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- Traveling around the world with Holiday spirit! Hold it in your heart every day of the year - enjoy our differences, appreciate friends and family and celebrate the joy of life
Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" FRIENDS, FAMILY and travel are what we most cherish. The holiday season, we express our gratitude for the people who mean the most to us -- family, of course, but also friends around the world of many faiths and persuasions. We are thankful to be able to visit and learn from them while expanding our global perspective. In Indonesia, Cookie and Keller visited many temples, with respect and curiosity. Balinese Hinduism is the predominant religion in the province of Bali, while Islam is the predominant religion in Indonesia, with 87% of the population identifying as Muslim. It was our third visit and most fascinating and eye-opening. During the holidays, lights glow warmer, music feels softer, hearts open a little wider. The season carries multiple meanings for our friends around the globe -- whether they celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, Diwali, or simply the turning of the year. This year, we traveled in Islamic, Christian and Hindu countries. We visited with Jewish friends in Europe. As our travels expose us to other cultures, we observe that each tradition holds its own beauty. We all treasure our history and culture, our music, food and holiday traditions. So at this time of year, we express our gratitude. Thankful for friends Maarten and Maarten and their labradoodle who welcomed us in Belgium where most people do not practice a religion but the country has a warm and welcoming spirit. As we celebrate the holiday spirit in our own fashion - may we all honor and respect people of all faiths. May we make our differences threads, not barriers - part of our shared human tapestry. We are thrilled to be part of others' lives during our travels. It gives us an opportunity to listen, learn, and celebrate together. The holiday lights go on in Bari, Italy. We spent a couple weeks with friends in Puglia, observing the rich heritage and influence of the Roman Catholic faith in the architecture of this bustling area in the heel of Italy's boot. Our goal with holiday spirit is to continue to be part of a world where kindness is the common language, and peace is the greatest gift we give one another. We hope you share our belief that keeping an open mind and generous heart are the keys to achieving peace on the planet. Tolerance and broadening our scope are essential pathways to a better world. Time to give thanks, express our love and strive for persona and global peace. We are thankful for our family in Atlanta, where we are welcomed each year for holiday festivities. We are thankful for music, here in Lecce, Italy, where we attended a concert of Vivaldi and Bach in one of the city's grand churches, Lecce Cathedral. . ******************************************************************************************** Cookie and Keller took their niece and nephew-in-law Amarylla and Steve, and their kids, our great niece and nephew Peny and James, on a Big Bus tour of San Francisco. It was a chilly day but our hearts were warm as this bucket list dream came true in a three-generation tour of their home town, a city we love, too. Coming soon: New Year's is the time to tackle your bucket list trip, and we're doing just that, with a Big Bus tour of San Francisco with our family. Whether your dream is a bus trip, a cruise to an exotic island, or a trip to a city you've long yearned to visit, now's the time. We just ticked an entry off our bucket list, with a return visit to the capital of Europe, Brussels, to kick off the holidays. We toured in an all-green bus, visited the world's most complete musical instrument museum, sampled what Belgians consider the world's best chocolate and braved the highways in a rental car in Puglia. What's your dream? What's stopping you from making it come true? We hope our Big Bus adventure will inspire you.
- 'Empire Strips Back' is affectionate 'Star Wars' parody, fun burlesque
Fabulous dancing marks "The Empire Strips Back," in San Diego. Here, Chewbacca and Han Solo dress the stage in a wonderful dance. It's one of the highlights of an action packed, unauthorized burlesque parody of the "Star Wars" trilogy. It is playing through April 30 in San Diego. --(Photo Courtesy of The Empire Strips Back ) 'STAR WARS' HIP, NEW PARODY FEATURES COMEDY, BURLESQUE, SEXY DANCING AS FANS CHEER ON BELOVED CHARACTERS Emcee Eric Newton provides "adults only" banter and slick intros, with clever commentary and a dramatic sweeping cape. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and Craig Ridgwell (and courtesy Lucasfilm/20th Century Fox) Hans Solo and Chewbacca from the 1977 film. The parody faithfully recreates familiar characters and their costumes. THE FORCE was with us -- and "the farce" paid a visit, too -- in a fun, hip, entertaining parody of the wildly successful "Star Wars" films. We settled into comfy chairs in a "pop up" San Diego theater, for a sexy, energetic and affectionate burlesque redo of one of the film industry's most successful endeavors. The crowd whooped and hollered at a risqué reinvention of the 1977 box office block buster and its spinoffs. We were ringside at "The Empire Strips Back" with pop music, props and puppets in a perfect, fun adult entertainment. You'll find plenty of sexual inuendo as the successful romp plays San Diego, the latest of a dozen major Australian and U.S. cities to feature this engaging, original show. It's selling out every venue it plays, and just finished SRO runs in San Francisco and Los Angeles. A half-dozen sexy dancers appear as Snowtroopers, in homage to "The Empire Strikes Back," released in 1980. The show takes its moniker from that chapter of the "Star Wars" oeuvre. ONE NEED NOT be a "Star Wars" fan to enjoy the show. We'd both seen the original -- I covered the 1977 world premier -- so we had an affection for the larger-than-life characters and storyline. The audience was mostly people half our age -- hip folks and sci-fi nerds not yet born when the first movie was released. But they knew the characters, perhaps better than the older fans did. Everyone loved the show. One longtime lover of the series told us at intermission that although she considers herself a purist, she thoroughly enjoyed this pleasing new parody -- even though it has little