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  • Queen Elizabeth's world tour includes Long Beach visit to her auntie

    Queen Elizabeth's pool is spacious and inviting, but understated in its artful touches. A stunning marquetry panel invites inspection as one enters Cunard' Queen Elizabeth. OLD WORLD ELEGANCE LIVES ON IN CUNARD'S THIRD 'ELIZABETH' STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Glittering chandeliers, beautiful wood,marble and tapestries adorn Queen Elizabeth's ballroom. TO BUY 'LILIAN'S LAST DANCE' THE NOVEL CLICK HERE WHEN THE QE2 retired, I was one sad girl. I'd crossed the Atlantic eight times on her, cruised the Norwegian fjords on her, interviewed celebrities on her. I have cherished, romantic memories of dancing in her hallowed ballroom with both of my late husbands. The latest Queen Elizabeth is the third to bear the royal name -- christened by Her Majesty The Queen in October of 2010. We recently stepped aboard her to revive old memories and create new ones. Though Cunard considers her Queen Mary its flag ship and the closest in design to the old-fashioned liners, Queen Elizabeth bears many of the familiar "liner" touches. From its world class floating library (more than 6,000 books from which to choose), to her legendary "Queen's Grill" service, to elegant commissioned artwork and private boxes in the theater, the Queen offers contemporary luxury with a nod to the past for its 2,000-plus passengers. Artist Arnold Schwartzman poses by one of two beautiful art deco murals he created in the grand lobby of the Queen Elizabeth. "UNDERSTATEMENT" best describes the major difference between other large ships and Queen Elizabeth. You won't see glitz, flash and color. You will see dark polished wood, muted light, chandeliers, marble, classy artwork reminiscent of the Orient Express rail days, paintings and panels commissioned by Cunard using award winning artists. OLD-FASHIONED glamour is the byword on QE. Art Deco inspired design invites comparison to the original Cunard queens -- Elizabeth and Mary, the first of which perished in a fire, the latter much revered and often visited in Long Beach. QM welcomed her "niece" earlier this month, the reason for our invitation to tour Queen Elizabeth. WITH QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 docked in Dubai now -- future unknown -- and the original QE gone, I invoked the cruise muse on a recent tour of the third QE, known simply as Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth's lounges and quiet spaces recall long-ago liner travel. This "queenly" ship in 2015 recalls cruising of 75 years ago, when travelers packed steamer trunks and dressed in black tie for dinner, strolling the promenade deck with a pause for sherry or a cognac. There's a "prom" on Queen Elizabeth, and old-fashioned deck chairs with blankets nearby, to take the chill off a bracing Atlantic crossing. MOST of today's cruise ships -- emphasis of "cruise" -- are not intended to be "liners," although the distinction has blurred. Click the link below to: Jump to Cookie on theater, books and the arts at: Lilianslastdance.com Queen Mary's amiable Commodore Everette Hoard explained that grand liners were built for speed, durability and all-weather crossings, while today's cruise ships make specific circuits of "vacation" spots, often starting and finishing in the same location. Cunard's three queens still cross the Atlantic regularly, as did their ancestors. Queen Elizabeth's captain posed aboard Queen Mary. His ship is behind him and his colleague. Like the liners of old, today's Cunard queens accentuate elegance with the class and dignity of yore. You'll find harp music rather than a rollicking disco, and string quartets in the subdued public areas, not high-tech nightclubs catering to all-night partying. No poolside belly-flop contests, but a romantic dinner under a chandelier with five-star service from a white-gloved waiter. IF YOU don't care to don black tie, you can dine in one of the casual restaurants, but our Cunard tour guide emphasized that Elizabeth's passengers want glamour and dress-up. They like ballroom dancing, lawn bowls and afternoon tea, thank you. A bronze of Queen Elizabeth is among memorabilia on QE. Although Cunard is American-owned, you'll feel close to the United Kingdom as you order your hamper from Fortnum and Mason, stroll Harris Tweed for sale and enjoy a cocktail in the sunlit Garden Lounge inspired by the famous glass houses of London't Kew Gardens. ELEGANT MARBLE -- cream and chocolate -- blends with polished wood in public spaces. Beauty awaits at every turn -- in intricate wooden marquetry and maritime themed paintings. Happily, Cunard is a seafaring packrat. The framed memorabilia delights: a Christmas card from Queen Elizabeth II in a glass case, a solid silver model of QE2 made by the famed London jeweller Asprey, the bell salvaged from the first Queen Elizabeth. The kakapo of New Zealand is up next. COMING UP: New Zealand's birds are a wondrous lot. From the gorgeous green kakapo, a flightless parrot, to the kotuku, a sleek white heron, we'll take you to both islands, from Milford Sound to the southern tip, for birds of a Kiwi feather. Visit us here at www.whereiscookie on Wednesdays for travel, cruising, adventure, and nature-driven trips. Check out www.lilianslastdance on weekends for the arts, with features on theater, books and our new novel, "Lilian's Last Dance." Remember always to explore, learn and live!

  • Israel, Egypt and Middle East enticement

    Morning sun lights up the port of Alexandria, Egypt. -- Photo by Bruce Keller Just a note to let you know that our Middle East feature is available for viewing -- Cookie's story and Keller's fabulous photos. Please enjoy (click the link below or copy and paste into your browser). And please remember to sign up for our posts, which include our travels both internationally and locally with lots of good stuff on nature, theater, art, film and "Downton Abbey." The information is at: whereiscookie.com Sign up if you'd like to get our newsletters. It's briefly a bit cumbersome but a couple of quick steps secure your privacy! Coming soon: communing with the migrating grey whales and San Diego's fertile theater scene and its Broadway connections. Here's the link on the Middle East newspaper feature: http://billingsgazette.com/lifestyles/leisure/visit-to-middle-east-finds-people-wanting-to-live-and/article_3f6c1690-1c70-588d-b676-f2f787117f01.html

