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Snow coaches are the way to see Yellowstone Park in winter; Cookie prepares to board on a recent visit.  HEATED SNOW COACH PROVIDES PERFECT PARK VIEWING, BUT DRESS FOR THE COLD IN THE FREEZE   Bison are built for winter, and this guy stops snow coach traffic to make his his way across a road in Yellowstone during winter. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE SNOW actually seems to float upwards.  Sure, it's also coming down , and going sideways . "It's slanted snow," one youngster whooped in delight, as our snow coach slowed for a bison crossing. The critters have frost on their ears and icicles on their eyebrows. Better have a wool scarf, warm socks and a good cap because you will feel the chill, no kidding. WE'RE IN ONE  of the only vehicles allowed in much of the park -- snow coaches that is -- and it's a typical Yellowstone winter. No cars or trucks are allowed -- snow coaches only.  In Yellowstone National Park, winter means seeing the park in a new light -- fewer crowds, frigid temperatures, and steaming geyser basins.  For a period each winter, only snow coaches can traverse the park's inner roads.  "Oversnow" travel usually ends in mid-March, when plowing crews begin clearing a winter's worth of snow. Usually, as spring comes and temperatures climb, roads start re-opening to normal cars. This usually occurs by mid-April. Keller and Cookie enjoyed a winter trip to the park last  February.     So how cold does it get -- really? I asked a park ranger on our last frigid visit. He said temperatures range from zero to 20F (-20C to -5C) throughout the day. Sub-zero temperatures are common, especially at night and at higher elevations. THE RANGER pointed out that while some people complain about cold and snow, winter provides a better opportunity than summer to view wildlife and birds. We saw eagles and bison, elk and even a solitary moose. We This beautiful hawk doesn't seem to mind winter, for the snow makes it easier to view and find a snack. The absence of leaves also makes it easier for us to see him -- here, on a cottonwood in West Yellowstone. saw hawks that we'd have missed in summer, The river is not quite frozen, yet, but will sport ice in  the shallows as winter progresses. standing out in the winter trees in a way they don't in full foliage of warmer seasons. In early winter, one can hear elk bugling, and watch elk and moose looking for girlfriends.   In Jackson Hole to the south, one can take a sleigh ride through an elk herd.  IN YELLOWSTONE, winter offers a chance to cross-country ski past geysers, snowboard near Old Faithful Snow Lodge and Cabins or watch wolves in Lamar Valley. The warm and inviting Old Faithful Snow Lodge is welcoming,  warm and cozy after a day of snow play and critter viewing. There are also photographic tours of the park during winter, and many ways for travelers to combine their lust for "the great photo" with a pleasant wildlife viewing outing. WE LIKE  to stay a night or two in West Yellowstone before and after a tour. Snow coaches also leave from Gardiner.  Beware, though, if you plan to drive the park on your own, the only road open year-round to regular traffic is from the North Entrance at Gardiner, through the park to Cooke City, via Tower Junction. Travel east of Cooke City via the famed Beartooth Highway is not possible from late fall to late spring. WEATHER  permitting, roads will open to travel soon by snowmobile and snowcoach next month: Dec. 15: West Entrance to Old Faithful, Mammoth to Old Faithful, Canyon to Norris, Canyon to Lake, Old Faithful to West Thumb, South Entrance to Lake, Lake to Lake Butte Overlook. Dec. 22:  East Entrance to Lake Butte Overlook (Sylvan Pass)To find out more: yellowstonepark.com/park/yellowstone-road-access-winter Elegant artwork from Europe's largest private collection greets visitors to Barcelona's Claris Hotel and Spa in Barcelona's Eixample District. UP NEXT: What makes a splendid hotel? Claris Hotel and Spa in central Barcelona is a showpiece in Spain, an elegant, renowned property with a private art collection endowed by the Derby Hotel Groups' owner, whose art treasures compose Europe's largest private collection.   The hotel,  in the renowned Eixample district of the city, has a five-star reputation for luxury, on the vibrant Passeig de Gràcia, with a stunning rooftop bar, a knowledgeable and multi-lingual staff, proximity to Gaudi sites and pampering amenities. Come splurge with us, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post anew, a fresh approach to travel, nature and the arts.

Watching beautiful bears scamper, play and eat is a pleasure offered by West Yellowstone's Discovery Center. The animals within this extraordinary complex cannot be safely returned to the wild, so live out their days in care. RESCUED ANIMALS FIND NEW LEASE ON LIFE, PROVIDING NATURE LOVERS WITH CLOSE-UP LOOK AT MAGNIFICENT WILD CREATURES  Sam is the king of the walk at the Discovery Center; he is the largest resident. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE LEARNED SO  much in an afternoon at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center that we wanted to return the next day. Fortunately, the admission ticket to this fine West Yellowstone, Montana, venue allows that. Observant ravens and crows are on hand at the Center, too, gobbling up the scraps of food after the bears and wolves have their fill. The open, airy and nicely designed Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center is one of the "don't miss" pleasures of a trip to the nation's first national park, Yellowstone. The not-for-profit wildlife park is a truly  educational facility, opened nearly a quarter-century ago. Workers have stashed food around the park's ample grounds. Now the bears are smelling out the stash -- and having lunch. SINCE 1993 , the center  has attracted an international clientele of  families and school groups.  The sunny autumn day of our recent visit, we joined several dozen others to get a close-up look at critters who -- for various reasons -- cannot make it on their own in the wild. This beautiful grey wolf is enjoying the late afternoon sun of a fine autumn day. Two packs inhabit the wildlife center.  The wildlife park offers lectures and discussions, with experts describing the habits of the critters and the dangers they can pose when humans get too close. Snow has come to Yellowstone, blanketing the pine and fir trees in cloaks of white. Open a remarkable 365 days a year, the Center offers visitors to Yellowstone a chance to quietly observe and experience a connection to the world of grizzly bears and gray wolves. OUR GUIDE  called the animals    "lucky ambassadors for their wild counterparts.'' Tickets are $13 adults, $12.25, kids $8 seniors, $8 for youngsters, and under three, children are free. For more information: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org UP NEXT:  Winter in Yellowstone.  Come with us on snow coaches to a world of white and wonder.  And, oh, yes, it is verrrrrrrry cold, so dress warmly.  For several months of the year, the most stunning marvels of the park can only be experienced by snow coach. It's a winter wonderland and extraordinary time to visit. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and check us out each Friday for a fresh and lively look at travel, nature, family and the arts.

