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A HOTEL WITH HEART, AMBIANCE, SOCIAL CONSCIENCE, TOP-NOTCH SERVICE The Pan Pacific Hotel's appointments are artful and Asian inspired, creating an atmosphere both soothing and stimulating.  Above, a view from the 10th floor elevator and at right, the tastefully decorated lobby. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THROUGH MY  years of travel, I've developed two hotel ratings lists --  "top ten" and "ten worst." It changes with new finds -- sublime inns and guest houses that do everything right. Then there are the occasional stinkers. Today, a find! A real treasure. A RECENT  visit to Seattle's seductive Pan Pacific has me adjusting my list.  Either Pan Pacific will replace one of the other outstanding discoveries, or my list will grow from Every staff member exhibits personality and concern for the guest, here Ryan Crosby greets Cookie at the hotel's entrance. Above left, the attractive neighborhood include community minded  philanthropies, such as the Bill and Melinda  Gates Foundation. Upscale restaurants,   Nordstrom's flagship, galleries amd boutiques are also near Pan Pacific.   "top ten" to "elegant eleven." Here's why: * PAN PACIFIC  looks beautiful and welcoming -- with tasteful contemporary art, live plants and pride in service!  A pretty outdoor dining and relaxing area beckons as a staff member welcomes you. The Pan Pacific specializes in personalized service, the kind well heeled businessmen and world travelers are  Pan Pacific's ice chests are attractive wooden containers. accustomed to.  The staff conveys an authentic interest in the guest. From the moment we were picked up by Jason and the courtesy limo, to our departure a few days later, we felt pampered, cared about and part of the Pan Pacific family.  The front desk manager wished us safe travels as he escorted us to our car. * GUEST ROOMS  are spacious and handsomely decorated, with thought to relaxing colors and fabric, top technology and an artistic Asian American flair.  Because Pan Pacific Hotel and Resorts spans the Pacific Rim, the elegant chain showcases the art of that vast region from North America's west coast across Asia to the coastlines of Australia.  My first Pan Pacific stay was in Singapore years ago, and I was reminded in its Seattle property of the many genteel touches. (Ice for the rooms is stored in an attractive wooden chest, looking like a piece of furniture.) Some of the Pan Pacific's spacious suites have telescopes. * PAN PACIFIC  Hotel Seattle offers spectacular views including one of the attractive Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, the star of the progressive neighborhood.  We gazed at the Space Needle from sunrise coffee to sunset cocktails, relishing Seattle's gorgeous skyline with its multi-hued colors.  Located at 2200 Westlake Plaza, it's a superb location.  We walked a few steps to Whole Foods for wine and cheese. Nordstrom's (the flagship store), a fun deli, boutiques and a couple fun bars are within strolling distance.  We enjoyed a brisk and refreshing 20-minute walk to the pier to catch the ferry to  Seattle's colorful waterfront is near --  a few blocks of pleasant strolling. Bainbridge.  The property is only 20 auto minutes from Seattle Tacoma International Airport, and a few blocks from Seattle's efficient and much used high speed train, which travels to the airport in a speedy half hour. * THIS IS A hotel with a social conscience.  Seattle's Pan Pacific recycles gently used soaps and toiletries to a nearby women's shelter, observes the "use your towel again" green rule and donates "unpresented" excess food from the catering department to Seattle's hungry, through projects and shelters.  The energy efficient Pan Pacific has a "Social Responsibility Committee" whose thrust is "giving back to the community."  The property's savvy community relations manager Ryan Crosby says the operation is both civic minded and eco-friendly top to bottom -- even the building's shell and core were made from recycled materials. A fitness center, complete spa and whirlpool await. * PAN PACIFIC  is a well mannered inn. The staff is enlightened and gracious at every turn. The concierge mailed an art poster home for us, and made arrangements for a harbor cruise. The porter fetched us ice and brought a morning paper without our asking when he delivered our bags. It's obvious the staff enjoys its work and makes easy connections with guests.  Our drivers, concierge and waiters were personable, articulate and courteous, as was everyone we encountered. What an impression this makes. * AMENITIES , activities abound at Pan Pacific.  We happened to hit the Tuesday night wine tasting, when Pan Pacific invites vintners to set up shop and share their wares.  Locals and tourists mingled to sample both Washington and French wines near the fireplace.  Fun! We loved our room's Shoji screen doors, high-speed wireless, 42-inch flat screen TV and European soaking tub, added in a massive 2011 renovation. The state-of-the-art coffee maker actually steams the water, allowing for delicious coffee and tea in your robe and slippers, also provided at Pan Pacific.  Pan Pacific's pretty, eco-friendly bathrooms feature compact flourescent lighting, dual flush toilets, low-flow shower heads and deep soaking tubs. *  PHYSICAL COMFORTS  lure guests.  A luxurious, upscale Vida Spa features 18 treatment rooms and every manner of engaging body and mind-nurturing offering.  A spacious fitness center tempted us, but we were having too much fun. Still, it's a must for long trips or the frequent business traveler, and several businessmen and women were working out in the 4,200 square foot facility, which is steps away from the lovely spa. Whirlpools and dry saunas are at your fingertips, too. * IF YOU  don't want to leave Pan Pacific, you don't have to.  The hotel offers 24-hour room service and a fabulous breakfast menu.  Our waiter, a native of Thailand, was gracious and accommodating and the The Pan Pacific's spacious rooms are elegant, comfy.  salmon omelettes, muffins and eggs Benedict were beautifully presented. The hotel's Seastar Restaurant and Raw Bar are award-winning. * BRING YOUR  pup! Hooray for Pan Pacific for devoting part of its splendid space to dog friendly digs.  Increasingly, the best hotels are doing this, and we met several friendly pups during our stay.  We promised our new friends we'd return with our beloved Yorkies, Nick and Nora.  Turns out the restaurant manager has Yorkies, too:  hers are Sophie and Annabel! * SPECIAL SPLURGE . If you really want to pamper yourself, Pan Pacific will tailor a wine tasting so you may select wines to accompany your meal (en suite or in the lovely restaurant.) Seastar's acclaimed Chef and owner John Howie, is hands on Seattle's acclaimed Space Needle may be seen from many parts of the hotel. with an international  menu that features fresh local ingredients, inspired seafood and meat offerings (the herbed halibut, melt-in-mouth tenderloin and spicy ahi are divine). Howie's global preparations are delivered with precision and flair. YOU MAY also sample tasty sushi, sashimi, ceviche, poke and freshly shucked oysters. Or if you wish to go light, try a tasty club sandwich, crisp and tangy Caesar salad or thick creamy soup. We celebrated Keller's birthday, toasting the Space Needle and our wish to return to this perfect property soon! For rates and reservations, email: ofcourse@panpacific.com or go to www.panpacificseattle www.panpacific.reservation counter.com 2125 Terry Avenue, Seattle, Wash., 98121. 1 800 992-2694. COMING UP:  Take a train ride into the wilds of Alaska, on Skagway's White Pass and Yukon Railway. Then join Cookie and Keller to mark "Cruise 100" -- with a tour of the Carnival Miracle bridge escorted by Captain Luca Lazzarino! Oh, yes, and a zillion-calorie cake is enjoyed by all! Plus a tribute to our beloved, adopted "Papa," Grady Martin, who turns 90 on Sept. 26. How did he manage life's ups and downs -- "mostly ups," he says.  The piece will post on his birthday eve, Sept. 25. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check out our Wednesday and Saturday posts at www.whereiscookie.com