  • Violence in Egypt concerns travelers to this wondrous place

    Throughout Egypt, handsome and friendly children greeted American visitors who wonder if they are safe now. Friendship with brilliant guide, encounters with children, foster worry for their safety Adept as a guide and translator, Amr took the photographer and writer through Egypt, proudly sharing his country's wonders. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AS NEWS of bloodshed in Cairo commands our attention this week, we wonder about our friend Amr. We met this talented, multi-lingual guide and translator last autumn during a memorable and magical trip to his native Egypt and the Middle East. We spent only a few days with him, but we became fast friends. He won our affection and admiration with his diplomacy, talent and bravery. He sheperded us through lanes of daunting traffic -- including buses, cars and donkey carts -- from Alexandria up to Cairo, directing our faithful bus driver and working comfortably with our group of 20-some tourists, a security guard Cookie and Keller were safe with Amr; here they enjoy Giza's splendors. who accompanied us on our journey, and many museum, gallery, hotel and restaurant operators. AMR GUIDED us through mosques, where we carefully removed our shoes, and through ancient sites to view wonders, always offering thoughtful reflections on the contributions of his country's rich culture to the world. Events of the "Arab Spring" had only recently unfolded and Amr was recovering from injuries in the demonstrations in Tahrir Square. As we drove past a huge prison a half-mile off the highway, he noted that deposed president Hosni Mubarak was housed in that very jail. "So what do you think of Mohammed Morsi?" we asked. Although, he was in power, he had not yet been The marvelous Egyptian Museum has more than 120,000 relics of the pharaohs, and King Tutankhamun's tomb treasures. elected President. Amr paused, collected his thoughts and explained that he was not a fan of the now ousted president. "He will be more of the same," he said with fervor. "We need change, idealism, someone to lead us to our new, free future and fulfillment of our potential." DURING OUR time with him, chatting in the famed Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Amr expressed his idealism that Egypt become a true democracy, that all Egyptians would be treated as equal with no regard for color, gender, belief. Amr expressed depression and anxiety as the election loomed. What does he think now? AMR SPOKE with affection of his wife, "an educated, contemporary woman," as we passed dozens of women in traditional head garb and veils. Not all Egyptian women wear full body coverings, or burkas. Amr is among the educated, young idealists involved in the original demonstration near Cairo's Tahrir Square. He is also a father of two youngsters. He is reluctant to align himself with any group, to subscribe to either the Muslim Brotherhood or the old regime. He deplores violence. Extremism in any direction, he believes, is not a good option. Amr professed confusion about what the U.S. wants for Egypt, the "mixed signals" he feels we are sending. I would hope he would be sympathetic to America now, as we are faulted by all sides as the complex events unfold. Shopkeepers and vendors struggle in Cairo to make ends meet. FOR CERTAIN, the recent military crackdown and bloodshed would disturb him. We wonder what his reaction is to President Obama's pleas for the government to back off. Surely he would commend Obama's condemnation of the murder of civilians. And he would remind us how difficult life has become for the average common man, trying to earn a living selling fruit juice or peppers. As Amr chatted with guides and shopkeepers, we saw a true work ethic, a yearning to make life better. One of many Cairo mosques. AMR KNOWS transition will take time. He shook his head sadly as he described the decline of "civilized life" in his country. It could not be denied, with the mounds of garbage and wrecked cars, the crush of people and signs of poverty everywhere. Still, the children smiled, were curious and spoke animated English to us. Time will tell Egypt's future. Hosni Mubarak was in power more than 30 years, and his philosophies were deeply imbedded. A transition to full democracy may take a decade or more. The discontent felt by Amr and many of his fellow Egyptians has to be acute -- even those who supported Morsi must be disappointed that he was not able to accomplish altruistic goals. We wonder if Amr is safe. He was injured in the first rebellion two years ago. His goals are shared by thousands of other young, educated Egyptians: The Nile River: thoroughfare for tourist, commerce and recreational vehicles. *That Egypt develop a democratic procedure for selecting leaders. *That citizens' rights under the law be respected and protected. *That social justice be upheld. Amr's criticism of the Brotherhood stems from his belief that now ousted President Morsi would not represent a departure from the corruption and repression of his predecessor. The recent violence is a reminder of the schisms in Egyptian society. There is great distrust of the Brotherhood. There are pro-Morsi supporters. The military. Police. Secret service. There will likely be backlashes after the protests. Surely Amr and his friends thought the military would help them, turn things around, as they did when Mubarak was ousted. A whirling dervish entertains, on a Nile dinner cruise with guide Amr. Now, the hugely powerful military is responsible for hundreds of deaths. Thousands more are wounded. The instability is bad globally and has a hugely negative effect on tourism in the land of ancient wonders. How sad is the carnage near the great pyramids of Giza, and in the very square where we lunched with Amr. We all wonder: will there be another election? Democracy seems to have been crushed.What will become of the Brotherhood and Al Quida, which seem to be enemies? Does this spell an end to the attempt for a free society? What will the ramifications be in Syria? Where are the ideological commitments on which democracy is based? Animated discussion follows an accident on a busy Cairo street. What effect will the military's actions have to do on the country's embattled economy? EGYPTIANS were beleaguered when we visited last fall, aware that the country's infrastructure was collapsing. Now they are mourning, burying their dead. Please the gods, may our smart, sweet, talented Amr, not be among the casualties. Flowers abloom in Montana. COMING SOON: We return to Montana for flower power under the Big Sky. The Treasure State is abloom, in one of the lushest floral summers our reporter can recall. And this Saturday, we visit the San Diego concert venue of Humphreys By the Bay. Humphreys has it all: gorgeous oceanside setting, tremendous talent, wonderful sound and lights, a terrific bar. Already this summer, Humphreys has hosted superstars of every persuasion, from Lyle Lovett, Bill Cosby and Bill Maher, to Willie Nelson, Garrison Keillor, Joan Rivers and Cyndi Lauper. It's not too late to take in Melissa Etheridge, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Diana Krall and others. More next week. Explore, learn and live, and check us out on Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Journey to Jerusalem: Historic city yields wonder, emotion, spectacle

