Hotel with music lessons: Christene Meyers, aka Cookie, and Bruce Keller, known by his surname, signed up for ukulele lessons at Hilton Hawaiian Village on Waikiki Beach. The pair are partners in life and theater, travel, adventure, and now music study. Cookie plays many instruments but for Keller it was a new experience. A good time was had by all and new friends were made. STRUM THE ANCIENT, TUNEFUL INSTRUMENT WITH THE ONE YOU LOVE -- the ukulele is not just a cheap plastic toy played under a palm tree! It's not the islands fair that are calling to me. It's not the balmy air nor the tropical sea. It's a little brown gal in a little grass skirt. In a little grass shack in Hawaii..." --from "My Little Grass Shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii" a famous ukulele-accompanied tune STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Our hotel ukuleles were adequate but not expensive, about $59 each. There are fancy ukuleles to be had for much more, ranging in the hundreds to $12k for a Martin. ALTHOUGH I PLAY more complicated musical instruments, the ukulele called to me. I knew it was more than a cheap plastic toy played under a palm tree. But the ukulele sounds so lovely and looks so simple, surely it could not be that easy, I reasoned. So when I saw ukulele lessons on the activities sheet at the Hilton Hawaiian Village I talked Keller into coming along, not just as a photographer but as a participant. An hour-long lesson at the lovely property on the beach attracted 15 of us ukulele aficionados from all over the world, including Australia and Japan. With the help of two amiable coaches, we actually played a recognizable song by lesson's end. IT'S NICE TO have a pretty, calming view when learning anything new. Tiny Tim made the ukulele famous again, with his warbling "Tiptoe Through the Tulips." So we relaxed our wrists and placed our hands on the instrument while our two cheery Hawaiian kaikamahines passed out our tune. Quickly, they had us strumming this captivating instrument, using our first finger to strum gently down and up. I thought of Robert Preston in "The Music Man," coaxing the youngsters to play. (We sounded something like that. It wasn't exactly harmonious.) THE UKULELE is a member of the guitar family. It usually has four nylon or gut strings, as ours did at the resort lesson. More sophisticated playing involves pairing the strings in courses to give the instrument a total of six or eight strings. That's for another lesson. Our coaches promised the ukulele would be an easy instrument to learn. While we were far from wizards, we did master a few simple chords and basic strumming patterns. We tuned our instruments to G, C, E and A, and worked on a song -- "You Are My Sunshine." Spanish guitar master spotlighted Ukulele masters through the years range from British comic George Formby back in the 1930s and 1940s to Tiny Tim and his mournful "Tiptoe Through the Tulips" on a 1968 Johnny Carson Show to young "America's Got Talent" whiz kids and perhaps the world's most famous virtuoso player Jake Shimabukuro. He is the instrument's equivalent of Proper ukulele technique begins with holding the instrument correctly. A Hawaiian born teacher assists. Pablo Casals on the cello or violinist Jascha Heifetz. THE HAWAIIAN-born ukulele master grew up playing traditional Hawaiian music with his mother but quickly segued into more complicated repertoire. He strums and plucks a variety of sounds and styles from the tiny instrument, from "Ave Maria" to jazz and show tunes and George Harrison's "While My Guitar Gently Weeps." Shimabukuro grew up playing traditional Hawaiian music on the ukulele, and has stuck with the instrument for 25 of his 29 years. Jake Shimabukuro is considered the modern day master of the ukulele. He is a true virtuoso. "I feel people get bored of playing the ukulele because they hear other things and they want to be able to play other things," he says. "But... I've always felt there was so much more to explore, and I really love it." So might you, if you brave a lesson. The Hawaiian word means, literally, "jumping flea." You might be jumping for joy if you make the ukulele leap. If you open your heart to adventure, and meeting new people. you'll soon be sailing with friends around the world/ UP NEXT: Travel enhances our lives more than any other aspect. It encompasses so many wonders -- nature, theater, dining -- and makes the world more accessible. Come with us to discover how relationships develop at sea, on airplanes, on a ship's tour, a boat excursion or a restaurant table. With a curiosity to learn about other cultures, strangers become friends. Up your international contact list and enrich your life, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us Fridays for a novel take on travel, the arts, family and nature at whereiscookie.com

The sting rays we swam with were friendly and enjoy people. The creature has one or more large sharp barbed dorsal spines near the base of the whiplike tail and is capable of inflicting severe wounds, and even death. We braved an encounter recently. Christene Meyers, right, holds a sting ray with help from a naturalist. GENTLE GIANTS OF THE SEA MAKE HUMAN CONTACT ON BEAUTIFUL ISLAND The man in blue is the naturalist, guiding tourists from Germany, Australia and the U.S. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU have never taken a swim with a sting ray, why not stretch yourself a bit, widen your horizons, try something new. I am not a water baby like much of my family or my part-amphibian partner. But I love nature and enjoy the bonds I've made with other species. So I entered the water and for a brief, happy time, making friends with a pair of sting rays off Antigua. Southern rays are the brightest rays in the Caribbean. As promised, we found them friendly, gentle and as interested in us as we were in them. It's believed to be good luck to kiss a ray as they snorkelers do. According to my partner, photographer Bruce Keller, they have learned to trust humans because they get food from them, and because people treat them with respect. WE FOUND the experience "a thrill of a lifetime," to use an overworked but accurate cliche. The cruise line billed it as "a unique opportunity to interact and feed the rays." What do these graceful guys and gals eat? Animals that are smaller and live on the bottom of the sea: worms, clams, oysters, shrimp, squid and fish smaller than they are. They're carnivors, like lions and tigers. Speaking of tigers, a segue to the incident with naturalist Steve Irwin. His bizarre death by a sting ray was caused because the creature believed his shadow was that of the tiger shark, the ray's greatest predator. That was a fluke. But the byword is still be careful and make slow movements. The sting rays are friendly and swim up to humans. The lure to visiting Stingray City is two-fold: besides the sting ray opportunity, Antigua offers some of the most magnificent snorkeling with brilliantly colored coral reefs and wildly colorful tropical fish. WE TOOK a bus from our cruise ship terminal, then boarded a speedboat for a 15-minute ride which whisked us to a shallow pool with a white sand bottom surrounded by beautiful coral reef. You may stand up or swim with the rays. After feeding, snorkeling and taking pictures with our new friends, we returned to our land base for punch and a rinse off. The "city" has a small bird zoo, with disappointing small cages. The sting ray experience is the highlight. Captain Keller on the boat to swim with the rays. You will be in a group when you venture out to swim with the sting rays. TO CHECK on Antigua travel given recent safety issues, use a free service for travelers or nationals living abroad: Smart Travel Enrollment Program, or STEP, issues updated advisory on global travel safety, sanctioned by the U.S. State Department: step.state.gov.; stingraycityantigua.com UP NEXT: Blue Hawaii beckons. That's Blue Hawaii Helicopter. Ride with us high above the clouds for a breathtaking adventure. The top-rated helicopter tour of the islands is waiting for you and we'll take you along on our journey above volcanic mountain tops, the city skyline of bustling Honolulu, the gorgeous canyons and beaches that make Hawaii famous -- and beautiful from a bird's eye view. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at travel, art, nature and family.

