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PHOTO HOMAGE SPARES THE TYPING, SHARES KELLER'S LOVE OF BIRDS The Absaroka Range is home to many stunning birds, including eagles and hawks. Several varieties of hummingbirds frolic in Montana, above, San Diego, left.   BRUCE KELLER PHOTOS COOKIE MEYERS POEM INJURY to a writer's left arm makes typing tough, so we depart for a few days from our usual commentary, focusing more on photos. Today's piece features Cookie's poem and a Keller photo essay reflecting his love of birds, from San Diego and southern California to the wilds of south-central Montana.  Cookie's tumble was while filling bird feeders, a fact for which she in no way blames her feathered friends.  Please enjoy. These happy ducks were photographed in southern California. This fella is looking for supper at Oceanside Harbor, Calif. Felled by a sprain on a warm July night,our writer's one handed, a horrible plightfor one driven by nature, and music and words.So our Cookie's decided to share with you birds -- from the photos dear Keller has taken on trips,observing the wonders of flight, nests and flips.(Did we mention that Cookie has singed her hair, too?Now she's burned on the top, with an arm black and blue!)Scorched her mop burning weeds: bad ones that rankle.  An earlier fall meant she sprained her left ankle. Now these accidents numbering one, two and three, should mean summer's remainder is incident free.Meanwhile, typing's a challenge with only one arm, so we serve up these photos while Cooks avoids harm.   Songbirds serenade in both our states.  this one chirps, dips and chows down at High Chaparral, Montana.                                                               Bighorn sheep court near Stillwater Mine above Nye, Montana. COMING SOON:  Now that we've shared a few of our splendid Montana and California birds, we will offer a few critters spotted in or near our yard in Stillwater County.  We try to share our love of nature and our sense of adventure and fun.  Posts are Wednesdays and weekends.  Remember to enjoy, learn and live! Please spread the word about: www.whereiscookie.com

Grecian and Roman sculpture adorn the entryway and paths to San Simeon's Hearst Castle on the central California coast. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Hearst's youthful travels inspired his lavish creation of San Simeon. WHEN WILLIAM  Randolph Hearst was a little boy his mother took him on a grand tour of Europe.  There the tyke admired ancient statues, castles and frescoes, learned about the art of the Renaissance and dreamed of having his own artful place when he grew up. That fantasy became reality, a modern day Shangri-la, when the newspaper baron created San Simeon. Visitors pause outside the main mansion, by the outdoor pool. Hearst and his trusted architect, Julia Morgan, on site in 1926. We joined tourists from all over the world to admire the excesses of a true eccentric. Hearst traveled to Europe many times collecting the art that would become his legacy and placing it in his carefully designed mansion. His enterprising female architect Julia Morgan was with him every step of the way. INVITATIONS to Hearst Castle were highly coveted during its heyday in the 1920s and 1930s. One of the many details is the ornate front door through which movie stars and others entered. Hollywood royalty and the politically elite visited, usually flying into the estate's airfield or taking a private Hearst-owned train car from Los Angeles. Charlie Chaplin, Cary Grant, the Marx Brothers, Charles Lindbergh, Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo, Jimmy Stewart and presidents Calvin Coolidge and FDR visited.  Winston Churchill spent time with Hearst and his wife in New York City, then with Hearst and his mistress  at San Simeon, remarking that he found both Hearst partners delightful. The beautiful,.peaceful Neptune Pool, a favorite hiding place of Patty Hearst. WHILE GUESTS were expected to attend the formal dinners each evening, they were left to their own devices during the day while Hearst directed his business affairs. Since "the Ranch" had many facilities, guests could play tennis, hike, ask the kitchen to make a picnic, or simply wander about, read, enjoy the exotic wildlife and rejuvenate. ALCOHOL  was not forbidden, but was served in moderation and could not be brought in. Those who abused protocol were not invited back! The theater was available for viewings and Hearst often screened films after dinner, choosing from productions of his own film studio, Cosmopolitan Productions. The newspaper baron's many trips to Europe inspired the  compound known by millions as San Simeon.   HEARST CASTLE  was the inspiration for "Xanadu,"  the mansion of the 1941 Orson Welles classic film, "Citizen Kane," a fictionalization of William Randolph Hearst's career. However, the castle was not used for the film, which was shot at Oheka Castle in New York. Commercial filming is rare at Hearst Castle and most requests are denied.  Only two projects have been allowed to film on the premises: director Stanley Kubrick's "Spartacus," which used the castle as Crassus' villa; and a Lady Gaga music video. PATTY HEARST,  granddaughter of the mogul, remembers playing in the Neptune Pool and hiding behind its gorgeous statues.  She conducted a Travel Channel tour a few years back, recalling the place with affection. Hearst maintained his own fire truck on the premises -- just in case. Hearst Castle is both a national and California historical landmark, designed by Hearst's friend, Ms. Morgan, during their long collaboration -- 1919 to 1947. Hearst was still enhancing his creation when illness forced him to abandon the project in the late 1940s and he did not return to his beloved San Simeon before his 1951 death. THE CALIFORNIA  Park Commission voted to include the castle in its State Park System in 1954, with a proposed admission charge of $1 and 50 cents for the bus ride up. Today's tourists pay $25 per tour (cottages and kitchens, grand rooms, upstairs suites, the main castle and an evening tour). Packages are available including hotels and a delightful holiday tour is featured with evening lights.  (We loved the Best Western Plus Cavalier where we had a splendid ocean view room. More about that in our coastal hotels piece.)   Just a few miles from the Hearst Castle is San Simeon's Best Western Cavalier. This is the beautiful ocean view from our delightful room. THE HEARST FAMILY  keeps a villa on the grounds for its private use, separated from the parts tourists see.  The mansion and its grand collection of art and antiques includes Hearst's flashy red fire truck.  The complex is near a small unincorporated town, San Simeon, and the village of Cambria. Millions of travelers visit each year. When Hearst approached American architect Morgan with ideas for a new project in April 1915, his idea was to fashion a comfortable bungalow. "I'd like to build something upon the hill at San Simeon. I get tired of going up there and camping in tents. I'm getting too old for that. I'd like something a little more comfortable," he said. A candy emporium and much more await you in Old Town Sacramento,  Hearst formally named the estate "La Cuesta Encantada" ("The Enchanted Hill"), but usually called it "the ranch." Hearst Castle and grounds are sometimes referred to as "San Simeon" as is the surrounding   area and its lovely hotels. Phone 1-800-695-2269 for tickets or information or go to www.hearstcastle.org .   COMING SOON:  California dreaming means fun hotels and rooms with views....... then we're dreaming of a snake-free summer under the Big Sky, where seldom is heard a discouraging word. Plus Old Town Sacramento with terrific Greek food, live music, a candy emporium with dozens of salt water taffy tastes. And more, at www.whereiscookie.com