to do with the original story. IF YOU LOVE colorful characters and over-the-top costumes, beautiful lighting and terrific dancing, the show is sure to have you laughing and enjoying. It is a stripped down, dressed up, fast paced parody of the beloved trilogy. Jabba the Hutt gets huge applause at "The Empire Strips Back." The fun begins before you enter the auditorium when ushers direct you to your seats with their lightsabers. The delightful emcee, Eric Newton, opens the show with a comely nymph from another galaxy gyrating, smiling inviting us in. A full bar does booming business, enhancing cheers, whoops and whistles from the full house. The fun tone is set as Eric takes center stage to introduce each fast moving act. Sultry, sexy dancers in beautifully lit sequences delight sell-out audiences at a pop-up theater venue in San Diego. A captive Princess Leia moves sexily in a bikini to Nine Inch Nails’ "Closer." R2D2 does a cute cameo as a space pimp, making the heavens rain by ejecting wads of cash to the delight of the well lubricated audience. Sexy stormtroopers stomp and grind to a pounding White Strips tune, "Seven Nation Army." A gigantic Jabba the Hutt has the audience giggling and cheering as he gyrates, smiles and leers. A lightsaber has so much power that its bearer must strip. There's a stunning dance number by an Olympic style gymnast as Han Solo with an endearing Chewbacca the Wookie. Their sweet, energetic dance has the audience on its feet -- goths and nerds alike. Fun technical effects include moody lighting. PREPARE YOURSELF for some seriously sultry Stormtroopers, an alluring Boba Fett, tempting Twi'leks, a delightfully indifferent Taun Taun, sophisticated Skywalker, Droids aplenty and -- as they say in Vaudeville, "all that and more." Creator Russall S. Beattie is the muse behind this unauthorized burlesque parody which originated in Australia. The fact that Lucas and Disney haven't endorsed the sell-out production doesn't phase the crowd. Our Saturday night audience was in a "Star Wars" frenzy, clapping, shouting, cheering for two hours. During the 15-minute intermission, the lobby did a booming business on $14 wine and various souvenirs and paraphernalia. Once you get your tickets, you'll enter the world of parody and fun at a new pop-up venue. CREATOR BEATTIE'S imagination is limitless. The "adults only" caveat comes for suggestive dancing, bawdy sketches and Eric's lively, x-rated emcee banter. The special effects are fascinating and larger than life, a la that gigantic Jabba the Hutt creature, a wondrous, on utter yet endearing arrogance. An accomplished ensemble plays UP NEXT: Heading into Katoomba town, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller are just off the train and off to their hotel. Come with us to explore Katoomba, Australia, in all its majesty. From the wonders of Scenic World, to fine dining, a historic rail station and enticing boutiques, this quiet little town near Sydney, Australia, is in another world. A world class inn, Hotel Mountain Heritage, offers spectacular Blue Mountain views and a terrific restaurant. If you're looking for unique surroundings, friendly people, ethnic food and lovely lodging near beautiful Jamison Valley, don't miss Katoomba. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more. www.whereiscookie.com
- Sunlight Basin: Scenic highway climbs through fields of wildflowers, gorgeous rock formations
CHIEF JOSEPH HIGHWAY PROVIDES THRILLS, PANORAMIC VIEW OF SUNLIGHT BASIN AFTER CLIMB UP SPECTACULAR BEARTOOTH PASS The aptly named Sunlight Basin is aglow in autumn as the colors change and the air grows crisp and cool. Keller and Nick and Nora pause for a picnic with view near Sunlight Bridge. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IMAGINE you'd never been to the northern Rockies. What would you expect? Stunning mountains, clouds out of a Hallmark card display, guest ranches that remind of the 1950s TV shows. It's all there in the wonders of the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, which offers motorists unforgettable scenery and an opportunity to commune with nature from a bird's eye view. WE TOOK two of the country's most beautiful drives in a three-day period. Chief Joseph, a great Nez Perce peace maker, gave the highway its name. The Bear's Tooth, directly left of center, gives the famed highway its name. The Beartooth Pass with its wondrous and harrowing hairpin turns, glaciers -- even in August -- and pristine lakes and mountain streams. Then after a couple days R&R at Hunter Park Ranch, we headed out the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway with its eye-popping bridge. The Beartooth road, called by the late CBS newsman Charles Kuralt, "the most beautiful drive in America," is known ats the Beartooth Scenic Highway. Lakes, granite peaks and the famed "Bear's Tooth," from which the mountain range and then the highway took their names. Sunlight Bridge over sunlight Creek on the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway offers a breathtaking view into the gorge. Then Sunlight Basin and the Chief Joseph Highway is Wyoming Highway 296. Guide books refer to it as the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. Named after the great Nez Perce Indian leader it follows the route the chief took in 1877 when he led his people out of Yellowstone National Park and into Montana. Their goal was to flee the U.S. Cavalry and escape into Canada. The great chief surrendered to U.S. General Nelson A. Miles in the Bear Paw mountains of northern Montana. His eloquent speech has been often quoted: "Hear me, my chiefs: My heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever." This beautiful route honors Joseph as it winds through the Shoshone National Forest and Absaroka Mountains, finally passing through the unfortunately named Dead Indian Pass. The Pollard Hotel features a lively menu befitting its history. MANY PEOPLE like to take the Beartooth Pass from Red Lodge, stay a few days in Cooke City, then wend a leisurely way out the Chief Joseph Highway. We went from Hunter Peak Ranch into Cody, then back out the Chief Joseph route and on back to our corner of the Beartooths through Bridger and into Rockvale near Laurel, back to Absarokee and on home up the West Fork of the Stillwater. A breathtaking few days of spectacular autumn-colored scenery. THE 46 MILES of the Chief Joseph drive includes one of the most awesome bridges in this part of the country. Both cars and pedestrians can transit the bridge, with very little separation between the two lanes. I passed on walking across, owing to lifelong vertigo, but Keller and the Yorkies rose to the occasion. And returned safely while I gazed at the wonders -- along with a dozen view-inspired motorcyclists. COMING UP: We continue our autumn odyssey with a look at Red Lodge and the Pollard Hotel, where a menu fit for kings and cowboys, royals and rodeo queens awaits. We infuse our travelogues with a sense of fun and adventure and hope that conveys itself to you! Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com
