Behind bars: Keller tours prison. Story By CHRISTENE MEYERS Photos By BRUCE KELLER There’s something undeniably captivating about stepping onto Alcatraz Island, a place where history feels alive in every weathered wall and echoing corridor. The adventure begins with a ferry ride across San Francisco Bay, offering sweeping views of the city skyline, the Golden Gate Bridge, and the salty breeze that sets the tone for what’s ahead. Once on the island, the self-guided audio tour takes you deep inside the infamous prison that once held some of America’s most notorious criminals, blending powerful storytelling with real voices from former guards and inmates. It’s eerie, fascinating, and surprisingly beautiful all at once—making it a must-see experience for anyone visiting San Francisco. Who knew that Burt Lancaster's "Bird Man" character never tended his feathered friends on Alcatraz? That's the stuff of movies. The famous, Oscar winning performance by the great actor told the story of Robert Stroud who actually tended his birds at Leavenworth, not on a remote island off the picturesque city of San Francisco. An eccentric, not particularly pleasant man (according to our guides), Stroud had murdered a man before he was transferred to Alcatraz in 1942. Apparently his hobby was getting out of control. He was never allowed to pursue his passion in California. Ah, that's the stuff of movies, though. The island of Alcatraz lives on as thousands learn history of its tenure as a prison and now a bird sanctuary, home to gorgeous iris and many other blooms with stunning views of San Francisco. Inmates could view the city, a symbol of the pleasures they could not have as prisoners. Because "The Bird Man of Alcatraz" had a catchy sound, that became the movie's title, despite the fact that Stroud was never allowed to tend birds on the island. That film, though, continues to draw folks to the beauty, solitude and history of this little island a mile from San Francisco. The prison's water tower still sports writing from the Indian take-over of 1969 which lasted 19 months. We recently played tourist to take it all in. Besides the "Bird Man" trivia, here are a few "did you know" tidbits we discovered on our pleasant day there: *The island's history goes back to native people, but record keeping shows it was purchased by California from Mexico in 1847. Its prison status dates to the Civil War when 11 soldiers arrived. Soldiers convicted of desertion, theft, assault, rape and murder were also sent to Alcatraz, along with the crew of a Confederate ship. Sadly, Alcatraz was also a place of incarceration for Hopi, Apache and Modoc Indians captured during the Indian wars, and military convicts were sent there during the Spanish-American War. The warden's family lived in this large home which is kept for touring. *The Alcatraz of more recent times came about after the 1930s Great Depression when the government was looking for a high-profile, maximum-security facility. Al Capone did time there, from 1934 to 1938. He was transferred to a medical prison facility after a few fist fights with other inmates. Eight prisoners were murdered by other inmates and five committed suicide. *Alcatraz inmates numbered a total of 1,545. Besides Capone and "Birdman," a few other notorious fellas did time there: Doc Barker, Machine Gun Kelly and Creepy Karpis for three. The island was a federal penitentiary for 29 years during which time 36 prisoners tried to escape. All but five were Inmates and families worked together to landscape Alcatraz. Now thousands of tourists enjoy. recaptured. Three were unaccounted for and may have survived. Their June 1962 escape was immortalized in the movie, "Escape from Alcatraz" with Clint Eastwood. *An average of 260 bad guys were housed in the four cell blocks, with a high of 320 prisoners. Unruly inmates were sent to D block, whose 42 cells were known as the Isolation Unit. We toured the entire complex and heard many stories! *Some of the correctional officers and their families stayed on the island. The warden and his wife and family lived in a large house near the prison building and never locked their doors! Some of the families grew lovely gardens which are still kept up today. A few of the prisoners had green thumbs, too, and were allowed to contribute to the beautification. There were no women prisoners or guards. *Besides the famous films, Alcatraz came to the public eye through the 1969-70 occupation by activists. A small group landed on the island the claimed it in the name of "Indians of All Tribes." The occupation followed, lasted 19 months. Interestingly, the National Park Service has kept some of the signs and banners up, dutifully noting the occupation and its symbolism. Birds are protected on Alcatraz and have no natural predators. Here a pair of gulls appear to be mating. *The gardens and birds of Alcatraz fascinated us as much as the guard towers and escape lore. We saw hundreds of birds, including mating gull and heron, cormorants, hawks and hummingbirds. Tide pools are home to crabs, sea stars and other marine animals. *Alcatraz can be enjoyed at your leisure with many ferry departures and returns nearly each day. It's part of the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy. You'll take a short, pretty ferry ride from Pier 33 Alcatraz Landing. The ticket includes a well done audio tour, lectures and plenty of friendly guides to answer questions. www.alcatrazcruises.com 415 981-7625. COMING SATURDAY: A contest! Sign up for our blog at www.whereiscookie.com and make a comment, including your suggestion for a future travel column. We'll give a first-edition autographed book of poems by the late poet Bruce Kemp Meyers to the winning suggestion. And we continue our exploration of the great city of San Diego with a look at the hip pleasures of Hotel Diva, Union Square, a little known hike to Coit Tower and a Hornblower cruise. The hotel's hip art, location in downtown San Francisco, amenities, friendly staff and dog-welcoming service make it an appealing hotel for Keller, Cookie and yorkies Nick and Nora. So our exploration of one of the world's great cities continues, complete with the painted heart left in San Francisco by singer Tony Bennett. Remember to explore, learn and live, at whereiscookie.com

California's historic ferry Madaket is the last of seven ferries on Humboldt Bay, a relic of the waterfront heyday of Eureka, Calif. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers aboard the Madaket, for a cruise around historic Humboldt Bay. HUMBOLDT BAY'S HEYDAY COMES ALIVE WITH COLORFUL COMMENTARY, INTERESTING SIGHTS ABOARD HISTORIC VESSEL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" IN DAYS OF YORE, ferries were critical to transporting the people of Humboldt Bay. They serviced both the boats and businesses along the waterfront as the town's fishing and lumbering industries exploded in a building boom. Libby Tonning goes by the moniker "Captain Zippo" and acts as both able skipper and informed tour guide. Eureka's bustling waterfront, Humboldt Bay and Madaket THE LONG, sheltered bay with its narrow entrance was obscured by sand bars extending out farther than normal. Thus explorer Juan Cabrillo and other adventurers overlooked it in their explorations of the California coast. Today, the last of seven ferries still transits the waters. The lovingly preserved California historic ferry Madaket is piloted by a self-described "surfer nerd'' who likes to be called Zippo, a nickname bestowed by her boss, a commercial tugboat captain. WE SET off with Captain Zippo and other passengers, including a family and a couple locals who make the nostalgic journey each year. On a glorious autumn day, we pulled away from the Humboldt dock, chugging north into one of the most pristine bays on the west coast, perhaps in all the United States. Because few ferries remain to remind us of the glory days, it was a special treat. The Madaket was built in 1910 and is one of the last reminders of Eureka, California's bustling waterfront days. The name "Madaket" means "gift of God" and for the