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At Palm Springs Tram, the Coachella Valley spreads out in the far distance, looking from the mountain-top vista. Far below is the city of Palm Springs The tram is a great escape when temperatures in Palm Springs can climb to 120 degrees Fahrenheit.  It's 35-40 degrees cooler at this lovely vista.   TRAM RIDE YIELDS GORGEOUS VIEWING PLEASURES HIGH ABOVE PALM SPRINGS Layers are appropriate for Bruce Keller & Christene "Cookie"Meyers in late spring. By early May, the park is warmingand you won't need more than a sweater. But you willexperience a temperature change of 35-40 degrees fromPalm Springs below the tram at 2,400 feet abovesea level. You'll climb to over 8,000 feet at the top.    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HIGH ABOVE the heat of the desert floor,  magical mountains await with cooling breezes. The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway whisks viewers on a breathtaking ride to almost 9,000 feet above sea level.  There, a world of hiking trails, wildflowers, birds, squirrels and sometimes snow awaits. WHEN IT COMES  to heights, I'm a scaredy cat.  But I felt comfortable, even with the gentle pre-announced "bumps" as the tram passes various stations.  I truly enjoy the rotating tram with wonderful views for everyone.  No bad seats and we were totally safe. Its workings are carefully inspected  ABOVE: click on the triangle for our video. and the operation is closed for several weeks each year for maintenance and thorough inspection.  It purrs like a kitten and is tended with meticulous care.   Snow at the top of the ride near the boarding area, in late February. THE TRAM is a major California tourist attraction, drawing many to stay a day or two in Palm Springs. The area attracts golfers, sun seekers, bird watchers, nature lovers and those just wanting to relax or escape colder climes. As the largest rotating aerial tramway in the world, the tram opened with great fanfare in September 1963 whisking folks from the floor of the Coachella Valley to near the top of San Jacinto Peak. Constructing it in rugged Chino Canyon was an engineering marvel, with helicopters bringing in tons of building material and equipment. The tram was the dream of a young electrical engineer named Francis Crocker. IN 1935, while on a trip to Banning, California, with  newspaper publisher Carl Barkow, Crocker was nearly overcome by the heat. Mopping his brow in the sultry desert warmth, he gazed at the still snow-capped peak of Mount San Jacinto -- 10,834 feet elevation. He longed to “go up there where it’s nice and cool.” And so “Crocker’s Folly,” as it was soon dubbed by one newspaper woman, was born – a tramway up the sheer cliffs of Chino Canyon for stunning views of Mt. San Jacinto.   WE BOARDED the tram for our first ride many years ago. It's a  thrilling 10-minute transit over 2.5 miles and 6,000 feet in elevation. With snow still on the mountains, the tram offers a chance to play in snow at the top.  Palm Springs residents take their kids up with sleds and toys.   Climbing several thousand feet to the top are, from left: Bruce Keller, Sue & John Speight and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, excited at the view. AS WE SOARED above the desert wilderness to the breath-taking landscape of Mt. San Jacinto State Park. A few weeks ago, we enjoyed the stunning scenic vista, while families played in the snow. Then we hiked a well constructed trail from the Mountain Station. The rotating tram was introduced in the late 1990s, making it the largest one in the world. As the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway cars inch up the mountain, they slowly rotate for guests to take in a full panoramic view of the rugged canyon below. Once to the top, guests can take it all in from observation decks, check out the natural history museum and two historical documentary theaters. Outside, enjoy more than 50 miles of hiking trails for the true outdoor enthusiasts. Docents are on hand both inside and outside to answer questions. There's a pleasant cafe with grab-and-go snacks for a picnic lunch or early supper. Peaks Restaurant is more formal, with lovely views and a pleasant ambiance offering a more relaxing dining experience. We enjoyed the restaurant with our friends from England. If you're planning to hike on your own, there are five trail options to choose from. They range in length and difficulty. For those looking for a  leisurely nature stroll, our amiable docent recommended the “Long Valley Discovery Trail.” It's less than a mile and clearly marked for an easy loop. We saw many birds and found a clean restroom.  For more experienced hikers, the 11-mile  round trip  hike to the peak of Mt. San Jacinto takes braver hikers to the second highest point in the state.  My eagle-eye husband could see all the way to Catalina Island. Because it is such a spectacular feat of engineering, the tram was dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Be sure to spend time in the "photo hall" where you'll see pictures of the difficult construction and helicopters used for much of the building process. The tram had its inaugural ride in 1963 and in the late 1990s a modern face-lift introduced the rotating tram cars. Wildlife displays show the creatures in the mountains. Two theaters show interesting films. When planning your tram trip, we advise checking arrival and departure times carefully.  Many people enjoy an afternoon trip up and the evening trip down, beneath the stars with the lights of the city below.  The more formal restaurant is popular for celebrations and special events. And sunsets are spectacular at the top. Don't miss the last tram down, though.  Tickets range from $18 to $31, but if you plan more than a couple visits, the summer pass and annual pass are a bargain with substantial savings. We met several local hikers who love them and come up weekly during the hottest months.    For tickets or more information: pstramway.com UP NEXT : "Don't Cry for Me, Argentina." I'm listening to Patti LuPone sing that memorable song from the Tony winning Broadway musical, "Evita."  Next week, we visit a fascinating museum in Buenos Aires dedicated to the life, rise to fame and accomplishments of a young actress from the country who became a famous and beloved first lady. Eva Peron's Buenos Aires museum in her memory is our next feature. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

When Cookie first set eyes on this bridge -- one of several on King's Walkway, not far from Malaga  -- she nearly turned back..... ...but Cookie persisted and joined Bruce Keller and our amiable Viator guide Jose to scale the walkway and survive to climb again. We recommend the fun and safety of Viator's tour of this astonishing place. RECOVERING COWARD FINDS HER METTLE TESTED  HIGH ABOVE THE TREES IN SOUTHERN SPAIN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Relaxing on a lovely train ride from Malaga, enroute to the village of El Chorro, Cookie anticipates the climb. IT WAS NOT  going to frighten me. I could do it without shaking hands..... Thousands have climbed it through the years. Come on, Cookie, calm down.... When something frightens me, I try to approach it logically and overcome my fear. In the case of Spain's famed Caminito Del Rey, "King's Walkway," I considered this fact: it has been safely climbed for more than a year since it re-opened in 2015. I also considered why it closed after nearly a century:  five walkers plunged to their deaths between 1999 and 2000 when the eye-popping paths and bridges fell into disrepair. Cookie and Jose enter a cave leading to the start of the famous walkway.  Still, we would climb with a skilled guide. Jose, an anthropologist, historian and native Spaniard, is an accomplished climber and hiker. He had navigated the pathway dozens of times. Jose helps suit up smiling Cookie up with hard hat and hair net.      