Finishing touches are complete as the Alberta Bair Theater, formerly the Fox Theatre, opens its doors  once again. The 1931 building celebrates its 90th birthday with a grand reopening and gala concert. The Fox Theater, after the first renovation, circa 1990, and before the most recent "redo." BUILDING'S 90TH BIRTHDAY, GALA CONCERT CELEBRATE A TOWN'S PERFORMING ARTS LEGACY AND A TALENTED DIRECTOR WHO HEPED SAVE IT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER, and courtesy ABT, 20th Century Fox, archives of CM HISTORY IS made this week with the grand “reopening” of the Alberta Bair Theater in downtown Billings, Montana. The $13.6 million renovation salutes the building's 90-year history. Broadway star Kristin Chenoweth headlines a gala  concert in an evening of nostalgia and celebration. Kristin Chenoweth will sing at a gala concert at the ABT.  For me and thousands of others, the ABT will always be “the Fox.” For here as a wide-eyed youngster, I heard many of the great artists of the 20th Century.  In this 1931 building – and the slightly older Babcock -- I developed my love of the performing arts. As a child, I was spellbound at cellist Gregor Piatigorsky, violinist Yascha Heifetz, singers Paul Robeson and Marian Anderson. Community Concerts hosted a string of Metropolitan Opera stars, dancers, singers, jazz greats Tony Bennett, Harry James and Mel Torme.   AS A YOUNG reporter and arts reviewer,    I interviewed legions of these performers in the shabby basement green room: Virgil Fox, Robert Merrill, Alvin Ailey, Bella Lewitzsky, Martha Graham, Arthur Fiedler, so many more.   The all-male Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo sold out a pair of performances.   I GREW UP with "our Fox," one of hundreds of movie palaces named for film mogul William Fox, whose empire numbered into hundreds nationwide. WHEN I  launched the campaign to save the building in 1976, I recruited many of my newspaper sources -- museum and library heads, professors, actors,  ranchers, bankers. We were fortunate to woo talented director Skip Lundby as manager and artistic director during my 10-year tenure as president of Fox Committee. His vision, dedication and genius in directing and producing on a shoestring turned the corner for the building's salvation. To save money, he made a small "apartment" in the Fox, sleeping in the projection booth, heating hotdogs on stage lights.  The 1931 Fox Theater, above, and below left.       Skip Lundby's passion for the arts and the building helped save it for posterity.   SKIP -- like myself -- was  sentimental about the venerable old building  and wanted to save it from the wrecker's ball.  Many  artistic tastes were sharpened here and Skip and the rest of my Fox Committee shared this passion. Not a single person declined to join the cause to "Save the Fox," and quickly, initial opponents of the project were clamoring to join the board. It became a "fashionable" cause. The Fox Committee took over utilities at the building which Carisch Theaters was still running as a movie house. We struggled to book a regular "imported "season, and did so, including two sold-out showsof  Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo. Our first big locally produced show was in 1977, the charming "I Do! I Do!" for which  I played pit piano, enticing my old friend and violin teacher Jim O'Brien, to conduct. My late husband Bruce Meyers and Cathy Hansen played the leads. Skip directed. Our wonderful orchestra included then Billings Symphony concertmaster Eloise Kirk and  with our own private funds, Bruce and I offered a small stipend. I charmed the musicians and they loved the musical's storyline. Once again, no one said no to me.  Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Meyers in period garb for "Our Town."   Alberta Bair wanted to name the building Bair Family Theater but we convinced her to honor herself.  WE SOLD OUT  a three-night run, followed by "Promises, Promises," "The Fantasticks," "Man of La Mancha," "Our Town," and many other shows, all directed by Skip. Every show featured respected local actors and musicians, always including Bruce. I conducted, did  musical arranging, played piano and beat the drum at the Gazette to encourage support. IN 1979 , I approached two of the smartest people I knew -- Hewes Agnes and Ray Hart -- to lead a  fundraising charge. Our now non-profit Fox organization had an abundance of artistic acumen but needed business direction to raise $5.6 to renovate the building. (That was less than half the cost of this latest renovation but a daunting sum 42 years ago with the economy in a serious slump.) Proud 80-year history  Christene "Cookie" Meyers was honored by Dana Gioia and the National Endowment for the Arts for her tireless efforts to "save the Fox." (Gioia was NEA chairman.) Hewes and Ray came aboard, recruited Larry Martin and other bright minds, and formed the Fox Corporation, later naming it after Alberta Bair. That same summer, Bruce and I took out a second mortgage on our home, via friend Bob Waller, CEO of then Midland Bank. Jazz great Dave Brubeck played the Fox Theater helping turn the fundraising corner in 1979 . We needed $25,000 to secure Dave Brubeck and The American Conservatory Theatre of San Francisco. It was a gamble, but Bob believed in our cause. On four warm days, summer of 1979, we sold out three ACT performances and Brubeck’s packed one-night run. THE ACT WON  a Tony that fall for best regional theater and its director William Ball thanked Billings, Montana, and the Fox, for the warm hospitality. Brubeck was still in his prime, soon to be awarded a Kennedy Center honor. When I interviewed him during intermission in the seedy Fox dressing room I wore two hats: concert reviewer and president of Save the Fox. I asked him to plug the campaign and when he came back on stage, he gave a rousing plea, "You must save this theater," which was greeted with thunderous applause, cheers, whistles. The next week Skip and I opened the mail to several thousand dollars in donations. (Badly needed because our AC had just failed and in winter, we wore our coats for lobby meetings because we couldn't afford the heat bill.) LUNDBY CONTINUED  living on a shoestring inside the theater, a modern day phantom of the opera. The TV dinners he warmed on the stage footlights provided scant nourishment. He was often cold despite sheltering in the projection booth --  warmest corner of the drafty1931 building. He wore layers to bed. But he was beaming and I was one proud Cookie in 1987 at the first gala reopening. Later, Dana Gioia visited as head of the National Endowment for the Arts, joining opera friend Doug Nagel and a packed house in honoring me. I praised Skip's efforts to the sell-out crowd and treasure that evening while I await this latest party. So come celebrate with me. Long live the arts. Long live the ABT. Long live “the Fox." Photographer Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers cap an autumn drive through lovely Yellowstone Park. UP NEXT :  Yellowstone National Park in autumn. Right now is our favorite time to visit the nation's first national park.  The air is crisp and clean, the sun shines brightly but is not too warm, and critters are on the move. Consider driving through at least part of this national treasure. And if you're too far away, pull up a seat as a time-honored armchair traveler.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The Sacajawea Inn in Three Forks, Montana, honors one of the most revered women in the history of the United States. Whether spelled with a "j" or a "g," dozens of parks, museums, halls and mountains are named after the famous guide, interpreter and friend of Lewis and Clark. The structures of Fort Clatsop were simple. Two large buildings were surrounded by large walls. Most of the men lived in one structure, while Lewis, Clark,  Sacagawea, her husband Toussaint Charbonneau, and their son, Jean Baptiste, stayed in the other. INDIAN WOMAN'S  TALENTS, SKILLS  SAVED THE FAMOUS JOURNEY FROM DISASTER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE DARING AND bravery of the Lewis and Clark Expedition live on in the West, 216 years after the Corps of Discovery explored the rugged terrain between St. Louis and the Pacific Ocean. While these two smart and daring men deserve accolades -- along with President Jefferson who engineered the trip -- the true hero of the long and arduous journey was the multi-lingual Shoshone woman. For it was she who  helped chart the trail, making invaluable inroads with native people encountered along the way. The lobby of the Sacajawea Hotel (spelled with a "j") in Three Forks offers western hospitality in understated elegance. SACAGAWEA -- a member of the Lemhi Shoshone tribe --was only 16 when drafted into service.  She proved herself an able guide, interpreter, peace maker and medicine woman, gathering important documents, tools, and medicines, while taking care of an infant son. During negotiations with the Shoshones for horses, she was reunited with her brother. WERE IT NOT for her finesse, quick thinking and multiple talents in  wilderness survival, historians believe the expedition might have failed.  