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- Free walking tours offer value and a terrific way to know a city quickly
Luiz, our fine Brazilian born guide in Porto, Portugal, took us around the city to its hidden corners as well as exploring its famous bridges, squares and plazas. He was lively, smart and well tipped. FUN WAY TO HIT THE HIGH SPOTS, DISCOVER A NEW PLACE, MAKE FRIENDS, LEARN HISTORY, ART, CULTURE A free walking tour is a great way to get a sampling of how people live. Note patio plants and laundry drying. Few Europeans have clothes dryers. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER This lively Portuguese guide is a singer, art history major and a wonderful ambassador for her country and her native Lisbon . WALKING TOURS are a wonderful way to get a quick fix on a new place. They're growing in popularity around the world. We've tried a dozen of them in seven countries, and enjoyed three more on this latest foray which concentrated on southern Europe. The enticement of a "free tour" is appealing to many travelers, when a group tour booked through a cruise line or travel agency averages $50 to $100-plus per person, depending on the length. Private tours for a couple can surpass several hundred dollars. So for adventuresome folks such as the two of us, and people trying to avoid breaking the bank, a "free" tour is a fine alternative. This shop window was a photo stop on a Barcelona free tour . WE APPRECIATE the fact that the guides are always articulate, well educated and have a sense of humor. They're helpful and eager to give directions, pointers and advice on ATM machines, shopping and dining. "Free" tours are not really free if you have a conscience. You'll want to tip at least $12 or $15 per person -- about the same equivalent in Euros. That's not much for a two or three-hour crash course in history, art, architecture, music, food, hotels, parks and gardens. "Free" walking tours started in Berlin in 2004 and have spread to over 40 cities around the world, including nearly every major tourist destination in Europe (Barcelona has several of the best), in most major U.S. cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, in South American capitals, and in Asia, where free tours are offered in Seoul, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Tokyo, Istanbul, Shanghai and Dubai. They're not a passing fad from the on-line reviews and international enthusiasm. Free tours are here to stay. OF THE MANY ways we explore a new city, we find a free tour combined with a half-day "hop on and hop off" bus tour make a perfect introduction to a new town. We even repeat this pattern in cities we've visited multiple times -- such as Barcelona, Paris and Amsterdam. For a quick fix on a new place, nothing beats a free walking tour. The tours usually start in a central, well known part of the town -- A tour in Victoria, B.C., pointed out this unique tea shop where we returned on our own next day. Dam Square in Amsterdam or San Marco Piazza in Venice, for instance. From there, you set off to visit landmarks and get tips on history: battles, marriages, mutinies and more. You listen to enthusiastic, well educated guides share facts and myths about the town they love and often grew up in. You find places you'd like to revisit -- so you can easily do so. You set off on a lively tour of discovery, finding hidden gems only locals know. Be prepared to walk fast: free tours cover a lot of ground, enriching perceptions of a city in a few busy hours. The Colosseum in Rome is a stop of most free walking tours. A free tour in Tuscany included a wine cellar tour with optional wine tasting for a small fee. FREE TOURS are one way savvy travelers see the world. From booking a packaged tour months in advance with travel guru Rick Steves, to picking up a half-day tour the night before, travelers find myriad options to tour -- from buses to bicycles, rickshaws to Segways. While each mode has its advantages, we prefer a walking tour. The main reason is because the worry and strain are removed. You're with a trusted guide, you walk with others, you feel safe while being informed. You also get gentle exercise -- and tips on ways to make up for that at local eateries, ice cream shops, bakeries and specialty restaurants. You get more bang for your buck -- while meeting other travelers. We've made friends on walking tours and contacts with people we've traveled with again. We've also noticed that single travelers like walking tours because they make connections with other people and find the trip less lonely. Language is never a problem, either. We speak Berlitz French, Spanish, Dutch and Portuguese, but we've always found English speaking guides in the reservation process. You'll also see an option for free tours in the local language -- so if you're daring, give that a try. (We've taken French speaking tours in Paris and fared well with our college French.) We've never met a European guide who didn't speak fluent English. Our "Freedam" tour guide in Amsterdam was fluent in several languages, including his native Italian. A lively history buff and art major guide (in far right corner) was our excellent free tour host for a free tour in Lisbon. (Cookie and Keller behind her.) TO PREPARE , we share a backpack to take a light jacket or sweater, a couple bottles of water, protein bars, hats and sun screens. We try to get a good night's sleep before a tour because you'll get a workout. The guides try to cover optimum ground in three or four hours. The routes are efficiently planned to include major sights, learn about the history and culture, with time for questions and stops for quick shopping if you ask. The group may go ahead, but the guide will tell you where to meet next. All our guides have been helpful in showing us where to find a rest room or grab a quick snack if we've forgotten to bring one. They're either natives of the city or have lived there long enough to be considered so. They've done copious research, visited museums and galleries, know who's playing at the concert halls and share anecdotes along with bits of history. Our guides have been jovial and fun to listen to, with a sense of humor and a knack for answering questions with precision. That's why tipping is important. These guides work hard to give us an enriching experience, with courtesy, patience and insider tips. We've even had guides make dinner and show reservations for us and take us to an ATM that didn't charge an exorbitant processing fee. SO DON'T forget to tip. And tell your friends. www.barcelonaturisme.com www.visitbarcelona.com www.catalunya.com www.freetour.com ; www.freedamtours.com www.freetoursbyfoot.com ; www.visitbarcelona.com www.internationalgreeter.org www.portocvb.com www.visitlisboa.com A pair of brilliant actors -- Bryan Banville and Luke Harvey Jacobs -- bring "The Mystery of Irma Vep" to San Diego. BEST BET: I first saw (and loved) "The Mystery of Irma Vep" in 1985 in New York City. Charles Ludlam's witty, wacky, fast-paced comedy is alive and well at San Diego's Diversionary Theatre through Dec. 24. It's worth a trip to southern California for the holiday cheer and laughter it provides. Two accomplished actors -- Bryan Banville and Luke Harvey Jacobs -- play a string of over-the-top characters in this crazy parody of Victorian Gothic themes and Alfred Hitchcock's "Rebecca." Think farce, exaggerated facial expressions, split-second costume changes and clever staging. Mix it up with a peg leg, a wolf, a vampire and audience participation for a hefty helping of queer, high-camp humor deftly directed by Matt M Morrow and Allison Spratt Pearce. More fun than a sleigh ride, sing-along or Santa visit. Put this in your Christmas stocking and don your gay apparel . 619 220-0097. diversionary.org Famed Portuguese actor Joao Reis narrates a beautiful music, light, energy and color show called "Spiritus." UP NEXT: Immersive shows are the trend -- from "Nutcracker" and the life of Vincent Van Gogh in Las Vegas to a thrilling multi-media show in Portugal celebrating classical music, nature and the world of the spirit. It's called "Spiritus," and it should put you in the spirit for the holidays. Everything is aglow and over the top with lights, and wonder at Clerigos Church, the famed Portuguese house of worship with its iconic tower. We share an insider's look at this inventive multi-media show in a beautiful sanctuary. So beam yourself to Porto and fasten your multi-media seatbelts as we share a trendy, immersive show with full lights, visuals and more. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the performing arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- A general's dream: When and If' sails smoothly into immortality