The most spectacular views of the Na Pali Coast are from the air or sea.  HIDDEN OAHU: NA PALI COASTLINE OFFERS STUNNING TERRAIN, NATURAL BEAUTY ABOARD 'PRIDE OF AMERICA'. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Not far from the coast line, pineapple fields grow much of the world's fruit. OAHU'S NORTH  Shore offers one of the world's most spectacular coastlines. But not many visitors to Honolulu take the time to enjoy the beauty. We took a leisurely sail past this wonder, aboard Norwegian Cruise Line's Pride of America.  Years ago, Hollywood discovered this pristine stretch of coastline with its eye-popping scenery. The crystal-clear water, jagged mountains and cascading waterfalls transport the viewer to fictional worlds such as those introduced in the "Jurassic Park" movies, "The Hunger Games" and many other famous films. Yet the cinematic beauty of this part of the Hawaiian Islands is very much "non-fiction." More than four million years ago, volcanic plates formed the islands. Where these plates came together, volcanoes were created, sending magma rising upward until it erupted on the seafloor, at what are called  “hot spots.” Pride of America offers a leisurely way to see the islands. WE HAD a recent close encounter with the result of this Earth-shaking phenomenon.  We've visited Hawaii many times, so booked a week aboard NCL's Pride of America for a different take. NCL is the only line making a popular weekly spin around these fabled isles. We wanted a laid-back cruise, since we are taking five other more demanding cruises this year.  We highly recommend this pleasant transit of the islands.  The Pride makes the trip each week for a leisurely look at the top towns and attractions on the four major Hawaiian islands. If you want a longer time on Oahu, we also recommend Turtle Bay Resort on the north shore, which provides fine access to the Na Pali Coast for myriad activities. Eager Pride of America passengers disembark for a look at the North Shore. Some of us took helicopter rides, as well as enjoying the boat's tour. LUSH JUNGLES  and rain forests lead to verdant cliffs that sometimes hang below the clouds. The jagged peaks and shades of green remind of the mountains and jungles of Peru. The scenic Na Pali coast is hard to beat for spectacular beauty, which is why it has attracted film directors for decades.   Some of the jungle scenes of  the "Jurassic Park" films were shot in Waimea Valley, also on the North Shore. That lovely canyon is also a great place for a delightful hike. Among the 250 other films shot here are "Blue Hawaii," with Elvis Presley, "Jumanji" and "Godzilla."  At Kualoa Ranch, you can tour jungle film sets  or a secret island, visit Hawaiian fishponds, go for a horseback ride, or drive an ATV. While visiting the North shore, check out the Kualoa Ranch, which served as a backdrop to the "Jurassic" pictures and many other science-fiction and adventure films. A working cattle ranch, it offers fun tours, some by jeep, of  its "Jurassic Park" locations, chosen by directors and cinematographers for the stunning scenery. Today, world famous Kualoa Ranch capitalizes on its good fortune -- with tours that take visitors to the locations, telling the stories of dinosaurs brought out of extinction through cloning. Approaching the Na Pali Coast, passengers aboard NCL's Pride of America enjoy the sun and prepare for a treat.  MANY OTHER  movie jungle scenes were captured in nearby Manoa Valley. One can take the trail in Manoa Valley to the 150-foot Manoa Falls. This gorgeous waterfall is well worth the hike, even if you aren’t a fan of the movies. There's something cinematic about visiting Oahu's North Shore and Na Pali Coast, but pinch yourself -- because it's all very real. This wonder of the world is thankfully being preserved by the Hawaiian people and shared with us all through  tourism -- and the movies! Veteran travel writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers and horticulturist Kate Logan at the entrance to Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. UP NEXT:  One of the world's most extraordinary gardens is the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, created by a Bay Area man who discovered a neglected 17-acre property 40 years ago and determined to create an oasis. After seven years of work, seven days a week, a beautiful garden emerged.  It is one of the treasures of the "Big Island" of Hawaii and we'll take you there.   Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at travel, the arts, family and nature.

