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San Diego Rep scores again with comic, provocative work about racism CLICK HERE ==>>to buy Lilian's Last Dance STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER, and courtesy San Diego Rep, Scatena Daniels San Diego Repertory Theatre, based downtown in Horton Plaza's Lyceum, is a beautiful  venue known for its equally attractive work, done with enterprise, daring and excellence. A QUALITY work of art should invite conversation.  It should make us think, encourage discussion, even debate.  It should linger in our mind, like a pleasant meal or a satisfying night out. Above all, it should be viewed or inspected more than once. This holds true for a fine painting, a quality poem, a symphony that scintillates. It certainly applies to San Diego Repertory Theatre's current production of Greg Kalleres' clever and sometimes disturbing play, "Honky." Many of the opening night audience wore sneakers, as the invitation suggested, in keeping with the storyline.  The playwright was inspired by the shooting death of a young black teenager killed because of his trendy new Air Jordan shoes back in 1989.  In Kalleres' drama, the shoes are flashy "Sky Max" basketball shoes. REP ARTISTIC director Sam Woodhouse turns out a riveting, rollicking tour de force -- sometimes a "tour de farce" -- which wickedly send up the advertising "sell at any cost" mentality, and challenges our views of one another as diverse people sharing the same planet. Flanking Jacque Wilke are Cortez L. Johnson and Deleon Dallas.  The three actors are part of a tense but often funny and wonderfully acted play, "Honky." A terrific cast of talented actors keeps the action lively and plays multiple parts.  You'll meet Frederick Douglass and Abe Lincoln, along with two basketball playing kids, a wiley ad man, an ingenuous blonde with a big heart and quick mind.  She acts essentially as the storyline's conscience, and various other "regular folk" woven into the tale as we question ethics, morality, propriety and doing the right thing. Playing a major part in the riveting production is a fabulous, elaborate set designed by Sean Fanning. Imaginative use of high-tech graphics and video images provide background to the three-dimensional space.  Headlines and photos blend with furniture from the neighbor's parlor to stir the imagination and enhance the conflicts and emotional confusion the characters feel. Woodhouse, a company founder,  is a master storyteller.  He pushes the envelope, as always, to deliver theater for the thinking person. The Rep deserves kudos for this cutting edge choice, a work hard-hitting, funny and moving. Bravo, Rep. A job well done since 1976 Thanks again for making us think while we're entertained and engaged. www. sdrep.org and check out all the special artistic events surrounding the production.   NEXT UP;  We're back on the trail of  "Lilian's Last Dance," our newly published novel. Exciting reviews are coming in to Amazon. We hope you're enjoying the eBook now. Bill Jones' original watercolor of a cowboy or paniolo fording the stream.  It is part of the cover design collage for the new novel, "Lilian's Last Dance." ...Celeste had this to say: "An amazing and exciting romp around the world. This Big Sky girl enjoyed traveling around with Lilian on her great adventure! The author's delightful prose and word paintings bring to life many intriguing characters and the locales they visit. Just enough intermingling of history's greats, along with a little sex, drugs & cowboys, and you've got an exciting read -- quick paced enough to keep one's attention riveted to the last page."   We'll explore the locations and people we visited in researching and writing the novel, from Hawaii's paniolos on the Big Island's working Parker Ranch to Chicago's Palmer House, a luxurious Chicago hotel where our characters stayed. Remember: carpe diem, so explore, learn and live  and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

The Barrister Bed and Breakfast in Helena offers a warm, history filled stay in a stately mansion near the cathedral. BROTHER AND SISTER ACT MAKE THE BARRISTER B&B A HAPPY, HISTORIC HIT Beverages are available in the dining room, which sports a portrait of young Queen Elizabeth II. The Barrister takes its name from its owner's law career. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Special touches and an artful eye mark each Barrister guest room. THE BARRISTER B&B  is the kind of place you'd send your best hip friend or your beloved and proper dowager aunt.  Both would have a delightful stay. The Barrister is the B&B world's equivalent of "black tie and blue jeans." Both are appropriate. You may arrive in formal attire or casual wear, dressed for a wedding or a hike. Either way, you'll feel instantly at home. The Captain's Quarters sports a nautical motif. The 1874 mansion, across from the imposing St. Helena Cathedral, was once the home of the Catholic priest. Owner and proprietor Nick Jacques, Helena native and fifth generation Montanan, remembers being called from the cathedral to the priest's digs across the street. There in the now B&B, young Jacques was chastised for a minor infraction occurred during his altar boy duties. FAST FORWARD  a few decades: Jacques now holds court before an international clientele of visitors to the Barrister B&B, where years ago he was reprimanded. Native San Diegan and lifelong sailor Keller enjoyed staying in the Captain's digs. A retired criminal defense attorney, Nick received his law credentials at University of Montana then returned to Helena to form his successful but taxing practice.  An auto accident changed the course of his career.  He was hit as he towed his boat from a nearby landing, inspiring the classic "wake-up call." He fully recovered from his injuries  but retired to follow his dream of operating a B&B.  That was nearly 20 years ago. Charmed by a B&B he visited on his favorite holiday island, Maui, Jacques said "I just had a deep feeling that I could do this and would be fairly good at it." THE WORD  "fairly" is  an understatement. From the moment one arrives at the Barrister -- named, of course, because "barrister" is Brit speak for attorney -- one feels relaxed, pampered and completely comfortable. Helena's Cathedral of St. Helena is across the street from the B&B. Tours of the cathedral or state capital make a pleasant diversion. Nick's sister, Liane Jacques, is the B&B's innkeeper.  She left Helena to receive her degree at Notre Dame and wears multiple hats as interior decorator, reservations and events manager, copy writer and designer, director of housekeeping, chef and "elf," flitting quietly from room to room and event to event, organizing and accenting everything with her artful touches. Cocktails are served nightly on the Barrister's relaxing porch. "I couldn't do this at this level without Liane," says her proud brother, whose travel passion takes him from the operation from time to time.  Despite retiring his "barrister" shingle and leaving the law profession, Nick still serves.  But rather than defending the downtrodden and hapless, he's entertaining appreciative travelers. Cookie was invited to play the parlor's beautiful grand piano. "Now, I have nothing but happy endings," Nick said, sharing his considerable knowledge of Helena with guests at the Barrister's antique dining table. "I connect with people each day." THE BARRISTER'S guest books -- one in each of the handsome rooms -- contain enthusiastic thank-yous from contented visitors, including newlyweds, bird watchers, outdoor lovers and politicians. Kudos and compliments come to the Barrister from many U.S. states and far corners of the world.  "Such an elegant place," "A most relaxing and hospitable time," "Gracious hospitality at every turn," "Beautiful environment" and "Fabulous breakfast" are praises sung by visitors. Each room is decorated by the brother and sister, who collaborated to honor a family member in photos and decor in each suite. The place is a treasure trove of history lovingly preserved and elegantly shared. An antique bar attracts conversation in the kitchen, framed by paintings. One room, The Morning Room, was part of the priest's suite during the years the place was owned by the Diocese.  