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Road trip to the top of the world:  last week, up the Beartooth Pass on the famed Cooke City Highway. John Steinbeck had Charley, and Keller has Nick and Nora, below.       TRAVEL THE COUNTRY, SEE NEW TERRAIN, ENJOY SURPRISES, AS THE CAR IS YOUR COCOON! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER JOHN STEINBECK  described, when beginning a trip, that delightful sense of the unknown in his engaging "Travels With Charley." He said, “A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” Some of my favorite times happen when I'm on the road -- with Keller and "the pups," who are nearing nine years old.  The sense of adventure, the thrill of the new unfolding, are the bookends to the trip.  We know not where the journey is taking us, except perhaps literally, to "point A" or "point B." But we don't know the subtleties, the small pleasures, the unexpected delights that will fill the book between covers. Each day on the road is full of surprise! We're open, waiting and willing. And that's the thrill of the road trip. Steinbeck found that Charley was the conduit for all sorts of new friendships and adventures. Near Bodega Bay, we stumbled upon the church from Alfred Hitchcock's "The Birds," filmed here in the 1960s. Below, Cookie, Nick and Nora transit Beartooth Pass. THE YORKIES,  Nick and Nora, go with us everywhere on the road -- to the fruit stands, into the dog-friendly motel lobbies we book before we head out, even in Carmel, into the restaurants -- thanks to community icon Doris Day and her love of pets. In Europe, no Yorkies, but plenty of adventure in every village and roundabout. Consider these surprises from our recent summer travels with Nick and Nora. THE CHERRIES  we bought from a roadside stand.  The picnic by the brook with the blue heron in the tree overhead.  The little cafe with terrific clam chowder and chocolate malts made at an old-fashioned soda fountain.  Plus a tiny ice cream for each Yorkie. Meeting a theater lover from Ashland, Oregon, at a B&B in the mountains of Wyoming and talking plays with her over homemade berry pie. Virtues of a road trip are many: No telephones or e-mail to sort.  No cell reception on some of our routes (even better!).  If fires erupt in our family-friends world, someone else can douse them. We eat when we're hungry and we always find fun places to stay in and interesting people to write about. WHAT COULD  be better than packing up for a road trip, then heading out --  comfy in our car, a sunny morning unfolding, a thermos of strong coffee, a half-dozen maps, the Yorkies asleep in their traveling bed and the day spread out before us like an inviting magic carpet. Fresh California fruit, picked that morning, one of the pleasures of the road. WE MIGHT  be on the California coast, or on the back roads of Montana or Wyoming. We might be leaving Barcelona, to Costa Brava, north from Barcelona for a perch at a favorite seaside parador, Aiguablava. We might be traveling through the Loire Valley, or Tuscany, plotting our next gastronomic adventure surrounded by cypress trees and 13th Century buildings. Or we might be heading out of Sydney, Australia, pointed northeast toward Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef with a side trip deep into the rain forest. The best clam chowder of a three-week coastal trip -- right here A LEISURELY road trip is great for romance.  You may be in love with one another already, but to fall in love again on the road -- sharing the beauty, wonder and surprises -- is a bonus to the relationship. Cookie and Keller hadn't planned to feed a giraffe -- but they did, on the road! Steinbeck and Charley, his beloved standard poodle, had their own version of love, and Steinbeck had particular fondness for Montana, my native state.  He said, “I’m in love with Montana. For other states I have admiration, respect, recognition, even some affection. But with Montana it is love. And it’s difficult to analyze love when you’re in it.”  He also said that while it was important to make some sort of plan, it was wise not to expect it to unfold exactly as anticipated. “Once a journey is designed, equipped, and put in process, a new factor enters and takes over. A trip, a safari, an exploration, is an entity, different from all other journeys. It has personality, temperament, individuality, uniqueness. A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless." So it was an unexpected delight when we realized we had a few extra days on our California A side trip to the town of Salvador Dali's birth, Figueras, in northeast Spain.  odyssey.  I called  my nephew, James, and his partner, Kelle, who quickly welcomed us to drive a few hundred extra miles north to remote Mendocino County.  THERE WE  visited their beautiful farm, orchard and wine making operation, and toured an African wildlife preserve -- feeding giraffes in northern California. To cap our spontaneous sidetrip, they  treated us to a fabulous meal at their favorite Point Arena restaurant,  to which they supply organic produce. Ah, I love our roadtrips! An impromptu family reunion occurred in northern California. The road trip segued  to a wildlife preserve and organic farmt. COMING UP: Have you been to Cody, Wyoming, lately?  Buffalo Bill Cody named the town after himself (why not?) and it's full of lore of his life and a world class museum.  Plus California's coastal hotels, an all-girl "Two Gentlemen of Verona" (can you picture it?) at Oregon Shakespeare Festival. This top theater is fun, and we convey its spirit. Plus a Montana couple who make iron art their livelihood. We share their gorgeous one-of-a-kind creations.  All with a sense of fun and pleasure in seeing the world, at: www.whereiscookie.com Remember to explore, learn and live and tell your friends about us.

