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Nick enjoys a romp at Harrah's Rincon near San Diego. Make your journey fun,  safe and smooth sailing  when you're traveling with four-footed pals   Nora is not certain she is enthused about a walk during a break between flights.      whether by plane or car, these tips will help you and pup enjoy STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Nick and Nora, Cookie and Keller enjoy a  break during Montana travel. IF YOUR  four-footed friend is part of the family, as are our Nick and Nora, you'll want to take them with you when you travel. Whether you journey by car or plane, these few tricks from a lifetime of traveling with pets, are offered to help make your journey and your pup's more pleasurable. FIRST, DO  your homework. If you're driving, make a plan for stops based on dog friendly hotels and motels.  There are many nowadays -- not the case 25 years ago when only a few hostelries accepted pets.  Now, pets may stay with you in many places -- even Nick is at home with his toy, enjoying the Omni Hotel in Los Angeles.  some fancy B&Bs, and in certain Hyatts, Hiltons, Ritz Carltons, Red Lions, Best Westerns, Ramadas, and so on. We've taken our Yorkies to the beautiful Omni in Los Angeles, where they were given their own gift bag and special treats. WE'VE ENJOYED  the hospitality of a lovely dog-friendly wing at Harrah's Rincon northeast of San Diego. First, driving with your pups: *Once you've determined your route --  based on dog-friendly options -- make your reservations, asking for a room on a floor convenient to exiting. *Don't plan to do more than 300 or 350 miles a day- that's plenty for both human and canine. Nick and Nora are pooped but patient after a day on the road.  *Give pup his own place of honor in the car, on his own comfy pillow or doggie bed.  If it's hot, make sure he has plenty of air from the conditioner, or a crack in the window. *Take frequent breaks, at least every 100 or 125 miles. Walk a bit, to a creek or river, or in a pleasant park or rest stop. *Have a couple bottles of ice water in the cooler and make sure you offer pup plenty of water both inside and outside the car. Bring his own water bowl if you've room. *Minimize treats, offering a couple times a day, as a reward for playing catch with the toys you've taken along or walking with you. A stroll on Fisherman's Wharf for Nick, Nora, Cookie. *Have a separate tote bag for doggie stuff -- leashes, treats, enough kibbles for at least three meals. (No need to haul a 15-pound bag into the room each night, so leave the large stash in the car.) *Be sure you have pup's medical documents safely packed in his tote. Make certain his shots are current. *Include a favorite blanket or pillow to make him secure in the room. Let him socialize, if you normally do.  He'll make new friends on your walks. So will you. *Once you're inside, set out his water bowl immediately and put the blanket on a chair or bed where he'll be spending time.  Let him get familiar with the place. *Always carry a couple doggie pee-pads and put one in the bathroom just in case. Your pup will probably not have an accident, but sometimes travel can distress. Be forgiving. * KEEP TO  his schedule as best you can and don't leave him too long in the room. Nick takes a snooze on the road in dog-friendly Carmel. *We always tune in a TV program for Nick and Nora, usually the Discovery Channel, CNN or PBS. Classical music or jazz also seems to keep our pups calm.  Give a treat as you leave the room and thank pup for being such a good traveler. On a plane, things are a bit more complicated. *Make sure the airline knows you're "traveling with pet in cabin" and this means an extra charge -- usually $125 or $150 for coming and going. *Purchase or borrow the regulation carrier provided by pet stores and airline approved. *Get your vet to give you a prescription for a pet tranquilizer and use it a half-hour before you hit the airport. Keller, Nick and Nora in Santa Barbara. * GIVE PET  a good walk before you fly, and feed him about an hour before you head for the airport. That way, pup will likely sleep -- with the food digesting and his prescription tranquilizer (we use only half a pill for our 10-pounders and it's plenty). *Take off his collar before you head for TSA. Makes it easier because you'll have to carry him through x-ray with you (obviously, he must be taken out of his carry-on.) *Take along an EMPTY water bottle in his sherpa, and fill it as soon as you clear security. *Don't take him out of the carry-on -- it is forbidden. (I learned the hard way.) *Talk to him often -- he'll be under the seat in front of you. *Save your plastic cup. After you drink your cranberry juice or soda, use it to offer a drink to pup. *Tuck the leash in your purse or pup's carry-on. *Offer a treat once or twice during the flight and if it's a long day of travel, you may need to "re-up" the tranquilizer. In Downey, Calif., at the home of friends, the Yorkies are part of the family. *Tell your seat-mate that you have a doggie under the seat in case he yelps or causes a disturbance -- which may happen, but usually doesn't. *Take advantage of airport "doggie stations" if you're traveling more than one or two legs and have long lay-overs. You have to go back out of security, then in again, but your pet will thank you.  Some cities such as Davis, Calif., Salt Lake City, Phoenix, Portland and Seattle have cute little dog-walk parks right on airport grounds. *Travel safely and with patience and humor! AT LEAST  one airline -- Alaska -- is considering giving mileage points for pet travel.  They should. It's expensive and we do all the work when the pet's in the cabin with us!  Torrey Pines Glider Port attracts tourists, locals, at sunset . COMING SOON:   A look at the magnificent Bair Museum in Martinsdale, a little treasure tucked away in the Crazy Mountains.  And summer fun with music, a world class glider port in San Diego, photography pointers and reveling in the natural world. Explore, learn and live Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

