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When in Rome -- as Keller and Cookie are here -- check out all your airline options to continue flying high. Do your homework, shop around, be assertive, talk to a human being when in distress   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER View from a small plane approaching landing in Medford, Oregon.  WITH TODAY'S  jittery economy, federal turmoil, erratic travel costs and wear and tear that travel takes on body and soul, it would be easier to just stay home. But we wouldn't learn.  We wouldn't explore, expand, adventure or have fun! We wouldn't have an opportunity to speak other languages, sample new cuisine, savor the differences and similarities of other cultures. SO TRAVEL  we will and travel we must.  Today, we begin a series designed to help you kick your travel methods up a notch. First, we concentrate on airfares and Low-hanging clouds and blue skies await near Olbia, Sardinia, Spain. airline tips.  Saturday, we'll look at hotels and rental cars.  Then we'll segue to tips on traveling abroad, with a look at money, phones and "travel apps." We've already offered pointers on traveling with pets and picking the perfect cruise for you! TODAY , airline and flying pointers: Whether you're traveling domestic or to Europe, be wary! * First, be in control and do your homework, so you aren't caught off guard when something goes wrong. If, for instance, the kiosk won't recognize your confirmation code, don't get shunted to the back of the longest line to check in with a human. Make a polite fuss. Get an agent's attention to move you up the line so you won't miss your flight, as a friend just did leaving LAX. Be  aggressive but not rude. * If you can, try to fly on Tuesday, Wednesday or Saturday, which are cheaper than higher-priced fly days of Monday, Friday and Sunday when business travelers and vacationers are leaving and returning.  Thursday varies. *  AIRLINES OFTEN  release sale fares on Tuesdays.  The cheapest time to shop for them is 3 p.m. Tuesday, Eastern Standard Time. * If your airline charges for seat assignments and you don't want to spend more for a "comfort" or "economy plus" or upgraded seat, wait until you check-in online -- 24 hours before your flight. Then the seat assignment is free. A frequent-flier friend sets his Cookie has logged nearly five million airline miles! Not quite as many as George Clooney's film character. phone calendar to remind him 24 hours before the flight and seldom has a problem getting an aisle or window, usually farther back. * SHOP AROUND .  I am loyal to Delta, because I travel internationally with Delta and her partners, using miles I rack up on domestic travel and my American Express card.  Also reference the major search sites:  Travelocity, Expedia and Orbitz. If you don't mind more than one stop, you can get a cheaper fare taking the milk run. You'll be surprised at the differences in fares. They vary widely, especially internationally. If you're using miles, best to work through the airline, even though you'll pay a service fee, usually $25.  The airlines can make your miles go farther with a little congenial push and a human being on the phone. Miami's skyline is a high-rise maze, just as intricate as navigating airlines. * TAKE TIME  to check fares a couple or three times throughout the day before you book.  Be careful about booking until you're sure you're ready.  Airlines can update fares several times a day and some may refund the difference if a fare goes down after you book.  But check first because if a fare goes down, you may be charged a "change" or "service" fee, which can be as high as $150.  Be careful about using your hard-earned miles. The 25,000-mile coach ticket isn't always available. * In the old days, airlines offered a bereavement or "crisis" fare. Those days are gone, but usually airlines will work with you for "best available fare" if you have a sudden death, illness, accident or other emergency.  Again, take the time to call a human being.  If you have miles saved, it might behoove you to use them for this special deal.  Again, check the options. The Las Vegas skyline features many fun hotels -- here New York,  New York, with the MGM Grand's Lion keeping watch at the right. * USING MILES . Airlines release "x" amount of seats for each category -- and the 25,000-mile coach seat quota may be filled.  I've paid as much as 60,000 miles for a short-notice ticket domestic ticket to San Diego from Billings.  Reviewing the situation of that under-stress booking, I'd have been better off to have saved those miles toward international travel and paid the cash price the airline wanted for the domestic ticket --  even though it was high. Weigh the options. * Tip for picking a TSA line. Never get behind a family, with all their child apparatus, or slow-moving people. Look for a businessman with a single carry-on and his shoes and computer already   in the tray. You'll zip through faster! COMING NEXT : Our travel tips continue with pointers on hotels and car rentals.  Then we offer advice on international travel, using apps and more. Past columns have focused on cruising tips (check Jan. 27, April 20 and April 27 posts) and travel with pets (check May 4, May 8 and July 13 blogs.) Remember to explore, learn and live. Visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Nation's first national park retains its magic for all seasons A bison nibbles on the last of the autumn grasses on a recent drive through Yellowstone National Park. One of Yellowstone's 10,000 hydro-thermal features, this hot pot steams away in Norris Geyser Basin.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THANKS TO  Teddy Roosevelt and other nature loving visionaries, Yellowstone National Park has been a splendid destination for the world's travelers since its christening in 1872. "Bully" Teddy would probably have Yellowstone open today! In our high-tech age we are privileged to see the same geysers, hot pots and wildlife that lured our pioneering forebears, fascinated and fed Indians and explorers and captured the imaginations of painters and photographers. After dozens of visits, I have the same awe and respect for Yellowstone that I had as a child. DRIVING THROUGH  the gorgeous, fall-fringed Wapiti Valley to the park's east entrance, we spied our first grizzly.  Three days later, full circle as we wended our way through Mammoth and Gardiner, we spied another, a silver back. Three days and two grizzlies! Both were looking for food and the second one tossed a log over searching for grubs. Wildlife abounds -- 67 species of mammals and 320 bird species.  On our Yellowstone swansong Elk can often be seen around the Gardiner, Mammoth area. for 2013, we saw elk and bison, eagles, osprey and much more. IN THREE  magical days, we entered or exited four of the park's five entrances, missing only the Northeast, which had closed earlier in the week and has been closed and opened a couple times since. We didn't want to risk it. A snow coach trip to Yellowstone is a winter treat.  THE PARK'S  shops, galleries and restaurants cater to the Old West feeling that permeates Yellowstone. Awaiting our place in the lovely dining room at Lake Yellowstone Hotel, we enjoyed sunset and the lobby's live piano music -- Gershwin, Sondheim, Joplin. OLD FAITHFUL  Inn still draws acclaim. Architect Robert Reamer's signature blend of stone, pine and ornamentation charms, with its massive fireplace, clock and cozy ambiance. A last look at the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone as photographer Rick Cosgriffe admires the vista.   Wintertime, we've enjoyed the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, walking distance to the famous Geyser. Old Faithful isn't as reliable as it once was, but still she sprayed gloriously for us. We took the snow coach in from West Yellowstone, stopping for bison to navigate the wintry road. LARGE ICE AGE  animals adapted to the cold and wet of the Yellowstone region before becoming extinct.  But the first humans didn't arrive in the region until about 11,000 years ago.  Old Faithful attracts winter visitors, just as she does in summer. Today, hospitality, scenery and recreation combine to charm and delight people of all ages and backgrounds to Yellowstone's varied stores, eateries, lounges and cabins. There's something for everyone in a food-and-lodging range from simple cabins and cafes to lavish dining, with suites and condos offering stunning views. IN OUR BRIEF  visit, we heard a dozen languages and shared the beauty with Japanese, Italians, Germans, Swiss, French and Norwegians. Leaving our Lake cabin, we sipped cappuccino near a family from Mumbai, spellbound by the exotic critters and steaming pools. THE SAME  spectacular scenery that welcomed yesterday's mavericks and outlaws lures today's summer guests, winter's cross-country skiers and year-round appreciators of natural wonder with modern hospitality. Wintertime lodging is cut back when much of the park closes the first Sunday in November, but it's possible to visit by snow coach and other snow vehicles mid-December to mid-March. The park reopens for wheeled vehicles in mid-April. The north and northeast entrances are open year-round as is the road from Gardiner to Cooke City. The famous Roosevelt Arch in Yellowstone. For road updates, call 307 344-2117.  Nearby West Yellowstone offers a variety of year-round lodging. Contact Xanterra Parks and Resorts for information, reservations and timelines. 866 439-7375 or visit YellowstoneNationalParkLodges.com If travel is in your future, improve your horizons with upcoming tips. COMING WEDNESDAY:  Become a better traveler with tips on navigating the airways, stretching your dollar, flying in comfort and staying in control of your travel time. Pointers from our nearly 10-million mile savvy travelers await. await! Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