It is now a cheerful and intimate welcome to Helena and the Victorian mansion.  Six fireplaces adorn the rooms and high ceilings and carved staircases enhance the allure.  Stained glass windows are also part of the charm, as is a grand piano which has been played by many of Helena's visiting VIP musicians.  I had the pleasure of playing for our small group -- visitors from several states -- in town for a wedding reception hosted at the Barrister. (Special catered events are a Barrister specialty!) An antique banister found in the attic now graces the Barrister's stairs.  GUESTS ENJOY  the home as if it were their own, making themselves comfortable in the parlor, formal dining room, den, library or an enclosed sun porch, where we enjoyed take-out Italian food one night.  We'd been treated to an olive tapenade and wine before dinner, with Liane joining us for cocktails and stories.  And because we visited on a Saturday, we had the pleasure of hearing the bells of St. Helena Cathedral ring out Sunday morning while we enjoyed a beautifully served breakfast-brunch of quiche, bacon, fresh fruit salad and homemade breads.   The Barrister's pretty rooms boast family heirlooms  -- beds, lamps, divans, chairs, a claw's foot bath, and ornate tables -- making them a big draw for both antique aficionados and history buffs.  Our "Captain's Quarters" was decked out in nautical lore, and the honeymooning couple across the hall from us had a boutique-inspired room with floral designs Helena's pretty parks, squares and historic buildings await near the Barrister. and baroque appointments. Liane's sharp eye is courtesy of her career as an interior designer with years of high-end projects in southern California, Oregon and elsewhere. When her brother suggested a partnership, she returned to Helena four years ago to become an integral component of the enterprise. PROXIMITY  to Helena's sights is a big plus for the historic building, and Helena's lively cultural scene is worth a few days' visit.  There's the Myrna Loy Arts Center, named after the famed actress born in Helena; the Archie Bray Foundation, known for stimulating ceramics; the Holter Museum of Art, with world class exhibits; and day trips to mining towns, rodeo towns, mineral baths,. trout fishing havens and beautiful drives -- just for sight-seeing. Canyon Ferry Lake is known nationally for its water sports, boating services and campgrounds. WE STOPPED  at Gates of the Mountains along the Missouri, and hope to return when the boat tour season is back. Freezeout Lake and birding beckon on a lovely fall day, next at whereiscookie. This time of year, as the snowbirds leave the northern Rockies, the Barrister hosts many Canadian visitors.  Helena is a perfect day's drive from Calgary. We hope to encore our perfect stay, to enjoy another musical session with our music buff hosts! 406 443-7330 for reservations. COMING UP:  We'd never been to Fairfield, Montana, but we'll be back.  Beautiful scenery, nice people, a couple fun restaurants, a little gambling and Freezeout Lake, for a bounty of birds to watch. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie with Nick and Nora on a walk in Davis, Calif., during which time she embraced her genetic dog disorder. ABIDING LOVE OF CANINES IS A LONG ESTABLISHED FAMILY TRAIT "Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole." -- writer, photographer Roger Caras.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie's mother, Ellen Nystul and her beloved Scottie, Jinx, in 1941 in Columbus, Montana. Jinx ate shoes, books and the legs off a piano -- but Ellen loved him dearly.   Cookie and her sister Robbie with Nick, near Carmel. The wind was blowing, and Nick's ears were back, too.   "A dog is the only thing on earth that loves you more than he loves himself." -- Josh Billings, aka Henry Wheeler Shaw, humorist. Nora, left, and Nick, enjoy the Fess Parker Doubletree from their oceanside perch in dog friendly Santa Barbara, Calif. Cookie's mother, Ellen, loved labs Drexler, left, and Pfeiffer. I INHERITED MANY traits from my mother:  musical talent, a love of travel, a fondness for tomatoes, snapdragons and the color purple, a painful lower back, less than perfect vision, and a lifelong love of dogs.  My mother had dogs all her life, as did her mother and her mother's mother. Apparently, I come by this affliction honestly. ALL MY ANCESTORS  were great storytellers and had many stories about their beloved companions. Cookie's great-grandparents had many dogs, too, including this miniature cocker  spaniel.  Some think her name was Marlene. Others think Trixie. My mother's most notorious dog was her adored Scottish terrier, Jinx. Like all terriers, he was spirited, feisty, loyal,smart and quick. He was also, apparently, aptly named. Sigmund Freud said, "Dogs love their friends and bite their enemies, unlike people who are incapable of pure love and always mix love and hate."  Nick and Nora enjoy the Pollard Hotel in Red Lodge, Montana, one of more than 200 pet friendly hotels in which they've stayed. JINX HAD  a long record of loving.  But he knew hate, too.  He hated when his favorite slippers were removed from the bedroom and he disliked the removal of the socks after laundry time -- before he could sample them. He was the family's most pronounced failure in our inability to train dogs.  Despite numerous attempts to reform Jinx, he ate shoes, books, boxes of candy, thawing meat and the legs off a baby grand piano. Nick's prancing attracts admirers and dog lovers wherever the writers go. He learned nothing from hundreds of dollars of obedience lessons.  He was also beloved until his final day -- my mother swore that he could sing -- and Jinx probably died with furniture slivers and shoe leather in his mouth.   MY MOTHER'S  grandmother loved dogs, too, and had many terriers and cocker spaniels. I, in turn, would come to love my first cocker, Beau Peep, a gift from my daddy's cousin Sally Jane, who found him in a camp ground in western Montana and brought him to us when I was five years old. Cookie, Keller and the Yorkies - bonded forever on the California coast. BEAU FOLLOWED me to grade school each day and I'll never forget the day I walked home -- frightened because Beau had not been there to meet me. I saw the blood on the road in the snow as I approached the house.  Beau was done in by a milk truck, skidding to miss him on icy streets. My thoughtful parents and grand folks hastily took him away to the ranch for burial before I could see his mangled body.  AFTER SHE  married, my mother began a campaign of dog salvation and child rearing. She and dad rescued ranch dogs who tested the patience of their owners, failing to herd properly and making friends with the bears who broke into the hen house.  BONGO DRUMS  was named for the sound his tail made when he thumped it on the hardwood floors. Goldie, not very originally named, was a beautiful golden retriever who swam the Stillwater and Yellowstone rivers until she grew too fat from grandma's hamburger.   "Dogs are better than humans because they know but do not tell." -- poet Emily Dickinson. BLONDIE was a circus dog, bought by my daddy for $10 after the gypsy circus ended and all the animals went to homes in our small Montana town. I never knew who took the Elephant, Rosie. Blondie was as big as we could manage. She jumped through hoops and was a delightful companion for years.  Her final resting place was a small coffin lovingly crafted by my carpenter grandfather Gustav. So many dogs, so little time. I've loved them all well and now understand that -- like all things "in the genes" -- this delightful disorder cannot be helped. Only enjoyed. The Barrister Bed and Breakfast, aptly named because its owner is a well respected retired Helena attorney, beckons guests. COMING SOON : We're sorting more than 2,000 Glacier Park trip photos, chronicling our odyssey from the Stillwater Valley through charming Fairfield, Montana, into Glacier and back through Helena, where we found a bed and breakfast fit for a king -- or a barrister! Follow us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com for travel insights and entertaining banter about food, wine, fun, romance and being alive and on the road!    And remember -- "Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea." Author Robert A. Heinlein said it best.

