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Artist Aki Narita calls her room design "Geisha Goldfish" incorporating two favorite elements of the Japanese culture. Art floor celebrates Japanese culture -- book a hotel room to enjoy the view of your own art show The approach to Park Hotel Tokyo leads one through lovely gardens. A plaque in each art room gives details about the artist, here Aki Narita (see above). STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONE ROOM  feels like an underwater hideaway, with red geishas and floating koi -- giving the geisha's role in Asian culture an aquatic-laced nod. Artist Kazuki Mizuguchi's "Castle" room is underway, celebrating earlier  days of Tokyo's famed Royal Palace in shogun time. Down the hall, an artist labors over an elaborate homage to the Edo Dynasty. His feudal Tokyo of the 1700s shows stately shogun castles with gold and glitter. The Aki Kondo room, "Ota fuku Face," cleverly incorporates the room decor, including mirror and lights, into the artwork. Another room celebrates the carp, while nearby the fleeting beauty of Japan's fabled cherry trees is transformed to walls and ceilings. Down the hall, the "LuckyCat" chamber celebates the feline's charm. STILL OTHER  artful rooms feature dragons, sumo wrestlers, the horse, the bath house, Mt. Fuji, the ocean's bounty -- all revered in Japanese culture, and all artfully presented. Park Hotel Tokyo's unique art floor -- high above the city -- features 18 rooms created  by individual craftsmen and women.  The project is unique to Tokyo, and the world, as it celebrates the diversity, vision and excellence of a thriving city's artists. From tasty east-meets-west breakfast to evening cocktails, the Park Hotel's lobby is a relaxing gathering place. Hiroko Otake's "Cherry Blossoms" celebrates the culture's love of the tree. Park Hotel Tokyo opened in 2003 and several years ago took a daring, expensive step. It shows art in its lobby, on walls and in guest rooms. AS THE FIRST  Japanese hotel affiliated with the international Design Hotels group, Park Hotel Tokyo integrates refined architecture and quality hospitality with unique interior design, sculpture, displays and huge digital, high-tech projected art shows. Each Design Hotel reflects its culture and place. Yuko Matsubra and Emi Sotome work with the project, initiated in 2012, and are proud of its unique charm, popularity and evolution. THE HOTEL'S   in-house design committee reviewed applications, choosing artists whose work celebrates nature and the culture's gift for integrating it into life. "All four seasons are present in the rooms, with a variety of color and emotion," says Matsubara. "The rooms touch the beauty of the soul, and we hope refresh mind and body much as a museum visit does," adds Sotome. THUS FAR , 18 rooms on the 31st floor are completed. The entire floor will be done, attracting businessmen, and both Asian and western tourists to bustling Shiodome Media Tower in which the hotel is located (from the 25th-floor lobby, on up, up, up.) "Yokai" by artist Nobuo Magome celebrates folklore. We enjoyed the figures of supernatural powers, which are well known elements of Japanese culture. The art floor isn't the only attraction. Regular art shows are held in the hotel's lovely lobby, and the bar's and restaurant's presentations are artworks in themselves.   (We enjoyed both Japanese and western breakfast with visitors from France, Ireland, Australia and other Asian countries.) We met a delightful Italian bartender at the chic, internationally popular bar, and sampled delectable Japanese pastry in the bakery. There's also a business center, gym and spa. PARK HOTEL  is a quick walk from Shinbashi Station, and close to both the famed Tsukiji Fish Market and much admired Tokyo Tower, which we watched from our room designed by artist Nobuo Magome.  That is when we weren't studying the whimsical   ghosts, phantoms and apparitions in this charming art floor room. Marlee Cluff sings at Purple Martin Farm near Point Arena.  The gifted child died April 7, and whereiscookie,com pays tribute to her life and legacy next. COMING UP:      Sudden death is difficult, but when a young person is taken unexpectedly, the pain is both severe and shocking. Nine-year old Marlee Rebecca Cluff passed away during our visit this week to Mendocino County. We enjoyed our short time with this "old spirit" musical muse who sang big band tunes and knew the constellations.  We knew Marlee through our nephew, James, and his partner, Kelle, who live on Purple Martin Farm near Point Arena, Marlee's home.  She died after a heroic lifetime struggle with congenital heart problems.  After many surgeries, her valiant little heart gave out. We pay tribute to Marlee and family next Friday. Our specialty is travel with a twist -- as we put a personal stamp on each situation we visit.

UNIQUE AUSTRALIAN ARTWORK JAZZES UP MELBOURNE'S HIDDEN VENUES The variety and caliber of Melbourne's graffiti varies greatly, but the center portrait especially caught our eye. Bruce Keller poses with an enchanting mural painted on a Melbourne, Australia, alley wall.  Above right, Cookie listens while a guide shares fascinating tidbits about her city.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE ALL  know the sadness and frustration of seeing a beautiful wall, bridge or fence blighted by graffiti. Tasteless, vulgar, even obscene sometimes. The hallways and arcades of downtown Melbourne are admired for beautiful mosaics, elegant arches. In Block Arcade, Cellini Melbourne offers fine jewelry and silver.   Why would anyone mar something old, historic, beautiful? But in Melbourne, Australia, graffiti is art. Okay. It's not all art -- it's not all  beautiful, provocative, funny or moving. But often, it's one or more of those. Entrepreneur Fiona Sweetman devised the idea for Hidden Secrets Tours. Her passion is to share the best of Melbourne with curious travelers. SHE INTRODUCED us to a brilliant Israeli-born guide on our recent seven-week adventure Down Under and Beyond. We gave her a rousing ovation for our three hour adventure. Our tour focused on "lanes and arcades" and took us on a lively four-kilometer stroll through Melbourne's heart -- the downtown. We began at the beautiful Federation Square and finished a few blocks away, after looping up, down and around a seven-block area.  We popped into lovely hallways, alleys, candy shops, jewelers, bakeries, cafes, flower shops, clothing stores and art galleries -- even a store specializing in honey made from bees encouraged to visit Melbourne rooftops. The honey is some of the most delicious we've tasted anywhere. We sampled a half-dozen kinds, all rich and flavorful -- made by bees lured by savvy businessmen and women to the very roof above the honey shop! AS WE EXPLORED  the city, we learned about Melbourne's history -- it's a fascinating one -- with lots of money and competition for jobs involving gold and wool.  Building in the heart of the city didn't begin until about 1835, so Melbourne is also a relatively new city. "The Fed," is Federation Square, right, in the heart of Melbourne, with a historic cathedral and train station just steps away. Chocolate is a huge draw in Melbourne, and its gorgeous arcades sport many shops. Below, a rooftop bee helps make the honey that Melbourne is known for worldwide. This very international metropolis is home to four million people from all over the world.  