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The Pyramids of Guimar convinced famous Norwegian anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl of a connection between Tenerife's ancient Guanche people and the civilizations in Central America and Egypt. PYRAMIDS OF GUIMAR INTRIGUE -- ARE THEY CONNECTED TO OTHER IN DISTANT LANDS? STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The grounds of the Casa Charcona Museum contain nautical lore, sculpture, pottery copies, mummies and much more, as Cookie discovers.  This inhabitant of Tenerife is happy in his environs. LONG BEFORE  the coming of the Spanish, a curious and striking people inhabited the land of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. Although these people lived just off the coast of Africa, with its predominantly dark-skinned people, the original Tenerife inhabitants were blue-eyed and blonde. SO IT IS  interesting that a blue-eyed, blonde explorer named Thor Heyerdahl fell in love with Tenerife and her pyramids. The world famous explorer and anthropologist studied the Tenerife pyramids and people, and made Tenerife his permanent home after he sailed the world's seas. The famed Scandinavian established a ground-breaking Norwegian-Spanish project in the Canary Islands in 1990, chiefly to protect the newly identified step-pyramids. THE PYRAMIDS of Güímar are six rectangular pyramid-shaped, terraced structures, built from lava stone without the use of mortar. Like other of the world's mysterious pyramids, these attract speculation and create wonder. Is there a connection between their builders and other pyramid makers? Keller enjoys a sculpture in the Casa Charcona Museum. Heyerdahl became enthralled with this and the country's early inhabitants --  the Guanches. He spread the word about their artwork, religion, architecture and of course the pyramids, which he researched avidly, describing similarities to pyramids worldwide. Many scholars believe that blue-eyed hunter-gatherers roamed prehistoric Europe. Some ancient peoples in Spain 7,000 years ago had blue eyes and dark skin, while the Tenerife people were fair of skin tone. Heyerdahl compared pyramids from around the world. ALTHOUGH IT  is unknown for sure how they arrived on the islands, the ever curious Norwegian and others proved that the Guanches shared various cultural characteristics with the ancient Egyptians. Heyerdahl also researched and wrote about their building style, noting that it seems to have been replicated in South and Central America. TO HEYERDAHL  and others, though, the most stunning link between the Guanches and the Egyptians is the pyramids. The Guanche-built step pyramids use the same model as those found on a grander scale in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. Heyerdahl also noted that the Tenerife pyramids have an east-west alignment which indicates they had a religious purpose, associated with the rise and setting of the sun. The red dots mark the spots of the world's pyramids. CAREFULLY built stairways on the west side of each pyramid lead up to the summit, which has a flat platform covered with gravel. Scholars surmise these were used for sacrifice or other religious or ceremonial purposes. We know something of what the original Guanche looked like through the fortuitous existence of original mummies, on display in Pyramid in Chichen Itza out of Cancun.  The Tenerife pyramids resemble others, many believe.  the island's charming museum, Casa Chacona.  It  welcomes visitors with pottery copies of Heyerdahl's famed rafts and videos, photos and clippings of his journeys and private and public life along with the curiously beautiful mummies. The island also offers a wonderful dolphin park and glorious beaches -- clean, pretty and peaceful. COMING SOON:  Back stage theatrics shipboard, a famous Plantation named Oak Alley, renting a car abroad, and a visit to the the glorious Queen Mary, Winston Churchill's favorite ocean liner now a Long Beach hotel. Then we return to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and Ashland's lively cabaret. Tell your friends and remember to explore, learn and live.   Please check us out at www.whereiscookie.com

AVOID TROUBLE BY DOCUMENTING EVERYTHING, PHOTOGRAPHING DAMAGE, OBSERVING LOCAL SIGNS Renting a car abroad -- here in Sardinia -- calls for advance planning. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER RENTING A CAR  while traveling abroad can be unnerving. Daunting questions arise: What do you do about a bang or a ding noticed before you take the car out of the lot? How will you transcend a language barrier? Do you book at home before you go, or wait and take your chances there? What about airport rentals versus A small car is a good idea, particularly in southern Europe. downtown or hotel rentals? Can you pick up your car in one town and deliver it in another? THESE TIPS  -- in two blog posts, today and Saturday -- will help you navigate the paperwork and come out safely with a good experience.  We've had luck renting through Europcar, which we've used in several European cities. It's a thrill to be on the road and on your own in a new place! You can indeed pick up a car in one town and drop it off in another, but you must make your desire clear in the contract from the beginning. (Say you're flying into Barcelona and returning to the U.S. from Madrid.  No worries, but let the car people know on-line.) Maneuvering in close quarters -- here Egypt -- challenges.   So that you do not squander a moment of your precious time abroad, book in advance. You will save money  by booking on line and printing out the contract. Take some time on the web and look and comparison shop.  Even payment can be made before you leave home.  You'll know the precise amount and won't have to translate Euros or other foreign currency. It's also cheaper, easier, safer and less likely to include hidden clauses. Once you are abroad, exchange rates can change, you'll have unfamiliar rental agreements, possible language barriers and other cultural differences.   GASSING UP .  You'll get the car with a full tank and save money by filling it up yourself just  before you return it.  Most car companies charge a standard fee of up to $100, depending on the car's size, if they refill it for you.  Hertz charged us for gas, despite the fact that we'd filled up the car minutes before returning it.  We supplied the dated credit credit card receipt showing the charge in Euros for a full tank.  In time, the charge was reversed. Be sure to fill your tank up just before you return the car; keep a receipt. IT'S A SHAME  we have to be so defensive while renting cars, but it's the way life has become.  Record anything suspicious for the record "just in case."   We rent the car in the airport and return it to the airport, which is cheaper than returning or renting downtown or at your hotel.  And you save the cab fare to get to your first overnight stop. If you are unlucky enough to have an accident, take photos.   WE DOCUMENT with photos any scratches, dings or questionable areas not noted on the contract. This was helpful recently when Hertz also charged our credit card nearly $300 more for a supposed dent incurred, the company said, during our rental. We disputed the charge with photos of a small ding taken before we left the lot.  It proved that we hadn't done it, that it was a rusty dent and had obviously occurred some time ago.  We also noted that part of the "damage" in the bad photos sent us was a tree leaf. If, gods forbid, you do have an accident, take photos of everything while waiting for the officials. Give yourself plenty of time to get where you're going in unfamiliar cities.   ASK ABOUT  weekend specials, late penalties and gas charges.  Unadvertised discounts and hidden costs may not be explained at the time of rental, and it may be too late once you find out.  Be sure to know the time for drop-off. Be a bit early. Many rental agencies begin charging for each 24-hour-period from the time of rental, and will bill a full day if you return the car even minutes after another 24-hour period begins. In Rome and elsewhere, scooters buzz easily about cars.     START A FOLDER as soon as you book your trip. Toss clippings and promotional codes you come upon.  If you see a TV ad for a good rental car rate, jot it down.  If you're reading a magazine or newspaper, clip ads and write down promotional codes. Many of the best rates do not show up on agents' computer screens.   Inquire about senior citizen, AAA, credit card and frequent flier program discounts or add-on offers. Be sure to show your airline or member card for the promised mileage credit before you drive the car off the lot. THIS WEEKEND : Small or large car, manual or automatic transmission, driver's license and insurance information. More on car rentals abroad. We post weekends and Wednesdays.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and tell your friends about www.whereiscookic.com .

