaska-Seattle adventure continues, with a segue to British Columbia. Join us for an exciting series of pieces: In Alaska we are aboard Carnival Miracle's, where captain Luca Lazzarino, honors Cookie on her 100th cruise. Cookie and Keller on the road to Alaska, ready for adventure. We find a friendly pod of seven humpback whales near Juneau, take a narrow-gauge rail trip to the White Pass summit, hunt for bears (with our cameras!) and end our revels in international style at the famous Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria, B.C., for a spot of tea, a sip of sherry and a spectacular view of the Parliament Buildings lit up at night. FINALLY ,  full circle back on the mainland, we savor Seattle for a cocktail sail on Far Niente yacht, take a discovery trip to the locks aboard Argosy's Good Time III, and delight in a beguilingly elegant hotel, Pan Pacific, with stunning service and views to match. The Space Needle shines in Seattle's sky, luring our travelers to linger. Remember to explore, learn and live. CHECK US OUT  Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Fall blankets the Teton Range with splendid colors.  It's not to late to plan a trip.  Teton Village and Jackson await! This tranquil morning reflection combines Teton mountains, water and stone. WILD COUNTRY BECKONS FOR SOLITUDE RENEWAL, COMMUNION WITH NATURE AND ROMANTIC TIME TO BOOT   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER On a Road trip to the Tetons they have a way of sneaking up on you. One minute you're chatting about snacks or gas prices, and the next—bam—there they are. Sharp and sudden, like the earth just decided to grow teeth. That first view never gets old. The Teton Range rises straight up from the valley floor, no foothills to ease you in. It's dramatic, wild, and somehow comforting all at once. Grand Teton National Park in 2026 offers breathtaking, jagged peaks, pristine alpine lakes like Jenny and String Lake, and abundant wildlife viewing (moose, bears, bison) . Key highlights include sunrise at Schwabacher Landing , scenic drives up Signal Mountain, historic Mormon Row barns , and boating/hiking to Hidden Falls IF YOU  have not visited Grand Teton National Park in a while, or taken a day or two in Yellowstone or Glacier, Road trip there now if you're anywhere near!  Prime fall colors, an abundance of birds and wildlife,  and an absence of crowds make this my favorite "park time." Fall is our reporter's favorite time to visit Yellowstone, for scenery and solitude. You can't visit a national park too many times.  It's just not possible.  Each visit is nuanced, each drive or hike yields different sights. Stop off for an ice cream, and a view of the elk in downtown Mammoth. Examples, from our travels within the last few days in all three of Montana's and Wyoming's national parks -- Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Glacier. A grizzly sow and her cubs were feasting on the lovely drive from Moose to Jackson, in the Tetons. Thus, the road was closed by the park service, necessitating a detour to Teton Village.  We saw a moose close-up on the revised route, and found a restaurant for a later supper! In Yellowstone, the direct road from Norris to Old Faithful was closed, so we skipped our favorite geyser and drove to Tower instead. We practically had the road to ourselves and the colors were breathtaking. We saw more bison on that afternoon than we've seen in the last two trips to Yellowstone combined! Mammoth provided great ice cream and dozens of nearby elk. After Road trip to the Tetons consider: A Road trip In Glacier, just two days ago, we had snow during our first few hours as we drove north from Fairfield. Undeterred, we  tossed our bags in the hotel room (the lovely Dancing Bears in East Glacier) and took off for Two Medicine Lake for fabulous snow photos. Next morning, we spent an almost balmy day driving north, watching a grizzly bear at close range for over an hour. FLEXIBILITY  is the key when traveling anywhere, particularly in the parks where road repair and critter movement can close roads.)  But make that part of the fun and be prepared to embrace the change and enjoy the surprises. Flexibility and cultivation of the art of rolling with the punches worthy credos for life itself? This kind of travel is relaxing, romantic and quality -- for conversation and closeness at the shared wonders! We also took the lovely back roads most of the way from Livingston to Columbus, stopping off at the cemetery there to visit our ancestors' graves on a gorgeous fall afternoon. AS I WRITE  this, I hope you, dear readers, are not too far away to drive to one of our splendid national parks. If you are an armchair traveler, get up, hit the computer and plan to book a trip for next season. Our parks are our national treasures. Off-season rates are available and the crowds are gone! For lucky us, we're just minutes as the crow flies from our door in Beartooth country to Yellowstone's northern borders. But each beloved national park has its own distinctive beauty and allure. COMING SOON:   We're winding up our circuit tour of the three national parks closest to us.  Next up, Glacier National Park, the Fairfield Inn, Dancing Bears in East Glacier, and the elegant Barrister Bed and Breakfast in Helena. Plus tips on traveling happily with family. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at:   www.whereiscookie.com

Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park is the park's largest lake and, many believe the most beautiful, MILLIONS OF TRAVEL-STARVED TOURISTS WORLDWIDE TURN TO PARKS, GARDENS, NATURE EXPERIENCES, OUTDOOR DINING FOR PANDEMIC RELIEF STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Grand Teton, seeking relief from isolation. AS THE VEIL of the pandemic slowly lifts, national parks are attracting record numbers of travelers as they take to parks and open spaces worldwide. After months of lock down, the outdoors offers inspiration and relief. In the U.S., tourists are flocking to revel in the landscapes of Glacier, Yellowstone, Yosemite, Bryce Canyon and Grand Teton national parks.  In Europe, outdoor parks and mountain trails are welcoming record numbers of enthusiasts, joyous to be outdoors again. Nature and its varied landscapes offer a calming coda to months of isolation caused by the spread of COVID-19. A sculpture in the world famous Vigeland Park in Norway, where thousands visit each year THROUGHOUT  the world -- mostly where citizens are vaccinated -- outdoor venues, concert spaces and parks are welcoming record numbers of guests.  Norway's Vigeland Park, featuring the intriguing sculpture of Gustav Vigeland, is a wonderful, family-friendly outdoor arena. Remarkably, it's free, honoring the sculptor's wishes and a substantial endowment. The fascinating venue is really a park within a park, located in Frognerparken (Frogner Park), the largest public park in Oslo.  A popular spot in all weather, this lovely park also boasts an open-air pool, restaurants, a museum and much more. One of many intriguing sculptures at Tippet Rise. A natural backdrop provides a stunning setting for The Domo. Vigeland was a conservationist and hiker and wanted his sculpture to be showcased in a venue offering the compliment of nature's healing  balm. This life-saving pairing -- art and the outdoors --  is a magical elixir, a sanity saver and health booster for millions of us now more than ever. TIPPET RISE  Art Center in my native Montana is open. This unique venue in the spectacular plains and hills of south-central Montana is open for hiking and biking on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays from June 25 through September. Although there is no concert season again this year, outdoor enthusiasts are welcome to bring a mountain bike or hiking shoes and tour the remarkable collection of huge sculptures and soak up the gorgeous Montana landscape. Hiking and bicycling tours are free, but require reservations. Call 406 328-7820.   The road greets visitors to Yellowstone Park's East Entrance outside of Cody, Wyo. We need all the open space we can find, so we turn to nature for relief and inspiration. AFTER MONTHS of isolation, people -- including the two of us travel writers -- are anxious to travel again.    National parks predict tourist numbers will more than double this year, as families, hikers, bikers, campers and cyclists hit the roads. Whether in search of geysers, sand dunes, beaches or wildlife refuges, folks are heading to the parks by the tens of thousands.  As travel restrictions start to lift in Europe and beyond, and talks of a UK-US travel corridor heat up, travel is returning, slowly becoming possible. The the European Union, a Covid travel pass is being rolled out across the bloc so travelers are again moving about within Europe. The canals of Venice are expected to draw record numbers as Europe slowly opens again to travelers. In several European countries, international tourists have been welcome since the start of June, with most visitors needing only to present a negative COVID test or vaccination card. Visitors from some countries, like the U.S., may still need to follow a 10-day quarantine. Restrictions are lifting country by country, however. So check with individual tourist bureaus. HAPPY NEWS  is that many European countries, including Italy, are expected to be classed as "low risk" by the end of June. Cafes, bars, restaurants, hotels and theaters have partially reopened to the public in many European countries, and parks. In Ashland, Oregon, for instance, after 16 months of lock-down, the world famous Allen Elizabethan Theater is staging its first show. Outdoor dining worldwide is more popular than it has ever been. Many restaurants have opened patio areas, and will likely keep them even after the virus is quelled. Keller and Cookie hold Nick on a road trip while awaiting poolside room service. OBVIOUSLY, TRAVEL can increase a person’s risk of getting and spreading the virus, so it is still wise to take precautions. Remember that we're in close contact with one another, sometimes for prolonged periods. We are also exposed to more frequently touched surfaces. Air or train travel requires spending time in security lines and busy airport terminals.  So even though the CDC has loosened its requirements for masking, we recommend it. We're also devoted "hand-sanitizers." We also distance whenever possible. We ask for outdoor dining seating whenever possible.  At a recent play, we were seated six feet from others. On a flight to Hawaii, a middle seat was empty, but that is soon ending, making masking even more important.  So be shrewd, be cautious, be protected. And with these careful conditions, we can once again travel. Happy, safe trails!   Touring in Salinas and Monterey, at Cannery Row in the old part of town.