When and If is a beautiful sailing vessel combining the best characteristics of a racing boat with the comforts of a sturdy yacht built for pleasure and big enough for a family's comfort. Below, with wind in their hair, Christene "Cookie" Meyers" and Bruce Keller enjoy a sail. MAJESTIC SAILING YACHT IS A WAR HERO'S BEAUTIFULLY DESIGNED DREAM STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN WORLD War II was in its full brutal fury, a much decorated general dreamed about a peaceful time when he could sail the world's waters. Hoisting the sails for a gorgeous sunset ride. Then Colonel George S. Patton shared his idea for a sleek yet comfortable yacht with famous boat builder John Alden. His clever and artistic friend, known for his beautiful designs, was up to the challenge. Thus the yacht When and If was commissioned by the internationally known American war hero. His luxurious private yacht was built that same year -- 1939 -- by boatbuilder F.F. Pendleton in Wiscasset, Maine. Its name comes from Patton's hope to sail the world "when" the war ended and "if" he survived. Sitting comfortably under When and If's sails, a couple from Portugal enjoys a leisurely sail and a beautiful sunset off Key West. WE RECENTLY set sail on her, relaxing on comfy seat cushions on the vessel's handsome and sturdy, double planked mahogany. Black locust frames and an oak keel enhance the comfort on this smooth-sailing vessel enjoyed for its thoughtful detail by lucky passengers, including my lifelong sailing partner, Bruce Keller. His enthusiastic take: "When and If is unique -- a thoughtfully adventuresome notion." Photographer Keller knows his way around a sail boat and has sailed many of the world's seas, as Patton hoped to. "The general had a dream and knew the best builder to help make it come true. Now it lives on long after him." True enough. Patton, who died in 1945, sailed the east coast of the United States in his treasured boat, but never did take his beloved When And If on the world cruise he imagined. But he and his wife did sail her up and down the East Coast and on Chesapeake Bay. The general had high praise for designer Alden. When and If is his show piece in a long list of creations made by this renowned builder of elite racing schooners. Patton said Alden's crafts "retained both beauty and style while winning premier ocean races of the time." George and Beatrice Patton aboard When and If on Chesapeake Bay. AT THE TIME of its conception, in 1939, When and If was remarkable for its racing capabilities and for its comfortable and safe features. Our captain said she sometimes hosts nearly three dozen people for gatherings of friends and family. One such event happened the day after our sunset cruise (more on that later.) Although our voyage was just hours long, When and If is equipped for the long voyage which Patton hoped to take. PATTON DIED in a military hospital in Germany, of a blood clot following a horrific auto accident which left him partially paralyzed. But despite the general's untimely death in 1945, the boat he imagined took on a new life. His dream boat attained the immortality that escaped him. While Patton is considered one of the most brilliant military strategists of all time, his When and If is considered a brilliantly constructed vessel. When and If 's galley is more spacious than most sailing vessels, with a large sink, stoves, storage and prep space. It boasts six comfy cabins for up to six adult guests. As a military leader, Patton produced more results in less time, with fewer casualties than any other general during his WWII Army years. Similarly, When and If has won accolades from sailors and celebrities, including longtime CBS anchor and famed broadcast journalist Walter Cronkite, a devoted sailor who praised its combination of sleekness and comfort. TODAY, THE POPULAR yacht is used for parties and celebrations. During our visit it was booked for a memorial service and burial at sea for a much loved resident of Key West. The word yacht comes from the Dutch, and originally meant light and smooth sailing. Here is When and If at sunset. The yacht has a colorful "post Patton" history. She remained in the family until 1972 when the general’s nephew, Neal Ayer, made a gift of the vessel to the Landmark School in Prides Crossing, Massachusetts. She was the center piece of a sail training program for dyslexic children until November of 1990 when a storm broke her mooring line broke and drove her onto the rocks. When and If is kept in immaculate condition in Key West, and can be booked for a sail or celebration. Although the damage was extensive, the structural integrity of the ship was unaffected. Soon, she attracted a sailing buff who purchased her. She remained in private ownership, and over the next three years was painstakingly restored. She was was re-launched to great fanfare in 1994 when keynote speaker for the celebration was sailor-journalist Cronkite. He praised both her strength as well as the superior work of Shipwrights Gannon and Benjamin in Vineyard Haven, Mass., the yard that brought her back to life. Fast forward. In 2013,When and If was purchased and restored anew by Doug Hazlitt, who eyed the boat for her “strength and elegance.” A sleek, modern catamaran is ideal for enjoying San Francisco with its wonderful sights. Here, we pass under the Golden Gate bridge. She was then purchased by Captain Seth Salzmann in 2015, and was part of Tall Ships Festivals in 2015, 2016, and 2017. The colorful travel that eluded Patton included When and If's journeys with Sail Training International. She made it to Bermuda, Boston and on to all corners of the Canadian Maritimes. Perhaps Patton is smiling down from his crow's nest in the sky. To book or inquire about Key West or this unique yacht: https://fla-keys.com/key-west/ www.sailwhenandif.com UP NEXT: While we're in a sailing mood, come aboard Adventure Cat, and see San Francisco as you never have before. She's a sleek, modern catamaran ideal for a bird's eye view of San Francisco Bay. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on sailing, travel, family, nature, art and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- San Francisco sail: Adventure Cat is purr-fect way to see the bay
Adventure Cat is a beautifully designed, smooth sailing vessel available for a variety of sailings. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Enjoying the sea breeze, two of our "catamaran companions" on a unique sailing trip in San Francisco. A SAIL like you've never had before. That's the promise that enticed us to book a relaxing afternoon with Adventure Cruises on a recent San Francisco visit. What a way to see the bay! As veteran Bay Area visitors and veteran sailors, we always look for something new -- on the water, if possible. San Francisco from Adventure Cat at night, its lights aglow. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller aboard Venture Cat on a brisk, sunny sail. We found it in this adventure, which offers an exhilarating, fast, thrilling catamaran ride across the occasionally choppy waters of San Francisco Bay. In this sleek catamaran, we were seldom aware of the waves. Nice! ADVENTURE CAT offers a variety of sail adventures: private charters for a special party or celebration, sunset sails, bay sails and city lights. The spacious catamarans have a distinctive logo -- a sleek black cat. And a fun blog follows the adventures of the crew and clients. Naturally, a nautically inclined cat is featured. We recommend Adventure Cat for many reasons, including the spacious nature of the catamaran. We joined only a handful of other guests, so we had our run of the boat for custom-made viewing and a stable, safe ride. Nothing like fresh air and occasional waves on the deck -- all right up our alley. But the protection of covering in the cabin is also an option. FOR FAMILIES looking for a sail that both educates and provides fun, or couples seeking a romantic evening out, Adventure Cat is a perfect choice. It was a highlight of this recent San Francisco visit. Our captain made sure we saw the most popular attractions, including the seal lions gathered by the wharf -- complete with sound effects and a distinctive aroma. We didn't see whales -- although friends did the week before -- but we spotted many pelicans, dolphins and the aromatic sea lions. Our sail took us around the infamous prison on Alcatraz Island, before we zipped underneath the Golden Gate Bridge and headed back, all the time admiring the city’s famed skyline as the crew pointed out famous San Francisco landmarks Seals and sea lions at Pier 39, part of the much photographed pastiche of sights greeting sailors who board Adventure Cat. SAFETY is always a concern on boats and the crew makes sure there's no jumping or climbing. Strong netting allows the more daring to experience the feeling of having the waves rushing right under the feet while relaxing in the sun. We were comfortable just luxuriating on our private bench, using our rain coats when the wind whipped up. We did come once inside the protected cabin, which is an option if it's windy. Large viewing windows allow sights of land, sky and water to float by equally visible. Soda, beer and wine are available at the cabin bar. WHAT WE loved most about this sailing catamaran was the quiet ride. No sound of engines once the sails are hoisted -- yet we were impressed with the speed. We didn't need the audio tour, but it is available in seven languages for international guests. As we zipped away from one of the world's most dramatic skylines, we felt the thrill of viewing this exciting city from a unique vantage point. We felt pampered on our almost private sail. A first-rate sail begins with an enthusiastic crew and knowledgeable captain on Adventure Cat. WE CHOSE the 90-minute "Bay Sail," one of several sails offered by this ambitious enterprise which shows off this iconic bay from a prime vantage point. We had our run of the boat for a generous 105 minutes. We didn't dare to gild the lily, but the jovial crew urged adventuresome sailors to test the expansive deck netting as a trampoline. No takers. But a couple who joined our small, pleasant group spent the entire sail relaxing there and cuddling. "Cookie and Keller" with Alcatraz behind them. A couple times, it was fun to hear them squeal in delight when they got a spray from the bay's brisk waters. BECAUSE WE tour often and have been on many a sail, we're very aware of service, value and knowledge. We like commentary, and the crew had answers to all our questions. They were both articulate and personable, and know and love their boat and the world of sailing. A catamaran sail on the bay. Good for the spirit. For more info or to book : www.adventurecat.com For getting around in San Francisco, free admission to many attractions: www.citypass.com This meal was an impromptu discovery in northern Spain -- an appealing array of parador snacks -- pizza (born in Italy), asparagus, sweet potato fries with aioli, N/A beer for Keller and a Spanish white wine for Cookie, all served with flair. UP NEXT: Food, glorious food.... All travel, whether near or far, is enhanced by a good meal, tasty snack, hearty breakfast or appealing appetizer. We take you around the world with us to bars and bistros, modest cafes and five-star restaurants. We're not snobs by any means, and some of our most delightful taste treats have been in small, unexpected "finds." Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, dining, cruising, nature, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com Please share links with like-minded friends and family. We appreciate it.