A VISIT AND OVERHEARD CONVERSATION BRING REVELATION OF THE PLACE'S HISTORIC IMPORTANCE With the grandeur of Tara in "Gone with the Wind," Oak Alley's "big house" rests at the end of a grand oak entryway. The view from the second-story balcony at Oak Alley.   A docent in period dress guides guests through the living room of Oak Alley. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PLANTATIONS make me nervous. Revisiting the sorry history of slavery should make one uncomfortable. The juxtaposition of small, stark slave houses against the opulent mansions is always startling. Especially with "Twelve Years a Slave" fresh in our minds, and its deserving recent Oscar wins, one realizes that suffering and pain of many crafted "the good life" for the few. YET HISTORY  lives on -- with all its complexity -- in the beautiful Oak Alley Plantation near New Orleans. Located in Vacherie, Louisiana, where creole French is still spoken and the oaks are centuries old, Oak Alley is commanding. With its graceful crepe myrtles, restful gardens and enduring cast iron sugar kettles, one almost smells molasses thickening in the glory days. I VISITED  the plantation for the second time, thinking of my journeys in terms of understanding history.  I overheard one tourist say to another, "I noticed in the guest register that your name is Riley.  My family might have been owned by your family." Spring is fully sprung at Oak Alley. And old-fashioned blacksmith shows how to make nails in an exhibit. INSTEAD OF  offending one another, the two women -- one white, one black, both curious and articulate -- exchanged addresses and the intent to continue their acquaintance in pursuit of research and information. Learning trumped guilt, prejudice or anger. Oak Alley, now a non-profit trust and historical monument, gained a reputation before the Civil War for its decent treatment of slaves.  Owned by a wealthy Creole sugar planter, Jacques Telesphore Roman, and his bride Celina, it is a splendid example of the Greek Revival architecture of the times, designed by the bride's father. Cookie pauses outside the slave quarters of Oak Alley. THE PLACE  was a  prestigious home and grand receptions were held in the ballroom. (Couples still marry in the historic home and one was planning their wedding during our visit.) But the oaks are the undisputed stars. The "alley" for which the place is named is a quarter-mile long with more than two dozen 300-year old Virginia Live Oaks. The trees are registered and named. The star of the oak show has a 30-foot girth and 127-foot spread of limbs. Live oaks can live to be 600 years old, which makes the Oak Alley trees only middle-aged. THE GRANDLY  decorated and furnished rooms of the Big House contrast to the slavery, two rows of cabins where the ledger with the slaves names is displayed. One of the property's most successful gardeners was a slave named Antoine, who successfully grafted 110 trees in a nearby orchard.  His showpiece trees were particularly pretty and prolific, An Oak Alley bedroom, with canopy. but were displaced to make way for sugarcane through the years. Last year, Oak Alley Foundation planted 13 pecan trees to replace them and to honor the gifted slave, Antoine, who made the pecan an important part of the plantation's legacy.The home's last owners, the Stewarts, are buried on the place along with beloved pets. The lady of the house, Josephine, gardened daily until her death in 1972.  The boxwoods she fussed over are 100 years old. The slave quarters are of course simpler, more utilitarian. A HOST  of movies has been filmed at the plantation, including the 1965 classic, "Hush, Hush, Sweet Charlotte," with Bette Davis, 1993's "Interview with the Vampire" (Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt stayed in New Orleans during the filming of the Anne Rice best seller) and in Beyonce's hit music video, "Deja Vu." UNLIKE MANY  other historic homes and plantations, Oak Alley is still a working sugarcane operation.  The Big House tour is fascinating and you can self-guide yourself around the slave grounds, with a stop for a praline or a dish of gumbo at the restaurant.   OakAlleyPlantation.org COMING SOON: Begorrah! 'Tis St. Patrick's Day soon.  We'll   look at the loves and lore of the Irish and some of the world's most joyful parades. Who was St. Patrick -- really? Is it true about the snakes? All that and more at: www.whereiscookie.com . Remember to explore, learn and live. Find us Wednesdays and weekends and share the link.

TRAVELER'S BALANCING ACT: HAVING A GOOD TIME MEANS ENJOYING THE MOMENT, BUT BEING READY TO BE SPONTANEOUS, SMELL THE ROSES  One of the continent's largest markets was a surprise find for our travelers in Sao Paulo, Brazil.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS The rugged Costa Brava provided a scenic vista with surprising views. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER MY GRANDFATHER  said, "When a plum falls from the sky, open your mouth." Thanks for the wisdom, gramps. I've enjoyed many a "plum" on your advice. The trick is not letting it hit you on the head! Keep your eyes on the prize but watch where you're going. TRAVELING WELL   is a balancing act, as is the art of living itself. Jerusalem's cavernous Church of the  Holy Sepulchre and nearby  Western Wall yielded a surprise.  I  plan our large trips two and three years ahead, spending hours, days even weeks checking resources, making reservations, researching hotels, cruises, museums.  I scour brochures and the internet for car rental options, theater choices, eateries, hikes and outings that make the locale unique.  I consider the appeal of cities and towns themselves, weighing their strengths against our preferences. A visit to Key Largo, Florida, prompted a cocktail party. ONCE ON  the road, though, I'm ready for adventure. I like to be happily surprised.  Good thing, because my partner-photographer Keller likes to explore. A spontaneous city tour led us to one of South America's largest markets in the center of Sao Paulo Brazil. We're still enjoying the cumin and cinnamon from a wonderful spice shop, and we feasted for two days on the fruit. An unplanned hike to a Costa Rica park introduced this lizard. WE'VE TAKEN  side roads that lead to dead ends, with cattle grazing in open range.  We've taken roads that lead to splendid vistas and riverbanks with migrating geese. Once, in remote eastern Spain, we stumbled upon a 12th Century village with only one other stroller and a golden lab snoozing in the sun. BEING FLEXIBLE  and curious on the road means having a more relaxing time.  A recent  day trip in Guatemala produced friends to lunch with.  I like to take off my watch on a sunny southern European morning. Shedding that reminder of time and the "real world" opens my mind and heart. Our Costa Brava adventure last November yielded not only the beautiful village, but a small town with a hardware store!  Keller found a transformer to step our electronics down from 220 volts to 110.  He was a kid in the candy shop, in the Spanish version of Ace Hardware. MEETING HELPFUL , friendly people is another bonus of flexible travel. We've never had a problem getting grounded or back on track and we've been lost countless times. Sailing off the beaten path yielded this lovely picnic setting near Seattle. Don't be hesitant about pulling over into the farmer's yard if you see him baling hay.  He'll point you to the little lake down the road with a stunning view of the sunset. He'll tell you where to find watercress or a waterfall up the trail. We happened upon a pretty park in Yuma, Arizona, which became our picnic stop on many trips between Phoenix and San Diego ANOTHER TIME  -- and this was a Keller solo -- we were touring Jerusalem with friends. Entering the Western Wall, honoring tradition, we went our separate ways -- men on the left side, women on the right, separated by a stone wall. Keller and Cookie took time to be silly on a Las Vegas trip. I watched from the female side as Keller followed a group of male mourners into a small room. "Oh, my," I thought.  "He'll miss the 4 p.m. tour departure for the Church of the Holy Seplulchre. He made the meeting time, though, wide eyed from his discovery.  He'd been invited to join the family as the kaddish was offered and took beautiful photos the rest of us missed. IN COSTA  Rica a few weeks ago, we took a hike on a trail recommended by new friends, and came upon a lizard who inflated his throat into an amazing red balloon! Smelling the "flowers" in travel is literal and figurative. In Guatemala, we met a couple from Sweden who invited us to sail with them and join them for lunch! In Florida, we toured with two couples who invited us to a spontaneous cocktail hour and a fascinating boat ride where we came upon mating turtles.  Stopping to "smell the roses," we enjoyed a rare bloom in the ocean's garden. IF YOU do get lost -- or lose your companion --  e calm.  Have a game plan before, as we do, that if you can't find one another you'll return to your last meeting place. Finally, don't be afraid to be silly and have fun. Inspired by the crazy mix of people in  Las Vegas a couple years ago, we changed our hair styles had  fun with a "punky" self portrait. James Hayes, with his dog Millie, grows organic vegetables and makes wine in a   northern California farm with a social conscience. Next up at whereiscookie.com   NEXT UP :  California's north coast yields many pleasures, including this special farm, where wine is made and organic produce is grown and sold to a restaurant with healthy and tasteful delights for the palate. We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventure.  Join us to explore, learn and live and check us out at www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie at Oceanside Harbor in southern California, with Nick and Nora, beginning a recent two-week odyssey.  COOKIE'S MOTHER'S MILK: TRAVEL ENRICHES, ENLIGHTENS, ENERGISES Cookie, right, age three, sister Peny with their mother Ellen. Already, she was a "seasoned" traveler. I KEEP  my  passport renewed and ready to go, and my bag is always packed.  I could be ready to head for the airport with a half hour's notice. I don't really care where I'm going, as long as I'm on my way. Keller christens a new adventure with champagne! When people say "Oh, I've done  Paris" (or the Amazon, an African safari or the Antarctic) I cringe.  They've done  the place! Impossible. A Bedouin takes to his transport at the Pyramids in Egypt.  Just as no two days are alike, no two trees exactly the same, or no two people identical, no city, island or place remains static. We don't eat a single meal and say we've done dining! I'VE BEEN  on more than 100 cruises. Each offers new excitement and experiences, even if the ports might be repeats.  I've been to Paris a dozen times and never fail to feel its magic anew.  I've been on the Amazon three times and hope I have another three trips in me. Ditto, my many trips to Ireland, the Hawaiian Islands, and Australia and New Zealand, where I'll return in November. Two kids with wanderlust:  Cookie and Keller at Belem Castle in Lisbon. My mother took me on my first road trip when I was just over two and my sister Peny was not quite one.  We drove to Kansas in a green Oldsmobile, with my grandparents, Gus and Olive Nystul, to visit my great-aunt Lillian and her husband Ronnie.  It was a month of total magic to me and I vividly remember the drive-in stops for milk shakes, the Mount Rushmore sculptures, the motel rooms, menus I collected, stories my grandpa told and movie ticket stubs.  It was my own Yellow Brick Road and I've followed it ever since. I DISCOVERED  a few months back that my great great grandfather was ambassador to the Netherlands from his native England. That explains both why I am a die-hard Anglophile, and why I have incurable wanderlust. Cookie, right, and her sister Misha on Mission Bay, San Diego. Many of my favorite travel memories have to do with water -- bays, oceans, rivers.  Others have to do with theater, and I'm waiting for a play right now in Ashland, Oregon, an all-female production of "Two Gentlemen of Verona."  The Oregon Shakespeare Festival is another ever-changing tradition for me.  Each play is unique -- each "Two Gents" spectacular. The scholar Augustine of Hippo said, “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” MARK TWAIN   believed travel to be "fatal to bigotry, prejudice and narrow mindedness." And Jack Kerouac referred to his love of each "new, crazy adventure  beneath the skies."  Queen Califia's Magical Circle in Escondido was a surprise find, as our travelers happened upon it while picnicking in Kit Carson Park.  Many of us love travel and live for each new trip. It enlarges, enlivens, enlightens! It gives energy.  It's mother's milk. Keller's grandmother was a travel agent in Minneapolis.  She immigrated from Sweden, took many tour groups back to her native land, and was around the world five times by the time Keller was ten years old. He, too, came by his wanderings naturally, lived in Saudi Arabia and has traveled the world. OUR BEST  times together are on our travel adventures.  Whether it's a day trip to the country (where we often stumble upon magic) or a month-long odyssey to South America or the Far East, we are grateful for each new day together, and the opportunity to share the world's wonders as a team -- partners in life, adventure and this blog.  COMING NEXT:   Cookie and Keller take to a kayak, and manage to stay afloat. A peaceful estuary at Moss Landing reveals gorgeous and graceful clam-crunching otters, huge sea lions belching and making other noises not appropriate to mention in polite company, and dozens of pelicans preening and lunching. We are about travel with a sense of fun and adventure off the beaten track. Visit us s at: www.whereiscookie.com

PERFECT SETTING, CALM CALIFORNIA WATERS HELP GIRL GET BACK IN THE BOAT Pelicans at Moss Landing were part of the lure to get Cookie back in the kayak after an accident derailed her. Cookie musters her intrepid bravery chip and prepares to kayak again.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A KAYAKING KID  am I now,  thanks to friends who coaxed me back onto the water. They knew I'd had a kayaking accident on my one and only attempt at the sport -- hit by a wave in the South Pacific and overturned in Bora Bora. So I'd been reluctant -- even though that was 20 years ago. The soothing setting of friends' redwood forest home prepared our travelers for a tranquil time in the kayak. They assured me that the waters at Moss Landing, near Santa Cruz, California, were welcoming and gentle.  And that we would return before the tide made kayaking difficult. AND SO  it came to pass. We ladies sipped coffee on the redwood forest patio of our hosts while the boys put the kayaks on top of the van.  The girls packed jackets and waterproof booties in the economy car and we met at the pretty little village. Moss Landing is a quaint, historic fishing town smack in the middle of California's Monterey Bay coastline. Although I'd traveled this stretch of coastline many times, I'd never stopped to savor this hidden treasure. Moss Landing is at the red "A" marking BESIDES  galleries and shops, there are many nature related activities including whale watching and simply walking the unspoiled beach. Beautiful, historic accommodations and fun restaurants lure tourists. In fact, surfers were readying to ride the waves as we unpacked the kayaks. I fortified myself with herbal calm pills. Brad Smith, old friend and college buddy of Keller's, guided me into our kayak and helped me arrange myself comfortably.  I was in the front.  Keller was in the rear, and soon we were paddling our way out into Elkhorn Slough, internationally known for its splendid Brad Smith, left, and Bruce Keller: a water-laced friendship. wildlife viewing. Brad and his wife Maggie led the path into a marshy panorama. SOME   FOLKS  venture out into the harbor in search of whales, but because of my long ago mishap, our friends recommended staying in the calmer inland waters of the Slough, which provided us close-up views of dozens of river otters.  We could hear them crunching on crabs, opening them on rocks or their own breast bones.  