people who enjoy the eight-mile cruise, the trip is a gift. Fishing vessels and buildings are described on a journey with Capt. Zippo, from May into September. CAPTAIN ZIPPO is the alter ego of Libby Tonning, a natural born naturalist, storyteller and skipper. She gives a lively commentary on the area, from early explorer days to the county's present industries, which include cannabis. Her love of Humboldt Bay is obvious from the moment we spot our first bird, a graceful egret. "He's likely from the rookery on Indian Island," says Zippo. She guides us past sawmills, boat life, fish-packing plants, private yachts, bird sanctuaries and more, giving a lively synopsis of decades of history, development and change. A piece of artwork near the Madaket ticket booth in Old Town waterfront, Eureka. SHE POINTS out Samoa Beach, where the USS Milwaukee ran aground in 1916, pulling closer to remnants of trestles built to salvage the 400-foot Navy cruiser. The Carson Mansion is considered the country's finest example of Queen Anne architecture. The Madaket is the oldest continuously operating passenger vessel in the U.S. She also boasts the state's smallest licensed bar, where we enjoyed sodas while the locals sipped chardonnay. THE 90-MINUTE trip is both history lesson and pleasant afternoon. We learn of fish processing plants and see which boats bring in clams or oysters. We view where douglas fir is cut and readied for China. We learn of the native people, the indigenous Wiyot. A cottage and fishing boats along the harbor's north end. We admire the stately Carson Mansion, built in 1884 by lumber magnet William Carson. It's a towering Victorian house in Old Town, not far from the harbor. The house is regarded as one of the country's best examples of American Queen Anne Style architecture. OUR SKIPPER, a 31-year old New Mexico native, fell in love with Humboldt Bay when she visited as a teen on a family vacation. She returned to attend Humboldt State University, majoring in marine fisheries. But she was drawn more to surfing and boats, so she cultivated sea time, studying for her captain’s license. She earned it in 2017 and signed on at Madaket where she continues as both skipper and tour guide. She also surfs, scuba-dives, and works as a hand aboard Zerlang tugboats."I can't imagine doing anything else," she says as we pull along the dock for her next passengers. Madaket also offers cocktail cruises during the season. humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com 707 445-1910 Thanksgiving in southern France for us included a wine tasting with several small courses and plenty of delicious cheese. The accommodating Provencals also provided tasty non-alcoholic beer, warm baguettes and berries. UP NEXT: Come along with us as we travel outside the United States to celebrate Thanksgiving on foreign soil. Although it's not a holiday in most places we go, we nod to this traditional American holiday with paella, pudding and prosciutto, blue cheese and baguettes, remembering to be thankful for a multitude of things. Those include our ability to travel, immerse ourselves in other cultures, their art, music and theater. And always, we enjoy their food. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at travel, nature, art, food, family and more: whereiscookie.com

Queen Califia's Magical Circle offers a colorful escape. Story by Christene Meyers Photos by Bruce Keller Days ago, we went down the rabbit hole. No, not with Alice, but with Niki. It was marvelous! Part of me is still there. We happened upon Queen Califia's Magical Circle on a driving trip. The magnificent creation of the late French artist Niki de Saint Phalle is quietly dazzling. Picnic and puppies in tow, we were looking for a place to lunch within an hour of San Diego. We found it in Escondido's beautiful Kit Carson Park, named after the famed frontiersman. We strolled the grounds with the Yorkies, passing two guys playing frisbee golf. They paused to pet the pups, chat and reveal that they lived nearby. "Are you going up the trail?" one asked. "It will blow your mind. Some eccentric French lady did this crazy sculpture thing. It's a trip. Just follow the trail." The African queen Califia, at top and back, inspired Niki de Saint Phalle's sculpture garden in Escondido. "Crazy sculpture thing" hardly describes Saint Phalle's magic. Queen Califia's Magical Circle is through the looking glass and beyond. Named after a legendary black Amazon warrior queen, it is a treasure not to be missed. Saint Phalle obviously was a smart, dramatic and inspiring artist. Her California garden tells a story -- of California's mythic, historic and cultural roots. Nine large-scale sculptures surrounded by a serpentine wall and maze entryway entice the stroller inside. Appropriately, the amazing creation stands on grounds originally inhabited by Indians of the acorn culture. Surely the artist knew this! Once you're in, you'll want to spend a couple hours studying this brilliant and colorful gift. It incorporates women, jungle creatures and other elements, with thousands of precisely placed tiles, stones, pieces of glass and breathtaking mosaics. Cookie delights in the garden, patting polished stones of an intricate mosaic. It's impossible not to want to touch! The garden is both sensuous and tactile. It is obvious that the artist inhabited many worlds. Like many creative people -- artists, musicians and writers -- she was part mystic, part realist, part mature woman and a bit of a tease. She also had the capacity to live in a child's orbit, an enviable talent. Despite the sophisticated nature of the work, there is a childlike wonder to the place which makes me wish I'd known her. Ron McPherson's company, La Paloma, fabricated many of the lush, large and evocative sculptures which were attracting old and young alike the day we visited. They invite touching! Keller, Nick and Nora relax below the entrance to the sculpture garden. A little homework provided me with these facts: She was born in France in 1930, became a painter and sculptor in her youth, married twice and never lost her passion for art. By her twenties, she was gaining fame with her "Nanas," spectacular solo exhibitions celebrating happy, content and free women. Internationally known and a member of the influential Paris group, "Nouveaux Realistes," she designed major exhibits in Tuscany, Germany and France, including a world-famous fountain in the Georges Pompidou Center in her beloved Paris. Lucky California was the beneficiary of her genius when her doctor advised moving to a mild climate in 1994. The artist was ailing from the emphysema which took her life in 2002, but during her eight years in La Jolla, she designed the spectacular gift to southern California and the world. The gift lives in Escondido, a North county town that most San Diegans don't know well. Niki's sense of the magical and mythical delight, flanked by native trees and shrubs which the city planted. I had no idea that this wonderful sculpture garden is tucked away in the nearly 300-acre park. It's a wistful fact that Saint Phalle did not live to see its completion (she died before its opening in 2003) but it's comforting that she was involved in its installation from 1999 until her death. Her San Francisco based granddaughter sits as a trustee of this marvelous gift. "The artist donated it to the city," says Kristina Owens, Escondido's public arts administrator. "She always wanted to have a sculpture garden in the U.S., and she loved southern California." It's ironic that these vibrant sculptures reside in a town whose name means "hidden" because the garden is not splashily advertised. Do people realize how extraordinary it is? How lucky we are? When one considers the fame and influence of the "new realists" and that Saint Phalle was one of this prestigious group, we should consider ourselves lucky to be within driving distance of her gift. I was reminded of Gaudi's creations in Barcelona, or some of the imaginative projects of her contemporaries -- Christo, Yves Klein, and Jean Tinguely, her second husband. Ruth, left, and her