PLAN AHEAD, BUDGET, DON'T OVER-ORCHESTRATE, SHOP AND EAT LOCAL Fresh flowers for the hotel room are a must for Cookie -- here  she chooses at a Rome stall near the Vatican. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT'S EASY  to get tired on a long trip, no matter how exciting the destinations or events. You've worked hard for your vacation, you've done your homework. You've made certain you won't be financially strapped or physically and emotionally exhausted when you return home. A visit to the Alpenhof Lodge in Teton Village meant staying Saturday through Monday, to honor the rule. Here are a few antidotes to depression of the pocketbook and spirits while on holiday: *  SAVE and BUDGET.  I usually have three or four big trips on the books and several long weekends ahead, so I'm constantly saving and stashing money aside for travel.  I like to pay my first night's hotel when I book (it's easily refunded if you cancel within the given period) and I put something aside each month for travel.  If you do something for "extra money" -- in my case, playing piano at various venues a few nights a month -- make that your "travel boot."  Buy traveler's checks or begin accumulating Euros as far ahead as you can.  Even $25 a month can give you more money for more fun on your trip. *  THE TWO-NIGHT , three-day rule.  It's our own invention and we honor it!  We never spend less than three days and two nights in a place.  That way, we get to know the town or village and can truly savor the surroundings.  We also take a longer break in a three or four-week trip, about mid-point -- usually for five days.  It's a wonderful way to lift spirits, regroup, repack, rest and recharge. Use hotel resources to find to eateries -- here Pangea in Ashland, Oregon. * TREAT YOURSELF.   We always have fresh flowers in the room -- even a $5 bouquet can cheer the place and the hotel, inn or B&B will be glad to send up a vase. Or use the room service cream pitcher or coffee carafe if you're feeling improvisational. You can also dry a flower or two in a favorite travel book to take home for a pretty, memory-jogging bookmark. * DON'T BE SHY .  I have no problem asking questions, seeking advice, consulting others as I travel.  I am not embarrassed to be a tourist.  I've been one all my life and am proud of my curiosity, manners and global interests.  Your hotel concierge or desk clerk is an invaluable resource.  He or she can point you to restaurants, obtain difficult theater tickets, scare up a rental car and recommend off-beat sightseeing. A couple consults the check-in staff at Ashland Springs Hotel, for tips on the town. * Tipping.  I always leave something for the maid in Europe or anywhere abroad.  Remember special courtesies or service.  Europeans have a different attitude toward service.  It's a time honored profession and waiters are paid better.  Still, look to see if the gratuity is included, then act accordingly. * LEARN AT LEAST  a bit of the language. I have a couple dozen Berlitz language books, some of them As the suitcases are unpacked, evaluate the usefulness of their contents and pitch what you don't need! beautifully battered.  I write the date of each trip and it's a lovely memory.  I always take the appropriate language guides to my countries of destination.  Even a few words help transcend the culture gap and show you're willing to try.  My college French serves me well even in Paris, known for its contempt of foreigners who insist on English.  I've never met a Frenchman I didn't like. And I thank them all now for putting up with my lousy accent and appreciating my attempt in good spirit! (Sometimes they even answer in their native tongue -- that's high praise.) * Settle your bill the night before. You have time to look it over and correct any mistakes. * Eat and sleep where the locals do -- bistros, tavernas, government run paradors or pousadas -- to save money and discover unique places. COMING SOON :  We continue our travel tips series with pointers on packing.  There's a real art to it if you want to arrive and return relaxed, rejuvenated and organized!  We'll share essential elements to sane packing and a lighter, freer, happier you on the road!  Remember to explore, learn, live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

If you want to be able to laze and relax once you get there, plan ahead.   PREP TIME BEFORE TRIP ALLOWS MORE TIME TO ENJOY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU PLAN  ahead for your hotel stay and car rental, you won't waste precious time on the road negotiating for a room or vehicle. It's wise to spend a couple days nailing down all the details for your lodging and transportation before you fly out of town or country. First, hotels:  Cookie toasts good planning in the lovely Altis Belem Hotel in  Lisbon. The hotel was booked months ahead. * MOST OF US  go on line to find room rates, but it's a good idea to call the hotel directly after you fine rates.  Ask for a discount.  The websites often tout "lowest price" because they're selling themselves.  I've often been given a discount by hauling out all my memberships:  AARP, AAA, and mentioning my frequent business travel.  You may qualify for a corporate or senior rate.  Ask. Most hotels do a room inventory that expires each night, so you might call at a time when you can save $15 or $20. Don't call the chain's toll-free number.  Call the individual property. * I HAVE  a friend who swears by Priceline's Name Your Own Price auction.  Another friend loves TheBiddingTraveler.com .  It provides advice for manual bidding and will submit bids on your behalf.  You enter a "lowball" bid and a "final offer" then its AutoBid begins bidding with your lowest Cookie meets a old friend, Lucilla, a noted historian, at the Rome airport.  offer, automatically raising your bid in increments until one is accepted or the highest offer is rejected. * WE'VE ALSO booked short trips with Groupon Getaways, Overstock's Vacations, Yuupon and Living Social.  All offer deals but many are not as unique or enticing as advertised.  Last year we booked a long weekend in Mexico through Groupon then had to cancel three weeks out, well within the terms of the initial agreement.  It took three months and endless faxing and phoning to get the $750 credited back to our card, so be sure you know when you want to go and hope you don't have an emergency that necessitates cancelling.  Print out all your documentation as you go, and keep good records. Keller prepares to take the wheel in Spain. * WATCH OUT for short redemption periods. Be wary.   Usually they are up to a year, but I lost nearly $800 once booking a sweet sounding five-day trip to Hawaii.  The redemption window was only six months, and I hadn't paid proper attention. When I went to confirm actual dates, the "bargain" had expired. If you don't think you'll go for awhile -- or don't know when you might be able to take advantage of "the bargain," perhaps it is not worth risking. * There are fun aps for hotel booking.  One is called Hotel Tonight, so if you have a smartphone, you can find the name of the hotel before you buy.  Sometimes you can land good last-minute rates, too, by calling the hotel after the 24-hour cancelation.  The no-show people who don't want to get charged for the night will have called to release their rooms. * CONSIDER  upgrading to a larger room especially if you're traveling with a family.  Sometimes you can get a much larger space -- a corner room or suite -- rather than booking a second room.  An upgrade might also offer the incentive of a hot tub or complimentary breakfast, and may cost only $20 or $30 more. Now, for car tips: Key Largo hotels and condos offer plenty of activity in nearby environs.  * When possible, rent other than at the airport.  It's often cheaper in a downtown or suburban location. Sometimes airports tack on extra fees. Again, check it out first. * If you arrive in the evening and are planning to travel only to your hotel the first night, call the hotel shuttle to get yourself there for just the driver's tip, and save an extra day's car rental fee. * Many of the big car rental companies offer an on-line discount for paying ahead. * Be careful about renting a car in one city and dropping off in another. Establish the rate at the beginning to avoid penalty fees.  Cookie's got the keys for a rental car in Sardinia. Off to explore! * IF YOU'RE  renting for four or five days, check the weekly rate.  It is often cheaper than the daily rate times four or five. * Don't be afraid of renting a car in Europe or elsewhere abroad.  We've done it the past five years -- always with success.  Interestingly, European rental car rates have been cheaper than domestic for us, plus you get the fun of driving at your own pace in an exotic location. COMING WEDNESDAY:   We continue our travel tips with a look at foreign travel and how to make the most of your time abroad -- packing, picnics, phone apps, paradors and more! Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at:   www.whereiscookie.com