- Porto's Casa Sao Roque offers art, architecture, an intriguing oasis
Entrepreneur Pedro Ribeiro, right, gives Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers a private tour of his unique art museum, a converted manor house and hunting lodge in Portugal. ART MUSEUM, PARK, LIBRARY, CAFE, WITH FILM, PHOTOS,PAINTINGS, SCULPTURE, COLLAGE, MEDIA ENTICEMENTS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Plants enhance Casa Sao Roque Centro de Arte, inspired by French and Belgian architecture with a nod to Porto decorative arts. BOLD SPIRITS and colorful personalities of both past and present greet visitors at Casa Sao Roque Centro de Arte. The long gone owners of the splendid home in Porto, Portugal, left their mark. But the man who salvaged and renovated the building as it slid into neglect is the primary influence on the elegant home that greets the contemporary visitor. Art connoisseur Pedro Alvares Ribeiro fell in love with the one-time hunting lodge, built in 1759 by a wealthy Porto merchant. A former banker turned art collector and philanthropist, Ribeiro had a vision of what the home could become. "Besides, I wanted to give something back," he said. "I've had a lucky life." A SUCCESSFUL banking career augmented an inheritance from his entrepreneurial professor father and a wealthy grandfather who presided over a flourishing port wine company. This good fortune helped Ribeiro purchase the home and lovingly restore it. "I have done well and been fortunate in life," he reflects, "so I had in mind a place to share beauty with others from around the world, a museum if you will, but with excitement -- with components to engage the senses." Besides booking impressive international changing exhibitions, he integrated items from his private art collection. "For years, I've collected pieces. When I first saw the place, I envisioned them fitting perfectly here." And so they do -- including 16th Century African chairs, eye-catching ceramics and paintings from his private archives. Ribeiro talks about his restoration project in the building's beautiful glass winter garden. The Warhol show includes the artist's creations as well as personal film, and other significant material from his art career. THE HOME has a stately feel, with beautifully crafted windows and elegant detail at every turn. Viewers admire elaborate metal work, polished wooden finishes and new stucco with an "old" look to perfectly match the original. Said my engineer-contractor-photographer partner, Bruce Keller, "It's a show piece for meticulous detail. Every room is unique." Every detail in the house is exquisitely designed. The elegance of the home has survived. Here the former dining room, now exhibition space, is painstakingly restored . In 1759 when the home was constructed, it was on the outskirts of Porto, a charming northern Portuguese town which vies with larger Lisbon for tourism. A four-acre park where gentry once hunted now attracts families. São Roque was also Casa Ramos Pinto, and before that, was part of Quinta da Lameira, where the lord of the manor hunted. "It was typical of those owned by bourgeoisie and noble families from Porto," says Ribeira, explaining its various incarnations. Several more wealthy, noble names inhabited the place. In the 19th Century, it belonged to the family of Maria Virginia de Castro. In 1888, she married António Ramos Pinto, a well-known exporter of Portugal's famous port wine. They put their two fortunes together to improve the mansion, commissioning an intricate remodeling and expansion project supervised by distinguished architect José Marques da Silva. It took 11 years -- between 1900 and 1911 -- and included design of an elaborate garden, under the watchful eye of another well known figure, Jacinto de Matos. Immaculately restored and polished banister. That remains today, with carefully groomed camellia trees now over a century old. They are prized and cared for by Ribeiro and his staff. RIBEIRO IMAGINES life of the gentry in the day -- a small group of friends gathered at the manor house for dinner and a glass of port, to discuss art and politics, gaze at the rich valley below, watch wildlife and enjoy conversation as a pleasant breeze refreshed them. Perhaps they'd stroll the gardens, admiring the camellias, stooping to inhale the scent of herbs in the vegetable gardens, harvested by servants for meal preparation. Now, fast forward to 2023. Art lovers from around the world come to see the fruits of Ribeiro renovation. He's traveled the world to connect with fellow art aficionados, gallery owners and museum directors. As president and CEO of Casa Sao Roque, he books exhibitions to complement the building's unique architecture, art and history. On view now through Jan. 31 is an exhibit by Andy Warhol, famed American visual artist, film director, and producer. Americans know him as a leading figure in the visual art movement known as pop art. "Warhol, People and Things" is reason enough to visit the Casa, with an affordable admission under $10. The extensive exhibition focuses on Warhol and his influence across several generations of photographers, filmmakers, musicians and multi-media artists. We watched fascinating films with Ribeiro -- and admired works by Warhol, close friends and other contemporary artists from New York, Porto and Lisbon. The collaboration reached across the Atlantic to New York's Mishkin Gallery and Baruch College of the City University of New York. Ribeiro uses his international art connections to the museum's advantage. Also on view is the inaugural exhibition of one of his favorite artists. Ana Jotta's "Inventoria," is chapter one in a series of exhibitions devoted to the notion of Casa Sao Roque. A well stocked art library and pleasant cafe attract visitors for refreshment and reflection after they've toured the museum. The extensive Warhol exhibition borrowed from New York City galleries and museums. After a tour of La Casa Sao Roque, a Porto family enjoys beverages and dessert in a charming cafe and art book library. THE CASA alone is worth a trip to the exciting city of Porto. You'll find endless opportunities, diversions, and amusements in this northern Portuguese town which has been quietly garnering attention and attracting visitors from the southern Portuguese city of Lisbon. More info on the museum or to plan a trip to Porto: www.casasroque.art/pt/inicio/ www.portocvb.com www.visitporto.com www.portocard.city/en/ UP NEXT: Sailing the waters off the coast of Lisbon is an exciting way to spend a few hours. In a city famous for its bridges, Tagus Cruises offers unique sailing tours designed to show off the city's historic sights and famous bridges. We take you under the bridges and across the waters to the statue of Christ the Redeemer, and the historic Belem Tower. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more, at: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link.