daughter join Cookie -- new friends, drawn to the Magical Circle by a talented French-born artist. Her sculptures make me smile -- and will you, too! The Escondido garden also makes me want to visit her European installations. I will. Meanwhile, we can enjoy her buxom, colorful figures, her playful animals, joyous flowers and flirtatious snakes in the lovely environs of Kit Carson Park. The area is graced by native trees and shrubs. Niki herself designed sculptural bench seating where one may enjoy the art and truly let it "sink in." Sadly, vandals have chipped away at some of the beauty and time has taken a toll. Some repairs are in order. And the vandalism has necessitated fencing. Niki wanted her creations to be viewed as "happy and free" and the garden inspires these feelings. While paying homage to imagination, California and the natural world, the garden also encourages discussion and family visits. Escondido school children make regular pilgrimages, arranged by art teachers. We shared the space with a romancing couple playing classical guitar, and a grandma and her children. "This place is simply amazing. Amazing," she repeated. "Wonderful!" An endowment has been established to help maintain the gift. Call 760 839-4331. To donate, plan your trip, or learn more about Niki, go to: Kit Karson Park also includes a wonderful aboretum and Iris Sankey Garden, an amphitheater, baseball field, picnic areas, tennis courts, ponds, hiking trails, a golf course and more. Truly a treasure for us all, a thoughtful mix of developed and natural land. Find the magic at 3333 Bear Valley Parkway, heading east then north off the I15. Good mojo awaits! Coming Soon: Birds, birds, birds. Whether on road trips to Montana's Beartooth's, a picnic on the beach or hikes and sails around the globe, the feathered friends keep Cookie and Keller An egret poses behind ducks at Kit Carson Park in Escondido. company. An homage to these feathered, winged tetrapods that surprise, delight and calm us. Please tell your friends about us. Our blog is now being enjoyed on five continents! And keep the comments coming: whereiscookie.com Remember to explore, learn and live!

All aboard! North Yorkshire Moors Railway pulls out of the station with a full complement of passengers. York's National Railway Museum has won national awards for its expansive telling of rail history. MERRY OLDE ENGLAND NURTURES A DEEP AFFECTION FOR RAIL TRAVEL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" TRAINS ARE as much a part of English life today as ships were centuries ago. The National Railway Museum in York is the largest and most expansive in the country, known for its variety, welcoming layout and detailed exhibits. North Yorkshire Moors Railway highlights We recently explored several rail venues in Northeast England and plan to expand our rail travel to other parts of the United Kingdom. Since the country's first steam locomotives chugged out of Stockton and Darlington in 1825, that pastoral corner of England has held rail travel close to its heart. People in all parts of the UK enjoy relaxing, soaking up views. Nowhere is the rail experience more rewarding than in the North York Moors. With lovely scenery, a beverage and sometimes a pleasant lunch or tea, train travel combines three things the British love: countryside, history and a bite, a cuppa or a pint. The and a chance to relax and visit with a drink or snack. QUEENS, SOLDIERS and school children enjoyed rail travel dating back to the golden age of steam. We began our "train fix" with a history lesson at York's fine National Railway Museum, part of the extensive Science Museum Group. Admission is by donation and upon entering the expansive halls, wonders unfold: iconic locomotives, Queen Victoria's plush car, a detailed rail ambulance which saved lives during wartime, a magical mail car with a fascinating film of workers tossing and collecting bags of post from moving trains. The Royal Scotsman, Orient Express -- trains, from antique to sleek-contemporary. BRITISH RAIL travel, much like train travel in the U.S., developed during the railway boom of the 1840s, with dozens of competing companies. Through the 19th and early 20th centuries, these consolidated or were bought up by competitors until only a few companies remained Miss Eastwood serves beverages aboard an old-fashioned steam train. . One enterprise that flourishes is the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. We joined 100-plus fellow train lovers for a pleasant journey from Whitby to Pickering. Our hosts, John and Sue, arranged the trip -- she dropped us off via auto and John joined us in our red velvet car. We traveled through lush woodlands and picturesque villages, much as they were 100 years ago. We visited, relaxed and sipped beverages served by a smiling stewardess then Sue kindly met us to motor us home. We've trained around the UK through England, Scotland and Wales in past visits, and recommend it for its "no hassle" ease, speed and convenience. As passengers departed their trains in York, we headed for ours, in a lovely car taking us to London for six days. SINCE THEY "do the driving," rail travel is a stress-free, comfortable way to travel, even on short notice. A spontaneous trip can easily be arranged. Visiting BritRail's website is a good place to start. You'll find passes for extended travel, sleeping cars and even package tours. The expansive BritRail train system offers a variety of excellent passes to suit every desire for travel in the UK. This trip, we experienced only a small part of BritRail's destination bonanza. Our York-London trip was a comfy two-hour journey to central London, then just a 10-minute taxi to our hotel. Cookie and Keller at York's famous Rail Museum which features all manner of train-related transportation, antique to contemporary. The museum asks only a donation. THOUSANDS MAKE use of BritRail passes for the flexibility in using the UK's expansive national rail network to historic places. All major cities are served, including London, Edinburgh, Manchester, Brighton, Glasgow, Liverpool, Birmingham and many more. Here are a few of the impressive variety of passes BritRail offers: BritRail England Pass - travel the whole of England. BritRail London Plus Pass - travel Southeast England to Stratford Upon Avon, Bristol, Bath and Cambridge. BritRail Spirit of Scotland Pass- travel all over Scotland including ferry routes to the islands. BritRail Central Scotland Pass - travel between Glasgow and Edinburgh via historical towns such as Stirling, Linlithgow and Dunblane. BritRail Scottish Highlands Pass - travel around the Scottish Highlands by rail with some ferry routes. BritRail Southwest Pass - travel from London (including busy Heathrow Airport) to Southwest England, to visit the beaches of Cornwall or have a cream tea in Devon. TO GET YOU in a train state of mind, the York museum is planning fun holiday displays, including one featuring the original Stephenson's Rocket, which changed rail travel in 1829. Another exhibit features "The Age of Innovation" when vicars, lace-makers and miners brought their own miniature locomotives to life. We recommend rail travel over renting a car in Britain, particularly for our fellow Yanks. To avoid driving "the wrong side of the road," why not ride the rails instead? nymr.co.uk; railwaymuseum.org.uk; britrail.com Bruce Keller, aka "Keller" and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on board the Madaket, on lovely Humboldt Bay. UP NEXT: Did you know that there exists in northern California, the country's oldest still operational ferry boat. The Madaket proudly patrols the waters of Humboldt Bay, with a skipper who knows her business and shares information about the wildlife, economy, waterways, history and purpose of the charming ferry, which among other attributes boasts the smallest licensed bar in the state. More next week. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn, laugh and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the links and tell your friends. We have a global readership of which we are very proud.