They brought their fondness for chocolate, coffee and spicy cuisine with them, so Melbourne remains a foodie's heaven, with chic new restaurants such as Collins Kitchen in the Grand Hyatt, and the Langham's venerable Melba, named after the famed opera singer Nellie Melba. THE MELBA  sets the standard for Melbourne's discriminating range of fine restaurants, serving up fresh veggies and meats with local flair. Victoria's fertile farmlands and the rich Tasman Sea provide freshness and quality. Hard to believe that now sophisticated Melbourne began as a rag-tag collection of tents and huts on the banks of the beautiful Yarra River. The river was used for bathing and drinking water but by the 1850s become polluted.  It became, in fact, the cause of an epidemic of typhoid fever which hit the town resulting in many deaths.  Though the Melbourne City Council opened the first city baths on 9 January 1860, people continued to swim and drink the river water. TODAY, THE RIVER  is still enjoyed by water sports enthusiasts and after the formal tour ended, we crossed the Yarra and strolled past several rowing clubs. Melbourne's attractive landscape is dotted with interesting architecture, including statuesque Art Deco buildings, neoclassical facades and contemporary towers. We climbed stairs, smelled curry and garlic butter, stopped into a fortune teller shop, sampled hot chocolate with cinnamon and subtle chili seasoning, then enjoyed a pick-me-up double shot of espresso over vanilla bean ice cream. THE GRAFFITI  was a constant in the walking tour.  Some times it nearly moved us to tears. Other times it made us smile. Melbourne is a city of art and greenery. The tour meets in Melbourne's exciting downtown, across from a vintage train depot and an imposing cathedral. Princes Bridge is one of Melbourne's several delightful bridges.  The modern, sleek aspects of Melbourne are complemented by its old-fashioned pups and small, village-like shops. THE INTERNATIONAL feel is provided by the enticing mix of immigrants from every corner of Earth, who flooded into what is now Australia's second largest city and picked it for "home."   The High Roller in Las Vegas beckons next at lilianslastdance. GET HIGH ON HIGH ROLLER  on the Las Vegas strip: Take a ride up, next time you're in Sin City. Up, up and away, to tower above the city in the High Roller. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com For fun pieces on theater, books, concerts and the arts, check out: www.lilianslastdance.com Elton John dresses the stage in new Vegas show

The view from the "see through" cable car is spectacular, with views on all sides and even through the floor. It's a stunning way to view the Blue Mountains, in beautiful Scenic World.  Then rest, recharge and enjoy the view at lovely Mountain Heritage Hotel. All aboard the world's steepest train, for a short, thrilling ride. EYE-CATCHING KATOOMBA TOWN:MAGNIFICENT SCENERY, LOVELY HOTEL,FUN RESTAURANTS, THRILLING TIME AT SCENIC WORLD  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   IT IS A TRULY majestic place. Katoomba. The word sounds exotic -- and the place truly is! Christene "Cookie" Meyers is happy bird-watching  in the forest of Blue Mountains' Scenic World. Swirling otherworldly mists, steep streets lined with art-deco buildings, astonishing valley views, and a quirky miscellany of restaurants, buskers, artists, bawdy pubs and a classy, historic hotel awaits you. We took three days off from two weeks of city touring in Sydney and Brisbane.  The plan was to spend two or three days in lovely Katoomba, using it as a sanctuary, a respite,  between those two busy attractions. WE INDEED found peace and tranquility in Katoomba, plus spectacular scenery that can't help but inspire. Katoomba is a picturesque place, the chief town in the captivating Blue Mountains of New South Wales, Australia. It's a great choice for a weekend or a mid-week get-away. So with friends, we headed out from Sydney via train on a Wednesday, spending the rest of the week and returning Saturday.  Our friends had booked the same inn for a couple days, the lovely Mountain Heritage Hotel and Spa. What makes it a great weekend place are its multiple charms:  Gourmet fare is artfully served  at Mountain Heritage's fabulous restaurant. Here, rare beef. Posed by the stately Mountain Heritage Hotel, Bruce Keller and  "Cookie" enjoy a few scenic days of relaxed touring in Katoomba . There’s something for everyone in Katoomba, from waterfalls the daring can swim under, to lovely sunset spots, a craft brewery and the world’s steepest railway. Our room at Mountain Heritage Hotel overlooked the beautiful Blue Mountains . Katoomba is in the heart of the World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains. We found it an inviting place to take those few days off from nearly three months of hectic touring. Scenic World is a huge part of the draw. WE SETTLED in Hotel Mountain Heritage, an imposing place perched on the edge of a ridge, 300 meters from the heart of Katoomba’s town centre. It's a bit of a walk, but a beautiful one, slightly uphill. We chose it for its charm, history, word of a fabulous restaurant (it's true!) and panoramic views of the World Heritage listed Blue Mountains.  Sydney to Katoomba by train is a comfortable, interesting way to see the countryside. This delightful inn has a well trained and friendly staff, a huge bowl of apples to welcome, a full-service bar, grand piano and antiques and historic photos throughout the comfortable lounge areas and rooms. The hotel captures the charm of the past, but with modern amenities. It's a grand, old-fashioned place, a stately one-time hunting lodge turned pampering hotel with one of the best restaurants we encountered in five visits to this vast and varied country. Katoomba's shops are colorful with a mix of imports from all over the Pacific and India. Christene "Cookie" Meyers plays the grand piano at Mountain Heritage Inn. With spectacular  attractions like Scenic World and its Three Sisters, Katoomba is a ''must" when you're planning an Australia itinerary. Particularly if you're in Sydney, you're within easy range so don't miss it. Our spectacular hotel and restaurant with its calming vibe had hospitality in spades, including  an invitation to play that beautiful vintage grand piano. Our short daily walks to the city revealed a thriving cafe culture, colorful boutiques and galleries galore. WE SPENT  our three days with  bird's-eye views of the valley, centering our time in Scenic World. It's like a "nature oriented Disneyland" where we descended into the Jurassic rainforest on the world’s steepest railway and hopped on the famous Skyway cable car for spectacular 360-degree views of waterfalls, lush foliage and rocky ledges. Katoomba's train station is small and in the town's center. Here, "Cookie and Keller" arrive. THE TOWN is an interesting mix of architecture and a steadfast endorsement of the welcoming spirit for which Australia is famous.  Shopkeepers greet you and people on the street are happy to give directions. Tourism is king. Hotels, restaurants, tour agencies and the town's fun double-decker bus rely on tourism, including conferences. Major draws are clean fresh air, spectacular flora and fauna, and a comfortable, temperate climate. Each town in the Blue Mountains region is filled with history, sights, culture and community spirit. This beautiful area awaits just hours from Sydney. The world's steepest rail ride awaits bravery at Scenic World . The glories of the town's natural attractions are not over-stated. Landmarks are remarkable. The dramatic "Three Sisters" sculptural peaks teeter over the Jamison Valley. The thrilling  Scenic World glass-bottom cable car and world's steepest railway are goose-bump inducing.  A stroll through the Jurassic rainforest is an invigorating way to spend hours Waterfalls are a large part of Scenic World's lure.   . WE JUMPED on the red double-decker Explorer Bus all three days, visiting sights dotted along the escarpment. One can also travel in a chauffeured vintage car with Blue Mountains Vintage Cadillacs. A Scenic World adventure can entertain for a day or two or  a week or more, depending on what you wish to see and do.  Young pals at the hotel  laced up their hiking boots to tackle the Golden Staircase on the Ruined Castle Walking Track. Maybe next time! If you're too tired to walk your bag from Mountain Heritage back to the train station, the hotel will call a taxi. We took advantage of that service. Fulfilled, rested and happy, we can't wait to return.  More information : mountainheritage.com.au/   scenicworld.com.au/ australiatrains.com/ At left, Kim Strassburger portrays Robyn and Milena S Phillips is Sharon in a provocative play at New Village Arts, Carlsbad . BEST ON THE BOARDS:   Two gifted actors star in an engaging production at New Village Arts in Carlsbad, north of San Diego. "The Roommate," by Jen Silverman, is a tenderly told story about two very different women thrust together by life. As their friendship deepens into dangerous territory, they examine their lives, weaknesses, strengths and values. Shades of "The Odd Couple" give humor to the story. Although it is laced with wit and humor, it is much more intricate than a sitcom. With fresh direction by Samantha Ginn, fast dialogue and fun music-and-dance interludes, the play offers a thought provoking look at life's intriguing paths and the circumstances that create unlikely but lasting friendships. Through April 23 at a recently expanded space, with an inviting lobby and many welcoming features. newvillagearts.org 760 284 4393. Sydney's a place where people dress up and have fun. It's a modern,exciting city, with a colorful past and plenty to share with visitors. Britain, this colorful city is one of the world's most diverse and prosperous, with a mix of East-meets-West culture. We take you to the harbor, the beaches, the famous bridge, beach and Sydney Opera House, with a look at how people live, what locals like and what tourists see. Then Fiji beckons, as it has to each of us many times since our first trips in the 1970s, long before we knew one another. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com Sydney's a place where people dress up and have fun. It's a modern, exciting city, with a colorful past and plenty to share with visitors. UP NEXT: Sydney. There's no other city like it. Settled by convicts sent to Australia from Great Britain, this colorful city is one of the world's most diverse and prosperous, with a mix of East-meets-West culture. We take you to the harbor, the beaches, the famous bridge, beach and Sydney Opera House, with a look at how people live, what locals like and what tourists see. Then Fiji beckons, as it has to each of us many times since our first trips in the 1970s, long before we knew one another. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

At Palm Springs Tram, the Coachella Valley spreads out in the far distance, looking from the mountain-top vista. Far below is the city of Palm Springs The tram is a great escape when temperatures in Palm Springs can climb to 120 degrees Fahrenheit.  It's 35-40 degrees cooler at this lovely vista.   TRAM RIDE YIELDS GORGEOUS VIEWING PLEASURES HIGH ABOVE PALM SPRINGS Layers are appropriate for Bruce Keller & Christene "Cookie"Meyers in late spring. By early May, the park is warmingand you won't need more than a sweater. But you willexperience a temperature change of 35-40 degrees fromPalm Springs below the tram at 2,400 feet abovesea level. You'll climb to over 8,000 feet at the top.    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HIGH ABOVE the heat of the desert floor,  magical mountains await with cooling breezes. The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway whisks viewers on a breathtaking ride to almost 9,000 feet above sea level.  There, a world of hiking trails, wildflowers, birds, squirrels and sometimes snow awaits. WHEN IT COMES  to heights, I'm a scaredy cat.  But I felt comfortable, even with the gentle pre-announced "bumps" as the tram passes various stations.  I truly enjoy the rotating tram with wonderful views for everyone.  No bad seats and we were totally safe. Its workings are carefully inspected  ABOVE: click on the triangle for our video. and the operation is closed for several weeks each year for maintenance and thorough inspection.  It purrs like a kitten and is tended with meticulous care.   Snow at the top of the ride near the boarding area, in late February. THE TRAM is a major California tourist attraction, drawing many to stay a day or two in Palm Springs. The area attracts golfers, sun seekers, bird watchers, nature lovers and those just wanting to relax or escape colder climes. As the largest rotating aerial tramway in the world, the tram opened with great fanfare in September 1963 whisking folks from the floor of the Coachella Valley to near the top of San Jacinto Peak. Constructing it in rugged Chino Canyon was an engineering marvel, with helicopters bringing in tons of building material and equipment. The tram was the dream of a young electrical engineer named Francis Crocker. IN 1935, while on a trip to Banning, California, with  newspaper publisher Carl Barkow, Crocker was nearly overcome by the heat. Mopping his brow in the sultry desert warmth, he gazed at the still snow-capped peak of Mount San Jacinto -- 10,834 feet elevation. He longed to “go up there where it’s nice and cool.” And so “Crocker’s Folly,” as it was soon dubbed by one newspaper woman, was born – a tramway up the sheer cliffs of Chino Canyon for stunning views of Mt. San Jacinto.   WE BOARDED the tram for our first ride many years ago. It's a  thrilling 10-minute transit over 2.5 miles and 6,000 feet in elevation. With snow still on the mountains, the tram offers a chance to play in snow at the top.  Palm Springs residents take their kids up with sleds and toys.   Climbing several thousand feet to the top are, from left: Bruce Keller, Sue & John Speight and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, excited at the view. AS WE SOARED above the desert wilderness to the breath-taking landscape of Mt. San Jacinto State Park. A few weeks ago, we enjoyed the stunning scenic vista, while families played in the snow. Then we hiked a well constructed trail from the Mountain Station. The rotating tram was introduced in the late 1990s, making it the largest one in the world. As the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway cars inch up the mountain, they slowly rotate for guests to take in a full panoramic view of the rugged canyon below. Once to the top, guests can take it all in from observation decks, check out the natural history museum and two historical documentary theaters. Outside, enjoy more than 50 miles of hiking trails for the true outdoor enthusiasts. Docents are on hand both inside and outside to answer questions. There's a pleasant cafe with grab-and-go snacks for a picnic lunch or early supper. Peaks Restaurant is more formal, with lovely views and a pleasant ambiance offering a more relaxing dining experience. We enjoyed the restaurant with our friends from England. If you're planning to hike on your own, there are five trail options to choose from. They range in length and difficulty. For those looking for a  leisurely nature stroll, our amiable docent recommended the “Long Valley Discovery Trail.” It's less than a mile and clearly marked for an easy loop. We saw many birds and found a clean restroom.  