- Lisbon's Tagus Cruises showcases spectacular coastline, monuments
Tagus Cruises offers an appealing variety of sailings off Lisbon's lovely shores. Here, new friends from three continents enjoy a morning sail around Lisbon's iconic monuments and bridges. SAIL AWAY YOUR TROUBLES & CARES ON CALMING PORTUGUESE WATERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The striking, monumental Padrão dos Descobrimentos -- Monument to the Discoveries-- st ands 170 feet tall and is a major attraction by land or sea. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the marina ready to board Tagus Cruises for a "double header." IF YOU want a few hours away from it all, and love being on the water, you'll find no more relaxing outing than a sail with Tagus Cruises in Lisbon, Portugal. Tagus uses a variety of sailing vessels -- from graceful sailing yachts, to sailing and power catamarans. Your choice. There are also appealing options for small and middle-sized groups looking for a peaceful time on the water with someone else in the "driver's seat." We booked a sightseeing cruise, then were so happy we signed on for a second cruise to enjoy the spectacular Lisbon sunset. PRIVATE CHARTERS are also available, and booked regularly by locals. We sailed on our first Tagus outing with a working couple from Lisbon, and a tourist couple from Australia. The locals were celebrating a quiet day in their home town by taking a sail. Tagus Cruises is easy to find on the marina near Altis Hotel. The gentleman said his high-tech business uses Tagus for company holiday parties as well as business meetings. Hard to imagine concentrating on work with beautiful statues and bridges competing for attention. But Tagus Cruises has a popular following among businesses, as well as the tourist trade, and with faithful locals who love being on the water and sharing their city's architecture and variety with guests. OUR CAPTAIN honored the Tagus promise to show off Lisbon's famous bridges and monuments. First, he made certain we had a close-up view of Lisbon's Christ statue, patterned after the famous, larger Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. He spent a good 15 minutes giving us a splendid view of "Cristo Rei," one of the most iconic monuments in Lisbon. The statue of Christ stands high above the southern banks of the Tejo Estuary, which we also viewed. It is teeming with protected bird life and ranks as the largest wetland in the country and one of the most important in Europe. Our nature loving crew explained that it is also a sanctuary for fish, mollusks and crustaceans. WHILE GETTING unique views of the bridges, beaches, even the industrial area, we learned a bit about Lisbon's colorful history. It is one of the oldest cities in western Europe. Like many other European cities, it has been home to many and varied peoples and has seen its share of war and conquest. After the region was settled by the Celts, it was founded by those well traveled Phoenicians around 1200 BC, making it 400 years older than Rome. Passing under Lisbon's beautiful bridges. These highly educated people established a settlement called Ulissipo, becoming successful merchants, traders and colonizers until they were conquered by the Greeks and Carthaginians. As a thriving capital city of Portugal, today's Lisbon maintains its strategic geographical position at the mouth of the Tagus, the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula and the river from which the cruise company takes its name. TAGUS CRUISES earns its reputation for excellence. Besides being well maintained, its boats are new, shiny and small enough that we never felt cramped or crowded. We had the run of the vessels on two separate outings with spectacular, smooth, sight-filled experiences on the water. Best part: we actually sailed on both outings, a pleasure since the winds were just right and we motored only briefly. SAILING HAS become one of my favorite hobbies, since my lifelong sailor partner introduced me to it 16 years ago. Here are some of the reasons we love to sail: Being on a boat slows down time and helps one ponder. On a sailboat, we truly feel we're "getting away from it all." Lisbon's sights are muted and lovely on a sunset cruise. Sailing also offers the opportunity to learn. It's fun to watch the crew man -- "and woman" the ropes and sails. Just watching, I've learned much about the technical skill and expertise necessary to be a good sailor. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on a sunset cruise, framed by Lisbon architecture. As mentioned, we liked our morning sail so much that we booked a sunset sail for the next day. Again, we tied it in with the excellent Lisbon City Card and convenient "hop on, hop off" bus connection. A Tagus cruise also includes a beverage and the crew offered beer, iced tea or soft drinks. Don't forget: you'll want to tip the crew. A reasonable tip is 10 or 15 per cent of what you paid. Prices range from a reasonable 25 Euros for the one-hour tour on up to several hundred Euros for private charters, if you're feeling flush or want to treat 15 or so of your favorite people. Remember the Lisbon city card will save you Euros, wear and tear and help with myriad museum admissions. We recommend the 3-day card. We can't wait to return to one of our favorite cities -- in a favorite part of a country we've come to know and love. More information on Lisbon, or to book: taguscruises.com visitlisboa.com Cookie eyes the camera with a still warm bag of freshly roasted peanuts from Lisbon's delightful market. Fresh fruit, vegetables, cheeses, meats and a large offering of Portugal's famous port wine are sold. UP NEXT: "Taste Porto." While we're in Portugal, we move north to Porto, where we sample local a tasty variety of local dishes -- including the country's famous cod. We also take you shopping in a beautiful market and learn about Porto's rich history, architecture and culture. We play a piano in a centuries old restaurant, and buy a bag of freshly roasted peanuts. We'll even share a recipe for a delectable Portuguese sausage and bean stew. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www. whereiscookie.com Please share the links.
- Eating a scrumptious trail through Porto with history lesson on the side
Our lively "Taste Porto" food tour guide, Ines, walks us through a colorful market, pointing out a bounty of fruits grown near the city, and offering bits of history, architecture and favorite dishes. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers explore the streets of Porto in a pleasant food and walking tour with top-ranked "Taste Porto." FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD! TOUR INCLUDES TASTINGS, HISTORY, WALKING, SHOPPING, SIPPING A GOOD FOOD tour includes small bites and tasty samples of the city's culinary offerings. It also stimulates conversation about local customs and culture, and answers foodie questions. Cookie purchases a bag of warm, freshly roasted peanuts at a market. Food tours are a fun, tasty way to glean bits of history and color about the place you're visiting. You'll glean tips on where to dine and shop and your guide will recommend favorite hang-outs frequented by locals. He or she will even make you a reservation for dinner during your stay. OUR FOOD TOUR in Porto, Portugal, delved into the country's connection to its former colony, Brazil, and its use of fish, pork and beans -- staples in northern Portugal. We learned why Taste Porto is top-ranked by Lonely Planet guides, and has hosted both Rick Steves and the late Anthony Bourdain. The tastings were well chosen and the commentary was delivered by a smart, well informed, friendly guide. Portuguese pastries are many and varied. One is filled with savory minced veal, the other with warm chocolate. We've tried a dozen food tours around the world -- from Tokyo to Victoria, Rio to Key West -- and are sold on this enjoyable way to spend a few hours, visit historic areas and stop five or six times for refreshments. Food tours are less hectic than strictly walking tours. We often partake of these, too, because they provide a wonderful, two or three-hour immersion. But they can be exhausting if you're into a slower approach to touring. Bruce Keller tucks into a Portuguese draft beer. FOOD TOURS offer welcome breaks where you visit with fellow foodies, taste the country's offerings, use the facilities and revive for the next foray to a new cafe, market, bakery or bar. Our Taste Porto tour began with pastels -- pastries -- at A Loja dos Pasteis de Chaves. We sampled both sweet and savory varieties of this favorite flaky treat. On to Bolhao Wine House, in a colorful market, for samples of fish and vinho verde branco -- the country's delicious dry white wine. Portugal is famous for its delectable stews and dried, salted cod -- bacalhau -- as well as smoked ham and tender, slow-cooked pork, which we sampled in a small sandwich, in Flor dos Congregados. TASTE PORTO promises its participants feel like they're taking a walking-talking-tasting tour with a local friend. We agree. Our lively, well informed guide even found a piano for me to play in one of the city's oldest eateries, while guiding us through her artfully designed tour. Cookie entertains at Flor dos Congregados: roasted pork, ham, sparkling red wine and piano . She shared history, architecture, culture, and cuisine with our group of 10 from Paris, Belfast, San Francisco, Munich, Idaho and Montana. Ines also kindly made a reservation for us at a fado club the next night. We really "tasted" Porto, capping the tour with cod fritters and "naughty rice," espresso and chocolate. The pauses were nicely choreographed as Ines pointed out monuments, parks and historic buildings. For food and wine aficionados, we recommend Taste Porto for its mini master class of classic Portuguese food and drink. Its three kilometers of history, culture and food filled stops. Portuguese bean and meat stew is served in many variations. Cooks can add meats and veggies, but pork, sausage, beans and carrots are a must. Here's a tasty recipe for Portuguese Bean Stew This traditional, hearty stew of red beans with pork and sausage is popular in both Portugal and its largest former colony, Brazil. In rural areas, the meat is slow-cooked pig’s feet and pig’s ears. A Porto friend adapted this recipe in his home in the mountainous region in Northeastern Portugal where the Douro flows in from Spain. Ingredients: 2 to 4 garlic cloves, 2 medium sweet onions, 2 tbsp olive oil, a pound of boneless pork shoulder or butt cut into one-inch cubes, 2 carrots cut into thick "coins," one large sausage, sliced into thick rounds. (Chouriço and linguiça sausages make an authentic version, but smoked sausage or Polish sausage are fine.) 4 oz bacon, cut or torn into shreds,2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped, or one One14-ounce can chopped tomatoes, 1/2 cup red wine, water, as needed salt and pepper, to taste 1/2 lb cabbage, chopped 1 - 14.5-oz can kidney or red beans Peel and mince garlic cloves and onion, and cook over medium-high heat in olive oil in deep iron skillet or Dutch oven until they brown. Add cubed pork. stir, brown. Add carrot, sausage rounds and shredded bacon. Cook until bacon begins to brown and render its fat. Mix in chopped tomatoes, pour in red wine, stirring to blend. Increase heat. When stew is bubbling again, add enough water to cover. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Lower heat. Cook 10 more minutes. Stir in chopped cabbage, cover pot, cook another 15 minutes. Add red beans, bring back to a boil; cook to heat through and blend flavors. Check seasoning. Serve with crusty bread or rice and favorite wine. Cod fritters with "naughty rice" (tomato rice) at Popina, where boiled eggs and red onion complement the flavors. Porto's winding streets and classic buildings are described in the fun food tour stroll. www.tasteporto.com www.portocvb.com www.citypasses.eu/en/citytrip-porto/porto-card/ Porto's Arrabida Bridge Climb is world famous and we did it! UP NEXT: We're climbing another bridge. Only five bridges in the world allow climbing and we'll ascend the fifth soon, in Brisbane, Australia. Now, though, we climb our fourth bridge, in Porto, Portugal. The Porto Bridge Climb on the beautiful Ponte da Arrabida is a challenging adventure for the two of us sightseers and amateur bridge climbers. On the trail of exploration, we climb in a small group to view Porto's historic sights from on high. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the links.
