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Our lovely Uruguayan guide, Paulo, takes a mate break at one of our stops. NATIONAL DRINK HAS ANCIENT HISTORY, GIVES JUST THE RIGHT BUZZ TO MILLIONS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The popularity of mate is evident on the streets and in shop windows, where mugs are sold as souvenirs.   YOU SEE the tell tale thermos everywhere.  In the bus, the taxi, the train, the airplane. Next to it, the mate cup, sometimes with a strainer, often with a straw for communal consumption. Yerba mate (pronounced mah-tay) is the national drink of Uruguay and a popular beverage in other parts of South America.  Most agree that Uruguay has the corner on "mate madness." For in Uruguay, it is as important as water or mother's milk. Mate is deeply engrained in the culture. This gives a close-up view of the mate leaves and the cup into which the hot water is poured. The straw is shared by the drinkers.   YERBE MATE, also known as mate, is an herbal tea, a traditional drink in Latin and South America. It's made by steeping dried leaves from the yerba mate plant in hot water. While most consumers prefer it hot, Yerba mate can also be served cold with ice and lemon, sometimes honey. Mate was first consumed by the indigenous Guaraní who live in what is now Paraguay, southeastern Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, and Uruguay.  It was also enjoyed by the Tupí people who lived in neighboring areas. We found mate mugs and thermoses   everywhere in Uruguayan shops.   SO FASCINATED were we by the phenomenon of mate that we interviewed tour guides, shop owners and other locals to gain a better understanding of the country's intense love affair with this seemingly addictive drink. The comments included the following: "It's part of our heritage. We do it as a social thing, when we meet and old friend or family member." "It's how we start the day.  We drink it all day, until late afternoon.  Then we taper off because it can keep a person awake." "It's better than food for me.  I fill my thermos in the morning and drink mate all day while directing tours on the bus. I don't need to eat until evening." "I need mate to keep me going.  I keep the cup by my bed so all I have to do in the morning is go to the stove and heat the kettle." Mate by the sea, anyone? This mate mug and a thermos of hot water were our tour bus guide's. IT SEEMED to us that the people we watched over a period of hours were getting a bit "high" on the stuff.  Not slurring their words or acting silly, as people sometimes do under the influence of alcohol.  No, this "buzz" was similar to the coffee buzz I get from too much java. (My husband says, "You don't need coffee.  You ARE coffee." Perhaps he's right.) WHATEVER THE reason, mate has a huge following, mostly in Uruguay, but also in more rural parts of Argentina, where it is equally revered and widely used and enjoyed. Statistics show that mate users drink as much as three liters a day -- an amazing amount.  And while Uruguayans consume more mate per person than in any other country, Argentina is the largest producer of mate.  Uruguayans insist their mate is more pure, and claim they make it into a finer powder, free of stems.  The competition over mate may be somewhat like the friendly tango war over which country invented it. A young man fills his mate cup from the ever present thermos, at a picnic area. On a healthy note:  the antioxidants in yerba mate protect against heart disease. Remember that green tea, which is rich in antioxidants, can't even do this, and coffee is often linked to heart disease. This benefit of heart health is unique to yerba mate, fans claim. Depending on how much you consume, our guide said, "It can feel very trippy. The caffeine in it can really give you a buzz....." Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and host Orlando Ossowski in the grand Teatro Colon. It is a Buenos Aires treasure, considered the finest in the world for its fabulous acoustics. UP NEXT: Opera at its finest is heard on many of the world's great stages. Opera aficionados insist, however, that one opera house in the world soars above all others for its acoustic excellence. It is Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires, a national treasure. Remember to explore, learn and live and check out our weekly adventures at www.whereiscookie.com

Above, Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Rolando Ossowski pose in casual afternoon touring clothes. If they were at the great theater for a night at the opera, they would be in black tie, befitting a world class opera house. Teatro Colón: grand reminder of city's stately, opulent past BUENOS AIRES OPERA HOUSE: SHINING STAR WITH GRANDEUR, HISTORY AS WORLD'S BEST  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT'S HOSTED  the greats of the world of opera. Its acoustics are the best on the planet. The majestic Teatro Colon holds a sentimental place in the hearts of the people of Buenos Aires, and opera buffs around the world. The Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires has breathtaking design, box seats, a horseshoe shaped house and special seats. THE IMPOSING  opera house in Argentina's capital city, is considered by many to be the world's grandest opera house not only for its fabulous acoustics but for the spectacle and grandeur of its interior. A guide offers visitors a unique small-group tour of the opera house, with its stunning works of art, all beautifully preserved. We toured this wondrous place with our friend, Rolando Ossowski, an opera devotee who grew up in Buenos Aires and attended performances. He arranged a rewarding visit to magnificent place, adding colorful detail to the guide's commentary as we learned of the theater's interesting and complicated history. It dates back more than a century, to a grander time. Entering this grandiose space, we were in awe of its European-style décor. Our guide walked us up the Italian-marble staircases, past stunning mosaics, beneath French stained glass and under a gleaming grand chandelier where we posed for photos. The theater's roster of performers features dozens of world-class artists, including Richard Strauss, Igor Stravinsky, Plácido Domingo, Enrico Caruso, Claudia Muzio, Maria Callas, Regine Crespin, Birgit Nilsson and the great tenor Luciano Pavarotti. THE ORIGINAL  Teatro Colón operated from 1857 to1888 before being demolished as the city outgrew it. The new theater was designed by Francesco Tamburini with plans for a gala opening in 1892. But misfortune and controversy plagued the project. Tamburini died.  So did the next architect. Rolando added that tastes changed and money ran out. Eventually, the present theater opened on May 25, 1908, with Giuseppe Verdi's "Aïda." It was closed for restoration in 2006, reopening in 2010 to celebrate its 102nd birthday and Argentina's bicentennial. Our small tour group was in awe during a delightful tour of one of the world's most famous and grandest opera houses.  Meticulous detail at every turn awaits the tourist. WE WERE  determined to include the opera house in our Buenos Aires visit, even though there is an enormous amount of other things to do and places to visit.  For us -- lifelong music fans -- our time in Argentina’s capital city wouldn't have been complete without the afternoon we spent with Rolando in this historic building. Stained glass is  imported from Europe. Our opera buff friend Rolando concurred with the guide that the theater does indeed have the world's best acoustics. Pavarotti, a perennial favorite here, joked that "the theatre has the greatest defect: its acoustics are perfect," meaning that any small mistake -- a delayed delivery, faux pas with a lyric or,  heaven forbid, a worse mistake -- would be heard by the audience and likely reported by critics. IN OUR SMALL group, a professional singer surprised and delighted us all, offering a few measures of a familiar aria. Instant applause and tears. Indeed, grand acoustics. But the building's artistic value is of equal importance. Guided tours are kept small to give tourists an opportunity to enjoy, ask questions and soak up the beauty. Among details we noted:  *The central chandelier weighs over 100 kilos.  *Every piece of material for the theater's construction was imported from Europe. * The auditorium is horseshoe-shaped, has 2,487 seats (slightly more than the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, London). It's shape makes for fabulous sound. * Ticket prices offer "something for everyone," from standing room admission sold from $6 to $70 and more for better seats. * The stage is 20 meters wide, 15 meters high and 20 meters deep. * The combination of its perfectly engineered curves, and specially selected interiors create the remarkable acoustics.  Magnificently positioned on an entire city block, Teatro Colon is an imposing city landmark. Of special note are the horse-hair seat cushions, which are said to enhance sound as well. (Who knew?) More info : Guided tours in English cost 10,000 Argentine pesos (about $15)  daily at 11 a.m., noon and 3 p.m. Colón Theater is open every day of the year, except select holidays. Visit from February through December to catch one of the theater's spectacular ballets or operas. www.teatrocolon.org.ar/guided-tours/ The world's largest rotating tram gives tourists and locals alike a bird's eye   view of the spectacular wilderness of Chino Canyon and below, Palm Springs UP NEXT : As summer comes to the Coachella Valley, savvy tourists and locals alike take a trip up the mountain to the Palm Springs Aerial  Tramway. It is the largest rotating aerial tramway in the world and a huge tourist attraction in California. The tram and its construction in rugged terrain are an engineering marvel.  It opened in September 1963 as a way of getting from the floor of the Coachella Valley to near the top of San Jacinto Peak and was constructed in the Chino Canyon wilderness, a refuge for birds and wildlife and popular with naturalists. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, performance, family and more. Please share the link:  www.whereiscookie.com

A short pleasant walk from the hop on bus takes visitors to Museo Evita. It's also an easy taxi ride from most of the centrally located hotels.    MUSEUM HONORS LEGACY OF ICONIC FIRST LADY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER STEPPING INTO the Evita Museum in Buenos Aires is a walk back in time to the days of glory for the woman whose life took on legendary proportions in Argentina.  Known simply as "Museo Evita," the museum is in a building built in the early 20th century, designed as the home of a wealthy family. Before its incarnation as a museum, it housed administrative offices and earlier,  a shelter run by the internationally known personality who rose to fame and power although not elected to high office. EVA DUARTE  Peron's foundation acquired the stately home in 1948 to help needy women from all over Argentina. Social workers addressed their health and housing problems and proposed solutions. The museum's gift shop offers mementos and books, photographs and postcards of Evita's life. EVA DIED in 1952 and after the Peron government was overthrown in 1955, the home served as an administrative venue. In 1999, it was transferred to the Eva Peron National Institute for Historical Research. The museum opened in 2002 for the 50th anniversary of Eva Peron's death. On a lovely spring day, we stepped inside the fascinating museum with Peron fans and curious tourists from all corners of the world. Many weren't born during Eva's lifetime, but knew the "Evita" story. EVA DUARTE rose form the ranks of a humble rural family in the village of Los Toldos. She was born May 7, 1919, in a single-story brick house in the agricultural town 180 miles from the Argentine capital. With a gift for performance, she took her dreams of becoming an actor to Buenos Aires, and was playing bit parts when Argentina's Juan Domingo Perón,  met her. She caught his eye; the attraction was mutual. We enjoyed photos of them and displays of stunning dresses she wore at functions in Buenos Aires. The museum also features photos from her 1947 European tour, when she made headlines charming international leaders and even had an audience with Pope Pius XII. Eva Peron and President Juan Peron were married in 1945. Historian Santiago Regolo offers insight into the popularity of Eva Peron, known as Evita. Social justice was her platform. DESIGNER DRESSES of silk and taffeta are displayed with objects and mementos that belonged to Evita. Interactive exhibits focus on turning points in her life, including her career as an actress, her campaigning trips to elect Perón,  her devoted political and social work, her illness, death and funeral. Photos and films show her speaking to enthralled crowds, and offer insight into her massive appeal during Argentina's turbulent times of the 1940s and 1950s. Evita gave downtrodden people hope. ARTISTIC CURATORS have woven contemporary objects into the museum's mix for a fascinating glimpse of Evita, her husband and the changing landscape of the country. After meeting then Colonel Perón in 1944 during a charity event at Luna Park Stadium, she became a tireless advocate for the poor.  That event benefited victims of an earthquake. The people she helped remembered her and voted for her husband. She was the first First Lady to actively campaign and beat the drum for her spouse. Eva and Juan Peron at their country home. THE BUILDING'S history begins with its tenure as a private home. The Perons acquired Casa Carabassa because of a mutual attraction to its French and Italian touches. To Eva, these flourishes suggested a boutique hotel. The Carabassa family had purchased it in 1923, adding their touches before it came to the attention of the Perons in 1948. After its tenure as a refuge for women, it evolved into today's unusual museum, which includes a room used by school children in an educational program. Their artwork leads to a pleasant café which offers both indoor and outdoor seating, a restful space to contemplate Eva Peron, surrounded by beautiful, mature trees, the song of birds and views of lovely gardens A wealthy patrician family designed the elegant home, now museum, more than 100 years ago. The Peron family is still controversial in the country.  Some consider his rule to have been a dictatorship run by self-serving egotists. But Perón followers including historian and professor Santiago Regolo praise the couple's efforts to eliminate poverty and dignify labor.  One wonders: Were they inspired, generous leaders passionate for the poor, or the  demagogues their detractors claim them to be? Perhaps a bit of both. Beautiful tiles, marble and iron can be seen throughout the museum. BUT THE popularity of Evita cannot be denied.  According to professor Regolo, "The Peróns gave their name to the political movement known as Peronism, which in present-day Argentina is represented mainly by the Justicialist Party. Eva's legacy lives on." The party personifies populism in the form of a strong charismatic leader, Regolo said. Argentina's present leader is not a follower of this movement. Eva Peron, known to the people as "Evita," was a model and actress before rising to fame as First Lady. EVA -- KNOWN as "Evita" -- has had a rebirth in popular culture and is known worldwide through the Andrew Lloyd Webber musical. The Tony winning play and subsequent movie trace her immense popularity,  particularly with working-class women.  The intensity of the support she drew from the people is said to have surprised even Juan Perón himself, Regolo said.  She used her power with lower economic classes to helped enact reforms and policies, and give women a footing they had not had in Argentina. She also helped bring about the passage of Argentina's women's suffrage law, Regolo added.  Peron's first wife died of cancer, as did Evita.  He married a third time nine years after Evita's death in 1952.    Museo Evita is well worth a visit whatever your politics, for insight into the life of a remarkable personality. More information and tickets: museoevita.org.ar   Enjoying a morning at a Buenos Aires landmark, La Confiteria Ideal, dating to 1912, are from left, Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Rolando Ossowski. The cafe's remarkable history includes notoriety as a tango performance spac e.   . UP NEXT: Walk around the blocks with us in Buenos Aires. Come with us for a spectacular guided tour by a native son, Orlando Ossowski, whose knowledge of the city of his birth is extraordinary and detailed.  We'll wander through Buenos Aires with economist, opera aficionado, gourmand and history buff Rollando, visiting his favorite haunts including famous hotels, restaurants, government houses and a beloved bakery and restaurant, the elegant and historic Confiteria La Ideal. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, performance, family and more:   www.whereiscookie.com

