A stately mansion in Ponce, Puerto Rico, is said to have ghosts. Castillo Serrallés (Spanish for Serrallés Castle) was built by a rum baron and is now a museum and events venue. Each October, part of it is transformed as a ghostly gathering entertains visitors. It's apropos, because many haunted places around the world are castles. Ponce revelers take to the streets on Halloween. SECOND LARGEST CITY WELCOMES VISITORS WITH ITS GENTLE CHARM, ART AND HISTORY PLUS A HAUNTED HOUSE IN ITS FAMOUS CASTLE TO CELEBRATE HALLOWEEN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PUERTO RICANS enjoy life. And they make the most of holidays -- including Halloween. As an unincorporated U.S. territory, Puerto Rico celebrates most of the same holidays as we in the mainland do -- All Hallows Eve included. Puerto Rico also celebrates the Day of the Dead "Dio de los Muertos" -- a holiday traditionally celebrated Nov. 1 and 2. In Puerto Rico, it is not as "big" an event as in other Latin countries. But both are celebrated -- often combined -- as family and friends gather to remember loved ones who have died. Like most Puerto Rican gatherings, food is served and the graves are usually visited with food and flowers. Ghosts welcome visitors to Ponce's Serralles Castle. Ponce's architecture frames this reveler on Halloween, 2023. No place in Puerto Rico can compete with Ponce's famous haunted castle for the "fright prize." Ponce offers top ghostly enthusiasm in a haunted manor at Serralles Castle. KNOWN AS "the house that rum built," the imposing castle is a well preserved reminder of the countries glorious "rum days." Ponce is an attractive, clean city in southern Puerto Rico, quieter and cheaper than San Juan. Every year to celebrate Halloween, the Castle becomes a scary, haunted mansion. The holiday "redo" fits its design perfectly. Built in Spanish Colonial Revival-style building, it was technically advanced for the 1930s. It is a lovely, antique filled place, including a Japanese garden and butterfly nursery. What a treat to visit the castle and town. We took a couple days side trip to Ponce, renting a car in San Juan for the 90-minute drive south through the center of the country. We booked two tours: one of the castle and one of the city, enjoying two perspectives on explorers, the rum industry, and the city's architecture, art and history. Ponce encourages murals and street art, to entertain tourists. WE ENJOYED the two tours -- first the Castle, then a lively guided walking tour of city center. Ponce's recorded history dates to 1692 when the famous Juan Ponce de León sailed into the island. As Puerto Rico's second-largest city, Ponce is often overlooked by tourists. But it's an easy trip from San Juan for a pleasant day or two, with a more apparent "village" feel than its larger, bustling resort oriented sister. CASTILLO Serrallés -- Serralles Castle -- is imposing both by its grandeur and because it overlooks Ponce's downtown. It was built during the 1930s for Juan Eugenio Serrallés, son of businessman Juan Serralles, who founded Destileria Serralles. It structure sits on a 2.5-acre beautifully manicured property. We saw a wedding rehearsal the day we visited. That's a huge part of the building's appeal, our guide said, as she focused on the building's past, the rum industry and the impact it had on Puerto Rico's economy. Ponce is a favorite destination for weddings, and encourages romance on its Paseo Amor, street of love. Ponce's parks and squares are well manicured and inviting. DESTINATION weddings are a big draw to the mansion, our guide explained, and many sun seekers take a break from busier San Juan to enjoy the more relaxed ambiance of Ponce. PONCE's OLD town is a colorful place, with plazas, churches, and colonial homes. Public art is encouraged and subsidized and Ponce has several large public art installations. Ponce's city market THE CITY's Plaza del Mercado at Ponce -- Bespoke Lifestyle Management Management offers lively tours, here with Melina Aguilar. our talented Ponce guide. known by older residents as Plaza del Mercado Isabel II -- is a huge indoor street market in the heart of town. Many of its shops and vendors have been there for decades. Locals know it has the freshest vegetables and fruits for a fair price. Traditional foods, candy, art and lottery tickets are offered in more than a dozen stands. The goods come from local farms, confectioners, and artists. Nearby Mercado de las Carnes was the first building in Ponce's Plaza del Mercado offers bargain prices on locally grown fruits and vegetables in more than two dozen shops inside a renovated building. Puerto Rico to mix social and architectural elements in its pedestrian mall. The historic art deco structure dates to 1926. Bruce Keller enjoys a Ponce Ice cream. Another enticement: charming hotels are half the price of similar inns in San Juan. Expedia, airbnb and many other options offer everything from lavish estates to simple apartments. More information: discoverpuertorico.com bespokeconcierge.com Enjoying a reunion and a tuk-tuk ride with friend Tomas Neves are Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller. UP NEXT: We explore Lisbon's marvels on a tuk-tuk. Four of us adventuresome sojourners climbed into a tuk-tuk to traverse this historic Portuguese city and enjoy its famous landmarks -- from cathedrals to street markets. A tuk-tuk ride in Lisbon is a must, for getting close-up views and learning a lot in a few hours. Our guide has become a friend through several trips. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more: and please share the link with traveling friends: www.whereiscookie.com

The El Yunque Rain Forest is one of the smallest, yet with a most diverse "repertoire" to behold. "I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived." Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at El Yunque Visitor Center. --Henry David Thoreau WHERE NATURE IS REVERED: El YUNQUE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER FORESTS HAVE for centuries have captivated writers and poets. The beauty, enchantment, tranquility, and ecological richness of forests is a soothing balm for the traveler and local alike. The unique coqui frog does not have webbed feet, like most frogs. The males have an enchanting song they sing all day. Puerto Rico's famous El Yunque Rain Forest weaves lush foliage, unusual wildlife and a beautiful modern visitor's center to create a symphony of nature. We admired waterfalls, beautiful flowers and century-old trees, with background music of a unique frog, taking a page from Thoreau's book, if only for a day. It was, in a word, captivating. The showy heliconia, or lobster flower, has a place of honor in the rain forest and in the garden of El Yunque's visitor center. We had a wonderful day in this magical place. Various snails make their home in the rain forest. Guides take guests around for close-up views. THE 29,000 acre rain forest is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. Although it is one of the smallest national forests, it is also one of the most biologically diverse with a charming and unique frog, the coqui. The small tree frog is Puerto Rico's national animal and has a charming if persistent song. Choruses of male coquis can be heard from dusk until dawn all over the island. The coqui (pronounced ko-kee) is a small arboreal frog that can be brown, yellow, or green. Its scientific genus name -- try pronouncing eleutherodactylus -- means “free toes” because, unlike many frogs, the coqui doesn't have webbed feet. THE PARK's diverse ecosystem also boasts hundreds of unique plant species. These are described at the impressive El Portal de El Yunque, the main visitor and information center in the forest. After the feeling of ancient wonders as we drove through the forest, a striking modern building comes into view to welcome visitors. Bruce Keller admiring the fan ferns in the rain forest. Our guide was proud of the trees whose roots spread out hundreds of feet in the forest. It features an elevated walkway through the tree tops, educational displays, a short wheelchair-friendly interpretive walking trail through the lower forest, a counter-service restaurant with tasty Puerto Rican sandwiches, some beautiful “selfie spots,” and a small gift shop. We recommend a stop at this modern, interesting visitor center which besides its beauty and eye-catching architecture, gives an informative grounding for first-time visitors to El Yunque. YOU'LL LEARN that the island's national flower is thespesia grandiflora, a hibiscus like beauty known as maga, also referred to as Maga Colorada ("Red Maga") and Puerto Rican hibiscus. It is a tree in the family Malvaceae of the rosids clade endemic to Puerto Rico, where its flower is celebrated as the national flower of the archipelago. You'll also see gorgeous orchids, ginger plants, plumeria, anthurium, birds of paradise, and the showy heliconia, also known as lobster flower. THE PEOPLE of Puerto Rico have long had a deep-rooted connection with its native flora. From the indigenous Taíno people to the country's modern-day inhabitants, native plants have played a significant role in shaping Puerto Rican culture, traditions, and even spirituality. The unique relationship Puerto Ricans have with their native plants goes beyond aesthetics or ecological conservation. A reverence for plants and growing things is an integral aspect of their identity. Medicinal plants and botanical remedies can be widely found in herbal displays and health stores. I replenished a few of my favorites. A climb up Yokahu Tower is a fine way to view the rain forest from above. WHILE YOU are so near a spectacular place, don't miss the opportunity to stop at Yokahu Tower, and climb to the top. It is right off the road, with a large parking lot. The view is worth the climb. There are 96 steps to get to the top, but don't be intimidated. The steps are wide and you can go at your own pace to reach a marvelous view of the woods below. We stopped several times to gaze out the windows and let others pass us. The 69-foor concrete tower leads to an observation deck where you can literally see the forest for the trees. We had a remarkably clear day so we could even see the ocean beyond the tree-top canopy. Cookie strolls one of the charming walking paths at the El Yunque Visitor Center, a lovely new space. Constructed in 1963, the tower was built by forest supervisor and director of IITF, Frank H. Wadsworth. The tower is one of the two observation towers located in the park and sits at an elevation of 1,575 feet (480 m). The other tower in the El Yunque is the Mount Britton Tower, which friends say is equally engaging. We've vowed to see it on our next visit. Many tour companies offer everything from food to nature excursions. We had good luck with Bespoke, which we booked when we reserved our week with Hilton. We used Bespoke for several tours. They have a relationship with Hilton, are pleasant and accommodating to work with in the booking process, and they picked us up at the hotel. More information: https://bespokeconcierge.com/ www.viator.com www.fs.usda.gov/elyunque www.discoverpuertorico.com www.puertorico.com San Juan offers a blend of old and new, relaxation and high energy activity and touring, beaches, Old Town and a lovely bay. UP NEXT: From rain forest wonders, to seductive San Juan as we cap our Puerto Rico series. Fortresses, parks, sculpture, night life, street food, glitzy casinos, elegant resorts and a lively old town mix with live music and sunshine for an intoxicating time. Old San Juan offers history and beautiful architecture. The beaches are among the best in the Caribbean and there's a historic site in the fortresses. We also recommend a cruise along San Juan Bay. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly.

