Search Results

Normally Cookie's playing piano at Montana Jack's this time of year, but no more  playing until the sling's off and muscles repaired. Fixing the hair -- a two-handed job -- requires help from Keller now. Wounded warrior arms herself for battle with the fates; she offers this appreciation for those whose loss is permanent Sailing is only a dream, with the chance of bumping the sling. Dancing isn't possible for now, with a sling on a sprained arm. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ANYONE WHO  has lost a limb to disease, injury or accident may find this confessional trite and cliched. I apologize to all of you, if this intended tribute sounds naive or self-pitying. But after 11 days with my left arm in a sling -- result of a painful and severe sprain -- I have utter respect for all who have lost an arm or leg and have no hope of recov. I will never view an amputee or quadriplegic, or anyone whose  limb has been rendered permanently useless in the same clueless light. My impediment is, to borrow from "Monty Python," a mere flesh wound.f Walking Nick and Nora was fun.  Now it's difficult and painful with only one arm. THIS ESSAY   is about arms, not legs, except as I involved them to make up for the temporarily lost limb. I actually used the pruners yesterday with my "good" right arm, and my left leg and knee, even involving my toes. I'm sure a wounded warrior or car accident survivor could write a parallel for legs. ALMOST EVERYTHING  we do in the course of a day -- from our mundane toiletries and ablutions to cooking, gardening, walking, reading, cleaning, cuddling -- requires both arms fully functioning. I started a list of the tasks I have had difficulty performing -- routine daily chores, and rituals particular to my life. With only one arm, everything is more complicated. In morning, I struggle with: * BRUSHING  my teeth.  No longer is one hand on the brush and the other on the toothpaste. I can put not even the slightest pressure on a tube. There are one-handed piano players, but a saxophone really requires both arms. Try holding a baby with one arm. * Putting on my bra. That's a two-hander! Keller to the rescue, although he claims he is far more adept at removing bras! * Taking a decent shower, washing hair. * Putting on a pair of earrings, zipping my pants. fixing my hair. * Stirring oatmeal, holding the breakfast toast to butter it. Unscrewing a new jar of jam. * Cutting a peach. * Opening a can of dog food. * Filling the bird feeders. Using the weed whacker. No dice. Maneuvering the weed whacker was easy earlier in summer. It's hard now.  * Watering the flowers and planting petunias -- it's hard to pull apart the roots of six-pack plants without both hands. I used my good arm and my teeth! (Sorry, dear dentist.) THAT'S JUST  to get me to mid-day. Afternoon chores and writing have been radically altered. With one arm, I have trouble with: * Typing -- I was 160 words a minute with no mistakes. Now I'm hunting and pecking with my right hand like my old time newspaper editors. * Threading a needle to do some mending. I finally put the needle between my toes to steady it. Gambling is possible with a single hand, but easier with two! * Collapsing a step ladder that was in my way.  I held it in place with my hip to fold it up. * Turning the pages of a book or magazine. * Changing a light bulb. * Opening a bottle of wine. (Corkscrew flipped out of my good hand and broke a glass.) Packing the trunk for an adventure used to be a pleasure! Now, cumbersome.  * Driving a car, riding a bike, pushing a wheel barrow, playing piano, tuning up my saxophone, folding laundry. Walking the Yorkies. * Mixing, baking and serving cookies. * Hoisting a sail as Cap'n Keller gives orders. * CHANGING  the hoses and screwing in the sprinkler, holding a baby or changing her diaper -- difficult if not impossible at this early stage of my "handicap." *  With my Irish up, I determined to hang a picture and finally did it, pounding in the hook, then straightening the small painting with my nose and shoulder. I've improvised to my best ability, as all handicapped people learn to do.  Again, humble kudos. TO EVERY  brave soul who has lost the use of a limb, then struggled to regain a "normal life," my fondest salute and admiration. In no way do I compare myself to you.  But next  time I see you crossing an intersection, maneuvering through a grocery store, or queuing up for a movie, I will ask if I can be helpful or provide even small service. Hats off to all the wounded, injured, recovering.  My lesson is one of thanks that my arm is mending.  I am richer for these weeks of repair and reflection.  My attitude is one of gratitude. Lisbon's ode to the explorers is a huge marble sculpture paying tribute to Portugal's discoveries.  It is located in the attractive Belem area. COMING SOON:  Let us lead you to the wonders of Lisbon, a city we love and think you will, too. Nautical lore and a beautiful port, fashion, food, music, museums and friendly people are part of the appeal.  Come to Portugal with us and remember to keep your sense of fun as you explore, learn and live. We post Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

BEARS COME OVER THE MOUNTAIN (AND ALMOST INTO THE KITCHEN) WHILE CRITTER, BEAUTY  ABOUND  This handsome fellow came across the yard at High Chaparral north of Nye, then scooted across the meadow. This bear has visited three years in a row.  He has a distinctive ear marking. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE BEAR  came again last night.  I was tidying up the kitchen, enjoying the hummingbird tweets and twitters, when he brushed against the kitchen window.  He pushed on the screen, growled, and I growled back. Keller prowls the mountains in all seasons for photos. Then with trembling hands (and one arm in a sling) I closed the glass windows and watched him circle the house, trying each window, trying every opening for a chance to come inside. Sunflowers are favorites of the birdies and of Cookie, here at High Chaparral. A friend down the road here in the rural West Fork of the Stillwater River kept a "spill-over" freezer on her closed-in porch for years.  One day she came home and found a bear eating ice cream and cookies.  He'd pawed open the top-fill freezer and helped himself to dessert for 12. I KNEW  why the bear came calling. The night before, we'd left the garage door open -- accidentally of course -- and he sensibly came in, lured no doubt by the fragrant smells of barbecue on our discarded paper plates. He tore open the plastic garbage bag, ate a few fragments of paper, then ripped into 40 pounds of grain-free Natural Balance dog food -- the most expensive money can buy. (Nothing's too good for the Yorkies -- or their guests!) BECAUSE I  was the only human in the house, I didn't want to risk the bear's possible intrusion. "He wouldn't have actually come in the house," my partner chastised later. "Oh, yeah?" Here in the hinterlands, we have lots of bear stories.  