TAKE A TRAIN RIDE, CROSS A GOLD BRIDGE, TASTE GREEK TREATS AND SPLENDID TAFFY Candy by the barrels awaits sampling in Sacramento's Candy Heaven, with hundreds of varieties and flavors. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Tourists board a horse drawn carriage to tour Sacramento's Old Town. THE BRIDGE  with its golden mustard arches gets your attention. Painted the color of Dorothy's yellow brick road, it evokes a sense of fun and exploration. And that's what awaits you in Sacramento's Old Town. The historic area of California's capital dates back to the gold rush days of 1848 when prospectors, entrepreneurs and gamblers headed for fortune if not fame. The last stop on the Pony Express, Sacramento was also the terminus of the transcontinental railroad and -- like most gold rush towns -- Sacramento boasted a handsome array of saloons and bordellos. Kristen and Zach clown in Sacramento's Old Town. The stately Capitol Building in Sacramento.  TODAY'S OLD Sacramento pays homage to the local color that keeps the city in the eye of tourists and locals alike. Music and film festivals are booked months in advance. Our fun begins with the 1935 bridge, painted a playful gold in 2002 to honor California's "Golden State" moniker. Just over 28 acres, Old Town houses 53 historic buildings ranging from hotels to candy shops, jewelry and clothing venues and specialty shops with gifts unique to Sacramento.  Old Town brings out one's sense of fun. WE STROLLED  and enjoyed for five hours with Keller's daughter and her boyfriend, Kristen and Zach. The four of us strolled Front Street, dipping in a leather store, a throw-back to a hippie head shop with beads, oils and incense.  Then we checked out the delightful Old Sacramento Excursion Train Ride, a 40-minute round trip along the levees of the Sacramento River. The Tower Bridge in Sacramento connects Yolo and Sacramento counties. Horse and carriage rides are also  offered and there were takers for these as we enjoyed the art and antique shops -- "Penny Farthing" caught our eye.  Toy and kite shops and a fascinating emporium, G Willikers, were doing booming business. WE SATISFIED  our sweet teeth at Candy Heaven on Front Street, where young hawkers pass out coupons for free samples of salt water taffy -- including my favorite licorice, Keller's chocolate and a mint and jalapeno the kids discovered.  It has an interesting zingy aftertaste! For lunch, we happened upon the small and wonderful place Happy Pita Cafe. Terrific lamb wraps, Greek style, complete with both tasty mint and yogurt sauce and spicy hot sauce. A view of Sacramento and the lovely delta in earlier days. Mountain men, and a variety of Spanish, English and Portuguese explorers visited the area, and the usual complement of Catholic priests seeking converts to the faith. Sacramento is, proudly, California's capital. The State Capitol also has a Museum.  The complex houses past, present and future elements of the state, serving both as a museum and a working seat of government. It's a popular day trip for students and tourists alike, where one can watch history in the making. SACRAMENTO'S  recorded history begins in the decade of 1839-1848 with an embarcadero, constructed at the confluence of the American and Sacramento Rivers.  But long before Europeans and Mexican-based adventurers such as Samuel Brannan and John Augustus Sutter Sr. and Jr., the Native American Maidu inhabited the fertile valley. Humpbacks, including a mother and calf, Delta and Dawn, swam into Sacramento's Delta. Whales have also ventured to Sacramento, swimming 90 nautical miles up the Sacramento River, attracting international attention. Finally, a nod to the aforementioned golden bridge. The handsome Tower Bridge is a vertical lift bridge across the Sacramento River, linking West Sacramento in Yolo County to the west, with the capital of California, Sacramento, in Sacramento County to the east. This fledgling entertained travelers Keller and Cookie, in their Nye yard. COMING SOON: California's coast offers some of the most delightful rooms you'll ever check into -- for spectacular views. Then off to Lisbon for a look at the lively arts and culture of this proud Portuguese city. And Montana's bird life is burgeoning with baby birdies.  We visit some fledlings and mature woodpeckers, eagles and more. Join us for travel off the beaten path, with a sense of fun, and an eye for nature and humor. Weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Point Arena wildlife park provides venue for saving endangered African species Giraffes enjoy lunch at the B Bryan Preserve, a haven for endangered African animals near Point Arena, California  Cookie feeds the giraffes, a thrill! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Frank greets a beloved giraffe. THOUSANDS  of miles from Africa, an animal-cherishing northern California couple is doing its best to preserve endangered critters continents away. In a climate and terrain similar to the creatures' native habitat, B Bryan Preserve   is a haven for animals that are likely on their literal last legs in Africa. It takes a tall barn to provide comfortable lodging for giraffes. The enterprise's founding couple is committed to the breeding and conservation of African hoof stock. Frank Mello and his wife, Judy, are lifelong wildlife enthusiasts from opposite corners of the United States. Frank, a Northern California native, met Judy in the corporate world in her native Mississippi. Frank knows every animal by name on the B Bryan Preserve. WHILE JUDY  was tending to the cottages the couple rents to boost income for the wildlife endeavor, we toured the place with Frank as our guide.  He began with this melancholy greeting:  "If you haven't been to Africa, I urge you to go.  Some of the animals you see today will not exist there for much longer." Zebras contribute their exotic look to northern California's Point Arena. JUDY HAS  traveled to several parts of Africa, experiencing the beauty with increasing concern. In my own trips, I've been made painfully aware of the diminishing numbers of giraffes, zebras, elephants, rhinos, lions, tigers and more.  Alarm at the continent's continuing devastation of wildlife is the couple's motivation.  