Bromeliad, heliconia, anthurium, ginger, mango, spider lily and more await viewers at Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. A gecko suns himself on a leaf, here caught by the camera in silhouette. LUSH TROPICAL BLOOMS FAIRLY DRIP FROM THE TREES IN BOTANICAL PARADISE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Hawaii's familiar upright heliconia is on showy display. The garden also offers a lovely hanging variety. Fronds, stalks and stems make beautiful patterns as you stroll. At right, Kate Logan, horticulturist and supervising manager at Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, greets Cookie. A GARDEN in a valley, with a walking path to the ocean..... and along the way a fabulous fiesta of flowers, shrubs, trees, surrounded by abundant bird life, lovely little lizards enjoying the sun, bees buzzing happily, beauty all around. In 1977, Dan Lutkenhouse Sr. was visiting from the Bay Area when he fell in love with the Big Island of Hawaii and its lush Onomea Valley. Vacationing with his wife Pauline, he purchased 17 acres without really knowing what he would do with it. BUT SOON HE HAD a vision to transform the neglected piece of land. Says his son, Dan Lutkenhouse Jr., who carried on the project, "When my father first saw the valley, it was an overgrown, virtually impenetrable jungle." A beautifully laid out gift shop offers unique way to support the Botanical Garden with handmade and local crafts. His dad returned to the mainland, sold his 40-year old San Francisco trucking business and moved to Hawaii. For eight years, he devoted himself to the garden's transformation. With assistant Terry Takiue, and two helpers, the four men labored. Today, devoted horticulturist Kate Logan continues Lutkenhouse's dream, which showcases the natural environment and preserves valuable plants. During the creation, to preserve rare plants and not disturb tree roots, they used cane knives, sickles, picks, shovels and chain saws. Working seven-day weeks and long hours, they eventually cleared paths through the jungle. Colleagues and family remember that he'd leave in the morning with a sandwich, his tools and high hopes. The garden opened to the public in 1984 and now hosts more than 150,000 visitors each year. You'll feel as if you've gone down the rabbit hole as you duck to avoid the garden's thousands of brightly blooming plants. WHILE IT OFFERS visitors a beautiful, restful experience in nature, its mission is also to educate. School children learn the importance of conservation on our beleaguered planet. Guests join the move to preserve the planet's beauty, faced with over-population and imperiled resources. Armed with an excellent trail guide and map of the garden's dozens of plants and trees, we meandered. We followed paths leading gently down to the sea, mingling with people from around the world, just as the founder imagined. Two lovely rivers and waterfalls enhance the 2,500 species of plants, including many endangered species. The ocean coastline hosts mollusk, black crab, endangered sea turtles and the threatened Hawaiian monk seal. The garden boasts spider lily, ti leaf, jackfruit, mango, ivory nut palm and more The sound of water enhances the garden's beauty. WE RETURNED TO OUR ship after the eight-mile drive back to Hilo, having spent a lovely afternoon being peacefully educated by the fruits of one man's dream. The glorious garden he imagined lives! For a few short hours, we were an international link, admiring flowers and plants from the Hawaiian Islands, talking quietly, taking photos, praising the vision of this visionary man with a dream. And so it came to pass: "If you build it, they will come." www.hawaiigarden.com New York at night by Hornblower offers a fine opportunity to view the Statue of Liberty. UP NEXT: Experiencing New York at night is a memorable affair. No other city, except perhaps Las Vegas, has such glamour, glitz and allure. But New York has history, too, and water. Come with us to Ellis Island, Times Square and other famous landmarks, celebrating remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us each week for a fresh take on travel, the arts, family and nature at whereiscookie.com

A gathering -- family, friends, doggies -- in Bozeman, for coffee enroute to Yellowstone National Park. From left, Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Elliana Broscious, Christene (Cookie) Meyers, Ruth Rudner and David Muench. It's fun seeing Yellowstone through new eyes -- and those young eyes are learning how to photograph the park's wonders. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and CM MY FAVORITE trips -- aside from the romantic ones -- are family adventures, with two, three or even four generations. A cruise is perfect, with everyone doing his or her thing during the day then coming together for dinner and story-sharing at day's end. A variety of ages and backgrounds makes for learning -- stretching, growing, looking at the world from another's point of view. "Grannie Cookie" and Rowan Jones are hands on at the wonderful Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Ariz. Cookie and pal Grady Martin on a hill above the Pacific, overlooking La Jolla Shores in north San Diego. Cookie, Keller, Kristen and Zack cruising Lake Tahoe. WE'VE HAD grand times with my late mother at the Folies Bergere and the Opera Bastille in Paris, splendid cruises with sisters, brothers and nieces on the Rhine River, Baltic, Alaskan fjords and Caribbean. I've taken my late husband Billy's grandson Rowan Jones to the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, a grand place where hands-on exhibits let one try instruments from around the globe. Rowan, who calls me "Grannie Cookie," became a crack drummer. We've taken Keller's daughter, Kristen, and her fiancé Zack, cruising on Lake Tahoe, enjoying dinner, drinks and dancing and catching up. Stopping to smell the roses -- or share the ice cream. Here, Cookie with Nick and Nora in Julian, Calif. My Montana neighbor, Grady Martin, was a frequent visitor to southern California, where he lived for many years. I have happy memories of our times in his old stomping grounds, now my part-time home. Cookie, Keller and Cookie's sister Misha on San Diego Bay aboard their favorite Hornblower for a dinner cruise TRAVEL slows me down. It offers the opportunity to reconnect with loved ones and learn about their towns -- or show off mine. When my sister Misha comes to San Diego, we always take a dinner cruise. Sometimes we go for a sail, with "Captain Keller'' at the helm. From left, niece Amarylla, Cookie's mum Ellen, sister Robbie, and Cookie (Christene) tucking into appetizers on a Baltic cruise a few years ago on a favorite ship, Celebrity Century. When I'm at her home in Atlanta, we share cooking in her beautiful kitchen. When my niece Amarylla comes down from San Francisco, we hit the aquarium or Sea World. I'VE TAKEN sisters, niece and my late, much missed mother on the Baltic and all around Europe. Never have I enjoyed a sail-in as much as the morning we entered the harbor in Cobh, Ireland, from where my mother's grandmother came. "I'm home," my mum cried. Later on that same cruise, in Amsterdam, we took mum to the city's legendary smoke shops, where she enjoyed a few tokes and several brownies. We sang and told stories and made friends from all over Friend Corby Skinner and Cookie cruising near Athens. Europe that memorable night. That same year, my friend Corby Skinner and I traveled with a group of six other friends through the Greek Isles. Fun seeing Hadrian's Gate and ancient ruins with curious Corby. Near the end of her long life, my grandmother Olive delighted in meeting her first great-grandchild, Amarylla (now a mother herself). Wee Ama lovingly massaged her great-grandmum's arthritic legs. My parents lived to travel with their first great-grandchildren. STOPPING TO smell the flowers -- and perhaps to look one a new up with a curious niece or great-niece -- is a singular pleasure. Sharing your strawberry ice cream cone with a pair of hot, thirsty Yorkshire terriers is fun, too. Keller and Cookie at the Ahmanson Theatre, Los Angeles. COMING NEXT: Steve Martin's lively and touching Tony-nominated musical, "Bright Star," which he co-wrote with his friend Edie Brickell, is a stunning work, with an amazing bluegrass band on stage, a touching storyline, fine acting, snappy choreography and a delightful script (no surprise there, for Martin is a terrific writer, too.) We take you opening weekend to the Ahmanson Theatre in Los Angeles where the musical is in revival and selling out, after opening a few years back in our stomping grounds, San Diego, at the Old Globe, being revised for last year's Broadway run, and worked over again by Martin and Brickell for L.A. audiences.

