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- Hilo's Tsunami Museum packs a powerful punch with frightening exhibits, films, commentary
The dreaded tsunami was the focus of an interesting afternoon for Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, who visited the engaging Pacific Tsunami Museum in Hilo, Hawaii . An extensive collection of photos, oral histories, videos, artifacts and displays awaits. We recommend staying at Hilton's Grand Naniloa Hotel, a welcoming Double Tree with gorgeous harbor views. The wreckage caused by a tsunami is enormous. The Hilo museum explores the causes of the killer waves. KILLER WAVES EXPLORED IN VIVID DETAIL AT PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM IN HILO, HAWAII ENHANCE YOUR VISIT WITH A SPLENDID VIEW AT GRAND NANILOA HILTON DOUBLE TREE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Dramatic displays tell the story of how humanity is affected by tsunami's horrors. TSUNAMIS are among the planet's most fearsome natural disasters. And nowhere are people more aware of the dangers of this raging act of nature than in the Hawaiian Islands. In Hilo, Tsunami sirens are on alert and school children are taught to watch for warning signs: tremors, roars from the ocean, receding waters exposing the sea floor. All spell impending doom. Evacuation Zones are marked and families store emergency kits. Since 1812, more than 160 confirmed tsunamis have been recorded on the islands, causing countless deaths and damage topping $625 million. The April, 1946, tsunami in Hilo alone, killed 159 people and destroyed $26 million in property. Its cause was an undersea earthquake off the Alaskan coast triggering the massive Big Island tsunami. IT SEEMS fitting, then, that the world's only museum dedicated entirely to the tsunami is located in Hilo. Tsunamis around the world are explored in well designed displays with photographs, news clips. The fascinating Pacific Tsunami Museum -- a thoughtfully renovated bank-- tells the fearsome tale of the tsunami, pronounced soo-NAH-mee, and its impact in Japan, Alaska, the Indian Ocean and elsewhere. Taken from the Japanese, tsunami means "harbor wave" but is usually a series of waves caused by an underwater disturbance. Earthquakes, landslides and volcanic eruptions are among tsunami's chief causes. Getting a breath of fresh air after the intensity of the fine Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo's small but excellent museum interestingly weaves specific tsunami occurrences with data, photographs and narrative. It features an interesting mix of scientific exhibits. A favorite with school children is an interactive wave-making model which allows the visitor to make his own miniature tsunami. Stories of rescues and heroism are also well told. AN ABSORBING film includes moving personal anecdotes of brave tsunami survivors, interlaced with graphic details of personal brushes with monster waves. The museum is all about stories and tells them well. Diagrams, maps, newspaper accounts and displays show various horrifying tsunamis over the last 500 years. Visitors learn what caused them and see stories of the human survival spirit. Maps show "runup points" -- measurements of the heights wave reach. Positano today is a highlight on Italy's Amalfi coast. In 1343, it was the scene of a huge tsunami which destroyed the town, ending the republic's sea power days. Where tsunamis were caused by earthquakes, the quake's magnitude is analyzed through wave energy creating this fearsome natural disaster. TSUNAMIS GO back centuries. The oldest recorded one occurred in 479 BC, destroying a Persian army attacking Potidaea, Greece. Fast forward to 1958, in a display recounting effects of a huge tsunami triggered by an Alaskan landslide. Its 1,700-foot wave -- the largest ever recorded -- inundated five square miles of land and cleared thousands of trees. Another catastrophe occurred in Europe on the Amalfi coast, where we've many times visited. In its maritime republic days, it was a thriving port with a wealthy population of 70,000. The ocean awaits, with beautifully landscaped grounds, at Grand Naniloa Hotel in Hilo, Hawaii. That was until 1343 when it was wiped out. A massive earthquake under the Tyrrhenian Sea sparked a devastating tsunami along southern Italy's coast. Amalfi’s harbor and its boats were destroyed; the lower town fell into the sea. A once thriving city shrank to a village of 6,000, ending Amalfi's days as a sea power. THE LOVELY stretch of coastline from north of Naples to south of the Cilento National Park bore the brunt of the huge killer wave, which wiped out the towns of Bussanto and Blanda, near present-day resorts of Sapri and Maratea. Both Naples and nearby Salerno suffered huge damage, including a death toll of tens of thousands. The Hilo museum is a testimony both to the power of the tsunami and the power of the human spirit. More information on this intriguing museum : www.tsunami.org Best bet for your Hilo stay: Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo, www.grandnaniloahilo.com A refreshing green tea drink is served at Just Matcha Tea Shop, one of seven varied stops on a highly recommended "Taste of Victoria" food tour. UP NEXT: Food glorious food! Plus history, exercise, variety, fun. Victoria, British Columbia, has much to recommend it, and we frequent visitors found a new, delightful, food-sampling, history-telling venue. We take readers on a "Taste of Victoria" food tour, Canada's top-rated food tour, with stops at a variety of large and small bars, eateries and food stands. We found it an engaging way to spend a few hours. Owner Andy Olson delivers a delightful time showing his love both of food and his adopted city. Rain or shine, he takes foodies and history lovers around downtown Victoria, from tea and sweets shops to pubs, Indonesian and barbecue eateries and other hidden gems in this lively, historic city where he knows everyone. Remember to explore, learn, live and catch us weekly. Please share: www.whereiscookie.com
- Salute to the euduring Queen Elizabeth II, from a loyal American fan
Queen Elizabeth II, watches a "fly-past" of the Royal Air Force, with Prince Charles, heir to the throne, and her great-grandchildren, Prince Louis and Princess Charlotte, and their mother, Catherine Middleton, who became the Duchess of Cambridge when she married Prince William. LONG LIVE THE QUEEN AS AN AMERICAN WRITER RECALLS LONDON VISITS, ROYAL ENCOUNTERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER & C MEYERS and courtesy The Times of London and CNN Thousands are gathering in the Mall outside Buckingham Palace in a four-day holiday celebrating Queen Elizabeth II's remarkable, record-setting 70 years on the throne. Here the Royal Air Force does a "fly-past" as it is known in the UK. MY AFFECTION for Queen Elizabeth dates to her coronation and my introduction to television. As a toddler in 1953, I sat fascinated on my mum's knee as we watched history and majesty unfold. What transpired on our new black and white TV heralded the beginning of my lifelong fascination with London and the Royals. It also represented the introduction to the world of television as mainstream media. LITTLE DID I know how remarkable QEII's reign would be -- or that I would be invited to cover her Silver Jubilee in 1977. Or that as a travel writer, I would visit London dozens of times and write about it for magazines and newspapers. Lifelong love of the Royals Street parties were everywhere in 1977, when Christene "Cookie" Meyers covered QEII's Silver Jubilee. Thousands of parties are taking place this week as well, throughout England. In July of 1977, at London's posh Intercontinental Hotel on Hyde Park, as champagne flowed, I learned with 49 other American journalists the protocol for meeting royals. While we were told there were no obligatory rules for Americans meeting royals, we females were urged by a protocol advisor to give a small, polite curtsy. Men were to give a neck bow, from the head only. This was in preparation to our meeting Princess Anne and the "Queen Mum," at a gala black tie party the next evening. THAT MEMORABLE weekend was 45 years ago, celebrating QEII's 25 years on the throne. Although we didn't meet the Queen, we saw her from the crowd as she waved from the famous Buckingham Palace balcony. Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip wave at the crowds at her coronation in 1953. This is her first celebration without her husband of 73 years. We did meet Princess Anne at the world premiere of the latest James Bond film, "The Spy Who Loved Me." We also met the Queen Mum at a pub in Leicester Square near the Odeon Theater where many activities took place and she pulled her own pint and finished it with a gin chaser. I'VE WATCHED "The Crown," have seen many plays on the royal family, read biographies and visited their palaces and castles. But I'll never forget that long ago black-and-white viewing of the coronation. The young queen was beautiful; the event was magical. I memorized the names of the eight grey gelding horses which pulled her and Prince Philip in the gold state coach: Cunningham, Tovey, Noah, Tedder, Eisenhower, Snow White, Tipperary and McCreery. Westminster Abbey is one of the world's most famous examples of gothic architecture. James Bond, Princess Anne, Cookie The Admiralty on London's Trafalgar Square is a favorite of locals and visitors, who enjoy its old-timey feeling in a decor suggesting a ship. The pub is one of hundreds celebrating the Queen's Jubilee. I adored those horses, the pomp and circumstance, the jewels, the hats. I supposedly told my mother, "I'm going to to ' West Minister " to pray for the Queen." (That often quoted family malaprop came from an awestruck four-year old's lips.) A dozen years later as a teen-age visitor to London, my first London stop was Buckingham Palace, then Westminster Abbey, where QE2 became the thirty-ninth sovereign to be crowned. That magnificent gothic building is one of the world's most famous architectural masterpieces with its magnificent stained glass, sweeping arches, vaulted ceilings and gargoyles. I never tire of a visit. I IMAGINE 1245 when King Henry III pulled down the eastern part of the 11th Century Abbey and made it his