The Getty Center Museum is large -- like its benefactor's appetite for art and beauty. The multi-building complex is the legacy of industrialist and philanthropist J. Paul Getty, a $1.3 billion endeavor which opened to the public with great fanfare in 1997. It is well known for its architecture, gardens, its free admission, tram to the complex and splendid views overlooking Los Angeles. It's gardens welcome many bird species. GETTY CENTER REOPENS; FIRE RESISTANT ARCHITECTURE  MARKS GETTY BUILDINGS    FIRE UPDATES WILL APPEAR AS REBUILDING BEGINS, PLANS UNFOLD BEAUTIFUL GETTY VILLA REMAINS CLOSED INDEFINITELY  AS A RESULT OF THE FIRES; WE'LL FEATURE IT WHEN IT REOPENS Editor's Note: We took the photos accompanying this story Jan. 6, the day before devastating fires closed both Getty museums.  We are relieved that the fires are at bay and the fire-resistant Getty Center Museum is reopened.  The Getty Villa, although saved, is closed indefinitely. Staffers stayed overnight early in the fire to protect it and while Villa grounds experienced damage, the buildings and priceless collections are safe thanks to steel and metal architecture, grounds irrigation and careful prior clearing of brush near the building's parameter.  We nod to the splendid Villa Museum in this article, and will present a full feature when it reopens in months, even a year.  Pacific Palisades must rebuild it roads, infrastructure and museum access, all damaged in the fires.  Both museums are free with only a parking charge.   A subtle, elegant effect from a display of prisms caught Cookie's eye. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OIL TYCOON  J. Paul Getty was a man of immense appetites, achievements and artistic acumen. He was also a man of vision, who would surely approve of the Getty Center's architecture, "a marvel of anti-fire engineering," as one critic called it. Both indoors and outdoors, its materials, design, construction, operations, and controls are purpose-built for safety.  Getty made his fortune with savvy investments in the oil trade. This enabled him to collect paintings and sculpture in both the U.S. and the Mediterranean, where he kept a villa in Italy for many years. Minnesota born, he enjoyed the warmer climate and landscape of southern California, noticing its similarities to the Mediterranean area he loved.  He was drawn to the lost civilizations of Herculaneum and Pompeii.  One villa, mostly buried by the volcanic eruption of Vesuvius, caught the collector's eye and would eventually lead to his legacy, two world class facilities: Getty Center Museum and Getty Villa Museum. A docent leads a group of tourists in one of the museum wings, explaining specific pieces, here a classical sculpture . THE CENTER Museum is much larger than the Villa. It is in Brentwood, about 11 miles or a half hour's drive from the Pacific Palisades Villa. The Center reopened Jan. 28 after the fires closed it for nearly three weeks. It houses a stunning collection of art from the Middle Ages, Renaissance and modern times. But the architecture and gardens of the buildings are the real stars of this complex, set amid gorgeous gardens with impressive city views. Museum staff thought of everything to enhance a visit: cafes, shady walkways, gorgeous gardens. Interesting gallery tours, changing exhibits and tasteful gift shops await. On warm days, one can borrow a parasol to keep the sun's glare away.  The museum is user friendly. Amazingly, it is free with only a parking charge. The gardens at Getty Center Museum are elegant and not to be missed.  This is one of several, the Central Garden . LONGTIME residents of the area know the history of the pair of Getty museums began with the opening of the J. Paul Getty Museum in 1954 while Getty was still alive and able to supervise. He originally designed a small museum adjacent to his Pacific Palisades home.  When it quickly outgrew his growing collection, he decided to replicate the villa, creating a larger, permanent home for his treasures.  He died in England in 1976 and the terms of his trust laid out plans for the Getty Center Museum, built to house the massive larger collection of mixed media masterpieces.  Architects from around the world vied for the architectural post and in 1984, following an eighteen-month selection process, architect Richard Meier was chosen to design the Center which opened with fanfare in 1997.  (I was among invited press.) GETTY ACQUIRED Bruce Keller enjoys a moment of solitude, reflecting on the beauty of sculpture, landscape at Getty Center Museum above Brentwood . a massive amount of sculpture, pottery, paintings and photographs, using his sharp eye and deep pockets to guide him. The Center and Villa accomplish his wish that his collection would live on and touch and enrich others' lives.He wanted visitors to experience Greek and Roman art in a setting that would bring the objects to life. The Villa does that.  He also wanted his massive additional collection to stay intact, and be complemented in beautiful sculpture gardens, with landscaping incorporating both plants and water. The Center does that admirably, with drought resistant plants which have a better chance of surviving fire such as the recent one. THE WORLD'S  best architects adapted plans for both the Villa and the Center.  No expense was spared in the Getty Villa, a recreation of an ancient Roman estate in Pompeii.  For the Villa ,   his team borrowed from other nearby villas since the one he admired was mostly destroyed by Vesuvius. Getty's team  designed a gorgeous complex that satisfied Getty's idea of "re-creation." Attention to detail was paramount to the collector. He insisted on accuracy in incorporating details from other ancient homes. A billionaire and once the richest man in the world, he spared no expense. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller by an exhibit of Van Gogh's famous "Irises. " Sculpture is an appealing part of Getty Center. WHAT EMERGED is two very different, equally charming spaces. Like the Center, only much smaller, the Villa incorporates charming gardens, fountains, peaceful places for contemplation with plants from the Mediterranean -- fruit trees, flowering shrubs, herbs used by the Romans for cooking and medicine.   Both facilities house beautifully designed gallery spaces showcasing Getty's stunning collections. The pair take the viewer from Egyptian, Greek and Roman statues to European paintings, drawings, sculpture, illuminated manuscripts, decorative arts, and photography from its beginnings to the present. We toured the two back-to-back in a long, delightful day.  Sadly, this pairing is not possible until the Villa reopens.  May that happen soon as Pacific Palisades "reinvents" itself and rebuilds. Meanwhile, consider a visit to the Center.  And keep Pacific Palisades, its people and its treasures in your hearts. More information:  Admission to Getty Center Museum is free but timed-entry reservations are necessary and you'll pay for parking. getty.edu/visit/center ;  visitorservices@getty.edu To follow Getty Villa's reopening plans:  getty.edu/visit/villa We're back on the whale trail, with a look at magnificent gray whales passing by San Diego in record numbers of over 20,000. Seeing a fluke is one of our happiest moments at sea. ON TAP:  It's a wonderful feeling to see a whale fluke as he dives down for food, or  "blows" as he comes up for air, expelling it through his blow hole.  Did you know that's the genesis of the term "Thar she blows"? from whaling days. Now we happily celebrate the return of the whale after near extinction.  We are thankful to photograph these beautiful, once endangered creatures and are thrilled to be back watching whales with favorite San Diego venues, San Diego's City Cruises under the Hornblower umbrella and San Diego Whale Watch.  Tourists from all over the world visit San Diego for the whales. So that's next week's feature.  Then more water adventures in Fort Lauderdale, a UK train odyssey, tips on bathroom protocol when abroad -- and, importantly, how to find one! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, performance, nature and more:  www.whereiscookie.com   To book a whale watching cruise in San Diego: https://www.cityexperiences.com/san-diego/city-cruises/san-diego-whale-dolphin-watch-adventure/

