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Kennedy Space Center's extraordinary exhibits symbolize American ingenuity while feeding the curious soul. The Center's intriguing Visitor Complex offers close-up views of space projects including an opportunity to come nose-to-nose with the giant space shuttle Atlantis. SPACE CENTER OFFERS USER FRIENDLY SITES, EXPERIENCES Happily "blasting off" into Kennedy Space Center, are Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller, enjoying this wonderful place. All systems go: Launch yourself into a world of wonder, exploration, adventure in space STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NASA's  John F. Kennedy Space Center is a Disneyland for space nerds and anyone interested in the marvels of space exploration. The Center has played a pivotal role in NASA's mission, as the departure site for the first human journey to the moon. It's also the starting point for hundreds of scientific, commercial, and applications spacecraft; and as the base for Space Shuttle launch and landing operations. For us, it was a wonderful launching pad deep into a world we've known only on the surface. Actual modules and vehicles used in the space program are grouped and displayed in attractive user-friendly exhibits. From the Astronauts Hall of Fame to a convincing moonscape, and simulated launches to Mars and beyond, we were "hands on" at the control panels of our adventure. The Center -- KSC -- boasts an enormous and welcoming Visitor Complex organized into Mission Zones where attractions and tours are grouped by chronological era. Massive rockets tell the daring story of space exploration, from the dawn of space adventure and discovery to current missions. We visitors got a fascinating, up-close feel for the story of humans in space. WE STARTED  our adventure mid-morning at Project Mercury and ended our day with the Space Shuttle Program, a moving testimony to the bravery, daring and sacrifice of American astronauts. We visited  the memorial honoring the astronauts who lost their lives during space shuttle missions STS-51L Challenger and STS-107 Columbia. Those heroes are lovingly remembered and honored in a beautifully curated display. We saw the real Lunar Module 9 with a life-sized scene from the Apollo 11 Moon landing. User friendly, interactive exhibits helped us understand this remarkable vehicle and how astronauts landed it on foreign terrain. Apollo's moon landings excited the world and people of all backgrounds and ages. We watched as a three-generation family viewed an actual lunar module. The five-year old was thrilled to touch a real moon rock. Launching themselves into a day of exploration at  Kennedy Space Center, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers share tips on how to make the most of a visit to this internationally known attraction. WE COULDN'T  resist going for a launch -- in fact, we signed up for two launches to experience the sights, sounds and sensations of blasting off into space aboard the space shuttle. Lines for the various launches get long as the day winds down, so come early and plan to spend 6 to 8 hours. It's possible to discover NASA’s plans to explore deep space, get close to life-sized Mars rover replicas and test your skills as a recruit in Journey To Mars: Launched by United Launch Alliance . Daily schedules include astronaut encounters,  a huge array of exhibits and many tours, including a fascinating Atlantis Walking Tour. Several space-themed films are shown at various times. We caught "Journey to Space" and a new 3D movie, "Asteroid Hunters," with stunning images of space, amazingly real. IF YOU WANT t o feel "official," you can take notes as you participate in a Mission Status Briefing to discover what’s happening with current NASA missions. You'll get a peek into the latest operations at Kennedy Space Center and launch activity at Cape Canaveral Air Force Station.  A young couple from Houston enrolled in the Center's "Astronaut Training Experience" (ATX). They said they'd be training to live and work on Mars through an immersive simulation program. We didn't have time to join these enthusiastic space explorers but it sounded like fun. Many activities are included in admission, so check that out when you book and arrange your day. A colorful restaurant offers reasonably priced food and indoor and outdoor seating. We sat outside on comfy chairs and enjoyed the casual setting. Actual NASA astronauts were strolling to answer questions, both indoors and in the outside spaces. MORE INFO and tickets: www.kennedyspacecenter.com Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Halim Urban enjoy alligator in a fun stop with Village Food Tours. UP NEXT: We're continuing the fun in Florida with a delightful food tour and a journey by air boat into the swamps.  Come along with us to the Orlando area, as we headquarter in Melbourne and Cocoa Village for a few fun days with  "grub and gators."  We spend a lively and tasty afternoon with Village Food Tours, run by an enterprising couple, Halim and Jessica Urban. Then we head into the swamps for a close-up look at the resident critters. We have a good time wherever we go and remind you to explore, learn and live and enjoy our weekly column for a fresh spin on travel, performance, culture, food, the arts, family and more.

Birds are plentiful at Brevard Zoo, where guests can feed lorikeets and cockatiels. Heron and other birds native to Florida and other places enjoy the sun in beautifully landscaped grounds. These handsome longhorns snooze while Brevard Zoo visitors admire them.They are also known as Florida Scrub or Florida Native. FLORIDA ZOO IS HOME TO 900 WELL CARED FOR CRITTERS AND BIRDS, WITH OUTREACH AND EDUCATIONAL EMPHASIS AND THOUSANDS OF HAPPY FANS AND SUPPORTERS Flamingos are a favorite display at Brevard Zoo, where more than 100 live. Enjoy the video at story's end.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT BEGAN with a dream, and blossomed into a thriving enterprise attracting more than a half-million visitors last year. The 75-acre Brevard Zoo in Melbourne, Florida, is testimony to what a few determined people can do. The beautifully designed, nonprofit facility is home to more than 900 animals representing more than 195 species. Zoo residents come from Florida, South America, Africa, Asia, and Australia. The zoo has won awards and kudos for its responsible and professional care of its animals. We happened upon some of the critters at feeding time and the passion the staff has for the animals was obvious and fun to see. Bruce Keller enjoys a kayak experience, above, and below, Cookie paddles nearby. The beautiful zebras at Brevard Zoo are from Kenya and Ethiopia and can live up to 30 years. One of the zoo attractions is an area that can be enjoyed from a kayak, as Cookie shows. A pair of injured bald eagles were rescued and "rehabbed" at Brevard Zoo and are living out their lives in protected environment because they would not survive in the wild. THERE'S SOMETHING  magical about a fine zoo, and Brevard is that. It is the proud result of the work of   16,000 Brevard County residents who came together in the early 1990s to design and construct it. Their efforts make it the largest volunteer built zoo in the world and the locals are justifiably proud. People pause, chat, notice, point and discuss the animals and birds.  They  learn and grow, appreciating nature and recognizing how precious the non-human inhabitants of our planet are. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers  enjoy the end of a perfect afternoon at Florida's award winning Brevard Zoo in Melbourne. Enjoy the flamingo video at left.  INFO, tickets, special events: brevardzoo.org THE ZOO  has also developed a series of remarkable conservation programs, increasing the numbers of many Florida species, supporting international programs and developing training programs and workshops. It is proud of its first-ever breeding season for the country's most endangered bird: the Florida grasshopper sparrow. Bravo, Brevard! IT WAS FUN to watch children the day we were there. Many came, in organized school outings, to admire the animals, ask questions, feed the birds. The zoo is proud of its long established partnership with Brevard Public Schools. Through memberships and contributions, the zoo also boosts the region's financial health. And it is internationally accredited, which means it meets stringent standards in caring for its to giraffes, rhinos, big cats, hundreds of colorful parrots and more. Its well presented interactive experiences include giraffe and bird feedings, a children's water play area and kayaking. WE THOROUGHLY  enjoyed our four hours there, strolling the well marked grounds, taking a kayak trip into the mangroves, pausing for lunch at one of the welcoming picnic areas.  Most of all, admiring fellow inhabitants of the planet, appreciating  the meticulous care they get here at Brevard Zoo.    From left,  Bruce Turk, Katie MacNichol, Conner Marx,    Jacob Bruce, Ciarra Stroud, Christopher M. Williams in  a masterful take on the classic Robert Louis Stevenson tale.  --Aaron Rumley photo BEST BET: A brilliant production of "Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde" is held over through Nov. 19 at San Diego's North Coast Repertory Theatre. Six gifted actors are directed with imagination by Shana Wride, in Jeffrey Hatcher's intriguing adaptation of the Stevenson classic. Wride, accomplished on both sides of the footlights, guides a versatile ensemble in a stylish retelling of the story of a good man's struggle with his evil twin. Evocative lighting, a dramatic and minimal set and handsome Victorian top-hats and tails enhance the savvy production, with Bruce Turk and Conner Marx superb as Jekyll and Hyde. Spot-on music, striking costumes and versatile actors shining in multiple roles make this a play-goer's gem. Director Wride and her gifted cast illuminate the story’s good-versus-evil theme in all its complexity. Delightful dialects add to the drama of this well told tale, an interpretation exciting to behold. Northcoastrep.org    The Grotto in Portland, Oregon, is a sanctuary for many, a beautifully landscaped retreat conceived by a priest 100  years ago to fulfill his promise to God if his mother survived. UP NEXT: A calming, quiet place for meditation and admiration of nature can be visited in Portland, Oregon, where The Grotto attracts our garden loving road trippers.  Developed by a priest in 1923, the beloved Grotto is a sanctuary for Portland residents, and visitors and pilgrims from around the world.  The beautiful creation atop a dramatic bluff includes sculpture, gardens, ponds, pathways and meditation benches, paying tribute to faith and the power of prayer. It is a popular wedding setting and regular mass is held, weather permitting. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts and more.