Some of the world's most rugged terrain challenged engineers who built this trestle on the steep hillside. RUGGED RAIL RIDE TAKES TRAVELERS INTO ALASKA'S SPECTACULAR GOLD RUSH TERRAIN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS White Pass and Yukon conductors bring the train home from the hills. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT'S DIFFICULT  to imagine our forefathers blasting a train track through the granite rock of Alaska's spectacular White Pass in the winter freeze of minus 60 degrees. But they did! We followed in their footsteps -- the easy way.  With binoculars and bottled water, not pick-axes, dynamite and hungry horses. We recently answered the "all aboard" call to ride the spectacular iron trail outside Skagway. DEPARTING  Carnival's Miracle, we walked just steps to the convenient platform of the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, a daring endeavor of the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. Travelers are all eyes as the train offers stunning views on both sides. Built through some of the world's most rugged and spectacular terrain, the narrow gauge railway is still in operation, using old-fashioned parlor cars much like the originals. A narrated train journey takes travelers deep  into Yukon territory. As we left colorful Skagway behind, we climbed a steep grade past gorgeous falls, gulches, canyons and riverbeds, heading to White Pass Summit which is the international boundary between the U.S. and Canada. We'd taken a self-guided walking tour of Skagway earlier, to enjoy the dog sled and whale whaling lore, and admire the Skagway Street Car and signature yellow buses.  We also visited the Keller poses in downtown Skagway where historic rail cars are on show and visitors can walk or shuttle to ships. world famous Red Onion Saloon's Brothel Museum -- every gold rush needs ladies of the evening. Keller passed on a good time girl and instead took a look at the steam engine and a gold panning exhibit.  Teddy Roosevelt visited Skagway, named for the Tlingit word, "skagua" meaning "windy place." The pretty little town is famous for sled dogs, gardens, glassware and for being the childhood home of Sarah Palin! ("Can you see Russia?" our guide joked! "Sarah says it's right over there.") Scenic rail trip aboard the historic White Pass and Yukon Route Railway offers a chance to step outside the car as did this passenger and Cookie, left. AFTER OUR nifty morning Skagway grounding, we boarded our White Pass car, made ourselves comfy, gazed and listened. A lively commentary described the building of this legendary railroad and the brave men who cut grade on Tunnel Mountain and other foreboding hills to accommodate the frenzied gold miners. THE HISTORY  dates to 1896 when George Carmack and two Indian companions, Skookum Jim and Dawson Charlie, found a few flakes in Bonanza Creek in the Klondike.  Although their discovery barely filled the spent cartridge of a Winchester rifle, it triggered a stampede for riches.  The Klondike gold Rush was on. A detail of the massive snow plow used by the train in winter. Our knowledgeable guide didn't sugarcoat this colorful episode in history.  It had its tragic side. More than 30 men were killed during the building of 110 miles of track and many horses and pack animals plunged to their deaths or starved. NOT ALL miners thought to bring proper horse feed or treat their faithful pack animals with care. Some of the work took place in dead of winter when heavy snows blocked the 16-degree turns and temperatures plunged to 60 degrees below zero. Skagway disappears as the train heads up the mountain. Amazingly, the rugged railway's construction was swift.  It began in May of 1898 and continued through a daunting winter. Workers reached the Summit of White Pass in February of 1899. THE INTERNATIONAL effort cost $10 million, a collaborative effort combining British financing, American engineering and Canadian contracting.  More than 10,000 men and 450 tons of explosives overcame climate and geography. The miracle of steel, timber and ingenuity was designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994, sharing the honor with the Eiffel Tower, Statue of Liberty and Panama Canal. Views from the train are dramatic -- here jagged mountain peaks afar. CHIEF VISIONARY  behind the project, many believe, was Skagway founder, Captain William Moore.  He predicted a gold rush and built a sawmill and wharf and helped blaze the trail to the Summit of White Pass, named for the Canadian minister of the interior, Sir Thomas White. Today's visitors don't have to worry about tumbling off a rocky cliff, losing a horse to starvation or suffering hunger and thirst themselves. Dense old growth pine forests flank Skagway River.  THE GREEN  and yellow White Pass rail fleet includes 20 diesel-electric locomotives, 82 restored replica passenger coaches and two steam locomotives.  An ongoing modernization program keeps the fleet in tip-top condition, for it is one of Skagway's favorite tourist pursuits. We enjoyed the cars' names -- they're all christened after lakes and rivers in Alaska, Yukon and British Columbia.  Most are at least 40 years old.  Lake Tutshi, vintage 1893, which starred in the 1935 movie, "Diamond Jim Brady," or Lake Lebarge, which carried Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip on the same trek we took -- back in 1959. The oldest car is Lake Emerald, built in 1883 and still traveling the line. Picturesque Skagway is home to sled dogs and mushers, beer makers, glass blowers, fishermen and wood carvers. We learned from our guide that there are actual  foot trails, including Chilkoot, leading  to the interior lake country where stampeeders began their 550-mile journey to the Yukon River and gold fields.  Both the railroad's White Pass route, and the Chilkoot Trail are filled with hazards. Various enterprising people tried to cash in on the miners, including George Brackett, a one-time construction engineer who built a 12- mile toll road up White Pass canyon. So long, Skagway, as the White Pass train returns,  from its rugged and scenic ride. ANGRY MINERS  tossed the toll gates down a ravine and his road was a failure. Brackett made out well, eventually, when White Pass and Yukon Railroad Company organized and paid him $110,000 for the a right-of-way. Along our return route, back towards Skagway with its quaint pastel buildings, we took a last look at the Sawtooth Mountains and admired the bright colored flora: golden arnica, pink fireweed, purple monkshood, scarlet columbine, lavender geranium, white yarrow and the deep red berries of the mountain ash. Skagway is not to be missed. History, spectacular scenery and a rail ride that some consider the world's most scenic. Carnival Miracle awaits our travelers as Cookie continues her 100th cruise. More on that is coming....   Coming Wednesday: Happy birthday tribute to 'Papa' Grady Martin, 90 soon, here with Nick on the West Fork.  COMING NEXT: A salute to "Papa," our Montana neighbor Grady Martin, who will be 90 next week! Then join Cookie and Keller on a landmark "100th cruise" celebration, with reflections on Cookie's global cruising -- from barging and wine tasting in the French countryside, to canal tulip cruises in Holland, Atlantic crossings on  the venerable Queen Elizabeth II, lazing in the Mediterranean and Greek Isles and transiting the Panama Canal. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out  weekly at:                                                           www.whereiscookie.com

The harbor at Avalon, the major village in Catalina, is a colorful place to park your boat. California island offers restful, scenic time out-- the tune that made it famous lives on! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  " Twenty six miles across the sea, Santa Catalina is awaitin' for me, Santa Catalina, the island of romance, romance, romance, romance." Set sail for easy-going Catalina and you won't be sorry.      THE FOUR PREPS'  hit song of 1957 was inspired by singer Bruce Belland's teenage affection for Santa Catalina and spring baseball training. Living through a chilly Chicago winter as a kid, he was mesmerized by  newsreels of his beloved Chicago Cubs practicing under the swaying palms of a place he longed to visit. Many years later, the song came to him.  He was recovering from a broken limb and still fantasizing about "the island of romance, romance, romance." HIS SONG  made him -- and the island -- famous, inspiring Jimmy Buffet and many other singers with its comforting, tropical tone. Relaxation seekers board a Point Dana boat for Catalina. The pretty little island is only 21 miles long and eight miles wide, and the principal town is the picturesque Avalon, on Catalina's southeast corner. The smaller settlement of Two Harbors is on the other end, at Catalina's isthmus, northwest end. IT'S ACTUALLY  closer to 80 miles from San Diego, but whether you sail from Los Angeles, or farther south, be prepared for a beautiful look at the sea and a charming experience once you're there. You can reach Catalina by sea or air and crossing time by boat ranges from an hour or 90 minutes, to eight or 10 hours, depending from where you depart, and by what mode of transportation. You can go by sea or air and the Catalina Express is the most popular mode of transportation, departing from Dana Point, a lovely coastal town between San Diego and Los Angeles. Catalina's town of Avalon is tucked against the hills.  