Buenos Aires is known for its savory red wine, sultry tango halls and succulent steaks, and we found them all with a spirited local. He took us to hidden gems throughout the capital of Argentina, including a visit to El Mirasol (sunflower or sun watcher). This famed steakhouse is a favorite with locals and a delight for tourists who have the advantage of a native son's expertise to tour the city.  Keller, left, and our friend and exemplary guide, Rolando, right, pose with statues of famed writers Borges and Bioy at  La Biela, a famed Buenos Aires eatery. SEEING BUENOS AIRES WITH A LOCAL BEATS ANY OTHER TOUR FOR COLOR, CHARM, SHEER FUN, INFORMATION TRY THE FRIENDLY SKIESOF UNITED FOR A GREAT CONNECTION In early morning, cafe tables await customers who will fill  the tables by late morning.  People watching and lingering over a coffee are favorite rituals in Buenos Aires.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A GUIDED TOUR  of any city is best when arranged by a local. We were lucky in Buenos Aires, to get beyond the best known spots and into the real heart of the city. So we had the good fortune of enjoying the expertise and guidance of financial wizard and Buenos Aires native son Rolando on our recent tour of this fascinating city. Sure, we also sampled succulent steakhouses, savory red wine and sultry tango halls. But we welcomed the opportunity to tour with Rolando, reveling in his knowledge, insights and anecdotes of lesser known haunts. ROLANDO'S PASSION  for his native city is unmatched by that of any guide we've encountered.   Keller, Cookie and Rolando at Colon, the city's beautiful and famous opera house. He is a man of fine taste.  He is a gourmand, coffee aficionado, opera buff, lover of palaces and warm pastry, fan of chocolate and crema de leche. And, perhaps a minor inconsistency, Coca Cola. He is devoted to literature and architecture, and enhanced our time with charming stories of artists, builders, poets and writers who share his love of one of the world's great cities.    La Confiteria Ideal is famous for its beautifully presented pastries, elegant coffees and teas. The two-story building has hosted presidents, celebrities and is a favorite stop.  BUENOS AIRES is known for its remarkable architecture, wonderful parks, top quality restaurants, and world renowned museums and concert halls, including one place you can’t miss: the Colón Theater, the city’s fantastic Opera House. We toured it thanks to Rolando, who booked us for a fascinating afternoon there.  (We wrote about this grand concert hall separately.) Step inside a world class opera house At La Biela, writers Borges and Bioy greet people from the table where they sat to discuss their writing projects. The sculptures immortalize  the famed collaborators at their favorite table. . ROLANDO IS comfortable in jeans and a t-shirt, but he dresses up for world conferences and spent much of his career in suits. He served as the Assistant Director at the International Monetary Fund from 2003-2009 and still consults with high-level officials, in demand as a financial consultant. In world capitals he shares his extensive experience in public policy, research and publication, and discovers eateries and museums to integrate into his impressive "visitor's vocabulary."  Our local guide Rolando took us to charming little places down alleys and corridors, where people sit and enjoy. OUR FRIEND'S  private life is more casual, whether in his Washington, D.C. apartment, or his Buenos Aires apartment.  In D.C., he might take a break from a Zoom video meeting to share a coffee with his neighbor, my longtime friend and colleague, writer Cathy Healy. In Buenos Aires, he took time off from meetings to tour us through the heart of the city he loves. His Recoleta neighborhood is pleasant walking distance or a short taxi ride to most of the city's grandest sights and historical buildings, including a cemetery where  Evita lies in a heavily fortified crypt  five meters underground, to protect her remains. The cemetery is worth a visit for its grandiose array of peculiarities.  Rolando grew up in Buenos Aires, with his European parents who fled Poland before Rolando was born. They brought their distinguished tastes in art, music and culinary finery to their new home in South America. ROLANDO, naturally, grew up with refinement, surrounded by opera, art and fine food.  He knows all the city's historic concert venues and cafés, which are part of the soul of Argentina's capital and deeply imbedded in Rolando's soul as well.  The eateries were and are still frequented by artistic bohemians and celebrated writers. Some of Rolando's favorites are mentioned in guidebooks.     Known for its prosciutto, pasta and desserts is La Parolaccia, where we went for an elegantly served early dinner with Rolando. WE DELIGHTED in discovering Confiteria La Ideal, an historic landmark and one of Rolando's favorite places.  It houses a dramatic stage area with a vintage piano, an old-fashioned elevator, and elegant tables where sumptuous desserts, cocktails and specialty items are served. The French Fleur de Lys is  the enigmatic emblem of Confiteria Ideal. This classic 1912 French- inspired building was closed six years to restore its elegant original beauty.  It once was a favorite of tango dancers, too. This city  claims to have invented the sultry dance known for its rhythmic  accompaniment and tricky, sensuous footwork. THEN ON TO LA BIELA, the oldest restaurant in town. Opened in 1848, it has witnessed the transformation of Rolando's beloved Recoleta neighborhood.  Famed personalities Adolfo Bioy Casares and Jorge Luis Borges met often here in the northern part of the city, by the Rio de la Plata.  The area was transformed from fertile farmland to upscale eateries, shops and that famed aforementioned cemetery where  Peron and other notables are buried. We hobnobbed with locals who, like writers Borges and Bioy, frequent the cafe to discuss art, literary endeavors and politics. The two famous writers are immortalized in sculpture at the table where they always sat. It remains now and forever "their" table. Woman's Bridge behind Keller, Cookie and Rolando, capping an evening in Buenos Aires with a stroll on the waterfront.  Elegant service is a tradition at La  Parolaccia, where the city's best prosciutto is served. AFTER A HECTIC  day with our enthusiastic local guide and with an early flight the next morning, we arrived   early to dine at La Parolaccia. We were practically alone at 7:30 p.m. because most Argentines don't enjoy their evening meal until 9 p.m., 10 p.m., or even 11 p.m. We had fabulous service at this traditional Italian restaurant where Rolando and his late parents often dined, savoring the prosciutto which is said to be the best in town. We capped the evening with a stroll to the Puente de la Mujer -- "Woman's Bridge"-- a rotating footbridge for a busy dock in the city's Puerto Madero commercial district, a pleasant stroll from our hotel.  Thank you, Rolando, for enhancing our visit beyond measure. If you ever forfeit your day job, a tour guide spot awaits you. And we recommend United Airlines for a variety of connections to Buenos Aires. We flew from San Diego to B.A. at noon with a pleasant layover in Houston, just enough time to grab a meal, catch up on correspondence and get to the international gate.  We'd arrived just after 9 a.m., and arranged early check-in at our hotel. A nap and off for adventures. Perfect. More info: united.com tripadvisor.com laparollacia.com laideal.ar teatrocolon.org.ar/guided-tours/     Poipu's beautiful green turtles, or "hono" are protected, and a heavy fine understandably awaits for touching them. UP NEXT: Turtles of Poipu greet us. These graceful sea turtles, or “honu” to the locals, top most travelers’ wish lists of wildlife to see in Kauai. Long considered symbols of good luck, the creatures’ kind faces and trudging gait are endearing. We watched them swim for a week, marveling at their will and endurance. The odds for a Poipu turtle to reach adulthood are slim. A newly hatched sea turtle is popular with predators as it makes its way slowly from its sandy nest to the sea. Then if they make it, hatchlings are a favorite snack of bigger creatures, and only one in 1,000 eggs survive to adulthood. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com and please share the link.

