Search Results

Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller stroll the waterfront in Key West, readying to sail.  U.S. TRAVELERS ARE LUCKY TO HAVE THE LIVELY YET LAID BACK FLORIDA KEYS IN OUR BACK YARD STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" The Conch Train is a well loved travel option downtown. WHEN ONE yearns for balmy breezes, fun food and the soothing sound of the sea, it's not necessary to book a ticket to Fiji, the Canaries or French Polynesia. Those are beautiful places, but with the time, angst and red tape necessary to enjoy foreign travel, U.S. citizens looking for somewhere close can't do better than Key West, Florida. Key West charms are abundant OUR COUNTRY'S  southernmost subtropical paradise is a unique blend of all that we seasoned travelers yearn for: perfect climate, the beauty of nature on both land and sea, flowers galore, cultural diversity, history, and a romantic appeal that one usually has to go to another continent to enjoy. Cookie shows her ticket to board Old Town Trolley. One of its stops is Hampton Inn near the water. ALL OF THAT MAKES Key West attractive to us, with one huge additional advantage.  We're still in the good old U.S., and don't have to fill out entry forms and paperwork to experience the new. It's fairly easy to head for south Florida. The many Key West charms include its wide array of enticements. They combine to give the town enormous appeal. Coffee is a huge industry in Key West, and you'll find coffee stores as well as cafes serving the sweet, strong and pungent Cuban coffee.  There's the exotic amenities one looks for in foreign travel: interesting architecture, new food options, history with an opportunity to learn, top hotels, comforting familiar language and enlightening nature experiences. There's also a fine butterfly conservatory and world-famous museums, including Mel Fisher's fascinating one, where one views artfully curated treasures found on the shipwrecked Atocha. If you want to see the sights without the expense of renting a car, the wonderful Old Town Trolley offers is a delightful way to get around with access to nearly everything of interest. Old town Trolley gives bird's eye views of homes, museums . It picked us up at our Hampton Inn to transit famous Key West streets and squares, popular local places and tourist attractions ranging from the fine Key West Aquarium, Key West Lighthouse, the shops and restaurants of Mallory Square and other historical and entertaining places.   Sunset sails are a popular Key West option. Close-up of a cigar poster, touting the stogie grown from Cuban seeds, but on other Latin American soils . Salvaged from the Spanish ship, Atocha, pottery display in the fine Mel Fisher Museum. Key West's history is filled with drama and the amiable, well informed trolley guides share the history with colorful anecdotes, engaging stories and humorous asides. You'll see the coffee shop where President Harry Truman ditched the secret service at his Florida White House to share a morning cuppa with Florida friends. You'll see key lime pie adverts and get tips on the best places. You'll stop near Ernest Hemingway's lovely home and see how the writer lived and worked -- with his adored six-toed cats.  A wonderful museum is housed in a historic building run by the non-profit Key West Art and Historical Society. This handsome rooster and all chickens are protected in Key West. OTHER TOWNS in the U.S. -- including our own San Diego -- have successfully introduced Old Town Trolley.  The entertaining trolley operation also runs in Savannah, Washington D.C., St. Augustine, Boston and Nashville.  Key West is an artistic town, with galleries and museums showcasing everything from shipwreck treasures to carvings and paintings. Cigar making was once a huge industry in Key West and Island Cigar Company still sells them. Key West has a rich cigar history, but most stogies in the Keys are now made in other parts of Latin America with tobacco grown from Cuban seeds. Watersports abound in Key West, with sunset sails, dolphin and snorkel watching, eco and paddleboard tours and many other options, including a wonderful rare opportunity to sail on General George Patton's custom made schooner "When and If," which he designed and hoped to sail with his wife around the world "when and if" World War II ended. Sadly, Patton died in 1945 and didn't accomplish his world sailing tour.  He did sail it up and down the East Coast, and Chesapeake Bay, and down into Key West, according to biographers. (More about this lovely boat later.) Among many historic buildings, this one is theoriginal office of Pan American World Airways. It is now First Flight, a brewery and restaurant. For more info:  https://fla-keys.com/key-west/ www.hilton.com/en/hotels/eywkkhx-hampton-key-west/ www.historictours.com www.keywestchamber.org   https://www.trolleytours.com/key-west www.furycat.com www.keywestbutterfly.com www.sunsetsailkeywest.com   www.kwahs.org/museums/custom-house/visit www.sunsetwatersportskeywest.com   The Hemingway Home and Museum showcases the author'sliterary memorabilia, awards, collectibles, portraits, history of his several wives and his unusual six-toed cat progeny.  UP NEXT: Our visit to Key West and the Florida Keys continues with a look at two famous fellows who loved the place.  Famed author Ernest Hemingway lived many years in Key West, and President Harry S. Truman set up a White House in this charming Florida town.  Both made friends with the locals and enjoyed the leisurely, warm and inviting life the climate and temperament offer. Descendants of Hemingway's famed six-toed cats  roam the place as privileged, pampered pets. Truman's beloved vacation home gives insight into why he loved Key West.  Both homes are interesting museums. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at travel, nature, family, the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie joined thousands of other Jazzercise dancers on the USS Midway in San Diego, to fight breast cancer. COME JOIN, GET FIT, JAZZ IT UP!  Here's how Jazzercise helped one woman survive widowhood twice -- and more International fitness program fosters friendships, is good for what ails you  (This story first appeared in 2013.  It is having a second life thanks to national interest in a Jazzercise star, 96-year old singer Betty Lowe. Cookie's Jazzercise moves around, like she does. The Moose Lodge venue is no more but Cookie is at Jazzercise Carmel Valley and Morena Blvd.) Judi Sheppard Missett, founder of Jazzercise, was interviewed by Cookie many years ago for an airline magazine article on fitness. They reconnected during a Jazzercise fundraiser on the Midway in San Diego in 2016.  STORY and PHOTOS By CHRISTENE MEYERS and BRUCE KELLER Jazzercise was born in California. This group works out in San Diego. That's Debbie Walters in the center, one of Cookie's Jazzercise coaches. GETTING UP,  getting active, getting your fanny to exercise. That's the challenge for millions of us who embrace daily fitness rituals. Like most good habits, they become a valued part of our routine because they improve our lives. No, it's not always easy to arise, get dressed, grab a coffee or banana and get your weary self to exercise. But when we do, we're glad we did. SO IT IS  with my almost daily Jazzercise ritual. When I'm on the west coast, I rarely miss Jazzercise.  The San Diego area -- just south of the birthplace of Jazzercise in Carlsbad -- has several Jazzercise venues. I currently enjoy weekday Jazzercise in  Carmel Valley with Sharon Anthony-Ticho. Saturdays, I'm at the Musicians Union with Rick Nesbitt's group. I've danced with Jazzercise around the globe. Jazzercise, along with Nick and Nora and a desert garden helped Cookie recover from the loss of her second husband in Arizona. Jazzercise is welcoming, fun, reasonably priced and pleasantly addictive. It's also therapeutic. After the deaths of two husbands, Jazzercise helped me rebound. Travel, gardening, music and my Yorkies helped me regain health in the mountains of Montana and the Arizona desert. I'm especially grateful for Phoenix Jazzercise friends and empathic coaches P.K. Callison and Cindy Schulz who shared their studios and fitness tips to help heal body and soul! THROUGH JAZZERCISE,  I've met fellow teachers, artists, musicians, world travelers and writers, gardeners, gourmet cooks and bird watchers. I've found fellow play-and-opera goers, avid walkers and hikers through Jazzercise. In San Diego,  favorite Jazzercise venues are the Moose Hall on Ruffin Road, and the Musicians Union on Morena, near Mission Bay.  