- King's Highway hike is one of Spain's finest and most challenging
When Cookie first set eyes on this bridge -- one of several on King's Walkway, not far from Malaga -- she nearly turned back..... ...but Cookie persisted and joined Bruce Keller and our amiable Viator guide Jose to scale the walkway and survive to climb again. Kings Highway hike near Malaga We recommend the fun and safety of Viator's tour of this astonishing place. RECOVERING COWARD FINDS HER METTLE TESTED HIGH ABOVE THE TREES IN SOUTHERN SPAIN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Relaxing on a lovely train ride from Malaga, enroute to the village of El Chorro, Cookie anticipates the climb. It was not going to frighten me. I could do it without shaking hands..... Thousands have climbed it through the years. Come on, Cookie, calm down.... When something frightens me, I try to approach it logically and overcome my fear. In the case of Spain's famed Caminito Del Rey, "King's Walkway," I considered this fact: it has been safely climbed for more than a year since it re-opened in 2015. I also considered why it closed after nearly a century: five walkers plunged to their deaths between 1999 and 2000 when the eye-popping paths and bridges fell into disrepair. Cookie and Jose enter a cave leading to the start of the famous walkway. Still, we would climb with a skilled guide. Jose, an anthropologist, historian and native Spaniard, is an accomplished climber and hiker. He had navigated the pathway dozens of times. Jose helps suit up smiling Cookie up with hard hat and hair net. THE TRAIN RIDE through the lovely Spanish countryside took us in a few relaxing hours from beautiful Malaga, where we spent an enchanting week, to picturesque Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola, Marbella, Ronda, Ardales and El Chorro, where we met our guide for a half-hour drive to the climb. The narrow gorge is actually in El Chorro, near Ardales in the province of Málaga. We knew from research that we would wear hard hats and hair netting and that we must not have a fear of heights (I lied -- I suffer from vertigo.) My climbing partner and photographer, Bruce Keller, is unafraid. He is a scuba diver, water skier, hiker, climber -- adept at navigating the unknown -- both literally and figuratively. Only on the train did he tell me that the climb was closed for 14 years, with a multi-million dollar "redo" and that many consider it "the world's scariest walkway." I FELT LIKE a cowardly extra in an Indiana Jones film as we bent down to climb through a cave that would lead us to the entrance of Caminito del Rey. No turning back now... Grateful for strong reinforcement along much of the walkway, Cookie still found it reassuring to touch the stone walk to her right or hang on to her guide Jose. The walkway has held a mythic history in Spain, since 1901 when construction began -- finishing in late 1905. Its original purpose was practical -- energy related -- not designed to provide entertainment or recreation. The project was conceived to provide a means for workers to reach an important pair of hydroelectric power plants located at waterfalls along the route. It would also provide a way to transport supplies and equipment. A breathtaking view of the hillside is available -- if one can look down. ITS NAME CAME about in 1921 when King Alfonso XIII braved the Caminito for the inauguration of a dam at the site. A decade later, Alfonso was forced into exile when the second Spanish Republic was declared in 1941. But the clever name stuck and Alfonso's great-grandson, the current King Felipe, cut the ribbon on the new improved Caminito when it opened March 28 of 2015. The king, son of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, posed for photos on the walkway. So I would follow these royal footsteps. A pair of Swiss walkers pauses. The dam was built to provide water to Malaga's residents. Climbers killed on the walkway are honored. Nearing the end of the walk, Cookie looks straight ahead -- not down. Keller is calm. AS WE THREE WALKED -- I with one hand on the rock wall and the other on the steel bars much of the time Jose described the evolution of the walkway. Before closing for the "redo," it was a thrill for daredevils such as Jose and his college buddies. When he told me the reason for closing the walkway for 15 years, I nearly turned back. (It's not a roundtrip -- there's one way in, one way out -- so this would have been inconvenient.) Five people fell to their deaths in 2001 -- three of them careless thrill-seekers forcing a redo of the three-plus kilometer trail and bridges. We did encounter one 60-something woman going against foot traffic, turning back only a fifth of the way in. "Demasiado para mi," she muttered, head shaking. ("Too much for me.") Despite this unnerving meeting, we pressed on. "You'll be fine," Jose reassured, suggesting I hang on to him for strength. THE NEW walkway is sturdy and industrial strength, a massive effort of aluminum and stainless steel attached to vertical walk face. Skilled mountain climbers were hired for the construction, swaying in the breezes more than 100-plus meters above land and water. The renovation weighed in at over 3 million Euros with the Andalusian government and city of Malaga footing the bill. They hoped for a major tourist attraction and that is materializing. The tourism bureau touts extra safety measures. This recovering coward was grateful for every one. And thankful for a tall glass of white wine after in the nearby tavern. You may book the walk for a full day, including lunch, with pick-ups and transfers, or just the walk. To book: www.smartholidaysandalusia.com; www.viator.com UP NEXT: Malaga's magnificent Museuo Automovilistico is a wonderland of gorgeous autos and vintage finery, equally eye-catching. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us late Friday when we post for each weekend.
