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Remembering 'Uncle Cog' for his wry wit, Harry A. Cosgriffe, above right, poses with his siblings, circa 1930.From left, Richard (the writer's father), twins Nancy and Mary, Harry. "Uncle Cog" was the oldest  child, but outlived his three siblings. In left photo,Cog with his daughters,"my girls," he called them,Susie, Colleen and Kathleen.  attention to detail and devotion to family In left photo, Cog with his daughters, "my girls," he called them, Susie, Colleen and Kathleen. attention to detail and devotion to family Harry A. Cosgriffe, above right, poses with his siblings, circa 1930. From left, Richard Writer's father, twins Nancy and Mary, Harry. "Uncle Cog" was the oldest child, but outlived his three siblings. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" HE'D HAVE loved the weekend.  Fun, frolic, feasting, reminiscing, dancing, laughter.  And moisture -- both in tears shed as we said "so-long", and in welcome rain on the ranch land. Rick Cosgriffe amused and touched gatherers with his eloquent remembrance of his uncle. Harry Arthur Cosgriffe, "Uncle Cog" to his doting nieces and nephews, was born in 1920 and died in March of this year.  His three daughters, my cousins, decided to honor his memory in July, giving friends and family time to reflect on the loss and make travel plans. So the weekend after the Fourth of July unfolded with joy, a gentle wind, music and memories. Relatives and friends   from in a dozen states and many Montana towns gathered to pay respect as Uncle's ashes rested in a beautiful urn crafted by a nephew. The Crazy Mountain Inn was a regular dining out option for Uncle Cog and Aunt Peg and some of us stayed here. NIECES PLAYED , sang and my cousin Nancy Ellen delivered a loving eulogy while her sister Diane led a rousing "You Are My Sunshine."   My brother Rick compared  his Uncle's orderly and well planned life to the white fence surrounding the Two Dot ranch where he spent decades of happy summers. He imagined that Uncle's heart "soared like a hawk" each time he approached the Crazy Mountains from his other home in Pullman, Washington. For his heart was always here in the shadow of the Rockies with the comforting sight of horses, cattle and wheat fields. Uncle Cog and my dad, Richard Edward Cosgriffe, were bookend brothers, with twin girls born between, Mary and Nancy.  They shared a love of land and family, engendered during their ranch rearing and Harlowton roots.  They both loved to reminisce and each told a good story. They adored the familiar landscape of their youth. THE WEEKEND,  for the Richard Cosgriffes, offered an opportunity for our own five-sibling reunion and we gathered for two days at Martinsdale's Crazy Mountain Inn (that's an upcoming post -- great fun).   From left, the three offspring of Harry Cosgriffe and Peg Moore: Kathleen, Colleen and Susie, who planned a delightful four-part day of honoring their dad. Uncle's day was a four-part opus on Saturday, July 6.  My three cousins -- Kathleen, Susie and Colleen -- greeted mourners and celebrants at Harlowton Cemetery, where Uncle's parents, in-laws, uncle, sisters, brother and a nephew are interred.  I offered piano music on a keyboard.  Children romped, with respectful restraint, and dogs were welcome, including my twin Yorkies, Nick and Nora. WHEN A GUY  reaches his 90s, with many accomplishments and legions of admirers, it's hard to be too sad.  We'll miss him, of course, but we had him a long time and for that we are grateful. The Cosgriffes walk to their own Cookie plays keyboard in the wind as mourners arrive.  Among her tunes, a favorite of Uncle Cog's, Cole Porter's "Don't Fence Me In." drummer when it comes to staging memorials. We're not big on dour funerals. Our good-byes are emotional occasions with music and poetry. That's our Irish showing, I suppose. MY OWN  memories of Uncle Cog shine: There's the time our large family plus a couple friends stopped on a camping trip, at the Big Timber drive-in in the early 1960s.  My parents had fashioned the back of a cattle truck into a camper and we looked like own own version of "The Beverly Hillbillies" with blankets and books, lanterns and coolers, fishing gear, guitars, dogs and sleeping bags. Cog and my Aunt Peg happened to be at the drive-in having a late lunch when we made our larger-than-life ice cream stop. Since Cog loved to dance, it was fitting that his memorial ended at his beloved Two Dot Bar with music and action on the dance floor. Uncle walked slowly to our truck, then hoisted himself up to peer over his bi-focals into the back. He smiled broadly, and deadpanned, "I don't suppose there's there room for one more?" HE ONCE  told me he did his best thinking on the back of a horse.  I replied that my best thoughts came at 30,000 feet in the first class section of an airplane. "Just different modes of transportation," he opined. "I'll bet that's where you come up with your good stories!" ONE WINTRY  day a few years ago, my sister Olivia and I were invited by Uncle to the Cosgriffe-Moore ranch, where the dessert part of his memorial day was held. Peg was detained in Washington state and Uncle invited us to sleep at the ranch and sup at the Two-Dot Bar. "It's not a salad kind of place," he offered. "Good burgers. That's what to order." The Fire Hall was the place for the feast following the cemetery rituals, with more tributes here by a  brother-in-law and grandson, and music: a group sing of "When Irish Eyes Are Smiling." UNCLE  WAS  unruffled when we arrived with my ancient sheepdog, Smedley, and a rescue mutt, Max. But, he said, sadly, "I'm afraid they will have to stay in the garage.  House rules." As dusk came, snow fell and the temperature dropped, Uncle disappeared into the basement with an old horse blanket under his arm. "I made a bed for Smedley and Max," he said, returning. "But you must swear never to tell Peg that a large wet dog and his equally moist little friend spent the night in this house!" With both Cog and Peg gone now -- and Smedley and Maxwell long in their own doggie urns -- I can tell this sweet story. ANOTHER TIME,  Uncle wrote me asking how much truth poetry should have.  He had been pondering a poem I wrote, inspired by my memory of a Guests were encouraged to write a memory and sign in. 1954 visit to my great Aunt Maud's home in White Sulphur Springs. He wondered how much was "fact" and how much was imagination. This interesting question launched a continuing discussion about poetry versus reporting, the liberties poetry can and should take, that its "truth" comes from its evocative nature, from its expression of feelings. That details and ideas can craft a larger "truth" through compelling style, language and rhythm. The Cosgriffe-Moore home welcomed family and friends at the memorial. GOOD REPORTING,  I wrote Uncle, comes from factual ordering of events and circumstances. They're different literary beasts. He wrote me back: "A Plus on your explanation, dear niece. You have written a fine poem. Let the record show you are also a good reporter. I enjoyed your explanation on the differences between the two forms." HOW I WISH  we'd been able to visit our ancestral homes in Ireland together. I've felt the family influence in my trips there and know Uncle reveled in touring A scenic view of Jordan, where both the writer and her Uncle Cog spent time, but never together. the linen mill in northern Ireland where his grandfather Arthur worked.  I'd have loved for us to experience the wonders of the Middle East together. Uncle lived for several years in Jordan, where he was praised for his inventive agricultural contributions. I've visited a half-dozen times, recently looking down upon Jordan from a lovely vantage point with Israeli friends.   Cousins help cut and serve the "Uncle Cog" memorial cakes. I know Uncle was proud that so many of us have become teachers, writers, counselors, communicators, curious global citizens.  He earned his doctorate in adult education at University of Chicago and like many others in the family, had a passionate commitment to education and travel. The Cosgriffe brothers, Harry and Richard; the twins, Mary, seated  left, and Nancy, right and their dad Harry Cosgriffe, center, in the 1950s.   HE MADE  many friends in Jordan and I remember one story of a days-long wedding at which he was an honored guest. A niece, Misha, places a white rose with the urn. My last note from Uncle came after I wrote daddy's obituary for several newspapers. I erroneously listed his only brother's residences as Pullman, Wash., (correct) and Ryegate (wrong -- it's Two Dot and I know better.) Correcting me with his characteristic diplomacy, Uncle Cog pointed out the mistake then said, "It was a wonderful obituary. I've always been proud of you.  And I did date lots of Ryegate girls, so I'll bet that's what you were thinking about." AS HIS  memorial day wound down, with tributes and toasts, dining, beer, wine, dancing, rain and elaborate Cowboy hats were in vogue at the Two Dot Bar dance. cakes and storytelling, I thought of the roses loved ones had placed on the urn, each one saying, perhaps, some last word of thanks, maybe even deadpanning a one-liner. My kindly, smart Uncle -- who made a bed for two cold, wet dogs -- had a good heart and sharp mind. I thanked him for that. Dear Uncle, I kept the dog secret for years.  But it's such a good story, it just had to be told. COMING UP:   Ever think about how much of our language comes from sailing? It's true:  from ship shape to lowering the boom.  A look at the many phrases we use whose roots are in sailing and boats. So many words from our language derive from our love of boats and the sea, here a rainbow framed harbor in Lisbon, Portugal. And our family stages a third birthday party for our delightful Christena, born with Down Syndrome. We examine the joys and challenges of raising a handicapped child, with my brother, a single dad, and a large and loving family and friends support system. And traveling light at Martinsdale's Crazy Mountain Inn. Remember to explore, learn and live. Tune us in at:       whereiscookie.com

