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- Midway marvels: historic wartime vessel engages visitors in San Diego
Interested visitors come and go on the top deck of the USS Midway. Actor Tom Cruise in "Top Gun." Press promotion shots were made aboard USS Enterprise, not Midway as many people think. Cruise posed for photos on San Diego's waterfront where Midway now resides and is a popular tourist attraction. STUNNING MIDWAY MUSEUM TELLS TALES OF WAR, HEROISM, HONOR, VICTORY AT SEA STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE USS MIDWAY MUSEUM in San Diego is a unique testimony to the power of military might, brilliant design and the dedication of hundreds of people devoted to the concept of service to country. Midway Museum is both an enormous floating ship and a fascinating museum. The famous aircraft carrier -- named for the Battle of Midway -- is a carefully curated collection of more than 60 exhibits. Hospital, cafeteria, quarters, rooms where battle strategy was discussed.... you'll even have an opportunity to "chat" with the captain in an "animatronics" exhibit, in one of the museum's many interesting chambers. Bruce Keller in the cockpit of a Midway plane. This one allows visitors to sit inside. Bruce Keller, aka "Keller" and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day on the top deck of Midway. We climbed aboard recently in my husband's hometown, with guests from Britain. We four had a wonderful time on this historic, fascinating "fighting machine" as we explored exhibits, walked through cabins and viewed 29 carefully restored aircraft. THE FAMOUS Battle of Midway -- in June of 1942 of World War II -- turned the tide of war between the United States and Japan. Although Midway was built in a record 17 months, she missed World War II by a week, commissioned on Sept. 10, 1945. So while she was not in the battle for which she is named, she played a crucial part in other actions, particularly Operation Desert Storm. Jazzercise dancers exercise in celebration in a fundraiser to fight breast cancer on Midway. The ship is beloved by its port. HERE'S WHAT we learned of that: On Jan. 17, 1991, aircraft from Carrier Air Wing 5 launched from the flight deck of Midway in a combat air campaign against Iraq, preparing the battlefield for a coalition of nations’ counter-invasion and the liberation of Kuwait. This was in response to the surprise attack and seizure of the small, oil-rich kingdom by Iraqi dictator Saddam Hussein’s military. Midway's career was officially nearing the end. The rapid collapse of communism after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 rendered the Cold War moot, and the Midway -- after nearly 50 years of service -- was slated for decommissioning. But the aging carrier didn't fade away. On Oct. 2, she cast off from Yokosuka, Japan, bound for the Persian Gulf. She arrived Nov. 1 to relieve the USS Independence to watch over oil fields. With military action likely, the Midway was joined by USS Ranger and USS Theodore Roosevelt battlegroups. Despite her age, the Midway remained the flagship for the rest of the Gulf conflict. She was decommissioned in San Diego and remained in storage in Bremerton, Washington until 2003 when she was donated to the San Diego Aircraft Carrier Museum organization. It opened as the USS Midway Museum in June 2004. Bravo, Midway. The Midway from the sea strikes a handsome pose. MANY GROUPS and organizations visit Midway. Music groups are regularly scheduled to play on her top deck; a community band serenaded us with patriotic tunes and Sousa marches the day we visited. Movies are shown from time to time, including the film "Midway" and of course, "Top Gun," starring Tom Cruise. My Jazzercise group celebrated the 50th birthday of Jazzercise aboard Midway, with a thousand of us dancing to celebrate the ship and our exercise program's fight for a cancer cure. "The Kiss" can be seen from San Diego's embarcadero near Midway. Yorkshire visitors Sue and John Speight enjoyed a day on San Diego's waterfront and especially their Midway and Star of India visits. HIGHLIGHTS of our recent visit: a walking tour through the officers' quarters, and a contrasting look at the much smaller and more cramped enlisted men's bunks. Our friends -- who also visited nearby Star of India with us -- took the elevator down to the galley and infirmary area and pronounced it fascinating. "We were impressed with the realistic food display and layout of the galley," said Sue Speight. Added husband John, "It's amazing how they churned out hundreds of meals for the sailors in such limited space." The two found the compact infirmary "incredibly well equipped to be able to deal with all the ailments and emergencies they encountered." One of San Diego's most famous artworks -- "The Kiss" statue -- is very near Midway and worth a short walk to view. It's inspired by the famous WWII photo shot in Times Square of a sailor and nurse hugging in jubilation at war's end. More information: www.midway.org ; sdmaritime.org Plan to take visitors or family for an educational yet fun outing at the San Diego Natural History Museum, a whale of a time is guaranteed. (Here, a replica of an extinct megalodon shark which once lived here, awaits your view.) UP NEXT: The San Diego Natural History Museum in the captivating city's beautiful Balboa Park, is an educational yet fun place, a wonderful family outing. It was founded in 1874 as the San Diego Society of Natural History and is the second oldest scientific institution west of the Mississippi, the oldest in Southern California. From the life of native peoples, to vegetation, minerals and, dinosaurs, visitors will find it an interesting place to spend a few hours. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com sdnat.org
- Natural History Museum is treasure trove in San Diego's Balboa Park
A patron pauses outside the San Diego Natural History Museum, where fans of nature and the natural world are treated to a variety of exhibits which inspire to visit and appreciate nature and the diversity of the San Diego region. A long extinct shark, whose teeth were found near Oceanside, Calif., greets visitors in artful replica. ARTFUL EXHIBITION SPACE IS A HIGHLIGHT OF A VISIT TO SAN DIEGO'S BEAUTIFUL BALBOA PARK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE SAN DIEGO Natural History Museum makes for a great family outing. A magnificent dinosaur skeleton, bears, elephants and more await inspection, framed by colorful murals. Affectionately nicknamed "The Nat," it's also perfect for visitors looking to get a feel for our region, for couples seeking an educational yet fun outing, or for a single person who wants a beautifully curated stroll for a look at life as it continues to evolve and change in southern California and the Baja California peninsula. First, there's a remarkable Moreton Bay Fig Tree gracing the lawn in front of the museum -- planted in 1915 for the city's famous Panama-California Exhibition. Inside, visitors tilt heads upward to gaze at a realistic looking replica of an extinct megalodon shark, inspired by teeth collected from Miocene sandstones in Oceanside, California, and near Ensenada, Baja California. Minerals are "hidden" throughout the museum. WE WATCHED people posing for animated selfies in the atrium there, and knew we were in for a treat by the pleased comments of visitors coming and going. Evolution and diversity are what this well established museum is about. Founded in 1874, the San Diego Society of Natural History is the oldest scientific institution in southern California, and the third oldest west of the Mississippi. The name was tweaked as the building and ambitions grew and the Society grew from a small group of natural history lovers and collectors to a large museum with 8 million specimens, spectacular outreach programs, and award-winning exhibitions. So for nearly a century and a half, the organization has delighted and educated hundreds of thousands of us . Bruce Keller, left, with Sue and John Speight, and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, in Balboa Park. WE TOOK GUESTS, a pair of history buffs from York, England. They're natural history museum aficionados, having visited some of the great ones around the world: Vienna, Cambridge, London, Dublin, Geneva. Our San Diego treasure, they noted, is no slouch, compared to the others these world travelers have seen. For 150 years, the organization has studied, protected, and introduced people to nature's wonders. Its museum doesn't disappoint. Exhibits span five levels with a sparkling and clever "hidden gems" display starting in a small corner of the basement, then appearing on a corner of each floor, thus the "hidden" moniker. On up to the ground entrance floor, or Level 1, as it's called, for several learning labs about various topics including your own back yard. A wonderful movie theater shows three revolving films. We picked "Dinosaurs of Antarctica" -- thoroughly entertaining. We followed this fascinating creature from Permian through Jurassic periods -- emerging from his south polar landscapes hundreds of millions of years ago. The museum's open, airy expanse offers a pleasant perspective and draws the eye upwards and around. WATCHING AN engaging film with friends about our own planet and the creatures who struggled for survival gave us fodder for dinner conversation later in the day, as we pondered the emergence of giant mammals, fierce carnivores, gentle vegetarian giants and the scientists who work to understand the effect of the ice continent's transformation on us. Two other films rotate -- and both won praise from viewers and fellow museum enthusiasts we met. A grade-school teacher with her charges said "The Story of Earth" had her class spellbound. "It takes the planet from dying stars, through collisions in