With her faithful service dog, a young visitor poses her animal next to a one of the AKC Dog Museum bronzes. DOG DEVOTEES DELIGHT IN WHIMSICAL MUSEUM DEDICATED TO MAN'S BEST FRIEND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A fine collection of vintage books is among the museum finds. NEW YORK has gone to the dogs -- and happily so -- with the AKC Museum of the Dog. The delightful museum recently returned to New York City, back to where it began over 35 years ago. We spent a fun afternoon there, strolling from our Times Square hotel a few pleasant blocks to 101 Park Avenue, to enjoy one of the world's finest collections of canine-related art. Beautiful bronzes, whimsical watercolors, oils, ceramics, drawings, prints, carvings and inter-active exhibits celebrate man's best friend. A lovingly curated two-story tribute unfolds as one walks from room to room, admiring portraits of royalty with their dogs, hunters with theirs, children and their favorite pets, society matrons dressed to the nines with their canine companions and more. Beautiful bronzes of dogs are poised to watch over visitors at various spots in the two-level museum. THE SHINY new purpose-built galleries are across the street from Grand Central Station in the heart of Midtown Manhattan. Combining fine arts with cutting edge technology and interpretation, the Museum of the Dog provides unique and engaging experiences for visitors of all ages. A whimsical band features these musical pugs. As a life-long dog lover, with more than 15 doggies in my history, I was moved by the permanent collection and its variety. It is both touching and expansive, one of the finest and largest collections of canine-related fine art and artifacts in the world. Dog-related memorabilia and artifacts await the dog devotee: trophies, collars and books about dogs. Show trophies, collars and other dog-related works are also featured in the collection. One of the most famous White House dogs, Millie, belonged to George H.W. Bush and Barbara Bush. IF YOU have dog related art in your home, and are thinking of passing it on, but not sure who in the family or friend circle might enjoy it, consider donating it to the museum. Many wealthy patrons have done this, contributing oils, bronzes, watercolors, terracotta and many other treasures. An interactive exhibit allows visitors to pair their "bark" with a dog. Ours: a Tibetan Mastiff. The museum, sponsored by the American Kennel Club, relies primarily on donations and provides a forum for other AKC endeavors, including a highly ranked canine retreat and changing exhibits. On view now is a lively collection of Constance Bannister's world famous dog and baby photos. "Bannister Babies and Pet Pin-Ups" is on loan from Bannister's daughter, Lynda, who inherited her mother's 100,000 images. Memberships range from basic $60 a year, with unlimited museum admission, to "Blue Ribbon," "Best of Breed," "Champion," "Grand Champion" and "Best in Show." Those higher-priced tax-deductions range from $500 to $10,000. Walk-in admissions are $15 or $5 for kids, $10 for seniors or military. We give paws up and recommend an engaging afternoon or morning visit. museumofthedog.org Welcoming touches with natural rock, wood and even lichen make the Wayne and Pamela Gustafson home an inspiring retreat. UP NEXT: A place to call home, and a beautiful place it is. The elegant home Pamela and Wayne Gustafson is built with love and artistry. The couple integrate their artful touches -- he an architect and she as a needle artist -- to create a restful, soothing and inspiring home. A recent writers' workshop there was a wonderful experience for a dozen accomplished participants. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at the arts, nature, travel, family, pets and more at www.whereiscookie.com

The home of architect Wayne Gustafson and his artist wife Pamela is an oasis of calm and inspiration. INSPIRATIONAL HOME OF ARCHITECT AND ARTIST LIGHTS A FIRE OF CREATIVITY UNDER WRITERS The Gustafsons hosted a recent Writer's Voice workshop for 12 writers who used the grounds -- interior and exterior -- to sharpen their prose. At far left is teacher Christene Meyers, next to Gustafson. Pamela is at far right of the photo, surrounded by workshop participants. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "A structure must be functional, but it must be inviting and inspiring, too." -- architect Wayne Gustafson Lichen is integrated into the design. DRIVING UP a discreet, tree-lined cul de sac, a picturesque scene comes into view. The house and landscape seem as one. Trees and flowers complement the lines of the home. Unique artful touches abound. Wayne Gustafson shares his architectural acumen and the artful background of couple's home. The home of Pamela and Wayne Gustafson is truly their castle, and a restful and rejuvenating playground for children of all ages. Real stone is a crucial part of the Gustafsons' natural looking decor. RECENTLY, the artistic couple hosted a Writer's Voice gathering. A dozen workshop participants spent the day writing, revising, sharing and creating in a half-dozen alcoves, patio spaces and welcoming niches. The home and grounds were designed by architect Gustafson in the tradition of another great American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, whose environmentally integrated precepts changed the way people build and inhabit space both business and personal. Attention to detail marks every aspect of life in this home. Here, a beautiful alcove includes a bedroom fireplace and plants. The home and its soothing surroundings -- in the style of "form follows function" -- are a perfect muse for writers, including Pamela, whose elegant needle art is displayed throughout. GUSTAFSON IS known by peers for his attention to detail and skillful use of organic materials. The master artisan's architectural eye blends light, wood and natural products as he has done for decades. For he was light years ahead of his time -- "building green" from his early professional An expansive lawn the size