For more experienced hikers, the 11-mile  round trip  hike to the peak of Mt. San Jacinto takes braver hikers to the second highest point in the state.  My eagle-eye husband could see all the way to Catalina Island. Because it is such a spectacular feat of engineering, the tram was dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Be sure to spend time in the "photo hall" where you'll see pictures of the difficult construction and helicopters used for much of the building process. The tram had its inaugural ride in 1963 and in the late 1990s a modern face-lift introduced the rotating tram cars. Wildlife displays show the creatures in the mountains. Two theaters show interesting films. When planning your tram trip, we advise checking arrival and departure times carefully.  Many people enjoy an afternoon trip up and the evening trip down, beneath the stars with the lights of the city below.  The more formal restaurant is popular for celebrations and special events. And sunsets are spectacular at the top. Don't miss the last tram down, though.  Tickets range from $18 to $31, but if you plan more than a couple visits, the summer pass and annual pass are a bargain with substantial savings. We met several local hikers who love them and come up weekly during the hottest months.    For tickets or more information: pstramway.com UP NEXT : "Don't Cry for Me, Argentina." I'm listening to Patti LuPone sing that memorable song from the Tony winning Broadway musical, "Evita."  Next week, we visit a fascinating museum in Buenos Aires dedicated to the life, rise to fame and accomplishments of a young actress from the country who became a famous and beloved first lady. Eva Peron's Buenos Aires museum in her memory is our next feature. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more. Please share the link: www.whereiscookie.com

When Cookie first set eyes on this bridge -- one of several on King's Walkway, not far from Malaga  -- she nearly turned back..... ...but Cookie persisted and joined Bruce Keller and our amiable Viator guide Jose to scale the walkway and survive to climb again. We recommend the fun and safety of Viator's tour of this astonishing place. RECOVERING COWARD FINDS HER METTLE TESTED  HIGH ABOVE THE TREES IN SOUTHERN SPAIN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Relaxing on a lovely train ride from Malaga, enroute to the village of El Chorro, Cookie anticipates the climb. IT WAS NOT  going to frighten me. I could do it without shaking hands..... Thousands have climbed it through the years. Come on, Cookie, calm down.... When something frightens me, I try to approach it logically and overcome my fear. In the case of Spain's famed Caminito Del Rey, "King's Walkway," I considered this fact: it has been safely climbed for more than a year since it re-opened in 2015. I also considered why it closed after nearly a century:  five walkers plunged to their deaths between 1999 and 2000 when the eye-popping paths and bridges fell into disrepair. Cookie and Jose enter a cave leading to the start of the famous walkway.  Still, we would climb with a skilled guide. Jose, an anthropologist, historian and native Spaniard, is an accomplished climber and hiker. He had navigated the pathway dozens of times. Jose helps suit up smiling Cookie up with hard hat and hair net.      THE TRAIN RIDE through the lovely Spanish countryside took us in a few relaxing hours from beautiful Malaga, where we spent an enchanting week, to picturesque Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola, Marbella, Ronda, Ardales and El Chorro, where we met our guide for a half-hour drive to the climb. The narrow gorge is actually in El Chorro, near Ardales in the province of Málaga. We knew from research that we would wear hard hats and hair netting and that we must not have a fear of heights (I lied -- I suffer from vertigo.) My climbing partner and photographer, Bruce Keller, is unafraid.  He is a scuba diver, water skier, hiker, climber -- adept at navigating the unknown -- both literally and figuratively. Only on the train did he tell me that the climb was closed for 14 years, with a multi-million dollar "redo" and that many consider it "the world's scariest walkway." I FELT LIKE  a cowardly extra in an Indiana Jones film as we bent down to climb through a cave that would lead us to the entrance of Caminito del Rey. No turning back now... Grateful for strong reinforcement along much of the walkway, Cookie still found it reassuring to touch the stone walk to her right or hang on to her guide Jose. The walkway has held a mythic history  in Spain, since 1901 when construction began -- finishing in late 1905. Its original purpose was practical -- energy related -- not designed to provide entertainment or recreation.  The project was conceived to provide a means for workers to reach an important pair of hydroelectric power plants located at waterfalls along the route. It would also provide a way to transport supplies and equipment. A breathtaking view of the hillside is available -- if one can look down. ITS NAME CAME  about in 1921 when King Alfonso XIII braved the Caminito for the inauguration of a dam at the site. A decade later, Alfonso was forced into exile when the second Spanish Republic was declared in 1941. But the clever name stuck and Alfonso's great-grandson, the current King Felipe, cut the ribbon on the new improved Caminito when it opened March 28 of 2015. The king, son of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, posed for photos on the walkway.   So I would follow these royal footsteps. A pair of  Swiss walkers pauses.  The dam was built to provide water to Malaga's residents.  Climbers killed on the walkway are honored. Nearing the end of the walk, Cookie looks straight ahead -- not down. Keller is calm. AS WE THREE WALKED  -- I with one hand on the rock wall and the other on the steel bars much of the time --  Jose described the evolution of the walkway.  Before closing for the   "redo," it was a thrill for daredevils such as Jose and his college buddies. When he told me the reason for closing the walkway for 15 years, I nearly turned back.  (It's not a roundtrip -- there's one way in, one way out -- so this would have been inconvenient.) Five people fell to their deaths in 2001 -- three of them careless thrill-seekers forcing a redo of the three-plus kilometer trail and bridges. We did encounter one 60-something woman going against foot traffic, turning back only a fifth of the way in. "Demasiado para mi," she muttered, head shaking.  ("Too much for me.") Despite this unnerving meeting, we pressed on. "You'll be fine," Jose reassured, suggesting I hang on to him for strength. THE NEW  walkway is sturdy and industrial strength, a massive effort of aluminum and stainless steel attached to vertical walk face. Skilled mountain climbers were hired for the construction, swaying in the breezes more than 100-plus meters above land and water. The renovation weighed in at over 3 million Euros with the Andalusian government and city of Malaga footing the bill. They hoped for a major tourist attraction and that is materializing. The tourism bureau touts extra safety measures. This recovering coward was grateful for every one. And thankful for a tall glass of white wine after in the nearby tavern. You may book the walk for a full day, including lunch, with pick-ups and transfers, or just the walk. To book: www. smartholidaysandalusia .com ; www. viator. com UP NEXT: Malaga's magnificent Museuo Automovilistico is a wonderland of gorgeous autos and vintage finery, equally eye-catching. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us late Friday  when we post for each weekend.