THE TRAIN RIDE through the lovely Spanish countryside took us in a few relaxing hours from beautiful Malaga, where we spent an enchanting week, to picturesque Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola, Marbella, Ronda, Ardales and El Chorro, where we met our guide for a half-hour drive to the climb. The narrow gorge is actually in El Chorro, near Ardales in the province of Málaga. We knew from research that we would wear hard hats and hair netting and that we must not have a fear of heights (I lied -- I suffer from vertigo.) My climbing partner and photographer, Bruce Keller, is unafraid.  He is a scuba diver, water skier, hiker, climber -- adept at navigating the unknown -- both literally and figuratively. Only on the train did he tell me that the climb was closed for 14 years, with a multi-million dollar "redo" and that many consider it "the world's scariest walkway." I FELT LIKE  a cowardly extra in an Indiana Jones film as we bent down to climb through a cave that would lead us to the entrance of Caminito del Rey. No turning back now... Grateful for strong reinforcement along much of the walkway, Cookie still found it reassuring to touch the stone walk to her right or hang on to her guide Jose. The walkway has held a mythic history  in Spain, since 1901 when construction began -- finishing in late 1905. Its original purpose was practical -- energy related -- not designed to provide entertainment or recreation.  The project was conceived to provide a means for workers to reach an important pair of hydroelectric power plants located at waterfalls along the route. It would also provide a way to transport supplies and equipment. A breathtaking view of the hillside is available -- if one can look down. ITS NAME CAME  about in 1921 when King Alfonso XIII braved the Caminito for the inauguration of a dam at the site. A decade later, Alfonso was forced into exile when the second Spanish Republic was declared in 1941. But the clever name stuck and Alfonso's great-grandson, the current King Felipe, cut the ribbon on the new improved Caminito when it opened March 28 of 2015. The king, son of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, posed for photos on the walkway.   So I would follow these royal footsteps. A pair of  Swiss walkers pauses.  The dam was built to provide water to Malaga's residents.  Climbers killed on the walkway are honored. Nearing the end of the walk, Cookie looks straight ahead -- not down. Keller is calm. AS WE THREE WALKED  -- I with one hand on the rock wall and the other on the steel bars much of the time --  Jose described the evolution of the walkway.  Before closing for the   "redo," it was a thrill for daredevils such as Jose and his college buddies. When he told me the reason for closing the walkway for 15 years, I nearly turned back.  (It's not a roundtrip -- there's one way in, one way out -- so this would have been inconvenient.) Five people fell to their deaths in 2001 -- three of them careless thrill-seekers forcing a redo of the three-plus kilometer trail and bridges. We did encounter one 60-something woman going against foot traffic, turning back only a fifth of the way in. "Demasiado para mi," she muttered, head shaking.  ("Too much for me.") Despite this unnerving meeting, we pressed on. "You'll be fine," Jose reassured, suggesting I hang on to him for strength. THE NEW  walkway is sturdy and industrial strength, a massive effort of aluminum and stainless steel attached to vertical walk face. Skilled mountain climbers were hired for the construction, swaying in the breezes more than 100-plus meters above land and water. The renovation weighed in at over 3 million Euros with the Andalusian government and city of Malaga footing the bill. They hoped for a major tourist attraction and that is materializing. The tourism bureau touts extra safety measures. This recovering coward was grateful for every one. And thankful for a tall glass of white wine after in the nearby tavern. You may book the walk for a full day, including lunch, with pick-ups and transfers, or just the walk. To book: www. smartholidaysandalusia .com ; www. viator. com UP NEXT: Malaga's magnificent Museuo Automovilistico is a wonderland of gorgeous autos and vintage finery, equally eye-catching. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us late Friday  when we post for each weekend.

We boarded Celebrity's Eclipse for an exciting 15-day cruise from Buenos Aires to the Antarctic. Here, we joined fellow cruisers to board our bus for a shore excursion and spectacular wildlife.  CELEBRITY'S FLEET SPANS THE WORLD, WITH CLASSY STATE OF THE ART VESSELS Celebrity ships are easily recognized by the trademark "X," here on the line's Edge. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Celebrity's shore excursions include a wide range of activity, including biking. "Cookie and Keller" enjoy a ride in Vietnam . THE GREEKS have long been good travelers. So it's no surprise that Celebrity Cruises owes its heritage to the Greece based Chandris Group, which launched the company in 1988-89. We're Celebrity fans, dating back to the year the line was founded by the Greece-based Chandris Group with its first ships, Mercury and Meridian. The respected Chandris organization established the cruise line's reputation as an up-market big-ship operator.  ONE CAN easily spot a Celebrity ship with the line's signature "X," displayed on the funnel. It's the Greek letter chi for "Chandris." If Chandris sounds familiar, you're old enough to remember Chandris Line, a Greek shipping company founded in 1960 by popular ship builder and developer Antonios Chandris. His began operating ocean liners between his native Greece, to Europe, Bermuda and Australia. Chandris initiated the "X" tradition on its funnels, paying homage to the first letter of  Chandris in Greek: Χανδρή. The chi was the logo for Chandris then for its successor,  Celebrity Cruises. Close-up communion with king penguins was a highlight of our recent  Celebrity Antarctic cruise from Argentina, a wondrous 15-day voyage.  CELEBRITY IS rightly  proud of its ships "bells and whistles' and modern venues, including state-of-the-art cabins, restaurants, bars and attractions geared towards R&R. Its Edge is touted as "revolutionary -- designed to raise the bar of cruising." It features a trend-setting outward facing design encouraging guests to feel connected to the sea. An expansive terrace pool deck provides spectacular views as the ship sails between ports.  Heading out to explore aboard Celebrity  for a thrilling wildlife adventure in Antarctica. The resort deck offers a beautifully tended rooftop garden with an urban “playscape,” unique to Celebrity. An  asymmetrical pool also faces the sea. Comfy seating encourages a picnic while watching a movie in the garden . Celebrity Cruises operates 15 vessels. We've cruised on 7 of those, including two trips on the line's dowager ship, Celebrity Millennium, which is nearly 24 years old and still a favorite. A highlight of our 155 cruises was a spectacular itinerary through Asia, with Bali's breathtaking landscapes and gorgeous sails into Hong Kong and Singapore. MILLENNIUM  also goes to India and South Korea and smaller ports in Malaysia. Cookie and Keller on Celebrity, enjoying the scenery in Halong Bay off the coast of Vietnam.    Celebrity doesn't rest on its laurels, coming out with a new ship every two years. It typically keeps vessels for around 20 to 30 years before retiring them. glass blowing classes and demonstrations. We were fans in the line's busy period between 2000 and 2002, when Celebrity launched four ships: Millennium, Infinity, Summit and Constellation -- all carefully chosen names carrying on the sentimental naming tradition of Chandris, who came up with Romantica for an early ship. Writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers gives a reading aboard Celebrity Millennium.  