WE PAY TRIBUTE TO TEDDY AND HIS COUSIN FDR FOR THEIR EFFORTS IN PRESERVING WILDERNESS Lake McDonald  in Glacier Park belongs to all of us, thanks to the national park system and the Roosevelts' push.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" and courtesy news archives FDR loved the parks as did his distant cousin Theodore Roosevelt. FDR, here touring Glacier National Park. "There is nothing so American as our national parks.  The scenery and wildlife are native.  The fundamental idea behind the parks is ...that the parks belong to the people...."   FDR Teddy Roosevelt above, said his love of nature was encouraged by naturalist John Muir. So much beauty awaits in the national parks in large and small doses.  Here, a close-up of algae makes a lovely mosaic on rock. Photo opportunities are a major draw for tourists from all over the world. ONE FEELS  a swell of pride when entering Glacier Park's wonders. For me, it's as close to "church" as I  get, for as I pass the ranger station, I enter hallowed ground. We here in Montana are lucky to have three national parks within easy driving distance.  Whether exploring Yellowstone to our south, or Grand Teton a bit farther, or heading north, "going to the sun" on the breathtaking highway by the same name in Glacier, we remind ourselves of our good fortune and the foresight of the Roosevelts. Conservationist John Muir engendered a love of nature in the common man -- and in presidents.  FRANKLIN Roosevelt's cousin, Theodore Roosevelt --"the conservation president" -- was a champion of the National Park System well beyond his term in office. He doubled the number of sites within the National Park system and enabled future presidents to proclaim historic landmarks through the Antiquities Act of June 8, 1906. This Act allows for structures and historic and scientific objects to be protected under federal ownership. We appreciate the Roosevelts' vision and that of naturalist John Muir. He guided Teddy Roosevelt into the wilderness of Yosemite, and friends said it marked Teddy for life. Glacier Park's wonders -- more than a day trip OUR NATURALIST  friends knew a single day -- or three -- couldn't do justice to a national park. Yet FDR's few hours more than 80 years ago inspired a stirring radio address about Glacier's wonders. Try to stay a week or at least four or five days. If you only have a couple days, though, savor a national park visit to encourage an encore visit. The grizzly bear is a sight to behold. They can be seen in Glacier and Yellowstone national parks. Trees, critters, birds, majestic glaciers, waterfalls, redwoods and vistas are a few of the enticements. They impressed Teddy, Muir and FDR as they impress millions today. IN EVERY  visit to Glacier, Teton and Yellowstone, we've   been lucky to see bears.  We've watched them hike up hills and munch on grubs and berries, fattening up for the long winter's nap, months away. Once, we watched one unearth a carcass of a long dead mountain goat. The griz feasted on the smelly remains, buried months ago. No doubt, he'd remembered where he hid it. Photographer Rick Cosgriffe has a field day in Glacier. He visits the park several times each season, taking photos for his annual Daytime Planner. The grizzly has been around for at least 10,000 years. The native people knew them first, and they'd been there thousands of years before European explorers showed up in the late 1800s. The "westerners" crossed the mountains in search of vast buffalo herds on eastern plains, documenting their observations of the grizzly.  NATIVE  people saw the parks' same wonders that Teddy, FDR, Muir and today's tourists do: rugged peaks, clear waters, abundant animal and bird life, breathtaking geysers and glacial-carved valleys.  May our national parks inspire those who love nature's beauty to protect and preserve it through the generations. Kateri, a golden eagle injured by a car, is part of the Raptor Exhibit at the Buffalo Bill Center. Coming soon here. COMING SOON : We're back from a road trip to Cody, Wyoming, with a store of wonders including the Draper Museum Raptor Exhibit and a raptors' show at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends and Wednesdays at www.whereiscookie.com

The Colosseum remains one of tourism's most visited sites.       Story by Christene Meyers      Photos by Bruce Keller      "Rome doesn't compete. Rome just watches all the fussing and striving, completely unfazed. I am inspired by the regal self-assurance of this city, so grounded and rounded, so amused and monumental, knowing she is held securely in the palm of history. I would like to be like Rome when I am an old lady.”   Elizabeth Gilbert, author of "Eat, Pray, Love" The sights, sounds smells and tastes of Rome linger long after one leaves her. Is there a city more unique? Some might say New York, London, Stockholm, Rio, Bangkok or Paris.  All have their graces and enticements. Is there a city more exciting? I've been around the block and most of the world, and I can't think of one.      Rome's mix of decorum and cutting edge, excitement and calm, hipness and history holds it dear to my heart and the hearts of thousands of other poets, painters and tourists dating back hundreds of        years. Pope Francis now calls Rome home. Rome's stately buildings inspire and fascinate, here against a perfect summer sky.          