space into the world we know today -- with life forms unknown elsewhere in the universe." All with beautiful special effects, she said, and dialogue that kept easily distracted kids entertained. "Ocean Oasis" is the third film, which takes viewers on a journey through two seemingly opposite worlds -- Mexico's Sea of Cortes and the great Baja California desert. A beautiful fig tree graces the lawn in front of the museum. The stately tree is one of the oldest in California. OTHER EXHIBITS include "The Living Lab," a display popular with curious youngsters and others of us who love critters. We viewed lizards, snakes, scorpions and more; "Coast to Cactus" shows the diversity of this corner of California where a person can surf in the ocean, hike in the desert and ski on a hilltop in the same day. There's a wonderful dinosaur skeleton replica -- cast from bones found in Utah; 200 (count 'em!) skulls of every kind, a lovely California flowers photo display, fossils and "Cool Stuff From Storage," which shows off intriguing items from the archives. An exhibit on Baja is coming soon. A fascinating exhibit on amazing discoveries by ordinary people caught Cookie's attention. The museum is respected for its outings and video offerings: A "Virtual Live Lesson: Earth Wants You" is Friday, April 22, at 10 a.m. "Nature Hike: Pacific Crest Trail - Eagle Rock," is Sunday, April 24, at 9 a.m.; "Nat Talk: Picture a Scientist," is Thursday, April 28, at 6:30 p.m.; "City Nature Challenge" is Friday, April 29, at 3:41 p.m.; "Nature Hike: Oakoasis Preserve, Oak Grove Trail," is May 7 (check the museum for time.) The popular "Nat Talks" feature museum staff and other experts speaking on the latest in scientific research, history, conservation, and the natural world. The museum's website is a good place to confirm times and get a wealth of information about changing exhibits and outings. Remember that residents can visit Balboa Park museums free on rotating days throughout the month. sdnat.org Bruce Keller admires a mural at Hilo, Hawaii's famed Lyman Museum and Mission House, which takes visitors on a colorful, engaging tour of the islands' history. UP NEXT : While we're visiting world class museums, check out this one -- even if only by "armchair travel." In Hilo, Hawaii, the Lyman Museum and Mission House takes visitors into the natural and cultural history of the Hawaiian Islands with over 20,000 square feet of stunning galleries. Affiliated with the Smithsonian, the two-part museum includes fascinating exhibits and a 19th Century Mission House. Volcanoes, wildlife, sea life, nature habitats and more await. Meanwhile remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts: www.whereiscookie.com
- Hotel La Casa del Zorro offers desert pampering, scenery and fine food
The soothing environment of La Casa del Zorro is designed with comfort and relaxation in mind, but there is plenty to do if you're an "active type." Something for everyone, since its 1937 opening. Below, sunset from La Casa del Zorro's pool area is a gorgeous sight . ELEGANCE, AMBIANCE, NATURE MAKE A STUNNING, RELAXING RETREAT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER STEP INTO a world of pampering perfection with artful touches at every sun-soaked turn. From left, Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, with UK pals, Sue and John Speight . International visitors enjoy dinner at Fox Bistro, always a fun night out. This is your world for a few treasured days at La Casa del Zorro, a true find if you're looking for a place to unplug, enjoy and indulge your senses. The light is lovely in this jewel of southern Coachella Valley. Each sun dappled corner of this well managed place welcomes you to picturesque surroundings. You feel healthier the moment you enter the cozy yet elegant reception area where veteran host Mona or one of her able colleagues checks you in. The whole tasteful place is right out of a desert painting. Carefully planted cacti, palms and desert perennials grace walkways framed by subtle Spanish colonial architecture. Nature-inspired touches greet the visitor -- weathered stone, polished wood, showy seasonal perennials. THE "ZORRO" is a perfect place to hike, relax with a favorite book and beverage at the lap pool, or choose from a life-size chess game, horseshoes, bocci ball, croquet, ping pong, yoga, pickleball, tennis or shuffleboard. The spa has a fine reputation for its pampering. We brought our portable Scrabble game, but didn't have time, choosing a complimentary bike ride instead. Yoga instructor Paul, a native of Holland, at the gazebo where yoga is offered. Live music is often offered at dinner, here Cookie admires! As the day dwindles, an elegantly served meal awaits at Fox Bistro, often with live music. Earlier, you've enjoyed complimentary breakfast. Admire celestial wonders from a star-gazing theater or relax by the kiva fire pit. A DVD player and complimentary movies are yours, too, if you're not yet lulled to the arms of Morpheus by the calming ambiance of this unique and restful place. I BEGAN my day twice with a rejuvenating complimentary yoga meditation class. The resort's instructor is an amiable Dutchman, Paul, who has studied and taught this restorative mind-and-body art for many years. Lucky California to be the recipient of his talent, since leaving his native Amsterdam to settle near Borrego Springs with his business-career wife. He was the "frosting on the cake" -- a wonderful, calming treat during a perfect three days, one of many surprises and delights. Walking trails lead the way to tennis courts, a yoga pavilion, individual cabanas, desert plants. We visited with friends from England. They, too, found the resort a pleasure and spent several hours basking in their private poolside cabana, treasuring each sunny moment -- a treat after a soggy, chilly winter in their native Yorkshire. IF YOGA is not your thing, a game of tennis might be the ticket. Or simply stroll well marked nature trails. Enjoy a few hours with a good book by the immaculate pool -- or share a cool beverage poolside in your own cabana, using your complimentary drink coupon, a lovely touch. With a history dating back to 1937, the hotel has survived change and is flourishing. You're living a life of ease, comfort and relaxation. So enjoy it. Back inside your room, stretch out to admire desert inspired paintings and sculpture. Each guest room and casita is individually adorned with artwork and antiques. Artful appointments are part of the charm -- each room has unique pieces . The place is beloved for its understated elegance, superior service and artful decor. Bruce Keller and Cookie Meyers take to the desert on desert paths near the resort. It's a serene, get-away in the Anza Borrego desert is just a mile from the small friendly town of Borrego Springs. But it is light years away from the rest of the world as the only five-star resort in the area. Happily, the resort has survived several names and physical incarnations. A few years ago, the Zorro was lovingly restored by a dynamic investor-developer-hotelier trio. Jack McGrory, Casey Brown and Jack Giacomini blended contemporary convenience and amenities with classic desert architecture with a pleasing nod to nostalgia. A world-class golf course, perfectly manicured, is steps away at La Casa del Zorro. THE ZORRO opened in 1937 as a small desert lodge, evolving into today's world class resort. Through the years, Hollywood discovered it, and San Diego social and business icons hob-nobbed, golfed, sunbathed, swam, drank and dined here. Another view of the changing light, a constant pleasure. Ricardo Breceda's sculpture is nearby, another treat. Presidents Nixon and George H.W. Bush, actor Marlon Brando and others came, seeking the solitude and serenity that mark a visit. Noted sculptor Ricardo Breceda maintains a shop on the property and his whimsical metal creatures grace the grounds and surrounding properties. One of his friendly T-Rex creations greets guests! And a world-class public golf course is minutes away. Rams Hill is one of the most beautiful in the world, a spectacular $22 million Fazio desert course. And famed sculptor, Ricardo Breceda, has positioned dozens of his whimsical art pieces in the desert surrounding the resort. This is worth a few hours on its own, a lovely complement to the resort's artwork. "Keller and Cookie" learned about the deadly effects of tsunamis, in a recent visit to Hilo's Pacific Tsunami Museum. UP NEXT: It's nearing hurricane season as we visit a museum dedicated to one of the fiercest forces of nature, the tsunami. One of the only museums devoted entirely to this horrifying act of nature is in Hilo, Hawaii, and gives a fascinating overview of the deadly waves and damage they've done. We learned about the origins and causes of tsunami waves. Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and explosions all have the potential to generate a tsunami. We found the museum riveting and hope you will, too. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Hilo's Tsunami Museum packs a powerful punch with frightening exhibits, films, commentary