I've been following Sharon Ticho's Jazzercise because I like her style, enthusiasm and roster of teachers -- each unique and spirited. I first met Sharon when she subbed for my friend Debbie Walters at a funky Jazzercise venue with  a giant moose head San Diego Jazzercise instructor Debbie Walters was honored after class on her May birthday. overseeing our moves.  The Musicians Union has a beautiful wood floor and is light, airy and near the ocean. Both are fun with excellent coaches and enthusiastic followings. Some devotees, such as Betty Lowe featured here June 19, have been doing Jazzercise for decades. I've "jazzed" in New York state during my post-grad studies at Sarah Lawrence College, in Atlanta when visiting my sister Misha, and at many other cities during work and press trips -- San Francisco, New York, New Orleans, Portland, Philadelphia and Chicago. I worked out to Jazzercise with my late mother, Ellen, a treasured memory, and with sisters Olivia, Misha and Robbie. When I'm  in Montana, I exercise with a group of a half-dozen friends at the local Fire Hall. We use Jazzercise DVDs I've collected through the years -- one concentrates on abdominals, and there's a fun one on street jazz. Others combine jazzy Latin rhythms with weights and aerobics.  Some of the girls bring other DVDs, ranging from yoga to pilates, so we mix it up with our coach Laurie Beers figuring the venue each day to keep everyone happy. When Cookie's in Montana, she  and Keller hike to the top of the property on a series of switchbacks. Here friends and the Yorkies join the couple. When I'm  the only one able or interested, I opt instead to walk briskly to "the top of the prop" -- a switchback trail up the mountain behind my country place here in Montana. Sometimes I drag a couple friends along. And the Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Sometimes I play my saxophone up there, listening to it ricochet off the rock. Since there is no gym here in the rural northern Rockies in the shadow of the Beartooth Mountains, we are on our own to keep fit. (The town of Nye is "blink and you'll miss it" in fact a sign near the Post Office says, "entering and leaving Nye".) In place of a formal program, we devise our own, and have been at it for three years. Billings, the nearest "big city" -- around 100,000 -- offers several venues of Jazzercise, too. Brenda Jazzercise is followed by jazz.  At the "top of the prop" in Montana,  jazz comes  from Cookie's saxophone. Friends enjoy a cocktail. Binstock, who leads us at the Knights of Columbus Hall, has been jazzing nearly as long as my coaches in San Diego. One of my  California instructors, the amiable Rick Nesbitt, tells of meeting the dynamic Jazzercise founder and CEO Judi Sheppard Missett many years ago in the days of paisley and flower power. The shapely Missett has turned Jazzercise into a worldwide phenomenon, with catalogues for jazz togs and classes to sample in Europe and even Asia (the Japanese, especially, love Jazzercise.)  One of the San Diego substitutes, introduced to us by Debbie at the Moose Lodge, is named Hiroko and is a native of Japan. The DVDs  we enjoy in Nye feature Missett and her daughter Shanna Missett Nelson, along with Jenet Morrison and others in the fit and jazzy California Jazzercise contingent.  Many have been at Jazzercise for years. Cookie's California time  encourages fitness, with fine climate, hiking and outdoor exercise, here near Morrow Bay with Keller, Nick and Nora. What I like about the program is its combination of lively music, a total body workout and socialization. This lifelong tap dancer loves the dance aspect, and we move to the tunes of time honored crooners such as Tony Bennett as well as newer talents such as Adam Levine. At fitness centers and gyms, there is seldom much banter or conversation. Jazzercise provides an opportunity to have fun, chat a bit, and still get the important exercise we all need. In cross-country driving trips, I've noticed that people are fatter in the Midwest and northern climes. It's not a mystery. Keller is coaching Cookie's sailor prowess. He has been on boats and oceans since boyhood, growing up in southern California. One has to work harder to keep fit in places plagued by long winters and harsh cold spells....... that's why in my San Diego time, I notice little obesity. It's a fit, outdoorsy place. I love my time there, which most days includes some ocean and hiking time.  Often, we go sailing.  Wherever Cookie is, I'm doing my best to wage war against the ravages of gravity and changing metabolism.  It's possible to combine exercise with nature watching. Thanks to Jazzercise for inspiring me to keep in shape in California and on the road.  My Nye pals enjoy my summertime Jazzercise DVDs. Call 1 800 FIT-IS-IT or go to www.jazzercise.com and plug in your zip code to find a close-by Jazzercise venue.   Montana's summers offer welcome chance to explore Here, Cookie's family hikes up Sioux Charlie trail, river raging.  COMING UP:  It's officially summer in Montana. The birds are back, the hummers are sucking up sugar water, the bears are visiting, the rivers are raging, snows are melting and the green, green grass of home is wet with dew. We'll take you to the Arizona desert for star and saguaro gazing, to Europe, with tips on how to make the most of treasured time there. Plus pointers on getting a first-time California driver's license, flying high at the Torrey Pines glider port and more. Check out our posts at: whereiscookie.com   And remember to explore, learn and live!

Lake Atitlan offers beauty, culture and an insight into ancient ways of doing things. This woman is washing for her family. These young sisters at Lake Atitlan were dressed beautifully in traditional elaborate dresses created by their mother and grandmother. PLAN A TRIP TO RELAX,  LEARN, ADMIRE TEXTILES, CLIMB A VOLCANO, DREAM OF A  VAGABOND VACATION, MEET FRIENDLY PEOPLE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" "Atitlan: the place where the rainbow gets its colors"-- in the Maya language This woman in the village of Panajachel, Lake Atitlan, offers beautiful  hand sewn Guatemalan quilts and other textiles for sale.   ON OUR SECOND visit to Lake Atitlan and the remote Guatemalan village of Panajachel, we decided to "go with the flow," take a yoga class, watch the sunsets, enjoy the environment. Unlike other trips, we didn't plan every day to the minute.  We floated, like butterflies, in a lovely garden. The place encourages relaxation. The air is fresh and at a mile high, you'll find nature, birds, calm. There's plenty to do, whether you're looking to unwind, learn about the Mayan culture or  stroll the crooked paths winding around the lake.  Don't be surprised if you see the occasional drug deal going down.  We did -- and found the police look the other way.  Still, we never felt threatened or unsafe, although we also encountered a few harmless intoxicants and and some very persistent craftsmen. Although the villages around Lake Atitlan are remote, cell phones and old-fashioned textile work are compatible. WE NEVER mind hawkers promoting their wares -- it's honest work.  We like to bring home the unique offerings each country's craftsmen and women create. It's a happy memory to walk around our home, remembering where and when we purchased each piece of art or handmade work. Lately, this sleepy little corner of Guatemala has been promoting many things to do in Lake Atitlan. It's a wonderful place to get away from it all and relax.  A pair of friends planned a week there, and ended up staying around Lake Atitlan for much longer than expected. They'd visited American ex-pats in Antigua, enjoyed their lovely home for a long weekend, then hiked around Lake Atitlan. Our small boat approaches a village from the lovely Lake Atitlan. Guatemala Lake Atitlan calls -- some attractions BESIDES THE country's volcanoes, rain forests and ancient Mayan sites, you'll find palaces and fine hotels -- in the capital, Guatemala City.  