Crack, crack, crunch, crunch.  It was wonderful. A river otter basks in the sun and readies himself for his water borne meal. The Monterey Bay's river otter diet consists of crayfishes, crabs, and other aquatic invertebrates. More daring otters also eat frogs.      They dine on the water, lying on their backs, with their food on the chest. Takes dining al fresco to new heights!  DESPITE CONCERN  that otters compete with game fishers, the fishes otters like are mainly non-game species. Otters  also occasionally prey on birds, rabbits, and rodents if they get too close to the water. Thanks to Brad's and Maggie's kayaking expertise, we watched sea otters dining for a couple hours. Maggie and Brad Smith enjoy the serenity in their kayak. Then came the pelicans, the other star of our adventure, also adept at eating on the run -- or shall we say "on the fly"? WITH ITS  showy plumage and distinct feeding methods, the brown pelican we watched at Moss Landing sets itself apart from seven other pelican species. It's a small species, and the only one known to dive and dine. Most pelican species feed by corralling fish into shallow waters through a group chase before scooping them up with their large beaks. Brown pelicans have their own method: once they spot the light reflecting off the scales of fish, they plunge Brad packs the kayaks up again. into the water from heights of up to 70 feet, scoop up fish, drain water through their beaks and tip their heads back to swallow. Air sacs beneath their skin protect them from injury when they hit the water. KAYAKING  got us up close and personal to the otter and his neighbor the pelican -- with dozens near us on the shore, and many swooping overhead to fish and frolic. We also saw many large sea lions and smaller seals. And a fish lunch, made to order, after the adventure. I NOW  trust kayaking, and will try it again.  I found it to be a relaxing sport, with sound instruction (which I obviously didn't have my first fateful time), and with good equipment, which Brad and Maggie provided. The Inuit word, kayak, means "man's boat" but we girls held up our end! We weren't exactly "at one" with our kayak -- Keller is a better paddler than I  -- but after a couple kayaking hours, we looked like we knew what we were doing.  Mostly. And from the beginning, I was relaxed, calm, full of wonder, grateful for kind friends and the opportunity to conquer an old demon. The Sundial Bridge in Redding, Calif., is world famous and a wonderful walking adventure. NEXT UP :  Location, location, location.  The Sundial Bridge in Redding, Calif., is a wondrous, walkable work of art. It's in a pretty city you might never have visited.  And it's both a bridge and the world's largest sundial.  And a unique B&B is walking distance from the bridge.  What makes a B&B special? Find out next as we visit the Bridge House Bed and Breakfast, and take a stroll across the famous bridge. We're about travel, the arts and adventure, with a sense of fun. Join us on a northern California wildlife trek, a return to Hearst Castle, and our picks for "hot, hip coastal hotels." Explore, learn and live and visit us at: w ww.whereiscookie.com

Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge on St. Croix is the longest stretch of beach in the U.S Virgin Islands. This beautiful beach is a protected environment, home to the endangered leatherback turtle. The port that is now Christiansted was visited  by Columbus on his second voyage to the new world. St. Croix attractions ISLAND OFFERS MIX OF THE STATELY, SERENE, SURPRISING; BIKING IS A FINE WAY TO EXPLORE  IT  Cookie takes to the bike with a custom helmet -- then away, St. Croix. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" 'HOW ABOUT  a bike ride? St. Croix will be beautiful from a bike.'' My adventuresome partner asked, suggesting an outing. Mahogany trees, now several hundred years old, pave the way to still stately plantations reminding of the island's Colonial and plantation days.  "It's a beautiful island, and we could see a good share of the shoreline, plus forests and plantations.  And it's only 15 miles," he lobbied. "Okay," said I, not wishing to be accused of cowardice or laziness. So we booked the scenic bike ride from our Serenade of the Seas balcony.  It promised plantations, rain forests, panoramic coastal views, historic city sights and an engaging commentary. First on our St. Croix itinerary: we wanted to explore its highlights. We hoped to see a stately plantation -- elegant even in decay -- and we'd read about the pretty stone walkways, historic churches with grassy graves and fascinating inscriptions. We wanted to see rolling green hills, coral beaches, sea turtles and snorkelers looking for wonders of the sea.  Bikers get a brief history of the island, the only one actually named by Christopher Columbus, who anchored off a natural bay west of Christiansted, known today as Salt River. There was time for snacks and photos of leatherback sea turtles during the tour. In its heyday, St. Croix was among the Caribbean's top producers of sugar and molasses.  Cruzan rum is still a huge export. We wanted to see a rum factory. We saw it all! WE HELMETED  up with bikes for our size, then set off from the Danish port of Christiansted on a lovely 75 degree day. We'd just heard on our ship that most of the U.S. was again blanketed in a blizzard, so we relished our bike outing on a gorgeous warm St. Croix day. Baby leatherbacks take their first steps toward the sea. FIRST, WE  biked around the town, a picturesque partly restored port, with vestiges of graceful Danish architecture and native peoples' imprint. The last of the Native Indian people to inhabit St. Croix were the Carib, a nomadic people with wanderlust and sailing skills. Originally from the Guiana region of South America, the Carib were not the first Indians on St. Croix. The Tainos and Arawaks were there earlier, but the Carib greeted Columbus in 1493, when he anchored off a natural bay, know known as Salt River. Our  St. Croix bike tour included a visit to St. Croix's landmarks, such as this lovely Danish style government building, with its graceful archways.   ST. CROIX  is a world away from the U.S. -- 1,700 miles south of New York, 1100 miles south east of Miami, near the eastern tip of the Caribbean island chain. On the same latitude as Acapulco and Hawaii, just below the Tropic of Cancer, its eternal summer is caressed by cooling breezes.  The people are relaxed and friendly, and there is a greatest tourist draw: leatherback sea turtles.  We weren't there for their egg-laying, but heard of this oldest sea turtle species with its 150-million year history on Earth.  This largest sea turtle is the fourth largest living reptile on our planet.  It can weigh 2,100 pounds and be 10 feet long.  We saw where the females come to lay their eggs, under vigilant eyes of environmentalists.  We learned that this handsome leatherback is the only sea turtle that does not have a hard shell. It can dive up to 3,000 feet! WE LEFT St. Croix with views of vintage fishing trawlers, barges, tugboats and thriving coral reefs, thinking of the Arawak and Carib people whose burial grounds we'd visited.  Hoping to return to see the turtles. St. Croix's landscape still seems pristine and this lovely island was fortunately spared the ravages of the latest hurricane. We can't wait to dive again into the  serenity and beauty of St. Croix.   The Caribbean's oldest railway is still up and running on St. Kitts. Come with us on a 30-mile historic rail tour with lively tales of the island's lore. UP NEXT: Not far from St. Croix, but another world unto itself, St. Kitts welcomes us.  We hitch a ride on the Caribbean's oldest railway, listen to a wonderful vocal trio, learn of the military engineering for which the island is noted, and admire impressive volcanic rock structures built on the back of slaves.  We enjoy a spectacular view where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean and are eager to share all this with you.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a novel look at travel, the arts, family and nature.