Commodore Everette Hoard welcomes the public aboard the Queen Mary this Friday for an 80th birthday party. HAIL AND LONG LIVE THE LOVELY QUEEN MARY Guests still check in as they did decades ago, in a glamorous lobby. Aboard the Queen Mary, a sea gull may be attending Friday's party!  HISTORIC OCEAN LINER HAS PROUD HISTORY, IMPRESSIVE ROSTER OF LINER-LOVING CELEBRITIES                                                                                               STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONE OF  the world's great ocean liners is having a big birthday. And we're all invited. Some anniversary celebrants will don period togs to salute Queen Mary's 80th! As the Queen Mary turns 80 Friday, I remember a long ago voyage with now departed loved ones. A view from the cabin enjoyed during a recent visit by our writers.  And I'm thinking of the thousands of celebrities, soldiers, immigrants and ocean lovers she carried across the seas.  Ah, the movie stars and diplomats who wined and dined in her hallowed halls and banquet rooms! DURING  Friday's party, Commodore Everette Hoard will read Royal Letters, including one from Queen Elizabeth II. Then he'll officiate at the ceremonial cutting of the Queen Mary's 80th Anniversary Cake, a quarter-ton replica of the venerable ship. Cake   all around! TV celebrity baker, Jose Barajas created the spectacular cake which is 15 feet long. Queen Mary christened the Queen Mary in 1934. We had the good fortune not long ago to spend several days on her, in Long Beach, California, where she's been a hotel since her 1967 retirement. How I'd love to be there Friday. But I'll savor memories of stepping three times on her, including once long ago, when she still sailed the oceans blue. THE QUEEN  Mary was christened by Queen Mary, on Sept. 26, 1934 at the John Brown Shipyard in Clydebank, Scotland.  With her was King George V, but it was the Queen who, by tradition, launched the magnificent ship. Champagne flowed as it will on her 80th, marching bands saluted and plenty of hoopla carried on into the night, before a crowd of more than 200,000.   She soon became the transatlantic crossing vessel of choice for dignitaries, celebrities and thousands of immigrants. Winston Churchill and his wife Clementine loved the Queen Mary and often sailed on her.  The restaurant's signature upscale restaurant is a popular celebration venue for Long Beach residents and worldwide visitors. I've had the good fortune to play Sir Winston's beautiful piano and mingle with the locals who dress up in vintage costumes to remember and briefly capture a bygone era. Other celebs who regularly crossed on her: Bob Hope, Fred Astaire and the Windsors.  Audrey Hepburn had her honeymoon aboard the liner.  The Queen Mary will light up for a day long public celebration Friday. QUEEN MARY --  born during the Great Depression -- grew into the biggest, fastest and most popular ocean liner in the world. She is constructed with 10 million rivets and was innovative at the time, with a waterline length of 1,004 feet (longer than the Eiffel Tower is tall!)  During World War II, she was painted grey and served as the Allies’ largest and fastest troop carrier. Later, she resumed her place as a world-class ocean liner completing 1,100-plus transatlantic voyages before retiring to Long Beach in 1967. AS THE  beloved ocean liner turns 80 on Friday, the public is invited to join a ship-wide celebration. The Queen opens her gangways and ballrooms, decks and salons, attractions and eateries to a daylong celebration. Admission is free for the party, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., along with discounted parking. Free admission and discounts on board will mark Friday's Queen Mary party. ship tours and attractions. All are welcome, especially Long Beach residents and families. Commemorations will include the reading of letters by King George V at the ship's launch on Sept. 26, 1934, and a congratulatory message from the current top royal, Queen Elizabeth II. The anniversary will feature a surprise announcement, described by ship officials as "a forward-looking plan inspired by the ship's eight-decades of public life and influence on maritime commerce."  It's top secret -- could be a major renovation, or who knows?  But the Queen promises to be around for a good long while.  Long live my favorite Queen! The Tetons in autumn  are a sight to behold -- we bring them to you soon! COMING SOON:  Livingston, Montana's Murray Hotel has hosted celebrities and rock singers,  movie stars, politicians and even a Scandinavian Queen.  What makes this 1904 hotel so appealing 110 years after it was built? And a look at Jackson, Wyo., and the Tetons, for a bonanza of autumn scenery, plus a dinner theater to tip your hat to, the Jackson Hole Playhouse! We strive for a sense of fun and play in these Wednesday and weekend posts. Explore, learn and live and tell your friends about www.whereiscookie.com

HISTORIC HOTEL LURES VACATIONERS FOR A DAY, A WEEK OR A FINE MEAL The venerable Pollard, with the year's first snow, welcomes visitors from around the world.  Below, a sampling of its atmosphere, where diners sip cocktails, and await the feast. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER RED LODGE  – Since the Pollard Hotel began a serious spiffing up more than a decade ago,  its inviting atmosphere continues to lure vacationers, locals and regulars for fine food and a stay. The delightful restaurant has continued to improve and innovate, often acting as the drawing card for an overnight  stay. The stately  Pollard Hotel was the first brick building  constructed in the mining town of Red Lodge, Montana, Its doors opened with fanfare in 1893.  Through the years, the menu has evolved from soups, sandwiches and steaks to an upscale medley of bistro offerings. The hotel has undergone major restoration and welcomes with the same old fashioned hospitality that charmed guests more than a century ago. Nick and Nora enjoy the ambiance of the Pollard. Some dog friendly rooms are available, booked in advance.       VINTAGE ONE  Bistro in the historic venue presents a thoughtfully selected menu of appetizers, soups, salads and entrees – artfully arranged on the plate.   We've enjoyed tasty tasty bison tenderloin, mouth-watering prime rib stroganoff and a satisfying meatloaf made of elk. The nod to wild game is a thoughtful addition.   A pleasing  maple salmon entrée features roasted veggies and bacon and corn fritters. Both gluten free and all-vegetarian entrees -- maybe pesto with pine nuts -- are offered. Desserts are delectable, and change daily.           BREAKFAST  is a treat --  savory salmon and brie eggs benedict, a filling breakfast burrioto with chorizo and homemade salsa, and the steak and eggs perfectly cooked.    The much loved gathering place has a guest roster to behold: politicians, actors and other personalities including William Jennings Bryan, famed silver-tongued orator; General Miles, the Indian fighter; copper kings William and Marcus Daly, scout Liver Eatin' Johnston and the raucous Calamity Jane. Management has changed several times, but the promise to deliver “continuous improvement” remains constant. Like the Bistro, with its big-city appeal, the Pollard aims for its rooms to attract diners with the same flair and excellence. The boutique hotel ambiance includes comfy beds, beautiful lighting, a book trade shelf and other nice touches.  The taco special is delightful, and all Pollard's plates are served with flair.             