These larger, modern Celebrity ships carry 2,200-plus passengers -- still reasonable compared to today's largest ship, Icon of the Seas, with 7,600 passengers.  We like Celebrity's sizes and its all-glass elevator banks, lively art lectures, stunning onboard art collections, variety of inviting, relaxing areas and a focus on culinary experiences. THE LINE also initiated a series of programs and enhancements designed to improve onboard experience, including glass blowing among the  expanded adult enrichment program, afternoon tea and a spa cafe dinner option. This is Blu, open exclusively to passengers staying in AquaClass cabins. We've also sampled Celebrity's 98-passenger Celebrity Xpedition (a delightful 48 passengers) which gives a wonderful close-up view of the creatures and landscape of the Galapagos.  The ship, in fact, helped put Celebrity -- and Darwin's famous islands -- on the map. For Celebrity's 2024-25 itineraries, discounts and more:  celebritycruises.com School children across Montana learn to enjoy Shakespeare thanks to inventive direction and fine acting of Montana Shakespeare in the Schools. ON TAP:  In the next weeks, we romp with dolphins, try a tuk-tuk tour in Lisbon and join lucky kids enjoying Montana Shakespeare in the Schools. Fortunate students are enjoying a spirited offering of "A Midsummer Night's Dream" now until mid-December. Find out how your school can book a regional touring company.  There are many across the U.S. Then soon we head to   Gibraltar's famous bay which offers a view of two continents and splendid sea life.   Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie hamming it up with temp Maori tattoo SLICE OF MAORI LIFEREMAINS WITH TRAVELERSIN MEMORIES OF GENTLEPEOPLE, HOMEMADE GOODIESAND BEAUTIFUL CHILDREN Okains Bay encourages families to live there, providing cheap lodging in exchange for children learning the Maori language. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER We left historic Akaroa, founded in 1840 by the French, for a 50-mile plus drive.  We were met by a group of school children who welcomed us with song and dance.  Some of us tried temporary tattoos, and the Maori tongue greeting. THE MAORI  people we met during our New Zealand idyll were sensitive, welcoming, smart and funny.  We felt at home. "I'm hungry," our guide said on the return to our ship after a long day. When she commented again that she'd love a cookie, I pulled one from my satchel, an extra from morning tea. This young man was the student leader who welcomed us. "Yum.  That hits the spot," she said, setting her microphone on her lap to munch for a moment. OUR TIME with the Maori included the trip with Denise, to her family's village near Napier (previous blog), and a day at another, more remote Maori village, Okains Bay, whose nearest town is Akaroa. Here, the Maori people are cultivating non-Maori people to their town.  They offer cottages with modest rentals to families with children who agree to enroll their young in the village school there. With that proviso, the children learn the language, customs, history and music of the Maori, assuring the preservation of the culture. Early settlers lived fairly elaborately, even in remote New Zealand villages.  The Maori were world class fishermen as Okains Museum notes. AKAROA'S HARBOR is one of the prettiest in New Zealand, and attracts French visitors because of its preservation of the French language and its "French feel" in the bistros, shops and outdoor markets. Many signs are in French, and the food and wine are French. As we climbed a mountain past gorges and farm land, we left the coast behind.  Approaching the village, we saw signs of both bygone Colonial life and Maori culture. Okains Bay School preserves Maori culture. WE WERE greeted at the village by a young man and soon we heard songs from younger children. Adults offered homemade pastries, then we were ushered into the astonishing Okains Bay Maori and Colonial Museum, with its carved war canoes, tapestries and entire rooms preserved with trappings of the early settlers' lives. The history in this museum is known internationally -- with fine marine and fishing exhibits and world class bird life displays, beautifully documented. Dunedin's train station is the second most photographed building in the Southern Hemisphere (the first is the famed Sydney Opera House, featured in earlier blogs.) NEXT UP:   Look to our new blog, www.lilianslastdance .com for theater and book features, keying off the upcoming paperback publication of our novel "Lilian's Last Dance." www.whereiscookie.com continues its look at international travel and adventure, with a ride on New Zealand and Australia's classy trains and a visit to New Zealand's famous Dunedin Train Station. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us at www.whereiscookie.com

The Queen Mary has a long, proud history and was saved from the scrap heap by the city of Long Beach. The revelry aboard the Queen Mary includes vintage dress for special events. WORLD'S ONCE GRANDEST LINER LIVES A LIVELY LIFE IN LONG BEACH Keller and Cookie flank Commodore Hoard on Queen Mary. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ABOARD  the Queen Mary, there's always adventure.  If you want to schedule it, you can, on a series of entertaining tours which take in every aspect of the grand liner's history. Or you may just let adventure find you as you dress vintage, sip a cocktail and people-watch, dine with style, stroll the decks. I EVEN PLAYED  the piano on which my idol Cole Porter played during his beloved crossings. It is now the piano in Winston's, the most elegant of several eateries on board. There are tours for the history buffs, fun-seekers, ghost lovers, romantics, fans of the sea. Sir Winston's pays homage to a frequent Queen Mary guest. Manned by a crew of 500 domestic staff -- waiters, housekeepers, painters and engineers -- she has 346 hotel rooms and is truly a floating museum.  To recall her glory days, vintage faucets offering the option of salt water were retained.  In pre-air conditioned days, the '30s fans that now serve as decoration would have been essential. Of the Queen's crew who manned her last voyage in 1967, 200-plus survive; they visit the Queen Mary from time to time. MILLIONS  worldwide have walked her decks since she moved to Long Beach, California -- including presidents, prime ministers and dozens of movie stars. "It's always wonderful to have the crew come visit," says Commodore Everette Hoard. The ship is kept very "shipshape." Among notable visits in recent years, Cunard's Princess made a stop in Long Beach to say "hello" to the Queen Mary. In 2006 – Cunard's flagship, the Queen Mary 2, met her namesake, the original RMS Queen Mary. AND IN  2011, Queen Victoria visited her older sister, the Queen Mary, before heading back to Southampton via the Panama Canal. The QE2's longtime captain, Ron Warwick, sailed into Long Beach later in 2011 aboard Cunard's Queen Elizabeth.  "He got off there, to visit us," says Commodore Everette Hoard. Shops and boutiques, tours, restaurants, lounges, tea and exhibits await. And in March of 2013, a "royal rendezvous" occurred when Cunard's Queen Elizabeth visited Long Beach with a formal reception, fireworks and other grand hoopla.   At that fun occasion, 3,800 liner-loving revelers came on board the Queen Mary to celebrate. If you  want to celebrate on the Queen, you're welcome.  "Special events are our bread and butter," says Commodore Hoard.  