Whirling waters of the Stillwater in south-central Montana lead the way to Sioux Charley. The U.S. Forest Service has created a lovely path.  MONTANA GORGE MAKES FOR MAGICAL HIKING   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER EACH YEAR , rain or shine, we make a point to hike one of the most spectacular trails on Earth. To our good fortune, this splendid place is just a few miles from our home on Montana's West Fork of the Stillwater River. Friend Lynn Pitet and Cookie pause on the trail. Even in a skiff of snow, we can safely maneuver from our gravel road to the blue highway that leads to the trail head of the hike to Lake Sioux Charley, named, many believe, to honor an Indian guide. The entire trail is 26 miles long, the first part following the river to the lake. The trail follows the Stillwater River for three-fourths of a mile, (trail number 24), goes to Sioux Charley Lake . The popular trail is much loved by hikers, horseback riders and tourists. THE HIKE into Sioux Charley in the  Beartooth Mountains is a pleasant six mile out-and-back hike. It takes lucky nature lovers past roaring cascades of the Stillwater River to a peaceful, wide stretch of the river perfect for a day hike and picnic. I've taken my watercolors many times, or the latest New Yorker. The trail begins at the Stillwater River Trailhead at the end of the road past the tiny town of Nye and the Stillwater Mine. Here, on the northern front of the Beartooth Mountains, behold a glorious sight. THE FIRST  half-mile of the hike leads wanderers through what we locals call the Stillwater Gorge. Its breathtaking features include tight cliffs on each side of the river with bird's eye views of  the churning river, boulders and waterfalls. This beautiful stretch makes the hike worthwhile, and leads to a tranquil meadow. A few have tried their luck on rafts and kayaks. Since an unfortunate fatality a few years ago, we have not seen rafters. People often meet horseback riders, and well behaved leashed dogs. Lovely wildflowers dot the way to the lake. One of the chief pleasures for me is stopping to "smell the roses" -- in the case of the Sioux Charley hike -- a gorgeous array of wildflowers along the path. We've seen bears and bighorns, too. The trail goes much farther, but most people only do 3.5 miles. We've never had a bad trip up the gorge. It's a family tradition and a treat for visitors. If you're our way, be our guests. A well tended wolf, rescued because he was injured, pauses in the Discovery Center after a meal, and is much admired and photographed.   UP NEXT : The Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone cares for both bears and wolves that cannot be returned to the wild.  This wonderful place is a fine educational tool for tourists and families. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for each weekend's post.

Yellowstone's extraordinary geysers erupt at various times around the clock.  The  Grand Prismatic Basin is a good place to see geysers if your enjoy a hike. So is Upper Geyser Basin, because of the frequency of the "blasts" and plumes.  GLITZY, GLORIOUS GEYSERS. SO GO GET YOUR CAMERA READY AND WATCH THEM ERUPT! Photographer and counselor Rick Cosgriffe makes his annual fall pilgrimage, as behind him clouds, geysers and waterfalls merge in steam and spray. Stage Coach Inn is perfect base for geyser hopping   STORY By CHRISTENE  MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER TRAPPER JOHN Colter must have thought he was hallucinating. Or that he'd died and gone to you-know-where. A thermal pool at the Norris Geyser Basin reveals gorgeous greens and golds.  When he happened on the wonderland of eysers, hotpots and warm bubbling springs in 1808, he may have doubted his eyes. Or thought the end of the world was near. (I always think of the three Weird Sisters in the opening of "Macbeth.") Even now, after nearly 100 trips to Yellowstone National Park, geysers, mud pots, molten pools astonish with their vivid colors, scents and shapes. So check in to the vintage, well located and historic Stage Coach Inn in West Yellowstone -- and begin your nearby geyser hopping adventure. Yellowstone's geysers and hot pots offer an artist's array of color. NOTHING LIKE a geyser to make you feel small, insignificant and aware of your "lowly cog" status in the  the universe. Yellowstone, mostly in Wyoming but claimed by Montanans as ours, is the world's best place to see geysers. Oh, sure, they exist in Chile, Iceland and New Zealand, but not on the spectacular scale as the Yellowstone geyser bonanza. SO WHAT is a geyser? Simply put: a hot spring in which water intermittently boils, sending a tall column of water and steam into the air. The Stage Coach Inn in West Yellowstone offers a perfect stay with a lovely breakfast, comfy rooms and great location. Black and white image makes the steam of these eerie Yellowstone geysers even more surreal. Trapper Joe Meek stumbled upon what is now known as the Norris Geyser basin area in 1829. His stories of fire, brimstone and boiling pots were met with unbelief.  In the 1830s, mountain man Jim Bridger began exploring the Yellowstone region. Few believed his reports of petrified birds and trees and waterfalls "spouting upwards."   Take a turn-off from the beaten path, to discover beautiful pools, geysers.  From left, clockwise, Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Christene (Cookie) Meyers and Elliana Broscious enjoy a recent Yellowstone outing on the geyser trail,  A RAFT OF explorers followed,  traversing the strange and wonderful geyser basins, pondering the park's glories.  After Colter, naturalists developed a way to log the various thermal features and the term “geyser,” came into being. The term originated in Iceland in the late 18th century.  It comes from the word, geysir, the name of a particular spring in Iceland, and is related to geysa meaning "to gush." Some of Yellowstone's geysers erupt every 10 minutes or so.  When I was a child, Old Faithful was just that, sending gorgeous plumes as high as a hotel, every hour -- give or take a minute. Today she erupts every 35 to 120 minutes, seldom going over over 180 feet. She is still the park's most famous spouter, having erupted more than a million times since Yellowstone debuted as the world's first national park in 1872. KELLER'S FAVORITE Yellowstone's "big four" include geysers, hot springs, fumaroles and mudpots. A fumarole is an opening   through which hot sulfurous gases emerge. Hot pots and geysers north of Gibbon  Falls, before the junction to Canyon. place to see geysers and mud pots is Artists' Paintpots, gurgling pastel-colored mud and springs, bubbling, dancing and hissing under a blanket of steam. Besides Old Faithful, Castle Geyser and Riverside Geyser are other popular ones to show off the unique geothermal features of   Yellowstone's steaming vents, eruptions and hot springs.  The "big four" features are geysers,  hot  springs, fumaroles and mudpots. Yellowstone claims 500 geysers, half of the world's total number, located in nine unique and varied geyser basins within the park. Steamboat in the Norris Basin is the world's tallest Book your geyser-hopping hotel at:   yellowstoneinn.com From left, great niece Elliana, Keller, Cookie's brother Rick, with Nick and Nora sacked out on the bed at a Bozeman Hot Springs cabin. COMING UP : Traveling with family and pets can be a delight if you plan correctly.  Be sure to have plenty of dry, warm clothes if it's a winter trip, and make certain the young have enough distractions -- natural and otherwise -- to keep them engaged. Here, part of our family enjoys a night in a rustic cabin at Bozeman Hot Springs, enroute to a weekend in Yellowstone National Park. Even the Yorkies are snug this chilly autumn night. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for each week's post, with a fresh look at nature, family, critters, the arts and travel.