of a football field was a chipping green in Gustafson's golfing days, later a playground for grandchildren. Now he and Pamela invoke the muse and share creative inspiration with friends. Pamela Gustafson and Christene (Cookie) review the day's efforts in the cheery living area. THUS AN invitation was extended to Corby Skinner's Writer's Voice national project to spend a day in workshop. (Full disclosure: I taught the session, at the request of previous writing seminar participants.) Wayne's hand chosen stone and Pamela's needle art. We gathered in the living room, on the north side of a sandstone fireplace that rises from the lower level, lit by subtle, natural light. Gustafson gave a tour, noting a skylight above the main fireplace. It channels the sun through slats of wood salvaged from a building in a coal-mining camp in southern Park County. Lichen on the wood and horizontal stones lends an earthy detail. Gustafson believes a structure must be functional, but invite and inspire, too. "It must be kept in context, especially when the effort is historical preservation or renovation." Bruce Keller, left, and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in a quiet corner of the Gustafsons' welcoming home and grounds. Recycled barn wood on the fire place, hand selected rocks and boards, and subtle filtered light enhance the beauty of the wood. Pamela Gustafson's elegant needle art is inspiration as she writes. Impeccable detail in the moldings and mitered glass corners create a stunning panorama, connecting the indoors and outdoors in the time honored style of Wright whose homes accented nature's beauty with meticulous interior design. PAMELA'S NEEDLE art provides the crowning touch. Her delicate, detailed designs -- all original -- provide sculptural accents, tapestries and wall hangings. Those who have lived in Billings a while know Gustafson's other works, including the Security Federal Savings Building at 24th Street West and Grand Avenue, built in 1974, and Faith Chapel at Broadwater Avenue and 24th Street West, built in 1993. He used his own home for inspiration on his other design projects, taking his notebook to one of the alcoves, meditating beneath the fir trees. The Sydney Harbor Bridge at the famous Sydney Opera House at night are probably among the world's most recognizable landmarks and harbors. UP NEXT: Harbors. Or is it harbors? Whichever way you spell it -- and both are correct -- you're near restful water giving shelter to ships, passengers and the citizenry. No matter which side of "the pond" you inhabit, or where in the world you love to travel, you're probably attracted to water, ports, rivers, harbors. We'll explore some of the planet's most beautiful "water linked" cities. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays at whereiscookie.com

Happy in Barcelona, taking a chance on love. NOT OLD, BUT BOLD, IN LOVE! DON'T LET THE CALENDAR STOP YOU FROM JOY Excited to be touring New York City together. Love is lovelier the second time around Just as wonderful with both feet on the ground It's that second time you hear your love song sung Makes you think perhaps that love, like youth, is wasted on the young --Sammy Cahn and Jimmy Van Heusen STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN MY SECOND husband passed, I was still in my fifties. Sad, confused and in mourning, I circled the wagons, looking at convent brochures. Perhaps I would sequester myself in a yurt in some remote village. My belongings would be a spoon, a bowl, a single painting, a dozen books and a hair shirt. I would be the world's first penitent comedienne because I would also take my sense of humor. My sister Robbie giggled, "You are NOT -- definitely NOT -- convent material. "You still have 20 good years of travel, maybe more." Enjoying Amsterdam with its historic windmills. She coaxed me back into the world of dating and after a half-dozen disasters, I met by chance Bruce William Keller. While I was twice widowed, he was three years out of divorce, recovering from a near fatal car crash and an unhappy marriage. In Sweden on a Baltic trip last week, touring on an electric bus. I SHARE OUR story to encourage others to take that chance. Ladies, put yourselves out there. There are so many wonderful LIVING, LOVING, LIFE GOES ON ways to meet like-minded people -- book clubs, dance classes, theaters and concert halls (perhaps volunteer as an usher). Gents: the same advice goes for you. You may wonder "What if she turns me down?" But what the hell; ask. What's the worst that can happen? Looking forward to the future and relishing the present. Cookie and Keller just returned from a month on the Baltic. What if they'd never met? When we cruise, which we love doing, we attend the on-board trivia contests and art classes during the at-sea days. We also book a table for four or six rather than dining at a table for two. We've met many lovely friends around the world this way. Of course, as with all things, one must put oneself out there. MY BEST advice, having chosen not to enter the convent, is to be yourself, continuing to nurture your passions and look for someone who shares them. If you desire companionship -- someone to travel with, see a play or movie with, enjoy a dinner, hike or sports event, don't delay. Carpe diem. Tempus fugit. As Bobby McFerrin suggests, "Don't worry. Be happy." Autumn blankets the West Fork of the Stillwater River, a serene place in south-central Montana. UP NEXT: Autumn around the world. Known as fall in the U.S. and Canada because of the shedding of leaves from deciduous trees, it's a magical time, the favorite of poets and artists and the two of us. We take you to some of our favorite fall corners of the world where the leaves drop and colors change from green to light yellow, deep gold, orange, crimson and deep red – inspired by a natural process. We share a few of our favorite fall quotes too, as we remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us each Friday for a fresh take on travel, the arts, nature, family and more at whereiscookie.com.

