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Hundreds of elephant seals -- once nearly extinct -- swim in a few weeks each year to breed on central California's coast. WONDROUS SIGHT: ELEPHANT SEALS LAZE, SHOW THEIR STUFF TO DELIGHT OF TOURISTS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER From a walkway far above their habitat, tourists from all over the globe observe the elephant seal habitat below. Volunteers have helped save the  elephant seal and create a lovely display with informative posters. NEARLY EXTINCT  at one time, the elephant seal is making a whale of a comeback. These female elephant seals far outnumber the more elusive males. As the seals surrender to dusk, a lovely sunset caps the day near San Simeon. There's something wonderfully joyous about gazing down at the beach to behold them stretched out on the sand. YOU'RE WATCHING a  rare sight: a veritable bounty of elephant seals at rest and play.  They groom themselves, snuggle and snooze.  You hear their calls, watch them romp and tend their young, and revel in the miracle of their existence. These beautiful creatures were nearly destroyed by man, but they're making an elephantine (pardon the pun) comeback.  By the way, they take their name not from their gigantic size but from their trunk-like inflatable snouts. We'd driven many times past the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, but didn't stop until a couple weeks ago while staying at our favorite Cavalier Motel overnight stop in San Simeon.  SUE, THE FRIENDLY  hotel check-in clerk, told us the elephant seals were "in" -- big news, because they spend between eight and 10 months of the year in the waters.  We drove north from the motel about 10 or so miles, enjoying California's lovely central coast. When we came upon a couple dozen cars, we knew we'd arrived at the viewing area, which spreads several miles 90 miles south of Monterey. IF YOU'RE  planning to visit Hearst Castle State Historical Monument in San Simeon, this is just a stone's throw, worth staying another half-day.  It's just over a mile south of Point Piedras Blancas. Viewing is open daily, wheelchair accessible, and free. We watched these beautiful creatures with families, campers and city folk -- an international crowd enjoying the seals at close range. The place is above sea and fenced off, to keep the insensitive from wandering too close. Spectacular way to spend a couple hours. Check to make sure they're "in" at California State Parks, or Friends of the Elephant Seal:    fes@elephantseal.org Inn by the Lake offers warm hospitality,pleasant views, nearby attractions.   UP NEXT:  Lake Tahoe beckons, with a pet-friendly motel that offers a great cup of coffee and old-fashioned service. Then a cruise on the lake offers dancing, romancing, spectacular scenery and fine fare. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday when we post for the weekend. Jenn Paredes, Paige Lindsey White and Susan Denaker play three very different women in "Rapture, Blister, Burn." BEST BET:  San Diego Repertory Theater has made its reputation on cutting edge, thought provoking drama. The latest production is no exception. Catch "Rapture, Blister, Burn" before it closes May 15. The thought provoking play by Gina Gionfriddo (House of Cards") is the finale of the Rep's bang-up 40th season. Smart, funny, insightful study of feminism its ripples, circles and adjustments over the last half century.

ENJOY THE REAGAN LIBRARY FOR A WELL ORCHESTRATED TRIBUTE TO A DEDICATED PRESIDENT Flowers are left at the foot of Reagan's bronze each day, a docent told us.  During the weeksafter Nancy Reagan's recent death and burial on the site, the number of bouquets grew. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The approach to the Reagan Presidential Library is typically "southern California" with a lovely fountain, mosaic tiles and nicely kept gardens. HIGH ATOP a Simi Valley hill, with a view stretching to the Pacific he loved to admire, our 40th President's final resting place lures millions of tourists. The Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum is a popular diversion for locals and, as we recently saw, for visitors from all over the world. WE WERE  among a recent full house to pay our respects to the colorful and charismatic world leader, spending a pleasant and informative afternoon perusing his 100,000-square foot memorial. Its 24 wide- ranging galleries include a full-sized replica of the Oval Office as he and Nancy decorated it, and the actual Air Force One aircraft used by Reagan and six other presidents as their "Flying White House." Keller prepares to board Air Force One,  the actual plane which carried Reagan  and other presidents around the world. WE ARE  far from die-hard Republicans, but then Reagan himself dabbled a bit in the "pick your party" game.   Raised in a Republican neighborhood in Illinois, by liberal Democrat parents, he was a Democrat himself until age 50. So his politics was not an issue in our decision to visit this lovely and historic site. (We've visited others of the 13 Presidential libraries, which began with President Franklin D. Roosevelt. This is by far the most impressive.) You can join Reagan for a horseback ride, as Cookie did, in one exhibit. Our favorite sentimental parts of the eclectic and well curated display had to do with the relationship between Ronnie and Nancy.  Everyone knows that she was instrumental in grooming his political career, and in influencing decisions -- large and small -- that shaped his career both as governor and as president. The Berlin Wall's history is documented. Visitors number in the millions, but the museum does not feel crowded. Here people cue up to step inside the actual Air Force One Reagan used. SOME OF THE NOTES  he wrote to her are displayed, and many photos of the two together -- dancing at the inaugurals, riding horseback, visiting world figures, including the Pope, and simply spending time together.  Their constant and abiding love and affection is one of the enduring legacies the couple left.  Their amazing partnership is a touching part of the library, which they both helped create and which she refined and enhanced after his death in 2004.  Mrs. Reagan's candor in her long, devoted care of her husband through his 10-year decline is also noted.  And among the famous photos and newsreels are several of the Reagans after the attempt on his life.   Here, a dummy sits in the Air Force One office, where Reagan worked. Our favorite "history" parts of the museum had to do with Reagan's international role in forging a path of peace.  His impassioned appeal to "tear down that wall" echo in the display about Berlin. The Reagan Museum also features lectures and changing exhibits. Currently on show is "Vatican Splendors," a splendid collection of Vatican art. BEST BETS:  If you are anywhere near Old Town, San Diego, and Cygnet Theatre, don't miss "The Rocky Horror Show," which ends its nearly sold-out run extended to Saturday, May 7. Fabulous, energetic production of this cult favorite. And at Northcoast Repertory Theatre in Solano Beach, Calif., "Way Downriver," is a thoughtful, entertaining adaptation of a provocative William Faulkner story. David Ellenstein directs the cutting edge work, held over through May 15. Both of these unique productions prove that great art has staying power. Next up, we visit a unique elephant seal preserve on the gorgeous central California coast.  Sean Murray, left, plays a delightful Frank 'N' Furter, in Cygnet's "Rocky Horror Show," closing soon. Above, Geno Carr, Richard Baird and Sara Fetgatter star in Northcoast Repertory Theatre's "Way Downriver." Both terrific.     MOVIE BUFFS , too, we enjoyed the segments and "pick a movie" displays, where one can cue up clips from his films -- from "Santa Fe Trail" to "Bedtime for Bonzo" to "Knute Rockne, All American," in which Reagan's character explains to his coach that he is not afraid to die, asking that the team "win one for the Gipper." Appropriately, "Gipper's Grove" features 43 meticulously groomed crepe myrtle trees.