Well fed bison roam near Norris Junction in Yellowstone National Park, with geysers spouting behind them. The Roosevelt Arch, approaching Mammoth from withinn the park, honors  Teddy Roosevelt's guiding spirit in establishing the park system. Yellowstone Park's founder and patron saint. BISON, WOLVES, ELK  MOOSE AND BEARS, OH MY! STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller, left, and Rick Cosgriffe, right, enjoy a photography session on a four-day journey through Yellowstone. They frame a grazing cow elk.  YELLOWSTONE is beautiful in all four seasons. But my favorite time is autumn, when the air is clean and there's frost on the ground in the morning. When the tourist rush is over and the critters are on the move.  Winter's in the wings and the deer and elk are mating and making lots of noise. Grizzlies azn sometimes be seen near the Cody Entrance, as here.  A gorgeous wolf is one of two packs lovingly tended at the Grizzly  and Wolf Encounter Center in West Yellowstone The bison and bears are fattening up -- and  at the West Yellowstone's wonderful Bear and Wolf Discovery Center, you can see close-up the critters you might not spot roaming in the park. The Center rescues, cares for and exhibits in a natural habitat animals who for various reasons cannot be returned to the wild. We spent three hours enjoying the lectures and films and watching well tended critters rooting for food hidden  for Sam, the largest of the West Yellowstone Grizzly and Wolf Center roots around for food hidden by the trainers. them to find. WHATEVER PART of Yellowstone's glorious two million acres we visit, Teddy Roosevelt's best gift to the country shines like a well loved tiara.  We hiked several of the park's 1,210 miles of marked trails, seeing many. We usually stay at Lake Yellowstone Hotel or Old Faithful Inn, but this time opted to stay in West Yellowstone and drive in daily.  This allowed a leisurely afternoon at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West, a true gem which cares for and makes comfortable animals who cannot be returned to the wild.  Taking our great-niece along was a benefit.  Seeing the park through young, excited eyes reminds us of its wonder.  Geyser discoverers, clockwise from left: Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Christene (Cookie) Meyers and Elliana Broscious exploring Yellowstone.  NEXT UP : Part two of our photographic essay on the park features the phenomenal geysers which help make it a destination for international travelers and family looking to entertain and educate all generations.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for our weekend post.

Snow covered apples are a pretty sight, amidst the season's first snow as the melt begins. LIFE IS GOOD, PLEASURES ARE SIMPLE DURING POWER OUTAGE IN THE HIGH COUNTRY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Spiced apples, homemade chili, cocoa and biscuits next up as dough rises. WHEN THE  power goes off in the northern Rockies, and winter is at hand, one needs to have a back-up.  What to do?  No lights, no heat, and the refrigerator is quickly losing its cold. Not to worry. Through the years, we've developed a game plan for staying safe, snug and satisfied when the power goes off.  Once it was out for nearly four days.  Other times, it's only a few hours. From nearly a quarter-century of living part of the year in a beautiful but remote place, we know to keep candles at the ready, jugs of water under the sink, easy-to-prepare meals, sleeping bags nearby and buckets to fill from the artesian well, for flushing the toilet. WE KEEP  dry firewood in a  protected  rack, and we know exactly where the snow shovel is. We always have a cooler nearby, with travel ice packs frozen, to minimize opening the refrigerator and freezer. Nick and Nora are safe under the writing table, happy to be well fed and loved, and safe with their owners to wait out the storm in comfort. BIRD LIFE out the window is extraordinary. I don waterproof boots to fill the feeders. We watch dozens of junkos, sparrows and chickadees feast. A hike up Woodbine Falls, two days after the storm, showed little trace of snow. Our Yorkies, Nick and Nora,sport fetching new winter coats, and are snug under the table as I write, happy to be with us and content with their Greenie treats and full tummies. I take a break from writing to play the piano, choosing a medley of country songs Keller requests  -- "Home on the Range," "Red River Valley," and "Don't Fence Me In." WE KNOW  that the power company will do its best to restore power, and that the snow plow will eventually arrive to clear the roads.  Besides the candles we keep near, we ready my brother Rick's beautiful porcelain kerosene lamps. The futon from the log room makes a comfy bed next to the fire, and we close off all but the kitchen and living room to maximize heat from the stove. We  have two glorious heat sources, apart from electrical heat which goes off with the lights. A wood burning fireplace and stove in the parlor allows us to heat water for tea, coffee and cocoa, and to cook simple meals.  Our trusty cast-iron skillet and granddad's pancake griddle allow a quick egg dish and heat-up of food from the freezer or frig. Two days after the storm that crippled the valley, things are mostly back to normal.   The leaves are not yet turning color (heavy branches downed many power lines). Snow is visible in the mountains.  A Beartooth Electric worker splices power lines above the berm at High Chaparral after the snows came -- about 10 inches. With leaves not yet fallen, wet snow broke many branches. The day of the power outage, we dined on omelettes about 11 a.m., chili at 3:30 p.m., and dinner at 8:30 p.m., a delightful curry we collaborated on with chutney from our snow laden apple tree. If the outage lasts several days, we also crank up the original 1881 fireplace in the log room and it throws plenty of heat throughout the entire house. THE DOWN  sleeping bags were laid out on the futon when the power was restored in less than a day this time. Darn. Our time in paradise, sans power, was a reminder of how simple and glorious life can be. Let's do this again soon. Cookie loves to play piano, particularly if the instrument is a baby grand. Here she is at the Welk Resort in southern California. She's played since she was three years old, and hopes to never stop sharing tunes. NEXT UP :  Cookie's back at the piano.  A gig at the Petroleum Club in Billings, Montana, high atop the city's Double Tree Hotel and the 22nd story, reminds her of what she loves about music and playing requests of others. Join us for an homage to the wonder of sharing tunes with friends, as music becomes a conduit for connections, memory and friendship. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend, a variety of pieces on travel, art, nature and whatever comes to mind.