The Wapiti Valley offers a beautiful drive in splendid fall weather, with changing colors, elk on the move and more. FALL ROAD TRIP IS JUST THE TICKET FOR A QUICK GET-AWAY-- WITH YORKIES, SCENERY AND ELK Elk -- here a bull with his harem -- live in large numbers in Wapiti, a Cree Indian word which means "elk" -- makes sense, doesn't it?   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Nick and Nora enjoyed the Wapiti sun, and a dog-friendly stay. Yellowstone Valley Inn and RV Park offers rustic, comfortable  cabins, some dog friendly, and a splendid buffet breakfast. THE DRIVE  through the Wapiti Valley yields plenty of wildlife, including the elk which gave this gorgeous corner of the Rockies its name. Wapiti is Cree for elk! Trees are turning in the Wapiti Valley creating a fall colors bonanza. What could be romantic than driving through the autumn scenery with your honey, your Yorkies and gorgeous views? Ah, it's contentment with a capital "C." FOR YEARS,  I've loved this corner of Wyoming. I've seen more bears near the East Entrance of Yellowstone National Park than I've seen anywhere else in the park. We've also seen abundant elk, spectacular rock ridges, beautiful turn-outs along the Shoshone River, and an eccentric house atop a hill. You've probably wondered about the house; you can't miss it. It's an eye catching jumble of styles and daring techniques -- and this time through, I decided to do a bit of homework. The Smith Mansion is a sight to behold from the nearby road through Wapiti.  THE SMITH MANSION,  sometimes known as "the crazy house," stands high in the beautiful Wapiti Valley, closer to the park than to Cody. It is a piece of the Wapiti Valley's colorful history with as many stories about it as there are old timers to tell them.  Stop in any of the lodgings or restaurants along the drive and you'll get an interesting tale or two. According to a newspaper article, in which Sunny Larsen was interviewed,  The Wapiti Valley can be a base or an entry point for exploring nearby Yellowstone and Teton National Parks. the house was built by her father, talented architect and engineer, Francis Lee Smith.  Sadly, he died at age 48 from a fall in 2002, preferring to do his own work himself on the dangerous ledges in Wyoming's winds. THE PLACE  is for sure a piece of artwork left for the public, built by the late Architect/Engineer: Francis Lee Smith. Smith's daughter, who grew up in the home, began The Smith Mansion Preservation Project which is in full swing.  She wants her children and theirs to be able to enjoy the home, which is falling into disrepair and has been vandalized.  Elk antlers grace many lamps and chandeliers in the Wapiti Valley. IT'S JUST one of the picturesque sights you'll encounter in the Wapiti Valley (also called East Yellowstone Valley).  For my pleasure, the drive is an hour plus of the prettiest driving around. It lies between Cody, Wyoming, and the aforementioned east entrance of Yellowstone, and you'll be driving on highway US 14-16-20. This 50 mile section of road is designated the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway. It meanders through some of Wyoming's prettiest areas and includes the Buffalo Bill Dam, Buffalo Bill State Park and the Shoshone National Forest, our nation’s first just as we claim Yellowstone Park's "first" status. The Buffalo Bill Dam, named after the famous impresario, Bill Cody, is worth a stop on your way between Cody and Yellowstone Park.  THE DAM visitor center is worth an hour's stop, and do watch for wildlife and interesting rock formations. You'll find a range of guest and dude ranches, motels, campgrounds, restaurants, and gas stations. The mix includes deluxe lodgings, simple campgrounds and smaller, more rustic inns such as the charming Yellowstone Valley Inn, right off the highway.   We had a fine, simple supper in the bar's fancy screening room. The kindly proprietor ushered us in, introduced us to a spirited waitress and hooked us up with Public Television for the finale of  "The Roosevelts," which we'd hated to have missed. (Our room had only "Direct TV" -- no PBS.)  This healthy bison was spotted on a road not originally planned for travel during a recent Yellowstone Park trek. He was so close we heard him breathing! IF YOU'RE  a hiker, you'll be in hiking heaven and the Wapiti also offers horseback riding, fishing, photo ops galore, rafting and boating, mountain biking and hunting.  During breakfast, we visited with couples from Texas and California, both making Wapiti Valley their base for visiting Yellowstone which was fully booked last week! COMING SOON:  The road less traveled!  Don't let yourself get in a rut.  If you always go to Old Faithful, try another destination in Yellowstone.  You might find more buffalo than you can shake your camera at.  Be prepared for surprise and turn change into a plus. If you're adventuresome and flexible, you'll enjoy whatever unfolds, even if it wasn't in the original plan. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Jackson Hole Playhouse, at age 99, is a year younger than the town.  Here, in the rain, it's a nostalgic, pretty sight. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER An energetic cast performs several places in  the vintage theater -- here the lobby. THEY MAY  call the wind Mariah. But they call Jackson Hole Playhouse pure, unadulterated, old-fashioned, down-home western style fun. A lovely meal comes accompanied by spirited pre-show specialty numbers, then diners move from a warm and intimate restaurant area toward a historic theater for a top-notch performance. "Paint Your Wagon" is drawing enthusiastic audiences at Jackson's play house.  If you're looking for an original diversion between side trips through beautiful Grand Teton Park, head for Jackson and the Playhouse. It's just a short hop from Teton Village, if that's where you're staying, as we were. Keller adds his salute to the old West, at a lookout near the town. ONCE IN the town of Jackson, which turned 100 this year, you're find the theater only a block off main street. Look for the elk antler arches which surround the town square. Happily, for a small-town venue, the acting quality is highly professional.  The ensemble is from throughout the U.S., all with impressive performance records and experience in venues ranging from civic theater to cabaret and even off Broadway. Singers mingle with theater lovers during the energetic cameos, and requests are even taken! The pre-show meal is delightful. Bring your own wine, though, for a small corkage fee. Bruce Keller, above, gets a friendly smooch from Christine at Jackson Hole Playhouse where she's a star. Jackson's town square is bordered on all four corners by elk antler arches. Owner Vicki Garnick has devoted her energy and talent to the endeavor for 30 years.  She wears multiple hats, as owner, proprietor, producer and director.  She's also undertaken a massive renovation and fund drive for the theater's 100th birthday in 2015.  (Tax deductible donations are welcome to PO Box 4772, Jackson, Wyo., 83001). THE NON-PROFIT  entertainment on the boards made for a spirited  outing. Shows continue into autumn with "Phantom of the Playhouse" for Halloween, "Elf" for the holidays and "Weekend Comedy" for Valentine's Day and into March. Call 307 733-6994 or go to  www.jhplayhouse.com Jackson has been celebrating its first 100 years with fanfare -- barbecues, cowboy poetry, dancing and sealing of a time capsule. In the tiny town of Wilson, near Jackson, you can drive up for a bottle of wine. AND DON'T  overlook Teton Village, with its world famous Grand Teton Music Festival gearing up again for the summer of 2015.  