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Savannah food tour mixes history, tastings, parks, monuments and more A happy, well fed group of travelers and foodies finish a fun Savannah tasting tour, with guide Brenden Davis giving the enthusiastic group a "thumbs up" send-off. SAVANNAH FOOD TOUR OFFERS DELECTABLE TASTINGS, LIVELY COMMENTARY, HISTORY, FACTS, AND WALKING TO WORK IT OFF Food tour participants sweetened their day with tastings of delicious honeys at Capital Bee Company in Savannah . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE'RE FOOD tour junkies. We love tasting new dishes, dining in small, interesting cafes and restaurants, visiting places where the locals hang out.  Christene digs into a double-fried pork chop with a tangy sauce. WHEREVER WE GO  in the world, we try to work a food tour into our visit. We've sampled tapas in Barcelona, crab cakes and key lime pie in Fort Lauderdale and Key West, sushi in Kyoto and fish and chips in London. All on food and walking tours. Zunzi's chicken sandwich has a double sauce with a four-letter-word that locals love to order . Our latest culinary adventure was in Savannah, where tastings ranged from a tasty chicken sandwich with two sauces at Zunzi's, to a satisfying double-fried pork chop, honey straight from the hive, a southern style taco with peach salsa, the best grits and shrimp we've sampled, and irresistible ice cream.  Delectable shrimp and grits, served in a creamy sauce at 22 Square, named after the square it is near, and a Savannah favorite.      A GOOD GUIDE makes a food tour work.  Sure, the food is important.  But having a lively, knowledgeable guide is the key to a successful, enjoyable tour where participants learn something about the city as well as its culinary offerings. Food served with fun and facts! We hit the food tour jackpot with our excellent guide, Brenden Davis.  His genial manner, knowledge of Savannah's finest eats, and a keen sense of humor kept us amused while we tasted and strolled this historic and beautifully designed city.  Davis has a background in radio and TV and is an experienced actor as well.   Zunzi's chicken sandwich comes with 2 sauces.Its moniker is  four-letter word starting with "s" because when a customer asked if he could have two sauces, the waiter said "s*** yeah."  FOOD, FUN, FACTS HIS TASTE  Experience is all its title implies. The "experience" began at Zunzi's, with Davis introducing himself and giving each of us a turn at introduction. Then a sketch of his own life and background -- he's from Detroit and broke with family tradition to eschew a law or medical degree in favor of  radio, improv and comedy. Before we munched a delicious chicken sandwich, he gave us an overview of central Savannah and its art, architecture and history. Then we strolled to the other five stops, continuing our delightful culinary extravaganza. Besides the leisurely look around the downtown, the tour included a half-dozen of Savannah's most interesting eateries. Savannah Taste Experience is a perfect way to enjoy the city's finest and most fun fare, and learn something about the town. BEFORE EACH stop, Davis offered casual commentary.  Fancy Parker's Urban Gourmet, he explained, is famous for its made-from-scratch Southern-inspired food.  It's an expansive, inviting space where locals and visitors come for addictive double-fried pork chops and other specialties for breakfast, lunch, dinner or late-night snacks. It's not all fried options; add beautiful salads, "she crab" and more. The place was originally an 1899 gas station.  Then on to Capital Bee Company, which rose to local fame with its attractive array of honeys -- more than 30 -- all pollinated by Georgia bees on flowers ranging from the rare to the abundant. Tacos southern style are a Savannah favorite, Davis explained. The state's famous Georgia peach is the main ingredient in a spicy salsa gracing our tasty tacos at Java Burrito Company. 22 SQUARE offered the best grits we've tasted -- with a creamy butter and cream sauce and perfectly cooked shrimp. We came back the next day for dinner. A dish of Leopold's Ice cream ended our gastronomic romp at the Savannah Taste Experience Marketplace/ Brenden Davis offers commentary, humor, history and fun food facts on a lively tour. The company offers several other tours besides the one we enjoyed. Each focuses on a different aspect of southern life, particularly life in Savannah. The tours include Southern Fried, First Squares, Port City and Walktails and Barbites (an inviting happy hour tour.) The enterprise also has a fun book, "Savannah Food:  A Delicious History," available on Amazon  A lovely complement to the food tastings is a chance to learn something about the history of charming Savannah.     The tours are reasonably priced because the tastings make for a fine meal. The groups are kept small -- usually no more than 10 or 12.   Prices range from $52 to $79, a bargain. We booked on line, or you can call: 912 221-4439 www.savannahtasteexperience.com info@SavannahTasteExperience.com     Savannah's Mercer Williams House is eye catching and a much loved landmark. NEXT UP:  A city of grace and history, Savannah has much to recommend it, from lively theater and   restaurants to a world class contemporary art museum and an abundance of homes with   fascinating pasts.  There's a terrific trolley,  ghost tours and   harbor cruises.   Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fun, fresh look at the arts, nature, travel, family and more.