Oregon's lighthouses are a beloved part of coastal history, much visited and appreciated by locals and tourists alike. SHINING THE LIGHT ON OREGON'S LINKS TO THE PAST -- TOWERING MONUMENTS TO THE STATE'S MARITIME HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS The approach to Yaquina Head Lighthouse near Newport, offers a fine view of the seacoast, where nesting seabirds may be observed.  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER LIGHTHOUSES  -- those sentinels on the shore, saviors to sailors and an appealing curiosity to tourists -- are beloved across the world and particularly on both U.S. coasts. In the state of Oregon, lighthouses testify to a rugged life before modern technology.  They tell of strong families and courageous sailors, of risky journeys and fierce storms. Nine classic structures -- from Tillamook in the north to Cape Blanco near Port Orford in the south -- take visitors back in time to learn what life was like for the keepers who lit the way and sailors who navigated the waters. A young docent at Yaquina Bay Lighthouse dresses in vintage garb to welcome visitors.  We enjoyed commentary  and a tour of the keeper's office, then climbed with  her to the top of the state's highest lighthouse. MOST   ARE OPEN to the public, offering a variety of ways to "get close-up."  Some have tours and visitors centers.  Others offer public rental space. Some are co-operatively managed by state, county, town and tribal agencies. Most are part of state or county Parks and Recreation Departments, which maintain them and the visitors centers. Several contain original first-order Fresnel lenses. Others are known for their seabird nesting sites, wonderful nearby hiking and enchanting tide pools. Each lighthouse has unique features. Heceta Head Lighthouse has admirably preserved its assistant lighthouse keeper's house, now a bed and breakfast, recently undergoing extensive restoration. Tillamook Rock Lighthouse stands grandly on a basalt rock islet and was once used as a columbarium to store ashes of the deceased. Cape Blanco is the oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon Coast, commissioned nearly a century-and-one-half ago in 1870.  Its history includes faithful service during the colorful gold mining and lumber industry days. It did service for more than a century, when automated equipment was installed by the U.S. Coast Guard in 1980. Friends of the Lighthouse at  Yaquina Head Lighthouse help maintain the 93-foot tower, highest on the Oregon coast. The lighthouse is near Newport, 162 feet above sea level.  BECAUSE OF THE  various methods and agencies maintaining these intriguing monuments to past life -- including private ownership -- there is no uniform schedule or access.  For hours and tours, seek individual web or phone contact. Indian tribes, for instance, own Cape Arago Lighthouse, near North Bend and Coos Bay. There's no public access but a beautiful nearby bay offers a fine view.  We enjoyed the unique fog horn there. A GORGEOUS Fresnel lens is the star in the Yaquina Head Lighthouse. The lens has a unique design allowing a larger aperture and shorter focal length, projecting light over a greater distance. This friend to sailors and boatmen assured precious cargo made its destination. The Fresnel lens (pronounced "Fre-nel," with a silent "s") has a prominent place in any lighthouse it serves. Named after its French  The Fresnel lens, left, gives ships far better  light for navigation. At right, a typical  lens used before Fresnel. inventor, most of these lenses retired more than 20 years ago.  In Oregon and California, they remain an attraction because of the superb craftsmanship and ability to concentrate light into a powerful beam.  "Far out," as we said in the 1960s and '70s. Our guide gave detailed descriptions of the lens, along with lively lighthouse history as we examined tools, records and lighthouse lore. Life as a keeper was tough -- through all kinds of weather -- and included surprise visits at any time of day or night from the inspector.  KEEP IN MIND  that the lighthouses of Oregon also offer excellent wildlife viewing, situated as they are on rocky outposts. During fall, winter and spring, visitors flock to the lighthouses for prime whale watching, too. A lineman from Beartooth Electric cuts tree limbs from his perch in a "basket" attached to his power company truck, at High Chaparral Friday. NEXT UP:  Lights -- wait -- no lights -- but plenty of action and cameras this weekend as the lights and power went out in "Wild Kingdom," AKA High Chaparral in the northern Rockies. Linemen from the local Beartooth Electric Company cut downed tree branches, then restrung and spliced power lines felled by snow-soaked limbs. We were snug inside, cooking scrambled eggs on the wood stove. We'll tell you how we cope  with power outages as we play our version of  "O, Pioneers," the wonderful Willa Cather book in which she introduces the land as a character. Remember to explore, learn, live and catch us Fridays for each new weekend's post.