THE POLLARD is relaxing and decorated with attractive paintings, plants and comfortable chairs to encourage lingering at either end of the day. There’s plenty to catch the eye. The hotel also proudly shows off Charles Ringer mobiles and sculpture, paintings drawn from the nearby natural world and historic photos. Fine woodwork and first-class appointments encourage conversation with a cup of coffee or cocktail in the “History Room” study or around the fireplace in the rear gallery.  Some of the rooms look out from balconies on the rear gallery and these rooms are our favorites. Hiking near Red Lodge, fall is in the air, and the first reds, golds and purples are awaiting. Next up, the song that says autumn, and other artful nods to the season.         IF AFTER a long day of exploring Red Lodge and the nearby forest, you don't want a fancy dinner, you needn't leave the hotel.  The Pollard’s Pub offers top regional jazz acts and a fun bar-fare menu with satisfying gems such as hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage and deep fried!  It goes well with regional beers or a glass of wine. Friend Brad Smith was up at dawn to watch this black bear climb into the open garage and eat his fill of Natural Balance dog food!   The Pollard remains true to its vision of excellence and service, dating back  more than a century ago when it hosted faithful locals along with Indian scouts and copper kings, touring actors and politicians.  The bistro is a delightful get-away setting for a special dinner or breakfast.  And the Pub is the ticket for a spontaneous night on the town. COMING UP : The bear facts.  Guess who's coming to dinner at High Chaparral? We'll share some recent bear and deer photos with our ode to the wild. Then autumn leaves, so poignantly described in "September Song," prompt Cookie's ode to the beauty of the changing colors and the "temporary melancholia," as her grandmother called it. Fall -- that beautiful season.  We aim for a fresh look at nature, travel and adventure, posting Wednesdays and weekends at www. whereiscookie. com

AUTUMN COMES TO THE NORTHERN ROCKIES OFFERING SPLENDID PHOTOS, SUNNY HIKING, FROST ON THE PUMPKIN BUT WARMTH IN OUR HEARTS  At top, the Tetons are in full fall glory and in the Beartooths to the north, photographer Rick Cosgriffe takes aim on autumn. AUTUMN LEAVES BEGIN TO FALL, DAYS GROW SHORTER,  SHUTTERBUGS TAKE AIM ON THE GLORIOUS CHANGING SEASON STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The road to High Chaparral, north of Nye, awaits fall's golden touch. IF, AS the great poet T. S. Elliot said, "April is the cruelest month" then September is the kindest.  Days are still long and leisurely, with cool mornings and evenings  accented by hours of dappled sunlight and moon beams. The critters are on the move -- hummingbirds are taking their last gulps of nectar before heading south for hundreds and thousands of miles. A hike to Sioux Charlie finds autumn cloaking the source of the Stillwater. Woodpeckers and eagles, camouflaged by the density of summer foliage, are more visible on the telephone poles and branches. A woodpecker finds a snack, to help him through winter. HIKING OUR parks and national forests is a rare pleasure because the summer hoards have vanished. Gardens produce zucchini the size of footballs. Corn, pears, plums and apples are sweetened by frost. It's my favorite time in the northern Rockies, probably because I'm a hopeless romantic, and there's nothing like fall to bring out the romantic. I'VE RETURNED  to my favorite poets -- looking for poems celebrating the fall season, I've found classics by William Shakespeare, William Blake, John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Emily Dickinson and John Clare. Their poems speak to the gorgeous contrasts in color celebrated by painters over the centuries:  brilliant purples, crimsons, oranges, scarlets, golds as the green fades.  Add one of those favorite painterly colors:  cadmium, a word I've always loved.  With colors so bold and inspiring, why do we feel a bit sad, "afflicted with melancholia," as my grandmother Olive used to say? Sunflowers and crab apples at High Chaparral -- the night before the first freeze. Perhaps we're reminded of our own mortality, and brief spin on glorious planet Earth. WHEN I TRY  to outrun my demons, I turn to nature. It's difficult to be too depressed in this kind of beauty.  But because the days are growing shorter, I also turn to Kurt Weill and Maxwell Anderson and their eloquent "September Song," sung memorably by Weill's wife, Lotte Lenya.   "Oh, it's a long, long while from May to December, but the days grow short when you reach September. When the autumn weather turns the leaves to flame, One hasn't got time for the waiting game." DESPITE  the backdrop of increasingly dreary gray, nature takes on a brilliance and energy.  Just like my Irish gran Olive before she passed away and we played two-handed Mozart and ragtime on the piano. Cookie enjoys the last sunflowers, the night before frost. The harvest moon last week was stellar -- showering its glitter on the aspen below our bedroom window, bathing the berm in a halo of silver light.  Mornings are gorgeous -- clouds disappear like fairy dust. The showers come and go, and  thunder sounds like the sputters of a campfire. SO WITH  temperatures dropping, one spends more time by the fire -- safe and warm inside -- a good time to read poetry, or play that bittersweet "September Song." "Oh the days dwindle down to a precious few, September, November...... and these precious days I'll spend with you..... And the wine dwindles down to a precious brew...these few vintage years I'll spend with you, these precious years I'll spend with you." Queen Mary turns 80 years old later this month; everyone's invited! COMING SOON :   We're on the road again, enjoying this changing season and its gorgeous landscape. Stay tuned for tips on fun digs, eats and theater in Jackson Hole and Teton Village, and a look at real live cowboys moving their cattle to winter pasture. Plus Wapiti Valley near Cody, and Livingston's historic Murray Hotel. Plus the beloved Queen Mary celebrates 80 years with a bang-up party in Long Beach. Remember to enjoy, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com xxx

This Montana visitor may be a grizzly -- we can't quite see a hump. Several neighbors spotted him  recently. The nearby Nye Church  in Stillwater County, has had grizzlies in the yard and a grizzly is meandering the West Fork this week. HIGH CHAPARRAL, MONTANA, ATTRACTS WILD LIFE: LIONS (NO TIGERS), & BOUNTY OF BEARS AND DEER This bear is definitely a grizzly, as evidenced by the hump. He was photographed near Lake Louise in Canada. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE YORKIES  survived the bear last night! This bear in a neighbor's yard in rural Montana walked up on the porch! He came very close to the place, drawn by the scent of the apples.  He'd visited the night before but only to snack -- he'd feasted on the nearby plum tree so the apples were dessert.  But bears remember and we knew he'd return.  So we'd stripped the tree in the moonlight before retiring. We left Mr. Bear three dozen apples as a token of friendship and apology for turning his feast into an appetizer plate. We wouldn't mind sharing the apples, but in climbing the tree to reach the fruit, bears do tremendous damage to the boughs.  