With a rooftop view of Barcelona, our road trippers visit Park Guell, on Carmel Hill in the Gracia district of Barcelona. It was designed by famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi and is considered a masterpiece of imagination and modernist architecture. Gaudi is also known for his inventive homes and apartments and his lifelong project, the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world and a wonder to behold. STEP INSIDE GUELL PARK AND ENJOY ITS MARVELS: SERPENTS, COLUMNS, WAVES With a rooftop view of Barcelona, our road trippers visit Park Guell, on Carmel Hill in the Gracia district of Barcelona. It was designed by famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi and is considered a masterpiece of imagination and modernist architecture. Gaudi is also known for his inventive homes and apartments and his lifelong project, the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world and a wonder to behold. The Dragon Stairway invites visitors to climb into a magical world and the Hypostyle Room of 86 columns. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONE OF the most popular attractions in Barcelona is Park Güell. The stunning park is like no other, the creation of famed architect Antoni Gaudi. It is found above the city on Carmel Hill, which offers a spectacular view of beautiful Barcelona. We took a bus to within a couple blocks of the wondrous place, and on our third visit we saw new detail. MOST PEOPLE visit to see the vibrantly tiled Serpentine Benches in the Greek Theatre with its panoramic views. But, there are many more equally engaging things to do and see in Park Güell. THIS VISIT, The Laundry Room Portico, meant to resemble ocean waves. we explored the Laundry Portico, marveled at the Hypostyle Hall, ascended the Dragon Stairway, visited Gaudi’s House and said hello to the beloved dragon, "El Drac." The first landing offers a variety of capricious shapes including goblins, while halfway up the steps is the emblem of Catalonia. One must stop to admire the dragon -- actually a winsome salamander -- covered with decorative tile-shard mosaic. This has become the most popular image of the park and we enjoyed watching young and old "pet" the mosaic creature which acts as the symbol of Barcelona. ‘'El Drac'’ is known by other names -- "the dragon"’ and "the Park Güell lizard." Acting as a guard for Park Güell, it was created from brick and is coated with Gaudí’s signature Trecandís technique. Gaudi House Museum is a wonderful, detailed look at the world, its colors and forms that shaped the artist. THE PARK was built between 1900 and 1914, inspired by the "garden city movement" of the 20th century. Gaudi was a visionary and built the park on the edge of the city. His notion was to allow the park and the self-contained communities within it to be surrounded by both clean air and green open spaces. A famed Catalan architect, Gaudí was also a savvy businessman and named the park after his sponsor Count Eusebi Güell, who loved Gaudi's work and endowed his creativity. The mosaic salamander statue has become a symbol of Barcelona. The estate remained Gaudí’s family home until his death in 1926. That's a sad story because he was hit by a tram on his way to inspect his beloved Sagrada Familia, and had no identification on his person. He was identified several days after the accident in a pauper's morgue, and when people realized it was the great man, he was accorded a massive funeral befitting royalty. THE SERPENTINE Bench is another favorite of ours, a well loved mosaic tile bench that winds its way along the terrace around Park Güell. It was created by Gaudi using the Trencandís technique, which he invented, and was widely copied during Catalonia’s modernism and surrealism periods Mosaic creatures and plants deck the halls of the park. THE AUSTRIAN Gardens and Gaudi House Museum were originally meant to be part of a grand housing estate plan. It was Gaudi's hope that 60 villas would be built Guell Park deserves a visit; do plan to spend several hours. but the plan failed. So Park Güell was opened to the public, and the Austria Gardens became a plant nursery. Poignantly named, they gained their title through a donation of cherished trees from Austria in 1977. Both houses built on the estate can be viewed from the gardens. One of them became Gaudí’s home, and is known as the Gaudí House. It's a charming place with personal effects providing insights into the life of a true visionary and genius. At Guell Park, the stairs are often photographed, and one may book a tour of the place so as not to miss highlights. CONSTRUCTED in a slanted shape, the Laundry Room Portico was designed to mimic an ocean wave. Created with textured walls and statues, the pillars at the exterior were put in place in order to secure the road above. Typical of Gaudí's genius, he cleverly used design to blend his creativity with the surrounding natural environment and meet the demands of the complex construction. We highly recommend Visit Barcelona tickets. Wonderful way to see the city. For more about this fascinating city and its rich cultural attractions: www.barcelonaturisme.com "Dance" by Henri Matisse, was painted in 1920 and is among the world's most beloved paintings. It resides in New York's fabulous MoMA. ON TAP: We're on the trail of unique museums, art projects and nature inspired wonders around the world. We'll take readers inside the Museum of Modern Art in New York and check out the city's delightful High Line, a public park and walkway built on the site of an elevated historic freight rail line which was in disrepair. That and British trains, caves, craters and Central Park as it welcomes spring. We'll also feature a veteran special effects artist who found success in Hollywood. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family, performance and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Meet Bo, who posed for us this week, a handsome nearly 9-year old male lion, the head of his pride which includes three females. The African lion is listed as a "vulnerable species" because of declining numbers due to poaching, habitat loss and trafficking. He had just eaten and was relaxing. AWARD WINNING SAFARI PARK IS PERFECT EARLY SPRING OUTING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day of touring, watching, learning at the world famous Safari Park. THE SAN DIEGO Zoo Safari Park is an international treasure, visited by thousands each year and home to a carefully supervised grouping of 3,000 animals sharing 1,800 beautifully landscaped yet "wild looking" acres. The highly acclaimed park has some of the world's most successful breeding programs, particularly the rhino, who has been brought A female kangaroo wakes from an afternoon nap. back from near extinction thanks to parks such as San Diego's. The city's rare white rhinos (the same color as grey) are the only two left on the planet. That makes seeing these wondrous creatures even more special. WE SPENT a full, happy day at this enchanting place, hopping aboard the Africa Tram to get a bird's eye view of the park's beautifully arranged habitat. A view of the grounds from a lookout near the elevator. We had a terrific guide who stopped so we could get close-up views of giraffes, rhinos, antelope and gazelles. We also saw mule deer, "freeloaders," who visit the park as unofficial guests, enjoying the grounds and a nibble. THE CRITTERS we saw are free to roam happily on the savannah grounds within artfully designed areas to separate but not "fence". The grounds were landscaped to resemble the foliage, shelter and open spaces the animals enjoy in their native habitats. The dozens we saw appeared happy with the arrangement. Besides beautifully tended grounds for the critters, the zoo boasts a fascinating botanical garden with over a million plants, carefully marked. San Diego Zoo Safari Park has two platypuses. The semiaquatic, egg-laying mammal is endemic to eastern Australia. We were lucky to catch a glimpse. OUR TERRIFIC 20-minute tram ride gave us an idea of what we'd like to see more of and return to. We knew that would include the Australia walkabout since we have many times visited that continent and observed its unique critters. Speaking of walking, prepare to get your exercise. It's a large expanse and we logged over 4 miles on our recent visit. Motorized carts are available for rental and a variety of tours can be organized for those who don't want total independence. More than 1.6 million visitors joined in the exploration and learning experience at the park last year. Among the pleasures is watching a tiger nap -- feet and legs in the air, almost comically relaxed. Christene "Cookie" Meyers watches a sleeping tiger close-up. Besides observing napping critters, you'll see lots of lively ones including a variety of monkeys. We watched lesser spot-nosed monkeys, a lively troop of capuchin monkeys, colobus monkeys and northern black-crested mangabeys sharing a habitat. Spot-nosed monkeys are about too, and and wolf's monkeys hang around with their pygmy hippo pals. If you time it right, you'll see them swing through the trees. Our favorite interlude was watching a lion chow down on a beef shank, as nearby vultures await the scraps. Then watch them peck on the bones. Special tours are available as additions to the regular ticket. You can join a small group like this one to get up close and personal. As part of the ticket which begins at $76, you can access the cheetah run to witness the lightning speed of these big, beautiful cats. You can feed the lovely lorikeets by hand as they swoop down, and various upgrades are available for more money. You can book a wildlife safari, for instance, to travel in the back of a covered open-air safari truck -- like Top scientists and dedicated researchers are using their skills to breed endangered and nearly extinct rhinos and other species. This rare white rhino is nearly gone from Earth. the ones I've ridden in during African safari. The truck travels through the park's expansive savanna habitats with an expert guide providing information on each animal. The entrance hall at San Diego Zoo Safari Park welcomed over 1.6 million visitors last year. ANOTHER terrific aspect of a visit is learning. It's wonderful to see groups of school kids taking photos, soaking it all up. And the knowledgeable volunteers who are always within easy reach enrich the experience, answering questions, giving pointers on best viewing spots. We found the docents helpful in tracking down the platypus exhibit. We had to adjust our eyes as we entered the dark world of this shy creature to catch a glimpse of the female swimming around, resting on a log and generally enjoying the attention (or so it seemed to us delighted tourists.) THE WEATHER is perfect in San Diego this time of year -- in fact, it averages 72 degrees 12 months a year. So enjoy this special place and support wildlife. With the various upgrades available, you can spend a bit more than the ticket. There are money-saving ticket packages including one that combines the Safari Park entrance with the Zoo and SeaWorld. Various coupons and discounts can also be found with a little shopping around on the internet. You'll also pay a parking fee of $20. sdzwa.org; zoo.sandiegozoo.org A Flagship trip promises fun, learning, comfort and colorful commentary. UPCOMING FUN: We didn't know -- did you -- that San Diego invented the whale watch? A family run enterprise, Flagship Cruises, began the first whale watching adventure after the commercial hunting of whales was banned in the 1970s. We're off with Flagship on a fabulous whale watching adventure (that's Cookie in the purple hat, front row, looking at photos just taken of the frolicking dolphins.) We're exploring the art of Salvador Dali, the fun of a Fort Lauderdale visit, and a look at highlights of New York City. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Flagship Cruises introduced whale watching to the world.  Here, naturalist Sophie, helps passengers look for two whales she and the captain have just spotted. FLAGSHIP'S PROUD HERITAGE INCLUDES INTRODUCING THE WHALE WATCH              TO THE WORLD STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers bundle up for a cool and satisfying February whale watch on Flagship. FLAGSHIP CRUISES  has the honor of launching the world's first water-based whale watching tours. That's one of many feathers in the cap of this waterfront institution in  San Diego. But that's just part of Flagship's history.  In the city's formative days,  Flagship was on the scene.The line's story traces back as far as modern San Diego, considered by most historians to be the last years of the 19th Century and the first part of the 20th Century. The company claims this heritage because it began service in 1915, now celebrating 110 years of serving a worldwide clientele. A grey whale's breech brought gasps and cheers aboard Flagship's Marietta in San Diego. The family owned company  offers a rewarding whale watching experience, with lively commentary and a theme of environmental protection. Dinner cruise offers fun night out   LIKE SAN DIEGO, Flagship has been shaped by many innovations and transformations over the past century. It grew and expanded to meet needs of a growing city's residents and tourists and conventioneers from all over the world. Most visitors spend at least a part of a day on the water. Flagship's whale watching vessel, the Marietta, is clean and airy, offering plenty of room to move about for viewing. The fleet expanded to meet that need, and the vessels include yachts as well as ferries. Flagship makes the only regular daily service to Coronado, a tradition dating back to long before the bridge was built to connect the city to the famous resort town."We always strive to better serve the needs of our guests, humbled by the millions of passengers who chose to make memories on our yachts and ferries," says as recent press release. FLAGSHIP HONORS  the environment and the city of San Diego, in all its excursions, from harbor tours to brunch cruises, dinner cruises, whale watch excursions and private charters. We've been on Flagship a dozen times through the years and have never failed to be entertained and satisfied. Knowing the family still has a hand in the business enhances the experience and is a serious reason for our loyalty. The company began as the Star & Crescent Boat Company, after the family-owned Star Boat Company, operators of San Diego's first harbor excursions, merged with its competitor, Ralph Chandler's Crescent Boat Company. Long before freeways and bridges, the new 16-boat fleet provided transportation between Roseville, Fort Rosecrans, Imperial Beach, Tijuana and the Coronado Islands. It also offered deluxe Well informed guides point out other sea life along the way, here this sunbathing sea lion.   harbor tours. The fare was 50 cents. Resident whales up the coast  THE PROUD history of Flagship includes helping the U.S. win World War II. In 1942, the company donated its harbor excursion boat Estrella to the government to ferry defense workers and members of the armed forces. Whale watching is a proud part of the enterprise. Six years after commercial hunting of gray whales was banned, the world's first water-based whale watching tours began in San Diego, launching a global industry. For $1, passengers could take a boat trip to experience an up-close view of the beautiful migrating creatures. The price is a bit higher now, but the thrill of whale watching with a skilled captain and great commentary from a good guide remains the same. A delightful 15-minute ferry ride awaits nearby to take you to or from Coronado Ferry Building from Broadway Pier or the Convention Center. IF YOU are visiting San Diego, you will be treated with a variety of Flagship offerings. Consider booking a fun, fact-filled harbor tour or an elegant dining cruise. Flagship also offers private charters, and a thrilling jet boat that had me quivering as we bounced along. Plus the historic Coronado Ferry still operates daily, as it has for decades. It's a delightful way to get from the city to "the island," which is really a peninsula, a very different, more laid back village-like environment.  Coronado is a lovely and historic resort city across the bay with great restaurants, fun shopping, theaters, art galleries and the world famous Hotel Del Coronado where Marilyn Monroe splashed in the sea during the filming of "Some Like It Hot." More information: 619-234-4111  Click here to book your adventure Theater lovers are flocking to "Once," and a bounty of other plays and musicals in southern California. Please support your local theaters. FUN ON TAP : Theater is thriving all over the world, with a pre-spring bounty of plays and musicals opening across the nation. Here in southern California, we feature some of our favorite venues and productions, with encouragement to friends and readers to support local theater wherever you are. We'll preview a host of openings, including "Once," a Tony award winning musical featuring Irish music -- as a preview to St. Patrick's Day. There are also dramas, comedy and introspective works, with something for every theatrical taste. Next week's piece will give you reasons to support theater wherever you live -- or to make a quick trip to San Diego to satisfy your play-going palate. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, nature, art, family, travel and more: www.whereiscookie.com

FABULOUS FARE ON THE BOARDS IN SAN DIEGO AREA AND IN YOUR COMMUNITY SPRING BONANZA IN SAN DIEGO Waiting for the house lights to dim, top and above, are Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers For them, theater is a necessary thrill to feed their souls. Support live theater, wherever you are. There is nothing like the connection live performance offers. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU LOVE theater as much as we do, you consider it not a frill or extra, but a necessity. Please consider supporting yours -- wherever you are in the U.S., or the world. Volunteers are always needed, especially as ushers. And there's a perk. You'll receive tickets to shows if you contribute time and talent. We visit many San Diego and Los Angeles area theaters on a regular basis, proud that Southern California is blessed to have an abundance of enchanting theater venues. As grateful members of the audience we give thanks for talented actors, directors, designers, technicians, marketing pros and volunteers whose talents feed our artistic appetite. Each year we happily offer a spring roundup of "the best on the boards" in theater loving San Diego. We urge our friends around the U.S. and world, to support local theater. For us, it's a lifeline, not an extra. North Coast Repertory Theatre never fails to entertain, provoke, amuse, in Solana Beach. NORTH COAST REPERTORY THEATRE: With imaginative sell-out performances, "What the Constitution Means to Me" is the latest offering, through March 23. The Pulitzer Prize finalist promises "an emotionally charged, thought provoking theatrical experience" exploring the U.S. Constitution's significance in contemporary America with wit and political insight. The intimate house has no bad seats for feasting on an ambitious mix of musicals, world premier dramas, comedies and classics. The dedication, energy and creative spin of visionary artistic director David Ellenstein satisfy older patrons while drawing enthusiasm from new, more demanding younger crowds. In spring, watch for "Peril in the Alps" a world premier mystery romp; "Birthday Candles" celebrating one woman's birthdays through the decades in June, and "A Gentleman's Guide to Love and Murder in July-August. Ellenstein and company give imagination a whirl with a satisfying blend of both fresh and familiar work, always enjoyable. northcoastrep.org Ground-breaking at Cygnet's new digs in Liberty Station. Three fine productions