The Point Arena Lighthouse has history dating back to 1870 when the original lighthouse was erected. Point Arena Lighthouse includes lodging and a nice gift shopwith handmade aquatic-life magnets. The views are stunning. NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COASTAL TOWN OFFERS HISTORIC LIGHTHOUSE, FUN FOOD, ZEBRAS AND  WELCOMING COTTAGES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PEOPLE COME  from cross-country and overseas to visit the historic Point Arena Lighthouse in California's picturesque Mendocino County. The view from the top of the Point Arena Lighthouse is spectacular . They climb gamely up the 1870 landmark -- stopping to rest and admire the view at the four convenient landings.  Then they browse the gift shop and study the museum's unique contents.  With luck, they catch a glimpse of a passing pod of dolphin or a transiting whale. We had such good fortune on a recent visit, one of many we've made through years of driving from our southern California winter base to Mendocino County. LIKE MANY  small coastal towns, Point Arena is proud of its place in California's history and landscape. On the north end of the town is the historic lighthouse which also offers lodging with spectacular views.  At the other is a pier where you'll see fishermen haul in today's catch, stopping for a bowl of chowder or tasty fresh fish and chips (and an impressive collection of beer and ale.) A gift shop browser narrows her choice from a selection of marine life magnets. This tiny fishing town is built around a small harbor. It offers fun shops and a rugged beauty that many consider tops on the California coast. POINT ARENA'S main street is located on the always alluring Highway One, California's coastal artery. The user-friendly village sports some buildings in need of repair. But other restored vintage homes and offices reflect pride of ownership.  It's a comfortably walkable little place where you'll be welcome in the neatly kept library. There we were invited to use our laptops to meet a story deadline.  We appreciate the pleasant, quiet environment.  Locals strolled in to check out the latest best-sellers and use the computers. Old-fashioned welcomes and friendly banter are a way of life in Point Arena. THE TOWN  also has a historic theater, a pleasant city park, well used bike path and an array of eye-catching Victorian and  Queen Anne buildings. A beautiful French lens is a highlight of the Point Arena Lighthouse museum. The lighthouse has a colorful history.  If your schedule permits, consider staying over. Point Arena has several interesting options but one stands out: the Lighthouse cottages. We were based with relatives on a nearby farm, but we're hoping to stay next visit in one of these cozy homes. Cozy lodging at the Lighthouse offers spectacular views. Enterprising lighthouse director Mark Hancock is developing guest houses from buildings no longer needed for staff in this computer age. One of the pleasantly decorated cottages is pet friendly, and the views! Wow. In its day, the Point Arena Lighthouse was manned 24 hours a day by a revolving staff.  Today, their homes have been converted into attractive guest houses on the coast.  THE SHINING star of Point Arena is the lighthouse itself, and its fascinating small museum.  A Fresnel lens (pronounced "Fre-nel," with a silent "s") has a prominent place. The lens, named after its inventor, was retired more than 20 years ago, but remains an attraction because of its superb craftsmanship and ability to concentrate light into a powerful beam. Its glass lenses bend and amplify the light source giving ships at sea better light for coastal navigation. "Far out," as we said in the 1970s. Our guide gave detailed descriptions of the lens, along with lively lighthouse history. He recounted the damage wrought by the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, which sent ripples 130 miles north to Point Arena, and beyond. POINT ARENA is a treasure trove of the unexpected.  Don't miss the B Bryan Preserve with its amazing array of African hoof stock, including endangered zebra, giraffe and antelope. How wonderful to see these magnificent animals in large, open fields. The Lighthouse, though, heads the "must see" list. The Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum offers an intimate and well orchestrated look at the life, times, challenges and accomplishments of the 40th President. UP NEXT:  Even those who did not vote for Ronald Reagan admit to being charmed by his gregarious nature, his genuine people skills, his diplomatic acumen and his rise from college football star to Hollywood actor, to California governor then President of the United States. The Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum on a lovely 100-acre site in Simi Valley brings the 40th President back to life in beautifully designed displays and hands-on exhibits.  We take it in, including a chunk of the Berlin Wall he helped bring down -- and the Air Force One he traveled in. Remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

Travelers' testimony: Happy people exist everywhere -- just look around Young Japanese girls enjoy a stroll in Tokyo's temple filled Asakusa area. They show off their kimonos, greeting Cookie. Cookie communes with a grandmother in a small village in the Mekong    Delta, Vietnam. The two talked about eggplant as she showed her garden. “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.”  –  Mark Twain STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AFTER A MONTH on the road in Southeast Asia and now a week in Japan, we've been surrounded by happy, gracious people. We've been offered tea, directions, dried insect snacks and a pair of month-old puppies. (The latter was tempting because we miss our Yorkies.) A tourist from Singapore meets Keller at a Buddhist temple in Vietnam. “Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.”   –  Miriam Beard WE'VE TRAVELED  by train and tuk-tuk, elephant and rickshaw, cruise ship, taxi, bicycle, sampan, barge and junk.  We've flown five airlines on seven flights -- from San Diego to San Francisco, across the Pacific to Singapore and Vietnam, to Bangkok, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Above right, from left, Sue, Cookie, John and Keller enjoy a tuk-tuk ride in Bangkok, while left, a Thai mother and child illustrate international traits: a parent's enthusiasm, a child's fatigue and perhaps indifference. We've met legions of happy and content people in the five countries -- 15 towns and villages --we've been privileged to visit. Vietnamese girls embrace Cookie on a shopping spree. What binds our fellow humans is simple.  