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RUINS IN A PICTURESQUE SETTING TAKE VISITORS CENTURIES BACK IN TIME  Ephesus and its wondrous buildings and ruins attract a  worldwide collection of history minded tourists. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The foundations of Ephesus are beautiful against the hillside. THERE'S SOMETHING  life altering about a stroll around Ephesus on the coast of Turkey. This ancient town, a wonder of the world, is thrilling because of its history and beauty. I've visited five times, and it never loses its magic and sense of wonder. From the moment you board an air-conditioned motorcoach and leave behind the colorful town of Kusadasi, you're bound for another world. Olive and citrus trees scent the air as you travel 45 minutes through the verdant countryside along a hilly drive.  The first building you see is a foundation.  Many believe it is the house of Virgin Mary, where the Blessed Virgin is reputed to have spent the last years of her life. A tour of Ephesus for Cookie includes a leisurely walk through ruins. Ephesus was likely settled by female warriors with artistic sensibility. SO EPHESUS  goes back much farther than the days of Christ.  It was inhabited from the end of the Bronze Age onwards, but the location was changed owing to floods and the whims of various rulers.   Located three kilometers southwest of present-day Selcuk in Izmir Province, Turkey, Greeks settled here in 10th Century BC. Many believe Ephesus was founded by a tribe of Amazons, ferocious female warriors. The double-ax of the mother goddess which adorned the palace at Knossos, Crete, is said to have originated in Ephesus.The city's early inhabitants were likely scholars and descendants of the Kingdom of Arzawa, or "city of the Mother Goddess."  We took a two-hour tour, as many millions have done, including several popes.  In fact, Ephesus was newly "discovered" after the travels of Pope Paul VI and Pope John Paul II in November of 2006. Pope Benedictus the 16th paid an official visit to the House of the Virgin Mary in 2007 stopping outside at the Fountain of Our Lady, which provides the faithful water from the holy foundation. WE TOOK  a two-hour walking tour of this magnificent, open-air archeological museum that is Ephesus, past the Magnesia Gate, entering the administrative section of ancient Ephesus, one of the most magnificent excavations in the world. See the Odeon, the Fountain of Trajan, the steam baths of Scholastika, the temple of Hadrian and the impressive library of Celsus. The library is adorned with columns and statues. The Grand Theater, where St. Paul preached, is one of the largest theaters in antiquity with a capacity of 24,000 seats. Centuries of feet have trod the cobblestone and pavement. Above, the acoustically perfect theater. Beautifully preserved buildings offer a glimpse into past times. Walk through the Arcadian Way, where Mark Anthony and Cleopatra once rode in procession.The acoustics of this theater are justifiably famous. You can hear someone speaking from the stage in the last row. As cats lazed and strutted, and posed on the sculptures, our guide told us about how St. Paul preached to the Ephesians from this stage and was ultimately arrested and tried for his beliefs. Cats are a constant presence in Ephesus. Here, one enjoys the sunshine.   AFTER OUR  Ephesus visit, we stopped at the Ephesus park, a themed re-creation of the city of Ephesus with shopping, restaurants and interactive experiences. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch, and were entertained by gladiators and their courtesans in a lively interactive show. (We could cheer on our favorite hero, in a charming, staged contest.) Cookie and Keller stop to smell the roses, in Provence. COMING SOON: Remember to stop and smell the roses, as the cliche goes.  It's important to plan for a trip, to get the reservations secured, to have hotels, plays and sidetrips lined up. But there's a place for spontaneity, too.  So be prepared to take the road less traveled.  We're all about travel tips with a sense of adventure and an eye out for fun. Visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Contented cows, here near Jacksonville, are a must for good cheese! Blue cheese and red wine -- say ahhh! WHAT A FRIEND WE HAVE IN CHEESES -- AND WHAT A NOBLE, INTERESTING, INTERNATIONAL HISTORY HAS CHEESE Oregon's Rogue Creamery cheese has won many awards, dating to 1933. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE CHEESE makers were hard at work, delivering some of the best blue cheese we've ever sampled to a small tasting table. We were at the famous Rogue Creamery in Central Point, Oregon.  This pastoral part of southern Oregon boasts blossoming fruit trees, great grazing land and contented cows who share their milk with cheese lovers worldwide. Pretty cheddar wheels await packaging and enjoyment!  The Creamery is known by everyone who's lived in Oregon for any amount of time. It has the feel of a family run place and Rogue Creamery proudly draws from the beauty and flavors of Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley, from which it takes its name. THE CREAMERY  is a smoothly run, successful business, creating gourmet, hand-crafted blue cheese, cheddar and TouVelle.  The company uses certified, sustainable whole milk to make prize-winning. internationally acclaimed blue cheese. We took a drive from nearby Ashland, Oregon, where we were seeing plays.  Our visit to the creamery got us thinking about cheese and how it was "invented." YOU'VE HEARD  the story of the shepherd boy who left his milk in a cave as he hurried to escape a winter storm. When he returned the following spring, the milk in his sheep-skin flask had turned to   creamy, delicious cheese! No one knows for sure just when or where cheese making originated. The practice is related to the history of the domestication of milk-producing animals (particularly sheep) which began a mere 10,000 years ago.  The stories of the origins of cheese are as varied and rich as an array of the softest bries. Early Egyptians enjoyed cheese. Cheese making calls for sterile conditions. ALTHOUGH SHROUDED  in mystery, cheese dates to the time of the Roman Empire. Cheese making became widespread throughout Europe and the Middle East as those traveling Romans spread cheese techniques across their vast empire. Cheese is mentioned in ancient Greek mythology, and on our recent trip to Egypt, we saw Egyptian tomb murals featuring cheese makers, dating back 4,000 years. IN CHINA , yellowish chunks of the world's oldest "cheese" were discovered on the bodies of mummies buried in the Taklamakan Desert. The 3,800-year old mummies were buried with jewelry and food, as was the custom. The funereal edibles included dairy treats to enjoy in the afterlife. Scientists have deduced that the Chinese cheese was easy to make, nutritious and easily digestible. A Chinese mummy was found with cheese bits, above, and the Romans brought cheese to their vast empire.  SOME OF OUR  favorite cheeses today, though, -- cheddar, parmesan and gouda -- are the new kids on the cheese block, appearing only in the last 500 years or so. What makes good cheese? Early American cheese makers looked for fine grazing land for their cattle, places with mild climates and green grass year-round.  