All roads lead to Rome for her grandeur and gaudiness, her enticing ethnic mix, her intoxicating blend of elegance and bawdiness. Here is a city which hosts the Pope and more women in tight pants than anywhere else in the world. So a salute to Francis and sexy women.  Why should they be mutually exclusive? Where else can you admire hundreds of statues and monuments paying homage to the human form, then round a corner to come face to face with a $12-shop-window apron sporting a decal of a fat, happy man flipping a pizza. Oh, yes, he's buck naked! Cookie and Keller at the Trevi Fountain, before the coin toss which guarantees their return!      Rome remains vibrant while historic, trendy while old-fashioned.  There is no other city remotely like her. Once one has strolled the boulevards of Rome, savored her gastronomy, prowled her ruins, there's no looking at other cities in the same way.      Rome endures, literally layering the old upon the new.  The original city is 25 "layers" beneath modern Rome.  One looks down a several-story excavation to see the site where Julius Caesar was assassinated.       I try to get my Rome hit at least once a year.  I'm always reminded of her constancy and her ability to adapt and embrace the new.            I remember having my fanny pinched in the early morning hours when my girlfriend Susan and I hopped off in Milan for a slice of pizza. Rome's architecture continues to change and grow, as ruins are discovered and old buildings restored .       It was fun!  I hope I never stop having my fanny pinched, nor appreciating "fun" when it presents itself. Back then,  I was a cute little teen-aged girls and the pinchers no doubt had had consumed copious amounts of vino. Ice cream in Rome is simply a must.      Rome has changed with me  from puberty to menopause.  Still today, the allure of Rome and all of Italy has never abandoned me.  Through several decades and a couple dozen  visits, I've never stopped loving the country and wanting more.  It is an addiction, not unlike the one I've developed for gelato!  A buggy driver pauses to go on line.       Rome remains a wonderful starting point from which to head south or north, exploring the rest of Italy.  From the cypress groves and vineyards of Tuscany to the canals and bridges of Venice, the villages of Sicily and the picturesque fishing town of Portofino (founded at least 1,200 years ago), Italy will not disappoint. Pause in a Roman holiday.       We once rented a villa half way between Sienna and Florence.                                                                                                                               "How old is this building?" we asked the owner, our host, Gulia.   "Not so very old," she said. "It is only 14th Century." Recently, we stayed in a lovely harbor suite at Hotel Martini in Olbia, Italia, on the island of Sardinia.  We'd flown from Atlanta to Roma, then spent six hours touring the grounds surrounding the Colosseum with old friend Lucilla, who has her doctorate in ancient Roman history. Back on the plane to Sardinia, with a quick shower and dinner in the old center. Finally we slept after 36 hours, enjoyed a restorative breakfast of cheeses, prosciutto,  brown bread, yogurt, figs and cappuccino. A couple museums, a stop in a local market, pasta in the piazza and plenty of red wine. Rome's museums, fountains, squares and government buildings are legendary. The next day we rented a car to explore the island's east coast.  Again, we were surprised and delighted: lunch of freshly caught squid, a soak in the sea and  vespers in a 14th Century monastery.   We'll return to Italy and Rome, to toss a coin over our shoulder at the Trevi Fountain.  Lore says that means we'll return. So far, it's worked Hollyhocks in their glory, at High Chaparral in Montana.    COMING WEDNESDAY:    Flower power! What would the world be without the wonders of flowers? We'll share some of our favorites from Montana to California, islands, and other continents. Please tell your friends about whereiscookie.com and sign up if you have not yet done so.  Grazie.

Sander and saw in hand, Bruce Keller, a summer resident, embarks upon an incredible building journey at High Chaparral. KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE PRIZE AS YOU ENTER A MAJOR BUILDING PROJECT AND, OH, YES, BE NICE TO ONE ANOTHER! Demolition calls for a strong constitution and the knowledge that the chaos will end. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Highchap "Remodeling Blues" IF I HAD KNOWN the full extent of the disruption, and the decline of my patience and mental health, would I have embarked upon this remodeling project in the wilds of Montana, miles from stores and materials and dependable help? Who knows that Highchap "Remodeling Blues"  we do most things that involve complication, unrest and tension?  Would we knowingly toss our routines and securities to the wind? Keller, Tom Giamanco, Bradford Smith clown at hat party. All three hats represent various aspects of the construction project. The important fact: the new addition will be gorgeous.  