He sees his job as mainly one of  public relations -- since the ship is not going anywhere. BUSTLING ABOUT  the ship, he schmoozes with visitors, history buffs and overnight guests, posing for photos and answering questions about the bridge, engine room or restaurants. An avid history buff, he knows more than almost anyone about Guests check in at the Queen Mary's lobby reception area. Cunard's rich seafaring history, the various Queens who transited the seas under Cunard's banner, the ship's construction and contents and even the 57 varieties of wood found within her. When one guest asked the difference between a liner and a cruise ship, the Commodore had a concise and immediate answer. "Liners are built with a reserve of speed," Hoard said.  "The Queen Mary, for instance, could go 28 l/2 knots.  Liners have a longer, sleeker hull.  And even a large cruise ship will navigate around bad weather," he says.  "Liners just go for it -- plow right through the weather." Old-fashioned portholes offer a modern  view of Long Beach from Queen Mary. Hoard also lectures on board other vessels, preferring to stick with Cunard, although he's been asked recently to lecture on other lines. Told that we loved bridge tours and visits to the captain's private quarters, Hoard didn't hesitate to take us to the bridge and into his quarters.  Among the famous who enjoyed cocktails there were presidents Ronald Reagan and George H.W. Bush along with "the Iron Lady," Margaret Thatcher, who shares pride in the Queen's heroic part in the Allies' winning of World War II. WINSTON CHURCHILL  had a favorite easy chair in the captain's private quarters and sipped many a cognac while enjoying Nearly 60 kinds of wood adorn the Queen Mary. several Queen Mary crossings with his wife, Clementine.  When Winston's was opened as the ship's top restaurant in the late 1970s. History buffs will love learning about the meeting of two stately queens in 1967.  Early in the morning of Sept. 25, when the retiring Queen Mary, making her final trans-Atlantic voyage in the Cunard Service, passed her sister ship – the original Queen Elizabeth. Between 1947 and 1967 the two majestic ocean liners crisscrossed the Atlantic Ocean dozens of times, but this time was special. As the two historic Queens closed in on each other, both captains stood at the bridge in attention while the mighty whistle of each ship pierced through the autumn air. Realizing they Long before GPS, these tools of navigation guided Queen Mary. were witnessing history and an end of an era, they stood and saluted. That cold September morning on the Atlantic Ocean would be the final time the two beloved ships would cross paths, before the Queen Mary was permanently docked in Long Beach where we had the good fortune to visit her! To make a reservation or book a tour or meal, go to www.queenmary.com Bob & Sue Hulbert join Cookie and Keller aboard the grand Queen Mary. COMING UP : Renting a car abroad can be daunting, but it can also offer joys, excitement and a unique, personalized way to see the country. A few tips can help you  navigate. Remember to explore, learn, live and check us out weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

HISTORIC MEETING AS QUEEN MARY WELCOMES HER 'NIECE,' QUEEN ELIZABETH Cunard's majestic Queen Elizabeth sailed into Long Beach Harbor and spent the day, next to the venerable Queen Mary. The Queen Mary has been retired from the seas since 1967 but still draws a million and one-half visitors annually. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT WAS A GLORIOUS  meeting!  Two queens -- one elderly, the other a fairly new kid on the royal block -- were side by side for a day in the harbor at Long Beach, California. It was a Cunard family reunion with a cast of thousands -- dignitaries and local ship lovers. The 80-year old Queen Mary -- stationed in Long Beach, Calif., greeted her much younger niece with fireworks, live music, speeches, champagne and tours of both queens. THE JOYFUL  occasion marked the opening of an extraordinary ship's model museum aboard Queen Mary, and the launch of an ambitious museum project to be housed in Queen Mary's former engine rooms and adjacent spaces. Dignitaries at the ribbon cutting of Queen Mary's Ship Model Gallery included Richard Meadows, left, CTC and Cunard president, and Bernadette Grenne, Britain's deputy consul general to Los Angeles. Commodore Everette Hoard of the Queen Mary, is far right. A major museum is planned. QUEEN MARY , built in 1935 and considered the grandest ocean liner ever designed at her 1936 launch, has a noble history and is still much loved. She's been anchored in Long Beach since 1967 when she retired from the seas and Long Beach bought her. Every decade or so, another Cunard vessel does a "sail by," giving a "floating salute" while passing, but not actually pulling into shore. This time -- a first in history -- a modern Cunard liner docked next to the Queen Mary and spent the day. QUEEN ELIZABETH,  launched in 2010 ,  paid her respects while on a world tour, allowing her passengers to disembark and tour Queen Mary.  In turn, a few lucky writers and photographers staying in Queen Mary's hotel -- were invited to tour Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth sailed out of Long Beach Harbor with a glorious fireworks display, bagpipe serenade, a jazz band, cocktails and speeches. Queen Mary Commodore Hoard toasted her and his vessel with "Long Live the Queens." The royal visit honored the Queen Mary's remarkable service as a World War II troopship, a makeover which endeared her to the western world and helped the Allies win the war. Many of England's best known personalities -- from Sir Winston Churchill to Noel Coward --  traveled on Queen Mary, along with American luminaries -- Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Fred Astaire, Loretta Young and many other celebrities. IN MODERN  times, Cunard's Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth sail the seas under the Cunard banner continuing the "grand voyage" tradition, exploring islands, exotic countries and world capitals, reminding travelers old and young of the grand days of ocean liner luxury and crossings that offered the best of everything. Commodore Everette Hoard greeted Cookie, Keller and  thousands of others to celebrate Cunard's 175th year and Queen Mary's impressive Model Gallery with a spectacular Queen Mary model crafted from a single mahogany log. When two "queens" meet on the water, it's always a grand occasion, especially when they'll both be docked. Long Beach rolled out the red carpet and the Queen Mary offered free admission, an offer thousands of locals took advantage of. Click the link below to READ WHAT PEOPLE AS SAYING ABOUT 'LILIAN'S LAST DANCE ' SO WE AROSE   at 4:30 a.m. -- in complete dark and thick fog -- to bundle up, grab coffees and head for the deck to listen for Queen Elizabeth's horn. Queen Mary's gregarious commodore, Everette Hoard, was up at 2 a.m. to join the pilot boat in welcoming the Queen Elizabeth into the harbor.  He was the true star of the day-long show, greeting Queen Elizabeth brass and welcoming her world-cruise guests aboard "his" Queen Mary.  In turn, the Queen Elizabeth's captain came aboard to admire the model gallery and welcomed a few to tour the visiting vessel. Hoard officiated at an elaborate sail-out salute to Queen Elizabeth, from a vantage point on his beloved Queen Mary. A grand stairway on the Queen Elizabeth features an elaborate wood marquetry panel. UP NEXT : Come aboard with us for an afternoon on the renowned Queen Elizabeth.  The Cunard ship offers beautiful woodwork, elegant tapestries, traditional English tea, an inviting pool, and an array of stylish salons, dining rooms and a grand theater space.  All the detail makes this Cunard liner world famous. Look for travel, cruising, hotel and adventure stories as we explore the world Wednesdays at www.whereiscookie. For theater, movies and literature features, www.lilianslastdance   updates you on the arts as well as tours and readings for our new novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," soon out on paperback. Remember to explore, learn and live! Carpe diem! That's the word.