Dreams inspire trip, tattoos; roadies set off with a poem      POEM by CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS by BRUCE KELLER     This week, twin dreams came down to us with travel forecasts bold.      Our vision puts us on the road (We're doing what we're told.)      Midlife crisis?  Call us nuts.      For sticks and stones don't phase us.      We're grabbing gusto, bucket listing,      singing, playing, praise us!     We've bought twin Harleys, new tattoos      so on the road we're speeding.      Cookie's hair is nice and big      (We don't plan too much reading.)      By trains, boats, planes we'll navigate      We'll waken when it pleases.      We'll order well from room service,      take Cs to stave off sneezes.      From San Diego, up the coast,      Montana, 'round the planet      we'll feast on mangoes, lambchops, jam      perhaps a pomegranate.     Kel's fishing pole and Cookie's sax      will add to our diversions.    We're doing all the things we want,    please spare us vexed aspersions.      We've said so-long to work-aday    with all its cares and worry.    We're going where the sun is bright      and do not plan to hurry.      Our Yorkie kids are all packed up.      With kibbles, toys and sweaters.      We've tossed their leashes in a bag      so they, too, have no fetters.      Our gigs are multiple and fun,      some big fish in our calling.      Some bands, some dancing, gambling, too. Some wagons off we're falling.      We'll grab some shows: jazz, classics, blues, St.-Martin-in-the-Fields?      Predictable?  That's just not us.      We're kicking up our heels!       Sexy Marlon Brando      looked so handsome in his shirts.      But so does Keller -- check it out --      And he can sleep in yurts.     Paris beckons, London woos.      We've booked two top Ritz Carltons      In case you're wondering "what the hell?"      Beware of springtime charlatans.    So Carpe diem, have some fun.      Get out there. Shake that bed.      Come travel armchair or for real.      For soon we'll all be dead.      Next blog up: Europe through the eyes of our spirited travelers.     Next Wednesday, our roadies take us to Portugal, Italy, France and the Canary Islands, with a nod to fountains, harbors and house wine! Then Saturday next, a treasure trove of orchids in La Jolla Shores hotel basement.  Meet the magicians behind the blooms. We post on Wednesdays and Saturdays at: whereiscookie.com

November's Guy Fawkes Day celebrates a plot's failure with bonfire, fireworks, merriment STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER & CM "The Carpe Diem Kids" Guy Fawkes Day offered a dream come true opportunity for Bruce Keller, who lit the bonfire in Yorkshire, UK. Guy Fawkes Day celebrates the failure of a 1605 plot to overthrow the King and blow up Parliament. It has largely lost its political connotations and is now a day of social gatherings, a meal, fireworks and, of course, a bonfire. MOST AMERICANS don't know much about Guy Fawkes or the day that honors his failed plot centuries ago to overthrow government. But it's a big deal in England, and we were in Yorkshire for last year's merry celebration. Guy Fawkes Night -- also known as Guy Fawkes Day, Bonfire Night or Fireworks Night -- is an annual commemoration observed on Nov. 5, primarily in Great Britain. It celebrates the failure of a 1605 plot by zealous Catholics to blow up Parliament and assassinate King James I who they believed was persecuting their people. Bruce Keller lights the flame to burn an effigy of Guy Fawkes, whose 1605 plot failed. IN YORKSHIRE, the holiday has a tinge of irony because that's where the rebel who gave the event its name was born. My husband, photographer Bruce Keller, was fascinated by the party preparation. Our host, Sue Speight, made sugary sweets and tasty chili. But what intrigued Keller most was the fire. Like many lads, he was a childhood pyromaniac, who accidentally ignited his back yard. Hearing that the celebration involved a bonfire, he was thrilled. He was invited to set the blaze of piles of trash, paper and wood scraps contributed by neighbors and topped with a straw-filled effigy of poor Guy Fawkes. Friends and neighbors gather for fireworks, sparklers, supper, sweets and beverages in the Speight barn. The finale: burning of Guy Fawkes. IN ITS EARLY days, the event was designed to reinforce anti-Catholic sentiment and the power of the Protestant state. Effigies of Guy Fawkes and the Pope were traditionally burnt accompanied by anti-Catholic sermons in Church. Today, that's gone and the festival has largely lost its religious and political connotations . We enjoyed plot toffee, new to us, a brittle and savory rich dark toffee, broken into pieces and traditionally served only on "Bonfire Night." Our host, Sue Speight said, "It's a chance to gather, to bring together neighbors and generations, have a nice meal and a bit of fun. We had Sue's delicious chili, but sometimes the celebration includes hot pork pies and those famous mushy peas. For dessert, we enjoyed Sue's parkin, a succulent ginger and syrup cake. We also had her excellent plot toffee, a brittle candy broken into pieces and served only on Bonfire Night. Bonfire Night host Sue Speight, right, with guests Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. IN LONDON and other UK cities, public events are held in major parks like Alexandra Palace and Battersea Park. And while the focus is now on community celebrations with food and fireworks, villages also host smaller, local events to share the history of the plot to blow up Parliament and assassinate the king. This failed plot sparked the tradition, which Parliament established in 1506 as a day of public thanksgiving. Guy Fawkes was a devout Catholic, whose plot didn't produce his desired effect, but did spark a centuries old holiday with sweets and bonfires. ******************************** Lisbon's bustling Mercado is a colorful place to visit, with a bounty of fresh produce, here peppers. UP NEXT : Lisbon's allure. One of the world's great seaports, this old, intriguing city has a wealth of wonders to explore, from markets to museums and more. We take you there, in a tuk-tuk, that fun and leisurely way to get to know Portugal's capital city.