Surely, she kept it from disaster, advising Lewis and Clark on the route, introducing the explorers to native people, suggesting the best places to camp. Her knowledge helped the expedition navigate mountain passes in the vast Louisiana Territory. Her prowess as a guide and interpreter complimented her diplomacy in encountering people along the way.  Her contributions altered the course of history in this daring search for a route over the Rockies to the Pacific Ocean. The Sacajawea Interpretive Center tells the story of the Corps of Discovery and stresses the important role that Sacajawea played. TO RECOGNIZE her importance, dozens of parks, museums, mountains and even a posh Montana inn are named after the skillful and multi-talented woman.  In Montana, the historic Sacajawea Hotel (spelled with a "j" not a "g") offers history and old-fashioned charm accented by contemporary amenities, fine dining and luxurious accommodations. Front desk clerk and amiable concierge Alex Kyser keeps everything running smoothly at the Sacajawea Hotel . We met guests from Vermont, Florida, Arizona and Italy during our two-day visit capping an  American Cruise Lines journey on the Lewis and Clark trail.   WE SIPPED  welcome champagne in the elegant lobby, which offers understated western ambiance. An attentive concierge, Alex, manned  the front desk, and gave us the menu to contemplate our dinner choices at the excellent restaurant. For more than a century, the Three Forks, Montana, inn has welcomed travelers from around the globe. The hotel is a major downtown attraction. Tourists use it as a base to explore nearby Lewis and Clark Caverns and the "three forks" of the rivers.  Here the Jefferson, Gallatin and Madison rivers join to form the great Missouri. The skills and diplomacy of Sacagawea likely saved the expedition from disaster.  Our 10-day Lewis and Clark odyssey ended at "the Sac," as it is affectionately known. The imposing hotel attracts history aficionados, outdoorsmen and travelers accustomed to comfort and pampering, including morning coffee and homemade banana bread.    A young "Pomp" carried by his now famous mother . HOW TO PRONOUNCE and spell that famous name? Is it Sacajawea or Sacagawea? The latter is the most widely used spelling, pronounced with a hard "g" sound. Most of us grew up spelling and pronouncing it with a soft "g" or "j" sound. Both spellings and pronunciations are recognized. Lewis and Clark's  journals mention Sacagawea by name seventeen times but spelled in eight different ways.   SACAJAWEA HISTORICAL  State Park and the Pasco, Washington, ("j" spelling here) offers a wonderful interpretive center  honoring the woman whose quiet, peaceful ways helped establish the explorers as friends, not foes coming to conquer.   Her presence as a woman helped dispel notions to the Native tribes that the company intended to capture or harm, and confirmed the peacefulness of their mission. Her young son, Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau, became America's youngest explorer. "Pomp" was cared for and educated by Clark after his mother's untimely death following the birth of her daughter.  She was only 25.  MORE INFO : www.sacajaweahotel.com ; www.americancruiselines.com ; www.sacajaweacenter.org     Trapeze artistry is at its finest in the Santos Family, a high- flying quartet of gifted women who thrill the audience. UP NEXT:  Welcome to the Big Top as we visit the Zoppe Italian Family Circus, on tour in the United States and in residence now at Redwood City, California.  Clowns, contortionists, acrobats, dancing dogs and more await sell-out audiences in a spectacular, old-fashioned circus show.   Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at travel, the arts, cruising, families, nature, pets and life on the road. We appreciate sharing the links and telling friends and like-minded people about www.whereiscookie.com

Acrobats and trapeze artists exhibit their prowess and daring in a jaw-dropping act. Zoppe Italian Family Circus is on tour in California, then on to Arizona and beyond. LIVELY, FUN FAMILY SHOWHARKENS BACK TO THE DAYSOF THE TOURING CIRCUS OF YORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Enjoying the circus pre-show, from left: Bruce Keller ("Uncle KK,") James Ganner, Christene Meyers ("Auntie Cookie") and Penelope Ganner. THE ZOPPE FAMILY'S touring circus is a delightful throw-back to the circuses of childhood. The elements of magic and surprise are time honored themes as a global assemblage of performers entertains and delights. One could call it a true "dog and pony show" for horses and pups are indeed part of the act, along with mimes, acrobats, trapeze artists, sword balancers and a charming clown -- plus more -- much more. The remarkably old fashioned yet polished and contemporary Zoppe Circus dates back 179 years to a collaboration of French, Hungarian and Italian performers who launched the production. Legend says a young couple -- both performers -- fell in love and launched the now famous touring troupe. The talented ringmaster opens the show, with his faithful sidekick, clown Nino, behind him and the full house. The company takes in the applause of a standing ovation, with baby Ilario Fabrizio Luigino Zoppe, the ensemble's newest member, sixth generation. THE PRODUCTION honors centuries old circus traditions: thrills, chills, charm, humor, surprise and -- always -- magic. We treated our great-niece and nephew, Penelope and James Ganner, to the Big Top in Redwood City during opening weekend of the Zoppe run. Jugglers, musicians, jesters, horses and multiple generations of the cheerful troupe greeted us as we strolled toward the tent for the 6 p.m. Sunday show, the last of three performances that day. (The company takes only Monday and Tuesday off, and bunks behind the circus in a compound of trailers.) THE CIRCUS theme changes yearly and the 2021 theme is "La Vita Nuova, the New Life." Ringmaster and mime Mace Perlman explained that coming back from the pandemic has special meaning to the performers. "As we create a new life ahead, we are reminded to take things lightly, to appreciate as much as we can." How true, we thought, as we sat with our beloved little ones, surrounded by other families and friends. Contortion acts are part of the show, with body-bending moves. The Zoppé family is constantly importing new people -- and new life. Young performers learn the ropes early. Even the company's newest member was on stage. Ilario Fabrizio Luigino Zoppé -- born in April in Guanajuato, Mexico -- and has been part of the acts since his four-month birthday. Actor and ringmaster Mace Perlman, a classically trained mime, is a circus veteran, who studied and performed under Marcel Marceau in Paris, and later under Giorgio Strehler at his Piccolo Teatro in Milan. Ringmaster Mace Perlman, a classically- trained mime, studied with famed mime Marcel Marceau in Paris. He is also a fine actor. Giovanni Zoppé, who plays Nino the Clown, is a 6th generation performer, son of Alberto Zoppe, who performed into his 80s and is much revered. FORMER OLYMPIC Diving Team members from the Russian State Circus, are among the many pros in the company. Belarusian brothers Mikhail and Alexei Drozdov joined Russian born Illya Alikov for a thrilling Russian bar act. It had me gripping my nephew's arm in fear of a fall. THEN MORE thrills with fifth-generation circus artist, Mexican born German Rodogell in a daring sword balancing act. More gripping of my nephew's arm as Wisconsin-born Disa Carneol took fearlessly to a swinging trapeze. The talented aerialist has performed worldwide -- as have most of the seasoned troupe -- thrilling audiences from Shanghai to San Francisco and Sao Paulo. Poodles are part of the fun, and some are rescue dogs. Clown Nino was a huge audience hit, working the entire house with juggling, physical humor and clever commentary to the ringmaster's feigned impatience. Actor Giovanni Zoppe is a non-stop delight with an expressive face made for clowning! Smiling and in complete control, a Zoppe rider thrills the crowd with her expert talents and beautiful maneuvering. WE AND OUR kids are animal lovers, and Penelope is a talented rider, so the dog and horse acts thrilled us all. Doggies jumped through hoops, danced and formed an endearing conga line then an expert rider managed two spirited horses with grace and control. She even rode atop a pair of horses -- one leg on each -- and rode backwards and upside down without incident. This is a dog and pony show of exemplary quality and good, old-fashioned entertainment value. Tickets are reasonably priced and many kinds of refreshments are available, plus an opportunity to be photographed with the horses. WHAT WE LOVED most about the circus was seeing it with family, remembering the circus shows we older folks enjoyed as kids. Hats off and paws and hoofs up, all around! IF YOU GO: Zoppe is in Redwood City through Nov. 21. Tickets may be purchased at the box office or on redwoodcity.org/residents/redwood-city-events/zoppe-italian-family-circus If you miss the Bay Area performance run, the Zoppe company is headed for Arizona with stops in Chandler, Dec. 9-19, and Tempe, Dec. 23-Jan. 3 of 2022. Check out zoppe.net/schedule-tickets/ "The Last Ship" at the Ahmanson Theater in Los Angeles was the last show Cookie and Keller saw before "pandemic purgatory." After months without theater, it's back now with a full season at many Los Angeles and San Diego venues. UP NEXT: After nearly 20 months without our usual full docket of live theater offerings, we are thrilled to have a series of well received productions on line. It's wonderful to be part of the audience once again. Southern California is "back on the boards" with a full slate of offerings now through the winter months and into next summer. It's a wondrous, thrilling time for theater junkies including the whereiscookie staff. We take a look at what's on stage from San Diego to Palm Springs, Carlsbad, Los Angeles and more, remembering to explore, learn and live. And do catch us each week for a fresh spin on theater and the arts, travel, family, nature, health and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The eerie and colorful formations of the Lewis and Clark Caverns await inspection. CLIMB INTO THE MYSTERIOUS WORLD OF LIMESTONE CAVERNS That's Cookie (with Nicky)peering through the Caverns entry billboard. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie bundles up for a moist walk through Lewis and Clark Caverns near Whitehall, Mt. STEP INTO a magical world inside a series of extraordinary caves. But, please, watch your head. And bring a sweater. You'll be bending and ducking -- and you might be chilly. Even in summer, the Lewis and Clark Caverns are 48 degrees Fahrenheit. The breathtaking natural wonder is near Three Forks, Montana, a series of moist caves -- formed long ago by groundwater in beds of limestone. THE CAVES date to the Mississippian age -- from a sea present in the area around an astonishing 325 to 365 million years ago. Fast forward past this mind-boggling data, through years of shifting and seismic change, to the late 19th Century. Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park receives visitors from all over the world, who usually take in Yellowstone National Park as well as other northern Rockies sights. Charles Brooke and Mexican John, both from Whitehall, discovered the cave entrance in 1882. They had heard of the great caves from local Indian legend and set out to look for them. They did not tell many people about their find, so it is not an "official" discovery. Ten years later, two hunters noticed a plume of steam coming out of the cave. They were Tom Williams and Burt Pannell, who are credited with discovering the wonder in the relatively recent year of 1892. Although famed explorers Lewis and Clark had been very near in both 1805 and 1806, they did not discover the mysterious, magical caverns, within a couple hours' horseback ride from their encampments. Lively commentary from well informed guides makes the cavern journey one of learning as well as fun. But because they were so near -- along nearby Antelope Creek, a Jefferson River tributary -- the accomplishments of their remarkable journey impressed President Theodore Roosevelt and he named them in their honor. He noted that their journey took them within a few miles of the historic place east of Whitehall, Montana. THE EXPLORERS would probably be happy to know that the caverns they came so near became Montana's first state park. Montanans have been exploring the caves for over 100 years, proud to claim the largest known limestone cavern systems in the northwest and one of the few in the U.S. WE BASED our expedition at the nearby Sacajawea Hotel in Three Forks, knowing that the spectacular geological stop would tie in with our visit to Yellowstone National Park. We enjoyed the ride on US 287 through the backroads of the Madison Valley. THEN JACKETS over our arms, we journeyed into the impressive geological features: stalactites, stalagmites, helictites and columns, some named for people and characters. The caverns are fascinating and elaborate, with a guided tour offered several times a day. Sign up is required. While the naming of Montana's Lewis and Clark Caverns was inspired by the journey of the famous explorers, one feels like a modern day explorer entering the dark and moist caves. Viewing the caverns is a guided, two-mile breezy hike in an environment of natural underground air-conditioning. Tours are given daily throughout the summer. You may also camp, hike and bike on 10 miles of trails. You'll register through the park system which also boasts interpretive displays, two visitor centers, gift shop, and snack and beverage options. OUR WELL informed ranger took us on an interesting tour of the caverns, then we explored more of the additional 3,000 acres of this almost mile-high Jefferson County attraction. If you are afraid of enclosed places, sometimes slippery footing, or descending below the earth, this might not be the place for you. And if you're at all claustrophobic, you may want to pass on this outing and stick to the visitor centers or a pleasant hike above ground. Special holiday tours by candlelight offer a moody, beautifully lit way to enjoy the caverns in December. FRIENDS WHO were reluctant to enter anything dark or "closed off," declined to take the tour with us. But we felt comfortable entering the caves, feeling safe by staying close to the guide. Gripping my husband's belt with my hand, I didn't trip on the little dips and bends in the walkway. But we'd practiced for this -- in caverns in Malta, New Zealand, Vietnam, Scotland and other places. "Cool caves," we call them. SEASON AND HOURS. The park is open all year, except for a couple days. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec. 25 and Jan. 1. Special Holiday Candlelight Tours of Lewis and Clark Caverns will be offered Dec. 17, 18, and 19 and Dec. 21, 22 and 23. mt.gov/stateparks/lewis-and-clark-caverns/ UP NEXT: Elvis Presley's legacy lives on in a one-woman presentation by Priscilla Presley, who was married to the legendary singer from 1967 to 1973. She appears this week in Palm Springs. Mention the name and people are still fascinated by the legendary singer Elvis Presley. Oscar's, a lively Palm Springs cabaret, and its inventive producer/owner Dan Gore are celebrating his life in its continuing "Intimate Evening" series. Presley's only wife, actress Priscilla Presley, appears Nov. 11, to talk about her life with the singer, whom she married in May of 1967. Tickets are still available, at various levels, including a "meet and greet" with Ms. Presley, an actress and entrepreneur who made Graceland famous. Then we spotlight the world's only LGBTQ mariachi band, touring from its Los Angeles base. We talk with the players, whom we enjoyed at a sell-out Oscar's performance. Mariachi Acoiris de Los Angeles is a ground-breaking ensemble with ambitious goals and a brave history. It is critically acclaimed for its authentic mariachi sound and precise musical renditions. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly: www.whereiscookie.com

The Palm Springs home of Elvis and Priscilla Presley is a Celebrity Tours stop. Priscilla Presley   talks about the couple's time in the famous home when she presents a one-woman show and chats about her life with "The King" tonight at Oscar's, Palm Springs.  The home is featured on tours, too.   'The King' lives on in legend as Priscilla Presley shares their life stories in the couple's honeymoon town where tourists from around the world visit their "honeymoon home." ELVIS PRESLEY'S ONLY WIFE PRESENTS INTIMATE MEMOIR OF HER LIFE WITH 'THE KING' STORY by CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS by BRUCE KELLER and courtesy of Graceland, the Elvis Presley Estate THE MYSTIQUE  of Elvis Presley continues to inspire awe, curiosity and new generations of fans years after his 1977 death. Admirers of all ages have an opportunity to find out more about him in an evening with his only wife, Priscilla Presley, now 76 and touring an engaging show with images and commentary. The show, said Presley, "gives me an opportunity to connect with my fans, to celebrate Elvis, and for people to maybe learn something they didn't know about Elvis." Oscar's talented Dan Gore has a long love of Hollywood lore, and says the Palm Springs mystique is alive and well. OSCAR'S, A LIVELY cabaret in the center of Palm Springs, California, is next on Presley's tour with a Nov. 11, show.  "I'm excited to be there," she says, about the inventive cabaret, known for its tea dances, lively shows and LGBTQ-friendly environment. Palm Springs has a long connection to Hollywood, from the days when studios demanded their stars be able to return quickly to Los Angeles for editing, rehearsals, photo shoots. Thus Palm Springs became a popular close-by get-away -- a calm, rejuvenating, relaxing, sunny alternative to the smog and bustle of Los Angeles.  "The mystique continues," says Dan Gore, owner of Oscar's. GORE HAS garnered international attention for Oscar's inventive programming, with a focus on gay and trans entertainment. A creative menu and attentive service kick things up a notch, all thanks to Gore's show-biz savvy.  