The dreaded tsunami was the focus of an interesting afternoon for Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, who visited the engaging Pacific Tsunami Museum in Hilo, Hawaii . An extensive collection of photos, oral histories, videos, artifacts and displays awaits. We recommend staying at Hilton's Grand Naniloa Hotel, a welcoming Double Tree with gorgeous harbor views. The wreckage caused by a tsunami is enormous. The Hilo museum explores the causes of the killer waves. KILLER WAVES EXPLORED IN VIVID DETAIL AT PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM IN HILO, HAWAII ENHANCE YOUR VISIT WITH A SPLENDID VIEW AT GRAND NANILOA HILTON DOUBLE TREE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Dramatic displays tell the story of how humanity is affected by tsunami's horrors. TSUNAMIS are among the planet's most fearsome natural disasters. And nowhere are people more aware of the dangers of this raging act of nature than in the Hawaiian Islands. In Hilo, Tsunami sirens are on alert and school children are taught to watch for warning signs: tremors, roars from the ocean, receding waters exposing the sea floor. All spell impending doom. Evacuation Zones are marked and families store emergency kits. Since 1812, more than 160 confirmed tsunamis have been recorded on the islands, causing countless deaths and damage topping $625 million. The April, 1946, tsunami in Hilo alone, killed 159 people and destroyed $26 million in property. Its cause was an undersea earthquake off the Alaskan coast triggering the massive Big Island tsunami. IT SEEMS fitting, then, that the world's only museum dedicated entirely to the tsunami is located in Hilo. Tsunamis around the world are explored in well designed displays with photographs, news clips. The fascinating Pacific Tsunami Museum -- a thoughtfully renovated bank-- tells the fearsome tale of the tsunami, pronounced soo-NAH-mee, and its impact in Japan, Alaska, the Indian Ocean and elsewhere. Taken from the Japanese, tsunami means "harbor wave" but is usually a series of waves caused by an underwater disturbance. Earthquakes, landslides and volcanic eruptions are among tsunami's chief causes. Getting a breath of fresh air after the intensity of the fine Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo's small but excellent museum interestingly weaves specific tsunami occurrences with data, photographs and narrative. It features an interesting mix of scientific exhibits. A favorite with school children is an interactive wave-making model which allows the visitor to make his own miniature tsunami. Stories of rescues and heroism are also well told. AN ABSORBING film includes moving personal anecdotes of brave tsunami survivors, interlaced with graphic details of personal brushes with monster waves. The museum is all about stories and tells them well. Diagrams, maps, newspaper accounts and displays show various horrifying tsunamis over the last 500 years. Visitors learn what caused them and see stories of the human survival spirit. Maps show "runup points" -- measurements of the heights wave reach. Positano today is a highlight on Italy's Amalfi coast. In 1343, it was the scene of a huge tsunami which destroyed the town, ending the republic's sea power days. Where tsunamis were caused by earthquakes, the quake's magnitude is analyzed through wave energy creating this fearsome natural disaster. TSUNAMIS GO back centuries. The oldest recorded one occurred in 479 BC, destroying a Persian army attacking Potidaea, Greece. Fast forward to 1958, in a display recounting effects of a huge tsunami triggered by an Alaskan landslide. Its 1,700-foot wave -- the largest ever recorded -- inundated five square miles of land and cleared thousands of trees. Another catastrophe occurred in Europe on the Amalfi coast, where we've many times visited. In its maritime republic days, it was a thriving port with a wealthy population of 70,000. The ocean awaits, with beautifully landscaped grounds, at Grand Naniloa Hotel in Hilo, Hawaii. That was until 1343 when it was wiped out. A massive earthquake under the Tyrrhenian Sea sparked a devastating tsunami along southern Italy's coast. Amalfi’s harbor and its boats were destroyed; the lower town fell into the sea. A once thriving city shrank to a village of 6,000, ending Amalfi's days as a sea power. THE LOVELY stretch of coastline from north of Naples to south of the Cilento National Park bore the brunt of the huge killer wave, which wiped out the towns of Bussanto and Blanda, near present-day resorts of Sapri and Maratea. Both Naples and nearby Salerno suffered huge damage, including a death toll of tens of thousands. The Hilo museum is a testimony both to the power of the tsunami and the power of the human spirit. More information on this intriguing museum : www.tsunami.org Best bet for your Hilo stay: Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo, www.grandnaniloahilo.com A refreshing green tea drink is served at Just Matcha Tea Shop, one of seven varied stops on a highly recommended "Taste of Victoria" food tour. UP NEXT: Food glorious food! Plus history, exercise, variety, fun. Victoria, British Columbia, has much to recommend it, and we frequent visitors found a new, delightful, food-sampling, history-telling venue. We take readers on a "Taste of Victoria" food tour, Canada's top-rated food tour, with stops at a variety of large and small bars, eateries and food stands. We found it an engaging way to spend a few hours. Owner Andy Olson delivers a delightful time showing his love both of food and his adopted city. Rain or shine, he takes foodies and history lovers around downtown Victoria, from tea and sweets shops to pubs, Indonesian and barbecue eateries and other hidden gems in this lively, historic city where he knows everyone. Remember to explore, learn, live and catch us weekly. Please share: www.whereiscookie.com
- Salute to the euduring Queen Elizabeth II, from a loyal American fan
Queen Elizabeth II, watches a "fly-past" of the Royal Air Force, with Prince Charles, heir to the throne, and her great-grandchildren, Prince Louis and Princess Charlotte, and their mother, Catherine Middleton, who became the Duchess of Cambridge when she married Prince William. LONG LIVE THE QUEEN AS AN AMERICAN WRITER RECALLS LONDON VISITS, ROYAL ENCOUNTERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER & C MEYERS and courtesy The Times of London and CNN Thousands are gathering in the Mall outside Buckingham Palace in a four-day holiday celebrating Queen Elizabeth II's remarkable, record-setting 70 years on the throne. Here the Royal Air Force does a "fly-past" as it is known in the UK. MY AFFECTION for Queen Elizabeth dates to her coronation and my introduction to television. As a toddler in 1953, I sat fascinated on my mum's knee as we watched history and majesty unfold. What transpired on our new black and white TV heralded the beginning of my lifelong fascination with London and the Royals. It also represented the introduction to the world of television as mainstream media. LITTLE DID I know how remarkable QEII's reign would be -- or that I would be invited to cover her Silver Jubilee in 1977. Or that as a travel writer, I would visit London dozens of times and write about it for magazines and newspapers. Lifelong love of the Royals Street parties were everywhere in 1977, when Christene "Cookie" Meyers covered QEII's Silver Jubilee. Thousands of parties are taking place this week as well, throughout England. In July of 1977, at London's posh Intercontinental Hotel on Hyde Park, as champagne flowed, I learned with 49 other American journalists the protocol for meeting royals. While we were told there were no obligatory rules for Americans meeting royals, we females were urged by a protocol advisor to give a small, polite curtsy. Men were to give a neck bow, from the head only. This was in preparation to our meeting Princess Anne and the "Queen Mum," at a gala black tie party the next evening. THAT MEMORABLE weekend was 45 years ago, celebrating QEII's 25 years on the throne. Although we didn't meet the Queen, we saw her from the crowd as she waved from the famous Buckingham Palace balcony. Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip wave at the crowds at her coronation in 1953. This is her first celebration without her husband of 73 years. We did meet Princess Anne at the world premiere of the latest James Bond film, "The Spy Who Loved Me." We also met the Queen Mum at a pub in Leicester Square near the Odeon Theater where many activities took place and she pulled her own pint and finished it with a gin chaser. I'VE WATCHED "The Crown," have seen many plays on the royal family, read biographies and visited their palaces and castles. But I'll never forget that long ago black-and-white viewing of the coronation. The young queen was beautiful; the event was magical. I memorized the names of the eight grey gelding horses which pulled her and Prince Philip in the gold state coach: Cunningham, Tovey, Noah, Tedder, Eisenhower, Snow White, Tipperary and McCreery. Westminster Abbey is one of the world's most famous examples of gothic architecture. James Bond, Princess Anne, Cookie The Admiralty on London's Trafalgar Square is a favorite of locals and visitors, who enjoy its old-timey feeling in a decor suggesting a ship. The pub is one of hundreds celebrating the Queen's Jubilee. I adored those horses, the pomp and circumstance, the jewels, the hats. I supposedly told my mother, "I'm going to to ' West Minister " to pray for the Queen." (That often quoted family malaprop came from an awestruck four-year old's lips.) A dozen years later as a teen-age visitor to London, my first London stop was Buckingham Palace, then Westminster Abbey, where QE2 became the thirty-ninth sovereign to be crowned. That magnificent gothic building is one of the world's most famous architectural masterpieces with its magnificent stained glass, sweeping arches, vaulted ceilings and gargoyles. I never tire of a visit. I IMAGINE 1245 when King Henry III pulled down the eastern part of the 11th Century Abbey and made it his own, complete with flying buttresses. For even on our little 16-inch telly -- the largest money could buy at the time -- I was hooked on history, royalty and marvelous old buildings. IN DOZENS of visits to the UK, I never miss a chance to hoist a pint in a pub, or take a side trip to Windsor, Sandringham or Balmoral or any of the string of palatial residences owned by the royals. Hats off to the Royals Princess Diana, Prince Charles