own, complete with flying buttresses. For even on our little 16-inch telly -- the largest money could buy at the time -- I was hooked on history, royalty and marvelous old buildings. IN DOZENS of visits to the UK, I never miss a chance to hoist a pint in a pub, or take a side trip to Windsor, Sandringham or Balmoral or any of the string of palatial residences owned by the royals. Hats off to the Royals Princess Diana, Prince Charles on wedding day. The Queen has seen Diana die and Charles remarry, to his longtime mistress, Camilla. IF MY MOTHER had lived, she'd be a year younger than the Queen. Prince Charles is just a couple years older than I, so one could say I've grown up with the royal family. I've followed their triumphs and tragedies. I set my alarm to watch the wedding of Prince Charles and Diana, then again, the wedding of Prince William and Katherine Middleton. Didn't miss a minute of Diana's touching funeral, and am tuning in to ABC to watch highlights of the four-day 70th Jubilee Celebration. A highlight: the Queen's pre-recorded tea party with Paddington Bear. Delightful fun. Queen Elizabeth II is surrounded by, left, her son Charles, the Prince of Wales, next in line to the throne, Prince George and his father Prince William, whose mother was Princess Diana. Although she was only 25 when she was proclaimed Queen after her father died in 1952, she would have just turned 27 when she was officially crowned in June, 1953, after the customary mourning period. The coronation pre-empted "I Love Lucy" and "Dragnet." More than 20 million tuned in. It was the first time in history that a TV audience outnumbered radio's. I've grown up with TV -- and the Royal Family. My favorite corner of Westminster, the Lady Chapel, last phase to be finished. I admire the Queen for her fortitude and grace. She's seen the family through scandal and tragedy, divorce and controversy. She grieved the loss of her husband of 73 years and has lately experienced issues with balance and walking. Of course. She's nearly a century old, bless her. She still enjoys a daily cocktail, pets her beloved corgis and chats up the next generation, her great-grandchildren. Yes, she's the world's richest woman and lives what many consider an extravagant, pampered life, but it must also be lonely at times. Her only sister and best friend, Princess Margaret, has been gone for years. Yet she arises each day, faces the world, goes to work, does her duty. For me, she is an endearing, enduring figure, a "grand dame" in the grandest sense. MORE INFORMATION: To watch the festivities, tune in to ABC, which per an agreement with BBC, is broadcasting live from London and Buckingham Palace through the weekend. Come aboard the Love Tours "hippie bus" for a fun time in San Francisco. Here Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller pau se in the wind by Golden Gate Bridge. UP NEXT: We're aging hippies, and sometimes we listen to the music from "The Summer of Love." So come with us on the "Hippie Bus," for a Love Tour of San Francisco. We take a magical trip aboard the colorful VW bus to Haight Ashbury, accompanied by the music of Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin. Love Tours tells the tale of a generation which shaped music, politics and art. It's counter-culture time and we promise a lively experience. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, music, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link.
- 'Love Tour' takes visitors around San Francisco with a hippie spin
A VW bus is painted in colorful fashion as Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller enjoy a tour down memory lane to the summer of love and more. JANIS, JIMI, HISTORY, ART, HAIGHT-ASHBURY COME ALIVE ABOARD VW 'HIPPIE BUS' TOUR STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Above, top right: the home of famed guitarist Jimi Hendrix at 1524 Haight Street, is featured on entertaining Love Tour. Above, the neatly mowed lawns of The Presidio. FROM ITS famous streets to its nightclubs, galleries, monuments, stately mansions, street musicians, dive bars, posh eateries and renowned cable cars, San Francisco is a city to behold, savor and revisit. The city's Love Tours is a heartfelt way to see this intriguing and mixed-bag town in new light. Whether you're a frequent visitor or a newcomer to the city by the bay, this entertaining look at one of the world's most photographed towns is guaranteed to have you tapping your toes and remembering way back when. We two aging hippies booked the tour, which includes a musical soundtrack as visitors admire the sights and streets, bars and cafes frequented by the hippie generation during the 1960s and '70s. But San Francisco's Love Tours is more than that. It weaves in the broader history of the town, too -- its ethnic mix, architecture, military past, the great 1906 earthquake and fire and more. Five buses and a cadre of expert driver/guides take tourists down a splashy memory lane featuring not only the beat generation, but highlights of one of the world's most colorful cities. C rooked Lombard Street -- designed in 1922 -- is the result of engineers who deemed the hill too steep for vehicles. From book stores to military housing and time honored nightclubs, we explored this pretty city of hills, parks, winding streets, tattoo parlors and more. WE SAW sturdy buildings that survived the 1906 earthquake, buildings erected for the Pan Pacific Exposition in 1915 to herald the opening of the Panama Canal, and the stately, well manicured digs of the Presidio which dates back to 1776. The Presidio represents the longest operating Army installation in the American West, and California's days as both a Spanish colony and territory of Mexico. A vintage fire truck by The Cannery near Fisherman's Wharf, is another tour in historic, lively San Francisco. This interesting part of town -- near fabled Golden Gate Bridge -- reflects the spirit of the city: a pleasing urban suburban mix with plenty of bars, restaurants, coffee shops, and parks. We savored it all, with a leisurely look at the elegant Palace of Fine Arts. WE STOPPED beneath the much photographed Golden Gate Bridge, while listening to the van's varied soundtrack including Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and a mix of other iconic singers. Our group of six sang along with Joplin's "Mercedes Benz," then Roger Miller's "King of the Road" and the original Andrews Sisters' "Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy." Wayne Newton, the aging king of the fabled Las Vegas strip, made a guest appearance with a couple tunes. Remember "Danke Schoen"? We did. Japan Center is symbolic of what gives San Diego its international feel. So we could take photos, our amiable driver Andrew drove patiently past the home of Jimi Hendrix twice, pausing for photos at the intersection of Haight and Ashbury streets, “The Haight” still exudes vibes of the 1960s counterculture and its revolutionary spirit. Andrew described the culture then and now, noting vintage clothes shops, music stores, pop posters and body piercing shops. Although the Summer of Love ended decades ago, Haight-Ashbury has morphed into an eye-catching melting pot of hippies, hipsters, and professionals. As we drove through its streets, we stepped back in time. Grateful Dead tunes emphasized our time travel. SOON, ANDREW cautiously turned down Lombard Street, that famously crooked avenue. He skillfully maneuvered eight hairpin turns and pointed out beautifully landscaped flowerbeds. Alfred, both driver and guide, has a keen sense of humor and provided plenty of amusing anecdotes, stops for photographs and places to use the bathroom. Between soundtracks, he regaled us with tales of the key players in San Francisco's hippie days. A day care group trudges up a hill in a "buddy rope" which helps keep them together and navigate the slopes. THE CITY has been home to scores of the rich, famous and notorious. Andrew had insights into Patty Hearst, and her time in San Francisco. Like any good tour guide, he was interested in our questions and take on things, including the town's mansions, neighborhoods and its impact on us. He knew the childhood home of Mel Blanc, that unforgettable voice of Bugs Bunny and dozens of other cartoon characters. He pointed out two homes inhabited at various times by actor Nicholas Cage. He explained the city's evolution and its changing neighborhoods, pointing out that stately homes in now gentrified neighborhoods have replaced bawdy pockets of cheap rent. The draw for young folks was excitement, the counterculture's promise of "drug, sex and rock 'n' roll." It still has an appeal. If you look closely, you'll see a blue heron in the center tree, in a much loved oasis, center stage in Golden Gate Park. WE STOPPED in the middle of Golden Gate Park to admire a blue heron, nesting above the lake -- a wonderful sight in a city of 875,000 people. It was fun, too, to be noticed in the classic, colorfully painted VW van, Love Tours' symbol. People often flashed us the peace sign, and we were photographed by at least a dozen other tourists. The advertising gimmick of the colorful VW van is an effective marketing tool for a happy, entertaining half-day in a fascinating, ever changing city. More information for a delightful San Francisco tour option. Five-star fun. www.sanfranciscolovetours.com And for bargains in the city and 14 other American destinations, we recommend: www.cityPASS.com A house for Yellowstone National Park workers hits the river near Gardiner, Montana, now off limits. UP NEXT: Montana and Yellowstone National Park are faced with tremendous flood damage due to heavy rainfall and hot temperatures which have forced snow from the mountains in terrifying record-breaking river water levels. Yellowstone has closed all five of its gates to tourists, evacuating visitors and cancelling reservations. This is a first in the park's 150 years. The north part of the park may not be reopened until much later but workers are struggling with other entrances. We're traveling through that part of the world right now, so we'll take you there. Remember to explore, learn, and live and catch us weekly for an update on nature, travel, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link.