Big Sky Country on the Stillwater River -- looking from our friends' home, John and Laurie Beers, toward High Chaparral.   BIG SKY COUNTRY OFFERS MULTITUDE OF GORGEOUS SIGHTS, EVEN IN FIRE SEASON A prairie grouse poses out our front door, enjoying the late summer sun. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER MUCH HAS  been written about Montana's sky and mountains. Although the state Highway Department used the phrase "Big Sky Country" in a 1960s promotion, the moniker traces back to writer A.B. Guthrie's 1947 novel. "The Big Sky" is considered by the late writer and critic Wallace Stegner "the best" of Guthrie's six novels dealing with the Oregon Trail and the development of Montana from 1830 to the 1880s. The Fishtail Store is an institution. The sweeping saga spans the time of the Mountain Men to the cattle empire of the 1880s to the time of the book's writing, post World War II. Up the draw toward the artesian well, High Chap colors are turning. MY NATIVE  state offers a bounty of beautiful sights:  the aspen trees are just beginning to turn. Wild fires surrounding us give an even more golden glow to the sunsets. Birds are loading up on berries.  The sunsets are a glorious blend of crimson, orange, pale blue and golden hues, accentuated by smoke from 19 wild fires surrounding us. Tourists and natives alike also love Montana's mountains.  Writer John Steinbeck said they were the kind of mountains he'd make if mountains were ever put on his agenda. RETURNING  to the mountains this year has special meaning for us. When we left nearly 13 months ago, for our winter base in San Diego, we were climbing slowly up the list for Keller's liver transplantation.  We did not know if we would be back this year, so even the sometimes smoky view at the Beartooths is a blessing. High Chap's mountain at the "top of the prop" provides a setting for an annual picnic and saxophone serenade. We're reveling in reunions with our dear friends here -- some locals and others summer people such as are we. We crossed paths by only days with the "Georgia contingent," a group of Atlanta based sojourners and like-minded friends, who closed up their places just after we all met by the river for a "no labor Labor Day party." Gooseberries, chokecherries and elderberries are favorites with deer. OUR FRIENDS  are an eclectic group -- well traveled, well educated, avid readers, activists,  thinkers, global in their politics.  It took us a while to find them.  The party hosts, for instance, recently built on the Stillwater and sold their home in St. Croix. Others are from Pennsylvania, Washington state, California and many other parts of the world. We met a couple recently who live in Spain and visit Montana a couple times a year. Sandhill cranes greeted us on our drive up the valley to home. Wild roses are still blooming, albeit only a few.  They are glorious. WE'RE  thankful to celebrate our return with these friends who have had their own losses, illness and accidents during our absence and challenges with the transplant. We're planning an encore climb up the hill behind our home, to the "top of the prop" as we call it, for me to offer a picnic serenade with my saxophone. And while little things are frustrating -- a few trees lost to winter -- we feel the same love we always feel when we land in Montana with its beauty and staunch pals. There's no place like it. As Steinbeck put it, "For other states, I have admiration, respect, recognition, even affection. But with Montana it is love. And it's difficult to analyze love." The Ariel String Quartet thrills a sell-out crowd at an earlier Tippet Rise event. NEXT UP :  Tippet Rise, that magical art and concert venue near Fishtail, Montana, is in its second fantastic season. On tap this weekend are world renowned pianist Anne-Marie McDermott and the St. Lawrence String Quartet.  Each weekend, world class musicians thrill crowds in a unique setting, always a sold-out venue, with tickets kept cheap to encourage a wide audience range. Join us at Tippet Rise, remembering to explore, learn and live. We post our novel look at nature, the arts, health and travel each Friday, for the weekend.

Bruce Keller, known by family and friends, by his surname, and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, reveling in smooth sailing after two years of dealing with hepatitis C, the cure with Harvoni and the decision to transplant.    TRIUMPHANT TRANSPLANT: 'Patient Patient' is poster boy for miracle of science, reclaimed health Bruce Keller, aka "Patient Patient,'  left Scripps Green Hospital after only three days, a record for atransplant at the renowned hospital. Editor's Note: In May, we offered a three-part series on Bruce Keller's liver transplant in San Diego. Several thousand readers followed our story and have asked how we are doing now, three-plus months after the surgery. Thumbs up all around, and here's how: STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Keller's recovery was so swift -- knock wood -- that Cookie and Keller have the green light to return to southern Spain for their annual fall trip.  Here, their traditional tapas spread, on their Maloaga trip November of 2016. A YEAR AGO,  we were climbing up the transplant list at Scripps Green Hospital in San Diego, wondering how long our lives would hover in this state of waiting, wondering and anxiety. Would we have to wait years?  How would Keller be feeling during the wait?  Could we travel? Keller and Cookie on Friday date night at La Jolla Shores, on the beach. How far from home? How long to recovery? What after-effects might he feel? When could he return safely to work? How would Cookie cope with care-giving for an extended period? One by one, these questions have been answered, and we're thrilled to share the good news that after 15 weeks, all systems are go. We'll not rehash the "before" tale.  The back-story is in the three pieces, whose links we include in this story.  At your request, we'll focus on life after the transplantation. WE'VE HAD moments of joy and a few moments of terror. Confused by mixed messages from the pharmacy, we put aside one of the primary anti-rejection drugs and did not take it for 11 days.  'Nurse Cookie" also reduced the dosage of another of the meds for a few days, attempting to adjust the tremor that Keller developed. Bad idea for a patient (or his well meaning partner) to take such matters into one's own hands.  Our fabulous physician, Dr. Catherine Frenette, cautioned there would be bumps in the road.  Keller on his bike, heading into the stretch toward four months post transplant. Ours were minor, compared to other patients, some of whom spend weeks, even months, hospitalized post transplant. Cookie admits she erred in playing doctor -- and was relieved she did not lose her metaphoric nurse's cap, getting off with only a well deserved scolding. DESPITE DAUNTING numbers of pills those first few weeks, the number of meds is decreasing.  We realize we will have to take a couple critical anti-rejection drugs for the rest of Keller's life.  This is a small price to pay for the magnificent gift of a new liver and a new lease on life. http://www.whereiscookie.com/2017/05/transplant-tale-miracle-unfolds-with.html Nick and Nora are welcome at the Omni Hotel Los Angeles. We were able to drive  to Los Angeles, to see plays and concerts at the Ahmanson Theatre and Disney Concert Hall. We stay at our favorite downtown hotel, the Omni, which is "Yorkie friendly" and a splendid, all-service venue, walking distance to the theaters. Caregiving is exhausting.  