As artfully designed Blue Pepper opens for the evening, Cookie pauses with staff to survey the Amsterdam restaurant. Awaiting the first course at Blue Pepper, Cookie smiles. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU DESIRE a truly memorable dinner while visiting Amsterdam -- one that will linger long in the memory, with smells, tastes and colors you recall for years -- choose a rijsttafel feast at Blue Pepper Restaurant. I've been a fan of this complex and satisfying dish since the late 1960s when as young adventure seekers, my teen-aged girlfriends and I ordered rijsttafel at a small Indonesian restaurant in Amsterdam. Delicately cooked scallop with a tasty orange sauce: delicious. Our eyes widened as dish after dish arrived at our table, magnificent meats, fish, vegetables, chicken, pickles, skewers of delicacies all seasoned with an amalgam of spices we struggled to identify. Since then, I've spent more than a half-century sampling rijsttafel wherever and whenever I can, even enticing a dear friend of Dutch and Indonesian heritage to invite us to rijsttafel at her home. She did! Thank you, Ragna, and your excellent mama. You two fine cooks worked for several days on the meal and we thoroughly enjoyed it. THE MEAL is often served with beer, but Blue Pepper offers the courses with interesting wine pairings, which I sampled. (My husband savored a fruity but not too sweet non-alcoholic specialty drink). Several non-alcoholic beers would also pair nicely with the feast, which includes rice if you like. A trio of satay -- each different, and each in its own sauce -- is a must at Blue Pepper, where subtlety, variety, flavor reign. Rijsttafel is spelled several ways. (This one most common.) A delightful specialty drink can be served with or without alcohol. The libation's quality matches that of the fine food. THE TASTY DISHES that comprise a rijsttafel meal have been around hundreds of years in Indonesia. The Dutch brought the dish to Europe in the 1600s, when they were a significant presence in the region. In fact, the Dutch ruled in Indonesia from 1602 to 1945, almost 350 years, most of the time referring to it as the East Indies. Wonderfully attentive service from waiter Terenzio Gnoni is part of Blue Pepper's charm. The name, “rijsttafel” is Dutch in origin and means literally “rice table.” Dutch plantation owners liked the array of dishes and desired to sample a mix of them at one sitting. In restaurants or at a large catered party, guests often find rijsttafel on a buffet or the center of the table and are not expected to sample every offering. Blue Pepper kicks it up a notch, serving the meal in small appealing courses. We sampled a six-part extravaganza ranging from tender succulent scallops with macadamia nuts and orange, to scrumptious deep-fried eggplant, a marvelous jack fruit and peanut satay with soy and lime and a medley of pickles, prawns, steamed vegetables and a dessert both scrumptious and pretty. Dessert for the birthday boy. Keller's dessert medley was a beautifully arranged boat of delicacies -- chocolate, berries, petit fours. THERE ARE dozens of offerings and Blue Pepper's knowledgeable and friendly waiters will help you narrow the field based on your preferences. Our delightful waiter, Terenzio, patiently and with aplomb offered personal recommendations: a pulled-goose fried spring roll with a fragrant cloves and cinnamon sauce; a refreshing fruit dish of pineapple, mango and cucumber with a tasty sauce; a spicy guinea-fowl curry unlike anything we'd sampled in other rifsttafel haunts. IF YOU want to learn a few words before you select your meal, bone up on these: ayam means chicken; ikan means fish; daging means meat; sayur means veggies with broth and maybe a bit of meat; sate is barbecued meat or fish on skewers; sambal goreng is spicy vegetables; sambal goreng kering is spicy and stands alone; sambal is a chili condiment (go easy!) and rudjak is fresh fruit with spicy sweet sauce. We recommend the fried side dishes, goreng, and don't be shy to try a zingy pickled veggie relish, acar. Krupuk (with a long u) is a deep fried chip similar to India's papadum. Blue Pepper's delightful menu is served both in a beautifully designed Amsterdam restaurant and in a canal cruise, served tableside. Since Amsterdam is built on canals, the Blue Pepper's candlelight dinner cruise is another option, a wonderfully decadent way to gild the lily. Combine fine dining with some of the world's most varied waterways with rijstaffel, champagnes and wines served at your table. WHY NOT experience both the canal cruise and the restaurant. If you come to Blue Pepper and dine early or late, (avoiding the busy 6:30-9 p.m. when it is packed,) you'll enjoy a welcome prosecco or signature cocktail on the house. We've tried a half-dozen other restaurants serving unique Indonesian food in Amsterdam, but none compare to the flair, quality and detail of Blue Pepper. restaurantbluepepper.com Daniel Ramos, Jose Bales, Salomon Maya in "Bad Hombres, Good Wives" encounter one another at San Diego Repertory Theatre. UP NEXT: We'll be back to Europe for more adventure soon -- in the English countryside, aboard British trains and into northern Europe and the Baltic. But first, a segue: come with us to southern California where our San Diego theater season is heating up for an autumn bonanza of comedy, drama, spoofs and more. We'll preview a few of our favorites in what looks to be a stellar line-up of quality work. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fun, fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, romance, food, family and more.