    THREE MAJOR WORLD RELIGIONS LIVE MEANINGFUL LIVES IN HISTORIC ISRAELI CITY Cookie takes a moment to meditate and give thanks for her return to a favorite city at the Western Wall, Jerusalem. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS The Dome of the Rock , sacred Muslim shrine, circa 685, offers gorgeous mosaics and is an Islamic architectural monument. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NO CITY on the planet makes such an emotional impact on so many people. Jerusalem, the proud capital of Israel, sits handsomely atop a plateau in the Judean Mountains between the Mediterranean and the Dead Sea. It has survived centuries of upheaval, invasion, plunder and celebration. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre figures prominently in the Easter week remembrances when thousands visit. It remains one of the most beautiful, cohesive and oldest cities in the world, considered holy to the three major Abrahamic religions—Judaism, Christianity and Islam. WE WERE struck by the beautiful light -- and the peaceful nature of the people. Although it is a bustling, busy city, Jerusalem has an underlying feeling of reverence. Within a mile, we visited the historic Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock and the Western Wall, all iconic, historic sites crucial to understanding the major world religions which share this diverse city and revere its sacred past. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the site of Christ's tomb, is sacred to believers. Israel's eight million people live in an area a bit smaller than New Jersey. About 840,000 people call Jerusalem home, with Jews comprising about 61 per cent, Muslims about 35 per cent, Christians and other faiths the remaining four per cent. The spectacular Dome of the Rock against the Jerusalem skyline. Cookie lights a candle for departed loved ones in Jerusalem. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been preserved for centuries. EASTER TIME in Jerusalem is a wondrous spectacle for all faiths. Many Christian rituals have roots in Jewish traditions. The celebration of the Jewish festival of Passover, for example, commemorates the exodus of Jews from captivity in Egypt. Passover has been mixed with Easter for centuries. The Hebrew word Pesach, originally meaning Passover, came to mean Easter as well. Holy Week and Easter in Jerusalem mingle as members of both faiths celebrate their rich cultures. The magnificent Dome of the Rock is also a visitor's must. This stunning 7th-century Jerusalem edifice enshrines the rock from which Muḥammad is said to have ascended to heaven. A journey to Masada in the Judean desert is a great day trip from Jerusalem. The rugged natural fortress is a symbol of Jewish bravery and tenacity. It overlooks the Dead Sea. In Jerusalem AS LENT draws to a close, native sons and daughters might avoid Jerusalem. They may celebrate their heritage at Masada or Galilee, or even with a float in the Dead Sea. But many Christians consider an Easter visit to Jerusalem a priority on their bucket lists. THE SPECTACLE in Jerusalem is thrilling, as locals and pilgrims celebrate Holy Week in the Holy City. THE CULMINATION of course is Easter Sunday. Even for non-believers, celebrating the events of Jesus’ life at the sites where they occurred is moving. Easter Week began last Sunday with the celebration of Jesus’ entrance into Jerusalem, greeted by cheering throngs. Palm Sunday mass was celebrated at the monumental Church of the Holy Sepulchre with the palm procession following. Thousands of Christians from around the world joyfully marched from Bethphage, singing in many languages, down the western slope of the Mount of Olives across the Kidron valley and into the Old City. The next days were for praying and meditation. Yosh Wickman and Bruce Keller at the Dead Sea, another Israel site. THEN ON HOLY Thursday, the Mass of the Lord’s Supper was celebrated at the Holy Sepulchre followed by ceremony with the Franciscans on Mount Zion, and a meditative holy hour with the actor portraying Jesus, leading up to his arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane. A memorable candlelight procession followed to the church of St. Peter in Gallicantu where Jesus is said to have spent the night after his arrest. I always light candles for my departed loved ones. The colorful fabrics of Arab people attract the eye. The crucifixion marked Good Friday, followed by Easter Vigil and vespers, the climax of the week, in the Basilica of the Resurrection. ON EASTER Sunday, mass was again celebrated for throngs at 8 a.m. with a procession around Jesus’ tomb. Many pilgrims follow the Stations of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa. They also celebrate Christ’s funeral at the Sepulchre, an event unique to the Church of Jerusalem, reenacting the deposition of Christ’s body into the tomb. THERE IS so much to do and see in Israel! I've been lucky to make five visits, and I hope for another. The culture is rich and varied, the amalgam of people, history and architecture are thrilling. The people are warm, witty, proud and welcoming. The food is fabulous. The beauty of the villages and particularly glorious Jerusalem has an unforgettable staying power. Cookie's favorite tree, the jacaranda, was in bloom throughout a recent trip through Central America, Colombia and west Mexico. COMING UP: Speaking of beauty, the glorious purple jacaranda tree bloomed a path for us for nearly a month as we departed San Diego to visit seven countries south of us. Our recent transit of the Panama Canal segued to Central America with its variety and wonders. We also stopped in Puerto Vallarta, made famous in the early 1960s by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor during filming of "The Night of the Iguana." Sure, there are drugs. But the delights trump the fear, with fabulous food, adventurous people, and the glories of the natural world of birds, monkeys, trees and waterways. Remember to explore, learn and live and join us Wednesdays and weekends: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Holy Week in Jerusalem: Pilgrims flock to renovated tomb of Jesus

    Believer or not, it's easy to be moved by the religious history of the splendid city of Jerusalem. Here, Cookie pauses enroute to the Church of the Holy Seprelcre to see the now complete and laborious restoration of the tomb of Jesus. ANCIENT SACRED SITE GETS MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR FACELIFT TO USHER IN HOLY DAYS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Associated Press JUST IN TIME for Passover and Easter, a crack Greek restoration team unveiled an elaborate, high-tech renovation of the Jerusalem shrine housing the tomb where tradition says Jesus was buried and rose. Restoration complete, the church's famous tomb shines with new luster. Above left, the church may be approached through a colorful covered bazaar. The archaeologists, known for restoration work on historic Egyptian and Turkish sites, were laying the groundwork for the repairs on our last visit. The project has been on the boards since 1959. The shrine needed urgent attention after years of exposure to moisture, humidity and candle smoke. We spent two spring days in the city, known for its shrines, mosques and temples and the relics of a trio of major religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam. THE TOMB IS known as the Edicule, and rests within the Old City of Jerusalem in the Church of the Holy Seplulchre Cookie lights a candle near the tomb, honoring her departed. Above, the tomb shortly before our last visit. What struck us was that until recently, the tomb was so dingy and blackened. When next we visit, we are excited to witness the results of the painstaking transformation. The original ivory sheen of the marble has emerged -- the tomb is no longer dark and dingy but looks much as it did centuries ago. 21ST CENTURY techniques -- including radar and thermography -- were used to examine the tomb's supporting structure tomb and ground beneath. The experts, from the National Technical University of Athens, stripped the stone slabs from the shrine’s façade and patched internal masonry, injecting it with grout for reinforcement. Each stone was wiped clean of candle soot and pigeon droppings, then put back in place. Titanium bolts were added for reinforcement, and the shrine's frescos and painted dome were given a facelift. Above and below left, painstaking removal of grime restored each stone slab. Additional work is necessary to better stabilize the ground. The Greek conservators will be part of that effort, too, after it is approved by those who inhabit and use the church. It is still an active shrine -- and home to 50 monks, who insist that it be kept open for pilgrims. Since the fourth Century AD, the church has been a cemetery. Romans had built a temple there to honor Aphrodite and for centuries it was also a quarry. NOW GONE IS THE unsightly iron cage built around the shrine by British authorities in 1947 to shore up the walls. Gone are layers of soot from decades of pilgrims' candles. Vastly improved is the stability of the old shrine, which hadn’t been restored in more than 200 years. “If this repair hadn’t happened now, there could have been a collapse,” Bonnie Burnham of the World Monuments Fund said this week. “This is a complete transformation of the monument.” A PRIVATE DONATION provided an initial $1.4 million for the $4 million restoration. That gift came from the widow of Atlantic Records founder. Jordan’s King Abdullah II and Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas each chipped in 150,000 euros -- totaling $320,000. Church donations and other private gifts raised the rest. The limestone and marble Church of the Holy Sepulcher is among the world’s oldest churches — a 12th-century building on 4th-century remains. Three main Christian denominations jealously guard separate sections of the church, but put aside longstanding religious rivalries to approve the restoration. In 2015, Israeli police briefly shut down the building after Israel’s Antiquities Authority deemed it unsafe. Repairs finally began in earnest in June 2016. UP NEXT: Julian, California, in the spring is a gorgeous bounty of blooms and fragrance. Come with us to visit this charming mountain town not far from San Diego. From homemade apple pie to art, ice cream to friendly inns and B&Bs, Julian is a quaint, appealing town. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for the weekend. Right, daffodils are protected in Julian, California, where it is illegal to pick them. The town is famous for apples as well.