- Take a kid along to enrich your travel pleasures: Tips for Traveling with Children
Introducing our family to the pleasures of our much loved Hawaii added pleasure to the trip in many ways. Here we are -- Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, at left, with our Bay Area family, the Ganners: Steve, James, Amarylla and Peny, on the shores of Hilton's Waikoloa Resort on the Big Island. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE LOVE to travel with our niece, nephew-in-law and their kids. Seeing a new place with a youngster gives an extra kick to all of us. Kids give you a perspective you may not have had -- or one you lost after you "grew up." The innocence and enthusiasm of kids helps you get more bang for your travel buck. And you learn along with them. Kids find ways to explore and enjoy without the constraints imposed by adulthood. Here Peny and James make a game out of hotel yard decor. Traveling with children enriches adult experience Introducing a young person to a familiar beloved city is mind expanding. Taking a child to a theater, aquarium, concert hall, park or museum you love enhances the adult visitor's perception. It's also a chance to teach protocol and proper behavior. Seeing the delight of a child experiencing something new adds to the fun, here feeding fish at Barcelona's aquarium, a way to enrich your own aquarium visit and teach a child about precious sea life. Taking a kid to a palace, formal garden or stately home and introducing the child to tour guides, scholars, musicians and artists inevitably bolsters our own knowledge. It may take time and homework to research and answer a child's questions. The enthusiasm of youth is contagious. It's a joy to watch kids build character and become more courageous, confident and independent as a result of travel and exposure. A trip to Disney World here, or Disneyland in California, or any amusement park is a good way to rediscover the child within. For children, experiencing the inevitable pitfalls of travel is part of the adventure. While we adults might be anxious when we get lost or battle a language barrier, kids usually don't. When we resort to the web to decipher a menu, a child will point to a photo or just jump in and try something new. Children enjoy the challenges and roll with them more easily. We take our great niece and nephew to the circus whenever we can, here in Redwood City, California. TRAVEL ALSO introduces tolerance and acceptance, commodities we all need. As Mark Twain said, travel is the enemy of prejudice, so it's wonderful to watch children enjoy, accept and embrace other cultures. A hula class on the beach with guests from Indonesia, France, Chile and Norway was a highlight for me in Hawaii. What fun to use my college French, and for all of us to learn to hula together. Treasured time was spent with new friends and my niece and grand niece learning, enriching, expanding our global view. The innocence of kids embraces the new, here at Maui's Surfing Goat Dairy where kids meet kids. ******************************************************************************************** Celebrating the holidays in a new place adds dimension. Here, a double rainbow on the Kona Coast of the Big Island made a special New Year's! We take a look next week at what we value during holiday time -- friends, family, travel and extending tolerance and grace. NEXT UP: Christmas and Hanukkah are distinct holidays from different faiths -- Christianity and Judaism. Their dates sometimes overlap due to the different calendars they follow. Often our Jewish friends celebrate Christmas while at the same time, we respect Hanukkah. It began this year at nightfall on Sunday, Dec. 14 and ends on Monday, Dec. 22 this year. As always our Christmas is Dec. 25, which this year we celebrate on a Thursday. While the holidays are always close together, sometimes they coincide as in 2024 when the first night of Hanukkah fell on Christmas Day. That won't happen again until 2035. Meanwhile, we reflect on the importance of respect for one another and various traditions -- both religious and secular. Let's make this holiday season a time to celebrate friendships new and old, family and the joys of travel, nature and life. L'chaim!
- C.M. Russell Museum: Cowboy artist was lousy student with a vision. Savvy wife ran the business as he became a famous western artist
The studio of famed western artist Charles Marion Russell is much as he left it and is part of the nationally known museum named after the man who lived from 1864 to1926. Known as one of America’s greatest artists, he lived the life he captured on canvas, creating a fine historical record of Western cultures, landscapes, and wildlife. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" FAMED WESTERN artist Charlie Russell was a lousy student with a talent for drawing. Born in St. Louis, he didn't like school much. At not quite 16 years, he convinced his parents to let him leave formal education to set out on his own for Montana. In 1880, in the wide open spaces of Big Sky Country, he worked as a sheepherder and didn't enjoy that either. But the man who would become one of the world's most famous western artists had a vision. Luck played a part, too, in the people he met, places he landed. Charlie Russell's paintings range from elegant landscapes to comical observations. He painted and sketched more than 2,000 works in his lifetime. His artwork is acclaimed for its attention to detail and depiction of life as it was in the early days of the west's settlement. The cowboy painter spent time on his paintings and drawing, often trading sketches for room and board and drinks at the bar. Gradually, Russell made a name for himself and eventually exhibited widely in the U.S. and Europe. His success is due in great part to his business savvy wife, Nancy Cooper Russell, who is given proper credit for her role in his fame at the C.M. Russell Museum in Great Falls. They met in 1895 at a dinner party at the home of one of Charlie's friends. Nancy was the live-in housekeeper. She caught Charlie's eye. They courted and were married the next year. The artist cultivated friendships with native Americans, and captured their strength, elegance and connection to the earth. C.M. Russell Museum has an international reputation. Its 3,000-plus pieces of Western art are beautifully curated a large complex covering an entire city block of town. It's well worth a couple days to explore the museum and beyond. Great Falls is a pretty, mid-sized city -- around 60,000 people -- nestled between mountain ranges, rivers and wilderness areas. Most visitors spend a couple days -- at least one at the cowboy painter C.M. Russell Museum. There are hotels and restaurants for most budgets. The home and studio of famed western artist C.M. Russell is visited by thousands of tourists each year. Here, Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers tour. Cowboy painter's C.M. Russell Museum doesn't feel overwhelming despite its breadth. It includes an impressive 16 exhibition galleries, educational programming spaces, a research center and a lovely outdoor sculpture garden. A favorite of visitors is Russell's fully-restored home and studio. What strikes the viewer of his art is his eye for a vast country in transition, with all its virtues, and vanities. Near destruction of the bison, racism, ignorance and intrusion of the white man into nature and native life are all astutely documented. Culture, landscape and wildlife all take a turn and often mingle in his detailed paintings. Charlie Russell and his wife, Nancy, made a successful team. She understood the business end of the partnership. He was happy to be the artist. THE HOME HAS a charm unique to the west, with a glimpse into the life of the family. The studio is charming, with Charlie's sketches, personal effects and architectural nuances. It's a studio that looks loved and lived in, a National Historic Landmark, where he lived and created for 24 years alongside his astute wife and business partner Nancy Cooper Russell. Plan to spend at least three hours in this treasure of the Treasure State. More information or to visit: cmrussell.org Seeing Legoland or Disneyland, a park, a new hotel, a museum, with children gives adults a new perspective. Here, Cookie in green, with her niece Amarylla, and her two kids, Peny and James. UP NEXT: If you haven't traveled with a youngster, consider it! Take a niece or nephew, grandchild or favorite little person with you on a day outing or a long trip. We often take part of a trip with our family, and find it enriching and eye-opening. It enhances a journey -- long or short. You'll likely plan your time better and make use of resources you might not consider without another generation or two along. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on family, performance, the arts, nature and more.