Cocoa Village boasts a super food tasting experience with entrepreneur Halim Urban, who runs his popular tour with wife Jessica. With 20 years in the food business, they offer lively sampling options.  FLORIDA FOOD TOUR OFFERS FUN WALK, DELECTABLE TASTINGS, CITY HISTORY, PLEASANT COMMENTARY AND MORE  Ribs and brisket, sausage and all the trimmings are on tap at Crydermans Barbecue, beloved institution which offers a range of feastings.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IMMERSE YOURSELF in Cocoa Village,  tasting its fabulous food, strolling its pleasant streets, enjoying the story of this historic town of 20,000 people. Your lively guide shows you around town and stops at favorite dining haunts while pointing out art and architectural highlights. Cocoa Village has been around a long time, since fisherman founded it in 1860. It is known for fine food: delicious burgers, brisket as good as any in the world, pizzas with pizzazz, succulent seafood, fabulous barbecue and bakery, and satisfyingly tender deep fried alligator. It boasts a variety of fun ethnic restaurants, ranging from an eatery serving mean drunken noodles to a quaint bakery with mouth-watering curried chicken salad served on a  warm croissant. Ossorio's chicken curry salad with balsamic vinegar on a warm croissant is yummy. Gator bites at Pub Americana, deep fried and tasty. WE ATE  ourselves silly -- well not quite -- at four distinctive and different eateries.  First, Pub Americana, a colorfully decorated, popular dining joint serving tasty gator bites. Then on to the welcoming and busy Ossorio Bakery and Cafe, a flashy Asian restaurant called Thai Thai serving fabulous drunken noodles, and a classic "meat house" called Cydermans, one of the town's most popular places for an authentic, succulent range of meats of every description. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, on the food tasting trail in the fun town of Cocoa Village, Fla. Halim opens the door for a tasty helping of drunken pork noodles at Thai Thai, where he once worked. The Original Cocoa Village Food Tour is well planned and bountiful with friendly hosts and chatty personnel in the eateries. The attractive town -- on the east coast of Florida -- is just a 45-minute drive from downtown Orlando. Besides its food, fun nightlife and theater, the area is famous for its fine beach, gentle surf, laidback lifestyle and unspoiled, natural landscape. We met several couples and many families, enjoying relief from "big city life."  Food tour Halim guides visitors in a tasty tour of  Cocoa Village food treats, here at Pub Americana. Our amiable guide, Halim Urban, runs the Original Cocoa Village Food Tour with wife Jessica. The pair has flair, a low-keyed charm and vast knowledge of the quaint little town they calls home. Over 200 merchants run pretty galleries, intriguing shops, attractive restaurants, bars and more. The town's ethnicity ranges from French, Mexican and Cuban to Thai, Chinese and Greek. HALIM PROUDLY described the cattle farming, citrus growing, fishing and luxury travel that mark the town's early days. Walking from restaurant to cafe is a superb way to sample the food as well as the spirit of the town. We had a great time and heartily recommend these tours. Several options and themes are offered by the enterprising Urbans. Airboat Rides, out of Melbourne, offers fun  swamp tours with gators, birds and lively chat. THEN TO work off the treats, head for the swamps for a different kind of "feasting" -- this one with the eyes, to savor the moist green mangroves, the call of birds and the swoosh as alligators slither through the water, bobbing and surfacing in search of a meal.  WE RECOMMEND  recommend Airboat Rides. Its small, smart staff of locals launches fast but comfy boats from two locations with spirited commentary and knowledge of the swamps. The operation's main launch is from the Lake Washington Boat Ramp and Park in Melbourne, at the headwaters of lovely Upper St. John's River. More information: Village Food Tours: www.villagefoodtours.com Airboat Rides Melbourne: www.airboatridesmelbourne.com Magnificent lions await a visit in Florida's Brevard Zoo, home to exotic and endangered animals from all over the world, a highly praised facility for its preservation efforts.  UP NEXT: While we're in the neighborhood, we visit a world class zoo in Florida. Come with us to explore one of the nation's highest rated zoos. Brevard Zoo, a 75-acre nonprofit facility in Melbourne, Florida, is home to more than 900 animals and more than 195 species from Florida, South America, Africa, Asia, and Australia. The zoo was the vision of volunteers in the early 1990s and is internationally know for its education and preservation efforts. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Magazine's top city lights Honolulu is aglow with city lights, and Waikiki Trolley takes holiday revelers to the highlights. Bruce Keller enjoys a visit with Frosty the Snowman in Honolulu. FROM PAGAN BONFIRES TO MODERN TIMES, LIGHTS SHINE! CITIES AROUND THE WORLD DECK BUILDINGS, TREES  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PAGANS REVERED mistletoe. My Norse ancestors thought it protected them from lightning and thunder. Druids believed that fire encouraged the gods to speed spring. So lights and mistletoe have a long history on Earth. Homo erectus didn't have holiday lights a million years ago, but that's when the first firewere likely built, for warmth, cooking and later to ward off wolves and demons, real or imagined. Today, holiday lights shine in Copenhagen's Tivoli Gardens and the Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Lights shine across the globe from Tokyo to Rio, Arkansas to Oregon, Virginia to Los Angeles, Hong Kong to London. In Washington, D.C., Phoenix and San Diego, the U.S. is "lit" for the holidays. Nowhere is the spectacle more appreciated than in Hawaii, where Honolulu's lights take center stage. We found this oddly shaped mistletoe, a parasite, on Oah u.    One of the stops on Waikiki Trolley visits Santa's sleigh where this visiting family takes a selfie. The much loved Waikiki Trolley is aglow with its own lights as it transports locals and visitors around to city lights. WE MET  travelers from Asia, Australia and the mainland on a recent Honolulu tour.  All were enjoying the spectacle via Waikiki Trolley's  Holiday Lights Tour. It's a family oriented, fun tour that takes riders to see the Christmas illuminations in downtown Honolulu. Highlights are the Christmas tree and Christmas decorations at Honolulu Hale --  city hall. Christmas music is played on the trolley, encouraging a happy holiday mood.   NOT ALL the lights on this page today are part of the Honolulu trolley's tour. We've added a few of our favorite lights photos from other cities. Here's what's in store, if you've booked the Honolulu tour.  First, while waiting to board the bus -- at the 7 p.m. 8 p.m., or 9 p.m. tour options, we recommend you check out the food trucks nearby. We had a difficult decision deciding between Thai and Mexican and opted for a fabulous meal of several kinds of tacos. Trees are beautifully lit throughout the country, here in Washington D.C. Honolulu's lights are splendid, too. It was tasty Mexican street food -- delicious, freshly prepared tacos -- chicken, fish and beef.  Friendly service and tasty fare put us in the holiday spirit and we recommend Tacos de Cacheton for a reasonably priced treat, cooked to order, served with a smile. While Honolulu's Christmas trees and outdoor displays are surrounded by lights, other cities offer carnival rides, street fairs, seasonal food specialties and hot spiced drinks. In the UK, expect roasted chestnuts. In Colombia, try roasted corn.   THE TRADITION of yuletide lights in Honolulu dates to 1987 when a month-long holiday event was named “Honolulu City Lights.” The City Holiday tree was originally decorated with strings of colored lights and a traffic signal control box was used to change the colors. The trolley became a natural part of the fun, with its cheerful clang, and decorations to attract passengers and spread cheer. Rockefeller Center's lavish display in New York is one of the city's most visited holiday exhibits. Psychedelic Portuguese light show It took years for the holiday light tradition to cross the Pacific. On the mainland, it began in Menlo Park, New Jersey, when Edward H. Johnson assembled the first string of electric Christmas tree lights together in 1882. Johnson was a friend of inventor Thomas Edison in Edison's Illumination Company. He hand-wired 80 red, white and blue light bulbs and wound them around his Christmas tree. He gilded the lily, creating a revolving mechanism so the tree was both illuminated and moving.    Tacos de Cacheton on Ala Moana Blvd., offers delicious fare for before or after enjoying a city lights trolley tour.   