Castle Howard's grand entrance and courtyards hosted the wedding reception of a famed British singer Ellie Goulding to a Sotheby's art dealer. Part of the stage assembly and sound system are visible at the right. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A staged pre-ceremony photo of the Goulding-Jopling wedding reception at Castle Howard was shared with the press. -- photo courtesy London Times TWO OF YORKSHIRE'S most historic and magnificent structures became even more famous recently when they hosted the wedding of a famous English couple. Singer and composer Ellie Goulding and Sotheby's art dealer Caspar Jopling had just married on the grounds of the famous Castle Howard the weekend before we visited. Their elaborate wedding ceremony was held in nearby York Minster. History, gardens in California, click here The home's magnificent art collection includes ancient sculptures and Roman busts, paintings by old masters and works by Joshua Reynolds and Thomas Gainsborough. Castle Howard, like many British castles, is known for its magnificent art collection: paintings, sculpture, furniture, tapestries and historic mementos. Castle Howard is northernmost of the ten castles and houses considered "Treasure Houses of England." Owned by Castle Howard Estates Ltd, Simon is chairman and managing director; his elder brother Nicholas, is 63, and each are 50 per cent shareholders. There's family scandal at the castle, made famous by the TV adaptation of Evelyn Waugh's iconic novel "Brideshead Revisited." In 2015, it came to a head as the oldest heir evicted his younger brother and family. The stately home, 15 miles north of York, is still a private residence for the older brother, but litigation continues. The home has been in the Carlisle branch of the Howard family for more than 300 years and was once served by its own railway station. (What do the simple folk do?) Anthony Andrews and Jeremy Irons were on set at Castle Howard for the filming of "Brideshead Revisited," a 1981 BBC masterpiece. --photo courtesy BBC Films NEVER MIND the gossip. For me, our visit was a nostalgic journey. I am a devoted fan of "Brideshead...," that masterful 1981 British television serial starring Jeremy Irons as Charles Ryder and Anthony Andrews as Sebastian. The bittersweet story revolves around a young painter who becomes involved with an eccentric aristocratic family. Castle Howard became Brideshead and much of the footage was actually shot there. So I remembered with affection particular scenes in the magnificent gardens, by the imposing fountain and sculpture hall. The grounds are grand and imposing with classical sculpture and an imposing design. OUR YORKSHIRE friends John and Sue, toured us around the 18th Century castle, voted by England's Telegraph as "one of the top 10 buildings you must see in your lifetime." Bruce Keller, aka Keller and Christene Cookie Meyers pose in front of York Minster, during a recent visit to the UK. We spent a leisurely afternoon prowling the magnificent grounds with expansive woodlands, meticulous gardens and the sweeping courtyard which hosted the wedding. Positioned grandly on the saddle of a natural ridge, the classical landscape was conceived on a Roman scale by Charles Howard, Third Earl of Carlisle. He was a devoted student of classical art and poetry and wished to recreate an ideal world, a "Versailles of Yorkshire" if you will. He might not have approved of the stage and sound equipment which were being dismantled after the expensive reception following the lavish York Minster ceremony (flowers and vegan cuisine cost 60,000 pounds. Wags put a million pound price tag on the entire affair.) But since construction took over 100 years to complete, it didn't seem unusual that striking the wedding set should take a few days. THE NEXT DAY we were offered another historic treat, a double-header. Our hosts John and Sue planned a visit to York's National Railway Museum, one of the world's finest. Riding the Brit rails, click here Sue and John Spaight and Cookie stroll "the Minster," as York Minster is affectionately known. Conveniently, it offers transportation via a charming small road train to York Minster, the second-largest Gothic cathedral of Northern Europe. (Cologne's is only slightly larger.) We took the quick open-air trip then strolled the streets of York a bit -- the Minster is in a lovely neighborhood so we walked around the building, enjoying its splendid architecture. INSIDE, THE minster was filled with hundreds of blooms from dozens of wedding bouquets. That added to the charm as we admired the elaborate detail of the building. The Minster charts English Gothic architecture's development from Early English to the Perpendicular Period. Amazingly, the building took more than 11 centuries to complete -- begun in 230 and completed in 1472. TO US YANKS, whose culture was founded in the 1600s, the century span is staggering. But like many historic places in England, the site's history stretches back near 2,000 years. It was first used in 627, when a wooden church was erected for the baptism of Edwin, King of Northumbria. Fountains Abbey is an imposing ruin in North Yorkshire. UP NEXT: While we're in the neighborhood visiting splendid palace houses and castles, let's not miss Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal. The beautiful abbey ruins in North Yorkshire remind of a hard life, when Cistercian monks raised crops and raised sheep. It is one of the largest and best preserved monasteries in England, three miles southwest of Ripon in North Yorkshire, near the village of Aldfield. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for fresh looks at travel, arts, nature, family and more. whereiscookie.com

+ Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal in Yorkshire is the largest of its kind in Europe, a vast ruin open to the sky. We visited with friends who are regulars to the famed abbey. Bruce Keller dons a monk's robes to try to imagine what life might have been like centuries ago, working the inhospitable land. FOUNTAINS ABBEY REACHES TO THE SKY WITH GIANT PILLARS, ARCHES, HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NAMED FOR the nearby water source that once fed the monks' crops, Fountains Abbey is one of the best preserved ruined Cistercian monasteries in England. We recently walked in the monks' shadows in this beautiful but rugged, much loved sanctuary in North Yorkshire. It's located near the charming village of Aldfield and is a World Heritage Site. Medieval architecture remains in a beautiful setting making Fountains Abbey a unique tourist destination. Our Yorkshire hosts, John and Sue, prepped us for the beauty and drama of the ruins, but not the sheer size. Fountains not only boasts beautifully preserved ruins. It is also by far the largest monastic ruins in the country. ONE CAN walk for hours, and still not explore its verdant slopes entirely. The abbey goes back nine centuries, founded in 1132 when 13 disgruntled Benedictine monks broke away from St Mary’s in York. They felt St. Mary's had strayed too far from the original Benedictine principles of austerity and simplicity. These hard-working men eventually founded their own order, meanwhile plowing the land, raising sheep and providing their own food and garments. Fountains remained in private hands until the 1960s, but in between were the Georgians, who crafted the first of the stunning gardens. John Aislabie, a well known British politician, and his son William owned the land for years and added to its elegant hedges and sculpture gardens. An opulent Victorian church was designed by William Burges in the deer park. A Jacobean manor house also stands on the grounds, and this month, Christmas is