Then, into the rural villages around the lake for foot paths, pristine areas, and the massive volcanic crater around Lake Atitlan. Hotels in the busy resort town of Panajachel offer a place to rest while awaiting a boat ride into the lake.  It's lovely to visit the stately National Palace of Culture, and the National Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology in Guatemala City. Antigua, west of the capital, offers beautifully preserved Spanish colonial buildings and new, opulent homes built by Europeans and Americans. But Lake Atitlán, formed in a massive volcanic crater, is a step back in time.  Surrounded by coffee fields and villages, the lake rests inside the crater. If you want to pack in, you'll prefer the backpacker-driven San Pedro La Laguna in the The largest town on Lake Atitlan is Santiago, famous for its hand made work,its market, and the saint Maximon. This views from the lake beckons to San Pedro Volcano in the distance. You can climb it from here. country's southwestern highlands. Ringed by steep, verdant hills, it’s known for its Mayan villages and volcanoes' striking pointed cones. THE BUSY town of Panajachel, where vendors sell traditional textiles, is the reason we answered the call of Lake Atitlan Guatamela. It is a popular gateway to the lake. On a former coffee plantation, the Atitlán nature reserve offers trails and a butterfly garden. Both Panajachel and the larger Santiago have good tourist services, where you'll find pensions, air bnbs and all manner of lodging -- cheap to luxurious. Plus yoga classes to help you chill.  Check out Tripadvisor.com ; lonelyplanet.com ; guatemala.gob.gt/ Bruce Keller left Scripps Green Hospital in a record three days, three years ago after transplantation. More next week.  UP NEXT: Time to give thanks! Three years ago, Bruce Keller left the hospital with a new liver.  We reflect on our good fortune in finding a match, having the advantage of a world class facility, with brilliant physicians and nurses to help us. Until COVID19, we resumed our world travels -- and hope to again. We'll explore the complex world of transplantation and share the challenges and triumphs. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each weekly for a fresh view on travel, the arts, nature, family, health and the effects of the virus on our lives: whereiscookie.com

VISIONARY PHILANTHROPIST AND HIS ARTIST PARTNER CREATE DESERT ART Bighorn sheep, who roam on the desert, are perched playfully for a stand-off during mating season. A tyrannosaurus rex awaits your discovery in Borrego Springs. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" THE DESERT  beckoned with Borrego Springs sculptures and we answered the call, delighting in the surprise art. We've been to the desert many times, enjoying the spring flowers and bird life,  favorite places to stay and some wonderful restaurants. This time, we discovered prehistoric life --  dinosaurs, mammoths, and sabre-toothed cats and tortoises that would have charmed Darwin. An ancestor of our modern birds picks up his prey and flies. Beautifully crafted metal sculptures including elephants, eagles and even a desert jeep with passengers are positioned to suggest roaming the deserts of San Diego County, near our home here in southern California. Outside of the town of Borrego Springs lies Galleta Meadows, inspiration of the late entrepreneur and philanthropist Dennis Avery. An imposing Indian chief joins the ranks of prehistoric and modern life. HE CALLED  these massive steel sculptures "Sky Art," probably because he placed them on the desert scrub to jump out at the tourist and draw the eye skyward. Framed by the blue desert sky and mountains of the Anza Borrego desert, the giant sculptures catch the eye and tickle the imagination. This tortoise is worthy of a Darwin nod. Avery, a visionary land owner of Galleta Meadows Estates in Borrego, conceived of the idea of adding “free standing art” to his property. He commissioned Ricardo Breceda of Temecula, California, to create the metal sculptures you see today. Breceda operates Perris Jurassic Park along I-215 just south of Perris. Keller takes an imaginary ride in a desert jeep. The late Mr. Avery.  MOST OF  the animals depicted are from various prehistoric periods. However, there are a few that represents modern time, such as Desert Bighorn Sheep that Borrego Springs is named after (“Borrego” in Spanish means sheep). There are also a few that are more fictional, such as the 350-foot serpent that was erected in July of 2011.  Cleverly, it appears to slink under the highway, so its slithering length is on both sides of the road! HOW WONDERFUL  to come across these sculptures, installed remarkably since April of 2008.  The surreal menagerie -- a gift of Avery -- sit on private parcels of Galleta Meadows Estate -- open to the public and accessible from Borrego Springs Road. A pack mule and a miner's supplies seem to be taking a rest. THE ARTIST  Breceda, is a master welder who uses scrap bars, wire and metal then pounds the materials with various hammers for life-like texture and skin.  We counted more than 60 camels, sloths, saber-tooth cats, wooly mammoths, raptors, wild boars, bighorns and tortoises, along with giant birds large enough to carry off a small pig. All are peacefully co-existing over a span of several square miles.  The wild horses and bighorns may be modern desert dwellers, but some of the vertebrates date from the Pliocene-Pleistocene era up to five million years ago. A padre and his faithful dog preach the gospel in Borrego. ALTHOUGH AVERY  died in 2012, his widow, Sally Tsui Wong-Avery, continues to sustain his generous  gift.  Her husband and the artist added humans to the collection in 2010, including a missionary, explorer and field workers -- all of whom shaped desert life. The local chamber has published a helpful "Village Guide" with directions on discovering the llamas, mammoths, grasshopper, tapirs, peccaries, and more. I took pleasure in discovering Galletta Meadows and this intriguing art because galletta means cookie and that, as we know, is my nickname! UP NEXT: THERE'S MUCH more to discover of the desert's spring gifts and plenty to do in Borrego Springs -- from buying delicious dates and grapefruit, to enjoying a fine meal, discovering nature close-up on Palm Canyon Trail and learning to identify a few cacti. We'll look at that next week, but first, we salute the lively current theater scene in San Diego, with a look at a trio of fine productions.   Remember to explore, learn and live, and tell your friends about our Wednesdays and weekend posts at:  www.whereiscookie.com

Exploring the ruins of Iximche, Guatemala, provides a fascinating look into the ancient Mayan culture. Volcan de Fuego steams, smokes and hisses as the tourist drives by.  GUATEMALA HAS IT ALL: CULTURE, NATURE,  SPORTS, HISTORY AND A PROUD PAST STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" THE MAYAN  people were expert architects, scientists, artists and farmers who developed a sophisticated culture. Volcan de Fuego forms a background as farmers and workers tend their crops and ship their wares. Guatemala's ruins are user friendly Guatemala offers access to the Mayan culture's spectacular archeological sites, where one can actually walk through (and surprisingly "on") some beautiful monuments and ruins. We were astonished to be able to climb an ancient stairway to an altar on a recent trip to Iximche, due north of Puerto Quetzal on the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by Mexico, Belize, Honduras and El Salvador, Guatemala is larger than its Central American neighbors, and touches both the Pacific and the Caribbean Sea. BESIDES  extraordinary ruins, the country of 16 million people is home to 33 volcanoes and more than 300 protected areas with stunning diversity including 300 micro-climates. Mountain biking, climbing and even  rafting are among celebrated diversions and the diversity of flora and fauna attracts nature lovers from all over the world. The volcanoes were active the day we drove from Puerto Quetzal -- named after the country's showy national bird.  We saw two smoking, including Volcan de Fuego, which did serious damage in 2018. Teenagers await a school bus, while older folks are going to work . Our cordial driver told us he'd advised the volcanoes not to blow that day.  