- Spectacular Porto bridge climb yields uphill climb, stunning views
Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Bruce Keller, and new friends from Paris, at the top of Arrabida Bridge. BRIDGE CLIMBERS ADD ANOTHER FEATHER TO THEIR CAP WITH A FUN CLIMB IN PORTO, PORTUGAL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The weather was windy but the spirits were sunny on yet another bridge climb. WE CAN'T CLIMB every mountain, but we can and will climb every bridge that allows us! Only five bridges in the world allow climbers to legally ascend them. A dozen other beautiful bridges allow walkers to stroll, walk or run across them -- some on designated days only. But that's quite different than climbing. Bruce Keller suits up with help from one of our two lovely guides. Joana and Mariana were cheerful and helpful during the climb. The few bridges that sanction climbers have strict guidelines and pay high insurance. One (Sydney's Harbour Bridge Climb) even insists on a breath test to make certain you've not any alcohol in your system. OUR MOST recent bridge climbing adventure was on a windy, rainy day in Porto, Portugal. We ventured to the Arrabida Bridge, for a user-friendly, rewarding climb with stunning views of Porto, and a nip at the summit of Portugal's famous port to send us back down. The rain even stopped as we climbed, assisted by our limber and helpful guides Joana and Mariana! Suiting up Cookie for the climb. Completed in 1963, Arrábida Bridge spans Portugal’s Douro River to connect Porto and the smaller Vila Nova de Gaia. Measuring 890 feet (270 meters), it was the largest concrete-arch bridge at the time of its completion. Journalists came to record its predicted collapse, but it held fast and is a big draw today for tourists like the two of us who climbed the arch. Cookie slides her lanyard attachment up the cable. AFTER BEING "harnessed in" to secure us should we stumble, we began our climb. We really couldn't have fallen in the river but there are precautions and we're grateful for them. So slowly, we climbed the bridge's impressive arch by walking up its steep granite staircase. The bridge's architectural excellence makes it worth a visit in its own right, but the climb adds another layer of excitement. It's 213 feet (65 meters) to the top of the bridge, where we caught our breath while studying an exhibit on Portuguese bridges. The main attraction, though, were the gorgeous city views. We gazed below, where the day before we'd taken one of the many boat trips and cruises offered. Climbers at midway, on their way to the top, where the views are spectacular, and the sun is most often shining. WE ARRIVED in a drizzle, common for this time of year in Portugal. We'd connected easily from our central Porto hotel on the "Hop on and Hop Off" bus feature, part of the city pass. My husband predicted a "fairly easy climb and great view" and indeed both were true, although I had a bit of trouble with my lanyard. I couldn't get it at first to slide easily past the regularly spaced cable supports. The stanchion brackets allow for the individual to slip his lanyard around, so one can continue up the bridge. It took some practice, but I mastered it and the cheerful guide and other climbers were patient with me. At the summit: a taste of port wine to salute the endeavor. WITH JUST under 250,000 inhabitants, Porto is the second largest city in Portugal. Only Lisbon, the country’s capital city, has more inhabitants. Porto is located in the northwest of the country and is, naturally, a significant port. Tourists visit Porto for its abundant sights and attractions but for port wine tasting parties: a must-do activity during any trip to Porto. Port wine is made of the grapes from the Duoro Valley close to Porto. This strong, sweet, fortified wine is intrinsically connected with the city of Porto and famous all over the world. U.S. presidents, including Thomas Jefferson, favored port as an apertif. Cookie makes a mostly graceful descent down the beautiful bridge. The Arrábida Bridge is well known in Porto and anyone can guide you there. WE FOUND the bridge climbing tour on the northern side of the bridge, from which it generally departs. We used our useful and very handy Porto city cards and hopped off the bus right near the Ponte Arrábida light rail station. If you take the tram, it's line 1. The Casa da Música metro station is a 10-minute drive away. That beautiful building -- the Casa da Música -- is one of Europe's newest and most striking concert halls. It was designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas and opened in 2005. Worth a look; there are daily guided tours. Concerts range from classical to urban, with groups in residence: Porto Symphony Orchestra, Remix Ensemble, Baroque Orchestra and Choir. MORE INFO: www.portobridgeclimb.com www.portocvb.com www.citypasses.eu/en/citytrip-porto/porto-card/ Fado -- Latin for fate -- in Portugal it's an artform. Always sung with emotion and two guitars. Here, a veteran fado singer with the traditional pair of guitars entrances a full house at a Porto club with emotional songs. UP NEXT : Two art forms in southern Europe have stood the test of time. One is in Portugal and the other in Spain, and this moving pair of traditions has become intrinsically linked to the cultures in these two fascinating countries. Fado is Portugal's famous emotional song style, while flamenco is Spain's showy, emotional dance form. We explored a dozen fado and flamenco clubs on a recent visit and share photos and commentary. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Amsterdam's canals offer relaxing time with beauty, intriguing history
In Amsterdam, your canal tour boat will slow down so that you can actually see seven bridges lined up. Bruce Keller took this photo at just the right moment, on a recent, beautiful clear day. PICTURESQUE DUTCH CITY'S CHARACTER IS BUILT ALONG ITS UNIQUE, BEAUTIFUL CANALS Amsterdam tourists and locals alike enjoy an outing on the city's famous canals, here on a mostly sunny day. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Amsterdam's buildings range from historic and quaint to contemporary, such as Bimhuis, a music and concert venue with a docket featuring jazz. AMSTERDAM'S CANALS are as much a part of its culture as its famous tulips, cheeses, smoke houses, clogs and red light district. These intricate passages may even trump all those other familiar components of Dutch culture. To visit Amsterdam and not take a canal ride is unthinkable. So get yourself down to the water, for an afternoon canal cruise, then perhaps a dinner cruise to enjoy the city's lovely lights. One cannot have too many canal rides. It's just not possible. And if the weather's right -- warm but not too sunny -- there's no better eye candy in Europe then along Amsterdam's picturesque canals. THE BUSTLING capital of the Netherlands has more than 100 kilometers of grachten or canals within the city. These are part of an intricate network of 90 islands and 1,500 bridges. The three main canals were dug in the 17th century during the Dutch Golden Age. They form concentric belts around the city, known as the Grachtengordel. We enjoyed the views alongside the main canals, which number more than 1,550 monumental edifices. Among these is the city's Bimhuis, a striking dark box-like music venue which features jazz and a wide-ranging docket of folk music and classical cello and string quartet concerts -- with much in between those art forms. Cookie and Keller on the canals of Amsterdam. WE FIND the canals so interesting that we took several boat trips during our recent four-day return. Not only are canal rides relaxing and informative, but being on the water really slows one down. And there's so much to see on the canals of Amsterdam. Bruce Keller enjoys the sun and views passing in a boat under one of the city's 1,500 bridges. Lively city's highlights , click here On land, we'd tried to see the city's famous "Seven Bridges," which a guide told us could be viewed from one vantage point. This is true, but that viewing "window" is on water -- not land. That's why tour boats all slow down there. Keller was able to capture all seven bridges lined up (see top main photo). A wondrous sight and we were lucky to finally get the shot on a clear, sunny day. On other attempts, the weather was cloudy and it was difficult to see the expanse to the further bridges. We returned for an evening cruise to see the bridges illuminated. That is truly a magical, romantic sight. WE ALWAYS enjoy tour commentary. Here we learned: city was founded around 1250 with the building of the "Aeme Stelle Redamme." That's Medieval Dutch for "Dam in a Watery Area," an understatement. A canal ride points out sights and offers an opportunity to relax and enjoy sunshine. Remembering John, Yoko's visit The Dam is still the city's heart. But today this former barrier between the River Amstel and the “Southern Sea” is one of the few places in the center of town that you cannot sail a boat to. The last part of the river leading to the dam fell victim to land-traffic in 1922. The street that replaced it called "Damrak," meaning “Last section of the river, leading to the Dam.” Today, a subway line is being built in the old riverbed. Amsterdam's canals are home to tour boats and house boats . TO NAVIGATE this beautiful city efficiently and economically, we recommend the "iamsterdam city card" which saved us more than 75 euros at a variety of attractions and on the city's fine public transport system. We didn't begin to touch the range of 70-plus museums, but did enjoy Rembrandt's house, the world class Maritime Museum and Anne Frank family's tiny upstairs apartment where two families bravely hid from the Nazis until they were outed just before the end of World War II. The world famous Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum along with the Frank house which its young Jewish diarist made famous are "must see" stops. DURING THE Middle Ages, Amsterdam's canals served two purposes. They were essential to water management, but they were also used for defense. Imposing moats were build inside the walls but eventually lost that function. Their new purpose was to transport merchandise. The warehouses along the old moats stored huge quantities of trading good. The enterprising Dutch learned how to move them through those moat-canals to a harbor of ships that sailed all over the world. Young and old ride bikes in Amsterdam where that popular transport is a way of life. Besides seven lined up bridges, Amsterdam's famous "Seven Sisters" are striking "leaning" buildings on the Amstel. OUR GUIDES also noted the city's famous coffee shops and smoke houses, with their offerings of cannabis products and pastries. He nodded to many historic buildings and the city's Red Light District. Something for everyone in Amsterdam Canal tours also ground you in the city's neighborhoods, suggesting stopping off points for every taste. So we returned on foot to explore that famous Red Light District, and shop for the country's fine cheeses and pastries. Cannabis is legal in Amsterdam, but must be purchased from a certified shop. We passed this time, but on previous trips sampled wares in cookie form. THE AMSTERDAM city card offers admission to many attractive locales in the region, including lively Zaanse Schans, with its charming traditional houses and windmills in an open-air museum village setting. We also visited a famous historical maritime museum, Zuiderzee, the Frans Hals Museum and hope to next time visit "New Land," the newest province of the country with fashion outlets. Amsterdam is a wonderful city to "cruise" through with the canals bringing an intimate look at life on the water. More information on a canal cruise or to purchase the fine city card: iamsterdam.com/citycard iamsterdam.com/en/tickets/i-amsterdam-city-card viator.com/tours/amsterdam From left, Omri Schein, Brian Mackey, Angela Chatelain Avila and John Wells III. Michael Louis Cusimano rounds out the talented five-person "Baskerville" cast. BEST BET: Prepare to laugh long and loudly at Lamb's Players Theatre when you book tickets for "Baskerville," just across the bridge from San Diego in Coronado. The fast-paced, 90-minute comedy puts a fresh, funny spin on Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s “The Hound of the Baskervilles.” Five gifted actors have riotous fun playing 39 characters in this affectionate parody of the intricate plot lines and eccentric characters that mark the Sherlock Holmes oeuvre. It's an inventive, engaging romp for lovers of theater and fans of those engaging Sherlock stories. The quintet of versatile, veteran actors has as much fun as the audience. For tickets: 619 437-6000 lambsplayers.org The run extends through Nov. 20. Artist and graphic designer Celeste Barnett shows off one of her artful creations, fashioned from an abandoned auto. UP NEXT: An enterprising Montana woman has created an unusual business that grew from an interest in abandoned cars and other discarded items. "Bonepile Bling" is the creation of Celeste Barnett, who grew up in the Livingston, Montana, area and has followed her father's welding interest and her husband's passion for old cars. Her artful creations are made in her garage shop between Absarokee and Fishtail, and include jewelry, ornaments, art pieces and a range of other inventive products. We visit her studio and share some of her work and ideas. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, music, theater, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the links and stories with like minded friends, travelers and fellow arts minded people.