Whereiscookie.com new web site STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" GREETINGS, GENTLE readers, fellow culture lovers and traveling friends. We have a new, flashy look and a jazzed up website which previews today. It's our official debut after three months of "packing." We will continue to take you with us on global and domestic romps, on adventures and encounters to make the world a better place. You'll still find us at www.whereiscookie.com , but now with a new flashy look. All our 800-plus stories on cruising, performance, train travel, bus tours, nature and family are preserved, including more than 5,000 photos. It's easy to find a particular topic -- check it out. We'll continue to bring you new stories on travel and theater, with touring and cruising tips and more. The Oct. 16 debut post later today is a lively story on exploring Vancouver's wonders from a bird's eye view aboard Big Bus Tours. Please sign up for new updates. We hope you're as excited as we are! Vancouver's Big Bus Tours offers a fun way to see this exciting Canadian city, with a lively narration of historical sites, parks, monuments, neighborhoods and the city's famous historical landmark, its Gastown Steam Clock.

YOU CAN TALK, WALK, TAKE PHOTOS WITH THE ANIMALS AT TWO AWARD WINNING, FUN AUSTRALIAN SANCTUARIES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller spend time with Maze, a charming new friend who awakened to play. Lone Pine bird trainers present an engaging show featuring various hawks, owls and other beautiful birds of prey, some rescues. A VISIT TO  Australia without a koala encounter would be like Christmas without Santa. A male kangaroo at Lone Pine snoozes, awaiting visitors. We fed him after he awakened and jumped toward us. We had the pleasure of a double koala hit on our recent return to Down Under. Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary near Brisbane and Billabong Sanctuary 15 minutes from Townsville beckoned. Who can resist getting up close to a koala, that intriguing docile figure who spend 20 hours a day snoozing. We sampled the best of Australia's wildlife at these two well known enterprises. Lone Pine is the world's oldest and largest koala sanctuary, Billabong Sanctuary has been family owned for 40 years. View on the Brisbane River of whispy clouds and homes and landscapes, from Mirimar II. EACH HAS its own unique appeal, and differing ways to enjoy the wondrous creatures, exhibits and encounters that make this country's wildlife unique. More than 80 per cent of the country's plants, mammals, reptiles and frogs are unique to Australia and found nowhere else in the world. Millions of years of evolution as the continent split from the super continent Gondwana resulted in this fascinating mix of critters and birds. Cookie feeds a pair of Australian geese, one of the pleasures at Billabong. At Lone Pine, more than 100 contented koalas reside. Those sleepy residents of Australia's thousands of eucalyptus trees are the main attraction but this popular sanctuary is also home to dozens of contented kangaroos,shy dingos, saltwater crocodiles and a bounty of beautiful birds. Here you can hold a koala, pat a dingo, and view a saltwater crocodile from an underwater viewing dome. Trained sheep dogs are in residence, too, along with stealthy birds of prey, who perform with skilled trainers in a breathtaking show. The bird show draws oohs and aahs, as fascinated visitors sit in grandstands. Birds are cued to fly from one trainer to the other, so close one can feel the whoosh of their wings.   The place is best reached on the Miramar II boat, part of the popular Koala and River Cruise operation.  The crew is friendly, the Brisbane River journey beautiful and we enjoyed lovely scones and tea to enjoy during a delightful commentary.  Once at Lone Pine, one walks from a jetty through the forest, up 28 steps to a delightful complex spread artfully over 44 acres.  We especially enjoyed feeding the kangaroos, the fascinating birds of prey show and simply strolling the grounds.  A colorful parrot at Billabong Sanctuary talked to us as we surveyed him on his perch. ONE MAY book the five-hour Koala cruise easily on line, traveling on the Brisbane River past iconic landscape and historical homes with a pleasant commentary to enhance the journey.  Three hours with the animals and an hour each say on the boat make a delightful outing. More on the five-hour Koala Cruise here: Click here for more Lone Pine   Billabong pics in nature/Billabong AT THE 27 -acre Billabong Sanctuary, we enjoyed the interactive talks and feeding shows, wildlife presentation and holding a koala, an opportunity we couldn't resist. The lively place is 17 kilometers from Townsville, and it's about much more than the drowsy and charming koala.  We watched rangers handle snakes, learned about the wombat and marveled at the elusive cassowary, that handsome, large, flightless bird closely related to the emu and the heaviest bird in Australia.   This cassowary at Billabong looks like he is ready for war, with a striking "helmet" to help him push through tall grasses in the wild. WE WERE absolutely enchanted with her, in fact, and spent over an hour watching her.  The  distinctive "hood" and reddish plumage made a colorful spectacle as she ambled toward us. The goldish and brown "helmet" atop her head, above the blue feathers, is called a casque and helps her cut through vegetation in the wild. Wow!  WE GOT UP close and personal with the adorable koalas during the koala feeding, watching as rangers hand-fed fresh eucalyptus leaves to awaken the guys and gals. We watched with fascination as they clambered through trees to select their favorite tender green tips, and we learned about the fascinating lifestyle of these iconic Australian animals. Did you know that a koala can eat up to a tenth of its body weight in leaves every day? Yet, holding one, we felt how light she is. After instruction as to the proper holding technique, we found our Maze to be sweet and accommodating, even putting her hand on my arm. We took an Uber to the Billabong place, and the boat Miramar on the Mirimar Koala and River cruise to Lone Pine. This pleasant two-deck tourist boat has been taking visitors to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary for over 70 years and for us has been a "must do" experience all three visits to Brisbane. Here's looking at you.  