Frank's love of the creatures of Africa stems from his deep affection for wildlife and love of beauty along the California coast. He conveys his concern about diminishing numbers on several disturbing charts which he shares before the tour, as guests gather in a large storage barn. FRANK  prepares eager tourists for what they will see -- a working farm where several species are loved and protected.  The couple raise, breed and study various kinds of antelope -- roan, sable and greater kudu antelope as well as Grevy’s and Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra and the Rothschild’s Giraffe. Visitors can get up close and personal B Bryan Preserve charts the decline of several endangered African species. THE TWO-HOUR  tour is available morning and dusk and  includes feeding time, with tourist participation.  It's a  fascinating and up-close look at the critters, as five or six wildlife lovers explore the 100-acre complex in the back of a land rover, exiting the van at various stops to view the critters close-up.  Frank provides gruff but enlightening commentary, taking  visitors through the history of the endeavor and engendering an understanding of the importance of A walk into the gardens of B Bryan Preserve leads to an enlightening time. wildlife conservation. Frank's northern California roots called in 2004 and the couple purchased a 100 acre ranch, moving 11 animals to Point Arena in verdant Mendocino County. A few are from San Diego's famous wildlife park. Since then, they've added endangered Grevy’s and Hartmann’s Mountain zebra, plus Rothschild’s Giraffe to the welcoming acres of their preserve. THE COUPLE  is devout in their preaching:  wildlife habitats around the world continue to decline. Many species are on the verge of extinction, forced from their native habitat by over population and poaching. Degradation of grazing land,  the swelling population of humans and hunger leading to poaching are the enemies of Visitors from around the world enjoy San Simeon, a site to behold on California's central coast. Coming soon at www.whereiscookie.com these beautiful creatures. "Add to that massive political and social unrest, the presence of AK 47s in the hands of rebels and the animal world is in crisis," Frank said. COMING SOON: A newspaper tycoon with more money than he could possibly spend built a monument to himself, his publishing empire, and the world's great art.  William Randolph Hearst's San Simeon is our next stop.  We travel with a sense of adventure and an eye out for fun and the offbeat.  Join us Wednesdays and weekends, and remember to explore, learn and live, at www.whereiscookie.com

The cliffs leading up to the beautiful Beehive Canyon are enjoyed on the river with Absaroka River Adventures. ABSAROKA RIVER ADVENTURES BRINGS RENEWED COURAGE, SHARES MONTANA'S STILLWATER BEAUTY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS A family suits up at the Absarokee gathering with life preservers\.  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CALL ME a coward.  Water scared. Battle scarred. A sissy. Pansy. It's true. It WAS true. But now I'm a recovering rafter. Two rafting accidents decades ago prevented me from "getting back on the horse" -- or hosting myself back on the raft -- until last weekend. I've been twice "bucked outta the boat" -- once in Mystic Lake as it fed into the raging West Rosebud, and once on Oregon's Rogue River as we tried to transit five-star rapids. My "rafting chutzpah" was way low. Rafting the river with young, athletic rowers is a plus, and Absaroka River Adventures carefully selects each raft's occupants for balance. SUNDAY  however, Absaroka River Adventures restored my faith in the river raft adventure and in  my ability to transit a spirited river. THE CONTEMPLATIVE  Matt Holtz, manager and owner of the enterprise, assured me that I would be safe with him and the crew. We brought along our San Diego friend, Tom Giamonco, and we all felt comforted and protected from the beginning. Families may bring children at their discretion.- Thrills, no spills, plus scenery mark  the trip down the Stillwater. After a 25-mile ride from Absarokee, we put in near Nye, Montana, a small town on the Stillwater River. We would take the Stillwater half way back toward Absarokee, via the "Upper Half Day" tour.  It was thrilling, because normally the "upper" Stillwater doesn't have enough water to buoy the rafts. LOTS OF  snow melt and spring rains boded well for us. We paddled through Class III rapids and floated the beautiful Beehive Canyon, spending time observing blue heron and eagles, enjoying the moments of calm before Matt gave us orders, "okay, we need to paddle." As the afternoon ends, rafters amble up to land again. We were six, plus Matt, in our raft, and five other rafts took off in this gorgeous stretch of river, long the domain of kayakers and offering beauty at every turn. At the helm:  each raft has a leader, a skilled captain. We gathered in Absarokee, at the Absaroka River Adventures headquarters, and received our life jackets and encouragement.  Brent listened to my "raft accident stories" and encouraged me that this Splashing and a few wet moment in the raft are part of the thrill!  would be spirited, fun but safe. SEEING BLUE heron and red-winged blackbirds thrilled our rafters, but the three high school athletes were mostly thrilled by the splashes and "wet" parts. Cookie and Tom safe, out of the raft!  Kudos to Matt, who described each turn of the river, pointing out rock formations and historic landmarks.  Also delightful are his right-hand man, Tim Hedin, Julie our congenial  driver, Brent, who gave me (the "Cowardly Lion,") ample courage and the whole Absaroka River Adventures crew of a dozen plus. There's a tour to fit your itinerary and needs, from half-day to full-day, gentle and spirited, family reunions and more. We'll be back! We met rafters from Iowa, Alaska and New Jersey, all enjoying Montana's splendor.  Europeans and Asians also love the Absaroka River Adventures' offerings. sI'm riding the rapids again. Call 1 800-334-RAFT, 1 800-334-7238 to book a Boats, beauty and water life mark the California hotel tour. raft tour. If you're coming to this part of Montana, you won't go wrong. COMING SOON: Favorite hotels along the California coast and why we picked them. Plus Old Town Sacramento. Remember to explore, learn and live, as we travel with a sense of fun and adventure. Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Glass-half-full tale unfolds as California kids adjust to Big Sky travails, delights   The fields are green, the horses are happy in the Stillwater Valley, Montana, as our travelers return to problems and joys. Minutes after arriving at High Chaparral, the couple found one of bird houses full of baby birds, about to fledge.  The next morning, they were gone! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER    A WEEK OF WOES  we have had, with a transition from California to Montana, but a glass-half-full story we happily share. (We'll be writing about the unusual northern California wildlife preservation enterprise next Wednesday, and will give full forum to B Bryan Preserve and its worthy work.) Today, though, a silver lining story. The garage and work shop are a shambles, but order is returning. FLAT TIRES , a dead refrigerator, a jumbled garage, and a continuing disaster of winter damage, could derail lesser mortals. Cookie and Keller proudly report, they found the "good stuff" and are savoring. Montana has never looked greener. Tiny birdies -- wrens I think -- were chirping in their bird house as we moved our stuff in. We looked in while the mother was away, and took some photos. The next morning, they had fledged. THIS WAS AN  omen, we chose to believe. So despite the flat tires, dead refrigerator, perennials that didn't make it through a minus- Friends help the complicated re-entry -- here John and Laurie Beers, left, Cookie in center, and Lana and Charles Sangmeister, with Keller above left. 40 winter, we give thanks. The garage is our workshop and Keller has restored it masterfully.  We're using it to sort flood damaged goods and make repairs to a wrecked guest room while awaiting an insurance decision. We have wonderful friends, who mowed the lawn and send supportive thoughts. We're looking to the future, with high hopes, as Bing Crosby promised in his hit song long ago. COMING UP :  B Bryan Preserve in northern California's Mendocino County is doing remarkable work to preserve the endangered species of Africa.  Come with us to meet several kinds of zebras, along with giraffes and other exotic critters.  Remember to explore,learn and live.  We're about travel with adventure and a sense of fun. "Carpe diem" is our motto. Check us out Wednesdays and weekends, at: www.whereiscookie.com

PURPLE MARTIN'S MAJESTY: POINT ARENA ENTERPRISE GROWS FINE ORGANIC FARE James Walker Hayes washes freshly picked produce at the organic farm he and his partner, Kelle Martin, run. The historic Point Arena Lighthouse, above, is a few miles back toward town from the farm, then up the road a bit. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE APPROACH  to a gardener's Eden is a good half hour outside of Point Arena, Calif., down a winding country road dense with fir, cedar, pine and redwoods. You know you're going some place special because it's serene, peaceful, picture-postcard perfect. The air smells terrific. Purple Martin Farm puts a person in a happy state of mind. James Hayes and Kelle Martin welcome us for a three-day stay. Dinner is served -- with a freshly picked salad.  WE ARE  surrounded by beauty, both inside their house and throughout the property, with its various greenhouses, sheds and wine making shop, all spread across artfully landscaped grounds. Blooming vegetables are ready for harvest. Apricots the size of lemons are picked for snacking. Pears aren't quite mature but show promise. Various apples in various stages.... James is proud of the enterprise's secondary offshoot, wine making.   Figs will be enjoyed soon. Flowers bloom everywhere and the couple has used native rock to frame footpaths and set off shrubs and ground cover. HARD TO  imagine anyone working in this idyllic setting, but there's elbow grease aplenty and chores underway. Who needs marijuana with this natural high? Song birds tweet a tuneful hello and Millie, the dog, welcomes our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, after voicing momentary distress. Soon, the three canines are romping together, exploring the lush acreage above the Pacific Ocean in this unspoiled corner of Mendocino County. Hayes and Martin have been farmers for more than a dozen years, since Martin earlier scouted out the property to fulfill her desire to live off the land and grow her own food. Fruit trees were just about perfect for picking in early June. Hayes, a gifted musician, had been playing in various popular bands.   His creativity extends to the outdoors and he shares Martin's love of the land.  Together they decided to pursue an organic farming endeavor, which has grown into a successful venture. FOR SEVERA L years, the two have grown much of what they consume, eating what is available in each season and selling surplus to markets and restaurants.  One of their major clients is Uneda Eat, a small, upscale restaurant in downtown Point Arena specializing in "local, organic and lusty" meals.  We sampled gorgeous rabbit and tenderloin with amazing appetizers and salads, made with Purple Martin produce. A picturesque pond on the property is surrounded by trees and shrubs. Usually, there's something left of the bounty for guests, friends, neighbor and family.  Hayes' father, Jim Hayes, lives in nearby Point Arena, and is an occasional dinner guest at the farm, stopping at the store for the odd jug of lemonade or pound of coffee beans the couple need to fill out a meal menu. THEY TRADE  their bounty for the few things their industrious efforts don't provide -- meat and poultry, goat cheese and sometimes jams, chutney or other specialty items. One of Kelle's magnificent bouquets graces the couple's kitchen table, with newly harvested squash, lemons and apricots. When we visited last week, James (happily, he's my nephew) made a call to a friend who provided gorgeous lamb chops in exchange for wine. (Thanks again, James and Kelle, for the wonderful meal.) Hayes makes his own gluten-free bread, using interesting yeasts and cultures, including sauerkraut juice! We sampled his delicious, tangy sour dough bread with homemade strawberry preserves. Lamb chops, fresh off the grill, are a treat -- traded for wine and veggies. Purple flowers attract bees and human admirers at Purple Martin Farm near Point Arena, California. THE COUPLE'S work ethic is of the Old School.  Hayes' dad is a New Yorker who gave up a thriving but intense law practice to become a successful potter in the more laid back environment of northern California in the late 1960s.  James' late mother, Peny, was a gifted musician, artist and dance teacher, who also loved to Kelle traveled the world -- France to Australia -- before settling down. bake, garden, draw and sing. She moved from Montana to a northern California commune in the early 1970s, where she met the senior Hayes.  Before her untimely death from leukemia in 1986, the couple had two children: James and his older sister, Amarylla Penelope Hayes Ganner, who lives in the Bay Area with her husband, Steve, and kids, James and Peny, recently featured here. YOUNG HAYES  lived a nature-driven life as a child and remembers growing up with a cow, fresh berry pie and a huge garden on the family's Manchester farm property. James on bass, Cookie on piano, a young rising vocalist and Millie the doggie, enjoy an evening music session. HE IS a voracious reader and turned me onto "slow food" articles and books about nutrition and organic farming. Kelle's parents, too, were grounded in the land and her five siblings visit the farm and sometimes aid in its upkeep, clearing brush and harvest. The advantages to organic gardening are, of course, control over what you grow.  