San Diego venue plays host to international adventurers A gorgeous, golden afternoon brings out gliders galore to the famed Torrey Pines Gliderport north of San Diego, Calif. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WITH THOUGHTS  of Peter Pan -- or Sally Field in "The Flying Nun," -- I gazed, spellbound, as  Folks bring chairs and watch the gliders. a 40-something man took flight. Our venue was the world famous Torrey Pines Gliderport, an historic flight park on the ocean's edge, founded in 1928. My "glider guide" was my partner, Bruce Keller, who has more tricks up his sleeve than a Las Vegas magician. Safely on terra firma, these gliders expressed elation at their experience. "I had no idea you knew so much about gliding," I gulped, as we walked to the edge of a cliff and he began to explain wind currents and sail plaining, describing all the necessary gear:  reserve chutes, harnesses, helmets and more. He knows his stuff. I KNEW  Keller spent years navigating the azure Pacific out his back door. He snorkles, scuba dives, sails and swims.  This fella understands wind, so I should have guessed he also has a handle on flying through the air with the greatest of ease.   The Torrey Pines Gliderport is a wonder to behold, a sentimental and spectacular favorite spot of locals and a sought- after tourist destination.  Keller has been a fan for years and is proud of its international appeal.  On our  The Torrey Pines cliffs could be dangerous, but skilled gliders navigate them artfully. several visits together, we heard French, Italian, German and Japanese, along with the usual English and Spanish spoken in San Diego environs.     We watched as certified instructors coached people from their twenties well into their seventies in the art of flying high by the clouds. I GOT A   crash course in paragliders and hang gliders. Hang gliders have solid wing structures and an aluminum frame, creating a V-shaped wing that resembles a stealth bomber. Paragliders have soft wing structures -- no internal frame.  Once inflated, they take on an elliptical shape. TORREY  Pines, a gorgeous, much photographed and well used scenic area in north La Jolla, is also a favorite of golfers -- you've seen televised tournaments there if you're an aficionado.  The park is also beloved as a fundraising venue.  Many films and commercials have been shot there, because of the stunning scenery.  I watched in wonder as advanced gilders soared over the cliffs and ocean, sweeping magically, then eventually landing in one piece, with a graceful downward or sideways motion. The art is in moving their bodies to bend with the wind and navigating the way they want to. Gliders float high above the Pacific, and see wonders beneath and all around. Wind conditions, of course, play a major role in the success of the adventure. Skilled gliders learn how to determine when the wind is best for prime soaring. I THINK  of myself as a fairly gutsy gal, but I fear I haven't the courage to soar with the hawks. For now, I'm content to watch and sigh, eyes heavenward, as the Torrey Pines gliders show me their stuff. I'm no cliff hanger, except as an appreciator.  And count me in as a fan of the Cliff Hanger Cafe at Torrey Pines Gliderport, which serves up yummy sandwiches, soups and salads. If you're braver than this reporter, you can hire certified instructors at the venue, or give a gift A glider lands with grace and ease at Torrey Pines Gliderport, which has been beloved since 1928. certificate to a loved one.  Call 858 452-9858 or go to www.flytorrey.com GLIDING BUFFS  are fit, trim and healthy looking.  And if you're looking for a romantic adventure with your sweetheart, you can fly tandem. What a thought! Keller could nudge me to consciousness if I fainted from terror.   Landlocked for now, Cookie may some day soar with the gliders. Could Nick and Nora come along? I long for the courage to brave it, for it looks like a wondrous pursuit -- the clouds close enough to touch, birds, whales and seals to enjoy, and the Pacific shimmering below. This past spring, we saw the migrating grey whales here, enroute to the Baja to give birth. For now, I'll do my flying in a 747. And my sailing in a boat.  But maybe sometime I'll glide! If not in this life, then in the next! "Uncle Cog," Harry A. Cosgriffe, atop his favorite horse at his Crazy Mountain ranch. COMING SATURDAY :  A tribute to a special uncle, as we attend his classic Montana send-off memorial.  "Uncle Cog" was beloved by many and a weekend celebration to honor his memory included music, prose, flowers, food, dancing, reminiscing, tears and laughter. That's this July 20 at www.whereiscookie.com Then we look at a family's challenge and rewards of nurturing a baby born with a birth defect. It truly takes a village! Plus more travel tips and photography pointers. Tune us in Wednesdays and Saturdays and remember to explore, learn and live.

HORSE HAS BEEN AROUND LONGER THAN WE THOUGHT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and JANE MILDER   This scene, of horses in pasture framed by the Crazy Mountains,   epitomizes the grandeur of Big Sky Country to many Montanans.  No horsing around. The horse goes back farther than we imagined.  So an homage seems in order.  With Fourth of July parades and the horse the star of the rodeo, we have new scientific information about his history.  But first, allow me some steed-steeped memories. MY CHILDHOOOD HORSE  was Peanuts.  He was 18 years old and three of us pre-schoolers could fit in the sway of his patient back.  He remains the favorite horse of many I've ridden since. There was Pedro delivering me safely down a rocky trail high above the sea, to the famed Leper Colony of Molokai. He was a mule, actually, so only half-horse.  And he was sure-footed, although he frightened me a number of times as rocks slipped under his sturdy shoes.  I heard one crash down to the ocean from our trail, carved against the jagged cliffs above the Pacific. Pedro didn't blink. THERE WAS FRANCO,   sleek on a  white sand beach in Italy.  He galloped when I had no interest -- a Roman holiday for sure but he was too frisky for me. I hit the sand. There was Jose, sweetly obedient on the Acapulco shore. Maggie took me for a Montana ride, packing into the Crazies.  She was an eater and got me in trouble with the guide.  A herd of wild horses looks to include several pregnant mares, caught in a pause of grazing and moving. Hank in the Tetons. Too frisky for this reporter. Seth on a Taos trail.  He chewed his way along just fine. "I want an old horse, close to the ground and slow. I don't care if he stops to munch grass," I always tell the guides and packers. "And let me be the last rider." San Diego's East County has a volunteer police posse in which riders, including Linda Slater and her horse Wendy help out in full regalia. Horses have plowed our fields, forged our trails, moved our cattle and hunted our outlaws.  Today, they still provide valuable services, in sheriff's volunteer groups and police posses. The horse has played a part in my life -- on and off the trail.  