The graceful sea turtles of Kauai are protected under the Endangered Species Act.  It is a crime to endanger them. COME WITH US TO WATCH THE MAGICAL SEA CREATURES OF KAUAI, BIG ISLAND STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bottlenose dolphins are stars at Hilton Waikoloa Resort,  where visitors can swim with the dolphins in strict  supervision by educated environmentalists and trainers.  DOLPHINS AND TURTLES  are primary tourist attractions in Hawaii. They have a magical aura and delight visitors of all ages, from all over the world. We found both in abundance on our most recent trip. We discovered our mutual fascination with sea creatures when we began traveling together nearly 18 years ago. Both of us had admired them for decades before so we strengthen this bond in travel each year. Although both sea turtles and dolphins can be spotted on other Hawaiian islands, today's piece focuses on sea life of Kauai and the "Big Island" of Hawaii. These waters off the coast of Kauai attract sea turtles, dolphins and whales. There are strict rules protecting wildlife. SEA TURTLES or “honu” -- pronounced hoh-noo -- top most travelers’ wish lists of wildlife viewing in Kauai. Long considered symbols of good luck, the creatures’ kind faces and trudging gait are endearing. Watching them is pure joy. On the Big Island, spinner dolphins are the ones we see most in the wild. There are hundreds of them -- perhaps thousands -- up and down the Kona Coast. In our encounters on Body Glove's fun tours, we've watched these playful creatures in pods of five and six, up to 30 and more. We watched this green sea turtle swim under one of the bridges at Waikoloa Village.   At Hilton's Waikoloa Resort north of Kona village, we never tire of watching the graceful bottlenose dolphins and we've twice booked encounters with them through Dolphin Quest Hawaii. It opened in 1988 as the first of its kind to provide a natural sandy beached tidal lagoon filled with filtered sea water for resident bottlenose dolphins. It's possible to swim with them here in a strictly supervised and diligently tended environment. WATCHING dolphins and turtles never ceases to amaze. Dolphins are playful and smart and have been known to protect humans in shark invested waters. These affectionate creatures seem to enjoy human contact and being observed. Turtles are more elusive, and have slimmer odds of survival, which makes them all the more precious. The one highly supervised place dolphins can be gently touched is at Hilton Waikoloa Village on the Big Island. Here, Amarylla and Steve Ganner, Peny and James join their auntie and uncle, Cookie and Keller.  Newly hatched turtles try to elude predators as they scramble from their sandy nests to the relative safety of the water. A few make it in one of nature's most harrowing stories. If they make it to the sea, hatchlings are a favorite snack of larger creatures. Only one in  1,000 eggs survives to adulthood.   Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers had the rare opportunity to swim with dolphins at Dolphin Quest at Hilton Waikoloa Village. HAWAII'S TURTLES are protected under the Endangered Species Act as well as by the state of Hawaii. Dolphins are, too. It is illegal to pursue wild dolphins in Hawaii as well as any place in any waters within United States jurisdiction. Legally, one must go in the water and let the dolphins come. Boat tours that promise swimming with dolphins can risk a stiff fine of $10,000 if they are caught encouraging this activity, so make sure you are touring with a reputable company. The key is to watch them and hope they approach you. Do not try to swim to these beautiful creatures. For turtle viewing, it is best to visit their areas around sunset and stay through the evening. Poipu Beach State Park is a popular place where we've seen many, walking right from our Point at Poipu room.  The sea turtles at Poipu Beach State Park can be enjoyed, photographed, but never touched. We saw the most turtles at the end of the day. Years ago, we stayed up later and saw them come ashore after dark to sleep. Dolphins swim in pods off the Kona coast. Many snorkeling tours allow visitors to swim in areas frequented by dolphins; let the dolphins approach.   We found lovely turtle viewing spots just a short hike from our Point at Poipu room, on the scenic southernmost tip of Kauai. When you spot honus, the rules are: stay at least 10 feet away. Never harass, feed, chase, ride, handle, injure or hunt them. Holding the animals in captivity is prohibited under federal and state laws. Violators can be fined up to $100,000 and even imprisoned. And   if you find yourself in the water with spinner dolphins, be aware that the Marine Mammals Protection Act prohibits people from chasing, feeding or touching marine mammals in the wild. Resist the temptation to pursue dolphins, rather, allow them to swim to you. Thrilling to see turtles on Poipu Beach, Kauai. We like Hilton Garden Inn for its proximity. Swimming with dolphins: click here http://www.whereiscookie.com/2022/01/swimming-with-dolphins-treat-to-cement.html SEA TURTLES and dolphins made the Hawaiian islands their home long before people did, but counts of both have dropped. Honu were officially placed on the endangered species list in 1978 and are strictly protected. Dolphins are threatened by fishing, toxoplasmosis (a parasitic infection) and other diseases. Other threats to the dolphin population worldwide are oil and gas exploration, boat strikes, mining, tourism and noise. WE TRAVEL with courtesy toward all fellow inhabitants of our planet. Show animals on land and sea respect. Watch them, but please don't approach them. For more information or   to book a stay or activity for Hawaii and fun family wildlife viewing:   www.hawaiiactivities.com (for Dolphin Quest bookings and dolphin shows and encounters at Hilton Waikoloa Resort) www.hilton.com www.bodyglove.com (snorkeling, dolphins, dinner and sunset cruise tours) www.poipubeach.org (for info on the park) hawaiitours.com (tours on all the islands) www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/kona-village   In May 2017, Christene "Cookie" Meyers wheels   Bruce Keller from the ICU at Scripps Green Hospital Transplant Division, two days after transplantation. UP NEXT: We are celebrating.  Please join our joy as we mark our seventh anniversary post transplant.  Thanks to a generous donor, and a crack medical team at Scripps in San Diego headed by a Columbia University Medical College ace, Bruce William Keller is on the high seas today -- not in an urn or cemetery plot.  We tell the story of our trials to work up the transplant list and into health after a long undiagnosed case of hepatitis C nearly sidelined him for good. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, celebrating each day.  Catch us each week for a fresh spin on health, nature, travel, family, the arts and more, at whereiscookie.com

DOGS AND CATS CROSS THE POND IN COMFORT WITH A CERTIFICATE TO PROVE THAT EVERY PET IS A TRUE SAILOR  Owners are welcome to visit their pets, and take them to a quiet corner on Deck 12, where both inside and outside spaces are reserved for pets. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A DOG'S LIFE is a good life aboard Cunard Line's Queen Mary 2. With 24 cozy kennels and a full-time kennel master to look after their every need, canine and feline passengers travel as comfortably as their human counterparts. They have treats and walks, comfy beds, toys and individual menus catered to each dog's needs.  So they dine like lords and ladies aboard this beautiful ship, the only one that accepts dogs other than service animals. For many pet owners, it's the preferred way to cross the Atlantic. The leisurely one-week crossing allows both pet and "parents" to enjoy a slow transition to another continent, without being subjected to jet lag or, in a pet's case, the hold of an airplane. Porters clad in the traditional Cunard uniform gladly walk dogs or owners can do it themselves.   WE SPENT a delightful morning with QM kennel master Oliver Cruz, who had his hands full with 20 dogs and two cats on our recent westbound crossing from Southampton. He greeted us on deck 12, where a large, pristine space is dedicated to four-legged passengers and their owners. The pleasant, spotless area has both inside and outside spaces. Pet owners can visit and walk their fur babies, assist in feeding them if they like and take them into the sunshine for one-on-one time, while they read, soak up the sun or check messages. At appointed times, other passengers can come take a peek, too. Years ago, I wrote a story on the Queen Elizabeth 2's kennels, which were seldom advertised and always booked well in advance. The space featured a miniature Hyde Park, with a faux tree and fire hydrant.  