YORKIES WILL TURN TEN THIS YEAR! PAWS UP FOR OUR FAITHFUL COMPANIONS AND ROAD WARRIORS Nick and Nora enjoy a recent trip to Glacier National Park in Montana. The Dancing Bear Inn is dog friendly. Nick and Nora Charles, after whom Nick and Nora, the Yorkies, are named. Here they are (Myrna Loy and William Powell) with their dog Asta. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NICK AND NORA are our children. No, we're not deluded. We're fully aware that they are dogs and we are humans. We know that I did not give birth to these two adorable Yorkshire terriers. We realize they're canines -- and, dear to us as they are -- we face the fact that they will likely not live as long as we will. Still, I call them "our final dogs," hoping they will coast gently into their dotage as we do ours. THEY ARE not my physical offspring, but I have nurtured, raised and coddled them. Nick and Nora on a Montana ranch patio -- all eyes and ears. Nick and Nora on the desert in Phoenix. Nick and Nora are a part of our personal and professional lives, here at a writing workshop on a ranch near Harlowton. I've nursed them from the jaws of death (rattlesnake bites, grizzly bear encounters, run-ins with the gravel truck, a near fatal pit bull attack, a wheelchair run-over, a half-dozen illnesses, plus sprained legs and collapsing trachea, both common ailments of the Yorkie breed). I'VE SPENT far more on vet bills than I have on my own medical care, and Nick and Nora have every shot and vaccination they could possibly need. Nick's awake but Nora's napping at the Omni in Los Angeles. he hotel welcomes well behaved doggies, and offers amenities for them. I named them after that dapper couple invented by Dashiell Hammett, of "The Thin Man," fame. I've long admired that 1934 portrait of the elegant, crime-solving couple who tackeled mystery with martinis and wisecracks. Myrna Loy's Nora was always gorgeous and William Powell's Nick suave and debonair, even in the haze of one martini too many. The fact that Loy was born in Helena, Montana, added to the charm. So Nick and Nora it would be. Since 2005, they've traveled the California coast with us on road trips. They've flown back and forth between our Beartooth place in Montana and our San Diego town house. They've visited Atlanta, Las Vegas, New York, New Orleans, Los Angeles, Phoenix and San Francisco with us, staying in dog friendly hotels, delighting other guests. Nick and Nora with Keller, here Oceanside Harbor, California. They've also sailed Mission Bay, San Diego, and elsewhere. Nick and Nora at the dog friendly Vagabond Bed and Breakfast in Carmel, California. IF THE AIRLINES awarded miles for doggie travel, Nick and Nora would have logged over 50,000 miles each in their action-packed near decade. Except for Europe, Asia or South America, they go where we go, by plane or car. They're happy little road-trippers. We've kept track of the best of the "dog friendly" hotels we've visited and estimate that Nick and Nora have bedded down in at least 75 hotels, motels and inns, besides many relatives' homes. They've sailed Mission Bay and San Francisco Bay with us. When they were tiny, we smuggled them into movies. Nick, Nora (Nora's on the left) with Cookie sailing in San Diego. THEIR LOYALTY and love are worth the weight of gold-plated Yorkie kibbles. We brush their teeth, comb their hair, talk gently to them, hoping they'll grace us with another decade of devotion. They truly are "the children" and we are humbled by their presence. Nick and Nora Charles were fabulously wealthy. Our Nick and Nora give us far more than money can ever hope to buy. Keller inspects the groundwork for a bedroom addition at friends' home. COMING UP: We're off to Cody, Wyo., to teach another workshop and sign "Lilian's Last Dance." Then we're back to rural south-central Montana for a remodeling project, one that taxes the brain and the body equally. It's a hectic, happening summer here in the Beartooths. Coming up, a "Cody connection" and construction woes and wonders at www.whereiscookie.com Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us weekends and Wednesdays for fun travel tips and more on cruising, hotels, dining, living well and the arts.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Nick is surrounded by flowers on his 16th birthday. Even though he was virtually blind and had painful spinal and rear leg issues, he was still game for a walk, a snuggle, a kiss for his people. Nothing like a Yorkie kiss: Nicky was a generous kisser, here with his appreciative mama, Cookie. A dog's long, lively life : Nicky lives on in our hearts, a fearless, loving Yorkie FOR THE first time in 17 years, I sit at the computer with no doggie at my feet. Nicky has crossed the Rainbow Bridge to join his sister, Nora. He is deeply missed. His favorite blue bed sits under the desk. He'd wander over for a little lie-down when he heard me there (he had a half-dozen beds around the house, one in each room.) He'd nestle down and snooze. He liked it when I touched his nose with my bare toe, to signal "I'm here. Love you, little guy." Last Days of a dog's long, lively life Lately, he'd been sleeping more. Since his twin sister Nora died two years ago at not quite 15, Nicky declined. He paced, wandered the house, looked for her. We kept the bed they shared and one of her little coats for him to sniff. He often did, and cuddled with her familiar toys and blankets. He whimpered, he mourned. He cried, yes cried. I asked three vets about his behavior. They assured me that dogs grieve as we do, to give him time. Puppies Nora, left, and Nicky, learned to swim when months old, here drying off in Davis, Calif. GRADUALLY, HE rebounded from his sister's departure, but his body was failing. Like old people, he had meds: Rimadyl for osteoporosis and painful spine and back legs, Cosequin to help him move and support his weary joints; fish oil with his kibble; treats fortified with calcium and glucosamine; doggie Xanax for car rides, which had become increasingly difficult. He'd pace and whine in the car. Our once idyllic road trips were no longer the fun they'd been before his anxiety. His back legs were shaky when he woke up and it took him a couple hours to move without stumbling or collapsing. He was virtually blind and took his cues from us on walks, around corners, on steps in parks and gardens. Bruce Keller, Nora, Cookie and Nicky at Lake Tahoe. The two dogs logged many travel miles. A dog's long, lively life was winding down. He stopped jumping up on the couch and needed our help getting up and down the stairs, but he still took walks with us twice and day and even ran the last half-block home, leaving us huffing and puffing to keep up. He knew to stop at our house. By magic doggie braille he'd strut through the front door and bound into the house. NICKY DIED this past weekend, in friends' backyard. I regret that I was not with him but must believe he knows how we love and miss him. Nick personified the Yorkie profile -- smart, loyal, playful, fearless. He survived many accidents: a rattlesnake bite, a run-in with a grizzly bear, leaps from second-story decks in two different homes after squirrels and birds. When he was four, he was run over by a Keller with Nick, Nora on an outing in Oceanside, near our California home. speeding gravel truck resulting in a serious hematoma on his intrepid Yorkie head. Thanks to our fabulous Montana veterinarian, Rex, he lived to tell the tale. He jumped out of the moving Explorer three times, in pursuit of horses, turkeys and deer. Cookie with Nick, Nora on Mission Bay, in San Diego. The Yorkies loved to sail. WHEN HE and Nora were two years old, he took on three off-leash pit bulls who attacked me and his twin sister. She was nearly killed and was hospitalized for weeks. I needed two skin grafts on my arm, but Nicky escaped with a bite on his right ear. The nurse and doctor who rescued us in an Arizona park were drawn to the scene by my screams and the sight of Nicky atop the growling dogs, who'd pinned Nora and me down. Recently, he recovered from serious pancreatitis with the help of a couple antibiotics and our TLC. Nicky, left, and Nora, at Santa Barbara pier. Our favorite Keller photo of Nora, left, and Nick, always on alert, ever curious, on alert for a pat or treat. Below, Cookie and pups at the beach. THESE TWO endearing, adorable little friends traveled thousands of miles with us. They rode trains, sailed in boats, snoozed in their beds in rental cars visiting San Francisco, New Orleans, Atlanta, New York, Santa Barbara, Portland, Seattle, Chicago, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Denver, Minneapolis, Billings and Ashland, Oregon, for our annual treks to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. They took trams to the mountain tops of Palm Desert, Red Lodge and Breckenridge. Nick and Nora logged more than 50,000 airline miles with us in 16 years of travel. When I approached the airlines for doggie frequent flier miles, they thanked me for my "humorous appeal." I wasn't kidding, but alas, no points for the pups. Favorite times with them were at our country place in Montana where they scampered in the woods, luxuriated with us under the aspen trees and chased after squirrels, mice and rabbits (catching only voles, of which we had an excess. They were a formidable tag team in their prime.) They loved our walks on the beach, too, chasing seagulls, sometimes soaking themselves as the tide came in. They snoozed beneath tables at my writing workshops, endearing themselves to all. THE BONDS we humans form with our pets are like no others. The cliche "unconditional love" is true. Nick and Nora never quarreled with us. There were no disagreements, hurtful remarks, and occasional reprimands were quickly forgiven and forgotten by both parties. Reminders of him and his sister are everywhere. I put my cereal bowl on the floor for Nicky to lick. I saved the last of my chicken breast for him, then caught myself. The freezer is full of little Tupperware dishes of "Nicky Stew," a special enticement I made from hamburger, chicken liver, rice, broth and his prescription canned food. I just found treats in my shirt pocket, doggie bags in my jacket. His leashes hang by the door. His bed is still on ours. Others remain, including the one I'm resting my feet on. It will be the last to go. NICKY LIVED in the now. The Yorkies taught me kindness, forgiveness, anticipation. As Nick aged, he did so with peace. He was a wise, endearing, patient old pal who seemed to know nothing lasts forever. He loved being with us, and his adopted aunties -- Sue, in Yorkshire, England, and "Auntie Nannie" in San Diego. Nannie took care of him many times, keeping a careful log of his antics and activities, loving him deeply as we did and do. Our last Christmas card with both pups -- Nick, left, and Nora, in the lilacs of High Chaparral, near Nye, Montana. She wrote a lovely poem to honor him. WHEN MY baby brother Patrick died in February, then a friend's ancient pet passed in April, this superstitious Irish girl had a feeling that Nicky would be "the third," -- he might not be with us much longer. We'd hoped to get him back to Montana to bury him. It was not to be. So I grab another tissue, placing his tiny box next to Nora's. Nine pounds of joy now ashes. The cremation people told me he wouldn't want me to be sad. I'm hanging on to that. He taught me how to live a better life, how to age with acceptance, how to die with grace. The house is quiet now. In my sorrow, I find comfort in keeping Nicky and Nora in my heart. (Compassionate cremation arrangements for Nicky were made by a lovely couple who helped me choose his favorite blankets, consoled me and gently took him from my shaky hands: www.rainbowbridgepetscremations.com) ******************************************************************************************** Queen Elizabeth waves at the crowd during the celebration of her record royal reign. UP NEXT: We celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's long reign on the throne of England -- a remarkable 70 years. Cookie saw her coronation as a tot and has followed "The Royals" through her long career as a journalist and travel writer, even meeting members of the family at various state functions. Come along to London with us, during a four-day holiday to celebrate this remarkable woman, now 96. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on family, travel, nature, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com. Do share the links!