The beautiful park near our base, The Inn at Jackson Hole, is a delightful place to stroll and the inn offers spacious rooms with gorgeous mountain and village views. The Village Cafe's satisfying breakfast is included in your room price. The village is much newer than Jackson, designed for the ski and tourist trades. but the music festival and top-rated skiing have brought international exposure. Do stroll through the lovely park, taking notice of the bear-proof trash cans and the colorful ski stickers on metal dumpsters. The ski tram runs during summer and autumn, too, offering spectacular valley views. And in nearby towns, you can even find a drive-through wine bar! An artfully landscaped park in central Teton Village connects hotels and eateries to the ski tram, which runs in summer too!   Wapiti Valley holds many delights and stellar landscape. COMING SOON:  Whoa Nellie, What about a night or two in the Wapiti Valley, near Cody?.This beautiful corner of the West is right outside of Cody, Wyo., enroute to Yellowstone Park. You'll see sublime roadside beauty, real cowboys herding cattle to winter pasture and fall foliage to make you weep with joy! Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com Around the corner: a salute to autumn in our national parks, dog loving as a genetic trait, and more fun-loving road trips..

Fall blankets the Teton Range with splendid colors.  It's not to late to plan a trip.  Teton Village and Jackson await! This tranquil morning reflection combines Teton mountains, water and stone. WILD COUNTRY BECKONS FOR SOLITUDE RENEWAL, COMMUNION WITH NATURE AND ROMANTIC TIME TO BOOT   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU  have not visited Grand Teton National Park in a while, or taken a day or two in Yellowstone or Glacier, get yourself there now if you're anywhere near!  Prime fall colors, an abundance of birds and wildlife,  and an absence of crowds make this my favorite "park time." Fall is our reporter's favorite time to visit Yellowstone, for scenery and solitude. You can't visit a national park too many times.  It's just not possible.  Each visit is nuanced, each drive or hike yields different sights. Stop off for an ice cream, and a view of the elk in downtown Mammoth. This healthy bison was on the "second choice" road -- a first-class encounter. Especially in this changing weather, roads close and open on a moment's notice.  Critters and birds are on the move as winter approaches. Examples, from our travels within the last few days in all three of Montana's and Wyoming's national parks -- Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Glacier. *A grizzly sow and her cubs were feasting on the lovely drive from Moose to Jackson, in the Tetons. Thus, the road was closed by the park service, necessitating a detour to Teton Village.  We saw a moose close-up on the revised route, and found a restaurant for a later supper! *In Yellowstone, the direct road from Norris to Old Faithful was closed, so we skipped our favorite geyser and drove to Tower instead. We practically had the road to ourselves and the colors were breathtaking. We saw more bison on that afternoon than we've seen in the last two trips to Yellowstone combined! Mammoth provided great ice cream and dozens of nearby elk. * In Glacier just two days ago, we had snow during our first few hours as we drove north from Fairfield. Undeterred, we  tossed our bags in the hotel room (the lovely Dancing Bears in East Glacier) and took off for Two Medicine Lake for fabulous snow photos.  Next morning, we spent an almost balmy day driving north, watching a grizzly bear at close range for over an hour. FLEXIBILITY  is the key when traveling anywhere, particularly in the parks where road repair and critter movement can close roads.)  But make that part of the fun and be prepared to embrace the change and enjoy the surprises. But aren't flexibility and cultivation of the art of rolling with the punches worthy credos for life itself? This kind of travel is relaxing, romantic and quality -- for conversation and closeness at the shared wonders! We visited the Columbus Cemetery to pay respects to ancestors. We also took the lovely back roads most of the way from Livingston to Columbus, stopping off at the cemetery there to visit our ancestors' graves on a gorgeous fall afternoon. AS I WRITE  this in early October, I hope you, dear readers, are not too far away to drive to one of our splendid national parks. If you are an armchair traveler, get up, hit the computer and plan to book a trip for next season. Our parks are our national treasures. Off-season rates are available and the crowds are gone! For lucky us, we're just minutes as the crow flies from our door in Beartooth country to Yellowstone's northern borders. But each beloved national park has its own distinctive beauty and allure. COMING SOON:   We're winding up our circuit tour of the three national parks closest to us.  Next up, Glacier National Park, the Fairfield Inn, Dancing Bears in East Glacier, and the elegant Barrister Bed and Breakfast in Helena. Plus tips on traveling happily with family. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at:   www.whereiscookie.com

CRUISE JUNKIES OFFER WAYS TO NARROW THE FIELD FOR THE FIRST-TIME OR INFREQUENT CRUISER Bird's eye view for cruisers:  A circle of yachts, large cruise ships and pleasure boats at St. Thomas, Virgin Islands. Crystal's Serenity remains our  favorite of 102 cruises on many lines. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I'VE NEVER MET  a cruise ship I didn't like. But there's a world of difference between the small, intimate vessels and the huge "city on water" mega-ships of the past years. We've had a half-dozen requests recently from first-time and novice cruisers wanting help in narrowing the field. This cave above Toulon, France, offered a gorgeous view for a small group. We hope these hints do the trick. YOUR OWN  personality and preferences will play into your decision -- large or small, glitzy or low-key, dozens of activities or an atmosphere of "amuse yourself." First, consider the ship size and number of passengers it carries. These are useful barometers. Large ships are often called "floating resorts" or "hotels on water."  If there are 2,500 or more people, expect plenty of activity and lots of hustle and bustle. If you're traveling with only a few hundred others, the environment will be quieter and usually more intellectual. But we've met plenty of smart people on large vessels, too. On a large ship, you can be anonymous and keep a low profile, seldom seeing the same people twice. Ships pause in southern Spain before navigating the Straits of Gibraltar. Small ships foster a more casual feeling.  Conversations, quiet games and making new friends are evening activities, rather than the lavish floor shows, a night in the casino or bar hopping. You might be dancing to a jazz trio instead of a 20-piece orchestra. Your choice! Many small ships are modest.  Other small ships pride themselves on lavishness and upscale service. PLUSES  of a large ship: *Mega-ships have lavish nightly entertainment and revues, many bars and restaurants, fully equipped fitness centers with personal trainers, many machines and TVs. The beauty of harbors and the sea can be enjoyed on ships large and small. *Large ships may offer a selection of in-room TV options, including movies, announcements, tour previews, even CD players plus a mix of music stations. *You'll find a large cinema on most big ships, with first-run and recent films each day. *Seminars, lectures, classes, dance lessons, bingo and other games are offered on large ships. You'll never be at a loss for an activity. If you're single or enjoy socializing, you'll be able to participate in theme parties and masquerades and socials inviting other like minded folk.  *If you fear boredom, a large ship might be a better choice for your first cruise. With dozens of activities a day, only the most jaded person will depart the ship feeling unfulfilled. *Shopping:  If you like to shop, head for big ships.  Many have floating versions of all the fine shops we have on land.  Large ships also offer extensive duty free shopping and daily bargains. Smaller vessels offer a chance to explore smaller ports. *24-hour room service and en-suite dining are usually a popular item on big ships. You will also find a florist shop and other specialty shops where you can surprise your partner with a gift or bouquet sent to your stateroom.  SMALL SHIP  advantages: *I'm a reader. Small ships encourage reading and intimate conversation. No "casts of thousands." *Tours are usually small and expertly run, with distinguished professors and guest lecturers describing the ports in a casual environment. (Head for a large ship if you want a huge auditorium with destination images on a large screen.)  But we've met lovely kindred spirits -- experts in history, the arts and archaeology -- on small vessels. The glitz and beauty of large ships, here Royal Caribbean, are a big draw. *Ports of call are generally more exotic and harder to reach in small ships.  Because they can maneuver in intimate ports and harbors, you'll see new villages and towns. If you cruise a lot, the itinerary is not important! Rome, Lisbon, Amsterdam. All great, multiple times. If you're just beginning your travels, ports play a larger role. Smaller ships can get into more exotic places -- here Tenerife in the Canary Islands, in a small, eight-person touring car. *Barge and river cruising: These naturally call for smaller vessels.  We've barged the Loire Valley, Burgundy and Champagne in France, and on the Thames in England.  Once, on an eight-day tulip barge trip in Holland, we were with only one other couple, an older Argentine husband and wife.  We became friends and kept in touch.  But if you happen to book a small vessel with only one other couple -- and don't get along for some reason -- it could be a long eight days.  This has never happened to us. A small port, such as this one in the south of France, may be more appealing than a large, busy port in a major city.  But each has its advantages. *Small vessels such as Seabourn and Silversea offer luxurious treatment and a fine passenger-staff ratio.  Crystal's Serenity offers two floors of Penthouses, gorgeous food and drink, great amenities and extras, and terrific, small tours. In the tradition of "you get what you pay for," the luxury lines cost more. *Besides offering a cozier atmosphere, smaller-size ships tout their unique atmosphere, promising unusual experiences, both on board and ashore. Activities may include kayaking off a wilderness island in Mexico, trimming the sails and climbing the rigging, or island hopping in the Greek Islands. Lisbon's delights include the Belem Tower, which Cookie and Keller visited before their Atlantic cruise. BOTTOM LINE:  What suits your fancy? Full circle to our earlier advice: consider your personality and private life. If you long for the Cookie plays piano whenever and wherever she's invited -- on cruise ships and, here, at Montana Jack's. She'll be there tonight! open ocean but can't stand the thought of an all-night disco,   dining with a thousand others, or queuing up to get off the ship in a congested Caribbean port, you'll probably want a smaller ship. But if you're a veteran cruiser -- and count me as a junkie -- you can have fun in the floating resort, too. You can learn to maneuver the crowds, read and take in the shows, and tailor the cruise to your own liking. "Oh give me a home......" in Nye, MT COMING UP :  Montana Jack's close-up (and Cookie is playing piano there again Saturday and Aug. 31, in Dean, Montana.) We're globe-trotting this month, with a request for a close-up on Barcelona. We've been there many times, and recently. Plus an all-female "Two Gentlemen of Verona" at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, California's coastal gem hotels and home on the range in very rural Nye, Montana.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Road trip to the top of the world:  last week, up the Beartooth Pass on the famed Cooke City Highway. John Steinbeck had Charley, and Keller has Nick and Nora, below.       TRAVEL THE COUNTRY, SEE NEW TERRAIN, ENJOY SURPRISES, AS THE CAR IS YOUR COCOON! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER JOHN STEINBECK  described, when beginning a trip, that delightful sense of the unknown in his engaging "Travels With Charley." He said, “A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” Some of my favorite times happen when I'm on the road -- with Keller and "the pups," who are nearing nine years old.  The sense of adventure, the thrill of the new unfolding, are the bookends to the trip.  We know not where the journey is taking us, except perhaps literally, to "point A" or "point B." But we don't know the subtleties, the small pleasures, the unexpected delights that will fill the book between covers. Each day on the road is full of surprise! We're open, waiting and willing. And that's the thrill of the road trip. Steinbeck found that Charley was the conduit for all sorts of new friendships and adventures. Near Bodega Bay, we stumbled upon the church from Alfred Hitchcock's "The Birds," filmed here in the 1960s. Below, Cookie, Nick and Nora transit Beartooth Pass. THE YORKIES,  Nick and Nora, go with us everywhere on the road -- to the fruit stands, into the dog-friendly motel lobbies we book before we head out, even in Carmel, into the restaurants -- thanks to community icon Doris Day and her love of pets. In Europe, no Yorkies, but plenty of adventure in every village and roundabout. Consider these surprises from our recent summer travels with Nick and Nora. THE CHERRIES  we bought from a roadside stand.  The picnic by the brook with the blue heron in the tree overhead.  The little cafe with terrific clam chowder and chocolate malts made at an old-fashioned soda fountain.  Plus a tiny ice cream for each Yorkie. Meeting a theater lover from Ashland, Oregon, at a B&B in the mountains of Wyoming and talking plays with her over homemade berry pie. Virtues of a road trip are many: No telephones or e-mail to sort.  No cell reception on some of our routes (even better!).  If fires erupt in our family-friends world, someone else can douse them. We eat when we're hungry and we always find fun places to stay in and interesting people to write about. WHAT COULD  be better than packing up for a road trip, then heading out --  comfy in our car, a sunny morning unfolding, a thermos of strong coffee, a half-dozen maps, the Yorkies asleep in their traveling bed and the day spread out before us like an inviting magic carpet. Fresh California fruit, picked that morning, one of the pleasures of the road. WE MIGHT  be on the California coast, or on the back roads of Montana or Wyoming. We might be leaving Barcelona, to Costa Brava, north from Barcelona for a perch at a favorite seaside parador, Aiguablava. We might be traveling through the Loire Valley, or Tuscany, plotting our next gastronomic adventure surrounded by cypress trees and 13th Century buildings. Or we might be heading out of Sydney, Australia, pointed northeast toward Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef with a side trip deep into the rain forest. The best clam chowder of a three-week coastal trip -- right here A LEISURELY road trip is great for romance.  