They like their lives, are proud of what they do. We travelers exhibit that quality on which Blanche Dubois relied: "the kindness of strangers." Our hosts have shown appreciation, curiosity, patience. We've tried to do the same. Travel forces one to trust -- in strangers, in safety of  the new, in the joy of discovering surprising foods or drinks, the pleasure of different ways of doing things. So we travelers cast aside the familiar and comfortable, and stretch. From Hong Kong to Saigon to Bangkok, scooters are popular transport. Who knew, for instance, that a favorite Japanese candy has pork flavoring in it, or that a sack of dried grasshoppers has the same amount of protein as a fried egg. THE BASIC things that bind us as humans are the same. We love our families, breathe the same air, eat, sleep, travel, dream. Whether selling kimonos or maple pancakes, leading a tour to yet another temple, explaining the workings of a gallery or restaurant, or ushering a group through a private home, our hosts have smiled, bowed, offered beverages, shared a slice of life. Paolo from the Philippines befriended Cookie and Keller aboard Celebrity's Millennium, with cocktails each evening. “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”   –    St. Augustine THE PEOPLE  we have met have run the gamut from retired, wealthy and carefree, to financially challenged, even poor. Some live three generations in tiny homes. Others know only mansions and five-star hotels. The simplest homes we visited were immaculate. The people who've served us, cleaned our rooms and prepared our cabins were proud. Our fellow travelers on lounge floors, tour boats, cruise ship suites, dim sum street stalls, and concerts showed respect and curiosity. I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” –    Robert Louis Stevenson Hong Kong Harbour, one of the world's busiest, sports the world's only working junks. COMING UP : On the waterfront. We've traveled the waters of major Asian cities, and sailed and rowed in small villages. We look at the beauty of small boats, cruise ships, ferries, a floating restaurant and an endangered Chinese junk. Come along  for the ride, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend at whereiscookie.com

This buffalo is probably happy to be on Santa Catalina, not freezing his hide off in Yellowstone Park this winter. BUFFALO SEQUENCES DIDN'T MAKE THE FILM,  BUT CATALINA'S BISON ARE STARS ON THEIR CALIFORNIA ISLAND  With the stunning Pacific Ocean as their backdrop, these bison roam, forage and take to the four-wheel roadways. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YEARS AGO , a Hollywood studio brought bison to Santa Catalina Island for a movie shoot. The film was an obscure western penned by Zane Grey, the colorful writer who lived on Catalina for years.  It apparently didn't impress critics or the public, for it's tough to find much info about it. And the bisons' role in the 1925 silent film? Well, their "ready for my close-up moment" didn't make it to the Oscars.  In fact, the bison scenes languished on the cutting room floor. And afterwards, 14 critters were left on the island, probably because they seemed content, and likely because it would have been costly to return them to the mainland, where they'd probably have a rougher life! Scrubby bush and prickly pear cactus are the habitat of the Catalina bison. So they did what bison do:  they ate, slept, wandered and reproduced! TODAY, THE  bison are thriving -- so much so that their numbers are kept in check by careful monitoring and birth control for fertile females. The bison are, indeed, part of the lure and lore of modern day Catalina..... They are, obviously, not native. But their charisma and ability to adapt have made them an item on the Catalina Island "visitor/must see" list for the better part of a century. The Zane Grey western, "The Vanishing American," has not a single bison in it and, according to researchers, the film terrain does not This bison is sorry he isn't in Catalina. He's in Yellowstone. even remotely resemble Catalina. WHAT IS KNOWN  is that  the bison herd grew over the decades, to upwards of 600. The bison now number about 150, in a program monitored by the Catalina Island Conservancy. And because the bison have become "stars" in Catalina's culture, the Conservancy has no plans to remove them from the island. The bison were to be part of a long ago Zane Grey movie. Movie critics collaborated on novel Our guide, with native American ancestry, reminded us that bison are revered by the Indian people. (He talked to the beasts, thanking them for allowing us into their home.  He even called a couple of the larger ones by name.) The Conservancy has developed a bison-care partnership with the Morongo Band of Mission Indians, the Tongva. 7,000 years ago, they were Catalina's original inhabitants. Some of the bison have been located to the colder climes of South Dakota. They're living out their lives on the Great Plains, on the Lakota's Rosebud Reservation -- where temperatures are at least 50 degrees average colder this time of year. As one comes down from the buffalo area, one sees the Pacific and a beautiful vista of Catalina's Avalon harbor. OUR KPBS station featured another solution for controlling the herd's growth.  In 2009, a Conservancy study determined that a herd of between 150 and 200 would be good for both the bison and the island. So the herd was given animal birth control to maintain the population at that ideal number -- around 150 animals. The goal of the birth control -- inoculation to females over two years -- is to maintain herd size. Normally, it would increase by 15% or more each calving season, so birth control keeps numbers manageable and bison healthier.  That makes for less environmental damage to the land. And because the vaccine is non-hormonal, it does not harm the critters or change their social structures, according to the conservancy's education office. It is also reversible after about a year, should research determine that the island can sustain greater numbers. For now, they're at home on the Catalina range. Catalina Island's Airport in the Sky is worth the drive when you're looking for bison. Also take in the Wrigley Gardens. Coming up:  We bid adieu to Santa Catalina  Island with a look at other treasures you might miss on a quick visit.  The Catalina Airport -- also known as The Airport in the Sky -- is a charming place where you can watch small craft taxi in and out on the top-of-the-world runway, find good Mexican cooking in the cafe, and stroll through a nicely marked garden.  Also, the Wrigley Botanical Gardens and Memorial to the generous philanthropist and bubble gum magnate is worth a few hours. It is home to 37 well maintained acres of native and specialty plants, plus a memorial with sweeping ocean views. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Friday late afternoon when we post for the weekend at: www.whereiscookie.com