Thus, Oregon is a natural and several of its famous valleys feature delicious cheeses -- Tillamook has been a favorite of my Oregon family  for years, along with Rogue Creamery's offerings! SINCE THE  early 1700s, New England Puritans have been farming and making cheese. Paintings show Puritan women as artisans of cheese making, as they had been in their homeland of East Anglia in England. From the early 19th Century, cheese making in America was connected to farming. On farms along the East Coast, it was the role of farm wives to make cheese and carry on the tradition. Mild winters and early springs mean good grazing for cows. Rogue Creamery, a star in Oregon. BEFORE THE industrialization of the cheese industry, milk on the farm had to be consumed quickly or processed in some way just to help preserve it. Early settlers used the cream which floats to the top, to make butter, leaving the rest of the milk. Credit goes to the women, who did much of that work -- hauling milk, churning butter and processing of the cheese -- pioneers enormously responsible for the evolution of cheese making in America. Cheese makers keep a meticulous shop at Rogue Creamery in Central Point. Locals and tourists love visiting. Curds and whey! IF THE  shepherd boy story is true -- that cheese was discovered accidentally from storing milk in containers made from the stomachs of animals -- the enzyme rennin comes into play. Rennin is found in stomach lining and causes milk to separate into little Miss Muffet's curds and whey. The curds at Rogue Creamery are delicious, and a popular seller! Cookie pauses to meditate outside Jerusalem's  Western Wall. Three major world religions inhabit the city. COMING UP:   Easter is just around the corner, and we're taking readers with us to Jerusalem.  In this magnificent, historic and cohesive city, three major world religions exist mostly peacefully. Tell us where you'd like us to take you next! Remember to explore, learn and live.  Please share our blog with friends: www.whereiscookie.com

The Barrister Bed and Breakfast in Helena offers a warm, history filled stay in a stately mansion near the cathedral. BROTHER AND SISTER ACT MAKE THE BARRISTER B&B A HAPPY, HISTORIC HIT Beverages are available in the dining room, which sports a portrait of young Queen Elizabeth II. The Barrister takes its name from its owner's law career. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Special touches and an artful eye mark each Barrister guest room. THE BARRISTER B&B  is the kind of place you'd send your best hip friend or your beloved and proper dowager aunt.  Both would have a delightful stay. The Barrister is the B&B world's equivalent of "black tie and blue jeans." Both are appropriate. You may arrive in formal attire or casual wear, dressed for a wedding or a hike. Either way, you'll feel instantly at home. The Captain's Quarters sports a nautical motif. The 1874 mansion, across from the imposing St. Helena Cathedral, was once the home of the Catholic priest. Owner and proprietor Nick Jacques, Helena native and fifth generation Montanan, remembers being called from the cathedral to the priest's digs across the street. There in the now B&B, young Jacques was chastised for a minor infraction occurred during his altar boy duties. FAST FORWARD  a few decades: Jacques now holds court before an international clientele of visitors to the Barrister B&B, where years ago he was reprimanded. Native San Diegan and lifelong sailor Keller enjoyed staying in the Captain's digs. A retired criminal defense attorney, Nick received his law credentials at University of Montana then returned to Helena to form his successful but taxing practice.  An auto accident changed the course of his career.  He was hit as he towed his boat from a nearby landing, inspiring the classic "wake-up call." He fully recovered from his injuries  but retired to follow his dream of operating a B&B.  That was nearly 20 years ago. Charmed by a B&B he visited on his favorite holiday island, Maui, Jacques said "I just had a deep feeling that I could do this and would be fairly good at it." THE WORD  "fairly" is  an understatement. From the moment one arrives at the Barrister -- named, of course, because "barrister" is Brit speak for attorney -- one feels relaxed, pampered and completely comfortable. Helena's Cathedral of St. Helena is across the street from the B&B. Tours of the cathedral or state capital make a pleasant diversion. Nick's sister, Liane Jacques, is the B&B's innkeeper.  She left Helena to receive her degree at Notre Dame and wears multiple hats as interior decorator, reservations and events manager, copy writer and designer, director of housekeeping, chef and "elf," flitting quietly from room to room and event to event, organizing and accenting everything with her artful touches. Cocktails are served nightly on the Barrister's relaxing porch. "I couldn't do this at this level without Liane," says her proud brother, whose travel passion takes him from the operation from time to time.  Despite retiring his "barrister" shingle and leaving the law profession, Nick still serves.  But rather than defending the downtrodden and hapless, he's entertaining appreciative travelers. Cookie was invited to play the parlor's beautiful grand piano. "Now, I have nothing but happy endings," Nick said, sharing his considerable knowledge of Helena with guests at the Barrister's antique dining table. "I connect with people each day." THE BARRISTER'S guest books -- one in each of the handsome rooms -- contain enthusiastic thank-yous from contented visitors, including newlyweds, bird watchers, outdoor lovers and politicians. Kudos and compliments come to the Barrister from many U.S. states and far corners of the world.  "Such an elegant place," "A most relaxing and hospitable time," "Gracious hospitality at every turn," "Beautiful environment" and "Fabulous breakfast" are praises sung by visitors. Each room is decorated by the brother and sister, who collaborated to honor a family member in photos and decor in each suite. The place is a treasure trove of history lovingly preserved and elegantly shared. An antique bar attracts conversation in the kitchen, framed by paintings. One room, The Morning Room, was part of the priest's suite during the years the place was owned by the Diocese.  It is now a cheerful and intimate welcome to Helena and the Victorian mansion.  Six fireplaces adorn the rooms and high ceilings and carved staircases enhance the allure.  Stained glass windows are also part of the charm, as is a grand piano which has been played by many of Helena's visiting VIP musicians.  I had the pleasure of playing for our small group -- visitors from several states -- in town for a wedding reception hosted at the Barrister. (Special catered events are a Barrister specialty!) An antique banister found in the attic now graces the Barrister's stairs.  GUESTS ENJOY  the home as if it were their own, making themselves comfortable in the parlor, formal dining room, den, library or an enclosed sun porch, where we enjoyed take-out Italian food one night.  We'd been treated to an olive tapenade and wine before dinner, with Liane joining us for cocktails and stories.  And because we visited on a Saturday, we had the pleasure of hearing the bells of St. Helena Cathedral ring out Sunday morning while we enjoyed a beautifully served breakfast-brunch of quiche, bacon, fresh fruit salad and homemade breads.   