on wedding day. The Queen has seen Diana die and Charles remarry, to his longtime mistress, Camilla. IF MY MOTHER had lived, she'd be a year younger than the Queen. Prince Charles is just a couple years older than I, so one could say I've grown up with the royal family. I've followed their triumphs and tragedies. I set my alarm to watch the wedding of Prince Charles and Diana, then again, the wedding of Prince William and Katherine Middleton. Didn't miss a minute of Diana's touching funeral, and am tuning in to ABC to watch highlights of the four-day 70th Jubilee Celebration. A highlight: the Queen's pre-recorded tea party with Paddington Bear. Delightful fun. Queen Elizabeth II is surrounded by, left, her son Charles, the Prince of Wales, next in line to the throne, Prince George and his father Prince William, whose mother was Princess Diana. Although she was only 25 when she was proclaimed Queen after her father died in 1952, she would have just turned 27 when she was officially crowned in June, 1953, after the customary mourning period. The coronation pre-empted "I Love Lucy" and "Dragnet." More than 20 million tuned in. It was the first time in history that a TV audience outnumbered radio's. I've grown up with TV -- and the Royal Family. My favorite corner of Westminster, the Lady Chapel, last phase to be finished. I admire the Queen for her fortitude and grace. She's seen the family through scandal and tragedy, divorce and controversy. She grieved the loss of her husband of 73 years and has lately experienced issues with balance and walking. Of course. She's nearly a century old, bless her. She still enjoys a daily cocktail, pets her beloved corgis and chats up the next generation, her great-grandchildren. Yes, she's the world's richest woman and lives what many consider an extravagant, pampered life, but it must also be lonely at times. Her only sister and best friend, Princess Margaret, has been gone for years. Yet she arises each day, faces the world, goes to work, does her duty. For me, she is an endearing, enduring figure, a "grand dame" in the grandest sense. MORE INFORMATION: To watch the festivities, tune in to ABC, which per an agreement with BBC, is broadcasting live from London and Buckingham Palace through the weekend. Come aboard the Love Tours "hippie bus" for a fun time in San Francisco. Here Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller pau se in the wind by Golden Gate Bridge. UP NEXT: We're aging hippies, and sometimes we listen to the music from "The Summer of Love." So come with us on the "Hippie Bus," for a Love Tour of San Francisco. We take a magical trip aboard the colorful VW bus to Haight Ashbury, accompanied by the music of Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin. Love Tours tells the tale of a generation which shaped music, politics and art. It's counter-culture time and we promise a lively experience. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, music, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link.
- 'Love Tour' takes visitors around San Francisco with a hippie spin
A VW bus is painted in colorful fashion as Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller enjoy a tour down memory lane to the summer of love and more. JANIS, JIMI, HISTORY, ART, HAIGHT-ASHBURY COME ALIVE ABOARD VW 'HIPPIE BUS' TOUR STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Above, top right: the home of famed guitarist Jimi Hendrix at 1524 Haight Street, is featured on entertaining Love Tour. Above, the neatly mowed lawns of The Presidio. FROM ITS famous streets to its nightclubs, galleries, monuments, stately mansions, street musicians, dive bars, posh eateries and renowned cable cars, San Francisco is a city to behold, savor and revisit. The city's Love Tours is a heartfelt way to see this intriguing and mixed-bag town in new light. Whether you're a frequent visitor or a newcomer to the city by the bay, this entertaining look at one of the world's most photographed towns is guaranteed to have you tapping your toes and remembering way back when. We two aging hippies booked the tour, which includes a musical soundtrack as visitors admire the sights and streets, bars and cafes frequented by the hippie generation during the 1960s and '70s. But San Francisco's Love Tours is more than that. It weaves in the broader history of the town, too -- its ethnic mix, architecture, military past, the great 1906 earthquake and fire and more. Five buses and a cadre of expert driver/guides take tourists down a splashy memory lane featuring not only the beat generation, but highlights of one of the world's most colorful cities. C rooked Lombard Street -- designed in 1922 -- is the result of engineers who deemed the hill too steep for vehicles. From book stores to military housing and time honored nightclubs, we explored this pretty city of hills, parks, winding streets, tattoo parlors and more. WE SAW sturdy buildings that survived the 1906 earthquake, buildings erected for the Pan Pacific Exposition in 1915 to herald the opening of the Panama Canal, and the stately, well manicured digs of the Presidio which dates back to 1776. The Presidio represents the longest operating Army installation in the American West, and California's days as both a Spanish colony and territory of Mexico. A vintage fire truck by The Cannery near Fisherman's Wharf, is another tour in historic, lively San Francisco. This interesting part of town -- near fabled Golden Gate Bridge -- reflects the spirit of the city: a pleasing urban suburban mix with plenty of bars, restaurants, coffee shops, and parks. We savored it all, with a leisurely look at the elegant Palace of Fine Arts. WE STOPPED beneath the much photographed Golden Gate Bridge, while listening to the van's varied soundtrack including Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and a mix of other iconic singers. Our group of six sang along with Joplin's "Mercedes Benz," then Roger Miller's "King of the Road" and the original Andrews Sisters' "Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy." Wayne Newton, the aging king of the fabled Las Vegas strip, made a guest appearance with a couple tunes. Remember "Danke Schoen"? We did. Japan Center is symbolic of what gives San Diego its international feel. So we could take photos, our amiable driver Andrew drove patiently past the home of Jimi Hendrix twice, pausing for photos at the intersection of Haight and Ashbury streets, “The Haight” still exudes vibes of the 1960s counterculture and its revolutionary spirit. Andrew described the culture then and now, noting vintage clothes shops, music stores, pop posters and body piercing shops. Although the Summer of Love ended decades ago, Haight-Ashbury has morphed into an eye-catching melting pot of hippies, hipsters, and professionals. As we drove through its streets, we stepped back in time. Grateful Dead tunes emphasized our time travel. SOON, ANDREW cautiously turned down Lombard Street, that famously crooked avenue. He skillfully maneuvered eight hairpin turns and pointed out beautifully landscaped flowerbeds. Alfred, both driver and guide, has a keen sense of humor and provided plenty of amusing anecdotes, stops for photographs and places to use the bathroom. Between soundtracks, he regaled us with tales of the key players in San Francisco's hippie days. A day care group trudges up a hill in a "buddy rope" which helps keep them together and navigate the slopes. THE CITY has been home to scores of the rich, famous and notorious. Andrew had insights into Patty Hearst, and her time in San Francisco. Like any good tour guide, he was interested in our questions and take on things, including the town's mansions, neighborhoods and its impact on us. He knew the childhood home of Mel Blanc, that unforgettable voice of Bugs Bunny and dozens of other cartoon characters. He pointed out two homes inhabited at various times by actor Nicholas Cage. He explained the city's evolution and its changing neighborhoods, pointing out that stately homes in now gentrified neighborhoods have replaced bawdy pockets of cheap rent. The draw for young folks was excitement, the counterculture's promise of "drug, sex and rock 'n' roll." It still has an appeal. If you look closely, you'll see a blue heron in the center tree, in a much loved oasis, center stage in Golden Gate Park. WE STOPPED in the middle of Golden Gate Park to admire a blue heron, nesting above the lake -- a wonderful sight in a city of 875,000 people. It was fun, too, to be noticed in the classic, colorfully painted VW van, Love Tours' symbol. People often flashed us the peace sign, and we were photographed by at least a dozen other tourists. The advertising gimmick of the colorful VW van is an effective marketing tool for a happy, entertaining half-day in a fascinating, ever changing city. More information for a delightful San Francisco tour option. Five-star fun. www.sanfranciscolovetours.com And for bargains in the city and 14 other American destinations, we recommend: www.cityPASS.com A house for Yellowstone National Park workers hits the river near Gardiner, Montana, now off limits. UP NEXT: Montana and Yellowstone National Park are faced with tremendous flood damage due to heavy rainfall and hot temperatures which have forced snow from the mountains in terrifying record-breaking river water levels. Yellowstone has closed all five of its gates to tourists, evacuating visitors and cancelling reservations. This is a first in the park's 150 years. The north part of the park may not be reopened until much later but workers are struggling with other entrances. We're traveling through that part of the world right now, so we'll take you there. Remember to explore, learn, and live and catch us weekly for an update on nature, travel, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link.