PURPLE MARTIN'S MAJESTY GROWS FINE ORGANIC FARE James Walker Hayes washes freshly picked produce at the organic farm he and his partner, Kelle Martin, run. The historic Point Arena Lighthouse, above, is a few miles back toward town from the farm, then up the road a bit. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE APPROACH to a gardener's Eden is a good half hour outside of Point Arena, Calif., down a winding country road dense with fir, cedar, pine and redwoods. You know you're going some place special because it's serene, peaceful, picture-postcard perfect. The air smells terrific. Purple Martin Farm puts a person in a happy state of mind. James Hayes and Kelle Martin welcome us for a three-day stay. Dinner is served -- with a freshly picked salad. WE ARE surrounded by beauty, both inside their house and throughout the property, with its various greenhouses, sheds and wine making shop, all spread across artfully landscaped grounds. Blooming vegetables are ready for harvest. Apricots the size of lemons are picked for snacking. Pears aren't quite mature but show promise. Various apples in various stages.... James is proud of the enterprise's secondary offshoot, wine making. Figs will be enjoyed soon. Flowers bloom everywhere and the couple has used native rock to frame footpaths and set off shrubs and ground cover. HARD TO imagine anyone working in this idyllic setting, but there's elbow grease aplenty and chores underway. Who needs marijuana with this natural high? Song birds tweet a tuneful hello and Millie, the dog, welcomes our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, after voicing momentary distress. Soon, the three canines are romping together, exploring the lush acreage above the Pacific Ocean in this unspoiled corner of Mendocino County. Hayes and Martin have been farmers for more than a dozen years, since Martin earlier scouted out the property to fulfill her desire to live off the land and grow her own food. Fruit trees were just about perfect for picking in early June. Hayes, a gifted musician, had been playing in various popular bands. His creativity extends to the outdoors and he shares Martin's love of the land. Together they decided to pursue an organic farming endeavor, which has grown into a successful venture. FOR SEVERAL years, the two have grown much of what they consume, eating what is available in each season and selling surplus to markets and restaurants. One of their major clients is Uneda Eat, a small, upscale restaurant in downtown Point Arena specializing in "local, organic and lusty" meals. We sampled gorgeous rabbit and tenderloin with amazing appetizers and salads, made with Purple Martin produce. A picturesque pond on the property is surrounded by trees and shrubs. Usually, there's something left of the bounty for guests, friends, neighbor and family. Hayes' father, Jim Hayes, lives in nearby Point Arena, and is an occasional dinner guest at the farm, stopping at the store for the odd jug of lemonade or pound of coffee beans the couple need to fill out a meal menu. THEY TRADE their bounty for the few things their industrious efforts don't provide -- meat and poultry, goat cheese and sometimes jams, chutney or other specialty items. One of Kelle's magnificent bouquets graces the couple's kitchen table, with newly harvested squash, lemons and apricots. When we visited last week, James (happily, he's my nephew) made a call to a friend who provided gorgeous lamb chops in exchange for wine. (Thanks again, James and Kelle, for the wonderful meal.) Hayes makes his own gluten-free bread, using interesting yeasts and cultures, including sauerkraut juice! We sampled his delicious, tangy sour dough bread with homemade strawberry preserves. Lamb chops, fresh off the grill, are a treat -- traded for wine and veggies. Purple flowers attract bees and human admirers at Purple Martin Farm near Point Arena, California. THE COUPLE'S work ethic is of the Old School. Hayes' dad is a New Yorker who gave up a thriving but intense law practice to become a successful potter in the more laid back environment of northern California in the late 1960s. James' late mother, Peny, was a gifted musician, artist and dance teacher, who also loved to Kelle traveled the world -- France to Australia -- before settling down. bake, garden, draw and sing. She moved from Montana to a northern California commune in the early 1970s, where she met the senior Hayes. Before her untimely death from leukemia in 1986, the couple had two children: James and his older sister, Amarylla Penelope Hayes Ganner, who lives in the Bay Area with her husband, Steve, and kids, James and Peny, recently featured here. YOUNG HAYES lived a nature-driven life as a child and remembers growing up with a cow, fresh berry pie and a huge garden on the family's Manchester farm property. James on bass, Cookie on piano, a young rising vocalist and Millie the doggie, enjoy an evening music session. HE IS a voracious reader and turned me onto "slow food" articles and books about nutrition and organic farming. Kelle's parents, too, were grounded in the land and her five siblings visit the farm and sometimes aid in its upkeep, clearing brush and harvest. The advantages to organic gardening are, of course, control over what you grow. You plant the seeds, nurture the young plants, make sure the soil is rich and clean, provide James, right, and Kelle, left, with his father, Jim Hayes, and his auntie Cookie, aka Christene Meyers. adequate water and pinch off excess. Eventually you have eggplant, zucchini, broccoli, tomatoes and, if you're James and Kelle, a half-dozen kinds of lettuce and salad greens. THE DOWN side of organic gardening is the necessity of adequate insect and pest management. "It's a continuing challenge," Hayes said. Because insects are mobile and can outsmart farmers, they need to be "outwitted" rather than eliminated. During our brief visit, we observed the destruction by a lettuce eating pest who virtually wiped out an entire row of produce overnight. So Hayes and Martin are studying how various insects go about sustaining themselves and collecting the necessities of life, hoping to use their knowledge to manipulate the critters into actually protecting crops. Hayes' musical talent carries on the tradition of his mother's family, the Cosgriffes. His dad sings and appreciates. MEANWHILE, the hours are long and the two get weary. But they're not party poopers. Besides the gardening, harvesting and wine making, they are both accomplished cooks, and served up several feasts during our too brief visit. They also staged a couple concerts -- with a young neighbor singing, myself on piano and Hayes on bass. He still plies his musical trade in a couple local bands, having played in venues in San Francisco and up and down the coast since his teen-age days. Rows of beautiful onions, broccoli, greens and herbs await picking and cleaning. Now in their late thirties and early forties, Hayes and Martin stay fit in their outdoor endeavors, hikes and keeping the acreage groomed and productive. She is also known in the county for her spectacular floral arrangements, which she markets for special events, dinners, weddings, memorials and other celebrations. For more about their enterprise, contact Purple Martin Farm at 707 882-3709 (you'll get a voice recording, probably, because James and Kelle will be at work outdoors.) Uneda Eat's phone is 707 882-3800 on Main Street, Point Arena. Reservations are recommended. Bon appetite! Moss Landing pelicans preen for kayaking nature lovers. COMING UP: Our California idyll continues with a serene morning on an estuary near Moss Landing, with pelicans overhead. Launch yourself into a nature preserve, surrounded by sea otters. And learn with Cookie how to stay dry in a kayak! We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventures, off the beaten track. Tell your friends about us: www.whereiscookie.com

Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park can be worked into a driving trip bonus. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" The Wapiti Valley on the approach to Yellowstone National Park's east entrance, outside of Cody, Wyo., offers strange and beautiful rock formations. CHIEF AMONG the pleasures of our Road trip - Montana to California are the surprises. On this week in America, we appreciate our country's roadside attractions. We relish stopping to admire the landscape, perhaps exploring a bluff or bridge we haven't noticed before. We smell the roses, as Keller says, "as we stroll through the garden of life." Often we pull over to give ourselves and the dog a break. This leads to taking a few photos, studying a roadside plaque or grabbing a milkshake at a newly discovered diner. An international array of visitors stopped the day we did at the Piedras Blancas Elephant seal Rookery on the central California coast. Road trip - Montana to California included a side trip Through Jackson Hole, Wyoming, a stop at Evel Knievel's Snake River jump site in Twin Falls, Idaho And a two-day layover to savor an ocean view and photograph the elephant seal Piedras Blancas rookery on the central California coast. We treasure that "unplugged" feeling a road trip offers. For us, the trip is the journey and the destinations are part of the trip, enhanced by the experience of being together, visiting, listening to books on tape and studying the region with tour books and Triple A literature. THIS LATEST driving trip also included an overnight in Cody, Wyo., for a mock gunfight outside the historic Irma Hotel and an hour-long tour on Cody's entertaining trolley. Buffalo Bill Center of the West has several world class museums and is a great reason to overnight in Cody, Wyo. We advise mapping your driving trip around interesting towns or stops where you'll have something to do - whether it be a few hours in a museum, such as Cody's fabulous Buffalo Bill Center of the West, or an hour in a small historic museum such as the ones in Nevada towns. With a bit of homework, you'll have an entertaining diversion or two during your nights on the road. WHEN WE hit the road, we have hotels booked for each night, and we follow a strict rule that we go no further than 300 miles a day. Three or four hours driving time is our max, building in an hour or two for stops -- gas, meals, dog walk, miscellaneous discoveries. We find that after a few hours of driving, our attention spans diminish. Overnight breaks help keep us fresh and interested on our way! UP NEXT: While we're road tripping, we're making a couple of stops for more in-depth stories. Evel Knievel is famous for his daring motorcycle escapades, including one that didn't quite work, over the Snake River, at left. We'll explore the legendary daredevil's jumps, including one that failed. Daredevil Evel Knievel's abortive attempt to jump the Snake River is incorporated into a fine Twin Falls, Idaho, museum, well worth a stop on a road trip. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more: whereiscookie.com -- and share the links, please.

Sunset in California, along the Pacific, isa leisurely affair, often with fast-moving clouds. What is home? Two places capture the hearts of our traveling team Where we love is home - home that our feet may leave, but not our hearts. -- Oliver Wendell Holmes For the two of us, home isn't a place. It is a person. -- Stephanie Perkins STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Living between two places might seem like a life divided, but for us, it has become a life deeply connected. The conduit is nature. Though Montana and California offer vastly different landscapes -- one defined by rugged mountains and quiet forests, the other by rolling waves and sunlit shores -- we feel at home in both. The thread that ties them together isn’t buildings or routines. It is nature itself. Whether we’re standing beneath towering pines or walking along the coastline, there’s a familiar rhythm in the wind, light, and open space that reminds us we belong. A contented seal enjoys Southern California beach life. IF HOME IS where the heart is, then our home and heart are mobile. Home is, for us, deeply connected to trees, water and sunsets. Gorgeous sunsets on the California coast and over the rocky cliffs of the Beartooth Mountains. We need to be surrounded by favorite people, the natural world and "our stuff" -- paintings, books, pianos, gardens, bird feeders, theater Playbills. A couple favorite cooking pots. A tea strainer. A pair of porcelain coffee mugs made by my potter brothers. A photo of my mother playing violin and Keller's mother painting -- we have those in both homes. The feeders are attracting a mix of bright birds. Finding home in nature Finding "home in nature" is knowing my way around a kitchen and locating the ginger, dill and green tea. Or hanging the finch and hummingbird feeders and having my first customers buzz my head and dip for a snack before I get back inside the house. HOME IS the sweet song of birds, the sheen on the Rimrocks north of Billings, the looming San Diego skyline, the storybook Oceanside harbor up the coast. Home means egrets in the sand, eagles in the pines. And trees. Here in California, the palms, Torrey Pines and eucalyptus form a comfort zone. IN MONTANA it's the aspen, cottonwoods and pines. Both places have distinct smells -- musky earth from recent rain and my garden marigolds in Montana, salty sea air and the patio orchids in California. The trees and Mediterranean brush of southern California. But always trees. Without these, I'd be rootless! Herman Hesse loved the rustle of trees, "when we stand uneasy before our own childish thoughts." He felt that trees have "long thoughts," and that because they generally live longer than we do, "they are wiser than we are." Home also has to do with a feeling of safety. For me, the beauty of the natural world has long calmed me, producing a sense of The picturesque Oceanside Harbor welcomes the writer home, from another home in beloved Montana. security and absence of anxiety. Ultimately, the feeling of being "home" and "at home" is an amalgam of emotions, comforts and connections dating back to our infancy. Being greeted by a loved one -- partner, sibling, parent -- also signals "home." FAMILIAR SIGHTS -- for me, the mountains and ocean -- welcome