He is a veteran Hollywood producer, whose cabaret shows, dances and weekend brunches are a hit with locals and tourists alike. Elvis and Priscilla Presley admire their infant daughter, the couple's only child, born  in 1968. PRISCILLA'S LIFE with Elvis began Sept. 13, 1959, during Presley's much publicized Army career. The two met at a party at his home in Bad Nauheim, Germany. Hers was a military family and she was only 14 years old -- ten years younger than 24-year old Elvis. They kept in touch and Priscilla Beaulieu married Elvis Presley eight years later when nearing her 22nd birthday. Elvis and Priscilla had a 10-year age difference.   Her presentation, "Elvis and Me:  An Intimate Evening With Priscilla Presley," includes anecdotes about their courtship, including her dream of living on a horse ranch. But although smitten, she says, "I hadn't considered marrying one of the world's most famous rock stars." She'll tell the Oscar's crowd that she knew she was in love when "the king" waved goodbye to her as he left his station in Germany to return to the states. Graceland has become a successful enterprise with Priscilla Presley's guidance and business sense. Below, she's with Leslie Nielsen in "The Naked Gun."  "He told me he'd be looking for me," Presley remembers. Her presentation includes home movies and photographs of their life together, plus a question and answer period. Elvis Presley's life with Priscilla is on tap at Oscar's Thursday. "HE ALSO told me, 'I don't want any sad faces. I want a smile.' Just seeing him walk up the stairs, I realized my life would be empty without him." Elvis and Priscilla were married for five years before they separated in 1972 and divorced the following year. He passed away five years later, in August of 1977. His possessive nature and her youth may have played into their  separation, but they remained friends and she has developed her own fan base. "I miss him very much, as many people do," said Presley, who crafted a successful life on film and TV as well as in the corporate world.  She is known for her business acumen and loyalty to her fans, whom she meets for presentations, tours and celebrations at Graceland.  HER INVENTIVE  spirit and enduring affection for Elvis and his legacy have helped perpetuate the late star’s music sales and have made Graceland a world renowned mansion-turned-museum. Graceland, the Elvis’ estate is still profitable four-plus decades after his death and Elvis is among the top highest-earning dead celebrities, along with Michael Jackson, Prince, Bing Crosby, Dr. Seuss and Arnold Palmer. Through Priscilla's shrewd business sense, his estate made more money this year than the singer had the year he died. And she has crafted a successful acting career, in "Dallas," "The Naked Gun" and many other shows. More info about the Palm Springs Presley show and ticket options including a dinner-show package  and a meet-greet with Ms. Presley:  oscarspalmsprings.com ; priscillapresley.com ; Palm Springs Celebrity Tours: comfy fan, hotel pick-up, three hours, 50 celebrity homes, including Elvis & Priscilla's honeymoon home, 760 895-8005.    UP NEXT:  The energy of Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles prompted applause and standing ovations at a recent sell-out concert at Oscar's in Palm Springs. The world's only LGBTQ mariachi band is touring its sell-out show. We were delighted to be in the audience at Oscar's, Palm Springs for Mariachi Acoiris de Los Angeles. We take you inside this ground-breaking group, with a look at its ambitious goals and brave history, noting the precision of the players, their acclaimed, authentic sound and passion for acceptance. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on the arts, nature, travel, family and changing times: www.whereiscookie.com

Founder and band leader of Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles, Carlos Samaniego, is a talented, classically trained musician who formed the world's first LGBTQ mariachi band. AMBASSADORS FOR ACCEPTANCE: WORLD CLASS GAY, TRANS ARTISTS ENTERTAIN AT OSCAR'S PALM SPRINGS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Natalia Marie Melendez is a first-rate mariachi musician, the world's first trans woman player in the genre. IMAGINE A GIFTED young violinist -- gay, Hispanic, bullied as a kid. Picture this talented guy dreaming of forming his own band as he experiences discrimination, derision and bullying. Then imagine the courage it took to organize such a group, an unorthodox ensemble of top quality musicians. The dream is a reality now, as Mariachi Arcoiris is gaining an international reputation, emerging brilliantly and distinctly apart from and beyond the macho world of Mexican folk music. THIS IS no movie script or fairytale. It's the true, real-life story of mariachi musician, Carlos Samaniego. He directs this unique ensemble, which boasts an all-LGBTQ lineup -- including the world's first trans woman mariachi player. The group is getting raves around the country with Samaniego also singing and playing lead violin as the ensemble's concert master. Individuality and diversity are the trademarks of the colorful ensemble and its players. Arcoiris, which means rainbow in Spanish, embodies Samaniego's love for the beloved musical genre held in reverence in Hispanic culture. Says Samaniego, "It is a beloved genre in our culture -- distinct, powerful, dramatic -- a staple at Mexican events and celebrations." HAVING HEARD my share of mediocre mariachi in hotels and folk festivals in Mexico, I was completely unprepared for a recent, flawless concert at Oscar's in Palm Springs, California. Oscar's owner, Dan Gore, invited the group after it garnered lively publicity for playing three gigs in May in the Los Angeles area. Gore lived many years in Los Angeles and heard of the gifted ensemble during celebrations for the Cinco de Mayo holiday. The music and its message appealed to Gore, whose Oscar's programming encourages acceptance and honors the rainbow theme Carlos Samaniego founded and directs Mariachi Arcoiris. espoused by supporters of the gay community. Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles is the brainchild of Samaniego, who studied classical violin and singing and has a 20-year history with the gay music industry. He talked engagingly about growing up in a macho culture, being a "different kid," and wanting to share his talents in an environment that accepted his sexuality and saw him as a fine musician. Mariachi Arcoiris (Rainbow Mariachi) is available for tours, bookings. Oscar's has a new chef and tasty menu options. SUCCESSFUL GIGS at a gay Latino cowboy nightclub gave him and others a leg up, but the machismo continued and became depressing. So by 2014, Samaniego formed a 10-member group identifying itself as "lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, non-binary, asexual and pansexual," Samaniego said. ACCORDING TO Gore, "There's a real need for a platform for this caliber of entertainment." Oscar's is known for its programming diversity, welcoming a heavily gay audience for its drag cabaret, brunches, strip shows and tea dances. It's a place where people feel safe on both sides of the footlights, and because of this has a loyal, supportive clientele. Oscar's owner Dan Gore runs the lights for productions, here for the mariachi band. Natalia Marie Melendez is the world's first transgender woman mariachi musician. The Lawndale resident has joined the ensemble for Pride celebrations around California and hopes her speaking out is "a positive moving force in the world -- not just for us, but for generations to come." As the world's only transgender female that plays mariachi music, she says, "It's been difficult. There is a definite machismo culture in mariachi." There was no machismo the night we heard these splendid mariachis. The appreciative crowd leapt to its feet in immediate standing ovation, begging an encore after Samaniego announced the finale. So of course there was another number. EACH MEMBER of the troupe performed a cameo, show-case number -- some singing, some instrumental, in a range of repertoire than included "The Impossible Dream," from "Man of LaMancha." The audience sipped and supped through the relaxing, well tuned evening and buoyed by the evening's success, Gore said he hopes to book the ensemble again. MORE INFORMATION, to book the mariachi band or an Oscar's reservation: www.mariachiarcoiris.com; www.oscarspalmsprings.com Keller and Cookie give thanks for being vaccinated, for being together, and able to travel and enjoy the world. UP NEXT: Thanksgiving is a time for reflection and appreciation. For Cookie and Keller, Thanksgiving has been "on the road" for their 14 years together -- sometimes with family in California, Oregon, Montana or Georgia, sometimes in Europe or Asia, maybe seeing a show in Las Vegas or New York. It's also a time for memories of family-friends Thanksgivings in a happy Norman Rockwell world of long ago. More on a nostalgic Thanksgiving Day when we publish our weekly post -- a fresh spin on travel, cruising, nature, family and the arts. Please share the links: www.whereiscookie.com HAPPY THANKSGIVING! May we carry the spirit of kindness into the holidays of December, giving thanks for our life on Earth, our friends, family, talents, travels and many blessings.