ENJOY THE REAGAN LIBRARY FOR A WELL ORCHESTRATED TRIBUTE TO A DEDICATED PRESIDENT Flowers are placed at the foot of Reagan's bronze each day, a docent told us, by an anonymous donor. During the weeks after Nancy Reagan's death and burial on the site, the number of bouquets grew. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Perched on a hilltop overlooking the rolling landscapes of Simi Valley, California, the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library is a destination where history and travel come together. A visit takes you beyond the headlines and into the life and times of Ronald Reagan, with fascinating exhibits, photographs, personal belongings, historic aircraft, and stories from his years as California governor and the 40th president of the United States. Even for travelers who don't consider themselves history buffs, the library offers an engaging experience and the setting alone makes the drive worthwhile. The approach to the Reagan Presidential Library is typically "southern California" with a lovely fountain, mosaic tiles and nicely kept gardens. WE WERE among a recent full house to pay our respects to the colorful and charismatic world leader, spending a pleasant and informative afternoon perusing his 100,000-square foot memorial. Its 24 wide- ranging galleries include a full-sized replica of the Oval Office as he and Nancy decorated it, and the actual Air Force One aircraft used by Reagan and six other presidents as their "Flying White House." Keller prepares to board Air Force One, the actual plane which carried Reagan and other presidents around the world. WE ARE far from die-hard Republicans, but then Reagan himself dabbled a bit in the "pick your party" game. Raised in a Republican neighborhood in Illinois, by liberal Democrat parents, he was a Democrat himself until age 50. So his politics was not an issue in our decision to visit this lovely and historic site. (We've visited others of the 13 Presidential libraries, which began with President Franklin D. Roosevelt. This is by far the most impressive.) You can join Reagan for a horseback ride, as Cookie did, in one exhibit. Our favorite sentimental parts of the eclectic and well curated display had to do with the relationship between Ronnie and Nancy. Everyone knows that she was instrumental in grooming his political career, and in influencing decisions large and small that shaped his career both as governor and as president. The Berlin Wall's history is documented along with Reagan's famous "tear down that wall" appeal. Visitors number in the millions, but the museum does not feel crowded. Here people cue up to step inside the actual Air Force One Reagan used. SOME OF THE NOTES he wrote to her are displayed, and many photos of the two together -- dancing at the inaugurals, riding horseback, visiting world figures, including the Pope, and simply spending time together. Their constant and abiding love and affection is one of the enduring legacies the couple left. Their amazing partnership is a touching part of the library, which they both helped create and which she refined and enhanced after his death in 2004. Mrs. Reagan's candor in her long, devoted care of her husband through his 10-year decline is also noted. And among the famous photos and newsreels are several of the Reagans after the attempt on his life. Here, a dummy sits in the Air Force One office, where Reagan worked. Below right, a changing exhibit features the Vatican's Swiss Guards. Focus on Reagan's International Role as a Successful Ambassador Our favorite "history" parts of the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library had to do with Reagan's international role in forging a path of peace. His impassioned appeal to "tear down that wall" echo in the display about Berlin. There is always another fascinating place to discover, and that is what makes travel so much fun. At WhereIsCookie.com, we look beyond the obvious attractions to share the places, experiences, history, culture, food, and unexpected treasures that can make a trip memorable. Whether you're planning a weekend getaway, a road trip, or a journey somewhere far from home, follow WhereIsCookie.com for travel stories, personal recommendations, helpful tips, and inspiration for your next adventure. The Reagan Museum also features lectures and changing exhibits. Currently on show is "Vatican Splendors," a splendid collection of Vatican art. Come along with Cookie -- we'll show you where to go and why it's worth the trip! Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, history, performance, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Helix Bridge over calm water at night, with Marina Bay Sands and golden city buildings glowing in the background, a spectacular sight in Singapore, a clean and exciting city. Cruising Asia on Norwegian Sun, Part 1: Singapore to Bali Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" Some destinations deserve more than a quick visit. Singapore is one of them. Rather than flying halfway around the world to immediately board a ship, we arrived four days early to adjust to the time change, recover from the long flight and savor a favorite place. Singapore is one of the world's cleanest and most exciting cities so it was a smart travel decision. Visitors walk toward Cenotaph Pavilion at Tugu Negara, the national monument, in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The golden-domed memorial pavilion is adorned with Malaysian flags After four fun days in Singapore, we boarded Norwegian Cruise Line's Norwegian Sun for a fascinating fascinating 12-day voyage through Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia before arriving in beautiful Bali. Along the way, we discovered fascinating cultures, delectable food, welcoming people, exquisite crafts, thrilling dance and captivating monkeys. We made new friends, reminding us why cruising is a terrific way to see the world. Life Aboard Norwegian Sun Before talking about the ports, allow us to mention what makes the journey between destinations enjoyable. The Sun is a beautifully designed ship with all the comforts of home and quickly became our floating home. The crew greeted us with genuine smiles each day, and before long many knew our names and favorite drinks. That personal touch made the large ship feel surprisingly intimate. Keller and Cookie beside Norwegian Sun as she prepares to leave Singapore under a clear blue sky. Dining was a highlight from morning until night. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, sampled international favorites in the lunch buffet and treated ourselves to specialty restaurants. Fresh seafood, excellent steaks, Asian specialties, Italian cuisine and irresistible desserts tempted us daily. Evenings were filled with Broadway-style productions, live music, comedy, talented musicians performing throughout the ship, and plenty of opportunities to dance or simply relax with a cocktail while watching the ocean drift by. Sea days never felt boring. With lectures, live music, fitness activities, shopping and simply enjoying the sunshine or reading on deck, there was always something happening. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in front of the Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, under a light blue sky, with a skybridge behind them. Perhaps best of all were the people we met. Cruising brings like minded travelers together. Over meals, excursions and evening entertainment we met couples from around the world, with promises to stay in touch long after the cruise ended. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Our first stop brought us to Kuala Lumpur, a city where modern skyscrapers stand alongside historic neighborhoods and colorful markets. The famous Petronas Twin Towers dominate the skyline, while nearby temples, mosques, and colonial architecture tell the story of Malaysia's diverse heritage. It was an excellent introduction to Southeast Asia, blending old and new in a natural way. Friendly locals and delicious Malaysian cuisine made us wish we had more time to explore. Another plus for cruising: one decides where to return. Penang and George Town Penang quickly became one of our favorite ports. George Town, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is often described as the cultural heart of Malaysia, and it's easy to understand why. Keller and Cookie beside Norwegian Sun as she prepares to leave Singapore under a clear blue sky. The streets are filled with beautifully preserved colonial buildings, colorful street art, Chinese temples, Indian shrines, and bustling food markets. Walking through George Town feels like stepping into several cultures at once, making Penang a true melting pot where history, architecture, and incredible food come together. Langkawi, Malaysia Langkawi offered an entirely different experience. Instead of bustling cities, we found lush green mountains, quiet beaches, and crystal-clear waters. This tropical island is known for its relaxed atmosphere and stunning scenery. Whether enjoying the coastline, shopping duty-free, or simply soaking up the views, Langkawi provided the perfect opportunity to slow down and appreciate nature. Phuket, Thailand Phuket welcomed us with beautiful beaches, lively markets, and the warm hospitality Thailand is famous for. Colorful temples, long-tail boats bobbing in the harbor, and excellent Thai food created a perfect day. Even with only a port visit, Phuket gave us a wonderful taste of why Thailand remains one of the world's favorite vacation destinations. Close-up of a black civet with wide eyes sniffing red coffee cherries scattered on the ground, looking curious. The controversial coffee bean, which passes through the animal's digestive system, is expensive and rare and considered by many the world's best coffee. Cruising Asia: Singapore to Bali A Coffee Unlike Any Other One unusual discovery during our journey involved one of the world's most expensive coffees -- kopi luwak. The coffee beans are eaten by a small animal, the Asian palm civet, a nocturnal mammal sometimes mistaken for a rodent. After passing through the animal's digestive system, the beans are collected, cleaned, roasted, and brewed into a rare coffee. While the process may sound