  • Tippet Rise: Philanthropists' love of landscape and the arts creates world class venue in Stillwater County

    This photograph was taken in the fall as one of the first large sculptural pieces was being installed. The piece is "Proverb," by Mark di Suvero . This June, July and August, concert goers will hear music indoors and around the sculptures. Tippet Rise MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR ARTS, MUSIC ENTERPRISE WELCOMES INTERNATIONAL ROSTER OF PLAYERS Editor's Note: Today we offer the first of a two-part piece on Tippet Rise Art Center, which opens for its summer season with a roster of world class concerts. Today, we look at the genesis, background and development of the multi-million dollar arts and nature project. Next Friday, we explore the programming, breadth, management and international scope of Tippet Rise. Tippet Rise landscape offers color in all four seasons, and provides backdrop for what Tippet Rise organizers call "music coming from the center of the earth." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Tippet Rise high atop the plateaus where sheep and cattle ranchers have long ground out a living, and native people fished and hunted centuries before, a brilliantly conceived center for the arts and music is open for its first season. Imagination, location and deep pockets are principal players in the new Tippet Rise Art Center near Fishtail, Montana. Peter and Cathy Halstead had a vision for a place that would break down barriers between art and nature. The finely tuned enterprise in the majestic Beartooth Mountains includes concert spaces for world class musicians, outdoor museum pieces with multi-million dollar commissions, and meticulous, "green" architecture with methods to make it an environmentalist’s dream. Big Sky Journal piece features Halsteads and Tippet Rise The 11,500-acre creation has been introducing itself to small groups for several months and began to officially welcome the public in June. AFTER SCOURING land in Hawaii and Colorado, Tippet Rise benefactors Peter and Cathy Halstead came upon the property they’d dreamed of. They fell in love with the Fishtail property, seeing its potential for a magnificent nature-driven “gallery” with indoor and outdoor concert spaces. Alban Bassuet shows off the Patrick Dougherty schoolhouse, Daydreams," which transcends boundaries between land art, sculpture, and architecture. Tippet Rise is the result, an innovative brain child of these two creative people with money to indulge their fantasies. Located on hills and valleys which inspired painter Isabelle Johnson, Tippet Rise – like its former inhabitant -- is an original. It encourages participation. Neither festival nor retreat, it incorporates elements of both. It is the Halsteads' personal homage to the arts, taking their philanthropy and love of the arts to a grand level in an inspiring setting. As creators and bankrollers of the non-profit Tippet Rise enterprise, the Halsteads opened heart, mind and check book, hiring cutting edge talent to shape their vision. Peter is an accomplished pianist with an enviable collection of Steinways many of which he has moved to the property. He dreamed of weaving classical music with landscape. Cathy, a painter with a fondness for grand sculptural pieces, shares Peter’s love of the outdoors. The two wanted their concert space to extend the landscape, to merge nature’s art with man’s creations. THEY COURTED internationally recognized acoustician, designer and venue planner Alban Bassuet. Naming the acclaimed Frenchman “executive director,” they charged him with bringing together performers, audiences, sculpture and musical pieces in a spectacular natural setting. An Isabelle Johnson painting of her family ranch. The land is now host to an acclaimed new art center. Bassuet supervises design, construction and programming, drawing from his “players” like a maestro rehearsing a premiere. He drives the property, confers with contractors and engineers, studies architectural plans, makes decisions. With the premier season in swing through its finale Aug. 21 – Bassuet is basking in glory. He thinks it "fitting, almost ordained" that Tippet Rise ground inspired a beloved Montana painter long before the Halsteads eyed it. Painter Isabelle Johnson, photographed in the 1940s, inhabited and painted Tippet Rise land. Isabelle Johnson, born in 1901, lived on the land for decades, painting it with a modernist’s zeal. Her style is compared to an earlier post-Impressionist pioneer, Paul Cezanne. She died in 1992, leaving paintings testifying to the countryside’s beauty. Bassuet and the Halsteads believe it fitting that music and sculpture celebrate the land Johnson loved, ranched and painted, and that her family ranch land hosts a novel arts center. “Is there a budget?” a guest asks. “Not really,” Bassuet smiles. “It’s about the Halsteads’ belief that art, music, architecture and nature play key roles in the human experience.” THE HALSTEADS' fortunes come from investments, banking, oil and alcohol. (Does Grey Goose vodka ring a bell? Sidney Frank, Cathy Halstead’s father who died in 2006, founded the company.) The two grew up with philanthropy, art and reverence for the land. Arts boosters Bruce Keller, Christene Meyers and Corby Skinner, backed by an Alexander Calder sculpture at Tippet Rise. Hiring an enterprising Frenchman to champion their project was shrewd, for they found someone whose artistic sensibilities parallel theirs. Their bold ambition – creating modern art in a rugged landscape -- works. The sculptures look made for the place, rising against a backdrop of sagebrush and volcanic rock, both constants in Johnson’s paintings. The Halsteads’ dream included the desire that people be free to “move about the land, appreciating it as an extension of their enjoyment of the arts,” Bassuet says. “They insisted each piece occupy its own space.” With sculpture commissions in the millions, the Halsteads wanted viewers to concentrate on each piece individually– without seeing another work. For that, a large expanse of land was a necessity. TYhe renowned Ariel String Quartet opened the debut Tippet Rise season with pianist Nikolai Demidenko, left, on the Brahms Piano Quartet. COMING UP: Next week's blog celebrates the programming, artwork and expertise represented in Tippet Rise, from the world renowned sculptors and musicians (NPR's Christopher O'Reilly is program director) to cutting-edge architects, the ranch manager who keeps a working ranch, the "green" caterers and the education co-ordinator who works with museums and school expeditions on outreach programs. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post for the weekend.

