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Finishing touches are complete as the Alberta Bair Theater, formerly the Fox Theatre, opens its doors  once again. The 1931 building celebrates its 90th birthday with a grand reopening and gala concert. The Fox Theater, after the first renovation, circa 1990, and before the most recent "redo." BUILDING'S 90TH BIRTHDAY, GALA CONCERT CELEBRATE A TOWN'S PERFORMING ARTS LEGACY AND A TALENTED DIRECTOR WHO HEPED SAVE IT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER, and courtesy ABT, 20th Century Fox, archives of CM HISTORY IS made this week with the grand “reopening” of the Alberta Bair Theater in downtown Billings, Montana. The $13.6 million renovation salutes the building's 90-year history. Broadway star Kristin Chenoweth headlines a gala  concert in an evening of nostalgia and celebration. Kristin Chenoweth will sing at a gala concert at the ABT.  For me and thousands of others, the ABT will always be “the Fox.” For here as a wide-eyed youngster, I heard many of the great artists of the 20th Century.  In this 1931 building – and the slightly older Babcock -- I developed my love of the performing arts. As a child, I was spellbound at cellist Gregor Piatigorsky, violinist Yascha Heifetz, singers Paul Robeson and Marian Anderson. Community Concerts hosted a string of Metropolitan Opera stars, dancers, singers, jazz greats Tony Bennett, Harry James and Mel Torme.   AS A YOUNG reporter and arts reviewer,    I interviewed legions of these performers in the shabby basement green room: Virgil Fox, Robert Merrill, Alvin Ailey, Bella Lewitzsky, Martha Graham, Arthur Fiedler, so many more.   The all-male Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo sold out a pair of performances.   I GREW UP with "our Fox," one of hundreds of movie palaces named for film mogul William Fox, whose empire numbered into hundreds nationwide. WHEN I  launched the campaign to save the building in 1976, I recruited many of my newspaper sources -- museum and library heads, professors, actors,  ranchers, bankers. We were fortunate to woo talented director Skip Lundby as manager and artistic director during my 10-year tenure as president of Fox Committee. His vision, dedication and genius in directing and producing on a shoestring turned the corner for the building's salvation. To save money, he made a small "apartment" in the Fox, sleeping in the projection booth, heating hotdogs on stage lights.  The 1931 Fox Theater, above, and below left.       Skip Lundby's passion for the arts and the building helped save it for posterity.   SKIP -- like myself -- was  sentimental about the venerable old building  and wanted to save it from the wrecker's ball.  Many  artistic tastes were sharpened here and Skip and the rest of my Fox Committee shared this passion. Not a single person declined to join the cause to "Save the Fox," and quickly, initial opponents of the project were clamoring to join the board. It became a "fashionable" cause. The Fox Committee took over utilities at the building which Carisch Theaters was still running as a movie house. We struggled to book a regular "imported "season, and did so, including two sold-out showsof  Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo. Our first big locally produced show was in 1977, the charming "I Do! I Do!" for which  I played pit piano, enticing my old friend and violin teacher Jim O'Brien, to conduct. My late husband Bruce Meyers and Cathy Hansen played the leads. Skip directed. Our wonderful orchestra included then Billings Symphony concertmaster Eloise Kirk and  with our own private funds, Bruce and I offered a small stipend. I charmed the musicians and they loved the musical's storyline. Once again, no one said no to me.  Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Meyers in period garb for "Our Town."   Alberta Bair wanted to name the building Bair Family Theater but we convinced her to honor herself.  WE SOLD OUT  a three-night run, followed by "Promises, Promises," "The Fantasticks," "Man of La Mancha," "Our Town," and many other shows, all directed by Skip. Every show featured respected local actors and musicians, always including Bruce. I conducted, did  musical arranging, played piano and beat the drum at the Gazette to encourage support. IN 1979 , I approached two of the smartest people I knew -- Hewes Agnes and Ray Hart -- to lead a  fundraising charge. Our now non-profit Fox organization had an abundance of artistic acumen but needed business direction to raise $5.6 to renovate the building. (That was less than half the cost of this latest renovation but a daunting sum 42 years ago with the economy in a serious slump.) Proud 80-year history  Christene "Cookie" Meyers was honored by Dana Gioia and the National Endowment for the Arts for her tireless efforts to "save the Fox." (Gioia was NEA chairman.) Hewes and Ray came aboard, recruited Larry Martin and other bright minds, and formed the Fox Corporation, later naming it after Alberta Bair. That same summer, Bruce and I took out a second mortgage on our home, via friend Bob Waller, CEO of then Midland Bank. Jazz great Dave Brubeck played the Fox Theater helping turn the fundraising corner in 1979 . We needed $25,000 to secure Dave Brubeck and The American Conservatory Theatre of San Francisco. It was a gamble, but Bob believed in our cause. On four warm days, summer of 1979, we sold out three ACT performances and Brubeck’s packed one-night run. THE ACT WON  a Tony that fall for best regional theater and its director William Ball thanked Billings, Montana, and the Fox, for the warm hospitality. Brubeck was still in his prime, soon to be awarded a Kennedy Center honor. When I interviewed him during intermission in the seedy Fox dressing room I wore two hats: concert reviewer and president of Save the Fox. I asked him to plug the campaign and when he came back on stage, he gave a rousing plea, "You must save this theater," which was greeted with thunderous applause, cheers, whistles. The next week Skip and I opened the mail to several thousand dollars in donations. (Badly needed because our AC had just failed and in winter, we wore our coats for lobby meetings because we couldn't afford the heat bill.) LUNDBY CONTINUED  living on a shoestring inside the theater, a modern day phantom of the opera. The TV dinners he warmed on the stage footlights provided scant nourishment. He was often cold despite sheltering in the projection booth --  warmest corner of the drafty1931 building. He wore layers to bed. But he was beaming and I was one proud Cookie in 1987 at the first gala reopening. Later, Dana Gioia visited as head of the National Endowment for the Arts, joining opera friend Doug Nagel and a packed house in honoring me. I praised Skip's efforts to the sell-out crowd and treasure that evening while I await this latest party. So come celebrate with me. Long live the arts. Long live the ABT. Long live “the Fox." Photographer Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers cap an autumn drive through lovely Yellowstone Park. UP NEXT :  Yellowstone National Park in autumn. Right now is our favorite time to visit the nation's first national park.  The air is crisp and clean, the sun shines brightly but is not too warm, and critters are on the move. Consider driving through at least part of this national treasure. And if you're too far away, pull up a seat as a time-honored armchair traveler.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