Many people take their private boats between the mainland and the island, which was likely settled about 2,500 years ago by the Gabrielino Indians. Historians believe they came there centuries ago, as early as 5000 B.C. Europeans didn't discover it until 1542, about 50 years after Columbus, when Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo found it during his quest for the mythical passage between the Atlantic and Pacific. "Water all around it everywhere  Tropical trees and the salty air  But for me the thing that's a-waitin' there -- romance" Young people from the mainland enjoy a weekend Catalina get-away. Today,Catalina is a get-away for families and couples.  It's pace is slower than the mainland's, and it's much closer than Hawaii, with several nice hotels and B&Bs, and a half-dozen or more excellent restaurants, ranging from nautical-themed pizza and chicken joints, to cocktail lounges, to steak and seafood places, and Italian complete with homemade pesto and extensive seafood and veal entrees. AS THE  song suggests, it is romantic, with fine beaches, inviting tennis courts, and places to hike, camp, golf and deep-sea fish. Bikes can be rented and everyone who lives there gets around in golf carts, helping maintain balance in the fragile environment. Cars are mostly not allowed on most of Catalina, so the locals and visitors use gold carts primarily. There is also a variety of adventure, undersea and glass-bottom boat options developed by Catalina Adventure Tours . IF YOU'RE  a history buff and are interested in steamships, you'll enjoy the Catalina Island Museum in Avalon, with its interactive exhibit chronicling the history of steamship transportation.  And our songwriting Mr. Belland would be happy to see that his beloved Chicago Cubs are immortalized in a part of the exhibi which focuses on their spring training. The William Wrigley family, of the chewing gum fortune, was responsible for much of the island's development as a resort and sport fishing paradise.  The Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Garden, two miles south of Avalon, honors Wrigley Jr., who was It's possible to truly get away in Catalina, especially off season! instrumental in the island's development and garden plans.  The beautiful garden features an extensive succulent collection. The Santa Catalina Island Conservancy helps preserve the island's native flora and fauna and now owns 88 per cent of the island. IT'S NOT  widely known, but it's a fact that bison inhabit Catalina, too. The Conservancy helps keep the herd to about 200 -- optimum for best survival -- down from the 400 that once grazed here. The bison history dates back to the 1920s when a half-dozen were brought here for a movie that was never made.  They've been in the news lately, because of a progressive birth control program introduced by the Conservancy, involving dart gun and effective birth control. " Forty kilometers in a leaky old boat  Any old thing that'll stay afloat  When we arrive we'll all promote romance, romance, romance, romance." This pretty building reflects the island's Mediterranean architecture.  TODAY's BOATS  are mostly yachts -- no leaks now -- and only tour buses and cars with permit stickers are allowed outside the Avalon area. If you want to see the bison, or go on a boat for fishing, snorkeling or pleasure, you'll need to go through Catalina Adventure Tours or Santa Catalina Island Company Discovery Tours. You can google the island for accommodations and find the range of hotels and eateries. The lovely Seacrest Inn, El Terado Terrace and Hotel Metropole caught our eyes while we were staying with friends.  The Catalina Courtyard Garden Wing has dog friendly digs in its pretty dozen A pelican stretches in the sun of Catalina Island. units.  Next time, we'll check that out with our Yorkies, Nick and Nora.  The Villa Portofino is on the ocean right in Avalon. And several smaller properties, including Hotel St. Lauren, MacRae and Atwater, look picturesque and welcoming, too. Check with the Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce and enjoy.  Just remember to "stay afloat" -- which you'll need to do in your pursuit of romance, romance, romance, romance! COMING SATURDAY : Next up, a two-part feature on Montana -- splendid in its summer glory. First, on Saturday, we spotlight a popular eatery in the little town of Dean.  Montana Jack's Bar and Grill and the Stillwater Saloon draw crowds in a rural setting with an "uptown" menu and eel to it.  Then we take a look next time at the splendors under the Big Sky.  Then we're on to a bit of history on the Alberta Bair Museum, the largest performing arts complex in the northern Rockies.   Remember to explore, learn and live. And keep reading us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Grady Martin poses in his wonderful summer garden at home on the Stillwater River. Widower rebounds after loss and 66 year marriage with gardening, travel, birds, dogs, friends STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HE'S 90  years old tomorrow, and he's the only thing between me and the orphanage. Grady savors a meal with Cookie and Keller at La Jolla   Shores Restaurant near their San Diego home. My sweet neighbor, Grady Martin, nicknamed "Papa" by me 18 years ago, is as American as apple pie. A self-made man, veteran, father, devoted husband for 66 years and my pal during my West Fork summers in Montana, Papa  traveled the world, returning to his adored Montana to build his retirement home in 1995. He became our family's cherished "grandfather figure," part of every celebration, reunion and memorial. When his wife Kathy passed away three summers ago, folks speculated that Papa might not make it. But after a couple difficult years and a bout with pneumonia, Papa is back in fine fettle and ready to celebrate his 90th. BORN IN  1923, he grew up in rural Florida, raised by his mother and grandmother.  He lost his only sibling, Jackie, at a young age. He says he never went hungry, but recalls eating "plenty of beans, biscuits and Grady and his brother  Jackie, circa 1928. veggies from our garden." Kathy and Grady with their  daughter Pam, circa 1945. "I was probably what we'd consider poor now," says Grady. "But I didn't know the difference.  Most everybody was in my boat. We kept cheerful, worked hard and didn't complain." In 1940, in his senior year of college, Grady won a 4-H trip to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania.  There he met the love of his life, a Billings, Montana, girl, Kathy Suiter.  "She was chosen for her cooking ability and I for farming," laughs Grady. "We went on all the tours together, holding hands in the bus." Nick and Nora with Papa in San Diego. AT THE END  of the conference, they promised to write. In those pre-World War II days, courting was by letter.  The two corresponded, and after a year of college at University of Florida, Grady traveled to Oregon to work for the Forest Service near Bend. Each was dating other people, "but we kept in touch," says Grady. They arranged -- all by letter -- for Grady to return to Florida via Montana. He took the bus to Billings where Kathy met him and ushered him home to meet her family. Cookie and "Papa" christen a wllow in Kathy's memory. "Then she decided to come visit me in Florida over Christmas," remembers Grady. In the shadow of Pearl Harbor, Kathy took the train.  "It wasn't long after she arrived that we decided to get married," says Grady. THE LONG marriage included Grady's World War II Army service in Europe.  Kathy wrote love letters.  Grady responded.  They had four children: Pam, Doug, Marty and Sean.  The three sons will be in Montana for the celebration.  Pam died in 1989.   