You may be in love with one another already, but to fall in love again on the road -- sharing the beauty, wonder and surprises -- is a bonus to the relationship. Cookie and Keller hadn't planned to feed a giraffe -- but they did, on the road! Steinbeck and Charley, his beloved standard poodle, had their own version of love, and Steinbeck had particular fondness for Montana, my native state.  He said, “I’m in love with Montana. For other states I have admiration, respect, recognition, even some affection. But with Montana it is love. And it’s difficult to analyze love when you’re in it.”  He also said that while it was important to make some sort of plan, it was wise not to expect it to unfold exactly as anticipated. “Once a journey is designed, equipped, and put in process, a new factor enters and takes over. A trip, a safari, an exploration, is an entity, different from all other journeys. It has personality, temperament, individuality, uniqueness. A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless." So it was an unexpected delight when we realized we had a few extra days on our California A side trip to the town of Salvador Dali's birth, Figueras, in northeast Spain.  odyssey.  I called  my nephew, James, and his partner, Kelle, who quickly welcomed us to drive a few hundred extra miles north to remote Mendocino County.  THERE WE  visited their beautiful farm, orchard and wine making operation, and toured an African wildlife preserve -- feeding giraffes in northern California. To cap our spontaneous sidetrip, they  treated us to a fabulous meal at their favorite Point Arena restaurant,  to which they supply organic produce. Ah, I love our roadtrips! An impromptu family reunion occurred in northern California. The road trip segued  to a wildlife preserve and organic farmt. COMING UP: Have you been to Cody, Wyoming, lately?  Buffalo Bill Cody named the town after himself (why not?) and it's full of lore of his life and a world class museum.  Plus California's coastal hotels, an all-girl "Two Gentlemen of Verona" (can you picture it?) at Oregon Shakespeare Festival. This top theater is fun, and we convey its spirit. Plus a Montana couple who make iron art their livelihood. We share their gorgeous one-of-a-kind creations.  All with a sense of fun and pleasure in seeing the world, at: www.whereiscookie.com Remember to explore, learn and live and tell your friends about us.

Bill and Judy Henderson, above, thank several hundred well wishers who gathered at Nye's Fire Hall Sunday. Both expressed bittersweet feelings about their return to Michigan. "You've touched our hearts," said Bill.   RESIDENTS SAY SO LONG TO MERCHANTS, AFTER 43-YEAR TENURE AT NYE TRADING POST Cookie and Judy have a laugh before the festivities begin. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By  BRUCE KELLER IT WAS A community affair, with lots of laughs and some tears, as several hundred Stillwater Valley residents gathered Sunday evening. A tribute and pot-luck dinner honored Bill and Judy Henderson, who came from Detroit 43 years ago to open a small store in Nye that has taken on giant proportions. They've sold Nye Trading Post and are returning to their Michigan roots. Community folks chatted and supped, to honor Bill and Judy. Through the years, everyone who lives within 40 or 50 miles has shopped at the store.  It is famous for providing everything from nails to birthday candles -- with food and drink and staples at the ready. The road to Carter's Camp and the nearby Fire Hall, photographed Sunday. I was asked to emcee the event, at Nye Fire Hall.  A host of volunteers engineered the lively evening, with Penny Keogh spearheading the effort to honor the longtime community pillars. People visited and reminisced, enjoyed a bountiful potluck, and celebrated the passing of the gauntlet from one couple to another. The new owners made a brief appearance, acknowledging the long shadow into which they walk as the Hendersons pack up decades of memories and head out. Nye Fire Hall, photographed at twilight, as the cars began to pull out. Through my 20-plus years on the West Fork of the Stillwater, my family has enjoyed shopping at "Nye Mall." It was there my sister Misha bought worms to catch her first fish!  Countless times, we zipped to the store for a can of pineapple, a half-gallon of ice cream, cake decorations, a pound of hamburger and pickles, milk for a baby, dog food, even foam to drive nesting hornets from the eaves. Countless quick tanks of gas! What a gift to have this treasure trove just "down the road." And always with a cheery greeting and a cat or dog to keep Judy company.  Here, at request, is the poem I wrote to pay homage:  Misha Minesinger's worms -- purchased at Nye Trading Post -- hooked this trout on her first try! (Catch/release.)                                                              ODE TO NYE MALL AND  ITS DEVOTED OWNERS,  Folks came from miles around to enjoy a meal and thank Bill and Judy. THE HENDERSONS  "There once from Detroit came a pair: Bill and Judy in search of fresh air A place in the quiet, away from race riots. A small store they filled with their wares. Through the years, Nye Mall’s been legendary Because of the wonders they carry, In need of some diapers?  Perhaps windshield wipers. They’ll have it, or order, not tarry. As I look around at their shelves, I’m certain these landlords are elves Through the years, what I’ve bought, it’s a wonderful lot! A true work of art from themselves. The cooler’s my favorite addition Walk in -- milk, cheese, beer in position; Goods are tidied each day, but besides the array, Cures hot flashes and other conditions. Nye Trading Post, aka "Nye Mall," is an institution in the small town. Need some dog food, some Triscuits or ice cream? Maybe fancy some biscuits or sun screen? Pop into their store, there you’ll see “more is more” Even unplug your john, get your bowl clean! On our list Bill and Judy are tops For stocking odd items like mops Worms for fishing, you betcha?  Can’t stump them, they’ll getya. Even ordered our workers Shock Top. “Should I call them?” you  think “maybe not.” Volunteers arranged a bountiful supper of casseroles, meats, and more as Bill and Judy Henderson bid farewell to the Stillwater Valley, below. What you need they most surely ain’t got. But you’re wrong, they’ve got jello, red wine and marshmallows By friends here, they ne’er be “forgot.” One more thing now, the critters they’ve saved. “Way too many,” Bill sometimes would rave. They’ve a penchant for cats, there’s one now, as you chat -- And a doggie named Duchess, so brave. Now we’re sad that they’re going away But we notice we’ve turned their hair grey. So a toast, raise a glass, job well done, lord and lass. We salute you, good luck, happy days!"                                       The West Fork and Stillwater Valley won’t be the same without Bill and Judy.  Cookie and Keller and their Yorkies,  Nick and Nora, are among their admirers and grateful friends in Montana and the greater world! Safe travels, Bill and Judy. We'll hold you in our hearts. Cookie entertains at Montana Jack's piano bar, here Saturday night with Rex Anderson, Absarokee veterinarian, who plays whistles and flutes. Cookie's at Jack's Aug. 31 WE'LL BE BACK here at the blog and website, to our regular Wednesday and weekend posts at: www.whereiscookie.com Here, we provide lively commentary and pretty photos of world travels and happenings in our two bases, the Beartooths of Montana and San Diego. We promise a sense of fun as we navigate the globe. Tell your friends and check us out for a novel approach to life, taking time to explore, learn and live. Wednesday's post takes a close-up look at another Beartooth institution, Montana Jack's, where Cookie plays piano, locals sit in to jam, and the food is world class! Check us out Wednesday and please share today's link with friends of "Nye Mall."