Expressive eyes, and a somewhat dazed look are marks of the koala. They spend 20 hours daily munching eucalyptus leaves and are well represented in two Australia sanctuaries. WE RECOMMEND the cruise through Brisbane's historic landscapes, iconic attractions, pastoral scenery, mansions,  and interesting wildlife habitats. We were entertained by the recorded commentary, with occasional asides from the knowledgeable captain both coming and going.  Then we made the most of our three hours exploring Lone Pine.  We spent another three hours at Billabong, celebrating its 40th anniversary. We delighted in strolls around the grounds, enjoyed a half dozen talks, feedings and shows on wombats, crocodiles, reptiles, koalas, even dingos. Click for Koala River Cruise info Click for more on Lone Pine Click for more on Billabong The Australian Museum in Sydney is a wealth of fascinating exhibits, from Australia's connection to animals to indigenous cultures. UP NEXT:  The Australian Museum is like no other. Established in 1827, it has garnered worldwide attention for its anthropological and history collections, spread out over three floors in the heart of Sydney. The permanent display spans Indigenous Australian culture, Australian fossils and local animals. Changing exhibits come from around the world.  We were fascinated to spend several hours with the Machu Pichu exhibit, which included artifacts as well as a virtual reality visit, with capsule like chairs that moved to accentuate the experience of visiting this ancient wonder. Remember to explore, live and learn and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and the arts. thanks for sharing the links, too:   Click here for whereiscookie overview

A pumpkin carving contest on Queen Mary 2, offered a mix of spooky and amusing results, some irreverent, some ghoulish. Travelers find Halloween displays along with Day of the Dead and All Saints Day decor in hotels in Europe, Mexico, and other countries around the world as autumn holidays and celebrations merge and overlap. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" ALL THE WORLD seems to enjoy a celebration, be it pagan inspired or religious based. This time of year epitomizes that. Although Halloween and autumn's religious holidays are not technically related, they occur around the same time. Besides Halloween, All Saints Day and the Day of the Dead are famously celebrated in many countries around the world. Mexico City's Reforma stages an elaborate parade on Day of the Dead with food and feasting and the deceased honored by their loved ones. THESE AUTUMNAL holidays combine traditions and customs, sometimes religious, often pagan inspired, mostly for fun and a chance to enjoy the company of friends and family. Halloween is celebrated differently worldwide, with its roots in ancient Celtic traditions. In North America, it's known for costumes, trick-or-treating, and haunted attractions. Mexico, Puerto Rico and other places blend Halloween with All Saints Day Nov. 1 and All Souls Day, Nov. 2. These days honor saints and remember the deceased. In Mexican culture, Dia de los Muertos is a joyful, sacred observance of the deceased with food, music, photos, costumes, and memories. Mexico City has a huge, popular Day of the Dead parade Nov. 2. All Saints Day in a Barcelona cathedral involves candles and prayer for the dead. ALL SAINTS DAY is celebrated in historically Catholic countries, especially in Europe and Latin America, and is a public holiday in many, including Spain, France, Italy, Poland, Portugal, Mexico, and the Philippines . Customs vary, but often involve visiting graves, lighting candles, and offering flowers to honor saints and deceased loved ones, with variations seen in the celebrations in Mexico, the Philippines and elsewhere. A typical Halloween for Cookie with great niece and nephew, Peny and James, and their treat haul. WE WERE pleasantly surprised to find Halloween celebrated in Rome, Lisbon, Barcelona and San Juan recently -- with plenty of spooky charm. Halloween has become increasingly popular in Portugal over the years. We don't think of it as a traditional Portuguese holiday, yet we were greeted in our hotel with a display of carved pumpkins. Back in the states, neighbors and relatives carve them too, and collect treats door to door as we did as kids. A Halloween quartet of revelers in Europe, from left: Bruce, Christene, Maarten and Maarten, friends from Belgium (yes, both are Maarten.) The influence of global pop culture, advertising and locals of festivities have made Halloween a growing trend around the globe. Throughout southern Europe, we found eerie decorations, haunted events, trick or treaters on the streets and other lively activities. In some rural areas in southern Europe, children participate in a tradition called Bread for God. On the morning of All Saints' Day, kids go door-to-door asking for cakes, sweets, or small gifts, much like our trick-or-treating tradition, but with a more spiritual undertone and treats supposedly shared. As Halloween becomes more popular, it blends with these traditions, creating a unique fusion of religious based culture and modern Halloween festivities. ********************* Bruce Keller lights a bonfire topped with an effigy of Guy Fawkes, whose failed attempt to overthrow British government centuries ago is celebrated. UP NEXT: While we're celebrating, come with us to a Yorkshire fete, Guy Fawkes Day. We join friends who celebrate the failure of the Gunpowder Plot of 1605. Fawkes was one of a disgruntled group of English Catholics involved in an elaborate scheme to overthrow government. He was born and educated in York before deciding to off the King and blow up Parliament. It's really a chance to have a party, invite friends for supper and fireworks, burn a large bonfire and burn Fawkes in effigy. Bruce Keller lit the flame.