A HOTEL WITH HEART, AMBIANCE, SOCIAL CONSCIENCE, TOP-NOTCH SERVICE The Pan Pacific Hotel's appointments are artful and Asian inspired, creating an atmosphere both soothing and stimulating.  Above, a view from the 10th floor elevator and at right, the tastefully decorated lobby. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THROUGH MY  years of travel, I've developed two hotel ratings lists --  "top ten" and "ten worst." It changes with new finds -- sublime inns and guest houses that do everything right. Then there are the occasional stinkers. Today, a find! A real treasure. A RECENT  visit to Seattle's seductive Pan Pacific has me adjusting my list.  Either Pan Pacific will replace one of the other outstanding discoveries, or my list will grow from Every staff member exhibits personality and concern for the guest, here Ryan Crosby greets Cookie at the hotel's entrance. Above left, the attractive neighborhood include community minded  philanthropies, such as the Bill and Melinda  Gates Foundation. Upscale restaurants,   Nordstrom's flagship, galleries amd boutiques are also near Pan Pacific.   "top ten" to "elegant eleven." Here's why: * PAN PACIFIC  looks beautiful and welcoming -- with tasteful contemporary art, live plants and pride in service!  A pretty outdoor dining and relaxing area beckons as a staff member welcomes you. The Pan Pacific specializes in personalized service, the kind well heeled businessmen and world travelers are  Pan Pacific's ice chests are attractive wooden containers. accustomed to.  The staff conveys an authentic interest in the guest. From the moment we were picked up by Jason and the courtesy limo, to our departure a few days later, we felt pampered, cared about and part of the Pan Pacific family.  The front desk manager wished us safe travels as he escorted us to our car. * GUEST ROOMS  are spacious and handsomely decorated, with thought to relaxing colors and fabric, top technology and an artistic Asian American flair.  Because Pan Pacific Hotel and Resorts spans the Pacific Rim, the elegant chain showcases the art of that vast region from North America's west coast across Asia to the coastlines of Australia.  My first Pan Pacific stay was in Singapore years ago, and I was reminded in its Seattle property of the many genteel touches. (Ice for the rooms is stored in an attractive wooden chest, looking like a piece of furniture.) Some of the Pan Pacific's spacious suites have telescopes. * PAN PACIFIC  Hotel Seattle offers spectacular views including one of the attractive Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, the star of the progressive neighborhood.  We gazed at the Space Needle from sunrise coffee to sunset cocktails, relishing Seattle's gorgeous skyline with its multi-hued colors.  Located at 2200 Westlake Plaza, it's a superb location.  We walked a few steps to Whole Foods for wine and cheese. Nordstrom's (the flagship store), a fun deli, boutiques and a couple fun bars are within strolling distance.  We enjoyed a brisk and refreshing 20-minute walk to the pier to catch the ferry to  Seattle's colorful waterfront is near --  a few blocks of pleasant strolling. Bainbridge.  The property is only 20 auto minutes from Seattle Tacoma International Airport, and a few blocks from Seattle's efficient and much used high speed train, which travels to the airport in a speedy half hour. * THIS IS A hotel with a social conscience.  Seattle's Pan Pacific recycles gently used soaps and toiletries to a nearby women's shelter, observes the "use your towel again" green rule and donates "unpresented" excess food from the catering department to Seattle's hungry, through projects and shelters.  The energy efficient Pan Pacific has a "Social Responsibility Committee" whose thrust is "giving back to the community."  The property's savvy community relations manager Ryan Crosby says the operation is both civic minded and eco-friendly top to bottom -- even the building's shell and core were made from recycled materials. A fitness center, complete spa and whirlpool await. * PAN PACIFIC  is a well mannered inn. The staff is enlightened and gracious at every turn. The concierge mailed an art poster home for us, and made arrangements for a harbor cruise. The porter fetched us ice and brought a morning paper without our asking when he delivered our bags. It's obvious the staff enjoys its work and makes easy connections with guests.  Our drivers, concierge and waiters were personable, articulate and courteous, as was everyone we encountered. What an impression this makes. * AMENITIES , activities abound at Pan Pacific.  We happened to hit the Tuesday night wine tasting, when Pan Pacific invites vintners to set up shop and share their wares.  Locals and tourists mingled to sample both Washington and French wines near the fireplace.  Fun! We loved our room's Shoji screen doors, high-speed wireless, 42-inch flat screen TV and European soaking tub, added in a massive 2011 renovation. The state-of-the-art coffee maker actually steams the water, allowing for delicious coffee and tea in your robe and slippers, also provided at Pan Pacific.  Pan Pacific's pretty, eco-friendly bathrooms feature compact flourescent lighting, dual flush toilets, low-flow shower heads and deep soaking tubs. *  PHYSICAL COMFORTS  lure guests.  A luxurious, upscale Vida Spa features 18 treatment rooms and every manner of engaging body and mind-nurturing offering.  A spacious fitness center tempted us, but we were having too much fun. Still, it's a must for long trips or the frequent business traveler, and several businessmen and women were working out in the 4,200 square foot facility, which is steps away from the lovely spa. Whirlpools and dry saunas are at your fingertips, too. * IF YOU  don't want to leave Pan Pacific, you don't have to.  The hotel offers 24-hour room service and a fabulous breakfast menu.  Our waiter, a native of Thailand, was gracious and accommodating and the The Pan Pacific's spacious rooms are elegant, comfy.  salmon omelettes, muffins and eggs Benedict were beautifully presented. The hotel's Seastar Restaurant and Raw Bar are award-winning. * BRING YOUR  pup! Hooray for Pan Pacific for devoting part of its splendid space to dog friendly digs.  Increasingly, the best hotels are doing this, and we met several friendly pups during our stay.  We promised our new friends we'd return with our beloved Yorkies, Nick and Nora.  Turns out the restaurant manager has Yorkies, too:  hers are Sophie and Annabel! * SPECIAL SPLURGE . If you really want to pamper yourself, Pan Pacific will tailor a wine tasting so you may select wines to accompany your meal (en suite or in the lovely restaurant.) Seastar's acclaimed Chef and owner John Howie, is hands on Seattle's acclaimed Space Needle may be seen from many parts of the hotel. with an international  menu that features fresh local ingredients, inspired seafood and meat offerings (the herbed halibut, melt-in-mouth tenderloin and spicy ahi are divine). Howie's global preparations are delivered with precision and flair. YOU MAY also sample tasty sushi, sashimi, ceviche, poke and freshly shucked oysters. Or if you wish to go light, try a tasty club sandwich, crisp and tangy Caesar salad or thick creamy soup. We celebrated Keller's birthday, toasting the Space Needle and our wish to return to this perfect property soon! For rates and reservations, email: ofcourse@panpacific.com or go to www.panpacificseattle www.panpacific.reservation counter.com 2125 Terry Avenue, Seattle, Wash., 98121. 1 800 992-2694. COMING UP:  Take a train ride into the wilds of Alaska, on Skagway's White Pass and Yukon Railway. Then join Cookie and Keller to mark "Cruise 100" -- with a tour of the Carnival Miracle bridge escorted by Captain Luca Lazzarino! Oh, yes, and a zillion-calorie cake is enjoyed by all! Plus a tribute to our beloved, adopted "Papa," Grady Martin, who turns 90 on Sept. 26. How did he manage life's ups and downs -- "mostly ups," he says.  The piece will post on his birthday eve, Sept. 25. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check out our Wednesday and Saturday posts at www.whereiscookie.com