The Barrister's pretty rooms boast family heirlooms  -- beds, lamps, divans, chairs, a claw's foot bath, and ornate tables -- making them a big draw for both antique aficionados and history buffs.  Our "Captain's Quarters" was decked out in nautical lore, and the honeymooning couple across the hall from us had a boutique-inspired room with floral designs Helena's pretty parks, squares and historic buildings await near the Barrister. and baroque appointments. Liane's sharp eye is courtesy of her career as an interior designer with years of high-end projects in southern California, Oregon and elsewhere. When her brother suggested a partnership, she returned to Helena four years ago to become an integral component of the enterprise. PROXIMITY  to Helena's sights is a big plus for the historic building, and Helena's lively cultural scene is worth a few days' visit.  There's the Myrna Loy Arts Center, named after the famed actress born in Helena; the Archie Bray Foundation, known for stimulating ceramics; the Holter Museum of Art, with world class exhibits; and day trips to mining towns, rodeo towns, mineral baths,. trout fishing havens and beautiful drives -- just for sight-seeing. Canyon Ferry Lake is known nationally for its water sports, boating services and campgrounds. WE STOPPED  at Gates of the Mountains along the Missouri, and hope to return when the boat tour season is back. Freezeout Lake and birding beckon on a lovely fall day, next at whereiscookie. This time of year, as the snowbirds leave the northern Rockies, the Barrister hosts many Canadian visitors.  Helena is a perfect day's drive from Calgary. We hope to encore our perfect stay, to enjoy another musical session with our music buff hosts! 406 443-7330 for reservations. COMING UP:  We'd never been to Fairfield, Montana, but we'll be back.  Beautiful scenery, nice people, a couple fun restaurants, a little gambling and Freezeout Lake, for a bounty of birds to watch. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

WHERE SHOULD WE GO FOR A QUICK WEEKEND, OR WEEK LONG GET-AWAY? CONSIDER THIS LIVELY, ARTSY MONTANA TOWN Red Lodge, Montana, offers spectacular scenery and one of the world's most stunning drives. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYER PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN YOU want a couple days off, to laze and be reflective, Red Lodge, Montana, delivers. When you want a couple days off to party, frolic, be active and social, or take a wildlife-viewing hike, Red Lodge fills that bill, too. This lovely little mountain town can be sophisticated or laid back. You can dine elegantly with a nod to organic farming in a century-old brick hotel, or enjoy splendid pizza in a historic restaurant. You can shoot pool, play video poker, sing karaoke, dance and stay out late. You can find bargain rack shopping with 50 per cent discounts for name brand tops and jeans. ` Buy homemade sausage and delicious pastries at two shops next door to one another.  Both the meat market and bakery have legions of friends, both locals and tourists. Red Lodge, a mountain town, is nestled in a picturesque valley, and is a gateway to Yellowstone. I GREW  up in a small town not far from Red Lodge, and we drove from Columbus to Red Lodge often for sports events -- our teams were in the same conference -- to Girl Scout and Lions camps up the road, and to favorite family dining venues, Old Piney Dell always a family favorite through the generations. We loved the old Victorians which stand sentinel and show community pride. Red Lodge is famous for its beautifully restored Victorians. The fact that it is still there and thriving makes this reporter happy. Winters, took we took to the ski slopes, so it was a nostalgic afternoon when we drove recently up the six-mile road to the run of my youth.  While I mostly sat in the warming hut reading, siblings raced down the slopes and reveled in the excitement. RED LODGE  can deliver what you need -- excitement or calm. I needed the latter. If you're overwhelmed with activity and challenge, too many activities, projects and people, Red Lodge offers an opportunity to regroup and calm yourself.  The "Red Lodge Anxiety Main Street, Red Lodge, offers colorful marquees and neon. Cure" works for me every time. Wildlife is out the door, very near, if you base in Red Lodge. Here, mule  WE RECENTLY ventured to lovely Rock Creek Resort for its picturesque restaurant's fine dining at Old Piney Dell. We also visited Red Lodge Pizza Co., in a beautiful brick building.  During my childhood, Piney Dell was a favorite as was Natali's (now the Red Lodge Pizza building). I walked down memory lane gazing at vintage Natali's photos in the back room! Food is still great there, and at Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen and Wine Bar, Bogart's, Cafe Regis and Foster and Logan's Pub. The Pollard Hotel's elegant lodging, top restaurant and pub continue to be favorites.  Not far from downtown, you can see wildlife, including both mule deer and white tails -- for photographic adventurers. Our doggies, Nick and Nora, like Red Lodge  for its many dog friendly accommodations. For a fun time with kids, check out the Montana Candy Emporium, and Yellowstone Wildlife Sanctuary is a unique refuge for native animals found injured and rehabilitated in the center. RED LODGE  is a hot town in the winter when skiing begins, but it's a fine weekend get-away any time of year. Red Lodge Mountain is a quiet, no hype ski destination, growing in popularity with a national clientele. People love it for its skiing -- "pure and simple," the p.r. folks say. "No lift lines, no attitude, no big prices. Just great snow and great people." My favorite time is summer! But whichever your season, Red Lodge offersan authentic experience in Montana’s Rocky Mountains, summer or winter.  It's part of my history, and I love to share it.  Call   406 446-1718, the Red Lodge Chamber for more information. Or go to www.redlodge.com  or  www.redlodgemountain.com COMING NEXT:  Exciting news. Our long awaited novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," publishes next Wednesday on Amazon e-books. It's writers are Cookie, aka Christene Meyers, and William Jones. We'd appreciate brisk sales the first couple weeks, anticipating a paperback version: Here's a synopsis to get your literary juices flowing: War threatens to rearrange the world’s boundaries as an unlikely trio discovers love crossing all lines. A dashing bi-sexual American bank robber, beautiful French female sharpshooter and pioneering British film maker star in a tale of passion, vengeance and honor. “Lilian’s Last Dance,” begins in 1907, unfolding during a 10-year span, against a radical art movement, developing film industry and the Great War. Settings include New York, France, rural Montana, Peru and Hollywood. Real-life cameos include Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, D.W. Griffith, Conrad Hilton, Ty Cobb, Pablo Picasso, Charlie Chaplin, “Buffalo Bill” Cody, Gertrude Stein and more. Wednesday's blog will herald the official release. Remember to explore, learn and live and stay tuned for the book and a series of lively stories about the travels, passions and sidetracks in the making of the novel since its 1997 inception. At: www.whereiscookie.com   Please tell your friends!