I will have helped (a little, at least), and Keller, the maestro of this complicated orchestration, can rest on his laurels for the remainder of our lives. This San Diego native "cowboyed up" to a Montana project as large as the Big Sky he's come to love in eight summers here. KELLER IS A MASTER builder, familiar with the twists, turns, timing needs and difficulties of fitting all the pieces of the puzzle together. So he knew there would be glitches, delays, misunderstandings. He was not surprised at mistakes in orders, running short of cedar planks, errors in the course of the new rooms going up. From left, Brad, Tom and Keller enjoy lunch at High Chap.  I, foolish Cookie, expected everything to go smoothly. (From Keller's perspective, things did!) But in my business of writing, it's possible to make precise predictions.  If I were consistently late for appointments, as a couple workers have been, or if I made serious mistakes, as have happened a few times, I might lose my job. But good workers are hard to find, humans do make mistakes -- even the best in the business -- and orders don't always come in on time. Sometimes the wrong products are sent -- or the plumbing part, tool or window doesn't arrive in Absarokee -- 27 miles away, so a 54-mile round trip can be for naught. Billings means more miles and a day-long commitment. There were many trips there. A rafting adventure gave us a bit of needed R&R.   KNOWING A FEW  things will go wrong, and accepting that fact, then dealing with the situations, is a gift Keller has perfected through 40 years of being a builder and contractor supervisor.  He knows how to line up subs, fitting the pieces of the puzzle together into an intricate jigsaw puzzle.  He maintains good cheer, encourages his colleagues, listens to suggestions. (Except sometimes mine,  I contend.) Working and living in the same house one is remodeling is tough. People are in and out. Things get lost, misplaced, buried. The floor gets tracked with dirt from the digger, dry wall mud and dust.  Small Yorkshire terriers are constantly flinching as nail guns stutter and large tools are dropped or moved. Tom got to meet actor Gary Burthoff, "Radar," of M*A*S*H, at a party. Taking time to "smell the roses" -- a walk to the river, a drive in a Yellowstone Park bus, a silly time at a hat party -- all of these diversions have helped calm us and ease the tension.  We all enjoyed the recent benefit for Stillwater Protective Association at Montana Jack's, and had a fabulous time.  I made a point of fixing pleasant meals -- easy breakfasts and lunches and a tasty supper, and made sure there were cool drinks during the day and beers and wine after a 10 or 12-hour work day. Tom, painter Jim Slater, and Keller, play with Nick, Nora.   ONE NIGHT , the boys went to Gena Burghoff's birthday party the day after I sprained my arm, and met her dad, Gary Burghoff, known to millions as the amiable corporal Radar O'Reilly, on "M*A*S*H." All work and no play makes for a cranky Cookie and she notices the boys get cranky too if they don't have an occasional evening or afternoon off. Keep your spirits up, be nice to the contractor (he's exhausted and is doing a fabulous job!). The boys unwound on short, reviving hikes to the river, and spent time playing with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Big Sky Country's splendors await.  We'll share recent landscapes. COMING SOON :  We head up the California coast, enjoying some of our favorite waterfront hotels and restaurants, and we study the bird and animal life "home on the range" in our other favorite spot in the world, Big Sky Country, Montana! We try to give our pieces a sense of fun and offbeat adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live.  Join us Wednesdays and weekends at   www.whereiscookie.com    l

Peny Jil Cosgriffe Hayes was a beautiful and talented sister who died 27 years ago this week.   REMEMBERING A LIFE WELL-LIVED:BLITHE, BEAUTIFUL SPIRIT PENY ( Editor's Note: This essay, by Christene Meyers, was first published three years ago and has appeared in various versions in newspapers and magazines. It is reprinted today by request, on the 30th anniversary of her sister Peny's passing .) TWENTY-SEVEN  years ago, the world was mourning the Space Shuttle Challenger disaster. Our family was saying good-bye to our beloved Peny Jil, my sister, who was enduring the last few days of a nine-month battle with leukemia. I was on my way from Montana to University of California Medical Center in San Francisco, on one of 25 flights to see sis since her diagnosis on April 5, 1985. It was the morning of Jan. 28, 1986, and I’d raced into an airport lounge in Salt Lake City to watch the Challenger launch. Waiting for my connection, I grabbed a cup of coffee and headed for the TV. I watched in disbelief as the shuttle broke apart 73 seconds into flight. Soon, everyone knew that all seven crew members had perished. I’ll never forget the anguished faces of Christa McAuliffe’s parents, Ed and Grace, as their joy turned to horror. "Evita" was the last pay the sisters saw together. Theater was a tradition. FOR MY  family, it was sorrow upon sorrow. My father and mother, Richard and Ellen, were experiencing their own grief as the doctors in San Francisco told them that morning that Peny would not survive. The ardors of chemotherapy, radiation and failed bone marrow transplant had weakened her beyond recovery. We had been so hopeful  – battling the odds – conferring with doctors, reading everything, hoping for a miracle. She slipped into a coma the night before and although I had just left San Francisco, hope in my heart, I headed back to say good-bye. Christa