His admonition was heeded by the volcano, which smoked and rumbled but didn't blow, as our mini-van cautiously passed by. A catastrophic eruption of de Fuego on June 3, 2018, took lives and we saw rubble still these months later. The death toll stood at 165 people, with 260  missing in Guatemala's most severe volcanic eruption in 45 years. Colonial architecture abounds even in Guatemala's villages where much repair is happening, post-volcano. WE WERE  thankful to be spared, as only days before the volcanic island Whakaari on New Zealand's White Island's northeastern Bay of Plenty blew, killing tourists who, like us, were on a day tour. Putting that out of our mind, we were off to soak up the colorful culture that is Guatemala: 23 ethnic groups, all with rituals and folk festivals.  Each of the country's 23 ethnic groups has its own language and the country's colonial past is evident in the architecture of the villages and the beautiful city of Antigua. The Guatemalan town of Antigua is a highlight for a visit to Guatemala, a well preserved Colonial masterpiece. We captured a close-up of this quetzal. We found the people friendly and welcoming on this, our third visit. Antigua is a highlight for most travelers to Guatemala. The town has gorgeous streetscapes at every turn, fine restaurants and a lively nightlife. Students come from Europe, Britain and the U.S. to study Spanish and hike the looming volcanoes. One may climb the ruins of Iximche, a pre-Columbian site.  Iximcheʼ is a Pre-Columbian Mesoamerican archaeological site in the western highlands of Guatemala. Iximche, meaning "the city," was capital of the Kaqchikel Maya kingdom from 1470 until its abandonment in 1524. The site included pyramid-temples, palaces and Mesoamerican ballcourts. WE LOVED  seeing families and generations strolling, admiring the ruins. Few people have cell phones. It's nice to see teen-agers taking time to visit and greet one another. This is a pattern we observe in relatively poor countries, a lesson perhaps. We saw happy people, in a country struggling with development, trying desperately to improve infant, child and maternal health, malnutrition, A young, pretty Guatemalan girl awaits her school bus. literacy, and contraceptive awareness. Catholicism is the major religion and volunteers are teaching birth control.   THE PEOPLE  of today mirror their ancestors of long ago in many ways: strong, capable, friendly, smart.  They  cultivate fields and farm in ancient ways, and greet the modern visitor with kindness, sharing their remarkable heritage. visitguatemala.com Color, class and character mark Palm Springs, where Hollywood stars flocked in the day. Now, a diverse group of people live and visit this lovely desert town. UP NEXT:  Tucked neatly beneath the San Bernardino Mountain Range in the beautiful Coachella Valley, Palm Springs, California, offers world class art museums, fabulous entertainment including Oscar's, a lively female impersonator venue, a wide array of fine eateries, casinos, 100-plus golf courses and plenty of indoor and outdoor activity.  A two-part series begins next Friday. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn, live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, music, nature, travel, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

NEW ZEALAND, AUSSIE BIRDS, SOME BATTLING EXTINCTION, RANK HIGH ON 'MUST-SEE' LIST We watched two pair of Australian white ibis -- at two different times -- intrigued by their mating rituals and beauty. They are so much a part of the scenery that they are sometimes ignored in the cities. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER This friendly gull is waiting for the appetizer, not the fake wine, with Sydney Bridge and Harbour behind him and a patient Bruce Keller. HAVE YOU  ever looked a kakapo in the eye in the middle of the night? Or watched an ibis vie for your fish and chips at an outdoor cafe? Birds are so much a part of daily life in Australia and New Zealand that residents give scarcely a glance to feathered friends exotic to us.  After widespread bird extinction, the abundance and "come back" seems ironic. Today's flightless birds include showy ostriches, emus, kiwis and other winged non-flyers. They're called ratites. At a Sydney cafe, this ibis caught our eye.  Other diners didn't notice. THE ODDITY  and variety of the Southern Hemisphere birds has helped biologists define a larger group of mostly extinct birds, many of them flightless.  They're called paleognaths, who knew? The kakapo or night parrot has alluring beauty  and is making a comeback from near extinction. We learned that these feathered wonders are key to studying evolution of birds. To our amazement, all living ratites are found in the Southern Hemisphere, or S.H. A tern on New Zealand's south island near Milford Sound.  MANY FLIGHTLESS  birds were wiped out by European and Polynesian settlement and introduction of rats, cats and predators  -- no surprise. We loved our time with the kakapo, observed at night in a sanctuary. They have a voice like a foghorn, gorgeous greenish-yellow plumage, a pleasant musty smell and intelligent eyes. Thanks to a successful recovery program for this unique parrot, they've gone from near extinction to 126 in number. The kakapo possesses flightless features: small or absent keels on breastbones; smaller, simpler and fewer wing bones; larger leg bones and body; and feathers not inclined to aerodynamics. ANOTHER OF  our favorite southern hemisphere birds can fly, as we witnessed. The beautiful Australian white ibis is as common Down Under as is our North American pigeon. Folks call them "bin chickens." Gannets in New Zealand's Muriwai Park are protected. We watched them at outdoor cafes -- as people shooed them with newspapers, sometimes smiling at their beauty, sometimes not. We observed a mating pair for a couple hours, while we munched on fish and chips.  They swooped in on a next-door table's remains with the confidence of seagulls in our San Diego coastal parks.  Maori hunted birds, eating their meat and using their feathers for capes. They pay homage to feathered friends in this Okains Bay Maori Museum. This red billed swan enjoyed a swim in Melbourne's Yarra River. Fiordland's colorful crested penguins often mate for life. THE IBIS HAVE  an elaborate courtship and nesting ritual -- almost dance like -- involving bowing to show off white   plumage and black head and neck. The female plays hard to get, but finally gives in. The male finds twigs and she builds the nest. In flight, flocks of Australian white ibis form distinctive V-shaped flight patterns, much like our Canada geese. The Southern Hemisphere is also known for its fabulous gannet colony in Muriwai. Thousands of these graceful birds nest in the crags and cliffs north of Auckland and are protected by the New Zealand government. We also viewed that famous black and white flightless bird -- the penguin. Mainly residing in the Antarctic, penguins migrate to the southern tips of Australia and New Zealand. We love knowing that the handsome Fiordland crested penguin is monogamous and mates for life!  DUNEDIN DELIGHTS : Coming next Wednesday, we visit Dunedin, one of New Zealand's charming cities. The Dunedin Train Station is the second most photographed landmark in the Southern Hemisphere, behind the world famous Sydney Opera House in Australia. Delightful Dunedin, settled by the Scots in 1848, is known for its remarkable train station. Remember to explore, learn and live and tell your friends about www.whereiscookie.com where you'll find pieces on travel, adventure, hotels and cruising. For theater, books, film and the arts, check us out at our new blog: www.lilianslastdance.com