The Fairfield Park Inn, Fairfield, Montana, offers pet-friendly digs near the lovely bird watching area of Freezeout Lake. PET FRIENDLY MONTANA INN NEAR BIRD WATCHING HAVEN OFFERS COMFORT, TOUR GUIDE Nick and Nora make themselves comfy at Fairfield Park Inn. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE WERE  on the trail of a reasonably priced get-away that would bring us close to Glacier National Park without taxing ourselves from Billings. My brother wanted to visit Freeze Out Lake -- I'd never heard of it. He enticed me with a little Blackfoot: "Sai yai ksi q tsi tau toh pi" or basically, "come see the geese." We weren't at the right season to spot the huge flocks that fly through in March -- upwards of 100,000. But we saw beautiful bird life, including many pelicans and blue heron. Huge grain silos are an imposing sight on Fairfield's main street. I found a delightful place in the Fairfield Park Inn, and what a grand time we had on my first Fairfield foray.  We needed a dog-friendly place for Yorkies Nick and Nora, and had the bonus of a savvy guide who knows and loves Fairfield. We were greeted at the inn by a boisterous Jack Russell terrier (is there any other kind of Jack Russell terrier?)  He wanted to play with Nick and Nora, and barked his greeting each time we left or returned. Our guys barked back -- and all was well. THEN ON TO  exploring Fairfield, Montana, called the "malting We observed this blue heron for a good half hour at Freezeout Lake.  barley capital of the world."  Budweiser built huge grain silos which cast an imposing shadow on the tidy main street. We were excited to be out of the car after nearly seven hours in the car, and the innkeepers John and Laurie welcomed us with a suite upstairs in the nicely restored old train depot that is now this charming bed and breakfast.  A beautiful memorial in Fairfield honors vets. The couple's affection for red, white and blue is carried out in the curtains, wall hangings, bed linens and mementos. John's storytelling prowess compliments Laurie's decorating skills.  He has spent decades in this rural farm community, situated on the picturesque eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountain Front between Choteau and Great Falls.  He knows Teton County and Freezeout Lake and told fine stories, including one of tundra swans who gather with the snow geese -- and can be aggressive if onlookers come close. John gives travel tips to inn guest, Rick Cosgriffe. DJ's Pizza was a happy restaurant find with excellent food. He steered us to a wonderful restaurant, DJ's Pizza (which served fabulous steaks and burgers, too), and he explained that Fairfield is smack in the middle of the "Golden Triangle" because of the beautiful sheen of the grain. Not only is Fairfield proud of its malting enterprise, but its farming reputation is time honored. Fairfield farms date back to 1862 when homesteading first opened, and became more abundant in 1909 when Congress enticed settlers with 320 acres of free land.  The Bureau of The "Antique Room" is filled with treasures from the family. Reclamation's Sun River Canyon and water for irrigation attracted more settlers with the welcome delivery of water.  Gibson was the main storage dam, constructed in the Depression days of 1926-29. Today's Fairfield receives water for 83,000 acres surrounding the community. Besides beautiful bird life -- close-up pelican and blue heron sightings --  we played a bit in the casinos.  There are three, and we contributed to Fairfield's economy. Bear and bird spotters come to Fairfield and nearby Glacier to photograph wildlife.  Visitors are from all over the U.S., and many foreign countries.   BESIDES  the bounty of birders who sell out the Fairfield Park Inn in March, Feezeout Lake attracts winter ice boaters, summer boaters and fall hunters. Soon, visitors to nearby Sun River Canyon will be watching bighorn sheep battle for leadership of one of the largest herds in the country.  For six or seven months of the year, Fairfield shows off its nine hole golf course with dramatic vistas of the Rocky Mountain Front. The inn is as much a draw as the scenery. Together, they're a pair to draw to! You'll enjoy large comfy rooms on two floors of a one-time train depot. We booked a two-bedroom suite, filled with family heirlooms, indulging in furnished breakfast before a short trip to Glacier! Actors Bruce Turk and Michael Santo are perfectly cast and artfully directed in "Freud's Last Session," about a meeting between Freud (Santo) and writer C.S. Lewis (Turk). COMING SOON:   Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier is a wonderful base for exploring Glacier and photographing bears in the wild. And at North Coast Repertory Theatre in Solana Beach, Calif., a brilliant play makes its San Diego debut. The storyline features Sigmund Freud and C.S. Lewis engaging in a lively and emotional intellectual debate during the famed psychiatrist's final days. Bravos and a critique coming for "Freud's Last Session," up through Nov. 9.  For a fresh look at travel and the arts, visit us Wednesdays and weekends at:  www.whereiscookie.com

BEARS ON THE WALLS, BEARS IN THE WOODS AT CHARMING LITTLE INN Arriving at the end of a snow storm, our travelers found Dancing Bears Inn a welcoming respite -- with tasty treats!  East Glacier's Dancing Bears Inn is a lovely base for Keller's exploration of nearby wonders in Glacier National Park    If you go down to the woods today You're sure of a big surprise. If you go down to the woods today You'd better go in disguise! For every bear that ever there was Will gather there for certain, because Today's the day the Teddy Bears  have their picnic. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER All roads point to Dancing Bears Inn. TODAY'S THE DAY  the teddy bears have their picnic! Remember the old song we sang as children? Written in a menacing minor key, it sounds a bit like Charles Gounod's "Alfred Hitchcock" theme. But there are no minor keys at Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier, where every day is a picnic! It's all sunny side up! An all-day buffet of organic treats invites hotel guests to snack between hikes, enjoy a hot or cold beverage -- including beer one of the evenings we visited -- and plan the day's activities thanks to knowledgeable hotel managers. Kim Stevens and her co-manager C.J. are proprietors of this delightful find! They love what they do and it shows. We joined the two of them, and their hotel bears (photos, drawings and even a bear shower curtain)  -- along with a gorgeous grizzly bear who prowled nearby -- for a two-day picnic of our own. Our headquarters, the Dancing Bears Inn in East Glacier, is a convenient Glacier base in the Two Medicine Valley of this northern Montana park. Kim Stevens, at the computer, and Cookie, plan the day's activities. Tasty organic snacks are available for guests all day long at the inn. THE MOTE L is small and welcoming, with only 15 rooms. And, a must for us, several of the rooms are pet friendly. The two managers are hands on, greeting guests at check-in, and making certain they feel welcome. They even put a make-shift walkway down to help us navigate melting snow. And Stevens escorted us to our rooms to make certain the heat was on and we had all we needed to be comfortable. The rooms are quiet and nicely decorated. Nothing fancy, but clean, inviting digs (bear motif of course) and spacious. It's not unusual to have a continental breakfast included in the room price, but that's usually rudimentary: toast, cereal, juice, maybe an orange or banana. Just a hop, skip and stroll from Dancing Bears, Serrano's Mexican Restaurant in East Glacier serves tasty Southwest and Mexican fare and is always packed. Dancing Bear's all day "breakfast" is a real exception, and truly the star in the crown of a Dancing Bears stay. THE BEAR'S BREAKFAST  is more like a European morning buffet than an American motel offering.  Bagels, granola, yogurt, juices, and a treats such as breakfast burritos and English muffin sandwiches -- the Bear's own version of MacDonald's classic. Their "Bear MacMuffin" and more make for real value. "We like to have goodies for people all day, when they come back from a day of hiking or a long drive," Stevens said. "It's a nice touch because the owner really cares that people have a memorable, enjoyable time and get what they want for snacks." That, of course, is smart marketing and encourages return business. WE ALSO  found  a couple fun dinner eateries, suggestions of the inn managers.  