- Ketchikan catch-up: eagles, waterfalls and a smuggling bordello
Ketchikan's Creek Street is as bustling now, differently than in the 1930s when booze and brothels were the order of the day. Now, it's tourism, and the street is lined with shops, galleries and cafes. CRUIN'S TOUR: STORIES, SIGHTS, SOARING EAGLES, TOTEM POLES AND GALLERIES Totem poles in Ketchikan tell sacred stories. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU MAY think you know Ketchikan, if you've been in and out on a cruise ship to take a half-day tour. But you haven't really seen this lovely "first" Alaskan town unless you've toured it with a jovial transplanted Scotsman named Cruin MacGriogair. Since it was our fifth visit, we were looking for something new and found this charming tour guide, woodcarver, philosopher on line. He met us dressed in a traditional kilt -- he's a big guy, so it's a big kilt -- and began a lively tour of this 1880s village turned bustling tourist spot. This stunning scenery is what attracted Cruin and enticed him from his native Scotland. Bruce Keller and Cruin MacGriogair talk history. The town gets its "first" moniker because it is set at the southernmost entrance to Alaska's famed Inside Passage -- network of waterways that snake through some of the world's most stunning wilderness. It's the "first" town most tourists see on their trek into our 49th state. SO WHY DID did MacGriogair trade pastoral Edinburgh, Scotland, for the rugged beauty of Ketchikan? "Why? Just look at this," he says, sweeping his hand affectionately across the horizon. "Beauty everywhere." On that note, we set off for Cruin's take on the town's most famous Creek Street. He pointed out a sign for "Married Man's Trail," where men could sneak along a woodsy trail to reach the brothels on Creek Street below undetected. Cruin displayed his custom made tools, with which he carves and creates one-of-a-kind art. Brothels were big business with 30 operating between 1903 and the 1953 closure of the infamous red light district. Its most famous madam, Dolly, operated until then and is vividly remembered in Dolly's House and Museum, complete with red satin curtains, appropriate for a red light district. CRUIN TOLD TALES of a hidden trap door through which booze boxes were smuggled into boats on the river below, and through which partiers could escape during raids. Because a "Cruin tour" is custom designed, this amiable guide will stop for whatever piques your fancy. Here, he pulled over so we could photograph this beautiful bald eagle on a drive outside town. We drove both ends of the town and beyond, traveling the Tongass Highway-- to the controversial new cruise ship dock (large ships pay less here, docking a few kilometers from the city) to the other end of town with beautiful trees and abundant bird life. He stopped so we could photograph a bald eagle and answered questions about berry bushes and trees, showing knowledge and enthusiasm for his chosen home. THE PLACE has a wild feel, with both fishing and timber still a large part of the economy. Tourism, of course, is the third side of Ketchikan's economic triangle. Cruin's delightful tour is custom designed. The visitor tells him what he wants to see. We said "take us off the beaten track," and he did, with history, art, dining and shopping tips. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller at a "Cruin stop." Our ship was among three that recent day, when the town's 6,000 people are visited by thousands of tourists departing ships to spend their day seeing the sights and shopping. NEARLY ALL come away with a package of salmon, since Ketchikan is the world's salmon capital. At the salmon industry's peak in the 1930s, there were 13 canneries exporting tens of thousands of pounds of salmon. WHAT GIVES the town its name? Ketchikan comes from the Tlingit name for the creek, Kitschk-hin, which likely means "the river belonging to Kitschk." We learned of other possible meanings, including my favorite: "Thundering Wings of an Eagle." Cruin also emphasized that native peoples inhabited the area for centuries before its 1886 settlement, which explains the town's fascination with Native American artifacts and totem poles, both on display throughout town. A skilled carver himself, Cruin makes his own tools, so he knows the painstaking way in which totems are created. He also shared insight into the word "totem.” It's a reference to a guardian, ancestral being, or a supernatural spirit, and can also symbolize significant events. The Tlingit call the totem pole "kooteeyaa,” meaning "people of the other side.” THE TOWN'S colorful and continually changing totem poles tell the history of its people through these eye-catching, wooden sculptures. We'd seen Totem Bright State Historical Park with its extensive totem collection so we asked Cruin to show us his town's unique poles instead. With his wife Elizabeth, of native descent, he's studied many Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian totem poles. Some are under restoration, others recently preserved, a few need work and the town plans to see that done, Cruin said. Crazy Wolf Studio offers unique masks, authentic glass and carved wooden art and a fine selection of tasteful souvenirs. WE'D EARLIER toured nearby Misty Fiords National Monument, a glacier-carved wilderness with snowcapped mountains, waterfalls and salmon spawning streams. It's fun to see once but you'll find a more vivid insider's tour through Cruin's own stories and close-up bird, forest and nature stops. A beautiful sculptural bear commands center stage at Ketchikan's Tongass Historical Museum . WE RECOMMEND a stop at Totem Heritage Center, a downtown museum that houses precious 19th-century totem poles collected and preserved with permission from the Alaska Native elders, and Saxman Totem Park, home to 25 totems -- well done, authentic replicas of original poles found left in abandoned villages as Native Alaskans moved into more populated cities. And do ask Cruin to take you to his favorite gallery, Crazy Wolf Studio, where native American artist Ken Decker's exquisite work is on view. It's a museum quality collection of masks, beadwork, glass and carvings, plus for the budget minded, beautiful native inspired notecards, vivid prints and elegant dream catchers. www.ktn-ak.us www.crazywolfstudio.com www.ketchikantours.biz A conductor brings the train in aboard the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, with spectacular scenery. UP NEXT: We're north -- in Alaska, with highlights of several days spent there recently. Next up, we ride the chilly rails into Yukon territory aboard one of the world's most exciting trains. Then we're whale watching in Juneau, for humpbacks, orcas and a bevy of dolphins. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at nature, adventure, travel, family and the arts. Please follow us and share the link: www.whereiscookie.com
- Whale of a time awaits in remote, breezy, gorgeous waters of Juneau
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers aboard a Juneau Tours and Whale Watch vessel. The well run company is family owned and prides itself in personalized service -- and whale viewing! Juneau's harbor has a pastoral feel, almost painting-like. The surrounding forest and scenery are spectacular. ORCAS, HUMPBACKS, DOLPHINS, EAGLES, PLUS WILD, UNTAMED SCENERY AWAIT WITH JUNEAU WHALE WATCH Yes, it's in the distance, but it's a definite whale sighting. The boat will pull slowly closer. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SOME OF the best whale watching in the world happens off the North American continent in the chilly, lively waters of Juneau, Alaska. Alaska's capital city is thriving again and the whale business is back. After a couple rough financial years -- without the usual tourism that feeds the year's economy during three busy summer months -- tours are booking and folks are cruising again. The scenery around Juneau is vast and varied. A bird's eye view aboard Radiance of the Seas. The best whale tour we've found in several trips is with Juneau Tours and Whale Watch. Veteran photographer Bruce Keller is a regular on Alaska's waters. This time he chose Royal Caribbean's newly renovated Radiance of the Seas. We sailed into the pretty port aboard Royal Caribbean's graceful Radiance of the Seas, recently refurbished to the tune of multi-millions, and by far the most spiffy ship in the harbor. We like Royal for its well designed Alaska itinerary, which hits the high spots with ample port time: Ketchikan, Skagway, Juneau and the Inside Passage for a spectacular day of viewing. Juneau Tours works with Royal Caribbean, which courts family-owned and operated businesses such as Juneau Tours. The business was started nearly two decades ago by an ambitious couple from Hawaii. Many of its employees have been with the company for years and everyone is pleasant and knowledgeable -- from the bus driver who greets you and gives commentary from the ship to the pier, to the deck hands and naturalist guides. We've met the same entertaining