- Spiritus: splendid psychedelic immersion in famous Portuguese chapel
Clerigos Church and its magnificent cathedral host a light-filled wondrous show, "Spiritus." Gorgeous lights highlight windows and offer nature imagery and accentuate the church's large windows and baroque architecture. STEP INSIDE A WORLD OF WONDER, WITH PORTUGAL LIGHT AND SOUND SHOW STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PREPARE TO immerse your senses as you simultaneously celebrate an architectural wonder. This unique opportunity unfolds in a stunning show in an historic Portuguese church, Clerigos. In its sanctuary, "Spiritus" -- an inventive light and sound show -- examines with imagination the connection between man, nature and the heavens. Clerigos Tower aglow at night, a proud Porto landmark. We hurried from a city walking tour as dusk fell, to the lovely Baroque church in the city of Porto. Our "compass" was Clerigos Church with its impressive 75-meter-tall bell tower, the Torre dos Clérigos. As we hurried several blocks from our bus to the show, we could see the tower getting closer. It was fun to observe it from various vantage points and as evening fell and muted clouds blanketed the city. The immense Torre dos Clérigos towers over its surroundings and is a central point on virtually all views of historic Porto. The baroque tower was designed by Italian artist and architect Nicolau Nasoni in the mid-eighteenth century. Famous Clergios Church and Tower are worth a visit. Nasoni lived and worked in Porto for fifty years, designing many beautiful structures in Porto and throughout the north of Portugal. He was a busy man, also creating the loggia on the Porto Cathedral, the Episcopal Palace, Palace of São João Novo, and the Palace of Freixo, all proud landmarks of Porto. As we turned corners and navigated narrow streets and alleys, the tower remained nearly always in view. No wonder it was placed where it is -- on a high point in the city where all eyes are drawn to its magnificence. The small but fascinating museum at Clerigos is enjoyed by Cookie with insights from a docent. The interior of Clerigos Church Clérigos Museum exhibits a collection of sacred art and liturgical objects dating from the 13th to the 20th century. WE HAD tickets in hand -- an advantage in moving through a line at the box office and toward the entrance of this popular production. The queue was long but moved quickly with visitors from around the world. People were quiet and respectful as we entered the cathedral to take our seats. Then a young man with a sonorous voice gave a brief introduction to what we were about to behold. He explained that the innovative multimedia show would "transcend the walls" and promised a spiritual and emotional journey in this lovely and much loved Baroque church. Then the lights dimmed and a wonderous light show appeared. Spiritus is an audiovisual experience, pairing light, music, and architecture in the heart of the church. Created by OCUBO, an internationally known Portuguese art studio, the experience uses its religious location to carry the spectator on a spiritual and emotional journey. The work is inspired by the poem “In the end, the best way to travel is to feel,” by Álvaro de Campos, respected Portuguese poet. One need not be religious to appreciate the splendor. CLERIGOS was built in 1753 and has been a national monument since 1910, much loved by the people of the city. It inspired the urbanization of the city, and is a landmark of the town. It was begun at the request of the Brotherhood of Clerics, with architect Nasoni commissioned to design a bell tower to dominate Porto's landscape. The Clerigos light show, "Spiritus," moves many deeply. It was completed 10 years later, in July of 1763, with the placing of the iron cross on the top, and the image of St. Paul in the niche above the door, its construction was finished. Since 2014, the Church, Tower and House of the Brotherhood are a museum. Do make time to visit it when you book the show. It is small -- just a few rooms -- but filled with antique furniture, sacred art and centuries old liturgical objects Families and couples regularly make a pilgrimage to the tower, climbing the 225 steps to the top. The show and museum add dimension and can also be enjoyed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year's Eve and New Year's Day, too. www.visitporto.travel . www.portocvb.com www.citypasses.eu/en/citytrip-porto/porto-card/ www.porto.travel/clerigos-tower www.torredosclerigos.pt www.porto.travel spiritusporto.com rto.travel › clerigos-tower J efferson McDonald, Matthew McGloin are a hit in Northcoast Rep's "Two Pianos, Four Hands." BEST BET: "2 Pianos, 4 Hands" is a “must see” at Northcoast Repertory Theatre in Solana Beach, Calif. It’s a dazzling love letter to the world's most versatile and difficult instrument. Two gifted musicians deliver classical war horses laced with comedy and pathos. Part slapstick, part highbrow, the show features Jefferson McDonald and Matthew McGloin whose flawless technique was honed in years of study. While their artistry amazes, the show's physical humor and impersonations make it more than a mere concert. Themes honor the hard work a classical career demands, conflicts with parents and coaches, and the challenges of devoting one's life to a passion. In the style of Victor Borge and Anna Russell, the actors weave parody and slapstick with flawless Liszt, Chopin, Beethoven, Bach and Mozart -- with tuneful nods to Rodgers and Hart, Dave Brubeck and Billy Joel. This perfect pitch production hits the high notes while tickling the funny bone -- all on a pair of 88s, through Jan. 1. Tickets at: northcoastrep.org ; 858 481-1055. A colorfully clad Martinique woman prepares a holiday cocktail for us on New Year's Day. Fresh fruit -- delicious! UP NEXT : Holiday time is in full swing as a New Year approaches. We find holidays make a lively time to explore new places, holding old habits dear while making room for new traditions. We'll share favorite places and activities for celebrating the flip of the calendar to 2023. We have a suggestion for our readers, too: How about making a resolution to travel, shake up your routine, broaden your worldly experience, take the trip you've long wanted, make new friends on another continent? Come along, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more at: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the links and consider "following" us officially. It helps our ratings.
- Vegas food tasting tours offer a royal flush of fun, history, yummy bites
A Taste Buzz Food Tour of the Arts District in Las Vegas offered a fun outing for Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. Consider Taste Buzz for a refreshing break from gambling. A happy group of foodies posed in the arts district of Las Vegas on a delightful food tour. TASTE BUZZ FOOD TOURS GIVES A SAMPING OF VEGAS OFF THE BEATEN PATH -- OR ON IT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Soulbelly BBQ offers tasty barbecue, craft beer and live music in an attractive space. IF YOU LOVE Las Vegas -- (count me in) but need an occasional break from the casinos, gambling and glitter, here's a winner of a tour. Taste Buzz Food Tours offers three unique tasting tours in Las Vegas and we highly recommend this lively, thoughtful trio of options. We opted for the Arts District tour, to get us off the Strip which we love but know well, so were happy to find something different. We picked a winner with the arts tour which took us to a unique, unexplored part of the city. We learned so much about this area new to us, between the famous Strip and older downtown. If you think Las Vegas is only a place to lose money and see great shows, here's another option for your next foray to Sin City: a food & art tour. We felt like locals as we prowled the streets, stopping at a popular wedding chapel, neighborhood bar and several small, high quality galleries. Our touring was divided into four tasty samplings -- appetizers to desserts. OUR FIRST "bite" was a delicious empanada with zingy homemade salsa and a fresh, flavorful ceviche at Misterio Mezcal. Then strolling past vintage shops, we admired murals and cottages from the 1920s and '30s, some reconfigured as attractive galleries and shops. Our spirited guide April described the area as "the real Las Vegas -- an up and coming local neighborhood." It felt very much like that -- a neighborhood coming into its own, adapting to changing times and trends. Empanadas and ceviche at Misterio Mezcal delighted our hungry Taste Buzz group. Our insiders' look took us past small businesses, coffee shops, cafes, breweries, barbecue and other specialty restaurants and the city's oldest bakery, Freed's, a much loved institution since 1959. It's famous for its pastries, cookies and elaborate wedding cakes. The Vegas food scene seems to be exploding, and our tour confirmed that. We sampled fabulous barbecue at SoulBelly and pizza better than that we've sampled in Naples at Good Pie Pizza. We walked that off with a stroll past the inventive Majestic Repertory Theater, a proud cornerstone of ALIOS, the arts district. The theater was named for an early 1900s Vaudeville house. Fun to learn this history. WE REALLY did feel like Vegas locals as April guided us past bright murals, antique and coffee shops and funky bars, chatting and informing as we walked. The two other Taste Buzz tours offer the same variety and fun activities as our arts tour -- a blend of sights, history and tastings. One of the other two focuses on Freemont Street and the old Vegas, the other on the newer and more flashy Strip. Each of the three Taste Buzz tours offers four to six local tastes, all at favorite, highly rated eateries endorsed by loyal locals as well as tourists. This gallery offered lovely pottery and wall hangings for sale and to admire between tastes. TASTE BUZZ has created a successful, highly rated mix of food stops, top attractions and insight into cultural landmarks that make Vegas unique. Bruce Keller pauses at a favorite neighborhood bar, Silver Stamp. A beautiful mural is one of many eye-catching attractions on a walking foodie tour in Vegas. We learned many fun facts and interesting Vegas history. At tour's end, we truly felt we'd experienced local culture through art, food and history. Our cheerful and knowledgeable guide was a delight, lingering at the end to share personal recommendations for more places to eat, drink, and play during our stay. Going off the Strip for a few tasty hours offered a wonderful trip down Memory Lane with the latest trends in culinary delights. Taste Buzz offers a trio of top food tours, not to be missed next time you're in Sin City. More information or to book: www.tastebuzzvegas.com Keller and Cookie braved the cool and found sunshine on world famous Santa Monica Pier on a recent fun trip with Hollywood Bus Tours. COMING UP: We're always on the lookout for the off-beat, the "undiscovered." So on a recent theater jaunt in Los Angeles, we hooked up with Hollywood Bus Tours. What a fun day. We spent a delightful afternoon in a small bus with a lively international group of fellow travelers. We visited famous attractions -- from Santa Monica Pier to Griffith Observatory. We cruised past stars' homes and hangouts, well known hotels and restaurants and family attractions including the popular Farmer's Market. Join us, remembering to take time to explore, learn and live. Visit us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link and we'd love to have you officially "follow" by signing up right here at the website.