QM2 has a red hydrant as well. Dog lover and QM2 kennel master Oliver Cruz, is hands on in daily interaction with each canine passenger. They are carefully tended. Queen Mary's kennels are popular. Cruz said. "Some people book a year or more in advance, and we recommend that," he added. Kennel slots fill up quickly -- even before the ship's coveted suites. WHO TAKES his dog on a ship? Plenty of people,  Cruz said. "People moving from one country to the other like the ease and comfort of taking a beloved pet on a ship," he said. That enhances the owner's journey and assures the pet isn't traumatized by the uncertainties of air travel. Other travelers simply want to have their pet with them while traveling. ONE CHICAGO couple, Callie and Ryan Regan, love the experience and say they wouldn't take their treasured doggie Remly across the pond any other way. "We took him on Queen Mary a year ago when we left the states for a job in England," Ryan said. "He was so spoiled after that he wouldn't eat his regular food for a couple days." Cookie and Keller on the top deck, after a  visit with dog owners and the kennel master. Now, returning to the U.S., Remly adjusted easily to the ship, they said. He enjoys his spacious kennel, comfy bed and kibble laced with pieces of steak. Cruz added that pet owners can organize their dog's food and can even provide their own if they like. He and his assistant accommodate special needs -- vitamins, etc. -- and monitor pets' "doggy do" to check for any signs that the pet is not well. "So owners don't pick up after their pups," he said. "We do that." AMONG PAMPERED  four-legged passengers were a border collie, an American bull dog, a German shepherd, a Jack Russell terrier, a springer spaniel, a long-haired chihuahua and two contented cats, minority among the 19 dog breeds on board. Pets are accepted on all Transatlantic crossings, except the first and last crossings of the year. Availability is limited, so pet owners are advised to book well in advance. The cost of transportation will be given at the time of booking, but will likely range between $800 and $1,000 USD. Pet owners must supply up to date vaccinations and records to prove their dogs and cats are healthy. Forms are provided by Cunard. PHILIPINO BORN  Cruz has been QM2's kennel master for 14 years, and is a lifelong animal lover with 10 cats, 8 dogs, turtles, fish and other members of the menagerie. Kennel master Oliver Cruz presents a  "crossing certificate" for each pet. His children include son Christian, who is grooming to replace Cruz when he retires "way down the road." More info or to book a cruise for you or your pet: www.cunard.com Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers cross the Atlantic from Florida, on board Norwegian Cruise Line's Getaway. The veteran cruisers enjoy this mode of travel and will tout its benefits and advantages next week. UP NEXT:  We're singing the praises of travel for the next few weeks. Highlights of favorite trips will give tips and encourage readers to book that longed for  trip, arrange the cruise or camping trip, take that drive to the cousins you've long wanted to see. Our credo is "enjoy the summer," remembering that time is fleeting for us all.  "Carpe diem" is our byword as we explore the glories of travel, exploring the Caribbean and Mediterranean, and enjoying an Atlantic crossing on the world's most famous authentic ocean liner, Queen Mary 2.

Grand Teton National Park, above, is in glorious color as the Memorial Day weekend arrives, noting the unofficial beginning of summer in the country's national parks. IN OUR BACK YARD,  GRAND TETON AND YELLOWSTONE PREPARE FOR SUMMER VISITORS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Above right, Bison sightings are a common occurrence in Yellowstone. It's best to drive slowly and not stop. Traffic jams are part of the park experience. Above, well marked rest areas and viewing areas are part of the learning at our national parks, with plenty of information to be gleaned by stopping.  THE SMELL of sulfur and wisps of steam signal that hot pots and geysers are near.  The odor assails the nostrils, all part of the Yellowstone experience. You'll encounter this "boiled egg" scent without leaving your car. Some find it obnoxious.  I find it comforting. It's part of my childhood.  And after all, Yellowstone's geysers formed after the last glaciers scoured the land surface at least 15,000 years ago. So we show proper respect! We love our national parks and are fortunate to have two within a day's drive -- Yellowstone and Grand Teton.  It takes us a bit longer to reach Glacier National Park, from our base in south-central Montana.  But the drive north is also a delightful pilgrimage and we make as often as possible. Bison and steaming geysers catch the eye in Yellowstone. IN YELLOWSTONE , we always hike to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, as viewed from the Lower Falls.  The craggy canyons, gushing waterfalls and towering mountains are a spectacle that never ceases to amaze. The 3,500 square-mile wonder is mostly in Wyoming, but we Montanans claim Yellowstone, too, since three of the five entrances are in our state. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy an early spring hike in the Tetons. The park also spreads into Idaho, near West Yellowstone. "Our park" features dramatic canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers, including its most famous, Old Faithful. It's also home to hundreds of animal species, including the ones we saw last week. We've found through the years that our autumn treks are perfectly timed. With thinning crowds and colorful foliage, fall is a spectacular time to visit Yellowstone.  Many of the park’s iconic animals are more visible in spring and autumn, when cooler temperatures prompt them to move about more. Summer's heat encourages staying put. DAWN AND DUSK  are the best times for spotting wildlife, and with spring days growing longer one can get up as early and stay out late to take Bears are more elusive, but   can be seen. This grizzly bear was not far from the East Entrance. advantage of prime viewing times. We witnessed several careless activities with wildlife: one family attempting to photograph a child in the same frame as a bison. Bad idea. Rangers advise maintaining a distance of at least 100 yards from bears and wolves and at least 25 yards from all other wildlife. Remember, too, that they are on the move to lower elevations as winter draws nearer. Fir trees welcome spring and flowers  begin to bud, as runoff from winter snow fills lakes and rivers. IF YOU'RE  looking for lodging, know that guest facilities and services gradually book months in advance and begin to close in the fall. Prices also drop a bit in autumn, and there are appealing fall lodging packages. Check the park’s website for the availability.  Check weather and road updates when you're in the park.  Some services and activities in the parks require reservations.  Do some homework to save time and frustration while there. MORE INFORMATION: www.nps.gov nationalparkreservations.com yellowstonenationalparklodges.com glaciernationalparklodges.com recreation.gov (for camping, vehicle permits, cabins, rvs, passes and more specifics.) Here, Ryan and Callie Regan of Chicago give Remly a cuddle as they spend time with him on a recent crossing aboard Queen Mary 2. UP NEXT: Everyone knows the appeal cruising has to millions of people.  But did you know that dogs and cats can cross the ocean in style on the world's most famous ocean liner, Queen Mary 2? Pampered pooches and cats, too, travel regularly between New York and Southampton, England, lovingly cared for by a devoted kennel master.   More on how to book passage for your pup or cat, and what to expect to pay for the mobile pampering. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Concert goers head to Domo, for a concert by world class musicians last year. This year's season also features a brief array of sold-out concerts. There are other ways to experience the internationally known arts, nature and music venue near Fishtail, Montana. ARTS VENUE FEATURES GEOLOGY TOUR, BIKING, HIKING AND FABULOUS CONCERTS -- SOLD OUT ALREADY--BUT YOU CAN STILL ENJOY THE PLACE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Expert piano tuner Michael Toia keeps the many valuable pianos at Tippet Rise in tune each season. The collection was assembled by Peter Halstead and is worth millions. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU  are anywhere near Montana or Yellowstone Park this summer, you are within reasonable driving distance to the wonders of Tippet Rise Arts Center near Fishtail. This unique and beautiful place offers multiple pleasures, from stunning artwork to fascinating geology tours, coveted concerts and more. All in the serene setting of cottonwood trees and birdsong. "Inverted Portal" by Ensamble Studio, welcomes visitors to walk around or through its vast expanses.  SO DON'T  despair if you didn't get concert tickets. (Most of us didn't.)  