Old San Juan's colorful Boricua is a pleasant place to stop for lunch, stroll the shops, enjoy the beach. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pause for a photo. BEACHES, CASINOS, DINING, MUSEUMS, LANDMARKS, UPSCALE RESIDENTIAL AREAS, MUSEUMS, STREET FOOD, MUSIC: ALL IN A DAY IN LIVELY SAN JUAN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" SAN JUAN  is a vibrant mix of stately buildings, towering trees, lively cafes, posh nightclubs, glitzy resorts, simple street food carts, plazas to people watch, museums, beach life and more. It's an enticing blend. A major port and tourist destination on Puerto Rico's northern coast, it is separated from the rest of the island by picturesque San Juan Bay and Condado Lagoon.   Stately homes and gentrified offices can be found in parts of San Juan, which also has modern areas and resorts. The city was founded in 1508 by that globe trotting Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León and is the oldest city under U.S. jurisdiction. YOU'LL NEED a few days to get into the grove as San Juan seduces you.  We suggest starting with a stroll or drive in El Viejo San Juan --  historic Old San Juan, which has several names, and is properly known as San Juan Antiguo. It is home to the San Juan National Historic Site, with buildings dating from the 16th century. You'll want to visit a pair of the Caribbean's most famous fortresses, the San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal. We enjoyed a climb on the old city walls for gorgeous views. If you like old stately churches, the Bautista Cathedral should be on your list of "must sees."  It houses the tomb of Ponce de Leon in a neighborhood of brightly colored houses which line inviting cobbled streets. We stopped in a shady plaza for a cocktail in a small, colorful bar.  After a rest in our hotel, we returned to Old San Juan to sample a couple of the city's renowned Caribbean fusion restaurants. Old San Juan offers a mix of stately architecture, plazas with benches and shade trees, and sculpture parks. IN OLD TOWN,  as the sun slides into the horizon,  you'll join older residents out for a stroll and young businessmen and women, relaxing after a day at the office.  The Bacardi Rum Plant offers tours, tastings and more at an impressive complex.  San Juan is an intriguing blend of Caribbean island charm and city hustle, a fine place to experience Puerto Rican culture if you have time for only a day's visit. The people are friendly, helpful and welcoming to the tourist. We've visited several times and enjoy exploring the vibrant and distinctive neighborhoods-- from the old Spanish colonial buildings to state of the art restaurants and the same major shopping outlets one finds in Paris, New York or Milan. Visitors notice the bat in several buildings throughout San Juan. The mix of architecture spans the Colonial days to the modern era, with a mix of buildings reflecting the contributions of indigenous people. WE OPTED one day for a self-guided history lesson with a return visit to El Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a 16th-century citadel that’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We stopped at the Bacardi Rum plant for a quick tour then headed for a cooling dip at Carolina Beach and Luquillo, which attract well heeled, deeply tanned Americans and Europeans. We had arranged to meet friends for a late dinner or we would have considered an after-dark kayak adventure through Bioluminescent Bay. Next time. The Caribe Hilton is a glitzy modern resort with all the amenities one could request. Locals perform in holiday garb at the Bacardi Arts Festival coming soon to Old San Juan.  SAN JUAN celebrates Christmas  beginning in early December.  Holiday programs are specially designed for children, and presented at the Dominica Convent, La Fortaleza and City Hall.  The Puerto Rico Symphony and National Folkloric Ballet of Puerto Rico give special performances and San Juan Ballet Company performs Tchaikovsky's "Nutcracker."  Sports fans have plenty to watch, with Canadian teams playing with local teams throughout the island in the Puerto Rico Winter League. Boating enthusiasts enjoy the Puerto Rico International Offshore Cup in mid-December, and there are speedboat races with some of the best offshore teams competing. San Juan with its mix of old and new is a major port and tourist destination, known for its culture, nightlife, lively Old Town and beaches.  FOR HOLIDAY  shoppers, the Bacardi Arts Festival is held each year  the first two Sundays of December. It features more than 100 booths, crafts, rides, typical food and of course drinks of rum.  The festival happens at Bacardi's rum manufacturing plant, the world's largest. One doesn't have to go far to see Bacardi's influence.  The logos and bottles are everywhere.  Casa Bacardi offers tours and classes where you craft your own cocktails.   OLD SAN JUAN lights up right after Thanksgiving, becoming a "White Christmas" with lights, decorations, holiday music and at booths in the windows and plazas. Tourists enjoy life-size nativity creches beginning on Thanksgiving weekend with the  lighting of a giant Christmas tree in Paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan. For information on hotels, tours and what's happening through the holidays:  www.sanjuanpuertorico.com/visitors-information-tourism-offices/ For information on tours and tastingsbacardi.com From American favorites such as this rare steak and fresh veggies, to exotic international fare, we sample Thanksgiving on the road in next week's column.  Please tune in.  UP NEXT:   Thanksgiving is right around the corner, Nov. 28.  We've spent many Thanksgivings at various cities, villages and islands on the road, looking for fun and memorable ways to give thanks for a life of travel. We take readers to the Canary Islands, to Greece, Hong Kong and Barcelona for a look at specialty foods and taste treats for every budget.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly at:   www.whereiscookie.com

Take a walk in a garden to cure what ails you Dahlias recall the photographer's childhood with his mother painting and arranging flowers and his dad growing them. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  "The Carpe Diem Kids" Apples and sunflowers glisten in September sun. MY PARTNER and the photographer for our essays has a soft spot in his heart for flowers. No surprise. His mother, Jean, painted them -- lilies, tulips, chrysanthemums, daisies, the exotic orange bird of paradise and hummingbird-friendly fuschia. His dad, Bill, grew them -- roses mostly, and fruit trees including pomegranate. Keller has been taking photos of flowers since his bloom-loving parents gave him a Brownie box camera for his 10th birthday. AS A CHILD  then teen-ager, he took thousands of photos of flowers --  climbing around on the beaches of his home stomping grounds, near Oceanside, California, where the morning glories bloom in the sand and geraniums grow like weeds in street alleys and up hillsides. Now, during Montana get-aways, he is having a floral field day with the roses that are sharing their showy "hips," He's zooming in on cactus flowers, daisies, alyssum, hollyhocks and even thistle and catnip. Here in the northern Rockies, at High Chaparral, we have yarrow and honeysuckle, snapdragons and cosmos, zinnias and the largest day lilies I've ever grown. High Chaparral in Montana provides a regal setting for flowers. I learned to sort cosmos  from my Irish gran, who taught me to carefully separate the petals from the seeds, and store them in a dry spot for planting next spring. She served up small, tasty floral lore, including the little known fact that alyssum, her favorite border flower, is a fragrant member of the mustard family. SO THIS  is an homage to the beauty of flowers and those who tend them, a salute to the world of blooms which surrounds us. I am thankful for their offerings: the rainbow's hues, the fragrance of nature's finest perfume. To flowers! To those seductive enticers of bees and hummingbirds -- and to the blooms which lured a couple of lucky kids with cameras into the wondrous world of gardens thousands of miles apart. A bee feasts on the daisy, which the writer considers one of her favorites. I'm thinking of my daisy loving gran, now. And the kid from southern California is remembering that first sight of his dad's deep red and coral roses. THE ONES  Keller most fondly remembers from his dad's garden are the succulent red roses.  He says they "dripped color" and that in the moist ocean air, their scent seasoned the entire house and patio. He doesn't remember precisely which one was his dad's favorite, but his rose "dictionary" runs the gamut of the alphabet, from  "Ain't She Sweet" and "Apricot Nectar" to "Beach Rose" and "Blast Off" to "Evening Star,"  "Double Delight,"  "Peace," "Penelope," and "Purple Puff."  