unusual, many coffee enthusiasts consider it one of the smoothest coffees available. Whether you're adventurous enough to try it or simply enjoy learning about unique local traditions, it's certainly one of Southeast Asia's most talked-about culinary curiosities. Mother monkey cradles her offspring in Bali's Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary in the village of Padangtegal in the heart of Ubud, Bali, Indonesia; the park is in a lush forest popular with locals and tourists alike Another animal highlight was a visit to Ubud's peaceful Sacred Monnkey Forest Sanctuary. It is home to over 1,200 free-roaming Balinese long-tailed macaques and three 14th-century moss-covered Hindu temples set in a lush 27-acre jungle Jakarta, Indonesia Jakarta introduced us to Indonesia's enormous capital city, where modern business districts meet centuries of history. Busy streets, impressive monuments, museums, and vibrant neighborhoods showcase the diversity and energy of a city that serves as the gateway to one of the world's largest island nations. Semarang, Indonesia Two women in orange and yellow hijabs prepare coffee outdoor in Semarang, stirring beans and grinding spices beside woven trays, during a fascinating village tour. We bought spices here. Semarang offered a more relaxed pace and another glimpse into Indonesia's rich cultural heritage. Delightful people set up shops near historic Dutch colonial architecture. We enjoyed a glimpse into Indonesian life, while nearby temples and an excursion into the country revealed the history of Central Java. Each Indonesian port has a unique personality. Surabaya, Indonesia Surabaya, Indonesia's second-largest city, provided an interesting combination of history and modern development. Beautiful waterfront areas, historic buildings, lively markets, and friendly residents made for an enjoyable visit. Like every stop along our itinerary, the people we met left lasting impressions, as much as the attractions themselves. Arrival in Bali After nearly two memorable weeks and two welcome and relaxing sea days, our arrival in Bali was the perfect ending to this first chapter of our adventure. Known worldwide for its breathtaking scenery, beautiful beaches, artistic traditions, and spiritual culture, Bali captured our imagination. Palm trees line the coastline, colorful temples dot the landscape and every view seem worthy of a postcard. But for us, Bali wasn't the end. It was the beginning of our next adventure. Tourists climb steps leading toward Pura Prajapati, one of the three major 14th-century Hindu temples in Padangtegal village, Ubud, Bali. Bali is rich in forests, temples, dragons and monuments. Up Next: Our 12-day voyage aboard Norwegian Sun was both fun and educational. From Singapore's futuristic skyline to Malaysia's cultural treasures, Thailand's tropical beauty and the diversity of Indonesia, every day brought discovery. We are NCL regulars, for its fine dining and service, top entertainment and relaxation while exploring fascinating destinations. Next week, our adventure, "Cruising Asia -- Singapore to Bali" continues to part two. Our "back to back" cruises on from Bali to Brisbane, Australia. We'll walk among rare Komodo dragons, the world's largest living lizards, in Komodo National Park, marvel at the 9th-century Borobudur Temple in Central Java, a UNESCO World Heritage site and stunning Buddhist monument. Our journey aboard Norwegian Sun continues across the Timor Sea, to fascinating ports in Australia, ending in a favorite city, lively and beautiful Brisbane. If this destination sparked your wanderlust, there’s plenty more waiting for you. Explore more travel stories and inspiration at WhereIsCookie.com

Michael Toia is the full time piano tuner at Montana's acclaimed Tippet Rise Art Center. He keeps the priceless piano collection in top form. Here he tunes the writer's upright on a rare day off. Veteran fisherman Toia combined tuning with a fishing trip! HAWAII'S 'PIANO MAN' SPENDS SUMMERS TUNING MONTANA ART CENTER'S RARE COLLECTION Eyes and ears alert, Toia prepares a piano for a Tippet Rise concert. He is a virtuoso tuner. Editor's Note: This article was updated Aug. 29, 2026 to honor Michael Toia, who died two years ago in a car accident near Columbus, Montana. Toia touched many musical hearts. At the Aug. 28 Tippet Rise concert acclaimed Russian born pianist Yulianna Avdeeva paid tribute to Toia with a beautifully played Chopin mazurka encore. He was instrumental in the acoustically perfect live recording at the Center and became a dear friend. "Let us all remember Mike today," she said with emotion, before a standing ovation. Story By By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" EACH MORNING, when Michael Toia wakes up, he pinches himself. "I feel so fortunate to be in this beautiful place, doing something I love," says the gentle spoken piano tuner, avid fisherman and nature lover. Toia is in Montana this summer, as he has been for all three season at the internationally acclaimed Tippet Rise Art Center near Fishtail. He is charged with keeping the Center's priceless collection of Steinways in tune to be played by world class musicians for a privileged small audience each weekend in August and September. Master tuner, Michael Toia, is at work in the Tiara Acoustic Shell, an outdoor concert venue at Tippet Rise Art Center. Each concert signals a tuning and Toia is an expert. For Toia, it's a dream come true. His two passions -- pianos and fishing -- are fulfilled each summer. Based at the nature inspired, art filled art center -- praised for its unique blending of landscape, art and music -- Toia helps musicians record and perform at their best, through his gift of tuning priceless pianos. The Center is known for its pastoral setting, a stunning repertoire and large sculptural pieces. Toia fell into the job, "the perfect gig," as he calls it, by being in the proverbial right place at the right time. "It's a special location. Can't beat it," he says. Toia at work in the Olivier Music Barn at Tippet Rise. Pianos and fishing are his passions. "I was asked by the Halsteads (center founders Peter and Cathy) to tune one of their pianos in Hawaii, where I live" says Toia. "They asked if I'd be interested in coming to Montana. It's worked out." THE BIG ISLAND of Hawaii is Toia's home for nine months of the year, as he tunes pianos for a living, flying from one island to the other for jobs. His largest client is the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints -- the Mormon Church -- whose history in the islands dates back to 1850. Their Polynesian Cultural Center is one of many Mormon owned and operated venues. Toia tunes all their pianos and takes on the occasional additional client. Michael Toia casts off on the West Fork of the Stillwater River. He is an excellent avid fisherman, too. Both fishing and his piano tuning draw on his perfectionism and patience. His wife Anne Toia, is a successful massage therapist and their son, Mika'ele, is a proud second-generation piano tuner based in Minneapolis. Occasionally, father and son collaborate on a tuning project, as recently when the elder Toia and Anne flew to Minneapolis where the Minnesota Orchestra is one of Michael's clients. The couple raised their son and daughter on the big island, where Mount Kilauea's damage is testing their fortitude. Smoke and fall-out from the volcano, and nearby destruction of homes and hotels, has the couple re-evaluating their future in their beloved Hawaii. For now, they're waiting Kilauea out. With the deftness of a surgeon, Toia repairs and replaces the felt on a pad of the writer's piano. ONE THING is sure, though. As long as Toia is asked back to Montana, he will continue tuning the Tippet Rise pianos. Whenever he has a free day -- which is rare -- he is off fishing south-central Montana's prime rivers and streams. Fish, tour or tune, pianos are part of his world all 12 months of the year. When he returns each season to Tippet Rise, he has the world's finest pianos literally at his practiced fingertips. "Because Steinway grand pianos are crafted by hand, it can take a year -- hours and hours of fine-tuned labor -- to make one," he says. "Tuning an instrument of that precision and quality is equally demanding." That painstaking, several-hour process pays homage to the craftspeople who came before. Toia says Tippet Rise is a treasure trove of Steinways: a dozen of them, each extraordinary, "each with its own nuances and attributes." (For more information on the impressive collection of Tippet Rise pianos, check out essays written by TR co-founder, Peter Halstead.) WE HAVE THE good fortune to occasionally spend time at our home with Toia, who offered to tune our vintage Boston-made McPhail. Watching him is to watch a master at work. With the skill of a surgeon, he tunes, listens, repairs. He apprenticed this column's photographer, contracting engineer Bruce Keller, to assist him. Keller provided additional tools from his own elaborate workshop. It was a joy to watch the two collaborate in the extensive project. Piano tuner Michael Toia in inspiring to watch at work, here on the writer's vintage upright McPhail. Our McPhail may not have as many parts as the 12,000 Steinway has. But Toia pronounced it "a jewel" and urged us to hang on to it. It is one of seven pianos in my collection, modest compared to the grand assemblage at Tippet Rise, which includes an instrument once owned by acclaimed classical pianist Vladimir Horowitz. Toia, who plays piano himself, but rarely for an audience, says he is inspired by the unique blending of nature, music and art at Tippet Rise. Waking up in a cabin designed for him by the Halsteads, surrounded by the world's finest pianos -- and abundant trout streams -- is, Toia says, "about the best gig a guy could have." Pianos, he added, are something like people in their complexity -- "each one is different. Peter says each piano has its own DNA. He's right." Toia doesn't usually tune pianos outside Tippet Rise in Montana, but should you need a tune-up in Hawaii, look for Michael Toia Piano Service. More on the Tippet Rise pianos at: tippetrise.org/stories/the-pianos-of-tippet-rise Harvey's in Lake Tahoe offers elegant furnishings, proximity to gambling and fine dining, and spectacular scenery right out the window. More on it and Lake Tahoe next week. UP NEXT: Take a scenic weekend ride with us to Harvey's, a lovely property on beautiful Lake Tahoe, where the scenery is exquisite all year -- summer to autumn, winter to spring. Now's the transition time from warm-weather sports to skiing and snowboarding, with the first snows possible in September -- any time after Labor Day, old timers say. Remember to explore, learn and live, and wake up with a view of the land and a song in your heart. Please share the link, and check us out weekly for fresh insights on performance, nature, travel and more. We welcome suggestions and comments: www.whereiscookie.com