Hikers begin the up and down hike to several sky bridges in Costa Rica HIGHLY MOTIVATED COUNTRY RANKS EDUCATION HIGH, ATTRACTS EX-PATS FOR ITS NATURAL WONDERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Lush, colorful vegetation is partly what makes Costa Rica so attractive to foreigners. Here o rchids and their fronds on a gorgeous tree in full bloom on the grounds of Pura Vida Gardens, Costa Rica. I WAS SO nervous my palms were sweating and my legs were shaky. But my coach and partner assured me everything was perfectly safe. I'd be fine. So I accepted the walking stick our guide offered and headed toward the first sky bridge. Pura Vida Gardens offers this colorful cafe on a waterfall. As I walked carefully across the swaying bridge, I saw glorious birds and listened to a toucan's glorious cry.   HOWLER MONKEYS screamed and century-old trees swayed and I watched parakeets take flight. Eco-tourists and bird watchers worldwide consider Costa Rica a mecca. Hikers begin the up and down hike to several sky bridges in Costa Rica. Costa Rica's allure is great for HORSEBACK  aficionados too, for its trails through the enchanting Valley of the Monkeys. White-water rafters take to the Corobici River for thrills.  Hikers follow the edges of the largest crater in the world. And coffee lovers load up on bags of the world-famous Costa Rican coffee beans, maybe taking in a tour of one of the coffee mills and watching how it's processed. WE SAILED  into Puntarenas ("sandy point"), closest coastal town to the capital, San Jose, with its fine museums and shops. Costa Rica is beautiful year-round, but the main, non-rainy tourist season is November through April. We headed for the wilderness, past miles of gorgeous beaches, into the lushest tropical rainforests we've seen since the Amazon.  We were to see birds, monkeys and more. I'M AFRAID  of heights and suffer from vertigo. But the skywalk was fun.  Here we were on suspension bridges, walking over gorges and ravines.  Beyond the rainforest, we admired Costa Rica's allure in its bold coastline and nearby Tarcoles River. Costa Rica, bordered by Panama to the south and Nicaragua to the north, enjoys two bodies of water -- on the east coast, the Caribbean Sea and on the west, the Pacific Ocean. Costa Rica is a booming destination, with surfing, beach vacations and ecotourism. Visiting is easy; U.S. citizens need a valid passport and a return ticket. A bell pepper, perhaps? No, it's a cashew! WHAT made us feel a pull to Costa Rica? American ex-pat, right, David Stannard, and guide, flank Cookie at Pura Vida; below left, a monkey frolics. First, the people are educated and school is compulsory, so Costa Rica feels more "first world" than third. Crime is virtually nil. Costa Rica has enjoyed interesting historical events, including a visit from Christopher Columbus.  Our country's own "discoverer" was so impressed with the colony that he lobbied, unsuccessfully, to be named its governor. The honor went to a rival. An iguana cries for lunch -- and moments later -- get papaya slices. The country had a civil war that led to the dissolution of the armed forces. TODAY,  Costa Rica is considered one of the most politically and economically stable of the Central American nations. Without an army, Costa Rica doesn't participate in wars or conflicts.  And it's a pleasure not to be confronted with heavily armed guards at every turn, as happens to us in many other parts of the world. A growing contingent of American and European ex-patriots is moving to Costa Rica, in search of cheap land and tranquil surroundings. Cookie and Keller near the end of the last sky bridge! We David and Cindy Stannard,  who invited us to their beautiful Pura Vida Gardens for a tour and lunch. HE HAS knocked around in the real estate business, living in La Jolla, Calif., then moving to this lovely corner of Costa Rica. His kitchen prepared a typical Costa Rican meal of rice and beans, barbecued chicken and fish, plantains and pasta salad.  We had enjoyed fruit earlier in the day – beautiful papaya, melon and the sweetest pineapple I’ve had outside of Hawaii's Molokai and Lanai. Since education is compulsory in C.R., ambition leads to accomplishment. In nearby Guatemala, youngsters are often recruited to help farm or  sell handicrafts and pulled from school after grade six. Young Costa Ricans with means and family backing travel to America or Europe for their educations, returning as doctors or other professionals. “We know how important education is,” said our guide. “It is a ticket to a better life.” Cartagena's sculptures are abundant and massive, a main tourist draw. Come explore, learn and live with us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more at: www.whereiscookie.com

FANCY HOTELS, BEAUTIFUL WALLED CITY, FABULOUS RESTAURANTS TRUMP FEAR OF DRUG LIFE   Browsing for souvenirs is a must in colorful Cartagena, here in the old walled part of the pretty city. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" A young accordionist entertains for change near Cartagena's old town. CARTAGENA  is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful cities in Americas. Indeed, it may be one of the world's prettiest cities, with its colorful old town, cobblestone streets, pastel plazas and brilliant clusters of bougainvillea. It's a city for romantics, historians, beach lovers and gourmets.  It's also a city for romantics -- with music in the air.  Talented buskers play violin, accordion and mandolin on streets and nightclubs offer lively choices, from jazz to rumba and more. THE CITY  was the first Spanish colony on the American continent and one of the first sanctuaries of freed African slaves in the Americas. It is now populated by an ethnic mix Cartagena at night, a riot of color. of Colombia's own spicy and distinctive variety. Cartagena calls -- and we answer Spread out on Colombia's northern coast and facing the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena is the most visited city in the country.  It's crowded in the December holidays and the holy week, when schools are out and many Colombians take their vacations.  But we enjoyed our recent visit with unhampered strolls through the walled city and a leisurely afternoon on the famed Bocagrande. This stately old Cartagena convent is now a museum. THE HISTORY  of Colombia is soaked in blood. Sadly, that theme continues to today’s violence and drug wars. The South American country’s flag is tri-colored:  red for blood shed to win independence, yellow for rich veins of gold, emeralds and other minerals, and blue for the sky and ocean. We sailed into beautiful Cartagena at dawn and explored the city stem to stern. Cartagena's charm includes pedestrian only streets and plazas. THROUGH A  17 th  Century harbor with stone cannon casings, we walked inside ancient walls to explore cool, tiled cloisters and serene convents. Cartagena is a city of many colors and people. We saw scantily clad lovers cavorting and caressing on the beaches, much as we saw in Rio. We visited the city's massive wall, built by the Spanish 500 years ago to guard the harbor.  And we toured the fortress of all fortresses, San Felipe de Barajas, so solid it kept out even the aggressive English fleet. WE ALSO  saw hundreds of greenhouses.  Many of the flowers during the Princess Diana mourning came from Cartagena and Colombia! Dressed in the colors of Colombia's flag, a fruit seller serves up papaya. Behind him, a customer negotiates for Cuban cigars. A huge restoration project has brought Cartagena to international attention.  It has revived with billions of dollars in new hotels, condos and office buildings.  And it has an influx of hard-working immigrants, adding to its myriad ethnic restaurants.   In fact, Cartagena's eateries are said to be among South America's best. Its nightlife -- along with its risque beaches -- rivals Rio's. HERE ON AN  alluring strip of sand and surf are a dozen classy hotels and graceful high-rise condos. The city has two main parts: the walled colonial city ("ciudad amurallada"), with its fancy restaurants, clubs and hotels; and a long strip of hotel towers and condos fronting onto the Bocagrande.  An exclusive neighborhood, Castillogrande, sports artistically designed condos, beautiful places to jog, and a quiet beach. One Cartagena man gave us advice on how to eat fruit:  "Not fruit salad, but one fruit at a time," he said. "If you want papaya, eat papaya.  Better for your stomach." Flowers greet visitors to Cabo San Lucas, our next blog stop, and we see the place that inspired the Eagles' "Hotel California" at whereiscookie.com   COMING UP :  Our revels continue up and down the Americas’ coast as we visit lovely Cabo San Lucas, famous for its flowers, pristine sandy beaches, spectacular fishing, challenging diving and bottomless margaritas. Then we salute the booby, our faithful escort on our sea-driven adventure.  Finally, we catch our breath in Fort Lauderdale, where we fall in love with the water taxi. Remember to explore, learn and live. Visit us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts and more at: www.whereiscookie.com .