- Ketchikan catch-up: eagles, waterfalls and a smuggling bordello
Ketchikan's Creek Street is as bustling now, differently than in the 1930s when booze and brothels were the order of the day. Now, it's tourism, and the street is lined with shops, galleries and cafes. CRUIN'S TOUR: STORIES, SIGHTS, SOARING EAGLES, TOTEM POLES AND GALLERIES Totem poles in Ketchikan tell sacred stories. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU MAY think you know Ketchikan, if you've been in and out on a cruise ship to take a half-day tour. But you haven't really seen this lovely "first" Alaskan town unless you've toured it with a jovial transplanted Scotsman named Cruin MacGriogair. Since it was our fifth visit, we were looking for something new and found this charming tour guide, woodcarver, philosopher on line. He met us dressed in a traditional kilt -- he's a big guy, so it's a big kilt -- and began a lively tour of this 1880s village turned bustling tourist spot. This stunning scenery is what attracted Cruin and enticed him from his native Scotland. Bruce Keller and Cruin MacGriogair talk history. The town gets its "first" moniker because it is set at the southernmost entrance to Alaska's famed Inside Passage -- network of waterways that snake through some of the world's most stunning wilderness. It's the "first" town most tourists see on their trek into our 49th state. SO WHY DID did MacGriogair trade pastoral Edinburgh, Scotland, for the rugged beauty of Ketchikan? "Why? Just look at this," he says, sweeping his hand affectionately across the horizon. "Beauty everywhere." On that note, we set off for Cruin's take on the town's most famous Creek Street. He pointed out a sign for "Married Man's Trail," where men could sneak along a woodsy trail to reach the brothels on Creek Street below undetected. Cruin displayed his custom made tools, with which he carves and creates one-of-a-kind art. Brothels were big business with 30 operating between 1903 and the 1953 closure of the infamous red light district. Its most famous madam, Dolly, operated until then and is vividly remembered in Dolly's House and Museum, complete with red satin curtains, appropriate for a red light district. CRUIN TOLD TALES of a hidden trap door through which booze boxes were smuggled into boats on the river below, and through which partiers could escape during raids. Because a "Cruin tour" is custom designed, this amiable guide will stop for whatever piques your fancy. Here, he pulled over so we could photograph this beautiful bald eagle on a drive outside town. We drove both ends of the town and beyond, traveling the Tongass Highway-- to the controversial new cruise ship dock (large ships pay less here, docking a few kilometers from the city) to the other end of town with beautiful trees and abundant bird life. He stopped so we could photograph a bald eagle and answered questions about berry bushes and trees, showing knowledge and enthusiasm for his chosen home. THE PLACE has a wild feel, with both fishing and timber still a large part of the economy. Tourism, of course, is the third side of Ketchikan's economic triangle. Cruin's delightful tour is custom designed. The visitor tells him what he wants to see. We said "take us off the beaten track," and he did, with history, art, dining and shopping tips. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller at a "Cruin stop." Our ship was among three that recent day, when the town's 6,000 people are visited by thousands of tourists departing ships to spend their day seeing the sights and shopping. NEARLY ALL come away with a package of salmon, since Ketchikan is the world's salmon capital. At the salmon industry's peak in the 1930s, there were 13 canneries exporting tens of thousands of pounds of salmon. WHAT GIVES the town its name? Ketchikan comes from the Tlingit name for the creek, Kitschk-hin, which likely means "the river belonging to Kitschk." We learned of other possible meanings, including my favorite: "Thundering Wings of an Eagle." Cruin also emphasized that native peoples inhabited the area for centuries before its 1886 settlement, which explains the town's fascination with Native American artifacts and totem poles, both on display throughout town. A skilled carver himself, Cruin makes his own tools, so he knows the painstaking way in which totems are created. He also shared insight into the word "totem.” It's a reference to a guardian, ancestral being, or a supernatural spirit, and can also symbolize significant events. The Tlingit call the totem pole "kooteeyaa,” meaning "people of the other side.” THE TOWN'S colorful and continually changing totem poles tell the history of its people through these eye-catching, wooden sculptures. We'd seen Totem Bright State Historical Park with its extensive totem collection so we asked Cruin to show us his town's unique poles instead. With his wife Elizabeth, of native descent, he's studied many Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian totem poles. Some are under restoration, others recently preserved, a few need work and the town plans to see that done, Cruin said. Crazy Wolf Studio offers unique masks, authentic glass and carved wooden art and a fine selection of tasteful souvenirs. WE'D EARLIER toured nearby Misty Fiords National Monument, a glacier-carved wilderness with snowcapped mountains, waterfalls and salmon spawning streams. It's fun to see once but you'll find a more vivid insider's tour through Cruin's own stories and close-up bird, forest and nature stops. A beautiful sculptural bear commands center stage at Ketchikan's Tongass Historical Museum . WE RECOMMEND a stop at Totem Heritage Center, a downtown museum that houses precious 19th-century totem poles collected and preserved with permission from the Alaska Native elders, and Saxman Totem Park, home to 25 totems -- well done, authentic replicas of original poles found left in abandoned villages as Native Alaskans moved into more populated cities. And do ask Cruin to take you to his favorite gallery, Crazy Wolf Studio, where native American artist Ken Decker's exquisite work is on view. It's a museum quality collection of masks, beadwork, glass and carvings, plus for the budget minded, beautiful native inspired notecards, vivid prints and elegant dream catchers. www.ktn-ak.us www.crazywolfstudio.com www.ketchikantours.biz A conductor brings the train in aboard the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, with spectacular scenery. UP NEXT: We're north -- in Alaska, with highlights of several days spent there recently. Next up, we ride the chilly rails into Yukon territory aboard one of the world's most exciting trains. Then we're whale watching in Juneau, for humpbacks, orcas and a bevy of dolphins. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at nature, adventure, travel, family and the arts. Please follow us and share the link: www.whereiscookie.com
- Cruise up for a wild scenic ride on White Horse, Yukon Pass rail trip
We've taken this spectacular rail journey several times -- late summer, fall and recently, when snow can still be seen, with wildflowers. White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad from Skagway is a stunning trip. We recommend booking passage on Norwegian Cruise Line's Bliss for the key Alaska stops. EXPLORE SKAGWAY'S SPLENDORS AFTER ARRIVING IN STYLE AND COMFORT ON NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE'S BLISS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SKAGWAY IS known perhaps best for its rugged rail ride deep into Yukon territory. We've found the best way to ease into this spectacular beauty is from an equally spectacular ship, and Norwegian Cruise Line's Bliss is a favorite. It offers pampering preparation for a traverse of dangerous mountain passes, with lively commentary on the daring souls who explored the region in search of adventure and riches. All aboard, as the train pulls into the Skagway station for a trip into Alaska's wilderness -- still chilly in summer. IT'S DIFFICULT to imagine our forefathers blasting a train track through the granite rock of Alaska's spectacular White Pass in the winter freeze of minus 60 degrees. All heads are turned toward spectacular scenery. But they did! We followed in their footsteps -- the easy way -- on a recent cruise to Alaska with a stop in Skagway. Our gear included binoculars, protein bars, bottled water and winter coats. We weren't carrying the pick-axes and dynamite our ancestors needed, and we rode no hungry horses. Instead, we viewed Skagway from our Bliss balcony while slipping on winter coats. We were glad for them -- as we left our cozy stateroom to answer the "all aboard" call and ride the spectacular iron rail. SKAGWAY IS on Alaska's panhandle, a compact city in the state's southeast, along the popular cruise route the Inside Passage. It's home to early gold-rush-era buildings, carefully preserved as part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. There's the Red Onion Saloon, established in 1898 as a bordello for lonely miners and today a popular downtown saloon. This colorful and lively place houses a museum that preserves the seamy history of the town. So have a wee nip there, then head for the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, which accommodates thousands of Skagway cruise visitors each year. It combines scenery