- No place like London for mixing new and old: history, food, theater, architecture, excitement
London's skyline is a striking commentary on architectural evolution. This street scene illustrates the blend of history and innovation. With dozens of medieval landmarks like the Tower of London, there are beautiful modern buildings such as The Shard, with 26 stories, dozens of restaurants, residential living and a five-star hotel. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" "THERE'S NO PLACE like London." That a line sung by a young sailor named Anthony Hope as he marvels at London in Stephen Sondheim's brilliant musical, "Sweeney Todd." It's a line we utter each time we visit this exciting city of nine million. We, too, are enamored. With a rich history dating back centuries and its exciting blend of contemporary and medieval buildings, it never fails to engage the traveler. Thousands gathered in the Mall outside Buckingham Palace to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's record-setting 70 years on the throne. A Royal Air Force "fly past" noted the occasion. London dates back to Roman times. It has seen coronations, beheadings, royal weddings and many governments. A terrible fire in 1666 nearly leveled the town and left thousands homeless. As the capital of England and the United Kingdom, it has rebuilt and thrived, surviving war, plague and political turmoil. Today, millions of travelers count it as a favorite city for its wonderful delightful mix of theater, neighborhoods, architecture, museums and some of the world's best ethnic food. London's train stations are a world unto themselves. Street scenes highlight modern buildings and stately old ones, famous cathedrals and historic bars and restaurants. School groups on tour in the foreground mix with travelers, shoppers, businessmen and tourists. WE RECOMMEND taking organized tours to make the most of your time. We also recommend the London Pass by Go City, a digital sightseeing pass with entry to 95 top attractions including the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey and a hop-on-off bus tour. Two in particular are favorites: exploring and hopping on and off London's Big Bus and taking a food tour with London's Eating Europe. On our fun day with Eating Europe, Alexander brought London's east end to life, regaling us with anecdotes and insights into kings, queens, scoundrels, lords, ladies, and ladies of the evening. Our gastronomic-history adventure stopped at elegant eateries, casual fish and chips joints as well as London's oldest pub, "Ten Bells," where in 1881, Jack the Ripper lured prostitute victims, to their grim deaths. Poppies in London has multiple locations and is famous for its paper-wrapped fish and chips. Here, "Keller and Cookie" await their order. WHATEVER YOU do in London, you'll be entertained and likely want to return. We have visited two dozen times, and will return soon. London has it all: food stores, festivals, buskers, bustling energy, world class theater and museums, nightlife, parks and distinctive neighborhoods with welcoming pubs and architectural wonders. Once you visit, you'll understand young Andrew's fascination and agree "there's no place like London." London's Big Bus tour stops at many famous landmarks, offering a comprehensive overview. Here, the Shard looms, with London's best viewing. MORE INFO: www.bigbustourslondon.com www.londonpass.com www.eatingeuropelondon.com Famed cowboy artist Charlie Russell lived in Great Falls, Montana, for much of his life. His home is preserved at the C.M. Russell Museum, Great Falls. UP NEXT: We're always on the move, with the world our oyster. In the next few weeks, we're touting the pleasures of traveling with kids, explaining the advantages of city pass cards, touring a museum dedicated to cowboy artist C.M. "Charlie" Russell, surviving an encounter with the Komodo Dragon in Indonesia, swimming with dolphins and celebrating the New Year with fireworks, fanfare and contemplation. Remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, the arts, performance, nature, family and more.
- Thanksgiving feasting abroad: Find a fun place for a meal or snack to make a holiday special even where Thanksgiving isn't celebrated
Cookie's favorite Thanksgiving meal is not turkey -- although it is available on cruise ships and in many hotels catering to Americans on Thanksgiving. It's rare lamb chops with asparagus, lentils and a balsamic drizzle. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" TRAVEL IS FUN for us, and no part of travel is more pleasurable than exploring the gastronomic pleasures of far-away places. Especially on holidays, a special meal is a highlight of the trip. We love watching what the locals order in European restaurants, and aren't shy about asking a fellow diner what that attractive offering on his freshly served plate is. A breakfast buffet in Tarragona, made a Thanksgiving morning special in Spain. HERE ARE a few tips for dining abroad on Thanksgiving or any holiday. May they broaden your tastes -- and not your waistline -- without flattening your wallet, and make you a bit more adventuresome on the road. * Use your concierge. Hotels are proud of this amenity and the concierge is often the most knowledgeable person in the hotel when it comes to good places to dine and celebrate a holiday. He or she will also know which places cater to locals, or where you might find other Americans -- whatever your preference. We prefer local favorites, not tourist traps. Cookie and Keller enjoy a leisurely Thanksgiving weekend lunch in Monterosso. It's not a holiday in Cinque Terre but they made it one by celebrating. * We've found our most relaxing meals in Europe are off-season (before the Memorial Day holiday, when you can find succulent spring produce and Easter feasts, and after Labor Day through our Thanksgiving weekend which is not a holiday in many places. You'll miss the huge crowds and find restaurants less busy and staff more accommodating. In France, Italy and Spain in November, chefs, restaurateurs and key suppliers are not as taxed as in summer months when Americans flock to Europe. So October and November are our favorite times to be there. Much of Asia and Australia experience delightful weather then. * C check addresses and opening-closing hours. If you have your heart set on a particular restaurant, make sure it is open! Consider bar food and appetizers instead of a full meal. A memorable Thanksgiving dinner can be enjoyed on a a cruise. Here, Amarylla, Ellen, Robbie and Christene celebrate on Celebrity's Century. * Keep an eye on key dates for religious festivals, public holidays, big soccer and other sporting events. We also avoid places with televisions -- or you might find your bistro turned into a World Cup screening room. Go back a street or two from the main drag. Look for an outing to make your Thanksgiving or other holiday special. Here we enjoyed a wine tasting with a sommelier in southern France. He gave tips and made reservations for a dinner later. We pay attention to street stalls and markets and look for menu items featuring those ingredients. *Cruises are a great place for holiday meals. They always celebrate our USA holidays with special foods, even if they aren't American based. Always ask your waiter to recommend your appetizer, entree and dessert. He knows what the food looks like in the kitchen and what the chefs put their most energy into. ************************************************************ UP NEXT: There's no place like London. That a line from a Sweeney Todd lyric in "Sweeney Todd," but it's a line we've uttered many times in visiting this exciting city. The English city dates back to Roman times, with a rich history and a terrible fire that nearly leveled the town. As the capital of England and the United Kingdom, it has seen coronations, beheadings, royal weddings and a many governments. It has survived war and political turmoil and we count it as a favorite city -- for its wonderful theater, neighborhoods and delightful mix of ethnic food. Westminster Abbey is a much photographed London building, scene of many historic events.