Drawings for tickets to the small, acoustically perfect venue were in March so the drawing is long over. Do check the website weekly to see if something becomes available, which it occasionally does. MEANWHILE,  you can still bike or hike this gorgeous area. A youngster enjoys ice cream at Tippet Rise opening last week. During visits and the concert season, you can bring a picnic or purchase food from Prerogative Kitchen, a much loved dining enterprise and two-time semi-finalist for the James Beard Awards. Guests are welcome to bring their own provisions to enjoy out on the trails, or within the main Cottonwood Campus. Developed as a venue for art and music in the backdrop of nature, by founders Cathy and Peter Halstead, Tippet Rise blends world class musical performances with sculpture. The first thing you see is a stunning sculpture by famed artist Alexander Calder. His "Two Discs" sets the scene for. more delights, including Calder's "Stainless Stealer," also on loan to Tippet Rise from the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden at the Smithsonian Institution’s museum of international modern and contemporary art, in Washington, D.C. School buses take participants around to Domo and other pieces too far to walk comfortably to. Go to the website for more on hiking, biking, and sculpture van tours, all designed by the heirs of a vodka fortune as unique ways to experience Tippet Rise. Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers last week at a  neighbors barbecue kicking off the new season. THIS YEAR,  the complex welcomes back the Yellowstone Bighorn Research Association (YBRA ) for the sixth annual Geo-Paleo Tours of Tippet Rise. We took one of these specialized tours last season and enjoyed learning about geological and paleontological features scattered across the art center. Tippet Rise is uniquely located -- poised at the convergence of two vastly different regions – the Beartooth Mountains and the Great Plains. Knowledgeable guides take tour participants in vans with short hikes to various phenomena. Tours  are three upcoming Thursdays – July 11, 18, and Aug. 1 – beginning at 9 a.m., and lasting under three hours.  SCULPTURE Van art tours are also available and we highly recommend!  Then the weekend of Aug. 3 – 4, Tippet Rise presents three separate events in collaboration with guests including poet Jenny Xie, photographer James Florio, and actor and professor Dr. Ben Leubner. Stephen Talasnik's "Satellite No. 5: Pioneer" incorporates space, and the artist's desire to show connection to land and our roots. THE WORKSHOPS  range from poetry to photography and  literature, and include films and discussions. Xie's is Aug. 3, from 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. The New York-based poet will lead a workshop on the ekphrastic poem—one provoked by a work of art.   Xie is at Tippet Rise for a weeklong residency. She is the author of "Eye Level," a finalist for the National Book Award and is recipient of the Walt Whitman Award of the Academy of American Poets. Patrick Dougherty's "Daydreams" enraptures visitors, with its artful curves and detail. Also Aug. 3, Tippet Rise’s longtime collaborator and artist-in-residence, photographer James Florio will present a screening of "James Florio at Tippet Rise," followed by a Q&A with the film’s director Jeffrey Peixoto. This 17-minute documentary follows James as he moves through the radical landscape of Tippet Rise, struggling against the elements to create images of expressive power. ON SUNDAY , Aug. 4, actor and MSU professor  Ben Leubner returns to Tippet Rise for a literature recital at 11 am. Outdoors at Xylem, Leubner will recite Elizabeth Bishop’s 1971 dramatic monologue “Crusoe in England,” followed by an excerpt from Virginia Woolf’s 1931 novel, "The Waves," moving to the Olivier Music Barn. Cookie & Keller in front of Stephen Talasnik's "Galaxy."  THE RANGE of artists includes well known names new to tippet rise as well as "regulars" such as pianists Julien Brocal, Marc-André Hamelin, Anne-Marie McDermott, and Yevgeny Sudbin, violinist Jennifer Frautschi, cellists Christopher Costanza, Sterling Elliott, Arlen Hlusko, and Nina Lee, and flutist Jessica Sindell. Baroque Music Montana and mezzo-soprano Ema Nikolovska, pianists Jean-Efflam Bavouzet, Kunal Lahiry, and Evren Ozel, and a host of top orchestral string, reed and horn players also make their debut. Reservations for all are available on Tippet Rise events page. Don't despair if what you'd like is sold out. Check for cancellations and try to book something else. Cancellation tickets for the sold-out concert are posted.    FOR BOOKINGS or information: tippetrise.org Always with a smile, and kindness for all, John Speight celebrated his March birthday with us more than once. UP NEXT:  Next week, before a celebration of his life, we salute a dear friend and fellow traveler who passed away after a heroic seven-month battle with cancer. John Speight was a Yorkshire  farmer, a devoted student of travel, a genial family man, prodigious reader -- especially of travel books and literature -- and a lifelong animal lover.  He raised many dogs and horses through his years, and had a gentle touch with all creatures. He will be deeply missed by us, his widow Sue, his children and legions of friends met on their international travels. More about John and our long friendship and adventures together.

Highlights of New York include a visit to Tower One, the Empire State Building, Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty, holding her torch high in this montage for the Fourth of July. SALUTING JULY 4  WITH A PHOTO ESSAY ON LADY LIBERTY, TOWER ONE AND ELLIS ISLAND IMMIGRATION MUSEUM Tower One in the World Trade Center viewed from the water near sunset,   shows the single tower standing where the Twin Towers once stood. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NO MONUMENT in the country better represents American independence than the Statue of Liberty. Did you know that the tablet she holds in her left hand is symbolic? On it, in Roman numerals, is inscribed: July 4, 1776. The statue -- a gift from the French people -- commemorates the alliance of France and the United States during the American Revolution. IN A VERY different way, the World Trade Center Memorial  represents unity, too.  Its striking architecture speaks to our desire for world peace and understanding. Its tranquil and stirring architectural theme make one ponder, remember and give thanks for all that is good about America. A TRIP TO New York is not complete without a visit to these places that symbolize life, talent, loss, endurance and values of the United States. Our visits often include a return to the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island Museum and One World Trade Center. Each one symbolizes America's resilience and endurance, its strength, universality and global reach. In trips since 9-11, we never fail to be moved by the beauty of One World Trade Center. Built in the grounds of the Twin Towers' destruction on that dark day 23 years ago, water creates a soothing ambience for visitors. Architect Michael Arad, describes his unique pools as  representing “absence made visible.” Although water flows into the voids, they can never be filled, he says. The sound of cascading water makes the pools a place of tranquility and contemplation away from the noise of a bustling city. We  linger with others to pay our respects to the victims.  representing “absence made visible.” Although water flows into the voids, they can never be filled, he says. The sound of cascading water makes the pools a place of tranquility and contemplation away from the noise of a bustling city. We  linger with others to pay our respects to the victims. The National Immigration Museum offers an insightful look at  the challenges and protocol of our ancestors' entry into the U.S.  THE WORLD Trade Center complex includes the National September 11 Memorial and Museum is both memorial and museum -- part of the World Trade Center complex -- created to remember the Sept. 11 attacks of 2001, which killed 2,977 people, The approach to the Statue of Liberty at dawn is a moving experience. YOU MIGHT find it too emotional to visit World Trade Center, Lady Liberty and the immigration museum on the same day. We broke it up, spending one day at the Trade Center and museum then buying a roundtrip ticket on the historic ferry to visit both Ellis Island and the Liberty Island, home of the Statue of Liberty. To get to either of the islands you need to purchase a ferry ticket. It will include stops at both Liberty Island for Lady Liberty, and Ellis Island National Museum of Immigration. THE MUSEUM is in the former immigration complex's Main Building. It is part of the Statue of Liberty National Monument, under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service. A piece of history itself, both memorial and museum. Visitors approach Ellis Island on Circle Line, with a CityPASS ticket that stops at the Statue of Liberty, too. Ferry stops between the two islands are staggered to give passengers time to take photos and visit both, returning at nicely spaced intervals for both brief and leisurely stays. SAILING TIME  to each island is about 15 minutes. If you take the ride only without visiting either monument, you'll be gone one hour and fifteen minutes. If you visit both islands, time depends on the length of each visit. Since we are all immigrants, we found Ellis Island an insightful look at the American dream. From the massive entrance hall, to the medical stations, video and digital exhibits, the experience is both interesting and emotional.  