Grady has achieved what few people do:  he's been retired longer than he worked, mostly at Grady & Cookie  share a sunset picnic over looking La Jolla Shores. Western Airlines (bought up by Delta, after Grady's retirement!) He and his family still travel on Delta and her partners, using "non-rev" or stand-by passes. It's a fitting perk for a guy who still loves travel. He worked the ticket counter in Billings, then Phoenix, and finally San Diego, all places dear to his heart. "Now, I am content to stay put," says Grady, surveying his handsome corn crop on the Stillwater's West Fork. Last year, he visited Keller and me at our town home in La Jolla. He twice crossed the Pacific to spend time with son Sean in Maui, where he and Kathy loved to vacation. Grady and Keller barbeque fresh trout on the "Stillwater Beach," below Grady's house. He also visited Phoenix friends, and made a couple trips to Seattle where his other sons have lived. Marty, a builder and handyman, recently moved to Montana and hopes to stay here to keep his dad company. DESPITE A low-grade leukemia that requires a monthly blood infusion, our Papa keeps fit -- walking, gardening, chopping wood, helping keep my lawn green and flowers watered when I'm cavorting. He still cranks up the barbecue and plays pinochle Monday nights, shows up at church occasionally, although he's an avowed agnostic. ("I'd say atheist but it makes people jumpy.") He is known for his kindness, amiable nature and appreciation of our environment. He even planted petunias and lilacs at Nye Post Office. Grady tucks into mussels, fish tacos and wine with Cookie and Keller at La Jolla Shores Restaurant. Since Kathy died (she called herself my "mountain Mama") Papa and I established a ritual of dining together several nights a week.  The evenings includes "Jeopardy," a glass of wine on his deck and lively conversation while I rustle us up a stir fry or pasta.  Often, Papa prepares salad with veggies from his garden, full circle to his childhood. Having lost both my parents now, my beloved Papa is a sounding board -- the compassionate, thoughtful elder we all need, no matter how old we are. PAPA FIGURES  his European travel is likely ended, and doesn't intend to reprise the skydiving escapade of his 75th birthday. Grady gives travel advice for Cookie's frequent commutes between Montana and California. But he has promised to come see us in San Diego in 2014, where we treat him to a mean fish taco. He's talking about next year's garden. He still loves to study maps, keeps the coffee pot on for pop-in guests, likes a glass of wine, fills his bird feeder, indulges in a cookie or two at the post office, and admires a Beartooth sunset. All good signs that he's here for awhile! "I'm one lucky guy," he says, gazing at the mountains which frame his home. So are we to know you, Papa. Love you, and happy, happy birthday! Cookie, Keller, Captain Lazzarino and officers. COMING UP : We celebrate my 100th cruise with pointers on cruising, a look at barge and large-ship travel, and a visit to the bridge with Captain Luca Lazzarino onboard Carnival's Miracle. We also look at Holland-America, Crystal, Celebrity, Oceania, Cunard and other favorite lines.  Then we continue our revels in Portugal and one of the country's most elegant hotels, Altis Belem, overlooking the Tagus River harbor. Remember to explore, learn and live. And check us out at: www.whereiscookie.com

Take a walk in a garden to cure what ails you Dahlias recall the photographer's childhood with his mother painting and arranging flowers and his dad growing them. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  Apples and sunflowers glisten in September sun. MY PARTNER and the photographer for our essays has a soft spot in his heart for flowers. No surprise. His mother, Jean, painted them -- lilies, tulips, chrysanthemums, daisies, the exotic orange bird of paradise and hummingbird-friendly fuschia. His dad, Bill, grew them -- roses mostly, and fruit trees including pomegranate. Keller has been taking photos of flowers since his bloom-loving parents gave him a Brownie box camera for his 10th birthday. AS A CHILD  then teen-ager, he took thousands of photos of flowers --  climbing around on the beaches of his home stomping grounds, near Oceanside, California, where the morning glories bloom in the sand and geraniums grow like weeds in street alleys and up hillsides. Now, during Montana get-aways, he is having a floral field day with the roses that are sharing their showy "hips," He's zooming in on cactus flowers, daisies, alyssum, hollyhocks and even thistle and catnip. Here in the northern Rockies, at High Chaparral, we have yarrow and honeysuckle, snapdragons and cosmos, zennias and the largest day lilies I've ever grown. High Chaparral in Montana provides a regal setting for flowers. I learned to sort cosmos  from my Irish gran, who taught me to carefully separate the petals from the seeds, and store them in a dry spot for planting next spring. She served up small, tasty floral lore, including the little known fact that alyssum, her favorite border flower, is a fragrant member of the mustard family. SO THIS  is an homage to the beauty of flowers and those who tend them, a salute to the world of blooms which surrounds us. I am thankful for their offerings: the rainbow's hues, the fragrance of nature's finest perfume. To flowers! To those seductive enticers of bees and hummingbirds -- and to the blooms which lured a couple of lucky kids with cameras into the wondrous world of gardens thousands of miles apart. A bee feasts on the daisy, which the writer considers one of her favorites. I'm thinking of my daisy loving gran, now. And the kid from southern California is remembering that first sight of his dad's deep red and coral roses. THE ONES  Keller most fondly remembers from his dad's garden are the succulent red roses.  He says they "dripped color" and that in the moist ocean air, their scent seasoned the entire house and patio. He doesn't remember precisely which one was his dad's favorite, but his rose "dictionary" runs the gamut of the alphabet, from  "Ain't She Sweet" and "Apricot Nectar" to "Beach Rose" and "Blast Off" to "Evening Star,"  "Double Delight,"  "Peace," "Penelope," and "Purple Puff."  He recalls "Sterling Silver" "Sundowner," "Timless," "Tora Tora,"  "Valentine" "Veteran's Honor." He remembers "Whisper," "Zephirine" and a gorgeous peach-colored rose, one his mother painted along with pink and yellow dahlia. She won a blue ribbon in floral arranging at the Del Mar Home and Garden Show in San Diego County. The writer invites the reader into her Montana garden and climbing roses. KELLER'S DAD knew which roses had few thorns, which were climbers, which tolerated mediocre soil, which bloomed all season, which were prone to mildew. At High Chap, we have climbing roses, which shoot their gorgeous deep pink blooms up a fence and onto a nearby cedar gate. The combination of running water fed from an ancient spring box, and the proliferation of rose blooms -- now entering their showy red "rose hip" stage -- attracts visitors. RECENTLY,  we've had deer -- a doe and her twin fawns -- several varieties of bees and wasps, robins, wrens, finches and sparrows, and a brazen stellar's jay, who sings his own  vocal "thank you" to me as I walk by. His dad's favorite roses, grown in southern California,  influenced photographer's love of all things floral. Now that autumn is approaching, the apples are ready for picking and their juices are attracting all kinds of bees and wasps.  Friends Laurie and The pretty prickly pear blossoms are prolific in Montana this year. John are watching the pups, Nick and Nora, while we're photographing whales and glaciers.  Recently, they picked apples with our mutual friends, Lana and Charles. Laurie reported this morning that it was lucky none of the six was stung, with the proliferation of insects and squished, oozing aples. We are excited at the prospects of "apple everything" -- Laurie's jelly is superb, Keller loves apple butter and I make a decent apple crisp and cobbler -- perhaps throwing in the last of the rhubarb which we've kept watered and producing all summer. Above, the day lilies of Montana are finishing their bloom, but wild flowers still abound, at left. Spring and autumn are my two favorite  "High Chaparral" seasons.  The air is crisp and clean, after most of the fires are subsided. The flowers' blooms are glorious as days shorten. Sunshine against the silhouette of the Beartooths is breathtaking homage to the floral bonanza. We may catch the last of the day lilies, russet against the gate.  The cactus will still be golden in the light on the trail above the house, and there may even be a few chrysanthemums beneath the yarrow. Seattle's signature Space Needle stands sentinel above Elliott Bay. COMING SOON:   Our travelers wend their way back to Big Sky Country after a glorious two weeks on the glaciers and whale trails of Alaska. They end their escapades with an Argosy boat trip from Puget Sound. Come with them through the locks into Lake Union, past the "Sleepless in Seattle" house boat and crab boats featured on TV's popular "Deadliest Catch." Read about their base, the stylish Pan Pacific Hotel, with its imposing view of the  harbor and Space Needle. Watch for Wednesday and Saturday posts and remember to explore, learn and live at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cruising's pleasures heightened by exilirating Alaskan adventure The wonders of Alaska unfold for Cookie, above, snug in her layers, enjoying the view from Carnival's Miracle. The captain's delicate maneuvering helps guests enjoy the wonders of the majestic Sawyer Glaciers, tiny islands, sea life and more.  