Here Cookie follows orders: take time to relax and replenish yourself. Keller helps new nephew-in-law, Mike Hill, at his wedding to our niece Kira. We've had fun weekend get-aways at friends' homes celebrating Cookie's month-long birthday celebration which begins August 1 and -- by tradition -- ends on Labor Day. DAILY BIKE  rides and a return to Keller's construction foreman jobs have helped us return to normalcy. And Cookie's beloved Jazzercise has helped her maintain most of her composure -- with occasional lapses, she says. She loves our sailing trips from San Diego.    Green light for cruising:  we have the okay from "Dr. F" for a return to southern Europe a couple weeks shy of the six-months originally suggested for a return to international travel. http://www.whereiscookie.com/2017/06/transplant-tale-continues-with-look-at.html Travel is once again a constant in the lives of travel writers and photographers Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers, here at Lake Tahoe with their Yorkies Nick and Nora. WE WERE   thrilled when the doctors approved a trip in late July to our niece's wedding on the Oregon coast.  "Dr. F," as we affectionately refer to her, had estimated a three-month minimum three months before domestic travel and six before we could safely venture across the pond. During my long wait outside the ICU, the night of the surgery, I did the math, wondering if we would be able to make our annual autumn trip to southern Spain.  It is a ten-year tradition. Playing piano, lecturing and part-time teaching are again part of Cookie's life. "We'll see," said Dr. F.  "Be patient." We were. http://www.whereiscookie.com/2017/06/transplant-tale-into-light-with-merging.html   We are delighted to be able to make our Montana pilgrimage which this year involves a return to our mountain home and a few weeks of repair to the damage done by a bear who broke into the place as we were leaving late last summer. Dr. Jonathan Fisher was chief surgeon -- one of three who assisted on Keller's liver transplant May 13 at Scripps Green Hospital in San Diego.  Clowning behind him is Joe Murillo, one of several delightful  physician's assistants.   WE'VE SEGUED  from Scripps' brilliant, highly ranked "liver team" back to our regular physician, "Dr. F."   Back in Big Sky Country, Cookie and Keller are enjoying time to rest. We'll feature a photo montage and some insights about this lovely part of the Northern Rockies in a Montana girl's  whereiscookie.com    Our visits to Scripps have decreased from two and three times a week to once a week, to twice monthly, and during our Montana stay, to monthly, keeping in touch with Dr. Frenette as needed, checking in with the helpful transplant team if we have concerns. (It is available 24-7.) We will have blood labs taken during our Big Sky visit, which is possible with a form that is simply handed to the participating clinics, http://www.whereiscookie.com/2017/06/transplant-tale-continues-with-look-at.html   with the myriad results emailed back to Scripps.  If  adjustments are needed, they'll be made, thanks to the magic of the Internet. WE ARE GRATEFUL, but not foolish or deluded. We know problems can arise quickly; conditions change, thus the need for vigilance and monitoring.  We take an informed approach to our situation. We love Scripps -- ten minutes from our house. We've written a detailed letter of thanks to the donor family -- using the hospital as a screening conduit. They approved of and forwarded our letter and we're hoping to hear back. (Cookie is convinced that Keller received Don Rickles' liver, because his level of sarcastic humor has increased.  Keller was hoping for the liver of a jazz pianist, so he could play duets with Cookie.) Cookie and Keller a couple weeks ago on the Oregon coast. Some donor families relish communicating with the recipient.  Others find it too painful to respond to a note of appreciation.  We'll see. Meanwhile, Keller says he feels better than he has in years, which makes Nurse Cookie very, very happy. Stay tuned; we'll keep you in the "liver loop." Summer at our Montana hideaway with a corner of the Big Sky, top right.. NEXT UP:  Big Sky Country is gorgeous in late summer -- even with the wild fires.  The days are dry and sunny, the evenings are cool and breezy.  High in the mountains, the stars are brilliant. And the bird life is abundant.  We saw a mountain lion today. Come with us, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel look at the arts, travel, nature and the lives of two people who live life by the "carpe diem" creed.

Yorkshire terrier Nick enjoys the sun on a late-summer hike with us near Coos Bay, Oregon, a splendid retreat. This quiet but active corner of Oregon offers fine food, a paradise for nature lovers and a pampering hotel casino. If you are fascinated by bridges, make a drive through southwestern Oregon.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OREGON HAS  a special place in my family's heart. And, like memories of family, Oregon's coastal towns have a timeless quality.  Coos Bay evokes happy memories of a bygone time. It's retained that small-town charm that means the cafe waitress greets you and knows how you like your coffee. Yet it has big-city attractions and amenities -- a lovely resort hotel staffed by friendly folk, proud of the area and eager to share their knowledge. Fine shopping. Nature. Mill Casino Hotel is a beautifully built, handsomely  landscaped get-away in southwestern Oregon. Thumbs up! PEOPLE GREET one another on the street. Yards are neatly groomed.  Pets are well behaved, there's an active artistic life. The scenery is lush. We'd heard from writer friends about the Mill Casino Hotel and loved our gorgeous bay view from the hotel's pretty tower. There's also a cozy lodge with lovely woodworking.  My half-amphibian partner particularly enjoyed the water life, for the harbor is the largest deep-draft coastal harbor between San Francisco Bay and Puget Sound, and is Oregon's second busiest maritime commerce center after Portland, four hours north. A variety of water activity unfolds from a room at Mill Casino Hotel. Pleasure boats, freighters with lumber, sand, gravel and other goods provide activity. The hotel offers free shuttle, parking and valet services, an attractive fitness room and welcoming spa, arcade and business center. We felt pampered with comfy pillows and some of the best hotel coffee we've had in hundreds of hotel stays -- Red Wagon Organic Coffee.  Were it not for my gambling penchant and desire to try a few of Coos Bay's fabled seafood restaurants, we'd have little need to leave the room, but we ventured downstairs to squander some fun money in the pleasant casino, and check out the hotel's excellent eateries -- one casual, one more formal. THE VILLAGES of North Bend, Eastside, and Charleston cluster together near Coos Bay. You can satisfy your seafood yearnings in this picturesque part of southwestern Oregon.  It has more fish restaurants than one can   Captain's Choice Family Fish House offers pleasant, homespun ambiance, friendly service and delicious seafood. shake a pole at. Blue Heron, Shark Bites, Fisherman's Grotto all serve tasty fare and we made a second trip to Captain's Choice for its superb fish and chips.  Keller, here, and Cookie, hiked around and under several bridges.  What we appreciated   about this pretty, quietly busy part of Oregon was the mix of sophistication and "laid back". Oregonians, like my fellow  Montanans, enjoy a lovely meal, and a top hotel.  They also love  nature.  Hiking, biking, birding are favorite hobbies in this little corner of Oregon. We also noticed posters for art and jazz festivals, and sampled many homemade goodies, from a fantastic berry pie to gooey cinnamon rolls. And, like my native Montana, there's no sales tax, so bring home a piece of Oregon's famous handmade pottery -- and some of her delightful wine and beer!  www.themillcasino.com ;  coosbay.org Keller and Cookie celebrate his rebound from liver transplantation aboard Hornblower, a favorite outing when they are based in San Diego.  NEXT UP:   Answering the request of more than 5,000 readers, we bring you up to speed with our transplant saga.  All systems are go, including the green light to visit Montana this year, and make our   autumn trip to southern Europe.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post our novel look at travel, nature and the arts. And click this link to refresh your memory of the transplant story:  http://www.whereiscookie.com/2017/06/transplant-tale-into-light-with-merging.html