Some of the world's most rugged terrain challenged engineers who built this trestle on the steep hillside. RUGGED RAIL RIDE TAKES TRAVELERS INTO ALASKA'S SPECTACULAR GOLD RUSH TERRAIN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS White Pass and Yukon conductors bring the train home from the hills. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT'S DIFFICULT  to imagine our forefathers blasting a train track through the granite rock of Alaska's spectacular White Pass in the winter freeze of minus 60 degrees. But they did! We followed in their footsteps -- the easy way.  With binoculars and bottled water, not pick-axes, dynamite and hungry horses. We recently answered the "all aboard" call to ride the spectacular iron trail outside Skagway. DEPARTING  Carnival's Miracle, we walked just steps to the convenient platform of the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, a daring endeavor of the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. Travelers are all eyes as the train offers stunning views on both sides. Built through some of the world's most rugged and spectacular terrain, the narrow gauge railway is still in operation, using old-fashioned parlor cars much like the originals. A narrated train journey takes travelers deep  into Yukon territory. As we left colorful Skagway behind, we climbed a steep grade past gorgeous falls, gulches, canyons and riverbeds, heading to White Pass Summit which is the international boundary between the U.S. and Canada. We'd taken a self-guided walking tour of Skagway earlier, to enjoy the dog sled and whale whaling lore, and admire the Skagway Street Car and signature yellow buses.  We also visited the Keller poses in downtown Skagway where historic rail cars are on show and visitors can walk or shuttle to ships. world famous Red Onion Saloon's Brothel Museum -- every gold rush needs ladies of the evening. Keller passed on a good time girl and instead took a look at the steam engine and a gold panning exhibit.  Teddy Roosevelt visited Skagway, named for the Tlingit word, "skagua" meaning "windy place." The pretty little town is famous for sled dogs, gardens, glassware and for being the childhood home of Sarah Palin! ("Can you see Russia?" our guide joked! "Sarah says it's right over there.") Scenic rail trip aboard the historic White Pass and Yukon Route Railway offers a chance to step outside the car as did this passenger and Cookie, left. AFTER OUR nifty morning Skagway grounding, we boarded our White Pass car, made ourselves comfy, gazed and listened. A lively commentary described the building of this legendary railroad and the brave men who cut grade on Tunnel Mountain and other foreboding hills to accommodate the frenzied gold miners. THE HISTORY  dates to 1896 when George Carmack and two Indian companions, Skookum Jim and Dawson Charlie, found a few flakes in Bonanza Creek in the Klondike.  Although their discovery barely filled the spent cartridge of a Winchester rifle, it triggered a stampede for riches.  The Klondike gold Rush was on. A detail of the massive snow plow used by the train in winter. Our knowledgeable guide didn't sugarcoat this colorful episode in history.  It had its tragic side. More than 30 men were killed during the building of 110 miles of track and many horses and pack animals plunged to their deaths or starved. NOT ALL miners thought to bring proper horse feed or treat their faithful pack animals with care. Some of the work took place in dead of winter when heavy snows blocked the 16-degree turns and temperatures plunged to 60 degrees below zero. Skagway disappears as the train heads up the mountain. Amazingly, the rugged railway's construction was swift.  It began in May of 1898 and continued through a daunting winter. Workers reached the Summit of White Pass in February of 1899. THE INTERNATIONAL effort cost $10 million, a collaborative effort combining British financing, American engineering and Canadian contracting.  More than 10,000 men and 450 tons of explosives overcame climate and geography. The miracle of steel, timber and ingenuity was designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994, sharing the honor with the Eiffel Tower, Statue of Liberty and Panama Canal. Views from the train are dramatic -- here jagged mountain peaks afar. CHIEF VISIONARY  behind the project, many believe, was Skagway founder, Captain William Moore.  He predicted a gold rush and built a sawmill and wharf and helped blaze the trail to the Summit of White Pass, named for the Canadian minister of the interior, Sir Thomas White. Today's visitors don't have to worry about tumbling off a rocky cliff, losing a horse to starvation or suffering hunger and thirst themselves. Dense old growth pine forests flank Skagway River.  THE GREEN  and yellow White Pass rail fleet includes 20 diesel-electric locomotives, 82 restored replica passenger coaches and two steam locomotives.  An ongoing modernization program keeps the fleet in tip-top condition, for it is one of Skagway's favorite tourist pursuits. We enjoyed the cars' names -- they're all christened after lakes and rivers in Alaska, Yukon and British Columbia.  Most are at least 40 years old.  Lake Tutshi, vintage 1893, which starred in the 1935 movie, "Diamond Jim Brady," or Lake Lebarge, which carried Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip on the same trek we took -- back in 1959. The oldest car is Lake Emerald, built in 1883 and still traveling the line. Picturesque Skagway is home to sled dogs and mushers, beer makers, glass blowers, fishermen and wood carvers. We learned from our guide that there are actual  foot trails, including Chilkoot, leading  to the interior lake country where stampeeders began their 550-mile journey to the Yukon River and gold fields.  Both the railroad's White Pass route, and the Chilkoot Trail are filled with hazards. Various enterprising people tried to cash in on the miners, including George Brackett, a one-time construction engineer who built a 12- mile toll road up White Pass canyon. So long, Skagway, as the White Pass train returns,  from its rugged and scenic ride. ANGRY MINERS  tossed the toll gates down a ravine and his road was a failure. Brackett made out well, eventually, when White Pass and Yukon Railroad Company organized and paid him $110,000 for the a right-of-way. Along our return route, back towards Skagway with its quaint pastel buildings, we took a last look at the Sawtooth Mountains and admired the bright colored flora: golden arnica, pink fireweed, purple monkshood, scarlet columbine, lavender geranium, white yarrow and the deep red berries of the mountain ash. Skagway is not to be missed. History, spectacular scenery and a rail ride that some consider the world's most scenic. Carnival Miracle awaits our travelers as Cookie continues her 100th cruise. More on that is coming....   Coming Wednesday: Happy birthday tribute to 'Papa' Grady Martin, 90 soon, here with Nick on the West Fork.  COMING NEXT: A salute to "Papa," our Montana neighbor Grady Martin, who will be 90 next week! Then join Cookie and Keller on a landmark "100th cruise" celebration, with reflections on Cookie's global cruising -- from barging and wine tasting in the French countryside, to canal tulip cruises in Holland, Atlantic crossings on  the venerable Queen Elizabeth II, lazing in the Mediterranean and Greek Isles and transiting the Panama Canal. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out  weekly at:                                                           www.whereiscookie.com

The harbor at Avalon, the major village in Catalina, is a colorful place to park your boat. California island offers restful, scenic time out-- the tune that made it famous lives on! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  " Twenty six miles across the sea, Santa Catalina is awaitin' for me, Santa Catalina, the island of romance, romance, romance, romance." Set sail for easy-going Catalina and you won't be sorry.      THE FOUR PREPS'  hit song of 1957 was inspired by singer Bruce Belland's teenage affection for Santa Catalina and spring baseball training. Living through a chilly Chicago winter as a kid, he was mesmerized by  newsreels of his beloved Chicago Cubs practicing under the swaying palms of a place he longed to visit. Many years later, the song came to him.  He was recovering from a broken limb and still fantasizing about "the island of romance, romance, romance." HIS SONG  made him -- and the island -- famous, inspiring Jimmy Buffet and many other singers with its comforting, tropical tone. Relaxation seekers board a Point Dana boat for Catalina. The pretty little island is only 21 miles long and eight miles wide, and the principal town is the picturesque Avalon, on Catalina's southeast corner. The smaller settlement of Two Harbors is on the other end, at Catalina's isthmus, northwest end. IT'S ACTUALLY  closer to 80 miles from San Diego, but whether you sail from Los Angeles, or farther south, be prepared for a beautiful look at the sea and a charming experience once you're there. You can reach Catalina by sea or air and crossing time by boat ranges from an hour or 90 minutes, to eight or 10 hours, depending from where you depart, and by what mode of transportation. You can go by sea or air and the Catalina Express is the most popular mode of transportation, departing from Dana Point, a lovely coastal town between San Diego and Los Angeles. Catalina's town of Avalon is tucked against the hills.  Many people take their private boats between the mainland and the island, which was likely settled about 2,500 years ago by the Gabrielino Indians. Historians believe they came there centuries ago, as early as 5000 B.C. Europeans didn't discover it until 1542, about 50 years after Columbus, when Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo found it during his quest for the mythical passage between the Atlantic and Pacific. "Water all around it everywhere  Tropical trees and the salty air  But for me the thing that's a-waitin' there -- romance" Young people from the mainland enjoy a weekend Catalina get-away. Today,Catalina is a get-away for families and couples.  