  • Tippet Rise: Magic arises from imagination, deep pockets and prime location

    "Daydreams" by Patrick Dougherty, under construction last fall at Tippet Rise, is part of a glorious landscape merging art and nature, with indoor and outdoor performance spaces, world known sculpture and a roster of international performers. Tippet Rise Olivier Barn concert hall going up in October. Tippet Rise CONCERTS, SCULPTURE, 'GREEN' THEME WILL ATTRACT INTERNATIONAL ATTENTION STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER TIPPET RISE spared no expense in hiring the best people available for each position. And its designers and builders made certain it is environmentally correct in every way. Tippet Rise completed Olivier Barn concert hall. Peter Halstead, left foreground, opened the program, with Christopher O'Riley, in chair, director of programming. Above right, from left: Bruce Keller, Christene Meyers and Corby Skinner framed by an Alexander Calder sculpture. For music director of Tippet Rise, founders Cathy and Peter Halstead chose nationally known pianist Christopher O’Riley, host of National Public Radio’s “From the Top.” Big Sky Journal features innovation at Tippet Rise O’Riley’s diverse music series features world premieres by prominent composers, and internationally renowned artists --“immersive concert experiences” in both the acoustically perfect Olivier Barn and the open-sided, moveable outdoor acoustical shell, Tiara. Other performances will be staged at sculpture sites. Dozens of workers helped finish Tippet Rise's outdoor concert space, Tiara, and the rest of the major buildings between autumn and this summer. HIRING ENTERPRISING Frenchman Alban Bassuet to champion their project was shrewd, for they found someone whose artistic sensibilities parallel theirs. Their bold ambition – creating modern art in a rugged landscape -- works. The sculptures look made for the place, rising against a backdrop of sagebrush and volcanic rock. Bassuet is known internationally for his ability to "stretch" and break down boundaries. He’s supervised projects in Greece, Switzerland, Iceland, Houston, Boston and Taipei. Alban Bassuet, left, and sculptor Ricardo Sanz during an early period of the design phase. A much larger piece massive in size now dwarfs humans. The Halsteads’ dream saw people “free to move about the land, appreciating it as an extension of their enjoyment of the arts,” Bassuet says. “And they insisted each piece occupy its own space.” WITH SCULPTURE commissions in the millions (a single work carries a $5 million price tag), the Halsteads determined that viewers concentrate on each piece individually. For that, a large expanse of land was a necessity. “Rise” is a suggestive title for the project, considered by many to be Montana’s most daring and expensive arts endeavor. “What we are doing here is progressive,” says Bassuet. “We’re about renewable energy, sustainable farming, hiring local people, buying locally, making magnificent art." Bassuet believes lovers of music, art and landscape will travel from far beyond to experience this new “land art” space. Peter Halstead explains to a full house how he and his wife, Cathy, merged their various interests in creation of Tippet Rise. TICKETS TO THE performances venues – outdoor and indoor -- cost only $10. The first season sold out immediately, and in the tradition of chamber music soirees, the audience is only 100. Music aficionados enhance their concert going with a tour of the sculptures created by internationally known artists. Drivers shuttle people to nine large carefully positioned pieces. More will be added. "DAYDREAMS" is an installation by internationally praised environmental artist Patrick Dougherty. The one-room prairie schoolhouse looks like a set piece for “Little House on the Prairie,” enticingly draped in woven saplings and sticks. The building is new, but designed to appear old. Nails have been pushed up to look as if they’d spent decades battling the elements. Dougherty’s woven willows bring the building to life. Tippet Rise invites lovers of art, music and landscape to indulge their senses. A Mark di Suvero's six-story work has a metronome-like pendulum and A-frame supports. It was moved from Dallas, one of 55 cities to host the artist’s work. Another di Suvero piece, “Beethoven’s Quartet,” is a monumental musical sculpture. Ensamble Studios of Madrid artist Ricardo Sanz installed two vertical rocklike forms which lean toward one another. Famed structural artist Stephen Talasnik’s “Pioneer” appears to float, drawing the eye up towards the “big sky” which stands sentinel above the rolling hills. THE INDOOR CONCERT space showcases designer Laura Viklund’s glorious wooden frame, in the guise of an “old barn.” Complementing it are new-age, perfect acoustics, with green room, dressing room, piano storage room and lifts. Water, electricity, insulation, heating and cooling, including solar panels, are all “planet friendly.” Veteran rancher Ben Wynthein manages the property, insuring that it remain a working ranch, digging wells and monitoring grazing lands for sheep and cattle. Pete and Lindsey Hinmon direct logistics and operations, including working with teachers from surrounding towns. The Halsteads hired Montana labor and contractors, recruited local landscapers, maintenance workers, marketing specialists, ushers, stagehands and drivers. They signed on local caterers Wendy Reed and Nick Goldman, remembered for their inventive feasts at Big Yellow House in Absarokee. The artists -- from U.S. cities and Europe -- fell in love with Montana, Bassuet says, “and found themselves captivated by its spectacular settings.” (His own affinity for the project resulted in moving his family to Montana.) Exquisite craftsmanship is the byword at Tippet Rise. Utility lines are hidden. Even the parking lot looks discreetly natural, “to entice the eye as one approaches,” says Bassuet. The place is a metaphor for art’s transcendent quality, its ability to connect people and engage them in the landscape. “Tippet Rise is the tip of the spear,” Bassuet says. “We believe people will visit – almost as a pilgrimage. Tippet Rise will become a destination of itself.” UP NEXT: Who knew that near the heart of busy San Diego, a piece of country awaits discovery by this native Montanan. Las Penasquitos Canyon Preserve and Ranch is a lovely, rugged park with a historic adobe ranch house built in 1823. The place is now on the National Historic Register and offers hiking, biking, equestrian trails and more. It's near Carmel Mountain Ranch, and the I15, but you wouldn't know it's in the city. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post for the weekend. Rancho Penasquitos and the Canyon Preserve await.