Bears in the kitchen, bears in the bedroom, bears in the basement, bears on the roof. Lions and tigers and, yes, bears! Someone's been sleeping in my bed.... THIS MAMA  bear and her yearling feasted, then crept up on the earthen wine cellar and onto the roof, scampering up to our artesian well then into the mountain brush to wherever bears go. Ranches offer a welcome with this traditional Montana arch. We've seen lots of other wonderful critters and gorgeous landscapes during our Beartooth times here at High Chaparral.  Family and friends from Ireland and Israel, Norway, California, Georgia, New York and Oregon, treasure their "critter sightings" and cherish the flora and gorgeous scenery. Come enjoy the bounty under the Big Sky, where the deer and the antelope play. Polish up your whistling or singing style, or hum along to this old family favorite, a beloved cowboy and campfire song.    HOME ON THE RANGE Cookie, Nick and Nora play where the skies are not cloudy. Oh give me a home where the buffalo roam, where the deer and the antelope play, Where seldom is heard a discouraging word, And the skies are not cloudy all day. (Chorus after each verse:) Home, home on the range, Where the deer and the antelope play, Where seldom is heard a discouraging word, And the skies are not cloudy all day. Where the air is so pure, and the zephyrs so free, The breezes so balmy and light, That I would not exchange my home on the range, For all of the cities so bright. Twilight and the evening skies are a big attraction in Big Sky country. How often at night when the heavens are bright, With the light from the glittering stars, Have I stood there amazed and asked as I gazed, If their glory exceeds that of ours. Oh, I love these wild flowers in this dear land of ours, The curlew I love to hear cry, And I love the white rocks and the antelope flocks, That graze on the mountain slopes high. Oh give me a land where the bright diamond sand, Flows leisurely down in the stream; Where the graceful white swan goes gliding along, Like a maid in a heavenly dream. Then I would not exchange my home on the range, Where the deer and the antelope play; Where seldom is heard a discouraging word, And the skies are not cloudy all day. Cookie's nightclub gigs in Montana and California are temporarily on hold as her left arm and hand heal. COMING UP:   While our writer hopes to regain use of her  badly damaged left arm and hand, she reflects on the tens of thousands of people who are permanently disabled. Brave amputees and determined quadriplegics have Cookie's earnest respect as she struggles -- albeit only temporarily -- with the daily challenges such an injury provides. A tribute to those whose limb function has been altered by illness or injury, and who improvise and learn to lead normal lives. Cookie is recording the hundreds of things she does with her limbs, and is giving thanks! She hopes in time to be typing again with both hands, but realizes thousands type with a single limb -- or their feet or mouths. This accident has opened her heart and mind..... a good thing. Then she and Keller share photos from recent trips to Lisbon, and the California coast where they sampled oceanfront hotels, and more.  The couple's credo is: have fun, be adventurous, and remember to explore, learn and live.  Check them out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

PHOTO HOMAGE SPARES THE TYPING, SHARES KELLER'S LOVE OF BIRDS The Absaroka Range is home to many stunning birds, including eagles and hawks. Several varieties of hummingbirds frolic in Montana, above, San Diego, left.   BRUCE KELLER PHOTOS COOKIE MEYERS POEM INJURY to a writer's left arm makes typing tough, so we depart for a few days from our usual commentary, focusing more on photos. Today's piece features Cookie's poem and a Keller photo essay reflecting his love of birds, from San Diego and southern California to the wilds of south-central Montana.  Cookie's tumble was while filling bird feeders, a fact for which she in no way blames her feathered friends.  Please enjoy. These happy ducks were photographed in southern California. This fella is looking for supper at Oceanside Harbor, Calif. Felled by a sprain on a warm July night,our writer's one handed, a horrible plightfor one driven by nature, and music and words.So our Cookie's decided to share with you birds -- from the photos dear Keller has taken on trips,observing the wonders of flight, nests and flips.(Did we mention that Cookie has singed her hair, too?Now she's burned on the top, with an arm black and blue!)Scorched her mop burning weeds: bad ones that rankle.  An earlier fall meant she sprained her left ankle. Now these accidents numbering one, two and three, should mean summer's remainder is incident free.Meanwhile, typing's a challenge with only one arm, so we serve up these photos while Cooks avoids harm.   Songbirds serenade in both our states.  this one chirps, dips and chows down at High Chaparral, Montana.                                                               Bighorn sheep court near Stillwater Mine above Nye, Montana. COMING SOON:  Now that we've shared a few of our splendid Montana and California birds, we will offer a few critters spotted in or near our yard in Stillwater County.  We try to share our love of nature and our sense of adventure and fun.  Posts are Wednesdays and weekends.  Remember to enjoy, learn and live! Please spread the word about: www.whereiscookie.com

Approaching Crete at dusk, one sees hills of olive trees, and beautiful caves and beaches, with little hint of the heavy casualties during the infamous Battle for Crete, eventually a German victory in 1941. Cookie pays respect to the fallen at Souda Bay War Cemetery. THOUSANDS DIED  FOR FREEDOM  ON THIS IDYLLIC  MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ON THIS   holiday Monday, honoring the fallen who died for peace, freedom and a better world, we travel to the Souda Bay War Cemetery in the Greek Isles. As one enters the cemetery, a caretaker greets the car or hiker. Beautiful inlaid stone crosses accent the solemn tone. True, it is possible to visit Crete without including this moving  memorial. The island offers glamorous resorts and beaches. THE CAPITAL city Heraklion, is one of the Mediterranean's most fascinating and vibrant cities, replete with unusual museums, delightful gardens and eateries. But the cemetery is important. Strolling past geraniums red as Christmas berries, it's hard to imagine the violence, bloodshed and death that marked ferocious World War II battles for this key harbor.   PAST SMALL,  neat farmhouses, sunning chickens and sleeping dogs, one comes quietly to Souda Bay and the memorial. Elegant stone walking paths flank rows and rows of crosses and white marble grave markers.  