It's pace is slower than the mainland's, and it's much closer than Hawaii, with several nice hotels and B&Bs, and a half-dozen or more excellent restaurants, ranging from nautical-themed pizza and chicken joints, to cocktail lounges, to steak and seafood places, and Italian complete with homemade pesto and extensive seafood and veal entrees. AS THE  song suggests, it is romantic, with fine beaches, inviting tennis courts, and places to hike, camp, golf and deep-sea fish. Bikes can be rented and everyone who lives there gets around in golf carts, helping maintain balance in the fragile environment. Cars are mostly not allowed on most of Catalina, so the locals and visitors use gold carts primarily. There is also a variety of adventure, undersea and glass-bottom boat options developed by Catalina Adventure Tours . IF YOU'RE  a history buff and are interested in steamships, you'll enjoy the Catalina Island Museum in Avalon, with its interactive exhibit chronicling the history of steamship transportation.  And our songwriting Mr. Belland would be happy to see that his beloved Chicago Cubs are immortalized in a part of the exhibi which focuses on their spring training. The William Wrigley family, of the chewing gum fortune, was responsible for much of the island's development as a resort and sport fishing paradise.  The Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Garden, two miles south of Avalon, honors Wrigley Jr., who was It's possible to truly get away in Catalina, especially off season! instrumental in the island's development and garden plans.  The beautiful garden features an extensive succulent collection. The Santa Catalina Island Conservancy helps preserve the island's native flora and fauna and now owns 88 per cent of the island. IT'S NOT  widely known, but it's a fact that bison inhabit Catalina, too. The Conservancy helps keep the herd to about 200 -- optimum for best survival -- down from the 400 that once grazed here. The bison history dates back to the 1920s when a half-dozen were brought here for a movie that was never made.  They've been in the news lately, because of a progressive birth control program introduced by the Conservancy, involving dart gun and effective birth control. " Forty kilometers in a leaky old boat  Any old thing that'll stay afloat  When we arrive we'll all promote romance, romance, romance, romance." This pretty building reflects the island's Mediterranean architecture.  TODAY's BOATS  are mostly yachts -- no leaks now -- and only tour buses and cars with permit stickers are allowed outside the Avalon area. If you want to see the bison, or go on a boat for fishing, snorkeling or pleasure, you'll need to go through Catalina Adventure Tours or Santa Catalina Island Company Discovery Tours. You can google the island for accommodations and find the range of hotels and eateries. The lovely Seacrest Inn, El Terado Terrace and Hotel Metropole caught our eyes while we were staying with friends.  The Catalina Courtyard Garden Wing has dog friendly digs in its pretty dozen A pelican stretches in the sun of Catalina Island. units.  Next time, we'll check that out with our Yorkies, Nick and Nora.  The Villa Portofino is on the ocean right in Avalon. And several smaller properties, including Hotel St. Lauren, MacRae and Atwater, look picturesque and welcoming, too. Check with the Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce and enjoy.  Just remember to "stay afloat" -- which you'll need to do in your pursuit of romance, romance, romance, romance! COMING SATURDAY : Next up, a two-part feature on Montana -- splendid in its summer glory. First, on Saturday, we spotlight a popular eatery in the little town of Dean.  Montana Jack's Bar and Grill and the Stillwater Saloon draw crowds in a rural setting with an "uptown" menu and eel to it.  Then we take a look next time at the splendors under the Big Sky.  Then we're on to a bit of history on the Alberta Bair Museum, the largest performing arts complex in the northern Rockies.   Remember to explore, learn and live. And keep reading us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Grady Martin poses in his wonderful summer garden at home on the Stillwater River. Widower rebounds after loss and 66 year marriage with gardening, travel, birds, dogs, friends STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HE'S 90  years old tomorrow, and he's the only thing between me and the orphanage. Grady savors a meal with Cookie and Keller at La Jolla   Shores Restaurant near their San Diego home. My sweet neighbor, Grady Martin, nicknamed "Papa" by me 18 years ago, is as American as apple pie. A self-made man, veteran, father, devoted husband for 66 years and my pal during my West Fork summers in Montana, Papa  traveled the world, returning to his adored Montana to build his retirement home in 1995. He became our family's cherished "grandfather figure," part of every celebration, reunion and memorial. When his wife Kathy passed away three summers ago, folks speculated that Papa might not make it. But after a couple difficult years and a bout with pneumonia, Papa is back in fine fettle and ready to celebrate his 90th. BORN IN  1923, he grew up in rural Florida, raised by his mother and grandmother.  He lost his only sibling, Jackie, at a young age. He says he never went hungry, but recalls eating "plenty of beans, biscuits and Grady and his brother  Jackie, circa 1928. veggies from our garden." Kathy and Grady with their  daughter Pam, circa 1945. "I was probably what we'd consider poor now," says Grady. "But I didn't know the difference.  Most everybody was in my boat. We kept cheerful, worked hard and didn't complain." In 1940, in his senior year of college, Grady won a 4-H trip to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania.  There he met the love of his life, a Billings, Montana, girl, Kathy Suiter.  "She was chosen for her cooking ability and I for farming," laughs Grady. "We went on all the tours together, holding hands in the bus." Nick and Nora with Papa in San Diego. AT THE END  of the conference, they promised to write. In those pre-World War II days, courting was by letter.  The two corresponded, and after a year of college at University of Florida, Grady traveled to Oregon to work for the Forest Service near Bend. Each was dating other people, "but we kept in touch," says Grady. They arranged -- all by letter -- for Grady to return to Florida via Montana. He took the bus to Billings where Kathy met him and ushered him home to meet her family. Cookie and "Papa" christen a wllow in Kathy's memory. "Then she decided to come visit me in Florida over Christmas," remembers Grady. In the shadow of Pearl Harbor, Kathy took the train.  "It wasn't long after she arrived that we decided to get married," says Grady. THE LONG marriage included Grady's World War II Army service in Europe.  Kathy wrote love letters.  Grady responded.  They had four children: Pam, Doug, Marty and Sean.  The three sons will be in Montana for the celebration.  Pam died in 1989.   Grady has achieved what few people do:  he's been retired longer than he worked, mostly at Grady & Cookie  share a sunset picnic over looking La Jolla Shores. Western Airlines (bought up by Delta, after Grady's retirement!) He and his family still travel on Delta and her partners, using "non-rev" or stand-by passes. It's a fitting perk for a guy who still loves travel. He worked the ticket counter in Billings, then Phoenix, and finally San Diego, all places dear to his heart. "Now, I am content to stay put," says Grady, surveying his handsome corn crop on the Stillwater's West Fork. Last year, he visited Keller and me at our town home in La Jolla. He twice crossed the Pacific to spend time with son Sean in Maui, where he and Kathy loved to vacation. Grady and Keller barbeque fresh trout on the "Stillwater Beach," below Grady's house. He also visited Phoenix friends, and made a couple trips to Seattle where his other sons have lived. Marty, a builder and handyman, recently moved to Montana and hopes to stay here to keep his dad company. DESPITE A low-grade leukemia that requires a monthly blood infusion, our Papa keeps fit -- walking, gardening, chopping wood, helping keep my lawn green and flowers watered when I'm cavorting. He still cranks up the barbecue and plays pinochle Monday nights, shows up at church occasionally, although he's an avowed agnostic. ("I'd say atheist but it makes people jumpy.") He is known for his kindness, amiable nature and appreciation of our environment. He even planted petunias and lilacs at Nye Post Office. Grady tucks into mussels, fish tacos and wine with Cookie and Keller at La Jolla Shores Restaurant. Since Kathy died (she called herself my "mountain Mama") Papa and I established a ritual of dining together several nights a week.  The evenings includes "Jeopardy," a glass of wine on his deck and lively conversation while I rustle us up a stir fry or pasta.  Often, Papa prepares salad with veggies from his garden, full circle to his childhood. Having lost both my parents now, my beloved Papa is a sounding board -- the compassionate, thoughtful elder we all need, no matter how old we are. PAPA FIGURES  his European travel is likely ended, and doesn't intend to reprise the skydiving escapade of his 75th birthday. Grady gives travel advice for Cookie's frequent commutes between Montana and California. But he has promised to come see us in San Diego in 2014, where we treat him to a mean fish taco. He's talking about next year's garden. He still loves to study maps, keeps the coffee pot on for pop-in guests, likes a glass of wine, fills his bird feeder, indulges in a cookie or two at the post office, and admires a Beartooth sunset. All good signs that he's here for awhile! "I'm one lucky guy," he says, gazing at the mountains which frame his home. So are we to know you, Papa. Love you, and happy, happy birthday! Cookie, Keller, Captain Lazzarino and officers. COMING UP : We celebrate my 100th cruise with pointers on cruising, a look at barge and large-ship travel, and a visit to the bridge with Captain Luca Lazzarino onboard Carnival's Miracle. We also look at Holland-America, Crystal, Celebrity, Oceania, Cunard and other favorite lines.  Then we continue our revels in Portugal and one of the country's most elegant hotels, Altis Belem, overlooking the Tagus River harbor. Remember to explore, learn and live. And check us out at: www.whereiscookie.com