We've had to whack away at damaged fruit trees until they resemble the Monty Python "mere flesh wound" sketch. The regal mountain lion -- we've spotted him and his cousins in the Sonoran desert of Arizona and several times at High Chaparral in Montana. IT'S THRILLING   to be privileged to watch gorgeous creatures this close to our home and "civilized" life. A writer friend cautions me regularly on the necessity of bear spray, but I've never purchased it and think my hands would be too This black bear, colored brown lacks the distinctive grizzly hump.  He wandered up the lawn past the house.  shaky to press the nozzle. We do wear bear bells, though, on hikes. NICK, THE  male Yorkie, wants to take the bears on.  He once chased -- and ran up the back of -- a grizzly who was drinking at the spring above the house. The bear tossed him off his back, growled and left Nick in the chokecherries.  Fortunately he suffered only scratches, from the bushes! (Kind bear.) Whenever Nick sees a bear, he runs to the door and commences growling as if to connect in some primordial fashion. Both mule deer and white tails are frequent visitors and diners at High Chap. Nora has no interest.  She takes to her fluffy red down bed, yawns, stretches, notices the Greenie her brother was too excited to touch, and looks at him disdainfully as she eats his treat. He obsesses. She capitalizes. BEING FEMALE,  Nora has a sound sense of self preservation! (Avoid grizzly bears, sleep often, eat when food is available.) Recent sightings, ignored by Nora: Large bear at the kitchen window while I was cooking. Bears (mom and 2 cubs) while workers were here. Bear on the road by the house.  Bear in our garden. Bear on the roof! (We heard and saw him.)   WE SEE MANY  deer here at High Chap, and we've five times spotted mountain lions. Friend Brad  Smith snapped this photo of a bear on our garage roof, as he headed for a bag of pricey dog food!   One circled the house a few winters ago, and bounced against a window, terrifying our sleeping cat, Nellie, who was safe inside on an Oriental carpet beneath the window.  Another time, we pulled into the driveway at High Chaparral.  The moonlight spotlighted a large mountain lion. We dimmed the car lights and watched him for 15 minutes as he ate the remains of a rabbit. We found cat skat on the roof last week! Autumn splendor comes to Yellowstone National Park -- next up: fall colors. DON'T WORRY , friends. We're safe and very, "beary" careful. With plenty of respect and awe! COMING SOON : We salute at bittersweet autumn in the Beartooths, then we and have a few pointers for getting up close and personal with wildlife -- attracting them and learning what to look for. We try to find fun and offbeat pleasures in our travels and photos. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Cody's historic main street is showy. Old west charm, world class museum, bar hopping, great food, fun hotels and treats of the natural world await STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER CODY IS  the type of town that makes you believe in time travel. Except for the cars, cell phones and contemporary clothing in the store windows, you could be visiting this authentic western town a century ago. Cody's proximity to rivers, and changing autumn colors makes it appealing. The Irma's famous bar. Stop in for a drink at the Irma Hotel, and admire the bar as you sip.  It's among Cody's treasures, an ornate and beautifully preserved Buffalo Bill named Cody after himself, the Irma after his daughter. The Irma Hotel, above and left, is well known for its ambiance..   gift from England's Queen Victoria.  It was a hefty acknowledgment of her appreciation for Buffalo Bill Cody, who brought his Wild West show across the Atlantic. Buffalo Bill's legacy remains in Cody, Wyoming, east gateway to Yellowstone National Park, as do the natural wonders and wildlife that make a visit to Cody, Wyoming so exciting. Cody's residential area above town sports lovely yards and native flora. THE BUFFALO BILL  Historical Center, whose name changed to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, is a stunning complex of five museums and a research library featuring art and artifacts of the American West.  It's Cody's pride and joy and visitors come from around the world to enjoy an unparalleled collection of western art, guns, Plains Indian lifestyle and much more. The Buffalo Bill Historical Center has had a recent name change, and is still attracting people from all over the world. THE FIVE  excellent museums are the namesake Buffalo Bill Museum, dedicated to his life and legendary touring western show; Whitney Gallery of Western Art, including world class artwork portraying both the beauty and myths of the West; Plains Indian Museum, with its insights into Native American culture; Cody Firearms Museum, with thousands of guns and weapons, and the Draper Museum of Natural History with hands on natural world exhibits to help us understand our environment and Yellowstone's own particular ecosystem. The Sunlight Basin and its wonderful views and vistas attracts many people who are visiting nearby Cody, Wyo. If you're in the vicinity of Cody, Powell or Meeteetse, you'll also enjoy abundant outdoor recreation opportunities -- hunting, fishing, golf, river rafting, rock and ice climbing, hiking, mountain biking and camping. WHAT MOST  of us native westerners like about Cody is its easy going charm. People still greet one another on the street.  Yet despite its casual and laid back feeling, upscale galleries sell world class art. Eateries and nightspots offer a wowing array  -- from simple fare to more elaborate meals. Walk down main street -- you'll find barbecue, fried chicken, salads, wraps, Asian and even vegetarian fare. Cody has changed since my first visits as a kid in the late 1950s! THE CODY  Trolley takes you around town to the most interesting spots, including the museum.  A tour guide dresses as sharpshooter Annie Oakley. We're heading to Sunlight Basin and the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway next. There's music and a regular cowboy revue, fishing pointers and guided tours of the rivers -- check out North Fork Anglers. Most of all, nature abounds, as close-up and friendly as Cody herself! COMING UP:  If  you've enjoyed Cody's pleasures, you'll enjoy the beauty of the nearby Sunlight Basin and historic Chief Joseph Highway. These are a road tripper's dreams -- wild heights, sublime scenery and gorgeous places to picnic or unwind and take in the clouds. Check us out Wednesdays and weekends, when we strive to imbue travel with a sense of fun and adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live at: www.whereiscookie.com