GLITTER, GLAMOUR, ART, THEATER AND A FANTASTIC ORGAN CONCERT TO BOOT The historic Catalina Casino was built in record time and opened in 1929, a splendid, circular art deco masterpiece. Musician John Tusak, a gifted organist, plays for an hour before the movies, on Fridays and Saturday nights, at the world renowned Catalina Casino.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER DON'T EXPECT  to see buxom cocktail waitresses balancing their drink trays. You won't hear the click-click-click of the roulette wheel, or hear the squeals of delight. No large-screen football, or hundreds of slot machines at play. But Santa Catalina and its historic Casino are as much a spectacle as Las Vegas.   Instead of a craps table,  Bing Crosby was one of many to sail to Avalon from the mainland, to fish, enjoy the casino and sing a tune or two. the auditorium's centerpiece is a magnificent three-keyboard pipe organ, brilliantly played each weekend by John Tusak, at 6:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.  New films usually change Fridays for the next week's run. Check the website (below). Meaning of the word SOMETIMES  spelled with a double "s" the word, cassino can mean a place where cards are played. The Catalina Casino takes its name from that original meaning of the word: a building or room used for meetings, or public amusements, for dancing, gaming, and enjoyment. Revelers gathered throughout the '30s, '40s and 1950s, and today special events, weddings and new year's celebrations are staged. The meaning is honored today, since the Catalina Casino has been the focal point of Santa Catalina Island entertainment and culture for nearly 87 years.  It opened on May 29, 1929. Although its patron, chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr. lived only until 1932, his son Philip continued to make the building available for grand functions, and saw that continuing generations would enjoy world famous entertainers, Broadway productions, and first-run motion pictures there. The casino's beautifully designed auditorium hosts first-run movies, vintage film festivals, and each weekend, two spectacular, free organ concerts.  The movie theater, a masterpiece of art, is known for its perfect acoustics.  Tusak plays all the grand, old-time movie tunes -- including Gershwin, Berlin and Joplin  -- honoring the legacy of the Page Pipe Organ Company, the instrument's builder. First-run movies are shown nightly at 7:30 p.m., and Cusak entertains at 6:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, an hour before the film. Vintage film festivals are also staged from time to time. A dominating presence The lovely lobby of the Catalina Casino draws the visitor into a bygone era.   DOMINATING THE Avalon landscape from its regal perch at the edge of Avalon Bay, the casino exemplifies the style and romance of Catalina Island.   When Wrigley built it, the price tag was a then staggering $2 million. Its designers were internationally known architects, Sumner A. Spaulding and Walter Weber, whose completely circular building was the first of its day.  It was designed in the popular art deco, Mediterranean revival style. 'Lilian's Last Dance' recalls a bygone era A massive effort a few years ago restored the building to mint condition as a reminder of Catalina’s glorious past. The height of the building is 12 stories. Inside are a museum,   a main floor theater, an upstairs promenade and a 20,000 square foot ballroom which can accommodate up to 1,500 dancers.  THIS ELEGANT ROOM  is still the world’s largest circular ballroom without supporting pillars, enjoyed by revelers on New Year's Eve and other special times, including weddings and birthdays.  The beautifully preserved ballroom recalls a romantic time, when people dressed to the nines   Each seat in the auditorium has a little shelf beneath -- for the gentlemens' hats, of course!    to dance within a lavish medley of rose-hued walls, beneath an arching, 50-foot ceiling.   Five Tiffany-inspired chandeliers and an elevated stage grace the room with classic, raised seating areas around the dance floor. To toast the event, wander back to the vintage, full-service bar in the rear. A VISITOR'S DELIGHT VISITORS COME  to gaze at the ballroom -- the lucky ones score an invitation to a celebration, or spring for the famed New Year's Eve party. The auditorium is the place to see films -- both vintage and recent releases -- and the lobby is a place to simply soak up the beauty of another era. Beautiful trees, flowers and images of the nearby sea adorn the casnio's interior. The Casino hosts Catalina’s major indoor events, including the New Year’s Eve celebration, the popular Catalina Island Jazz Festival and Catalina Film Festival. Tours of the casino are available most days if no one has booked the place. Your personal jackpot comes in knowing a gorgeous, historic piece of history has been preserved -- and you're in it! www.visitcatalinaisland.com Bison roam Catalina, a remnant of a long forgotten film for which they were photographed. But the buffalo footage was cut from the movie. UP NEXT:   While we're in a "Catalina state of mind," did you know that the island is home to a herd of buffalo?  And that the bison had to be put on birth control to limit their reproduction? Years ago, Hollywood brought 14 bison to the island, used them in a film (their roles were cut in the editing!) then left them.  Now they're part of the lore and lure of a trip to Santa Catalina.  The island of romance is also the island of roaming buffalo. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Friday afternoons for our weekend post at www.whereiscookie.com .