  • Tippet Rise: Majestic arts venue unfolds in the hills of Montana

    An Alexander Calder sculpture welcomes concert goers to an unforgettable experience merging art, music and nature. Tippet Rise, six years in the making, is gaining international acclaim for its invention, talent and originality. GLORIOUS CONCERT HALL, SCULPTURES, WORLD CLASS ARTISTS COMPLEMENT NATURE'S OWN GRAND STAGE AT TIPPET RISE Each piece of sculpture at Tippet Rise contributes an evocative voice to the complex. Here in the Olivier Barn, Stephen Talasnik's large wall sculpture gives a striking effect. Talasnik, born in Philadelphia and New York based, is one of the world-class contributors. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN PETER and Cathy Halstead began their search for the perfect place to build their dream, they had one unifying goal. The place must inspire, with landscape that would enhance both the music dear to musician Peter's heart, and the visual arts which have long inspired Cathy's painting. The property they ultimately settled on is a few miles above the tiny Montana town of Fishtail. Still a working cattle ranch and once inspiration for well known Stillwater County painter Isabelle Johnson, the wide and sweeping landscape stirs the imagination and lifts the spirits. Marco Polo "Mark" di Suvero's looming piece is one of the stunning abstract expressionist sculptures gracing Tippet Rise. NOW WITH millions of dollars worth of sculpture -- and a concert hall whose impeccable acoustics delight the world's top musicians -- Tippet Rise indeed inspires. The project pays fitting tribute to the working ranch's late resident rancher and painter, Isabelle Johnson. Some believe her ghost is riding high, waving her paint brush, smiling down on the Halsteads' unique endeavor. A world traveler, ahead of her time, Johnson studied in Europe, merging cutting edge technique with her own energy, curiosity and undeniable talent. So, too, do the Halsteads. Peter Halstead's own poetry entertains at Tippet Rise, where pre-concert talks and readings prepare viewers for an evening of enticing delights. Married for decades and friends since their teen-age years, the couple shared dreams and goals as their relationship and artistic tastes matured. They traveled the world, and studied at both Columbia University and New York University. Peter is an accomplished pianist and well published poet, with a wry wit and broad tastes. He also possesses Pianist Anne Marie McDermott, interviewed by Peter Halstead, shares spirited anecdotes before her weekend concerts of Haydn and Mozart recently. Halstead also writes erudite program notes. an enviable collection of Steinways which he plays, stores and shares at the art center. Cathy is a respected visual artist, who has shown in top galleries. Tippet Rise pays homage to both of their lifelong passions. 'MAJESTIC' describes their collaboration -- grand artwork and enchanting concerts on 11,500 acres where cattle roam and sheep graze. As season two of the venture caps, one listens to Beethoven, Mozart and Haydn -- along with new-age percussion works -- performed on perfectly tuned instruments by artists who play the world's great concert halls. The concert goer ponders beauty on several levels -- both man made and wondrously spawned by nature. Outside, seemingly at peace with the practiced sounds from within, deer graze beneath the cottonwoods, framed by the Olivier Barn's showcase windows. http://www.whereiscookie.com/2016/07/tippet-rise-magic-arises-from.html TOURS TO the sculptures are available, and a delightful restaurant serves healthy western fare created by Nick and Wendy Goldman of Wildflower Kitchen and Catering. Peter Halstead shares his grand pianos, including Vladimir Horowitz's personal piano, which Eugene Istomin also played. It resides at Tippet Rise, and is kept tuned for visiting artists. Beyond the summer concerts, specialty films, plays and operas are shared via cinema. Area university ensembles and community arts groups are invited to perform. Neighbors are invited to barbecue. Workshops are held throughout the season and an outreach director insures the community participates in and is kept abreast of the center's endeavors and global reach. Tippet Rise, named after Cathy's mother, merges landscape with the couple's lifelong commitment to the arts. The Halsteads' unique merger would surely please their ancestors -- philanthropists with a love of nature. http://www.whereiscookie.com/2016/06/tippet-rise-philanthropists-love-of.html Sweeping vistas draw the viewer in -- rolling hills, clouds straight out of a fairy tale, and sculptures, each in its own space, not visible from the other. AS HEIRS to the Grey Goose vodka fortune and other successful investments, the Halsteads hired the world's best talent to shape their vision. We are the beneficiaries of their largesse. The Halsteads' belief -- that art enriches the human experience, and that nature inspires both artists and aficionados -- will outlive us all. Meanwhile, we anxiously await season three. NEXT UP: Oregon's lighthouses have long inspired, with their remarkable architecture and time honored history of helping sailors, commerce and tourism. We take you on a tour of some of the finest. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend a novel spin on the arts, nature and whatever else catches our eye!

  • Why visit Hollywood! Studios provide feel for film, fodder for book in Los Angeles visits

    ON THE TRAIL OF MOVIE LORE, WRITERS HEAD FOR HOLLYWOOD As Cookie got her novel-writing groove back, she and Keller took to the road, exploring settings for "Lilian's Last Dance." Here they are, above Los Angeles, their backs to the town, looking at the famed Hollywood sign. Why visit Hollywood! There’s something undeniably magnetic about Hollywood a place where dreams have been made, stars have risen, and stories come to life on every corner. Nestled within Los Angeles, this world-famous neighborhood invites travelers to walk along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catch panoramic views from Griffith Observatory, and feel the buzz of an industry that has shaped global culture for over a century. Whether it’s your first visit or a return trip, Hollywood offers a vibrant mix of history, entertainment, and that unmistakable touch of movie magic. Although Grauman's Chinese Theater was not around in the novel's time, it remains full of history and nostalgia and was helpful in conjuring detail for "Lilian's Last Dance." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER EARLY-DAY movie makers often had a background in Vaudeville, as did our major players in "Lilian's Last Dance." My grandmother Olive loved Vaudeville, and played for the silent movies. An early-day cinematographer. The action in "Lilian's Last Dance" moved from New York across the United States to Hollywood. That meant we needed to go to, where else, Los Angeles! Why visit Hollywood To get a feel for the days when Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks roamed the lots, when United Artists was a fledgling enterprise and when MGM and Paramount entered into bidding wars over the top stars, we grabbed the popcorn and took off. Paramount's past is linked to Hollywood and the novel's study of the birth of modern-day film. In our novel, a troupe of gifted actors and musicians is yearning for challenge and change. We got into that spirit! WE PORED over photos and found many of a famous "new face on the lot," a Biograph actress with long, cork-screw blonde curly locks, nicknamed "Little Mary." We decided that Mary Pickford should ake an appearance in "Lilian's Last Dance." "The Girl with the Golden Hair" became the first major star of movie-making during our novel's unfolding. Mary Pickford takes a cameo bow in "Lilian's Last Dance." Her career gave us a starting point for imaging the lifestyle of the Hollywood our characters inhabit. ALTHOUGH he traveled to Hollywood and Los Angeles regularly during his 25 years as chief film critic for the Arizona Republic, Bill's open heart surgeries and cancer treatment left him weakened and unable to make road trips toward the end of his life. Anyone who has been caretaker for an ailing cancer patient knows the trauma of chemotherapy, radiation, the eventual an air lift back to the desert Bill loved, and his death in hospice care at our Arizona home. Cookie and Keller took several Hollywood "stars homes" tours to develop a feel for the property the leading players in "Lilian's Last Dance" would buy. AFTER A FEW fallow writing years -- I began to get my old momentum back. "What would Billy want?" I asked myself. "For you to get back on the horse," I heard him say. The characters of "Lilian's Last Dance" would have seen Hollywood Hills much like this vintage photo. I had just the right person to ride with. Bruce William Keller (who shares both my late husband's names, Bruce and William) said he's love to accompany me to cinema museums, on Hollywood show biz tours, driving tours of the West, returns to Europe. An accomplished photographer and illustrator of this blog, he quickly caught the spirit: talking to hotel marketing people, librarians, public relations folks, historians. He loved visiting a usually "off limits" room where we admired vintage posters. We found several of "America's Sweetheart," Miss Pickford, who commanded one of the highest salaries of the day. She was paid $175 week at first and then $1,000 a week for a five year period. Capitalizing on the intense bidding for actresses, Pickford commanded an unheard of $2 million annual salary, with percentages from Paramount. She would soon become a co-founder of United Artists, with Charlie Chaplin and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. This research played into the details of our novel's Hollywood days. COMING UP: Cygnet Theater is a jewel in San Diego's theatrical crown. The season is an exciting one -- and its annual holiday gift to the community. Explore, learn, live and remember: carpe diem. www.whereiscookie.com

  • Clifton's in Los Angeles - an eccentric wonder world of food, art, kitsch, tradition