Morro Rock stands imposingly and majestically in the waters, as it has for centuries, welcoming tourists and modern-day explorers. The rock is beloved by locals for its lore and ancient history. A regal seagull checks out the surf near Morro Rock. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AN ANCIENT landmark, revered by native people and photographed by tourists, greets curious visitors and charms locals in Morro Bay, Calif. Explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo named the towering 476-foot rock known by sailors as an imposing navigational aid. It stands sentinel above the entrance to Morro Bay. Cabrillo's "discovery" was made during his voyage up the California coast in 1542 --50 years after Columbus made his famous voyage to the new world on the other side of the country. Cookie and Keller enjoy a bay stroll near sunset. THOUSANDS of years before, native people fished the rich coastal waters and traversed the land of long-extinct volcanoes which formed the historic landmark. Morro Rock goes back 23 million years. The "Gibraltar of the Pacific," is the last peak of the Nine Sisters, which extend from San Luis Obispo to Morro Bay. The rock was mined until 1963.Still today, there's a feeling of age and mystery about the rock's place on the beautiful bay, shrouded in fog as it often is and looking like a movie backdrop. ONE CAN picture long-ago Spanish galleons, when commerce relied on the sea for transport. Farmers came to work the land, and miners worked the hills and caves. Morro Rock is an imposing sight from the hotel balcony. Located as it is midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, Morro Bay is a stopping off place for us and many others on our drives up the coast from San Diego. California's renowned Pacific Coastal Highway runs right through the center of this quietly satisfying little beach town. Everything seems to center around the beach, where high school students work out and can easily walk to or from their school. Morro Bay is a fishing town. Dozens of privately owned boats on hitches line residential streets and you can't go wrong ordering seafood at the dozen or so popular restaurants. Morro Bay is a fishing and tourist town. The seafood is abundant and delicious everywhere. WE GOT GREAT tips from our hotel check-in clerk at Ascot Suites, a charming, centrally located hotel with an abundance of English country art. We took our happy hour drinks to the rooftop sundeck with a beautiful vista of the bay and rock. We lingered to enjoy a perfect sunset with gorgeous shirt sleeves weather in late October. Locals say the pleasant temperatures last through the holidays. Thousands of people visit Morro Bay each year so there are over a dozen hotels, plenty of B&Bs, and assorted other rentals -- from simple and rustic to plush and expensive. After a day of play on the bay, Bruce Keller enjoys sunset. FOR A TOWN of only 11,000 there is a surprising amount of activity and entertainment. We happened upon live music on the bay -- and asked about the town's other landmark: three large smokestacks. They're from an old power plant and can be seen from almost everywhere in town. We nature lovers delighted in the wildlife, too. We saw harbor seals, sea lions, sea otters, snowy plovers and peregrine falcons which nest on Morro Rock. More info: morrochamber.org; ascotsuites.com Gran Olive's filled date and mincemeat cookies. We'll share her recipe next week. Please "tune in." UP NEXT: A non-baker finds courage to restore a family tradition: making Christmas cookies, grandmother's recipe no less. After a day of kitchen duty for Cookie, Keller is munching his way through the holidays with the results. We share a favorite family recipe -- my grandmother's delicious date and mincemeat filled cookies. We also travel the globe in search of foodie fun to celebrate the holidays in style with other cultures. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at family, travel, cruising, nature, the arts and more. Please share the link and tell your friends: www.whereiscookie.com

Hawaii's fourth largest island, Kauai, is captured from high above the coast in an Air Ventures plane. SMALL PLANE, GREAT NARRATIVE WITH BIRD'S EYE VIEWS OF GARDEN ISLE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The "Garden Isle" of Kauai as photographed from an Air Ventures Airvan, with large windows and fabulous views. SOARING HIGH above the land where the musical "South Pacific" was filmed, we could feel the "sunlight on the sand, moonlight on the sea." The mangoes and bananas the sailors in the movie sang about were out of sight. It had rained earlier in the day, giving a gleaming patina to the hills. The sun flirted with us -- muted part of the time, with rainbows surrounding us. But it was a gloriously sunny day for a few treasured moments. WE WERE truly "somewhere over the rainbow" as we flew high above the lushest of the Hawaiian chain, the "Garden Island" of Kauai. The nurses help Mitzi Gaynor "Wash That Man Right Out of My Hair" on Lumaha'i Beach. --photo courtesy 20th Century Fox We signed up for one of this verdant island's most popular air tours. There are several, but our choice was "The Big Kahuna," a delightful hour soaring above the clouds, wrapped in the splendor of some of the world's most spectacular scenery. In more than 50 visits to Hawaii -- and a dozen plane and helicopter tours -- we've found the Garden Island to have the most breathtaking landscape of the chain. We transited above the subtle curves of Waimea Canyon, admired the majestic Napali Coast -- which we've viewed from the ocean -- and sighed above Lumaha'i Beach, humming tunes from that favorite movie, "South Pacific." ("What ain't we got? We ain't got dames!") Bruce Keller and captain Nate give thumbs up for the spacious GA-8 Airvan which offers spectacular views. Hawaii's fourth largest island -- yes, the "Garden Island," -- earns its moniker. The oldest and northernmost island in the Hawaiian chain is draped in emerald valleys, sharp mountain spires and jagged cliffs, aged by time and the elements. We saw it all. And reveled in the views from above. OUR PILOT Nate gave us a nicely narrated bird’s eye view of the spectacular landscape, with interesting anecdotes. (We didn't know Kauai is the only island not conquered by King Kamehameha as he tried to unite all the Hawaiian Islands.) - Keller and Cookie take a pose before boarding. We had seen the entire island many times by land, so it was fun to see it from the air: the Menehune Fish Pond, the Eucalyptus Tunnel of Trees, Waita Reservoir (the largest reservoir on Kauai), Captain Cook’s Landing in Waimea Town, and the fabled Waimea Canyon. Air Ventures planes offer stunning views, and here, one plane can spot another above the sea. WE WERE humming "Bali Ha'i" as we flew above the majestic Napali coastline and back over Lumaha'i Beach. (Bloody Mary was almost visible!) Then on to Hanalei Valley, with its silvery, cascading waterfalls, and Kilauea Lighthouse with one of the world's largest frigate bird sanctuaries. Mile after mile of stunning coastline and beaches offered visual treats galore. We were sad when we quietly and safely landed, ending a spectacular time. More about this Air Ventures Hawaii, and its options for an exciting view of a beautiful island: kauaiairtour.com Patrick Harry Cosgriffe and his beloved daughter, Christene, born with Down Syndrome and now left without a father. UP NEXT: The sudden death of my baby brother Patrick has rendered me in an depressing state of inertia. I am unable to write anything unrelated to him and our family, so I yield to this suffocating state. The next piece will focus on our beloved Patrick and my namesake, Christena, a Down Syndrome child. I'll use this period of intense grief to write about him and our family's traumas, love, sorrow and considerations for the future of his only child. Thank you for the indulgence. Please remember Patrick, say prayers for Christena's future and continue to love, explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh twist on art, music, history, travel, culture, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