These jellyfish -- as graceful as ballerinas -- attract viewers from all over the world, and of all ages at Aquarium of the Bay. A wondrous, eye-popping time awaits in the undersea tunnels. BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF FISH, MARINE LIFE, INCLUDING RAYS, JELLYFISH AND MORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT DOESN'T TAKE  much to bring out the kid in me. An aquarium takes a few decades off my age and behavior immediately.  From the get-go, I'm a kid again. Seals sun and nap in their own area, just outside the aquarium. The aquarium's Sea Lion Center is free, with presentations,too. Fish of all colors abound in the Bay. I love watching the marine life that lives beneath the surface of the waters.    The Aquarium of the Bay at San Francisco's Pier 39 is a wondrous, compact way to get up close and personal with the ambassadors of the waters. ON A ROLL  from our happy day at San Francisco Zoo, we brought our nature explorations to the underwater tunnels and byways of this small but beautifully arranged aquarium. A little mermaid enjoys an insider's view of marine life from a clever "bubble." We kidnapped my niece and her two budding naturalists, and set off for another day communing with other species. The aquarium's conveniently located at Embarcadero and Beach Street, at the edge of the famed Pier 39.  Its specialty is local aquatic animals from the San Francisco Bay and neighboring waters. Behind the scenes tours offer a chance to climb a catwalk above the tanks and learn about dive operations. And you can feed the sharks if you dare! IF I WERE  a kid, I'd convince my teacher to book the Sleepover at the Aquarium of the Bay. (It's available for enterprising school outings.) The graceful bat rays in one of the exhibits are able to be gently touched  with a single finger. They know when mealtime is near, and surface playfully. HELPFUL GUIDES  love to chat with visitors about the various displays.  One pointed out the octopus between the two tunnels -- a beautiful, reddish orange guy who seemed a bit shy and was nicely hidden by the coral and plantlife. Contented aquarium goers leave Pier 39, until next time. As we strolled through the exhibits, we listened for announcements, but didn't time things right to catch a presentation.  When we return, we hope to watch the sevengill shark feeding, then wander to the tidepool area to see what crabs, sea anemone, worms and small fish like for lunch! We did enjoy a stroll to the free seal haunt just out the door. Check out the latest on our book tour  A "Sharks of Alcatraz" talk is scheduled daily, along with "Otter Chat" near the home of these delightful, fast-moving river divers.  And "8 Arms, 9 Brains," near the octopus gallery sounds fascinating (see it daily at high noon.)  THE AQUARIUM'S  thrust is on education, grooming the next generation of young marine-life lovers to be proper sea stewards. What a bittersweet thrill to leave, having spent the day with 20,000 other creatures -- and that's just the ones in the tanks and tunnels! www.aquariumofthebay.org Actors Manny Fernandes and Carla Harting are delightful playing two old friends and sparring neighbors who eventually yield to their attraction.  UP NEXT: A love story with a brogue. "Outside Mullingar" is playing southern California at the renowned San Diego Repertory Theatre. It's a charming love story with a bite, featuring four gifted actors, a talented musical trio to get your toes tapping, deft direction, and the lyrical writing of Oscar and Pulitzer-Prize-winner John Patrick Shanley ("Doubt" and "Moonstruck.") Preview it here at whereiscookie.com , then book tickets to put you in a Valentine's Day frame of mind and heart. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us late Friday, when we post our weekend piece.

WALK WITH THE ANIMALS, WATCH THE LIONS DINE, ADMIRE A GIRAFFE PAINTING PICTURES The Lion Habitat Ranch is a wonderfully run operation where you can get up close and personal with these gorgeous lions.  TAKE AN EDUCATIONAL BREAK TO COMMUNE WITH LIONS NEXT TIME YOU'RE IN VEGAS AT LION HABITAT RANCH STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Families and nature lovers take a break from Las Vegas action to enjoy the Lion Habitat Ranch not far from the famous Strip, and a relaxing break. JUST A HALF-HOUR from the glitter of the Las Vegas strip, a fascinating haven for lions exists. Call it a proud pride! Far from the happy noise and chaos of Sin City, another kind of jackpot awaits the Vegas visitor. This heavenly enterprise is Lion Habitat Ranch, a non-profit endeavor spawned by Keith Evans and his wife Beverly.  They fell in love with the lions and share them with visitors in a wonderful quiet environment minutes from Las Vegas. A guinea fowl poses for the photographer. This beautifully cared for lion has a look at his viewers at the habitat. He was one of the MGM Grand exhibit lions before that closed. Our visit was a calming balance to the slots, lights and high-speed city life -- the essential but exhausting pace that draws us all to Las Vegas. THESE CONTENTED CATS are safe and sound at their 8.5-acre ranch, located about 12 miles from the Las Vegas Strip. On weekends, you can watch the lions romp, play, have lunch and rest. (They sleep more than 14 or 15 hours a day!) If some of the faces look familiar, that's because they were stars at their former habitat inside MGM Grand Hotel. For 11 years, the devoted Evans brought his big cats from the ranch to the hotel each day, carefully rotating them so visitors could enjoy the species every day without taxing any individual lion. THE LION , of course, has long been the symbol of MGM Studios in Hollywood.  We all remember the mighty roar at the beginnings and ends of movies. Bev Evans has spent years caring for lions. The lions, Evans was proud to say, never spent the night at the hotel, because he always returned them to his Ranch for shut-eye. And although the old location closed in January 2012, visitors can still enjoy these exquisite creatures at the non-profit Ranch. A giraffe who paints?  You betcha.  Here, a worker readies the brush. The gift shop sells Ozzie's beautiful, bold, one-of-a-kind paintings. (The Mirage, up the Strip, still hosts Siegfried and Roy's Secret Garden, a zoo-like animal sanctuary hosting tigers, lions, panthers and bottle nose dolphins.) Ranch workers said that MGM curtailed its lion exhibit because two lion shows in close proximity was too much to sustain.) PERHAPS THAT  was a good thing for Evans' enterprise. Now the lions don't have to be schlepped back and forth, and they live in a relaxed, clean, well organized operation.   Workers interact with ease -- on a three-fold basis: with one another, with the audience and with the critters. THE HABITAT  offers a learning experience, too.  As one strolls and pauses outside the expansive cages and runs, a subtle schooling is taking place.   Workers answer questions, sharing fascinating facts about the lions with which they've formed strong attachments. Ozzie's paintings are a big hit at the habitat gift shop.  The giraffe is not afraid of bold strokes, and seems to enjoy his creative bent. I hadn't realized that "the girls" do the hunting, along with caring for newborns. And African lions are social, too -- they take dinner together -- eating as a group, just as we humans do. They sleep well over 15 hours -- sometimes as much as 20 hours daily -- usually together in a big slumber party. WE WATCHED  them romp -- and run a bit.  In the wild, they can reach speeds of 40 miles per hour and jump as high as 13 feet. We saw several jumps on the cleverly arranged ramps and levels that Evans designed, to approximate the ledges and drop-offs the lions might have in their own environment. Mama lion, second from right, plays with her cubs after everyone has lunch. We also joined a group of other tourists to watch the lions eat.  Three trainers hand-fed them, each receiving several pounds of horse meat. The staff know the lions by name -- one group of siblings look similar to the novices among us, but one of the trainers tells them apart by the spots around the eyes -- one has two, one has three, etc. Fascinating. CARETAKERS  also spend hours each day keeping the lions looking spiffy --  free of burrs and grass -- beauty-shop gorgeous. To assure the lions look good, trainers shampoo them with baby shampoo, then blow-dry their fur. Evans calls it "the mane attraction." We were lucky in our timing to spend an hour with three trainers as they hand-fed the lions.  Then, frisky from a full tummy, they romped. It was thrilling to witness the cubs jump over mum and swat one another playfully. If you feel flush,  join other visitors for private three- or four-hour private lion sessions. Prices begin at $800, all to help keep the place open. A unique viewing "bubble" afford kids the opportunity to be under the sea. THE PAINTING  giraffe, Ozzie, is another delight.  He has been trained to connect his paintbrush to the canvas, and the results are charming, splashy works of art, for sale at the preserve, along with tastefully made hand jewelry.  Wonderful souvenirs. Don't miss an opportunity to journey out to this close-by Las Vegas wonder. You'll hit the jackpot. UP NEXT:  Come with us to a ring-side seat!  We'll dive under the sea, at the Bay Aquarium in San Francisco, where kids of all ages enjoy close-up views of marine life, in a small and user-friendly space.  Our "back to nature" series continues.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends and as the adventures take us, at www.whereiscookie.com .