guides a couple years apart -- enthusiastic fellows who know and love the water and wildlife in it. We enjoyed their lively commentary as they pointed out dozens of beautiful, high-flying bald eagles and playful dolphins skipping along the boat. Plan to spend some time driving to the harbor because Juneau is a big place. Because of its vastness, it takes a while to get around. But you're guaranteed two-plus hours of on-the-water whale watching for humpbacks and orcas, sea lions, dolphins, bald eagles, and other wildlife. We met several of the stars of Auke Bay, feasting in their summer feeding grounds – whales Sacha, Flame and several others. Our guides recognized the whales because of the markings on their flukes -- each one unique to the individual whale. The boat is roomy, the windows large and perfect for viewing. Passengers may also go on deck. The company's naturalist guides offer engaging commentary and fascinating whale facts. WE WERE thrilled to see whales breaching. Scientists suspect humpback whales breach and slap their fins and flukes as a way of communicating. Our guides explained that the slapping sounds also send messages to other whales. The company's comfy, customized boats offer panoramic views for optimal whale watching even if you don't want to venture out on deck. BECAUSE YOU are so near one of the world's most famous glaciers, you have an opportunity to stop at Mendenhall Glacier. The tour is arranged with several buses back to your ship or town center, allowing for as little or as much time one wants for glacier viewing. If you haven't seen been face to face with Mendenhall Glacier, it's an easy add-on to the whale watch trip. The glacier is a a 1,500 square mile remnant of the last ice age, cradled high in the mountains and an extra hour's journey but well worth it. “Amazing!” We heard that over-worked adjective many times as we hiked with new friends to Nugget Falls, with its bird's eye views of the glacier. Mendenhall Glacier is a wondrous sight. Even with global warming, it is still miles long. Alaska has more bald eagles than any other state in the union -- up to 25,000. This one performed for our boat. A nicely designed visitor's center gives an overview of glaciers and this close-by one in particular. Mendenhall is perhaps the most accessible glaciers in North America, just 12 miles from downtown Juneau and a few minutes from the airport. It's large -- like everything in Juneau -- a half-mile wide, with ice as deep as 1,800 feet. And it's 13.6 miles long. WE'RE PROUD to recommend Juneau Tours and Whale Watch, which has made a name for itself in southeast Alaska and around the globe. The hands-on approach and joy in their work is obvious, making the outfit a pleasure to travel with, share and enjoy. And consider cruising -- the only way you'll see four distinct parts of this huge 49th state in a week's time. info@juneautours.com ; 1 844-494-2537. royalcaribbean.com ; reservations 866 562-7625 Tuacahn Center for the Arts is a magical place with a range of theater productions in a state-of-the-art amphitheater in Padre Canyon. UP NEXT : Utah's Tuacahn Center for the Arts in Ivins, Utah, is a delightful discovery. We'd never been to this marvelous treasure of a performing arts center near St. George, Utah. So this year was our time for a visit. We were doing stories and taking photos near Zion National Park when we overheard fellow tourists talking about Tuacahn. We went on line and found a gem of a theater set in a beautiful canyon near Ivins, in the mouth of Padre Canyon. A first-rate docket of Broadway shows is on tap, and there are activities year-round at this magical place. www.tuacahn.org/
- Utah's Tuacahn: Spectacular performing arts space in natural setting
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers marvel at the spectacular view from Utah's Tuacahn. THEATER LOVING ROAD TRIPPERS DELIGHT IN DISCOVERY OF A SPLENDID AMPHITHEATER IN UTAH'S RED ROCKS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Tuacahn Center for the Arts "Mary Poppins" sets take a whimsical look at London. This is one of several lovely designs. Also included are a park, bank, children's bedroom and other places in the story. WE HAD no idea such a wondrous place existed in the remote canyonland near St. George, Utah. It's called Tuacahn.Everyone has heard of Zion National Park, and most veteran road-trippers have visited St. George. But we were new to a marvelous discovery during this year's auto journey from San Diego to our place in rural Montana. Some say the name "Tuacahn" comes from a Mayan word meaning "Canyon of the Gods." It couldn't be more fitting. For located in the mouth of the Padre Canyon, adjacent to Snow Canyon State Park, in Ivins, Utah, it's a sight to behold. Keller and Cookie at intermission. An artful display of photos from the current season gives the full house options for future tickets. TUACAHN IS part nature preserve, part performing arts center, and total magic. Several visionary people were instrumental in its founding, including Utah playwright Douglas C. Stewart and philanthropist Hyrum W. Smith. They and others planned the creation of a setting to showcase a play about the founding of the southern part of their state. Hyrum Smith, Tuacahn philanthropist, had a vision to merge nature with performing arts. THE PARTNERS' VISION was to create a space the people of Utah could enjoy. The venue would showcase nature's beauty with the added enticement of first-rate performance. The patrons' love of nature and theater combine artfully in Tuacahn where we recently saw a delightful production of "Mary Poppins." It was Broadway quality -- from technical wizardry which floated Mary across the sky, to beautifully designed sets and costumes, spirited choreography and top talent including a well tuned orchestra. THE PLACE was christened in 1995 when Tuacahn's debut performance. "Utah!" danced its way across the red rocks and into the hearts of the people. Amphitheatre seats are comfortable and seating is designed so there are no obstructed views. But after four years telling the story of the area's ancient inhabitants and pioneer settlers, Tuacahn's board of directors shifted the strategy to a repertory season of popular shows. The successful result is a showcase of several productions in a setting which itself is a natural amphitheater. WRITERS HAVE compared the evolution of this natural wonder to the physical building of Tuacahn Center for the Arts. Centuries of pounding heat and relentless desert rains created the canyon land. Wrote one reviewer, "Just as the land has been shaped, the center was molded by winds of change and the power of dreams." In the play's final scene, Mary Poppins takes to the sky, her mission accomplished (far right.) Donors can remember friends or family in tasteful stones by the lyrical waters. In foreground: Neil Starkenberg as Bert, Gail Bennett as Mary Poppins, sing "A Spoonful of Sugar." Real estate baron and state senator Orval Hafen was a major player, too. The original owner of Padre Canyon enthusiastically endorsed the concept. Adding his own doseof drive and ambition was entrepreneur, arts promoter and producer Doug Stewart who helped propel the mission. It was a daunting dream that many thought impossible, but with this quartet of creative force it blossomed into a flourishing orchestra of reality. Sold out shows, happy families, first-rate talents tell the tale of Tuacahn and confirm that an inspired vision can come true with the right combination of imaginative people, drive and money. Artistic director Scott S. Anderson carries on the mission of creative performance art against a naturally theatrical backdrop. The season is in repertory with "Mary Poppins," "Wonderland," and "Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat" playing into late October. "The Buddy Holly Story" runs in the mix until Aug. 13. "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer" promises family enjoyment Nov. 25-Dec. 22. Tuacahn's venues include the 2,000-seat amphitheatre and a 328-seat indoor theater where the holiday show is staged, a black box theater, dance studio, costume and scene shops and the campus of Tuacahn High School for the Arts. The venue also produces a spring and fall concert series, and Christmas in the Canyon featuring a live-action recreation of the nativity called the "Festival of Lights" with spectacular holiday lights and decorations. ACTOR GAIL Bennett and other Actors Equity performers have garnered national attention, as has the venue itself. Bennett won awards for her leading roles in "My Fair Lady," "Kiss Me Kate," "The Sound of Music" and many productions on Broadway, at Hollywood Bowl and in other major venues. You may think you've gone down the rabbit hole as you explore this gorgeous venue -- truly a "wonderland" of its own. More info or tickets: tuacahn.org ; box office 800 746-9882; 1100 Tuacahn Drive, Ivins, Utah 84738 Christene "Cookie" Meyers rests and savors during a visit to "Immersive Van Gogh." UP NEXT : Van Gogh Immersion.Another artfully done surprise presents itself on our road trip. The artfully done installation, "Immersive Van Gogh," is attracting viewers across the nation in several cities. We check out the original exhibit in Las Vegas. It's a wondrous merging of technology, storytelling, animation and many of Vincent's paintings. We found it captivating and will share in our next feature. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, family, nature and more. www.whereiscookie.com ; VanGoghVegas.com