Outside the Allen Elizabethan Theater, people take the summer night's air between acts. Next door, the Bowmer Theater has a play underway, too, and across the street the smaller Thomas Theater also has a production.  ASHLAND WORKS ITS WONDERS WITH FABULOUS THEATER, FINE FOOD, GORGEOUS HOTELS AND MORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A back-stage tour takes one behind the scenes, here into the Bowmer Theater where  two of Cookie's seats are pictured in the foreground, and the bed frame from "Shakespeare in Love" awaits viewers. Patrons may purchase a chair plaque to honor a loved one. AS A CHILD , theater cast a spell on me. Its user-friendly witchcraft opened doors to travel and daring, shaping my imagination and enhancing my life. For decades I've enjoyed the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, viewing hundreds of plays of every genre. Contemporary theater and Shakespeare's classics -- with the fest's famous gender bending, age defying, multi-racial, shake-it-up, spin. Here in this small, village-like but hip southern Oregon town, the festival and its three distinctly different theaters offer more than the bard's brilliant works.  A beautifully staged potpourri unfolds: new challenging work, time honored classics of both the American and European stages and the occasional musical take bows as well. This year's festival was a thrilling, exhilarating mix. THE LINE-UP REFLECTS Ashland's blend of sophistication and earthy appeal, its ability to satisfy town and gown tastes, to bring together in the love of fine Ashland Hills' Luna offers delightful fare and a fun happy hour, with perfect small plates for before or after a play. theater, both city folks and small-town dwellers who have chosen Ashland for its culture and proximity to the outdoors. Nick and Nora enjoy the dog-friendly atmosphere of the Neuman properties.  To find a place that offers diversions both soothing and exciting render Ashland a jewel of America and the globe. The renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival reaches an audience approaching a half-million and its budget is creeping near $40 million. The fest is the crown jewel   Ashland Hills Hotel, just a pleasant few minutes from town center and the plays offers tranquility, pretty landscaping and attentive service, plus a fun restaurant, Luna.  Ashland's main street at night shows off the beauty of Ashland Springs Hotel, once the tallest building between San Francisco and Portland. It is steps from fine theater. of Ashland's attractions, which includes two splendid sister properties artfully run by the Neuman Hotel Group. Ashland Hills on the fringe of town offers a tranquil, rural setting, and Ashland Springs downtown offers old-world charm, sophistication and proximity to the action.  Both properties exhibit ambiance aplenty, friendly, efficient service, and fine dining in Larks at the Springs and Luna at the Hills. THE FESTIVAL , now a world class enterprise, was founded by a Scotsman, Angus Bowmer, who called Rogue Valley home. In 1934, Bowmer organized boxing matches to fund his deeper passion, theater. Cookie strolls in the Allen Elizabethan Theatre grounds, a beloved venue. As the play- loving audience grew, so did the town's tourism. Today's Ashland also offers a delightful dinner theater, Oregon Cabaret; a fun movie theater, the Varsity; many boutiques, pubs, specialty shops, bars, unique clothing stores and art galleries.  Ashland is also a foodie's paradise. We've dined in a bounty of fine eateries with family and friends from San Francisco, Portland, Seattle, Denver, Chicago and Billings, Montana, my home for many years. Actor Jennie Greenberry plays Belle in "Disney's Beauty and the Beast" and took time for a photo  with a young fan. ONE ASSUMES  that Bowmer's spirit is blessing the abundance. The clever, play-loving Temperatures last week topped 110 degrees in Ashland, Oregon as Cookie and Keller took in a raft of cool plays. gentleman's dream that Ashland could support live theater came true. The boxing that funded the first plays was phased out, as audiences opted for Shakespeare, contemporary comedy and drama over pugilism. This year's season has the "something for everyone" credo that Bowmer espoused. In three complementary venues, and 10 productions, one may span centuries, styles and cultures. FOR FANS  of Shakespeare -- whose eloquence headlined the festival for decades -- four plays run in three venues. The time honored "Henry IV" pair -- parts One and Two -- is on tap in the Thomas Theatre, while in the Angus Bowmer Theatre, a magnificent "Julius Caesar" unfolds. "The Merry Wives of Windsor" is regaling crowds in the Allen Elizabethan Theatre. A gifted female actor delightfully renders Falstaff, one of the bard's most colorful creations. "The Odyssey" takes us on an unforgettable journey to ancient lands. The Green Show begins each evening with sprightly music.  Oregon Cabaret Theatre presents entertaining theater and fine fare in a beautifully restored old church in Ashland. Because it offers quality productions and runs Monday, dark day at OSF, it is usually sold out.  The season includes a memorable pair of world premieres, "Hannah and the Dread Gazebo," in the Thomas, and "Off the Rails" in the Bowmer. The Elizabethan also features a mesmerizing "Disney's Beauty and the Beast" with gorgeous voices. "Unison," with high-tech staging and versatile singers, honors the poetry of August Wilson. EACH ACTOR   participates in at least two plays with three to five performances a week, usually a major role in one production and a supporting role in one or two others. It's fun to recognize actors in the pubs and on the street, while on stage, observing them in multiple roles. "Hey, that guy played in 'Caesar' and now he's in an old-west hero." (Cicero is played by a female actor, too.) A player may headline in one production and join the ensemble in the next, since repertory means the shows run in rotation for the February to October season. There's an intense point each June when all shows on the playbill are either being rehearsed or performed. www.osfashland.org ; wwwAshlandHillsHotel.com ; www.AshlandSpringsHotel.com ; www.LUNACafeAshland.com Barcelona's famous Las Ramblas is perhaps Europe's best known walking street, beloved by locals and tourists. UP NEXT :  The terrorist attacks in Barcelona and southern Spain -- beloved by Cookie and Keller, who will soon return -- have left Cookie depressed and determined to do something, even in a small way. What can we do -- as global citizens -- to halt extremism and take a stand against terrorism. Its most recent victims were simply enjoying a sunny summer day on Barcelona's famed Las Ramblas. What is our individual responsibility? Give it some thought, and travel safely -- with savvy and kindness -- remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us Friday evenings when we post for each weekend, our take on travel, nature, the arts, famous cities, friends, family, pets and food.