A group of elk saunters across the highway leading to Mammoth Hot Springs NATURE'S WONDERS ABOUND ON A CRISP AUTUMN DRIVE THROUGH NATION'S OLDEST NATIONAL PARK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A horseback ride in the crisp autumn air hits the spot. WE ARE LUCKY to live within a few hours of one of our nation's most beautiful places. An annual autumn trip through Yellowstone National Park is a tradition we honor and enjoy. On this year's trek, we took along a California friend.  Phyllis had never visited Yellowstone and although we didn't have time to give her a complete "immersion," we shared a few favorite nooks and crannies of this  magnificent wilderness recreation area.   Yellowstone in winter Yellowstone is set atop a still active volcanic hot spot. Bruce Keller and Phyllis Broker admire the scenery from a spot framing the Lower Falls, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The smells of sulfur and steam from the hot pots and geysers can be appreciated without leaving the car. But we always make a pilgrimage on foot to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, as viewed from the Lower Falls. That was a big hit with Phyllis, who lived much of her life in New England where nature offers hills, not craggy canyons and towering mountains and rivers. PHYLLIS WAS  amazed and pleased that with limited time and a long driving day, we could view bison and elk from the road.  Twice, in fact, they pranced across the highway, stopping traffic. The 3,500 square-mile wonder is mostly in Wyoming, but we Montanans claim Yellowstone, too, since three of the five entrances are in our state. Bison and steaming geysers catch the eye. The park also spreads into Idaho, near West Yellowstone. "Our park" features dramatic canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers, including its most famous, Old Faithful. It's also home to hundreds of animal species, including the ones we saw last week. We've found through the years that our autumn treks are perfectly timed. With thinning crowds and colorful foliage, fall is a spectacular time to visit Yellowstone.  Many of the park’s iconic animals tend to be more visible in the autumn, when cooler temperatures prompt them to move about more. DAWN AND DUSK  are the best times for spotting wildlife, but with autumn days growing shorter one doesn't need to get up as early, or stay out as late to take advantage of these prime times. We witnessed several careless activities with wildlife: one family attempting to photograph a child in the same frame as a bison. Bad idea. Rangers advise maintaining a distance of at least 100 yards from bears and wolves and at least 25 yards from all other wildlife. Remember, too, that they are on the move to lower elevations as winter draws nearer. Bears are more elusive, but   can be seen. This grizzly bear was not far from the East Entrance. IF YOU'RE looking for lodging, know that guest facilities and services gradually start to close in the fall. Prices also drop a bit in autumn, and there are appealing fall lodging packages. Check the park’s website for the fall closing schedule, weather and road updates.  IF YOU GO : Individuals hiking, biking, skiing etc. pay $20 per person; an annual pass, $70; motorcycles or snowmobiles pay $30 and private vehicles are $35. A lifetime senior pass to the parks is $80. www.yellowstonenationalpark.com   American Cruise Lines offers a variety of domestic cruises across the U.S., from the Columbia River to New England. Here, the fleet's sleek new riverboats cruise close to shore. UP NEXT:   Why not cruise close to home, in the U.S.A while we're waiting out the pandemic? American Cruise Lines offers enlightening, safe options to foreign travel. We recently spent a week in the Pacific Northwest aboard American Pride, one of a fleet of American's unique boats.  Attentive service, luxurious large staterooms, small passenger loads, top hygiene and Covid enforcements provide a comfortable, pampering "domestic way" to travel, enjoying our vast and varied land. In a three-part series on domestic cruising, we explore the Lewis and Clark trail on the Columbia and Snake rivers, offer options for traversing the Mississippi, Great Lakes, New England and contemplate the Sacajawea legacy, including a lovely Montana inn in Three Forks, named after her. All aboard American Cruise Lines' vessels. Remember to explore, learn, live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, nature, family, travel and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are hunkered down, taking small domestic trips,  keeping their passports at the ready as hope for international travel and a vaccine becomes a reality. END THE YEAR IN STYLE, KINDNESS; CELEBRATE LIFE, LOOK FORWARD TO  HOPE Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers enjoy a holiday snuggle just the two, wishing they were with family. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  — Oh, there's no place like home for the holidays For no matter how far away you roam When you long for the sunshine of a friendly gaze For the holidays, you can't beat home, sweet home --Allen and Stillman from a 1954 hit tune   'THERE'S NO place like home for the holidays,” as the classic tune says. And there's no year that compares to the amount of time we spent at home in 2020. Who knew, a year ago, that we'd be isolating, distancing, quarantining this year? That we'd be spending days on end in the confines of our homes. We've spent months in sweat pants, house coats and gym clothes, or as one friend put it, "Our most crucial fashion decision was when to change from our nighttime pajamas to our daytime pajamas."  AFTER MONTHS  of isolation, economic anxiety, and pandemic fatigue, there is good news, though. The vaccines we've awaited are testing now both abroad and at home; we should all be vaccinated by spring, and ready to hit the travel decks again. With some modifications, we can still have a happy holiday. We can even venture Gran Canaria, Cookie and Keller enjoy truchas, coffee, royal headware. to select,  hygienically proper hotels, with care and caution. In our case, here in San Diego, we're able to stay in hotels in our own state. Out-of-state travelers will be welcome once the latest three-week ban lifts, which is Dec. 28.  A FUN pastime for us this year has been to sort through photos of Christmases spent in other lands. We've ushered in the Yule in San Juan, with giant sculptures of the wise men and "Feliz Navidad" banners hung throughout the Old Town. We've eaten splendid holiday fare in restaurants and private homes. One of our favorite culinary memories is of sweet potato turnovers, or truchas de navidad. It's the Canany Islands' answer to beignets. Try making them. Fairly easy and we're sharing our favorite recipe.    Our favorite trunchas recipe A San Juan street scene celebrates the holiday. Remember how short our time on earth is.  Call a loved one you haven't spoken to recently. Do something nice for a stranger. OUR BELOVED "Jeopardy" host, Alex Trebek, passed away in early November.  His last taped show airs Jan. 8 and his farewell to a faithful audience is rumored to be a touching one. Put that on the docket to watch. Meanwhile, some of his best shows are airing, and Ken Jennings is in the wings to host during transition. Alex Trebek's final show will air early January, a swansong. We recommend dressing for a TV movie, or a celebratory dinner.  We're doing it, just the two of us! NOW, WE 'VE all spent nearly 10 months isolating, masking, distancing, playing it safe. So the world is  faced with a holiday without the usual family and friend parties, celebrations, dances and general merry making. Try to be introspective. Be kind, imagine a better world.   So indeed there might be no place like home for the holidays, but we're not all able to be home. I like to "click my heels" and imagine I'm in Kansas -- or back in Montana. After all this angst, fear, exhaustion, fatigue and separation, we'll never view our "old life" the same. If we have hope in our hearts, and a generous spirit, we can make the most of a rotten year -- and embrace the future with renewed appreciation of family, friends, our lucky lives! Thermal pools of Yellowstone beckon for a fresh start in 2021.     UP NEXT: Yellowstone in winter for the New Year! Do something fun, do something outdoors, keep the faith that we'll be beyond this COVID scourge soon. We bring you an idea for an amazing nature connected trip in the New Year. How about a trip to our nation's first national park, Yellowstone! Meanwhile, explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel approach to nature, the arts, travel, family and more at: www.whereiscookie.com