Our appreciation and concern increased.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I STILL  feel a bit giddy. Call it an iceberg high. I've smoked my share of ganja and had a few nips too many, but I've never been as high as I was a few days ago, infused by nature's wonders and reveling in the thrill. My intoxicant? The stunning bluish icebergs of the Tracy Arm Fjord of Alaska. Glaciers in Tracy Arm are receding with each year, threatening wildlife. FROM OUR  veranda aboard the Carnival Miracle, we listened with astonishment to the ominous "white thunder" of immense spires of ice breaking from Sawyer Glacier. After they tumbled and crashed to the sea, we watched them melt leisurely into whimsical shapes -- horses, flowers, entire tableaux. From the earthquake-like cracks which startled us, the massive hunks of ice transformed to subtle, serene floating works of art. We witnessed the evolution of ice sculpture. And we had our environmental consciences tweaked. All in a few hours time. ENJOYING these magnificent sights and sounds would not have been possible without the luxury of a time-saving cruise. A cruise offers security, mobility, beautiful ports, no packing. They're affordable now, so consider cruising as a wonderfully safe and efficient way to move about the world, experiencing several ports in a week or two, enjoying their splendors without wasting precious time on packing and unpacking. ON THE Miracle, we entered Alaska's glacier area as children squealed with delight and adults gasped in awe. At one time, we counted 22 ice bergs of various sizes, with hundreds of cameras aimed at the spectacle. We'd layered up, as our savvy naturalist advised, with turtle-necks, sweaters, scarves, hats and jackets to transit the 30 miles of wonder in the world famous Tracy Arm Wilderness Area. WE WANDERED  from own stateroom to our private veranda, to the larger decks above and below, to change and enhance our views -- like sitting in various sections of a changing theater --  making certain Floating ice sculptures entrance cruise travelers to Alaska's fjord country.   we absorbed the entire  spectacle. In eight days of cruising, this unusual  "floating ice" orgy represented, for us, a tie for "most exhilarating day" -- the humpback whales were yet to come. While we would find an abundance of whales and sea lions, we were alarmed to see for ourselves the diminishing glaciers and ice fields. We renewed our memberships to conservation and preservation efforts, reminded of the fragility of the earth's balance and the importance of glaciers and water to sustaining marine life and preserving polar bears in particular. The sunsets aboard a ship at sea are hard to beat, here exiting Alaska's stunning Tracy Arm Wilderness Area .  A room with a view:  The brilliant aqua glacial melt. THE THRILL  of being close-up to a steep, snow-clad mountain rising up 7,000 feet from sea level, would satisfy most of us. Add to that the sound of cracking ice, the view of tons-heavy glaciers glinting in blue and pink light, splashing of tons of ice into the sea, then the melting "decorations," the ever-changing vistas as the ship made serpentine turns. ALL SPECTACULAR.   Ending with one of the prettiest sunsets we've seen. And we hadn't had a drop of chardonnay!                    * Captain Luca Lazzarino presents a surprised Cookie  with a "Miracle" cake created by the ship's chief chef: a  happy 100th cruise party with Keller and officers. COMING NEXT:  Our Alaska-Seattle adventure continues, with a segue to British Columbia. Join us for an exciting series of pieces: In Alaska we are aboard Carnival Miracle's, where captain Luca Lazzarino, honors Cookie on her 100th cruise. Cookie and Keller on the road to Alaska, ready for adventure. We find a friendly pod of seven humpback whales near Juneau, take a narrow-gauge rail trip to the White Pass summit, hunt for bears (with our cameras!) and end our revels in international style at the famous Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria, B.C., for a spot of tea, a sip of sherry and a spectacular view of the Parliament Buildings lit up at night. FINALLY ,  full circle back on the mainland, we savor Seattle for a cocktail sail on Far Niente yacht, take a discovery trip to the locks aboard Argosy's Good Time III, and delight in a beguilingly elegant hotel, Pan Pacific, with stunning service and views to match. The Space Needle shines in Seattle's sky, luring our travelers to linger. Remember to explore, learn and live. CHECK US OUT  Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Three distinctly different venues -- each with its strong suits and personality -- offer San Diego theater lovers a wealth of wonderful play-going. On tap are humor, emotion, revivals, romance, new work, classics,    comedy -- in works that challenge the status quo and offer enticing food for thought. In this lively theater town, it's possible to see almost a new play a week -- at least two or three per month -- beginning with the summer previews and extending through next spring. We begin with Cygnet. Like the old-fashioned poem for the bride's attire, Cygnet Theatre's new season has something old, something new, something borrowed, and, well, yes, something blue, if you count the sky framing the classic old red building that welcomes you to the heart of Old Town. (By intermission, you'll be star-gazing, but before opening curtain, it's a dazzling blue-sky-and-sun place to savor day's end.) Cygnet's recently opened patio offers a pleasant atmosphere before the play  or here during intermission of "Shakespeare's R&J," energetic and intriguing. Cygnet's eleventh season in its charming, intimate venue promises to "startle the soul and celebrate what makes us human," according to artistic director Sean Murray, also an accomplished actor. Start your theatrical adventure by sipping a cocktail or coffee on the spacious, newly opened patio. From an Oscar Wilde classic to a popular Christmas tradition, a Sondheim musical, Tom Stoppard extravaganza and Cygnet's popular holiday show, the line-up will entertain, stimulate and amuse. I can't wait for to see what Cygnet does with one of my favorite Sondheim works, "Company" opening July 5. A San Diego premiere, "Maple and Vine," sounds delightful, opening in January, a comic homage to the 1950s. We've seen a bonanza of spectacular productions at Cygnet, many of them with Murray either directing or starring.  From "Sweeney Todd" to "Cabaret," "Man  of LaMancha," "Private Lives" and recently "Assassins" and a contemporary take on "Romeo and Juliet," Cygnet delivers, and never disappoints. Consider Cygnet's theater tour to Dublin and London this autumn. Tour price of $4,495 includes air across the pond and between Dublin and London, eight nights in hotels, several dinners, six productions (three in each grand city) and visits to classic museums, theaters, cathedrals and a highlight trip to the original Old Globe. Why not? www.cygnettheatre.com or veronica@cygnettheatre.com for season tickets or to book the theater tour.      *   On the northwest side of town, at LaJolla Playhouse, it's time for experiments, new work and engaging treats for the play-passionate aficionado. La Jolla Playhouse is at once stately and contemporary, befitting its varied and wide-ranging new season. With both "Chaplin" and "Hands on a Hard Body" nominated for Tony Awards this year, San Diegans and arts patrons can proudly say: "we saw it here and we saw it first!" The LJP is justifiably proud of its exciting record: sending more shows to Broadway than any other venue. In our five years of being regulars here, we've met many sophisticated and well traveled fellow theater lovers. Because of this discerning and educated clientele, LJP is a fine proving ground to determine if a play might succeed on the Great White Way. The tradition of novelty and challenge continues at the gorgeous, state-of-the-art complex with the recently opened "His Girl Friday," in its west coast premiere.  , The vintage movie with Cary Grant and Rosalind Russell is one of my favorites, a fast-paced tale of reporters in 1939 Chicago. The production, directed by Christopher Ashley, promises romance, lively banter and "velocity, plenty of it," says Ashley, the Playhouse's artistic director. We'll be there next week to watch reporter Hildy Johnson go after one last scoop, breaking a big story, and falling in love again (with her ex-husband!) Sheer fun. "Tribes" takes a savage, funny look at family dynamics, a romantic tale with a twist as a young deaf man from a hearing family falls in love. The talented Moises Kaufman directs "The Tallest Tree in the Forest" in autumn, based on the life of famed vocalist-actor and controversial activist Paul Robeson. And there's more: "Sideways" is coming! Hooray. A favorite novel turned acclaimed movie weaves the story of male friendship, change, relationships and romance set in lovely Santa Barbara wine country. And "Sideshow" looks captivating -- the story of talented conjoined twins and the complexity of life for Daisy and Violet.  "The Who and The What" is another world premiere, exploring tradition and contemporary life. The playwright is award winner Ayad Akhtar. Tempted? Treat yourself and a pal. www.lajollaplayhouse.org Both seasons offer package deals. There's no better present to yourself or gift to a friend than theater! COMING WEDNESDAY:    San Diego Repertory Theatre's  Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival is in full and fun swing, with enthusiastic attendance in the Lyceum Theatre.  This week's fabulous staged reading about the life of activist Abbie Hoffman was written with tenderness and emotion by the gifted Herbert Siguenza, who also plays the lead in "Steal Heaven."  A klezmer summit is on tap this Monday featuring "Jews in Jazz" with renowned jazz cellist Fred Katz, now in his 90s and still going strong. Note: If you missed Siguenza's inspired "Steal Heaven" you have another chance Tuesday, June 11, at North Coast Repetory Theatre. This delightful, intimate venue recently presented a sold out "Odd Couple" and in the wings are "Leonard Nimoy's Vincent" about the life of Van Gogh, and A.R. Gurney's always moving "Love Letters.  www.northcoastrep.org Wednesday we'll preview SD Rep's new season where yet more treats await! www.sdrep.org Remember to explore, learn and live and check out our postings Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

Framed by the glitzy hotels of the world's greatest gambling city, Cookie and Keller enjoy a night out!  STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS BY WILLIAM KELLER I have a confession to make.   My name is Cookie and I love Las Vegas. I adore casinos. I've visited gorgeous ones in Monte Carlo, in London's Mayfair district, in the Dutch Antilles and Macau. The glitter of Las Vegas easily seduces me and I love playing my way up and down the strip -- from the Mirage to the Venetian, with sidetrips to Mandalay Bay, Paris,  Bellagio, New York, New York.  My game? Usually video poker. I like sitting in a glitzy casino sipping a coffee, cranberry or cocktail and taking my chances with lady luck. Looking forward to seeing Cher, Bette Midler or one of the variety shows. I love remembering the old circular Sands Hotel, and the greats I saw there: Sammy Davis Jr., Dean Martin, Debbie Reynolds, Frank Sinatra. I've introduced casino hotels to many members of my family and have had lots of fun on casino ships with my brother Rick and my late husbands, Bruce Meyers and Bill Jones.  Both Bruce and Billy were good blackjack players.  Bruce, in fact, paid for our tips and wine bill on an Atlantic crossing on the Queen Elizabeth II, with his blackjack wins.   Cookie held a single ace -- and got four! I prefer video poker. For some reason, the game attracts far more women than men. Perhaps we all love the symmetry of a straight, the cohesiveness of a flush, the delight in four aces and the thrill of that elusive big bopper of the video poker arcade:  the royal flush. I'm working on the "know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em" technique. And I'm improving. The time to cash in is when you're ahead (a large "duh" from the audience.)  Sometimes the timing is wrong, though.  If you win immediately when you arrive, for instance, that's not good. Now what are you going to do?  The MGM Grand's signature lions look out on the glorious Vegas strip. As Bugsey Siegel knew, gambling is time honored. Ah, Las Vegas.  As long as I'm not using the mortgage money or shortchanging the children (wait, I don't have children), I'm okay. And the Yorkies still have plenty of clothes. As I write this, we're nestled in a beautiful suite at Harrah's Rincon Casino Resort, a lovely property about ninety minutes from San Diego. It's close enough for an easy weekend drive, and yet not so near that we are tempted to visit every day. We love Las Vegas, but a quick trip there involves a plane ride. Two reasons we are loyal to Harrah's: Proximity to San Diego. And pups are welcome for a small charge.  Harrah's Rincon offers patio rooms with a mountain view. Rooms in the Garden Tower wing of this lovely landscaped resort are dog friendly, and the pups are greeted by a doggie fairy who delivers treats of biscuits, a designer bag for pick-ups, and a silver water bowl with a non-skid, non-stick bottom. Keller just stopped by the window of the Palomar Suite, enroute back after walking the doggies. Yes, I realize upgrades in casino hotels are not really "free" -- we've paid for them with our play. But Harrah's provides a reasonably priced get-away for us with breaks on the room with our Total Rewards points. Keller said the Yorkies made new friends on their stroll -- a bassett hound and an Australian shepherd, both accompanied by their owners, taking a break from the gaming action on the floor. We're planning a return to Las Vegas, where we can stay in Total Rewards sister properties involved in the collaboration. We're considering Caesar's, a favorite of mine for forty years with our favorite showroom. And we'll rack up more points towards our passage from "Gold" to "Diamond" status, which means we'll be eligible for more upgrades, more perks, more points.   Harrah's Rincon Casino Resort welcomes Nick and Nora. I get it that the more we play, the more we risk losing, and the more the casinos make.The casinos are flourishing. Harrah's Rincon is building a new tower! People will always spend money to take chances on winning. Perhaps the reason is the same one that explained why people in the Great Depression spent money on movies and treated themselves to a bite to eat. They wanted to have a little fun, to lighten their load. I really don't have much to lighten. Knock wood. Lights, lure of Las Vegas -- from the sky bridge connecting MGM Grand with New York, New York. I have a wonderful partner, a good life in two states, beloved Yorkies, a loving family, truly devoted friends, nature's beauty to greet me in both Montana and California, my native and adopted states. But I get a rush walking down the strip, gazing at the fake Eifel Tower, the skyline of a fake New York, the turrets of Excalibur, the majestic lions at MGM Grand, a recent favorite. And I'm at home here in Harrah's Palomar Suite, with two giant flat screen TVs, tasteful art, a couch big enough for my entire family and a bathroom big enough to hide in (with mirrors that tell me more about my face than I want to know.) Gotta go now. Time to register for my slot in a  Keller reviewing his four deuces says: "I've won and I've lost  while casino hopping with Cookie. Winning's better." tournament.  And Keller just hit the jackpot: four deuces and a win that will make a big dent in his next Montana ticket.  Hope springs eternal in the gambler's breast. COMING : The great theater town of San Diego boasts many gems, including Cygnet, located in Old Town. We take a look at the upcoming, adventurous season and check out wine tasting, too. Remember to explore, learn and live! And check our Wednesday and Saturday postings at: www.whereiscookie.com