Gauhati is one of many happy headliners at San Francisco Zoo. He wears down his horn by rubbing it on rocks in his enclosure. The zoo's attentive keepers and vet staff help him file and trim his horn to keep it growing and healthy. Giraffes play and romp on a spacious preserve. This one stretches to tree tops for food as a zebra grazes behind.  GRAB YOUR CAMERA, PACK A LUNCH, BORROW A KID OR TWO, HEAD FOR THE ZOO James Ganner, right, and sister, Penelope, enjoy the San FranciscoZoo for its "user friendly" aspects, here they take five on the lively playground.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Penguins dive, splash and swim about in an open-air exhibit. ZOOS HAVE  always been a relaxing place for our family.  The natural world offers insight and escape, drawing us together to study similarities and differences of the species -- to feel connected to other life and to cultivate appreciation for the planet's precious animal resource. Going to the zoo with kids is an enhancing way to gild the zoo lily. We did that recently with our niece, Amarylla, and her two little ones, James and Penelope Ganner. Zoo staff encourage children to gently touch the hide of the deer,  and explain that the antlers fall off each year. The zoo stresses education. At age five, James is already a regular, a fan of the zoo's charming steam train, "Little Puffer," and a natural tour guide and unabashed ambassador. WE'D SPENT  time at the San Francisco Zoo, but not for years. So it was wonderful to revisit this treasure in a treasured city. From the hills of its gorilla park, to attractive penguin display and regal peacocks who strut and preen, the zoo is a reminder that we share this fragile planet, a jewel to be cherished, visited, touted and supported. Amarylla Ganner with young Peny take photos of James at play, while  "Auntie Cookie" takes aim. San Francisco Zoo is a photographer's delight. As part-time San Diego residents, we know a good zoo. San Francisco's is one of the west coast's oldest, most varied and best loved. Founded in 1929, the lovely San Francisco Zoo sits on 100 well tended acres in the southwestern corner of the city, between Lake Merced and the nearby Pacific. MORE THAN  1,000 contented animals representing 250 species -- some endangered -- inhabit the user-friendly place, with wide paths, gorgeous mature trees and pretty landscaping, mostly native vegetation. James takes to the zoo's nicely arranged playground. Here kids learn socializing skills and get exercise. James has his favorite exhibits.  Besides the train -- which begins to attract a line at about 11 a.m. -- he loves the black rhino and hippo, the gorillas, the giraffes and ostrich roaming the attractive African Region. He delights in graceful lions, and yes, tigers, and bears.  As native Montanans, we enjoyed the grizzly, then watched the polar bear scratch her back on the ice. San Francisco inspires several chapters in novel WE DIDN'T GET  to every exhibit. My family -- loyal zoo members -- often visit the Children's Zoo, and gives it "user friendly" thumbs up. We spent an engaging half hour watching giraffes romp with ostrich, zebra and kudu.  Then James led us to the gorilla preserve, where we studied these animated and intelligent animals scratching, munching, tending their young and checking us out. Zoos can be controversial. But having traveled to Africa and the Amazon many times, and watched critter numbers decline from poaching, illegal logging and over-population, we commend zoos for the opportunity to study, learn from and save imperiled animals. THE SAN FRANCISCO ZOO  has made national news through the years. In early 2006, the zoo announced its offer to name a soon-to-hatch American bald eagle after comedian Stephen Colbert.  Publicity and goodwill garnered from coverage on the Colbert Report was a windfall for the zoo and the city of San Francisco. Stephen Jr. was born on April 17, 2006. We hope he's flying high -- he's been introduced back to the wild. Birds abound at the San Francisco Zoo, where nicely arranged exhibits and displays allow for close-up study and enjoyment. Another beautiful bald eagle, perhaps a flightless relative of Stephen, gazed at us from his tree perch on Eagle Island, a restful avian sanctuary. WHEN WE  asked about him, a zoo worker gave a detailed background on his flightless condition (he has only one wing and is a rescue, saved after being shot by a bow and arrow.)  How thrilling to see this magnificent creature close-up, as he sat in his tree, watching us watch him.  And lest you think, "How sad -- he should be flying" -- well, he can't.  And he would be dead without the San Francisco Zoo. So why not show what a beauty he is, and help groom environmental activism.                                                                                            Amarylla P. Ganner Photo THE SAN FRANCISCO Zoo is not pretentious, and that is one of its charms and strong suits. It wants people to learn something while enjoying the animals. There are guided tours and lectures throughout the day and feeding times with commentary.  Amiable, informed zoo workers mingle and are happy to answer questions.  The SF Zoo's Little Puffer scoots around the zoo, making a couple loops. Right, James and "Uncle Keller" enjoy the ride Strolling through a unique insect display and colorful collection of reptiles and amphibians, you peruse at your own pace in the company of like minded nature lovers. There's plenty of room, too, thanks to nicely arranged and groomed pathways, special features such as the train and lovely carousel, a welcoming and large cafe, the Leaping Lemur, and impressive variety of side shows and lectures. ZOO LIGHTS   at holiday time, is a delightful, eye-catching treat. The zoo's ambitious hours are every day, including holidays, so you can enjoy pandas, penguins, sea lions, tigers, flamingos, and even consider adopting one through the zoo's enlightened program. 415 753-7173; www.sfzoo.org Bev Evans and her husband Keith are devoted to lions. UP NEXT: Who knew? Not far from the glitter of the Las Vegas Strip, a fantastic lion preserve awaits. Have you heard of Lion Habitat Ranch? Or the painting giraffe? Visit a unique exhibit of well tended critters.  The lions, formerly from the MGM lion exhibit, which closed a few years ago, are a proud pride.  Owner Keith Evans works with his wife Bev to encourage appreciation and love of lions. Well trained staff offer a close-up look at these regal creatures -- plus a giraffe who paints.  You can buy one of his masterpieces! Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us weekends, and as the spirit moves.