ENTERPRISING COUPLE OFFERS PEACE, WHOLESOME FOOD IN GORGEOUS SETTING The pristine wilderness area of the Hunter Peak Ranch is a delightful respite from the ravages of contemporary life.    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Over supper, Louie told of a bear chasing a grasshopper.  The bear danced, the hopper escaped.  His stories are part of the fun of a stay at Hunter Peak. IF YOU want a get-away with room service, plenty of activity, and five-star spa treatment, Hunter Peak Ranch is not the place for you. Cookie enters the spacious accommodation at Hunter Peak. But if you desire serenity in a sublime setting, tasty home cooking, hiking out the door, wildlife out the window, and friendly folk when you want company,  Hunter Peak Ranch is tailor made for you! The proprietors are characters! Louis ("Louie") and Shelley Cary are hardworking, down-home people with an obvious love of the land and what they do. Autumn is in the air! Bees make the most and there's snow on peaks near Hunter. Louie was raised on the property, which has been in the family since the 1930s. Shelley came on board in 1969 and they raised a family here. Named for the spectacular peak, the ranch is nestled beneath the mountains on the Clarks Fork River in the Shoshone. A corral houses horses and pack animals, with bear-proof garbage cans. Imagine this picturesque scene years ago, when only a dirt road connected the ranch to Cody. "It took four or more hours to get there," Louie recalls, "and mail delivery came only once a week." WE CHOSE a two-day retreat at this laid back Wyoming spot because we were tired. Nearing the end of an arduous remodeling project, we longed for a quiet place, surrounded by beauty. Friends recommended Hunter Peak. It was perfect. Louie and Shelley are the third generation to operate the ranch, and pride themselves in their old-fashioned work ethic and sense of hospitality. Cookie, Nick and Nora enjoy the dog-friendly digs. There's a corral with horses and donkeys, neat stacks of fire wood everywhere, and trails to take you across the road or by the river. Louie cleared and leveled a road while we were there. Five minutes from our cabin, this lovely scene awaited! The couple -- Louis and Shelley -- manage the guest ranch to honor the tradition established through the generations: a friendly welcome, good food, pretty environment. Suites and rooms are named after the nearby mountains. "We're not babysitters," Shelley told me. "We want people to be self starters, but we're around if need be." THE ROOMS  range from  a grouping of bunkhouse-type cabins (where we stayed, because they are pet friendly), to individual cabins near the water, some with fireplaces.  If we return, we'd love to stay in one of those because having a private fireplace would have been icing on the tasty cake! The scenery was called "a celestial paradise" by one writer, and it truly is. Shelley and Louie Cary. After a torrential rain, complete with rainbows, Louie leveled the road early the next morning.  WE FOUND  our cabin comfy and roomy, with a kitchen suitable for fixing meals. We prepared a supper and breakfast here and enjoyed a meal with the Carys another evening. The food was wonderful: steaks cooked to order, quinoa side dish, fruit salad, homemade rolls and a delicious peach and pear pie baked by Shelley that afternoon.  Rates range from $150 a night to a couple thousand a week for the larger cabins which accommodate up to 10 or 12. THERE ARE  pet friendly rooms! As mentioned, this is a must for us! Keller enjoys a wade in the waters near our cabin at Hunter Peak Ranch. The place attracts a mixed clientele -- from Europeans in love with the mountains and hiking, to American and Canadian tourists in search of change and dramatic scenery. During our stay, we met neighboring summer people from Santa Barbara and Ashland, Oregon, and visited with a family spending several days at the ranch, and a three-generation group from Nebraska.  All of us enjoyed the dazzling peaks and lush mountain valleys northwest Wyoming provides. THE BEAUTIFUL  Chief Joseph Scenic Highway gets you there, or you can do what we did, weather permitting:  go in via the spectacular Beartooth Pass out of Red Lodge, and you'll drop into the valley and Hunter Peak Ranch, just a few miles away. Then we went home to the Beartooths through Chief Joseph, stopping at the much photographed bridge to enjoy a picnic. To book, call 307 587-3711.  Or go to www.hunterpeakranch.com To our delight, there is no cell service in the area, but you may use a calling card on the ranch phone for emergencies. COMING UP:  Why we enjoy "road tripping." The joys of short and long car journeys together. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Mama Mia!  Monuments,  cathedrals, fine food, cheap wine, friendly folk, gorgeous scenery....now that's Italian via Tuscany! Bruce Keller at Pisa, enjoying a light rain to make the place glisten! (who cares if the bathroom is tiny?) STORY By  CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Tuscany's unique green countryside.     Tuscany has something for all.   IF YOU CAN'T agree on a vacation destination -- one person wants scenery, another great food and wine, another monuments and history -- give Tuscany a try. It's "one stop shopping" in the tourist lexicon, where all the major wants, desires and yearnings can be satisfied no matter how diverse the group, or how different a couple's tastes. Many easy day trips can take you from the Chianti region to ancient wonders. From the glories of Renaissance Firenze (that's Florence in English), with its glut of of artistic treasures, to the golden landscape and hilltop towns of the Tuscan countryside, Tuscany is a wonder. Gaze at the beautiful cypress and terraces of the Chianti and Montepulciano vineyards, stroll through Pisa and investigate its famous Leaning Tower. Rent a car and drive south to lovely Siena with its scallop-shaped piazza. TRY SOME  squid and pasta in tomato sauce -- you can smell the basil, garlic and oregano blocks away from the restaurant. Cookie and Keller had morning caffe for less than five Euros in Greve! Stop in to some of the galleries and see why this region has fed the imagination and delighted the senses of countless visitors for many years. For several years, we rented a villa in Chianti near the alluring market town of Greve. Each day, we set off from our 12th Century digs, to explore the countryside with its beautifully restored farmhouses and inviting tiny villages. Greve is a picturesque Tuscan town, with wonderful rentals, inviting piazzas and dozens of fine, reasonably priced cafes.  