The aptly named Sunlight Basin is aglow in autumn as the colors change and the air grows crisp and cool.  CHIEF JOSEPH HIGHWAY PROVIDES THRILLS, PANORAMIC VIEW OF SUNLIGHT BASIN  AFTER CLIMB UP SPECTACULAR BEARTOOTH PASS Keller and Nick and Nora pause for a picnic with view near Sunlight Bridge. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IMAGINE  you'd never been to the northern Rockies. What would you expect? Stunning mountains, clouds out of a Hallmark card display, guest ranches that remind of the 1950s TV shows. It's all there in the wonders of the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, which offers motorists unforgettable scenery and an opportunity to commune with nature from a bird's eye view. WE TOOK two of the country's most beautiful drives in a three-day period. Chief Joseph, a great Nez Perce peace maker, gave the highway its name. The Bear's Tooth, directly left of center, gives the famed highway its name. FIRST, UP  the Beartooth Pass with its wondrous and harrowing hairpin turns, glaciers -- even in August -- and pristine lakes and mountain streams. Low hanging clouds dapple the horizon in Sunlight Basin. Then after a couple days R&R at Hunter Park Ranch, we headed out the  Chief Joseph Scenic Highway with its eye-popping bridge. The Beartooth road, called by the late CBS newsman Charles Kuralt, "the most beautiful drive in America," is known ats the Beartooth Scenic Highway.  Lakes, granite peaks and the famed "Bear's Tooth," from which the mountain range and then the highway took their names. Sunlight Bridge over sunlight Creek on the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway offers a breathtaking view into the gorge. Then Sunlight Basin and the Chief Joseph Highway is Wyoming Highway 296. Guide books refer to it as the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway.  Named after the great Nez Perce Indian leader, it follows the route the chief took in 1877 when he led his people out of Yellowstone National Park and into Montana.  Their goal was to flee the U.S. Cavalry and escape into Canada.  The great chief surrendered to U.S. General Nelson A. Miles in the Bear Paw mountains of northern Montana. His eloquent speech has been often quoted: "Hear me, my chiefs:  My heart is sick and sad.  From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."   This beautiful route honors Joseph as it winds through the Shoshone National Forest and Absaroka Mountains, finally passing through the unfortunately named Dead Indian Pass. The Pollard Hotel features a lively menu befitting its history. MANY PEOPLE  like to take the Beartooth Pass from Red Lodge, stay a few days in Cooke City, then wend a leisurely way out the Chief Joseph Highway.  We went from Hunter Peak Ranch into Cody, then back out the Chief Joseph route and on back to our corner of the Beartooths through Bridger and into Rockvale near Laurel, back to Absarokee and on home up the West Fork of the Stillwater.  A breathtaking few days of   spectacular autumn-colored scenery.  THE 46 MILES  of the Chief Joseph drive includes one of the most awesome bridges in this part of the country.  Both cars and pedestrians can transit the bridge, with very little separation between the two lanes.  I passed on walking across, owing to lifelong vertigo, but Keller and the Yorkies rose to the occasion. And returned safely while I gazed at the wonders -- along with a dozen view-inspired motorcyclists.  COMING UP:   We continue our autumn odyssey with a look at Red Lodge and the Pollard Hotel, where a menu fit for kings and cowboys, royals and rodeo queens awaits. We infuse our travelogues with a sense of fun and adventure and hope that conveys itself to you! Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

CRUISE JUNKIES OFFER WAYS TO NARROW THE FIELD FOR THE FIRST-TIME OR INFREQUENT CRUISER Bird's eye view for cruisers:  A circle of yachts, large cruise ships and pleasure boats at St. Thomas, Virgin Islands. Crystal's Serenity remains our  favorite of 102 cruises on many lines. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I'VE NEVER MET  a cruise ship I didn't like. But there's a world of difference between the small, intimate vessels and the huge "city on water" mega-ships of the past years. We've had a half-dozen requests recently from first-time and novice cruisers wanting help in narrowing the field. This cave above Toulon, France, offered a gorgeous view for a small group. We hope these hints do the trick. YOUR OWN  personality and preferences will play into your decision -- large or small, glitzy or low-key, dozens of activities or an atmosphere of "amuse yourself." First, consider the ship size and number of passengers it carries. These are useful barometers. Large ships are often called "floating resorts" or "hotels on water."  If there are 2,500 or more people, expect plenty of activity and lots of hustle and bustle. If you're traveling with only a few hundred others, the environment will be quieter and usually more intellectual. But we've met plenty of smart people on large vessels, too. On a large ship, you can be anonymous and keep a low profile, seldom seeing the same people twice. Ships pause in southern Spain before navigating the Straits of Gibraltar. Small ships foster a more casual feeling.  Conversations, quiet games and making new friends are evening activities, rather than the lavish floor shows, a night in the casino or bar hopping. You might be dancing to a jazz trio instead of a 20-piece orchestra. Your choice! Many small ships are modest.  Other small ships pride themselves on lavishness and upscale service. PLUSES  of a large ship: *Mega-ships have lavish nightly entertainment and revues, many bars and restaurants, fully equipped fitness centers with personal trainers, many machines and TVs. The beauty of harbors and the sea can be enjoyed on ships large and small. *Large ships may offer a selection of in-room TV options, including movies, announcements, tour previews, even CD players plus a mix of music stations. *You'll find a large cinema on most big ships, with first-run and recent films each day. *Seminars, lectures, classes, dance lessons, bingo and other games are offered on large ships. You'll never be at a loss for an activity. If you're single or enjoy socializing, you'll be able to participate in theme parties and masquerades and socials inviting other like minded folk.  *If you fear boredom, a large ship might be a better choice for your first cruise. With dozens of activities a day, only the most jaded person will depart the ship feeling unfulfilled. *Shopping:  If you like to shop, head for big ships.  Many have floating versions of all the fine shops we have on land.  Large ships also offer extensive duty free shopping and daily bargains. Smaller vessels offer a chance to explore smaller ports. *24-hour room service and en-suite dining are usually a popular item on big ships. You will also find a florist shop and other specialty shops where you can surprise your partner with a gift or bouquet sent to your stateroom.  SMALL SHIP  advantages: *I'm a reader. Small ships encourage reading and intimate conversation. No "casts of thousands." *Tours are usually small and expertly run, with distinguished professors and guest lecturers describing the ports in a casual environment. (Head for a large ship if you want a huge auditorium with destination images on a large screen.)  But we've met lovely kindred spirits -- experts in history, the arts and archaeology -- on small vessels. The glitz and beauty of large ships, here Royal Caribbean, are a big draw. *Ports of call are generally more exotic and harder to reach in small ships.  Because they can maneuver in intimate ports and harbors, you'll see new villages and towns. If you cruise a lot, the itinerary is not important! Rome, Lisbon, Amsterdam. All great, multiple times. If you're just beginning your travels, ports play a larger role. Smaller ships can get into more exotic places -- here Tenerife in the Canary Islands, in a small, eight-person touring car. *Barge and river cruising: These naturally call for smaller vessels.  We've barged the Loire Valley, Burgundy and Champagne in France, and on the Thames in England.  Once, on an eight-day tulip barge trip in Holland, we were with only one other couple, an older Argentine husband and wife.  We became friends and kept in touch.  But if you happen to book a small vessel with only one other couple -- and don't get along for some reason -- it could be a long eight days.  