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  • Take a kid along to enrich your travel pleasures: Tips for Traveling with Children

    Introducing our family to the pleasures of our much loved Hawaii added pleasure to the trip in many ways. Here we are -- Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, at left, with our Bay Area family, the Ganners: Steve, James, Amarylla and Peny, on the shores of Hilton's Waikoloa Resort on the Big Island. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE LOVE to travel with our niece, nephew-in-law and their kids. Seeing a new place with a youngster gives an extra kick to all of us. Kids give you a perspective you may not have had -- or one you lost after you "grew up." The innocence and enthusiasm of kids helps you get more bang for your travel buck. And you learn along with them. Kids find ways to explore and enjoy without the constraints imposed by adulthood. Here Peny and James make a game out of hotel yard decor. Introducing a young person to a familiar beloved city is mind expanding. Taking a child to a theater, aquarium, concert hall, park or museum enhances the adult visitor's perception. It's also a chance to teach protocol and proper behavior. Seeing the delight of a child experiencing something new adds to the fun, here feeding fish at Barcelona's aquarium. Taking a kid to a palace, formal garden or stately home and introducing the child to tour guides, scholars, musicians and artists inevitably bolsters our own knowledge. It may take time and homework to research and answer a child's questions. The enthusiasm of youth is contagious. It's a joy to watch kids build character and become more courageous, confident and independent as a result of travel and exposure. A trip to Disney World here, or Disneyland in California, or any amusement park is a good way to rediscover the child within. For children, experiencing the inevitable pitfalls of travel is part of the adventure. While we adults might be anxious when we get lost or battle a language barrier, kids usually don't. When we resort to the web to decipher a menu, a child will point to a photo or just jump in and try something new. Children enjoy the challenges and roll with them more easily. We take our great niece and nephew to the circus whenever we can, here in Redwood City, California. TRAVEL ALSO introduces tolerance and acceptance, commodities we all need. As Mark Twain said, travel is the enemy of prejudice, so it's wonderful to watch children enjoy, accept and embrace other cultures. A hula class on the beach with guests from Indonesia, France, Chile and Norway was a highlight for me in Hawaii. What fun to use my college French, and for all of us to learn to hula together. Treasured time was spent with new friends and my niece and grand niece learning, enriching, expanding our global view. The innocence of kids embraces the new, here at Maui's Surfing Goat Dairy where kids meet kids. ******************************************************************************************** NEXT UP: Christmas and Hanukkah are distinct holidays from different faiths -- Christianity and Judaism. Their dates sometimes overlap due to the different calendars they follow . Often our Jewish friends celebrate Christmas while at the same time, we respect Hanukkah. It began this year at nightfall on Sunday, Dec. 14 and ends on Monday, Dec. 22 this year. As always our Christmas is Dec. 25, which this year we celebrate on a Thursday. While the holidays are always close together, sometimes they coincide as in 2024 when the first night of Hanukkah fell on Christmas Day. That won't happen again until 2035. Meanwhile, we reflect on the importance of respect for one another and various traditions -- both religious and secular. Let's make this holiday season a time to celebrate friendships new and old, family and the joys of travel, nature and life. L'chaim! Celebrating the holidays in a new place adds dimension. Here, a double rainbow on the Kona Coast of the Big Island made a special New Year's! We take a look next week at what we value during holiday time -- friends, family, travel and extending tolerance and grace.

  • Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb delivers: steel, scenery, spectacle

    Above: Once at the top, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller pause for a victory pose. The Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb is world famous for its challenge and spectacle. Below: Dwarfed by massive steel, climbers at far right make their way up the side of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Directly in front of the first climber are the steep ladders one climbs to the top SENSORY OVERLOAD CLIMBING WORLD'S MOST ICONIC BRIDGE IN SYDNEY "It's like climbing a majestic erector set assembled by dozens of three-man rivet teams...."  -- Bruce Keller STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONCE YOU'VE  climbed the famous Sydney Harbour Bridge, you'll feel as if you've won an Olympic medal. Ascending the world-renowned bridge (spelled Harbor to us Yanks) is a test of one's will, determination and courage.  Our group prepares for the climb, having passed the breath test, climbed the practice ladders, filled out mounds of paperwork. Daring the fates, we climbed it a second time a couple weeks ago. It's a fun option if you're cruising. We'd just enjoyed a Celebrity cruise, and could look upon our handsome ship from hundreds of feet on high. Scared of heights and a lifelong sports neophyte, I had extreme  trepidations. Why bother when I could safely sit on my, er, laurels? Because I simply had to. I've suffered from vertigo since childhood. I quiver and tremble on high-floor hotel balconies. I have a chart-topping fear of balconies or viewing platforms.  So climbing it not once, but twice, was an accomplishment  I'm proud of. Forgive my hubris. SURE I HAVE other talents.  I play piano, sing, conduct an orchestra, arrange a medley, jam on my saxophone and offer up a passable second violin in a string quartet.  But climbing a bridge! "who, me?" I'd never considered it. Not until my partner and travel mate Keller suggested it eight years ago. From the bridge at night, the city's splendors unfold far below. "OK. You're afraid of heights, fine," he said. "I get that.  But why not challenge yourself? You're so confident about other things, time to expand your horizons." In 2015, we were planning a return to Australia, a country we both love, had visited several times before, but never together.  It would be a special time on so many counts, so I surprised him one day with a booking. No turning back. THE DAY of the climb, I gazed at the imposing bridge as our walk brought us closer.  I was fascinated and terrified by the ant-size figures climbing over its top. That would be us in a few hours. (Pulse acceleration. Slight dizziness.) The famous Sydney Opera House is far below happy climbers. Soon we were filling out papers and taking a breath test. Every climber must have a blood-alcohol reading below 0.05. Otherwise, you're rejected from the climb and forfeit your fee. The "Climb" staff of 100-plus is knowledgeable, amiable and accommodating. Media and marketing director Brock put us at ease when our taxi from the hotel took three times longer than anticipated. He and the able staff kindly rebooked us, thanks to a cancellation. The protocol included safety videos, then trading our clothes for special light-weight climbing suits, stepping into our harnesses and straps and heading out the door and up, up and away. Emphasis on "up." Earlier, we'd proved we could climb by going up two practice ladders in the preparation room. FIRST BRIDGE CLIMB RECALLED WE HAD ALSO learned how to fasten and use our lanyards, sliding them along a practice cable. So once on the bridge, we felt secure because we were literally hooked to it. And, as patient, daring Keller reminded me, "You've already done this once, Cookster. Piece of cake."  The Sydney Harbour Bridge is bathed in the colors of the rainbow.  Special lighting celebrates Gay Pride. The tours are kept small to encourage a congenial feeling. We introduced ourselves with a brief "who and where from" to encourage conversation and camaraderie.  Our group included a couple from Manchester, England, a father-son from New Zealand, a honeymooning couple from Japan and two enthusiastic Swiss travelers who -- like the two of us --  had tackled the bridge before.  Our pleasant and encouraging guide, April, offered commentary and pep talks as we climbed --stories about the bridge, previous climbers and Sydney's grand history.  The enterprise offers various packages: romance packages are popular as is a first-nations people tour with Aboriginal landmarks and native history told by indigenous storytellers. There are climbs geared to photographers, and others for students. There's a sunset-night time climb and the famous “Coathanger” which traverses the bridge from South to North, and back again and is considered the most challenging. I STILL TREMBLE when I think about it. But I'm so grateful to have summoned the courage again. The main draws for me were twofold: conquering my fear, and being part of a famous and historic enterprise. We learned that the bridge was built in 1932 in the height of the great worldwide depression, providing work for hundreds and boosting national pride. It cost 10 million to build --1.5 billion Aussie dollars today. The architect lived in a home below where he monitored progress. Unnerving to me during the steep 8-ladder climb was the roar and rumble of trains and cars. They shake the steel as they pass by the thousands (160,000 cars per day and dozens of trains.) One thinks of this bridge as solid and steady. It moves! I am still recovering. Safely grounded after nearly four hours together, our excellent guide April presented us with certificates congratulating us on our climb. YES, IT WAS a spectacular day. Keller is ready for a third climb. We joined 5,000 couples who have proposed on her, 40 wedding couples and more than 4 million of us slightly crazy climbers.  1,400 helped build her and a remarkably low number -- 16 -- died during the 8-year construction. One worker fell the 462 feet when his drill kicked back. He was an experienced diver and survived by going in feet first. He suffered shattered legs and broke every rib but he survived to return to his job! I recommend this to fellow cowards, and all of you who wish to do something you've never done. Why not challenge a cliche about yourself? Carpe diem. For the time of your life: bridgeclimb.com To book a Celebrity cruise to New Zealand or Australia ports: www.celebritycruises.com Dunedin Railways cars take train lovers and nature buffs deep into a corner of southern New Zealand that most folks never see. We highly recommend this Taieri Gorge trip . UP NEXT: While we're Down Under, we're exploring the wonders of both Australia and New Zealand. Come aboard two distinctive Kiwi trains, one out of Picton, the other from Dunedin. Come with us aboard the Marlborough Flyer and Taieri Gorge Railway, both show-stopping train excursions. Let these two distinctive trains whisk you away to beautiful farm land, sheep pastures, mountains, ravines, canyons and more in handsomely maintained  cars. Enjoy the beauty aboard a pair of trains, then visit a koala sanctuary and rest in the spectacular mountain town of Katoomba. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more. Do share the link:  www.whereiscookie.com