You plant the seeds, nurture the young plants, make sure the soil is rich and clean, provide James, right, and Kelle, left, with his father, Jim Hayes, and his auntie Cookie, aka Christene Meyers. adequate water and pinch off excess.  Eventually you have eggplant, zucchini, broccoli, tomatoes and, if you're James and Kelle, a half-dozen kinds of lettuce and salad greens. THE DOWN  side of organic gardening is the necessity of adequate insect and pest management. "It's a continuing challenge," Hayes said.  Because insects are mobile and can outsmart farmers, they need to be "outwitted" rather than eliminated.  During our brief visit, we observed the destruction by a lettuce eating pest who virtually wiped out an entire row of produce overnight. So Hayes and Martin are studying how various insects go about sustaining themselves and collecting the necessities of life, hoping to use their knowledge to manipulate the critters into actually protecting crops. Hayes' musical talent carries on the tradition of his mother's family, the Cosgriffes. His dad sings and appreciates. MEANWHILE , the hours are long and the two get weary. But they're not party poopers. Besides the gardening, harvesting and wine making, they are both accomplished cooks, and served up several feasts during our too brief visit.  They also staged a couple concerts -- with a young neighbor singing, myself on piano and Hayes on bass. He still plies his musical trade in a couple local bands, having played in venues in San Francisco and up and down the coast since his teen-age days. Rows of beautiful onions, broccoli, greens and herbs await picking and cleaning. Now in their late thirties and early forties, Hayes and Martin stay fit in their outdoor endeavors, hikes and keeping the acreage groomed and productive. She is also known in the county for her spectacular floral arrangements, which she markets for special events, dinners, weddings, memorials and other celebrations. For more about their enterprise, contact Purple Martin Farm at 707 882-3709 (you'll get a voice recording, probably, because James and Kelle will be at work outdoors.) Uneda Eat's phone is 707 882-3800 on Main Street, Point Arena. Reservations are recommended. Bon appetite! Moss Landing pelicans preen for kayaking nature lovers. COMING UP:  Our California idyll continues with a serene morning on an estuary near Moss Landing, with pelicans overhead. Launch yourself into a nature preserve, surrounded by sea otters. And learn with Cookie how to stay dry in a kayak! We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventures, off the beaten track. Tell your friends about us: www.whereiscookie.com and look for us Wednesdays and weekends.

PERFECT SETTING, CALM CALIFORNIA WATERS HELP GIRL GET BACK IN THE BOAT Pelicans at Moss Landing were part of the lure to get Cookie back in the kayak after an accident derailed her. Cookie musters her intrepid bravery chip and prepares to kayak again.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A KAYAKING KID  am I now,  thanks to friends who coaxed me back onto the water. They knew I'd had a kayaking accident on my one and only attempt at the sport -- hit by a wave in the South Pacific and overturned in Bora Bora. So I'd been reluctant -- even though that was 20 years ago. The soothing setting of friends' redwood forest home prepared our travelers for a tranquil time in the kayak. They assured me that the waters at Moss Landing, near Santa Cruz, California, were welcoming and gentle.  And that we would return before the tide made kayaking difficult. AND SO  it came to pass. We ladies sipped coffee on the redwood forest patio of our hosts while the boys put the kayaks on top of the van.  The girls packed jackets and waterproof booties in the economy car and we met at the pretty little village. Moss Landing is a quaint, historic fishing town smack in the middle of California's Monterey Bay coastline. Although I'd traveled this stretch of coastline many times, I'd never stopped to savor this hidden treasure. Moss Landing is at the red "A" marking BESIDES  galleries and shops, there are many nature related activities including whale watching and simply walking the unspoiled beach. Beautiful, historic accommodations and fun restaurants lure tourists. In fact, surfers were readying to ride the waves as we unpacked the kayaks. I fortified myself with herbal calm pills. Brad Smith, old friend and college buddy of Keller's, guided me into our kayak and helped me arrange myself comfortably.  I was in the front.  Keller was in the rear, and soon we were paddling our way out into Elkhorn Slough, internationally known for its splendid Brad Smith, left, and Bruce Keller: a water-laced friendship. wildlife viewing. Brad and his wife Maggie led the path into a marshy panorama. SOME   FOLKS  venture out into the harbor in search of whales, but because of my long ago mishap, our friends recommended staying in the calmer inland waters of the Slough, which provided us close-up views of dozens of river otters.  We could hear them crunching on crabs, opening them on rocks or their own breast bones.  Crack, crack, crunch, crunch.  It was wonderful. A river otter basks in the sun and readies himself for his water borne meal. The Monterey Bay's river otter diet consists of crayfishes, crabs, and other aquatic invertebrates. More daring otters also eat frogs.      They dine on the water, lying on their backs, with their food on the chest. Takes dining al fresco to new heights!  DESPITE CONCERN  that otters compete with game fishers, the fishes otters like are mainly non-game species. Otters  also occasionally prey on birds, rabbits, and rodents if they get too close to the water. Thanks to Brad's and Maggie's kayaking expertise, we watched sea otters dining for a couple hours. Maggie and Brad Smith enjoy the serenity in their kayak. Then came the pelicans, the other star of our adventure, also adept at eating on the run -- or shall we say "on the fly"? WITH ITS  showy plumage and distinct feeding methods, the brown pelican we watched at Moss Landing sets itself apart from seven other pelican species. It's a small species, and the only one known to dive and dine. Most pelican species feed by corralling fish into shallow waters through a group chase before scooping them up with their large beaks. Brown pelicans have their own method: once they spot the light reflecting off the scales of fish, they plunge Brad packs the kayaks up again. into the water from heights of up to 70 feet, scoop up fish, drain water through their beaks and tip their heads back to swallow. Air sacs beneath their skin protect them from injury when they hit the water. KAYAKING  got us up close and personal to the otter and his neighbor the pelican -- with dozens near us on the shore, and many swooping overhead to fish and frolic. We also saw many large sea lions and smaller seals. And a fish lunch, made to order, after the adventure. I NOW  trust kayaking, and will try it again.  