So get in the holiday mood.From Maine to Arkansas, Arizonato Louisiana, Colorado to Maryland, Texasto Virginia, city lights are waiting.You can join an organized city lights touror if  there isn't one, create your own.Get three or four families together, have apotluck first or plan a gathering for cookiesand Christmas carols, with toddies andpunch.  Then embark on your own tour.Newspapers feature the most colorfulcity lights, so you know where to go.  www.waikikitrolley.com to book or formore information on City Lights Tour. The holy candelabrum, the menorah, adorns hundreds of Honolulu homes, reflecting the culture of the 10,000 Jewish residents in the city.  In other spots around Oahu, Kaneohe transforms its Namoku Street into "Christmas Tree Lane" and revelers can also find lights in Kaimuki, Waikele, Waipahu and Mililani, considered Kaneohe's holiday hot spot.   House Beautiful magazine each year lists the best city lights in America.  The lights of Honolulu made the magazine's top ten again. Here's the link.     Best city lights  in the U.S. So trees everywhere are aglow, and Santa's sleigh is loaded for kids of all ages. If you're vacationing in a city, or relaxing in your own town, a holiday lights tour wherever you are will put you in the proper yuletide spirit -- guaranteed. A menorah shines a light of hope on on downtown  Honolulu.  Jewish culture revolves in the  city around services at Temple Emanu-el.   Paris at night during the yule is a sight to behold. UP NEXT: Christmas is celebrated in tandem with Hanukkah in many households around the world, where a Christmas tree and menorah co-exist in harmony in thousands of living rooms. We take readers on a tour of some of our favorite holiday sights and displays through years of spending holidays abroad. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live -- holiday time and all year long.  Be generous, forgiving and kind and let's make it a memorable and peaceful 2024.

Autumn is a perfect time to visit Mount Rushmore National Memorial in South Dakota's Black Hills.  Fine fall weather is predicted for the next few days making for prime viewing of the spectacular art.  MEMORIAL ATTRACTS INTERNATIONAL CROWD, EVOKES EMOTION AND AWE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS An "Avenue of Flags" welcomes visitors -- an impressive and colorful array of flags of the 50 U.S. states, territories, commonwealths and the District of Columbia. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A FEELING  of intense pride overcame me as I gazed in wonder at Mount Rushmore. Surrounded by an international crowd of admirers -- many with children, hundreds with cameras -- I heard French, Italian, Hindi, Hebrew, German, Mandarin, Japanese and Polish as people absorbed the accomplishment.  Fellow Americans wiped tears and I found myself emotional, too. Many children are part of the crowds each day as three million people from all over the world visit annually.   ONE ENTERS   Mount Rushmore National Memorial through an impressive hall of flags.  The display forms an artful promenade -- flags gently waving in autumn winds. The "avenue" was established during the 1976 U.S. Bicentennial as part of the celebration. It was fun to find our two states' flags -- California and Montana. We watched as fellow Americans took photos by their state's emblem. A woman from Mexico proudly recalled her naturalization ceremony here in 2007. "My whole family came," she said emotionally. There's a fine book store, ranger talks, an excellent film about the monument's making, a beautiful viewing terrace, nature trails, fascinating artful museum, a classy gift shop, and "Carver's Cafe" where the ice cream junkie in our family tasted Thomas Jefferson's own recipe. Thumbs up! "Rich and delicious," he said. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on site. THE STAR of the show is Gutzon Borglum's massive carving on the granite mountain. Four remarkable U.S. presidents gaze back at us, from left: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln.  Borglum chose them for their contributions to the country, their ethics and morals, global thinking, environmental interests and preservation of the principles of the constitution.  Borglum inspected the monument many times between the work which lasted from 1927 to 1941. --photo courtesy Mount Rushmore Memorial Carving began in 1927 as the son of Danish immigrants undertook his most ambitious project. One imagines him supervising as tons of dynamite blasted through the spirelike granite formations of the Black Hills. Borglum was "hands on," dangling from ropes to inspect the work as his vision took shape.  He was concerned with how morning and midday light would affect his figures, and visited at various times of day to document his perceptions.  Thomas Jefferson's recipe for ice cream is one of many unique displays at Rushmore.   BOTH federal funds and private donations made it possible to blast more than 450,000 tons of rock from the mountain with the skills of 400 laborers.  No one was killed, remarkably, and the workers are honored on a giant plaque. The original cost of under $1 million seems modest compared to the $56 million spent during an enormous redevelopment project in the 1990s.    WE'VE VISITED monuments and memorials worldwide -- hundreds of them commemorating fallen war heroes, statesmen, suffragists, sea battles and sailors lost, politicians, economists, scientists, explorers, city founders, musicians and artists, even beloved dogs. None had the effect that seeing this colossal, internationally known stone sculpture had on me. Crazy Horse reaches out to his peoples' lands in the work-in- progress sculpture. The hole shows where the leader's arm will extend. One can see his finger pointing. His horse will eventually be carved beneath him. Carving began in 1948. HOWEVER, THE project has not been accomplished without controversy. Some thought the proposal would compromise the natural wonder of architecture formed millions of years ago. Many Native Americans felt that placing the sculpture on their   sacred Black Hills land would represent continuing betrayal of trust, and another in a string of broken treaties. For centuries, Plains Indians including Arapaho, Cheyenne and Lakota Sioux have used the area for prayer, medicine, and for gathering food and building materials. In the latter half of the 19th century, U.S. expansion into the Black Hills led to the infamous Sioux Wars. In the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie, the U.S. government granted exclusive use of all of the Black Hills to the Sioux. So one understands the objection to the sculpture. A sculpture of Gutzon Borglum by his son, Lincoln Borglum in on display at the Memorial. TO PAY RESPECT to these great cultures and in the spirit of apology for many broken treaties, another memorial is in progress. We visited it, too, and recommend it as a companion visit to Rushmore.  The nearby Crazy Horse Memorial is just a half hour or 17 miles down the road from Rushmore. It is an impressive complex on Thunderhead Mountain, with a museum and elaborate displays of Indian beadwork, paintings and sculpture. Its focal point is the  sculptural work in progress of the great Lakota leader and his horse.  Another ambitious project, it was begun more than 75 years ago, in 1948, and continues today. The project was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a  respected Lakota elder. The massive carving of Crazy Horse was inspired by his heroics at the Battle of the Little Big Horn, in which General George Custer was defeated. Survivors contributed memories of the battle to sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski who undertook the project and worked on it for many years.   This photo shows the back of the granite with the figure of George Washington peeking out.  AFTER Ziolkowski died in 1982, his widow Ruth and family continued the project, operated by the nonprofit Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, which also runs the museum and cultural center. The monument reflects desire to create a symbol of Native American heroism and resilience. Fees range from $7 to about $15. Rushmore admission is free. $10 for parking. mtrushmorenationalmemorial.com crazyhorsememorial.org Celebrity Cruises offers 15 ships and interesting options to  entertain guests, here a glass blowing demonstration & class. UP NEXT:  We have fun in store, with Montana's Shakespeare in the Schools, San Juan and the rain forest of Puerto Rico, a Halloween preview and a special cruise with glass blowing classes. Some of our favorite cruises offer an opportunity to learn a new art and we tried our luck at glass blowing on a recent Celebrity Eclipse cruise to Antarctica.  It's a cool way to educate oneself at sea, and you keep what you make, including a novel urn for ashes of a beloved pet. More on the Bard in rural schools  and a recent Celebrity cruise to the far reaches of the Earth.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