  • Food Tour - Dining delights in Key West: Munching a tasty, Cuban inspired path through town

    Before the restaurant opened  to the public, our small tasting group was invited in to El Siboney, a small, family-run eatery part of an enjoyable food tasting tour in Key West, Florida.   Conch fritters are on the menu at Mangoes, a lively fish eatery in Key West. The walking tour features five fun restaurants and lots of local history. Pork, beans and rice are a staple of the Cuban diet here served casually at El Siboney.  CUBAN FOOD, VINTAGE CARS, MUSIC, COFFEE SCENERY SUGGEST HAVANA -- BUT YOU'RE HAPPILY DINING IN KEY WEST, U.S.A. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONE CAN dine like a king, snacking your way through a leisurely few hours in Key West, where the scents and tastes of Cuba and the Caribbean are a very real part of life. We took a fun foodie's walking and tasting tour and we're going back for seconds! El Siboney takes its name from the Indian people who inhabited the Key West region. Kayla introduces herself and the eateries. What a moveable feast -- small bites of food, glorious food, with the emphasis on spice and seasonings one associates with the Caribbean, Cuba and South America. Throw in vintage cars sprinkled around the town, a walking tour with stops at historic places, and you've got a fun three or four-hour escape.    The Speakeasy Rum Bar  is a Key West landmark, and both it and its adjacent inn is popular with tourists. WE BEGAN  eating while our guide, Kayla, introduced us to the restaurants and our first dish, a classic pork, beans and rice offering.  Cubans eat lots of pork  and the Florida transplants brought their dining traditions. Kayla, who grew up in Mexico, is studying business and saving for her own food truck to specialize in Caribbean cooking. She comes from a family of good cooks, knows her Key West history and has flair and ambition. Every stroll in Key West is bound to encounter a protected rooster or two. WE TOOK OUR comfy chairs at our first restaurant,  El Siboney, with its colorful posters and friendly, family oriented ambience. Many consider El Siboney the most authentic Cuban restaurant in Key West. It is named for an indigenous tribe that inhabited Cuba circa 1492. It's also the name of a small town where the Cuban revolution began.  Kayla gave us an overview of our two-plus hour adventure while a group of six enjoyed a small plate of shredded pork, rice and a side dish of beans, served in the traditional way, with a wedge of lime and a slice of buttery Cuban bread -- slightly sweet and tasty. Vintage cars are part of the Key West allure, much as in Cuba, where old cars are on show. Mahi mahi with goat cheese and mango is a hit at Kaya. The signature key lime pie, with whipped cream and berries.  AFTER A FUN, quarter-mile stroll through a pretty palm tree-lined neighborhood, we arrived at the Speakeasy Inn and Rum Bar for a refreshing libation.  The bar tender briefed us on the history of the famous landmark. Now a bar and guest house, it was once the home of Raul Vasquez, who was a cigar selector at the Gato cigar factory. Raul’s passion was rum-running between Key West and Cuba.   Kaya Island Eats is one of the stops on the tasting tour. It is favorite with locals. WE CHOSE a non-alcoholic alternative to the rum cocktail since it was barely mid-day, then we were off again, headed to Mangoes on Key West's main artery, the colorful and lively Duvall Street. Here, we enjoyed the town's most famous menu item, conch fritters, served fresh and hot from the fryer, with lime and a tangy aioli.  At each stop, we were given time to stroll, ask questions of the chef, enjoy the artwork, and relax between courses. Next, Kaya Island Eats, where the chef, a Maui transplant, served us a delicious  small-plate serving of delectable mahi mahi, perfectly seared and topped with lovely goat cheese crumbles and a lime reduction.  After the food tour, Keller and Cookie took a short stroll to Key West's beautiful lighthouse. The town is walkable and user friendly with historic homes and museums all around.   LIMES ARE as much a part of the Key West culture as are the roosters and chickens which stroll about, protected by law with stiff fines for annoying or  hurting them. So our finale was that classic dessert -- Key Lime Pie -- served on the palm lined patio of Cuban Coffee Queen, where we'd stocked up on coffee beans the day before. The savory pie and a small glass of sweet, kick-ass Cuban coffee capped the tour.  Each of these places would make a fun separate stop, but the food tour's the way to go for a delightful edible overview of a fascinating town.      Fla-keys.com/key-west/ keywestfoodtours.com ;  historictours.com ;  cityofkeywest-fl.gov/ keywestchamber.org UP NEXT :  The dolphins are calling. And Hawaii beckons. We've got our traveling togs back on, fully vaccinated, "boostered" and enjoying hitting the airways again with courtesy, distancing, masking and respect for our fellow travelers. Although getting to Hawaii is not as easy as it was "pre-COVID," it can be done, if you're prepared. In search of dolphins and a chance to swim with them, we arm you with pointers to help clear the virus scanning procedure and shorten your wait in line. Then we take you to Kauai, and the Big Island for some fun away from crowds. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, cruising, the arts, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com A fun family outing to swim with the dolphins await at Hilton Waikoloa Village on The Big Island of Hawaii.