He recalls "Sterling Silver" "Sundowner," "Timless," "Tora Tora,"  "Valentine" "Veteran's Honor." He remembers "Whisper," "Zephirine" and a gorgeous peach-colored rose, one his mother painted along with pink and yellow dahlia. She won a blue ribbon in floral arranging at the Del Mar Home and Garden Show in San Diego County. The writer invites the reader into her Montana garden and climbing roses. KELLER'S DAD knew which roses had few thorns, which were climbers, which tolerated mediocre soil, which bloomed all season, which were prone to mildew. At High Chap, we have climbing roses, which shoot their gorgeous deep pink blooms up a fence and onto a nearby cedar gate. The combination of running water fed from an ancient spring box, and the proliferation of rose blooms -- now entering their showy red "rose hip" stage -- attracts visitors. RECENTLY,  we've had deer -- a doe and her twin fawns -- several varieties of bees and wasps, robins, wrens, finches and sparrows, and a brazen stellar's jay, who sings his own  vocal "thank you" to me as I walk by. His dad's favorite roses, grown in southern California,  influenced photographer's love of all things floral. Now that autumn is approaching, the apples are ready for picking and their juices are attracting all kinds of bees and wasps.  Friends Laurie and The pretty prickly pear blossoms are prolific in Montana this year. John are watching the pups, Nick and Nora, while we're photographing whales and glaciers.  Recently, they picked apples with our mutual friends, Lana and Charles. Laurie reported this morning that it was lucky none of the six was stung, with the proliferation of insects and squished, oozing aples. We are excited at the prospects of "apple everything" -- Laurie's jelly is superb, Keller loves apple butter and I make a decent apple crisp and cobbler -- perhaps throwing in the last of the rhubarb which we've kept watered and producing all summer. COMING SOON:   Our travelers wend their way back to Big Sky Country after a glorious two weeks on the glaciers and whale trails of Alaska. They end their escapades with an Argosy boat trip from Puget Sound. Come with them through the locks into Lake Union, past the "Sleepless in Seattle" house boat and crab boats featured on TV's popular "Deadliest Catch." Read about their base, the stylish Pan Pacific Hotel, with its imposing view of the  harbor and Space Needle. Watch for posts and remember to explore, learn and live at: www.whereiscookie.com

AUTUMN COMES TO THE NORTHERN ROCKIES OFFERING SPLENDID PHOTOS, SUNNY HIKING, FROST ON THE PUMPKIN BUT WARMTH IN OUR HEARTS  At top, the Tetons are in full fall glory and in the Beartooths to the north, photographer Rick Cosgriffe takes aim on autumn. AUTUMN LEAVES BEGIN TO FALL, DAYS GROW SHORTER,  SHUTTERBUGS TAKE AIM ON THE GLORIOUS CHANGING SEASON STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The road to High Chaparral, north of Nye, awaits fall's golden touch. IF, AS the great poet T. S. Elliot said, "April is the cruelest month" then September is the kindest.  Days are still long and leisurely, with cool mornings and evenings  accented by hours of dappled sunlight and moon beams. The critters are on the move -- hummingbirds are taking their last gulps of nectar before heading south for hundreds and thousands of miles. A hike to Sioux Charlie finds autumn cloaking the source of the Stillwater. Woodpeckers and eagles, camouflaged by the density of summer foliage, are more visible on the telephone poles and branches. A woodpecker finds a snack, to help him through winter. HIKING OUR parks and national forests is a rare pleasure because the summer hoards have vanished. Gardens produce zucchini the size of footballs. Corn, pears, plums and apples are sweetened by frost. It's my favorite time in the northern Rockies, probably because I'm a hopeless romantic, and there's nothing like fall to bring out the romantic. I'VE RETURNED  to my favorite poets -- looking for poems celebrating the fall season, I've found classics by William Shakespeare, William Blake, John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Emily Dickinson and John Clare. Their poems speak to the gorgeous contrasts in color celebrated by painters over the centuries:  brilliant purples, crimsons, oranges, scarlets, golds as the green fades.  Add one of those favorite painterly colors:  cadmium, a word I've always loved.  With colors so bold and inspiring, why do we feel a bit sad, "afflicted with melancholia," as my grandmother Olive used to say? Sunflowers and crab apples at High Chaparral -- the night before the first freeze. Perhaps we're reminded of our own mortality, and brief spin on glorious planet Earth. WHEN I TRY  to outrun my demons, I turn to nature. It's difficult to be too depressed in this kind of beauty.  But because the days are growing shorter, I also turn to Kurt Weill and Maxwell Anderson and their eloquent "September Song," sung memorably by Weill's wife, Lotte Lenya.   "Oh, it's a long, long while from May to December, but the days grow short when you reach September. When the autumn weather turns the leaves to flame, One hasn't got time for the waiting game." DESPITE  the backdrop of increasingly dreary gray, nature takes on a brilliance and energy.  Just like my Irish gran Olive before she passed away and we played two-handed Mozart and ragtime on the piano. Cookie enjoys the last sunflowers, the night before frost. The harvest moon last week was stellar -- showering its glitter on the aspen below our bedroom window, bathing the berm in a halo of silver light.  Mornings are gorgeous -- clouds disappear like fairy dust. The showers come and go, and  thunder sounds like the sputters of a campfire. SO WITH  temperatures dropping, one spends more time by the fire -- safe and warm inside -- a good time to read poetry, or play that bittersweet "September Song." "Oh the days dwindle down to a precious few, September, November...... and these precious days I'll spend with you..... And the wine dwindles down to a precious brew...these few vintage years I'll spend with you, these precious years I'll spend with you." COMING SOON :   We're on the road again, enjoying this changing season and its gorgeous landscape. Stay tuned for tips on fun digs, eats and theater in Jackson Hole and Teton Village, and a look at real live cowboys moving their cattle to winter pasture. Plus Wapiti Valley near Cody, and Livingston's historic Murray Hotel. Queen Mary turns 80 years old later this month; everyone's invited! Plus the beloved Queen Mary celebrates 80 years with a bang-up party in Long Beach. Remember to enjoy, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com xxx

Mary Tyler Moore's show featured an independent, confident, funny woman. GROUNDBREAKING TV SERIES CHANGED THE WORLD'S TAKE ON CAREER WOMEN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS courtesy Larry Mayer, Billings Gazette and CBS THE DEATH this week of Mary Tyler Moore brought a flood of bittersweet memories of the early 1970s when I was establishing my career as a journalist. While Moore's fictional Mary Richards was fighting for the modern woman, I was a young reporter in Montana, one of many female journalists all over America doing the same thing. Moore's friends and colleagues were painted as real humans. The show, which Moore also produced, featured a single woman forging a career in a male dominated profession. I was doing that in The Billings Gazette newsroom, where I signed on as a college freshman in 1968. My supervisor, Kathryn Wright, was the Gazette's first female reporter when hired  in 1942, "to cover the cops while the men went off to war," she explained. Mary Tyler Moore in her associate producer role in a Minneapolis newsroom. My first job was as "Society Editor,"  a title that itself reflects the times.  Women were largely perceived as housewives. If they worked, it was part-time, out of boredom, for pin money or to augment "the man's" salary. They might volunteer at the symphony or theater, planning fundraisers or galas. But the belief was that women were mostly interested in "society," sipping sherry, playing tennis, lunching with the girls at the country club, maybe venturing to take a secretarial post. (Not that there's anything wrong with that, as Seinfeld would say.) Click here: more on MTM, favorite performers I WANTED MORE  -- as millions of my peers did worldwide. I lobbied for changing the "society" title to "lifestyle." That happened. I aced a night police reporter job, so I could finish my degree by day, and covered major beats including education, city hall and county. By the late 1970s, I was writing film and theater reviews, and editing the arts and travel section. Women in the newsroom were increasing. The show was remarkable -- fine writing, characters who were interesting, multi-dimensional.  