- Flamenco feast in Spain features performances of famous showy art form
Flamenco dancers dazzle with their movements and hypnotic footwork. CENTURIES OLD DANCE TRADITION LIVES ON IN ENGAGING SPANISH VENUES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The swirling and twirling of scarves is part of the flamenco tradition. AS A YOUNG bride on honeymoon in Granada, I witnessed my first flamenco dance. I was mesmerized. The dancers were a mix of ages and shapes, but all had the expressive moves down pat -- their arms and feet moving in time to the intricate footwork, shawls whipping around their bodies. From our center table in a small dimly lit cafe, we could see the facial expressions and drops of sweat. I pressed a flower that flew from the head of one of the dancers during an intricate move. Dancers take individual bows at the end of each piece. THE TIME honored dance form became famous in Spain but reflects contributions from many other world cultures. It usually features a solo performer, backed by musicians and sometimes a partner. Hand clapping and that distinctive percussive footwork give flamenco its flair, enhanced by intricate hand, arm, and body movements. Today's flamenco reflects music of Latin American, Cuban, African and Jewish traditions. It was originally not set to music but was accompanied by emotional singing and clapping of hands called “toque de palmas." The company takes bows on stage, with the featured singer in the center here. IN OUR annual forays to southern Spain, we always include at least one night of flamenco. On this most recent trip, we gilded the flamenco lily, choosing two very different cities and several venues to enjoy this integral part of Andalucian culture. Both Barcelona and Malaga offer fine flamenco options. One can find as many definitions of flamenco as there are tapas bars. Most scholars agree that flamenco is composed of four elements: voice, or cante; dance, or baile; guitar, or toque, and "jaleo," which roughly translated means "hell raising." Clapping, stomping, shouts of encouragement to the featured dancer convey the emotion of the numbers, often laments about life's sorrows and the human condition. Flamenco guitarists and rhythm makers are an integral part of every flamenco show. Dancers, singers and musicians share a final bow. One of our shows, "Encuentros en la cumbre del baile," or Encounters at the pinnacle of dance, featured two of Spain's most famous flamenco dancers, Miguel "El Rubio" and Palmoa Fantova, backed by Maria Carmona and Sara Barrero. Another show, "Tablao Flamenco Cordobes," promised to convey the mystery of flamenco's singing and poetry -- paying homage to Gypsy, Moorish, and Andalusian folklore. As our waiter said, "flamenco is an outcry, an expression of love and pain, or enjoyment and happiness. It is meant to be felt, not necessarily understood." More information: to find flamenco on the web, google the city and flamenco: flamencomalaga.com flamencobarcelona.com All aboard next week for tips on Eurail travel with our team, Cookie and Keller, exploring the world with enthusiasm. UP NEXT: Eurail was the way to see Europe for many young Americans in the 1970s. Our two young at heart travelers take to Eurail again, so all aboard with tips on seeing Europe anew again by train. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more at whereiscookie.com
- Emotional flamenco, fado speak to the soul in Spain and Portugal
Flamenco -- that showy, colorful dance of southern Spain -- is performed with rhythmic clapping and instruments. Swirling scarves and lacy skirts and ruffles are part of this Barcelona performance. Southern Spain, Portugal present emotional flamenco, fado, with flair, feeling, for deeply stirring shows STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Fado in Porto is a revered tradition, here at the Ideal Club de Fado, which is a formal setting, more concert hall. than bar. MUSIC AND DANCE have long helped us understand and interpret culture. These art forms skirt across language barriers and head straight for the heart. From the chants of the Buddhist monks to the native American's war dance, to the cantor's song to lead the congregation, music is a metaphor for what we stand for and believe in. The roots of flamenco are mysterious -- not unlike the dance itself. But the beginning of the wildly rhythmic accompanied dance seems to be in the Roma migration from Rajasthan of northwest India to Spain. That was sometime between the 9th and 14th centuries. These migrants brought musical instruments --tambourines, bells, and wooden castanets -- to complement an extensive repertoire of songs and dances adapted through centuries to today's flamenco. IN PORTUGAL , fado's history is a bit more recent, around 1820. It can be presented in a formal program or organized restaurant act. It can also unfold in impromptu fashion, a gathering among friends at a tavern -- usually after a number of adult beverages. We've heard fado sung in restaurants and cafes, gardens, bullfights, streets and alleys. Officially, though, it features a singer Flamenco is presented here, "Tablao Flamenco Cordobes," with spirited dancers, musicians and singers, who also provide rhythmic clapping and chanting. -- male or female -- and two guitarists. One plays the rhythm and bass guitar and one plays the lyrical Portuguese guitar, also called fado guitar. It's a large, resonating instrument with 6 pairs of strings and a pear-shaped harmonic box. It was fun to see and hear so many very different fado shows -- a wild range -- from a formal setting in a guitar museum in Porto to a small, smoky club in Lisbon with only a few tables. We also heard fado at an outdoor restaurant where the singers moved from table to table. WE TOOK in a total of five fado shows and concerts -- one nearly every other night -- during our two-week stay in Portugal. The venues ranged from that intimate cafe with lots of drinking, merriment and only a few tables, to the more dignified guitar museum venue in Porto with a glass of port daintily served at intermission and the audience quietly respectful. In Malaga, we've experienced two wonderful flamenco shows at Tablao Flamenco Alegria Malaga. Flamenco Malaga is also inviting, a smaller venue in a restored mansion. Both offer changing repertoire and are worthy representations of this time honored artform. Flamenco in Malaga: authentic, enchanting. "Keller and Cookie" at fado in A Baiuca, in Lisbon's famous old Alfama. In Lisbon we tried a fado show in A Baiuca, a lively tonic to jet lag. The house is small with only a few tables, and the lead singer is in her 80s. It was a treat to watch her mingle with the crowd before the show, and during the breaks, as the musicians showed their instrumental stuff and gave her a break. THE PORTUGUESE love their fado, as Spaniards adore flamenco. Presenting fado shows in their purest form is a specialty of the beautiful Casa da Guitarra. The museum displays dozens of beautifully restored guitars which focuses on the plucked string instrument so connected to fado but offers much more than guitars. This fado singer is past 80 and still entertaining at A Baiuca. This unique museum