I found it to be a relaxing sport, with sound instruction (which I obviously didn't have my first fateful time), and with good equipment, which Brad and Maggie provided. The Inuit word, kayak, means "man's boat" but we girls held up our end! We weren't exactly "at one" with our kayak -- Keller is a better paddler than I  -- but after a couple kayaking hours, we looked like we knew what we were doing.  Mostly. And from the beginning, I was relaxed, calm, full of wonder, grateful for kind friends and the opportunity to conquer an old demon. The Sundial Bridge in Redding, Calif., is world famous and a wonderful walking adventure. NEXT UP :  Location, location, location.  The Sundial Bridge in Redding, Calif., is a wondrous, walkable work of art. It's in a pretty city you might never have visited.  And it's both a bridge and the world's largest sundial.  And a unique B&B is walking distance from the bridge.  What makes a B&B special? Find out next as we visit the Bridge House Bed and Breakfast, and take a stroll across the famous bridge. We're about travel, the arts and adventure, with a sense of fun. Join us on a northern California wildlife trek, a return to Hearst Castle, and our picks for "hot, hip coastal hotels." Explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: w ww.whereiscookie.com

BEAUTIFUL SUNDIAL BRIDGE IS THE CENTERPIECE FOR YEAR-ROUND RECREATION, ART, NATURE VIEWING, FABULOUS DINING The beautiful Sundial Bridge in Redding, California, draws visitors from throughout the world.  The Bridgehouse Bed and Breakfast in Redding is a unique B&B. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I'D NEVER SPENT time in Redding, Calif., but the opportunity seemed too good to miss when our travels took us to Mount Shasta for a friend's 60th birthday party. Dara Engelhardt and Logan Engelhardt are part of the family enterprise that is Gironda's Restaurant and Bar, a fun find in Redding. We spent time on their houseboat, enjoying the water and their family, took a side trip to our beloved Ashland, Oregon, for an all-female production of "Two Gentlemen of Verona," and had a night to indulge ourselves before heading to the Redding airport for our flight back to San Diego. Keller found a fabulous Bed and Breakfast, and I located a delightful Italian restaurant. They were only blocks apart -- conveniently -- and each equaled anything we've sampled in the Americas or Europe. Who knew? REDDING'S MAIN  attraction is Keller, in silhouette, pauses at the base of the Sundial Bridge in Redding. the spectacular Sundial Bridge at Turtle Bay, which crosses the lovely Sacramento River in the middle of town.  Locals are rightly proud of the bridge, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.  Designed by renowned Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the 700-foot long steel, glass and granite walking bridge is a lively local landmark and a conduit to hiking and biking trails and the river's own National Recreation Trail, a 10-mile path running along both sides of the mighty Sacramento.  We walked a half mile or so, and enjoyed an Italian ice from a young vendor working her way through college to be a kindergarten teacher. THE THRILL  of finding a first-rate Italian restaurant near our B&B was as exciting as discovering the bridge. In fact, our whole "Redding experience" was one delightful surprise after the other. Gironda's Restaurant and Bar is a family operation and Colton and Terri Engelhardt have cultivated a loyal local clientele and a steady stream of appreciative tourists.  Their ambitious menu includes tasty appetizers such as crispy calamari and steamer clams, fried raviolis and artichoke and spinach dip (all fantastic). THEN CHOOSE  your entree from a delightful offering of pastas, beef and chicken entrees, pizzas, salads, raviolis and more than a dozen vegetarian entrees. Gironda's, a family run Italian restaurant, is a huge hit, a real find.  If you love Italian and homemade sauces, you won't do better in this part of California, or for that matter, in Italy! The eggplant parmesan was, the best we've had anywhere -- zesty, with just the right combo of veggie, sauce, cheeses and spices. The Engelhardts maintain a family spirit which engenders loyalty, quality.  Rich creamy desserts can be sampled, and labeled! Cookie reads up on her next day's schedule before retiring at Bridgehouse. Artful touches abound on the patio and indoors at Bridgehouse Bed and Breakfast in Redding, Calif. SERVICE IS attentive but not intrusive, the decor and background music are welcoming and subtle and the food is superb. Happy hour extends from 4 p.m. on and we toasted with a fine, inexpensive carafe of the house red wine. Our servers, Katie Bramblett and Amy Pick, were cordial and helpful and although we arrived late -- and lingered -- we were never rushed.  Yummy homemade desserts include a classic tiramisu, a wonderful lemon berry mascarpone crumb cake and a creamy family recipe cheesecake. THE NEARBY  Bridgehouse Bed and Breakfast is a cozy eight-room, two-house enterprise run by country music fan Janelle Pierson, who has decorated her artful hallways and music room with signed posters of her favorite singers.  The homes are handsome and welcoming, appointed with flair and thoughtful regard for all the amenities one expects in a high-end boutique hotel. REDDING IS  suffering from a serious drought, like much of California, so the yards and gardens are dry.  Still, the lovely McConnell Arboretum and Botanical Gardens are impressive and this pretty town has everything a larger city offers, plus a small-town friendly feel. Parks, theaters, galleries, restaurants, mining and railroad history, flowers, wildlife and bird watching are plentiful, and nearby sites beckon, such as the 1945 Shasta Dam, the largest center overflow dam in the world. B Bryan Preserve in northern California is helping save endangered species. THE WHISKEYTOWN National Recreation area is eight miles west of the city and offers additional opportunities for water sports, hiking, biking and horseback riding. Other noteworthy bridges include Stress Ribbon, the state's first significant pedestrian bridge.                          * UP NEXT : Point Arena, California, offers the charm of a laid-back northern California coastal community, with an unusual wildlife preserve nearby. Come with us to the B Bryan Preserve which raises and nurtures endangered African wildlife.  We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventure.  Join us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie at Oceanside Harbor in southern California, with Nick and Nora, beginning a recent two-week odyssey.  COOKIE'S MOTHER'S MILK: TRAVEL ENRICHES, ENLIGHTENS, ENERGISES Cookie, right, age three, sister Peny with their mother Ellen. Already, she was a "seasoned" traveler. I KEEP  my  passport renewed and ready to go, and my bag is always packed.  I could be ready to head for the airport with a half hour's notice. I don't really care where I'm going, as long as I'm on my way. Keller christens a new adventure with champagne! When people say "Oh, I've done  Paris" (or the Amazon, an African safari or the Antarctic) I cringe.  They've done  the place! Impossible. A Bedouin takes to his transport at the Pyramids in Egypt.  