  • 'Taste of Victoria' food tour takes the cake for fun, history, variety

    Victoria, British Columbia, is a wonderful place to stroll, look and eat! The top-ranked food tasting tour in Canada is waiting for you on your next visit to this charming, ethnically varied city.  CULINARY WONDERS AWAIT -- FROM HISTORIC PUB TO FRENCH PATISSERIE TO A GOURMET HOLE IN THE WALL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Our tasting tour began at Roast Meat and Sandwich Shop, where we devoured delectable meatballs in a satisfying sauce. WE ALWAYS look for new, fun things to do when we travel, especially when we return to places we love and have visited before. So when we knew we'd have a long day in Victoria, B.C., we booked something we'd not tried before in this bustling city. We lined up a walking-tasting food tour. WHAT FUN food tours are. We've munched our way across Amsterdam, Rome, New Orleans, London and Key West --  increasing our pleasure in each city and appreciation of its culinary variety. Ayo Eat's yummy offering: delicious peanut sauce to complement a tasty Indonesian spring roll. Food in any city is shaped by its residents. A good food tour artfully weaves history and eating, and Andy Olson is one of the best food tour guides in the business.  He owns and manages "A Taste of Victoria Food Tours" which has cultivated a healthy worldwide foodie following. The amiable Olson takes a "hands on" -- make that "mouth on" -- approach. Since launching his business, he's continued his world travels, munching his way through dozens of food tours.  He knows what makes a good tasting tour fun: variety, local ingredients, history told with enthusiasm. "I wanted to show off this beautiful city and the eateries that make it appealing," Olson said as he ushered us around downtown Victoria. "I also wanted to emphasize local places serving local stuff." Mouth-watering candies were devoured with joy at Roger's Chocolates, with a delectable Victoria cream vanilla. First, the Roast Meat and Sandwich Shop, located in a bustling converted warehouse and flanked by a coffee shop, and other small food operations. This was a welcome beginning. We'd eaten a light breakfast and by 1 p.m. were hungry. A pair of mouth-watering meatballs swimming in savory tomato sauce hit the spot -- right out of an Italian grandma's kitchen   NEXT UP on our award-winning  historic walking and food tour was a stop at Victoria BBQ House and Bakery for a barbecue pork bun, a warm slightly sweet bun with a spoonful of seasoned pork inside. Olson guided us through Chinatown, Old Town and the city's Inner Harbor. Fan Tan Alley dates back to the mid-19th Century and is filled with boutiques. We stopped in Fan Tan Alley, a narrow lane -- only a few feet wide and 240 feet long -- between Fisgard Street and Pandora Avenue in Victoria's small but colorful Chinatown. Olson explained that it's the oldest Chinatown in Canada and the second oldest in North America after San Francisco. Its beginnings stem from the mid-19th Century's influx of miners from California. IF WE'D  been walking on our own, we might have passed by some of the intriguing places Olson chose. For instance, Ayo Eat, a tiny street-food place with a chef who cooked for the Dalai Lama before leaving Indonesia. The peanut sauce and tasty spring roll it garnished were fabulous -- tangy, rich, but not overpowering. It was a favorite of us both.  Slim and fit, Olson shared his experience in making macarons, at a stop in the pretty, chandelier-lit French pastry shop, La Roux Patisserie. Its owner greeted us and described her clientele -- from wedding parties to couples celebrating an anniversary, to the retired teacher with an affection for croissants.  TASTING TOURS have been around for a couple decades -- but they've really taken off in the past decade. "I think people like to feel they're doing something a bit off the grid," Olson said. "And it's fun to be together, learning something new." Just Matcha's drinks are artfully served in a peaceful, rejuvenating setting. We were a small group in the afternoon, but Olson's morning tour had the full 8 or 9 he likes to tour with.  His knowledge and enthusiasm are part of the fun. He greets everyone by name and they all know and like him. His passion for his adopted home and the food it serves is obvious. He's tried everything the tour offers. Does he cook for himself and his wife? "No, actually, neither of us is a very good cook. That's partly how I came into this business.'' Andy Olson talks about his passion for food, inspiring his decision to open a tasting tour. A delectable French macaron from La Roux Patisserie in Victoria, a charming bakery. BETWEEN FOOD courses it was nice to get a break at Just Matcha Tea Shop, where we sipped a delightful matcha infused drink and had a Zen moment in the relaxing ambiance of soothing artwork and tea-inspired calm. Food tours appeal both to seasoned travelers as well as newcomers to a region or city. If you've been there before, you're looking for something different. If you're new, a good tasting tour will give you highlights of places to eat and offer a pleasant overview of the city and its life, history, ethnicity and neighborhoods. Expect a bit of background, anecdotes, personal history as you skip from humble to lavish stops. ROGER'S  Chocolates is dripping with Victorian charm -- an old-fashioned candy shop with a fragrant array of intoxicating chocolates for every taste. And Churchill Pub rounds out the tour -- a real English-feeling drinking house with sturdy wooden booths and a beautiful bar. This was the only time Andy participated, having a small sample of a local brew. Six or seven stops are offered with a changing repertoire depending on time of year, fresh produce and Olson's whims.  Tours are balanced to provide a filling "meal" in sensible, small portions over the allotted time. The Churchill, a traditional English pub, is a stop in the fast-paced and varied "Taste of Victoria Food Tour." OLSON'S foodie orbit embraces his own personal wide-ranging culinary tastes, traditional specialties and time honored treats. He's also on the lookout for new dining options to show off the varied heritage of Victoria. The food tour always includes Asian fare, important because immigrants from the Far East helped build the city.  We enjoyed all seven tastings. Not a clunker in the bunch. "Fantastic food tour with delightful tastings, heaping helpings of world culture, and enthusiasm for Victoria's past and present," Keller said. He pronounced the two-plus hour event "great fun, for first-timers to Victoria, or return guests looking for something new."  www.atasteofvictoriafoodtours.com  (250)893-9815 UP NEXT: Animal lovers know that there's nothing more traumatic and sad than losing a beloved pet. We have had dogs all our lives -- 19 between the two of us (Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller.) Our times with Yorkshire terriers Nick and Nora are a huge part of our life together, so we share a recent tragedy with fellow pet owners in our May 26 post. We have a feeling that thousands out there will find comfort in our story.  Remember to explore, learn, live, embrace the moment and catch us each week for a fresh spin on nature, family, pets, the arts, travel and more:  www.whereiscookie.com Yorkies Nora, left, and Nick, devoted and beloved by Cookie and Keller. Nora crossed the Rainbow Bridge two years ago and a new chapter unfolds May 26.