McAuliffe left the planet the same weekend as did Peny, 27  years ago during Challenger's launch. PENY WAS BORN  in 1949. Christa was born in 1948. They would have been friends. Both were gregarious, over-achieving, loving, fine teachers, intrepid adventurers, with daring, charisma and humor. Christa became famous as the first teacher to train for a space flight. Peny was a ground-breaker, too. She left Montana to live in a commune in northern California. There she met Jim Hayes, a New Yorker who left a successful law firm for a simpler life. They established a porcelain pottery studio and had two delightful children, Amarylla and James. Peny taught aerobics, grew vegetables, was an accomplished cook, singer and seamstress and made blueberry pies instead of birthday cakes. She was a fine swimmer, sly prankster and never missed an opportunity to hear a jazz concert or take in a play. Peny, on mother Ellen Cosgriffe's lap, and Cookie, 1952, right. The sisters performed and dressed alike until their late teens. As children, she and I were known as Cookie and Peny and we toured a song-and-dance act to Montana towns, performing for many functions, including a gubernatorial inaugural. Our musical mother dressed us like twins until we were in our teens. In our last years together, we began a tradition of sister weekends in San Francisco, seeing plays, going to clubs, ordering room service at midnight. The Hayes family visited Montana and we met in Hawaii when the kids were young. Our last play together was “Evita” and I think of Peny every time I hear “Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina.” I wonder if Christa’s sister, Betsy, thinks of  Christa every day. Even after 27 years, I’ll bet she does. PENY JIL  Cosgriffe Hayes had gorgeous red hair and a lilting soprano voice. She learned to play the viola in two days. She loved to  dance and stopped the show with her passionate movements. She also mastered piano, guitar, trombone and flute. In her last weeks, she played her flute in the cancer ward, greeting other patients, her instrument in one hand and her portable IV in the other. She was also an accomplished artist and was building a successful porcelain business with her husband Jim when disease struck. Cookie, left, baby Amarylla and Peny on Maui in 1974.  Both Peny and Christa were married happily and had small children. Christa’s children, Scott and Caroline, were nine and six when they lost their mother. Peny’s children, Amarylla and James, were twelve and nine. I am devoted to my niece and nephew and follow their lives with pride. I often wonder how Christa’s kids are, how their lives have gone, what they’ve become. I KNOW  Christa would be proud and I’m certain Peny would be pleased that her children have full, happy lives. She loved both town and country and her kids have many of her wonderful traits – one each living in the two worlds she loved. James is the country boy, settled in rural northern California where he grows and markets organic vegetables and eye-popping flowers. Amarylla lives in the Bay Area where she is taking time off from her marketing and catering career to be a busy mom. Both have loving partners. I gave each couple a holiday gift of a video my own partner put on a DVD. In it, their mother sings a leading part in a Christmas cantata in 1984. From left, sisters Cookie, Olivia and Misha, with their niece Amarylla, Peny's only daughter, of whom she was proud.   That long-ago rehearsal is one of the few remnants we have of Peny in action, along with a funny tennis match with her husband Jim, filmed at Flathead Lake in Montana during the summer of 1983. My late husband, Bruce, provides a hilarious commentary for the match, the youngsters’ antics in the lake and the picnic we shared later in the day. ONE OF MY  late mother’s favorite Cookie-Peny stories was of a holiday performance Peny and I gave in the Congregational Church in Columbus, Montana, in the early 1950s. We were singing “The Lord’s Prayer,” with our grandmother Olive accompanying us on the organ. I was four; Peny was three, “Irish twins,” as we were known. When Peny began fidgeting with the brass rings on the velvet curtain framing the altar, I slapped her hand. She slapped me back. The fight continued, all without our missing a note and offering a teeth- Peny, left, and Cookie, sing a holiday song. clenching “amen.” The congregation was in hysterics and the minister was laughing so hard he had to remove his glasses. I CELEBRATE  my sister’s rich but brief life and her robust 36 years on the planet. Christa had only a year longer. How much more could these two wonders have accomplished had they lived? How I wish Peny were here with me now, for I’ve recently settled in California. We would see even more of one another, enjoy the jazz and the plays. She would cherish her grown children, and her adorable grandson. We’d meet again at the Fairmont or St. Francis to toast with chardonnay and order chowder at midnight. WHAT I KNOW  about loss is that it becomes a permanent part of our lives. Each fallen loved one holds a sacred place in our heart and history. Our affection never changes. Our sadness in their leaving never abates. But slowly, miraculously, the debilitating sorrow gives way to wistful thanks. Thanks for their having been here. For since their existence has altered ours, they are forever with us.