cap Cygnet's tenure in Old Town, before the summer move. CYGNET THEATRE. Capping last year's successes, Cygnet Theatre presents its final season in Old Town before moving to its new home at the Joan and Irwin Jacobs Performing Arts Center at Liberty Station. Under the guiding force of artistic director Sean Murray, "The Joan" will launch its 21st season in September in a new, contemporary 289-seat proscenium theater and a 150-seat flexible studio space. Murray, also a versatile actor (from "My Fair Lady" to "The Rocky Horror Picture Show" and as an endearing Scrooge in "A Christmas Carol") caps the 2024-25 season in Old Town directing a first-rate piece of writing flawlessly acted. "Other Desert Cities" is up through March 2, a searingly complex family story with both humor and pathos. Then a fresh, fierce comedy, "The Hot Wing King," April 9-May 2 (sounds delicious, as a group of friends prepare their entry for a culinary contest.) Finally, that classic musical theater war horse "Oklahoma" offers venerable musical comedy, June 11-July 20. www.cygnettheatre.com ''Once" celebrates the music of Ireland with a spirited band, engaging story and top singers --just in time for St. Patrick's Day! LAMB'S PLAYERS THEATRE: Lamb's Players can be relied upon for polish and spirit in spades with top actors, singers and musicians. "Once" reinforces Lamb's reputation for excellence in a return engagement of an award winner, in time for St. Patrick's Day. It began as a 2007 movie, then the lively musical was a Tony winner on Broadway before winning raves in San Diego 7 years ago. The show is artfully staged by Lamb's artistic director Robert Smyth with a returning crack cast of fabulous musicians and singers who move "Once" is on tap at Lamb's Players. gracefully about the pub setting. This first-rate production boasts terrific leads and support, including Smyth's wife, Deborah Gilmour Smyth, who sets the high energy and polished tone. Watch for her in Horton Foote's Tony winning "The Trip to Bountiful" April 15-June 1, followed by a musical celebrating the '70s this, and G.B. Shaw's classic "Arms and the Man," next fall. It's a lovely drive to Coronado, across the bridge from downtown San Diego. Plenty of restaurant choices, too, to extend the fun. lambsplayers.org Leigh Scarritt, Rachel VanWormer captivated us in "The Half-Life of Marie Curie," at New Village Arts. New Village Arts also produces unique cabaret shows, including "Love, Linda" which told the story of Mrs. Cole Porter in a pitch-perfect and delightful performance by Sandra Ochoa Rice. The show features many of Porter's masterpieces dazzlingly delivered with a three-piece band. NEW VILLAGE ARTS. This cozy 99-seat theater in Carlsbad opened its spring season with a bang. Theater lovers raved about the captivating production of "The Half-Life of Marie Curie" which just ended a brilliant run. Two accomplished actors cast a spell: Rachael VanWormer and Leigh Scarritt as Madame Curie and fellow brilliant scientist, Hertha Ayrton. Typical of New Village productions, it featured artful lighting, an eye-catching set design and mesmerizing talent. The ambitious Carlsbad venue produces year-round musical events, cabaret and concert readings of Broadway musicals. Up next is "La Havana Madrid," March 21-April 27, about Chicago’s legendary nightclub where newly arrived Latino immigrants dine, dance and find community. newvillagearts.org Diversionary Theatre is always a treat, even in the rain. Its productions appeal and are inclusive, original. DIVERSIONARY THEATRE. The current season at our nation's third oldest LGBTQ theater includes "We Are Continuous," through March 9, a lyrical work about love and the ability to change by acclaimed playwright Harrison David Rivers. Diversionary is a small, mind-challenging venue with a lovely, welcoming theater and impressive education outreach. It opened season 39 in its recently renovated space, including a cozy cabaret with drinks and live queer-themed entertainment. An inclusive, enterprising playbill espouses love, honesty, humor and hope with a mission to inspire and celebrate diverse LGBTQIA stories. Always an enriching visit. diversionary.org MOXIE THEATRE: Watch this ground-breaking company, known for its generosity to students, and for its diverse repertoire of female focused work. Some of the region's best actors have graced Moxie's stage where each season presents surprises and delights. "Man and Moon" is typical fare, featuring the story of a transitioning man, Aaron, and Luna, a young girl with a passion for outer space. Depend on Moxie for imaginative breaking of stereotypes. moxietheatre.com A series of tributes headline at The Welk, where people may also enjoy the attractive grounds. THEATRE AT THE WELK. The beautifully designed theater, at 8860 Lawrence Welk Drive in Escondido, presents an uplifting mix of concerts, musicals and tributes. "Gypsy Dreams" is a tribute to Fleetwood Mac Feb. 19, followed by "A Rockin' Tribute to the King," Wednesdays March 5-26, with a band on stage backing award winning singer-actor Scot Bruce as a convincing Elvis. "Fortunate Son," a Creedence Clearwater tribute, follows on Wednesdays in April. "FABBA" is an Abba tribute in May and June, and popular performer Jason Lohrke returns with his acclaimed Neil Diamond tribute in July. welkresorts.com David McBean, front, and Jason Maddy as "True West" brothers. ROUSTABOUTS THEATRE CO.: This talented, daring company features some of San Diego's finest actors in a range of funny, touching and acerbic pieces. Actor Phil Johnson is at the helm as company co-founder. He was brilliant in a rousing one-man show, "A Jewish Joke," which went on to play New York. His enterprise engineers comedy nights and other delights, with talented local casts. Sam Shepard’s searing "True West" is up next, a story of sibling rivalry between estranged brothers Austin and Lee, who have reconnected. It is set in in the foothills of California's San Gabriel Valley at their mother's home. The production runs at Diversionary Theatre March 27-April 13. Rely on Johnson and company for originality, always pushing the entertainment envelope. theroustabouts.org SCRIPPS RANCH THEATRE. Creative use of space on the campus of Alliant International University provides a welcoming, intimate forum for another challenging season. "White" is next up, billed as "a comedic story that explores privilege in the art world." The production promises twists and surprises, subverting expectations as it illuminates contemporary culture. The run extends through March 9. Scripps celebrates the unusual, with an always ambitious season. scrippsranchtheatre.org La JOLLA PLAYHOUSE. Continuing this venerable, top drawer theater's dedication to the unique, La Jolla Playhouse would make founder Gregory Peck proud with its 2025-26 season including an intriguing world premier, "Three Summers of Lincoln." Award winning La Jolla Playhouse offers another world premier. "Three Summers of Lincoln" features gospel, R&B and more. It features an original score blending gospel, R&B, and more with Christopher Ashley at the helm as artistic director. Under his guidance, the award winning playhouse took home a Tony for "Far From Away," another world premier which debuted in La Jolla and went on to Broadway. He is proud of the 2025 Without Walls ("WOW") Festival set for April 24-27, promising immersive and site-inspired work. Presented in partnership with the UC San Diego, the WOW Festival features four action-packed days of theater, dance, music, puppetry, spectacle events and more. lajollaplayhouse.org SAN DIEGO MUSICAL THEATRE: Musicals reign at this venue. "Hello, Dolly!" is on the boards through March 9. We've seen spirited shows here, including "Forever Plaid" and "Little Shop of Horrors" -- an admirable mix of musicals, including "In the Heights," which introduced Lin-Manuel Miranda to the world. SDMT's lively popular grassroots enterprise made its name with romantic comedy and trusted musical theater works, thanks to musical-loving founders Gary and Erin Lewis who launched the endeavor in 2006. It has a loyal following for its varied repertoire. sdmt.org TRINITY THEATRE CO: This company's goal is "to unify friends, family, and community." TTC believes all people wishing to participate in the performing arts should have a venue in which to inspire and be inspired. Shows blend the talents of seasoned performers and spirited newcomers, in both performance and technical aspects of theater. "The Seussification of Romeo and Juliet!" just wrapped, a lively adaptation of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet told in a whimsical, Seussian style. (Spoiler alert: no one died.) Like Trinity's mission, it mixed rhyme and rhythm with playful characters, and vibrant storytelling, aimed at involving young people. Trinity works with schools to encourage theater arts education and foster community involvement, celebrating the arts for performers and patrons alike. trinityttc.org WITH THIS BOUNTY, spring theater is in full flower in southern California with March celebrations and discounts during San Diego Theater Month with discounted tickets at more than 30 venues. Check for similar festivals in your town and consider supporting your local theater, symphony, chorale and band. Be generous with buskers. And remember: a pair of tickets to a play, musical or concert makes an excellent gift. www.sandiegotheatremonth.com Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller on the trail of waterborne fun, from water taxis to cruising. We visit Fort Lauderdale on land and water, admire artists in Spain, explore Central Park in New York and pay our respects to both man made beauty and the art of nature. FUN ON THE RUN: In the next few weeks, we offer a lively mix of fun pieces, from the waters of Fort Lauderdale to the art museums of northern Spain and Barcelona. We offer practical pointers on finding a bathroom in Europe and elsewhere abroad, and we visit spectacular attractions in New York City, including Central Park, the High Line and the world renowned Museum of Modern Art. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, performance, travel, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Andy Schoneberg worked on the award winning film, "Inglourious Basterds," here with Jake Garber, just after filming his scalping.  The film is set in Nazi-occupied France during WWII, when a group of Jewish-American soldiers, "The Basterds" spread fear in the Third Reich by brutally scalping Nazis.   From left, artists Andy Schoneberg and Nicole Michaud,with Schoneberg's creation of famed actor Humphrey Bogart,   Christene Meyers and Bruce Keller joined the party. DRIVEN BY A DREAM:  MAKING MAGIC WITH SPECIAL EFFECTS IS WHAT HE LOVES BEST STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Andy Schoneberg Andy Schoneberg applies makeup to Diane Lane for "The Oldest Living Confederate Widow..." Editor's Note: The writer and today's featured artist met many years ago during their years at The Billings Gazette. They collaborated on theatrical productions and Schoneberg created a bronze of the writer's late husband for a garden in his memory on the campus where he taught for 25 years. WHEN ANDY Schoneberg arrived in Los Angeles 40 years ago, he had $500 and dreams of making it big in Hollywood. Since then, he's crafted a successful career in special effects and makeup and has seen the city through highs and lows: Oscar ceremonies, star studded receptions, riots, drought, COVID and the recent horrific fires. Through it all, he's kept his equilibrium, continuing to create. Monsters, movie stars, rock icons, famous paintings by masters all fascinate this master craftsman. Schoneberg's fascination with the Beatles resulted in creation of four life size faces of "the Fab Four." Here is a silicone   mannequin of John next to a final sculpture of Paul. Below  those are sculptures of George and an unfinished Ringo. Schoneberg's credits are well known to movie buffs. His wizardry includes crafting the hands of "Edward Scissorhands" for Johnny Depp, transforming Diane Lane into the "Oldest Living Confederate Widow" and working on dozens of other films from horror movies to documentaries -- "Jurassic Park," "Terminator 2," and more. Ghosts and dinosaurs, heroes and villains are all part of his vast and talented repertoire.  Schoneberg even realized a bucket list dream when he met and worked with famed makeup artist Dick Smith, who transformed Dustin Hoffman into ancient narrator Jack Crabb in "Little Big Man."  GROWING UP  in Casper, Wyo., he was constantly drawing. Now at 69, he credits his parents with planting those long ago seeds that led to a life in the arts.  "Both were arts-oriented people. Mom sang  in Casper's community theater. My dad also loved singing and was a fan of big-band music."   Make-up master Dick Smith, left, with Andy Schoneberg. Smith was known as "the godfather of make-up" for his award winning work on "Little Big Man" and many other famed Hollywood films. His parents encouraged him to find his own style, to experiment and study the masters. "I idolized Leonardo da Vinci and copied a few of his paintings," he remembers. "That set up my love of replicating things."   WHEN HE SAW Planet of the Apes in 1968, he wanted to learn how the makeup was done. Driven by his penchant for mimicking, he found materials at a theatrical supply in New York. "I began a series of experiments," he said. "Many of them failed, but I took my tiny successes as encouragement to keep trying."  THE ARTIST'S attraction to Hollywood escalated The writer with Schoneberg's creation of Marilyn Monroe.  from an ambitious dream to a firm goal when he visited Los Angeles with friend Marc Vertin in 1978. "I fell in love with the city immediately," he says. "I knew L.A. was for me." While working on dozens of notable projects, Schoneberg met his partner Nicole Michaud, also a gifted special effects and makeup artist. A native New Englander and painter, she and Schoneberg also teach. "My joke is I help young people grow into artists who make dead people, old people, olden times people," she says.   Quasimodo, with David Woodruff a re-creation by Schoneberg,  for the 90th anniversary of "The Hunchback of Notre Dame" which featured Lon Chaney ACTORS MARILYN Monroe and Humphrey Bogart are also favorites of Schoneberg.  Bogart is the subject of a decades old fascination. As an accomplished actor, Schoneberg has played the famous actor twice in "Play It Again Sam." When he was 23, he was cast as Bogie in that Woody Allen work. In 1980s, working as a newspaper illustrator in Montana, Schoneberg reprised the role. That led to crafting a life size mannequin of Bogey in Los Angeles. "So Bogey and I are star-crossed!"  Schoneberg laughs. "Nicki accuses me of having a Barbie doll because my Bogey has several outfits." Schoneberg and his partner, Nicole "Nicki" Michaud with Schoneberg's "Mona Lisa." He has long admired Leonardo Da Vinci and  his dad said "Wouldn't it be fun to have a Mona Lisa in your living room?" So the Schoneberg replica is also an homage to his father. . AMONG FAVORITE productions is "Edward Scissorhands."  "It was  so gratifying," he says of the Tim Burton movie.  "Tim was fantastic. Johnny Depp was warm and funny, Winona Ryder was friendly, and the whole cast was great."   Schoneberg is delighted the gothic romantic fantasy is still going strong. His work is listed in the credits for building the intricate hands Johnny wears throughout the film.   The writer, Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the dedication of the Bruce Meyers Poets Garden which features Schoneberg's bronze of the late actor, poet and MSU-Billings professor.  Michaud, Schoneberg and his ex-wife Becky have an amicable relationship, sharing pride in Andy and Becky's two kids, both creative people.  "They realize they don't have to work so hard and make the sacrifices I did," he says, "but they love that I did the things I've done." He says of the kids, "Dorian loves to write, and Emily is a fine makeup artist. That makes me happy."  Schoneberg's  plaster cast from the head of Bruce Meyers who played Daddy Warbucks in "Annie" was the basis for a bronze sculpture the artist created for Poet's Garden .  AS FOR  his fascination with the Beatles, he says, "John started as a study in facial muscles and during the addition of muscles to the skull I sculpted, I thought, 'I really should make it look like John."  As he was finishing the famous Beatle, he thought "Wouldn't it be outrageous to do all four of them? And once that seed was planted...BAM!" You can find more about Schoneberg's career, including how he got the "Edward Scissorhands" gig on Instagram: @theschoneberg Here in London King's Cross Station, trains await passengers. We share tips on travel in the United Kingdom with BritRail, which offers a variety of passes to suit individual needs. www.britrail.com UP NEXT: On to spring travel.  We're off on a trek on Brit Rail, to explore the wonders of the United Kingdom with trips to historic York, founded by the Romans, and north to Edinburgh for a stroll on Prince's Street, a visit to the royal yacht Britannia, and tips on visiting famous castles and manors.  Start planning now for a trip to your favorite UK cities and villages, with tips on how to make the most of your time by using the efficient and varied rail system. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