  • Take a tasty bite of Brisbane on a fun, enlightening food & history tour

    FOOD TOUR THINKS OUTSIDE THE BOX WITH A RANGE OF 'HIDDEN HAUNTS,'  LIVELY EATERIES & HISTORY LESSONS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Before and After bar features the erudite Riley, who takes tourists through a tangy tasting of Amaro, that distinctive and flavorful Italian aperitif. THERE ARE FOOD TOURS  and then there's Delectable Tours. As an outing, it's a prime cut, pure gourmet all the way.  It combines local offerings with history and a delightful sampling of the city's best food and drink. The owner of this small, creative business in Brisbane, Australia, thinks outside the box. Jamie-Lee Howard loves her job -- giving visitors a memorable time while showing off Queensland's best culinary offerings. A fascinating  history lesson is served along the way by this animated   entrepreneur who knows and loves Brisbane. You can't go wrong in her company, for she serves an easily digestible mix of history and her city's past, choosing stops at some of the best of Brisbane's contemporary food scene.   Brisbane at night is a sight to behold, a city of four million with a wealth of colorful eateries. WHAT'S YOUR PLEASURE ? Coffee, gin, seafood, fresh produce, Asian fare, gourmet, family style? Name your field of interest and she'll arrange a tailored tour. Or you can choose from an appealing variety of existing tours all designed with charm in mind, plus a nod to the local food ecosystem and its workers. WE BEGAN in Before and After, a gem of a cocktail bar where host Riley greeted us to chat about the various specialty Amari, those tawny brown spicy infusions perfected by Italy. We nibbled on a delectable grilled cheese sandwich complemented by samplings of that flavorful, herbaceous Italian liqueur. Brisbane is a mecca of fun ethnic food from family places to elegant dining options, romantic couples' favorites, live music haunts and a range of other enticing Queensland eateries and bars. Here Doodee Boran diners enjoy a first-class variety of noodles, soups, curries and more. The sandwich oozed with warm, tasty Shropshire Blue cheese, the ambiance was exquisite with muted lighting, comfy seats and soft jazz music as Riley introduced us to various samplings. Delicious marinated olives rounded out the stop-- an enticing blend of fragrance, sights and tastes. MISS DEMEANOR  beckoned  for adventure's next chapter. This happening spot in Brisbane's colorful Laneway offers an appealing range of sharing options and main courses including what many consider the town's best loaded burger, succulent fresh fish and more.  The homemade chickpea falafels are gorgeous -- cooked to perfection and so satisfying we wanted to linger while the band tuned up with a jazzy guitar riff. Keller sipped a tangy IPA, one of dozens of beers offered, while I enjoyed an agreeable Te Mata Estate sauvignon blanc as we nibbled. The falafels are legendary here, the best we've had outside the Middle East, with perfectly spiced puree and dukkha -- nuts, and seeds seasoned and blended into a paste.  A mix of young and older folk visited and noshed.  Bruce Keller, Jamie-Lee Howard and Christene "Cookie" Meyers sample hidden gems of Brisbane's extraordinary food offerings in a delightful history-food walking tour. Howard grew up on a farm and her respect for those who toil to produce homegrown fare shines. "We want to give visitors more than simply a tasting of great food. We are about connecting with local producers, uncovering stories behind the dishes, exploring our culture through food, drink, fine cuisine," she says. THEN LIVELY  Doodee Boran eatery was next. It's a happy place, abuzz with families and small groups tucking in to the signature spiced raw salmon and succulent chicken pad Thai. A young family shared steaming prawns and fish balls while waiting to share main courses of artfully presented street fare. An older couple enjoyed a handsome whole barramundi, that delicious firm Asian sea bass. The place is fragrant and friendly. Servers are delightful -- their smiles and graciousness complement the scents of ginger, soy and garlic, all accented by happy chatter. Customer service is a crucial component to Howard's enterprise. A unique spin on the yummy Italian dessert, tiramisu, is made with matcha in one of Howard's fun food tours. LONGWANG  Restaurant was the perfect capper of a delightful afternoon. It's an upscale place with an eye-popping cocktail list to complement unique Asian cuisine. We tried a matcha spin on the classic tiramisu -- soothing, pretty and flavorful. We were stuffed and desired only mint tea, but Howard enticed us to share this classic Italian offering while other enthusiastic diners enjoyed late suppers and snacks. We saw an array of seared sea scallops, pork, prawns, wontons and dumplings. A smooth, fragrant black bean sauce  accented several dishes. The Queen Victoria monument was placed in Brisbane in 1906, a few years after her death. It is part of the city's history and our tour began here. We admired Howard's effortless bits of history of this Edward Street landmark eatery, which served Queensland's first Asian offerings and consistently wins awards. We learned that Longwang has roots in Chinese mythology, and the name pays homage to the revered Dragon King. SERVICE IN all four places was expertly offered, not pretentious or fussy but genuine, helpful, friendly and relaxed. Eateries are carefully screened for personality and customer service because Howard wants customers to return and tell their friends. As a small, independent business drawing support from both locals and tourists, word of mouth means everything. She aims for repeat customers and relies on social media endorsements. People like thoughtful commentary and succulent foods served in colorful and historic venues. Keller calls it "the best blend of ambiance, culinary art, history and tastes of the city's best offerings." You might walk by this unusual landmark, marking Brisbane's oldest lane, Burnett with plenty of street art and fun bars and eateries. Says Howard, "We get a lot of traffic from people who have been with us before, then come back and recommend us to friends, colleagues and family from all over the world. That makes me happy." Click here for more on Delectable Tours WHATS UP NEXT IN BLOGS FROM whereiscookie.com Actor Avery Johnson shares playbills for the 53rd season of Montana Shakespeare in the Parks, touring a five-state region. Shakespeare's educational wing, click here ON TAP:    Montana's beloved Shakespeare in the Parks is touring again this summer, visiting an impressive 60 towns in a five-state area with two classics from the Bard. We visit two of the venues, talk with the actors about the rigors of their schedule, and enjoy their offerings. Then we interview the owners of Big Timber's Grand Hotel, where a major facelift is underway in this historic 1890 property, beloved by locals and tourists alike.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance family and more: www.whereiscookie.com click here for more Cookie