developed an acoustically perfect place to hear the art form in its pure, traditional sense. Deep in Lisbon's Al Fama, its oldest area, a fado club is indoors with a larger venue in the outdoor plaza. Before the concert, we admired various traditional guitars like the viola braguesa or the viola campaniça -- learning that viola means guitar in Portuguese. The acoustic and classical guitars, mandolins and acoustic bass guitars are all exquisite instruments built in Portugal. A Severa fado show has been around since 1955, and is one of the best known in Lisbon. THEN IT was show time as a singer delivered a dozen heartfelt songs -- eyes closed, shawl tightly held. The two art forms -- fado and flamenco -- are time honored and youngsters are taught reverence for them at an early age. Flamenco in Barcelona is the Spanish expression of emotion and soul. Here, a rousing show at popular Flamenco Cordobes. Many young flamenco dancers begin as students of their moms, aunties, even grandmothers. Fado in Portugal reflects the culture's belief in destiny and a deep sense of fate. In Spain, flamenco speaks to the human condition, too. But in flamenco, singing is secondary to the dance with its astonishing tapping and clicking. The singing -- as in fado -- has a sometimes tormented sound -- poignant but sad. Said our singer friend, "Flamenco can be a song of love -- for a partner or mother, -- it can also express pain and heartbreak." FARM WORKERS tired of toiling, rejected lovers, lonely travelers missing their homeland -- all have flamenco and fado interpretations. Flamenco Cordobes is perhaps Barcelona's most famous flamenco venue and we've made several pilgrimages over the years of visiting this famous city. It is located deep down and slightly off "La Rambla," or Las Ramblas, that famous tree-lined pedestrian street winding nearly a mile through town. We like Cordobes because it offers delightful authentic food, then spirited flamenco and world class dancers and singers. Says our friend, "There's a magic to flamenco because it comes from deep emotion." In flamenco, the phrase is "el duende," meaning mystery, excitement, magic. IN FLAMENCO, each story comes to life in song, guitar and dance. As with fado, all this is usually accompanied by copious wine and sometimes tears, but always applause, shouts and whistles. When visiting all three cities this piece highlights -- Lisbon, Porto and Barcelona -- we recommend the invaluable city cards, which save time and money on venues and transportation and give entertainment options. More information or to book fado in Porto and Lisbon, and flamenco in Malaga or Barcelona: www.barcelonaturisme.com visitbarcelona.com www.flamencomalaga.com www.portocvb.com www.portocitycard www.lisboacard.org www.casadaguitarra.pt info@asevera.com www.portocvb.com www.visitlisboa.com www.tablaocordobes.com www.getyourguide.com/lisbon-l42/fado-shows-tc273/ . BEST BET: Southern California theater lovers are laughing themselves silly at "Into the Breeches!" at North Coast Repertory Theatre. A crack cast, lively pace and touching story coalesce in this romp set in WWII New England. With the men at war, woman take over a struggling theater to keep it afloat while the fellas are "over there." Gender-bending wisdom and humor -- smoothly directed -- make this play both timely and timeless. The varied Rep season showcases classics, new work, comedy and musicals -- "Pippin" to "The Cherry Orchard." For tickets, call 858 481-1055. Or: northcoastrep.org The run is through Nov. 13. Amsterdam's canals are legendary, and form the heart of this picturesque Dutch city. We spent four days on these waters, here the "Seven Sisters" on the Amstel River. UP NEXT : Amsterdam beckons. We move north in Europe, setting off on the canals which we recently explored for four sunny early autumn days. The famous canals of Amsterdam are a lifeline for commerce, tourism and socializing. We look at them and their amazing construction, and catch native Dutch folks and tourists out on a sunny fall day. Come along, enjoy the water. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more: AND PLEASE, share the links. www.whereiscookie.com
- Barcelona Card (Official Tourist Card) saves time and money touring Gaudi's architectural masterpieces and more
STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Fanciful balconies of Antoni Gaudi's Casa Batllo are made of stone and shell-shaped, reflecting the architect's marine inspiration. Tours are available. We recommend the Barcelona tourism card cards offer huge savings to travelers. Barcelona's is among the best for its access to the world of famed architect Antoni Gaudi. Barcelona Card was a perfect match for our interest in architecture and the genius of Gaudi. We returned to his classic buildings with the card, enjoying Gaudi's distinct design and appreciating the card for its huge savings. Gaudi's Park Guell is a fantastic mecca of the architect's playful imagination and love of nature., here enjoyed by Bruce Keller and Cookie. For us, the Barcelona Card, the city's official tourist card, is a must. We use city cards wherever possible -- Rome, Amsterdam, New York, Jerusalem, Chicago, Singapore, etc., cities with cohesive impressive design. Barcelona stands out for the colorful, organic, nature-inspired forms of famed architect Antoni Gaudi. Barcelona is Gaudi, and vice-versa. His Catalan Modernist style is known worldwide for its ornate detail and pleasing shapes resembling shells and sea creatures, trees and flowers. We've visited Sagrada Familia and Park Guell many times, but our favorite Gaudi inspirations, which the pass covered, are his homes designed for aristocratic Barcelonans: Casa Batllo and Casa Mila or La Pedrera. Barcelona's city card admitted us to these wonders. Barcelona's Palau De La Musica Catalana is one of Barcelona's many inventive architectural creations. BEYOND GAUDI, the Barcelona Card (official tourist card) allows free or discounted entree to classic buildings, including medieval architecture, Art Nouveau elegance in the Palau De La Musica Catalana, and an array of 21st Century towers and business centers. Barcelona's creative spirit and interesting history have created a striking blend of historic and contemporary buildings, a vibrant urban landscape unique to the world. A stroll along Barcelona's streets reveals stately buildings, wide boulevards, gardens and fountains. More on Barcelona and how to purchase the money-saving Barcelona tourist card: www.barcelonatourisme.com UP NEXT: Thanksgiving is upon is. That traditional American holiday is around the corner, with family and friends gathering in familiar places to enjoy too much good food and one another's company. But what if you find yourself abroad during the holiday, and still wish to make it special and toast our American tradition? We have answers and fun suggestions for good food and a good read wherever you spend the day. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for fresh insights into travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Thanksgiving in Turkey was a fun way to try appetizers. We don't necessarily have a full meal when we're celebrating a holiday abroad.