Master builder Bruce Keller, whose specialty is high-end La Jolla, Calif., projects, is spending part of his summer in the Beartooths, helping Cookie with their summer home. REMODELING POINTER: YOU WILL EVENTUALLY HAVE BEAUTY,BUT AT A PRICE! PATIENCE IS A PREREQUISITE Expert framer Tom Giamanco traveled from San Diego to help. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WAAAAAAAAH. RICKY. I've been making my own personal "I Love Lucy" home movie.  I'm thinking of the famous chocolate candy assembly line, or the grape stomping scene.  I can't remember ever being so frustrated, excited, confused, over-extended and overwhelmed -- with more than a little physical pain thrown into the mix. KELLER knew I'd always wanted a "tree house" in the second story.  With mature aspen, beautiful stars and sky, and a backdrop of gorgeous mountains, large windows to frame the view seem a natural. With bird feeders out the new shower skylight. KELLER MADE it happen.  But it had been 22 years since I'd walked the construction trail, and my moccasins were out of step.  This major overhaul of the second-floor rooms involves the whole house: addition of a new bathroom and bedroom, redo of the office and library, a new solarium bedroom and redesign of the entryway and first floor walkway. Landscaping was torn up. Siding was torn off.  "Demo" -- contractor lingo for "demolition" -- involves destruction beyond belief. I've feared for the lives of our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, lest they be hit by flying debris.  I've been a weepy mess. Tom, painter Jim Slater and Keller keep the Yorkies,  Nick and Nora, safely out of harm's way. BUT HOLD ON. There's bound to be trial and tribulation when people are living in the home being remodeled.  And although Keller's budget estimate was close -- within a few thousand of his original estimate --  the money has been flying out the window like the cliff swallows circling at dusk. Throw in various unrelated annoyances, the ordering, delays, wrong materials, unreliable deliveries and etc.etc.etc.: Plus: Cookie, arm in sling and looking more than a bit overwhelmed, fixes lunch for the troops and awaits her "Calm" pill to kick in.  *Two flat tires on the Explorer were followed by a blow-out on the truck. Darrel Holmquist located the septic  tank and prepared for addition  of a new sewer line to new bathroom. *The refrigerator died three days after we arrived July 1. Because it fits under a custom made cupboard, it is a special heighth and thus a special order.  We were three weeks living out of coolers with the back-up 70-year old Frigidaire in the garage (thank goodness for it.) *One of the toilets in the older parts of the home checked out.  Or was it the plumbing Bruce Keller, left, and Bradford Smith of southern California, at work. below the toilet?  Suffice to say, ugly mess and overflowing waters.  Many towels relegated to rag bag and problem finally fixed, thanks to Stillwater Plumbing. BEARTOOTH LUMBER  has been a godsend, too, delivering much of our needed paint, lumber, drywall, stain and thousands of dollars worth of windows. Lunches and dinners have been a challenge -- with many extra people. But we're eating well. Keller's able colleagues have been flying in and out of San Diego. Don't despair.  Plants will grow back, and everything will be pretty again. All of this wouldn't have been so unnerving with both arms, but with one arm in a sling, result of an accident a few weeks ago, I'm moving more slowly. And I'm still in considerable pain from serious arm injury. CO-ORDINATING  schedules of the back-hoe man, septic tank man, plumber, roofer, and an array of Keller's talented California assistants has called upon my travel agent savvy, meditation skills, and extra helpings of Calms Forte. Good thing I've navigated the world and know how to arrange work times and schedules. Fixing meals for the gang -- nine workers here one day -- has taxed my imagination and resources. I think I have a dazed look on my face much of the time. Builder Tom Giamanco takes time to enjoy the west fork of the Stillwater, and to keep in touch with his California friends and family.  NEXT UP :  Our two-parter on construction woes segues to tips for staying sane and keeping your relationship happy during a remodeling project.  Especially when you're living in the home you're improving upon, you need patience and good will toward one another. You also need to take time off to have a little fun. And you must look at the big picture:  the addition will be beautiful, the dust and disruption will disappear, and you'll be happy. We try to imbue our pieces with a sense of fun, and our travel stories with the spirit of innovation and adventure.   Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Nick is surrounded by flowers on his 16th birthday. Even though he was virtually blind and had painful spinal and rear leg issues, he was still game for a walk, a snuggle, a kiss for his people. BRAVERY, LESSONS, LOVE, JOY FROM AN ENDEARING YORKIE NAMED NICK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Nothing like a Yorkie kiss, and Nicky was a generous kisser, here with his appreciative mama, Cookie. FOR THE first time in 17 years, I sit at the computer with no doggie at my feet. Nicky has crossed the Rainbow Bridge. He is deeply missed. His favorite blue bed sits under the desk. He'd wander over for a little lie-down when he heard me there (he had a half-dozen beds around the house, one in each room.)  He'd nestle down and snooze. He liked it when I touched his nose with my bare toe, to signal "I'm here. Love you, little guy." Lately, he'd been sleeping more. Since his twin sister Nora died two years ago at not quite 15, Nicky declined.  He paced, wandered the house, looked for her. We kept the bed they shared and one of her little coats for him to sniff. He often did, and cuddled with familiar toys and blankets.  He whimpered, he mourned. He cried, yes cried.    I asked three vets about his behavior. They assured me that dogs grieve, to give him time. Puppies Nora, left, and Nicky, learned to swim when months old, here drying off in Davis, Calif. GRADUALLY, HE rebounded from his sister's departure, but his body was failing.  Like old people, he had meds: Rimadyl for osteoporosis and painful spine and back legs, Cosequin to help him move and support his weary joints; fish oil with his kibble; treats fortified with calcium and glucosamine; doggie Xanax for car rides, which had become increasingly difficult. He'd pace and whine in the car. Our once idyllic road trips were no longer the fun they'd been before his anxiety. His back legs were shaky when he woke up and it took him a couple hours to move without stumbling or collapsing.  He was virtually blind and took his cues from us on walks, around corners, on steps in parks and gardens.  Bruce Keller, Nora, Cookie and Nicky at Lake Tahoe. He stopped jumping up on the couch and needed our help getting up and down the stairs, but he still took walks with us twice and day and even ran the last half-block home, leaving us huffing and puffing to keep up. He knew to stop at our house. By magic doggie braille he'd strut through the front door and bound into the house. Dog lover from birth NICKY DIED this past weekend, in friends' backyard. I regret that I was not with him but must believe he knows how we love and miss him. Nick personified the Yorkie profile -- smart, loyal, playful, fearless.  He survived many accidents: a rattlesnake bite, a run-in with a grizzly bear, leaps from second-story decks in two different homes after squirrels and birds. When he was four, he was run over by a  Keller with Nick, Nora near our California home.   speeding gravel truck resulting in a serious hematoma on his intrepid Yorkie head. Thanks to our fabulous Montana veterinarian, Rex, he lived to tell the tale.   He jumped out of the moving Explorer three times, in pursuit of horses, turkeys and deer.  Cookie sails with Nora and Nick, Mission Bay. WHEN HE   and Nora were two years old, he took on three off-leash pit bulls who attacked me and his twin sister.  