Bruce Keller displays the cookies he begged for and which the non-baker Cookie provided. He pronounced them "incredible - far beyond edible." THREE KINDS OF COOKIES: LABOR OF LOVE FROM A LOUSY BAKER's KITCHEN RESTORES HOLIDAY TRADITION STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Grandmother Olive's vintage cookie cutters. I AN NOT A BAKER. The art demands a precision that most improvisational cooks like me lack. But I can still picture helping my grandmother make holiday cookies in the   1950s. The ritual was about  much more than sweets.  It was about sharing, learning, being together with my siblings and one of our all time favorite individuals. The memories come happily alive. As I enter her well lit, geranium filled kitchen, I smell cookies baking, see  ingredients and utensils on the green counter.  My grandmother, Olive, places a large yellow earthenware mixing bowl on the kitchen counter. She holds her long wooden spoon like a conductor's baton, directing each grandchild to a specific task. "Peny, beat the eggs."  "Cookie, measure sugar." "Rick, soften butter -- use a mixing spoon, not hands." The little kids had separate "ingredients" -- flour, water, sprinkles to make their own faux cookies.  "Watch how I sift the flour." "Here are measuring cups and spoons."  "Add an extra half-teaspoon of vanilla."  Then we mix the dry and moist ingredients. The first of the chocolate cookies cool on the counter and we children hurry to sample.  We sing Christmas carols as we work.  Soon the counter is a mess of spilled sugar, wayward spices, egg shells. There's flour on the floor, in our hair. (Gran wears a pair of her clean pink knickers on her head, which makes us giggle.) The happily cluttered kitchen cupboard bears witness to our endeavor.   For me and my siblings, it's a cherished memory.  Grandmother Olive Nystul  (minus her classic hair net. ) CHRISTMAS COOKIES are a tradition in many families, and for mine, the cookies were several kinds: ginger snaps, sugar cookies and the family favorite: filled cookies, usually mincemeat and dates, with walnuts or pecans, sometimes coconut. Gram was a great improviser and encouraged that in all of us youngsters -- not only in the kitchen, but at the piano, the garden, in life in general.   Grandmother Olive's filled cookies create family ambiance, teach baking skills and and leave lasting memories. Her notes are priceless, and I've included them here. GRAM OLIVE'S FAMOUS FILLED CHRISTMAS COOKIES Dry ingredients: Mix together: 5 tsp baking powder, 4 cups sifted flour, 1 cup raw oatmeal, 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp cinnamon, optional nutmeg, cloves, ginger or allspice  In separate large mixing bowl, mix: 2 cups butter, 1 cup milk or buttermilk, 2 eggs. Cream these 3 ingredients with 2 cups packed brown sugar.) Add sifted dry ingredients to creamed mixture. Chill dough a half hour. Filling (have fun, improvise): 1 l/2 cup of dates, cup of jarred mincemeat or raisins, half-cup walnuts, 3 tbsp brandy or liquor of choice, 2 tbsp flour, 1 tbsp brown sugar or honey. Coconut, cranberries, grated orange rind. Chocolate or caramel chips make the filling too "goopy." Nice idea. Grandmother Olive's filled cookies create family ambiance, teach baking skills and and leave lasting memories. If pressed for time, substitute 3-4 nine-inch prepared pie crust for dough. (No need to announce this.) Roll pastry thin on floured surface.  Pre-heat oven 350 degrees. Cut in circles or squares, top of large glass works well.   Separate dough into four or five rounds; refrigerate, remove one at a time. Fill each cookie with generous spoon of filling, pinch edges. Bake 10-12 minutes or until edges are golden brown.  Can store dough for a week or more, if covered. Store cookies in air tight jar. In our house, they don't usually last more than a day or two. This is a great recipe for introducing kids to the art of baking.  "Keller and Cookie" on the road at Christmas time, off to catch some sun, bound for a holiday away from home. UP NEXT: Happy holidays and a joyous New Year! We've spent many a New Year's Eve on the road, ushering in the next day on Bali, in Buenos Aires, Berlin and in Big Timber, Montana!   We take a look at the traditions and fun of celebrating this festive season and the turn of the year -- from Europe to our own back yards in San Diego and the West Fork of the Stillwater River. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com  Please share the link with like-minded folks.

Robbie helped choreograph several European trips with mum     “I’m home,” she cried, lifting her hands heavenward. “I feel their spirits.” Then she wept.  My sister and I looked at one another, blinking back our own tears.  Then we hugged mum and all of us cried. I remembered watching “The Wizard of Oz” as a five-year-old, with my mother at my side. Near the end, when Dorothy wakes up safely back in Kansas, her auntie and uncle at her side and the scarecrow and his pals turned back to farm hands, my mother wept. “Why are you crying, mummy?” I asked.  “Because I’m so happy.  You’ll understand some day.”  She was right. Happiness and sorrow, like the comic and tragic masks, are merely different takes on the same thing.  Cookie and mummy at the Folies I’d been to Ireland a half-dozen times before, but seeing it through my mother’s eyes was like seeing it anew.  She made me feel connected to the country in a way I had never felt before.  The Blarney Stone took on new meaning.  The potato famine felt real.  When she told me the story of  her great grandmother’s departure, I felt the face of the Emerald Isle staring at me. “They had a wake for her,” she said, “because they knew she wouldn’t be coming back. Can you imagine their sadness and bravery?” We had put down anchor in Kolb, where my great, great-grandmother, Molly Wilson, had left her family for America before the Century’s turn.  She’d taken the train from Cork, on a tiny track which we found.  Again, my mother wept.  But it wasn’t all weeping, not by any means.  My 20 days in Europe with my mother and youngest sister rank high on my list of world adventures.  Not because of the exotic nature of  the ports, all of which I’d visited for extended periods, but because of the unique nature of the trip. Life is shaped by defining moments and we don’t always know when they.  Looking back, we realize the importance.  Somehow, I had felt the significance of this trip since we first started planning. It began as a challenge.  Mum had taken me on trips as a little girl.  Indeed, I owe much of my love of travel, music and theater to her and her mother for the curiosity they instilled in me as a toddler.  She’d hinted broadly for 20 years, mentioning on each of my forays how she’s always wanted to go to Blank or return to Blank one last time.  So I’d challenged my mother with part bribe, part enticement.  She knew she needed to lose weight, with two leaky heart valves, one seriously compromised. “You lose the weight and we’ll go to Europe,” I said in the summer of 1998.  By the summer of 1999, she’d lost 45 pounds, through diet and exercise and the European Enticement Plan. The game was afoot. By summer of 1999, she’d lost another 40.  I sent her a stack of brochures and pamphlets and she picked the trip. A Royal occasion The Princess 2000 cruise brochure was her favorite.  She’d chosen the Western Europe tour on page 61, which sailed on the Royal Princess from Dover Aug. 22 – just a few days after my birthday, and 5 days before hers. “We’ll celebrate together,” she said, overjoyed that we’d be sailing the Irish sea on her actual Aug. 27 anniversary. My sister, Robbie, and I had been planning the complex logistics of such a journey for months.  Three busy people, three departure cities, dozens of planes, boats and trains and tour buses.  The cruise concept, we’d decided, was ideal because it would plant us in one place for a couple weeks and we could add sidetrips before and after.  Paris and London were must-sees for mummy, and she wanted to experience the Eurostar Channel Tunnel.  So I suggested we fly into London, catch our breaths at my favorite hotel, the Dorchester, then “Chunnel” to Paris for 3 days.  After that, we’d “Chunnel” back to England, departing at Ashford, then taking a taxi to our embarkation point of Dover. Mum had chosen the Princess for Western Europe because it visited places she’d long wanted to see:  Normandy, where the Allies clawed their way ashore on D-Day.  She, after all, remembered the invasion and had friends among the casualties. The Irish stops – to Cork and Dublin with other sidetrips – had obvious appeal, with her Irish heritage. She wanted to walk the Georgian squares and have lunch in a pub.  