me, make me feel grounded, safe and comforted. The sea and hills welcome me and confirm that I'm home. I'm lucky to have two places that make me feel happy and connected to nature. Cookie and Keller enjoy a sail up the California coast her first day back. Home is the wide open spaces of Montana, surrounded by aspen and fir, meadowlarks and robins, in the shadow of the Beartooths. Home is also a favorite beach, for a barefoot stroll beneath palms. On the Oceanside shore of Southern California, dolphins and whales vie for attention. Osprey nest on top of light fixtures and telephone poles in both our states. RATHER THAN looking for deer, antelope and bears, I'm sailing past sunning seals and into the Pacific. Both places offer abundant delights from the natural world -- daily doses of extraordinary beauty. The first few days of "being home" are always rewarding, whether I'm coming or going, whether my destination is California or Montana. A stop at Queen Califia's Magical Garden spells "home" in California. MY AUGUST BIRTHDAY revels are fully underway, with parties and presents in Montana, then more awaiting my arrival in San Diego. I'm taking only a few days for this California visit, to connect with friends, partake of a favorite Jazzercise class, go sailing and take in a few plays and concerts. This week's line-up includes a Lyle Lovett concert tonight at Humphreys By the Bay, a beloved venue right on the ocean, which we'll feature in next week's post. There's a play Friday, "In the Heights," downtown at the Lyceum, in Horton Plaza. An opportunity to view one of the prettiest skylines in the country. San Diego's palm trees and skyline also say "home". And there is time for a sunset at our favorite cocktail and appetizer spot, La Jolla Shores. A QUICK TRIP to Harrah's Rincon Resort and Casino restores my gambler's soul and, for a change, I leave a few dollars ahead. Time, too, for a picnic at Queen Califia's Magical Garden, that enticing artful sculpture circle in Escondido's Kit Carson Park. HOW LUCKY we are to have two nature driven places in which we feel comfortable. When we're back in Montana in a few days, home is cattle and deer, the Stillwater River, rafters instead of the surfers, birds and sailboats of southern California. Both places shelter us with trees -- palms and eucalyptus in SoCal, fir, pine and aspen in the northern Rockies. THE GYPSY in me loves travel -- mulling over brochures to choose a new destination or return to a favorite place. But home will always be two distinct and different places -- the wilds of Montana and the beaches and hills of southern California. Here, in these two places tied together forever in our hearts, we come and go -- leaving home and coming home, content whichever direction we're going! COMING SOON: A sold-out concert by gifted singer songwriter Lyle Lovett is one of the enticements at Humphreys Concerts By the Bay, for Birthday Girl Cookie. Humphreys is a popular seaside performance venue which lured the writer "home" to San Diego from her rural Montana writing studio. Plus we'll look at Montana theater, Egypt's changes and Brazil. Lyle Lovett is one of Cookie's favorite singers. Remember to explore, learn and live. Check us out weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com

Hundreds of elephant seals -- once nearly extinct -- swim in a few weeks each year to breed on central California's coast. It's a phenomenon worthy of a stop for wildlife lovers worldwide. WONDROUS SIGHT: Elephant seals on California coast LAZE, SHOW THEIR STUFF TO DELIGHT OF TOURISTS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Along the windswept coastline near San Simeon, a truly wild experience awaits at the famed Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery. Here, hundreds -- sometimes thousands -- of northern elephant seals sprawl across the sand, their enormous bodies rising and falling as waves crash nearby. During peak seasons, the beach comes alive with the deep, echoing calls of dominant males, the watchful presence of mothers and pups, and the ever-changing drama of survival. It’s a rare chance to stand just steps away from one of nature’s most fascinating gatherings, where the power and vulnerability of wildlife unfold in real time. From a walkway far above their habitat, tourists from all over the globe observe the elephant seal habitat below. Volunteers have helped save the elephant seal and create a lovely display with informative posters. NEARLY EXTINCT at one time, the elephant seal is making a whale of a comeback. Female elephant seals on California coast far outnumber the more elusive males. As the seals surrender to dusk, a lovely sunset caps the day near San Simeon. There's something wonderfully joyous about gazing down at the beach to behold them stretched out on the sand. Finding elephant seals on the California Coast means you're watching a rare sight: a veritable bounty of elephant seals at rest and play, a sight seen in few places on the planet. They groom themselves, snuggle and snooze. You hear their calls, watch them romp and tend their young, and revel in the miracle of their existence. These beautiful creatures were nearly destroyed by man, but they're making an elephantine (pardon the pun) comeback. By the way, they take their name not from their gigantic size but from their trunk-like inflatable snouts. We'd driven many times past the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, but didn't stop until recently, while staying at our favorite Cavalier Motel overnight stop in San Simeon. SUE, THE FRIENDLY hotel check-in clerk, told us the elephant seals were "in" -- big news, because they spend between eight and 10 months of the year in the waters. We drove north from the motel about 10 or so miles, enjoying California's lovely central coast. When we came upon a couple dozen cars, we knew we'd arrived at the viewing area, which spreads several miles 90 miles south of Monterey. Spectacular view from Cavalier Oceanfront Resort balcony suite, a quick drive to the elep[hant seals. IF YOU'RE planning to visit Hearst Castle State Historical Monument in San Simeon, this is just a stone's throw, worth staying another half-day. It's just over a mile south of Point Piedras Blancas. Viewing is open daily, wheelchair accessible, and free. We watched these beautiful creatures with families, campers and city folk -- an international crowd enjoying the seals at close range. The place is above sea and fenced off, to keep the insensitive from wandering too close. Spectacular way to spend a couple hours. Check to make sure they're "in" at California State Parks, or Friends of the Elephant Seal: fes@elephantseal.org Inn by the Lake in Lake Tahoe offers warm hospitality, pleasant views, nearby attractions. UP NEXT: Lake Tahoe beckons, with a pet-friendly motel that offers a great cup of coffee and old-fashioned service. Then a cruise on the lake offers dancing, romancing, spectacular scenery and fine fare. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday when we post for the weekend. Smart, funny, insightful study of feminism its ripples, circles and adjustments over the last half century.