  • Savannah food tour

    Savannah food tour mixes history, tastings, parks, monuments and more A happy, well fed group of travelers and foodies finish a fun Savannah tasting tour, with guide Brenden Davis giving the enthusiastic group a "thumbs up" send-off. SAVANNAH FOOD TOUR OFFERS DELECTABLE TASTINGS, LIVELY COMMENTARY, HISTORY, FACTS, AND WALKING TO WORK IT OFF Food tour participants sweetened their day with tastings of delicious honeys at Capital Bee Company in Savannah . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE'RE FOOD tour junkies. We love tasting new dishes, dining in small, interesting cafes and restaurants, visiting places where the locals hang out.  Christene digs into a double-fried pork chop with a tangy sauce. WHEREVER WE GO  in the world, we try to work a food tour into our visit. We've sampled tapas in Barcelona, crab cakes and key lime pie in Fort Lauderdale and Key West, sushi in Kyoto and fish and chips in London. All on food and walking tours. Zunzi's chicken sandwich has a double sauce with a four-letter-word that locals love to order . Our latest culinary adventure was in Savannah, where tastings ranged from a tasty chicken sandwich with two sauces at Zunzi's, to a satisfying double-fried pork chop, honey straight from the hive, a southern style taco with peach salsa, the best grits and shrimp we've sampled, and irresistible ice cream.  Delectable shrimp and grits, served in a creamy sauce at 22 Square, named after the square it is near, and a Savannah favorite.      A GOOD GUIDE makes a food tour work.  Sure, the food is important.  But having a lively, knowledgeable guide is the key to a successful, enjoyable tour where participants learn something about the city as well as its culinary offerings. Food served with fun and facts! We hit the food tour jackpot with our excellent guide, Brenden Davis.  His genial manner, knowledge of Savannah's finest eats, and a keen sense of humor kept us amused while we tasted and strolled this historic and beautifully designed city.  Davis has a background in radio and TV and is an experienced actor as well.   Zunzi's chicken sandwich comes with 2 sauces.Its moniker is  four-letter word starting with "s" because when a customer asked if he could have two sauces, the waiter said "s*** yeah."  FOOD, FUN, FACTS HIS TASTE  Experience is all its title implies. The "experience" began at Zunzi's, with Davis introducing himself and giving each of us a turn at introduction. Then a sketch of his own life and background -- he's from Detroit and broke with family tradition to eschew a law or medical degree in favor of  radio, improv and comedy. Before we munched a delicious chicken sandwich, he gave us an overview of central Savannah and its art, architecture and history. Then we strolled to the other five stops, continuing our delightful culinary extravaganza. Besides the leisurely look around the downtown, the tour included a half-dozen of Savannah's most interesting eateries. Savannah Taste Experience is a perfect way to enjoy the city's finest and most fun fare, and learn something about the town. BEFORE EACH stop, Davis offered casual commentary.  Fancy Parker's Urban Gourmet, he explained, is famous for its made-from-scratch Southern-inspired food.  It's an expansive, inviting space where locals and visitors come for addictive double-fried pork chops and other specialties for breakfast, lunch, dinner or late-night snacks. It's not all fried options; add beautiful salads, "she crab" and more. The place was originally an 1899 gas station.  Then on to Capital Bee Company, which rose to local fame with its attractive array of honeys -- more than 30 -- all pollinated by Georgia bees on flowers ranging from the rare to the abundant. Tacos southern style are a Savannah favorite, Davis explained. The state's famous Georgia peach is the main ingredient in a spicy salsa gracing our tasty tacos at Java Burrito Company. 22 SQUARE offered the best grits we've tasted -- with a creamy butter and cream sauce and perfectly cooked shrimp. We came back the next day for dinner. A dish of Leopold's Ice cream ended our gastronomic romp at the Savannah Taste Experience Marketplace/ Brenden Davis offers commentary, humor, history and fun food facts on a lively tour. The company offers several other tours besides the one we enjoyed. Each focuses on a different aspect of southern life, particularly life in Savannah. The tours include Southern Fried, First Squares, Port City and Walktails and Barbites (an inviting happy hour tour.) The enterprise also has a fun book, "Savannah Food:  A Delicious History," available on Amazon  A lovely complement to the food tastings is a chance to learn something about the history of charming Savannah.    The tours are reasonably priced because the tastings make for a fine meal. The groups are kept small -- usually no more than 10 or 12.   Prices range from $52 to $79, a bargain. We booked on line, or you can call: 912 221-4439 www.savannahtasteexperience.com info@SavannahTasteExperience.com     Savannah's Mercer Williams House is eye catching and a much loved landmark. NEXT UP:  A city of grace and history, Savannah has much to recommend it, from lively theater and   restaurants to a world class contemporary art museum and an abundance of homes with   fascinating pasts.  There's a terrific trolley,  ghost tours and   harbor cruises.   Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fun, fresh look at the arts, nature, travel, family and more.

  • Gaudi's genius is on showy display in masterful Barcelona architecture

    Architect's imagination and reverence for nature highlight his 'La Pedrera,' in Barcelona STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a moment of reflection outside Gaudi's Casa Mila, or "La Pedrera." The curved "attic" of Casa Mila is a museum on its own, with drawings, exhibits and models showing the profound influence nature had on Gaudi's life's work. WHEN THE brilliant architect Antoni Gaudi was struck by a tram on a pleasant June morning in 1926, he had no identification on his body. He rested unknown in a morgue for several days while officials tried to identify him. The great man was walking to his daily confessional at a nearby church when tragedy befell him. When it was discovered that he was an internationally known architect -- one of the city's proudest sons -- he was mourned for weeks. Today, he is still celebrated as a genius.  His work is acclaimed for its grace, originality and connection to nature, evident in its nods to the sea and its creatures, and to birds, flowers, trees, and all living things. WE SPENT a recent week marveling at Gaudi's wondrous accomplishments. He viewed the natural world as perfect, a creation from which he drew his inspiration. This connection is visible in all his work but critics believe it is most present in his masterpiece, Barcelona's famous Sagrada Familia. The cathedral has been in constant development since its foundation was laid in 1883.  Its completion -- many times delayed -- is now scheduled for 2026, on the 100th anniversary of the great artist's death. MUCH OF Gaudí's career was occupied with the construction of the Sagrada Família, his "over the top" cathedral where pineapples and the Virgin Mary peacefully coexist. It's difficult to name a favorite of Gaudi's magnificent buildings.  Tourists flock to his famous Sagrada, but grand as it is, it is not our favorite of his works. We've spent several relaxing afternoons at his fanciful Park Güell, and at the better part of a day each at two stunning homes he designed in downtown Barcelona: Casa Milá and Casa Batlló, an important pair of modernist buildings.  Looking to the sky, as he often way, Antoni Gaudi celebrated light and nature in his magnificent open-air view skyward. This sixth visit to Barcelona, we concentrated on Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera, which means "stone quarry" and celebrates Gaudi's Catalan heritage and love of landscape. Known today as the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism, Gaudí is honored for his individuality and his unique style. Most of his most famous creations are in Barcelona, one of the reasons we return so often. Nearby Casa Batllo's roof is a fanciful place, representing scales on a dragon's back.     Above, a storage closet in La Pedrera gives insight into the life of a wealthy family in Barcelona nearly a century ago. At right, the life of Gaudi is shared in books in many languages, with t-shirts and art for sale, too. Some think the shapes of Gaudi's top floor art in Casa Mila represent the scales of lizards or creatures of the sea, serpents or mythical beings. LA PEDRERA - - meaning “the stone quarry” because of its unusual rough-hewn appearance, is more commonly called Casa Milá and is one of Barcelona’s most popular modernist buildings. UNESCO recognized it as a World Heritage site in 1984. Built between 1906 and 1912, the magical structure came to life when clients gave him a limitless budget and reign to do something "wonderful and different." It housed several apartments and  was  Gaudí’s last private residential design. Many consider it the most imaginative house in the history of architecture, one which continues to influence architects today. It is truly more a sculpture than a building. The façade is a varied and harmonious mass of undulating stone that, along with forged iron balconies, explores the irregularities of the natural world. Other Spanish artists gained fame in their experimental work, too. MANY PEOPLE wonder if Gaudi and Salvador Dali were friends, and if they endorsed one another's work. The much older Gaudi was born in 1852 and Dali was born in 1904. One wonders, then, if either man knew Picasso, born in 1881, between the two other famed artists.  The rooftop of Casa Mila. While Gaudí and Dali were buddies, often complimenting each other's work, Picasso and Gaudí did not see eye to eye. Both made art their life's work, but while Gaudi didn't criticize fellow artists and visionaries, Picasso spent a lot of time dissing the Sagrada Família, Gaudí's magnum opus. Gaudi didn't return the barbs, remaining a man of deep faith, honoring the credo of tolerance and forgiveness.   He was in fact on his way to mass, his daily ritual, when he was struck by the tram. Only when his housekeeper reported him missing did officials figure out who he was. La Pedrera was fashioned into several apartments by Gaudi, and is now used for fundraisers and as a museum. Gaudi's architecture is distinctive in its use of curves inspired by his view of nature. GAUDI'S LIFE'S work is a celebration of nature and the natural world.  The only woman he loved, historians tell us, did not return his affections. (She was a divorced teacher whom he met during one of his early projects.) Much has been written about his art -- but there isn't much to tell about his personal life since he remained single and devoted his life to his art and private commissions. barcelonaturisme.com visitbarcelona.com Accomplished actor John Rubinstein endows his character, Dwight D. Eisenhower, with wit, intelligence and confidence in a stellar performance beautifully directed by Peter Ellenstein.   BEST BET:  A world premier in an intimate Los Angeles theater offers play lovers an engaging immersion in history via a close encounter with our 34th President. "Eisenhower:  This Piece of Ground" is Richard Hellesen's fascinating opus about a war hero turned world leader.  Tony award winning actor John Rubinstein endows Ike with humanity, humor and intelligence in this captivating one-man production at Hudson's MainStage Theatre.  Peter Ellenstein directs this graceful, amusing and informative immersion which explains why the five-star general is now regarded as a great president. More info: www.onstage411.com/eisenhower A Brazilian guide in Porto, Portugal, took us around the city to its bridges, museums, eateries and special unknown corners.  Tune in next week for "free tours" tips. UP NEXT : Free tours. From the far north of Europe to the southern reaches of Spain's Canary Islands, free tours are becoming the rage. Many cities around the world now offer no-fee walking and sightseeing tours.  The trend of ‘'free'’ walking tours began in Berlin in 2004 and has spread to over 40 cities around the world, including nearly every major tourist destination in Europe. We give pointers on finding them, and suggestions for tipping the well informed guides, who rely on and deserve generous gratuities. They live on our tips. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for fresh spins on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