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "Cap'n Cookie" takes the wheel. Whee! Keller, Cookie, Melody and Larry Cogsdill sail at Paradise Point and Harbor Yacht Club, popular get-aways for locals and tourists. WE'VE ALL heard the old joke about a boat owner's two most happy days. He was happy, of course, the day he bought the boat. And he was happy the day he sold it! Thousands of people, though -- including my partner -- love having their own boats and taking them out as often as possible. Or just hanging out in them for a pleasant afternoon, as we discover whenever we visit Paradise Point or Harbor Yacht Club for relaxing sails. AT PARADISE  Point, the place is always humming with activity -- jet skiing, boating and kayaking.  We enjoy the resort restaurant and all the fun activities the tropical atmosphere suggests, including fish-watching from the bridge. Sailing gives one time to smell the roses (and enjoy the sea lions), and we explore sailing and sea life in these blogs. "Ahoy, maties!" says Keller We usually rent a 27-foot sloop with our friends, Melody and Larry.  He, like Keller, grew up sailing -- so the two boys were at home manning the sails and we girls took a "supporting role," helping with the sheets and keeping the snacks coming. I get to be "Cap'n Cookie" for a few minutes, taking a brief turn at the helm, trying my best to keep us going straight.    Sure, there are plenty of women who "know the ropes" -- one of the fun bits of language we've borrowed from sailing. BUT WE  girls usually chose on a lovely spring day to simply enjoy the sail. I've been learning a lot lately about boats and yachts. The Sundancers, Classicos, Sport Cruisers,Voyagers, on and on. With the America's Cup coming to San Francisco July 4th, and the "wildly exciting" AC 72 catamarans, we traveled there and checked out the harbor. Above and below, a Sunday at sail is enjoyed with Larry at the helm. I've learned to respect the water, for even an expert sailor can be the victim of the caprice of the weather, wind and weight of the sails and rigging if the boat flips. Within the past few years since Keller, I've continued my love of ship cruising -- we'll log my 100th later this summer on an Alaskan cruise, cross the Atlantic in late autumn and transit the Panama Canal next spring. HIS FAVORITE  way to navigate the waterways is not with a view of the bridge from our veranda, but on the bridge himself! Better yet, at the wheel. So we're taking to the sea in smaller boats, too, getting out on the water at least once a month either by ourselves or with a friend or two to sail San Diego's beautiful bays and venture occasionally out into the Pacific. Paradise Point is on Mission Bay, a good place for the "sailor in training," such as myself. ONE RECENT  lazy Sunday, with Keller and Larry taking turns as captain, we sailed smoothly and safely out of San Diego Bay, past that last bit of land and into the actual ocean toward Mexico and the Coronado Islands. ALONG THE  way, there were fun sights to behold and wonderful relaxation.  Among the delights:  seals sunning and singing on buoys, pelicans diving for a late lunch, spectacular views of the city's skyline viewed from a couple miles out, and the beauty of seeing dozens of sails with plenty of other boaters out for a Sunday sail. Best of all for me, the sense of peacefulness -- shoes kicked aside --  listening to the boat glide through the water, waving to other pleasure seekers, cherishing our own private space on the water. Melody enjoys the view from  the dock at day's end. ON SAN DIEGO Bay, you'll see  t he gorgeous sails of the Californian, which come near as she heads out toward the Channel Islands. On both bays, you'll see beautiful yachts and pleasure boats whose owners name them "Tranquility," "Time Out" and "Knotty Girl."  Our favorite was "Assisted Living." For Paradise Point and Mission Bay information, go to:   www.paradisepoint.com/blog/sailing-on-mission-bay-in-san-diego Harbor Yacht Club has a sliding scale of rental prices, depending on the size of your boat.  You get a break if you're a member:    www.harboryc.com Paradise Point offers lovely accommodations in Balinese style bungalows, with pretty Mission Bay views. COMING UP : More on Mission Bay's delights, and fun accommodations at Paradise Point, with its Balinese inspired bungalows overlooking the water. Plus a look at the lure of gambling and why this reporter loves it so! Then we look at summer in Montana and a very special music festival, downtown Los Angeles and its famous theaters and performing arts halls. Remember to explore, learn and live. Each Wednesday and Saturday, check out www.whereiscookie.com

Distinguished bass player Bert Turetsky delighted Jewish Festival jazz lovers. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The 20th annual Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival is heating up to a happy, enthusiastic audience eager to celebrate the variety of talent and remarkable gifts the culture shares with San Diego and the world. Monday evening's 12th annual Klezmer Summit -- "Jews in Jazz" -- had a nearly full Lyceum Theater crowd clapping, cheering, reminiscing and noshing. The extravaganza at the Lyceum was a jazz lover's paradise, with world class musicians playing tunes that speak to the rich musical heritage of the culture. From the moment Bert Turetsky took center stage at a pre-show talk and demonstration, the spell was cast. An evening of pure musical joy and cultural celebration awaited! The master double bass player Turetsky entertained a lobby audience with anecdotes about his life in music and the evolution of the double bass from a stalwart accompanist and rhythm-keeper to  a respected solo instrument and occasional star of the show. Violinist Yale Strom delivered a rousing evening. Inside, as the performance began, versatile violinist Yale Strom artfully took the nearly full house through a magnificent medley of Yiddish tunes, giving generous solo time to each of the fine ensemble and peppering the numbers with anecdotes and history. Accordianist Lou Fanucchi, horn player Tripp Sprague, trumpeter Gilbert Castellenos, guitarist Fred Benedetti, drummer Duncan Moore and Jeff Pekarek on bass all took turns in the spotlight. And Strom showed his own musicianship with deftly delivered solo bits. Only a day before, headlining Los Angeles cellist Fred Katz, at nearly 93 and not feeling well, decided he couldn't make the show, so Turetsky stepped in, along with gifted woodwind player Norbert Stachel, who dazzled the audience with his versatility and spirit. He made the clarinet sing, capturing the true spirit of "klezmer" with all its sense of fun and melancholy. In a colorful striped shirt he commanded the stage, delighting the audience with triumph after technical triumph in styles ranging from folk to classical, befitting the mixture "klezmer" represents, playing flute and tambourine, too. The "klezmer" was a professional folk musician and the music we recognize as such borrows from Bulgaria, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Poland and Russia. The night was international -- from the audience of all walks of life and Clarinetist (and much more) Norbert Stachel delighted the Lyceum crowd as Yale Strom, violinist, gave each musician his solo time to shine. many ethnic persuasions, all sharing knishes at intermission, and appreciating the deep connection of "Jewish music" to the music of many other cultures -- African, Middle-Eastern, and Turkish in particular with its syncopated rhythms. Singer Elizabeth Schwartz did two sets with the ensemble, ending the evening with the Andrew Sisters' famous hit, "Bay Mir Bistu Sheyn".  Her beautiful contralto voice ran the emotional gamut -- longing, frustration, determination and happiness. The fantastic Jewish arts festival continues with "Chagall" this Sunday at La Jolla Playhouse," a new dance musical in workshop at LJP. The writer and photographer enjoy! Then  "Soulfarm"  performs June 17 at Temple Solel, the Israel-founded group which has wowed audiences internationally and earned a Grammy for its lead guitarist C Lanzbom. There's more! The festival wraps with Soulfarm's June 18, 7:30 p.m. finale in the Lyceum Stage, where all the fun began. The band has opened for Brue Hornsby, Shawn Colvin and George Clinton and is lauded for its versatility in improvisation of world music.   Singer Elizabeth Schwartz sang Yiddish balads and the hit song "Bay Mir Bistu Sheyn" to a delighted crowd at Lyceum. Knish, anyone? You bet. Artistic director Todd Salovey, at the fest's helm since the beginning, invited the crowd to sample  knishes at intermission and thanked the Lipinsky family for its vision and financial support. Salovey deserves huge kudos for his enthusiasm in keeping this inspirational series of artful programs alive and growing each year. Mazel tov! COMING SATURDAY:  We look at the Lyceum's upcoming year of performances which offer "art, sex and revolution". sdrep.org or 619-544-1000 for tickets and more information on either the Jewish festival or the Lyceum's upcoming sextet of shows. Keep the comments coming to our Wednesday and Saturday posts at www.whereiscookie.com We'll be sailing on the gorgeous Jada, flying high at the glider port and taking in a tango show soon!