What stories the ghosts could tell, of 1940 when Italy invaded mainland Greece and Crete's excellent harbors became a contentious battleground.  The Germans wanted the strategic point, critical to their war effort.   ALLIED BOMBERS  were within range. After much carnage, dominance of the Royal Navy in the Mediterranean ended in mid-1941 when the Germans launched a massive airborne attack. Days of desperate and heroic fighting followed, but Allied troops were forced to evacuate.  Thousands were taken prisoner or died. Crete's key location made it a point of contention in WWII. NOW,  REMAINS  of the fallen sit sentinel at the northwest corner of Crete's Souda Bay. The meticulously groomed cemetery holds the graves of hundreds, mostly Commonwealth, who struggled valiantly to defend Crete against the German invasion in May and June of 1941. During two months of horrible battle, thousands perished.  More than 1,500 WWII servicemen are commemorated in the cemetery -- along with 19 World War I soldiers and some from other conflicts.   CRETE's FAME  goes back centuries before this memorial.  The island was central to the sophisticated Minoan Civilization, dating to 2700 B.C., and regarded as the earliest recorded civilization in Europe. This imposing, largest Greek isle is also one of the largest in the Mediterranean, covering 8.303 kilometers and spanning 260 km, east to west. A marker honors a fallen soldier, a doctor, above; below, one of several historic churches remaining in Crete. Its lovely, cave-lined coastline gives way to varied landscape, with many mountains. In the U.S., our Memorial Day was born of the ashes of the Civil War. Originally called Decoration Day, it was officially proclaimed after the war that tore our country apart, on May 5, 1868. General John Alexander Logan, commander of the Grand Army of the Republic, with veterans of all military branches observed the day later that month, on May 30, 1868. NEW YORK  officially recognized the holiday in 1873 and by 1890 all the northern states joined. It took the losses of World War I for the southern states to recognize the day.  From then on, the holiday was expanded to honor the dead of all wars and U.S. military actions. Luxury hotel accommodations are available on Crete, here a Four Seasons beach. FOR NEARLY a century, people called the holiday "Decoration Day" but it was not until 1967 that President Lyndon Banes Johnson signed legislation officially renaming the holiday "Memorial Day." That atrocities and barbarism scarred this idyllic place called Crete seems incredible and unfitting. Downey and Northridge, Calif., join San Diego in celebrating Greek heritage during the next two weeks. But the memorial's countless markers tell the tragic tale. HAPPILY,  many Greek communities across the U.S. celebrate their heritage in the days before and after our U.S. Memorial Day. Moussaka, souvlaki, and gyros will soon be served in Downey, Calif., and other Los Angeles area towns. The Valley Greek Festival in Northridge, goes on the boards daily during Memorial Day weekend, 1-9 p.m. COMING: Popular Ft. Lauderdale water taxis offer  leisurely cruising along the city's world famous waterways with commentary on celebrity homes. THE 30th annual Downey Greek Festival is June 7-8, with Greek fare and vendors showing Greek music, crafts and more.  Here in San Diego,  S t. Spyridon Greek Orthodox Church stages its annual Greek Festival, June 13-15 with parking behind the San Diego Unified School District offices near Park Blvd. and El Cajon Blvd. All share heritage, culture, music, traditions, customs and food. Sounds like "opa" time to me. COMING UP : Fort Lauderdale and its famous water taxis offer romance, comfort, boats with a view, homes of the rich and famous, and a history lesson to boot. Find it soon at  www.whereiscookie.com   Ephesus intrigues with its ancient buildings, walkways and artwork. Then off to ancient Ephesus where the Bible's Paul preached and the mother of Jesus lived out her life. We offer a modern approach to travel and the arts as we zip through time and explore the wonders of the centuries. Our adventure tips are laced with a sense of fun with "insider" pointers. Take time to explore, learn and live. Please visit us Wednesdays, weekends and as the muse invites, at: www.whereiscookie.com

GET A BIRD'S EYE GLIMPSE OF THE HOMES AND LIFESTYLE OF THE FILTHY RICH Fort Lauderdale's famous Water Taxi takes tourists and locals on the city's famous waterways, with ease and beauty.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER DECADES AGO  -- before the white man set foot here --  water was the only way to get around in what is now Fort Lauderdale. It's still the most relaxing, prettiest and most interesting way to see the sights. One sees the beautiful back yards of the mansions from the canals. If you love star gossip and wouldn't shy from a glimpse of the rich and famous, Fort Lauderdale's your place. NFL stars, singers, musicians, actors, writers and, yes, porn stars invested in Fort Lauderdale. TO YOUR LEFT  ladies and gentlemen:  that's where Sonny and Cher lived for years. Down the way, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz loved their little white home on the corner. Andy Griffith lived nearby.  He loved to come out in his own boat. ("Little" in Lauderdale may mean 5,000 square feet, so keep that in mind.) Over there -- that's the palatial estate where many "Magnum P.I." episodes were shot. There's the home of an oil sheik from Saudi Arabia.  He bought his daughter a little place down the canal for a wedding gift last fall. WE'VE BEEN  to Fort Lauderdale many times, always on the prowl for new adventures. Fort Lauderdale at night is aglow with street and water traffic. The town has exciting nightlife, beautiful waterfront dining, and gorgeous shops on fashionable Las Olas Boulevard, the Rodeo Drive of southern Florida. But the town's Intracoastal Waterway system makes its canals a unique and beautiful way to see the sights. You'll learn the city's history from the draw bridges of the historic Esplanade area, to the "spring break" beaches, resort areas, new homes and stately old ones. WHETHER YOU want history, scenery, eateries or a blend, Fort Lauderdale's Water Taxi service will deliver.  Its main route travels in two directions, upbound and downbound. Is this croc for real?  