- Van Gogh immersion yields lavish, hypnotic multi-media experience
Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh's life and art come to life in a mesmerizing show in Las Vegas. The show gracefully weaves state-of-the-art technology, lights, music and imagery. VIEWERS FEEL THE SPIRIT OF FAMED PAINTER WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY, ANIMATION, MUSIC, HYPNOTIZING LANDSCAPES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene Meyers, left, and Bruce Keller, savor their souvenirs from a magical morning at "Immersive Van Gogh." Several cities are hosting the imaginative production. Our travel-writing duo saw the original, in Las Vegas. AN IMAGINATIVE look into the life and times of Vincent Van Gogh is getting raves in Las Vegas as it plays to enthusiastic international crowds. The unique show has garnered kudos in 15 other American cities, but the "Vegas version" is the original. The "Immersive Van Gogh" exhibit begins with your ticket purchase -- easy, on line. A couple options are available beginning at $38 if you shop around on the web for bargains. Our tickets were "VIP" which included a sunflower pillow for sitting on one of the comfy benches, a lovely poster and a chance to correspond with Vincent himself (yes, through cyber wizardry, he answers your note.) WE ENTERED the magical space at The Shops at Crystals, on the third floor, right in the middle of the famed Las Vegas Strip, next to Aria. A huge room has been transformed to an immersive digital art museum. The trendy show is captivating audiences in Las Vegas, just as it has worldwide, from Tokyo to Paris, Atlanta to Bordeaux. Toronto even staged a drive-in exhibit as each city puts its unique and special spin on the tormented genius. We happily joined the ranks enjoying "Immersive Van Gogh," in this breathtaking Las Vegas version. Only a few dozen people are allowed into the huge exhibit space so one may sit, stand or move around without being crowded, enjoying a 360-degree experience. It evolves in pleasant rhythm, accompanied by an enchanting musical score including Handel, Schubert and many other composers. The soothing musical arrangements and several original compositions are cleverly rendered by Luca Longobardi, who did a beautiful job integrating the music with flowing landscapes, portraits and other familiar Van Gogh works. You'll see the famous bed painting and many of the works by the tormented Dutch painter who sold only a single painting in his life before he died at age 37. Everyone knows the sorrow, but this experience honors his brilliance. EVEN SO, THE SHOW has a wistful, sometimes melancholy feel as large-scale moving images are projected onto walls, ceilings, and floors in the space. The suffering in his self-portraits is evident. It's all so mesmerizing we stayed for part of another show -- which the audience is encouraged to do. The artful design is by the award-winning team of "Atelier des Lumieres" in Paris, which viewers may recognize for the digital art show featured in Netflix’s "Emily in Paris." Imagination, technology and the original work of Van Gogh are set to an exciting musical score. We chose to sit on two different benches in two parts of the space to watch for an hour more than 500,000 cubic feet of projections. All the iconic van Gogh works are in the spotlight, including The Potato Eaters (1885), Starry Night (1889), Sunflowers (1888), and The Bedroom (1889). Large-scale digital animations of the prolific painter’s work come to life with Longobardi's passionate musical choices -- including, appropriately, opera befitting the composer's Italian heritage. Said my partner, photographer Bruce Keller, "This is a magnificent artistic effort worthy of a brilliant man who took a path less traveled and failed to achieve the fame he deserved in his lifetime." Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoys the whimsical, moving immersive Van Gogh show in Las Vegas. SEVERAL DOZEN of Van Gogh's post-impressionist sunflowers, perhaps his greatest masterpieces. These are highlights in the show, truly hypnotizing as they play a prominent role in this exquisite and powerful exhibition. The show is running or will play in 29 U.S. cities; several other cities have closed the show after successful shorter runs. Its an imaginative telling of Van Gogh's story, reminding of those 1970s Pink Floyd laser light shows at a planetarium. Truly it is a trip back in time with a futuristic portrayal of the tortured Dutch painter, considered to be among the greatest painters of all time -- right along with Rembrandt van Rijn. Despite selling only that single artwork in his frustrating career, Van Gogh became -- in the century after his death -- perhaps the most recognized painter of all time. The show celebrates his art in joyous fashion, yet the viewer feels a tinge of melancholy in knowing that depression eventually overcame the artist. Photographer Bruce Keller is happy after a morning with Van Gogh. MY FAVORITE segments capsulized his two years in Paris from 1886 to February 1888, when he left for Arles. The excitement and joy are felt in this Paris time, which critics believe laid the foundation for his unique style, exposing him to famed impressionists Monet and Pissarro. Emmy Award-winning and Tony Award-nominated designer David Korins, known for his set designs featured in Broadway hits such as "Hamilton" and "Dear Evan Hansen," introduced elements he considers "experimental" in transforming Lighthouse Las Vegas into such an imaginative venue. It's good entertainment for anyone, but thrilling for those of us with a passion for art and art museums. For more information or to book: www.vangoghvegas.com/ Singing, dancing, cowboys and saloon girls await as the colorful story of Buffalo Bill Cody and friends performs in the town named for the famed showman. The well done, spirited review features top musical talent and fun stories. UP NEXT : A spectacular Wild West revue is performing several nights a week in Cody, Wyoming, and it's a top-quality production. We saw it recently, with an appreciative crowd, and were pleasantly pleased at the dancing, singing, storytelling, costumes and humor. It's part history, part pure fun and terrific entertainment. Rocky Mountain Dance Company does a whiz-bang job. More next week, and meanwhile remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- Free walking tours offer value and a terrific way to know a city quickly
Luiz, our fine Brazilian born guide in Porto, Portugal, took us around the city to its hidden corners as well as exploring its famous bridges, squares and plazas. He was lively, smart and well tipped. FUN WAY TO HIT THE HIGH SPOTS, DISCOVER A NEW PLACE, MAKE FRIENDS, LEARN HISTORY, ART, CULTURE A free walking tour is a great way to get a sampling of how people live. Note patio plants and laundry drying. Few Europeans have clothes dryers. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER This lively Portuguese guide is a singer, art history major and a wonderful ambassador for her country and her native Lisbon . WALKING TOURS are a wonderful way to get a quick fix on a new place. They're growing in popularity around the world. We've tried a dozen of them in seven countries, and enjoyed three more on this latest foray which concentrated on southern Europe. The enticement of a "free tour" is appealing to many travelers, when a group tour booked through a cruise line or travel agency averages $50 to $100-plus per person, depending on the length. Private tours for a couple can surpass several hundred dollars. So for adventuresome folks such as the two of us, and people trying to avoid breaking the bank, a "free" tour is a fine alternative. This shop window was a photo stop on a Barcelona free tour . WE APPRECIATE the fact that the guides are always articulate, well educated and have a sense of humor. They're helpful and eager to give directions, pointers and advice on ATM machines, shopping and dining. "Free" tours are not really free if you have a conscience. You'll want to tip at least $12 or $15 per person -- about the same equivalent in Euros. That's not much for a two or three-hour crash course in history, art, architecture, music, food, hotels, parks and gardens. "Free" walking tours started in Berlin in 2004 and have spread to over 40 cities around the world, including nearly every major tourist destination in Europe (Barcelona has several of the best), in most major U.S. cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, in South American capitals, and in Asia, where free tours are offered