WE RECO bird's eye view of both Lady Liberty and the immigration museum MMEND CityPASS for your visit to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. You'll have a bird's eye view of both Lady Liberty and the immigration museum The 9/11 Memorial is a moving place to visit, where family and friends of those lost place flowers on etched names.  from a Circle Line tour, part of  CityPASS and its New York ticket book. A Circle Line ride is a fun money saving way to see highlights of one of the world's great cities, including Rockefeller Center and the Empire State Building, plus other world class museums and attractions. You can visit One World Trade Center and the 9/11 museum on your own, or book a guided tour. And don't forget the July 4 celebration on Washington, D.C., mall, broadcast live on PBS.     MORE INFORMATION: We recommend visiting the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island with CityPASS, which offers a Circle Line tour stopping at both historic place s. www.citypass.com Or go to : www.statueoflibertytickets.com    For tours of the 9/11 Memorial and tickets for the 9/11 Museum and One World Observatory.     www.911groundzero.com Casapueblo intrigues, looking like a Moorish village, but it's in South America, and awaits your visitation . UP NEXT: Come with us to  e xplore lesser known yet equally fascinating villages near Montevideo.  Although the country's capital is the largest and most visited city, it takes just two hours to drive the interesting road to artful Casapueblo in Punta Ballena, and sunny Punta del Este, worlds away from the busy city.  Casapueblo's museum, art colony and luxury hotel make fascinating touring. Nearby, an intriguing beach town awaits --  internationally famed for its shopping, glamorous nightlife, and dining for every budget.  There's plenty to do in Punta del Este while the sun shines and more when the sun sets. During the day, we found people dozing on the beach, browsing high-end shopping streets, visiting museums, and enjoying some of South America's finest restaurants. Meanwhile, explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh slant on travel, nature, the arts, family and more:   www.whereiscookie.com

ARTIST DREW HIS INSPIRATION FROM GREEK VILLAGE AND THE BIRD NESTS HE LOVED AND STUDIED STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Top photo: The colors and shapes of Casapueblo remind of Santorini, which inspired the architect. From the air, Casapueblo spreads out above the sea. Hotel rooms have ocean views and are not numbered.   PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AN ARTIST'S vision became his  fascinating summer home, now an international destination for those with a sense of adventure and a yearning for invention. Casapueblo looks like nothing else we've seen in several South American forays. Its winding cave-like corridors and white free form architecture remind more of the Greek Isles its designer loved.  If we didn't know better, we wouldn't believe we were in Uruguay, thousands of miles from Greece. Once inside, dozens of artifacts and artful lighting add a mysterious feeling.  It is an intriguing building complex constructed by the Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró.  An African ant hill he observed also inspired his magical creation. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers outside the museum at Casapueblo. HIS EXQUISITE use of materials mostly in white, seems both whimsical and "alive." It almost undulates in a soft breeze and is beautifully integrated with the landscape of this arid area. EVEN THOUGH the property is expansive, the stone carved buildings give the feeling of  "areas" -- comfortable, welcoming spaces. It is located in Punta Ballena, 13 kilometres from Punta del Este, where until Vilaro's death in 2013, it was his summer home and workshop. It now includes a museum, an art gallery, a cafeteria and an unusual hotel.. The museum showcases the artwork of  Vilaró, whose paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and tapestries offer visitors a glimpse into his extraordinary artistic journey. The museum at Casapueblo offers insight into the exciting life of Uruguayan artist Carlos Vilaro. Vilaró was inspired by the mud nests and houses of Santorini's Mediterranean coast when designing Casapueblo, a fairytale house and museum near Punta del Este. The nests, which are typical of Uruguay's hornero birds, have a side opening that resembles an oven's mouth. Vilaró described the style as anarchic and avoiding sharp lines. Carlos Vilaro was inspired by Santorini, and its whitewashed Mediterranean look.  He also loved bright colors.  LOCATED ON a high rocky point jutting over the sparkling water of Punta Ballena,  Casapueblo sits majestically as both a magical sculptured hotel and a museum. It is referred to as the “Greek island of Uruguay” or the “Santorini of Latin America.” The nicknames are apt because the structure’s Cycladic-inspired architecture enhances Punta Ballena’s sunset views to remind of the villages of Santorini which inspired Vilaro. He shared his passion with the world, christening it "house town" or "house of the people." The original white building constructed in 1958 is the centerpiece of the complex which also houses a tribute to Carlos Miguel, the artist's son. He was one of 16 survivors of flight 571, a Uruguayan Air Force plane which crashed in the Andes on Oct. 13, 1972. THOUSANDS OF  visitors come to enjoy the place every year. Hotel rooms don't have numbers. Each key has a unique tile design which matches corresponding tiles on the guest room door. Unique -- as was Vilaro. How to get there: Casapueblo is located in Punta Ballena, about nine miles (14.5 kilometers) west of Punta del Este,  a 15-minute drive. It's a bit over two hours from Montevideo. We highly recommend Pablo of Dream Tour Uruguay. www.dreamtour.com.uy / dreamtour.com.uy Montevideo's winding streets and beautiful gardens are complemented by historic buildings and classic architecture. UP NEXT:   Uruguay's capital city Montevideo beckons, then we visit historic Colonia and Punta del Este. While Uruguay is overshadowed on most tourists' lists by the flashier cities of Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires, Montevideo has its own charms and is home to nearly 1.5 million people -- a third of the country's population.  The city is an exciting place to spend a few days, with a fascinating past and many convenient side trips an hour or two away. The strategic placing of Montevideo gives it an interesting history, situated on the southern coast of the country, on the northeastern bank of the Río de la Plata. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

This group of students came to our aid when they saw us looking at our city map. This friendliness is typical of Uruguayan people, we found in our 10 days there. Montevideo is often overlooked in favor of larger, more visited South American cities. It has much to offer, though, including  stately architecture .  CAPITAL CITY CHARMS WITH POLITE PEOPLE, HISTORY, WIDE STREETS, AND RELAXED  QUALITY PARTLY DUE TO A POPULAR DRINK Top photo:Above, tasty chicken salad garnished with apples, walnuts, sesame seeds.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE MOST appealing aspect of Montevideo is the friendly, welcoming feeling one gets while strolling its streets, visiting a museum or enjoying a beverage. Perhaps it's the yerba mate, an herbal tea that nearly every Uruguayan drinks. Our splendid tour guide Pablo enjoys his mate during a break on a day trip. It's their equivalent of coffee, and imbibers believe it is both calming and "calmly energizing," as our guide Pablo told us. Mate contains adaptogens that help keep cortisol levels from rising too high. Its millions of consumers also believe it provides a gradual, smooth energy boost along with vitamins, minerals, and superfoods to encourage relaxation and immunity . Mate thermoses and cups adorn many shop windows.  The national drink is much enjoyed.   