See for yourself on Fort Lauderdale's water taxi. DOWNBOUND  takes you down to the New River, and the downtown Fort Lauderdale and the trendy yet historic Las Olas area. Upbound takes you “up” north, towards the Galleria Mall and Shooters Restaurant. The Hollywood Route, heads south to Hollywood Beach, the young crowd and beach life. It's a thrill to move via water taxi under one of the several Fort Lauderdale bridges. WE'VE HOPPED  on and off many times and have always had entertaining, helpful crew. They know their stuff, like to chat about the locals and their mansions, and help you get where you need to go. In fact, the crew will happily help you plan your time in Fort Lauderdale, as you cruise past the town's sites. They know the history, the mansions, the stars, the sales prices and new and former owners of the sleek mega yachts. They share tips on the hottest restaurants, bars and attractions steps from water taxi stops. They offer discounts at the eateries and attractions for water taxi travelers. THE FORT  Lauderdale Water Taxi runs year-round, closing only Christmas Day. During the huge upcoming Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, service will be limited because the waterways are the main boat show venues. Fort Lauderdale's water life is at the heart of the city.   THE WATER  taxis glide by the town's exciting nightlife, outdoor eateries, the famous shops of Las Olas Boulevard, beautiful beaches, yacht clubs and majestic cruise ships traveling in and out of Port Everglades. Nothing worldwide compares to Fort Lauderdale's Intracoastal Waterway. Its lovely canals are so unique and beautiful, they have earned Fort Lauderdale the moniker “Venice of America.” Water Taxi is the best way to see them! Cookie waits in the wind for a water taxi to take her to dinner. Violinist Yale Strom got a standing ovation at last year's klezmer summit! THE WATER Taxi can also take you to Hollywood! Hop on in Fort Lauderdale at Stop 5 -- The Hilton Marina/Convention Center -- and hop off in the heart of Hollywood Beach, steps from fabulous dockside eateries. The Hollywood trip allows visitors to transfer in Fort Lauderdale. And when much of the world is snow-covered, the Hollywood Water Taxi is prepared for any weather.  It runs December through April and features a cabin with both air conditioning and heat, a full bar, snacks and restrooms. NEXT UP : Highlights from the annual Lipinsky Jewish Arts Festival, which again features the talents of Yale Strom and other gifted musicians.  Saturday's post shares highlights and concert times on the Lyceum stage in downtown San Diego. Flamingos abound in their brilliant plumage, and we visit them next. ON TAP: Fort Lauderdale's wildlife and flowers are world famous. Bonnet House beckons, with gorgeous gardens and the inspiration for the estate's name, the bonnet lily. In mid-Ft. Lauderdale sits a verdant acreage and home, show piece of a history-minded, arts loving family who gave it to Florida. Lauderdale has the bustle and hustle of a beach town, but with playful flamingos, crocodiles and a wildlife refuge. How does nature survive and thrive among high rises, condos and mega-mansions. The welcoming Hyatt Pier 66 puts us in the center of the action.  We're about adventure tips with a sense of fun so take time to explore, learn and live. Visit us Wednesdays, weekends and as the muse invites, at  www.whereiscookie.com

Yale Strom's violin heats up the Lyceum Monday at the lively Klezmer Summit. Kosher treats await at the Lyceum with world class music, theater, tributes to Irving Berlin and Pete Seeger   Torchy ballads will be served up again by  talented klezmer diva Elizabeth Schwartz. Violinist Asi Matathias and pianist Victor Stanislavsky performed Thursday. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THERE'S NO BUSINESS  like show business, and there's no Jewish arts festival west of Tel Aviv with as much energy and talent as the Lipinsky Family San Diego Jewish Arts Festival. Don't miss it, folks. It's world class and it's right here in River City! The impressive 21st annual festival  kicked off to raves and appreciative audiences and continues through June 18 in San Diego's lively downtown and North County. Cookie and Keller are among legions of  appreciative fans as the Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival continues.  THURSDAY'S  well tuned concert featured Israeli violinist Asi Matathias and pianist Victor Stanislavsky who presented a nearly flawless 90-minutes of Saint-Saens, Brahms and other well chosen treats. With maturity and precision, these young virtuosi had the all-ages audience attentive and wanting more.   Proceeds benefit the America-Israel Cultural Foundation; the audience showed its support of this endeavor with generous applause and "bravos." AMONG MYRIAD  delights as the festival continues is a world-premiere work about a beloved American composer-lyricist, Israel Isidor Baline, born in Belarus in 1888. (You may know him better as Irving Berlin, the musical genius who gave us "God Bless America," "White Christmas," the score of "Annie Get Your Gun" and countless other treasures.) Irving Berlin, beloved by Americans, is honored in song by Hershey Felder.  An original piece about Berlin's music and life headlines the annual Lipinsky sponsored Jewish Festival, on tap through June 18 in downtown and North County. This year's festival is again curated, organized and directed by devoted San Diego Rep associate artistic director Todd Salovey, whose enthusiastic welcomes are festival tradition. Hershey Felder presents Berlin tribute. The Lyceum, home of San Diego Repertory Theatre, awaits with delights.  HE PREVIEWED  an upcoming fest highlight, a nearly sold out performance of  "Hershey Felder as Irving Berlin."  The piece spotlights the legendary American composer and Jewish cultural hero who rocketed to fame with "Alexander's Ragtime Band," "There's No Business Like Show Business," "Oh, How I Hate To Get Up in the Morning," and dozens of other beloved hits. Felder's highly anticipated Berlin show is Sunday, at 7:30 p.m. June 1, on the Rep's Lyceum Stage. Tickets are $55 or $118 for a special reception. FELDER,  a talented pianist, composer, actor and writer, is known around town; his "Composers Sonata" has been staged at the Old Globe Theatre and his "The Pianist of Willesden Lane," is on the Lyceum marquee enticing subscribers to the Rep's next season. Yale Strom, at right, and an arsenal of red hot talent ,brought down the house at the 2013 San Diego Jewish Arts Festival.  DON'T MISS the 13th annual Klezmer Summit Monday, June 2. "My Yidishe Mambo" showcases gifted musicians Yale Strom and Gilbert Castellanos and last year's fest had people practically dancing in the aisles with its unique Jewish-Latin hybrid sound. Hot Pstromi includes Jeff Pekarek (bass), Lou Fanucchi (accordion), Fred Benedetti (guitar), Duncan Moore (percussion), Elizabeth Schwartz (vocals) and Strom (violin), joining Castellanos (trumpet), Irving Flores (piano) and Gene Perry (Afro-Cuban percussion).
 The legendary Pete Seeger will be honored in a special tribute. ANOTHER FEST  highlight is a tribute to the late folk singer and activist Pete Seeger, Monday, June 9 at 7:30 p.m. Seeger's long career inspired the popular Rep show, "A Hammer, a Bell and a Song to Sing." The Lyceum's Seeger tribute includes a staged reading of Salovey’s musical “Pete Seeger Sings Out,” with actor-musicians Dave Crossland, Jim Mooney and Vaughn Armstrong.