We boarded Celebrity's Eclipse for an exciting 15-day cruise from Buenos Aires to the Antarctic. Here, we joined fellow cruisers to board our bus for a shore excursion and spectacular wildlife.  CELEBRITY'S FLEET SPANS THE WORLD, WITH CLASSY STATE OF THE ART VESSELS Celebrity ships are easily recognized by the trademark "X," here on the line's Edge. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Celebrity's shore excursions include a wide range of activity, including biking. "Cookie and Keller" enjoy a ride in Vietnam . THE GREEKS have long been good travelers. So it's no surprise that Celebrity Cruises owes its heritage to the Greece based Chandris Group, which launched the company in 1988-89. We're Celebrity fans, dating back to the year the line was founded by the Greece-based Chandris Group with its first ships, Mercury and Meridian. The respected Chandris organization established the cruise line's reputation as an up-market big-ship operator.  ONE CAN easily spot a Celebrity ship with the line's signature "X," displayed on the funnel. It's the Greek letter chi for "Chandris." If Chandris sounds familiar, you're old enough to remember Chandris Line, a Greek shipping company founded in 1960 by popular ship builder and developer Antonios Chandris. His began operating ocean liners between his native Greece, to Europe, Bermuda and Australia. Chandris initiated the "X" tradition on its funnels, paying homage to the first letter of  Chandris in Greek: Χανδρή. The chi was the logo for Chandris then for its successor,  Celebrity Cruises. Close-up communion with king penguins was a highlight of our recent  Celebrity Antarctic cruise from Argentina, a wondrous 15-day voyage.  CELEBRITY IS rightly  proud of its ships "bells and whistles' and modern venues, including state-of-the-art cabins, restaurants, bars and attractions geared towards R&R. Its Edge is touted as "revolutionary -- designed to raise the bar of cruising." It features a trend-setting outward facing design encouraging guests to feel connected to the sea. An expansive terrace pool deck provides spectacular views as the ship sails between ports.  Heading out to explore aboard Celebrity  for a thrilling wildlife adventure in Antarctica. The resort deck offers a beautifully tended rooftop garden with an urban “playscape,” unique to Celebrity. An  asymmetrical pool also faces the sea. Comfy seating encourages a picnic while watching a movie in the garden . Celebrity Cruises operates 15 vessels. We've cruised on 7 of those, including two trips on the line's dowager ship, Celebrity Millennium, which is nearly 24 years old and still a favorite. A highlight of our 155 cruises was a spectacular itinerary through Asia, with Bali's breathtaking landscapes and gorgeous sails into Hong Kong and Singapore. MILLENNIUM  also goes to India and South Korea and smaller ports in Malaysia. Cookie and Keller on Celebrity, enjoying the scenery in Halong Bay off the coast of Vietnam.    Celebrity doesn't rest on its laurels, coming out with a new ship every two years. It typically keeps vessels for around 20 to 30 years before retiring them. glass blowing classes and demonstrations. We were fans in the line's busy period between 2000 and 2002, when Celebrity launched four ships: Millennium, Infinity, Summit and Constellation -- all carefully chosen names carrying on the sentimental naming tradition of Chandris, who came up with Romantica for an early ship. Writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers gives a reading aboard Celebrity Millennium.  These larger, modern Celebrity ships carry 2,200-plus passengers -- still reasonable compared to today's largest ship, Icon of the Seas, with 7,600 passengers.  We like Celebrity's sizes and its all-glass elevator banks, lively art lectures, stunning onboard art collections, variety of inviting, relaxing areas and a focus on culinary experiences. THE LINE also initiated a series of programs and enhancements designed to improve onboard experience, including glass blowing among the  expanded adult enrichment program, afternoon tea and a spa cafe dinner option. This is Blu, open exclusively to passengers staying in AquaClass cabins. We've also sampled Celebrity's 98-passenger Celebrity Xpedition (a delightful 48 passengers) which gives a wonderful close-up view of the creatures and landscape of the Galapagos.  The ship, in fact, helped put Celebrity -- and Darwin's famous islands -- on the map. For Celebrity's 2024-25 itineraries, discounts and more:  celebritycruises.com School children across Montana learn to enjoy Shakespeare thanks to inventive direction and fine acting of Montana Shakespeare in the Schools. ON TAP:  In the next weeks, we romp with dolphins, try a tuk-tuk tour in Lisbon and join lucky kids enjoying Montana Shakespeare in the Schools. Fortunate students are enjoying a spirited offering of "A Midsummer Night's Dream" now until mid-December. Find out how your school can book a regional touring company.  There are many across the U.S. Then soon we head to   Gibraltar's famous bay which offers a view of two continents and splendid sea life.   Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie hamming it up with temp Maori tattoo SLICE OF MAORI LIFEREMAINS WITH TRAVELERSIN MEMORIES OF GENTLEPEOPLE, HOMEMADE GOODIESAND BEAUTIFUL CHILDREN Okains Bay encourages families to live there, providing cheap lodging in exchange for children learning the Maori language. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER We left historic Akaroa, founded in 1840 by the French, for a 50-mile plus drive.  We were met by a group of school children who welcomed us with song and dance.  Some of us tried temporary tattoos, and the Maori tongue greeting. THE MAORI  people we met during our New Zealand idyll were sensitive, welcoming, smart and funny.  We felt at home. "I'm hungry," our guide said on the return to our ship after a long day. When she commented again that she'd love a cookie, I pulled one from my satchel, an extra from morning tea. This young man was the student leader who welcomed us. "Yum.  That hits the spot," she said, setting her microphone on her lap to munch for a moment. OUR TIME with the Maori included the trip with Denise, to her family's village near Napier (previous blog), and a day at another, more remote Maori village, Okains Bay, whose nearest town is Akaroa. Here, the Maori people are cultivating non-Maori people to their town.  They offer cottages with modest rentals to families with children who agree to enroll their young in the village school there. With that proviso, the children learn the language, customs, history and music of the Maori, assuring the preservation of the culture. Early settlers lived fairly elaborately, even in remote New Zealand villages.  The Maori were world class fishermen as Okains Museum notes. AKAROA'S HARBOR is one of the prettiest in New Zealand, and attracts French visitors because of its preservation of the French language and its "French feel" in the bistros, shops and outdoor markets. Many signs are in French, and the food and wine are French. As we climbed a mountain past gorges and farm land, we left the coast behind.  Approaching the village, we saw signs of both bygone Colonial life and Maori culture. Okains Bay School preserves Maori culture. WE WERE greeted at the village by a young man and soon we heard songs from younger children. Adults offered homemade pastries, then we were ushered into the astonishing Okains Bay Maori and Colonial Museum, with its carved war canoes, tapestries and entire rooms preserved with trappings of the early settlers' lives. The history in this museum is known internationally -- with fine marine and fishing exhibits and world class bird life displays, beautifully documented. Dunedin's train station is the second most photographed building in the Southern Hemisphere (the first is the famed Sydney Opera House, featured in earlier blogs.) NEXT UP:   Look to our new blog, www.lilianslastdance .com for theater and book features, keying off the upcoming paperback publication of our novel "Lilian's Last Dance." www.whereiscookie.com continues its look at international travel and adventure, with a ride on New Zealand and Australia's classy trains and a visit to New Zealand's famous Dunedin Train Station. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us at www.whereiscookie.com