The new, streamlined ships of American Cruise Lines are luxurious and beautifully designed to  accommodate small passenger loads, allowing for navigation into small ports and harbors. Here, American Melody explores ten states on a leisurely Mississippi River trip -- New Orleans to St. Paul. DELIGHTFUL DIVERSIONS AWAIT ON THE WATER, FROM NEW ENGLAND TO PACIFIC NORTHWEST, MISSISSIPPI AND MORE New ACL ships, like American Melody, below right, offer state-of-the-art design, small-ship comfort with the feel of a contemporary ocean-going luxury vessel.  Editor's Note: Today we begin a three-part series on rivers and exploration. First, we focus on myriad appealing itineraries aboard the enticing modern riverboats of American Cruise Lines. Then we board a charming ACL vessel, American Pride, to follow the Lewis and Clark trail, visiting intriguing small towns and ports along the Columbia and Snake rivers. Finally, we pay tribute to Sacajawea, the remarkable native American guide who played a major role in the legendary1805 expedition to open the West. The museums, parks, inns and historic buildings she inspired live on. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRCE KELLER and courtesy American Cruise Lines NOW MORE  than ever, it's wise to play it safe and travel close to home. If you're travel junkies, like the two of us are, you know how essential it is to have a ticket in the drawer. For us, cruising means adventure, exploration, the thrill of the new. It's mental health on the water with side-trips to fascinating ports and villages to visit museums, concert halls, parks and restaurants. It's a marvelous opportunity to see how other folks live, to discover and share their cultural riches. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers about to board ACL's American Pride for a week on the trail of Lewis and Clark. UNTIL WE  get a handle on the pandemic, exotic foreign travel is not in the cards for us. So we're exploring fascinating corners of our own country. We were recently wooed to travel close-to-home, after studying American Cruise Lines attractive vessels and a string of engaging itineraries exploring home turf in the U.S.A.  Eye-catching scenery enticed us to our stateroom balcony for the view of Washington's Ice Harbor Dam on Snake River. American Cruise Lines' ships offer "up close" viewing.  Aboard American Pride, with only 190 passengers, we quickly met fellow cruisers. While tracing the Lewis and Clark trail on the Columbia and Snake rivers, we dined and toured with new, curious friends from Texas, Colorado, Arkansas, Louisiana and New Jersey.  Some were back for their 8th and 9th ACL cruise, proud of their Eagle Society membership, which honors return cruisers with special parties, discounts and other courtesies. ACL'S NEW , sleek riverboats offer the amenities, glamour and prestige of the best of larger cruise ships. Its vessels create  inviting close-to-home options for cruise lovers who don't prefer large-ship cruising. Design is carefully thought out, offering close-up looks at ever-changing landscape -- locks and dams on our recent trip where bird's eye views abound. Some of the line's newer ships offer multi-story atriums, popular in ocean-going vessels for their panoramic views. The line's stately paddle heelers offer distinctive charms of their own: whimsical artwork, cozy nooks to read or enjoy a beverage, and turn-of-century velvet and wood accoutrements. A multi-million dollar update is planned for these much loved slightly older vessels, honoring ACL's reputation for premium, contemporary comfort. Private balconies are an ACL trademark; we enjoyed ours all day and evening. American Melody's roomy, comfy staterooms offer a large balcony for viewing passing wonders . A school teacher in period dress    gives insight into the trail-blazing journey of Lewis and Clark. THE NEWER ships -- the first modern riverboats in the U.S. --  are attractive for their modern design, appealing to comfort seekers with spacious bathrooms and staterooms the size of small apartments.  In ships such as the new American Melody and American Jazz. cruisers enjoy luxury on the Mississippi River.  One couple we met followed the call of Mark Twain and riverboat travel of yore, raving about their "complete Mississippi" three-week cruise. It transited 10 states from New Orleans to St. Paul and they said they "lived on our balcony."  Intriguing. IF YOU WANDER the ship, you'll find the all-American crew to be helpful, amiable,  and well informed about ports, shipboard activities and schedules. Workers are also proud that their ships are "made in the U.S.A."  WE APPRECIATED the learning opportunities during our Lewis and Clark week as we traversed territory explored by these two ground-breaking explorers in the early 1800s. While immersing ourselves in their challenges -- bitter winter wind and cold, relentless rain, struggles to scale mountain passes, language barriers and back-breaking building of forts and canoes -- we returned to our comfy ship.  Within walking distance, we enjoyed the journey's modern-day museums, galleries, shops and   Oregon's fine Maryhill Museum offers pleasures, treasures in an ACL side trip from The Dalles . homes, a pleasant contrast with the travails and hardships of the long-ago journey.   ACL specializes in historic destinations, carefully choosing guides, on-board lecturers and historians to enhance the journey. In our voyage's delightful river towns, we observed the lifestyle of today's contemporary American westerners, a bonus.  Part of the thrill of the small boats is watching the ship rise in the canal locks from a bird's eye perch on the open deck. ACL chefs design meals to enhance   ports and cities visited, here a po boy. THE NEW ships also cater to the foodie, with pretty meals served in a formal dining room or a casual "Back Porch Cafe," option, proving hugely popular. Lovely lounges entice cocktail gatherings or morning coffee, all with close-up views of passing scenery. A yoga studio and fitness center help keep the figure trim for one shouldn't pass on the meals. ACL chefs design menus inspired by destinations, so leaving New Orleans, you might choose jambalaya, bananas foster or a po boy sandwich. We enjoyed fresh seafood on our near-Pacific sojourn. The food is tops, presentation artful and service refined. A VARIETY OF  choices await both veteran and novice cruiser aboard ACL. We shared tables with many repeat ACL customers, veteran cruisers devoted to the "close up" views of the land ACL's fleet offers.  We are considering Alaska, Puget Sound, New England, the Ohio River and an alluring "Historic south, golden isles" trip from Charleston to Savannah and on to Amelia Island. A week-long Mississippi trip attracts us, too. An east coast inland passage trip also appeals, with kayaking, dolphins, carriage rides and Fort Sumter history.  Nashville's charms unfold aboard American Jazz, with large staterooms and small passenger loads. ONE ACL CRUISE we've not yet taken -- and eagerly await -- is a music-themed cruise from Nashville to Memphis. This trip appeals to us because with 127 cruises under our life jackets, we're always looking for something new.  This sounds terrific, with its leisurely trek up the Mississippi, Cumberland and Ohio rivers, into colorful small villages and middle-sized towns. Throw in a Grand Ole Opry visit in Nasvhille and a plate of Memphis barbecue, with nightly performances of jazz and blues. What could be better for a pair of cruisers, foodies and musicians? For more on ACL's three dozen itineraries in 30 states, call 1 800 814-6880 or go to ACL's website:   americancruiselines.com   American Cruise Lines specializes in historic ports and lively learning.  UP NEXT:   We continue our "close to home" cruise series with a look at towns along the rivers explored by Lewis and Clark.  Side trips from American Cruise Lines' American Pride give insight into the pair's remarkable journey west from St. Louis. With state-of-the art decor and all the comforts of large-ship cruising, ACL visits ports of call not accessible by ship, except on small vessels.  Our week-long Columbia and Snake Rivers cruise sheds new light on the daring and bravery of Lewis and Clark. We take time to enjoy shipboard amenities, too, with gourmet meals, music of the period and lively lectures on the two intrepid explorers and a wise and talented woman who played a key role in the journey.  Sacajawea was important to the success of the mission, the dream of President Thomas Jefferson.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for fresh insights into travel, nature, the arts, family and more. Please share the links: www.whereiscookie.com Photo left: Sacajawea State Park and Interpretive Center near Pasco, Washington, includes a wonderful small museum, detailing the contributions of the remarkable guide, interpreter and healer.