ushered in with frost twinkling above the moon ponds and a carol service in the cellarium. "Keller and Cookie" prowl the Fountains grounds. The place is lighting up for the holidays and concerts. THE ESTATE is expansive -- almost 670 acres -- and includes a unique water garden, graceful temples, imposing statues, and large grassy areas used for weddings, picnics, concerts and parties. People travel from all over the world to bask in the glories of the natural landscape. National Trust volunteer guide John Carter explained the history behind the landmark as we wandered: The thick forests and mountain slopes, jutting rocks and raging River Skell convinced York's Archbishop Thurston to deed the inhospitable land to the troublesome monks. Perhaps he figured it wouldn't amount to much. Wrong. Clever, and desperate, the monks offered to pray for their neighbors' salvation in exchange for gifts of money and endowments. Eventually, their enterprise made it one of the largest, richest and most influential Cistercian abbeys in Britain. Abbeys abound in Europe and the United Kingdom, but none to surpass Fountains Abbey with its well preserved ruins and fine Visitors Center. BUT LIFE for a 12th century monk was not easy. The monks undertook vows of poverty, simplicity, obedience, chastity and silence. These vows were strictly observed. Contact with women was forbidden. Their diet was severe: bread, vegetables and beer; just two meals were offered each day in summer, only one in winter. The monks dedicated their lives to prayer and meditation with church services eight times a day, every day, starting at 2 a.m. Not a life for the weak or unprincipled. A wedding party rests between photos at Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire. LOCALS LOVE to show the abbey off, as well they should. We promised our friends we would return to do adequate justice to it. One could easily spend a day or two in any season. The site is part of the National Trust, which looks after the place. It also boasts a nice restaurant where we enjoyed lunch. And, of course, a gift shop. Perhaps it's time to purchase your own personal monk's robe. This Chinese style duck was found not in a Cantonese city but in a fancy Istanbul restaurant, on Christmas Day. UP NEXT: You may not find traditional fare while dining abroad during the holidays. But you may be pleasantly surprised if you watch where the locals go to celebrate -- and embrace their choices. Whether it's steak in Argentina, latkes in Israel, paella in Spain or a barbecue Down Under, give something new a try and embrace the change. You may find yourself dining on duck in Istanbul! Remember to explore, learn and live, catching us each Friday for a fresh look at travel, the arts, family, nature and more: whereiscookie.com

New Year's Eve lights are spectacular in Bangkok, from the beautiful hotels and a dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya River. Times Square in the distance will soon be aglow and visited by by thousands to watch the ball drop in central New York City. HOLIDAY ON THE ROAD YIELDS SURPRISES, DELIGHTS, NEW WAYS TO CELEBRATE We witnessed a New Year's Day proposal on a Melbourne bridge. Aussies use "love locks" to declare their affection. The keys get thrown in the water. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE HAVE logged many splendid holidays abroad. It's a fun way to make new friends and learn new traditions. Some favorite memories of the last week of the year: Down Under, New Year's falls in the summer. So Aussies like to slip a shrimp on the barbie and take a stroll sometimes to add love locks to the bridges they so cherish: Sydney's famous Harbour Bridge, Melbourne's and Brisbane's several distinctive ones. During the holidays -- even more than the rest of the year -- young Australian couples use padlocks to engrave their names or a message, attach them to a bridge, then throw the keys into the water below. AUSSIES TAKE credit for inventing the now worldwide phenomenon but we've also seen love locks on bridges in Europe, the U.S. and South America, particularly Buenos Aires, on El Puente de La Mujer, or Woman’s Bridge which is said to represent the voluptuous shape of a female tango dancer. DURING A TANGO dinner show one New Year's Eve in Buenos Aires, we feasted on empanadas, flavorful Argentine steak and an inexpensive, delicious red wine. The Bay Area's Filoli Historic House and Gardens dresses up Christmas-New Years week. Here, Cookie and Keller enjoy. In Barcelona one New Year's Eve, we joined friends in a splendid paella feast then at midnight, we ate 12 grapes each for good luck, one for each stroke of the clock. Filipinos put their spin on this fruity tradition, too. Philippine tradition is also to eat 12 plums, berries or grapes at midnight. They also believe polka dots are lucky and wear lots of those. The fun-loving Scots celebrate New Year’s Eve with Hogmanay, or “first-footing.” The first person who crosses a threshold of a home in the New Year brings a gift for luck. Scots also stage bonfires where people swing giant fireballs on poles. This symbolizes the sun and purifies the coming year. Adult beverages are usually part of the fun. Buffets in Bangkok's best hotels are lavish and detailed. Here, fruits and vegetables in holiday colors abound. WE TOOK our half-Scottish great-niece and nephew and their Scotch-Irish-English parents during the holidays to Filoli Historic House and Gardens. If you're in the Bay Area, soon, do visit this splendid 654-acre estate in Woodside, you'll be treated to a fairyland of lights and holiday decorations, a dozen beautiful Christmas trees and a splendid light display. It's 25 miles south of San Francisco, worth the drive. Corned beef and cabbage, with onions and potatoes usher in the new year in Irish homes here and on the Emerald Isle. The Thai people love New Year's Eve, time for friends, feasting and fireworks. Bangkok's biggest countdown party is staged each New Year's Eve in front of the city's biggest shopping mall in the heart of the downtown. We once had New Year's dinner at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Bangkok, where spectacular food displays shared the spotlight with festive lights and decorations. Melbourne, Australia, "Down Under," decks out its beautiful bridges with holiday bows. And the attire is summer clothes, south of the Equator. Strolling the bridges is a popular New Year's Day tradition. IN IRELAND holiday pudding is often served on New Year's Eve, made with Guinness or Irish whiskey, whatever your pleasure. Corned beef, cabbage, carrots, potatoes and onion are as traditional for Irish New Year as they are on St. Patty's Day in the U.S. South Africans may break their fast New Year's with "khetum." It's rice, fish, chickpeas, yogurt soup, dried nuts and grape jelly desserts. BUT HERE IS my favorite New Year's tradition, which we joined in once in Cartagena: With two other couples -- new friends, one hosting us for dinner -- we honored their frivolous Colombian custom. In hopes of a travel-filled new year, we smilingly carried six empty suitcases around the block. When you fly or cruise into Naples, you'll have an opportunity to visit the spectacular Amalfi Coast. Consider that for your 2020 wish list. UP NEXT: Where in the world should you travel in 2020? Be daring, do some homework. The new year offers a time to plan and dream, and travel hopes come in many concepts and possibilities. We'll share one of our favorite destinations and help you plan to get there yourselves as Naples and the Amalfi coast call us. We'll have fun and be helpful, so join us. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family, recreation and more: www.whereiscookie.com