Edinburgh with its castle and romance intrigued her She’d taken us to see Maggie Smith in “The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie” years ago, and knew there were Scotsmen, too, in our lineage.  She wanted to ride the Royal Mile to Holyrood Castle. Hamburg fascinated her with its lovely bridges and churches.  But mostly, she knew of its proximity to Berlin and wanted to see the fallen wall and stand beneath Brandenburg Gate. My sister, Robbie, better with “enforcement” than I am, had cautioned mum about the importance of “less is more” in packing, warning her that we’d have to schlep our own bags at certain points. “She promised she’d pack light.  We went through her cruise wardrobe, and she knows she has to leave room for gifts,” Robbie said.  Sounded good to me. And so 20 pounds of paperwork later --  faxes, xeroxes, maps, tickets, reservations in hand – we left our trio of cities – Portland, Sacramento and Billings – to link in Salt Lake, there to continue onward non-stop to Cincinnati, and “across the pond” to Gatwick. Mum was elated when I met her at her gate.  Despite my cautioning, she’d packed everything she owned, was one bag over her allotment and had a bulging carry-on, and an checked extra bag which she sheepishly defended. Ah, well, onward. And, lest you wonder, “How did it go?” I’ll give you a hint up front. Fabulously.  It had a rough moment or two – adult “children” and their parents are bound to have a moment or two.  But it was glorious and the memories are indelible.  I wouldn’t trade them for anything.   Baggage overboard and improv As the trip evolved, sis and I slyly unloaded unnecessary items from mum’s bags when she wasn’t looking. We had to.  And mum knew we were doing it, so in the interest of diplomacy, looked the other way.  She knew she had way too many panty hose, dozens of plastic bags, and tissues enough for the entire ship. Once we were able to comfortably lift her bags and ours, we were happy, and we had that all sorted out by the time we arrived at the Dorchester in London.  I’d sprung for business air tickets on Delta, so we arrived rested and mum was delighted with the personal video on the way over.  She charmed the flight attendants, heard her birthday announced by the captain -- with a champagne toast from her fellow passengers --  and actually got a bit of rest, so she was ready to explore London. Our first adventure was a boat trip on the Thames, and she loved going under the Tower Bridge, and hearing the commentary of wars, beheadings and ransom.  The woman who took me to my first Shakespeare play was thrilled to see the restored Old Globe Theater, and proud that a fellow American, Sam Wanamaker, had a huge hand in it.  A genial cabbie took us on an extended driving tour of the city so she could tip her hat to No. 10 Downing Street, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace and other London landmarks. We dined on fish and chips the first night, her choice, and saw a fabulous production of  “Fosse” so our first full day was a hit. Then on to Waterloo Station and the Chunnel, a first-class experience we all agreed, and an easy three hours to Paris, another city on her bucket list. That night, we cruised the Seine, admired the Eifel Tower aglow in thousands of lights, and listened to a jazz trio play.  She sang along with “La Vie En Rose,” and I remembered the Edith Piaf records she’d played us as kids.  The next day, we lazed about in our rooms at the Westminster, strolled up the Rue de la Paix to the Opera House, and admired the architecture and the perfect weather. The second night found us at the most authentic nightclub Paris has to offer.  “Paradise Latin” is an old-style revue, complete with can-can and acrobats, comedy and magic, scantily dressed girls and plenty of risque humor.  “Very Parisian,” pronounced my mother. “I’m having so much fun.” My college French was useful and mother was a perfect subject, loving everything, thanking people profusely.  The French loved my mother, and having her along opened doors.  People were touched that we had actually gotten it together to take mum to Europe – something lots of families talk about, but few seem to accomplish. She had many great moments abroad.  In Ireland, we visited a pub, the day before her birthday, and she chatted with an Irish family on holiday, celebrating their daughter’s 25 th  birthday. She did a little can-can flourish the night we went to the Paris revue, bought herself some shamrock socks in Dublin, left a red rose at Normandy, walked under the Brandenburg Gate and waved at the hookers in the famous Amsterdam red-light windows. Her enthusiasm made me realize I was becoming a bit jaded as a traveler, taking too much for granted.  She reveled at the flowers in Hyde Park, at the gardens of Cornwall, at the vastness of the museums and the splendor of their holdings. She loved the brightly painted doors of Dublin, a protest of “her” people who wouldn’t be told to paint their doors black. Every moment of that trip, large and small, lingers in my memory, bright as the sunlight that first morning on the Irish sea as Cobn came into sight.  It was an odyssey and I’m the richer for it. Now, a dozen years later on the anniversary of our sail-out, both my mother's and baby sister's remains rest in small Waterford vessels -- intended for sugar cubes and purchased on that memorable, sweet trip.

HORSE HAS BEEN AROUND LONGER THAN WE THOUGHT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and JANE MILDER   This scene, of horses in pasture framed by the Crazy Mountains,   epitomizes the grandeur of Big Sky Country to many Montanans.  No horsing around. The horse goes back farther than we imagined.  So an homage seems in order.  With Fourth of July parades and the horse the star of the rodeo, we have new scientific information about his history.  But first, allow me some steed-steeped memories. MY CHILDHOOOD HORSE  was Peanuts.  He was 18 years old and three of us pre-schoolers could fit in the sway of his patient back.  He remains the favorite horse of many I've ridden since. There was Pedro delivering me safely down a rocky trail high above the sea, to the famed Leper Colony of Molokai. He was a mule, actually, so only half-horse.  And he was sure-footed, although he frightened me a number of times as rocks slipped under his sturdy shoes.  I heard one crash down to the ocean from our trail, carved against the jagged cliffs above the Pacific. Pedro didn't blink. THERE WAS FRANCO,   sleek on a  white sand beach in Italy.  He galloped when I had no interest -- a Roman holiday for sure but he was too frisky for me. I hit the sand. There was Jose, sweetly obedient on the Acapulco shore. Maggie took me for a Montana ride, packing into the Crazies.  She was an eater and got me in trouble with the guide.  A herd of wild horses looks to include several pregnant mares, caught in a pause of grazing and moving. Hank in the Tetons. Too frisky for this reporter. Seth on a Taos trail.  He chewed his way along just fine. "I want an old horse, close to the ground and slow. I don't care if he stops to munch grass," I always tell the guides and packers. "And let me be the last rider." (Guides usually want me near them so they can keep an eye on me and encourage my horse if necessary.) San Diego's East County has a volunteer police posse in which riders, including Linda Slater and her horse Wendy help out in full regalia. Horses have plowed our fields, forged our trails, moved our cattle and hunted our outlaws.  Today, they still provide valuable services, in sheriff's volunteer groups and police posses. The horse has played a part in my life -- on and off the trail.  Even in the theater. For the horse has long fascinated poets and playwrights. Several of my favorite plays involve horses. At the top of the list is "Equus."  Horse inspired plays have won Tony awards and toured the world. Horses are the heart of the Kentucky Derby and I've visited the famed Lipizzaner Stallions on their home turf of Vienna.  Horses and riders share a unique bond.  Reverie and fitness are just two of the offshoots of the friendship. Horses have long been beloved by royals; Queen Elizabeth II has visited Wyoming friends to view their thoroughbreds. A driver takes his passengers around town square in the Canary Islands. FOR HORSE LOVERS  , there's news about the history of this gorgeous beast. The horse is even older than we've thought. By piecing together new genetic information, scientists have deciphered the complete genome of an extinct prehistoric horse that roamed the Yukon more than 700,000 years ago.  Analyzing a fossilized bone, scientists are rewriting the evolutionary history of the horse and smashing the previous record for the oldest complete genome ever sequenced. Do you hear that, Jose, Franco, Wendy, Maggie?  