Even in the theater. For the horse has long fascinated poets and playwrights. Several of my favorite plays involve horses. At the top of the list is "Equus."  Horse inspired plays have won Tony awards and toured the world. Horses are the heart of the Kentucky Derby and I've visited the famed Lipizzaner Stallions on their home turf of Vienna.  Horses and riders share a unique bond.  Reverie and fitness are just two of the offshoots of the friendship. Horses have long been beloved by royals; Queen Elizabeth II has visited Wyoming friends to view their thoroughbreds. A driver takes his passengers around town square in the Canary Islands. FOR HORSE LOVERS  , there's news about the history of this gorgeous beast. The horse is even older than we've thought. By piecing together new genetic information, scientists have deciphered the complete genome of an extinct prehistoric horse that roamed the Yukon more than 700,000 years ago.  Analyzing a fossilized bone, scientists are rewriting the evolutionary history of the horse and smashing the previous record for the oldest complete genome ever sequenced. Do you hear that, Jose, Franco, Wendy, Maggie?  Your ancestors are making history! A horse tips his head to a sunny winter day near Luther, MT. In the new study, an international team of scientists led by Ludovic Orlando and Eske Willerslev at the University of Copenhagen used what’s become a common approach: comparing the DNA of  modern species to DNA recovered from fossil remains. Their study focuses on a frozen, fossil bone fragment found near Thistle Creek, Canada. By pushing DNA sequencing technology to its limits, they were able to rewind the evolutionary clock back further than ever before. So the next time you put your backside on a horse, show some respect. You're throwing your leg over millions of years of evolutionary history -- and a critter whose history goes back more than 700,000 years! COMING SATURDAY:  Flower Power to the people, as the year marks its half-way point. Future posts will circle the globe, giving tips on travel and taking memorable photos abroad.  We'll also celebrate the joys and trials of life with a handicapped child, explore a glider port, look at the moon and more. Enjoy the  Fourth of July and remember to explore, learn and live. We post each Wednesday and Saturday at: www.whereiscookie.com

"The water's running free and it's waiting there for me.... cool, clear water." Here, at Black's Beach in northern San Diego County, a favorite of glider aficionados and nude sunbathers.  Water works its magic on lakes, rivers, oceans STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Ducks enjoy a pond in San Diego's Kit Karson Park. WARS HAVE  been fought over it, countries conquered and fortunes lost over it. Crops have flourished or languished depending on its availability. We would all die without it. Precious, beautiful, nourishing, calming water. We soak our feet in it, wash our clothes, keep our lawns and flowers gorgeous and use its ice to cool our beverages. San Francisco's skyline and waters provide pretty boat and ship photos. Nothing beats a long cool drink from my spring-fed pump after a day of digging, planting, hiking or mowing at High Chaparral in Montana's Beartooth Mountains. WATER COVERS  71 per cent of the Earth, working its magic and singing its siren song. Lovers and poets slosh around in it.  Hundreds of famous movie scenes involve water, including "Singing in the Rain" with the magnificent dancing of that dapper, umbrella toting Gene Kelly.  Or how about steamy beach-side love making? Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr do some heavy breathing on the sands in "From Here to Eternity." Recently, "Titanic" put a grim and spectacular spin on water's deadly potential. MY PARTNER, Bruce Keller, was born and raised on the Pacific Ocean of southern California and spent summers on a lakeside cabin in rural Minnesota. I grew up in a small Montana town on the Stillwater River, and live part of the year on the west fork of that river today. My sister Peny was a lifeguard at the Columbus Pool.  So was my cousin Cliff.  I remember them both diving into the waters, turning heads, cutting through the air  with grace. BOTH KELLER  and I love sailing, as faithfuls of this blog know. Among our most glorious times are afternoons spent sailing Mission Bay, sometimes just the two of us and other times with visiting family or sailing friends.  Our holidays always take us to the water -- the shores of Lisbon, the bay of Olbia in Sardinia, a Cookie and her Atlanta sister, Misha, enjoy a sail on Mission Bay. rooftop garden overlooking the canals of Venice, a barge cruise  through the Loire Valley, stopping at chateaux and tasting the treats of the vineyards. Dinner cruises are a favorite of ours -- on the Seine in Paris, on the Thames in London. Around Manhattan with its glorious architecture. When we visit Seattle, we book a room on Elliot Bay.  In San Francisco, we try to situate ourselves with a view of Golden Gate Bridge or Fisherman's Wharf. In New York, it's a treat to look down upon the East River and watch the city lights. Fisherman's Wharf is always a picturesque photo opportunity. WATER'S magical mix is one atom of oxygen and two atoms of hydrogen, bonded by sharing electrons. Water has carved many of the world's great sites, including Arizona's Grand Canyon and the mighty canyons of our own Yellowstone Park. If one believes the story of Noah, the dove signaled the end of the flood, returning with a sprig of tree to prove that land would once again return to Earth. Here in the northern Rockies, I've found seashells on my meanderings. On cruises and Atlantic crossings, we've admired the frigate birds that follow the ship, hundreds of miles from land. This wonderful bird, related to pelicans, is also called the pirate bird and can have a Whale watching and a sunset cruise combine to delight the writer and photographer off the coast of Santa Barbara.  wing span of nearly eight feet. Our healing tears are salty water and I'm convinced of the boost my mental health gets from the negative ions provided by the Pacific. It's a universal solvent and can -- with time -- dissolve anything, cutting through solid marble, stone and steel. "Water, water, cool, clear water" as the Marty Robbins song goes.  May we always treat it with reverence and respect and be grateful for its life-giving force. COMING SATURDAY : Our travelers take to the skies and byways, with tips on traveling with beloved pets. Pointers await, through the next few blogs, on traveling safely abroad and making the most of your time and dollar.