Take a walk in a garden to cure what ails you Dahlias recall the photographer's childhood with his mother painting and arranging flowers and his dad growing them. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  Apples and sunflowers glisten in September sun. MY PARTNER and the photographer for our essays has a soft spot in his heart for flowers. No surprise. His mother, Jean, painted them -- lilies, tulips, chrysanthemums, daisies, the exotic orange bird of paradise and hummingbird-friendly fuschia. His dad, Bill, grew them -- roses mostly, and fruit trees including pomegranate. Keller has been taking photos of flowers since his bloom-loving parents gave him a Brownie box camera for his 10th birthday. AS A CHILD  then teen-ager, he took thousands of photos of flowers --  climbing around on the beaches of his home stomping grounds, near Oceanside, California, where the morning glories bloom in the sand and geraniums grow like weeds in street alleys and up hillsides. Now, during Montana get-aways, he is having a floral field day with the roses that are sharing their showy "hips," He's zooming in on cactus flowers, daisies, alyssum, hollyhocks and even thistle and catnip. Here in the northern Rockies, at High Chaparral, we have yarrow and honeysuckle, snapdragons and cosmos, zennias and the largest day lilies I've ever grown. High Chaparral in Montana provides a regal setting for flowers. I learned to sort cosmos  from my Irish gran, who taught me to carefully separate the petals from the seeds, and store them in a dry spot for planting next spring. She served up small, tasty floral lore, including the little known fact that alyssum, her favorite border flower, is a fragrant member of the mustard family. SO THIS  is an homage to the beauty of flowers and those who tend them, a salute to the world of blooms which surrounds us. I am thankful for their offerings: the rainbow's hues, the fragrance of nature's finest perfume. To flowers! To those seductive enticers of bees and hummingbirds -- and to the blooms which lured a couple of lucky kids with cameras into the wondrous world of gardens thousands of miles apart. A bee feasts on the daisy, which the writer considers one of her favorites. I'm thinking of my daisy loving gran, now. And the kid from southern California is remembering that first sight of his dad's deep red and coral roses. THE ONES  Keller most fondly remembers from his dad's garden are the succulent red roses.  He says they "dripped color" and that in the moist ocean air, their scent seasoned the entire house and patio. He doesn't remember precisely which one was his dad's favorite, but his rose "dictionary" runs the gamut of the alphabet, from  "Ain't She Sweet" and "Apricot Nectar" to "Beach Rose" and "Blast Off" to "Evening Star,"  "Double Delight,"  "Peace," "Penelope," and "Purple Puff."  He recalls "Sterling Silver" "Sundowner," "Timless," "Tora Tora,"  "Valentine" "Veteran's Honor." He remembers "Whisper," "Zephirine" and a gorgeous peach-colored rose, one his mother painted along with pink and yellow dahlia. She won a blue ribbon in floral arranging at the Del Mar Home and Garden Show in San Diego County. The writer invites the reader into her Montana garden and climbing roses. KELLER'S DAD knew which roses had few thorns, which were climbers, which tolerated mediocre soil, which bloomed all season, which were prone to mildew. At High Chap, we have climbing roses, which shoot their gorgeous deep pink blooms up a fence and onto a nearby cedar gate. The combination of running water fed from an ancient spring box, and the proliferation of rose blooms -- now entering their showy red "rose hip" stage -- attracts visitors. RECENTLY,  we've had deer -- a doe and her twin fawns -- several varieties of bees and wasps, robins, wrens, finches and sparrows, and a brazen stellar's jay, who sings his own  vocal "thank you" to me as I walk by. His dad's favorite roses, grown in southern California,  influenced photographer's love of all things floral. Now that autumn is approaching, the apples are ready for picking and their juices are attracting all kinds of bees and wasps.  Friends Laurie and The pretty prickly pear blossoms are prolific in Montana this year. John are watching the pups, Nick and Nora, while we're photographing whales and glaciers.  Recently, they picked apples with our mutual friends, Lana and Charles. Laurie reported this morning that it was lucky none of the six was stung, with the proliferation of insects and squished, oozing aples. We are excited at the prospects of "apple everything" -- Laurie's jelly is superb, Keller loves apple butter and I make a decent apple crisp and cobbler -- perhaps throwing in the last of the rhubarb which we've kept watered and producing all summer. Above, the day lilies of Montana are finishing their bloom, but wild flowers still abound, at left. Spring and autumn are my two favorite  "High Chaparral" seasons.  The air is crisp and clean, after most of the fires are subsided. The flowers' blooms are glorious as days shorten. Sunshine against the silhouette of the Beartooths is breathtaking homage to the floral bonanza. We may catch the last of the day lilies, russet against the gate.  The cactus will still be golden in the light on the trail above the house, and there may even be a few chrysanthemums beneath the yarrow. Seattle's signature Space Needle stands sentinel above Elliott Bay. COMING SOON:   Our travelers wend their way back to Big Sky Country after a glorious two weeks on the glaciers and whale trails of Alaska. They end their escapades with an Argosy boat trip from Puget Sound. Come with them through the locks into Lake Union, past the "Sleepless in Seattle" house boat and crab boats featured on TV's popular "Deadliest Catch." Read about their base, the stylish Pan Pacific Hotel, with its imposing view of the  harbor and Space Needle. Watch for Wednesday and Saturday posts and remember to explore, learn and live at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cruising's pleasures heightened by exilirating Alaskan adventure The wonders of Alaska unfold for Cookie, above, snug in her layers, enjoying the view from Carnival's Miracle. The captain's delicate maneuvering helps guests enjoy the wonders of the majestic Sawyer Glaciers, tiny islands, sea life and more.  Our appreciation and concern increased.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I STILL  feel a bit giddy. Call it an iceberg high. I've smoked my share of ganja and had a few nips too many, but I've never been as high as I was a few days ago, infused by nature's wonders and reveling in the thrill. My intoxicant? The stunning bluish icebergs of the Tracy Arm Fjord of Alaska. Glaciers in Tracy Arm are receding with each year, threatening wildlife. FROM OUR  veranda aboard the Carnival Miracle, we listened with astonishment to the ominous "white thunder" of immense spires of ice breaking from Sawyer Glacier. After they tumbled and crashed to the sea, we watched them melt leisurely into whimsical shapes -- horses, flowers, entire tableaux. From the earthquake-like cracks which startled us, the massive hunks of ice transformed to subtle, serene floating works of art. We witnessed the evolution of ice sculpture. And we had our environmental consciences tweaked. All in a few hours time. ENJOYING these magnificent sights and sounds would not have been possible without the luxury of a time-saving cruise. A cruise offers security, mobility, beautiful ports, no packing. They're affordable now, so consider cruising as a wonderfully safe and efficient way to move about the world, experiencing several ports in a week or two, enjoying their splendors without wasting precious time on packing and unpacking. ON THE Miracle, we entered Alaska's glacier area as children squealed with delight and adults gasped in awe. At one time, we counted 22 ice bergs of various sizes, with hundreds of cameras aimed at the spectacle. We'd layered up, as our savvy naturalist advised, with turtle-necks, sweaters, scarves, hats and jackets to transit the 30 miles of wonder in the world famous Tracy Arm Wilderness Area. WE WANDERED  from own stateroom to our private veranda, to the larger decks above and below, to change and enhance our views -- like sitting in various sections of a changing theater --  making certain Floating ice sculptures entrance cruise travelers to Alaska's fjord country.   