in Seoul, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Tokyo, Istanbul, Shanghai and Dubai. They're not a passing fad from the on-line reviews and international enthusiasm. Free tours are here to stay. OF THE MANY ways we explore a new city, we find a free tour combined with a half-day "hop on and hop off" bus tour make a perfect introduction to a new town. We even repeat this pattern in cities we've visited multiple times -- such as Barcelona, Paris and Amsterdam. For a quick fix on a new place, nothing beats a free walking tour. The tours usually start in a central, well known part of the town -- A tour in Victoria, B.C., pointed out this unique tea shop where we returned on our own next day. Dam Square in Amsterdam or San Marco Piazza in Venice, for instance. From there, you set off to visit landmarks and get tips on history: battles, marriages, mutinies and more. You listen to enthusiastic, well educated guides share facts and myths about the town they love and often grew up in. You find places you'd like to revisit -- so you can easily do so. You set off on a lively tour of discovery, finding hidden gems only locals know. Be prepared to walk fast: free tours cover a lot of ground, enriching perceptions of a city in a few busy hours. The Colosseum in Rome is a stop of most free walking tours. A free tour in Tuscany included a wine cellar tour with optional wine tasting for a small fee. FREE TOURS are one way savvy travelers see the world. From booking a packaged tour months in advance with travel guru Rick Steves, to picking up a half-day tour the night before, travelers find myriad options to tour -- from buses to bicycles, rickshaws to Segways. While each mode has its advantages, we prefer a walking tour. The main reason is because the worry and strain are removed. You're with a trusted guide, you walk with others, you feel safe while being informed. You also get gentle exercise -- and tips on ways to make up for that at local eateries, ice cream shops, bakeries and specialty restaurants. You get more bang for your buck -- while meeting other travelers. We've made friends on walking tours and contacts with people we've traveled with again. We've also noticed that single travelers like walking tours because they make connections with other people and find the trip less lonely. Language is never a problem, either. We speak Berlitz French, Spanish, Dutch and Portuguese, but we've always found English speaking guides in the reservation process. You'll also see an option for free tours in the local language -- so if you're daring, give that a try. (We've taken French speaking tours in Paris and fared well with our college French.) We've never met a European guide who didn't speak fluent English. Our "Freedam" tour guide in Amsterdam was fluent in several languages, including his native Italian. A lively history buff and art major guide (in far right corner) was our excellent free tour host for a free tour in Lisbon. (Cookie and Keller behind her.) TO PREPARE , we share a backpack to take a light jacket or sweater, a couple bottles of water, protein bars, hats and sun screens. We try to get a good night's sleep before a tour because you'll get a workout. The guides try to cover optimum ground in three or four hours. The routes are efficiently planned to include major sights, learn about the history and culture, with time for questions and stops for quick shopping if you ask. The group may go ahead, but the guide will tell you where to meet next. All our guides have been helpful in showing us where to find a rest room or grab a quick snack if we've forgotten to bring one. They're either natives of the city or have lived there long enough to be considered so. They've done copious research, visited museums and galleries, know who's playing at the concert halls and share anecdotes along with bits of history. Our guides have been jovial and fun to listen to, with a sense of humor and a knack for answering questions with precision. That's why tipping is important. These guides work hard to give us an enriching experience, with courtesy, patience and insider tips. We've even had guides make dinner and show reservations for us and take us to an ATM that didn't charge an exorbitant processing fee. SO DON'T forget to tip. And tell your friends. www.barcelonaturisme.com www.visitbarcelona.com www.catalunya.com www.freetour.com ; www.freedamtours.com www.freetoursbyfoot.com ; www.visitbarcelona.com www.internationalgreeter.org www.portocvb.com www.visitlisboa.com A pair of brilliant actors -- Bryan Banville and Luke Harvey Jacobs -- bring "The Mystery of Irma Vep" to San Diego. BEST BET: I first saw (and loved) "The Mystery of Irma Vep" in 1985 in New York City. Charles Ludlam's witty, wacky, fast-paced comedy is alive and well at San Diego's Diversionary Theatre through Dec. 24. It's worth a trip to southern California for the holiday cheer and laughter it provides. Two accomplished actors -- Bryan Banville and Luke Harvey Jacobs -- play a string of over-the-top characters in this crazy parody of Victorian Gothic themes and Alfred Hitchcock's "Rebecca." Think farce, exaggerated facial expressions, split-second costume changes and clever staging. Mix it up with a peg leg, a wolf, a vampire and audience participation for a hefty helping of queer, high-camp humor deftly directed by Matt M Morrow and Allison Spratt Pearce. More fun than a sleigh ride, sing-along or Santa visit. Put this in your Christmas stocking and don your gay apparel . 619 220-0097. diversionary.org Famed Portuguese actor Joao Reis narrates a beautiful music, light, energy and color show called "Spiritus." UP NEXT: Immersive shows are the trend -- from "Nutcracker" and the life of Vincent Van Gogh in Las Vegas to a thrilling multi-media show in Portugal celebrating classical music, nature and the world of the spirit. It's called "Spiritus," and it should put you in the spirit for the holidays. Everything is aglow and over the top with lights, and wonder at Clerigos Church, the famed Portuguese house of worship with its iconic tower. We share an insider's look at this inventive multi-media show in a beautiful sanctuary. So beam yourself to Porto and fasten your multi-media seatbelts as we share a trendy, immersive show with full lights, visuals and more. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the performing arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- A general's dream: When and If' sails smoothly into immortality
When and If is a beautiful sailing vessel combining the best characteristics of a racing boat with the comforts of a sturdy yacht built for pleasure and big enough for a family's comfort. Below, with wind in their hair, Christene "Cookie" Meyers" and Bruce Keller enjoy a sail. MAJESTIC SAILING YACHT IS A WAR HERO'S BEAUTIFULLY DESIGNED DREAM STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN WORLD War II was in its full brutal fury, a much decorated general dreamed about a peaceful time when he could sail the world's waters. Hoisting the sails for a gorgeous sunset ride. Then Colonel George S. Patton shared his idea for a sleek yet comfortable yacht with famous boat builder John Alden. His clever and artistic friend, known for his beautiful designs, was up to the challenge. Thus the yacht When and If was commissioned by the internationally known American war hero. His luxurious private yacht was built that same year -- 1939 -- by boatbuilder F.F. Pendleton in Wiscasset, Maine. Its name comes from Patton's hope to sail the world "when" the war ended and "if" he survived. Sitting comfortably under When and If's sails, a couple from Portugal enjoys a leisurely sail and a beautiful sunset off Key West. WE RECENTLY set sail on her, relaxing on comfy seat cushions on the vessel's handsome and sturdy, double planked mahogany. Black locust frames and an oak keel enhance the comfort on this smooth-sailing vessel enjoyed for its thoughtful detail by lucky passengers, including my lifelong sailing partner, Bruce Keller. His enthusiastic take: "When and If is unique -- a thoughtfully adventuresome notion." Photographer Keller knows his way around a sail boat and has sailed many of the world's seas, as Patton hoped to. "The general had a dream and knew the best builder to help make it come true. Now it lives on long after him." True enough. Patton, who died in 1945, sailed the east coast of the United States in his treasured boat, but never did take his beloved When And If on the world cruise he imagined. But he and his wife did sail her up and down the East Coast and on Chesapeake Bay. The general had high praise for designer Alden. When and If is his show piece in a long list of creations made by this renowned builder of elite racing schooners. Patton said Alden's crafts "retained both beauty and style while winning premier ocean races of the time." George and Beatrice Patton aboard When and If on Chesapeake Bay. AT THE TIME of its conception, in 1939, When and If was remarkable for its racing capabilities and for its comfortable and safe features. Our