Our favorite was Serrano's, a lively Mexican place with terrific, zesty Southwest cuisine. Specialties include a tasty The picturesque Two Medicine area is just minutes from Dancing Bears Inn. red snapper and a flavorful strip steak. Appetizers, margaritas and a delicious flan-like dessert were happily and efficiently served.  EXPLORING  Glacier again, we learned that Lewis and Clark were very near where we were based, on the east side of the Rockies.  They were so close to Marias Pass they could have reached it in an hour or so.  But they couldn't see it for the clouds.  Surely, had they found it, their journey over the mountains would have been easier! We made no attempt to see all of Glacier, a park we grew up with as native Montanans. Our advice to Glacier travelers with only a couple days is to base at one of the hubs -- West Glacier, St. Mary, Many Glacier, or farther north, across the Canadian border, in Waterton Park. CONCENTRATING  on a smaller area -- no farther than 75 to 100 miles from your hotel -- gives time to really take in your area.  Besides the grizzly, we noticed beautifully changing autumn colors, beargrass, flowers and snow on the same mountains which sheltered native people for millennia. Bruce Turk and Michael Santo square off in "Freud's Last  Session," an ambitious play in its San Diego debut to Nov. 9. COMING SOON : Two kinds of drama -- the traditional meaning -- inside a theater -- and drama in the wilds of nature. We can barely wait to share our grizzly sighting.  We watched with other charmed tourists, for more than 90 minutes as a grizzly ate, drank and made merry before our eyes, about 40 yards away! But before bears, we're excited about a San Diego premier, "Freud's Last Session," at North Coast Rep. Imagine a meeting between these two: an avowed atheist -- Sigmund Freud -- and a onetime atheist, now a believer -- writer C. S. Lewis. Their conversation about life, religion and the fates is thrilling, and the two actors playing the great thinkers are terrific. We try for a fresh take on art, travel, theater, music and life. Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

IF YOU HAVE ONLY A BRIEF TIME, MAKE EVERY ROMAN MINUTE COUNT BY HIRING A TOUR GUIDE Rome's Trevi Fountain has been drained and fenced off, and a $3 million bridge project financed by Fendi, the big name fashion house, is underway with a renovation project to allow visitors to view the famed fountain from above! The Colosseum is one of Rome's most popular attractions. A private guide will give you time to enjoy it, ask questions and never be rushed. Motorcycles are a part of Rome culture. A tour guide explains the fascination. Cookie and expert guide Lucilla Favino pause near the Commons of Old Rome. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE ALL KNOW  the cliche, "Rome wasn't built in a day." But if you only have a day or two in one of the great cities of the world, you can pack a lot of wallop into your time, with planning and a private guide. We recommend hiring a guide, and you won't find any better than Lucilla Favino, a native Roman who loves her city and knows its history as well as any university professor. That's because she has passed the rigorous five-hour guide test and has a doctorate in archeology. "Old Rome" features ruins where Plato and others strolled, conversed and lectured. Monuments, plazas, history at every turn is yours when you visit Rome. We've spent times on three different trips with Lucilla, including one six-hour personalized tour which brought us into parts of Rome we'd not seen on a half-dozen previous visits. It also included the standard "big attractions" -- which never bore. LUCILLA'S BRILLIANCE  in her chosen profession -- she is a true expert in Roman history -- is steeped in versatility and depth. Besides her vast knowledge and engaging storytelling ability, she has a gift for time management.  We never felt rushed under her touring of the Eternal City, but we saw more in each of our three days with her than we'd seen in days of touring by ourselves. A good guide knows the history of every piazza in Rome. Instead of being crammed in a long bus, or walking with a dangling earphone with the guide a block ahead, you'll stroll arm-in-arm with her, walking where Caesar and Aristotle strolled, staring up at the ceiling Michaelangelo painted on his back high atop a ladder, listening to your guide's commentary. Picture the shouts of the crowd as lions roared at the doomed prisoners in the Colosseum. Lucilla had stories!  Remember to visit the famed Trevi Fountain, with the coin toss so you are sure to return. (Even though it's under restoration, you can still toss a lucky coin in a revised pool while Lucilla explains the restoration and the innovative skybridge coming, above it.) Keller captured this classic Roman look on our recent trip to a favorite city. NO CITY  on earth can compare to Rome. And no guide can compare to Lucilla.  Her love of history is enhanced by her devotion to Rome's art.  She points out architectural details one might miss, and she stops at the shops to indulge her penchant for chocolate, which we share! Romans love their sweets -- here a shop window of wonders! With our private guide, Lucilla, we tried some samples. With her pleasant and engaging commentary, you'll walk the same streets the ancients walked and view some streets of ancient Rome several layers beneath today's streets. Our visit to "Old Rome" truly captured the feeling of life then!  With Lucilla, we also visited and toured the Vatican, the smallest independent nation on earth, then we walked the stylish shopping streets to see how modern Romans live alongside all the historic splendor. AS YOU STROLL the one-time epicenter of the Roman Empire, gazing over the largest Roman amphitheater, you might decide to book Lucilla to see the Pope give his weekly address in St. Peter’s Square.  She'll set it up! She'll also help you test your resolve at the Mouth of Truth, learn to fight like a gladiator, and sample a pizza to see what sets Roman pizza apart from the other pizza of the world. Few cities entertain as Rome does but a good guide helps keep Rome from being overwhelming.  Lucilla knows how to navigate its fast-paced, varied options. She gives time to ponder - and takes breaks to sample the city’s famous wine, coffee and gelato.  "I love my city," she says.  "I love to answer the questions, to stop when someone shows particular interest in a place.  If someone is tired, I can sense it.  Then we go sit and have a cappuccino and I answer a question or tell a story."   WE RECOMMEND Lucilla, for a guide with intelligence, a sense of fun and a love of her native city.  Her contact information is: Lucilla Paola Favino,  (+39)338.9221760  (Rome phone), or lucilla.euroacademy@gmail.com Red Lodge, Montana, is a picturesque mountain town, with beauty in all four seasons. COMING UP:  From Rome to Red Lodge!  What makes this picturesque little mountain town in www.whereiscookie.com Montana so darned much fun?  Whether you're looking forward to ski season or planning a trip to Yellowstone Park next summer, have a look at Red Lodge with its lively eateries, fine lodging, shops, wildlife and more.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends for a fresh look at arts, travel and life: www.whereiscookie.com