we absorbed the entire  spectacle. In eight days of cruising, this unusual  "floating ice" orgy represented, for us, a tie for "most exhilarating day" -- the humpback whales were yet to come. While we would find an abundance of whales and sea lions, we were alarmed to see for ourselves the diminishing glaciers and ice fields. We renewed our memberships to conservation and preservation efforts, reminded of the fragility of the earth's balance and the importance of glaciers and water to sustaining marine life and preserving polar bears in particular. The sunsets aboard a ship at sea are hard to beat, here exiting Alaska's stunning Tracy Arm Wilderness Area .  A room with a view:  The brilliant aqua glacial melt. THE THRILL  of being close-up to a steep, snow-clad mountain rising up 7,000 feet from sea level, would satisfy most of us. Add to that the sound of cracking ice, the view of tons-heavy glaciers glinting in blue and pink light, splashing of tons of ice into the sea, then the melting "decorations," the ever-changing vistas as the ship made serpentine turns. ALL SPECTACULAR.   Ending with one of the prettiest sunsets we've seen. And we hadn't had a drop of chardonnay!                    * Captain Luca Lazzarino presents a surprised Cookie  with a "Miracle" cake created by the ship's chief chef: a  happy 100th cruise party with Keller and officers. COMING NEXT:  Our Alaska-Seattle adventure continues, with a segue to British Columbia. Join us for an exciting series of pieces: In Alaska we are aboard Carnival Miracle's, where captain Luca Lazzarino, honors Cookie on her 100th cruise. Cookie and Keller on the road to Alaska, ready for adventure. We find a friendly pod of seven humpback whales near Juneau, take a narrow-gauge rail trip to the White Pass summit, hunt for bears (with our cameras!) and end our revels in international style at the famous Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria, B.C., for a spot of tea, a sip of sherry and a spectacular view of the Parliament Buildings lit up at night. FINALLY ,  full circle back on the mainland, we savor Seattle for a cocktail sail on Far Niente yacht, take a discovery trip to the locks aboard Argosy's Good Time III, and delight in a beguilingly elegant hotel, Pan Pacific, with stunning service and views to match. The Space Needle shines in Seattle's sky, luring our travelers to linger. Remember to explore, learn and live. CHECK US OUT  Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Lions and tigers and bears, oh, my (all but the tigers and plenty more  in the Beartooths of Big Sky Country) Home, home on the range, where the deer and the antelope play. Where seldom is heard a discouraging word, and the sky is not cloudy all day. Healthy, happy Black Angus cattle enjoy green pasture north of Nye, Montana, in the beautiful Beartooth Mountains.   Ace fisherman Patrick Cosgriffe fishes the Stillwater. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WELL NOT  quite "all day" for the cloudy sky part.  At the moment it's raining. But the grass is green, the cattle are fat and sassy and I'm not complaining. I get more writing done when the gods are greening up the meadows. As I cook a pot of soup from garden vegetables, I listen to the rain and thunder. The Yorkies, Nick and Nora, snooze under my desk. There's no more spectacular time than summer in the Beartooths, particularly if nature has provided adequate moisture.  This year has been magnificent in the generosity department. The writer gives a High Chaparral tour, noting flora and fauna. SINCE EARL Y June when I returned to my native Stillwater County, Montana, it has rained at least 20 times -- sometimes a sprinkle, sometimes a deluge. To quote my late granddad Gus, "I'm happy as if I were in my right mind." Just the right amount of time inside and out.  If it were constantly sunny, I'd accomplish nothing indoors-- my writing deadlines would be ignored, I'd be eating frozen food instead of cooking soups and fresh trout, or eating mixed nuts instead of fixing salads seasoned with homegrown herbs. My San Diego friends have e-mailed: "Show us High Chaparral." Keller enjoys a hike on the Stillwater's West Fork with Nick and Nora. "What does your place look like?" "What do you do for fun there?" "Are you anywhere near Yellowstone Park?" As the crow flies, Yellowstone Park is 70 miles south of High Chap. Here, Cookie enjoys it with Rick and Jane .  The answers: "It's simply stunning. Plenty." And "Yes." "HIGH CHAP"  is high indeed -- near Red Lodge, Absarokee and Yellowstone Park, in the northern Rockies, elevation over one mile. Although there are deer and elk out the window, the park offers bears and The little town of Nye includes Carter's Camp, above. buffalo and a great destination for a night or two with out-of-town guests.While I'm here, I work my tail off: gardening, clearing, stacking wood, cooking, cleaning, reading, writing, walking and, believe it or not -- exercising at the Nye Fire Hall with a group of girlfriends.  We meet six days a week to do some form of workout from CDs we've all provided: Pilates, Jazzercise, cardio building, yoga. And while I see a couple plays and concerts a week during my California stint, culture is no stranger to me at my home on the range. I belong to a book club where we read everything from best sellers to memoir and biography.  We meet for gourmet luncheons at a historic home, The Big Yellow House in nearby Absarokee. I shop in this small town, too, and Milligan's IGA orders lamb chops for me. Cookie, left on alto sax, entertains with friends at Cowboy Bar. I PLAY  piano at an upscale restaurant, Montana Jack's, in the tiny town of Dean. It's named after its owner, Florida entrepreneur Jack Mowell, another part-time resident who rescued the eatery from malaise, hired terrific managers, waiters and chefs and tuned up the old upright piano. AT LEAST  a couple times a month, I play at Jack's: jazz and blues, show tunes and light classics.  We packed the place last Saturday with a medley from "Cabaret," some Cole Porter tunes and my rusty but appreciated Bach fugues and "Hungarian Rhapsody" by Franz Liszt, which I hadn't attempted for 30 years. (Standing Ovation!!! I'm practicing Chopin and Beethoven now.) Cookie, in braids, moves a couple river rocks . I ALSO play with a band my friend Art Daniels organizes -- usually on my alto saxophone. We entertain at the Cowboy Bar in Fishtail -- everything from New Orleans style blues to swing and country. My last gig with them included a Beatles medley, "Hello Dolly!" pieces and a rousing "Beer Barrel Polka" which brought out the dancers. Both of these musical outlets are good for me -- as is the entire summer at High Chaparral. My family and friends visit.  We have bonfires in the pit I dug myself and lined with sand and native rock. We eat well -- fresh trout, often caught by my brother Patrick, an expert fisherman, or my friends Marge and George who are also fine fishermen and (lucky for us) don't care for trout! Yellowstone National Park with bison galore is a couple hours away. I BOUGHT the place nearly 20 years ago, not long after losing my first husband, Bruce, in 1992. I hired Minneapolis born architect, Ted Wirth, to design an addition. I recruited my landscaper friend, Sam, to help me haul in four tons of earth to create a berm.  It flourishes, with more than 50 varieties of trees, shrubs and perennials.  My second husband, Billy, and I spent fertile time writing and painting here and when he died in 2005, it was, again, a place of solace, calming and strength for me. NOW, WITH Keller, High Chap is once more full of contented life -- and construction. Keller works on the artful fireplace project. We drove to a quarry near Bozeman and bought back to Nye nearly a ton of rock to finish the fireplace. We cleared a rocky slope, built fencing and planted an orchard which is a sanctuary for me and the Yorkies, with three varieties of apples and many perennials and rock gardens. Keller helped me install an irrigation system which brings delicious, plentiful, beautiful water from a well above the house. I plant at least four or five new trees a year -- firs and pine and this year some new aspen to complement the 50-plus surrounding and cooling the house.   Cookie and Yorkies fix dinner in High Chap's kitchen.    I've fed by hand deer who give birth in the protected corners of the property.  I have a mother white tail and twins now, and many rabbits, squirrels and even a fox, my own version of  "The Wind in the Willows." I've filled the home with Bill's paintings, family treasures and the pottery of my talented brothers, Rick and Patrick. The 1881 Log Room, the original cabin, is a repository of family  history and vintage photographs. Montana Jack's in Dean serves fine  fare and has live music (including Cookie on piano) on weekends. IT'S NOT all "Camelot" in the country. I've battled ants, vols, mice and the destructive pine bark beetle. I've chased bears down the driveway -- astonishing, but frightening. I've asked hunters to move on.  