Many of the MTM Show writers were women. Journalism has always attracted smart, determined women, from photographer Margaret Bourke White and daring reporter Nellie Bly to Helen Thomas, Gloria Steinem, Nora Ephron, Barbara Walters, Molly Ivins, Christiane Amanpour, Diane Sawyer, Jane Pauley and Gwen Ifill, who broke both race and gender barriers on PBS. They juggled personal lives, sacrificed, demanded attention and equality. My beloved mentor cautioned, "You have to work twice as hard, look twice as good, keep trim, behave yourself, watch your language." Men, she believed, could come to work late with grease on their ties, drink like fish, cuss like sailors, turn bald and fat and be told they looked "distinguished." MARY WAS  single, recently out of a failed Christene Meyers, 1972, in the hairstyle of the day Mary Tyler Moore's Mary Richards character in 1977, nearing the end of the show's smash hit run. relationship. I was single the first part of my long career with Lee Newspapers. My byline for nearly three years was Chris Cosgriffe. I liked its Gaelic ring and alliteration. I was beginning to get national attention.  So when I married Bruce Meyers in 1970, we decided I would keep my maiden name and byline. That was fine with Bruce. He was a modern man. I told the newspaper of my decision. Phyllis, Mary and Rhoda in a studio shot, early 1970s. The show influenced fashion as well as social attitude. Christene enroute to cover the Miss America pageant in 1968. But to my dismay, the managing editor changed my byline. When we returned from our honeymoon in the South Pacific, I had become Chris Meyers. I could have taken them on, but that would have been awkward. I picked my battles in those early days of NOW and the Equal Rights Amendment. I had bigger fish to fry. Mary Tyler Moore got her break as Laura Petrie on "The Dick Van Dyke Show." It laid the groundwork for MTM's character, Mary Richards.    MOORE'S CHARACTER,  dress and attitude were way ahead of her times.  She called "Mr. Grant" on his chauvinism and challenged him for a raise when she discovered her salary was less than her predecessor's. "Why is that, Mr. Grant?" she asked. "Because he was a man," the Ed Asner character replied. 'It has nothing to do with your work." My "Mr. Grant" was Doc Bowler, a genial, sharp, old-school newsman who patrolled the newsroom like a general inspecting his troops.  Bowler's second in command was George, in charge of evaluations and pay raises. I approached him after discovering two of my male colleagues earned more than I did -- yet I'd been in the newsroom longer and received stellar evaluations. George took a puff of his pipe (everyone smoked in those days) and asked: "Your husband makes a good salary, doesn't he?" I was dismayed. What did that have to do with anything. "He's an assistant professor," George continued, "and you don't have children." he said. "So you're doing just fine." Mary Tyler Moore found true love in her third marriage to Dr. Robert Levine. Christene with her late husband, Bruce Meyers. He passed in 1992. Christene with Bruce Keller, her partner since 2007. I eventually got the raise. I had to appeal to Doc Bowler and write a letter outlining my reasons for the request.  When I speak to female college students today, they are amazed at the pay discrepancy and byline change. "That's outrageous," said one young 20-something recently. "What did you do?" I WORKED  for change, as Mary's fictional character and millions of other real live women did. Her character gave us courage, confirming that we were on the right track. Moore's show was among the first to address birth control, homosexuality, sexuality.  When Bruce and I decided to marry, we merged households.  That was highly frowned upon by my bosses, whom I reassured that we were planning to marry. "Good," said one, "but make it soon. People are talking." So much is acceptable now that was verboten then: not taking the man's name, equal pay for equal work, living together before marriage -- or even if marriage isn't planned. We were light years from same-sex acceptance and the notion of pregnancy outside of marriage. Christene, 2015 Mary Tyler Moore,  2008. MY COLLEAGUES  at the Montana newspaper were a western version of the colorful denizens of Mary's newsroom -- the photographer whose specialty was provocative pretty-women shots, the eccentric columnist who liked a nip on his rounds, the union printer who asked me after three years of marriage why "there's no bun in the oven." Again, dismay. "You need one kid, to take care of you when you're old," offered Chuck. Our sports editor, Norm, a fine writer and now a famous Las Vegas columnist, was my pal, my Murray. Later, after Norm left, Roger, another brilliant writer, became my newsroom buddy. We were all rebels, hard-working and irreverent. We didn't have anyone as blatantly sexy as Sue Ann Niven but there was plenty of suggestion and innuendo. I dealt with inappropriate touching (my rear was pinched dozens of times), boob squeezers, and sources who offered information in return for sex. Now, they'd be sued, fired or at the very least reprimanded. Mary Tyler Moore's signature hat in the air. WE'RE WISER  for having known sassy Mary Richards and her savvy creator, Mary Tyler Moore. When I interviewed Moore in 1980, for "Ordinary People," she said her two hit TV shows ("The Dick Van Dyke Show" and MTM) paralleled her life. "I am  those women," she laughed. "If those characters felt real to others, it's because they are so very real to me." She also confessed to wanting to be a professional dancer (she was wonderful.) "Behind that successful actor is a failed dancer," she told me. MY PERSONAL  life paralleled MTM's. She had three relationships, her last with a much loved younger man. She suffered great personal loss and forged onward. She kept her humor and grace, though she didn't become what she originally thought she'd be. (As a kid, I wanted to be a conductor.) She kept her head high, integrity intact. She never stopped laughing or giving, producing more TV shows, inspiring others. Hat's high in the air for you, Mary. You made it, after all. Bruce Keller (and Cookie, at the camera this time) packed up recently for a week in Malaga. They'll tell why it's become a favorite city.  UP NEXT : We've returned to a favorite port of southern Europe, lovely Malaga, an inviting city on southern Spain’s Costa del Sol. Instead of a glamorous high-rise resorts, we chose a splendid parador, high above the yellow-sand beaches and next to a Moorish citadel which gave our delightful Parador Gibralfaro its name. Come with us to the Alcazaba -- and more, remembering to explore, learn and live and follow us Fridays when we post for the weekend.

Veteran actors Jeff Kober, left, and Wally Kurth, have both been in the profession for decades. They have more in common than that, though. Both are native Montanans and now share billing on one of the daytime TV's most enduring and popular dramas,"General Hospital." 'GENERAL HOSPITAL' IS BACK TO FILMING AFTER COVID QUARANTINE BUT IT'S MASKING ON THE SET BETWEEN SHOOTS   In 1994, actors Wally Kurth and Rena Sofer were married in real life. Sofer played the lively character of Lois, from Bensonhurst. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER & Courtesy ABC 'The Carpe Diem Kids'   FANS OF daytime soaps have long known that Billings, Montana, native Wally Kurth plays a compelling character named Ned Ashton Quartermaine on the enduring daytime TV drama, "General Hospital." The long-running show has remained hugely popular, since its 1963 debut, thanks to fine writing, trending storylines and sound acting.  With dozens of interweaving stories, plot twists and complex characters, it spins together melodramatic tales, radiating from the hospital into the characters' homes and private lives. RECENTLY , a second native Montanan signed on to the engaging soap. Enter Billings born Jeff Kober as villain Cyrus Renault. His character -- like Kurth's -- intrigued fans so his role was quickly expanded. Masking between takes, actors Jeff Kober and Wally Kurth. Generations of devoted GH followers have watched avidly as characters marry, divorce, conduct affairs. They've seen them through accidents, illness, missteps, addiction and triumphs. The early stories were set mainly on the seventh floor of General Hospital, in an unnamed midsized Eastern city (the town was called Port Charles in the late 1970s).  "The concept was of a big wagon wheel – the spokes as the characters and the hub as the hospital," says Kurth, 62, who -- except for a few years' hiatus -- has been with the show for decades as the head of a complicated, well known family. Both actors are praised for their authenticity before the camera. Kober, 67, as the nefarious Renault,  Wally Kurth is in the unique position of appearing in two daytime soaps -- "that's just fine with me," he says, but it's a lot of work and many lines. found his antagonistic role expanded both because of his talent and fan interest. Soap production is an evolving proposition, demanding many pages of memorization from the actors, backed by timely, quick and creative writing. 'General Hospital' long running soap Montana connection INITIALLY, THE TWO Montanans played their parts in separate scenes, and GH veteran Kurth "knew" his fellow actor only through his home TV screen, and his body of work. "He is a fine, solid actor," Kurth says, noting Kober's impressive resume. Besides logging a string of memorable movie roles, Kober, who also lived in Park City, won acclaim for his TV roles.  Fans remember his Dodger in "China Beach," Jacob Hale Jr. in "Sons of Anarchy," and Joe in "The Walking Dead." Jeff Kober joined the soap with an impressive dossier of movies and TV shows and guest spots. Both actors have been praised for their genuine quality, critical in making a show work. Says Kurth, "At first, I didn't realize Jeff was a fellow Montanan. Because of the Covid shutdown, it took a while for us to meet." After the quarantine, months went by before the show resumed shooting. Ironically, Kurth's first scene back was with Kober. "We were both wearing masks -- so it  was a little odd. It's nice when the masks come off." LIKE MOST talented people, each man has broad interests. Kurth is a talented musician who does benefits for special causes. Kober, who played trumpet in high school, teaches meditation and yogic philosophy, and signs his emails with a friendly "peace."  