She was nearly killed and was hospitalized for weeks.  I needed two skin grafts on my arm, but Nicky escaped with a bite on his right ear. The nurse and doctor who rescued us in an Arizona park were drawn to the scene by my screams and the sight of Nicky atop the growling dogs, who'd pinned Nora and me down. Recently, he recovered from serious pancreatitis with the help of a couple antibiotics and our TLC. Nicky, left, and Nora, at Santa Barbara pier. THESE TWO endearing, adorable little friends traveled thousands of miles with us. They rode trains, sailed in boats, snoozed in their beds in rental cars visiting San Francisco, New Orleans, Atlanta, New York, Santa Barbara, Portland, Seattle, Chicago, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Denver, Minneapolis, Billings and Ashland, Oregon, for our annual treks to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. They took trams to the mountain tops of Palm Desert and Breckenridge. Nick and Nora logged more than 50,000 airline miles with us in 16 years of travel. When I approached the airlines for doggie frequent flier miles, they thanked me for my "humorous appeal." I wasn't kidding, but alas, no points for the pups. Favorite times with them were at our country place in Montana where they scampered in  Nora, left, and Nick, always on alert, ever curious .   the woods, luxuriated with us under the aspen trees and chased after squirrels, mice and rabbits (catching only voles, of which we had an excess. They were a formidable tag team in their prime.) They loved our walks on the beach, too, chasing seagulls, sometimes soaking themselves as the tide came in.  They snoozed beneath tables at my writing workshops, endearing themselves to all. Nora's legacy THE BONDS we humans form with our pets are like no others.  The cliche "unconditional love" is true.  Nick and Nora never quarreled with us.  There were no disagreements, hurtful remarks, and the occasional disobedience and scolding were quickly forgiven and forgotten by both parties. The Yorkies traversed both east and west coasts, here in La Jolla, California, sporting fresh haircuts with Cookie.  Reminders of  him and his sister are everywhere. I put my cereal bowl on the floor for Nicky to lick. I saved part of my chicken breast for him, then caught myself.  The freezer is full of little Tupperware dishes of "Nicky Stew," a special enticement I made from hamburger, chicken liver, rice, broth and his prescription canned food. This morning I found treats in my shirt pocket, doggie bags in my jacket.  His leashes hang by the doors.  His bed is still on ours.  Others are throughout the house, including the one I'm resting my feet on. It will be the last to go.  NICKY LIVED  in the now.  He taught me kindness, forgiveness, anticipation. As he aged, he did so with peace, a wise, endearing, patient old pal who seemed to know nothing lasts forever.  He  loved being with us, and his adopted aunties -- Sue, in Yorkshire, England, and "Auntie Nannie" in San Diego.  Nannie took care of him many times, keeping a careful log of his antics and activities, loving him deeply as we did and do. Our last Christmas card with both pups -- Nick, left, and  Nora, in the lilacs of High Chaparral, near Nye, Montana . She wrote a lovely poem to honor him. WHEN MY baby brother Patrick died in February, then a friend's ancient pet passed in April, this superstitious Irish girl had a feeling that Nicky would be "the third," -- he might not be with us much longer. We'd hoped to get him back to Montana, to bury him there.  It was not to be. So I grab another tissue, placing his tiny box next to Nora's. Nine pounds of joy now ashes. The cremation people told me he wouldn't want me to be sad. I'm hanging on to that. He taught me how to live a better life, how to age with acceptance, how to die with grace.  The house is quiet now. In the sorrow and silence, it comforts me to find Nicky and Nora in my heart. (Compassionate cremation arrangements for Nicky were made by a lovely couple who helped me choose his favorite blankets, consoled me and gently took him from my shaky hands: www.rainbowbridgepetscremations.com ) Queen Elizabeth is center stage, at 96, surrounded by members of the Royal Family. UP NEXT : We celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's long reign on the throne of England -- a remarkable 70 years.  Cookie saw her coronation as a tot and has followed "The Royals" through her long career as a journalist and travel writer, even meeting members of the family at various state functions. Come along to London with us, during a four-day holiday to celebrate this remarkable woman, now 96. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on family, travel, nature, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com .  Do share the links!

Autumn arrives in the northern hemisphere. Here, Norway's  gentle slopes and hills resemble parts of Montana. FIND BEAUTY IN THE INEVITABLE CHANGE OF SEASONS “Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower. “ – Albert Camus STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The grass was just beginning to turn as autumn began earlier this month with Cookie and Keller in the Netherlands. WE LOVE to travel in autumn. The kids are back in school, the evening air is crisp and cool. There's something about autumn that makes us appreciate being alive. Perhaps it's the leaves falling, snows coming, change in the air. The combination makes us grateful. We in the northern hemisphere call it fall: the shedding of leaves from deciduous trees. Autumn is around the corner. If you believe the chill in the air, the need for a fire and the disappearance of the hummingbirds from the northern Rockies, it's fall already. Those vivid colors – the transition from green to light yellow, deep gold, orange, crimson and dark red – are inspiring, yet bittersweet. On a fall pilgrimage to southern Spain last fall. The balmy nights of summer and hot days of July and August are a sweet memory.  We see  The hollyhocks were late this year.  This one was photographed two days ago.  Its many buds may not bloom. grass growing golden, smell the sweet smoke of controlled burning and regret that summer flew by so quickly. Autumn came early to these trees on the West Fork of the Stillwater.  Falling leaves and the colors of the season have fascinated writers and poets for centuries. One of my favorite writers, Albert Camus, had a soft spot in his heart for fall.  Skeptical about many things, he was sentimental about fall and embraced autumn above the Autumn grass and a pair of strolling bison in Yellowstone National Park last week. Cookie takes time out to admire a lemon tree rich with autumn fruit in Crete. other seasons. He defined the human condition as absurd, and struggled to understand the conflict between man's desire for meaning and clarity and what he called "the silent, cold universe" on the other.  Apparently he found warmth and meaning in fall when he wrote, "Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is awakened." WE MAKE  an annual fall pilgrimage to Yellowstone National Park, Teddy Roosevelt's finest gift to the country and the world.  In autumn, it shines like a well loved tiara. Wildlife watching is prime.  We were thrilled to hear the elks' high-and-low pitch changing bugling. Musical mating calls in symphonic splendor. Haunting and memorable. Engineer-poet-lecturer Stanley Horowitz has an autumn take I love: "Winter is an etching, spring a watercolor, summer an oil painting and autumn a mosaic of them all.” My vow: to embrace autumn, invite it into my orbit. Please join me. The canals of Amsterdam are legendary, in this city below sea level. Here, we explore the waterways near the Anne Frank House. NEXT UP: Appealing Amsterdam.  Next week we begin a lively three-part look at one of the world's most engaging, progressive cities. We take you to  Amsterdam's canals and windmills, famous cafes and coffee shops, the red light district, and the famous hotel suite occupied by John Lennon and Yoko Ono 50 years ago during their "Peace In."   iamsterdam.com  ( official website of the city ) Finally, a rijsttafel feast, that wondrous concoction of many small courses brought to Holland during its sailing years in Indonesia. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family, food and more.  Go to  whereiscookie.com