with history in comfy cars driven by vintage locomotives and provides an entertaining morning or afternoon to give you a great overview of the city's past and important place in Alaska's development. NCL's Bliss stops in stunning Skagway, after visiting Ketchikan and Juneau. The ship's unique rounded floor to ceiling windows in comfy lounges offer spectacular views of Glacier Bay. Picturesque Skagway is home to sled dogs and mushers, beer makers, glass blowers, fishermen and wood carvers. IF YOU HAVE not been to Skagway, you'll want to make this stop, even if for only a day on a cruise. We've visited a half-dozen times, and recommend NCL's sleek and inviting Bliss which makes all the important Alaska stops, departing from Seattle. Once in Skagway, traverse the steep Chilkoot trail to see sweeping mountain views as you climb from ship to train toward Canada. THERE'S PLENTY to do in Skagway if you're here for several days: dog sledding, gold rush history and an interesting main street with restored buildings. We left our "Blissful" comforts and Skagway behind, to climb past gorgeous falls, gulches, canyons and riverbeds white with winter's snow, heading to White Pass Summit's international boundary between U.S. and Canada. As spring comes, the mountains green up and on the curves, passengers can view the impressive length of the train. A lively commentary describes the building of this legendary railroad and the brave men who cut grade on Tunnel Mountain and other foreboding hills to accommodate determined, even frenzied gold miners. THE HISTORY dates to 1896 when George Carmack and two Indian companions, Skookum Jim and Dawson Charlie, found a few golden flakes in Bonanza Creek in the Klondike. Although their discovery barely filled the spent cartridge of a Winchester rifle, it triggered a stampede for riches. The Klondike gold Rush was on. A detail of the massive snow plow used by the train in winter. Our knowledgeable guide didn't sugarcoat this colorful episode in history. It had its tragic side. More than 30 men were killed during the building of 110 miles of track and many horses and pack animals plunged to their deaths or starved in the bitter cold and treacherous pathway. NOT ALL miners thought to bring proper horse feed or treat their faithful pack animals with care. Some of the work took place in dead of winter when heavy snows blocked the 16-degree turns and temperatures plunged to minus 60 degrees. WE ENJOYED the cars' names -- they're all christened after lakes and rivers in Alaska, Yukon and British Columbia. Most are at least 40 years old. Lake Tutshi, vintage 1893, which starred in the 1935 movie, "Diamond Jim Brady," or Lake Lebarge, which carried Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip on the same trek we took -- back in 1959. The oldest car is Lake Emerald, built in 1883 and still traveling the line. Snow melt provides gushing streams; the train tour offers stunning views of the gullies and ravines on the route. Along the route, there's plenty of history -- of the vigorous miners who dared the dangers of the pass in search of their fortune and other enterprising souls whose luck was not with them. Various shady characters tried to cash in on the miners, including George Brackett, a one-time construction engineer who built a 12- mile toll road up White Pass canyon. This worked for a brief time, until angry miners tossed the toll gates down a ravine making his road a failure. But clever Brackett made out well, eventually, when White Pass and Yukon Railroad Company organized and paid him $110,000 for the a right-of-way. Safely back from a thrilling rail ride, "Keller and Cookie" head back to NCL's Bliss. On our return back towards Skagway with its quaint pastel buildings, we took a last look at the Sawtooth Mountains and admired the bright colored flora: golden arnica, pink fireweed, purple monkshood, scarlet columbine, lavender geranium, white yarrow and the deep red berries of the mountain ash. Soon, NCL's Bliss welcomed us home. For more information or to book an NCL cruise : ncl.com , 866.234.7350. To book the rail excursion : 1 800 343-7373; info@wpyr.com All eyes are on the horizon as an orca pod is spotted. UP NEXT : Juneau is the place to be if you're looking for superb marine-life viewing. There's much more to Alaska's capital city than Sarah Palin. We take readers on a wild and chilly whale and dolphin watching tour. It's good fun and a serious boat ride deep into the Gastineau Channel and Alaskan panhandle. The air is crisp, the sun shines bright and the whale-watching boats are back in business with Juneau Tours and Whale Watch. You're in for an exciting whale watching tour, one of the best we've experienced in looking for whales on several continents. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly! www.whereiscookie.com
- Whale of a time awaits in remote, breezy, gorgeous waters of Juneau
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers aboard a Juneau Tours and Whale Watch vessel. The well run company is family owned and prides itself in personalized service -- and whale viewing! Juneau's harbor has a pastoral feel, almost painting-like. The surrounding forest and scenery are spectacular. ORCAS, HUMPBACKS, DOLPHINS, EAGLES, PLUS WILD, UNTAMED SCENERY AWAIT WITH JUNEAU WHALE WATCH Yes, it's in the distance, but it's a definite whale sighting. The boat will pull slowly closer. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SOME OF the best whale watching in the world happens off the North American continent in the chilly, lively waters of Juneau, Alaska. Alaska's capital city is thriving again and the whale business is back. After a couple rough financial years -- without the usual tourism that feeds the year's economy during three busy summer months -- tours are booking and folks are cruising again. The scenery around Juneau is vast and varied. A bird's eye view aboard Radiance of the Seas. The best whale tour we've found in several trips is with Juneau Tours and Whale Watch. Veteran photographer Bruce Keller is a regular on Alaska's waters. This time he chose Royal Caribbean's newly renovated Radiance of the Seas. We sailed into the pretty port aboard Royal Caribbean's graceful Radiance of the Seas, recently refurbished to the tune of multi-millions, and by far the most spiffy ship in the harbor. We like Royal for its well designed Alaska itinerary, which hits the high spots with ample port time: Ketchikan, Skagway, Juneau and the Inside Passage for a spectacular day of viewing. Juneau Tours works with Royal Caribbean, which courts family-owned and operated businesses such as Juneau Tours. The business was started nearly two decades ago by an ambitious couple from Hawaii. Many of its employees have been with the company for years and everyone is pleasant and knowledgeable -- from the bus driver who greets you and gives commentary from the ship to the pier, to the deck hands and naturalist guides. We've met the same entertaining guides a couple years apart -- enthusiastic fellows who know and love the water and wildlife in it. We enjoyed their lively commentary as they pointed out dozens of beautiful, high-flying bald eagles and playful dolphins skipping along the boat. Plan to spend some time driving to the harbor because Juneau is a big place. Because of its vastness, it takes a while to get around. But you're guaranteed two-plus hours of on-the-water whale watching for humpbacks and orcas, sea lions, dolphins, bald eagles, and other wildlife. We met several of the stars of Auke Bay, feasting in their summer feeding grounds – whales Sacha, Flame and several others. Our guides recognized the whales because of the markings on their flukes -- each one unique to the individual whale. The boat is roomy, the windows large and perfect for viewing. Passengers may also go on deck. The company's naturalist guides offer engaging commentary and fascinating whale facts. WE WERE thrilled to see whales breaching. Scientists suspect humpback whales breach and slap their fins and flukes as a way of communicating. Our guides explained that the slapping sounds also send messages to other whales. The company's comfy, customized boats offer panoramic views for optimal whale watching even if you don't want to venture out on deck. BECAUSE YOU are so near one of the world's most famous glaciers, you have an opportunity to stop at Mendenhall Glacier. The tour is arranged with several buses back to your ship or town center, allowing for as little or as much time one wants for glacier viewing. If you haven't seen been face to face with Mendenhall Glacier, it's an easy add-on to the whale watch trip. The glacier is a a 1,500 square mile remnant of the last ice age, cradled high in the mountains and an extra hour's journey but well worth it. “Amazing!” We heard that over-worked adjective many times as we hiked with new friends to Nugget Falls, with its bird's eye views of the glacier. Mendenhall Glacier is a wondrous sight. Even with global warming, it is still miles long. Alaska has more bald eagles than any other state in the union -- up to 25,000. This one performed for our boat. A nicely designed visitor's center gives an overview of glaciers and this close-by one in particular. Mendenhall is perhaps the most accessible glaciers in North America, just 12 miles from downtown Juneau and a few minutes from the airport. It's large -- like everything in Juneau -- a half-mile wide, with ice as deep as 1,800 feet. And it's 13.6 miles long. WE'RE PROUD to recommend Juneau Tours and Whale Watch, which has made a name for itself in southeast Alaska and around the globe. The hands-on approach and joy in their work is obvious, making the outfit a pleasure to travel with, share and enjoy. And consider cruising -- the only way you'll see four distinct parts of this huge 49th state in a week's time. info@juneautours.com ; 1 844-494-2537. royalcaribbean.com ; reservations 866 562-7625 Tuacahn Center for the Arts is a magical place with a range of theater productions in a state-of-the-art amphitheater in Padre Canyon. UP NEXT : Utah's Tuacahn Center for the Arts in Ivins, Utah, is a delightful discovery. We'd never been to this marvelous treasure of a performing arts center near St. George, Utah. So this year was our time for a visit. We were doing stories and taking photos near Zion National Park when we overheard fellow tourists talking about Tuacahn. We went on line and found a gem of a theater set in a beautiful canyon near Ivins, in the mouth of Padre Canyon. A first-rate docket of Broadway shows is on tap, and there are activities year-round at this magical place. www.tuacahn.org/