The Flavel House and Heritage Museum in Astoria, Oregon, is one of Astoria's proudest structures. It is named after Captain George Flavel, early day Astoria ship captain who navigated the Columbia. He was also an entrepreneur and the city's first millionaire. The museum has tours and a gift shop. Astoria - "Little San Francisco": First American settlement West of the Rockies, Astoria has it all, a must see Oregon city to visit STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Astoria's trolley is popular with locals as well as the lively tourist trade. A Ride on the Astoria Trolley makes seeing the highlights a breeze The Astoria Column was restored to celebrate Astoria's Bicentennial 1811 to 2011. Several fund-raising endeavors rescued the historic piece. JOHN JACOB ASTOR never made it to the charming Pacific Northwest town that bears his name. But the millionaire's investment in the region's booming fur trade in the early nineteenth century left an important legacy. Based at Fort Astoria, the Pacific Fur Company established several other posts in the Columbia River Basin The beautifully situated Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa welcomes guests on the scenic Columbia River. Several intriguing hotels including Bowline await. ASTORIA remains a vital 21st Century town, proud of its distinction as the first American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. While the town carefully preserves links to its early 19th Century founding, it also offers "big city" pleasures with fine dining, a world class maritime museum and the beautiful, award-winning Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa, with its bird's eye views of the mighty Columbia River. Astoria's Bowline Hotel is also on the river and looks lovely. Locals and tourists enjoy a popular trolley and carefully restored Victorian and Craftsman hillside homes dot the hills. The town boasts variety and vintage, attractive contemporary buildings which blend nicely with historic homes. The town rose on prime land on the south shore of the Columbia River, near the Pacific. The legacy of the first John Jacob Astor lives on in well kept residences, a graceful mix of offices, shops, eateries and a lovely tower known as the Astoria Column. BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED in several recent fundraising campaigns, the column stands sentinel over the town, a towering hilltop monument with murals depicting significant events in Oregon's early history. It survives 80 inches of rainfall a year and driving gale winds sweeping off the Pacific. The south shore of the Columbia River is a picturesque sight, where the majestic river meets the Pacific Ocean. WE CLIMBED the unique landmark, which rises majestically to overlook the mouth of the Columbia River on Coxcomb Hill. Completed in 1926, the imposing concrete and steel structure is part of a 30-acre city park, well loved by locals and a "must see" for tourists. Painted by Electus D. Litchfield and Attilio Pusterla, the column is a series of murals, boasting 32 scenes from the history of the region, including Captain Gray's discovery of the Columbia River in 1792 and the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The idea for the column first came about in 1898 when the city decided that an electrified tower in a small town could attract attention, even rivaling the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It took nearly three decades to create the column with its panoramic views. ASTORIA'S ETHNIC mix is Scandinavian, Chinese and other races, including the native American Clatsop tribe which helped Lewis and Clark survive a seriously dreary 1805 winter. WE ARE MUSEUM buffs so the Columbia River Maritime Museum attracted us. Beautifully laid out, its dramatic displays showcase the fishing, shipping and military history in a dramatic waterfront building. (More on that next week.) American Pride, our cruise ship anchors in the waters of the Columbia River. Then making use of our brief time in Astoria, we took in the Flavel House Museum, a lovely, restored Queen Anne style Victorian mansion built by a clever ship captain and real estate mogul who also had an eye for period furniture. His wife's manicured gardens live on as volunteers maintain the grounds and beds as they were. ASTORIA ALSO has its share of bawdy history. Along with its elegant architecture, it was also home to its share of brothels, breweries and opium dens. That was long ago and today Astoria's trolley, a main attraction, winds past the onetime rowdy area. The trolley is beloved by its residents, so we took a ride along the water, stopping for fish and chips then ice cream at a pair of the many inviting Astoria restaurants. The Liberty Theatre has long been a favorite vintage building. The 1925 Liberty Theater was another highlight for the two of us theater buffs. Built three years after the 1922 fire that destroyed much of the city, the one-time Vaudeville house was restored with nearly $9 million in donated funds. Astoria boasts some deep pockets and a "can do" spirit that the original J.J. Astor would certainly endorse and be proud of. We'll be back to this welcoming, interesting town, a happy blend of old, new and nice. More information: www.americancruiselines.com; www.oldoregon.com; www.crmm.org (Maritime Museum); www.astoria.or.us; www.libertyastoria.org; www.bowlinehotel.com www.cannerypierhotel.com Beautifully rendered displays of nautical life are part of the charm of Astoria's Maritime Museum. UP NEXT: While we're on the Columbia River, and only 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean, we take readers inside the Columbia River Maritime Museum, considered one of the finest maritime museums in the country, and home to the largest collection of maritime artifacts in the Pacific Northwest. More than 20,000 items, paintings, exhibits, drawings and memorabilia welcome visitors in a beautifully designed space. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Depoe Bay's small, beautiful harbor leads the way to an exciting time with resident whales. Keller and "Cookie" pose on the beutiful Big Sur coastline and enjoyed four days with the whales of Depoe Bay. They're called "residents'' because they stay several months during migration. UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH RESIDENT WHALES IN THE BAY WITH A LOVELY INN TO RELAX AND WATCH THE WORLD GO BY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Carrie Newell's passion for whales is apparent in her enthusiastic introduction to whale watching in Depoe Bay. FIRST, THERE is the irresistible lure of whale watching in Depoe Bay. It's not to be ignored, and one brilliant and dedicated woman makes sure you understand that. She's Carrie Newell, distinguished marine biologist who has spent her impressive 35-year career researching the whales in this quiet and peaceful cove on the Oregon coast. Depoe Bay is a marine biologist's dream. So it's no surprise that it has attracted the likes of Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of famed oceanographer and naturalist, the late Jacques Cousteau. The younger Cousteau and colleagues have visited Newell and benefited from her expertise and research, joining her on multiple expeditions. BETWEEN outings with our whale watching expert, we relaxed and hiked at Inn at Arch Rock. It's a perfect place to unwind between whale watches and fine dining -- abundant in Depoe Bay. Whale watching in this magical corner on the Oregon coast in the world's smallest natural navigable harbor is breath taking. The harbor covers six acres, with a 50-foot wide, 100-foot long rockbound, dog-legged channel connecting to the Pacific Ocean. A great place to go for exciting and fun whale watching. Carrie Newel, center, returns with happy whale watchers. A grey whale spout is a stinky exhale which Carrie's dog Koda is trained to smell, react and track to visitors' delight. Whale watching in Depoe Bay is enhanced by her remarkable dog, Koda, whom she trained from an early age to spot and respond to whales. They're named and called "residents" because they hang around several months -- May to November -- feeding and enjoying the warmer waters while others move on north to Alaska. Carrie coached Koda to get excited about whales when the dog was a pup. The instruction included taking Koda along with a small boatload of whale watchers, downwind of a gray whale. Once Carrie spotted the critters with her "eagle eye" for whales, she encouraged the dog to smell the blow. It's an aroma like bad gas or hard-boiled eggs, a sulphury blast to the nostrils. The dog learned that the blow meant the whale was near. Koda heard and smelled the blow and alerted passengers. Soon, all could see the whale and watch for another blow. Koda's watch continued with Carrie's encouraging “Whale, whale, whale.” Koda connects the dots and responds, all without treats, just praise. "Koda's pay is lotsa love!” says Newell. Koda was trained from her early puppy days to smell the blow of whales and recognize that as a sign to bark. It is a clever way to alert whale watchers to a nearby whale. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, and behind them, Carrie Newell, on the trail of the grey whales in Depoe Bay. BACK ON LAND, Carrie's museum is a trip in itself, a wondrous exhibit of sea treasures, lovingly collected and curated by Carrie herself. Her lifelong love of all things ocean-connected is evident in the array of shells, nautical photos. artwork and other memorabilia -- an amazing amount of information, displayed in a compact, efficient and eye-catching way. RETURNING TO the inn, you'll find yourself on a bluff above the Pacific Ocean, relaxing in one of 19 comfy units. They range from quaint and cozy rooms for two, to grand two-bedroom suites for up to six guests. Each room is individually appointed and all but one have spectacular ocean views. Trails to the ocean and a private beach are a stone's throw away. We saw whales from the balcony, and reveled in that during our too brief three-night and four-day stay. Inn at Arch Rock offers stunning views of the ocean, and often whale spouts and flukes. It's a lovely retreat. THE HOSTS are Nate and Polly Neet, a genial couple devoted to service and the pleasure of guests. The Neets are proud, hard-working innkeepers, with a love of hospitality and a dedication to the place they've nurtured and improved with meticulous but natural looking landscaping and other loving touches. They are fonts of knowledge about the area they love, and suggested we hook up with Carrie's unique and thrilling enterprise. We did that on the first afternoon and loved it so much we made return visits each day of our stay. A bountiful breakfast is part of the room fee, and the Neets' genteel hospitality combines with a genuine affection for people and their bird's eye knowledge of the area's attractions. They'll help with restaurants, hikes, shopping or whatever's your pleasure. Their appreciative clientele spans the globe. Carrie Newell and her expertly trained colleagues navigate boats in and out of the narrow, rocky switchback. The dramatic Depoe Bay harbor is one of the world's smallest. OUR SECOND-floor room was spacious, modern and smartly appointed with whaling and sea life decor. Add those spectacular views of the whales from the balcony, and a pair of binoculars to enhance sightings and you're a happy visitor. A lavish breakfast of fruit, eggs, muffins, biscuits, bacon and yogurt awaits. You'll enjoy the inn's own coffee label. At day's end, comfy beds point the way to sweet dreams of whales, an enterprising marine biologist and that endearing retriever. MORE INFO: Carrie Newell's spectacular Whale Research EcoExcursions: www.oregonwhales.com Inn at Arch Rock Nate and Polly Neet and their welcoming inn: www.innatarchrock.com ******************************************************************************************** Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers blast off for Kennedy Space Center, where they enjoy the exhibits and take fascinating tours of the internationally known center of space research and enterprise. UP NEXT: We're blasting off for Kennedy Center. Reaping the "labors" of the ambitious U.S. space endeavor, we offer a two-part look at Orlando, Florida, and its wonders. The booming area attracts visitors 12 months of the year with Epcot, Universal Studios and Disney World. We explore internationally known Kennedy Space Center, take a delectable food tour, and a foray into the swamps on the trail of alligators and we take a look at a top-ranked zoo. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance, the arts and more.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" The Costa Brava offers spectacular scenery, and there's no better view than at a recently renovated parador. Few hotels match the spectacular setting of Parador de Aiguablava, where dramatic cliffs meet the turquoise waters of Spain's Costa Brava. From a gorgeous hilltop location with sweeping sea views, travelers find easy access to quiet beaches and picturesque fishing villages such as Peratallada and Tamariu. The place also offers scenic coastal walking paths and terrific food. Whether you're seeking relaxation, photography or memorable day trips, this corner of northeastern Spain offers an authentic coastal experience to savor. Parador Aiguablava is recently remodeled and features a sunlit pine-lined terrace with lounge chairs leading to the modern white resort hotel, a showpiece on the Costa Brava. You'll find bubbly from its vineyards, the equal of French champagne, at one-third the price. You'll find views to write home about, and at this world-class hotel, you'll see that the government CAN run something successfully, at least in Spain! It was a return visit to experience the recently renovated parador, a stunning four-star clifftop hotel in Begur, Spain, at Carrer Platja d'Aiguablava. It features a seasonal outdoor pool, fitness center, sauna and the acclaimed Mar i Vent restaurant. We awakened to gentle waves and soft winds on lush pine forests outside our balcony, high on the Punta d'es Muts cliffs, in the crown jewel of Spain’s rugged coastline. It was a perfect coastal getaway. Situated in the heart of Catalonia, Costa Brava is more than a stretch of sand; it’s a living painting of dramatic rocky coves, whitewashed villages and deep blue Mediterranean waters. Whether sipping local Empordà wine on a sunny terrace or exploring charming centuries-old villages, the region demands a slow, mindful approach. Aiguablava's sunny coastal coves on the Mediterranean's blue waters make a wonderful beach hike with forested hills and lovely pine trees, a pleasant outing from the parador. Our adventure began at the parador itself. We'd stayed there a decade ago and found its "redo" makes it even more beautiful than we remembered. It's a 1960s clifftop retreat blending retro-chic furnishings with modern spaces. We left our contemporary room and wandered down to Platja Fonda for a morning stroll beside crystalline waters. Others swam while we just wet our toes. Back at the parador, guests relaxed by the pool and in the spa with a sauna and another pool overlooking the sea. We wanted to explore, so we donned walking shoes to hit the Camí de Ronda, ancient coastal paths along the rugged coastline, guiding trekkers to stunning vantage points. Peratallada and Begur are near the parador and offer beautiful old buildings, lovely in the sun and fun road trips for seeing Costa Brava's beauty. Each day, we drove somewhere, with help from our concierge. A few kilometers inland, we discovered the historic town of Begur. Crowned by an imposing castle, the town is famous for colorful indiano architecture. These grandly ostentatious homes were built by Spaniards who made their fortunes in Cuba in the 19th century. We stroll the cobblestone streets, grabbed a bite at a local tapas bar, and booked a table at the Hotel Aiguaclara. Salvador Dali's home in Cadaques is a picturesque merging of several smaller homes he and his wife Gala purchased and artfully consolidated. Tours capture the artist's eccentricities and love of beauty. No trip to the Costa Brava is complete without visiting Cadaqués. Known for its romantic, whitewashed alleys and artistic heritage, this iconic harbor village once captured the heart of Salvador Dalí. The tour is fascinating -- revealing the artist's eccentricities and artistic gifts. We made another scenic day trip to the Cap de Creus Natural Park nearby to visit the lighthouse and enjoy appetizers in its striking cliffside restaurant. Medieval buildings and magical lighting greet tourists who venture to Peratallada, crowded in summer but virtually deserted except for locals in late autumn and winter months. Temperatures are often still lovely. For a touch of medieval magic, we ventured to Peratallada. Walking through the stone walls of this ancient, well-preserved village is like stepping into a fairy tale. Nature and culture collide just an hour north of the Parador at the ruins of Empúries, where we gazed over ancient Greek and Roman artifacts with the sea in the background. Back near the Parador, we cooled off at the oasis of the Cap Roig Botanical Gardens in Calella de Palafrugell, a spectacular cliffside garden that hosts a world-renowned summer music festival. An award-winning meal at Parador Aiguablava offers seafood and wine on a balcony table overlooking the calm waters of the Mediterranean. With its unparalleled cliffside views, world-class Catalan gastronomy, and proximity to the region's best must-sees, Parador de Aiguablava is more than just a place to sleep. It is the ultimate balcony over the Mediterranean, inviting us to relax and savor the vibrant spirit of the Costa Brava We had a goal in mind on this trip -- to ditch our usual frenetic schedule and let each day unfold. We wanted to find local spots and nearby adventures. So we offer these tips: Cookie ventures up an ancient street in search of a bakery, on a day trip from the parador Explore Local Bakeries: Visit charming bakeries in towns like Tossa de Mar and Calella de Palafrugell for authentic treats. We became addicted to the delectable buttery sobaos pasiegos, dense, moist, rectangular pastries similar to pound cakes or muffins and infused with butter and lemon. We also loved creamy quesada, sweet Asturian casadiellas and regional variations of bizcocho (de;ocopis sponge cake), sold at local panaderías. Check Out Food Markets: We made daily stops at our favorite local market, Mercat de Girona, where we loaded up on olives -- many choices -- cheese, freshly baked still warm cookies and local specialties. Seek Coastal Cafés: We had leisurely lunches with splendid views at seaside cafés. A favorite place was Lloret de Mar. We also discovered a gem, Restaurant la Roca, in Peratallada, just a 14-minute drive -- less than 6 miles -- from Begur. A charming spot in a historic setting, it specializes in traditional Catalan cuisine, grilled meats, and local stews. It's a great find because it serves typical Mediterranean and Spanish fare from brunch to late-night, with terrific variety, vegetarian and Vegan options. A weathered sign on stone wall points the way to Restaurant La Roca, a popular place featuring local and Catalan cuisine in Spain's Costa Brava. Join a Food Tour: We took a guided food tour to find the best spots and local delicacies. Capture the Moment: Take lots of photos of your favorite finds against the stunning Costa Brava backdrop. Ask Locals and Your Hotel Concierge for Recommendations: Engage with locals for hidden gems that may not be in tourist guides. ************ Smiling Keller and Cookie in front of the Petronas Twin Towers, backed by clouds in Kuala Lumpur Coming Up: A journey to Malaysia, Thailand and the exotic locales of Indonesia, the world’s largest archipelago. Our tour blends unmatched natural beauty with rich cultural heritage. from busy cities and quaint villages to the volcanic majesty of Java’s Mount Bromo and ancient shrines like Borobudur, we continue to Komodo National Park and Raja Ampat, then on to Australia. Follow along for more adventures and travel inspiration at WhereIsCookie.com Remember to explore, learn and live, and send feedback as we continue our reports on cruising, bistros, roadside pubs, intriguing antique shops, museums, hardware stores, vegetable markets, cathedrals and other places of culture! If Costa Brava sparks your wanderlust, there’s more waiting for you to explore. Check out many other travel stories and inspiration at WhereIsCookie.com