The Sacajawea Inn in Three Forks, Montana, honors one of the most revered women in the history of the United States. Whether spelled with a "j" or a "g," dozens of parks, museums, halls and mountains are named after the famous guide, interpreter and friend of Lewis and Clark. The structures of Fort Clatsop were simple. Two large buildings were surrounded by large walls. Most of the men lived in one structure, while Lewis, Clark,  Sacagawea, her husband Toussaint Charbonneau, and their son, Jean Baptiste, stayed in the other. INDIAN WOMAN'S  TALENTS, SKILLS  SAVED THE FAMOUS JOURNEY FROM DISASTER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE DARING AND bravery of the Lewis and Clark Expedition live on in the West, 216 years after the Corps of Discovery explored the rugged terrain between St. Louis and the Pacific Ocean. While these two smart and daring men deserve accolades -- along with President Jefferson who engineered the trip -- the true hero of the long and arduous journey was the multi-lingual Shoshone woman. For it was she who  helped chart the trail, making invaluable inroads with native people encountered along the way. The lobby of the Sacajawea Hotel (spelled with a "j") in Three Forks offers western hospitality in understated elegance. SACAGAWEA -- a member of the Lemhi Shoshone tribe --was only 16 when drafted into service.  She proved herself an able guide, interpreter, peace maker and medicine woman, gathering important documents, tools, and medicines, while taking care of an infant son. During negotiations with the Shoshones for horses, she was reunited with her brother. WERE IT NOT for her finesse, quick thinking and multiple talents in  wilderness survival, historians believe the expedition might have failed.  Surely, she kept it from disaster, advising Lewis and Clark on the route, introducing the explorers to native people, suggesting the best places to camp. Her knowledge helped the expedition navigate mountain passes in the vast Louisiana Territory. Her prowess as a guide and interpreter complimented her diplomacy in encountering people along the way.  Her contributions altered the course of history in this daring search for a route over the Rockies to the Pacific Ocean. The Sacajawea Interpretive Center tells the story of the Corps of Discovery and stresses the important role that Sacajawea played. TO RECOGNIZE her importance, dozens of parks, museums, mountains and even a posh Montana inn are named after the skillful and multi-talented woman.  In Montana, the historic Sacajawea Hotel (spelled with a "j" not a "g") offers history and old-fashioned charm accented by contemporary amenities, fine dining and luxurious accommodations. Front desk clerk and amiable concierge Alex Kyser keeps everything running smoothly at the Sacajawea Hotel . We met guests from Vermont, Florida, Arizona and Italy during our two-day visit capping an  American Cruise Lines journey on the Lewis and Clark trail.   WE SIPPED  welcome champagne in the elegant lobby, which offers understated western ambiance. An attentive concierge, Alex, manned  the front desk, and gave us the menu to contemplate our dinner choices at the excellent restaurant. For more than a century, the Three Forks, Montana, inn has welcomed travelers from around the globe. The hotel is a major downtown attraction. Tourists use it as a base to explore nearby Lewis and Clark Caverns and the "three forks" of the rivers.  Here the Jefferson, Gallatin and Madison rivers join to form the great Missouri. The skills and diplomacy of Sacagawea likely saved the expedition from disaster.  Our 10-day Lewis and Clark odyssey ended at "the Sac," as it is affectionately known. The imposing hotel attracts history aficionados, outdoorsmen and travelers accustomed to comfort and pampering, including morning coffee and homemade banana bread.    A young "Pomp" carried by his now famous mother . HOW TO PRONOUNCE and spell that famous name? Is it Sacajawea or Sacagawea? The latter is the most widely used spelling, pronounced with a hard "g" sound. Most of us grew up spelling and pronouncing it with a soft "g" or "j" sound. Both spellings and pronunciations are recognized. Lewis and Clark's  journals mention Sacagawea by name seventeen times but spelled in eight different ways.   SACAJAWEA HISTORICAL  State Park and the Pasco, Washington, ("j" spelling here) offers a wonderful interpretive center  honoring the woman whose quiet, peaceful ways helped establish the explorers as friends, not foes coming to conquer.   Her presence as a woman helped dispel notions to the Native tribes that the company intended to capture or harm, and confirmed the peacefulness of their mission. Her young son, Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau, became America's youngest explorer. "Pomp" was cared for and educated by Clark after his mother's untimely death following the birth of her daughter.  She was only 25.  MORE INFO : www.sacajaweahotel.com ; www.americancruiselines.com ; www.sacajaweacenter.org     Trapeze artistry is at its finest in the Santos Family, a high- flying quartet of gifted women who thrill the audience. UP NEXT:  Welcome to the Big Top as we visit the Zoppe Italian Family Circus, on tour in the United States and in residence now at Redwood City, California.  Clowns, contortionists, acrobats, dancing dogs and more await sell-out audiences in a spectacular, old-fashioned circus show.   Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at travel, the arts, cruising, families, nature, pets and life on the road. We appreciate sharing the links and telling friends and like-minded people about www.whereiscookie.com

Acrobats and trapeze artists exhibit their prowess and daring in a jaw-dropping act. Zoppe Italian Family Circus is on tour in California, then on to Arizona and beyond. LIVELY, FUN FAMILY SHOWHARKENS BACK TO THE DAYSOF THE TOURING CIRCUS OF YORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Enjoying the circus pre-show, from left: Bruce Keller  ("Uncle KK,") James Ganner, Christene Meyers ("Auntie Cookie") and Penelope Ganner.  THE ZOPPE FAMILY'S touring circus is a delightful throw-back to the circuses of childhood. The elements of magic and surprise are time honored themes as a global assemblage of performers entertains and delights.   One could call it a true "dog and pony show" for horses and pups are indeed  part of the act, along with mimes, acrobats, trapeze artists, sword balancers and a charming clown -- plus more -- much more. The remarkably old fashioned yet polished and contemporary Zoppe Circus dates back 179 years to a collaboration of French, Hungarian and Italian performers who launched the production.  Legend says a young couple -- both performers -- fell in love and launched the now famous touring troupe. The talented ringmaster opens the show, with his faithful sidekick, clown Nino, behind him and the full house.   The company takes in the applause of a standing ovation, with baby Ilario Fabrizio Luigino Zoppe, the ensemble's newest member, sixth generation. THE PRODUCTION  honors  centuries old circus traditions: thrills, chills, charm, humor, surprise and -- always -- magic. We treated our great-niece and nephew, Penelope and James Ganner, to the Big Top in Redwood City during opening weekend of the Zoppe run. Jugglers, musicians, jesters, horses and multiple generations of the cheerful troupe greeted us as we strolled toward the tent for the 6 p.m. Sunday show, the last of three performances that day. (The company takes only Monday and Tuesday off, and bunks behind the circus in a compound of trailers.)  THE CIRCUS theme changes yearly and the 2021 theme is "La Vita Nuova, the New Life." Ringmaster and mime Mace Perlman explained  that coming back from the pandemic has special meaning to the performers. "As we create a new life ahead, we are reminded to take things lightly,  to appreciate as much as we can." How true, we thought, as we sat with our beloved little ones, surrounded by other families and friends. Contortion acts are part of the show, with body-bending moves.   The Zoppé family is constantly importing new people -- and new life. Young performers learn the ropes early. Even the company's newest member was on stage. Ilario Fabrizio Luigino Zoppé --  born in April in Guanajuato, Mexico -- and has been part of the acts since his four-month birthday. Actor and ringmaster Mace Perlman, a classically trained mime, is a circus veteran, who studied and performed under Marcel Marceau in Paris, and later under Giorgio Strehler at his Piccolo Teatro in Milan. Ringmaster Mace Perlman, a classically- trained mime, studied with famed mime Marcel  Marceau in Paris. He is also a fine actor.  Giovanni Zoppé, who plays Nino the Clown, is a 6th generation performer, son of Alberto Zoppe, who performed into his 80s and is much revered. FORMER OLYMPIC   Diving Team  members from the Russian State Circus, are among the many pros in the company. Belarusian brothers Mikhail and Alexei Drozdov joined Russian born Illya Alikov  for a thrilling Russian bar act. It had me gripping my nephew's arm in fear of a fall.  THEN MORE thrills with fifth-generation circus artist, Mexican born German Rodogell in a daring sword balancing act. More gripping of my nephew's arm as Wisconsin-born Disa Carneol took fearlessly to a swinging trapeze.  The talented aerialist has performed worldwide -- as have most of the seasoned troupe -- thrilling audiences from Shanghai to San Francisco and Sao Paulo. Poodles are part of the fun, and some are rescue dogs.  