The Palms at Indian Head offers a tranquil, beautiful escape from city life, with its open airy feel. DESERT HIDEAWAY DESERVES YOUR VISIT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The property boasts an Olympic size pool, which is a popular place to be as temperatures heat up in the desert.  You'll find unsurpassed desert views, privacy and solitude. YOU'LL STEP BACK  in time at the Palms at Indian Head -- to a world where nature artfully complements man-made beauty. It's a unique hotel which feels both laid back and sophisticated, thanks to careful development by a visionary couple. David Leibert and Cynthia Wood saved  the complex from neglect when they bought and lovingly  restored the main building where stars of cinema's golden age relaxed. Imagine Clark Gable, Lon Chaney, Will Rogers, Bing Crosby and Marilyn Monroe lounging by the pool. Pretend it's 1950. The stars are enjoying the bar, golf, a quiet place to read, relax, swim and visit. EVERYONE  was relaxed then, and  the creative owners have preserved that "laid back" feeling at the 20-acre, 12-room resort, built in 1947. Thanks to the enterprising owners and their love of nature, you can soak up the ambiance, wander on a nearby nature trail, enjoy a leisurely meal or swim in the pools. Nearly eight decades after the property was conceived, Leibert and Wood are patiently restoring it to its glory days -- with their own spin and tasteful   The hotel's gallery showcases a tasteful mix  of fine art, often reflecting desert imagery. Here's a Michael Weelden's piece. architectural changes. (The original bungalows were lost to fire but are mostly replaced by a charming boutique hotel over the lobby and lounge, and a few guest cottages on ground level.) The two were inspired by the beautiful trees on the property -- California's famous fan palms, Mexican palms and date producing palms near the pool. Thus the name, which also reflects the inn's location. It is located at the base of Indian Head Mountain,  a stately summit in the gorgeous San Ysidro Mountains. The town is Borrego Springs and the area is the Anza Borrego Desert, named after Juan Bautista de Anza, a Spanish explorer who explored the region in 1774. Borrego refers to the bighorn sheep that inhabit the area, and is the Spanish word for lamb. Framed by a soon-to-bloom ocotillo on a Palms bike ride.     THE OWNERS'   love of nature and impeccable artistic vision blend in this unique place. You'll hear Frank Sinatra tunes as you check in.  If you stroll the grounds, you'll see remains of the original hotel bungalows, lost to fire. Owners Dave Leibert and Cindy Wood at Machu Pichu. The two travel widely  and run two Borrego Springs venues. Replacing them are the boutique hotel and a popular restaurant, Coyote Steakhouse. Another local favorite restaurant is the more casual Red Ocotillo, also owned by Leibert and Wood. THE TWO  have worked hard to make their restaurants and the inn welcoming. All around the Coyote Steakhouse, you'll hear chirping birds.  We also saw rabbits, a roadrunner and dozens of charming little lizards on the walkways. G ifted pianist Joey Ross plays weekends at the Palms, here with musician Cookie enjoying. Steve Hunter also plays from time to time. Enhancing the desert's pleasures is a lovely gallery offers artfully showcasing landscapes, appealing pottery and imaginative paintings. On weekends, gifted pianist Joe Ross offers a range of beautifully played classics, '50s and '60s pop, light classics and occasional Scott Joplin ragtime. A genius at variety and smooth segue, he plays inventive medleys with hypnotic force in a repertoire ranging from French impressionists to jazz and the Sinatra repertoire which is synonymous with the inn.     THE MENU  at the Steakhouse is superbly chosen, with artful, tasty salads and a range of entrees including steaks, chops, seafood and chicken  -- all beautifully  prepared.  We've tried the steaks, salmon and chicken -- all delicious. Of the many appealing appetizers, the tasty ahi tartare and crab cakes are treats.  Lobster, osso bucco, special holiday offerings  and other delights are offered and if you dine before 6 p.m., enjoy a price break on a prix fixe meal. We end with the sugar-free cheesecake, and there's often homemade berry cobbler. An after dinner tradition is a stroll: the property rests on land once occupied by the Cahuilla Indians and the mountain profile of a reclining Indian frames the property and inspires a closer look during after the satisfying meal.  It's also beautiful at dawn and dusk.  We parked our bikes outside the Palms' gallery, which offers a nicely displayed and tasteful mix of paintings and sculpture. THE BUILDING  that now houses most of the rooms was constructed in 1958 in the famous California "Mid-Century Modern" style -- with Mondrian influences. The architect is unknown but David and Cindy narrowed the field to Joseph Eickler, Cliff May and Albert Frey, all noted for their flair in the style of the day. IN THE DAY  it was called Hoberg's Desert Resort, and guests reveled in the star-studded night sky. We did the same recently, after hiking and biking the  retreat and exploring nearby Palm Canyon. The stars -- like the inn itself -- have a timeless appeal. Information: To book a room at the Palms or reserve a table for dinner at Coyote Steakhouse: stay@thepalmsatindianhead.com 760-440-6824 To book redocotillo.com 1 760-767-7400 Dine in or take out. For expert tips on organizing your time & what to see: andrea@GotoBorregoSprings.com BEST BETS:   Erica Marie trades her apron for sexy cocktail dresses, food banter, songs.  A merry mix of music and food chat takes the audience on a spin around the globe in "I Can Cook, Too." This engaging work is gracing the stage at New Village Arts in Carlsbad through May 26. It's served hot, sassy and sizzling by singer-actor Erica Marie Weisz backed by a terrific musical trio and fun lighting and sound effects. Inspiration for the piece came to Erica Marie during the exile days of COVID.  She found therapy in isolation by combining her two loves: musical theater and cooking. She sings, sashays and flirts, stirring up a couple dozen tunes, all with dining, food and romance references. The songs are served in "courses" and the range is impressive -- from sultry Peggy Lee songs to Edith Piaf's signature piece, a ballad from "Sunset Boulevard," Jerome Kern's "Smoke Gets in Your Eyes" and more.  New Village stalwart Olivia Pence joins Erica Marie for a stirring rendition of "Happy Days Are Here Again/Get Happy" made famous by Judy Garland and her daughter, Liza Minnelli, and beautifully delivered here. Weisz's wit, energy and her clever script pair cooking and song with help from a brilliant "sous chef," pianist and musical director Patrick Marion. It's a tasty romp with bass player Martin Martiarena and percussionist Jon Berghhouse. What fun to see gifted faces in San Diego musical theater together. Marion's flawless accompaniment includes an accordion cameo in "La Via en Rose." This marvelous production comes dressed with a half-dozen costume changes and an hilarious audience participation number that brings the house down. The show sent this Broadway Baby tap dancing down memory lane. For tickets:  (760) 433-3245  or newvillagearts.org Bruce Keller prepares to help hoist the sails on California's official tall ship, the Californian. It is one of many nautical treasures one can board and enjoy at Maritime Museum of San Diego.   ON TAP : Ahoy, maties. Kick off the summer with an adventure on the sea.  It's almost Memorial Day weekend and with that comes the beginning of summer tourism. Here in San Diego, we're ready to welcome ocean loving tourists. The city's world class Maritime Museum of San Diego offers a wonderful immersion in nautical lore and life on the high seas.  An impressive collection of vessels includes the Californian, our state's official tall ship, so we step back in time with a four-hour sail on it, and help hoist the sails.  It is a showpiece of the much loved museum with knowledgeable docents to help you step back in time, visiting a pirate ship and a submarine.  The Museum is a treasure trove of vintage vessels -- the steamship Berkeley, the famous Star of India, which rounded the Horn in the early 1800s, and the San Salvador where famous movies were filmed. Then picture yourself on a yacht with a beautiful view, live music, a glass of your favorite beverage and delicious food.  It could be a brunch or dinner cruise aboard City Cruises, coming to readers soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, the arts, family and more.