A handsome, healthy lion is a favorite resident of travel writers Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, below, who enjoy the San Diego Zoo Safari Park each year. Thousands of animal lovers from all over the world spend a day or two learning and admiring the animals who are carefully tended at the world famous park. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Keller and Cookie enjoying a day at world renowned San Diego Zoo Safari Park THE SAN DIEGO Zoo Safari Park is an international treasure, visited by thousands each year and home to a carefully supervised grouping of 3,000 animals sharing 1,800 beautifully landscaped yet "wild looking" acres. For us, it's an annual "must see." For many others, it's a once-in-a-lifetime exposure to rare animals from around the world. A female kangaroo wakes from an afternoon nap. The highly acclaimed park has some of the world's most successful breeding programs, particularly the rhino, who has been brought back from near extinction thanks to parks such as San Diego's. The city's rare white rhinos (the same color as grey) are the only two left on the planet. That makes seeing these wondrous creatures even more special. WE SPENT a full, happy day at San Diego Zoo Safari Park, an enchanting place for families and kids of all ages, like the two of us. We hopped aboard the Africa Tram to get a bird's eye view of the park's beautifully arranged habitat. A view of the safari park grounds from a lookout near the elevator. We had a terrific guide who stopped so we could get close-up views of giraffes, rhinos, antelope and gazelles. We also saw mule deer, "freeloaders," who visit the park as unofficial guests, enjoying the grounds and a nibble. San Diego Zoo Safari Park Pointers THE CRITTERS we saw are free to roam happily on the savannah grounds within artfully designed areas to separate but not "fence." We recommend strolling the grounds and taking the tram ride to enjoy artfully landscaped terrain, resembling the foliage the animals know, ample shelter and wide open spaces the animals enjoy in their carefully designed habitats. The dozens of critters we admired appear happy with the arrangement. Besides beautifully tended grounds, the zoo boasts a fascinating botanical garden with over a million plants, carefully marked. San Diego Zoo Safari Park has two platypuses. The semiaquatic, egg-laying mammal is endemic to eastern Australia. We were thrilled to catch a glimpse of this guy. OUR TERRIFIC 20-minute tram ride gave us an idea of what we'd like to see more of and return to. We knew that would include the Australia walkabout since we have many times visited that continent and observed its unique critters. Speaking of walking, prepare to get your exercise. It's a large expanse and we logged over 4 miles on our recent visit. Motorized carts are available for rental and a variety of tours can be organized for those who don't want total independence. Over 1.6 million visitors joined in the park's exploration and learning experience last year. Among the pleasures is watching a tiger nap -- feet and legs in the air, almost comically relaxed. Christene "Cookie" Meyers watches a sleeping tiger close-up. Besides observing napping critters, you'll see lots of lively ones including a variety of monkeys. We watched lesser spot-nosed monkeys, a noisy troop of capuchin monkeys, curious colobus monkeys and northern black-crested mangabeys sharing a habitat. Wolf's monkeys hang around with their pygmy hippo pals. Try to time it to see them swing through the trees. Our favorite interlude was watching a lion chow down on a beef shank, as nearby vultures awaited scraps to peck on the bones. Special tours are available as additions to the regular ticket. You can join a small group like this one to get up close and personal. As part of the ticket which begins at $76, you can access the cheetah run to witness the lightning speed of these big, beautiful cats. You can feed the lovely lorikeets by hand as they swoop down, and various upgrades are available for more money. You can book a wildlife safari, for instance, to travel in the back of a covered open-air safari truck -- like those we've used on African safari. The truck travels through the park's expansive savanna habitats with an expert guide providing detailed information on each species. The entrance hall at San Diego Zoo Safari Park welcomed over 1.6 million visitors last year. ANOTHER terrific aspect of a visit is learning. It's wonderful to see groups of school kids taking photos, soaking it all up. And the knowledgeable volunteers who are always within easy reach enrich the experience, answering questions, giving pointers on best viewing spots. We found the docents helpful in tracking down the platypus exhibit. We had to adjust our eyes as we entered the dark world of this shy creature to catch a glimpse of the female swimming around, resting on a log and generally enjoying the attention (or so it seemed to us delighted tourists.) More tips to enhance your safari park visit With various upgrades, you can pend a bit more than the ticket. There are money-saving ticket packages including one that combines the Safari Park entrance with the Zoo and SeaWorld. Various coupons and discounts can also be found with a little shopping around on the internet. You'll also pay a parking fee of $20. Highlights, add-ons, options Explore wildlife up close with the Africa Tram, Cheetah Run, free-flight aviary, and more. A cheetah strikes a classic pose at San Diego Safari Park. Visitors can watch him spring. Hop aboard the Africa Tram, your window to the wild, letting you marvel at giraffes, rhinos, and gazelles without any barriers. Ever seen a cheetah sprint? Access to the Cheetah Run, a pulsating spectacle, lets you witness the lightning speed of these big cats. Enter the free-flight aviary that recreates natural habitats for 140+ birds of 40 species, an immersive experience in their environment. Upgrade to the 2-visit pass for the flexibility to explore both the San Diego Zoo and Safari Park or enjoy two visits to your favorite! Tip: The Park's observation deck offers panoramic views, making it an excellent photo op. Visitors can take a fun selfie with a giraffe background! This experience is wheelchair accessible. The park's blue Africa safari trams carry tourists along a dirt road through San Diego's dry rocky hills, with a hot air balloon floating overhead. The park is unique to the west coast and is visited by animal lovers worldwide. Explore wildlife up close: the Africa Tram, Cheetah Run, free-flight aviary and more. Hop aboard the Africa Tram to see giraffes, rhinos, and gazelles without barriers. Ever seen a cheetah sprint? Access to the Cheetah Run, a pulsating spectacle, lets you witness the lightning speed of these big cats. Enter the free-flight aviary that recreates natural habitats for 140+ birds of 40 species, offering an immersive experience in their environment. Upgrade to a 2-visit pass for the flexibility to explore both the San Diego Zoo and Safari Park or enjoy two visits to your favorite! THE WEATHER is nearly perfect in San Diego any time of year -- in fact, it averages 72 degrees 12 months a year. So enjoy this special place and support wildlife. sdzsafaripark.org zoo.sandiegozoo.org The water below the Aiguablava vies for attention with the parador's artful touches UPCOMING FUN: We're exploring the Costa Brava and find a fabulous parador, stunning coastal views and the art of Salvador Dali. Then a Fort Lauderdale visit, and a look at highlights of New York City. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller and courtesy Gates of the Mountains "The Carpe Diem Kids" A tour boat tour sets off with passengers to cruise Gates of the Mountains, with a commentary about the dramatic Montana canyon and wilderness area, with rocky pine-covered cliffs and a lively history -- 20 miles north of Helena. After exploring Helena's historic streets and Gold Rush landmarks, we ventured beyond the city to discover two of central Montana's hidden gems. Just 20 miles from downtown, the Gates of the Mountains offered a breathtaking boat tour through the dramatic Missouri River canyon that amazed explorers more than two centuries ago. Gates of the Mountains roadside sign hints at the adventures awaiting on a boat tour up the Missouri Then our Helena Montana daytrip took us into the beautiful Blackfoot Valley to Blackfoot Pathways: Sculpture in the Wild, an outdoor sculpture park. World-class artwork blends with Montana's forests, meadows and mountains. This pair of attractions made a wonderful daytrip. Experience the Gates of the Mountains Boat Tour, part one of this adventure About 20 miles north of Helena lies an unforgettable Montana experience -- the legendary Gates of the Mountains Boat Tour. It combines spectacular scenery, fascinating history, abundant wildlife and a relaxing afternoon on the water, a two-hour cruise perfect for a Montana itinerary. Passengers disembark a ferry at Gates of the Mountains dock near Helena, Montana, after a tour on a pristine mountain lake, with a lively narration on its wildlife and native American history. The tour narration begins on July 19, 1805, when Captain Meriwether Lewis and the Corps of Discovery paddled along the Missouri River. As they rounded a bend, limestone cliffs rose 1,200 feet above the river, appearing to block passage. As they moved closer, the cliffs seemed to open like stone doors. Lewis famously wrote "I shall