Clown Nino was a huge audience hit, working the entire house with juggling, physical humor and clever commentary to the ringmaster's feigned impatience. Actor Giovanni Zoppe is a non-stop delight with an expressive face made for clowning! Smiling and in complete control, a Zoppe rider thrills the crowd with her expert talents and beautiful maneuvering . WE AND OUR kids are animal lovers, and Penelope is a talented rider, so the dog and horse acts thrilled us all. Doggies jumped through hoops, danced and formed an endearing conga line then an expert rider managed two spirited horses with grace and control. She even rode atop a pair of horses -- one leg on each -- and rode backwards and upside down without incident. This is a dog and pony show of exemplary quality and good, old-fashioned entertainment value. Tickets are reasonably priced and many kinds of refreshments are available, plus an opportunity to be photographed with the horses.  WHAT WE LOVED most about the circus was seeing it with family, remembering the circus shows we older folks enjoyed as kids. Hats off and paws and hoofs up, all around! IF YOU GO:   Zoppe is in Redwood City through Nov. 21.  Tickets may be purchased at the box office or on  redwoodcity.org/residents/redwood-city-events/zoppe-italian-family-circus If you miss the Bay Area performance run, the Zoppe company is headed for Arizona with stops in Chandler, Dec. 9-19, and Tempe, Dec. 23-Jan. 3 of 2022. Check out zoppe.net/schedule-tickets/ "The Last Ship" at the Ahmanson Theater in Los Angeles was the last show Cookie and Keller saw before "pandemic  purgatory." After months without theater, it's back now with a full season at many Los Angeles and San Diego venues . UP NEXT: After nearly 20 months without our usual full docket of live theater offerings, we are thrilled to have a series of  well received productions on line. It's wonderful to be part of the audience once again.  Southern California is "back on the boards" with a full slate of offerings now through the winter months and into next summer. It's a wondrous, thrilling time for theater junkies including the whereiscookie staff. We take a look at what's on stage from San Diego to Palm Springs, Carlsbad, Los Angeles and more, remembering to explore, learn and live.  And do catch us each week for a fresh spin on theater and the arts, travel, family, nature, health and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The eerie and colorful formations of the Lewis and Clark Caverns await inspection. CLIMB INTO THE MYSTERIOUS WORLD OF LIMESTONE CAVERNS That's Cookie (with Nicky)peering through the Caverns entry billboard. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie bundles up for a moist walk through   Lewis and Clark Caverns near Whitehall, Mt. STEP INTO a magical world inside a series of extraordinary caves. But, please, watch your head. And bring a sweater. You'll be bending and ducking -- and you might be chilly.  Even in summer, the Lewis and Clark Caverns are 48 degrees Fahrenheit. The breathtaking natural wonder is near Three Forks, Montana, a series of moist caves -- formed long ago by groundwater in beds of limestone. THE CAVES date to the Mississippian age -- from a sea present in the area around an astonishing 325 to 365 million years ago. Fast forward past this mind-boggling data, through years of shifting and seismic change, to the late 19th Century. Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park receives visitors from all over the world, who usually take in Yellowstone National Park as well as other northern Rockies sights. Charles Brooke and Mexican John, both from Whitehall, discovered the cave entrance in 1882. They had heard of the great caves from local Indian legend and set out to look for them. They did not tell many people about their find, so it is not an "official" discovery. Ten years later, two hunters  noticed a plume of steam coming out of the cave.  They were Tom Williams and Burt Pannell, who are credited with discovering the wonder in the relatively recent year of 1892. Although famed explorers Lewis and Clark had been very near in both 1805 and 1806, they did not discover the mysterious, magical caverns, within a couple hours' horseback ride from their encampments.  Lively commentary from well informed guides makes the cavern journey one of learning as well as fun. But because they were so near -- along nearby Antelope Creek, a Jefferson River tributary -- the accomplishments of their remarkable journey impressed President Theodore Roosevelt and he named them in their honor. He noted that their journey took them within a few miles of the historic place east of Whitehall, Montana. THE EXPLORERS would probably be happy to know that the  caverns they came so near became Montana's first state park.  Montanans have been exploring the caves for over 100 years, proud to claim the largest known limestone cavern systems in the northwest and one of the few in the U.S.   WE   BASED  our expedition at the nearby Sacajawea Hotel in Three Forks, knowing that the spectacular geological stop would tie in with our visit to Yellowstone National Park.  We enjoyed the ride on US 287 through the backroads of the Madison Valley.  THEN JACKETS over our arms, we journeyed into the impressive geological features: stalactites, stalagmites, helictites and columns, some named for people and characters. The caverns are fascinating and elaborate, with a guided tour offered several times a day. Sign up is required. While the naming of Montana's  Lewis and Clark Caverns was inspired by the journey of the famous explorers, one feels like a modern day explorer entering the dark and moist caves. Viewing the caverns is a guided, two-mile breezy hike in an environment of natural underground air-conditioning.  Tours are given daily throughout the summer. You may also camp, hike and bike on 10 miles of trails. You'll register through the park system which also boasts interpretive displays, two visitor centers, gift shop, and snack and beverage options.  OUR WELL informed ranger took us on an interesting tour of the caverns, then we explored more of the additional 3,000 acres of this almost mile-high Jefferson County attraction.  If you are afraid of enclosed places, sometimes slippery footing, or descending below the earth, this might not be the place for you. And if you're at all claustrophobic, you may want to pass on this outing and stick to the visitor centers or a pleasant hike above ground.   Special holiday tours by candlelight offer a moody, beautifully lit way to enjoy the caverns in December . FRIENDS WHO  were reluctant to enter anything dark or "closed off," declined to take the tour with us.  But we felt comfortable entering the caves, feeling safe by staying close to the guide. Gripping my husband's belt with my hand, I didn't trip on the  little dips and bends in the walkway. But we'd practiced for this -- in caverns in Malta, New Zealand, Vietnam, Scotland and other places.  "Cool caves," we call them.       SEASON AND HOURS. The park is open all year, except for a couple days. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec. 25 and Jan. 1. Special Holiday Candlelight Tours of Lewis and Clark Caverns will be offered Dec. 17, 18, and 19 and Dec. 21, 22 and 23.   mt.gov/stateparks/lewis-and-clark-caverns/ UP NEXT:   Elvis Presley's legacy lives on in a one-woman presentation by Priscilla Presley, who was married to the legendary singer from 1967 to 1973. She appears this week in Palm Springs. Mention the name and people are still fascinated by the legendary singer Elvis Presley. Oscar's, a lively Palm Springs cabaret, and its inventive producer/owner Dan Gore are celebrating his life in its continuing "Intimate Evening" series. Presley's only wife, actress Priscilla Presley, appears Nov. 11, to talk about her life with the singer, whom she married in May of 1967. Tickets are still available, at various levels, including a "meet and greet" with Ms. Presley, an actress and entrepreneur who made Graceland famous.  Then we spotlight the world's only LGBTQ mariachi band, touring from its Los Angeles base. We talk with the players, whom we enjoyed at a sell-out Oscar's performance. Mariachi Acoiris de Los Angeles is a ground-breaking ensemble with ambitious goals and a brave history. It is critically acclaimed for its authentic mariachi sound and precise musical renditions. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly: www.whereiscookie.com

The Palm Springs home of Elvis and Priscilla Presley is a Celebrity Tours stop. Priscilla Presley   talks about the couple's time in the famous home when she presents a one-woman show and chats about her life with "The King" tonight at Oscar's, Palm Springs.  The home is featured on tours, too.   'The King' lives on in legend as Priscilla Presley shares their life stories in the couple's honeymoon town where tourists from around the world visit their "honeymoon home." ELVIS PRESLEY'S ONLY WIFE PRESENTS INTIMATE MEMOIR OF HER LIFE WITH 'THE KING' STORY by CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS by BRUCE KELLER and courtesy of Graceland, the Elvis Presley Estate THE MYSTIQUE  of Elvis Presley continues to inspire awe, curiosity and new generations of fans years after his 1977 death. Admirers of all ages have an opportunity to find out more about him in an evening with his only wife, Priscilla Presley, now 76 and touring an engaging show with images and commentary. The show, said Presley, "gives me an opportunity to connect with my fans, to celebrate Elvis, and for people to maybe learn something they didn't know about Elvis." Oscar's talented Dan Gore has a long love of Hollywood lore, and says the Palm Springs mystique is alive and well. OSCAR'S, A LIVELY cabaret in the center of Palm Springs, California, is next on Presley's tour with a Nov. 11, show.  "I'm excited to be there," she says, about the inventive cabaret, known for its tea dances, lively shows and LGBTQ-friendly environment. Palm Springs has a long connection to Hollywood, from the days when studios demanded their stars be able to return quickly to Los Angeles for editing, rehearsals, photo shoots. Thus Palm Springs became a popular close-by get-away -- a calm, rejuvenating, relaxing, sunny alternative to the smog and bustle of Los Angeles.  "The mystique continues," says Dan Gore, owner of Oscar's. GORE HAS garnered international attention for Oscar's inventive programming, with a focus on gay and trans entertainment. A creative menu and attentive service kick things up a notch, all thanks to Gore's show-biz savvy.  He is a veteran Hollywood producer, whose cabaret shows, dances and weekend brunches are a hit with locals and tourists alike. Elvis and Priscilla Presley admire their infant daughter, the couple's only child, born  in 1968. PRISCILLA'S LIFE with Elvis began Sept. 13, 1959, during Presley's much publicized Army career. The two met at a party at his home in Bad Nauheim, Germany. Hers was a military family and she was only 14 years old -- ten years younger than 24-year old Elvis. They kept in touch and Priscilla Beaulieu married Elvis Presley eight years later when nearing her 22nd birthday. Elvis and Priscilla had a 10-year age difference.   Her presentation, "Elvis and Me:  An Intimate Evening With Priscilla Presley," includes anecdotes about their courtship, including her dream of living on a horse ranch. But although smitten, she says, "I hadn't considered marrying one of the world's most famous rock stars." She'll tell the Oscar's crowd that she knew she was in love when "the king" waved goodbye to her as he left his station in Germany to return to the states. Graceland has become a successful enterprise with Priscilla Presley's guidance and business sense. Below, she's with Leslie Nielsen in "The Naked Gun."  "He told me he'd be looking for me," Presley remembers. Her presentation includes home movies and photographs of their life together, plus a question and answer period. Elvis Presley's life with Priscilla is on tap at Oscar's Thursday. "HE ALSO told me, 'I don't want any sad faces. I want a smile.' Just seeing him walk up the stairs, I realized my life would be empty without him." Elvis and Priscilla were married for five years before they separated in 1972 and divorced the following year. He passed away five years later, in August of 1977. His possessive nature and her youth may have played into their  separation, but they remained friends and she has developed her own fan base. "I miss him very much, as many people do," said Presley, who crafted a successful life on film and TV as well as in the corporate world.  She is known for her business acumen and loyalty to her fans, whom she meets for presentations, tours and celebrations at Graceland.  HER INVENTIVE  spirit and enduring affection for Elvis and his legacy have helped perpetuate the late star’s music sales and have made Graceland a world renowned mansion-turned-museum. Graceland, the Elvis’ estate is still profitable four-plus decades after his death and Elvis is among the top highest-earning dead celebrities, along with Michael Jackson, Prince, Bing Crosby, Dr. Seuss and Arnold Palmer. Through Priscilla's shrewd business sense, his estate made more money this year than the singer had the year he died. And she has crafted a successful acting career, in "Dallas," "The Naked Gun" and many other shows. More info about the Palm Springs Presley show and ticket options including a dinner-show package  and a meet-greet with Ms. Presley:  oscarspalmsprings.com ; priscillapresley.com ; Palm Springs Celebrity Tours: comfy fan, hotel pick-up, three hours, 50 celebrity homes, including Elvis & Priscilla's honeymoon home, 760 895-8005.    UP NEXT:  The energy of Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles prompted applause and standing ovations at a recent sell-out concert at Oscar's in Palm Springs. The world's only LGBTQ mariachi band is touring its sell-out show. We were delighted to be in the audience at Oscar's, Palm Springs for Mariachi Acoiris de Los Angeles. We take you inside this ground-breaking group, with a look at its ambitious goals and brave history, noting the precision of the players, their acclaimed, authentic sound and passion for acceptance. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on the arts, nature, travel, family and changing times: www.whereiscookie.com

Founder and band leader of Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles, Carlos Samaniego, is a talented, classically trained musician who formed the world's first LGBTQ mariachi band.  AMBASSADORS FOR ACCEPTANCE: WORLD CLASS GAY, TRANS ARTISTS ENTERTAIN AT OSCAR'S PALM SPRINGS    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Natalia Marie Melendez is a first-rate mariachi musician, the world's first trans woman player in the genre. IMAGINE A GIFTED  young violinist -- gay, Hispanic, bullied as a kid.  Picture this talented guy dreaming of forming his own band as he experiences discrimination, derision and bullying. Then imagine the courage it took to organize such a group, an unorthodox ensemble of  top quality musicians.  The dream is a reality now, as Mariachi Arcoiris is gaining an international reputation, emerging brilliantly and distinctly apart from and beyond the macho world of Mexican folk music. THIS IS  no movie script or fairytale.  It's the true, real-life story of  mariachi musician, Carlos Samaniego. He directs this unique ensemble, which boasts an all-LGBTQ lineup -- including the world's first trans woman mariachi player.  The group is getting raves around the country with Samaniego also singing and playing lead violin as the ensemble's concert master. Individuality and diversity are the trademarks of the colorful ensemble and its players. Arcoiris, which means rainbow in Spanish, embodies Samaniego's love for the beloved musical genre held in reverence in Hispanic culture. Says Samaniego, "It is a beloved genre in our culture -- distinct, powerful, dramatic -- a staple at Mexican events and celebrations." HAVING HEARD my share of mediocre mariachi in hotels and folk festivals in Mexico, I was completely unprepared for a recent, flawless concert at Oscar's in Palm Springs, California. Oscar's owner, Dan Gore, invited the group after it garnered lively publicity for playing three gigs in May in the Los Angeles area. Gore lived many years in Los Angeles and heard of the gifted ensemble during celebrations for the Cinco de Mayo holiday. The music and its message appealed to Gore, whose Oscar's programming encourages  acceptance and honors the rainbow theme Carlos Samaniego founded and directs Mariachi Arcoiris. espoused by supporters of the gay community. Mariachi Arcoiris de Los Angeles is the brainchild of Samaniego, who studied classical violin and singing and has a 20-year history with the gay music industry. He talked engagingly about growing up in a macho culture, being a "different kid," and wanting to share his talents in an environment that accepted his sexuality and saw him as a fine musician.  Mariachi Arcoiris (Rainbow Mariachi) is available for tours, bookings.   Oscar's has a new chef and  tasty menu options. SUCCESSFUL GIGS at a gay Latino cowboy nightclub gave him and others a leg up, but the machismo continued and became depressing. So by 2014, Samaniego formed a 10-member group identifying itself as "lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, non-binary, asexual and pansexual," Samaniego said. ACCORDING TO   Gore, "There's a real need for a platform for this caliber of entertainment."  Oscar's is known for its programming diversity, welcoming a heavily gay audience for its drag cabaret, brunches, strip shows and tea dances. It's a place where people feel safe on both sides of the footlights, and because of this has a loyal, supportive clientele.   Oscar's owner Dan Gore runs the lights for productions, here for the mariachi band. Natalia Marie Melendez is the world's first transgender woman mariachi musician. The Lawndale resident has joined the ensemble for Pride celebrations around California and hopes her speaking out is "a positive moving force in the world -- not just for us, but for generations to come." As the world's only transgender female that plays mariachi music, she says, "It's been difficult. There is a definite machismo culture in mariachi." There was no machismo the night we heard these splendid mariachis. The appreciative crowd leapt to its feet in immediate standing ovation, begging an encore after Samaniego announced the finale. So of course there was another number.  EACH MEMBER of the troupe performed a cameo, show-case number -- some singing, some instrumental,  in a range of repertoire than included "The Impossible Dream," from "Man of LaMancha." The audience sipped and supped through the relaxing, well tuned evening and buoyed by the evening's success, Gore said he hopes to book the ensemble again.   MORE INFORMATION , to book the mariachi band or an Oscar's reservation:     www.mariachiarcoiris.com ;  www.oscarspalmsprings.com     Keller and Cookie give thanks for being vaccinated, for being together, and able to travel and enjoy the world. UP NEXT: Thanksgiving is a time for reflection and appreciation. For Cookie and Keller, Thanksgiving has been "on the road" for their 14 years together -- sometimes with family in California, Oregon, Montana or Georgia, sometimes in Europe or Asia, maybe seeing a show in Las Vegas  or New York. It's also a time for memories of family-friends Thanksgivings in a happy Norman Rockwell world of long ago. More on a nostalgic Thanksgiving Day when we publish our weekly post -- a fresh spin on travel, cruising, nature, family and the arts. Please share the links: www.whereiscookie.com   HAPPY THANKSGIVING! May we carry the spirit of kindness into the holidays of December, giving thanks for our life on Earth, our friends, family, talents, travels and many blessings.