This has never happened to us. A small port, such as this one in the south of France, may be more appealing than a large, busy port in a major city.  But each has its advantages. *Small vessels such as Seabourn and Silversea offer luxurious treatment and a fine passenger-staff ratio.  Crystal's Serenity offers two floors of Penthouses, gorgeous food and drink, great amenities and extras, and terrific, small tours. In the tradition of "you get what you pay for," the luxury lines cost more. *Besides offering a cozier atmosphere, smaller-size ships tout their unique atmosphere, promising unusual experiences, both on board and ashore. Activities may include kayaking off a wilderness island in Mexico, trimming the sails and climbing the rigging, or island hopping in the Greek Islands. Lisbon's delights include the Belem Tower, which Cookie and Keller visited before their Atlantic cruise. BOTTOM LINE:  What suits your fancy? Full circle to our earlier advice: consider your personality and private life. If you long for the Cookie plays piano whenever and wherever she's invited -- on cruise ships and, here, at Montana Jack's. She'll be there tonight! open ocean but can't stand the thought of an all-night disco,   dining with a thousand others, or queuing up to get off the ship in a congested Caribbean port, you'll probably want a smaller ship. But if you're a veteran cruiser -- and count me as a junkie -- you can have fun in the floating resort, too. You can learn to maneuver the crowds, read and take in the shows, and tailor the cruise to your own liking. "Oh give me a home......" in Nye, MT COMING UP :  Montana Jack's close-up (and Cookie is playing piano there again Saturday and Aug. 31, in Dean, Montana.) We're globe-trotting this month, with a request for a close-up on Barcelona. We've been there many times, and recently. Plus an all-female "Two Gentlemen of Verona" at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, California's coastal gem hotels and home on the range in very rural Nye, Montana.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Bill and Judy Henderson, above, thank several hundred well wishers who gathered at Nye's Fire Hall Sunday. Both expressed bittersweet feelings about their return to Michigan. "You've touched our hearts," said Bill.   RESIDENTS SAY SO LONG TO MERCHANTS, AFTER 43-YEAR TENURE AT NYE TRADING POST Cookie and Judy have a laugh before the festivities begin. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By  BRUCE KELLER IT WAS A community affair, with lots of laughs and some tears, as several hundred Stillwater Valley residents gathered Sunday evening. A tribute and pot-luck dinner honored Bill and Judy Henderson, who came from Detroit 43 years ago to open a small store in Nye that has taken on giant proportions. They've sold Nye Trading Post and are returning to their Michigan roots. Community folks chatted and supped, to honor Bill and Judy. Through the years, everyone who lives within 40 or 50 miles has shopped at the store.  It is famous for providing everything from nails to birthday candles -- with food and drink and staples at the ready. The road to Carter's Camp and the nearby Fire Hall, photographed Sunday. I was asked to emcee the event, at Nye Fire Hall.  A host of volunteers engineered the lively evening, with Penny Keogh spearheading the effort to honor the longtime community pillars. People visited and reminisced, enjoyed a bountiful potluck, and celebrated the passing of the gauntlet from one couple to another. The new owners made a brief appearance, acknowledging the long shadow into which they walk as the Hendersons pack up decades of memories and head out. Nye Fire Hall, photographed at twilight, as the cars began to pull out. Through my 20-plus years on the West Fork of the Stillwater, my family has enjoyed shopping at "Nye Mall." It was there my sister Misha bought worms to catch her first fish!  Countless times, we zipped to the store for a can of pineapple, a half-gallon of ice cream, cake decorations, a pound of hamburger and pickles, milk for a baby, dog food, even foam to drive nesting hornets from the eaves. Countless quick tanks of gas! What a gift to have this treasure trove just "down the road." And always with a cheery greeting and a cat or dog to keep Judy company.  Here, at request, is the poem I wrote to pay homage:  Misha Minesinger's worms -- purchased at Nye Trading Post -- hooked this trout on her first try! (Catch/release.)                                                              ODE TO NYE MALL AND  ITS DEVOTED OWNERS,  Folks came from miles around to enjoy a meal and thank Bill and Judy. THE HENDERSONS  "There once from Detroit came a pair: Bill and Judy in search of fresh air A place in the quiet, away from race riots. A small store they filled with their wares. Through the years, Nye Mall’s been legendary Because of the wonders they carry, In need of some diapers?  Perhaps windshield wipers. They’ll have it, or order, not tarry. As I look around at their shelves, I’m certain these landlords are elves Through the years, what I’ve bought, it’s a wonderful lot! A true work of art from themselves. The cooler’s my favorite addition Walk in -- milk, cheese, beer in position; Goods are tidied each day, but besides the array, Cures hot flashes and other conditions. Nye Trading Post, aka "Nye Mall," is an institution in the small town. Need some dog food, some Triscuits or ice cream? Maybe fancy some biscuits or sun screen? Pop into their store, there you’ll see “more is more” Even unplug your john, get your bowl clean! On our list Bill and Judy are tops For stocking odd items like mops Worms for fishing, you betcha?  Can’t stump them, they’ll getya. Even ordered our workers Shock Top. “Should I call them?” you  think “maybe not.” Volunteers arranged a bountiful supper of casseroles, meats, and more as Bill and Judy Henderson bid farewell to the Stillwater Valley, below. What you need they most surely ain’t got. But you’re wrong, they’ve got jello, red wine and marshmallows By friends here, they ne’er be “forgot.” One more thing now, the critters they’ve saved. “Way too many,” Bill sometimes would rave. They’ve a penchant for cats, there’s one now, as you chat -- And a doggie named Duchess, so brave. Now we’re sad that they’re going away But we notice we’ve turned their hair grey. So a toast, raise a glass, job well done, lord and lass. We salute you, good luck, happy days!"                                       The West Fork and Stillwater Valley won’t be the same without Bill and Judy.  Cookie and Keller and their Yorkies,  Nick and Nora, are among their admirers and grateful friends in Montana and the greater world! Safe travels, Bill and Judy. We'll hold you in our hearts. Cookie entertains at Montana Jack's piano bar, here Saturday night with Rex Anderson, Absarokee veterinarian, who plays whistles and flutes. Cookie's at Jack's Aug. 31 WE'LL BE BACK here at the blog and website, to our regular Wednesday and weekend posts at: www.whereiscookie.com Here, we provide lively commentary and pretty photos of world travels and happenings in our two bases, the Beartooths of Montana and San Diego. We promise a sense of fun as we navigate the globe. Tell your friends and check us out for a novel approach to life, taking time to explore, learn and live. Wednesday's post takes a close-up look at another Beartooth institution, Montana Jack's, where Cookie plays piano, locals sit in to jam, and the food is world class! Check us out Wednesday and please share today's link with friends of "Nye Mall."