The blossoms that bloom in the spring -- tra la -- here on a lovely street in La Jolla, Calif. BOWERS OF BUDS TAKE A BOW  AS SUMMER SWEETLY BLOOMS  And nearer to the river's trembling edge There grew broad flag-flowers, purple pranked with white And starry river buds among the sedge And floating water lilies, broad and bright -- Percy Bysshe Shelley (more Shelley in italics below) STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS  Daffodils show their stuff in Montana's spring. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER When words don't seem adequate, or cannot be appropriately summoned, a flower or bouquet communicates. Flowers say "I love you," "I'm sorry for your loss," "congratulations," "I miss you" and "I was a jerk. Please forgive me." We use and enjoy flowers at weddings, birthdays and graduations.  They ease the pain at funerals and memorials, bringing a lightness and beauty to the somber scene. FOR CENTURIES,  flowers, herbs and plants have given pleasure to people of all the nations.  One of my most vivid flower memories is of a long-ago hike in the Balinese rain forest.  Bruce and I came upon a cremation ceremony, about 50 people dressed in beautiful garlands and gowns.  They asked us to join the processional, and gave us flower petals which we dropped on the ground behind the departed.  They carried her to a pyre, bedecked in flowers, deposited food and flowers at the base, and set the thing ablaze. Because their beauty has the ability to bring cheer when someone is ill, recovering or downhearted, their fragrances can be used to make lovely perfumes, delicate foliage can be used for certain medicines and foods, and pungent smells can effect a mood. Orchids at the entrance of La Jolla Shores Resort. And in the warm hedge grew lush eglantine, green cowbind and moonlight-coloured may, And cherry-blossoms, and white cups, whose wine Was the bright dew, yet drained not by the day Flowers have been around much longer than man.  Honeybees and hummingbirds were enjoying flowers long before FTD.  Poets and playwrights have celebrated flowers.  Many people have a favorite.  My mother's was the gardenia and it is mine today. In the world's great museums, flower portraits abound -- even before the Renaissance.  Monet's lilies and Van Gogh's sunflowers are universally beloved.   Succulents offer color, blooms and an attractive lure for hummingbirds. In fact, so deeply do we honor flowers that we have formulated a language about flowers called "floriography." This "language" was particularly utilized during the Victorian era. Flowers well into past generations have had religious and symbolic meanings, and still do today.  There are references  to flowers, herbs and plants in Biblical times, and during the Middle Ages, herbs were even believed by some to have magical powers. Therefore, they were given a place of honor in the royal floral gardens. The use of these floral "gardens" existed well into the Victorian era,and helped to create the elaborate list of meanings to describe these beloved flowers.  A bloom of a camellia entices the photographer in our town home courtyard in San Diego. And wile dorse, and ivy serpentine, With its dark buds and leaves, wandering astray; And flowers azure, black and streaked with gold, Fairer than any wakened eyes behold. History tells us that royals have long used flowers and inspired their subjects to do the same.  During her long reign in England -- 1837 to 1901 -- Queen Victoria believed that a flower in the lapel or on the jacket was part of the attire of a properly dressed person. In the Victorian era, flower shops came into favor and, particularly around Covent Garden, where Eliza Doolittle first meets Henry Higgins, flower girls vied for customers as the wealthy people came and went to dinner and the theater. An ornamental willow leafs out at High Chaparral in Big Sky Country. ON A COLD  day in February in 1989, my late sister Robbie and I attended the Bolshoi Ballet in the Soviet Union, shortly before its fall and the dismantling of the wall. We were impressed that people with little money found enough coins to buy flowers in the lobby and throw them on stage as the dancers took their curtain call. Only months before her death, Robbie, spent two days in northern California creating dozens of bouquets for our niece's wedding. At Robbie's memorial, we made certain that flowers were part of our eulogy to her. The Maritime Museum includes many vessels in San Diego Bay. COMING WEDNESDAY : A celebration of the wonders of water. Lakes, rivers, streams and the majestic Pacific Ocean find a place in our blog as we honor the beauty of water and its hypnotic effect on our psyche. As summer unfolds, we explore travel, photography and a very special child. Remember to explore, learn and live. And check out our posts on Wednesdays and Saturdays at: whereiscookie.com

Grecian and Roman sculpture adorn the entryway and paths to San Simeon's Hearst Castle on the central California coast. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Hearst's youthful travels inspired his lavish creation of San Simeon. WHEN WILLIAM  Randolph Hearst was a little boy his mother took him on a grand tour of Europe.  There the tyke admired ancient statues, castles and frescoes, learned about the art of the Renaissance and dreamed of having his own artful place when he grew up. That fantasy became reality, a modern day Shangri-la, when the newspaper baron created San Simeon. Visitors pause outside the main mansion, by the outdoor pool. Hearst and his trusted architect, Julia Morgan, on site in 1926. We joined tourists from all over the world to admire the excesses of a true eccentric. Hearst traveled to Europe many times collecting the art that would become his legacy and placing it in his carefully designed mansion. His enterprising female architect Julia Morgan was with him every step of the way. INVITATIONS to Hearst Castle were highly coveted during its heyday in the 1920s and 1930s. One of the many details is the ornate front door through which movie stars and others entered. Hollywood royalty and the politically elite visited, usually flying into the estate's airfield or taking a private Hearst-owned train car from Los Angeles. Charlie Chaplin, Cary Grant, the Marx Brothers, Charles Lindbergh, Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo, Jimmy Stewart and presidents Calvin Coolidge and FDR visited.  Winston Churchill spent time with Hearst and his wife in New York City, then with Hearst and his mistress  at San Simeon, remarking that he found both Hearst partners delightful. The beautiful,.peaceful Neptune Pool, a favorite hiding place of Patty Hearst. WHILE GUESTS were expected to attend the formal dinners each evening, they were left to their own devices during the day while Hearst directed his business affairs. Since "the Ranch" had many facilities, guests could play tennis, hike, ask the kitchen to make a picnic, or simply wander about, read, enjoy the exotic wildlife and rejuvenate. ALCOHOL  was not forbidden, but was served in moderation and could not be brought in. Those who abused protocol were not invited back! The theater was available for viewings and Hearst often screened films after dinner, choosing from productions of his own film studio, Cosmopolitan Productions. The newspaper baron's many trips to Europe inspired the  compound known by millions as San Simeon.   