    The entrance to Clifton's, a Los Angeles tradition, is a preview to the lights, glitz, old-fashioned fare and displays inside. While you enjoy old-fashioned cafeteria food, you may be entertained by a juggler, gymnast or musicians at Clifton's in Los Angeles POPULAR EATERY IS STEEPED IN HISTORY, FAVORITE OF LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Clifton's in Los Angeles The "Golden Rule": Founder Clifford Clinton, influenced by his missionary upbringing, famously allowed customers to pay only what they could afford or "dine free unless delighted". It is estimated the restaurant fed two million people for free during its early decades. The Atmosphere: Known as a "poor man's nightclub," the Broadway location (Brookdale) featured a 20-foot waterfall, faux redwood trees, and a small chapel to provide an escapist fantasy for city dwellers. A Cultural Hub: In the 1930s, the "Brown Room" at Clifton's was the weekly meeting spot for the Los Angeles Science Fiction League, hosting legends like Ray Bradbury , Robert Heinlein , and Ray Harryhausen . Current Status: After extensive renovations by owner Andrew Meieran, the landmark was rebranded as Clifton’s Republic. It evolved into a multi-story entertainment venue YOU WILL  feel as if you're an extra in "Alice in Wonderland" at Clifton's where you'll happily travel down the rabbit hole to discovery -- critters in full taxidermy glory, gymnasts, partiers, gourmands, history buffs and families gathering in what feels like a real forest. Our Los Angeles friends suggested we stop by Clifton's Cafeteria for a beverage and snack after a recent play at the Ahmanson Theater. Deer, bears and here a handsome lion await.  Clifton's in Los Angeles "It's unlike anything you might imagine," said our friend Sue, a native Angelina. She grew up as a Clifton's patron, coming to the cafeteria with her family and still enjoying the occasional Clifton's foray today. She was right. Nothing like it. The vintage nature of Clifton's includes lovely appointments, even in the men's room. Clifton's Cafeteria is a Los Angeles landmark. No, you are not seeing things.  It's a massive fake tree, cut into the floors above you. All part of Clifton's decor.   CALIFORNIA'S  lone survivor from the Golden Age of cafeterias gives new meaning to "dining experience" with stuffed animals, a giant faux tree "growing" artfully through several of the restaurant's five stories and more. It's crammed with artifacts, antiques and kitsch, a “Cabinet of Curiosities” and a variety of other eccentric attractions to celebrate California’s diverse natural and cultural legacy. The cafeteria is known for its forest themed environment, the star of which is the fake tree installed in a cut-away ceiling. The charming but wacky place has no doubt survived because of both its fine food and word-of-mouth reputation, as well as five generations of family support and innovation. It is named after Clifford Clinton, who combined his names for the "Clifton" handle.  It began as a modest eatery in 1888 when his ancestor, David Harrison Clinton, a 45-year-old Confederate veteran from Missouri, traveled to Los Angeles with a teenage son. HE BOUGHT  the Southern Hotel on Main Street and opened a restaurant and dining room. Its reputation grew and it was proudly passed on through the generations, evolving in 1931 into Clifton's which grew to a chain of eight.  The Brookdale eatery is the lone survivor. Many believe its restored and historic dining hall and fantasy environment, "Forest Glen," helped inspire Walt Disney to create Disneyland nearly two decades later.   Makes sense because a trip to Clifton's is a trip to fantasyland, from its "Crystal Caverns" filled with rare minerals to artful terraces, a stone chapel, impressive murals and vintage artwork. IN A CITY  known for excess, the cafeteria provides a stunning albeit over-the-top experience dedicated to both tasty food, and to the celebration of California's colorful past.  Entrepreneur Clinton held value, quality, innovation and contemporary twists as his goals.  A plaque about the state's beloved redwoods pays tribute. Old fashioned home cooking is the byword at Clifton's, from jello to beef and potatoes. WE TRIED several items -- from thick sandwiches to soups and snacks.  We settled at a table on the second floor and were soon entertained by a limber gymnast performing on ropes hung from the ceiling. Sue headed downstairs to order small plates and sandwiches while I queued up for beverages.  One may go through the cafeteria line or buffet and make it a quick meal or a leisurely one with old-fashioned cafeteria entrees or tasty small plates. Be sure to wander through the exhibits. "We're about good food and visual entertainment," the bartender told me. "We're into pleasing people." BEST BETS: San Diego is experiencing a happy glut of theatrical riches. Not to miss is "The Illusion," a fantastical tale with elements of magic, about a father-son estrangement, the bonds of love and the power of regret. The Rep's gifted artistic director David Ellenstein is at the helm, so expect precision, artful staging and top acting. Go to  northcoastrep.org Go to  sdrep.org   Check out Cygnet Theatre and San Diego Musical Theatre for fun musicals. NEXT UP :  Up for a road trip to some of the most spectacular wildflowers you'll see this lifetime? The Anza Borrego Desert near San Diego is experiencing record blooms through mid-April, due to recent rains and just the right temperature and sunshine to make the seeds happy. We're on the trail of the blooming wonder and will share on the next posting, coming soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each weekend for a lively approach to travel, nature and the lively arts.   Bruce Keller takes aim as the day dawns at Anza Borrego's wildflower frenzy.