The "Painted Ladies" near Alamo Square, San Francisco, California, represent an architecture used for Victorian and Edwardian houses and buildings painted in distinctive pastel hues. The term is over a century old. HEAD TO THE CITY BY THE BAY FOR VARIETY, FUN, WITH A FEAST FOR THE EYES AT EVERY TURN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "One day if I go to heaven ... I'll look around and say, 'It ain't bad, but it ain't San Francisco.'"      Herb Caen, noted San Francisco columnist who died in 1997.   The late Herb Caen, a symbol of elegance, smiling and raising a glass to his beloved San Francisco. THE LATE  Herb Caen loved his town like no one else and waxed about it in his colorful newspaper columns for 60 years. Boats on Fisherman's Wharf await tourists, residents, an international crowd. Tourists from all over the world have  their photos taken on Union Square.  "A city is not gauged by its length and width, but by the broadness of its vision and the height of its dreams," he proudly said, of his city, San Francisco. I happened to be in one of my favorite cities when he passed.  San Francisco was Caen's home for most of his life (April 3, 1916 – February 2, 1997) and he was honored by San Francisco Chronicle writers and thousands of readers in the next few days. It was wonderful and touching to follow the tributes. SAN FRANCISCO  truly has vision, and she has always dreamed. Her whimsical cable cars, "crookedest street," unusual architecture (Trans-America Pyramid, one of many), bridges, the bay, the parks, landmark sites such as Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39 and Union Square, unique art and gardens, bistros, bars and theaters all speak to what Caen meant when he joked that heaven might be nice, but it wouldn't be San Francisco. Much of the city's charm came from the "rebuilding" after the 1906 earthquake and fire. It re-invented itself in an imaginative, eye-catching way. In my many visits to San Francisco, I understand Caen's pride in the town he called home. Nick and Nora join us for sun and people-and-dog watching, while we enjoy coffee and pastry on Union Square.  Writer's novel takes place partly in San Francisco, click here EVEN Off-SEASON , in winter, San Francisco has an elegance about her. And it's dog friendly. My family loves San Francisco.  My sister Peny and brother-in-law Jim settled in northern California in the 1970s, and now a nephew and his partner ranch there. Plus a niece and her family live in Redwood City, so we often visit, always making discoveries. The "Bard of the Bay," Mr. Caen, loved his city for its vibrancy, beauty, variety.  He loved its enthusiasm, daring and fearless embrace of the new, while honoring the old. Tony Bennett made his name, with a song about San Francisco.   The Trans-America Pyramid is one of San Francisco's many unique, eye-catching structures. Caen loved the city's famous "Painted Ladies," by Alamo Square, those picturesque, expensive pastel Victorian and Edwardian houses. HE DOTED ON  the fabulous food -- from Indian to Asian to Greek, Italian, French and barbecue -- all befitting the Pier 35 on the center of the action near Fisherman's Wharf. culinary mix prepared by and for the town's ethnic melting pot. To gourmands, that makes San Francisco appealing. The clam chowder in sourdough bread bowl withstands time's test. CAEN WROTE  about the city's grand hotels. We love the Hyatt on Union Square, the stately St. Francis, the Fairmont where we heard Duke Ellington years ago, and the "Top of the Mark" Hopkins, now owned by InterContinental. We love Diva for its spirit and recently tried a fun new one, the Zephyr. It thinks big -- like San Francisco -- rising from the old Raddison on Beach Street, to cover an entire city block, all in a nautical theme (some of the rooms look out on the bay through portholes.) Thumbs up: Bruce Keller and great-nephew James Ganner enjoy the San Francisco Zoo train. Wee James is a regular. Caen wrote about that bay -- the ships which sail it, the people who work in the port, the prison on Alcatraz and its long-gone denizens and wardens. He wrote proudly about the many films made in hilly, distinctive San Francisco. Whoever said "less is more" didn't understand San Francisco's big, bold approach to life where, happily, anything goes. CHECK OUT  CityPASS for San Francisco highlights -- the trolley, cable car, aquarium and other "must see" attractions, at a significant savings. We love CityPASS!  CityPASS info COMING UP : The San Francisco Zoo is a wonderful place, for kids of all ages.  From giraffes to lions and a fun steam train, it's popular year round. What makes a zoo appealing, and how does the San Francisco zoo rank for our two worldwide zoo watchers? High ratings and a fun ride coming up next at whereiscookie.  We look for adventure as we travel the world for food, family, frolic, the arts and the natural world. Enjoy, learn and live!