WE'D FIND  a new cathedral or small museum to while away a couple morning hours, then have lunch at a new restaurant -- always with a half-carafe of the house wine -- about 3 Euros, or $5 and always delicious. The coffee in this part of the world is also delicious -- small jump-charging "piccolo caffe nero" was my favorite morning wake-up, but the grande caffe con panna was Keller's favorite, warm cream in black coffee and yummy with a couple sugars. Squid in tomato sauce over a small bed of linguini (not much! The chef let the squid and tomatoes be the stars!) A Tuscan taste treat. GREVE IS  well known to Italians as the market town of the Chianti Classico wine zone.  It's occupies a lovely cypress covered niche in the hilly region between Florence and Sienna. We liked Chianti because of the reasonably priced villa, the privacy of our own digs with a small but adequate kitchen, and the opportunity to explore. Besides quick drives into Greve, we took day trips to Florence, Siena, Lucca and Pisa. THE OFFERINGS Add caption   of places to stay range from single rooms to lavish apartments, rustic or luxurious farm houses, and villas fit for a prince. Our villa was redone with terracotta tiled floors and beamed ceilings, furnished in country style with authentic antiques and fine copies of paintings by the Italian masters: Giotto, Botticelli, Donatello, Masaccio, Fra Angelico, Piero Della and more. You can visit a different cathedral, plaza, museum, cafe each day, and Tuscans like to mark their monuments and statues with plaques and dates. Our bathroom gave us plenty of laughs -- there was no indoor plumbing 800 years ago -- and the kitchen was tiny, improvised from the day when kitchens were located in separate buildings. We had access to a large, modern swimming pool and a perfect view of vineyards and cypress trees for relaxing, Scrabble, drinking wine and reading. MANY OF  our friends claim to pay less for villas than for modest hotels -- figuring two or three couples, each with a private bedroom.  So consider this option if you're traveling with others. We dined like kings and queens and if we returned to a restaurant, it wasn't for lack of choice.  It was because we loved the food. The most memorable meal -- the aforementioned sauteed squid and garlic in a tomato sauce over just a little linguini! Pam and Kitsy ham it up in their vintage hats, at the Nye Firehall, where exercise took a time out.                                                                COMING UP :  A Mad Hatter party at the Nye Firehall, honoring the exercise class in which Cookie participates. Those alluring California coastal hotels, romantic travel by train, a couple lazy days in Red Lodge, two-stepping out at the Cowboy Bar in Fishtail, a trip to exciting Barcelona. For fun, frolic and off-the-track enticements,  visit us Wednesdays and weekends at:  www.whereiscookie.com And remember to explore, learn and live!

Jack and Ann Mowell, right, contributed\ money, class and enthusiasm into putting Montana Jacks on the map!    JACKS'S DELIVERS GOOD TIMES! COOKIE HITS THE 88s -- WITH SHOW TUNES, RAGTIME, SING-ALONGS; SRO CROWDS ENJOY FINE FOOD & DRINK!  Gena Burghoff and Chris Lockhart team up at Jack's. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "I CAN'T BELIEVE  I'm sitting in the middle of the wilderness, in Dean, Montana, listening to fabulous live music, sipping vintage wine and dining like a queen. I could be in  Manhattan!" Pianist Christene Meyers plays at Jack's again Labor Day Eve, Sunday, Aug. 31.  Chef Chris Lockhart's talents are honed in his English background and world travels. The recent New York visitor was among grateful diners and listeners at Montana Jack's this weekend, while Cookie took to the keyboard for two evenings of piano tunes.  Hostess and manager Gena Burghoff, and her husband, English born chef Chris Lockhart, are at the heart of Montana Jack's success.  Her genteel manner and efficient running of the operation complements his wizardry in the kitchen to make diners feel satisfied and pampered. A handsome lab enjoys the view, too, at Montana Jack's. JACK'S OWNER , international entrepreneur Jack Mowell, rescued the historic restaurant a few years ago, dipping deep into his pockets for extensive renovation. He hired a fine staff to carry out his goals. Burghoff and Lockhart, who enjoy world travel, clicked with the beautiful Stillwater Valley and its eclectic residents. They recently purchased a home near the eatery, to enjoy the scenery when they're not working the Jack's crowds. FABULOUS VIEWS and superb food and drink make Jack's a visual and culinary pleasure. Both chef and manager capitalize on the eatery's strong suits -- natural and man made. Rex Anderson, left, plays an improvisational set while Cookie (aka Christene Meyers) accompanies on piano. THE TWO  are proud that their artfully presented meals are made from scratch, using mostly local ingredients. "We pride ourselves in creating fun new dishes, and giving prompt and friendly service," says Gena, whose sharp eye for a good waiter has recruited personnel from New York and even other continents. Montana Jack's offers a nightly "amuse bouche," (French for "treat your mouth"), a gift from the chefs to delight the taste buds. BURGHOFF  is known for her gracious greeting of guests, her attentive service, and management capabilities. Lockhart, who stays mostly in the kitchen, clearly enjoys his backstage job. They started out their business partnership with a food cart in Red Lodge, The Local Yokel. Gena Burthoff with her parents. Besides her Red Lodge mum, & Florida dad (Gary Burghoff's Radar O'Reilly from M*A*S*H)  Jack's menu expanded the "Yokel" concept, serving sliders, tasty specials and sides. Brunch specials range from seafood roll with tarragon mayonnaise, to English breakfast complete with mushrooms and beans.  My favorites, though, are the dinner appetizers -- a gorgeous foie gras with fig syrup, terrific salmon with buckwheat blini, tasty smoked trout salad with peaches.  Recent house guests raved about the 14-ounce ribeye with a skillet of blue-cheese creamed potatoes. Succulent lamb chops are served with mint and lemon quinoa, and the sea bass is melt-in-mouth, with kale, fennel and tiny Parisian potatoes. Desserts change daily, including divine berry ice creams and a crusty creme brule. JACK'S IS  a treasure.  Let's continue to invest in it -- and reap the tasty, tuneful rewards! Hunter Peak Lodge between Red Lodge and Cody offers a special get-away. COMING UP:   We're heading to Sunlight Basin outside of Cody, and a new discovery: Hunter Peak Lodge in the wilderness. Elk out the window and bear stories over home-cooking.  Plus an all-female "Two Gentlemen of Verona" at the world famous Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Plus more on and off-road fun from California to southern Europe as we continue to have fun in well known and offbeat places. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com