call this place the Gates of the Mountains." The name has remained for two-plus centuries. We retraced that historic route on our comfy boat, departing from the Gates of the Mountains Marina. Our knowledgeable captain and animated guide brought the canyon to life with stories about Lewis and Clark, Native American history and the area's unique geology and abundant wildlife. Gates of the Mountains boat tour features knowledgeable guides and terrific views of scenery enhanced by stories and a lively narration. Towering limestone walls seem unchanged since Lewis saw them. We spotted soaring bald eagles, ospreys diving for fish, mountain goats balancing on rocky ledges and bighorn sheep grazing. Deer, beaver, river otters and falcons are often spotted. One of the tour's moving moments came as the boat passed Mann Gulch. In 1949, it was the site of a deadly wildfire, claiming 13 smokejumpers' lives. The tragedy changed wildfire training and inspired Norman Maclean's acclaimed book, Young Men and Fire. Moving to be near the site. A red ochre rock painting catches the eye on a stone cliff at Gates of the Mountains near Helena. We gazed on canyon walls for centuries-old Native American pictographs. They remind us this remarkable place was important long before Lewis and Clark arrived. Our savvy guide pointed out rock formations, describing the creation of the canyon over millions of years. Photographers kept cameras ready as changing light created dramatic shadows across the limestone cliffs. Meanwhile, the calm Missouri River reflected the canyon's walls and each bend revealed a postcard. The relaxing cruise is great for families. We're history and wildlife buffs and enjoyed hearing of both. Anyone looking to discover Montana's natural beauty will enjoy this outing. 2026 Tour Information The scenic cruise lasts two hours. Reservations are recommended during summer months, especially weekends and holidays. Visitors should arrive 30 minutes early. Admissions: Adults (18–59): $20; Seniors (60+): $15; Active Military: $15; Children (ages 3–17): $10 Children 2 and under: Free Whether you're spending a day in Helena or traveling between Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks, the Gates of the Mountains Boat Tour is a classic Montana experience. It combines breathtaking scenery, fascinating history and peaceful time on the Missouri River in a memorable adventure: Gates of the Mountains Boat Tours. "A Place Is a Place is a Place," by British artist Stuart Ian Frost, part of the open-air art exhibitions near Lincoln, Montana, and an interesting day trip from Helena. Frost intended his multilayered artwork to create a depth of vision, generating a characteristic structural “carving” reminiscent in many of his artworks Helena Montana day trip: second part Discover Blackfoot Pathways: Sculpture in the Wild Some of Montana's most memorable attractions aren't found in large cities or national parks-- they're tucked away in places where you least expect them. About an hour northwest of Helena, near the small community of Lincoln, you'll discover one of the state's hidden gems: Blackfoot Pathways: Sculpture in the Wild. This sculpture is "Stringer," created by artist Casey Schachner. It utilizes a fan-like, interlocking configuration of logs to create an organic, architectural gateway that mimics a shelter or wigwam. blending into the ponderosa pine forest This remarkable outdoor sculpture park combines art, nature, history and community in an experience unique to Montana. Rather than placing artwork inside museum walls, more than two dozen large-scale sculptures are artfully positioned in a peaceful ponderosa pine forest, allowing visitors to experience art as part of the landscape itself. The idea behind Sculpture in the Wild was born from the Blackfoot Valley's rich heritage. For generations, the communities surrounding Lincoln depended on logging, mining, and ranching. As those industries declined, local leaders looked for a creative way to celebrate the area's history while encouraging tourism and economic growth. Their vision attracted internationally recognized artists including Patrick Dougherty, who created permanent, site-specific works inspired by the valley's landscape, culture, and industrial past. Children play at artist Patrick Dougherty's famous sculpture near Lincoln, Montana, is titled "Tree Circus," using more than 10 tons of locally sourced willow and alder saplings. A thistle blooms in the 26-acre Blackfoot Pathways. Walking through the park is as relaxing as it is inspiring. Easy gravel pathways wind through approximately 26 acres of forest, leading visitors from one sculpture to another. Each piece invites you to stop, reflect, and often interact with the artwork. Informational signs explain the artist's vision and how each sculpture connects to the Blackfoot Valley's story. Among the most photographed works are towering wooden sculptures woven from natural branches, massive geometric installations constructed from reclaimed materials and striking pieces that frame the surrounding mountains and forest in unexpected ways. These sculptures encourage visitors to walk through them, sit inside them, or view the landscape from an entirely different perspective. One of the park's defining characteristics is how seamlessly the artwork blends into nature, complementing the forest. Sounds of rustling pine, birds and breezes enhance the experience, encouraging visitors to slow down, relax and enjoy being outdoors. "Montana Line Drawing" by Irish artist Kevin O'Dwyer. It is 22 feet tall, made from geometric steel, one of many intriguing sculptures installed inside Blackfoot Pathways. It was designed to mirror the vertical patterns of nearby pine trees. Families appreciate the short, easy walking trails and picnic areas, while photographers have a field day -- capturing dramatic compositions where art and landscape meet. Wildlife sightings are common, and because the park is rarely crowded, it offers a peaceful escape from Montana's busier tourist destinations. "Re-Imagining the Delaney Sawmill TeePee Burner" is an installation by Kevin O'Dwyer. The artist transformed a 10-ton, 80-foot relic into an interactive landmark in Blackfoot Pathways: Sculpture in the Wild in Lincoln, Montana, it preserves local logging history with modern LED lights, solar power and archival steel photographs One especially meaningful installation preserves part of the region's logging history through the restored Delaney Sawmill Teepee Burner, reminding visitors of the valley's industrial heritage while illustrating how the community has embraced a new future built around creativity and conservation. Artist Kevin O'Dwyer imaginately repurposed the 50-foot diameter, rusted steel structure into an award-winning walk-in art installation. Planning Your Visit One of the best features of "Sculpture in the Wild" is that admission is free. Donations are welcomed and help support future art installations, trail maintenance and educational programs. The sculpture park is generally open daily from dawn until dusk throughout the year, making it an easy stop whether you're traveling between Helena and Missoula or exploring Montana's Scenic Highway 200. We spent a couple relaxing hours exploring the trails with fellow art lovers and photographers. It would have been easy to linger longer. We recommend comfortable walking shoes and a camera. Each bend in the trail reveals another surprising and imaginative creation. "Blackfoot Pathways: Sculpture in the Wild" proves that some of Montana's greatest treasures are found off the beaten path. Together with Helena's historic downtown and the breathtaking Gates of the Mountains Boat Tour, it completes a journey filled with history, breathtaking scenery, and inspiring creativity. If you're looking to experience a side of Montana that many travelers overlook, this peaceful outdoor gallery deserves a place on your itinerary. A drive through the Blackfoot Valley won't disappoint. It's a great family activity and photographer's mecca with abundant nature and wildlife viewing. Male lion at San Diego Zoo Safari Park rests near his den on green grass, looking calm and relaxed Coming Up: San Diego's Safari Park Dive into the fascinating wildlife world with a visit to San Diego Zoo Safari Park, with the Africa Tram to take you to giraffes, rhinos and gazelles roaming free. A cheetah sprints and birds flutter in a free-flight aviary. It's a fun family outing, or great for couples and singles, too. You're never alone at this unique wildlife sanctuary. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, performance, art, travel, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

A Pacific bound container ship goes south through the Panama Canal, photographed from the balcony of our northbound ship. Pacific-Atlantic bound ships pass traffic going the opposite direction in wider parts of the river and Gatun Lake. Passage fees must be paid in advance and are thousands of dollars. TECHNOLOGY, WORLD COMMERCE CONVERGE IN A FASCINATING DAY AT SEA passing through the Panama Canal Lock doors open while our ship prepares to enter, towed in by diesel powered "mules." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note, August 18, 2026: The Panama Canal expansion project was completed in 2016, and has been fully operational since then, increasing the canal's capacity and enhancing its role in global trade with over 31,000 vessel transits in its first decade. HOW MANY countries does it take to complete a $5.3 billion expansion of the wondrous Panama Canal? The answer might be, "more than four," because Spain, Italy, Belgium and Panama have not delivered so far. The expansion contract was lost to the U.S., whose bid was too high. But the countries sharing the various sub-contracts have found their endeavors beset with problems. A YEAR AGO, the project was shut down for a time when it ran out of money and floods further crippled the effort. It's back on track, with a revised budget of $7 million. Korea is now involved, too. Our recent visit found the world's largest earth movers noisily back on the project, and estimates are that it will be done by December of 2015 or early 2016 at the latest. I wouldn't hold my breath. Because of the shape of the land, the canal runs north-south, not east-west. The intricate, massive addition will accommodate three times larger vessels and increase the daily numbers of ships and freighters in transit. Mira Flores Lock was completed in 1906. IN VISITING with experts, we learned that continuous dredging is part of the scenario, because of water movement, rains and erosion. After transiting the locks aboard the Legend of the Seas, we wanted a look from land. A close-up tour, arranged on board through Royal Caribbean International, picked us up at the docks near Colon and took us to a viewing tower three stories up. WE WATCHED, fascinated, as the lock system worked -- thanks to 50 million gallons of water a day running out of the mountains. Four new locks, made in France, await installation in the new canal. A reader of Saturday's part-one piece asked, "Do they alternate days of traffic going east and west?" First, the direction is north and south, even though it would seem that the oceans are on the east and west of the land bridge. And there are locks for two-way traffic. In man-made Gatun Lake, we Atlantic-bound passengers saw ships coming towards us, going towards the Pacific we'd left earlier in the day. LARGE SHIPS use the canal during the day, entering in the morning and exiting toward evening. Ships going Pacific-Atlantic go north; those traveling from the Atlantic to the Pacific go south. Small vessels cluster and wait night when enough traffic accumulates to make passage..... you don't get space in line until you pay. Our Royal Caribbean Legend of the Seas paid nearly $400,000. Years ago, aboard the venerable Queen Elizabeth II, we made international news as the largest ship at the time to transit the canal, with only inches to spare. WITH THE new addition, ships three times larger will be able to transit. Many of the new larger mega-ships are too large for the present locks. CASH ONLY is paid to Panama for passage and our vessel's tab was $400k! (That's why this cruise is so expensive.) The canal and locks are 48 miles long and parts are replaced as needed without stopping traffic, a remarkable feat in this 100-year old undertaking. Canal traffic has only been stopped once, when drought in 2010 failed to supply adequate rain water. Now, Gatun Lake's level is being raised one foot to store more water. Water pours into the lock as a "mule" reaches the top, helping the ship. "MULES" HELP the ships through. They still call the cars "mules" but nowadays they are diesel powered and hooked to the ship with cables. The creation of the Panama Canal took 27,000 lives -- mostly from malaria, with some casualties from explosions. The canal saves 8,000 miles and 71 days of sailing. Last year nearly 15,000 ships, pleasure crafts and freighters made the remarkable journey. A Guatemalan woman sells handmade shawls and scarves. COMING SOON: Continuing our wanderings of the coast of the Americas, our adventures take us to Guatemala, which means "land of trees." We sample barbecue and purchase gorgeous hand-woven shawls, made by descendants of the Mayan people. We say “gracias, no” to the man with the drug coat, a dealer’s version of the New York watch seller’s. Our mountain trek takes us through miles of coffee and rubber trees before we embark upon an hour-long boat ride on Lake Atitlan, created from a volcanic crater, to the village of Panajachel, one of 23 ancient villages attracting Guatemalan yuppies and adventuresome Europeans. Remember to explore, learn, live, and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" Creative energy and innovation are hallmarks of 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, a gallery whose building is itself a work of art. Known in Tokyo as a striking cultural landmark, the building and its exhibits encourage thoughtful exploration. Masaya Yoshimura photo Few buildings in Tokyo blend architecture, creativity, and innovation as beautifully as 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, where we spent an intriguing afternoon experiencing everyday life through the lens of design. Located in Tokyo Midtown, 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT is far more than a design gallery. Designed by celebrated architect Tadao Ando, this striking cultural landmark invites visitors to explore how thoughtful design shapes everyday life through imaginative exhibitions, inspiring architecture and creative innovation. A Hidden Gem Essential to a Tokyo Visit From the subway, the approach to the gallery is through a lovely neighborhood with beautiful architecture and peaceful landscaping design. We took the tube from our hotel to Roppongi Station for a short, pleasant walk to 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT. We'd studied a brochure on the exhibition, "Soup as Life," and were eager to experience the creative way the gallery would use soup as a lens to explore our fundamental human needs of food, clothing and shelter. Our visit evoked a huge "wow!" giving us a fresh, fascinating perspective on design as a creative force that influences everyday life. We wandered slowly through the thought-provoking soup exhibition. We viewed utensils, table settings and an artful collection of spoons, all while considering the importance of soup through the centuries. We were intrigued by the way in which the exhibition addresses food, clothing and shelter. Eye-catching installations embrace all five senses, using textile, sound, scent and photography to present aspects of the theme of "soup." Never had we considered something as basic as soup could have such profound ramifications. The lighting and design of galleries in 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT encourage visitors to linger, here viewing textile and photo exhibits under the gallery's dramatic vaulted wooden ceiling.Design is apparent everywhere, foremost in the architecture of the building itself. It inspires new ways of thinking about a building's function. Its founder, renowned designer Issey Miyake. It opened in March 2007 within the Tokyo Midtown complex as a collaborative project conceived with architect Ando to showcase imaginative exhibitions on a range of themes -- sustainability, craftsmanship, and the relationship between objects and people. The soup exhibition included elegant table settings and a striking spoon display, both encouraging us to ponder this ancient tool while challenging conventional ideas about objects we take for granted. Highlights of 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT ● The gallery features rotating exhibitions by leading designers. "Soup as Life" in Galleries 1 & 2 is in its final days, running through Aug 9. ● The upcoming exhibition is "Learning from "Hōjōki": Tiny Architecture Reweaves Life," running from Aug. 28, 2026 to Jan. 11, 2027, following a brief installation closure Aug.10-27. Hōjōki (方丈記), translated as "An Account of My Hut" or "The Ten-Foot Square Hut," is a classic masterpiece of pre-modern Japanese literature written in 1212 by Kamo no Chōmei. ● The gallery features a design shop featuring unique products and limited-edition items ● The building itself is a minimalist masterpiece blending concrete, glass and natural light. Elegant table settings and a striking spoon display encouraged us to review conventional ideas about everyday objects we use. Why Visit This Gallery? Our visit to 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT reminded us that travel is about more than famous landmarks -- it's about discovering places that inspire fresh ideas and new ways of seeing the world. If your travels take you to Tokyo, be sure to set aside time for a leisurely visit to this remarkable gallery. You'll find it encourages the viewer to think in fresh ways, to ponder. Great art must do this. You can use the Tokyo Pass to gain admission to 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT. You can also purchase tickets at the door. General adult admission is approximately $10.14 USD (¥1,600 JPY.) The gallery is located in Tokyo Midtown, at 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato City, Tokyo, about a 5-minute walk from either Roppongi Station or Nogizaka Station. The gallery is generally open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (last admission 6:30 p.m.) and is usually closed on Tuesdays. Current exhibitions change throughout the year. People browse a fascinating art installation at 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, part of an exhibit on soup. Various strikingly curated displays use soup as a creative lens to explore the fundamental human needs of food, clothing and shelter. You can visit the official site here by clicking on: 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT If you're planning a Tokyo trip, there are several other outstanding architecture and design destinations within walking distance of 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT. Why not make a day of exploring Tokyo's unique gallery, beginning with 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT. Remember to explore, learn and live, and follow WhereIsCookie.com for more travel stories, practical tips and hidden gems from destinations around the globe. ******************************************************************************************* UP NEXT: We're hitting the road from Helena, Montana, on a daytrip to a pair of spectacular places. Just 20 miles from downtown, the Gates of the Mountains offered a breathtaking boat tour through the dramatic Missouri River canyon that amazed explorers more than two centuries ago. Then our Helena daytrip takes us to Lincoln, Montana, and the beautiful Blackfoot Valley to "Blackfoot Pathways: Sculpture in the Wild." It's an open air, uncrowded outdoor sculpture park where world-class artwork blends with Montana's forests, meadows and mountains. This pair of attractions made a wonderful daytrip. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for more adventures, travel tips and destination insights around the globe. Follow us at www.whereiscookie.com A tour boat tour sets off with passengers to cruise the Missouri River and Gates of the Mountains, with a lively commentary about the dramatic Montana canyon and wilderness area 20 miles north of Helena.