The Bishop Museum's several buildings range from historic to contemporary and house millions of priceless items. It represents the world's largest collection of Hawaiian and Pacific cultural artifacts and natural history specimens. Its many collections contribute to global research. MUSEUM SHINES ARTFUL SPOTLIGHT ON HISTORY OF SOUTH PACIFICIN STATELY HONOLULU COMPLEX STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE BISHOP Museum in Honolulu is a true treasure trove. You'll go down the rabbit hole of Pacific Island discovery when you visit. Plan to spend a day to truly savor and appreciate its marvelous, eye-popping contents. SHOWCASING AN  extensive collection of Hawaiian objects and royal family heirlooms owned by a princess, the museum includes millions of objects, documents and photographs about Hawai'i and other Pacific island cultures. Above right, Tapestries, feathers and  elaborate wall hangings are displayed artfully throughout the museum. Above, one of many intriguing sculptures. The Bishop Museum's extensive nature related exhibits include these striking mobiles of a whales, sharks and more. "The Bishop," as it is known worldwide, was founded in 1889 by Charles R. Bishop, the American husband of Hawaiian Princess Bernice Pauahi, who died in 1884. Because she was the last direct descendant of King Kamehameha, Bishop wanted to honor her legacy as well as celebrating Hawaii's cultural richness. Imagine 25 million items -- it's mind boggling. Each piece tells a story of the Pacific Islands rich and diverse history and culture. THE MUSEUM has gained an international reputation for its breadth and excellence. As the state's largest museum, it is the Pacific region's premier natural and cultural history institution. It is recognized worldwide for its cultural collections, research projects, consulting services and public educational programs. Feathers are part of the culture. Here, Keller admires a creation made of thousands of them, carefully plucked so the birds were not injured, but released to grow more. Bishop and his wife, Pauahi. The museum showcases her extensive collection acquired in her royal life. WE SPENT an enlightening afternoon enjoying the exhibits -- from photographs of famous surfers to hands-on drums, to weavings, tapestries, pottery, mobiles, sculpture, murals, and intriguing diagrams.  In 1961 a planetarium and an observatory were added to emphasize the role of astronomy in the cultural history of Pacific Island peoples.   BISHOP CREATED the  museum as an enduring memorial to his beloved wife. Pauahi was a well known philanthropist and member of Hawaii's ali'i, or royalty.  She inherited many irreplaceable heirlooms from her royal family including her prestigious parents and her cousin Ruth Keʻelikōlani. She died at age 52, living only from 1831to 1884. But she was a shrewd businesswoman. At her death, her estate was the largest private landownership in the Hawaiian Islands, comprising an astonishing nine per cent of Hawaii's total area. The revenues from these lands are used to operate the Kamehameha Schools, established in 1887 according to Pauahi's will. Her marriage to Bishop was one of like minded philanthropists who appreciated and shared their wealth. The Hawaiian Hall at the Bishop Museum contains the world's largest collection of Polynesian artifacts. Millions of pieces of historic art and memorabilia are housed within the museum complex, a world class operation.  WE ADMIRED  many of their treasures, including stone and bone implements and containers, gorgeous feather lei and capes and stunning kihili, those distinctive long poles decorated on one end with a cluster of thousands of feather plumes.  These, and many of the other museum items, were used as ceremonial emblems by the native Hawaiian people. Bishop's mission was to honor both his wife's legacy and celebrate the rich culture of South Pacific. Well done. As our Hawaiian friends say: hele mai e ao, or "come in and learn."   https://www.bishopmuseum.org/   A spirited cast gives energy and pizzazz to "Xanadu" underway at San Diego Musical Theatre. Another successful run begins! BEST ON THE BOARDS:    underway at San Diego Musical Theatre, is a rousing new musical, "Xanadu," based on the 1980s film but much more fun. The theater, at 4650 Mercury St., San Diego, is a dream came true for Erin and Gary Lewis who launched it and so far have produced 350 productions. Xanadu runs through June 4, followed by Tony winning "Urinetown" in late July, "The Addams Family" opening Sept. 29 and "Forever Plaid" for the holidays. "Xanadu" is getting raves for its feel good energy, its energetic roller skate numbers, fabulous singing, snappy choreography and endearing characters with good times guaranteed. Check out upcoming musical theater treats, package deals, group discounts and more at sdmt.org 858 560-5740.  . The Museum of Neew Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa offers a visual feast of  treasures, including art, beautiful user-friendly exhibits and animal studies . UP NEXT: While we're in a museum mood, we visit one of the world's finest. The centerpiece of Wellington is the remarkable Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa which offers a cultural feast and is the focal complex in the city's unusual and popular "free museum" system. Te Papa Museum is one of many no-admission museums in Wellington, and is a much loved, user friendly place often visited by locals, school groups and by thousands of grateful visitors from all over the world. Te Papa means "container of treasures" and the museum lives up to its name. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

LANGHAM HOTEL DOWN UNDER PERSONIFIES EXCELLENCE, UNDERSTATEMENT, LOCATION View at dusk from our Langham bedroom yields the splendid Yarra River, train station, cathedral and Federation Square. Stately St. Paul's Cathedral and lively Federation Square make a fascinating, well integrated pair in Melbourne.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU MIGHT  not remember that you asked your waiter for a cup of mint tea, to point you calmly toward dream land before you hit the sack. Perhaps you don't recall that you put a sprinkle of cinnamon on your morning cappuccino. Beautiful teas and sweets are part of the presentation at Melbourne's legendary Langham Hotel. But a good waiter watches, remembers! If you enjoy your white wine with a single ice cube, you'll get that! If you like your slippers by the bed, or nightie on the pillow, the housekeeper will make it happen.  The staff in a fine hotel knows these things and offers service with gracious ease. Superb service comes with training, practice and cultivation of "people skills." The Langham folks like what they do.  THE LANGHAM personnel of Melbourne, Australia, knew and remembered our names, greeted us with sincerity and smiles, and went beyond the call to make our stay a highlight of a seven-week trip. Federation Square, affectionately known as "The Fed," is a lively, dramatic centerpiece of Melbourne life, and a fascinating place to spend time. Our memorable visit to the much heralded Langham proved that splendid service is alive and flourishing Down Under. The Melbourne landmark is a shining star in a distinguished international hotel group, ranked a top hotel worldwide.  