While Kober was establishing a successful film career in the 1980s, Kurth was becoming a soap star, a distinction he's held since 1987, as the only actor featured simultaneously in two soaps, his Justin Kiriakas on "Days of Our Lives" and "General  Hospital's" Quartermaine.  Kurth holds dear a real-life hospital, internationally known Shriner's Children's Hospital, a favorite charity. Kober's character has startling connections to the town, here with Donnell Turner, who plays detective Curtis Ashford. OCCASIONALLY, LIFE IMITATES art -- in Hollywood and at "General Hospital." Kurth and GH actor Rena Sofer were love interests on and off the set in 1994. Their brief marriage produced a much loved daughter, Rosabel, who is pursuing her MFA in Fine Art at Carnegie Mellon. Says Kurth, "She is an amazing artist. I'm so proud of her." "General Hospital" is filmed in Prospect Studios . What accounts for the show's enduring appeal? A devotee from Menifee, California, GH aficionado Melody Cogsdill, follows the show's intersecting storylines and credits its popularity with sound acting, compelling storylines and inventive writing. "I think they have the best writers and actors in the business," she reflects. Kober's character Renault "was introduced as an unredeemable villain," says Cogsdill. "He is a wonderful actor, so I couldn't stand his character! Now I am fascinated by Renault -- and Kober's acting skills." Giving viewers a glimpse into Renault's past, she adds, "lets us see how his upbringing affected his moral compass. I look forward to more scenes with him." About Kurth's character, the longtime fan says, "He’s adorable. I really miss him when he isn’t on the show. I can never tell if he is underhanded and charming, or just plain charming. He is perfect as the head of the Quartermaine clan."     Jeff Kober with Linda Hunt in an NCIS: Los Angeles episode . FINE WRITERS, Kurth says, continue the intention of GH creators Frank and Doris Hursley, offering a captivating series of vignettes reflecting the panoply of life and the human condition: loyalty and devotion, adultery, drug and alcohol addiction, betrayal, car wrecks, theft, death, marital affairs, con artists, manipulators, idealists. There's plenty of tragedy and surprise, but also celebration -- with memorable characters, continually evolving. The story of one famous pair, Luke and Laura, broke viewing records in 1981 when 30 million Americans tuned in for their wedding. The  episode featured famed actor Elizabeth Taylor,  a GH fan,  cast in a cameo at the wedding as the widow of Mikkos Cassadine. She bestowed a curse on Luke and Laura, believing they'd killed her husband. Elizabeth Taylor made a cameo appearance at Luke and Laura's wedding, watched by 30 million .   COGSDILL BELIEVES  both Kurth's suave Quartermaine and Kober's villainous Renault are intriguing to viewers.  She hopes they both endure. Kurth speculates that Kober's character will stick around, noting that his colleague's 40 years in the business include memorable guest spots with acclaimed actors such as Linda Hunt, on "NCIS: Los Angeles." Actors Anthony Geary and Genie Francis had a torrid love affair as Luke and Laura on "General Hospital."   Jeff Kober 's Cyrus Renault spars in a scene with Alexis Davis, played by Nancy Lee Grahn. On set, masking and safety protocols make the work even more challenging, the men agree. Says Kurth, "We are required to wear our masks as soon as we leave our cars in the parking lot. The only time we take them off is for make up and while the cameras are rolling. It’s a little daunting running our lines at rehearsal with a mask." It's a nice surprise, the men say, to see actual faces for the first time when the cameras roll! Perhaps, says Kurth, "It adds to our “fresh” performances!"    LEARNING  huge numbers of pages in a day could tax lesser actors, but the two Montanans and the seasoned cast keep up with the pace which, says Kober, "can get crazy." He adds, "I’ve been incredibly fortunate. It’s a gift to be employed in this business at any time, but particularly in the middle of the pandemic. I couldn’t be happier." Says Kurth, "It's challenging, going back and forth between the two shows. But I wouldn't have it any other way."   UP NEXT: Perfect weather, a beautiful ship and gifted narration by an experienced guide result in perfect whale watching this time of year in San Diego. Come with us aboard Flagship's Marietta, to explore the migratory patterns of the graceful grey whale. You'll learn about the life of this remarkable animal, nearly driven to extinction. We were pleased with the distancing, masking, safety aboard with one-quarter capacity and a helpful, informed crew. Flagship offers quality time and prime, leisurely viewing of the greys. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more. Please tell your friends and share the link: whereiscookie.com

Jackson Hole Playhouse, at age 99, is a year younger than the town.  Here, in the rain, it's a nostalgic, pretty sight. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Rolling into Jackson feels like stepping straight into a classic Western postcard, where elk antler arches frame the town square and the rugged beauty of Jackson Hole surrounds you in every direction. It’s the kind of place that begs you to slow down on a road trip and soak it all in—browse local shops, grab a bite, and take in the mountain air before the real fun begins. An evening at the Jackson Hole Playhouse is an absolute must, blending comedy, music, and audience participation into a one-of-a-kind Western dinner theater experience that will have you laughing long after the curtain falls. Equal parts scenic and spirited, Jackson Hole offers that rare combination of natural beauty and lively entertainment that makes it a standout stop on any road trip through the American West. An energetic cast performs several places in  the vintage theater -- here the lobby.   THEY MAY  call the wind Mariah. But they call Jackson Hole Playhouse pure, unadulterated, old-fashioned, down-home western style fun. A lovely meal comes accompanied by spirited pre-show specialty numbers, then diners move from a warm and intimate restaurant area toward a historic theater for a top-notch performance. Paint Your Wagon" is drawing enthusiastic audiences at Jackson's play house.  " If you're looking for an original diversion between side trips through beautiful Grand Teton Park, head for Jackson and the Playhouse. It's just a short hop from Teton Village, if that's where you're staying, as we were. Keller adds his salute to the old West, at a lookout near the town. ONCE IN the town of Jackson, which turned 100 this year, you're find the theater only a block off main street. Look for the elk antler arches which surround the town square. Happily, for a small-town venue, the acting quality is highly professional.  The ensemble is from throughout the U.S., all with impressive performance records and experience in venues ranging from civic theater to cabaret and even off Broadway. Singers mingle with theater lovers during the energetic cameos, and requests are even taken! The pre-show meal is delightful. Bring your own wine, though, for a small corkage fee. Bruce Keller, above, gets a friendly smooch from Christine, one of the dancers, at Jackson Hole Playhouse where she's a star. Jackson's town square is bordered on all four corners by elk antler arches. Owner Vicki Garnick has devoted her energy and talent to the endeavor for 30 years.  She wears multiple hats, as owner, proprietor, producer and director.  She's also undertaken a massive renovation and fund drive for the theater's 100th birthday in 2015.  (Tax deductible donations are welcome to PO Box 4772, Jackson, Wyo., 83001). THE NON-PROFIT  entertainment on the boards made for a spirited  outing. Shows continue into autumn with "Phantom of the Playhouse" for Halloween, "Elf" for the holidays and "Weekend Comedy" for Valentine's Day and into March. Call 307 733-6994 or go to  www.jhplayhouse.com Our Jackson Hole Wyoming travel guide notes that the town is celebrating its first 100 years with fanfare -- barbecues, cowboy poetry, dancing and sealing of a time capsule. In the tiny town of Wilson, near Jackson, you can drive up for a bottle of wine. AND DON'T  overlook Teton Village, with its world famous Grand Teton Music Festival gearing up again for the summer of 2015.  The beautiful park near our base, The Inn at Jackson Hole, is a delightful place to stroll and the inn offers spacious rooms with gorgeous mountain and village views. The Village Cafe's satisfying breakfast is included in your room price. The village is much newer than Jackson, designed for the ski and tourist trades. but the music festival and top-rated skiing have brought international exposure. Do stroll through the lovely park, taking notice of the bear-proof trash cans and the colorful ski stickers on metal dumpsters. The ski tram runs during summer and autumn, too, offering spectacular valley views. And in nearby towns, you can even find a drive-through wine bar! An artfully landscaped park in central Teton Village connects hotels and eateries to the ski tram, which runs in summer too! Wapiti Valley holds many delights and stellar landscape. COMING SOON:  Whoa Nellie, What about a night or two in the Wapiti Valley, near Cody? This beautiful corner of the West is right outside of Cody, Wyo., enroute to Yellowstone Park. You'll see sublime roadside beauty, real cowboys herding cattle to winter pasture and fall foliage to make you weep with joy! Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out at www.whereiscookie.com