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" An old-fashioned carriage ride around New York's Central Park is a wonderful treat in any season. An autumn visit is the best time, though, with the start of fall colors, fewer crowds and more calm. WE VISIT New York each autumn, and are excited to be able to continue this tradition as fall colors blanket a favorite city. This favorite city is always busy, fun and noisy, so don't expect an autumn visit to bring about miraculous quiet. You won't be strolling empty avenues and there are still plenty of traffic, dog walkers and street vendors. But the crush of summer crowds is over, nature's colors are spectacular, and temperatures are crisp, sunny, glorious. New York's Bow Bridge in Central Park is beginning to reveal glorious fall color. We recommend Central Park as first choice if you have only time for one outing. It offers prime spots to view changing colors -- like the Bow Bridge and Bethesda Terrace, But we also visit the spectacular High Line, and take a ferry to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Fall colors are spectacular if you want to stroll the High Line, New York's novel repurposing of derelict raised railroad tracks. To experience the best of New York's autumn foliage, the High Line can't be beat. It is famous for its variety of natural foliage -- plants native to the area -- and hundreds of vibrant asters are abloom now and into mid-November. Other places in the city to catch fall's splendor are: The boat trip to the Statue of Liberty offers a pretty view of fall colors along the shore, then a view of the imposing Statue of Liberty, here enjoyed by Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. Prospect Park for its magical atmosphere. Other top spots in the area include the "Top of the Rock" which gives a splendid overview of all the city's color, New York Botanical Garden which puts on a fine fall foliage display, Wave Hill in the Bronx, and Brooklyn Botanic Garden. For a mix of nature and city views, try Brooklyn Bridge Park and Little Island.  We recommend cityPASS for exploring this and many other fabulous cities at great savings. To book or check out cityPASS  @citypass *************** UP NEXT : Halloween fun and religious holidays converge, overlap and blend this time of year. We take readers to Mexico and Europe for Day of the Dead celebrations, All Saints Day, and other seasonal celebrations, including favorite U.S. Halloween with its traditions. Halloween is celebrated in many European cities, partly to entertain U.S. guests, and because it's a fun way to involve staff. Here, the lobby of Rome's Waldorf Cavalieri is decked out with pumpkins carved by personnel.

Lovely Vancouver is best seen by Big Bus if you're there only briefly. It's a great option for an entertaining overview and if you have a bit more leisure time, it's a great way to get a taste and overview of a city. Editor's Note:  Today, we debut our new website. It makes it easier for you, our cherished readers, to find information on cities, tours, activities, cruises, trains, performance, special events in your area, parks, nature preserves and the lively mix of stories and photos you've come to enjoy these past 13-plus years. Our new server comes WITHOUT ADS, something we've worked on for months to achieve. We'll hope you'll sign up to receive our weekly posts. We've made it exciting, contemporary and easier for you to plan your own travels. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE'RE BUS junkies. We've toured dozens of the world's great cities by bus and for our time and money, there's no better tour operation. It's a reliable, pleasant, economical choice. The worldwide company Big Bus Tours offers sightseeing tours in many cities around the globe. We've hopped on and off Big Bus in Sydney, Singapore, London, Paris, New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles and recently in Vancouver. We had the pleasure of a personalized commentary from Sherry, whose insights added immense depth and detail to our time. Although Big Bus usually offers audio guided tours, we were lucky this recent day as Big Bus is revamping and improving its already popular operation. Vancouver's water and city skyline are observed from Big Bus, and you're free to hop off to explore. THE TOURS are typically hop-on, hop-off style, allowing passengers to board and disembark at designated stops along the route. In Vancouver, for example, we explored Stanley Park, Granville Island and Gastown, each unique to Vancouver. The places Big Bus selects to hop off are carefully chosen for history, architecture, famous landmarks such as churches, concert halls and theaters, parks, gardens, monuments, government buildings, shops, restaurants. In Vancouver, we viewed lovely landscaping and architecture, and an interesting ethnic mix of people, which make it such a pretty and diverse city. We also photographed young people in costume, for Vancouver's version of Comic-Con. Drivers are eager to show off their city, and we've always had good response to our questions, with pointers for restaurants, parks, museums with particular emphasis on special interests of ours: theater, music and contemporary art. Vancouver's version of Comic-Con was in swing during our recent visit, adding to the fun. WE WALKED from our hotel, to a centrally located landmark of the city. The Gastown Steam Clock is one of Vancouver’s most iconic timepieces and a must for anyone interested in the quirky and unique. It was built in 1977 by horologist Raymond Saunders, designed to harness steam from the city’s underground heating system. We photographed it along with a group of Japanese students, who giggled and photographed this crowd pleasing attraction. Not only does it tell time, but it does so stylishly, emitting puffs of steam and a happy whistle every 15 minutes. Vancouver's Steam Clock is a popular tourist attraction, and an easy walk from a Big Bus stop. DRIVER SHERRY was lively, informative, helpful and eager to show off her city. We've found that to be true worldwide, whether we get personalized comments or one of the excellent taped commentaries. Those are offered in multiple languages and the earphones are comfy, although one can bring one's own. A Big Bus tour is a great addition to any tour. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a Big Bus tour in Vancouver. Many visitors choose to do a whole loop first (most of the Big Bus cities have multiple routes) then decide where to hop off next round. A full loop is usually no longer than two hours.  For a newcomer to a new place to give important grounding, or as a comfortable way to reacquaint and remind of a city's pleasures, Big Bus is a good investment and a pleasant outing for singles, couples or families. We've made many international friends on Big Bus, another plus.  Please keep a lookout for fun weekly posts on our new website, with an improved array of links for destinations, cities, performance and other topics.