AUF WIEDERSEHEN TO A BELOVED ICON: ACTOR, WRITER, CAT LOVER, GOURMET, GARDENER, TRANSLATOR, TRAVELER Hannelore Carter, left, her longtime companion and "son of the heart," Jason Webinger, and Christene Meyers, at a reception following a play. "The sun will rise and the moon will set and we learn how to settle for what we get. It will all go on if we're here or not, so who cares, so what." --  "So What?" from the score of "Cabaret"      STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SHE CALLED  herself "your Hannamama." We were devoted to one another and I just received the sad news of her passing. Although we shared no bloodline, we were connected by a mutual love of theater, travel, animals, literature and nature.  Her joie de vivre was contagious.  Folks said we had the same sparkle to our eyes and we both liked good gin. I shared her love of the eccentric -- in both humans and animals. We enjoyed gallows humor, puns and the French language. She loved the score of "Cabaret," in which we both acted, particularly the sardonic song "So What?" which she sang with gusto on and off stage. Hannelore Carter was my "heart mother." After my mum died seven years ago, I leaned on her. "I shall be your fairy godmother," she said. During our 47-year friendship, I wrote many stories about "Frau Carter" and her late husband, Constantine Carter.  We performed in plays together -- "Cabaret'' was a highlight, at Billings Studio Theater in 1977.  Hanna played Frau Romance blooms, then is crushed, in "Cabaret," in which Hannelore Carter  played Frau Schneider. Here, the  character  receives a pineapple from Herr Schulz.  Schneider, who runs a Berlin boarding house and falls in love with a Jewish grocer, Herr Schulz, during the Nazi rise to power. Bullied by the Nazis, the character declines marriage, betraying her heart and a chance for love. Her heartfelt portrait of the "Cabaret" character was drawn from personal experience. Hanna, born in Germany on Jan. 4, 1926, came to America in 1952. She'd lived through Hitler's hell and knew the sacrifice of war. Her father was killed during an Allied bombing, and she lost friends as an adolescent in Bavaria growing up between two world wars.  Like many of her contemporaries, she was a Hitler Youth, although her parents were quietly "anti-party," and had strong feelings about Hitler's reign of terror. She became a champion of human rights, had many gay friends and a curiosity for all cultures and creeds. Hannelore Carter's fondness for animals, and her clowning instinct, came together at "The Chalet," where she received guests, including Yorkies Nick and Nora.  It was a treasured retreat in the Beartooths. HANNA, AS HER  American friends called her, loved to tell the story of meeting her future husband, a native New Yorker.  She'd come to America as an au pair girl and nanny, and was crossing a street near Central Park, pushing her young charge in a pram.  "I paused at a street corner, to consult my map," Hanna said.  "A neatly dressed gentleman approached me and said, 'Could I be of assistance?'  It was Con, of course. I said, 'Sir, I am not a pickup.' But I allowed him to walk me home." They dated, married the next year and remained together nearly 48 years, while Con pursued a long, successful career in the hotel business, from The Big Apple, to Denver, then Billings in 1955. Con was a fixture at the Northern Hotel until the late 1990s. Hanna nursed him through cancer, in the same home on Parkhill Drive in which she passed early Tuesday.  Her 89th birthday was Jan 4. HANNA COULD  clown -- her letters to me often ended with "your sour Kraut" -- but she had a sweet, deeply serious side and won awards for her acting, at BST and other theaters.  Memorable to this reviewer are her leading roles as the eccentric medium, Madame Arcati in "Blithe Spirit," and as the formidable German grandmother in "Lost in Yonkers."  Another favorite role was as the title character in "Mother Courage and her Children," by fellow dramatist and German, Bertolt Brecht. But she ranked her "Cabaret" role as tops and cherished the guidance of director Skip Lundby. "Hannamama" near Nye, with her hiking stick. From left: Christene Meyers, Bill Jones and Jason Webinger.  She was a tireless translator for German guests, including stranded or injured travelers whose lack of English presented a problem during Montana visits.  One middle-aged German tourist had a heart attack a few years ago while visiting Yellowstone Park.  Hanna navigated the red tape of his hospitalization, tended him and his wife daily, helped him recover and return to his homeland. HANNELORE  was an early-day member of Landmarks,  a Billings preservation and beautification society.  She was a talented gardener, terrific German cook, avid hiker, brilliant seamstress (no patterns), devoted swimmer, delightful letter writer and card maker, and creator of a playground of brick walkways and garden paths in her meticulously tended back yard.  She adopted abandoned animals, cultivating a fondness for orange and gray cats, and bestowing whimsical names. She loved our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, whom she referred to as "your fetching children." Besides acting, translating and volunteer work, Hanna taught for many years at Rocky Mountain College.  She wrote short stories and poetry, including eloquent odes to both of my late husbands, Bruce Meyers and Bill Jones.  She referred to Bruce as "Bruce the Great," (he was the emcee in our beloved "Cabaret" when I was head of the bawdy Kit-Kat Band).  She called Bill "our Billy Boy," and penned a portrait to him for his memorial at High Chaparral in the Beartooths.  Hannelore's moniker for Keller was "your Prince Charming."  She is my only "elder" who knew well all three of my life loves. Cookie's only photo of herself, her "bio mum," Ellen, and her "Hannamama." HER LONGTIME  companion and devoted friend was Jason Webinger, who was with her when she passed Tuesday morning. "I promised her I'd be there until the end," he said, with emotion. He held her hand through her last night, administering the morphine hospice prescribed.  