Just as no two days are alike, no two trees exactly the same, or no two people identical, no city, island or place remains static. We don't eat a single meal and say we're done with dining! I'VE BEEN  on more than 100 cruises and each one offers new excitement and experiences, even if the ports might be repeats.  I've been to Paris a dozen times and never fail to feel its magic anew.  I've been on the Amazon three times and hope I have another three trips in me. Ditto, my many trips to Ireland, the Hawaiian Islands, and Australia and New Zealand, where I'll return in November. Two kids with wanderlust:  Cookie and Keller at Belem Castle in Lisbon. My mother took me on my first road trip when I was just over two and my sister Peny was not quite one.  We drove to Kansas in a green Oldsmobile, with my grandparents, Gus and Olive Nystul, to visit my great-aunt Lillian and her husband Ronnie.  It was a month of total magic to me and I vividly remember the drive-in stops for milk shakes, the Mount Rushmore sculptures, the motel rooms, menus I collected, stories my grandpa told and movie ticket stubs.  It was my own Yellow Brick Road and I've followed it ever since. I DISCOVERED  a few months back that my great great grandfather was ambassador to the Netherlands from his native England. That explains both why I am a die-hard Anglophile, and why I have incurable wanderlust. Cookie, right, and her sister Misha on Mission Bay, San Diego. Many of my favorite travel memories have to do with water -- bays, oceans, rivers.  Others have to do with theater, and I'm waiting for a play right now in Ashland, Oregon, an all-female production of "Two Gentlemen of Verona."  The Oregon Shakespeare Festival is another ever-changing tradition for me.  Each play is unique -- each "Two Gents" spectacular. The scholar Augustine of Hippo said, “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” MARK TWAIN   believed travel to be "fatal to bigotry, prejudice and narrow mindedness." And Jack Kerouac referred to his love of each "new, crazy adventure  beneath the skies."  Queen Califia's Magical Circle in Escondido was a surprise find, as our travelers happened upon it while picnicking in Kit Carson Park.  Many of us love travel and live for each new trip. It enlarges, enlivens, enlightens! It gives energy.  It's mother's milk. Keller's grandmother was a travel agent in Minneapolis.  She immigrated from Sweden, took many tour groups back to her native land, and was around the world five times by the time Keller was ten years old. He, too, came by his wanderings naturally, lived in Saudi Arabia and has traveled the world. OUR BEST  times together are on our travel adventures.  Whether it's a day trip to the country (where we often stumble upon magic) or a month-long odyssey to South America or the Far East, we are grateful for each new day together, and the opportunity to share the world's wonders as a team -- partners in life, adventure and this blog.  COMING NEXT:   Cookie and Keller take to a kayak, and manage to stay afloat. A peaceful estuary at Moss Landing reveals gorgeous and graceful clam-crunching otters, huge sea lions belching and making other noises not appropriate to mention in polite company, and dozens of pelicans preening and lunching. We are about travel with a sense of fun and adventure off the beaten track. Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

PORTRAITS YIELD JEWELS, CHAR ACTERS  ON GOLDEN STATE ROAD TRIP  Penelope Margaret Ganner, our great niece, pauses in her Redwood City garden, south of San Francisco. Kristen Keller and her boyfriend Zack have fun. They   drove from South Lake Tahoe to meet us in Sacramento, STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER BEFORE WE launch our road-trip revels, we offer this photo essay.  It's a preview of our Music is a family tradition.  Cookie plays piano with James on bass and a young, talented vocalist friend. upcoming "California Top to Bottom" series, a pictorial look at some of the personalities, critters and characters we encountered on our 17-day foray from San Diego to Mendocino County -- from the state's sunny southern tip to the foggy north coast .  In between we enjoyed dozens of activities, dinners, communions with nature and surprises. A giraffe at B Bryan Preserve near Point Arena plays to his audience. We met Keller's daughter Kristen and boyfriend in Sacramento, my niece Amarylla and family near San Francisco and nephew James and partner at their farm north of Point Arena. We shopped, looked for healthy take-out and paid a dime each for paper bags. Kayakers enjoy a close-up view of nature at Moss Landing near Santa Cruz . WE STOPPED in 33 towns and overnighted in 11 venues -- from dog-friendly hotels on the beach and the varied city and country homes of family and friends. Our first stop was Los Angeles for time with our theater-loving pals, the Hulberts, and a fabulous production of "Porgy and Bess" at the Ahmanson Theater. Our revels ended with seafood lunch in Oceanside, at a favorite harbor eatery in the town of Keller's childhood.  We stayed with friends in Downey and near Santa Cruz, and we enjoyed favorite hotels in Bodega Bay, San Simeon and Santa Barbara. We even babysat one night, so our San Francisco niece and her husband could have a rare date night without kids. We enjoyed the little people -- but were reminded why childcare demands the energy mostly available to the young! LEAVING  Amarylla and Steve Ganner enjoyed an adult date night while our travelers babysat for James and Peny.  Sea lions bask in the sun at Moss Landing near Santa Cruz.   the Bay Area, we headed inland through farm land -- Pixley, Fresno -- away from the coast and toward Sacramento.  WE FEASTED on berries, cherries and avocados, homemade tortilla chips, fig bars and delicious dehydrated beets slow-baked in oil and sea salt.  Then back to the coast highway and up to Bodega Bay and north, past Sea Ranch, Gualala and north of Point Arena. We saw where Alfred Hitchcock filmed "The Birds" and watched many wonderful birds ourselves -- pecking at trees and lunch, and fortunately not humans. CALIFORNIA cleans up when it comes to interesting people -- from playful tots to colorful, opinionated adults, to a 93 year- old bugler who serenades folks on the beach near Santa Barbara.  All loved showing off their state -- whether sharing music, fresh produce and sunshine, or a ride on a kayak to a nature preserve. Not all the characters we encountered were human. We also met giraffes, otters, zebras and, of course, plenty of canines in this dog-friendly state. WE DRANK plenty of wine -- some homemade -- and feasted on lamb, cod, mahi mahi, duck, chicken, beef, shrimp, mussels Bugler Dezso Tenke plays his instrument daily, here for tourists at Ventura Harbor. His "Taps" won cheers! and crab. Always with plenty of gorgeous salads and vegetables. We played music, hiked, took photos, and watched sea lions bark for scraps and power. We forded rivers and took to the streams and a magnificent estuary where pelicans flew over our kayak. It was a magical 17 days.  