Falling into disrepair, there is still beauty in the abandoned Castle buildings. Buildings were beautifully built, apparently intended to be home for many years, in Castle, Montana. A visit to Castle, Montana, opens doors to Montana's colorful past. 'CASTLE' ONCE FIT FOR A KING NOW FADES INTO HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   Castle is no ordinary ghost town.  It was built to last. MY BROTHER , Rick, likes to take the road less traveled. His last trek took us to the abandoned town of Castle in north-central Montana. Once, years ago, dozens of families lived in this quiet valley not far from White Sulphur Springs. Now, only ghosts inhabit the hills, dales and empty homes of Castle, Montana. Cookie pauses with Nora, on the trail to find Castle, in very rural Montana. My intrepid brother took us on a detour on our way back from Glacier Park and we tromped around the now deserted town, located on private farm land. A couple of trucks slowed down on the dirt and gravel road to eye us.  But they passed on by with a friendly wave, after seeing we were only taking photos.  We hoped we were not being arrested for trespassing! Signs lead travelers here, even though it is on private property. Here's a bit of history about this beautiful area: CASTLE BECAME  a map dot in 1884, when the North Carolina Mine opened, according to a U.S. Forest Service interpretive sign. Calamity Jane, it is said, lived briefly in Castle. Miners were drawn by the lure of silver ore and by 1891, Castle hosted 991 mining claims and was an incorporated town with several thousand inhabitants. Its most colorful inhabitant was Calamity Jane, who lived there briefly when she entertained the idea of opening a restaurant and becoming a lady! That endeavor didn't pan out. Today, ghost town lovers may drive down the road to the deserted town, being careful to respect that it is indeed now private land. IT'S TOUCHING to wander about, examining the vestiges of a time when families moved in, building multi-story homes with tall bay windows, adding decorative shingles and other embellishments.  Some of the homes sport crumbling but once spacious porches on the town's grassy hill, nestled along a cool stream, snuggling up against the timber line. This beautiful archway could have been a private garden, or sanctuary.  Businesses popped up along Main Street - now a Meagher County road - including Baker's General Store and Post Office, Kidd's Furniture Store, Minnie's Sporting House and Berg's Meat Market.  There's an interesting archway just inside the town.  One wonders if that were someone's special garden, or a place to meditate and sing Sunday hymns surrounded by gorgeous fir trees. I can picture an organ inside and glorious acoustics for chorale music! Will this building be here much longer? ABOUT A  dozen buildings remain in Castle, their ghostly appearances contrasted by    beautiful wildflowers. Wildlife scamper around the ruins, and we saw deer, elk and squirrels. I even spied a prairie dog suning lazily on a disintegrating rooftop. Although the buildings appear ready to fall if someone sneezes in their direction, the quality of the construction indicates people planned on staying here long-term. Rome's Colosseum is like no other place on Earth -- vast, artful, full of history. Alas, when the boom fizzled, this Castle -- once a golden coach -- became a pumpkin again! COMING UP:  Ah, Rome.  City of romance, handsome men and women, terrific food, cheap wine and history, history, history at every turn. If you have only a couple of days, consider hiring a private guide.  We've done it the last few trips and we recommend it.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends for a fresh look at travel, the arts and life. www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie with Nick and Nora on a walk in Davis, Calif., during which time she embraced her genetic dog disorder. ABIDING LOVE OF CANINES IS A LONG ESTABLISHED FAMILY TRAIT "Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole." -- writer, photographer Roger Caras.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie's mother, Ellen Nystul and her beloved Scottie, Jinx, in 1941 in Columbus, Montana. Jinx ate shoes, books and the legs off a piano -- but Ellen loved him dearly.   Cookie and her sister Robbie with Nick, near Carmel. The wind was blowing, and Nick's ears were back, too.   "A dog is the only thing on earth that loves you more than he loves himself." -- Josh Billings, aka Henry Wheeler Shaw, humorist. Nora, left, and Nick, enjoy the Fess Parker Doubletree from their oceanside perch in dog friendly Santa Barbara, Calif. Cookie's mother, Ellen, loved labs Drexler, left, and Pfeiffer. I INHERITED MANY traits from my mother:  musical talent, a love of travel, a fondness for tomatoes, snapdragons and the color purple, a painful lower back, less than perfect vision, and a lifelong love of dogs.  My mother had dogs all her life, as did her mother and her mother's mother. Apparently, I come by this affliction honestly. ALL MY ANCESTORS  were great storytellers and had many stories about their beloved companions. Cookie's great-grandparents had many dogs, too, including this miniature cocker  spaniel.  Some think her name was Marlene. Others think Trixie. My mother's most notorious dog was her adored Scottish terrier, Jinx. Like all terriers, he was spirited, feisty, loyal,smart and quick. He was also, apparently, aptly named. Sigmund Freud said, "Dogs love their friends and bite their enemies, unlike people who are incapable of pure love and always mix love and hate."  Nick and Nora enjoy the Pollard Hotel in Red Lodge, Montana, one of more than 200 pet friendly hotels in which they've stayed. JINX HAD  a long record of loving.  But he knew hate, too.  He hated when his favorite slippers were removed from the bedroom and he disliked the removal of the socks after laundry time -- before he could sample them. He was the family's most pronounced failure in our inability to train dogs.  Despite numerous attempts to reform Jinx, he ate shoes, books, boxes of candy, thawing meat and the legs off a baby grand piano. Nick's prancing attracts admirers and dog lovers wherever the writers go. He learned nothing from hundreds of dollars of obedience lessons.  He was also beloved until his final day -- my mother swore that he could sing -- and Jinx probably died with furniture slivers and shoe leather in his mouth.   MY MOTHER'S  grandmother loved dogs, too, and had many terriers and cocker spaniels. I, in turn, would come to love my first cocker, Beau Peep, a gift from my daddy's cousin Sally Jane, who found him in a camp ground in western Montana and brought him to us when I was five years old. Cookie, Keller and the Yorkies - bonded forever on the California coast. BEAU FOLLOWED me to grade school each day and I'll never forget the day I walked home -- frightened because Beau had not been there to meet me. I saw the blood on the road in the snow as I approached the house.  Beau was done in by a milk truck, skidding to miss him on icy streets. My thoughtful parents and grand folks hastily took him away to the ranch for burial before I could see his mangled body.  AFTER SHE  married, my mother began a campaign of dog salvation and child rearing. She and dad rescued ranch dogs who tested the patience of their owners, failing to herd properly and making friends with the bears who broke into the hen house.  BONGO DRUMS  was named for the sound his tail made when he thumped it on the hardwood floors. Goldie, not very originally named, was a beautiful golden retriever who swam the Stillwater and Yellowstone rivers until she grew too fat from grandma's hamburger.   "Dogs are better than humans because they know but do not tell." -- poet Emily Dickinson. BLONDIE was a circus dog, bought by my daddy for $10 after the gypsy circus ended and all the animals went to homes in our small Montana town. I never knew who took the Elephant, Rosie. Blondie was as big as we could manage. She jumped through hoops and was a delightful companion for years.  Her final resting place was a small coffin lovingly crafted by my carpenter grandfather Gustav. So many dogs, so little time. I've loved them all well and now understand that -- like all things "in the genes" -- this delightful disorder cannot be helped. Only enjoyed. The Barrister Bed and Breakfast, aptly named because its owner is a well respected retired Helena attorney, beckons guests. COMING SOON : We're sorting more than 2,000 Glacier Park trip photos, chronicling our odyssey from the Stillwater Valley through charming Fairfield, Montana, into Glacier and back through Helena, where we found a bed and breakfast fit for a king -- or a barrister! Follow us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com for travel insights and entertaining banter about food, wine, fun, romance and being alive and on the road!    And remember -- "Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea." Author Robert A. Heinlein said it best.