captain said she sometimes hosts nearly three dozen people for gatherings of friends and family. One such event happened the day after our sunset cruise (more on that later.) Although our voyage was just hours long, When and If is equipped for the long voyage which Patton hoped to take. PATTON DIED in a military hospital in Germany, of a blood clot following a horrific auto accident which left him partially paralyzed. But despite the general's untimely death in 1945, the boat he imagined took on a new life. His dream boat attained the immortality that escaped him. While Patton is considered one of the most brilliant military strategists of all time, his When and If is considered a brilliantly constructed vessel. When and If 's galley is more spacious than most sailing vessels, with a large sink, stoves, storage and prep space. It boasts six comfy cabins for up to six adult guests. As a military leader, Patton produced more results in less time, with fewer casualties than any other general during his WWII Army years. Similarly, When and If has won accolades from sailors and celebrities, including longtime CBS anchor and famed broadcast journalist Walter Cronkite, a devoted sailor who praised its combination of sleekness and comfort. TODAY, THE POPULAR yacht is used for parties and celebrations. During our visit it was booked for a memorial service and burial at sea for a much loved resident of Key West. The word yacht comes from the Dutch, and originally meant light and smooth sailing. Here is When and If at sunset. The yacht has a colorful "post Patton" history. She remained in the family until 1972 when the general’s nephew, Neal Ayer, made a gift of the vessel to the Landmark School in Prides Crossing, Massachusetts. She was the center piece of a sail training program for dyslexic children until November of 1990 when a storm broke her mooring line broke and drove her onto the rocks. When and If is kept in immaculate condition in Key West, and can be booked for a sail or celebration. Although the damage was extensive, the structural integrity of the ship was unaffected. Soon, she attracted a sailing buff who purchased her. She remained in private ownership, and over the next three years was painstakingly restored. She was was re-launched to great fanfare in 1994 when keynote speaker for the celebration was sailor-journalist Cronkite. He praised both her strength as well as the superior work of Shipwrights Gannon and Benjamin in Vineyard Haven, Mass., the yard that brought her back to life. Fast forward. In 2013,When and If was purchased and restored anew by Doug Hazlitt, who eyed the boat for her “strength and elegance.” A sleek, modern catamaran is ideal for enjoying San Francisco with its wonderful sights. Here, we pass under the Golden Gate bridge. She was then purchased by Captain Seth Salzmann in 2015, and was part of Tall Ships Festivals in 2015, 2016, and 2017. The colorful travel that eluded Patton included When and If's journeys with Sail Training International. She made it to Bermuda, Boston and on to all corners of the Canadian Maritimes. Perhaps Patton is smiling down from his crow's nest in the sky. To book or inquire about Key West or this unique yacht: https://fla-keys.com/key-west/ www.sailwhenandif.com UP NEXT: While we're in a sailing mood, come aboard Adventure Cat, and see San Francisco as you never have before. She's a sleek, modern catamaran ideal for a bird's eye view of San Francisco Bay. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on sailing, travel, family, nature, art and more: www.whereiscookie.com
- San Francisco sail: Adventure Cat is purr-fect way to see the bay
Adventure Cat is a beautifully designed, smooth sailing vessel available for a variety of sailings. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Enjoying the sea breeze, two of our "catamaran companions" on a unique sailing trip in San Francisco. A SAIL like you've never had before. That's the promise that enticed us to book a relaxing afternoon with Adventure Cruises on a recent San Francisco visit. What a way to see the bay! As veteran Bay Area visitors and veteran sailors, we always look for something new -- on the water, if possible. San Francisco from Adventure Cat at night, its lights aglow. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller aboard Venture Cat on a brisk, sunny sail. We found it in this adventure, which offers an exhilarating, fast, thrilling catamaran ride across the occasionally choppy waters of San Francisco Bay. In this sleek catamaran, we were seldom aware of the waves. Nice! ADVENTURE CAT offers a variety of sail adventures: private charters for a special party or celebration, sunset sails, bay sails and city lights. The spacious catamarans have a distinctive logo -- a sleek black cat. And a fun blog follows the adventures of the crew and clients. Naturally, a nautically inclined cat is featured. We recommend Adventure Cat for many reasons, including the spacious nature of the catamaran. We joined only a handful of other guests, so we had our run of the boat for custom-made viewing and a stable, safe ride. Nothing like fresh air and occasional waves on the deck -- all right up our alley. But the protection of covering in the cabin is also an option. FOR FAMILIES looking for a sail that both educates and provides fun, or couples seeking a romantic evening out, Adventure Cat is a perfect choice. It was a highlight of this recent San Francisco visit. Our captain made sure we saw the most popular attractions, including the seal lions gathered by the wharf -- complete with sound effects and a distinctive aroma. We didn't see whales -- although friends did the week before -- but we spotted many pelicans, dolphins and the aromatic sea lions. Our sail took us around the infamous prison on Alcatraz Island, before we zipped underneath the Golden Gate Bridge and headed back, all the time admiring the city’s famed skyline as the crew pointed out famous San Francisco landmarks Seals and sea lions at Pier 39, part of the much photographed pastiche of sights greeting sailors who board Adventure Cat. SAFETY is always a concern on boats and the crew makes sure there's no jumping or climbing. Strong netting allows the more daring to experience the feeling of having the waves rushing right under the feet while relaxing in the sun. We were comfortable just luxuriating on our private bench, using our rain coats when the wind whipped up. We did come once inside the protected cabin, which is an option if it's windy. Large viewing windows allow sights of land, sky and water to float by equally visible. Soda, beer and wine are available at the cabin bar. WHAT WE loved most about this sailing catamaran was the quiet ride. No sound of engines once the sails are hoisted -- yet we were impressed with the speed. We didn't need the audio tour, but it is available in seven languages for international guests. As we zipped away from one of the world's most dramatic skylines, we felt the thrill of viewing this exciting city from a unique vantage point. We felt pampered on our almost private sail. A first-rate sail begins with an enthusiastic crew and knowledgeable captain on Adventure Cat. WE CHOSE the 90-minute "Bay Sail," one of several sails offered by this ambitious enterprise which shows off this iconic bay from a prime vantage point. We had our run of the boat for a generous 105 minutes. We didn't dare to gild the lily, but the jovial crew urged adventuresome sailors to test the expansive deck netting as a trampoline. No takers. But a couple who joined our small, pleasant group spent the entire sail relaxing there and cuddling. "Cookie and Keller" with Alcatraz behind them. A couple times, it was fun to hear them squeal in delight when they got a spray from the bay's brisk waters. BECAUSE WE tour often and have been on many a sail, we're very aware of service, value and knowledge. We like commentary, and the crew had answers to all our questions. They were both articulate and personable, and know and love their boat and the world of sailing. A catamaran sail on the bay. Good for the spirit. For more info or to book : www.adventurecat.com For getting around in San Francisco, free admission to many attractions: www.citypass.com This meal was an impromptu discovery in northern Spain -- an appealing array of parador snacks -- pizza (born in Italy), asparagus, sweet potato fries with aioli, N/A beer for Keller and a Spanish white wine for Cookie, all served with flair. UP NEXT: Food, glorious food.... All travel, whether near or far, is enhanced by a good meal, tasty snack, hearty breakfast or appealing appetizer. We take you around the world with us to bars and bistros, modest cafes and five-star restaurants. We're not snobs by any means, and some of our most delightful taste treats have been in small, unexpected "finds." Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, dining, cruising, nature, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com Please share links with like-minded friends and family. We appreciate it.