The Queen Mary has a long, proud history and was saved from the scrap heap by the city of Long Beach. The revelry aboard the Queen Mary includes vintage dress for special events. WORLD'S ONCE GRANDEST LINER LIVES A LIVELY LIFE IN LONG BEACH Keller and Cookie flank Commodore Hoard on Queen Mary. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ABOARD  the Queen Mary, there's always adventure.  If you want to schedule it, you can, on a series of entertaining tours which take in every aspect of the grand liner's history. Or you may just let adventure find you as you dress vintage, sip a cocktail and people-watch, dine with style, stroll the decks. I EVEN PLAYED  the piano on which my idol Cole Porter played during his beloved crossings. It is now the piano in Winston's, the most elegant of several eateries on board. There are tours for the history buffs, fun-seekers, ghost lovers, romantics, fans of the sea. Sir Winston's pays homage to a frequent Queen Mary guest. Manned by a crew of 500 domestic staff -- waiters, housekeepers, painters and engineers -- she has 346 hotel rooms and is truly a floating museum.  To recall her glory days, vintage faucets offering the option of salt water were retained.  In pre-air conditioned days, the '30s fans that now serve as decoration would have been essential. Of the Queen's crew who manned her last voyage in 1967, 200-plus survive; they visit the Queen Mary from time to time. MILLIONS  worldwide have walked her decks since she moved to Long Beach, California -- including presidents, prime ministers and dozens of movie stars. "It's always wonderful to have the crew come visit," says Commodore Everette Hoard. The ship is kept very "shipshape." Among notable visits in recent years, Cunard's Princess made a stop in Long Beach to say "hello" to the Queen Mary. In 2006 – Cunard's flagship, the Queen Mary 2, met her namesake, the original RMS Queen Mary. AND IN  2011, Queen Victoria visited her older sister, the Queen Mary, before heading back to Southampton via the Panama Canal. The QE2's longtime captain, Ron Warwick, sailed into Long Beach later in 2011 aboard Cunard's Queen Elizabeth.  "He got off there, to visit us," says Commodore Everette Hoard. Shops and boutiques, tours, restaurants, lounges, tea and exhibits await. And in March of 2013, a "royal rendezvous" occurred when Cunard's Queen Elizabeth visited Long Beach with a formal reception, fireworks and other grand hoopla.   At that fun occasion, 3,800 liner-loving revelers came on board the Queen Mary to celebrate. If you  want to celebrate on the Queen, you're welcome.  "Special events are our bread and butter," says Commodore Hoard.  He sees his job as mainly one of  public relations -- since the ship is not going anywhere. BUSTLING ABOUT  the ship, he schmoozes with visitors, history buffs and overnight guests, posing for photos and answering questions about the bridge, engine room or restaurants. An avid history buff, he knows more than almost anyone about Guests check in at the Queen Mary's lobby reception area. Cunard's rich seafaring history, the various Queens who transited the seas under Cunard's banner, the ship's construction and contents and even the 57 varieties of wood found within her. When one guest asked the difference between a liner and a cruise ship, the Commodore had a concise and immediate answer. "Liners are built with a reserve of speed," Hoard said.  "The Queen Mary, for instance, could go 28 l/2 knots.  Liners have a longer, sleeker hull.  And even a large cruise ship will navigate around bad weather," he says.  "Liners just go for it -- plow right through the weather." Old-fashioned portholes offer a modern  view of Long Beach from Queen Mary. Hoard also lectures on board other vessels, preferring to stick with Cunard, although he's been asked recently to lecture on other lines. Told that we loved bridge tours and visits to the captain's private quarters, Hoard didn't hesitate to take us to the bridge and into his quarters.  Among the famous who enjoyed cocktails there were presidents Ronald Reagan and George H.W. Bush along with "the Iron Lady," Margaret Thatcher, who shares pride in the Queen's heroic part in the Allies' winning of World War II. WINSTON CHURCHILL  had a favorite easy chair in the captain's private quarters and sipped many a cognac while enjoying Nearly 60 kinds of wood adorn the Queen Mary. several Queen Mary crossings with his wife, Clementine.  When Winston's was opened as the ship's top restaurant in the late 1970s. History buffs will love learning about the meeting of two stately queens in 1967.  Early in the morning of Sept. 25, when the retiring Queen Mary, making her final trans-Atlantic voyage in the Cunard Service, passed her sister ship – the original Queen Elizabeth. Between 1947 and 1967 the two majestic ocean liners crisscrossed the Atlantic Ocean dozens of times, but this time was special. As the two historic Queens closed in on each other, both captains stood at the bridge in attention while the mighty whistle of each ship pierced through the autumn air. Realizing they Long before GPS, these tools of navigation guided Queen Mary. were witnessing history and an end of an era, they stood and saluted. That cold September morning on the Atlantic Ocean would be the final time the two beloved ships would cross paths, before the Queen Mary was permanently docked in Long Beach where we had the good fortune to visit her! To make a reservation or book a tour or meal, go to www.queenmary.com Bob & Sue Hulbert join Cookie and Keller aboard the grand Queen Mary. COMING UP : Renting a car abroad can be daunting, but it can also offer joys, excitement and a unique, personalized way to see the country. A few tips can help you  navigate. Remember to explore, learn, live and check us out weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

HISTORIC MEETING AS QUEEN MARY WELCOMES HER 'NIECE,' QUEEN ELIZABETH Cunard's majestic Queen Elizabeth sailed into Long Beach Harbor and spent the day, next to the venerable Queen Mary. The Queen Mary has been retired from the seas since 1967 but still draws a million and one-half visitors annually. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT WAS A GLORIOUS  meeting!  Two queens -- one elderly, the other a fairly new kid on the royal block -- were side by side for a day in the harbor at Long Beach, California. It was a Cunard family reunion with a cast of thousands -- dignitaries and local ship lovers. The 80-year old Queen Mary -- stationed in Long Beach, Calif., greeted her much younger niece with fireworks, live music, speeches, champagne and tours of both queens. THE JOYFUL  occasion marked the opening of an extraordinary ship's model museum aboard Queen Mary, and the launch of an ambitious museum project to be housed in Queen Mary's former engine rooms and adjacent spaces. Dignitaries at the ribbon cutting of Queen Mary's Ship Model Gallery included Richard Meadows, left, CTC and Cunard president, and Bernadette Grenne, Britain's deputy consul general to Los Angeles. Commodore Everette Hoard of the Queen Mary, is far right. A major museum is planned. QUEEN MARY , built in 1935 and considered the grandest ocean liner ever designed at her 1936 launch, has a noble history and is still much loved. She's been anchored in Long Beach since 1967 when she retired from the seas and Long Beach bought her. Every decade or so, another Cunard vessel does a "sail by," giving a "floating salute" while passing, but not actually pulling into shore. This time -- a first in history -- a modern Cunard liner docked next to the Queen Mary and spent the day. QUEEN ELIZABETH,  launched in 2010 ,  paid her respects while on a world tour, allowing her passengers to disembark and tour Queen Mary.  In turn, a few lucky writers and photographers staying in Queen Mary's hotel -- were invited to tour Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth sailed out of Long Beach Harbor with a glorious fireworks display, bagpipe serenade, a jazz band, cocktails and speeches. Queen Mary Commodore Hoard toasted her and his vessel with "Long Live the Queens." The royal visit honored the Queen Mary's remarkable service as a World War II troopship, a makeover which endeared her to the western world and helped the Allies win the war. Many of England's best known personalities -- from Sir Winston Churchill to Noel Coward --  traveled on Queen Mary, along with American luminaries -- Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Fred Astaire, Loretta Young and many other celebrities. IN MODERN  times, Cunard's Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth sail the seas under the Cunard banner continuing the "grand voyage" tradition, exploring islands, exotic countries and world capitals, reminding travelers old and young of the grand days of ocean liner luxury and crossings that offered the best of everything. Commodore Everette Hoard greeted Cookie, Keller and  thousands of others to celebrate Cunard's 175th year and Queen Mary's impressive Model Gallery with a spectacular Queen Mary model crafted from a single mahogany log. When two "queens" meet on the water, it's always a grand occasion, especially when they'll both be docked. Long Beach rolled out the red carpet and the Queen Mary offered free admission, an offer thousands of locals took advantage of. Click the link below to READ WHAT PEOPLE AS SAYING ABOUT 'LILIAN'S LAST DANCE ' SO WE AROSE   at 4:30 a.m. -- in complete dark and thick fog -- to bundle up, grab coffees and head for the deck to listen for Queen Elizabeth's horn. Queen Mary's gregarious commodore, Everette Hoard, was up at 2 a.m. to join the pilot boat in welcoming the Queen Elizabeth into the harbor.  He was the true star of the day-long show, greeting Queen Elizabeth brass and welcoming her world-cruise guests aboard "his" Queen Mary.  In turn, the Queen Elizabeth's captain came aboard to admire the model gallery and welcomed a few to tour the visiting vessel. Hoard officiated at an elaborate sail-out salute to Queen Elizabeth, from a vantage point on his beloved Queen Mary. A grand stairway on the Queen Elizabeth features an elaborate wood marquetry panel. UP NEXT : Come aboard with us for an afternoon on the renowned Queen Elizabeth.  The Cunard ship offers beautiful woodwork, elegant tapestries, traditional English tea, an inviting pool, and an array of stylish salons, dining rooms and a grand theater space.  All the detail makes this Cunard liner world famous. Look for travel, cruising, hotel and adventure stories as we explore the world Wednesdays at www.whereiscookie. For theater, movies and literature features, www.lilianslastdance   updates you on the arts as well as tours and readings for our new novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," soon out on paperback. Remember to explore, learn and live! Carpe diem! That's the word.