The Flavel House and Heritage Museum in Astoria, Oregon, is one of Astoria's proudest structures.. It is named after Captain George Flavel, early day Astoria ship captain who navigated the Columbia. He was also an entrepreneur and the city's first millionaire. The museum has tours and a gift shop.   'LITTLE SAN FRANCISCO': FIRST AMERICAN SETTLEMENT WEST OF THE ROCKIES, ASTORIA HAS IT ALL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Astoria Column was restored to celebrate Astoria's Bicentennial -- 1811 to 2011. Several fund-raising endeavors rescued the historic piece.  JOHN JACOB ASTOR   never made it to the charming Pacific Northwest town that bears his name. But the millionaire's investment in the region's booming fur trade in the early nineteenth century left an important legacy.  Based at Fort Astoria, the Pacific Fur Company  established several other posts in the Columbia River Basin The beautifully situated Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa welcomes guests on the scenic Columbia River. Several intriguing hotels including Bowline await. ASTORIA REMAINS a vital 21st Century town,  proud of its distinction as the first American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. While the town carefully preserves links to its early 19th Century founding, it also offers "big city" pleasures -- fine dining, a world class maritime museum and the beautiful, award-winning Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa, with its bird's eye views of the mighty Columbia River. Astoria's Bowline Hotel is also on the river and looks lovely. Locals and tourists enjoy a popular trolley and carefully restored Victorian and Craftsman hillside homes dot the hills. The town boasts variety and vintage, attractive contemporary buildings which blend nicely with historic homes. The town rose on prime land on the south shore of the Columbia River, near the Pacific.  The legacy of the first John Jacob Astor lives on in its well kept residences, a graceful mix of offices, shops, eateries and a splendid tower known as the Astoria Column. BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED  in several recent fundraising campaigns, the column stands sentinel over the town, a towering hilltop monument with murals depicting significant events in Oregon's early history. It survives 80 inches of rainfall a year and driving gale winds sweeping off the Pacific.  The south shore of the Columbia River is a picturesque sight,  where the majestic river meets the Pacific Ocean.  WE CLIMBED the unique landmark,  which rises majestically to overlook the mouth of the Columbia River on Coxcomb Hill. Completed in 1926, the imposing concrete and steel structure is part of a 30-acre city park, well loved by locals and a "must see" for tourists. Astoria's trolley is popular with locals as well as the lively tourist trade. Painted by Electus D. Litchfield and Attilio Pusterla, the column is a series of murals, boasting 32 scenes from the history of the region, including Captain Gray's discovery of the Columbia River in 1792 and the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The idea for the column first came about in 1898 when the city decided that an electrified tower in a small town could attract attention, even rivaling the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It took nearly three decades to create the column with its panoramic views.  ASTORIA'S ETHNIC mix is Scandinavian, Chinese and many other races, including the native American Clatsop tribe which helped Lewis and Clark survive a seriously dreary winter in 1805.   WE ARE MUSEUM buffs so the Columbia River Maritime Museum attracted us.  Beautifully laid out, its dramatic displays showcase the fishing, shipping and military history in a dramatic waterfront building. (More on that next week.) American Pride anchors in the waters of the Columbia River. Then making use of our brief time in Astoria, we took in  the Flavel House Museum, a lovely, restored Queen Anne style Victorian mansion built by a clever ship captain and real estate mogul who also had an eye for period furniture.  His wife's manicured gardens live on as volunteers maintain the grounds and beds as they were. ASTORIA ALSO has its share of bawdy history.  Along with its elegant architecture, it was also home to its share of brothels, breweries and opium dens.  That was long ago and today Astoria's trolley, a main attraction, winds past the onetime rowdy area.  The trolley is beloved by its residents, so we took a ride along the water, stopping for fish and chips then ice cream at a pair of the many inviting Astoria restaurants. The Liberty Theatre has long been a favorite vintage building.  The 1925 Liberty Theater was another highlight for the two of us theater buffs. Built three years after the 1922 fire that destroyed much of the city, the one-time Vaudeville house was restored with nearly $9 million in donated funds. Astoria boasts some deep pockets and a "can do" spirit that the original J.J. Astor would certainly endorse and be proud of. We'll be back to this welcoming, interesting town, a happy blend of old, new and nice. More information :  www.americancruiselines.com ;  www.oldoregon.com ;  www.crmm.org (Maritime Museum); www.astoria.or.us ; www.libertyastoria.org ; www.bowlinehotel.com www.cannerypierhotel.com   Beautifully rendered displays of nautical life are part of the charm of Astoria's Maritime Museum. UP NEXT: While we're on the Columbia River, and only 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean, we take readers inside the Columbia River Maritime Museum, considered one of the finest maritime museums in the country, and home to the largest collection of maritime artifacts in the Pacific Northwest.  More than 20,000 items, paintings, exhibits, drawings and memorabilia welcome visitors in a beautifully designed space.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

American Cruise Lines' vessels come close to land for beautiful scenery and fascinating ports. AMERICAN CRUISE LINES OFFERS BALCONY ROOMS WITH STELLAR VIEWS, CHANGING LANDSCAPE, GOURMET DINING, SAFETY AND SURPRISES We could see and soon touch the locks from our balcony aboard American Pride on the trail of explorers Lewis and Clark. Great educational fun . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE PLEASURES of river cruising are many.  First, you're close to shore. Because of your ship's size, you easily tie up at surprisingly beautiful -- even enchanting -- places. Instead of waiting in line to get off the ship, you walk in minutes from your stateroom to your shore adventure. In a few quick strides, you're embarking on a leisurely independent stroll or a fascinating land excursion. Your transportation awaits, a smiling guide greets you and the day is yours to explore historic venues, museums, parks, to begin a new experience. YOU MIGHT  be docked in the center of historic towns and places, as we were on our recent Columbia and Snake rivers cruise on the Lewis and Clark trail. We had to pull ourselves away from the changing landscape of our river sojourn. Yet we enjoyed the equally interesting land tours. We scarcely wanted to leave our balcony for the wonders we witnessed there. Coffee or cocktail in hand, we were "up close" to locks and lighthouses, dams and lavish private homes, farms and parks. Each  turn of the river offered changing landscape, bird life, deer, cattle, even a fox. There they were --  right off our balcony stateroom, our home for a week aboard American Cruise Lines' American Pride. On land, we discovered surprises aplenty: lavish gardens, museums, water sportsmen, intriguing architecture, even a xylophone for music-minded me to play at an Oregon riverfront park.  Cookie played a xylophone, a feature of several Oregon parks .  American Cruise Lines offers unique side trips to historic  venues such as this 1913 streetcar in Astoria, Oregon.  WE ENJOYED and appreciated the homegrown aspect that personifies ACL.  The fleet is American made and American staffed. Workers are trained to reflect that spirit of confidence and pride.  ACL's are the largest riverboat  staterooms  afloat.  While many lines are just recovering from the purgatory of the pandemic, ACL with its variety of domestic cruising options has been back in business for months, specializing in sophisticated cruising and intriguing activities to enjoy on land. The variety of locks adds interest and photo opportunities on ACL river trips. This "guillotine lock" is on the Snake .      