She called him "my son of the heart," and he was her confidant, dinner companion, traveling mate, power of attorney and, finally, her loving caretaker.  Jason called Hanna "my soul mate, my dearest friend."  He shared her father's Oct. 15 birthday, which they celebrated with great gusto. Jason and Hannelore loved their hillside perch at "The Chalet," which they built together in Cathedral Mountain near Nye. There they hung their paintings, artwork and  treasures from lifetimes of travel. She hoisted a red, white and blue banner on the porch, proud of her nearly 63 years on American soil, which she celebrated on her 60th year here with a 2012 party. Hanna was an only child, as was Con. They had one daughter, Heidi, who kept vigil with her mother and "adopted brother" Jason, these past weeks, traveling from her job in Iowa. HANNELORE  specified there be no obituary, but as Jason told me today, "Of course, she wanted you to write something." As a fitting memorial, I'll make a donation in her name to the Humane Society. My heart is heavy, Hannamama.  Auf wiedersehen.  You told me, "It doesn't mean good-bye. It The famed Sydney Harbour Bridge in Australia is next up. We photographed it, sailed under it and climbed up it! means until we meet again." COMING UP :  We bumped the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge features to pay tribute to our dear friend Hannelore Carter, who died Tuesday. We'll resume our travel and theater specials WEDNESDAY, giving this eulogy appropriate view time and Cookie a few days to mourn. Remember to enjoy, learn and live, as Hannamama did. Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

QUINTESSENTIAL ANDALUSIAN CITY THRILLS WITH GORGEOUS BUILDINGS, ROMANCE, STIMULI AT EVERY TURN    Cookie and Keller in Seville, enjoying the lovely grounds of  Seville's Plaza de Espana built for an international exhibition. Below, S eville's grand cathedral is one of the world's largest. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Seville Spain's grand cathedral is one of the world's largest. Seville Spain, the sun-drenched capital of Andalusia in southern Spain, is a city where centuries of history blend seamlessly with a lively, modern spirit. Its winding streets, ornate palaces, and vibrant plazas create a setting that feels both timeless and electric. Whether you're exploring the charming Barrio Santa Cruz, savoring authentic tapas, or losing yourself in the emotion of a flamenco performance, Seville invites you to slow down, soak it in, and experience Spain at its most captivating. IF PARADISE  is a garden, as Islamic belief would have it, then the Spanish city of Seville is a bit of heaven on Earth. This beautiful city merges Islamic splendor and Catholic extravagance. Add olive oil, orange blossoms, tapas and flamenco. This recipe for "city success" is served up in tourist friendly Seville, a quintessentially Spanish city. The colorful streets of Seville, Spain, are not far from the port city of Cadiz, which makes a nice side trip, Shops offer an array of flamenco dresses, pottery and sherry. Seville is the jewel of western Andalusia. It's the birthplace of flamenco and some think tapas. These bite-size edibles are served with cocktails, or as a satisfying meal. HERE ARE  a few highlights of our recent visit -- easily accomplished in a couple full days: A pause in early afternoon is an excuse for a beer and tapas for these two gentlemen. * The Plaza de Espana, built for an international exhibition, is huge, welcoming and a favorite place for locals to stroll. Seville is a city of stately buildings, welcoming plazas, ancient churches, manicured parks and friendly folk. * The famous Alcazar, built in the 1300s, is one of Europe's architectural masterpieces.  This World Heritage Site offers sunken gardens, intricate tile and plaster decor. The Hall of Justice with its lovely gardens, houses the stunning Palacio de Don Pedro, a Moorish masterpiece. The fabulous throne rooms and reception halls include one in which Columbus was received upon his return. Horses are part of  Seville's culture, here at the cathedral. * SPEAKING OF  Columbus, Seville's Cathedral stands on the sight of a huge mosque, used as a church for a time after Seville fell to the Christians in 1248.  The cathedral was built after the mosque was mostly demolished. Inside one of its opulent chapels stands the monumental tomb of the explorer in which his bones are supposedly housed, brought from Cuba in 1898. THE LARGEST  altarpiece in the world is also part of the cathedral.  The belfry, once the minaret of the mosque, is home to a 16th century bronze weather vane, symbol of Seville's faith. * Seasoned tourists spend a half-day at the Alcazar and another at the Cathedral.  There's lots to take in, so visiting on separate days is good, with time for a park, picnic or relaxing tapas stop. Two dancers, left and right, perform flamenco on a street near the Alcazar. Here tourists pose with them.  * This city of believers is also home to many delightful tapas bars, and flamenco abounds -- on a grand scale in expensive nightclubs and on street corners where locals pass the hat or scarf for Euros. * SEVILLE's  museums vie for attention -- contemporary and classical art and even a flamenco museum, Museo del Baile Flamenco. * Beautiful hotels, exciting paradors and B&Bs and a hotel with pianos in the rooms offer a satisfying range. Hotel Amadeus on Calle Farnesio is run by an eccentric music-loving family. Upright pianos in the soundproofed rooms allow for practicing on holiday. A tempting tea selection is available in Seville's outdoor shops. * YOU'RE CLOSE  to Andalucia's enticing hill towns, and Jerez de la Frontera, home of two Spanish symbols:  rich delicious sherry and prancing, dancing horses. Seville is also famous for its orange trees and graceful pink flamingos. * Friends sipped their way from Seville to Cordoba recently, describing in a postcard the delights of sherry, flamenco, tapas and flower sprinkled white washed patios. "Electrified our senses," they said.