Jim Hayes plays with his iPod at the Point Arena Cove.  We are back in San Diego, rested and revived with hundreds of photos and happy memories.  Did we really drive 1,541 miles?  Or were we "California dreaming"?   WE'LL BE writing about our visit to San Simeon, the Central Coast, and the Hearst Castle.  We'll take you to the glorious Purple Mountain Farm in northern California. Its flowers and food are known and loved by locals and tourists. Bailie serves with a smile at the popular Oceanside Broiler. We'll kayak with pelicans, seals and sea otters. We'll visit a wildlife preserve which is saving endangered animals before they become extinct in their native Africa. James Brian Ganner plays on his new instrument --  his recently delivered piano, which came from San Diego  to his Bay Area home so he can take lessons. WE'LL VISIT fruit stands and we'll share some fabulous meals and recipes -- home cooking as well as organic produce prepared in small, hip and healthy restaurants.   We'll talk about piano playing and music as a family tradition.  We'll show music is a conduit for socializing  and making new friends. It's going to take a few days to come down.  Meanwhile, come enjoy with us...... COMING SOON: One of our "California characters" is Cookie's nephew and Keller's friend, James W. Hayes, far left. With his partner Kelle Martin, Hayes makes fine wine and grows organic vegetables in northern California. We'll visit Purple Martin Farm for a look at the gorgeous flowers and vegetables that find their way to Point Arena's delightful restaurant, Uneda Eat. (L-R: James Hayes, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Jim Hayes, Kelle Martin, Bruce Keller.) We're about adventure with a sense of fun, weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

TRAVELER'S BALANCING ACT: HAVING A GOOD TIME MEANS ENJOYING THE MOMENT, BUT BEING READY TO BE SPONTANEOUS, SMELL THE ROSES  One of the continent's largest markets was a surprise find for our travelers in Sao Paulo, Brazil.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS The rugged Costa Brava provided a scenic vista with surprising views. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER MY GRANDFATHER  said, "When a plum falls from the sky, open your mouth." Thanks for the wisdom, gramps. I've enjoyed many a "plum" on your advice. The trick is not letting it hit you on the head! Keep your eyes on the prize but watch where you're going. TRAVELING WELL   is a balancing act, as is the art of living itself. Jerusalem's cavernous Church of the  Holy Sepulchre and nearby  Western Wall yielded a surprise.  I  plan our large trips two and three years ahead, spending hours, days even weeks checking resources, making reservations, researching hotels, cruises, museums.  I scour brochures and the internet for car rental options, theater choices, eateries, hikes and outings that make the locale unique.  I consider the appeal of cities and towns themselves, weighing their strengths against our preferences. A visit to Key Largo, Florida, prompted a cocktail party. ONCE ON  the road, though, I'm ready for adventure. I like to be happily surprised.  Good thing, because my partner-photographer Keller likes to explore. A spontaneous city tour led us to one of South America's largest markets in the center of Sao Paulo Brazil. We're still enjoying the cumin and cinnamon from a wonderful spice shop, and we feasted for two days on the fruit. An unplanned hike to a Costa Rica park introduced this lizard. WE'VE TAKEN  side roads that lead to dead ends, with cattle grazing in open range.  We've taken roads that lead to splendid vistas and riverbanks with migrating geese. Once, in remote eastern Spain, we stumbled upon a 12th Century village with only one other stroller and a golden lab snoozing in the sun. BEING FLEXIBLE  and curious on the road means having a more relaxing time.  A recent  day trip in Guatemala produced friends to lunch with.  I like to take off my watch on a sunny southern European morning. Shedding that reminder of time and the "real world" opens my mind and heart. Our Costa Brava adventure last November yielded not only the beautiful village, but a small town with a hardware store!  Keller found a transformer to step our electronics down from 220 volts to 110.  He was a kid in the candy shop, in the Spanish version of Ace Hardware. MEETING HELPFUL , friendly people is another bonus of flexible travel. We've never had a problem getting grounded or back on track and we've been lost countless times. Sailing off the beaten path yielded this lovely picnic setting near Seattle. Don't be hesitant about pulling over into the farmer's yard if you see him baling hay.  He'll point you to the little lake down the road with a stunning view of the sunset. He'll tell you where to find watercress or a waterfall up the trail. We happened upon a pretty park in Yuma, Arizona, which became our picnic stop on many trips between Phoenix and San Diego ANOTHER TIME  -- and this was a Keller solo -- we were touring Jerusalem with friends. Entering the Western Wall, honoring tradition, we went our separate ways -- men on the left side, women on the right, separated by a stone wall. Keller and Cookie took time to be silly on a Las Vegas trip. I watched from the female side as Keller followed a group of male mourners into a small room. "Oh, my," I thought.  "He'll miss the 4 p.m. tour departure for the Church of the Holy Seplulchre. He made the meeting time, though, wide eyed from his discovery.  He'd been invited to join the family as the kaddish was offered and took beautiful photos the rest of us missed. IN COSTA  Rica a few weeks ago, we took a hike on a trail recommended by new friends, and came upon a lizard who inflated his throat into an amazing red balloon! Smelling the "flowers" in travel is literal and figurative. In Guatemala, we met a couple from Sweden who invited us to sail with them and join them for lunch! In Florida, we toured with two couples who invited us to a spontaneous cocktail hour and a fascinating boat ride where we came upon mating turtles.  Stopping to "smell the roses," we enjoyed a rare bloom in the ocean's garden. IF YOU do get lost -- or lose your companion --  e calm.  Have a game plan before, as we do, that if you can't find one another you'll return to your last meeting place. Finally, don't be afraid to be silly and have fun. Inspired by the crazy mix of people in  Las Vegas a couple years ago, we changed our hair styles had  fun with a "punky" self portrait. James Hayes, with his dog Millie, grows organic vegetables and makes wine in a   northern California farm with a social conscience. Next up at whereiscookie.com   NEXT UP :  California's north coast yields many pleasures, including this special farm, where wine is made and organic produce is grown and sold to a restaurant with healthy and tasteful delights for the palate. We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventure.  Join us to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com