Our options included a chance to hop aboard Astoria's Riverfront Trolley, a delightful 1913 heritage streetcar using former freight railroad tracks near the south bank of the Columbia River. Transiting the dams and locks is fun on a small ship, too. We joined fellow travelers to touch the moist side walls as we passed through. We transited through several kinds of locks including the aptly named "Guillotine," which -- like the French execution implement -- lifts up, then comes down.  We could feel the drips of the water! Fascinating way to climb and descend as we travel, explore and learn. EACH AMERICAN Cruise Line itinerary tailors its stops and lectures to life on the specific river.  In the South, there are trips to plantations and the food reflects the locale -- barbecue in Memphis, gumbo in New Orleans. New England voyages may feature fall foliage.  Mississippi River cruises feature Cajun cuisine, Civil war battles, wildlife, jazz, etc. So there is a river cruise for every taste -- and one can be as busy or as laid back as one wishes.  Repeat cruisers like to sit on their balconies and admire the scenery, while others prefer to get some exercise -- walk into the various towns, or hop aboard conveniently located transportation for tours or museum visits. Bruce Keller steps inside a tule mat lodge, a replica of ones used by native people.  We witnessed the same raw beauty the explorers saw on our 350-mile transit. But instead of building forts in the rain and sleet, we toured a lovely museum and stepped inside the "tule mat" lodges, clever, tightly woven structures which protected the native people from cold in the winter and kept them cool in summer. Small boats can anchor near land, and welcoming committees often greet, as in The Dalles, Oregon. NEW FRIENDS were excited to be heading to a recently introduced ACL itinerary, "Music Cities," a few days after our Pacific Northwest adventure. They, too, are music lovers, eager to learn more about the variety of musical genres explored on the "bluegrass to jazz" itinerary. View from the gorge: Bruce Keller and Christene Cookie Meyers enjoy Maryhill Museum of Art .  If you're a Mark Twain buff, you can satisfy your yearning for the history, art, folklore and literature spawned on the Mississippi -- enjoying a one-man show by an actor impersonating Samuel Clemens.  The boat stops north of St. Lewis in in Hannibal, Mark Twain's boyhood home so cruisers can tour a fascinating museum in his honor. Keller, Cookie and driver-guide  Mike became friends during the couple's week on the rivers. As art and history buffs, we never miss an museum jaunt. The Maryhill Museum of Art, a beautifully designed, small museum with an eclectic collection, offers a stunning room of Rodin sculptures plus artifacts from Queen Marie of Romania, Orthodox icons and unique chess sets Who'd expect to find these treasure in rural Klickitat County, Washington? But there they are.  We enjoyed the museum's" thrones" on a bluff atop the east end of the Columbia River Gorge.     MEETING CHEERFUL  drivers, who double as knowledgeable guides, is another benefit of traveling with ACL.  These history-minded native sons and daughters know the territory and share their knowledge and stories because they follow the ship. We had the same lovely guide, Mike, all week, and developed a friendship with him -- enjoying his anecdotes as we retraced parts of the famous Lewis and Clark Expedition 216 years later. We enjoyed superb accommodations and comforts of modern day cruising, while learning of the hardships faced by the daring explorers who shaped western expansion so long ago.   americancruiselines.com or 1 800 981-9149 A painting at Sacajawea State Park Interpretive Center in Pasco, Wash . UP NEXT:   So remarkable a contribution did Sacajawea make to the 1805 Lewis and Clark expedition that she is remembered and revered today throughout the West.  We hopped on and off American Pride to visit several sights paying homage to the brilliant guide, interpreter, lay doctor and linguist, with a side-trip to a luxury inn named after her, the Sacajawea Hotel in Three Forks, Montana. The influence of Sacajawea is felt today, nearly 220 years after the journey, in museums, parks, and the hotel we visited is one of many places to honor Sacajawea throughout the west. We pay homage to her and enjoy the hotel, reminding readers to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Crossing the fabled bar where the Columbia meets the Pacific is the focus of several exhibits at the engaging Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria, Oregon.   Life-size exhibits draw viewers from around the world into the story of Astoria's stormy relationship with the sea. ASTORIA'S MARITIME MUSEUM BOASTS MARVELOUS EXHIBITS, HISTORY, ART, SEA LIFE ARTIFACTS   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The museum's exhibits artfully blend photos, artifacts, three-dimensional art and more. Here, high-tech underwater diving of yore. THE MARITIME history of Astoria, Oregon, is one of tumult, terror and triumph. Many a ship and sailor have been pummeled by the surf -- thrown against the shoals on the treacherous Columbia River bar. We learned at the Columbia River Maritime Museum that the river has taken at least 2,000 vessels and nearly as many lives. MERGING OF river and ocean take on mythic proportion at the splendid museum, which does an excellent job of explaining the fascinating reality of meandering river meeting a wild ocean.   A museum visitor notes the warning given as ships approached convergence of river and sea. This section is so rugged because of the huge volume of water as the river spreads nearing the ocean. It washes sands and sediments from many miles away against thrashing tides. As the 1,243-mile long Columbia reaches its mouth, its drainage basin is enormous -- almost the size of France. So when the swelling river meets the Pacific, it's a big deal. It began quietly in British Canada, gathering speed and ferocity before colliding with the turbulent Pacific. From the days of dugout canoes to the early 1900s, lives were lost in this crushing convergence. Installation of great boulder-mound jetties more than a century ago made the area safer, but before that, the treacherous "bar" was a dangerous five miles wide and filled with changing channels and shifting shoals, making it a navigational nightmare. A lighthouse lens designed by Fresnel is artfully displayed in the Astoria museum. THE MUSEUM takes a colorful look at the river and its importance to its host town and beyond -- a massive region between Washington and Oregon.     ​ More than a traditional repository, the Columbia River Maritime Museum is a unique combination of seafaring vessels, maritime artifacts, and exquisite paintings, enhanced by exhibits, three-dimensional displays, live demonstrations and hands-on activities. A giant ship's anchor is a focal point outside the museum, and often photographed by visitors. One of the paintings, "Smoky Sunset on the Columbia River," is breathtaking -- a ship at full sail on one wide and a canoe on the other, all framed by haunting land and light. For my sailor partner and me, it was an engaging history lesson about boats, equipment and the hazards of the sea. THE MUSEUM  naturally focuses on the waterway that gave birth to Astoria and the northwest region of Oregon. But its scope is broader. Anyone with an interest in the sea and its dangers, challenges and pleasures will enjoy this creative gem of a museum.    The famous Morro Rock stands proudly in the harbor of a quaint seaside town with shops, views, plenty to amuse. UP NEXT:  The pretty coastal town of Morro Bay, California, attracts hikers, drivers, sea lovers and tourists from around the world. Located midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, this lively village is home to world-famous Morro Rock, which serves as the backdrop to an enticing abundance of year-round outdoor activities. We explore the options -- kayaking, surfing, boating, golfing, hiking and biking. We also look at some quaint hotels and visit Morro Bay State Park, home to lagoons, trails and a rich bird-rich saltwater marsh. Remember to explore, learn and live at www.whereiscookie.com