On a blustery but sunny day at Hawaii's Kilauea Volcano, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie"   Meyers take a selfie against the eerie but beautiful landscape of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.  Volcanoes formed the landscape and are still active. PELE'S POWERS, TECTONIC SHIFTS BRING  KILAUEA, MAUNALOA TO MODERN DAY TOURISTS The Kilauea Volcano in all its glory.  photo courtesy Hawaii Volcanoes National Park STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HAWAII'S ACTIVE  volcanoes are constantly causing a stir on The Big Island, where locals are ready for steam, smoke and fire at any time.   Volcano and earthquake hazards occur regularly, so that is always on the mind of the people. Tourists -- including the two of us travel writers and photographers -- make it a point to have a look at these wonders of nature whenever we're in the area. The island's jet-black lava fields, white sand and snowy mountains make a photographer's dream, with hiking trails across a lunar-like landscape, and viewpoints to show it all off. Pele, goddess of volcanoes and fire, is the star of a spectacular  sound and light show at Smith Family Garden Luau. SINCE THE Hawaiian Islands were born of lava flows, it's not surprising that volcanoes are still part of the landscape.  They have long been part of the islands' lore as well. The native Hawaiians revere Pele, goddess of fire and volcanoes, and honor her in sound and light shows across the islands.  The most spectacular one is fittingly on  The Big Island,  where two of the world's most active volcanoes are found. In a dramatic musical story Pele comes alive as the volcano puts on a show at Smith Family Garden Luau.  The creation of the island is dramatically told.   So whether one believes in pure science, or the revered Pele myth, plate tectonics met the goddess with fire, light and dramatic sound effects. In the show, Pele rises above the mountains to create one of the world's most majestic landscapes.   SINCE KILAUEA and Maunaloa volcanoes are both found here, there are national parks to give visitors the updated story and a chance to survey the ever changing landscape. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is about an hour from Hilo on the east side of the island, or two and one-half hours from Hilton Waikoloa Village on the western side of the island. Looking much like forest fire damage, its possible you might see the volcano burn .    Maunaloa last erupted at its summit, in March of 1984. A series of fissures subsequently opened along the Northeast Rift Zone, feeding lava flows that came to within 17 km (11 miles) of Hilo Bay in 5 days. The eruption ended on April 15. Kilauea's last eruption was 1983 with others occurring sporadically into 2018. That last major eruption in 2018 destroyed more than 700 homes and displaced thousands of residents.  Other volcanoes on Hawaii Island include: Maunakea, Hualalai, and Kohala. Our homework revealed that between 1912 and 2012, there were nearly 50 Kīlauea eruptions and 12 Mauna Loa eruptions.Park officials say the summit eruption of Kīlauea Volcano, within Halemaʻumaʻu crater, has continued with minor fluctuations in lava output. Its active lava lake was estimated to be 89 meters (292 feet) when lava emerged on Sept. 29, 2021, not that long ago. Informative guides give lively, scientific information on the volcanic action at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. IT IS NEVER possible to predict the exact date and time of an eruption. Our naturalist guide told us, "Because these are active volcanoes, we can't say when they might blow again." Geophysical measurements indicate that Maunaloa's magma storage system has been recharging since the 1984 eruption. Since 2019, there have been signs of elevated unrest, but the next Maunaloa eruption doesn't appear imminent, our guide added.Hawaii has many remarkable features, including that Maunaloa is the largest active volcano on Earth. She covers an impressive half of the island, rising to 4,170 meters (13,681 feet) above sea level. Her long submarine flanks descend 5 km (3 miles) below sea level to the ocean floor. MAUNALOA, like Kiluea, has a summit caldera and two active rift zones extending from its summit. Eruptions vary from short- to long-lived, and occur at the summit, or radial vents on her north and western flanks. Mauna Loa eruptions can begin with little warning, producing intense lava flows traveling long distances in short periods of time. Villages on the flanks of the volcano are naturally impacted. These tourists admire the landscape of steam and smoke at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island .  THE FASTEST high-volume eruption from Mauna Loa began on June 1, 1950, when fissures opened from the uppermost Southwest Rift Zone, generating a ferocious lava flow that traveled 15 miles, reaching the ocean in less than three hours, shutting down the highway in three places. Hawaii is at the southeast end of a chain of volcanoes that began forming more than 70 million years ago. Each island is made of one or more volcano which erupted on the floor of the Pacific Ocean, emerging above sea level only after countless eruptions. Six volcanoes collaborated over a million ears to create The Big Island.   ENTRANCE  to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park with its excellent visitor center is $30 per vehicle, $25 per motorcycle, $15 per pedestrian or bicyclist. The receipt allows entry for seven days. We happily used our national park senior passes, obtained a few years ago in Yellowstone National Park and much used across the U.S. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a sunny autumn day in Yellowstone National Park. UP NEXT :  Speaking of volcanoes, we're marking a very special birthday this week.  It's the 150th anniversary of the establishment of Yellowstone National Park, a world wonder, sometimes referred to as the Yellowstone Caldera, or Supervolcano. The park's wonder are enjoyed each year by millions of visitors from around the globe.  Although it's mostly in Wyoming, we Montanans claim it, too, and are proud to have three of the five entrances. We'll celebrate this living treasure with Bruce Keller's award-winning photos and a lively look at our visits to this wonderful place. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family, loss, love and more. www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers are greeted with leis at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai, on a romantic get-away. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU -- like most of the rest of the world -- yearn for a tranquil, beautiful place to put aside your worries for a few days, you won't do better than Hawaii's "Garden Isle," Kauai. You won't find a more pampering, relaxing place to nap, read a book, take a hike or recharge the romance in your life than at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai, on picturesque Wailua Bay. We stopped to smell the flowers, which are everywhere. The welcoming inn is only two stories tall -- no building can be taller than the tallest palm tree.  This wise edict was mandated decades ago by the people of this charming island and has preserved its feeling of "country" and untouched beauty. Kauai appetizers:  macadamia nut bread and pineapple, with a bouquet of Hawaiian flowers. WE'VE BEEN coming to Kauai since the 1970s -- separately, because we didn't know one another then, then together the past 15 years.  Each of us has fond memories of Kauai and on this trip together, we agreed that its quiet island charm remains much as it was 50 years ago, particularly at Hilton Garden Inn.  The hotel has a "hands on" staff, trained with the aloha spirit that marks this small island's feeling of hospitality.  Management decrees that guests are to be treated like royalty -- and we were. The hotel's residents include well  fed roosters, patrolling the grounds. ROOM SERVICE was delivered by the amiable marketing director, Sarah Cara, who stayed to visit and make sure our needs were met.  She gave us pointers on nearby attractions, including lovely Lydgate Beach Park, where we took a picnic the next day and enjoyed snorkeling and lazing on the lovely beach. THE HOTEL  is close to Wailua Bay and Opaekaa Falls. The famed Sleeping Giant Trail Head and Fern Grotto are nearby, too. We booked the famous Smith Family Luau, just a five-minute drive away (more later) and easily maneuvered the 15 minutes to Wailua Falls, Kapaa town, and the quiet Lihue Airport, where we'd picked up our baggage outside and found the rental car kiosk within easy walking distance. The hotel's  all-day restaurant, pools with poolside bar, and rooms with balconies and ocean views add to the charm of the place. KAUAI'S BEAUTY goes back eons, when a defect near the middle of the huge Pacific Tectonic Plate allowed molten lava to escape. It emerged, boiling and hissing onto the ocean floor seven miles down. Slowly, land rose until 30 million years ago when a volcano formed Kure Atoll, emerging from the sea into sunlight. The drive north from Kapaa leads to stunning views. Thus Kauai was born, at first much larger than it is today. Crashing waves from trade winds and storms eroded the north shore to form the stunning Napali Coast, with cliffs plunging 3,000 feet into the sea. Dozens of huge fault breaks formed canyons -- Waimea is the deepest and most spectacular -- and dramatic valleys formed along the canyon's eastern slopes. Volcanos, craters, calderas and gorgeous beaches make this beautiful island one of the world's most coveted. Yet it has remained quiet and still has a rural feel if one exits the beaten path. Bruce Keller enjoys an ice cream outside Skinny Mike's in Kauai.  