- Valenca offers charms of Portuguese village near Spanish border
Valenca, in the far north of Portugal, offers a relaxing, artistic place to visit for a few days. Sturdy, stunning buildings date back to the 13th Century, upgraded in the 17th Century. HISTORY, COLOR, MONUMENTS, SHOPS, CHURCHES, GRACIOUS PEOPLE AND TASTY FARE MARK VISIT TO PORTUGAL'S NORTH Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers above Valenca. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER VALENCA IS about as far north in Portugal that a traveler can go. Like many European towns, it was inhabited more than 300,000 years ago by the homo heidelbergensis, the first early humans to survive in colder climate. Its more recent history is still impressive, dating back centuries. Monuments on many corners tell of Valenca's history. Among the many who occupied Portugal, the Romans stand out because they occupied the land for more than 700 years, from the 3rd century BC to the 4th century AD. As they did wherever they explored, these enterprising travelers built cities, established civil government, fished and farmed the land, and connected settlements with a network of roads. In Portugal, they built above the Minho River which they crossed while traveling from Brago to Tui on the Spanish side, as early as the second century BC. Colorful fabrics are sold in Valenca's main streets and back roads -- aprons to tea towels and throws . AS ONE of the oldest countries in Europe, Portugal boasts a colorful history. Besides the Roman Empire, it was home to Iberian tribes, Celtic peoples, Germanic kingdoms, Muslim invaders and the consequent Christian Reconquista, and finally, the Exploration of the World. Portugal's Jewish community has a proud cultural and religious legacy dating back to antiquity. WE FOUND colorful Valenca a metaphor for Portugal itself. Beautiful streets and monuments, clean and welcoming parks and gardens, polite and gracious people, tasty simple fare and good local beer and wine. . Valenca is a little known stop to foreigners but has a proud history. The town is often confused with Valencia, Spain, by Americans and others outside Europe. That much larger Spanish city, however, is nine hours or 950 kilometers to the southeast. WE EXPLORED Valenca from our ship, docked at the nearby port of Vigo in Spain. We bought a tour package, but if one wants to go explore on one's own, it's only a $14 bus trip. Or take a train for a few dollars more. Remnants of Valenca's strong defense remain, as Keller illustrates with a canon. The streets of Valenca hold small squares, churches and mansions which held off invaders, even to the 19th Century. The short scenic drive makes it one of the few places in Europe where cruise passengers can easily visit two countries in a half-hour's time. THE MINHO River flows 210 miles through the northwestern extent of Spain, and marks Spain's border with Portugal for part of that distance. This border has been contentious for thousands of years, and today it's difficult to walk in this area without bumping into a star fort, a place where the enemy can be fired upon the entire length of the fortress wall, to the far bastion. This makes it difficult for attackers to find shelter outside the fort walls and from above, looks like points of a star. A Frida Kahlo pillow for a sister in Montana was a happy purchase from these Valenca artists. ONCE THE ROMANS left the area, the mix of cultures that became modern Europe galloped in: Arabs to Vikings were part of the mix -- people escaping persecution or poverty, or just looking for new horizons. Portuguese King Sancho I (1154-1211) earned the sobriquet "The Populator" by bringing Christians to northern Portugal in the 12th century. This squeezed out the aggressive Moors, who had conquered virtually all of the Iberian Peninsula by the 8th century. THE MOORS left beautiful architecture -- including exquisite tiles and mosaics -- and shaped the region's religion, cuisine, music and language. All this can be felt in Valenca -- though not to the degree of more southerly towns. We found Valenca a lovely place with some of the most pleasant people we've met on the road. Get ready for your close up soon when we venture to Paramount Studios in Los Angeles, through its famous gates and onto the lots. UP NEXT: We're taking readers on a star-studded tour of Paramount Studios so get ready for your close-up. The studio has produced some of the most famous films -- from "Forest Gump" to "Top Gun" and many time honored classics. Then on to Santa Barbara's beautiful Maritime Museum. And more food, glorious food as we take a bite of Mexican cuisine -- best seafood around -- with "AvoCabo Food Tours." Meanwhile, we urge readers to follow their dreams -- remembering to explore, learn and live. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com
- Paramount Pictures: Get ready for your close up at Hollywood studio
The famous gate to Paramount Pictures has been used in many films, including "Sunset Boulevard" which tells the story of a fading star and her struggle to endure in the pictures. ENJOY A CENTURY OF MOVIE LORE AT HOLLYWOOD'S MOST FAMOUS STUDIO Ready for their close-up, "Keller and Cookie" share an Oscar moment. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE HAD so much fun playing tourist at Paramount Pictures. We sat on Forest Gump's famous bench, admired a larger than life and ever endearing Shrek, watched an intriguing film clip on the studio's history and drove past sets of a dozen huge box office hits. The studio is Hollywood's most famous, home to eccentric directors such as Alfred Hitchcock, who had a lavish apartment on the lot and blocked the window with a bookcase so he couldn't be spied upon. Paramount also was home to scores of stars from film's golden age and remains home for many of today's stars. Bruce Keller rests on Forest Gump's bench. "Where's my box of chocolates?" he wondered. The tour stops at several iconic movie sets and a large house of props. George Burns and Gracie Allen called Paramount home and dozens of other greats did, too. Lucy sold Desilu to Paramount for $17 million and is known on the lot for developing a school for young actors there, including her own children. WE KNEW the references to Gary Cooper, Claudette Colbert, Groucho Marx, Marlene Dietrich and Frederic March, while the younger members of our 10-person tour looked puzzled at the mention of those cinematic heroes. They knew Tom Hanks and Tom Cruise of course, and famous Paramount box office smashes: "The Godfather" (both the original and part two), "Titanic," the "Shrek" and "Transformers" films, "Grease," "The Wolf of Wall Street," and the controversial "Romeo and Juliet," whose now aging stars have recently launched law suits claiming they didn't consent to the nearly-nude scenes. Takers of the Paramount tour can see what's on the lot each day. PARAMOUNT is known for riding the talkie boom to unprecedented heights, reaping industry-record profits of $18.4 million in 1930 (and out-earning all of the other majors), only to suffer financial collapse a year later under the weight of oversized budgets, the costly conversion to sound, and the massive debt service associated with its huge theater chain. After net losses of $21 million in 1932—another industry record—Paramount declared bankruptcy in early 1933. The financial turmoil led to a massive executive shake-up but Paramount survived and made a come back in the WWII years. A New York City set gets a lot of use, with its familiar yellow taxis. Here, tour takers are allowed to pose. The "Transformer" films were a huge hit for Paramount. Here, Cookie stops at one of the transformers. The $25 billion success story includes 15 films, video games, sound tracks and more. WHAT IMPRESSES the tourist first is the enormity of Paramount. The original studio was 26 acres and four stages. Paramount has grown to 65 acres over the years with 30 sound stages range from 5,500 to 18,775 square feet and capable of handling large projects. "Beam us up, Scotty," say Cookie and Keller in the "Star Trek" set. Nickelodeon and Miramax have ties to Paramount,, and you'll see posters of celebrated films, popular TV shows and commercials. Today, Paramount partners with projects large and small in a ceaseless effort to create celebrated movies, television shows, and commercials. The studio lot is hallowed ground for "Star Trek" fans, and posters abound of Leonard Nimoy and William Shatner. "Dr. Phil" is recorded on Paramount's Stage 29 and is the longest running regularly scheduled TV show in Hollywood. Paramount's net worth as of January of this year is $1.27 billion, so the studio is looking good financially. Tours are $63 for two hours, and $199 for a special VIP "Insider" look with a gourmet meal on location. Paramountstudiotour.com 323 956-1777. Santa Barbara's Maritime Museum earns its stellar reputation with a wealth of attractive, informative exhibits. NEXT UP: T he Santa Barbara Maritime Museum is a treasure trove of maritime history with colorful, beautifully curated exhibits, rare artifacts and a lively calendar of events welcoming sea loving guests and members. Take a look at the museum which weaves a thoughtful collection of displays to illustrate man's connection to the sea. Set your sails with us for a memorable visit, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, family, the arts and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com