BAJA TRIP OFFERS FAST GROWING CABO SAN LUCAS AND QUIET AND ARTSY TODO SANTOS The approach to Cabo San Lucas is a memorable one, with its unique rock formations. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" At the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula, where desert landscapes meet the deep blue of the Pacific, Cabo San Lucas delivers the kind of getaway that feels both effortless and unforgettable. Famous for the dramatic rock formation El Arco, this vibrant coastal town blends sun-soaked beaches, world-class marine life, and a lively atmosphere that keeps travelers coming back. Whether you're chasing adventure on the water, indulging in fresh seafood by the marina, or simply soaking in a golden sunset, Cabo offers a little bit of everything without ever feeling overwhelming. REMEMBER  that bittersweet Eagles song of the 1970s, "Hotel California"? The song may refer to a hotel in the sleepy little town of Todos Santos, which means "all saints."  Ironic, given the attraction to the place from the not-so-saintly musicians of the day. Besides the Eagles, many other other rock stars stayed there, including Crosby Stills and Nash. Of course Keith Richards married Patti  Hansen there. But the genesis of the famous song can't be authenticated. Cabo tourists enjoy spectacular beach views Above, top, . And Todos Santos is proud of its beautiful mission church. Cabo San Lucas travel guide, overview FIRST, CABO SAN Lucas.  The rock formations of this lovely place on the Baja California tip are legendary.  We'd explored them before, along with many other tourist boats full of anglers (the sport fishing is world class), snorkelers, and other varieties of sun seekers. All of us reveled in the peace and beauty, spiced up by the region's reputation for fun. Baja California peninsula, in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur, is home to "Los Cabos" -- Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo . Above, the bathroom of Hotel California, below, is a throw-back to 1970s hippy days. The bay of Cabo San Lucas was once a base for pirate vessels waiting to pounce on Spanish treasure ships. Even fifteen years ago, it was little more than a fishing and canning village occasionally visited by adventurous sports fishermen. Its beach escapes, fabulous snorkeling, parasailing, scuba and sea exploration now recommend it to wealthy second-home owners.  And it has its own "outback," complete with camels.  A few of our group took the camel trek, actually riding on the beasts as they photographed indigenous flora and fauna. New hotels and condos are going up throughout the Baja peninsula. Cabo is also famous for its glassware.  We visited a factory, and stopped at a lovely vista to sip a margarita or two. Salsa -- both the dance and the sauce -- is an artform in Cabo; lively music echoed from the hotel lobbies and pools. Glassware in bright colors makes popular gifts in Cabo's many shops. CABO NATIVES  are proud of their dolphins, too, claiming these smart and graceful creatures flirt with and communicate with those who venture into the water to swim with them. In winter, Cabo boasts that it has the best whale watching on the Pacific, but I'd put our San Diego whale watching ventures up against theirs.  Still, the peninsula is known for its superb spots to view migrating whales.  Human travelers -- including golfers from all over the world -- come to Cabo for its inviting greens, many with splendid sea views. Cabo's distinctive rock formations. Cabo's colorful history includes many shipwreck stories, and you can still dive for vestiges of the doomed vessels. Scuba aficionados seek out ruins around Pelican Rock, Land's End, Neptune's Finger, Sand Falls, and other imaginative names. Cookie strolls a sculpture arcade in Todos Santos' zocalo. The display honors residents who made contributions to the town.  WE WERE  happy we'd chosen the trek to Todos Santos, a small coastal town at the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, on the Pacific side of the Peninsula.  It's only an hour's drive north of Cabo but it's another world -- quiet, unspoiled, with mango, avocado and papaya trees downtown. The rocks call, and the fun awaits. Keller shops for a t-shirt in pretty Todos Santos. The trip to Todos took us past gorgeous new hotels designed for  U.S. and European tourists. Condos attract ex-patriots, college students on breaks and time share owners, all discovering the Baja. Arriving in Todos Santos, we were greeted by friendly people, quaint galleries and shops, the famous and popular Hotel California with its unique bathrooms, and a beautiful old Jesuit mission. The Jesuits settled in the 1700s, and the church is well loved.   We walked past an artful sculpture arcade honoring town founders and leaders.  We admired restored colonial buildings from the last century and enjoyed ice cream in the zocalo -- town square -- a colorful gathering spot. THE TOWN  is  a haven for artists, craftsmen, surfers and travelers seeking adventure, nature and what some call "Mexico's healthiest lifestyle." Todos attracts hikers, surfers, wildlife enthusiasts, kayakers, snorkelers and birders, too.  The two destinations are radically different.  While Todos Santos' waters are quiet, Cabo's bay boasts high-powered, radar-equipped fishing yachts. Multi-million-dollar second homes are going up in prime vantage points, fringed by thousands of transplanted palms. Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos offer many birds; this booby was our escort down the Baja, into Central America and home. WHILE TODOS  Santos felt authentic and Mexican, our Cabo San Lucas travel guide recognizes that this booming tourism oriented city feels more like the U.S. than part of Mexico.  We spoke to content ex-pats who bragged about a mammoth Wal-Mart, new restaurants and a choice of fancy bars.  Puerto Paraíso, an enormous mall on the marina, has everything one can purchase in the states. Each place has much to recommend it, but you'll decide which suits your fancy best -- Cabo San Lucas or Todos Santos. And you can always visit them both. More information: visitloscabos.com Both Cabo and Todos Santos offer many tour options including with Trip Advisor and Viator: tripadvisor.com ; viator.com COMING SOON :  The magnificent boobies, and we don't mean female breasts. We're about travel advice and adventure tips with a sense of fun. Remember to explore, learn and live.  Visit us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more at: www.whereiscookie.com

Huge elephant seals -- mostly females and pups -- bask on the central California coast, a rare treat for tourists. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" There are few places in California where nature feels as raw and unscripted as the Elephant Seal Rookery near Piedras Blancas. The rookery is just north of Hearst Castle along the iconic California State Route 1, where the landscape opens into a windswept shoreline but the soundtrack is anything but peaceful. Deep, guttural bellows echo across the sand as enormous male elephant seals some weighing over two tons battle for dominance, while mothers nurse their pups just yards away. It’s chaotic, mesmerizing, and completely wild -- a reminder that along this scenic drive, the real show isn’t always the ocean views, but the life unfolding right beside it. Above, a huge male bellows to show dominance and below a much smaller pup rests. COMFY BEDS, FIREPLACE, VIEWS AT CAVALIER MAKE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA COAST APPEALING -- PLUS ELEPHANT SEALS TO WATCH YEARS AGO,  we were looking for a mid-way stop between our niece's home in Redwood City and Port Hueneme lovely harbor, where we'd spend a few days before heading into the home stretch for San Diego. The beautifully rugged coastline of Central California has long been a favorite of ours, and during that long ago autumn, we discovered Cavalier Oceanfront Resort.  We've been regulars ever since. It's private, offers fresh air and spectacular views, Gorgeous sunsets await in Central California, where the ocean views and walking are tops. The town of San Simeon is most famous for the temporarily closed Hearst Castle, that stately and eclectic masterpiece designed by architect Julia Morgan for newspaper baron William Randolph Hearst. The view from your private balcony at Cavalier Oceanfront Resort on the Central California Coast is stellar. You will find you don't want to leave your room, but there's lots to see if you do. CHIEF LURE for us is the resort, nestled on a scenic seaside bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. You'll never want to leave your room, with its comfy balcony rocking chairs, spacious relaxing interior complete with desk if you're on a work trip, and splendid day-long views. Cavalier Oceanfront Resort offers a calming, lovely welcome and is near the elephant seal rookery.  