I've watched with wonder and fear as an ancient mountain lion circled the house after he pounced against a floor-to-ceiling window, admiring my cat, Nellie, sunning on an Oriental carpet. We've survived rattlesnakes (a serious bite to Nicky's face and a race to the vet with my nearly 90-year old neighbor, Grady, driving while I held Nick.) Misha and Dave hike to Sioux Charlie. Winter's are fierce -- I usually high tail it to San Diego. But it's hard on appliances as well as human skin and bones. I've replaced the dishwasher, windows and washing machine. I've repaired leaks and cracks. I need a new roof. I've chopped and hauled branches.  I've trimmed, weed-whacked, created  rock walls. All with Keller's help. I'VE GOT  plenty yet to do, and will until I go to that great pasture in the sky -- where I can watch birds, cook, play music and write -- way, way, down the road. Meanwhile, our neighborhood recently hosted Montana State University's touring "Shakespeare in the Parks" in a little town park in the nearby village of Fishtail.  The production was "Henry V" and after, there was live swing and blues music in the Cowboy Bar and at Jack's. Carter's Camp, in nearby Nye, hosts Friday night specials -- steak and shrimp, lasagna anyone? I hike the gorgeous canyon up to Sioux Charlie lake at least once a month during my Montana foray.  Friends and family marvel at the beauty of this part of the world, which I rank with Fishtail is one of several small towns near High Chaparral, Stillwater County. the Swiss Alps, Tuscany, Bali and other stunning spots I've visited in my trips around the world.  Last weekend, the water at the Stillwater's source was still ferocious and the rocks were crashing down, from the power and force of all the moisture. WHEN KELLER  is here, we try to avoid "all work and no play." But there are always chores on a rural property and although I have only 14 acres, there are fences to mend, rocks to clear, hedges to trim, trees to water, flowers to dead-head and grass to mow.  Boy is there grass to mow.  I have yet to yield to a sit-down mower since I love the exercise, but as I push the mower up the hillside, I fantasize about that -- or a magic wand. The fireplace at High Chap, before its completion. It's done! Meanwhile, there are birds, books, friends, deer in the yard, Yorkies to keep me company and, yes, a few clouds.  But the fireplace is finished and gorgeous! So no discouraging words. At least not from this reporter. COMING UP: It's Cookie's birthday! See how she celebrates and what she's thankful for -- friends, family, Yorkies, Keller! Future blogs look at the evolution of the Alberta Bair Theater from the old 1931 Fox, the annual Art and Wine Festival in Fishtail, and a look at how the late Rudolph Valentino affected Cookie's life. Check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at ww w.whereiscookie.com

The family run Crazy Mountain Inn makes ends meet over the rainbow in the small Montana town of Martinsdale. Guest house, cafe in the middle of nowhereoffer guests opportunity to go back in time  Scenery surrounding Crazy Mountain Inn is serene and green. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER GLISTENING  in the rain, the Crazy Mountain Inn looks like a setting from an Agatha Christie novel. She could be perched high upon a cliff, or set back deep in the woods. But she's situated a couple miles off Highway 12 in Martinsdale, about 30 miles from Harlowton, Montana, under the majestic shadow of the Crazy Mountains. Family style cooking and casual atmosphere attract the Cosgriffe clan. The rooms are basic, the bathroom is down the hall, and "air conditioning" comes when you open your window or plug in a fan. But the rooms are comfy, the scenery is spectacular and the meals are satisfying and bountiful, with desserts that attract people from miles around. Crazy Mountain Inn is of another era, a throwback to the 1950s, the days of "Father Knows Best" and "Leave It To Beaver." You expect someone to offer you a plate of homemade cookies, or a piece of warm sour cream lemon-cream pie. And she does! Connor, at right, enjoys a family supper at Crazy Mountain Inn. PROPRIETOR  Cheryl Marchi operates the 1906 building, with a staff of family and a couple other workers. Her husband Peter is involved in ranching and water projects in the valley, so Cheryl is the "hands on" part of the ownership. She's lived and worked in several other states, including Georgia, where she spent part of her youth, and says Martinsdale has been a good, safe place to raise their family. The rustic inn's setting includes paintings, antlers and hard wood floors. She admits to having plenty of "deferred maintenance" issues with the inn -- paint is chipping, framing around the windows and doors needs shoring up and there are leaks and squeaks, drafts and other problems.  Nothing that a good five- or six-figure overhaul wouldn't fix! But for now, Cheryl says, the inn struggles to make ends meet in a town of less than 100 people. Weekend visitors going to the nearby lake or vacationers from out-of-state make up the clientele, which also includes hunters in the autumn. If you're looking for a five-star hotel, this is not the place.  It does not pretend to be. Instead, it is a folksy, family-friendly ranch style inn with good, solid home cooking in the restaurant, friendly folks to welcome you with no requirement of a deposit! The inn's large downstairs bathroom. The rooms are upstairs and are unremarkable -- basic beds, a chair and extra blanket if you like. There is no elevator and our nearly 84-year old cousin, Sally, braved the stairway with her cane and uttered not a single complaint. The Crazy Mountain Inn's upstairs hallway.   The three  small dining rooms   are adorned with antlers and hides, throw pillows and oak and pine furniture, all comfortable and welcoming.There's a small, private room if you want to celebrate alone and have your meal separate from others. IF YOU'RE  accustomed to having your own bathroom in a hostelry, be warned.  You'll share, here. (One bath is located upstairs and one downstairs. Wait your turn for the toilet or shower.) The charm is in the friendly atmosphere and good old-fashioned service and home cooking. Area folks come to the Crazy Mountain Inn cafe from miles around -- there aren't many options, it's true. My late uncle, Harry Cosgriffe, loved to drive with his wife Peg from their nearby ranch in Two Dot for a supper treat, or Sunday breakfast out. The cafe counter doubles as the hotel's check-in station. So the place is visited by nearby ranching families, and people in Harlowton (30 miles away) and in our case, relatives from Georgia, California, Virginia and Massachusetts, plus our Montana contingent from Nye and Billings. The suppers include steak, burgers and fish and chips, and the fabled, much loved pies. THE BEAUTY  and serenity of the area speaks for itself, its own "course" on the menu while you're dining and gazing at nature's best. Breakfasts include traditional bacon, egg, toast and hash browns, along with oatmeal with walnuts and raisins, brown sugar and thick cream. The nearby lake is an attraction, along with the Bair Museum, featured in the recent, July 31 post of "whereiscookie". CRAZY  Mountain serves some of the best food in Montana. Esquire magazine called it "home of the world's best chicken fried steak." Montana Magazine found Crazy Mountain Inn's pie best in Montana. During our weekend there, the restaurant hosted hungry hiking couples, hunters arranging their fall stays and families looking for an evening without cooking themselves. Homemade soups include a hearty vegetable, the steaks are done to order -- medium rare for us. Rick and Jane and their grandkids, Connor and Elliana, meet labpups. The inn is rustic and casual -- our family was invited out back to meet a litter of  Labrador pups. It's a laid back, kid friendly kind of place. BUT OH , my, the pies.....my Atlanta sis brought a lemon cream one to cousins and they raved, too!  The pie is the "frosting on the cake" after a day hiking or absorbing the art and antiques at the nearby Bair Museum. Besides breakfasts and dinners, other meals can be arranged. Rooms run about $45 to $62 and can accommodate up to four persons. Summer hours are Thursdays through Sundays, until 7:30 p.m. The inn and cafe take checks and cash only and will close a couple months after hunting season.  COMING UP : A look at a typical weekend high in the northern Rockies of south-central Montana, where the deer and the antelope play. Opening night, 1987, of the "new" ABT! And we explore the evolution of the 1931 Fox Theater in Billings to the 1987 opening of the renovated Alberta Bair Theater, the  region's largest performing arts showcase. Plus a study of one woman's attempt to integrate death and her beloved departed into a healthy, full and forward-looking life. Remember to explore, learn and live. And visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com