  • No place like London for mixing new and old: history, food, theater, architecture, excitement

    London's skyline is a striking commentary on architectural evolution. This street scene illustrates the blend of history and innovation. With dozens of medieval landmarks like the Tower of London, there are beautiful modern buildings such as The Shard, with 26 stories, dozens of restaurants, residential living and a five-star hotel. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" "THERE"S NO PLACE like London." That a line sung by a young sailor named Anthony Hope as he marvels at London in Stephen Sondheim's brilliant musical, "Sweeney Todd." It's a line we utter each time we visit this exciting city of nine million. We, too, are enamored. With a rich history dating back centuries and its exciting blend of contemporary and medieval buildings, it never fails to engage the traveler. Thousands gathered in the Mall outside Buckingham Palace to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's record-setting 70 years on the throne. A Royal Air Force "fly past" noted the occasion. THE ENGLISH city dates back to Roman times.  It has seen coronations, beheadings, royal weddings and many governments. A terrible fire in 1666 nearly leveled the town and left thousands homeless. As the capital of England and the United Kingdom, it has rebuilt and thrived, surviving war, plague and political turmoil. Today, millions of travelers count it as a favorite city for its wonderful delightful mix of theater, neighborhoods, architecture, museums and some of the world's best ethnic food. London's train stations are a world unto themselves. Street scenes highlight modern buildings and stately old ones, famous cathedrals and historic bars and restaurants. School groups on tour in the foreground mix with travelers, shoppers, businessmen and tourists. WE RECOMMEND taking organized tours to make the most of your time. Two in particular are favorites: exploring and hopping on and off London's Big Bus and taking a food tour with London's Eating Europe. On our fun day with Eating Europe, Alexander brought London's east end to life, regaling us with anecdotes and insights into kings, queens, scoundrels, lords, ladies, and ladies of the evening. Our gastronomic-history adventure stopped at elegant eateries, casual fish and chips joints as well as London's oldest pub, "Ten Bells," where in 1881, Jack the Ripper lured prostitute victims, to their grim deaths. Poppies in London has multiple locations and is famous for its paper-wrapped fish and chips. Here, "Keller and Cookie" await their order. WHATEVER YOU do in London, you'll be entertained and likely want to return. We have visited two dozen times, and will return in a few days. London has it all: food stores, festivals, buskers, bustling energy, world class theater and museums, nightlife, parks and distinctive neighborhoods with welcoming pubs and architectural wonders. Once you visit, you'll understand young Andrew's fascination and agree "there's no place like London." London's Big Bus tour stops at many famous landmarks, offering a comprehensive overview. Here, the Shard looms, with London's best viewing. MORE INFO : www.bigbustourslondon www.eatingeuropelondon ************************************************************ Famed cowboy artist Charlie Russell lived in Great Falls, Montana, for much of his life. His home is preserved at the C.M. Russell Museum, Great Falls. UP NEXT: We're always on the move, with the world our oyster. In the next few weeks, we're touting the pleasures of traveling with kids, touring a museum dedicated to the works of cowboy artist C.M. "Charlie" Russell, cavorting in Europe, meeting the Komodo Dragon and surviving in Indonesia, and celebrating the New Year with fireworks, fanfare and contemplation. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us each Thursday for a fresh look at travel, the arts, performance, nature, family and more.

  • Thanksgiving feasting abroad: Find a fun place for a meal or snack to make a holiday special even where Thanksgiving isn't celebrated