The Bishop Museum's several buildings range from historic to contemporary and house millions of priceless items. It represents the world's largest collection of Hawaiian and Pacific cultural artifacts and natural history specimens. Its many collections contribute to global research. MUSEUM SHINES ARTFUL SPOTLIGHT ON HISTORY OF SOUTH PACIFICIN STATELY HONOLULU COMPLEX STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE BISHOP Museum in Honolulu is a true treasure trove. You'll go down the rabbit hole of Pacific Island discovery when you visit. Plan to spend a day to truly savor and appreciate its marvelous, eye-popping contents. SHOWCASING AN  extensive collection of Hawaiian objects and royal family heirlooms owned by a princess, the museum includes millions of objects, documents and photographs about Hawai'i and other Pacific island cultures. Above right, Tapestries, feathers and  elaborate wall hangings are displayed artfully throughout the museum. Above, one of many intriguing sculptures. The Bishop Museum's extensive nature related exhibits include these striking mobiles of a whales, sharks and more. "The Bishop," as it is known worldwide, was founded in 1889 by Charles R. Bishop, the American husband of Hawaiian Princess Bernice Pauahi, who died in 1884. Because she was the last direct descendant of King Kamehameha, Bishop wanted to honor her legacy as well as celebrating Hawaii's cultural richness. Imagine 25 million items -- it's mind boggling. Each piece tells a story of the Pacific Islands rich and diverse history and culture. THE MUSEUM has gained an international reputation for its breadth and excellence. As the state's largest museum, it is the Pacific region's premier natural and cultural history institution. It is recognized worldwide for its cultural collections, research projects, consulting services and public educational programs. Feathers are part of the culture. Here, Keller admires a creation made of thousands of them, carefully plucked so the birds were not injured, but released to grow more. Bishop and his wife, Pauahi. The museum showcases her extensive collection acquired in her royal life. WE SPENT an enlightening afternoon enjoying the exhibits -- from photographs of famous surfers to hands-on drums, to weavings, tapestries, pottery, mobiles, sculpture, murals, and intriguing diagrams.  In 1961 a planetarium and an observatory were added to emphasize the role of astronomy in the cultural history of Pacific Island peoples.   BISHOP CREATED the  museum as an enduring memorial to his beloved wife. Pauahi was a well known philanthropist and member of Hawaii's ali'i, or royalty.  She inherited many irreplaceable heirlooms from her royal family including her prestigious parents and her cousin Ruth Keʻelikōlani. She died at age 52, living only from 1831to 1884. But she was a shrewd businesswoman. At her death, her estate was the largest private landownership in the Hawaiian Islands, comprising an astonishing nine per cent of Hawaii's total area. The revenues from these lands are used to operate the Kamehameha Schools, established in 1887 according to Pauahi's will. Her marriage to Bishop was one of like minded philanthropists who appreciated and shared their wealth. The Hawaiian Hall at the Bishop Museum contains the world's largest collection of Polynesian artifacts. Millions of pieces of historic art and memorabilia are housed within the museum complex, a world class operation.  WE ADMIRED  many of their treasures, including stone and bone implements and containers, gorgeous feather lei and capes and stunning kihili, those distinctive long poles decorated on one end with a cluster of thousands of feather plumes.  These, and many of the other museum items, were used as ceremonial emblems by the native Hawaiian people. Bishop's mission was to honor both his wife's legacy and celebrate the rich culture of South Pacific. Well done. As our Hawaiian friends say: hele mai e ao, or "come in and learn."   https://www.bishopmuseum.org/   A spirited cast gives energy and pizzazz to "Xanadu" underway at San Diego Musical Theatre. Another successful run begins! BEST ON THE BOARDS:    underway at San Diego Musical Theatre, is a rousing new musical, "Xanadu," based on the 1980s film but much more fun. The theater, at 4650 Mercury St., San Diego, is a dream came true for Erin and Gary Lewis who launched it and so far have produced 350 productions. Xanadu runs through June 4, followed by Tony winning "Urinetown" in late July, "The Addams Family" opening Sept. 29 and "Forever Plaid" for the holidays. "Xanadu" is getting raves for its feel good energy, its energetic roller skate numbers, fabulous singing, snappy choreography and endearing characters with good times guaranteed. Check out upcoming musical theater treats, package deals, group discounts and more at sdmt.org 858 560-5740.  . The Museum of Neew Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa offers a visual feast of  treasures, including art, beautiful user-friendly exhibits and animal studies . UP NEXT: While we're in a museum mood, we visit one of the world's finest. The centerpiece of Wellington is the remarkable Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa which offers a cultural feast and is the focal complex in the city's unusual and popular "free museum" system. Te Papa Museum is one of many no-admission museums in Wellington, and is a much loved, user friendly place often visited by locals, school groups and by thousands of grateful visitors from all over the world. Te Papa means "container of treasures" and the museum lives up to its name. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

LANGHAM HOTEL DOWN UNDER PERSONIFIES EXCELLENCE, UNDERSTATEMENT, LOCATION View at dusk from our Langham bedroom yields the splendid Yarra River, train station, cathedral and Federation Square. Stately St. Paul's Cathedral and lively Federation Square make a fascinating, well integrated pair in Melbourne.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU MIGHT  not remember that you asked your waiter for a cup of mint tea, to point you calmly toward dream land before you hit the sack. Perhaps you don't recall that you put a sprinkle of cinnamon on your morning cappuccino. Beautiful teas and sweets are part of the presentation at Melbourne's legendary Langham Hotel. But a good waiter watches, remembers! If you enjoy your white wine with a single ice cube, you'll get that! If you like your slippers by the bed, or nightie on the pillow, the housekeeper will make it happen.  The staff in a fine hotel knows these things and offers service with gracious ease. Superb service comes with training, practice and cultivation of "people skills." The Langham folks like what they do.  THE LANGHAM personnel of Melbourne, Australia, knew and remembered our names, greeted us with sincerity and smiles, and went beyond the call to make our stay a highlight of a seven-week trip. Federation Square, affectionately known as "The Fed," is a lively, dramatic centerpiece of Melbourne life, and a fascinating place to spend time. Our memorable visit to the much heralded Langham proved that splendid service is alive and flourishing Down Under. The Melbourne landmark is a shining star in a distinguished international hotel group, ranked a top hotel worldwide.  