 A second performance is at 7:30 p.m. June 10 at North Coast Repertory Theatre in Solana Beach. For the Seeger NCRT show, go to www.northcoastrep.org  or call (858) 481-1055. The Jewish Festival also includes a "Women of Valor"  reading honoring San Diego's accomplished Jewish women June 18, in the Encinitas Library, 7 p.m. And there are several free events. For details or tickets visit www.sdrep.org or call 619 544-1000. Fisherman Larry Giles in search of the big one (catch and release, of course) off the Florida coast. COMING UP : From klezmer and other Yiddish treats to gators, a wildlife preserve, fishing, flowers and girl watching in Florida. We're about arts, adventure and exploration, always with a sense of fun. Explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

AMID CITY LIFE, BUILDINGS AND BUSTLE, FLORIDA'S UNIQUE WILDLIFE THRIVES IN BIRD PARKS, EVERGLADES AND HISTORIC HOUSE Flamingos frolic and show their lovely pastel coral shades during a recent visit to Fort Lauderdale. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Flamingos share the spotlight with this peacock at Flamingo Park.  THREE THOUSAND  years ago, the Tequesta Indians fished the winding intracoastal waterways of Fort Lauderdale, probably enjoying the beauty of the waterlilies and living off the bounty of the agricultural land the waters nourished. Perhaps they glided on their kayaks past flamingos and peacocks. Maybe they harvested or tangled with a fresh-water crocodile or two! They could have enjoyed the friendly presence of the manatee, who still gives birth in the waters that are now part of Fort Lauderdale. Hyatt Pier 66 is a landmark in Fort Lauderdale, with easy water access. OUR BASE  for a four-day sight seeing extravaganza was the lovely Hyatt Regency Pier 66,   which gives new meaning to "room with a view."  This elegant hotel in Fort Lauderdale is world renowned for dazzling views, resort-style amenities, enticing dining venues and on-site activities. We also love it because it's on the Water Taxi route we've written about.  It offers its own oasis, set amid 22 acres of gorgeous landscaping flanked with dozens of royal palms and a huge, Disneyland-style chess set. The Flamingo Sanctuary provides sanctuary for  Yosh and Shula Wickman, left, Cookie and Keller, right. THE HYATT'S WORLD -class marina provides the ideal getaway in the yachting capital of the world and we sampled several of its five restaurants. We were just a quick cab ride to Flamingo Gardens Botanical Collection and Everglades Wildlife Sanctuary, where we spent a relaxing day with friends who'd flown from Israel the week before. The lovely Botanical Gardens are a showcase for over 3,000 species of rare and exotic, tropical, subtropical and native plants. The Arboretum contains some of the largest trees in the state of Florida. Hyatt Pier 66 offers dining, rooms with gorgeous views. Florida's moist, warm climate provides an abundance of  lovely flowers. WE ENJOYED a ride in a small open-air trolley that took us around the gardens, under imposing banyan trees and through carefully tended groupings of various Florida flowers. Then it was time for the wildlife lecture and show, featuring an on-site naturalist who introduced us to several critters in stages of rehabilitation.  This was a wonderful half hour, enjoyed by families whose children were attentive as the owl, raccoon, snake and others were shown and discussed to their wonderment. THE 60-ACRE  Flamingo Gardens is a showcase for over 3,000 species of rare and exotic, tropical, subtropical, and native plants. The Arboretum through which we drove boasts some of the largest trees in the state of Florida. The Everglades Wildlife Sanctuary within the expanse gives residence to permanently injured and non-releasable birds and animals, and is home to the largest collection of Florida native wildlife- including alligators, bear, bobcats, eagles, otters, panthers, peacocks and flamingos. The crocodile, directly above,  and the alligator, above him,  co-exist in southern Florida. Birds are part of the wonderful landscape at the Flamingo Gardens.    THE EVERGLADES Wildlife Sanctuary gives residence to permanently injured and non-releasable birds and animals, and is home to the largest collection of Florida native wildlife- including alligators, bear, bobcats, eagles, otters, panthers, peacocks and flamingos. You will also want to dip over to the Florida Everglades with its complex eco-system. Its myriad rivers, canals and lakes range from the Florida panhandle to South Florida, and several tours from Fort Lauderdale will take you there. THE UNUSUAL  merging of salt and freshwater is the only location in America where both alligators and crocodiles live together!    You can take an airboat trip in the Everglades, and see an alligator wrestling demonstration -- free with your airboat ticket. Big husky fellas looking like extras in "Deliverance" wrestle down the gators, with techniques they supposedly learned from the Seminole Indians. Artist Frederic Clay Bartlett designed  the unique home. UP NEXT:   We take you to the extraordinary artistic wonders of Fort Lauderdale's Bonnet House, with its gorgeous gardens and art galleries.  The 1920 home and acreage sit in the middle of  Fort Lauderdale, a soothing surprise much like a country estate, right in the middle of a bustling city, and nestled below a skyline of condos and mansions.  We're all about exploration, adventure and learning, always with a sense of fun. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

This booby has his eye on the seas below, looking for a meal.  He also eyes the female booby, vying for her graces. This booby is at least as interesting as the female breast to many.   Boobies often fly in pairs, or quartets, forming little groups as they hunt. We watched these two for hours off the coast of Costa Rica. A SALUTE TO THE FUN-LOVING BOOBY:DANCER, FLYER, FISHERMAN, FAST DIVER, LOYAL FRIEND OF CRUISERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE WATCHED them for hours. No, not female-breast boobies, as a joke-cracking neighbors surmised at my e-mail proclamation: "You won't believe the boobies." His retort:  "When you mentioned boobies, I got all excited.  Then I realized you were talking about birds." But what birds.  Maybe my friend wasn't so far afield with his suggestive wisecrack because, Chuck,  boobies are sexy! They dance, they prance, they snuggle and nuzzle.  They do it all without snapping their garters, donning sleazy corsets or fancy lingerie.  They don't send roses or ply their girlfriend with expensive liquor. THEY HAVE  elaborate courtships, mate for life and some believe they enjoy sex. My kind of birds. They also soar over the seas, darting, diving, riding the drafts of cruise ships such as ours, the Legend of the Seas, a dowager of the fleet of Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines. The blue footed booby is light on his feet, and those famous feet move to attract a mate. Boobies were our faithful escorts through much of our journey down the western coast of Mexico and into Central and South America. This daring seabird is comfortable and abundant in many of the world's tropical waters. The perfect symmetry and grace of the booby may have inspired early day flyers, including the Wright Brothers. The brown booby, our friends in this story, is cousin to the more famous blue-footed booby known in the Galapagos and "Down Under." Our brown friend ranges as far north as the Gulf of California, and even on both coasts of the United States. Like other boobies, it feeds with spectacular plunges into the sea. "Come look at this," Keller cried one morning. He'd been watching them for nearly an hour, he said, both bird and man looking for flying fish. The first booby appeared out of nowhere, he said,  descended expertly, then boom --  plunged deep into the waters after his catch. Sometimes he devoured it -- sometimes not. Some believe the booby's soaring and diving is part of the attraction of a mate. DESPITE ITS  unfortunate name, the booby is one smart birdie. Some believe the Wright Brothers studied him! This master of the sky is patient and strong. Red-footed boobies get the booby endurance award, traveling up to 93 miles, but the brown boobies we saw followed our ship for more than 65 miles one day. The silly sounding name derives from a Spanish slang term bobo, meaning "stupid." Hungry sailors noticed these tame birds landing on board ships. Hmmmmmm.  