The Wapiti Valley offers a beautiful drive in splendid fall weather, with changing colors, elk on the move and more. FALL ROAD TRIP IS JUST THE TICKET FOR A QUICK GET-AWAY-- WITH YORKIES, SCENERY AND ELK Elk -- here a bull with his harem -- live in large numbers in Wapiti, a Cree Indian word which means "elk" -- makes sense, doesn't it?   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Nick and Nora enjoyed the Wapiti sun, and a dog-friendly stay. Yellowstone Valley Inn and RV Park offers rustic, comfortable  cabins, some dog friendly, and a splendid buffet breakfast. THE DRIVE  through the Wapiti Valley yields plenty of wildlife, including the elk which gave this gorgeous corner of the Rockies its name. Wapiti is Cree for elk! Trees are turning in the Wapiti Valley creating a fall colors bonanza. What could be romantic than driving through the autumn scenery with your honey, your Yorkies and gorgeous views? Ah, it's contentment with a capital "C." FOR YEARS,  I've loved this corner of Wyoming. I've seen more bears near the East Entrance of Yellowstone National Park than I've seen anywhere else in the park. We've also seen abundant elk, spectacular rock ridges, beautiful turn-outs along the Shoshone River, and an eccentric house atop a hill. You've probably wondered about the house; you can't miss it. It's an eye catching jumble of styles and daring techniques -- and this time through, I decided to do a bit of homework. The Smith Mansion is a sight to behold from the nearby road through Wapiti.  THE SMITH MANSION,  sometimes known as "the crazy house," stands high in the beautiful Wapiti Valley, closer to the park than to Cody. It is a piece of the Wapiti Valley's colorful history with as many stories about it as there are old timers to tell them.  Stop in any of the lodgings or restaurants along the drive and you'll get an interesting tale or two. According to a newspaper article, in which Sunny Larsen was interviewed,  The Wapiti Valley can be a base or an entry point for exploring nearby Yellowstone and Teton National Parks. the house was built by her father, talented architect and engineer, Francis Lee Smith.  Sadly, he died at age 48 from a fall in 2002, preferring to do his own work himself on the dangerous ledges in Wyoming's winds. THE PLACE  is for sure a piece of artwork left for the public, built by the late Architect/Engineer: Francis Lee Smith. Smith's daughter, who grew up in the home, began The Smith Mansion Preservation Project which is in full swing.  She wants her children and theirs to be able to enjoy the home, which is falling into disrepair and has been vandalized.  Elk antlers grace many lamps and chandeliers in the Wapiti Valley. IT'S JUST one of the picturesque sights you'll encounter in the Wapiti Valley (also called East Yellowstone Valley).  For my pleasure, the drive is an hour plus of the prettiest driving around. It lies between Cody, Wyoming, and the aforementioned east entrance of Yellowstone, and you'll be driving on highway US 14-16-20. This 50 mile section of road is designated the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway. It meanders through some of Wyoming's prettiest areas and includes the Buffalo Bill Dam, Buffalo Bill State Park and the Shoshone National Forest, our nation’s first just as we claim Yellowstone Park's "first" status. The Buffalo Bill Dam, named after the famous impresario, Bill Cody, is worth a stop on your way between Cody and Yellowstone Park.  THE DAM visitor center is worth an hour's stop, and do watch for wildlife and interesting rock formations. You'll find a range of guest and dude ranches, motels, campgrounds, restaurants, and gas stations. The mix includes deluxe lodgings, simple campgrounds and smaller, more rustic inns such as the charming Yellowstone Valley Inn, right off the highway.   We had a fine, simple supper in the bar's fancy screening room. The kindly proprietor ushered us in, introduced us to a spirited waitress and hooked us up with Public Television for the finale of  "The Roosevelts," which we'd hated to have missed. (Our room had only "Direct TV" -- no PBS.)  This healthy bison was spotted on a road not originally planned for travel during a recent Yellowstone Park trek. He was so close we heard him breathing! IF YOU'RE  a hiker, you'll be in hiking heaven and the Wapiti also offers horseback riding, fishing, photo ops galore, rafting and boating, mountain biking and hunting.  During breakfast, we visited with couples from Texas and California, both making Wapiti Valley their base for visiting Yellowstone which was fully booked last week! COMING SOON:  The road less traveled!  Don't let yourself get in a rut.  If you always go to Old Faithful, try another destination in Yellowstone.  You might find more buffalo than you can shake your camera at.  Be prepared for surprise and turn change into a plus. If you're adventuresome and flexible, you'll enjoy whatever unfolds, even if it wasn't in the original plan. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Jackson Hole Playhouse, at age 99, is a year younger than the town.  Here, in the rain, it's a nostalgic, pretty sight. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER An energetic cast performs several places in  the vintage theater -- here the lobby. THEY MAY  call the wind Mariah. But they call Jackson Hole Playhouse pure, unadulterated, old-fashioned, down-home western style fun. A lovely meal comes accompanied by spirited pre-show specialty numbers, then diners move from a warm and intimate restaurant area toward a historic theater for a top-notch performance. "Paint Your Wagon" is drawing enthusiastic audiences at Jackson's play house.  If you're looking for an original diversion between side trips through beautiful Grand Teton Park, head for Jackson and the Playhouse. It's just a short hop from Teton Village, if that's where you're staying, as we were. Keller adds his salute to the old West, at a lookout near the town. ONCE IN the town of Jackson, which turned 100 this year, you're find the theater only a block off main street. Look for the elk antler arches which surround the town square. Happily, for a small-town venue, the acting quality is highly professional.  