Your ancestors are making history! A horse tips his head to a sunny winter day near Luther, MT. In the new study, an international team of scientists led by Ludovic Orlando and Eske Willerslev at the University of Copenhagen used what’s become a common approach: comparing the DNA of  modern species to DNA recovered from fossil remains. Their study focuses on a frozen, fossil bone fragment found near Thistle Creek, Canada. By pushing DNA sequencing technology to its limits, they were able to rewind the evolutionary clock back further than ever before. So the next time you put your backside on a horse, show some respect. You're throwing your leg over millions of years of evolutionary history -- and a critter whose history goes back more than 700,000 years! COMING SATURDAY:  Flower Power to the people, as the year marks its half-way point. Future posts will circle the globe, giving tips on travel and taking memorable photos abroad.  We'll also celebrate the joys and trials of life with a handicapped child, explore a glider port, look at the moon and more. Enjoy the  Fourth of July and remember to explore, learn and live. We post each Wednesday and Saturday at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cap'n Keller sails the much loved vintage boat, Interlude, a classic gaff rigged cat ketch, at Mission Bay Aquatic Center. -Photo by Christene Meyers  "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So cast off the dock lines and set sails from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."  - Mark Twain STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Golden sunshine, ocean breezes, and a laid-back coastal vibe make San Diego one of the most irresistible destinations in the United States. Whether you’re strolling along the vibrant harbor of Embarcadero, exploring the historic decks of the USS Midway Museum, or soaking in panoramic views from Coronado Beach, this San Diego waterfront itinerary is designed to capture the very best of the city. From sunrise walks to sunset sails, get ready to experience the perfect mix of coastal beauty, outdoor adventure, and Southern California sunshine. I CAN'T BELIEVE  that I got this old without understanding the meaning of Mark Twain's pseudonym. Good old Samuel L. Clemens was no fool when he took his better known handle. And good old Keller, who is by his own admission half amphibian, just explained it to me. Oh, joy. For a day without learning is a lost day and this reporter has never had one yet and doesn't plan to. It has to do with fathoms and the amount of depth needed in the water for a boat to pass safely over. The popular Paradise Point Boat Rentals on Mission Bay.   WHO KNEW? The river boatman's cry was "mark twain" or, more fully, "by the mark twain......"  If the depth were around 12 feet approximately two fathoms it was safe to pass over. Sunset after a sail out of Paradise Point, on Mission Bay.  Sunny San Diego coastal activities: Our favorite way to enjoy Mission Bay is from Paradise Point Resort, where we charter a boat, throw in a picnic lunch and leave our worries behind. We sail as often as time and money allow.  Sometimes it's just the two of us; other times, we treat friends and family.   Sailing is a time-honored cure for the blues, an antidote for almost anything that ails you! You can sail into the past, be in the now and contemplate the future all at the same time.  Last weekend, we took my sister Misha and her husband David out of Paradise Point. If you're lucky enough to have a sailor in the family as I do, you're on your own.  Lessons and skippers are available for the less experienced, along with motorboats, jetskiis, paddleboats and kayaks.  ( www.actionsportrentals.com ) IT WAS GLORIOUS .  On this peaceful saltwater lagoon, I've been introduced to Keller's past.  He lived in several places on Mission Bay as a college kid and employee of the beloved Aquatic Center where he is now involved in a cause to preserve and restore Interlude, a boat with a place in the hearts of several generations -- Baby Boomers and "Befores and Beyonds." To our astonishment -- by complete kismet -- we recently found ourselves seated on a plane next to a woman (our contemporary in age and inclination) who grew up sailing on Interlude.  She got misty-eyed recalling her childhood -- eating tuna sandwiches and sailing with her family.  Kristen's 90-plus father remembers the boat well and that might be another story........    LISTENING TO  Keller and Kristen reminisce prompted my wondering about the two bays.  Here's an excerpt from Cap'n Keller's explanation, transcribed by first-mate Cookie: Mission Bay Park as seen from Fanuel Street Park in Pacific Beach. "Mission Bay and San Diego Bay are formed by several meandering rivers which deliver rain and snow melt from the coastal mountains forming the Baja Pennisula. Water is delivered via the San Diego River which runs through Mission Valley.  While Mission Bay is fed by San Diego River and Rose Creek, several other rivers feed San Diego Bay. WHILE SAN  Diego Bay is much larger than Mission Bay, both are treasures. Mission Bay is unusual, as one of the largest waterparks of its kind in the world. It is 4,200 acres of land and water, surrounded by 27 miles of shoreline of sandy beaches, attractive people and abundant bird life. Interconnected by a network of waterways, inlets and islets, the bay is best explored by boat...." (with Keller as cap'n) or by the progressively developed bike paths. FROM MISSION  Bay and Paradise Point, we've watched families barbecuing right next to the water, sharing a picnic, strolling, kayaking, jogging and taking in the internationally known spectacle of SeaWorld. San Diego Bay from C-Level, our favorite restaurant in that area.     San Diego Bay, also known as "the big bay" offers many options of entertainment and adventure, from whale watching to sport fishing. We've sampled it all.    On the water, we've sailed off Shelter and Harbor Islands, along the Embarcadero, across the Bay to Coronado, and south to the shores of National City, Chula Vista and Imperial Beach.    I had no idea San Diego Bay offered so many spectacular places to view the sky and the city lights.  Many are  attracted to the beautiful shops and first-rate dining. We're C-Level regulars.  Our favorite "big bay" restaurant offers gorgeous views,  fabulous appetizers, attentive service and a terrific wine list. Cookie and her sister Misha board Hornblower on San Diego Bay.  We're regulars on the Hornblower fleet with array of cruises featuring narration and fine food.    ANOTHER OPTION  is a trip and meal on Hornblower Cruises which offers great value and a place to celebrate being alive and on the sea.  We are Hornblower devotees and have cruised the Hornblower fleet all year round, morning to evening, on Christmas, Thanksgiving, Easter and birthdays. Hornblower has it all -- robust coffee, tasty champagne and the delights of sea lions, whales, dolphins, sunshine, moonlight and a romantic dance as we pass under Coronado Bridge.   ( www.hornblower.com )                                                                                              If I could afford it, I'd be boarding Hornblower once a week for the baked spinach and artichoke appetizer, shrimp and crab, tenderloin and a stellar sea view of most of the city's 50-plus landmarks:  Point Loma and its beautiful light house, the fabled Star of India ship, the Midway Aircraft Carrier and Museum, the Naval Air Station, Cabrillo National Monument and other nautical accomplishments.  Hornblower's varied and many cruises offer a relaxing way to see and hear the history of our gorgeous city, set against the Bay's spectacular views. The Maritime Museum on San Diego Bay features many historic ships. --Photos by Bruce Keller     NATIVE PEOPLE have long settled here but Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo was the first European to arrive in 1542.  He named it San Miguel.    I'm going to find out more about the green sea turtles who live here -- perhaps the only place on the West Coast. I've been introduced to a wonderful, myriad world in these two bays, both loved by Keller, my cap'n of the waterways. I know how lucky I am. "If we are always arriving and departing, it is also true that we are eternally anchored. One's destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things."  - Henry Miller     Next up : Come with Cookie and Keller to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Ashland, Oregon, with theater treasures, the Yorkie-friendly Ashland Springs Hotel and a chocolate festival! And sign up for our blog at whereiscookie.com