High Chaparral in Montana is a family sanctuary, for it is filled with memories of happy times.  It also honors the memory of family members who have "gone to the next camp." Above, a granite memorial with  names of  the deceased. At right,  a bronze of Bruce Meyers. Left of that, a U.S. Army memorial for William Jones, Cookie's first and second husbands.  Let us go then you and I, when the evening is spread out against the sky --From "The Love Song of J Alfred Prufrock" by T.S. Elliot Flowers, rocks placed by family members and a piece sign placed by youngsters -- and left as they placed it, upside down. Part of the yard art.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE GARDEN and yard at High Chaparral, a mile above sea level in the Northern Rockies, embody our clan's love of nature, the arts and family. The setting represents my belief that love transcends death. When we love people, they remain with us -- in vivid memory and stories, photos, music, deeds. "Saturn Doll" comes alive each summer at High Chaparral.  She is "dressed" by my  clever niece,Midori Otokawa, whose  brother and sister are memorialized  on the nearby granite wall. She is one of the angels in the garden. We come here -- from thousands of miles away and many states -- to commune with one another, and feel close to our ancestors' spirits, to enjoy bountiful bird life, to revel in family, to soak up Montana's summer splendor.  I'm a devoted fourth generation Montanan.  The next two generations are fifth and sixth-generation Big Sky Country connections. Some were born here, most are Montanans by heart. IN 1993  when I bought and expanded this 15 acres, I designed and commissioned a memorial for loved ones.  The year before, I'd commissioned a memorial on the campus of Montana State University-Billings, where my first husband, Bruce Kemp Meyers, taught creative writing and English for 25 years. Befitting the birthday of a Leo (Cookie), this lion batik stands sentinel in the High Chaparral garden. I'd toyed with the notion of another memorial, one which would honor my beloved "Irish twin" sister Peny.  I chose her as the "dividing line" -- she passed away in 1986.  Her death would be the first memorialized.  To go back further would have meant many more names, then were to begin? BECAUSE MY  adored sister Peny was the first of our family to choose cremation, her passing seemed a good place to begin the homage. Her ashes rest here, along with the other seven.  Our grandparents, great grandparents and those who passed in centuries before, were buried -- in the tradition of  those times in western culture. Antlers found on the grounds during walks up the mountain and along the river make an artful welcome at the  back door. The memorial also honors my parents, my two late husbands, my  youngest sister Robbie, whom I helped raise, and my tiny niece, Brooke, who died after only a day, borne into the next life in her Atlanta mother's arms. Her beautiful brother, Eric, is also honored. (He helped me set the memorial stones.) Eric was brutally murdered by a drug-crazy person who broke into his home on a sunny weekend morning. There is room for more brass plaques, although I hope not too soon. THE MEMORIAL  took shape quickly.  My dear friend, Corby Skinner, helped me choose the granite -- a hauntingly beautiful, calming grey-green-amber slab.  It came from the hills of South Africa, where I've visited. The artist who helped me build the memorial and plant the surrounding gardens is South African. So San Van Eeden's presence adds another dimension to this sacred spot in the Beartooths. It is a sanctuary for me and many. Cookie's music echoes through the canyon during memorials and celebrations, held in the garden near the spirits. A quote from T.S. Elliot's "The Love Song of J Alfred Prufrock" is engraved on the granite top. It captures the spirit this peaceful spot conveys.  Bruce Meyers taught the poem for a quarter-century. He loved "Prufrock" for its rich language, its revealing nature of the narrator's emotional state.  I like it because it sings. Petunias, a family favorite, grace the memorial and grounds. It embodies a sense of mystery, it invites us to "come along" with Prufrock.  It ponders the inexorable nature of time, the brevity of life. I SIT OFTEN  on the bench by the memorial, pondering that elusive meaning of life, listening to the birds, watching the occasional bull snake slither peacefully through the perennials in search of a snack. Rustic touches, such as a milk can from the family's Beartooth Ranch of long ago blend with contemporary art.  Patrick Cosgriffe, a gifted potter as is his brother Rick Cosgriffe, made this whimsical self-portrait pottery piece, celebrating  Christmas, hisdaughter Christena and the rivers he loves to fish. The memorial and its art -- all contributed by family and friends -- makes me happy, slows me down, helps me focus. I love it. High Chap's beauty is enhanced by construction engineer Bruce Keller.  Cookie's recent birthday served as a good reason for the family reunion. Above, part of the group gathered around the memorial for entertainment. . Expert piano tuner Michael Toia took a look at the writer's vintage upright. He is an acclaimed piano tuner, and does that full-time at Tippet Rise. UP NEXT:   The magic behind the perfectly tuned pianos at Montana's internationally acclaimed Tippet Rise Art Center is a soft spoken talent from Hawaii.  Michael Toia is a gifted tuner, known for his precision and capabilities.  He keeps the complement of Tippet Rise pianos in perfect harmony for each of the season's varied concerts.  How did he land this gig?  And what does he do in his rare spare time?  We'll share with you.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at art, travel, nature, music and travel.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Editor's Note:   Two weeks ago, we described our journey up the transplant list at Scripps Center for Organ and Cell Transplantation, a world renowned facility luckily 10 minutes from our home.  We detailed the 19-month process leading to the midnight call that a donor had been found. Now -- exactly three weeks from the surgery -- we continue the complex story of the procedure and recovery. We'll finish the three-part piece next Friday with insight into the caregiver's role and an appeal for organ donation . Our last night in Malaga in November, Keller enjoyed non-alcoholic beer while Cookie celebrated with a gin and tonic from our patio above the lovely Spanish harbor. (Local cheese, nuts, tomatoes and olives!) RIGHT UP until "the call," we'd maintained our hectic lives. Although our brilliant hepatology doctor, Catherine Frenette nixed international travel after the first of this year, she'd sanctioned a November Thanksgiving trip to our beloved Spain, including our annual trans-Atlantic crossing to the U.S. We made the most of it. It was a spectacular trip, delightful in every way -- beginning with eight days in Malaga then time in Lanzarote, our favorite of the Canary Islands. Cookie and Keller celebrated last Thanksgiving shipboard.  WE'D CONTINUED  sailing, touring my novel, biking, hiking, teaching, writing, contracting, photography missions. After we were vetted and approved for transplant, we spent six weeks in Asia. We plan international trips two and three years out and while we postponed a return trip to the Galapagos, we kept trips on the books for late 2017 and 2018, hoping my dream was correct: that "the call" would come in mid-May, which it did. After getting on the transplantation list, Keller continued to see plays -- sometimes two a week -- here with Cookie, top left, with niece Amarylla, and Cookie's sisters Misha and Olivia. By May 12, we had read copious literature and statistics, and met with more than two dozen specialists in Scripps' well orchestrated guide for this complex surgery. Like detectives studying a mystery, we learned there would be two teams of surgeons -- one harvesting the organ from the donor, another removing Keller's flawed liver and "installing" the new organ. The team would make a huge "Mercedes" incision beneath the ribs, clamp and cut vessels from the old liver before its removal then reconnect these to the new liver, sewing it in. We discovered that part of the blood to the heart would be clamped off, with tubes elsewhere to allow blood to flow around the site where the surgeons would work, returning normal amounts of blood back to the heart. Keller leaves Scripps in a record three days -- we had prepared for five to seven and three days in ICU (he was there less than a day.) WE LEARNED  that the gallbladder of the new organ would be removed, the bile duct reconnected and another "t-tube" would be inserted to monitor quantity and quality of bile the new liver is making. Dr. Christopher Marsh, chief of the transplantation department, explained later that the pain Keller is still having in his ribs is because of the sturdy clamps inserted to keep his ribs open for the hours needed to complete their work. OF THE MANY  thoughtful Scripps gestures during the long and taxing surgery,  a nurse kept me informed from the operating room at the transplant's critical stages. One of our grim considerations leading up to the transplant was that someone must die for us to receive our liver -- a curious thought.  The person whose family gave us this great gift was still alive while we were enjoying our date night three weeks ago-- a sobering thought which we contemplated as we waited, yet celebrated, that Friday night at our date night hang-out, La Jolla Shores. Transplant Tale: The Prequel Keller less than a week after surgery, with one of the attending surgeons, Dr. Jonathan Fisher. He is part of the gifted Scripps transplantation team. He earned his MD at Columbia University.  Scripps has a fine international reputation. Its surgeons and doctors are the creme de la creme of prestigious medical schools, Case in point: Dr. Jonathan Fisher, of Columbia University, who met with us before Keller was wheeled into surgery.  He explained that the surgery could take up to 12 hours, but that six or seven hours was more customary. (We finish the saga next week....please visit us.) Cookie and Keller depart Scripps Transplantation Center a record three days. Keller and our flashy new bags arrive at Parador Gibralfaro in Malaga.  Scripps' sanctioned our November trip to Europe.  Keller with his surfboard, a year ago. He plans to catch a wave in weeks. COMING NEXT:  We explore the caregiver's critical role in the transplant process and the importance of retaining one's routine and some sense of "normalcy." Here, Cookie exercises with her Jazzercise pals, niece Amarylla and great-niece Peny.  Remember to explore, learn live and catch us weekends for a novel approach to art, nature, life.