Wading, not quite walking, on the water, sisters Cookie, left, and Olivia, make their way to the wedding on Beverly Beach. Behind them, sister Misha and family friend Virginia join the wedding party for Kira and Mike. Flower girls sprinkle rose petals along the sand, making way for the bride and groom. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  Gallavant: to go from place to place seeking out entertainment and amusement-- Oxford Dictionary  THIS SUMMER  -- more than any I've experienced in my decades on Earth -- hits home a profound awareness of the brevity of our spin on this wondrous planet. We're celebrating, mourning, mending, toasting, feasting, seeing fine plays, greeting family, "gallavanting," as my Irish gran would have said, experiencing the joys and sorrows of life. Friends are fighting illness and loss, a brother is just home from the hospital after four surgeries. We've sent cards of congratulations -- for birthdays, graduations and wedding anniversaries. We've also posted a dozen sympathy cards and attended a half-dozen memorial services since the holidays. WE'VE 'WADED  in the water,' fording the proverbial stream of  "Climb Every Mountain," and we're keeping an eye on the raging forest fires in my native Montana. Gathering rosebuds: Newlyweds Kira and Mike. Bride Kira Cosgriffe Hill, right, and from left, Cosgriffe sisters Misha Minesinger, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Olivia Cosgriffe. We're seeing nine plays in Ashland, at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, a family tradition, and savoring memories of a splendid family reunion surrounding the wedding. Groom Mike Hill, left, and master builder Bruce Keller, dismantle the trellis under which Kira and Mike exchanged vows a few days ago.  I'm thinking of a poem my late husband Bruce Meyers taught his writing students. "To the Virgins, to Make Much of Time" has stood the test of time and fits my mood today. Written by English Cavalier poet Robert Herrick in the 17th century, the poem is in the genre of my favorite saying -- carpe diem, Latin for seize the day. Herrick entreated: "Gather ye rosebuds while ye may, Old Time is still a-flying...." FOR US,  this two-week odyssey epitomizes his verse.  For we are gathering rosebuds.  The trip represents a return to our cherished world of travel, after Keller's successful liver transplant of exactly twelve weeks ago. We delighted in the picturesque reunion setting on the beautiful Oregon coast. Niece Kira and Mike love Beverly Beach, their choice for the wedding. (We didn't think we'd make it, until a few days before when Cookie and Keller are celebrating, too. Ten years together, a wedding, and a raft of extraordinary plays in Oregon. Keller helped photograph the wedding. Raised on the ocean north of San Diego, he is most at home near water.  excellent scans and bloodwork convinced our doctors we were okay for travel, weeks earlier than originally dictated thanks to Keller's record recovery.) Nick and Nora, above, make themselves at home in favorite hotels, Ashland Hills and  Ashland Springs, both pet friendly digs. WHILE WE MONITOR  forest fires in Big Sky Country, near Bozeman, we are thankful for safety of our Stillwater County home.  I spent the first weeks of my life in Bozeman, with my university-student parents, and we mourn the loss of wildlife and bird habitat in gorgeous Gallatin and Madison counties.  Neighbors along the Stillwater say the smoke is horrible.  We smell it even here in southern Oregon, where we're based for the Festival plays. We're sad that my native state has had to spend nearly $30 million fighting the blazes.  As part-time Californians, we're proud that my adopted state has sent aid. High Chaparral in Montana, is -- knock wood -- free of fire this season, but much of Montana is sadly shrouded in smoke and flames. As a longtime fan of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, I'm thrilled to be back in Ashland -- for the fourth time with Keller.  Through the years, the festival has been a balm through good times and sad for the family.  I've purchased seats in the Angus Bowmer Theatre to honor both my late husbands, Bruce Meyers and Bill Jones, and am planning to honor my parents' memories there, too. Some of several loved ones' ashes are sprinkled in Lithia Park and Ashland Creek, and memories of my late sisters and our mutual love of theater surround me as I sit in the three splendid theaters, thrilled with each dimming of  the house lights. A family reunion, spurred by the wedding of Kira Cosgriffe and Mike Hill. I think of all I'm thankful for: family, fun, birds, friends, the Yorkies Nick and Nora, and of course theater.  I am grateful for a life of travel and the arts, for having some talents,  and for the ability to be generous, to take chances, to love. I am happy to be again strolling the village of Ashland, reprising dozens of visits.  We make our way up the hill to hike around much loved Lithia Park. I listen to bird song, look for deer and squirrels, feed the ducks. THIS BEAUTIFUL   PARK  opened in 1892, the year of my maternal grandparents' birth. They introduced me to the phrase "carpe diem."  And taught me the art of gathering those precious rosebuds! Cookie and Keller today on the grounds of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, celebrating life! NEXT UP : Ashland, Oregon, home to the internationally known Oregon Shakespeare Festival, is thrilling crowds with its stellar season of work in three beautifully designed theaters. Since the late 1950s, it has been part of Cookie's life. We share its wonders next Friday.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends for a unique twist on travel, nature, family and the arts.