Could they be eaten?  Indeed they were, as they're easily captured. In fact, ship-wrecked sailors, including William Bligh of the famous Bounty, caught and ate boobies to stay alive after being set adrift. DURING MATING season, boobies are are among the thousands of species of critters who gather to pair up, engage in their own special breed of flying, dancing and romancing. For my money, they're one of the most fascinating -- and sexy -- birds.  I loved being Clever writing, strong acting and interesting characters await in "Mud Blue Sky" by Moxie. in their presence for a few days. I may borrow from the booby romance ritual.  I'm practicing my footwork! DON'T MISS:   Moxie Theatre's "Mud Blue Sky" is a lively new comedy in a lively theater town.  The story is about aging flight attendants, friendship and a pot dealer who misses his prom. Witty dialogue, fine acting and sharp direction unfold with humor, pathos and insight into the human condition. All for an enriching  time at the theater. The production runs through June 8 in Cygnet's old space near UCSD in San Diego. Call 858 598-7620, www.moxietheatre.com Greece's Suda Bay War Cemetery attracts tourists worldwide.  Crete's excellent harbors played a key role in World War II.   COMING SOON:   Before we dip over to sunny Fort Lauderdale with its romantic water taxis, hip eateries and exciting nightlife, we pay homage to a Greek war cemetery, which houses the remains of thousands of Americans, Aussies, Brits and Kiwis. Our annual homage to Memorial Day, next. We're about travel advice and adventure tips, always with a sense of fun! Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays, weekends and as the muse dictates, at: www.whereiscookie.com

From the moment  you arrive in a new airport, you'll experience myriad adjustment challenges, including getting acquainted with new technology involving phone, e-mail, texting, GPS and more. Here in Barcelona, we used a mobile broadband connecting device to access GPS. Many options await, so do a little homework, take some time with a phone overseas STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER BEWARE OF ROAMING  charges and other surprises if you're planning to use your phone abroad. A mobile broadband connecting  device can help you communicate. After some crazy, high wireless bills, we've done some homework and find that for our needs, it is easier and cheaper to text and e-mail than to phone home while abroad. You can phone with your own device, but it's costly. ON THIS LAST, most recent Europe trip the rental car agent in Barcelona suggested a device to give us internet service in our small, non-GPS foreign car. The device was 10 Euros, or about $14-$15 a day, but worth its weight in gold.  We connected our smart phone by wi-fi to the device and in turn to the internet, allowing GPS mapping and texting and e-mailing for our five days in Spain's Costa Brava. We don't have global phone service where you can take any phone anywhere, navigating a dozen or more band widths. If you're in the same boat, a good starting place for questions is with your carrier's web site.  Get a human being to explain what services they offer abroad, and how much you might expect to pay. You'll hear numbers and letters and bands and a language that sounds foreign.  Ask the tech person to "translate." A pause to connect in a foreign airport. A GPS while abroad is a good idea, but there are options. MOST US  cell phones are either not GSM (quad band) phones, or they are locked GSM phones. So -- to avoid roaming charges, you must have an unlocked GSM phone so you can buy SIM cards for it for other countries (like using a local calling card in another country-- more SIM tips below). If you absolutely must have phone conversation, do your homework and make a plan before you touch the "send" button. Otherwise, you might receive a bill that will knock your socks off. Starting in 2006, mobile broadband access became increasingly available at the consumer level using "3G" and "4G" technologies -- HSPA, EV-DO, HSPA+ and LTE. Check out your options before you leave the U.S. All the four major wireless operators in the U.S. can provide international roaming in parts of the world, but some carriers are more limited by where they can offer service based upon the available technology.  *In the U.S., wireless operators use two main cellular technologies: GSM and CDMA. *GSM, or global system for mobile communications, is used throughout much of the world, including in Europe where  There it is considered the norm.  Canada, Latin America, the Caribbean, Africa, Australia, and New Zealand, as well as many parts of Asia and the Middle East also use this system. Japan and Korea are different; we address that below.  In the U.S., AT&T and T-Mobile USA operate GSM networks. As a result AT&T and T-Mobile have the most extensive networks abroad. * AT&T HAS  roaming agreements in more than 190 countries throughout the world. Its triband and quadband phones work in most parts of the world, except in Japan and South Korea, where you'll need a special phone that either supports CDMA or uses the 3G standard UMTS in the 2100 MHz frequency band. Sony Ericsson, Nokia, and a few other phone manufacturers now offer multi-band GSM phones that also include support for UMTS 2100. This coverage also extends to some cruise ships. More about that....  Sometimes you'll see  a sign signalling cell  phones aren't allowed.  * WE SPENT  a couple hours talking with  Verizon, which is our carrier, before this recent trip.  They offer a few "world phones" that have both Often, a remote port or mountain range can block cell reception. CDMA and GSM radios built in. These include, the BlackBerry 8830 World Edition, BlackBerry Storm, and the Samsung Renown. The timing wasn't good for us because of our current contract.  But Verizon does offer an option for travelers who don't have a GSM/CDMA Verizon handset and who are traveling abroad to a country that does not use CDMA. This program, called Global Travel Program, is offered to current Verizon Wireless subscribers without a daily rental fee or security deposit. THE PROGRAM  is designed for customers traveling on short trips that last less than 21 days. Customers may call 800-711-8300 to speak with a Global Services Activation specialist to request a global phone. Being on water, even in Seattle, can mean roaming charges.  * IF YOU ARE  satisfied with e-mailing and texting abroad, we recommend that.  Sure, you can talk to anybody anytime.  On a ship, though, you will go through the ship's satellite communications.  It will be expensive. We prefer to buy an internet package, sold by the minutes you expect to use.  Most ships are now set up so you can use your phone or laptop in your stateroom and nearly every line also offers a computer center now. * Between our shipboard package, and our internet connectivity on land, we were connected via e-mail, text and GPS at a reasonable cost. * OTHER OPTIONS  for phoning abroad include buying your own cheap phone and some minutes, or taking your own phone and buying a SIM card. (A dizzying array of options await with SIM. Again, it depends on how "techy" you are. Our favorite travel warrior, writer Rick Steves, has a wonderful essay on mobile phone and SIM cards in Europe.  Google him and his travel communication tips.) The trick is not to be a slave to technology, but to have communication enough to make you happy and relaxed and able to enjoy being far away without worry about home or office. COMNG UP:   Okay, enough with technology.  We're pausing from phones and rental cars to take you to the Anza-Borrego Desert in southern California, for delightful sculpture. Remember to explore, learn and live.  We post Wednesdays and weekends, so please tell your friends about: www.whereiscookie.com