HEARST CASTLE  was the inspiration for "Xanadu,"  the mansion of the 1941 Orson Welles classic film, "Citizen Kane," a fictionalization of William Randolph Hearst's career. However, the castle was not used for the film, which was shot at Oheka Castle in New York. Commercial filming is rare at Hearst Castle and most requests are denied.  Only two projects have been allowed to film on the premises: director Stanley Kubrick's "Spartacus," which used the castle as Crassus' villa; and a Lady Gaga music video. PATTY HEARST,  granddaughter of the mogul, remembers playing in the Neptune Pool and hiding behind its gorgeous statues.  She conducted a Travel Channel tour a few years back, recalling the place with affection. Hearst maintained his own fire truck on the premises -- just in case. Hearst Castle is both a national and California historical landmark, designed by Hearst's friend, Ms. Morgan, during their long collaboration -- 1919 to 1947. Hearst was still enhancing his creation when illness forced him to abandon the project in the late 1940s and he did not return to his beloved San Simeon before his 1951 death. THE CALIFORNIA  Park Commission voted to include the castle in its State Park System in 1954, with a proposed admission charge of $1 and 50 cents for the bus ride up. Today's tourists pay $25 per tour (cottages and kitchens, grand rooms, upstairs suites, the main castle and an evening tour). Packages are available including hotels and a delightful holiday tour is featured with evening lights.  (We loved the Best Western Plus Cavalier where we had a splendid ocean view room. More about that in our coastal hotels piece.)   Just a few miles from the Hearst Castle is San Simeon's Best Western Cavalier. This is the beautiful ocean view from our delightful room. THE HEARST FAMILY  keeps a villa on the grounds for its private use, separated from the parts tourists see.  The mansion and its grand collection of art and antiques includes Hearst's flashy red fire truck.  The complex is near a small unincorporated town, San Simeon, and the village of Cambria. Millions of travelers visit each year. When Hearst approached American architect Morgan with ideas for a new project in April 1915, his idea was to fashion a comfortable bungalow. "I'd like to build something upon the hill at San Simeon. I get tired of going up there and camping in tents. I'm getting too old for that. I'd like something a little more comfortable," he said. A candy emporium and much more await you in Old Town Sacramento,  Hearst formally named the estate "La Cuesta Encantada" ("The Enchanted Hill"), but usually called it "the ranch." Hearst Castle and grounds are sometimes referred to as "San Simeon" as is the surrounding   area and its lovely hotels. Phone 1-800-695-2269 for tickets or information or go to www.hearstcastle.org .   COMING SOON:  California dreaming means fun hotels and rooms with views....... then we're dreaming of a snake-free summer under the Big Sky, where seldom is heard a discouraging word. Plus Old Town Sacramento with terrific Greek food, live music, a candy emporium with dozens of salt water taffy tastes. And more, at www.whereiscookie.com

TAKE A TRAIN RIDE, CROSS A GOLD BRIDGE, TASTE GREEK TREATS AND SPLENDID TAFFY Candy by the barrels awaits sampling in Sacramento's Candy Heaven, with hundreds of varieties and flavors. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Tourists board a horse drawn carriage to tour Sacramento's Old Town. THE BRIDGE  with its golden mustard arches gets your attention. Painted the color of Dorothy's yellow brick road, it evokes a sense of fun and exploration. And that's what awaits you in Sacramento's Old Town. The historic area of California's capital dates back to the gold rush days of 1848 when prospectors, entrepreneurs and gamblers headed for fortune if not fame. The last stop on the Pony Express, Sacramento was also the terminus of the transcontinental railroad and -- like most gold rush towns -- Sacramento boasted a handsome array of saloons and bordellos. Kristen and Zach clown in Sacramento's Old Town. The stately Capitol Building in Sacramento.  TODAY'S OLD Sacramento pays homage to the local color that keeps the city in the eye of tourists and locals alike. Music and film festivals are booked months in advance. Our fun begins with the 1935 bridge, painted a playful gold in 2002 to honor California's "Golden State" moniker. Just over 28 acres, Old Town houses 53 historic buildings ranging from hotels to candy shops, jewelry and clothing venues and specialty shops with gifts unique to Sacramento.  Old Town brings out one's sense of fun. WE STROLLED  and enjoyed for five hours with Keller's daughter and her boyfriend, Kristen and Zach. The four of us strolled Front Street, dipping in a leather store, a throw-back to a hippie head shop with beads, oils and incense.  Then we checked out the delightful Old Sacramento Excursion Train Ride, a 40-minute round trip along the levees of the Sacramento River. The Tower Bridge in Sacramento connects Yolo and Sacramento counties. Horse and carriage rides are also  offered and there were takers for these as we enjoyed the art and antique shops -- "Penny Farthing" caught our eye.  Toy and kite shops and a fascinating emporium, G Willikers, were doing booming business. WE SATISFIED  our sweet teeth at Candy Heaven on Front Street, where young hawkers pass out coupons for free samples of salt water taffy -- including my favorite licorice, Keller's chocolate and a mint and jalapeno the kids discovered.  It has an interesting zingy aftertaste! For lunch, we happened upon the small and wonderful place Happy Pita Cafe. Terrific lamb wraps, Greek style, complete with both tasty mint and yogurt sauce and spicy hot sauce. A view of Sacramento and the lovely delta in earlier days. Mountain men, and a variety of Spanish, English and Portuguese explorers visited the area, and the usual complement of Catholic priests seeking converts to the faith. Sacramento is, proudly, California's capital. The State Capitol also has a Museum.  The complex houses past, present and future elements of the state, serving both as a museum and a working seat of government. It's a popular day trip for students and tourists alike, where one can watch history in the making. SACRAMENTO'S  recorded history begins in the decade of 1839-1848 with an embarcadero, constructed at the confluence of the American and Sacramento Rivers.  But long before Europeans and Mexican-based adventurers such as Samuel Brannan and John Augustus Sutter Sr. and Jr., the Native American Maidu inhabited the fertile valley. Humpbacks, including a mother and calf, Delta and Dawn, swam into Sacramento's Delta. Whales have also ventured to Sacramento, swimming 90 nautical miles up the Sacramento River, attracting international attention. Finally, a nod to the aforementioned golden bridge. The handsome Tower Bridge is a vertical lift bridge across the Sacramento River, linking West Sacramento in Yolo County to the west, with the capital of California, Sacramento, in Sacramento County to the east. This fledgling entertained travelers Keller and Cookie, in their Nye yard. COMING SOON: California's coast offers some of the most delightful rooms you'll ever check into -- for spectacular views. Then off to Lisbon for a look at the lively arts and culture of this proud Portuguese city. And Montana's bird life is burgeoning with baby birdies.  