Located on picturesque Highway 1, the laid back but top service hotel is dog and family friendly.  It also attracts wedding parties and families on holiday or reunion.  And it's a favorite romantic stop for couples, including regulars like ourselves.  It's a great base for exploring beaches, the nearby Paso Robles wine country, and the quaint seaside village of Cambria with its fun shops, historic homes and fine restaurants. And yes, elephant seals.. WE LOVE the Cavalier for its gorgeous ocean view rooms.  Among bountiful amenities are a welcoming fireplace, with unlimited wood blocks, a smart little bar-frig stocked with a dozen beverages, and plentiful munchies for a kicked-back stay.  Cavalier's ocean view rooms have a fireplace, comfy arm chairs and balcony rockers so you can enjoy the sea from inside or outside your room.  Besides large rooms with comfy beds, we are delighted at the efficient room service with a surprisingly complete menu. (We dined in one night on a tasty Caesar salad, terrific clam chowder and decadent chocolate cake.) The Cavalier has some interesting touches, including a column, once part of Hearst's collection. WE EVEN STAYED an extra day so we could visit the amazing critters who inhabit Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery.  Since we discovered the hotel, we've made an annual pilgrimage to see these gentle giants up close and in their element. These magnificent marine mammals lie on the beach, and occasionally swim and frolic, just off Highway 1, along the coastline a few miles north of the Cavalier. The rookery is free, and open to the public, year-round. The rookery hosts the largest seal in the northern hemisphere, and these elephant seals migrate there twice each year.  While offshore, they spend eight or nine months diving down to 5,800 feet, feeding for hours at a time. The rest of the year, they mate, birth, molt, and rest onshore. What a life. We see them right near the Cavalier, about 90 miles south of Monterey. Elephant Seal Rookery California The busy but not over-crowded viewing areas are open every day, are wheelchair accessible and free. The nicely designed viewing areas are part of the California Coastal National Monument, protected by the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.   The magnificent elephant seals of the Central California Coast near Cavalier Oceanfront Resort are a wonderful sight .   WE COUNTED several hundred seals of the estimated 24,000 the rookery hosts during the year.  We spotted several baby elephant seals and a couple giant 5,000-pound adult males, who sport that odd bulbous nose. Females weigh about 1,800 pounds, and newborn pups about 70 pounds. The animal's name comes from the male nose, which resembles an elephant’s trunk. This crazy looking proboscis impresses other males during during mating season when the guys sound a loud loud call to challenge one another. We heard a few!   Central California coast's elephant seals are photographed by nature lovers worldwide.   WHAT MAKES the rookery special to us is that the elephant seal is a real  comeback kid.  The species was almost wiped out by hunters. Like whales, they were slaughtered by the thousands from the 18th to the 20th century. Using blubber for oil nearly drove the elephant seal to the extinct list. At one point, only a single colony of 50 seals remained on an island in Baja. IF YOU CAN  pull yourself away from the Cavalier's ocean views, a first-class coffee maker in your room, cocktails in the frig, a fire place and that fabulous bed, the helpful folks at the front desk will guide you to the elephant seals, just a few miles up the road. They'll also encourage a visit to Cambria, a nearby village worth a few hours. There's also beach time, wine tasting and hiking possibilities. There's plenty to do and see. And you can always consider Cavalier a friendly yet private place to just "plunk down" for a few days. The hotel is a lovely destination in itself. cavalierresort.com elephantseal.org An uncrowded bird's eye view from a perch above the Pacific, near scenic Point Arena, in northern California. UP NEXT: We've assembled some of our favorite scenic shots from this current road trip. Come enjoy the rivers, woods, beaches and off-road wonders that can be yours on a safety-minded, short or long driving trip. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more:  whereiscookie.com Please share the link, too! We appreciate the exposure.

All aboard for a fabulous time aboard the charming St. Kitts Scenic Railway -- into the lush tropical Caribbean environment. ALL ABOARD FOR A FINE TIME AT THE BEACH, TRAIN, ECO PARK, BAYS AND BUCOLIC BASSETERRE Sit back, take in the fantastic scenery aboard the historic St. Kitts Scenic Railway, the Caribbean's oldest. You can sail one way to the ride, and take the train back to your ship.  Tropical cocktails hit the spot. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" ST. KITTS IS the kind of place that encourages a cocktail. It also invites exploration. We combined those two pursuits on the charming St. Kitts Scenic Railway.  Over a century old, it is a link with the island's once thriving sugar industry.  A few plantations sprinkle the landscape, but the railway is far more interesting.  It is alive, moving and fun. Artists abound on St. Kitts, attracted by the lovely breezes and sea views. The island's batik artists have an international reputation. WE BELLIED UP  to a generous train bar, our first clue that St. Kitts delivers.  Because the day was early -- not yet noon -- we opted for a virgin guava and strawberry drink.  Our fellow travelers, however, deemed it to be cocktail hour. So our pleasant native islander, a jovial bartender, served up dozens of daiquiris, rum punches, pina coladas and other custom beverages.  She cheerfully satisfied three dozen of us, with help from a large blender, plenty of ice, her two-fisted magic and our own able passing of glasses to the appropriate customers. THE PLEASANT   l and-and-sea day began aboard a smooth catamaran ride from beautiful Basseterre. We strolled the town, one of the oldest in the eastern Caribbean, with bucolic touches accented by many green-black-red flags.  They symbolize the rich land, the slaves' contributions and the struggles.  Through several rules, St. Kitts was a French colony, then declared the capital of the island by the British in 1727. St. Kitts offers beautiful beaches and several famous bays: Frigate, Friar's, and Banana and Cockleshell, "the twins." St. Kitts Delivers -- here's why -- the sugary truth Sugar's siren song captivated the world in the early 1700s because she had the perfect tropical climate and rich volcanic soil to supply the booming demand for sugar.  The island's sugar industry was one of the Caribbean's most successful, with 68 plantations dotting 68 square miles in the glory days. We spent part of our day with new friends, hiking through abandoned fortresses and the remnants of once glorious plantations, rich in architectural details in the midst of swaying sugar cane fields and farm critters. The town of Basseterre retains much of its Colonial charm, plus natural beauty. THEY RAVED  about their day of touring, which included a challenging mountain hike and a view of a dormant volcano. We were happy with our time on the island, discovering why St. Kitts delivers during a town stroll, boat ride and railway selection which featured a lively discourse embracing the sugar history, local folklore and the island's stunning ocean vistas.  We saw grazing  pigs and goats, learned where to get the best grouper and jerk, enjoyed a strolling vocal trio and heard tips on snorkeling for which St. Kitts is famous.  Nevis appears in the distance, photographed from our catamaran. St. Kitts delivers at every turn. We admired in the distance the lovely peaks of Nevis, the West Indian Island that shaped Alexander Hamilton.  The two islands   constitute one country: the Federation of Saint Kitts and Nevis. Years ago, we spent a week on quiet Nevis -- awakened by the call of the monkeys -- relaxing in plush digs of a converted sugar mill.  Nevis is also known for its pristine beaches including the famous Pinney's. We experienced crystal clear snorkeling at Oualie there, too.                          A VISIT TO  St. Kitts should include two more stops: the historic Brimstone Hill Fortress for its stunning views and ambiance, and a unique state-of-the-art Eco Park with a demonstration farm and plantation style visitors center. If you golf, St. Kitts has some of the world's most attractive courses. And its batik art is world famous.  As we sailed out of St. Kitts, we wondered why Columbus bypassed it on his search for the New World.  How he missed landing on its lovely pink sand beaches, we'll never know. Bruce Keller enjoys a brisk winter visit to Paris, where here he pauses across the Seine from Notre Dame Cathedral surrounded by prints of the city's famed sights. UP NEXT:  Off to Paris, for night life, architecture, lights, fountains, fashion, history and of course, fabulous food. Is there a city that combines these elements in such alluring fashion? We think not. And off season, there are more benefits -- crowds are gone and museums and restaurants aren't crowded. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh twist on travel, the arts, nature and romance. Mais oui. Et s'il vous plait, tell your friends about us and consider leaving a comment.  We are over a million views now, thanks to you!