Palm Desert is a haven for sun seekers, hikers, bikers, lovers of the desert and its beauty.  Since 1989, tourists and locals alike have something else to attract them to this unique part of the country: the Desert Symphony. The Desert Symphony has a full orchestra of 60 gifted players, from all walks of life.  MUSIC SOARS ABOVE PALMS:GRASSROOTSEFFORT BLOSSOMSTO PRODUCE A SYMPHONY WITH60 PLAYERS ANDA FIVE-SHOWSEASON STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Desert Symphony Headlining the March 6 gala to celebrate Desert Symphony's 35th anniversary are Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano, at Agua Caliente Rancho Mirage. The Desert Symphony will accompany the duo. THIRTY-FIVE years ago, an ambitious group of Palm Springs residents decided to organize a symphony, to bring orchestra music and musical events to the area normally associated with golfing get-aways, movie stars and admirers of the desert, its relaxed lifestyle and scenery. The Indian Wells Symphony was born in 1989 and soon adopted its present moniker, the Desert Symphony. With the energy of volunteers and support of local businesses and its enthusiastic long-time president Nancy Tapick, a driving force in the region was born. The Symphony's annual gala takes place in the showroom of Agua Caliente Casino Resort and Spa in Rancho Mirage, on March 6.  The reach of the symphony extends to future musicians in Coachella Valley, through programs for school children. "Our goal is to inspire them to become musicians and music appreciators," says Tapick. The Children’s Music Discovery Series offers programs ranging from a string quartet to a wind octet, supervised by the symphony's music director and drawing from the talents of the orchestra, whose musicians have played with major symphonies in the country.   The organization proudly encourages young musicians through scholarships.  Several have gone on to professional music careers.    The Desert Symphony of Palm Springs presents five concerts yearly, including popular entertainers, singers, musicians and acrobats -- plus a major gala  fundraiser.  Performances are enjoyed by both locals and tourists at McCallum Theatre.  THROUGH THE years, the symphony has hosted -- and accompanied -- a "who's who" of popular performers, including its first big name, singer Glen Campbell.    A roster of other famed artists followed including Andy Williams, Jose Feliciano, Peter Nero, the Gatlin Brothers, Tommy Tune, Art Garfunkel, Roger Williams, Jack Jones, Kaye Ballard, Michael Bolton, Jason Alexander, The Texas Tenors, Neil Sedaka, Crystal Gayle, Melissa Manchester, Peter Frampton and recently, Mary Osmond. Next up this season is noted singer Tony DeSare. He promises an evening of treats, celebrating the music of Frank Sinatra, who lived in Palm Springs for many years while touring the world and making films. The Feb. 29 concert is DeSare's second performance with the Symphony.  The first was so well received he was invited to return. Singer songwriter Tony DeSare will headline a concert accompanied by Desert Symphony.  New York born DeSare promises to "do my best to conjure the magic of the music from the Great American songbook with a few surprises sprinkled in."  The jazz and soul singer is also a songwriter and musician and may take a turn at the piano in George Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue."  "I’m excited to be working with the wonderful Desert Symphony again," says DeSare, about his return. Then just a few days later, this year's gala features pop duo Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano performing at Agua Caliente Rancho Mirage, Wednesday, March 6 . Cocktails are at 5 p.m., dinner at 5:30 p.m., and the concert at 8 p.m. The duo, discovered by Marie Osmond, presents a show, "Simply the Best."  Through years of an impressive five-part season, the Symphony has earned a reputation as one of the finest orchestras of popular music in the southwest United States. Glen Campbell was the first big name to play with  the Desert Symphony. Many other stars followed.  Singer Tommy Tune is one of many luminaries to perform with Desert Symphony, now 35 years old. In its early days, the season  featured great works from the world of classical music, including Beethoven, Mozart, Tchaikovsky, and Brahms. "The orchestra began a slow transition toward  “pops,” says Tapick, when residents and visitors expressed interest in lighter fare.  The board listened, introducing the present format which includes popular entertainers accompanied by the 60-piece orchestra. The Desert Symphony has performed and partnered with the Boys and Girls Clubs of Coachella Valley, the Rancho Mirage Public Library, the City of La Quinta, La Quinta Public Library, the Palm Desert Public Library, and McCallum Theatre, where it presents its docket of five annual "star" concerts. Two final concerts round out the season, a John Denver tribute concert March 27, and "Let's Hang On" April 11, a quartet featuring the music of Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons.    For more on the Feb. 29 concert, March 6 gala or the symphony season, call 760 773-5988.       More is more at Oscar's with dancers, acrobats, big wigs and lots of bosoms, eye lashes and make-up Here's Diamond Evvon, with her chest armor.  Oscar's owner and producer Dan Gore as Cheyenne Demuir will zip line from Oscar's  balcony in drag March 10.  UP NEXT: Drag is time honored, and the drag show at Oscar's in Palm Springs is celebrating its sixth anniversary the weekend of March 9-10. Owner Dan Gore plans a special appearance during two performances of Sunday's "Bitchiest Brunch." He will zip line into the house in full drag -- from the balcony to the stage area below. Risque fun is all part of Oscar's brunch birthday party.  Two Sunday shows will feature Gore, dressed as his alter ego Cheyenne Demuir, with Oscar's gang of beauties performing, too. Emcee Anita Rose as the wisecracking spirit of Oscar's keeps the fun and jokes rolling.  She has headlined the brunch show all six years of its run and is a favorite with the packed houses. Book a seat for  laughs, bottomless mimosas, endless irreverence and more. Oscar's also has a great restaurant and many other shows to consider. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature and family. Check out oscarspalmsprings.com/events/ and look for more arts and travel pieces at: www.whereiscookie.com

Oscar's is a fun gig for both full-house audiences and performers, who rake in tips and work hard for them. The "Bitchiest Brunch" features emcee Anita Rose, right, and below ready for her close-up in another costume with  writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers. On Sunday,        March 10,  the "Bitchiest Brunch" features Oscar's owner Dan Gore in drag on a zip line to celebrate six years of crowd pleasing brunches, at both the 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. shows.   OSCAR'S OPUS: DRAG, COMMUNITY SPIRIT AND A HIT WITH THE CROWDS   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OSCAR'S  in downtown Palm Springs is more than a nightclub, a restaurant, or a fun place to see a show.  It's part of the soul of this interesting and diverse city, a mecca for the rich and famous, a place for sun, golf and R&R, and a well known gay and trans-friendly town. Oscar's Owner Dan Gore, aka Cheyenne Demuir, left and right. He'll headline this weekend's "Bitchiest Brunch" Sunday at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m.   This weekend marks the sixth  anniversary of  Oscar's weekend Saturday and Sunday drag show's, "Bitchiest Brunch," and owner Dan Gore is celebrating in style. The show is sure to sell out on Sunday, March 10, with producer and entrepreneur Gore dressing for the occasion and whizzing onto the stage on a zip line for two "Bitchiest Brunch" performances, at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. Emcee Anita Rose has been with him since the brunch's beginning in Palm Springs, a town with a long, proud history as a gay friendly village.  In the 1970s and 1980s during the AIDS crisis, it was a place for gay men to seek treatment and refuge. Hundreds of people were treated at its medical centers where living costs and medical care were more accessible and cheaper than in New York  or San Francisco. Miss Bee Hiven takes a few green kudos from happy fans. Dan Gore has a long career in the entertainment business, from promoter to filmmaker. He produces the shows and owns Oscar's Cabaret.   When the dancers' bosoms are full, the tip overflow goes into a money box carried by a rover. THUS, THRU THE YEARS,  the city developed a strong reputation as an LGBT-friendly destination. The greenbacks roll in during a performance, as dancers and agile gymnasts shake, rattle,  roll, do splits, kicks, spins and turns for tips. Here Luna Lafierce collects gratuities while dancing and miming all the time.  