KAPAA IS "the town," an unincorporated community and census-designated place in Kauai County. It is the most populous town on Kauai, with a population just over 11,000. Thus there is no "big city" on the island -- which is fine with us. Kauai is a favorite honeymoon spot. Known for its natural beauty and dramatic sites, it's a place to hide away from it all. We took a day trip to beautiful Waimea Canyon (with its gorgeous Coconut Coast). We enjoyed the islands gorgeous mountains and waterfalls, white sand beaches, sugarcane fields, and beachside cliffs on the Napali coast, the most isolated land mass in the world. Kauai Coffee: tops, says Bruce Keller . MY COFFEE snob partner also guided us to Kauai Coffee, the largest coffee plantation in the United States. He pronounced its java "the best I've sampled in my tastings around the globe."  Perfect climate -- cool nights and warm days, plus rich volcanic soil, Pacific trade winds and mountain rains make it so flavorful, says he.  In his younger days, coffee loving Bruce Keller took off his clothes with his college buddies and waterskied Kauai's Wailua River. That was a few decades ago.  This time, we didn't spot any naked adventurers on the tranquil river. We simply took a sedate fully clothed boat ride past gorgeous waterfalls and lush, jungle landscapes along the island's East Side.   KAUAI HAS  the only navigable rivers in Hawaii, which lead to more than natural beauty.  Ice cream, coffee, home cooking and the best loco moco we've had await.   We've tried many variations, but the one we had in Kapaa was best: a nap-inducing gourmand's bomb of   white rice, topped with a hamburger, fried egg, and brown gravy.   www.hiltongardeninnkapaa.guestreservations.com www.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin was on the bucket list for Cookie's mother, along with a kiss and a visit to the fabled Blarney Stone. UP NEXT: A salute to Ireland and St. Patrick, as we remember trips to the Emerald Isle and a special brother whose ashes will be sprinkled there next summer.  Ireland is part of our family's history, and memorable trips with family are treasured. We revisit Dublin, with its beautiful cathedral and lively pubs, take a look at tourism highlights and enticements, and describe a mother's bucket list kissing of the Blarney Stone. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at nature, travel, the arts, cruising, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Beautiful costumes, magical lighting, talented dancers with garlands of leaves enhance the show at Hilton Garden Inn, Kauai.  The fire dance show is expertly performed, with live music. DRUMS, FIRE, DANCING CREATE EVENING OF SPECTACULAR ENCHANTMENT, AS WE LEARN OF POLYNESIAN CULTURE  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene "Cookie" Meyers, left, and Bruce Keller join the company of the Ahi Uila Fire Show in Kauai . DRUMS POUND as colorfully clad dancers move onto the stage, carrying flickering tiki torches which sway in time to the rhythm. The audience quivers in anticipation of an entertaining evening.  Soon, a dozen skilled performers will have the full house gasping, whistling and applauding.  WE WERE  witnessing a spectacular fire show, learning a great deal about the distinctly varied cultures of the Polynesian islands. We booked our spectacular fire dance show at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai. It did not disappoint. We knew we were in a special place, where island people celebrate centuries old traditions and teach the audience of their cultures. A dancer moves with the flames. WE WERE the last ones into the sold-out performance hall, which proved to be lucky.  The main tables were occupied so a creative maitre d' snapped his fingers and quickly ushered us to a high-top cocktail table which had magically materialized.  While the tablecloth was laid, we took our comfortable seats to admire the show and listen to the narration.  We were slightly left of the stage, with an excellent perspective of the performers and fast-moving series of stories.   NORMALLY, the dinner show is held outside, but ocean tradewinds and the threat of rain moved it indoors.  Every Tuesday, though, the fascinating production is staged -- outside or "plan B" -- indoors, with doors and windows open wide.  Warm tropical winds near the Wailua River are usually gentle, but in times of strong winds, the threat of fire from the tiki torches is too great to chance.  Even indoors, the experience is unforgettable. Billed as the "Ahi Uila Fire Show," the drama's usual backdrop is on the resort's Mamahune's Lawn. Inside or out, the friendly aloha spirit blankets the evening of fire dancing, fire eating, hula, sword play and more. We felt thoroughly immersed in Polynesian culture with the exhilarating beat of Polynesian drumming and a well written narration. WE ASKED one of the ensemble what the fire dance means to him when we lingered after the show. "In our culture, dancing can signify loss and mourning, joy, celebration, sensuality, religious worship or even war," he said. Three dancers play out a story in moody lighting. Many cultures use fire dancing to honor their past and teach children and visitors about their heritage, he explained. The well known dance form is found around the world from Africa to Mexico and South America and many parts of Polynesia. Various tribes on several continents have practiced fire rituals or fire dances as far back as the 13th century CE, where the Aztecs of Mexico dedicated their practices to the god of fire, whom they called Xiuhtecuhti. WE LEARNED  that fire dancing is not actually Hawaiian born.  Its heritage is Samoan, but Hawaiian performers have learned and perfected it, finding it attractive to tourists and a popular dinner show addition. "Siva afi" or fire knife dancing, is also Samoan in heritage, incorporating the fierce looking Samoan weapon "nifo oti," or war knife. Part of the show involves bringing the fire close to the  audience, a full house which normally is seated outside. We saw performers twirl the weapon and demonstrate other acrobatic tricks that had all of us in the audience tilted forward on our seats. EVEN FARTHER away, in New Zealand, poi fire dancing offers yet another form of fire performance, this time derived from the Maori culture. Performers swing a chain or rope around their bodies, while a weighted ball and wick on each end are on fire. Dancers make large, circular motions   encompassing their bodies, all to the beat of the music. This dancer looks as if he might be in pain from the fire, but he is really just concentrating. Seldom do the dancers actually get burned. The evening -- called the Ahi Uila Fire Show -- is narrated by a storyteller who gives a lively history of the origins of the Hawaiian islands and its many immigrants -- each bringing his culture's art along.  The performers bringing the story of Hawaii and its Polynesian connection alive. AFTER THE  show, I asked one of the performers why the fire didn't seem to burn -- although we thought we'd seen a couple of the dancers grimace when the flames came too close. He chuckled and said, yes, it is possible to be burned, but usually that doesn't happen because the wicks are made from kevlar and soaked in fuel -- either alcohol or paraffin -- before they are set on fire. Then when spun, the effect is dramatic. Most of the available fire poi on the island are lightweight, and have a twisted link. Another trick: heat-resistant stainless steel connectors protect the performers against burns. None of this information detracted from the power of the show. In fact, it enhanced it. MUCH LIKE  a buffet at a Hawaiian luau, the performance at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai is an entertainment smorgasbord. It artfully incorporates hula, dancing, singing, drums and a history lesson into its own unique visual stew. Fire dance at the Garden Inn on Kauai offers history lessons along with spectacle. It's a potpourri of performance from many of the beautiful islands of Polynesia. AS THE narrator explained, each dance in the fire show is associated with a specific island group, and is special to a specific culture. Hula comes from the islands of Hawaii, Tahitian derives from the islands of Tahiti, the haka and poi balls originated in New Zealand, fire knife dancing from Samoa. Hawaiians have woven a visual tapestry of myriad dances with a thoughtful narration stressing the individuality and unique aspects of each number. The Garden Inn's fire show pays unique tribute to the spicy variety that makes this excellent Hawaiian performance so memorable. More information on Kauai, the resort and the fireshow: www.