    Cookie's favorite Thanksgiving meal is not turkey -- although it is available on cruise ships and in many hotels catering to Americans on Thanksgiving. It's rare lamb chops with asparagus, lentils and a balsamic drizzle. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" TRAVEL IS FUN  for us, and no part of travel is more pleasurable than exploring the gastronomic pleasures of far-away places. Especially on holidays, a special meal is a highlight of the trip. We love watching what the locals order in European restaurants, and aren't shy about asking a fellow diner what that attractive offering on his freshly served plate is. A breakfast buffet in Tarragona, made a Thanksgiving morning special in Spain. HERE ARE  a few tips for dining abroad on Thanksgiving or any holiday. May they broaden your tastes -- and not your waistline -- without flattening your wallet, and make you a bit more adventuresome on the road.  * Use your concierge.  Hotels are proud of this amenity and the concierge is often the most knowledgeable person in the hotel when it comes to good places to dine and celebrate a holiday.  He or she will also know which places cater to locals, or where you might find other Americans -- whatever your preference. We prefer local favorites, not tourist traps. Cookie and Keller enjoy a leisurely Thanksgiving weekend lunch in Monterosso. It's not a holiday in Cinque Terre but they made it one by celebrating.  * We've found our most relaxing meals in Europe are off-season (before the Memorial Day holiday, when you can find succulent spring produce and Easter feasts, and after Labor Day through our Thanksgiving weekend which is not a holiday in many places.  You'll miss the huge crowds and find restaurants less busy and staff more accommodating.   In France, Italy and Spain in November, chefs, restaurateurs and key suppliers are not as taxed as in summer months when Americans flock to Europe. So October and November are our favorite times to be there. Much of Asia and Australia experience delightful weather then. * C check addresses and  opening-closing hours. If you have your heart set on a particular restaurant, make sure it is open! Consider bar food and appetizers instead of a full meal. A memorable Thanksgiving dinner can be enjoyed on a a cruise. Here, Amarylla, Ellen, Robbie and Christene celebrate on Celebrity's Century. * Keep an eye on key dates for religious festivals, public holidays, big  soccer and other sporting events. We also avoid places with televisions -- or you might find your bistro turned into a  World Cup screening room. Go back a street or two from the main drag. Look for an outing to make your Thanksgiving or other holiday special. Here we enjoyed a wine tasting with a sommelier in southern France. He gave tips and made reservations for a dinner later. We pay attention to street stalls and markets and look for menu items featuring those ingredients. *Cruises are a great place for holiday meals. They always celebrate our USA holidays with special foods, even if they aren't American based. Always ask your waiter to recommend your appetizer, entree and dessert.  He knows what the food looks like in the kitchen and what the chefs put their most energy into.  ************************************************************ UP NEXT: There's no place like London. That a line from a Sweeney Todd lyric in "Sweeney Todd," but it's a line we've uttered many times in visiting this exciting city. The English city dates back to Roman times, with a rich history and a terrible fire that nearly leveled the town. As the capital of England and the United Kingdom, it has seen coronations, beheadings, royal weddings and a many governments. It has survived war and political turmoil and we count it as a favorite city -- for its wonderful theater, neighborhoods and delightful mix of ethnic food. Westminster Abbey is a much photographed London building, scene of many historic events.

  • Flamenco feast in Spain features performances of famous showy art form

    Flamenco dancers dazzle with their movements and hypnotic footwork. CENTURIES OLD DANCE TRADITION LIVES ON IN ENGAGING SPANISH VENUES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The swirling and twirling of scarves is part of the flamenco tradition. AS A YOUNG  bride on honeymoon in Granada, I witnessed my first flamenco dance. I was mesmerized. The dancers were a mix of ages and shapes, but all had the expressive moves down pat -- their arms and feet moving in time to the intricate footwork, shawls whipping around their bodies. From our center table in a small dimly lit cafe, we could see the facial expressions and drops of sweat. I pressed a flower that flew from the head of one of the dancers during an intricate move. Dancers take individual bows at the end of each piece. THE TIME  honored dance form became famous in Spain but reflects contributions from many other world cultures.  It usually features a solo performer, backed by musicians and sometimes a partner.  Hand clapping and that distinctive percussive footwork give flamenco its flair, enhanced by intricate hand, arm, and body movements.     Today's flamenco reflects music of Latin American, Cuban, African and Jewish traditions.  It was originally not set to music but was accompanied by emotional singing and clapping of hands called “toque de palmas." The company takes bows on stage, with the featured singer in the center here. IN OUR  annual forays to southern Spain, we always include at least one night of flamenco. On this most recent trip, we gilded the flamenco lily, choosing two very different cities and several venues to enjoy this integral part of Andalucian culture. Both Barcelona and Malaga offer fine flamenco options. One can find as many definitions of flamenco as there are tapas bars.  Most scholars agree that flamenco is composed of four elements: voice, or cante; dance, or baile; guitar, or toque, and "jaleo," which roughly translated means "hell raising."  Clapping, stomping, shouts of encouragement to the featured dancer convey the emotion of the numbers, often laments about life's sorrows and the human condition. Flamenco guitarists and rhythm makers are an integral part of every flamenco show. Dancers, singers and musicians share a final bow. One of our shows, "Encuentros en la cumbre del baile," or Encounters at the pinnacle of dance, featured two of Spain's most famous flamenco dancers, Miguel "El Rubio" and Palmoa Fantova, backed by Maria Carmona and Sara Barrero. Another show, "Tablao Flamenco Cordobes," promised to convey the mystery of flamenco's singing and poetry -- paying homage to Gypsy, Moorish, and Andalusian folklore. As our waiter said, "flamenco is an outcry, an expression of love and pain, or enjoyment and happiness.  It is meant to be felt, not necessarily understood." More information: to find flamenco on the web, google the city and flamenco:   flamencomalaga.com       flamencobarcelona.com   All aboard next week for tips on Eurail travel with our team, Cookie and Keller, exploring the world with enthusiasm. UP NEXT : Eurail was the way to see Europe for many young Americans in the 1970s. Our two young at heart travelers take to Eurail again, so all aboard with tips on seeing Europe anew again by train. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more at whereiscookie.com