A HOTEL WITH HEART, AMBIANCE, SOCIAL CONSCIENCE, TOP-NOTCH SERVICE The Pan Pacific Hotel's appointments are artful and Asian inspired, creating an atmosphere both soothing and stimulating.  Above, a view from the 10th floor elevator and at right, the tastefully decorated lobby. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THROUGH MY  years of travel, I've developed two hotel ratings lists --  "top ten" and "ten worst." It changes with new finds -- sublime inns and guest houses that do everything right. Then there are the occasional stinkers. Today, a find! A real treasure. A RECENT  visit to Seattle's seductive Pan Pacific has me adjusting my list.  Either Pan Pacific will replace one of the other outstanding discoveries, or my list will grow from Every staff member exhibits personality and concern for the guest, here Ryan Crosby greets Cookie at the hotel's entrance. Above left, the attractive neighborhood include community minded  philanthropies, such as the Bill and Melinda  Gates Foundation. Upscale restaurants,   Nordstrom's flagship, galleries amd boutiques are also near Pan Pacific.   "top ten" to "elegant eleven." Here's why: * PAN PACIFIC  looks beautiful and welcoming -- with tasteful contemporary art, live plants and pride in service!  A pretty outdoor dining and relaxing area beckons as a staff member welcomes you. The Pan Pacific specializes in personalized service, the kind well heeled businessmen and world travelers are accustomed to.  The staff conveys an authentic interest in the guest. From the moment we were picked up by Jason and the courtesy limo, to our departure a few days later, we felt pampered, cared about and part of the Pan Pacific family.  The front desk manager wished us safe travels as he escorted us to our car. * GUEST ROOMS  are spacious and handsomely decorated, with thought to relaxing colors and fabric, top technology and an artistic Asian American flair.  Because Pan Pacific Hotel and Resorts spans the Pacific Rim, the elegant chain showcases the art of that vast region from North America's west coast across Asia to the coastlines of Australia.  My first Pan Pacific stay was in Singapore years ago, and I was reminded in its Seattle property of the many genteel touches. (Ice for the rooms is stored in an attractive wooden chest, looking like a piece of furniture.) Some of the Pan Pacific's spacious suites have telescopes. * PAN PACIFIC  Hotel Seattle offers spectacular views including one of the attractive Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, the star of the progressive neighborhood.  We gazed at the Space Needle from sunrise coffee to sunset cocktails, relishing Seattle's gorgeous skyline with its multi-hued colors.  Located at 2200 Westlake Plaza, it's a superb location.  We walked a few steps to Whole Foods for wine and cheese. Nordstrom's (the flagship store), a fun deli, boutiques and a couple fun bars are within strolling distance.  We enjoyed a brisk and refreshing 20-minute walk to the pier to catch the ferry to  Seattle's colorful waterfront is near --  a few blocks of pleasant strolling. Bainbridge.  The property is only 20 auto minutes from Seattle Tacoma International Airport, and a few blocks from Seattle's efficient and much used high speed train, which travels to the airport in a speedy half hour. * THIS IS A hotel with a social conscience.  Seattle's Pan Pacific recycles gently used soaps and toiletries to a nearby women's shelter, observes the "use your towel again" green rule and donates "unpresented" excess food from the catering department to Seattle's hungry, through projects and shelters.  The energy efficient Pan Pacific has a "Social Responsibility Committee" whose thrust is "giving back to the community."  The property's savvy community relations manager Ryan Crosby says the operation is both civic minded and eco-friendly top to bottom -- even the building's shell and core were made from recycled materials. A fitness center, complete spa and whirlpool await. * PAN PACIFIC  is a well mannered inn. The staff is enlightened and gracious at every turn. The concierge mailed an art poster home for us, and made arrangements for a harbor cruise. The porter fetched us ice and brought a morning paper without our asking when he delivered our bags. It's obvious the staff enjoys its work and makes easy connections with guests.  Our drivers, concierge and waiters were personable, articulate and courteous, as was everyone we encountered. What an impression this makes. * AMENITIES , activities abound at Pan Pacific.  We happened to hit the Tuesday night wine tasting, when Pan Pacific invites vintners to set up shop and share their wares.  Locals and tourists mingled to sample both Washington and French wines near the fireplace.  Fun! We loved our room's Shoji screen doors, high-speed wireless, 42-inch flat screen TV and European soaking tub, added in a massive 2011 renovation. The state-of-the-art coffee maker actually steams the water, allowing for delicious coffee and tea in your robe and slippers, also provided at Pan Pacific.  Pan Pacific's pretty, eco-friendly bathrooms feature compact fluorescent lighting, dual flush toilets, low-flow shower heads and deep soaking tubs. *  PHYSICAL COMFORTS  lure guests.  A luxurious, upscale Vida Spa features 18 treatment rooms and every manner of engaging body and mind-nurturing offering.  A spacious fitness center tempted us, but we were having too much fun. Still, it's a must for long trips or the frequent business traveler, and several businessmen and women were working out in the 4,200 square foot facility, which is steps away from the lovely spa. Whirlpools and dry saunas are at your fingertips, too. * IF YOU  don't want to leave Pan Pacific, you don't have to.  The hotel offers 24-hour room service and a fabulous breakfast menu.  Our waiter, a native of Thailand, was gracious and accommodating and the The Pan Pacific's spacious rooms are elegant, comfy.  salmon omelettes, muffins and eggs Benedict were beautifully presented. The hotel's Seastar Restaurant and Raw Bar are award-winning. * BRING YOUR  pup! Hooray for Pan Pacific for devoting part of its splendid space to dog friendly digs.  Increasingly, the best hotels are doing this, and we met several friendly pups during our stay.  We promised our new friends we'd return with our beloved Yorkies, Nick and Nora.  Turns out the restaurant manager has Yorkies, too:  hers are Sophie and Annabel! * SPECIAL SPLURGE . If you really want to pamper yourself, Pan Pacific will tailor a wine tasting so you may select wines to accompany your meal (en suite or in the lovely restaurant.) Seastar's acclaimed Chef and owner John Howie, is hands on Seattle's acclaimed Space Needle may be seen from many parts of the hotel. with an international  menu that features fresh local ingredients, inspired seafood and meat offerings (the herbed halibut, melt-in-mouth tenderloin and spicy ahi are divine). Howie's global preparations are delivered with precision and flair. YOU MAY also sample tasty sushi, sashimi, ceviche, poke and freshly shucked oysters. Or if you wish to go light, try a tasty club sandwich, crisp and tangy Caesar salad or thick creamy soup. We celebrated Keller's birthday, toasting the Space Needle and our wish to return to this perfect property soon! For rates and reservations, email: ofcourse@panpacific.com or go to www.panpacificseattle www.panpacific.reservation counter.com 2125 Terry Avenue, Seattle, Wash., 98121. 1 800 992-2694. COMING UP:  Take a train ride into the wilds of Alaska, on Skagway's White Pass and Yukon Railway. Then join Cookie and Keller to mark "Cruise 100" -- with a tour of the Carnival Miracle bridge escorted by Captain Luca Lazzarino! Oh, yes, and a zillion-calorie cake is enjoyed by all! Plus a tribute to our beloved, adopted "Papa," Grady Martin, who turns 90 on Sept. 26. How did he manage life's ups and downs -- "mostly ups," he says.  The piece will post on his birthday eve, Sept. 25. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check out our posts at www.whereiscookie.com