It distinguishes itself from the moment one enters the lobby. We enjoyed a refreshing cocktail as we completed registration then were shown to our beautifully appointed room and champagne. We toasted vistas inside and out. MELBOURNE'S  Yarra River and the impressive Melbourne skyline were bathed in a coral and blue sunset from the Langham's prime location. We loved being A lovely Langham bedroom -- with fine  art, plants and a river view.  a stone's throw from the city's cutting edge art scene, and its beautiful Federation Square. "The Fed" is a progressive mixed- >>>JUMP TO LILIAN'S LAST DANCE click here<<< use development on three "prime space" hectares, with two well loved public spaces and a huge screen for broadcasting sports and cultural events. We enjoyed a boys' choir The Langham, with its distinctive golden "L" symbol, awash in evening lights. concert, broadcast from the nearby arts center. Tourists and locals alike relaxed on comfy lawn chairs as the emcee asked, "Can you hear us there at The Fed?" (Cheers, bravos, applause.) Sweet treats -- the Langham club lounge offers breakfast fruits, afternoon pastries. DURING OUR  five "Langham Camelot days," as we dubbed our stay, we watched life unfold at Federation Square, took several short cruises on the Yarra and strolled Flinders Street, Swanston Street and St. Kilda Road, all well known arteries in Melbourne's central business district. A 1997 architectural competition resulted in construction of "Fed Square," now known throughout the southern hemisphere for its grace, boldness and multitude of uses -- shops, bars, restaurants, meeting place, concert hall. The iconic Flinders Street Station, opened in 1909, with its golden facade and arched entrance, is a work of art.  Bold, modern "Fed" Square, originally controversial, now stands proudly across from St. Paul's Cathedral: Square and church happy, integrated. WHAT A TREAT  to return to the Langham, with its lovely lights and welcoming "L" -- plus vintage pink auto out front, emphasizing the Langham's penchant for pastels. The hotel is a sanctuary nestled on Melbourne's stylish Southbank Promenade. From dining at Melba -- named after the famed Melbourne-born opera diva -- to cocktails at Aria Lounge, the Langham oozes artful style.  We didn't sample the fitness center, nor Chuan Spa. But friends from Germany and Japan reported the hotel's holistic wellness sanctuary's massage and facials use traditional Chinese medicine principles. We did try the Langham's 15-meter indoor pool -- when we weren't frolicking lively Melbourne's streets or luxuriating in our river-view room! MORE COMING: Train travel in Australia and New Zealand is an art. We continue the whereiscookie.com travel and cruise tradition each Wednesday. Look for the arts and literature on weekends at   www.lilianslastdance.com .  Remember to explore, learn and live!

Elegance and style greet the eye at every turn, and antiques meet the latest in technology, at Barcelona's Claris Hotel. Here's the spectacular view from the elevator as one whisks to one's room above an artful interior courtyard. Below, right, Antoni Gaudi's famed Casa Battlo is within easy walking distance from the Claris. BARCELONA BEAUTY: CLARIS HOTEL GREETS THE GUEST WITH MUSEUM CLASS SURROUNDINGS, SUPERB SERVICE, LOCATION  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ELEGANCE WITH EASE.  That seemingly simple recipe for success is what puts Barcelona's lovely Claris Hotel in a league of its own. The Claris is one of four uniquely appointed, art driven properties owned by Derby Hotels, a small and superbly run group of hotels in Barcelona, Madrid, Paris and London. Each hotel contains a fortune in art, not surprisingly, for the owner is an art scholar, owner of one of Europe's most exclusive private art collections. WE DISCOVERED these elegant hotels through fellow museum buffs, also travel writers. Their blend of old-world service, antiques, artwork, Catalan spirit and contemporary amenities is to be savored. Beautifully displayed and carefully lit sculpture catch the eye at every turn at Claris.  The source of our enthusiasm is a man named Jordi Clos.  As chairman and founder of Derby Hotels Collection, he displays an eye for beauty and class, sharing it with the hotels' fortunate clientele. The savvy Catalan businessman and his son are experts at knowing what makes a hotel unique.  First, give the well traveled visitor something special. Cultivate an atmosphere of personalized service. Make every guest feel welcome.   Create an aura that says "unique." The Claris does all this and more. WE WERE offered cava or fresh-squeezed juice as we waited briefly for our room, a treat because we'd arrived several hours before check-in, following a Greek Isles cruise.  (A lesser hotel would have stored our bags and asked us to return later. Instead, we had our room in minutes.)   Hotelier Clos is a renowned Egyptologist, collector and sponsor of art.  Jordi Clos is a well known aficionado who shares his  personal collection with clients in four stunning properties. So for our week-long Claris stay, we were surrounded by world-class sculpture and paintings in the restaurants and public areas.  Retreating to our room, we relaxed amid gorgeous tapestry, antique mirrors, pre-Columbian sculpture and a headboard above the bed in Elegance, artwork and superb service greet the Claris guest.  the shape of a crown.  Perfect for this Leo -- fit for a queen. We marveled at the designers' sense of style, color and fabric, the weaving of a sense of beauty.  WE'D BEEN TO  Barcelona many times, but wanted to revisit the famed Gaudi buildings and his Sagrada Familia, and we enjoyed strolling the hotel's distinctive neighborhood, the famed L'Eixample District. -- Breakfast pastry bar at the Claris: croissants, rich grain breads made that morning, beautiful sweets, even a gluten-free section. Sunset atop the Claris is a time for unwinding, enjoying a cocktail, admiring stately boulevards and busy life below. Clos also chairs the Clos Archaeological Foundation, which owns the Egyptian Museum of Barcelona, down the street from the Claris. This  collection -- open to the public -- exhibits the family's devotion to Egypt's culture.  (Clos has funded archaeological digs for a quarter century.)  EACH OF the four Clos properties is well located.  In Barcelona, the Claris is the grand dame of the city's famed L'Eixample district, with its celebrated dining scene, high-end boutiques and diverse nightlife.  Our suite featured a beautiful tapestry, sculpture, antiques and modern amenities: flat-screen TV and espresso maker. The Clos passion for art and culture  inspired The Claris breakfast buffet befits the hotel's sense of style and variety. Above, Jimmy helps Keller plan. his unique collection of hotels,  exhibiting  classical  artistic taste. Each hotel -- like the city it inhabits -- has its own personality.  L'Eixample's Modernista architecture complements the Claris, blending the stately and modern and near  the famed Pedrera and Casa Battlo. We pledged to return as we said a reluctant goodbye to Jimmy and Alvin in the breakfast restaurant. We'd miss the art, roses, Mediterranean cuisine, glorious spa, impeccable service -- the Claris class. At Mas La Boella, a beautiful sense of serenity envelopes the guest, in a retreat of olive trees, gardens and tranquility. UP NEXT:  While we're in Spain, come discover another treasured property, tucked away in the hills of Tarragona, southwest of Barcelona.  Mas La Boella is a small, distinguished property built around an olive plantation and  still working olive packaging plant. We admired beautifully integrated antiques, dined amid the trees and gardens and learned a lot about olive oil, as you will, too. Meanwhile, enjoy learn and live and visit us Fridays when we post for each weekend, a fresh slant on nature, the arts, family and travel.