Falling into disrepair, there is still beauty in the abandoned Castle buildings. A visit to Castle, Montana, opens doors to Montana's colorful past. 'CASTLE' MONTANA ONCE FIT FOR A KING NOW FADES INTO HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Buildings were beautifully built, intended to be home for many years, in Castle, Montana. Castle is no ordinary ghost town. It was built to last. MY BROTHER, Rick, likes to take the road less traveled. His last trek took us to the abandoned town of Castle in north-central Montana. Once, years ago, dozens of families lived in this quiet valley not far from White Sulphur Springs. Now, only ghosts inhabit the hills, dales and empty homes of Castle, Montana. Cookie pauses with Nora, on the trail to find Castle, in very rural Montana. My intrepid brother took us on a detour on our way back from Glacier Park and we tromped around the now deserted town, located on private farm land. A couple of trucks slowed down on the dirt and gravel road to eye us. But they passed on by with a friendly wave, after seeing we were only taking photos. We hoped we were not being arrested for trespassing! Signs lead travelers here, even though it is on private property. Here's a bit of history about this beautiful area: Ghost town CASTLE Montana became a map dot in 1884, when the North Carolina Mine opened, according to a U.S. Forest Service interpretive sign. Calamity Jane, it is said, lived briefly in Castle. Miners were drawn by the lure of silver ore and by 1891, Castle hosted 991 mining claims and was an incorporated town with several thousand inhabitants. Its most colorful inhabitant was Calamity Jane, who lived there briefly when she entertained the idea of opening a restaurant and becoming a lady! That endeavor didn't pan out. Today, ghost town lovers may drive down the road to the deserted town, being careful to respect that it is indeed now private land. IT'S TOUCHING to wander about, examining the vestiges of a time when families moved in, building multi-story homes with tall bay windows, adding decorative shingles and other embellishments. Some of the homes sport crumbling but once spacious porches on the town's grassy hill, nestled along a cool stream, snuggling up against the timber line. This beautiful archway could have been a private garden, or sanctuary. Businesses popped up along Main Street - now a Meagher County road - including Baker's General Store and Post Office, Kidd's Furniture Store, Minnie's Sporting House and Berg's Meat Market. There's an interesting archway just inside the town. One wonders if that were someone's special garden, or a place to meditate and sing Sunday hymns surrounded by gorgeous fir trees. I can picture an organ inside and glorious acoustics for chorale music! Will this building be here much longer? ABOUT A dozen buildings remain in Castle, their ghostly appearances contrasted by beautiful wildflowers. Wildlife scamper around the ruins, and we saw deer, elk and squirrels. I even spied a prairie dog suning lazily on a disintegrating rooftop. Although the buildings appear ready to fall if someone sneezes in their direction, the quality of the construction indicates people planned on staying here long-term. Alas, when the boom fizzled, this Castle -- once a golden coach -- became a pumpkin again! COMING UP: Ah, Rome. City of romance, handsome men and women, terrific food, cheap wine and history, history, history at every turn. If you have only a couple of days, consider hiring a private guide. Rome's Colosseum is like no other place on Earth -- vast, artful, full of history. We've done it the last few trips and we recommend it. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends for a fresh look at travel, the arts and life. www.whereiscookie.com

WHERE SHOULD WE GO FOR A QUICK WEEKEND, OR WEEK LONG GET-AWAY? CONSIDER THIS LIVELY, ARTSY MONTANA TOWN Red Lodge, Montana, offers spectacular scenery and one of the world's most stunning drives. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYER PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WHEN YOU want a couple days off, to laze and be reflective, Red Lodge, Montana, delivers. When you want a couple days off to party, frolic, be active and social, or take a wildlife-viewing hike, Red Lodge fills that bill, too. This lovely little mountain town can be sophisticated or laid back. You can dine elegantly with a nod to organic farming in a century-old brick hotel, or enjoy splendid pizza in a historic restaurant. You can shoot pool, play video poker, sing karaoke, dance and stay out late. You can find bargain rack shopping with 50 per cent discounts for name brand tops and jeans.` Buy homemade sausage and delicious pastries at two shops next door to one another. Both the meat market and bakery have legions of friends, both locals and tourists. Red Lodge, a mountain town, is nestled in a picturesque valley, and is a gateway to Yellowstone. I GREW up in a small town not far from Red Lodge, and we drove from Columbus to Red Lodge often for sports events -- our teams were in the same conference -- to Girl Scout and Lions camps up the road, and to favorite family dining venues, Old Piney Dell always a family favorite through the generations. We loved the old Victorians which stand sentinel and show community pride. Red Lodge is famous for its beautifully restored Victorian homes. The fact that it is still there and thriving makes this reporter happy. Winters, took we took to the ski slopes, so it was a nostalgic afternoon when we drove recently up the six-mile road to the run of my youth. While I mostly sat in the warming hut reading, siblings raced down the slopes and reveled in the excitement. RED LODGE can deliver what you need -- excitement or calm. I needed the latter. If you're overwhelmed with activity and challenge, too many activities, projects and people, Red Lodge offers an opportunity to regroup and calm yourself. The "Red Lodge Anxiety Main Street, Red Lodge, offers colorful marquees and neon. Cure" works for me every time. Wildlife is out the door, very near, if you base in Red Lodge. Main Street, Red Lodge, offers colorful marquees and neon. WE RECENTLY ventured to lovely Rock Creek Resort for its picturesque restaurant's fine dining at Old Piney Dell. We also visited Red Lodge Pizza Co., in a beautiful brick building. During my childhood, Piney Dell was a favorite as was Natali's (now the Red Lodge Pizza building). I walked down memory lane gazing at vintage Natali's photos in the back room! Food is still great there, and at Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen and Wine Bar, Bogart's, Cafe Regis and Foster and Logan's Pub. The Pollard Hotel's elegant lodging, top restaurant and pub continue to be favorites. Not far from downtown, you can see wildlife, including both mule deer and white tails -- for photographic adventurers. Yorkies Nick and Nora like Red Lodge for its many dog friendly accommodations. For a fun time with kids, check out the Montana Candy Emporium, and Yellowstone Wildlife Sanctuary is a unique refuge for native animals found injured and rehabilitated in the center. RED