One of two America's Cup racing sloops photographed by Bruce Keller, taken while he was sailing on the famed racing yacht, Stars and Stripes. THRILLS, CHILLS ON  CLASSIC BOAT AS GOAL IS REACHED  -- SAILOR CAPTURES DREAM, GLORY    An intrepid Cookie -- a bit shaky -- accepts a hand getting on the yacht, while crew and other passengers prepare to set sail. For Cookie, it was a terrifying if fascinating journey. Keller was in his element. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WHEN SAN Diego was proud defender of the America's Cup and Dennis Connor became an international hero, a young Bruce Keller had dreams to sail the famous boat. That famous race was in 1987, when Connor and his San Diego crew recaptured the world's most prestigious sailing trophy for the U.S. Aboard Stars and Stripes, Keller took a break from sailing the vessel to photograph the boat heeled over as we sailed into the wind.  It has been Keller's dream to sail one of these classic yachts. "I was in love with the ocean as a kid. I loved Sea Scouts and followed all the big races.  Plus Dennis Connor is a San Diego native like myself." The race was important and well publicized because Connor was not only a gifted sailor but was famous for his charismatic dealing with challenges on the water. The race took place in February when Keller, a building contractor and designer, was working on a renovation project in a client's house. His building crew tuned into the race on the TV,  cheering Connor and his crew on through a series of eliminations, excited as they advanced toward the final series of races.  SO WHEN Keller saw an ad for an America's Cup ride, a unique sailing adventure in St. Maarten, he was thrilled. He booked an outing for two aboard Stars and Stripes, one of two authentic America's Cup race boats on the island.  The ad promised we'd have "the most unique and immersive experience in the Caribbean, guaranteed to leave you breathless, exhilarated and feeling like a sailing pro!" I ADMIT my knowledge of sailing is minimal. My fear of drowning is enormous.  So why would I do this, when I'm afraid to get my head wet in a swimming pool? Sheets in sailing lingo, are used to adjust the sails. I had a smaller orange rope to cling to . Because I was honoring a promise of almost 18 years ago. Keller agreed to take tango lessons and ballroom dancing classes if I'd learn to sail and join him on his waterborne adventures. So it was only fair. And there we were on a cruise ship, docked in Philipsburg, the main town and capital of St. Maarten, on the Dutch side of this lovely island in the Caribbean. It was meant to be, Keller said. AS WE journeyed out on the waters, the crew sensed my apprehension. They gave me an orange rope to grasp, and I used it -- boy did I use it! We'd signed the usual waivers absolving the outfit of responsibility should anything unfortunate occur. But I had no idea I'd be clinging for dear life to my "sissy rope" as Keller called it.  It comforted me beyond measure as the boat tilted and jerked into the waves, first one side, then the other. But while I was terrified, Keller was in his element -- beaming, laughing, enjoying the sea spray on his face.  My jaw was clenched as I licked my lips and bit my tongue, tasting salt water, promising the gods I'd be a better person if I survived.  Stars and Stripes is living out her life in St. Maarten, where she thrills passengers each day. SO WHEN Keller saw an ad for a sailing adventure in St. Maarten, he was thrilled. He booked an outing for two aboard Stars and Stripes, one of two authentic America's Cup race boats on the island.  The ad promised we'd have "the most unique and immersive experience in the Caribbean, guaranteed to leave you breathless, exhilarated and feeling like a sailing pro!"  I ADMIT  my knowledge of sailing is minimal. My fear of drowning is enormous.  So why would I do this, when I'm afraid to get my head wet in a swimming pool? Keller and Cookie smile aboard America's Cup. Cookie is relieved to have survived the two-hour outing. Sheets in sailing lingo, are used to adjust the sails. I had a smaller orange rope to cling to . Because I was honoring a promise of almost 18 years ago. Keller agreed to take tango lessons and ballroom dancing classes if I'd learn to sail and join him on his waterborne adventures. So it was only fair. And there we were on a cruise ship, docked in Philipsburg, the main town and capital of St. Maarten, on the Dutch side of this lovely island in the Caribbean. It was meant to be, Keller said. AS WE  journeyed out on the waters, the crew sensed my apprehension. They gave me an orange rope to grasp, and I used it -- boy did I use it! We'd signed the usual waivers absolving the outfit of responsibility should anything unfortunate occur. But I had no idea I'd be clinging for dear life to my "sissy rope" as Keller called it.  It comforted me beyond measure as the boat tilted and jerked into the waves, first one side, then the other. But while I was terrified, Keller was in his element -- beaming, laughing, enjoying the sea spray on his face.  My jaw was clenched as I licked my lips and bit my tongue, tasting salt water, promising the gods I'd be a better person if I survived.  THE LEGENDARY 12-meter class race boats are the thoroughbreds of the racing world. The two yachts in St. Maarten are both America’s Cup participants and represent, Keller says, "the culmination of multi-million dollar efforts and years of testing to achieve maximum speed and agility."We were sailing at only seven miles an hour, Keller said, nothing compared to the 50 mph the latest AC70 racing vessels can reach. "In our same breeze, an America's Cup boat could reach 50 miles per hour," Keller said, winking. "We were taking it relatively easy." We were "across the waves" from Zhaveri, one of two racing boats giving tours in St. Maarten.   Easy for him to say.  I was white knuckled for the entire two-hour adventure.  My Dennis Connor aficionado was happy as a clam.  He reflected that we were lucky to the experience, because the sailing competition has changed.  Publicity surrounding Connor's exploits with America's Cup created international interest and chaperoned in the end of an era when millionaires raced.  "But now it's only billionaires competing in the current era of high-tech boats,"  Keller observed. He laments that the sport has become a hobby of a tiny percentage of sailors, catering only to the extremely rich. AS FOR ME , well, I am happy to have survived the adventure, and am not certain I'll do it again. But wait, could that mean that Keller would no longer join me on the dance floor? In that case, I'll review the situation, put on my big girl sailing pants and dare to join him for another ride into the unknown. "It's good for you to stretch yourself," he says. Meanwhile, I'm booking us another round of rhumba lessons. www.12metre.com   www.visitstmaarten.com The iconic Hollywood sign photographed from Griffith Observatory, where we visited Monday just before the fires. UP NEXT:  As wildfires destroy homes, landscape and some famous landmarks, we take readers to Los Angeles where we are frequent visitors. We have "before and after" photos of places we love, some of which were just burned.  We consider ourselves lucky to have escaped, returning to San Diego undamaged. This column occasionally departs from travel and art features to follow breaking news. So as the wild fires rage, and thousands of homes are destroyed, we present an overview. Many places are closed, including the Getty museums we just toured and activities at the famous Santa Monica Pier closed Thursday. One of our favorite wine bars and restaurants burned, a famous high school has fire damage and we'll feature other sad results of the fires which have caused an estimated $57 billion in loss so far. Take time today to reflect on this beloved and famous place in our country and culture and send good thoughts while remembering to explore, learn and live..