The ensemble is from throughout the U.S., all with impressive performance records and experience in venues ranging from civic theater to cabaret and even off Broadway. Singers mingle with theater lovers during the energetic cameos, and requests are even taken! The pre-show meal is delightful. Bring your own wine, though, for a small corkage fee. Bruce Keller, above, gets a friendly smooch from Christine at Jackson Hole Playhouse where she's a star. Jackson's town square is bordered on all four corners by elk antler arches. Owner Vicki Garnick has devoted her energy and talent to the endeavor for 30 years.  She wears multiple hats, as owner, proprietor, producer and director.  She's also undertaken a massive renovation and fund drive for the theater's 100th birthday in 2015.  (Tax deductible donations are welcome to PO Box 4772, Jackson, Wyo., 83001). THE NON-PROFIT  entertainment on the boards made for a spirited  outing. Shows continue into autumn with "Phantom of the Playhouse" for Halloween, "Elf" for the holidays and "Weekend Comedy" for Valentine's Day and into March. Call 307 733-6994 or go to  www.jhplayhouse.com Jackson has been celebrating its first 100 years with fanfare -- barbecues, cowboy poetry, dancing and sealing of a time capsule. In the tiny town of Wilson, near Jackson, you can drive up for a bottle of wine. AND DON'T  overlook Teton Village, with its world famous Grand Teton Music Festival gearing up again for the summer of 2015.  The beautiful park near our base, The Inn at Jackson Hole, is a delightful place to stroll and the inn offers spacious rooms with gorgeous mountain and village views. The Village Cafe's satisfying breakfast is included in your room price. The village is much newer than Jackson, designed for the ski and tourist trades. but the music festival and top-rated skiing have brought international exposure. Do stroll through the lovely park, taking notice of the bear-proof trash cans and the colorful ski stickers on metal dumpsters. The ski tram runs during summer and autumn, too, offering spectacular valley views. And in nearby towns, you can even find a drive-through wine bar! An artfully landscaped park in central Teton Village connects hotels and eateries to the ski tram, which runs in summer too!   Wapiti Valley holds many delights and stellar landscape. COMING SOON:  Whoa Nellie, What about a night or two in the Wapiti Valley, near Cody?.This beautiful corner of the West is right outside of Cody, Wyo., enroute to Yellowstone Park. You'll see sublime roadside beauty, real cowboys herding cattle to winter pasture and fall foliage to make you weep with joy! Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com Around the corner: a salute to autumn in our national parks, dog loving as a genetic trait, and more fun-loving road trips..

Fall blankets the Teton Range with splendid colors.  It's not to late to plan a trip.  Teton Village and Jackson await! This tranquil morning reflection combines Teton mountains, water and stone. WILD COUNTRY BECKONS FOR SOLITUDE RENEWAL, COMMUNION WITH NATURE AND ROMANTIC TIME TO BOOT   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU  have not visited Grand Teton National Park in a while, or taken a day or two in Yellowstone or Glacier, get yourself there now if you're anywhere near!  Prime fall colors, an abundance of birds and wildlife,  and an absence of crowds make this my favorite "park time." Fall is our reporter's favorite time to visit Yellowstone, for scenery and solitude. You can't visit a national park too many times.  It's just not possible.  Each visit is nuanced, each drive or hike yields different sights. Stop off for an ice cream, and a view of the elk in downtown Mammoth. This healthy bison was on the "second choice" road -- a first-class encounter. Especially in this changing weather, roads close and open on a moment's notice.  Critters and birds are on the move as winter approaches. Examples, from our travels within the last few days in all three of Montana's and Wyoming's national parks -- Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Glacier. *A grizzly sow and her cubs were feasting on the lovely drive from Moose to Jackson, in the Tetons. Thus, the road was closed by the park service, necessitating a detour to Teton Village.  We saw a moose close-up on the revised route, and found a restaurant for a later supper! *In Yellowstone, the direct road from Norris to Old Faithful was closed, so we skipped our favorite geyser and drove to Tower instead. We practically had the road to ourselves and the colors were breathtaking. We saw more bison on that afternoon than we've seen in the last two trips to Yellowstone combined! Mammoth provided great ice cream and dozens of nearby elk. * In Glacier just two days ago, we had snow during our first few hours as we drove north from Fairfield. Undeterred, we  tossed our bags in the hotel room (the lovely Dancing Bears in East Glacier) and took off for Two Medicine Lake for fabulous snow photos.  Next morning, we spent an almost balmy day driving north, watching a grizzly bear at close range for over an hour. FLEXIBILITY  is the key when traveling anywhere, particularly in the parks where road repair and critter movement can close roads.)  But make that part of the fun and be prepared to embrace the change and enjoy the surprises. But aren't flexibility and cultivation of the art of rolling with the punches worthy credos for life itself? This kind of travel is relaxing, romantic and quality -- for conversation and closeness at the shared wonders! We visited the Columbus Cemetery to pay respects to ancestors. We also took the lovely back roads most of the way from Livingston to Columbus, stopping off at the cemetery there to visit our ancestors' graves on a gorgeous fall afternoon. AS I WRITE  this in early October, I hope you, dear readers, are not too far away to drive to one of our splendid national parks. If you are an armchair traveler, get up, hit the computer and plan to book a trip for next season. Our parks are our national treasures. Off-season rates are available and the crowds are gone! For lucky us, we're just minutes as the crow flies from our door in Beartooth country to Yellowstone's northern borders. But each beloved national park has its own distinctive beauty and allure. COMING SOON:   We're winding up our circuit tour of the three national parks closest to us.  Next up, Glacier National Park, the Fairfield Inn, Dancing Bears in East Glacier, and the elegant Barrister Bed and Breakfast in Helena. Plus tips on traveling happily with family. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at:   www.whereiscookie.com