SO WE settled into the calming vibe in this lovely city, settled in  1724 by a Spanish soldier. As the capital of this small South American country, most Americans pass it by, in favor of the larger and glitzier Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro. Happily, we spent eight pleasant days in Montevideo, with side trips to nearby villages, and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Montevideo's laid-back atmosphere includes a lively café culture, and well-preserved old town in the Ciudad Vieja. We enjoyed strolling this area, which is receiving a wave of immigration primarily from its neighbors—Argentina and Brazil—but also from Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Venezuela. Our guide, in fact, was born in Cuba and came here with his Cuban wife and his mother-in-law.  All are assimilated in Montevideo and love it. Montevideo's streets are neat and welcoming, with pretty shops, art displays and usually few crowds.  We were up early for a peaceful walk. Carrasco International Airport is a pleasant contrast with other more hectic South American ones. Its family-friendly nature is typical of Uruguay. Free strollers were available for use within the airport. Family bathrooms and baby rooms for feeding and changing are plentiful and easy to access. Most everyone speaks English and young people are polite and friendly. We encountered a group of students who recommended a tango show and fun inexpensive restaurant. Museums and cultural centers/events offer free admission for kids under 12 and reasonable student rates.    Montevideo's imposing equine statue features the national hero of Uruguay, José Gervasio Artigas (1764–1850), who led the fight for independence  against Brazil and Portugal.   Life in Montevideo revolves around cafes, many spread out around the Plaza de la Independencia, once home to a Spanish citadel. This plaza leads to Ciudad Vieja with beautiful art deco buildings, colonial homes and landmarks including the towering Palacio Salvo and neoclassical performance hall Solís Theatre. Mercado del Puerto has trendy steakhouses, in a gentrified area of the old port market which celebrates its history. Shady, welcoming cafes, clean streets and attractive architecture mark  Montevideo, with many free offerings.  Montevideo and its rich cultural life offer the pleasures of a vibrant city such as Miami or Malaga. Both south Florida and the Costa del Sol came to mind during our time in Montevideo, which shares the same rich cultural and ethnic background as Miami in the U.S. and Malaga in Spain. More info: Dream Tour Uruguay and guide Pablo are highly recommended. Tours of Montevideo, Punta del Este and Colonia are all offered by Dream Tour Uruguay. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day in Colonia, with its historic architecture and charming shops. UP NEXT: While we're in Uruguay, we visit two very different cities: Punta del Este, with its lively beach culture, and the historic town of Colonia. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 on the Río de la Plata, and the city quickly came to be of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. We found Uruguay welcoming and clean, friendly and reasonably priced.  Its stable economy and kind and gracious people are appealing reasons to plan a trip.  It's also very family friendly. Children are welcome, and often invited free to museums and other venues. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, food, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

An historic wooden bridge and stone gate welcome visitors Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers to the old part of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay, A CONTRASTING PAIR: COLONIA, PUNTA DEL ESTE OFFER VARIETY, PLEASURES -- EACH WITH A UNIQUE FLAVOR  In contrast to Colonia, Punta del Este is modern with plenty of new construction, luxury beach condos and trendy cafes.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE   KELLER URUGUAY IS A   small country -- the second-smallest in South America -- nestled between Argentina and Brazil. It offers large hospitality, though. It's laid back, polite, historic and welcoming to tourists and families. We experienced sincere hospitality wherever we went, and enjoyed our time there immensely. Two day trips linger in our memory, to Colonia del Sacramento and Punta del Este. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers took time for a selfie as they approached Punta del Este, a popular beach resort. We recommend these stops and urge travelers to consider a visit to Uruguay. Despite its small size it offers diverse landscape -- more than 400 miles of shoreline, contrasting city and country experiences, noteworthy architecture, and a wealth of cultural and historical sites to explore. Here are highlights of the two cities:  Founded in 1680 by Portuguese soldiers, Colonia offers colorful history and a beautiful, well preserved bridge.  Captured by Spanish forces, it changed ownership several times. Both cultures are reflected in the food, art and architecture.   PUNTA  del Este has a more recent history, dating to the early 1800s, when a group of businessmen bought the peninsula to exploit it as a salting house. It reigned as Villa Ituzaingó until 1907, when it officially became Punta del Este.   "The Hand," or La Mano, in Punta del Este. a famous landmark. We were drawn to its famous landmark, a gigantic sculpture of fingers partially emerging from sand. We visited the sculpture with dozens of other tourists from all over the world.   Known as both "The Fingers" and "The Hand," La Mano is hard to miss.  The engaging sculpture by Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal depicts five human fingers partially emerging from sand, urging closer examination.   Bruce Keller poses by a canon on the defensive wall of Colonia. The town has changed hands many times since its settling by the Portuguese. From a tour bus, here's typical arid  landscape of Uruguay's countryside.  From a tour bus, here's typical arid  landscape of Uruguay's countryside.  The dramatic sculpture is a symbol for Punta del Este. Since its debut in 1982, it has become one of Uruguay's most recognizable landmarks offer color and are fun for foodies. Punta del Este is known for its relaxing beaches and shopping,  Colonia, a former Portuguese colony, has restaurants reflecting that heritage. Cod, olives and potatoes are plentiful. We asked for a hearty salad, though, and weren't disappointed. We enjoyed a meal on the tranquil river then strolled this old, stately town. Colonia's historic quarter is a World Heritage site. Modern Colonia del Sacramento boasts a free trade zone, textile manufacturing plants, a new  polytechnic center and contemporary government buildings.        Uruguayans love their meat, but we found lovely vegetables and salads, too, and a couple times opted for tasty vegetarian meals. PUNTA DEL  Este also has culinary appeal for its many fine restaurants. In fact, the Uruguayan delicacy of chivito was born here in Punta del Este. The story is that it was invented at the El Mejillón bar, where Antonio Carbonaro created this sandwich for a hungry diner who asked for a quick snack with goat meat. It can also contain beef, cheese and vegetables -- its ingredients vary region to region. We found it on most cafe menus and learned it is often featured at celebrations. Punta del Este also has the oldest cinematographic festival in Latin America: the International Film Festival of Punta del Este, founded in 1951. It also claims the first green building in the world, a 16-story structure that produces renewable energy through turbines and solar panels. It was inaugurated in 2013, proving Uruguay has a social conscience to match its lovely beaches.  Bruce Keller in a playful mood in the shops of Punta del Este. WE FOUND driving in Uruguay easy and safe. On both organized bus tours and in a rental car, we felt safe and comfortable. The roads were well maintained and GPS took us where we wanted. We were thrilled to see a couple gauchos on horseback, on side roads.    AFTER DRIVING  in many cities worldwide, we were struck by how friendly Uruguayan drivers are. Everyone we encountered was polite, patient and helpful. Several times, drivers waved at us, making us feel welcome in a strange land. Actors in a play within the play: A scene from "Hamlet" by Montana's popular Shakespeare in the Parks tour.   UP NEXT: Montana's Shakespeare in the Parks has been bringing terrific theater to the hinterlands for decades.  Here, in a masterful production of "Hamlet," an acting troupe plays out a murder scene. Hamlet has arranged the vignette, knowing that his uncle Claudius will gather that Hamlet knows he poisoned his father to take the throne and the King's wife, Gertrude.  For more on the play, along with "The Winter's Tale," check the schedule so you can see for yourself if you're anywhere near.  Meanwhile, enjoy, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, family, nature, performance and more:  www.whereiscookie.com