  • Emotional flamenco, fado speak to the soul in Spain and Portugal

    Flamenco -- that showy, colorful dance of southern Spain --  is performed with rhythmic clapping and instruments. Swirling scarves and lacy skirts and ruffles are part of this Barcelona performance. Southern Spain, Portugal present emotional flamenco, fado, with flair, feeling, for deeply stirring shows STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Fado in Porto is a revered tradition, here at the Ideal Club de Fado, which is a formal setting, more concert hall. than bar. MUSIC AND DANCE have long helped us understand and interpret culture. These art forms skirt across language barriers and head straight for the heart. From the chants of the Buddhist monks to the native American's war dance, to the cantor's song to lead the congregation, music is a metaphor for what we stand for and believe in. The roots of flamenco are mysterious -- not unlike the dance itself. But the beginning of the wildly rhythmic accompanied dance seems to be in the Roma migration from Rajasthan of northwest India to Spain. That was sometime between the 9th and 14th centuries.  These migrants brought musical instruments --tambourines, bells, and wooden castanets -- to complement an extensive repertoire of songs and dances adapted through centuries to today's flamenco. IN PORTUGAL , fado's history is a bit more recent, around 1820. It can be presented in a formal program or organized restaurant act.  It can also unfold in impromptu fashion, a gathering among friends at a tavern -- usually after a number of adult beverages. We've heard fado sung in restaurants and cafes, gardens, bullfights, streets and alleys. Officially, though, it features a singer Flamenco is presented here, "Tablao Flamenco Cordobes," with spirited dancers, musicians and singers, who also provide rhythmic clapping and chanting. -- male or female -- and two guitarists. One plays the rhythm and bass guitar and one plays the lyrical Portuguese guitar, also called fado guitar. It's a large, resonating instrument with 6 pairs of strings and a pear-shaped harmonic box.  It was fun to see and hear so many very different fado shows -- a wild range -- from a formal setting in a guitar museum in Porto to a small, smoky club in Lisbon with only a few tables. We also heard fado at an outdoor restaurant where the singers moved from table to table. WE TOOK  in a total of five fado shows and concerts --  one nearly every other night -- during our two-week stay in Portugal. The venues ranged from that intimate cafe with lots of drinking, merriment and only a few tables, to the more dignified guitar museum venue in Porto with a glass of port daintily served  at intermission and the audience quietly respectful. In Malaga, we've experienced two wonderful flamenco shows at Tablao Flamenco Alegria Malaga. Flamenco Malaga is also inviting, a smaller venue in a restored mansion. Both offer changing repertoire and are worthy representations of this time honored artform.  Flamenco in Malaga: authentic, enchanting. "Keller and Cookie" at fado in A Baiuca, in Lisbon's famous old Alfama. In Lisbon we tried a fado show in A Baiuca, a lively tonic to jet lag. The house is small with only a few tables, and the lead singer is in her 80s.  It was a treat to watch her mingle with the crowd before the show, and during the breaks, as the musicians showed their instrumental stuff and gave her a break.   THE PORTUGUESE love their fado, as Spaniards adore flamenco. Presenting fado shows in their purest form is a specialty of the beautiful Casa da Guitarra.  The museum displays dozens of beautifully restored guitars which focuses on the plucked string instrument so connected to fado but offers much more than guitars. This fado singer is past 80 and still entertaining at A Baiuca. This unique museum developed an acoustically perfect place to hear the art form in its pure, traditional sense.  Deep in Lisbon's Al Fama, its oldest area, a fado club is indoors with a larger venue in the outdoor plaza. Before the concert, we admired various traditional guitars like the viola braguesa or the viola campaniça -- learning that viola means guitar in Portuguese. The acoustic and classical guitars, mandolins and acoustic bass guitars are all exquisite instruments built in Portugal.  A Severa fado show has been around since 1955, and is one of the best known in Lisbon. THEN IT  was show time as a singer delivered a dozen heartfelt songs -- eyes closed, shawl tightly held. The two art forms -- fado and flamenco -- are time honored and youngsters are taught reverence for them at an early age. Flamenco in Barcelona is the Spanish expression of emotion and soul. Here, a rousing show at popular Flamenco Cordobes. Many young flamenco dancers begin as students of their moms, aunties, even  grandmothers. Fado in Portugal reflects the culture's belief in destiny and a deep sense of fate. In Spain, flamenco speaks to the human condition, too. But in flamenco, singing is secondary to the dance with its astonishing tapping and clicking. The singing -- as in fado -- has a sometimes tormented sound -- poignant but sad.  Said our singer friend, "Flamenco can be a song of love -- for a partner or mother, -- it can also express pain and heartbreak." FARM WORKERS  tired of toiling, rejected lovers, lonely travelers missing their homeland -- all have flamenco and fado interpretations.   Flamenco Cordobes is perhaps Barcelona's most famous flamenco venue and we've made several pilgrimages over the years of visiting this famous city. It is located deep down and slightly off  "La Rambla," or Las Ramblas, that famous tree-lined pedestrian street winding nearly a mile through town. We like Cordobes because it offers delightful authentic food, then spirited flamenco and world class dancers and singers. Says our friend, "There's a magic to flamenco because it comes from deep emotion." In flamenco, the phrase is "el duende," meaning mystery, excitement, magic. IN FLAMENCO, each story comes to life in song, guitar and dance. As with fado, all this is usually accompanied by copious wine and sometimes tears, but always applause, shouts and whistles.  When visiting all three cities this piece highlights -- Lisbon, Porto and Barcelona -- we recommend the invaluable city cards, which save time and money on venues and transportation and give entertainment options.  More information or to book fado in Porto and Lisbon, and flamenco in Malaga or Barcelona: www.barcelonaturisme.com     visitbarcelona.com www.flamencomalaga.com www.portocvb.com   www.portocitycard        www.lisboacard.org www.casadaguitarra.pt   info@asevera.com   www.portocvb.com     www.visitlisboa.com   www.tablaocordobes.com www.getyourguide.com/lisbon-l42/fado-shows-tc273/ . BEST BET: Southern California theater lovers are laughing themselves silly at "Into the Breeches!" at North Coast Repertory Theatre. A crack cast, lively pace and touching story coalesce in this romp set in WWII New England. With the men at war, woman take over a struggling theater to keep it afloat while the fellas are "over there." Gender-bending wisdom and humor --  smoothly directed -- make this play both timely and timeless. The varied Rep season showcases classics, new work, comedy and musicals -- "Pippin" to "The Cherry Orchard." For tickets, call 858 481-1055.   Or:   northcoastrep.org  The run is through Nov. 13.   Amsterdam's canals are legendary, and form the heart of this picturesque Dutch city. We spent four days on these waters, here the "Seven Sisters" on the Amstel River. UP NEXT : Amsterdam beckons. We move north in Europe, setting off on the canals which we recently explored for four sunny early autumn days. The famous canals of Amsterdam are a lifeline for commerce, tourism and socializing. We look at them and their amazing construction, and catch native Dutch folks and tourists out on a sunny fall day. Come along, enjoy the water.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more: AND PLEASE,  share the links. www.whereiscookie.com

  • Barcelona beckons with its architectural charm

    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Fanciful balconies of Antoni Gaudi's Casa Batllo are made of stone and shell-shaped, reflecting the architect's marine inspiration. Tours are available. We recommend the Barcelona tourism card. MANY CITIES in the world boast of an architectural theme, a cohesive style. A distinct design plan inevitably catches the eye and satisfies the viewer. For us, the list includes Rome, New York, Jerusalem, Chicago and Singapore. There are many other cities whose design is pleasing and seems to work together to impress the viewer. Bar celona stands out in this regard for the colorful, organic, nature-inspired forms of designer and architect Antoni Gaudi. For many, Barcelona is Gaudi, and vice-versa. Gaudi's Park Guell is a fantastic mecca of the architect's playful imagination and love of nature., here enjoyed by Bruce Keller and Cookie. His Catalan Modernist style is known worldwide for its ornate detail and pleasing shapes resembling shells and sea creatures, trees and flowers. We've visited Sagrada Familia and Park Guell many times, but our favorite Gaudi inspirations are those designed as homes for aristocratic Barcelonans, Casa Batllo and Casa Mila or La Pedrera . Barcelona's Palau De La Musica Catalana is one of Barcelona's many inventive architectural creations. BEYOND GAUDI , the city showcases a rich mix of styles, including medieval architecture, Art Nouveau elegance as seen in the gorgeous Palau De La Musica Catalana, and an array of modern 21st Century towers and business centers. Barcelona's creative spirit and interesting history have created a striking blend of historic and contemporary buildings. In short, Barcelona is a vibrant urban landscape unique to Europe and the world. A stroll along Barcelona's streets reveals stately buildings, wide boulevards, gardens and fountains. More information on Barcelona and the money-saving Barcelona tourist card: www.barcelonatourisme.com UP NEXT: Thanksgiving is upon is. That traditional American holiday is around the corner, with family and friends gathering in familiar places to enjoy too much good food and one another's company. But what if you find yourself abroad during the holiday, and still wish to make it special and toast our American tradition? We have answers and fun suggestions for a good read wherever you spend the day. Thanksgiving in Turkey was a fun way to try appetizers. We don't necessarily have a full meal when we're celebrating a holiday abroad.

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