Today, the Palm Springs area has a flourishing LGBTQ base, and Oscar's celebrates that. We love to visit the venue.  It's lively, friendly and fun.  People smile and laugh. It's an oasis of kindness, acceptance and folks just out to have a good time. Many gay couples choose this desert city for their elderly years. Part of the weekend's proceeds go to the area's LGBTQ Community Center of the Desert, which provides a welcoming environment for all members of the community. Oscar's paves the way for understanding. John Eltinge was born William Dalton and was a   famous 1920s drag queenplaying in New York and London. He performed  for King Edward II. Dancing with audience members is part of the fun at Oscar's with quick costume and wig changes. Here's Luna Lafierce again with a new hairdo.  Wigs are big, boobies are sometimes pointed, and a good time is had by all, here with Diamond Evvon.  SAYS GORE ,"There's a real need for a platform for this caliber of entertainment." Does Oscar's have its detractors?  "Oh, sure," says Gore. "But of the skeptics who come in for a show, 70 per cent leave changed and accepting; 30 per cent just don't get it or buy it."  Part of the fun at Oscar's is tipping the dancers. Here a bride-to-be offers tips from her dress. Oscar's -- named for a favorite dog -- is known for its programming diversity which welcomes both straight and gay audiences for its drag cabaret. Besides funding to the LGBTQ Center, Oscar's is also a generous donor to other Palm Springs activities and organizations.  On Christmas Day, Gore and his staff offer a free holiday meal with all the trimmings.  "Anyone can come and it's always packed," he says.  Other ways Oscar's gives back is through contributions to the local food bank, to Boys and Girls Clubs and other civic enterprises. Plaques of gratitude are framed inside with a wall of Hollywood performers who have visited. "We try to be generous to the community," says Gore, in the spirit of "giving back." Oscars brunches give way to evening entertainment. Tickets and info: oscarspalmsprings.com We photographed these charming Gentoo penguins at Bluff Cover in the Falkland Islands, known as Islas Malvinas to the Argentine people.   UP NEXT:    We're on the penguin trail. From a popular Palm Springs drag show to penguins, we're at the tip of South America photographing those enchanting penguins. Depending on your source, there are either 17 or 18 species of penguins on the planet, 5 of which live in Antarctica. Another 4 species live on sub-Antarctic islands. We saw four species, and observed three up close and personal on a recent trip to the Antarctic. Penguins are charming, resilient and adorable. They were the main reason we traveled thousands of miles, cruising from Buenos Aires, Argentina, to see them and other wildlife. We hope you'll enjoy our upcoming story, remembering to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a unique spin on travel, nature, performance, family, the arts and more.   www.whereiscookie.com

Cormorants abound off the tip of South America, with a motor boat trip from Ushuaia. From a distance they resemble penguins, which are found nearby near "the end of the world."  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are delighted to be on the penguin trail, motoring out of Ushuaia, Argentina. WELCOME TO THE END OF THE WORLD: BOATS, BIRDS, COLD AND BEAUTY AWAIT  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  A giant southern sea lion sits surrounded by his harem and young pups, while cormorants stand sentinel in the distance. Fishing and pleasure boats can be found in the Ushuaia harbor, at the end of the continent . THE ANTICIPATION was electric.  We could feel the excitement in our small touring boat, a comfy catamaran which took us from the cruise port terminal in Ushuaia toward Isla de Los Pajaros, or Bird Island. We were looking for penguins and cormorants. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Ushuaia on an outing from Celebrity. We two sipped tea while others ordered red wine. Together we cruised the Beagle Channel and approached the island, covered with cormorants and seals. The birds fooled us at first, because they resemble penguins from a distance. But as we came closer we could see their  orange feet and large impressive wings.  Definitely not penguins. But beautiful cormorants. Penguins would come a bit later. The cormorants  are noisy, demanding critters -- fun to watch as they spread their wings, dive to feed their young, ever keeping one another in line. WE KNEW   we were in for a treat leaving windy, wild and sometimes wet Ushuaia, located at the tip of Argentina and a busy port city for Antarctica cruises. It holds the title as the southernmost town on the American continent and in the world. The charm of Magellenic penguins is obvious from the first encounter. They are captivatingly cute. Isla de los Pájaros is a rock sticking out of the Beagle Channel, several miles offshore from Ushuaia. It gets its name because it’s home to hundreds, perhaps thousands, of birds. El Fin del Mundo -- the end of the world -- beckoned Cookie and Keller on an adventure to view wildlife. THE PEOPLE of Ushuaia welcome the sun because they don't always have it in their windswept town, perched on a steep hill and surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to our tour to several islands, including  Isla Yécapasela, known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies of mostly Magellenic penguins and a beautiful park, Tierra del Fuego National Park, where we also stopped. It is closer to the Antarctic Peninsula than to Argentina’s capital city, Buenos Aires, where our adventure began on a cruise five days earlier. MANY PEOPLE never consider a trip to this remote part of the world, but we've been many places -- including an earlier trip to this part of the planet -- and we love it.  We prepared for the dips in temperature -- from 90 degrees F in Buenos Aires, to below freezing in the Antarctic.  I grew up in Montana, and was excited to return to this part of the subantarctic forest, with its tundra, glaciers and gorgeous coastline. The Magellanic penguin can be recognized by his beautiful curved markings and pink around his eyes. Tierra del Fuego also offers jagged peaks, a thick beech forest, and a wild array of animals — including a relative of the camel, the graceful guanaco with its coveted fur. Whether you're cruising or visiting on your own, Ushuaia is a fascinating place. Its classic birding spots besides the islands we visited include its famous landfill where the caracara vulture abounds, the ski-lift area at the Martial Glacier, the national park, and Garibaldi Pass to the north of the city. My birding cousin Betty would have loved our outing.  "The more remote the better," was her motto.  Remote, Ushuaia is.  And wondrous. www.celebritycruises.com An accomplished cast presents a polished production of  "Tartuffe," Moliere's masterful satire. Director Richard Baird works magic in this satirical comedy.                                                           --photo by Aaron Rumley BEST BETS: A first-rate production of "Tartuffe,"   Moliere's satirical comedy on religious hypocrisy, is selling out in San Diego. The work, at always inventive North Coast Repertory Theatre, features Richard Baird's imaginative direction.  His impeccable actor's timing shines on the other side of the footlights in this timely 17th Century romp. It's brilliantly acted with belly laughs aplenty as the fraud Tartuffe worms his way into a wealthy French home, fooling the lord of the manor and his mother, but not every member of the household. The production is a breakneck ride of wit, wigs and naughty merriment. Poet Richard Wilbur's translation preserves the playwright's delightful rhyming couplets and double entendres. Baird and his virtuoso cast deliver Moliere in all his bawdy brilliance.  Through April 7. 858 481-1055. northcoastrep.org       Colonia in Uruguay, is known for its historic quarter and beautiful Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums sport gorgeous ceramic tiles, a Colonia specialty . UP NEXT: Colonia in southwestern Uruguay, by the Río de la Plata, faces Buenos Aires, Argentina and is one of the oldest towns in Uruguay. We found it charming and inviting, not as "touristy" as we'd expected. The lovely village is the departmental capital,  Colonia del Sacramento, known for its cobbled historic quarter and colonial Portuguese and Spanish buildings. Many museums are also on view, including the Museo del Azulejo, filled with ceramic tiles. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Our lovely Uruguayan guide, Paulo, takes a mate break at one of our stops. NATIONAL DRINK HAS ANCIENT HISTORY, GIVES JUST THE RIGHT BUZZ TO MILLIONS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The popularity of mate is evident on the streets and in shop windows, where mugs are sold as souvenirs.   YOU SEE the tell tale thermos everywhere.  In the bus, the taxi, the train, the airplane. Next to it, the mate cup, sometimes with a strainer, often with a straw for communal consumption. Yerba mate (pronounced mah-tay) is the national drink of Uruguay and a popular beverage in other parts of South America.  Most agree that Uruguay has the corner on "mate madness." For in Uruguay, it is as important as water or mother's milk. Mate is deeply engrained in the culture. This gives a close-up view of the mate leaves and the cup into which the hot water is poured. The straw is shared by the drinkers.   YERBE MATE, also known as mate, is an herbal tea, a traditional drink in Latin and South America. It's made by steeping dried leaves from the yerba mate plant in hot water. While most consumers prefer it hot, Yerba mate can also be served cold with ice and lemon, sometimes honey. Mate was first consumed by the indigenous Guaraní who live in what is now Paraguay, southeastern Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, and Uruguay.  It was also enjoyed by the Tupí people who lived in neighboring areas. We found mate mugs and thermoses   everywhere in Uruguayan shops.   SO FASCINATED were we by the phenomenon of mate that we interviewed tour guides, shop owners and other locals to gain a better understanding of the country's intense love affair with this seemingly addictive drink. The comments included the following: "It's part of our heritage. We do it as a social thing, when we meet and old friend or family member." "It's how we start the day.  We drink it all day, until late afternoon.  Then we taper off because it can keep a person awake." "It's better than food for me.  I fill my thermos in the morning and drink mate all day while directing tours on the bus. I don't need to eat until evening." "I need mate to keep me going.  I keep the cup by my bed so all I have to do in the morning is go to the stove and heat the kettle." Mate by the sea, anyone? This mate mug and a thermos of hot water were our tour bus guide's. IT SEEMED to us that the people we watched over a period of hours were getting a bit "high" on the stuff.  Not slurring their words or acting silly, as people sometimes do under the influence of alcohol.  No, this "buzz" was similar to the coffee buzz I get from too much java. (My husband says, "You don't need coffee.  You ARE coffee." Perhaps he's right.) WHATEVER THE reason, mate has a huge following, mostly in Uruguay, but also in more rural parts of Argentina, where it is equally revered and widely used and enjoyed. Statistics show that mate users drink as much as three liters a day -- an amazing amount.  And while Uruguayans consume more mate per person than in any other country, Argentina is the largest producer of mate.  Uruguayans insist their mate is more pure, and claim they make it into a finer powder, free of stems.  The competition over mate may be somewhat like the friendly tango war over which country invented it. A young man fills his mate cup from the ever present thermos, at a picnic area. On a healthy note:  the antioxidants in yerba mate protect against heart disease. Remember that green tea, which is rich in antioxidants, can't even do this, and coffee is often linked to heart disease. This benefit of heart health is unique to yerba mate, fans claim. Depending on how much you consume, our guide said, "It can feel very trippy. The caffeine in it can really give you a buzz....." Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and host Orlando Ossowski in the grand Teatro Colon. It is a Buenos Aires treasure, considered the finest in the world for its fabulous acoustics. UP NEXT: Opera at its finest is heard on many of the world's great stages. Opera aficionados insist, however, that one opera house in the world soars above all others for its acoustic excellence. It is Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires, a national treasure. Remember to explore, learn and live and check out our weekly adventures at www.whereiscookie.com

A short pleasant walk from the hop on bus takes visitors to Museo Evita. It's also an easy taxi ride from most of the centrally located hotels.    MUSEUM HONORS LEGACY OF ICONIC FIRST LADY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER STEPPING INTO the Evita Museum in Buenos Aires is a walk back in time to the days of glory for the woman whose life took on legendary proportions in Argentina.  Known simply as "Museo Evita," the museum is in a building built in the early 20th century, designed as the home of a wealthy family. Before its incarnation as a museum, it housed administrative offices and earlier,  a shelter run by the internationally known personality who rose to fame and power although not elected to high office. EVA DUARTE  Peron's foundation acquired the stately home in 1948 to help needy women from all over Argentina. Social workers addressed their health and housing problems and proposed solutions. The museum's gift shop offers mementos and books, photographs and postcards of Evita's life. EVA DIED in 1952 and after the Peron government was overthrown in 1955, the home served as an administrative venue. In 1999, it was transferred to the Eva Peron National Institute for Historical Research. The museum opened in 2002 for the 50th anniversary of Eva Peron's death. On a lovely spring day, we stepped inside the fascinating museum with Peron fans and curious tourists from all corners of the world. Many weren't born during Eva's lifetime, but knew the "Evita" story. EVA DUARTE rose form the ranks of a humble rural family in the village of Los Toldos. She was born May 7, 1919, in a single-story brick house in the agricultural town 180 miles from the Argentine capital. With a gift for performance, she took her dreams of becoming an actor to Buenos Aires, and was playing bit parts when Argentina's Juan Domingo Perón,  met her. She caught his eye; the attraction was mutual. We enjoyed photos of them and displays of stunning dresses she wore at functions in Buenos Aires. The museum also features photos from her 1947 European tour, when she made headlines charming international leaders and even had an audience with Pope Pius XII. Eva Peron and President Juan Peron were married in 1945. Historian Santiago Regolo offers insight into the popularity of Eva Peron, known as Evita. Social justice was her platform. DESIGNER DRESSES of silk and taffeta are displayed with objects and mementos that belonged to Evita. Interactive exhibits focus on turning points in her life, including her career as an actress, her campaigning trips to elect Perón,  her devoted political and social work, her illness, death and funeral. Photos and films show her speaking to enthralled crowds, and offer insight into her massive appeal during Argentina's turbulent times of the 1940s and 1950s. Evita gave downtrodden people hope. ARTISTIC CURATORS have woven contemporary objects into the museum's mix for a fascinating glimpse of Evita, her husband and the changing landscape of the country. After meeting then Colonel Perón in 1944 during a charity event at Luna Park Stadium, she became a tireless advocate for the poor.  That event benefited victims of an earthquake. The people she helped remembered her and voted for her husband. She was the first First Lady to actively campaign and beat the drum for her spouse. Eva and Juan Peron at their country home. THE BUILDING'S history begins with its tenure as a private home. The Perons acquired Casa Carabassa because of a mutual attraction to its French and Italian touches. To Eva, these flourishes suggested a boutique hotel. The Carabassa family had purchased it in 1923, adding their touches before it came to the attention of the Perons in 1948. After its tenure as a refuge for women, it evolved into today's unusual museum, which includes a room used by school children in an educational program. Their artwork leads to a pleasant café which offers both indoor and outdoor seating, a restful space to contemplate Eva Peron, surrounded by beautiful, mature trees, the song of birds and views of lovely gardens A wealthy patrician family designed the elegant home, now museum, more than 100 years ago. The Peron family is still controversial in the country.  Some consider his rule to have been a dictatorship run by self-serving egotists. But Perón followers including historian and professor Santiago Regolo praise the couple's efforts to eliminate poverty and dignify labor.  One wonders: Were they inspired, generous leaders passionate for the poor, or the  demagogues their detractors claim them to be? Perhaps a bit of both. Beautiful tiles, marble and iron can be seen throughout the museum. BUT THE popularity of Evita cannot be denied.  