The view from our room at the lovely Ostello del Castello, where we spent a few peaceful nights before boarding Bernina Express for a dazzling journey from Tirano, Italy, to St. Moritz, Switzerland. HISTORIC, PICTURESQUE TIRANO HAS MUCH TO OFFER: A CHARMING HOTEL, FINE DINING, WINERIES, MUSEUMS, GORGEOUS VIEWS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU WON'T  find a more amiable and accommodating host than Andrea, owner of Ostello del Castello, a lovely little inn in Tirano, Italy. The charms of hotel Ostello del Castello include great views of the mountains and a decor reflecting both new and old. And you won't find a more picturesque and friendly village with artful shops, delightful eateries, a knock-out mountain setting and easy access to the Bernina Express rail adventure. Bruce Keller, Andrea Gusmeroli and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at Andrea's hotel in Tirano. The host's helpful and welcoming nature is what we remember most about our visit to his 200-year old converted farm house. "Do you own it?" I asked, over a generous breakfast of fruits, cereals, pastries, meats and cheeses. "Well, yes, I do -- with the help of the bank," he winked. About to enjoy a leisurely meal at the artful Restaurant Paravicinni, with engaging artwork and fine service. ANDREA Gusmeroli and his lovely hotel and staff enhanced our stay at every turn. The inn's trademark is old world hospitality extended by  genuinely helpful and pleasant people.  We noticed this from the first afternoon when his assistant arranged a taxi. It was waiting for us at the train station when we arrived after a long day of travel. We'd begun our day in Rome, on to Milan then a train change and at last Tirano.  Delicious salads include homemade wheat and sourdough rolls, with tasty farm fresh vegetables and herbs. So we were tired and didn't relish walking the half-mile on cobblestone streets with four bags from a two-month trip, and a full backpack to boot. After we rested, we asked for pointers on a nearby restaurant. We were steered down the easy hill past neatly kept homes bedecked with flowers and sporting vegetable gardens. Our destination was the fabulous Restaurant Paravicini. Both a local favorite and popular with tourists, the eatery offers tasty regional favorites. We tried excellent spaghetti with shrimp, and a rare steak and potatoes. Our pretty salad came with fresh herbs from the garden and a helpful staff served a crisp local white wine and Keller's faux beer. He pronounced it delicious, an Italian choice, Peroni, which became a favorite. The classy eatery features  cave-like rooms with vaulted ceilings and a handsome, well stocked wine-cellar.  Local meats are expertly prepared with, of course, delectable pasta. WE'D WALKED  up the inn's patio in late afternoon so didn't notice the tiny lights. Later, at dusk, they twinkled to welcome us back. Then, with a view of  mountains in moonlight, we settled into a comfy bed with a down comforter for one of the best night's sleep of our long trip.  Tirano is in the province of Sondrio, Lombardy, population 9,053, adjacent to the Switzerland-Italy border. The river Adda flows through town center. Here are a few pointers to enhance your visit:  * Piazza Cavour. It's a charming square  in the heart of Tirano. Cafes, shops, people watching. Fun  place.  Enjoying the streets of Tirano, Italy, are Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, during time in northern Italy. * The Church of Madonna di Tirano. This Roman Catholic church dates to the 1500s with a bell tower and ornate sculpture-lined interior. We thought it an enchanting combination of Tuscan, Lombard and Venetian architecture. * The Tirano Railway Station is where you'll go to board the Bernina Express or "Trenino del Bernina." The flashy red train connects Tirano with St. Moritz, climbing the spectacular Alps without the use of the rack. It is an  engineering jewel of the Rhaetian Railway and in 2008 became part of the UNESCO Heritage.    For a charming B&B experience with an amiable host and spectacular mountain views: www.ostellotirano.it/booking To book the Bernina Express: www.berninarailway.com Yevgeny Sudbin and his gifted children played piano duets as well as a violin piece Sunday at Tippet Rise, where the 2024 season is underway. UP NEXT: Montana's Tippet Rise Art Center opened the 2024 season with a flourish.  Three standing room only concerts featured world renowned musicians and an internationally known mezzo-soprano, plus a pop up family concert  delighted hikers, picnickers and others who happened to be at the arts center. More on this unique art-music-nature venue which is rapidly being included on thousands of peoples' bucket lists. It's no wonder performers from the world's great concert halls love the tranquility and beauty of Montana after the crush and pressure of concertizing and the rigors of hectic scheduling and constant travel. Take time to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, nature, music, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Last Saturday's "starter kit" talked prices and posed questions to ask yourself when planning a cruise. Cruising offers value, variety, safety and more... you pack and unpack  once!  Recapping: *Are the ship and amenities more important than ports? Prefer to sail the Norwegian Fjords or wander the streets of a Sicilian village? *Must you have an ocean view or balcony? Happy with a cheaper, inside cabin? What's your budget? *Do you want history lectures, Broadway revues, samba lessons, Mayan ruins, cobblestone streets, boutiques, wine tastings, a butler? * Will you buy a cruise-fly package? Are you embarking in one port and disembarking in another? Narrow the field. Here are nine favorite options. * Crystal.  