It distinguishes itself from the moment one enters the lobby. We enjoyed a refreshing cocktail as we completed registration then were shown to our beautifully appointed room and champagne. We toasted vistas inside and out. MELBOURNE'S  Yarra River and the impressive Melbourne skyline were bathed in a coral and blue sunset from the Langham's prime location. We loved being A lovely Langham bedroom -- with fine  art, plants and a river view.  a stone's throw from the city's cutting edge art scene, and its beautiful Federation Square. "The Fed" is a progressive mixed- >>>JUMP TO LILIAN'S LAST DANCE click here<<< use development on three "prime space" hectares, with two well loved public spaces and a huge screen for broadcasting sports and cultural events. We enjoyed a boys' choir The Langham, with its distinctive golden "L" symbol, awash in evening lights. concert, broadcast from the nearby arts center. Tourists and locals alike relaxed on comfy lawn chairs as the emcee asked, "Can you hear us there at The Fed?" (Cheers, bravos, applause.) Sweet treats -- the Langham club lounge offers breakfast fruits, afternoon pastries. DURING OUR  five "Langham Camelot days," as we dubbed our stay, we watched life unfold at Federation Square, took several short cruises on the Yarra and strolled Flinders Street, Swanston Street and St. Kilda Road, all well known arteries in Melbourne's central business district. A 1997 architectural competition resulted in construction of "Fed Square," now known throughout the southern hemisphere for its grace, boldness and multitude of uses -- shops, bars, restaurants, meeting place, concert hall. The iconic Flinders Street Station, opened in 1909, with its golden facade and arched entrance, is a work of art.  Bold, modern "Fed" Square, originally controversial, now stands proudly across from St. Paul's Cathedral: Square and church happy, integrated. WHAT A TREAT  to return to the Langham, with its lovely lights and welcoming "L" -- plus vintage pink auto out front, emphasizing the Langham's penchant for pastels. The hotel is a sanctuary nestled on Melbourne's stylish Southbank Promenade. From dining at Melba -- named after the famed Melbourne-born opera diva -- to cocktails at Aria Lounge, the Langham oozes artful style.  We didn't sample the fitness center, nor Chuan Spa. But friends from Germany and Japan reported the hotel's holistic wellness sanctuary's massage and facials use traditional Chinese medicine principles. We did try the Langham's 15-meter indoor pool -- when we weren't frolicking lively Melbourne's streets or luxuriating in our river-view room! MORE COMING: Train travel in Australia and New Zealand is an art. We continue the whereiscookie.com travel and cruise tradition each Wednesday. Look for the arts and literature on weekends at   www.lilianslastdance.com .  Remember to explore, learn and live!

Elegance and style greet the eye at every turn, and antiques meet the latest in technology, at Barcelona's Claris Hotel. Here's the spectacular view from the elevator as one whisks to one's room above an artful interior courtyard. Below, right, Antoni Gaudi's famed Casa Battlo is within easy walking distance from the Claris. BARCELONA BEAUTY: CLARIS HOTEL GREETS THE GUEST WITH MUSEUM CLASS SURROUNDINGS, SUPERB SERVICE, LOCATION  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ELEGANCE WITH EASE.  That seemingly simple recipe for success is what puts Barcelona's lovely Claris Hotel in a league of its own. The Claris is one of four uniquely appointed, art driven properties owned by Derby Hotels, a small and superbly run group of hotels in Barcelona, Madrid, Paris and London. Each hotel contains a fortune in art, not surprisingly, for the owner is an art scholar, owner of one of Europe's most exclusive private art collections. WE DISCOVERED these elegant hotels through fellow museum buffs, also travel writers. Their blend of old-world service, antiques, artwork, Catalan spirit and contemporary amenities is to be savored. Beautifully displayed and carefully lit sculpture catch the eye at every turn at Claris.  The source of our enthusiasm is a man named Jordi Clos.  As chairman and founder of Derby Hotels Collection, he displays an eye for beauty and class, sharing it with the hotels' fortunate clientele. The savvy Catalan businessman and his son are experts at knowing what makes a hotel unique.  First, give the well traveled visitor something special. Cultivate an atmosphere of personalized service. Make every guest feel welcome.   Create an aura that says "unique." The Claris does all this and more. WE WERE offered cava or fresh-squeezed juice as we waited briefly for our room, a treat because we'd arrived several hours before check-in, following a Greek Isles cruise.  (A lesser hotel would have stored our bags and asked us to return later. Instead, we had our room in minutes.)   Hotelier Clos is a renowned Egyptologist, collector and sponsor of art.  Jordi Clos is a well known aficionado who shares his  personal collection with clients in four stunning properties. So for our week-long Claris stay, we were surrounded by world-class sculpture and paintings in the restaurants and public areas.  Retreating to our room, we relaxed amid gorgeous tapestry, antique mirrors, pre-Columbian sculpture and a headboard above the bed in Elegance, artwork and superb service greet the Claris guest.  the shape of a crown.  Perfect for this Leo -- fit for a queen. We marveled at the designers' sense of style, color and fabric, the weaving of a sense of beauty.  WE'D BEEN TO  Barcelona many times, but wanted to revisit the famed Gaudi buildings and his Sagrada Familia, and we enjoyed strolling the hotel's distinctive neighborhood, the famed L'Eixample District. -- Breakfast pastry bar at the Claris: croissants, rich grain breads made that morning, beautiful sweets, even a gluten-free section. Sunset atop the Claris is a time for unwinding, enjoying a cocktail, admiring stately boulevards and busy life below. Clos also chairs the Clos Archaeological Foundation, which owns the Egyptian Museum of Barcelona, down the street from the Claris. This  collection -- open to the public -- exhibits the family's devotion to Egypt's culture.  (Clos has funded archaeological digs for a quarter century.)  EACH OF the four Clos properties is well located.  In Barcelona, the Claris is the grand dame of the city's famed L'Eixample district, with its celebrated dining scene, high-end boutiques and diverse nightlife.  Our suite featured a beautiful tapestry, sculpture, antiques and modern amenities: flat-screen TV and espresso maker. The Clos passion for art and culture  inspired The Claris breakfast buffet befits the hotel's sense of style and variety. Above, Jimmy helps Keller plan. his unique collection of hotels,  exhibiting  classical  artistic taste. Each hotel -- like the city it inhabits -- has its own personality.  L'Eixample's Modernista architecture complements the Claris, blending the stately and modern and near  the famed Pedrera and Casa Battlo. We pledged to return as we said a reluctant goodbye to Jimmy and Alvin in the breakfast restaurant. We'd miss the art, roses, Mediterranean cuisine, glorious spa, impeccable service -- the Claris class. At Mas La Boella, a beautiful sense of serenity envelopes the guest, in a retreat of olive trees, gardens and tranquility. UP NEXT:  While we're in Spain, come discover another treasured property, tucked away in the hills of Tarragona, southwest of Barcelona.  Mas La Boella is a small, distinguished property built around an olive plantation and  still working olive packaging plant. We admired beautifully integrated antiques, dined amid the trees and gardens and learned a lot about olive oil, as you will, too. Meanwhile, enjoy learn and live and visit us Fridays when we post for each weekend, a fresh slant on nature, the arts, family and travel.