GET A BIRD'S EYE GLIMPSE OF THE HOMES AND LIFESTYLE OF THE FILTHY RICH Fort Lauderdale's famous Water Taxi takes tourists and locals on the city's famous waterways, with ease and beauty. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER DECADES AGO  -- before the white man set foot here --  water was the only way to get around in what is now Fort Lauderdale. It's still the most relaxing, prettiest and most interesting way to see the sights. One sees the beautiful back yards of the mansions from the canals. If you love star gossip and wouldn't shy from a glimpse of the rich and famous, Fort Lauderdale's your place. NFL stars, singers, musicians, actors, writers and, yes, porn stars invested in Fort Lauderdale. TO YOUR LEFT  ladies and gentlemen:  that's where Sonny and Cher lived for years. Down the way, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz loved their little white home on the corner. Andy Griffith lived nearby.  He loved to come out in his own boat. ("Little" in Lauderdale may mean 5,000 square feet, so keep that in mind.) Over there -- that's the palatial estate where many "Magnum P.I." episodes were shot. There's the home of an oil sheik from Saudi Arabia.  He bought his daughter a little place down the canal for a wedding gift last fall. WE'VE BEEN  to Fort Lauderdale many times, always on the prowl for new adventures. Fort Lauderdale at night is aglow with street and water traffic. The town has exciting nightlife, beautiful waterfront dining, and gorgeous shops on fashionable Las Olas Boulevard, the Rodeo Drive of southern Florida. But the town's Intracoastal Waterway system makes its canals a unique and beautiful way to see the sights. You'll learn the city's history from the draw bridges of the historic Esplanade area, to the "spring break" beaches, resort areas, new homes and stately old ones. WHETHER YOU want history, scenery, eateries or a blend, Fort Lauderdale's Water Taxi service will deliver.  Its main route travels in two directions, upbound and downbound. Is this croc for real?  See for yourself on Fort Lauderdale's water taxi. DOWNBOUND  takes you down to the New River, and the downtown Fort Lauderdale and the trendy yet historic Las Olas area. Upbound takes you “up” north, towards the Galleria Mall and Shooters Restaurant. The Hollywood Route, heads south to Hollywood Beach, the young crowd and beach life. It's a thrill to move via water taxi under one of the several Fort Lauderdale bridges. WE'VE HOPPED  on and off many times and have always had entertaining, helpful crew. They know their stuff, like to chat about the locals and their mansions, and help you get where you need to go. In fact, the crew will happily help you plan your time in Fort Lauderdale, as you cruise past the town's sites. They know the history, the mansions, the stars, the sales prices and new and former owners of the sleek mega yachts. They share tips on the hottest restaurants, bars and attractions steps from water taxi stops. They offer discounts at the eateries and attractions for water taxi travelers. THE FORT  Lauderdale Water Taxi runs year-round, closing only Christmas Day. During the huge upcoming Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, service will be limited because the waterways are the main boat show venues. Fort Lauderdale's water life is at the heart of the city.   THE WATER  taxis glide by the town's exciting nightlife, outdoor eateries, the famous shops of Las Olas Boulevard, beautiful beaches, yacht clubs and majestic cruise ships traveling in and out of Port Everglades. Nothing worldwide compares to Fort Lauderdale's Intracoastal Waterway. Its lovely canals are so unique and beautiful, they have earned Fort Lauderdale the moniker “Venice of America.” Water Taxi is the best way to see them! Cookie waits in the wind for a water taxi to take her to dinner. THE WATER Taxi can also take you to Hollywood! Hop on in Fort Lauderdale at Stop 5 -- The Hilton Marina/Convention Center -- and hop off in the heart of Hollywood Beach, steps from fabulous dockside eateries. The Hollywood trip allows visitors to transfer in Fort Lauderdale. And when much of the world is snow-covered, the Hollywood Water Taxi is prepared for any weather.  It runs December through April and features a cabin with both air conditioning and heat, a full bar, snacks and restrooms. Flamingos abound in their brilliant plumage, and we visit them next. ON TAP: Fort Lauderdale's wildlife and flowers are world famous. Bonnet House beckons, with gorgeous gardens and the inspiration for the estate's name, the bonnet lily. In mid-Ft. Lauderdale sits a verdant acreage and home, show piece of a history-minded, arts loving family who gave it to Florida. Lauderdale has the bustle and hustle of a beach town, but with playful flamingos, crocodiles and a wildlife refuge. How does nature survive and thrive among high rises, condos and mega-mansions. The welcoming Hyatt Pier 66 puts us in the center of the action.  We're about adventure tips with a sense of fun so take time to explore, learn and live. Visit us Wednesdays, weekends and as the muse invites, at  www.whereiscookie.com

AMID CITY LIFE, BUILDINGS AND BUSTLE, FLORIDA'S UNIQUE WILDLIFE THRIVES IN BIRD PARKS, EVERGLADES AND HISTORIC HOUSE Flamingo Gardens Botanical Collection. Flamingos frolic and show their lovely pastel coral shades during a recent visit to Fort Lauderdale. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Flamingos share the spotlight with this peacock at Flamingo Park.  THREE THOUSAND  years ago, the Tequesta Indians fished the winding intracoastal waterways of Fort Lauderdale, probably enjoying the beauty of the waterlilies and living off the bounty of the agricultural land the waters nourished. Perhaps they glided on their kayaks past flamingos and peacocks. Maybe they harvested or tangled with a fresh-water crocodile or two! They could have enjoyed the friendly presence of the manatee, who still gives birth in the waters that are now part of Fort Lauderdale. Hyatt Pier 66 is a landmark in Fort Lauderdale, with easy water access. OUR BASE  for a four-day sight seeing extravaganza was the lovely Hyatt Regency Pier 66,   which gives new meaning to "room with a view."  This elegant hotel in Fort Lauderdale is world renowned for dazzling views, resort-style amenities, enticing dining venues and on-site activities. We also love it because it's on the Water Taxi route we've written about.  It offers its own oasis, set amid 22 acres of gorgeous landscaping flanked with dozens of royal palms and a huge, Disneyland-style chess set. The Flamingo Sanctuary provides sanctuary for  Yosh and Shula Wickman, left, Cookie and Keller, right. THE HYATT'S WORLD -class marina provides the ideal getaway in the yachting capital of the world and we sampled several of its five restaurants. We were just a quick cab ride to Flamingo Gardens Botanical Collection and Everglades Wildlife Sanctuary , where we spent a relaxing day with friends who'd flown from Israel the week before. The lovely Botanical Gardens are a showcase for over 3,000 species of rare and exotic, tropical, subtropical and native plants. The Arboretum contains some of the largest trees in the state of Florida. Hyatt Pier 66 offers dining, rooms with gorgeous views. WE ENJOYED a ride in a small open-air trolley that took us around the gardens, under imposing banyan trees and through carefully tended groupings of various Florida flowers. Then it was time for the wildlife lecture and show, featuring an on-site naturalist who introduced us to several critters in stages of rehabilitation.   This was a wonderful half hour, enjoyed by families whose children were attentive as the owl, raccoon, snake and others were shown and discussed to their wonderment. Florida's moist, warm climate provides an abundance of  lovely flowers. THE 60-ACRE  Flamingo Gardens is a showcase for over 3,000 species of rare and exotic, tropical, subtropical, and native plants. The Arboretum through which we drove boasts some of the largest trees in the state of Florida. The Everglades Wildlife Sanctuary within the expanse gives residence to permanently injured and non-releasable birds and animals, and is home to the largest collection of Florida native wildlife- including alligators, bear, bobcats, eagles, otters, panthers, peacocks and flamingos. The crocodile, directly above, and the alligator, above him, co-exist in southern Florida.    THE EVERGLADES Wildlife Sanctuary gives residence to permanently injured and non-releasable birds and animals, and is home to the largest collection of Florida native wildlife- including alligators, bear, bobcats, eagles, otters, panthers, peacocks and flamingos. Birds are part of the wonderful landscape at the Flamingo Gardens. You will also want to dip over to the Florida Everglades with its complex eco-system. Its myriad rivers, canals and lakes range from the Florida panhandle to South Florida, and several tours from Fort Lauderdale will take you there. THE UNUSUAL  merging of salt and freshwater is the only location in America where both alligators and crocodiles live together!    You can take an airboat trip in the Everglades, and see an alligator wrestling demonstration -- free with your airboat ticket. Big husky fellas looking like extras in "Deliverance" wrestle down the gators, with techniques they supposedly learned from the Seminole Indians. UP NEXT:   We take you to the extraordinary artistic wonders of Fort Lauderdale's Bonnet House, with its gorgeous gardens and art galleries.  The 1920 home and acreage sit in the middle of  Fort Lauderdale, a soothing surprise much like a country estate, right in the middle of a bustling city, and nestled below a skyline of condos and mansions.   Artist Frederic Clay Bartlett designed  the unique home. We're all about exploration, adventure and learning, always with a sense of fun. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com