According to professor Regolo, "The Peróns gave their name to the political movement known as Peronism, which in present-day Argentina is represented mainly by the Justicialist Party. Eva's legacy lives on." The party personifies populism in the form of a strong charismatic leader, Regolo said. Argentina's present leader is not a follower of this movement. Eva Peron, known to the people as "Evita," was a model and actress before rising to fame as First Lady. EVA -- KNOWN as "Evita" -- has had a rebirth in popular culture and is known worldwide through the Andrew Lloyd Webber musical. The Tony winning play and subsequent movie trace her immense popularity,  particularly with working-class women.  The intensity of the support she drew from the people is said to have surprised even Juan Perón himself, Regolo said.  She used her power with lower economic classes to helped enact reforms and policies, and give women a footing they had not had in Argentina. She also helped bring about the passage of Argentina's women's suffrage law, Regolo added.  Peron's first wife died of cancer, as did Evita.  He married a third time nine years after Evita's death in 1952.    Museo Evita is well worth a visit whatever your politics, for insight into the life of a remarkable personality. More information and tickets: museoevita.org.ar   Enjoying a morning at a Buenos Aires landmark, La Confiteria Ideal, dating to 1912, are from left, Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Rolando Ossowski. The cafe's remarkable history includes notoriety as a tango performance spac e.   . UP NEXT: Walk around the blocks with us in Buenos Aires. Come with us for a spectacular guided tour by a native son, Orlando Ossowski, whose knowledge of the city of his birth is extraordinary and detailed.  We'll wander through Buenos Aires with economist, opera aficionado, gourmand and history buff Rollando, visiting his favorite haunts including famous hotels, restaurants, government houses and a beloved bakery and restaurant, the elegant and historic Confiteria La Ideal. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, performance, family and more:   www.whereiscookie.com

Concert goers head to Domo, for a concert by world class musicians last year. This year's season also features a brief array of sold-out concerts. There are other ways to experience the internationally known arts, nature and music venue near Fishtail, Montana. ARTS VENUE FEATURES GEOLOGY TOUR, BIKING, HIKING AND FABULOUS CONCERTS -- SOLD OUT ALREADY--BUT YOU CAN STILL ENJOY THE PLACE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Expert piano tuner Michael Toia keeps the many valuable pianos at Tippet Rise in tune each season. The collection was assembled by Peter Halstead and is worth millions. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU  are anywhere near Montana or Yellowstone Park this summer, you are within reasonable driving distance to the wonders of Tippet Rise Arts Center near Fishtail. This unique and beautiful place offers multiple pleasures, from stunning artwork to fascinating geology tours, coveted concerts and more. All in the serene setting of cottonwood trees and birdsong. "Inverted Portal" by Ensamble Studio, welcomes visitors to walk around or through its vast expanses.  SO DON'T  despair if you didn't get concert tickets. (Most of us didn't.)  Drawings for tickets to the small, acoustically perfect venue were in March so the drawing is long over. Do check the website weekly to see if something becomes available, which it occasionally does. MEANWHILE,  you can still bike or hike this gorgeous area. A youngster enjoys ice cream at Tippet Rise opening last week. During visits and the concert season, you can bring a picnic or purchase food from Prerogative Kitchen, a much loved dining enterprise and two-time semi-finalist for the James Beard Awards. Guests are welcome to bring their own provisions to enjoy out on the trails, or within the main Cottonwood Campus. Developed as a venue for art and music in the backdrop of nature, by founders Cathy and Peter Halstead, Tippet Rise blends world class musical performances with sculpture. The first thing you see is a stunning sculpture by famed artist Alexander Calder. His "Two Discs" sets the scene for. more delights, including Calder's "Stainless Stealer," also on loan to Tippet Rise from the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden at the Smithsonian Institution’s museum of international modern and contemporary art, in Washington, D.C. School buses take participants around to Domo and other pieces too far to walk comfortably to. Go to the website for more on hiking, biking, and sculpture van tours, all designed by the heirs of a vodka fortune as unique ways to experience Tippet Rise. Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers last week at a  neighbors barbecue kicking off the new season. THIS YEAR,  the complex welcomes back the Yellowstone Bighorn Research Association (YBRA ) for the sixth annual Geo-Paleo Tours of Tippet Rise. We took one of these specialized tours last season and enjoyed learning about geological and paleontological features scattered across the art center. Tippet Rise is uniquely located -- poised at the convergence of two vastly different regions – the Beartooth Mountains and the Great Plains. Knowledgeable guides take tour participants in vans with short hikes to various phenomena. Tours  are three upcoming Thursdays – July 11, 18, and Aug. 1 – beginning at 9 a.m., and lasting under three hours.  SCULPTURE Van art tours are also available and we highly recommend!  Then the weekend of Aug. 3 – 4, Tippet Rise presents three separate events in collaboration with guests including poet Jenny Xie, photographer James Florio, and actor and professor Dr. Ben Leubner. Stephen Talasnik's "Satellite No. 5: Pioneer" incorporates space, and the artist's desire to show connection to land and our roots. THE WORKSHOPS  range from poetry to photography and  literature, and include films and discussions. Xie's is Aug. 3, from 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. The New York-based poet will lead a workshop on the ekphrastic poem—one provoked by a work of art.   Xie is at Tippet Rise for a weeklong residency. She is the author of "Eye Level," a finalist for the National Book Award and is recipient of the Walt Whitman Award of the Academy of American Poets. Patrick Dougherty's "Daydreams" enraptures visitors, with its artful curves and detail. Also Aug. 3, Tippet Rise’s longtime collaborator and artist-in-residence, photographer James Florio will present a screening of "James Florio at Tippet Rise," followed by a Q&A with the film’s director Jeffrey Peixoto. This 17-minute documentary follows James as he moves through the radical landscape of Tippet Rise, struggling against the elements to create images of expressive power. ON SUNDAY , Aug. 4, actor and MSU professor  Ben Leubner returns to Tippet Rise for a literature recital at 11 am. Outdoors at Xylem, Leubner will recite Elizabeth Bishop’s 1971 dramatic monologue “Crusoe in England,” followed by an excerpt from Virginia Woolf’s 1931 novel, "The Waves," moving to the Olivier Music Barn. Cookie & Keller in front of Stephen Talasnik's "Galaxy."  THE RANGE of artists includes well known names new to tippet rise as well as "regulars" such as pianists Julien Brocal, Marc-André Hamelin, Anne-Marie McDermott, and Yevgeny Sudbin, violinist Jennifer Frautschi, cellists Christopher Costanza, Sterling Elliott, Arlen Hlusko, and Nina Lee, and flutist Jessica Sindell. Baroque Music Montana and mezzo-soprano Ema Nikolovska, pianists Jean-Efflam Bavouzet, Kunal Lahiry, and Evren Ozel, and a host of top orchestral string, reed and horn players also make their debut. Reservations for all are available on Tippet Rise events page. Don't despair if what you'd like is sold out. Check for cancellations and try to book something else. Cancellation tickets for the sold-out concert are posted.    FOR BOOKINGS or information: tippetrise.org Always with a smile, and kindness for all, John Speight celebrated his March birthday with us more than once. UP NEXT:  Next week, before a celebration of his life, we salute a dear friend and fellow traveler who passed away after a heroic seven-month battle with cancer. John Speight was a Yorkshire  farmer, a devoted student of travel, a genial family man, prodigious reader -- especially of travel books and literature -- and a lifelong animal lover.  He raised many dogs and horses through his years, and had a gentle touch with all creatures. He will be deeply missed by us, his widow Sue, his children and legions of friends met on their international travels. More about John and our long friendship and adventures together.