This happy reveler resides in Harrah's, a popular New Orleans casino, completely decorated in Mardi Gras motif. Cookie and keller take time out from Carnival  in Rio, for a water break with a new friend. LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL, BABY, WITH FUN, FUN, FUN TIMES GALORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Balloons, treats and masks mark carnival time in Rio.  WE'VE ENJOYED FUN  Mardi Gras in Germany, in Rio, in New Orleans and in our winter base here in San Diego. This year’s Mardi Gras comes just a few days before Saint Patrick's Day -- which we've had the pleasure of celebrating in Chicago, Dublin, and Butte, Montana! Humans, it seems, need to celebrate, whether in festivals marked by feathers, elaborate costumes, balloons, beads and booze -- or in parades, feasts and dancing. Mardi Gras signals that spring is coming and that frenzy -- after our brutal North American winter -- is underway. MARDI GRAS  is one of the craziest and largest parties in the U.S., and no city takes Mardi Gras more seriously than New Orleans.  Even during our visit two months ago, hotels were fully booked for this week.   Every year, partygoers by the hundreds flock to New Orleans to partake of  the floats, festivities and food, and leave their money and mark on the Big Easy.  We were happy to find the city party-loving spirit intact, despite an arduous recovery from Hurricane Katrina. A Rio street vendor serves up a Mardi Gras coconut.  MARDI GRAS  means “Fat Tuesday” in French, and is observed in many places around the world, including Rio, which we also visited on an eye-opening Brazil trip. The day's origins are in medieval Europe and ancient Rome. Like Christmas, it has its roots in pagan traditions. Again, as with Christmas, religious leaders hedged their bets and let the pagas party and dance, incorporating pagan traditions into Christianity. EVENTUALLY , the celebration spread from Rome across Europe to the New World. Those party-loving southerners made Mardi Gras a legal holiday in Louisiana in 1875, where parades and celebrations continue right on through Ash Wednesday and Lent, past St. Patrick's Day and into Easter. Then it's spring and an excuse for more partying to July Fourth! WHILE MARDI  Gras is not universally celebrated across the U.S. many cities and regions in the U.S. have flashy celebrations, because of the French, Spanish, and colonial influences through the settling years of their history. The earliest documented Carnival celebration in North America was on the west bank of the Mississippi river about 60 miles downriver from present-day New Orleans. THAT MARDI GRAS was March 3, 1699. In honor of this holiday, Iberville named the spot Point du Mardi Gras, or Mardi Gras Point. Other early celebrations occurred in Mobile, Biloxi, Pensacola and on the east coast in New York and Boston. Chicago has a rollicking Mardi Gras. The partying usually extends several days and has become known as "the Carnival season" a last hurrah before the days of penance observed by some between Ash Wednesday and Easter Sunday. CRUISE SHIPS celebrate Mardi Gras with all the trappings of land-locked revelry. The familiar traditions include bead throwing, mask wearing and coconut painting, all widely practiced today.The mask tradition derives from revelers' desire to escape constraints of class and society. Mask wearers could easily mingle with people of different classes and be whomever they desired, at least for a few days. Cookie and Keller direct traffic with "King Neptune" on a shipboard passage through the mid-Atlantic. IN NEW ORLEANS , float riders are required to have a mask on. On Fat Tuesday, masking is legal for all Mardi Gras attendees – although   store owners often post signs asking those entering to kindly remove their masks first.   Torch bearers date way back. FLAMBEAUX  or flaming torches, dates to the pre-electricity days when celebrants carried rope soaked in pitch then set alight. That way, party goers could continue merry-making past dark. Slaves were the original torch bearers and earned coins tossed their way as thanks for lighting the way for the floats. Today's torch bearers often dance and spin their kerosene lights, earning sometimes hundreds of dollars during a parade. The good times roll down the crowded streets of New Orleans last Mardi Gras. THE THROWING  of beads was the idea of the king of the a carnival in 1872. He chose royal colors: purple for justice, gold for power and green for faith. The plan was to toss the color to people exhibiting the color’s meaning. The beads were glass! Today's beads are mostly plastic and the color-coded meaning has gone by the wayside but beads live on as a staple of Mardi Gras worldwide. This carnival king directs his way through the crowds.  MANY CARNIVAL  towns name a king.  He is usually called Rex.  The first New Orleans king was crowned in 1872, and that he was the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, who during a visit to the U.S. befriended U.S. Army Col. George Custer.  The Civil Was hot shot met his end in my native state of Montana four years later. Oak Alley Plantation boasts 28 300-year old oak trees. COMING SOON : While we're in a New Orleans frame of mind, we visit Oak Alley Plantation and tackle the complex issue of slavery with a consideration of what we might learn from preserving this beautiful plantation. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Keller prepares to take the wheel of a rental car  on an autumn trip to Olbia, Sardinia. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Roundabouts are the norm in much of Europe and the United  Kingdom.   Here, a Dali sculpture in Figueres, eastern Spain, decorates the curve. DRIVING WHILE  abroad can be a delightful way to discover new terrain at your own pace. We've made friends in rental cars, gleaned information and tips, discovered off-the-beaten path treasures. But renting a car successfully, getting the best deal and returning the auto safely take courage and know-how. Wednesday, we laid the groundwork for getting your rental agreement before you leave the U.S.  We also talked about ways to prevent extra charges -- from dents that you didn't cause to gas that you didn't use. Here are more tips to help you renting abroad:  Go small:  Tight, narrow streets laid out for horse and carriage, centuries before cars, are common in many European, South American, Middle-Eastern and Asian cities.  Parking areas are small or non-existent so think small, to allow you to maneuver better. In a traffic jam, you can sometimes back or turn your way out in a small car.  Not so with a large car which will also be much more expensive. Driving a rental car in the Middle East may yield more than cars!   WHEN MAKING reservations for your car pickup -- particularly at an airport -- remember that the company's fleets are often stocked with larger cars, for use by business travelers on expense accounts.  You might receive a free upgrade for a subcompact booking and could still end up with a car size to maneuver easily.  European cars are smaller than their American counterparts.  If you're only a couple or threesome, no problem. Small may not suit large or tall Americans, or those carrying lots of luggage, or traveling with a group or big family. Consider all that. Safely delivered to her Costa Brava hotel, Cookie prepares to celebrate! Parking in large cities calls for ingenuity as these Roman cars attest.  