This top-ranked line features fine dining afloat, impeccable service from the penthouse to the pub, pampering treatments (Crystal's "rejuvenating" spas were an artform years ago), understated elegance and itineraries for the "been there, done that" crowd who seek creative slants on familiar places. Crystal's art collection is heralded. She is tops in Travel and Leisure and Conde Nast Cruising offers beauty, relaxation, adventure and pampering. magazine critiques for 20 years. Personalized service, fabulous food, exclusive excursions, scores of complimentary amenities on two gorgeous ships and many other perks attract discerning travelers. www.crystalcruises.com * Oceania.  This mid-sized luxury line is also renowned for its celebrated dining, stunning public and private rooms, terrific land tours, built-in amenities and day-long pampering. Oceania and Crystal attract seasoned cruisers who know what they want and don't mind paying for it. Oceania's port-intensive itineraries often feature overnight visits. She boasts gourmet restaurants, "country club casual," and A Bon Appetit Culinary Center with hands-on cooking classes. www.oceania.com * Celebrity . Versatility and vitality marked a memorable birthday on the Century for my mother, with three generations toasting mum in Europe's grand ports. Celebrity's enhancements include tropical rain showers in the spa, perfectly grilled steaks in open air, interactive classes in art, concierge staterooms and an ice-topped bar with custom martinis. Newer additions to the fleet, Celebrity Reflection and Silhouette have cabana-style haven, real grass recreation areas. The line also offers relaxing Caribbean trips and coastal cruises, from Seattle to San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Diego and Catalina island. www.celebritycruises.com Amenities are part of the fun, here a welcome basket of fruit and sweets. * Cunard.  History, class, experience. Cunard has these in spades. I logged nine Atlantic crossings on the venerable QEII before she was retired to Dubai, and am contemplating a Mediterranean trip on one of the newer Queens. In the Queens and Princess Grill suites, the concierge, butler and amenities are sublime. Couples still dine in black tie and Canyon Ranch treatments are easily arranged, along with priority boarding and pre-dinner canapes en suite. Cunard combines old-world finesse with contemporary allure.   www.cunard.com  * Royal Caribbean International.  This mid-priced line is tops for overall quality. Its glamorous Oasis of the Seas made  headlines in 2010 for its size and splendor. Shore excursions spice up Keller's cruise!    Families love it. We do, too for bang for the buck. Passengers are a lively mix and the loyalty program attracts repeat cruisers galore. You can climb a mountain nine decks above the Boardwalk, watch an ice show, hit Starbucks, plan your land tour to capture New England fall foliage or study geology in the Canary Islands, prowl the wonders of Mumbai or Muscat, sail into Auckland, sip tea in Adelaide, walk the ruins of Ephesus on 22 ships with 280 ports-of-call in 80-plus countries. www.royalcaribbean.com * Holland America.  Whether your tastes run to the Yukon and Denali, or sun-soaked Mediterranean landscapes, Holland America's appealing, mid-sized ships offer "as you wish" dining, refined service and knowledgeable tour guides. This line also prides itself in its loyalty program, and "Mariners" enjoy savings. Whether you're walking in the footsteps of Alexander the Great or toasting under the glow of the Midnight A private balcony is a must for Cookie! Here leaving Florida. Sun, you'll find both surroundings and service to your liking. Like Cunard, Holland America has decades of history. Her Alaska packages are hard to beat. For fans of "Dancing with the Stars" there's an at sea version. www.hollandamerica.com * Princess Cruises. Always classy, Princess has carved a niche for herself for pampering, quality, diverse ports and ability to stretch the vacation dollar and still be classy about it. Aaron Spelling's 1977 "Love Boat," shot aboard the Sun Princess in Mexico, ecame a famously popular TV show, giving the line even more cache. My cruise-loving mum adored Princess ships because they sail the world and treat their passenger royally. www.princess.com * Norwegian Cruise Line.  Most lines make Hawaii stops but this is the only line to regularly transit the Hawaiian islands, visiting four isles in seven days with two overnight stays to give access to the Sailing in and out of port is one of cruising's excitements,  here Brazil beckons at night, after an Atlantic crossing. volcanos, luaus and waterfalls. Norwegian also visits Alaska, and her cruise tours venture deep into the wild, including railroad options, a tundra tour and a visit to a musher's home. The Pearl, Jewel and Sun are the newest ships sailing Alaska. NCL navigates the world with freedom, flexibility and a family fan club. www.ncl.com . * Carnival. From seven-day Mexican Riviera cruises to Alaskan and Caribbean itineraries, Carnival specializes in making the most of a vacation dollar and packing huge fun into your vacation. Her always-a-party ships cruise the globe and, as her name suggests, feature glittery, glitzy, non-stop action-packed cruising. Excellent value for the dollar. www.carnivalcruises.com COMING WEDNESDAY:  San Francisco opens her "Golden Gate"and we're giving away an autographed, first-edition book of poems to the winner of a "name your travel theme" contest. Details Wednesday! Remember to explore, learn, live! We post Wednesdays and Saturdays. Tell your friends about: whereiscookie.com