- Utah's Tuacahn: Spectacular performing arts space in natural setting
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers marvel at the spectacular view from Utah's Tuacahn. THEATER LOVING ROAD TRIPPERS DELIGHT IN DISCOVERY OF A SPLENDID AMPHITHEATER IN UTAH'S RED ROCKS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Tuacahn Center for the Arts "Mary Poppins" sets take a whimsical look at London. This is one of several lovely designs. Also included are a park, bank, children's bedroom and other places in the story. WE HAD no idea such a wondrous place existed in the remote canyonland near St. George, Utah. It's called Tuacahn.Everyone has heard of Zion National Park, and most veteran road-trippers have visited St. George. But we were new to a marvelous discovery during this year's auto journey from San Diego to our place in rural Montana. Some say the name "Tuacahn" comes from a Mayan word meaning "Canyon of the Gods." It couldn't be more fitting. For located in the mouth of the Padre Canyon, adjacent to Snow Canyon State Park, in Ivins, Utah, it's a sight to behold. Keller and Cookie at intermission. An artful display of photos from the current season gives the full house options for future tickets. TUACAHN IS part nature preserve, part performing arts center, and total magic. Several visionary people were instrumental in its founding, including Utah playwright Douglas C. Stewart and philanthropist Hyrum W. Smith. They and others planned the creation of a setting to showcase a play about the founding of the southern part of their state. Hyrum Smith, Tuacahn philanthropist, had a vision to merge nature with performing arts. THE PARTNERS' VISION was to create a space the people of Utah could enjoy. The venue would showcase nature's beauty with the added enticement of first-rate performance. The patrons' love of nature and theater combine artfully in Tuacahn where we recently saw a delightful production of "Mary Poppins." It was Broadway quality -- from technical wizardry which floated Mary across the sky, to beautifully designed sets and costumes, spirited choreography and top talent including a well tuned orchestra. THE PLACE was christened in 1995 when Tuacahn's debut performance. "Utah!" danced its way across the red rocks and into the hearts of the people. Amphitheatre seats are comfortable and seating is designed so there are no obstructed views. But after four years telling the story of the area's ancient inhabitants and pioneer settlers, Tuacahn's board of directors shifted the strategy to a repertory season of popular shows. The successful result is a showcase of several productions in a setting which itself is a natural amphitheater. WRITERS HAVE compared the evolution of this natural wonder to the physical building of Tuacahn Center for the Arts. Centuries of pounding heat and relentless desert rains created the canyon land. Wrote one reviewer, "Just as the land has been shaped, the center was molded by winds of change and the power of dreams." In the play's final scene, Mary Poppins takes to the sky, her mission accomplished (far right.) Donors can remember friends or family in tasteful stones by the lyrical waters. In foreground: Neil Starkenberg as Bert, Gail Bennett as Mary Poppins, sing "A Spoonful of Sugar." Real estate baron and state senator Orval Hafen was a major player, too. The original owner of Padre Canyon enthusiastically endorsed the concept. Adding his own doseof drive and ambition was entrepreneur, arts promoter and producer Doug Stewart who helped propel the mission. It was a daunting dream that many thought impossible, but with this quartet of creative force it blossomed into a flourishing orchestra of reality. Sold out shows, happy families, first-rate talents tell the tale of Tuacahn and confirm that an inspired vision can come true with the right combination of imaginative people, drive and money. Artistic director Scott S. Anderson carries on the mission of creative performance art against a naturally theatrical backdrop. The season is in repertory with "Mary Poppins," "Wonderland," and "Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat" playing into late October. "The Buddy Holly Story" runs in the mix until Aug. 13. "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer" promises family enjoyment Nov. 25-Dec. 22. Tuacahn's venues include the 2,000-seat amphitheatre and a 328-seat indoor theater where the holiday show is staged, a black box theater, dance studio, costume and scene shops and the campus of Tuacahn High School for the Arts. The venue also produces a spring and fall concert series, and Christmas in the Canyon featuring a live-action recreation of the nativity called the "Festival of Lights" with spectacular holiday lights and decorations. ACTOR GAIL Bennett and other Actors Equity performers have garnered national attention, as has the venue itself. Bennett won awards for her leading roles in "My Fair Lady," "Kiss Me Kate," "The Sound of Music" and many productions on Broadway, at Hollywood Bowl and in other major venues. You may think you've gone down the rabbit hole as you explore this gorgeous venue -- truly a "wonderland" of its own. More info or tickets: tuacahn.org ; box office 800 746-9882; 1100 Tuacahn Drive, Ivins, Utah 84738 Christene "Cookie" Meyers rests and savors during a visit to "Immersive Van Gogh." UP NEXT : Van Gogh Immersion.Another artfully done surprise presents itself on our road trip. The artfully done installation, "Immersive Van Gogh," is attracting viewers across the nation in several cities. We check out the original exhibit in Las Vegas. It's a wondrous merging of technology, storytelling, animation and many of Vincent's paintings. We found it captivating and will share in our next feature. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, family, nature and more. www.whereiscookie.com ; VanGoghVegas.com
- Van Gogh immersion yields lavish, hypnotic multi-media experience
Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh's life and art come to life in a mesmerizing show in Las Vegas. The show gracefully weaves state-of-the-art technology, lights, music and imagery. VIEWERS FEEL THE SPIRIT OF FAMED PAINTER WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY, ANIMATION, MUSIC, HYPNOTIZING LANDSCAPES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene Meyers, left, and Bruce Keller, savor their souvenirs from a magical morning at "Immersive Van Gogh." Several cities are hosting the imaginative production. Our travel-writing duo saw the original, in Las Vegas. AN IMAGINATIVE look into the life and times of Vincent Van Gogh is getting raves in Las Vegas as it plays to enthusiastic international crowds. The unique show has garnered kudos in 15 other American cities, but the "Vegas version" is the original. The "Immersive Van Gogh" exhibit begins with your ticket purchase -- easy, on line. A couple options are available beginning at $38 if you shop around on the web for bargains. Our tickets were "VIP" which included a sunflower pillow for sitting on one of the comfy benches, a lovely poster and a chance to correspond with Vincent himself (yes, through cyber wizardry, he answers your note.) WE ENTERED the magical space at The Shops at Crystals, on the third floor, right in the middle of the famed Las Vegas Strip, next to Aria. A huge room has been transformed to an immersive digital art museum. The trendy show is captivating audiences in Las Vegas, just as it has worldwide, from Tokyo to Paris, Atlanta to Bordeaux. Toronto even staged a drive-in exhibit as each city puts its unique and special spin on the tormented genius. We happily joined the ranks enjoying "Immersive Van Gogh," in this breathtaking Las Vegas version. Only a few dozen people are allowed into the huge exhibit space so one may sit, stand or move around without being crowded, enjoying a 360-degree experience. It evolves in pleasant rhythm, accompanied by an enchanting musical score including Handel, Schubert and many other composers. The soothing musical arrangements and several original