In many countries, manual transmissions are the norm. So we pay a higher price for an automatic. If you are comfortable with a stick shift, you will save money. Remember, though, that driving overseas is much more taxing than driving at home. FIRST, YOU  probably have no idea where you're going, roads are often narrow, winding or  poorly paved, or precariously constructed on mountainsides or ocean cliffs. Road signs and street markings are different. A recent drive from Barcelona to Spain's rugged Costa Brava was spectacular but yielded some frightening moments. Another drive from Florence south to Sienna was breathtaking but terrifying. Many Italian drivers have lead feet and we were passed and honked at by many aspiring Mario Andrettis!  Neither of us likes to drive with a stick shift. So if not all  drivers in your group are comfy with a manual transmission, get an automatic and suck up the higher price. Remember, too, if you're in England, Australia or other "left side of the road" countries, driving has additional challenges. Navigating those roundabouts calls for clear thinking and determination. Be sure everyone's comfortable with driving on the left side of the road -- it can be challenging. Navigating a busy Rome street calls for clear thinking, then action.       BE AWARE : many countries have a minimum and maximum age for renters. Drivers under 25 or over 70 may face surcharges or not be permitted to rent at all.   International driving permits:   If you're traveling in an English-speaking country, you can get by with an American driver's license. Check with the consulate or embassy of the country you're visiting to find out policies on international drivers.  Many countries will ask that you also obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP). This is basically a paper that translates your into into 10 languages. It is recognized by over 150 countries. If you are renting a car abroad, you may be asked to present one along with your regular state license. You must be at least 18 years old to get an IDP. The car rental agencies can give you information country by country. TWO AGENCIES i n the U.S.   are authorized to issue IDP's: the American Automobile Association (AAA) and the National Automobile Club. Fakes are also available on the web so beware! Get your IDP before leaving home: it must be issued in your home country. An IDP is not a license; it's merely confirms and translates the license issued in your native country. If you are stopped by officials abroad, you must present your home country's license and IDP where needed. Be careful to obey local tolls, rules and lights. Any citation issued abroad will find its way for payment through your rental car company. Finally, check with your auto insurance before you go to determine if you are covered while driving abroad.  If not, we recommend purchasing minimum insurance.  You might be the world's best driver, but if someone smashes into you in transit, or in a hotel or restaurant lot, you'll be covered. It's worth a few extra Euros for the peace of mind.  To GPS or not?  We'll answer that in the next post. Keller is ready for his close-up on overseas technology. COMING UP:  You're rented your car and are off to foreign places and discoveries.  Now, how to get technology to co-operate with you overseas. You may have to file a plug to fit into an outlet -- but we can help you avoid checking with an engineer! More on technology wherever you're going.  Travel in Europe with technology, but don't necessarily plan on phoning home.  Remember to explore, learn and live. Tell your friends and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

A VISIT AND OVERHEARD CONVERSATION BRING REVELATION OF THE PLACE'S HISTORIC IMPORTANCE With the grandeur of Tara in "Gone with the Wind," Oak Alley's "big house" rests at the end of a grand oak entryway. The view from the second-story balcony at Oak Alley.   A docent in period dress guides guests through the living room of Oak Alley. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PLANTATIONS make me nervous. Revisiting the sorry history of slavery should make one uncomfortable. The juxtaposition of small, stark slave houses against the opulent mansions is always startling. Especially with "Twelve Years a Slave" fresh in our minds, and its deserving recent Oscar wins, one realizes that suffering and pain of many crafted "the good life" for the few. YET HISTORY  lives on -- with all its complexity -- in the beautiful Oak Alley Plantation near New Orleans. Located in Vacherie, Louisiana, where creole French is still spoken and the oaks are centuries old, Oak Alley is commanding. With its graceful crepe myrtles, restful gardens and enduring cast iron sugar kettles, one almost smells molasses thickening in the glory days. I VISITED  the plantation for the second time, thinking of my journeys in terms of understanding history.  I overheard one tourist say to another, "I noticed in the guest register that your name is Riley.  My family might have been owned by your family." Spring is fully sprung at Oak Alley. And old-fashioned blacksmith shows how to make nails in an exhibit. INSTEAD OF  offending one another, the two women -- one white, one black, both curious and articulate -- exchanged addresses and the intent to continue their acquaintance in pursuit of research and information. Learning trumped guilt, prejudice or anger. Oak Alley, now a non-profit trust and historical monument, gained a reputation before the Civil War for its decent treatment of slaves.  Owned by a wealthy Creole sugar planter, Jacques Telesphore Roman, and his bride Celina, it is a splendid example of the Greek Revival architecture of the times, designed by the bride's father. Cookie pauses outside the slave quarters of Oak Alley. THE PLACE  was a  prestigious home and grand receptions were held in the ballroom. (Couples still marry in the historic home and one was planning their wedding during our visit.) But the oaks are the undisputed stars. The "alley" for which the place is named is a quarter-mile long with more than two dozen 300-year old Virginia Live Oaks. The trees are registered and named. The star of the oak show has a 30-foot girth and 127-foot spread of limbs. Live oaks can live to be 600 years old, which makes the Oak Alley trees only middle-aged. THE GRANDLY  decorated and furnished rooms of the Big House contrast to the slavery, two rows of cabins where the ledger with the slaves names is displayed. One of the property's most successful gardeners was a slave named Antoine, who successfully grafted 110 trees in a nearby orchard.  His showpiece trees were particularly pretty and prolific, An Oak Alley bedroom, with canopy. but were displaced to make way for sugarcane through the years. Last year, Oak Alley Foundation planted 13 pecan trees to replace them and to honor the gifted slave, Antoine, who made the pecan an important part of the plantation's legacy.The home's last owners, the Stewarts, are buried on the place along with beloved pets. The lady of the house, Josephine, gardened daily until her death in 1972.  The boxwoods she fussed over are 100 years old. The slave quarters are of course simpler, more utilitarian. A HOST  of movies has been filmed at the plantation, including the 1965 classic, "Hush, Hush, Sweet Charlotte," with Bette Davis, 1993's "Interview with the Vampire" (Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt stayed in New Orleans during the filming of the Anne Rice best seller) and in Beyonce's hit music video, "Deja Vu." UNLIKE MANY  other historic homes and plantations, Oak Alley is still a working sugarcane operation.  The Big House tour is fascinating and you can self-guide yourself around the slave grounds, with a stop for a praline or a dish of gumbo at the restaurant.   OakAlleyPlantation.org COMING SOON: Begorrah! 'Tis St. Patrick's Day soon.  We'll   look at the loves and lore of the Irish and some of the world's most joyful parades. Who was St. Patrick -- really? Is it true about the snakes? All that and more at: www.whereiscookie.com . Remember to explore, learn and live. Find us Wednesdays and weekends and share the link.