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai www.hgikauai.com/ahi-lele-fire-show .   We boarded a Flagship vessel this week for prime whale viewing off the coast of southern California. Next up. UP NEXT : Whale of a time! The San Diego whale watching season starts in mid-December and lasts until late April.  So we have a few more weeks to watch in wonder as 20,000 gray whales migrate through California waters headed for warmer climes in the Baja.  We saw a few whales this week -- some already heading back north to Alaska, but a few stragglers heading south. With our 78 miles of coastline, we are directly in the migration path so it's a perfect place to watch. We've even seen the magnificent grays from land, but we like to get closer via water, so we're sharing our joy. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at nature, performance, music, art, theater and dance, family, dining, famous cities and off-the-beaten path wonders: www.whereiscookie.com

Hawaii"s fascinating history is told in striking exhibits and displays at Lyman Museum in Hilo HILO MUSEUM OFFERS WORLD CLASS STUDY OF SETTLING OF HAWAII, CRAFTS, ART, CULTURE AND A HISTORIC HOME BUILT BY MISSIONARY TEACHERS Murals, paintings and expertly written commentary tell the fascinating story of the settlement of Hawaii. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER New England born Lymans brought their "Cape Cod" style architecture to build in Hawaii. IF YOU THINK of Hawaii -- and only seashells, hula and palm trees come to mind -- you'll be pleasantly surprised when you visit the Lyman Museum and Mission House. Located in Hilo, on "the Big Island" of Hawaii, this treasure is Smithsonian-affiliated and the islands' only museum of natural and cultural history. Its large collection of intriguing artifacts is displayed throughout more than 20,000 square feet of open, airy and well designed galleries. Expertly curated and sometimes surprising exhibits range from a beautifully illustrated history of the islands' settlement to a tour of the home next door, built by New England missionaries and teachers, David and Sarah Lyman in 1839. The much visited museum began with the home, the Lyman Mission House, built near its present location and moved in 1931, nearly 100 years later. The museum was established by Lyman descendants and both buildings are carefully tended by docents who also give lively tours. THE NICELY restored Mission House is home to both furniture owned and built by the Lymans and other period pieces acquired by the museum which achieved status with both the State and National Registers of Historic Places. We admired lovely hand-crafted furniture, tools, household items, and artifacts used by the Lymans and other early missionary families. x The Lyman house is on the State and National Registers of Historic Places and an important artifact of the Museum. The much larger Lyman Museum building, next door to the Mission House, was constructed in 1971. We admired its superb collection of artifacts and natural history exhibits -- displayed in an impressively large and open space. A handsome gift shop offers handmade Hawaiian souvenirs -- classy, not airport kitsch. VISITORS TOURING the two facilities can see the old Mission House and life as it was 150 years ago, then go next door to inspect immersive exhibits on a range of Hawaiian natural history and culture. Through our Lyman Mission House guide, Jan, we enjoyed a glimpse into the life of the Lymans Lyman, who sailed 5,000 miles from New England in 1832 to build the island's oldest standing wood structure. Exquisite feather work is on show. Jan conveyed the courage of the couple -- rounding "The Horn" in a six-month voyage, before the Panama Canal, to craft a house without electricity or running water. WE SPENT a good share of our afternoon visit in the museum's newly renovated Heritage Gallery which studies Polynesian settlement and the life of these early Hawaiian people. We studied nicely displayed tools and implements crafted from native materials so these inventive people could farm, fish, build canoes and structures, grow crops, prepare and serve food, fashion weapons and adornments, and create clothing, coverings, and containers. This pair of Muscovy ducks kept watch outside the museum. THE SHELLS, rocks and feather work are stunning. So is an artistic exhibit on Hawaii's famous waterfowl. The museum involves the community in learning, enrichment projects and guest artists, offering a range of educational programs from special lectures and talks to hands-on workshops on Hawaiian skills and crafts. A favorite exhibit of locals is "Lei Hulu" featuring traditional Hawaiian feather work, exquisitely done. Regional exhibits also draw attention. “Sasana: The Burma Portfolio,” features images of the Burmese people and their land, showcased the work of a noted Hawaii-based photographer. Bruce Keller looks to the horizon in front of a colorful mural at Lyman Museum, which offers a fascinating immersion in the complex culture of Hawaii. THE GALLERY spends time on their spiritual beliefs and social relationships and diplomatically studies the influences of "Agents of Change," a variety of early European explorers, whalers, traders, missionaries and people from the mainland. All helped shape the islands' government, land use, economy and education. x Tools are nicely displayed with commentary on their use and how they were made. WE ENJOY this aspect of our frequent Hawaii visits. It's an appealing "melting pot," a multi-cultural mecca. The museum notes these important contributors: Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese and Korean immigrants who worked the sugar plantations, contributed to an evolving language and brought new foods and music. That exotic blend shaped what Hawaiian people consider “local." HAWAII'S POLITICAL development is also carefully analyzed. The Monarchy's early class-based society is explained, leading up to Hawaii's statehood in 1959. We learned how David Kalākaua, Hawaii's last and "Merrie Monarch” -- revived hula. He loved this graceful traditional Hawaiian dance, and helped revitalize it and other waning art traditions, ushering in a "cultural renaissance" in Hawaii. The museum's many and varied exhibits include this lovely three-dimensional display on Hawaii's waterbirds. THE MUSEUM and next-door home are popular with schools and students are welcome. Our guide, Jan, noted that this is appropriate since high school boys crafted some of the furniture in the home. A highlight of the gallery is the "Kīpuka," an interactive learning space where students enjoy hands-on activities: Hawaiian kapa and tattoo design, mat plaiting, storytelling through hula, chant, petroglyphs, and oral legends. They take home their artwork -- learning traditional techniques and an appreciation for the rich culture inspiring the artforms. Admissions are surprisingly low -- only a few dollars, with locals getting a price break. www.lymanmuseum.org The seductive charms of La Casa del Zorro await you, a desert hotel offering a peaceful get-away with all the amenities of a resort or big-city property. UP NEXT: A retreat in the desert -- both elegant and relaxed -- awaits at La Casa del Zorro in Borrego, Springs, a beautiful hotel with all the amenities of a big city resort yet the quiet and calming surroundings of one of the world's most picturesque deserts. "La Casa" offers private casitas and a handsomely decorated hotel, bird life, walking trails, a spa, yoga classes, tennis and a fine restaurant and bar with specialties of the house and something for every taste. Then as we approach hurricane season in Hawaii, we visit a fascinating Tsunami Museum. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com UP NEXT: La Casa del Zorro is a stately yet relaxed hotel in the desert near Borrego Springs, Calif.