One of San Diego's most versatile actors, Rosina Reynolds, plays a neuroscientist who has created a non-biological being. Talented actor Nick Cagle plays the creation "born" over the course of the play. The production is excellent in all aspects. 'UNCANNY VALLEY' POSES THOUGHTFUL QUESTIONS ABOUT ROBOT TECHNOLOGY AND ITS PHILOSOPHICAL IMPLICATIONS The Lyceum is the attractive down town home of San Diego Repertory Theatre. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  and SD Rep Marketing: Scatena Daniels/Daren Scott PUSHING THE ENVELOPE  yet again -- as we've come to expect -- San Diego Repertory Theatre has mounted a provocative, "must see," thinking person's gem. "Uncanny Valley" offers riches on many levels -- in language, ideas, acting, staging and theatricality. Actor Nick Cagle plays the role of Julian, transformed in the course of "Uncanny Valley," San Diego Repertory Theatre's world premiere. It's a clever, even profound, play about possibilities and the "what ifs" of technology -- as in, "What if in a few short decades, it could be possible to manufacture a human looking robot who actually seemed to have feelings -- regret, anger, compassion and much of the baggage that goes with the human condition. A creation who stares back at its creator. THE BRILLIANT  two-person play is directed by Jessica Bird and written by Thomas Gibbons. It's in one long 92-minute act with no intermission, which adds to the intensity as the plot builds and the two characters come to their final meeting, conflict and resolution. San Diego Repertory Theatre presents "Uncanny Valley" through May 10. It's a thinking man's drama, rich in language and the possibilities of technology.  THE EVENING  we saw the production -- on a Wednesday -- the audience was quietly fascinated as the neuroscientist named Claire begins the process of studying and developing her latest "invention."  In a sense,  he is her child -- and in a smart side-plot, we learn that her actual biological offspring has not spoken to her or her husband for many years. 'Lilian's Last Dance' book tour gears up for summer, click here (Physician, heal thyself.) CLAIRE'S FAMILY'S  dysfunction is paralleled with the evolution of Julian, the non-biological being who, it evolves, is the product of a billionaire's vanity and desire to live forever. Many questions are posed by the playwright, and in a nuanced performance, the always shining  Reynolds delivers a complex character, shaped by her professional drive and her personal anguish. A toast to another brilliant Rep show. Cagle brings a subtle finesse to his character, and the two work together like perfectly matched bookends on an artful set. Don't miss this wonderful production -- and prepare yourself for another ambitious, thought provoking season as the Rep moves into its 40th season under the expert guidance of founder Sam Woodhouse. Go to www.sdrep.org  -- and prepare to be fascinated. Then lift a glass to San Diego Rep. CATCH US WEDNESDAYS AND WEEKENDS  @ www.whereiscookie.com  and enjoy, live and learn!

TOUCHING PLAY WITH FINE ACTING, A COMIC EDGE AND A TOE-TAPPING TRIO TO SET THE MOOD Manny Fernandes and Carla Harting square off and eventually admit their attraction in a winning play at San Diego Rep. From left, Richard Tibbets, Jim Mooney and Alicia Previn set the tone for "Outside Mullingar," a lyrical tale of family, loyalty, pride and love.  The pastoral pull of Ireland's countryside comes inside with "Outside Mullingar," San Diego Rep's first-rate production.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy San Diego Rep  YOU SUSPECT  you're in for a treat from the moment you enter the Lyceum Theatre in downtown San Diego's Horton Plaza. A spirited trio cuts loose with an on-stage jig, and soon the audience is tapping its toes to jaunty violin, guitar and flute tunes. Only the Irish (or Irish at heart) can convey the joyous melancholy of Celtic music. Alicia Previn's lively fiddle and winning smile show she's having fun and set the mood for "Outside Mullingar," with Richard Tibbits on flute and Jim Mooney on guitar. The audience sings along with “Wild Rover” before the action begins, so we're involved from the start. PLAYWRIGHT  Patrick Shanley  knows small town Ireland -- he's born and bred there, and understands the petty and large-hearted nature of country folk.  He nails the Irish gift for candor, through self-deprecation, humor and snap judgment. Through Shanley's fine ear for the cadence of Irish speech, the engaging story unfolds. The Lyceum in Horton Plaza is home to San Diego Repertory Theatre. 'Outside Mullingar' plays my native Montana, too! WITH HALF  of my lineage tracing to the Emerald Isle, I was mesmerized. I've hiked the countryside near Mullingar where we've photographed its gentle hills and grazing critters. These characters are as real as the pastoral landscape -- viewed over a cuppa, admiring a stone fence. A rustic farmhouse kitchen designed by Giulio Perrone brings the rising damp right in -- with stone and hide and tree trunks incorporated into the furniture and lovely nature imagery projected between scenes. The banter between real-life husband and wife team Mike Genovese and Ellen Crawford  is a treat to listen to. The two play aging farm neighbors.  TWO LONELY  offspring -- each caring for an elderly parent on adjacent farms not far from Dublin -- are sparring, as they've done since childhood. Grace Delaney’s adept dialect coaching pays off as four fine actors banter, judge and show Will they find true love? Manny Fernandes, Carla Harting. their stuff. We meet a cranky old farmer Tony Reilly (Mike Genovese) who announces to his son Anthony (Manny Fernandes) that he will not be leaving him the farm. In the old man's eyes, Tony is not a true Reilly -- resembling too much his mother's clan and temperament. Sure he’s worked the land his entire life, but he doesn’t “love it” like his father. MOTHER AND  daughter Aolfe and Rosemary Muldoon (Ellen Crawford and Carla Harting) show up, and join the men in generational kvetching, neighborly barbs and unsolicited criticism. The "children," 40-something Anthony and Rosemary, have known one another all their lives. Neither has married. We're cheering them on, despite a complex history, for they obviously have a fondness for one another. ONCE THE  parents pass, we reach the romance part, with Shanley taking his sweet Irish time. The story unfolds leisurely -- like time in a pub on a rainy night. Lacing the story with wry wit and sarcastic humor for which my people are known, Shanley brings a rural comedy-drama to our doorstep with universal themes: loneliness, pride,  forgiveness and love. Surely Shanley, of the riveting Pulitzer Prize winning "Doubt," and wonderful film, "Moonstruck," would approve of Todd Salovey's deft direction. All four principles are terrific, prompting tearful sighs and bursts of laughter.   TREAT YOURSELF, and your 10 best friends, your mum, da, sibling or beau. It's held over through Feb. 21 at San Diego Rep. And if you're near Billings, Montana, my "hometown playhouse," Billings Studio Theatre, has "Outside Mullingar" on tap through Feb. 13. www.sandiegorep.org www.billingsstudiotheatre.com/ Catalina Island's famed Casino is a marvel to behold -- up next here! UP NEXT:  The famed Catalina Casino on the island of Santa Catalina, is not a casino as we've come to know it, but a gathering place, as per the original definition. With a fantastic organ concert, to boot. Come with us to this historic, one-of-a-kind theater and museum, long a party place, concert and celebration venue on California's only island paradise, Santa Catalina.  The Wrigley fortune built it more than 90 years ago and it is beloved by natives and tourists. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends and as the spirit moves: www.whereiscookie.com