- Spiritus: splendid psychedelic immersion in famous Portuguese chapel
Clerigos Church and its magnificent cathedral host a light-filled wondrous show, "Spiritus." Gorgeous lights highlight windows and offer nature imagery and accentuate the church's large windows and baroque architecture. STEP INSIDE A WORLD OF WONDER, WITH PORTUGAL LIGHT AND SOUND SHOW STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PREPARE TO immerse your senses as you simultaneously celebrate an architectural wonder. This unique opportunity unfolds in a stunning show in an historic Portuguese church, Clerigos. In its sanctuary, "Spiritus" -- an inventive light and sound show -- examines with imagination the connection between man, nature and the heavens. Clerigos Tower aglow at night, a proud Porto landmark. We hurried from a city walking tour as dusk fell, to the lovely Baroque church in the city of Porto. Our "compass" was Clerigos Church with its impressive 75-meter-tall bell tower, the Torre dos Clérigos. As we hurried several blocks from our bus to the show, we could see the tower getting closer. It was fun to observe it from various vantage points and as evening fell and muted clouds blanketed the city. The immense Torre dos Clérigos towers over its surroundings and is a central point on virtually all views of historic Porto. The baroque tower was designed by Italian artist and architect Nicolau Nasoni in the mid-eighteenth century. Famous Clergios Church and Tower are worth a visit. Nasoni lived and worked in Porto for fifty years, designing many beautiful structures in Porto and throughout the north of Portugal. He was a busy man, also creating the loggia on the Porto Cathedral, the Episcopal Palace, Palace of São João Novo, and the Palace of Freixo, all proud landmarks of Porto. As we turned corners and navigated narrow streets and alleys, the tower remained nearly always in view. No wonder it was placed where it is -- on a high point in the city where all eyes are drawn to its magnificence. The small but fascinating museum at Clerigos is enjoyed by Cookie with insights from a docent. The interior of Clerigos Church Clérigos Museum exhibits a collection of sacred art and liturgical objects dating from the 13th to the 20th century. WE HAD tickets in hand -- an advantage in moving through a line at the box office and toward the entrance of this popular production. The queue was long but moved quickly with visitors from around the world. People were quiet and respectful as we entered the cathedral to take our seats. Then a young man with a sonorous voice gave a brief introduction to what we were about to behold. He explained that the innovative multimedia show would "transcend the walls" and promised a spiritual and emotional journey in this lovely and much loved Baroque church. Then the lights dimmed and a wonderous light show appeared. Spiritus is an audiovisual experience, pairing light, music, and architecture in the heart of the church. Created by OCUBO, an internationally known Portuguese art studio, the experience uses its religious location to carry the spectator on a spiritual and emotional journey. The work is inspired by the poem “In the end, the best way to travel is to feel,” by Álvaro de Campos, respected Portuguese poet. One need not be religious to appreciate the splendor. CLERIGOS was built in 1753 and has been a national monument since 1910, much loved by the people of the city. It inspired the urbanization of the city, and is a landmark of the town. It was begun at the request of the Brotherhood of Clerics, with architect Nasoni commissioned to design a bell tower to dominate Porto's landscape. The Clerigos light show, "Spiritus," moves many deeply. It was completed 10 years later, in July of 1763, with the placing of the iron cross on the top, and the image of St. Paul in the niche above the door, its construction was finished. Since 2014, the Church, Tower and House of the Brotherhood are a museum. Do make time to visit it when you book the show. It is small -- just a few rooms -- but filled with antique furniture, sacred art and centuries old liturgical objects Families and couples regularly make a pilgrimage to the tower, climbing the 225 steps to the top. The show and museum add dimension and can also be enjoyed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year's Eve and New Year's Day, too. www.visitporto.travel . www.portocvb.com www.citypasses.eu/en/citytrip-porto/porto-card/ www.porto.travel/clerigos-tower www.torredosclerigos.pt www.porto.travel spiritusporto.com rto.travel › clerigos-tower J efferson McDonald, Matthew McGloin are a hit in Northcoast Rep's "Two Pianos, Four Hands." BEST BET: "2 Pianos, 4 Hands" is a “must see” at Northcoast Repertory Theatre in Solana Beach, Calif. It’s a dazzling love letter to the world's most versatile and difficult instrument. Two gifted musicians deliver classical war horses laced with comedy and pathos. Part slapstick, part highbrow, the show features Jefferson McDonald and Matthew McGloin whose flawless technique was honed in years of study. While their artistry amazes, the show's physical humor and impersonations make it more than a mere concert. Themes honor the hard work a classical career demands, conflicts with parents and coaches, and the challenges of devoting one's life to a passion. In the style of Victor Borge and Anna Russell, the actors weave parody and slapstick with flawless Liszt, Chopin, Beethoven, Bach and Mozart -- with tuneful nods to Rodgers and Hart, Dave Brubeck and Billy Joel. This perfect pitch production hits the high notes while tickling the funny bone -- all on a pair of 88s, through Jan. 1. Tickets at: northcoastrep.org ; 858 481-1055. A colorfully clad Martinique woman prepares a holiday cocktail for us on New Year's Day. Fresh fruit -- delicious! UP NEXT : Holiday time is in full swing as a New Year approaches. We find holidays make a lively time to explore new places, holding old habits dear while making room for new traditions. We'll share favorite places and activities for celebrating the flip of the calendar to 2023. We have a suggestion for our readers, too: How about making a resolution to travel, shake up your routine, broaden your worldly experience, take the trip you've long wanted, make new friends on another continent? Come along, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more at: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the links and consider "following" us officially. It helps our ratings.
- Vegas food tasting tours offer a royal flush of fun, history, yummy bites
A Taste Buzz Food Tour of the Arts District in Las Vegas offered a fun outing for Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. Consider Taste Buzz for a refreshing break from gambling. A happy group of foodies posed in the arts district of Las Vegas on a delightful food tour. TASTE BUZZ FOOD TOURS GIVES A SAMPING OF VEGAS OFF THE BEATEN PATH -- OR ON IT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Soulbelly BBQ offers tasty barbecue, craft beer and live music in an attractive space. IF YOU LOVE Las Vegas -- (count me in) but need an occasional break from the casinos, gambling and glitter, here's a winner of a tour. Taste Buzz Food Tours offers three unique tasting tours in Las Vegas and we highly recommend this lively, thoughtful trio of options. We opted for the Arts District tour, to get us off the Strip which we love but know well, so were happy to find something different. We picked a winner with the arts tour which took us to a unique, unexplored part of the city. We learned so much about this area new to us, between the famous Strip and older downtown. If you think Las Vegas is only a place to lose money and see great shows, here's another option for your next foray to Sin City: a food & art tour. We felt like locals as we prowled the streets, stopping at a popular wedding chapel, neighborhood bar and several small, high quality galleries. Our touring was divided into four tasty samplings -- appetizers to desserts. OUR FIRST "bite" was a delicious empanada with zingy homemade salsa and a fresh, flavorful ceviche at Misterio Mezcal. Then strolling past vintage shops, we admired murals and cottages from the 1920s and '30s, some reconfigured as attractive galleries and shops. Our spirited guide April described the area as "the real Las Vegas -- an up and coming local neighborhood." It felt very much like that -- a neighborhood coming into its own, adapting to changing times and trends. Empanadas and ceviche at Misterio Mezcal delighted our hungry Taste Buzz group. Our insiders' look took us past small businesses, coffee shops, cafes, breweries, barbecue and other specialty restaurants and the city's oldest bakery, Freed's, a much loved institution since 1959. It's famous for its pastries, cookies and elaborate wedding cakes. The Vegas food scene seems to be exploding, and our tour confirmed that. We sampled fabulous barbecue at SoulBelly and pizza better than that we've sampled in Naples at Good Pie Pizza. We walked that off with a stroll past the inventive Majestic Repertory Theater, a proud cornerstone of ALIOS, the arts district. The theater was named for an early 1900s Vaudeville house. Fun to learn this history. WE REALLY did feel like Vegas locals as April guided us past bright murals, antique and coffee shops and funky bars, chatting and informing as we walked. The two other Taste Buzz tours offer the same variety and fun activities as our arts tour -- a blend of sights, history and tastings. One of the other two focuses on Freemont Street and the old Vegas, the other on the newer and more flashy Strip. Each of the three Taste Buzz tours offers four to six local tastes, all at favorite, highly rated eateries endorsed by loyal locals as well as tourists. This gallery offered lovely pottery and wall hangings for sale and to admire between tastes. TASTE BUZZ has created a successful, highly rated mix of food stops, top attractions and insight into cultural landmarks that make Vegas unique. Bruce Keller pauses at a favorite neighborhood bar, Silver Stamp. A beautiful mural is one of many eye-catching attractions on a walking foodie tour in Vegas. We learned many fun facts and interesting Vegas history. At tour's end, we truly felt we'd experienced local culture through art, food and history. Our cheerful and knowledgeable guide was a delight, lingering at the end to share personal recommendations for more places to eat, drink, and play during our stay. Going off the Strip for a few tasty hours offered a wonderful trip down Memory Lane with the latest trends in culinary delights. Taste Buzz offers a trio of top food tours, not to be missed next time you're in Sin City. More information or to book: www.tastebuzzvegas.com Keller and Cookie braved the cool and found sunshine on world famous Santa Monica Pier on a recent fun trip with Hollywood Bus Tours. COMING UP: We're always on the lookout for the off-beat, the "undiscovered." So on a recent theater jaunt in Los Angeles, we hooked up with Hollywood Bus Tours. What a fun day. We spent a delightful afternoon in a small bus with a lively international group of fellow travelers. We visited famous attractions -- from Santa Monica Pier to Griffith Observatory. We cruised past stars' homes and hangouts, well known hotels and restaurants and family attractions including the popular Farmer's Market. Join us, remembering to take time to explore, learn and live. Visit us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link and we'd love to have you officially "follow" by signing up right here at the website.