  • National Parks attract record numbers as Travelers Seek Nature in Road Trips

    Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park is the park's largest lake and, many believe the most beautiful, MILLIONS OF TRAVEL-STARVED TOURISTS WORLDWIDE TURN TO PARKS, GARDENS, NATURE EXPERIENCES, OUTDOOR DINING FOR PANDEMIC RELIEF STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Grand Teton, seeking relief from isolation. AS THE VEIL of the pandemic slowly lifts, national parks are attracting record numbers of travelers as they take to parks and open spaces worldwide. After months of lock down, the outdoors offers inspiration and relief. In the U.S., tourists are flocking to revel in the landscapes of Glacier, Yellowstone, Yosemite, Bryce Canyon and Grand Teton national parks.  In Europe, outdoor parks and mountain trails are welcoming record numbers of enthusiasts, joyous to be outdoors again. Nature and its varied landscapes offer a calming coda to months of isolation caused by the spread of COVID-19. A sculpture in the world famous Vigeland Park in Norway, where thousands visit each year THROUGHOUT  the world -- mostly where citizens are vaccinated -- outdoor venues, concert spaces and parks are welcoming record numbers of guests.  Norway's Vigeland Park, featuring the intriguing sculpture of Gustav Vigeland, is a wonderful, family-friendly outdoor arena. Remarkably, it's free, honoring the sculptor's wishes and a substantial endowment. The fascinating venue is really a park within a park, located in Frognerparken (Frogner Park), the largest public park in Oslo.  A popular spot in all weather, this lovely park also boasts an open-air pool, restaurants, a museum and much more. One of many intriguing sculptures at Tippet Rise. A natural backdrop provides a stunning setting for The Domo. Vigeland was a conservationist and hiker and wanted his sculpture to be showcased in a venue offering the compliment of nature's healing  balm. This life-saving pairing -- art and the outdoors --  is a magical elixir, a sanity saver and health booster for millions of us now more than ever. TIPPET RISE  Art Center in my native Montana is open. This unique venue in the spectacular plains and hills of south-central Montana is open for hiking and biking on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays from June 25 through September. Although there is no concert season again this year, outdoor enthusiasts are welcome to bring a mountain bike or hiking shoes and tour the remarkable collection of huge sculptures and soak up the gorgeous Montana landscape. Hiking and bicycling tours are free, but require reservations. Call 406 328-7820.   The road greets visitors to Yellowstone Park's East Entrance outside of Cody, Wyo. We need all the open space we can find, so we turn to nature for relief and inspiration. AFTER MONTHS of isolation, people -- including the two of us travel writers -- are anxious to travel again.    National parks predict tourist numbers will more than double this year, as families, hikers, bikers, campers and cyclists hit the roads. Whether in search of geysers, sand dunes, beaches or wildlife refuges, folks are heading to the parks by the tens of thousands.  As travel restrictions start to lift in Europe and beyond, and talks of a UK-US travel corridor heat up, travel is returning, slowly becoming possible. The the European Union, a Covid travel pass is being rolled out across the bloc so travelers are again moving about within Europe. The canals of Venice are expected to draw record numbers as Europe slowly opens again to travelers. In several European countries, international tourists have been welcome since the start of June, with most visitors needing only to present a negative COVID test or vaccination card. Visitors from some countries, like the U.S., may still need to follow a 10-day quarantine. Restrictions are lifting country by country, however. So check with individual tourist bureaus. HAPPY NEWS  is that many European countries, including Italy, are expected to be classed as "low risk" by the end of June. Cafes, bars, restaurants, hotels and theaters have partially reopened to the public in many European countries, and parks. In Ashland, Oregon, for instance, after 16 months of lock-down, the world famous Allen Elizabethan Theater is staging its first show. Outdoor dining worldwide is more popular than it has ever been. Many restaurants have opened patio areas, and will likely keep them even after the virus is quelled. Keller and Cookie hold Nick on a road trip while awaiting poolside room service. OBVIOUSLY, TRAVEL can increase a person’s risk of getting and spreading the virus, so it is still wise to take precautions. Remember that we're in close contact with one another, sometimes for prolonged periods. We are also exposed to more frequently touched surfaces. Air or train travel requires spending time in security lines and busy airport terminals.  So even though the CDC has loosened its requirements for masking, we recommend it. We're also devoted "hand-sanitizers." We also distance whenever possible. We ask for outdoor dining seating whenever possible.  At a recent play, we were seated six feet from others. On a flight to Hawaii, a middle seat was empty, but that is soon ending, making masking even more important.  So be shrewd, be cautious, be protected. And with these careful conditions, we can once again travel. Happy, safe trails!   Touring in Salinas and Monterey, at Cannery Row in the old part of town.

  • Highchap "Remodeling Blues" calls for patience, tact, humor

    Sander and saw in hand, Bruce Keller, a summer resident, embarks upon an incredible building journey at High Chaparral. KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE PRIZE AS YOU ENTER A MAJOR BUILDING PROJECT AND, OH, YES, BE NICE TO ONE ANOTHER! Demolition calls for a strong constitution and the knowledge that the chaos will end. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Highchap "Remodeling Blues" IF I HAD KNOWN the full extent of the disruption, and the decline of my patience and mental health, would I have embarked upon this remodeling project in the wilds of Montana, miles from stores and materials and dependable help? Who knows that Highchap "Remodeling Blues"  we do most things that involve complication, unrest and tension?  Would we knowingly toss our routines and securities to the wind? Keller, Tom Giamanco, Bradford Smith clown at hat party. All three hats represent various aspects of the construction project. The important fact: the new addition will be gorgeous.  I will have helped (a little, at least), and Keller, the maestro of this complicated orchestration, can rest on his laurels for the remainder of our lives. This San Diego native "cowboyed up" to a Montana project as large as the Big Sky he's come to love in eight summers here. KELLER IS A MASTER builder, familiar with the twists, turns, timing needs and difficulties of fitting all the pieces of the puzzle together. So he knew there would be glitches, delays, misunderstandings. He was not surprised at mistakes in orders, running short of cedar planks, errors in the course of the new rooms going up. From left, Brad, Tom and Keller enjoy lunch at High Chap.  I, foolish Cookie, expected everything to go smoothly. (From Keller's perspective, things did!) But in my business of writing, it's possible to make precise predictions.  If I were consistently late for appointments, as a couple workers have been, or if I made serious mistakes, as have happened a few times, I might lose my job. But good workers are hard to find, humans do make mistakes -- even the best in the business -- and orders don't always come in on time. Sometimes the wrong products are sent -- or the plumbing part, tool or window doesn't arrive in Absarokee -- 27 miles away, so a 54-mile round trip can be for naught. Billings means more miles and a day-long commitment. There were many trips there. A rafting adventure gave us a bit of needed R&R.   KNOWING A FEW  things will go wrong, and accepting that fact, then dealing with the situations, is a gift Keller has perfected through 40 years of being a builder and contractor supervisor.  He knows how to line up subs, fitting the pieces of the puzzle together into an intricate jigsaw puzzle.  He maintains good cheer, encourages his colleagues, listens to suggestions. (Except sometimes mine,  I contend.) Working and living in the same house one is remodeling is tough. People are in and out. Things get lost, misplaced, buried. The floor gets tracked with dirt from the digger, dry wall mud and dust.  Small Yorkshire terriers are constantly flinching as nail guns stutter and large tools are dropped or moved. Tom got to meet actor Gary Burthoff, "Radar," of M*A*S*H, at a party. Taking time to "smell the roses" -- a walk to the river, a drive in a Yellowstone Park bus, a silly time at a hat party -- all of these diversions have helped calm us and ease the tension.  We all enjoyed the recent benefit for Stillwater Protective Association at Montana Jack's, and had a fabulous time.  I made a point of fixing pleasant meals -- easy breakfasts and lunches and a tasty supper, and made sure there were cool drinks during the day and beers and wine after a 10 or 12-hour work day. Tom, painter Jim Slater, and Keller, play with Nick, Nora.   ONE NIGHT , the boys went to Gena Burghoff's birthday party the day after I sprained my arm, and met her dad, Gary Burghoff, known to millions as the amiable corporal Radar O'Reilly, on "M*A*S*H." All work and no play makes for a cranky Cookie and she notices the boys get cranky too if they don't have an occasional evening or afternoon off. Keep your spirits up, be nice to the contractor (he's exhausted and is doing a fabulous job!). The boys unwound on short, reviving hikes to the river, and spent time playing with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Big Sky Country's splendors await.  We'll share recent landscapes. COMING SOON :  We head up the California coast, enjoying some of our favorite waterfront hotels and restaurants, and we study the bird and animal life "home on the range" in our other favorite spot in the world, Big Sky Country, Montana! We try to give our pieces a sense of fun and offbeat adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live.  Join us Wednesdays and weekends at   www.whereiscookie.com    l

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