A walk through Gran Canaria  resulted in Cookie and Keller being invited to participate in a nativity. TAKE A HOLIDAY BREAK WITH A PLAY, CONCERT, NATIVITY, BOOK -- OR A SAIL WITH THE WHALES Lady Gaga and Tony Bennett are dressed for the holidays, in concert and in a fun Barnes and Noble commercial. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SINCE CHILDHOOD , the holiday has for me meant plays, movies, and, of course, the famous "Nutcracker." The story of the Christmas toy that comes alive -- of wondrous travels and journeys of the imagination -- surely influenced my lifelong love of travel. San Diego  Ballet's "Nutcracker" entertained the writer during many years of reviewing theater and the arts.--                                                                               San Diego Ballet photo I've seen and reviewed "The Nutcracker" 50 times -- in as varied a roster of productions as the Bolshoi in Moscow and the Alberta Bair Theater in Billings, Montana, where San Diego Ballet's touring production used local dancers. FOR WHILE  I love traveling and theater all 12 months of the year, my two favorite pursuits are  particularly satisfying during the holidays. One memorable Christmas, Santa came by our Bora Bora cottage and tossed candies from his kayak onto  the porch of our beachfront hale. Another time, we left our ship and walked into a village in Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands. We stopped at a nativity, listened to carolers and became wisemen for a few minutes at the invitation of the locals! Get in the holiday spirit with a concert -- we saw Lady Gaga last holiday  season, here in a Christmasy red gown, and playful with the trumpeter. ANOTHER CHRISTMAS  found us in Santa Barbara on a whale watching adventure. Fantastic to do something different on a holiday.  Nothing like gilding the lily. Or spend an hour in a book store -- great gift ideas, and you might bump into Lady Gaga and Tony Bennett! Embrace the crowds, noise and activity. People are dressed merrily, smile more, enjoy being seen and seem generally more generous, forgiving and patient.    SOME O F my favorite holidays have been spent on the road -- Fiji, Moscow, the South Pacific, Asia, and here in America, with loved ones in Atlanta, northern California and Montana, always with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora, in tow. Get outside your comfort zone this holiday -- maybe don a wet suit and go play with the whales. by day, then take in a concert or play at night. They love the holidays, too, and usually acquire a few new toys -- and plenty of holiday Greenies for snacks. WE RECOMMEND  a happy dose of whale watching followed by a visit to a theater or concert hall to add spice to the holidays.  See a cultural event, movie or "The Nutcracker."  Here in the San Diego area, we have a half-dozen "Nutcracker" options  California Ballet Company’s glittering production at the Civic Theatre heads the line-up of "Nutcracker" options in San Diego County, performing this weekend, Saturday and Sunday, Dec. 12 and 13. HORNBLOWER  has whale watching and holiday dinner cruises -- a perfect double-header for me is an outing on the ocean followed by "Nutcracker." YOU MIGHT  consider a musical.  Nearly every town in the free world -- city or village --  has a Christmas pageant or concert.  Here in San Diego, we enjoyed Cygnet Theatre's "A Christmas Carol" with  Sean Murray's clever musical weavings of traditional carols into the story. COMING NEXT:   We ushered in the holiday at the world famous Catalina Casino recently, complete with a Christmas tree atop its 10-story fame. Catch us weekends while you're remembering to explore, learn live! "This Wonderful Life" is on tap at North Coast Repertory Theatre, a smart, snappy one-man show with all the familiar voices and characters of the beloved Jimmy Stewart and Donna Reed movie, "It's A Wonderful Life." AND THERE'S  San/Diego Symphony's popular pops concert, next Sunday, at 2 p.m. at Copley Hall. Here in San Diego, we have the fabulous Gay Men's Chorus, gospel and blues concerts, Hanukkah songs and more. The Gay Men's holiday show is this Saturday at 8 p.m. and Sunday at 3 p.m. at the Balboa Theatre downtown San Diego. http://www.sdgmc.org/tickets-events/ http://www.cygnettheatre.com/show/14-15/a-christmas-carol.html http://sandiegotheatres.org/the nutcracker/ http://purchasing.sandiegosymphony.org/   http://www.northcoastrep.org/season/wonderful_life.html

The view from Mystic View Cabins near Fishtail is spectacular, with the beautiful Beartooths right out the door. QUIET, QUAINT CABINS INVITE RELAXATION, EXPLORATION IN SECLUDED RURAL MONTANA A rustic motif awaits guests at Mystic View Cabins, with books and games to entertain visitors of all ages.  Owners Jerry and Sheri Cross are your hosts. Each cabin includes a welcome with brochures, suggestions and contacts.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE HAD  an overflow of about 15 people at the weekend's family reunion when the RSVPs came in. So a couple months ago, I started researching vacation rentals in our area in the remote Beartooth Mountains. We found an idyllic place in Mystic View Cabins, where part of the Cosgriffe Clan stayed for two peaceful, nature-nudged nights. Owners Jerry and Sheri Cross have poured lots of love, toil and tenderness into the four cabins near Fishtail. A full kitchen and plenty of sleeping await in the large A-frame. Artist and originator of the Day Time Planner, Rick Cosgriffe, right, visits with owner Sheri Cross at Mystic View Cabins. Named for the elk, moose and deer that inhabit the countryside, the artfully decorated cabins have a rustic, comforting appeal. The price is reasonable -- about $125 for the large A-frame cabin for four people, plus $10 per each additional person. Each cabin has a full kitchen, comfy beds and pretty views. From the cabins, you can walk or ride a horse, enjoy the vistas of the gorgeous Beartooth Mountains, rest, read, soak up the quiet. "We've tried to make people welcome," says Sheri, who comes from Illinois. (Jerry is a native New Yorker.) The couple has had the cabins for three years, working full-time to create the enterprise and get the word out. LOCATED on Jules Way, about 12 miles out of Fishtail on the West Rosebud Road, if you approach from the West, you'll come via Fiddler Creek. (The two roads intersect.) The cabins accommodate from two to 10 guests. Check Mystic View out on Facebook, or call 406 321-3103. E-mail: crossj@hotmail.com A hummingbird pauses at High Chaparral to enjoy a drink of sugar water. COMING UP :    Birds of a feather.  Never have we seen such fantastic bird life in our little nook of the Northern Rockies.  Come with us to enjoy the bounty, from raptors to hummingbirds. And buntings, flickers, grosbeaks and much more. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com