We visit some fledlings and mature woodpeckers, eagles and more. Join us for travel off the beaten path, with a sense of fun, and an eye for nature and humor. Weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Point Arena wildlife park provides venue for saving endangered African species Giraffes enjoy lunch at the B Bryan Preserve, a haven for endangered African animals near Point Arena, California  Cookie feeds the giraffes, a thrill! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Frank greets a beloved giraffe. THOUSANDS  of miles from Africa, an animal-cherishing northern California couple is doing its best to preserve endangered critters continents away. In a climate and terrain similar to the creatures' native habitat, B Bryan Preserve   is a haven for animals that are likely on their literal last legs in Africa. It takes a tall barn to provide comfortable lodging for giraffes. The enterprise's founding couple is committed to the breeding and conservation of African hoof stock. Frank Mello and his wife, Judy, are lifelong wildlife enthusiasts from opposite corners of the United States. Frank, a Northern California native, met Judy in the corporate world in her native Mississippi. Frank knows every animal by name on the B Bryan Preserve. WHILE JUDY  was tending to the cottages the couple rents to boost income for the wildlife endeavor, we toured the place with Frank as our guide.  He began with this melancholy greeting:  "If you haven't been to Africa, I urge you to go.  Some of the animals you see today will not exist there for much longer." Zebras contribute their exotic look to northern California's Point Arena. JUDY HAS  traveled to several parts of Africa, experiencing the beauty with increasing concern. In my own trips, I've been made painfully aware of the diminishing numbers of giraffes, zebras, elephants, rhinos, lions, tigers and more.  Alarm at the continent's continuing devastation of wildlife is the couple's motivation.  Frank's love of the creatures of Africa stems from his deep affection for wildlife and love of beauty along the California coast. He conveys his concern about diminishing numbers on several disturbing charts which he shares before the tour, as guests gather in a large storage barn. FRANK  prepares eager tourists for what they will see -- a working farm where several species are loved and protected.  The couple raise, breed and study various kinds of antelope -- roan, sable and greater kudu antelope as well as Grevy’s and Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra and the Rothschild’s Giraffe. Visitors can get up close and personal B Bryan Preserve charts the decline of several endangered African species. THE TWO-HOUR  tour is available morning and dusk and  includes feeding time, with tourist participation.  It's a  fascinating and up-close look at the critters, as five or six wildlife lovers explore the 100-acre complex in the back of a land rover, exiting the van at various stops to view the critters close-up.  Frank provides gruff but enlightening commentary, taking  visitors through the history of the endeavor and engendering an understanding of the importance of A walk into the gardens of B Bryan Preserve leads to an enlightening time. wildlife conservation. Frank's northern California roots called in 2004 and the couple purchased a 100 acre ranch, moving 11 animals to Point Arena in verdant Mendocino County. A few are from San Diego's famous wildlife park. Since then, they've added endangered Grevy’s and Hartmann’s Mountain zebra, plus Rothschild’s Giraffe to the welcoming acres of their preserve. THE COUPLE  is devout in their preaching:  wildlife habitats around the world continue to decline. Many species are on the verge of extinction, forced from their native habitat by over population and poaching. Degradation of grazing land,  the swelling population of humans and hunger leading to poaching are the enemies of Visitors from around the world enjoy San Simeon, a site to behold on California's central coast. Coming soon at www.whereiscookie.com these beautiful creatures. "Add to that massive political and social unrest, the presence of AK 47s in the hands of rebels and the animal world is in crisis," Frank said. COMING SOON: A newspaper tycoon with more money than he could possibly spend built a monument to himself, his publishing empire, and the world's great art.  William Randolph Hearst's San Simeon is our next stop.  We travel with a sense of adventure and an eye out for fun and the offbeat.  Join us Wednesdays and weekends, and remember to explore, learn and live, at www.whereiscookie.com

The cliffs leading up to the beautiful Beehive Canyon are enjoyed on the river with Absaroka River Adventures. ABSAROKA RIVER ADVENTURES BRINGS RENEWED COURAGE, SHARES MONTANA'S STILLWATER BEAUTY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS A family suits up at the Absarokee gathering with life preservers\.  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CALL ME a coward.  Water scared. Battle scarred. A sissy. Pansy. It's true. It WAS true. But now I'm a recovering rafter. Two rafting accidents decades ago prevented me from "getting back on the horse" -- or hosting myself back on the raft -- until last weekend. I've been twice "bucked outta the boat" -- once in Mystic Lake as it fed into the raging West Rosebud, and once on Oregon's Rogue River as we tried to transit five-star rapids. My "rafting chutzpah" was way low. Rafting the river with young, athletic rowers is a plus, and Absaroka River Adventures carefully selects each raft's occupants for balance. SUNDAY  however, Absaroka River Adventures restored my faith in the river raft adventure and in  my ability to transit a spirited river. THE CONTEMPLATIVE  Matt Holtz, manager and owner of the enterprise, assured me that I would be safe with him and the crew. We brought along our San Diego friend, Tom Giamonco, and we all felt comforted and protected from the beginning. Families may bring children at their discretion.- Thrills, no spills, plus scenery mark  the trip down the Stillwater. After a 25-mile ride from Absarokee, we put in near Nye, Montana, a small town on the Stillwater River. We would take the Stillwater half way back toward Absarokee, via the "Upper Half Day" tour.  It was thrilling, because normally the "upper" Stillwater doesn't have enough water to buoy the rafts. LOTS OF  snow melt and spring rains boded well for us. We paddled through Class III rapids and floated the beautiful Beehive Canyon, spending time observing blue heron and eagles, enjoying the moments of calm before Matt gave us orders, "okay, we need to paddle." As the afternoon ends, rafters amble up to land again. We were six, plus Matt, in our raft, and five other rafts took off in this gorgeous stretch of river, long the domain of kayakers and offering beauty at every turn. At the helm:  each raft has a leader, a skilled captain. We gathered in Absarokee, at the Absaroka River Adventures headquarters, and received our life jackets and encouragement.  