In late spring and into summer, temperatures in the Alps can dip to 15 °C (59 F), and there can still be snow on the mountain tops, as Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers discovered recently during a ride on the famed Bernina Express. HISTORIC RAIL TRIP OFFERS SPLENDID VIEWS ON BERNINA EXPRESS The viaduct outside Tirano offers spectacular Alps viewing on a delightful train journey from Italy to Switzerland. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note: this piece was updated July 17, 2026 IT'S BEEN OUR dream for 17 years to take a train trip through the Swiss Alps and transit the terrain of some of the world's highest mountain ranges. Both of us enjoy mountain views, picturesque villages and winding trails. We both love trains, too, so the irresistible combination came to us via Bernina Express. We viewed several charming villages from the train's panoramic windows. The famous train connects Chur in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy by crossing the rugged and lush Swiss Engadin Alps. For most of its journey, the train runs along the World Heritage Site known as the Rhaetian Railway. Picturesque sights abound, including this cafe, Restaurant Alp Grum in Poschiavo, Switzerland. WE BOARDED in Tirano, a picturesque Italian village, the northern Italy counterpart to the little village chosen for filming "The Godfather." People are friendly and family oriented. They love their dogs and keep tidy, small gardens. It's a lovely place to stroll the winding streets as we did from our B&B, the delightful Ostello del Castello. (More on that in next week's feature on Tirano.) Framed by Lake St. Moritz are Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller, on a unique and thrilling train trip through the mountains of Tirano, Italy into Switzerland. AFTER RESTING a couple days following a hectic time in southern Europe, we were ready to resume our adventures. We walked the mile from the hotel to the train station to await our departure from Tirano. We'd booked our reservations weeks before and found our seats in a comfy car resembling the Vista Dome of my youthful train travel. Glass ceilings in these first class cars offer a panoramic experience. Note in booking that not all the cars have these expansive windows and ceilings. AS WE traveled, we reveled in the green of the Alps, its rugged terrain, villages and meadows, snow capped peaks, alpine lakes and a remarkable viaduct. While we were on our train, friends took the Bernina Express going the opposite direction, a four-hour, 90-mile journey from icy Switzerland to sunny Italy. We reversed, starting in Italy and wending our way through 55 tunnels and 196 bridges to St. Moritz. So while we were digging light jackets out of our backpacks as temperatures dropped, our friends were shedding their sweaters as the weather warmed. Bruce Keller enjoys a stunning view during a scenic train journey to St. Moritz. Right outside our window, skiers readied their gear for an afternoon on the slopes. The train makes a few stops along the way for photos. We saw skiers and sunbathers in a single day, so varied are the temperatures and terrain. The train was built in 1896-1904 and is itself a UNESCO World Heritage site. We appreciated the train's clean, spacious seats. First class is a bit more, but worth it. Everyone was in good spirits and we met delightful people -- Americans, Australians, French, English, German, Swiss, Italians -- all bonded by an appreciation of the spectacular sights we enjoyed together. A PLEASANT attendant circulated with a refreshment trolley, offering light snacks, tea, coffee, wine and souvenirs. It is allowed to bring your own food and drinks, including wine, as several passengers did. It's a thrill to have experienced this wonderful journey. If you love trains, mountain scenery and adventure, we highly recommend this outing. For more information: The Chur–Tirano route runs daily between Chur, Switzerland and Tirano, Italy. In summer, the train continues from Tirano to Lugano some days.St. Moritz–Tirano: This shorter route runs between St. Moritz, Switzerland, and Tirano, Italy. The classic Bernina Red Train route offers panoramic carriages and requires advance ticket reservations. We took it from from Tirano to St. Moritz. Tickets begin at about 29 Euros. www.berninarailway.com For rail and ticketing elsewhere in Europe: www.eurail.com Strolling the streets of Tirano, Italy, are Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, The charming village was our base for exploring northern Italy and taking Bernina Express. Tips on Tirano next at www.whereiscookie.com UP NEXT: We spent a few relaxing days in Tirano, based at the charming Ostello del Castello, a unique family run inn in Tirano, Valtellina, Italy. Host Andreas and a welcoming staff made us instantly at home and we were surrounded by spectacular views, geraniums in window boxes, and the clanging of cowbells to greet the morning. We'll visit Tirano and its treasures with tips on combining the train trip with a village visit. Remember to explore, learn and live and check our website for more stories on train travel, top bus, trolley and food tours, hotel pointers and destination recommendations. We take a fresh spin on nature, travel, performance, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

Italy's Amalfi coast boasts winding roads with lovely views of the bay and water life below. Honolulu's harbor has beauty and history, dating back to Polynesian times, and in 1941 the attack on Pearl Harbor. SAFE, SERENE, SECURE - HARBORS GIVE US COMFORT AND HELP OUR BRAINS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The fog comes in on little cat feet. It sits looking over the harbor and city on silent haunches and then moves on. -- Carl Sandburg THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT a pretty port. A handsom harbor speaks to the world traveler. We hear the water call, "Sail away, come along, explore, enlighten, enjoy." "Keller and Cookie," aka photographer Bruce Keller and writer Christene Meyers on "their" San Diego Bay. The Wailua River on Kauai empties into the pretty bay. Some of our favorite ports and harbors include Hong Kong, Sydney, Auckland, Portofino, Cape Town, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Rio de Janeiro and Dubai. Recently, we sailed out of Venice -- one of the prettiest ports for our travelers' money, with its grand waterways, colorful water life and elegant architecture. Favorites on our home continent are San Francisco, Vancouver BC, Seattle, New York City, Boston, Providence, Quebec City, New Orleans and both Portlands -- Maine and Oregon. In Hawaii, there are a dozen lovely little harbors and bays and our favorite is on the Wailua River with a waterfall and fern grotto nearby. (Keller has water skied -- sans clothes -- on this 20-mile long stretch.) Sydney, Australia, with its gorgeous harbor highlighting the world renowned Sydney Opera House and the city's beloved Harbour Bridge. PERHAPS THE world's most recognizable harbor (harbour if you spell it the way the Brits and Aussies do) is Sydney, Australia. Its stunning Opera House and Bridge catch the light in a lovely, magical way. The world knows this famous view, with the striking Opera House in view from nearly every corner of the harbor. Malta's harbor is stunning in the gold of sunset. Whale watching in the Chilkat Preserve in Alaska's inside passage. Argostoli's harbor in the Greek Isles boasts a beautiful harbor. New York's World Trade Center, the new "Tower One," is a lovely sight from the water. We love Hans Christian Andersen's credo -- "To travel is to live" -- which captures our wanderlust belief. And to plant oneself for a few nights with a harbor view is the ultimate for us. THE SOUND of the water, the sight of life, of the comings and goings of cruise ships and freighters, seems to connect us with the eternal. Since man first settled the Earth, harbors have attracted explorers, tourists, photographers and ship's captains looking for a place to shelter their fleet and provide security for their sailors. By definition a harbor is "a place on the coast where vessels may find shelter, especially one protected from rough water by piers, jetties, and other artificial structures." But did you know that the shelter extends to one's brain? According to scientific studies, being by the sea has a positive impact on mental health. Minerals in sea air reduce stress. Negative ions increase the flow of oxygen to the brain (they're also present around waterfalls), which improves alertness and mental energy. Hats off to harbors! A trans-Atlantic cruise brought Cookie and Keller into a circle of global friends and cemented their romance. UP NEXT: When a spouse dies or a marriage ends, it's tempting to fold up the tent, enter the metaphoric convent. But remember: carpe diem, tempus fugit. Life is short, so "cowboy up" as we say in the West. Get back on the social horse. Adventure awaits. Travel, date, accept the invitation for dinner, a movie, a trip, a cruise. Connect with other humans and reap the rewards. We offer tips on surviving widowhood, loneliness or divorce from two who know: Keller and Cookie! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh take on the arts, family, nature, travel and more at www.whereiscookie.com