- Porcelain potter Cosgriffe retires from studio, parts with treasured collection
Rick Cosgriffe's decades long fascination with Oriental brush stroke painting shows in his graceful and detailed work. These jars are inspired by the wildflowers of his native Montana. Sumi brush painting influenced Montana born artist's unique pottery style PORCELAIN COLLECTION GOES FOR SALE AS ARTIST MARKETS COLLECTION OF VINTAGE SHOW PIECES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Artist Cosgriffe's fine porcelain pottery caught the eye of New York Times art critic John Canaday, who called his pieces "elegant -- still wet with the feel of the brush." PORCELAIN has ancient roots in the world of art. And for many years, a Montana native has been carefully creating fine arts porcelain show pieces. Artist Rick Cosgriffe is retiring his pottery studio, selling a collection of unique pieces he has crafted since the 1970s during three decades at the potter's wheel. Rick's hand painted bowls, vases and platters reflect his study of sumi painting and his love of nature and the American west as well. The one of a kind collection spans his entire career, showcasing his evolution as an award winning potter, based for many years on the west coast. Rick in Europe last month with his brother-in- law Bruce Keller. If this sounds boastful or braggadocious, it's because I'm his sister and a fan. Cherry blossoms and birds are frequent motifs in Cosgriffe's art, here on a platter featuring the faithful chickadee. I've watched him grow as an artist since we were children drawing birthday cards. Rick left Montana in the early 1970s to apprentice at the Hayes Pottery Studio in Point Arena, California. Jim Hayes, a native New Yorker and my brother-in-law, invited Rick to study ceramics and learn the craft. It was soon apparent to Jim and his wife, my late sister Peny, that Rick had tremendous talent. As his reputation grew on the west coast, I helped promote his art and sell his porcelain at art fairs and juried shows, including Yellowstone Art Museum. One of our patrons was the wife of the owner of the Seattle Seahawks. She spent thousands on vases, platters, lamps, jars and bowls and promoted Rick's work in high-end galleries. IT IS WITH mixed emotion that I announce Rick is parting with his collection at a show and sale this weekend (details below). I will never part with my collection, acquired during many art shows together. My pay each show was a work of art so my collection features Rick's evolution. I have collected my brother's hand painted porcelain for decades. These lovely jars hold teas, coffee and sugar for hummingbird nectar. When I interviewed New York Times art critic John Canaday, I invited him to our home to show him Rick's pottery. "It has elegance, and enduring beauty," he said with admiration. "It is still wet with the feel of the brush." FOR YEARS, Rick's pottery was shown in galleries from San Francisco to Taos, Denver, Whitefish and Red Lodge, and in Billings at Toucan Gallery. After suffering "burnout" from the rigors of production and shows, Rick's career segued from pottery to nature photography and writing, a move to Montana, return to university and a degree in counseling. He worked for years at Passages in Billings, helping troubled women return to society and productive life. He retired from Passages but developed another arts career, collaborating with his partner Jane on calendars, mugs, photographs and journals. Despite dealing with Parkinson's, he remains an accomplished artist and writer, but no longer creates porcelain art. He jogs daily, and friends from our hometown of Columbus, Montana, remember his excellence as an athlete and devoted runner. Rick Cosgriffe with his Montana photos. They will be available this weekend, along with his porcelain MY BROTHER'S art is informed by a lifelong interest in travel, in art of many cultures and a particular interest in sumi painting. In reflecting on his work with porcelain -- known for both its delicacy and durability -- Rick pays homage to porcelain artists of centuries past. "Japanese, Chinese and Korean artists worked with classic celadon glazes." Porcelain, he adds, lends itself to graceful glazing "and is an excellent canvas for brush painting." Potters know how difficult it is to paint on curved surfaces rather than a flat canvas. Thus Rick's work reflects both talent and patience. It's been my pleasure to be part of my brother's artful world for many years. I encourage admirers and collectors not to miss this weekend's show. I'll be the one with the hanky. Art show and sale details: Buyers can browse and collect a piece of Cosgriffe's unique, one-of-a-kind porcelain artwork during a three-day show this weekend at 1311 Hardrock Drive, Billings, Montana, 59105. His elegant work will be displayed on his back patio, during a neighborhood sale. Times are Friday, Sept. 6, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday, Sept. 7, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, Sept. 8, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The complex problem of over-tourism is the focus of our next column. We experienced protestors and understand. UP NEXT: Tourists go home! We felt the frustration and anger of locals on a recent return to Europe. There we were -- enjoying ourselves, spending money, taking in familiar and new sights. But not all the locals want us in southern Europe. We understand their feelings, because tourism has done damage, along with providing income for many. This "Tourist Go Home" mentality was on both signs and on the lips of protestors during this most recent trip to Europe. It's a complicated issue. Over-tourism is putting pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and housing at the expense of residents. We delve into the problem in the next piece. Meanwhile, remember to enjoy, live and learn, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com