Sofiero Palace and Gardens in Helsingborg, Sweden, opens its gates for a three-day festival. Vendors set up late Thursday. Dahlias the size of dinner plates are wet with morning dew at Sofiero. Stunning Sofiero Palace and Gardens -- Europe's most beautiful park -- invites people in for a weekend festival STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A clump of climbing roses forms a Valentine heart at 'Europe's most beautiful park' a title earned by the palace and grounds in 2010. WHEN KING  Gustav VI Adolf planted his first rhododendren in 1907, he had no idea how his handiwork and love of gardening would blossom. This weekend's huge festival invites the public to Sofiero Palace and Gardens, one of Sweden's most popular attractions.  On the grounds that host world class entertainers such as Sting, thousands of Swedes plus Danes from across the Sound are enjoying the palace's annual Garden Festival, a treat for the senses. Jazz musicians were setting up Thursday evening, along with gardeners, artists, craftsmen and caterers from across Sweden. THE PUBLIC  is flocking to buy bulbs and cuttings, potted plants and bouquets while lunching on their own goodies or sampling dozens of ethnic food vendors' specialties. Lovely Helsingborg is just across the sound from Denmark. King Gustav Adolf who  died in 1973, photographed at Sofiero Palace. After Thursday's rains subsided, dozens of vendors began setting up a festival at Sofiero Palace. SOFIERO  was one of the Swedish royal families country mansions, bought from a farmer in 1864 by Crown Prince Oscar of Sweden. The royals enjoyed it as a get-away -- and created a feeling of countryside within the grounds, right in the center of Helsingborg. While it was beloved by several of Oscar's descendants, the royal who made it famous and beloved by the public was Oscar's grandson, future King Gustav VI Adolf, who with his wife Crown Princess Margaret turned it into a spectacular park and garden, planting over 400 varieties of rhododendron and designing spectacular gardens along a picturesque stream leading to an outdoor nook where they took afternoon tea. Rhododendrons flower over a magnificent ravine and frame the Sofiero Palace Gardens, where organic produce is grown.   WHEN MARGARET  died and Gustav eventually remarried Lady Louise Moutbatten, it became their official summer residence.  They began the tradition of "open houses," one of which is unfolding now through Sunday in form of a famous festival. (The city of Helsingborg has operated the castle and grounds since Gustav's death in 1973 when he willed it to the city for public enjoyment.) IT TRULY  is a wonderland, a riot of color and floral abundance.  Dahlias the size of dinner plates stand upright with help of wooden stakes cleverly driven into the ground beneath the foliage. Hundreds of multi-colored fuchsia hang their heads in elegant excess. Roses climb up trellises and clump in fetching shapes -- several reminding of Valentine hearts. Bulbs for sale at Sofiero Palace in Sweden catch Cookie's eye. On our Thursday visit, we enjoyed bee blossom, wild carrot, poppies still abloom in almost September, and displays of every kind of bulb and tuber, adding to the draw of this southern Sweden outdoor event. THIS GRAND  weekend festival of flowers in Helsingborg, Sweden, is testimony that 150 years of tradition and love of gardening can bridge the gap between classes, continents and generations. For more: www.sofiero.se Mystic View Cabins invite you to travel from a Scandinavian garden fest to the wonders of  rural Montana.  COMING SOON : Mystic View Cabins in rural Montana, USA, offer another kind of splendor, thousands of miles from Scandinavia.  Our time travelers zip back and forth across the oceans, to sample the good life -- today in Sweden, and soon, in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana, where cabins near Fishtail offer solitude, natural wonders and a place to recharge and rejuvenate.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Actor Sam Waterston this summer as Prospero in "The Tempest," at New York's Shakespeare in the Parks.  ACTORS, AUDIENCE  HAVE STAYED UPRIGHT ------- STILL IN THE SADDLE AND RIDING HIGH STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS VIEWING  ''Rancho Deluxe" again after 40 years is like thumbing through an old, favorite family scrapbook. It's worn and a bit faded, but it's as welcome as a nightcap after a long day's toil. It stirs memories and inevitable "oohs and aahs." As one friend said, "Everything's good about it -- except that we're all 40 years older." Watching the 1975 film, we're naturally reminded of our own aging. But so what? Montana resident Jeff Bridges with his Oscar for "Crazy Heart." TO CELEBRATE our own memories of the filming of this made-in-Montana relic, we gathered a few friends -- of the same approximate vintage as the actors, most a few years younger. Several of the talented cast has gone to that great performance hall in the sky.  The others have aged well, we agreed.  And we of the audience are holding our own. So it was an evening of laughter and nostalgia, with familiar scenery, lively Jimmy Buffett music, delightful acting, a script both wise and witty, and plenty of made in Montana humor. Elizabeth Ashley, left, with the title character in "Agnes of God" on Broadway in 1984. PART OF THE  pleasure in seeing this charming film four decades later is in having watched the stars succeed in the slippery shadows of show business. I've had the good fortune to interview several of the key players, to attend premiers as film, TV and theater reviewer and to preview their work on Broadway and television. In the script, written by Montana's Tom McGuane, Jeff Bridges and Sam Waterston play a pair of cocky cattle rustlers named Jack McKee (Bridges) and Cecil Colson (Waterston). Elizabeth Ashley plays the female lead of Cora, wife of a wealthy rancher.  She provides many laughs with her caustic asides, closet drinking and smoldering "nobody's fool" attitude. (I've seen her on stage in several Tennessee Williams plays since then, and on Broadway as the psychiatrist in "Agnes of God," and in "August, Osage County." Always a treat to watch this versatile, accomplished actor.) BRIDGES IS  young and baby-faced as a clever misfit, a preview of the roles for which he'd win acclaim in his long career. Waterston is understated and wry as his part-Indian sidekick. The late Slim Pickens was a real rodeo cowboy and provides an authentic character in "Rancho Deluxe."  It's been fun to see Bridges at events in Los Angeles, where he is respected not only for his acting, but for having a strong marriage and successful family life in an environment not known for either trait. I was delighted to see him win the Oscar for "Crazy Heart." Waterston is known on TV for his "Law and Order" and Abe Lincoln mini-series.  But I enjoy him more in Shakespeare in the Parks, where this summer his wisdom and wit as the marooned sorcerer Prospero in "The Tempest" won raves.  Like many of today's fine actors, he came up through the stage and is returning to it in his older years. (He is 74; Bridges is a younger 65.) AS THE THIEVES  steal cattle from wealthy rancher John Brown, Harry Beigh is called in (Slim Pickens.) Clifton James is a hoot as the rancher -- the actor is alive and well at 94.  Watching him and Pickens go after the two young rustlers is chief among the movie's pleasures.  The bombastic Brown and Beigh (a former rustler) provide a merry kick in the pants. Enter hapless ranch hands with rhyming names of Burt and Curt: Harry Dean Stanton and Richard Bright furnish giggles as they fail to capture the thieves. Pickens died in 1983, famous for riding the bomb in "Dr. Strangelove." A rodeo cowboy for 20 years, he's the "real deal" and his is is the most authentic character in the picture. All four supporting players garnered fine reviews for "Rancho Deluxe." One critic said McGuane wrote the script "purely out of a desire to keep from fallin’ asleep” (mimicking rustler Jack’s definition of capitalism) but our group of movie aficionados found the writing engaging and the characters and their shenanigans entertaining. Best of all, we loved seeing Montana on screen. The film's beautiful footage of Paradise Valley includes a scene at Chico Hot Springs, and another when the helicopter spots the rustlers. We marveled at the film's lovely lighting by William Fraker and we tapped our toes to the Jimmy Buffet score -- written before he gained Margaritaville fame and a following of Parrotheads. Downtown Livingston is there, too, and it's fun to see the familiar Depot, restaurants and Murray Hotel, which have aged as well as the actors. COMING UP -  Come visit Paradise Point with us, in San Diego, on picturesque Mission Bay.                                                                                                     --Bruce Keller photo PARADISE ON PARADE:   San Diego's  Paradise Point Resort is a place of relaxation, beauty and peace of mind.  Come sailing with us in one of southern California's most desirable locals.  We'll guide you through a calming afternoon on Mission Bay, based from a beautiful 44-acre private island with a mile of sandy beach.  And believe it or not -- one of our favorite resorts is less than seven miles from downtown San Diego and the airport.  Come on over -- and remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekends and Wednesdays at  www.whereiscookie.com .