A flurry of birds is caught in motion at a feeder at High Chaparral on the West Fork of the Stillwater River in Montana .       Story by Christene Meyers      Photos by Bruce Keller       AS LONG  as I can recall, birds have flitted around me, delighting and entrancing. In the mountains of Montana, the countryside of Tuscany, hiking trails in Ireland and Scotland, desert treks in Arizona, rain forests in Costa Rica, Peru and Brazil, I've always stopped to look, admire and appreciate them.      I don't pretend to be a specialist, or as knowledgeable as many of my cousins -- particularly Betty, who is internationally known for her birding accomplishments and knowledge.      But I enjoy. I savor. I am grateful that these creatures with an ancient past still visit our modern world. The Cosgriffe clan has a special connection to the chickadee, here painted by Misha Minesinger.     BIRDS ARE as much a  part of my life as the dogs, flowers and family who befriend me and buoy my spirits. They are a grounding, steady presence in my life.      Birds can take our breath away with their extraordinary beauty, their nesting instincts, their eating habits, parenting skills and their intricate "homes." I've admired bird condos in the cactus on the Arizona desert, and birdie single-residence dwellings in the hills of Ohio, the California and Oregon coasts and my native Montana woods.   This hummingbird's wings can be seen in the blur of motion as he readies to take a drink of syrup.        This woodpecker finds tiny bits of food in a telephone pole or tree trunk in the Montana countryside.   I've watched the faithful chickadee take a single sunflower seed in a Big Sky snowstorm and patiently crack it on a branch, munch, then daintily take another.  The chickadee was my mother Ellen's favorite bird and my sister Misha made me a gorgeous painting of this  beautiful bird.  His black and white uniform blends in snow or trees, and is his constant formal dress.     I've watched the sparrows and finches converge, a dozen on a single feeder, batting their wings for balance, to keep their place at the food trough. I've been visited three years running by the same stellar's jay, who last spring took a snack of nuts from my hand.     I'VE BEEN  thrilled to observe migrating grosbeaks and orioles, have admired nuthatches and towhees. I like to think that the hummingbirds I'm watching now in La Jolla will follow me north to the Rockies when I go to Montana to spend summertime.     In Phoenix, the cactus wrens and flickers vied for space in the saguaro out my back door.  And when a group of African parakeets descended -- in green and pink glory -- I photographed them so cousin Betty could help me identify them.  She surmised, after some enthusiastic detective work, that they were descendants of escaped "pet" birds who tripped their cages to breed into the hundreds in the Phoenix area and parts of southern California. Tropical birds fascinate, like this parrot in the Canary Islands.  My grandpa Gus had a friend named Tom who loved his pet  parrot.  He claimed Lucy was nearly 80.  The two old pals taught her to say, "Where you going, you sonofabitch?" to customers at granddad's lumber yard.      Here in San Diego, we see pelicans, egrets, herons, seagulls and hawks daily.   I recognize delicate yellow and black canaries and the same red house finches that I see in Montana.       I'VE COUNTED  four varieties of hummers here in California, one more than I've logged in Montana.    On the Amazon, I've been surrounded by a cloud of blue and yellow macaws. And I've been lulled to sleep by the sweet "who-who," of the barn owl who hangs out at High Chaparral.    A trio of pelicans takes sun and does some grooming not far from us in the Children's Pool in La Jolla, California.       I'm far from a bird nerd -- I don't have expensive binoculars or designer bird-watching togs.  But I keep my eyes wide open for my feathered friends, including the much maligned crows, who can tell individual humans apart.  And right up there with the chickadee -- in the Cookie pecking order, pardon the pun -- is the magpie.  I see them daily on my way to exercise in Montana.  I respect these clever, persistent birds, for their endurance.  Are they the coyotes of the bird world?     FINALLY, t he turkeys.  They come tentatively into my Montana yard, three, then four, then eleven, gaining courage in numbers as they sweep in to feast on the spills from the bird feeders. They cover the territory, checking out the lawn for  fallen bits of barbecue, sandwich, granola or the treasure of a discarded apple core.      Both of my grans loved birds and I thank Olive and Annie for turning me, my siblings and many cousins, into lifelong aficionados. A stately egret eyes his photographer, Bruce Keller, in the waters of San Diego Bay.      One spring morning back in the 1950s, Gran Olive rescued a fledgling robin, fallen from his precarious perch about the same time her large tabby cat, Taffy, rounded the corner.  It was a race for the bird and Gran won.  We tried to set him back on the branch, hoping his mother would return.  But as night fell, the bird grew quiet and seemed to be giving up. So we brought him inside, made him a bed of fine leaves and grass, and put two lit flashlights on either end to keep warmth in the shoe box.  For nearly two weeks, we kept him alive and watched him grow, nourished by tiny pieces of worm delivered to his mouth with tweezers, drops of milk and water, ants and a couple flies.       Saturday morning, the bird's second weekend with us, I was allowed to carry the box outside for his release.  We had moved it closer to the sun and door each day, in preparation for the happy exodus. He was moving about, flapping his wings.        GRAN PLACED him in my hands.  We both stroked him gently with our pinky fingers. "Be well, little bird," gran whispered. "Fly high, stay safe." She nodded for me to lift my hands up.  The robin looked at us, took a large breath and flew off -- I felt his tiny wings meet the air for a moment. Then he disappeared into the trees and life on his own! I'm hoping his descendants are keeping an eye on me today.  Let's let Keller's magnificent photos round out my tale of appreciation. The Sistine Chapel and the Vatican will be crowded with worshippers soon. COMING SATURDAY : Easter approaches, with all eyes on the Vatican and the Pope, so we take a look at the cathedrals, ports, countryside and other charms of Italy, a country we both love.  Please share this website with like-minded folks:  whereiscookie.com Remember to enjoy , learn and live and   watch for a new post each Friday as we deliver our spin on travel, the arts, family and nature.