Master builder Bruce Keller, whose specialty is high-end La Jolla, Calif., projects, is spending part of his summer in the Beartooths, helping Cookie with their summer home. REMODELING POINTER: YOU WILL EVENTUALLY HAVE BEAUTY,BUT AT A PRICE! PATIENCE IS A PRE-REQUISITE Expert framer Tom Giamanco traveled from San Diego to help. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WAAAAAAAAH. RICKY. I've been making my own personal "I Love Lucy" home movie.  I'm thinking of the famous chocolate candy assembly line, or the grape stomping scene.  I can't remember ever being so frustrated, excited, confused, over-extended and overwhelmed -- with more than a little physical pain thrown into the mix. KELLER knew I'd always wanted a "tree house" in the second story.  With mature aspen, beautiful stars and sky, and a backdrop of gorgeous mountains, large windows to frame the view seem a natural. With bird feeders out the new shower skylight. KELLER MADE it happen.  But it had been 22 years since I'd walked the construction trail, and my moccasins were out of step.  This major overhaul of the second-floor rooms involves the whole house: addition of a new bathroom and bedroom, redo of the office and library, a new solarium bedroom and redesign of the entryway and first floor walkway. Landscaping was torn up. Siding was torn off.  "Demo" -- contractor lingo for "demolition" -- involves destruction beyond belief. I've feared for the lives of our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, lest they be hit by flying debris.  I've been a weepy mess. Tom, painter Jim Slater and Keller keep the Yorkies,  Nick and Nora, safely out of harm's way. BUT HOLD ON. There's bound to be trial and tribulation when people are living in the home being remodeled.  And although Keller's budget estimate was close -- within a few thousand of his original estimate --  the money has been flying out the window like the cliff swallows circling at dusk. Throw in various unrelated annoyances, the ordering, delays, wrong materials, unreliable deliveries and etc.etc.etc.: Plus: Cookie, arm in sling and looking more than a bit overwhelmed, fixes lunch for the troops and awaits her "Calm" pill to kick in.  *Two flat tires on the Explorer were followed by a blow-out on the truck. Darrel Holmquist located the septic  tank and prepared for addition  of a new sewer line to new bathroom. *The refrigerator died three days after we arrived July 1. Because it fits under a custom made cupboard, it is a special heighth and thus a special order.  We were three weeks living out of coolers with the back-up 70-year old Frigidaire in the garage (thank goodness for it.) *One of the toilets in the older parts of the home checked out.  Or was it the plumbing Bruce Keller, left, and Bradford Smith of southern California, at work. below the toilet?  Suffice to say, ugly mess and overflowing waters.  Many towels relegated to rag bag and problem finally fixed, thanks to Stillwater Plumbing. BEARTOOTH LUMBER  has been a godsend, too, delivering much of our needed paint, lumber, drywall, stain and thousands of dollars worth of windows. Lunches and dinners have been a challenge -- with many extra people. But we're eating well. Keller's able colleagues have been flying in and out of San Diego. Don't despair.  Plants will grow back, and everything will be pretty again. All of this wouldn't have been so unnerving with both arms, but with one arm in a sling, result of an accident a few weeks ago, I'm moving more slowly. And I'm still in considerable pain from serious arm injury. CO-ORDINATING  schedules of the back-hoe man, septic tank man, plumber, roofer, and an array of Keller's talented California assistants has called upon my travel agent savvy, meditation skills, and extra helpings of Calms Forte. Good thing I've navigated the world and know how to arrange work times and schedules. Fixing meals for the gang -- nine workers here one day -- has taxed my imagination and resources. I think I have a dazed look on my face much of the time. Builder Tom Giamanco takes time to enjoy the west fork of the Stillwater,  and to keep in touch with his California friends and family.  NEXT UP :  Our two-parter on construction woes segues to tips for staying sane and keeping your relationship happy during a remodeling project.  Especially when you're living in the home you're improving upon, you need patience and good will toward one another. You also need to take time off to have a little fun. And you must look at the big picture:  the addition will be beautiful, the dust and disruption will disappear, and you'll be happy. We try to imbue our pieces with a sense of fun, and our travel stories with the spirit of innovation and adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Sander and saw in hand, Bruce Keller, a summer resident, embarks upon an incredible building journey at High Chaparral. KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE PRIZE AS YOU ENTER A MAJOR BUILDING PROJECT AND, OH, YES, BE NICE TO ONE ANOTHER! Demolition calls for a strong constitution and the knowledge that the chaos will end. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF I HAD KNOWN the full extent of the disruption, and the decline of my patience and mental health, would I have embarked upon this remodeling project in the wilds of Montana, miles from stores and materials and dependable help? Who knows?  Would we do most things that involve complication, unrest and tension?  Would we knowingly toss our routines and securities to the wind? Keller, Tom Giamanco, Bradford Smith clown at hat party.  All three hats represent various aspects of the construction project. The important fact: the new addition will be gorgeous.  I will have helped (a little, at least), and Keller, the maestro of this complicated orchestration, can rest on his laurels for the remainder of our lives. This San Diego native "cowboyed up" to a Montana project as large as the Big Sky he's come to love in eight summers here. KELLER IS A MASTER builder, familiar with the twists, turns, timing needs and difficulties of fitting all the pieces of the puzzle together. So he knew there would be glitches, delays, misunderstandings. He was not surprised at mistakes in orders, running short of cedar planks, errors in the course of the new rooms going up. From left, Brad, Tom and Keller enjoy lunch at High Chap.  