LODGE is a hot town in the winter when skiing begins, but it's a fine weekend get-away any time of year. Red Lodge Mountain is a quiet, no hype ski destination, growing in popularity with a national clientele. People love it for its skiing -- "pure and simple," the p.r. folks say. "No lift lines, no attitude, no big prices. Just great snow and great people." My favorite time is summer! But whichever your season, Red Lodge offers an authentic experience in Montana’s Rocky Mountains, summer or winter. It's part of my history, and I love to share it. Call 406 446-1718, the Red Lodge Chamber for more information. Or go to www.redlodge.com or www.redlodgemountain.com COMING NEXT: Exciting news. Our long awaited novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," publishes next Wednesday on Amazon e-books. It's writers are Cookie, aka Christene Meyers, and William Jones. We'd appreciate brisk sales the first couple weeks, anticipating a paperback version: Here's a synopsis to get your literary juices flowing: War threatens to rearrange the world’s boundaries as an unlikely trio discovers love crossing all lines. A dashing bi-sexual American bank robber, beautiful French female sharpshooter and pioneering British film maker star in a tale of passion, vengeance and honor. “Lilian’s Last Dance,” begins in 1907, unfolding during a 10-year span, against a radical art movement, developing film industry and the Great War. Settings include New York, France, rural Montana, Peru and Hollywood. Real-life cameos include Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, D.W. Griffith, Conrad Hilton, Ty Cobb, Pablo Picasso, Charlie Chaplin, “Buffalo Bill” Cody, Gertrude Stein and more. Next week's blog will herald the official release. Remember to explore, learn and live and stay tuned for the book and a series of lively stories about the travels, passions and sidetracks in the making of the novel since its 1997 inception. At: www.whereiscookie.com Please tell your friends!

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "THE CARPE DIEM KIDS" Members of the acclaimed string quartet, Brooklyn Rider, performed in a formal concert to end the official Tippet Rise season, then encored for a casual concert of Beethoven in an informal setting at the venue's library. HIKERS, FRENCH HORNISTS, bikers, bassoonists, backpacks, and million-dollar artwork converge in one of the world's most unique performing arts venues. Tippet Rise Art Center near Fishtail, Montana, is a haven for famous artists and musicians, offering an unusual place where the arts and nature merge. Its founders, Cathy and Peter Halstead have artfully honored their dream that music, art, architecture and landscape could harmonize, intertwine and inspire for the benefit of humanity. In its 10th season, the center wrapped its official concert season Sept. 14 with a standing room only crowd to hear Brooklyn Rider perform Haydn and newer work. While they played, bikers and hikers enjoyed outdoor sculpture created by artists from Spain, Poland and other venues, all top ranked. in their craft. Guests stroll from the Olivier Barn at the formal season's close, enroute to the Library to enjoy an impromptu concert by Brooklyn Rider. The acclaimed string quartet received standing ovations. A SPRING DRAWING awards $10 tickets to the prestigious Tippet Rise season. They are highly prized and coveted by music lovers. In small venues -- the outdoor Domo and Geode, and in the acoustically perfect Olivier Concert Barn, audiences enjoy acclaimed musicians -- soloists, quartets, ensembles. This year's season capped Sept. 14, but thanks to enterprising programming and popular demand, the season has been extended. While two of the three performance events sold out in a couple days, one is still open. Montana's award winning Shakespeare in the Schools offers its adaptation of "Richard III" Oct. 18, at 3 p.m. in the Olivier Music Barn. Registration is at: tippetrise.org Bicyclers head up the road to view sculpture while elsewhere on Tippet Rise campus, visitors stroll to enjoy a cafe lunch or if they have tickets, a concert. And for three more days, guests may enjoy hiking and biking tours to view the impressive Tippet Rise art collection of large sculptural works. The art center extended its public opening through this Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Oct. 3, 4, 5, so guests may enjoy early fall color and crisp mountain air while viewing the 20-plus sculptures including two works by Alexander Calder. Advance registration is required, and reservations are free. This Saturday's Montana Youth Symphony concert with Brahms and Beethoven works, and Sunday's Claire Chase pop-up flute concert sold out quickly after posting. Concert goers often stroll the campus before or after a performance, here Xylem Pavilion. The Center continues to be enjoyed by guests from around the world as well as many U.S. states. We saw license plates from Vermont, Oregon, Colorado, Florida, California and New York last weekend. Click here to register for hiking, biking tours UP NEXT: Vancouver is best enjoyed by Big Bus, and we're bus tour junkies. Come with us to explore the neighborhoods, parks and streets of one of Canada's most vibrant cities. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more. We're moving 13 years of work a creating a new, exciting website, so thanks for your patience during this complicated transition. "The Carpe Diem Kids," -- Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day on Vancouver's Big Bus.

BACK ON TERRA FIRMA IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE! Sydney's famous Harbour Bridge as seen from our veranda Of the Sydney Opera House patio. What a glorious work of art! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Picnic in the wind at Sydney Opera House with new friends from Melbourne. WHAT A glorious entry into Sydney Harbour at dawn this morning...... we are so excited, we are reprising our bridge climb! Just had a picnic in the wind at Sydney Opera House patio....made new friends who live in Melbourne, where we'll be in a couple days. Loved New Zealand and the wonders of the fiords. Saw many dolphin, whales, penguins and the flightless parrot, who was nearly wiped out after the Europeans introduced predators (there were none, in Maori times!) But the kiwi is on the comeback trail. We hope you are upright and enjoying life, wherever on this glorious planet you might be. An architectural wonder: Sydney Opera House represents the sea, with its billowing "sail" motif. Dame Joan Sutherland, Australian born, and a beloved singer, inspired the name of one of the building's many theaters. COMING SOON: We're reading from "Lilian's Last Dance" in Melbourne, and will be hawking the novel in other Aussie towns large and small..... Our new "Down Under" friends are fascinated by the west and the part a fellow Aussie plays in the drama. Next up, the many actresses who played in "Annie Get Your Gun." Explore, learn, live and remember "carpe diem"! Soon: The Sydney Opera House and its controversial beginnings. Join us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com