compositions are cleverly rendered by Luca Longobardi, who did a beautiful job integrating the music with flowing landscapes, portraits and other familiar Van Gogh works. You'll see the famous bed painting and many of the works by the tormented Dutch painter who sold only a single painting in his life before he died at age 37. Everyone knows the sorrow, but this experience honors his brilliance. EVEN SO, THE SHOW has a wistful, sometimes melancholy feel as large-scale moving images are projected onto walls, ceilings, and floors in the space. The suffering in his self-portraits is evident. It's all so mesmerizing we stayed for part of another show -- which the audience is encouraged to do. The artful design is by the award-winning team of "Atelier des Lumieres" in Paris, which viewers may recognize for the digital art show featured in Netflix’s "Emily in Paris." Imagination, technology and the original work of Van Gogh are set to an exciting musical score. We chose to sit on two different benches in two parts of the space to watch for an hour more than 500,000 cubic feet of projections. All the iconic van Gogh works are in the spotlight, including The Potato Eaters (1885), Starry Night (1889), Sunflowers (1888), and The Bedroom (1889). Large-scale digital animations of the prolific painter’s work come to life with Longobardi's passionate musical choices -- including, appropriately, opera befitting the composer's Italian heritage. Said my partner, photographer Bruce Keller, "This is a magnificent artistic effort worthy of a brilliant man who took a path less traveled and failed to achieve the fame he deserved in his lifetime." Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoys the whimsical, moving immersive Van Gogh show in Las Vegas. SEVERAL DOZEN of Van Gogh's post-impressionist sunflowers, perhaps his greatest masterpieces. These are highlights in the show, truly hypnotizing as they play a prominent role in this exquisite and powerful exhibition. The show is running or will play in 29 U.S. cities; several other cities have closed the show after successful shorter runs. Its an imaginative telling of Van Gogh's story, reminding of those 1970s Pink Floyd laser light shows at a planetarium. Truly it is a trip back in time with a futuristic portrayal of the tortured Dutch painter, considered to be among the greatest painters of all time -- right along with Rembrandt van Rijn. Despite selling only that single artwork in his frustrating career, Van Gogh became -- in the century after his death -- perhaps the most recognized painter of all time. The show celebrates his art in joyous fashion, yet the viewer feels a tinge of melancholy in knowing that depression eventually overcame the artist. Photographer Bruce Keller is happy after a morning with Van Gogh. MY FAVORITE segments capsulized his two years in Paris from 1886 to February 1888, when he left for Arles. The excitement and joy are felt in this Paris time, which critics believe laid the foundation for his unique style, exposing him to famed impressionists Monet and Pissarro. Emmy Award-winning and Tony Award-nominated designer David Korins, known for his set designs featured in Broadway hits such as "Hamilton" and "Dear Evan Hansen," introduced elements he considers "experimental" in transforming Lighthouse Las Vegas into such an imaginative venue. It's good entertainment for anyone, but thrilling for those of us with a passion for art and art museums. For more information or to book: www.vangoghvegas.com/ Singing, dancing, cowboys and saloon girls await as the colorful story of Buffalo Bill Cody and friends performs in the town named for the famed showman. The well done, spirited review features top musical talent and fun stories. UP NEXT : A spectacular Wild West revue is performing several nights a week in Cody, Wyoming, and it's a top-quality production. We saw it recently, with an appreciative crowd, and were pleasantly pleased at the dancing, singing, storytelling, costumes and humor. It's part history, part pure fun and terrific entertainment. Rocky Mountain Dance Company does a whiz-bang job. More next week, and meanwhile remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Zion: A memorable merging of rock, water, sky, light and history
Zion National Park is a splendid unfolding of nature's dramatic rock, water, light and more. GORGEOUS NATIONAL PARK IN UTAH IS PROUD TESTIMONY TO POPULARITY OF OUR TREASURED PARK LAND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER As soon as visitors disembark the shuttle, they can shop for drinks or souvenirs and await the buses that tour the park . THE PIONEERS who first drove their wagons into this stunning natural wonder, would probably be amazed at the traffic in Zion National Park today. Long gone are horse and wagon. But hundreds of cars line the nearby roads, at a variety of well-marked shuttle stops. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers hike one of Zion's trails. So popular has Utah's first national park become that one must take a shuttle into the park and then get around in little touring buses. Still, it's a wonder to behold. We recently joined hundreds of fellow park lovers to retrace the same paths native people and pioneers walked. IT WAS WARM -- a hot and dry day -- 100 degrees -- so we made certain we had water bottles and sun hats. Then we set off on tour buses, winding under the park's massive sandstone cliffs of cream, pink, and red. One has the option of exiting the bus at various stops, to soak up the scene under a brilliant blue sky. We were dwarfed by towering cliffs as we hiked through the park's beautiful wilderness in a series of narrow canyons. Christene "Cookie" Meyers hits the trail. Zion stands as proud testimony to popularity of national parks in the U.S. Millions visit from around the world. We heard an international mix of language -- Japanese, Italian, French, German and Norwegian -- during our three-day visit. The only disappointment was the inability to drive through the park and take our time in our own vehicle as we can still do in Yellowstone. But we understand the change from private cars to group transportation. THE ZION shuttle program began a few years ago, following suit with programs begun in other national parks since 2,000. According to a National Park Service spokesman, the parks began operating shuttles because of traffic overload. The attempt to reduce both traffic and the parking problems caused by cars has been successful and millions of tourists now use shuttles in several of our most popular parks. "The shuttle system has restored tranquility to Zion," a park ranger told us. He explained that the shuttle system has helped restore vegetation and maintain the park's natural landscape. So which of our national parks are the most popular? Hikers and nature lovers from around the world drive in a tour bus to various stops for exploring Zion. In 2018, Zion ranked fourth among America's most visited national parks, ahead of Yellowstone, which came in fifth and Yosemite which placed sixth. Grand Canyon National Park tops the list, with Rocky Mountain National Park and Acadia National Park right behind. Each had over 4 million visitors. In Montana and Wyoming, Yellowstone's neighboring Grand Teton National Park had 3.88 million visitors. Outside the park, shuttle stops are well marked. One pays for parking though, and can use a credit card. The Narrows in Zion National Park is worth the hike. Our national parks are a treasure. IF YOU HAVE limited time -- and can choose only one hike -- we recommend going into The Narrows, t he park's narrowest and most dramatic section, deep in Zion Canyon. The gorge walls are a thousand feet tall and the river sloshes over on the trail, so your feet may get wet. We carried an extra pair of shoes, based on a ranger's recommendation and were grateful to have the change. It's a challenging hike on a hot day, about 1.5 miles from the bus drop-off. But there are shady places to shelter on the way. Other popular hikes are Angel's Landing and Canyon Overlook Trail. Another beautiful area of Zion National Park is Zion Canyon, easily accessed along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, a curving road running along the canyon floor, with towering cliff walls on both sides. DO YOUR homework to prepare for Zion. There are many trails and various fees depending on if you are walking, on motorcycle, etc. We recommend reserving and paying on line to make the most of your time once you're there. Here's a website to get you started: www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/fees Christena Robbie Cosgriffe, named after two of her aunties, is a happy well adjusted child with her special needs looked after. Here she poses with Aunties Olivia and Christene, and uncles Rick and Bruce, at a family gathering. NEXT UP : "Raising Christena." Our 12-year old niece and my namesake, Christena, was born with Down Syndrome. The challenges of raising a child with a birth defect -- "special needs" -- is one shared by the child's entire family and support system. Christena's "Village," as Hillary Clinton called it, is a sturdy one with family, friends, doctors, nurses, speech therapists, musicians, teachers and more. Read how we're dealing with the challenge and remember to explore, learn and live: www.whereiscookie.com