Brent listened to my "raft accident stories" and encouraged me that this Splashing and a few wet moment in the raft are part of the thrill!  would be spirited, fun but safe. SEEING BLUE heron and red-winged blackbirds thrilled our rafters, but the three high school athletes were mostly thrilled by the splashes and "wet" parts. Cookie and Tom safe, out of the raft!  Kudos to Matt, who described each turn of the river, pointing out rock formations and historic landmarks.  Also delightful are his right-hand man, Tim Hedin, Julie our congenial  driver, Brent, who gave me (the "Cowardly Lion,") ample courage and the whole Absaroka River Adventures crew of a dozen plus. There's a tour to fit your itinerary and needs, from half-day to full-day, gentle and spirited, family reunions and more. We'll be back! We met rafters from Iowa, Alaska and New Jersey, all enjoying Montana's splendor.  Europeans and Asians also love the Absaroka River Adventures' offerings. sI'm riding the rapids again. Call 1 800-334-RAFT, 1 800-334-7238 to book a Boats, beauty and water life mark the California hotel tour. raft tour. If you're coming to this part of Montana, you won't go wrong. COMING SOON: Favorite hotels along the California coast and why we picked them. Plus Old Town Sacramento. Remember to explore, learn and live, as we travel with a sense of fun and adventure. Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Glass-half-full tale unfolds as California kids adjust to Big Sky travails, delights   The fields are green, the horses are happy in the Stillwater Valley, Montana, as our travelers return to problems and joys. Minutes after arriving at High Chaparral, the couple found one of bird houses full of baby birds, about to fledge.  The next morning, they were gone! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER    A WEEK OF WOES  we have had, with a transition from California to Montana, but a glass-half-full story we happily share. (We'll be writing about the unusual northern California wildlife preservation enterprise next Wednesday, and will give full forum to B Bryan Preserve and its worthy work.) Today, though, a silver lining story. The garage and work shop are a shambles, but order is returning. FLAT TIRES , a dead refrigerator, a jumbled garage, and a continuing disaster of winter damage, could derail lesser mortals. Cookie and Keller proudly report, they found the "good stuff" and are savoring. Montana has never looked greener. Tiny birdies -- wrens I think -- were chirping in their bird house as we moved our stuff in. We looked in while the mother was away, and took some photos. The next morning, they had fledged. THIS WAS AN  omen, we chose to believe. So despite the flat tires, dead refrigerator, perennials that didn't make it through a minus- Friends help the complicated re-entry -- here John and Laurie Beers, left, Cookie in center, and Lana and Charles Sangmeister, with Keller above left. 40 winter, we give thanks. The garage is our workshop and Keller has restored it masterfully.  We're using it to sort flood damaged goods and make repairs to a wrecked guest room while awaiting an insurance decision. We have wonderful friends, who mowed the lawn and send supportive thoughts. We're looking to the future, with high hopes, as Bing Crosby promised in his hit song long ago. COMING UP :  B Bryan Preserve in northern California's Mendocino County is doing remarkable work to preserve the endangered species of Africa.  Come with us to meet several kinds of zebras, along with giraffes and other exotic critters.  Remember to explore,learn and live.  We're about travel with adventure and a sense of fun. "Carpe diem" is our motto. Check us out Wednesdays and weekends, at: www.whereiscookie.com

PORTRAITS YIELD JEWELS, CHAR ACTERS  ON GOLDEN STATE ROAD TRIP  Penelope Margaret Ganner, our great niece, pauses in her Redwood City garden, south of San Francisco. Kristen Keller and her boyfriend Zack have fun. They   drove from South Lake Tahoe to meet us in Sacramento, STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER BEFORE WE launch our road-trip revels, we offer this photo essay.  It's a preview of our Music is a family tradition.  Cookie plays piano with James on bass and a young, talented vocalist friend. upcoming "California Top to Bottom" series, a pictorial look at some of the personalities, critters and characters we encountered on our 17-day foray from San Diego to Mendocino County -- from the state's sunny southern tip to the foggy north coast .  In between we enjoyed dozens of activities, dinners, communions with nature and surprises. A giraffe at B Bryan Preserve near Point Arena plays to his audience. We met Keller's daughter Kristen and boyfriend in Sacramento, my niece Amarylla and family near San Francisco and nephew James and partner at their farm north of Point Arena. We shopped, looked for healthy take-out and paid a dime each for paper bags. Kayakers enjoy a close-up view of nature at Moss Landing near Santa Cruz . WE STOPPED in 33 towns and overnighted in 11 venues -- from dog-friendly hotels on the beach and the varied city and country homes of family and friends. Our first stop was Los Angeles for time with our theater-loving pals, the Hulberts, and a fabulous production of "Porgy and Bess" at the Ahmanson Theater. Our revels ended with seafood lunch in Oceanside, at a favorite harbor eatery in the town of Keller's childhood.  We stayed with friends in Downey and near Santa Cruz, and we enjoyed favorite hotels in Bodega Bay, San Simeon and Santa Barbara. We even babysat one night, so our San Francisco niece and her husband could have a rare date night without kids. We enjoyed the little people -- but were reminded why childcare demands the energy mostly available to the young! LEAVING  Amarylla and Steve Ganner enjoyed an adult date night while our travelers babysat for James and Peny.  Sea lions bask in the sun at Moss Landing near Santa Cruz.   the Bay Area, we headed inland through farm land -- Pixley, Fresno -- away from the coast and toward Sacramento.  WE FEASTED on berries, cherries and avocados, homemade tortilla chips, fig bars and delicious dehydrated beets slow-baked in oil and sea salt.  Then back to the coast highway and up to Bodega Bay and north, past Sea Ranch, Gualala and north of Point Arena. We saw where Alfred Hitchcock filmed "The Birds" and watched many wonderful birds ourselves -- pecking at trees and lunch, and fortunately not humans. CALIFORNIA cleans up when it comes to interesting people -- from playful tots to colorful, opinionated adults, to a 93 year- old bugler who serenades folks on the beach near Santa Barbara.  All loved showing off their state -- whether sharing music, fresh produce and sunshine, or a ride on a kayak to a nature preserve. Not all the characters we encountered were human. We also met giraffes, otters, zebras and, of course, plenty of canines in this dog-friendly state. WE DRANK plenty of wine -- some homemade -- and feasted on lamb, cod, mahi mahi, duck, chicken, beef, shrimp, mussels Bugler Dezso Tenke plays his instrument daily, here for tourists at Ventura Harbor. His "Taps" won cheers! and crab. Always with plenty of gorgeous salads and vegetables. We played music, hiked, took photos, and watched sea lions bark for scraps and power. We forded rivers and took to the streams and a magnificent estuary where pelicans flew over our kayak. It was a magical 17 days.  