Dunedin is known as the Edinburgh of New Zealand, and has the green one sees in Scotland. Dunedin's Railway Station is beautifully restored to its 1906 grandeur.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE MEYERS WHEN THE  Scots came to Dunedin in 1848 they brought their culture along -- from bagpipes to cattle to a love of flowers and , yes, haggis. But if you don't like the squeal of the pipes or the mess of innards and arcane cooking methods, never mind. Dunedin has plenty of modern day appeal. The approach, via a pretty bay, previews the day.  You'll see lumber -- a major industry, and a well planned one -- an interesting skyline and plenty of critters, trees and flowers. Dunedin offers art aplenty, often in unexpected places. DUNEDIN  has the feel of a big city minus the crime, pollution and sleaze.  The country's second largest town has a distinct, rural feel. You'll see plump sheep grazing on the drive into town -- the harbor is a few miles from city center.  And you'll see dairy cattle, responsible for beautiful cheese you'll find at the fashionable shops.  Once in town, head to the train station to book a trip on the famed Taieri Gorge Railway, then enjoy the galleries, churches and restaurants galore -- we had a Turkish wrap and Greek food one day, and gorgeous lamb chops another. Rare penguins on the south island. DUNEDIN ALSO  has plenty of city allure, including the southern hemisphere's second-most-photographed building, the iconic Dunedin Railway Station.  Fully restored to its 1906 splendor, it hosts a weekly farmers' market and is where you'll go to book any of the exciting trips to the Taieri Gorge or elsewhere. Lumber is a huge industry in Dunedin. Left, the Taieri Gorge Railway offers a spectacular country ride. Dunedin's famous Railway Station. Known as the Edinburgh of New Zealand, Dunedin is the country's city of the south, wearing its Scottish heritage with pride. Surrounded by dramatic hills and at the foot of a long, picturesque harbor, Dunedin is one of the best-preserved Victorian and Edwardian cities in the southern hemisphere. ACCOMMODATIONS are varied and abundant, from charming B&Bs to luxury hotels such as the Hotel Regis, the St. Clair or Southern Cross. There's lots of nightlife, including funky, colorful places that reminded us of Melbourne's showy "after hours" places.  The food is as varied as the hotels, the bistros architecturally unique and fascinating. Wellington's people are rightly proud of her cable cars and the views they offer of the city.  WE DROVE  up the Otago Peninsula - the views are broad and beautiful and the beaches are rugged. Nestled at the foot of Taiaroa Head is the Royal Albatross Center, the only place on the mainland where you can view Northern Royal Albatross in its natural habitat. You'll also find near Dunedin a remarkable, rare penguin colony. We even found a shop selling vegetarian haggis! No mess, no fuss! COMING UP : Cable cars, vintage autos and organ music as we take to Wellington, New Zealand. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Expressive hands of a Maori elder welcome visitors and enhance a story in a village on a Waimaramamaori.com tour. Our guide, Denise, ponders a question in a pensive and reflective moment before a musical show. TRAVELERS LEARN OF ANCIENT CULTURE, ENJOY MUSIC, GAMES, TATTOOS, ART, TALES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  THE MAORI  people are a proud and noble race, descending from warriors, farmers, healers, astronomers and explorers.   The people go back as far as known New Zealand history.  In fact, the first settlers of New Zealand were the Polynesian forebears of today's proud Maori people. No one is certain where they came from or precisely when they arrived.  Some think they originated on the Cook Islands, others think Tahiti or the Marquesas. Denise and her cousin, and now a nephew, above, lead demonstrations and illustrate Maori games for tourists. The tattoo is an art for the Maori people. Eels are cultivated as a crop in the Maori culture. TODAY'S Maori carry on the cultural traditions of music, family loyalty, crafts and gardening.  Group singing and dancing, or "kapa haka," has real power. The gentle people can sound fierce in their chants, but soft as singers of the lullaby in their Polynesian sounding story-songs. IN VISITS  to two separate villages, we felt a closeness to the people we hadn't expected in just brief forays into their lives.   Young Maori students learn the art of music and dancing from the generations before. Their elaborately carved war canoes are respected globally. Their artful tattoos are passed on through generations, telling vivid stories of family, loss and accomplishment. Our two brief days with the Maori are treasured memories, highlights of our New Zealand time. The hours with these families -- generous hosts, good cooks, with wry humor and musical talent -- will stay with us forever. OUR FIRST guide, Denise, exhibited a warm humor and sly wit that we found typical of the Maori people. Dressed in a beautiful fur robe -- which some day will go to the next world with a revered ancestor -- Denise told us of her people's evolution, and the most devastating thing the Europeans brought to an ancient culture. "The musket," said Denise, "changed everything." For while Europeans brought pigs, potatoes and other welcome critters and crops, they also brought unwelcome muskets and disease. After a presentation which earned school credit, Maori students say farewell  to their guests with a handshake followed by forehead and nose touching.  More than 20,000 Maori were killed during the explorations and whaling excursions of the English and French explorers from 1769 to 1840. The "Musket Wars" and disease killed more than 20 per cent of the Maori population. But things are looking up for this ancient culture.  NEXT UP  at www.whereiscookie:  Cookie gets a New Zealand tattoo, visits a world class Maori museum and a Maori village and language station.  She and friends learn to say hello and good-bye with her forehead and nose. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com