Jim Hayes plays with his iPod at the Point Arena Cove.  We are back in San Diego, rested and revived with hundreds of photos and happy memories.  Did we really drive 1,541 miles?  Or were we "California dreaming"?   WE'LL BE writing about our visit to San Simeon, the Central Coast, and the Hearst Castle.  We'll take you to the glorious Purple Mountain Farm in northern California. Its flowers and food are known and loved by locals and tourists. Bailie serves with a smile at the popular Oceanside Broiler. We'll kayak with pelicans, seals and sea otters. We'll visit a wildlife preserve which is saving endangered animals before they become extinct in their native Africa. James Brian Ganner plays on his new instrument --  his recently delivered piano, which came from San Diego  to his Bay Area home so he can take lessons. WE'LL VISIT fruit stands and we'll share some fabulous meals and recipes -- home cooking as well as organic produce prepared in small, hip and healthy restaurants.   We'll talk about piano playing and music as a family tradition.  We'll show music is a conduit for socializing  and making new friends. It's going to take a few days to come down.  Meanwhile, come enjoy with us...... COMING SOON: One of our "California characters" is Cookie's nephew and Keller's friend, James W. Hayes, far left. With his partner Kelle Martin, Hayes makes fine wine and grows organic vegetables in northern California. We'll visit Purple Martin Farm for a look at the gorgeous flowers and vegetables that find their way to Point Arena's delightful restaurant, Uneda Eat. (L-R: James Hayes, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Jim Hayes, Kelle Martin, Bruce Keller.) We're about adventure with a sense of fun, weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

TRAVELER'S BALANCING ACT: HAVING A GOOD TIME MEANS ENJOYING THE MOMENT, BUT BEING READY TO BE SPONTANEOUS, SMELL THE ROSES  One of the continent's largest markets was a surprise find for our travelers in Sao Paulo, Brazil.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS The rugged Costa Brava provided a scenic vista with surprising views. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER MY GRANDFATHER  said, "When a plum falls from the sky, open your mouth." Thanks for the wisdom, gramps. I've enjoyed many a "plum" on your advice. The trick is not letting it hit you on the head! Keep your eyes on the prize but watch where you're going. TRAVELING WELL   is a balancing act, as is the art of living itself. Jerusalem's cavernous Church of the  Holy Sepulchre and nearby  Western Wall yielded a surprise.  I  plan our large trips two and three years ahead, spending hours, days even weeks checking resources, making reservations, researching hotels, cruises, museums.  I scour brochures and the internet for car rental options, theater choices, eateries, hikes and outings that make the locale unique.  I consider the appeal of cities and towns themselves, weighing their strengths against our preferences. A visit to Key Largo, Florida, prompted a cocktail party. ONCE ON  the road, though, I'm ready for adventure. I like to be happily surprised.  Good thing, because my partner-photographer Keller likes to explore. A spontaneous city tour led us to one of South America's largest markets in the center of Sao Paulo Brazil. We're still enjoying the cumin and cinnamon from a wonderful spice shop, and we feasted for two days on the fruit. An unplanned hike to a Costa Rica park introduced this lizard. WE'VE TAKEN  side roads that lead to dead ends, with cattle grazing in open range.  We've taken roads that lead to splendid vistas and riverbanks with migrating geese. Once, in remote eastern Spain, we stumbled upon a 12th Century village with only one other stroller and a golden lab snoozing in the sun. BEING FLEXIBLE  and curious on the road means having a more relaxing time.  A recent  day trip in Guatemala produced friends to lunch with.  I like to take off my watch on a sunny southern European morning. Shedding that reminder of time and the "real world" opens my mind and heart. Our Costa Brava adventure last November yielded not only the beautiful village, but a small town with a hardware store!  Keller found a transformer to step our electronics down from 220 volts to 110.  He was a kid in the candy shop, in the Spanish version of Ace Hardware. MEETING HELPFUL , friendly people is another bonus of flexible travel. We've never had a problem getting grounded or back on track and we've been lost countless times. Sailing off the beaten path yielded this lovely picnic setting near Seattle. Don't be hesitant about pulling over into the farmer's yard if you see him baling hay.  He'll point you to the little lake down the road with a stunning view of the sunset. He'll tell you where to find watercress or a waterfall up the trail. We happened upon a pretty park in Yuma, Arizona, which became our picnic stop on many trips between Phoenix and San Diego ANOTHER TIME  -- and this was a Keller solo -- we were touring Jerusalem with friends. Entering the Western Wall, honoring tradition, we went our separate ways -- men on the left side, women on the right, separated by a stone wall. Keller and Cookie took time to be silly on a Las Vegas trip. I watched from the female side as Keller followed a group of male mourners into a small room. "Oh, my," I thought.  "He'll miss the 4 p.m. tour departure for the Church of the Holy Seplulchre. He made the meeting time, though, wide eyed from his discovery.  He'd been invited to join the family as the kaddish was offered and took beautiful photos the rest of us missed. IN COSTA  Rica a few weeks ago, we took a hike on a trail recommended by new friends, and came upon a lizard who inflated his throat into an amazing red balloon! Smelling the "flowers" in travel is literal and figurative. In Guatemala, we met a couple from Sweden who invited us to sail with them and join them for lunch! In Florida, we toured with two couples who invited us to a spontaneous cocktail hour and a fascinating boat ride where we came upon mating turtles.  Stopping to "smell the roses," we enjoyed a rare bloom in the ocean's garden. IF YOU do get lost -- or lose your companion --  e calm.  Have a game plan before, as we do, that if you can't find one another you'll return to your last meeting place. Finally, don't be afraid to be silly and have fun. Inspired by the crazy mix of people in  Las Vegas a couple years ago, we changed our hair styles had  fun with a "punky" self portrait. James Hayes, with his dog Millie, grows organic vegetables and makes wine in a   northern California farm with a social conscience. Next up at whereiscookie.com   NEXT UP :  California's north coast yields many pleasures, including this special farm, where wine is made and organic produce is grown and sold to a restaurant with healthy and tasteful delights for the palate. We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventure.  Join us to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com