I, foolish Cookie, expected everything to go smoothly. (From Keller's perspective, things did!) But in my business of writing, it's possible to make precise predictions.  If I were consistently late for appointments, as a couple workers have been, or if I made serious mistakes, as have happened a few times, I might lose my job. But good workers are hard to find, humans do make mistakes -- even the best in the business -- and orders don't always come in on time. Sometimes the wrong products are sent -- or the plumbing part, tool or window doesn't arrive in Absarokee -- 27 miles away, so a 54-mile round trip can be for naught. Billings means more miles and a day-long commitment. There were many trips there. A rafting adventure gave us a bit of needed R&R.   KNOWING A FEW  things will go wrong, and accepting that fact, then dealing with the situations, is a gift Keller has perfected through 40 years of being a builder and contractor supervisor.  He knows how to line up subs, fitting the pieces of the puzzle together into an intricate jigsaw puzzle.  He maintains good cheer, encourages his colleagues, listens to suggestions. (Except sometimes mine,  I contend.) Working and living in the same house one is remodeling is tough. People are in and out. Things get lost, misplaced, buried. The floor gets tracked with dirt from the digger, dry wall mud and dust.  Small Yorkshire terriers are constantly flinching as nail guns stutter and large tools are dropped or moved. Tom got to meet actor Gary Burthoff, "Radar," of M*A*S*H, at a party. Taking time to "smell the roses" -- a walk to the river, a drive in a Yellowstone Park bus, a silly time at a hat party -- all of these diversions have helped calm us and ease the tension.  We all enjoyed the recent benefit for Stillwater Protective Association at Montana Jack's, and had a fabulous time.  I made a point of fixing pleasant meals -- easy breakfasts and lunches and a tasty supper, and made sure there were cool drinks during the day and beers and wine after a 10 or 12-hour work day. Tom, painter Jim Slater, and Keller, play with Nick, Nora.   ONE NIGHT , the boys went to Gena Burghoff's birthday party the day after I sprained my arm, and met her dad, Gary Burghoff, known to millions as the amiable corporal Radar O'Reilly, on "M*A*S*H." All work and no play makes for a cranky Cookie and she notices the boys get cranky too if they don't have an occasional evening or afternoon off. Keep your spirits up, be nice to the contractor (he's exhausted and is doing a fabulous job!). The boys unwound on short, reviving hikes to the river, and spent time playing with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Big Sky Country's splendors await.  We'll share recent landscapes. COMING SOON :  We head up the California coast, enjoying some of our favorite waterfront hotels and restaurants, and we study the bird and animal life "home on the range" in our other favorite spot in the world, Big Sky Country, Montana! We try to give our pieces a sense of fun and offbeat adventure.  Remember to explore, learn and live.  Join us Wednesdays and weekends at   www.whereiscookie.com    l

ENTERPRISING COUPLE OFFERS PEACE, WHOLESOME FOOD IN GORGEOUS SETTING The pristine wilderness area of the Hunter Peak Ranch is a delightful respite from the ravages of contemporary life.    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Over supper, Louie told of a bear chasing a grasshopper.  The bear danced, the hopper escaped.  His stories are part of the fun of a stay at Hunter Peak. IF YOU want a get-away with room service, plenty of activity, and five-star spa treatment, Hunter Peak Ranch is not the place for you. Cookie enters the spacious accommodation at Hunter Peak. But if you desire serenity in a sublime setting, tasty home cooking, hiking out the door, wildlife out the window, and friendly folk when you want company,  Hunter Peak Ranch is tailor made for you! The proprietors are characters! Louis ("Louie") and Shelley Cary are hardworking, down-home people with an obvious love of the land and what they do. Autumn is in the air! Bees make the most and there's snow on peaks near Hunter. Louie was raised on the property, which has been in the family since the 1930s. Shelley came on board in 1969 and they raised a family here. Named for the spectacular peak, the ranch is nestled beneath the mountains on the Clarks Fork River in the Shoshone. A corral houses horses and pack animals, with bear-proof garbage cans. Imagine this picturesque scene years ago, when only a dirt road connected the ranch to Cody. "It took four or more hours to get there," Louie recalls, "and mail delivery came only once a week." WE CHOSE a two-day retreat at this laid back Wyoming spot because we were tired. Nearing the end of an arduous remodeling project, we longed for a quiet place, surrounded by beauty. Friends recommended Hunter Peak. It was perfect. Louie and Shelley are the third generation to operate the ranch, and pride themselves in their old-fashioned work ethic and sense of hospitality. Cookie, Nick and Nora enjoy the dog-friendly digs. There's a corral with horses and donkeys, neat stacks of fire wood everywhere, and trails to take you across the road or by the river. Louie cleared and leveled a road while we were there. Five minutes from our cabin, this lovely scene awaited! The couple -- Louis and Shelley -- manage the guest ranch to honor the tradition established through the generations: a friendly welcome, good food, pretty environment. Suites and rooms are named after the nearby mountains. "We're not babysitters," Shelley told me. "We want people to be self starters, but we're around if need be." THE ROOMS  range from  a grouping of bunkhouse-type cabins (where we stayed, because they are pet friendly), to individual cabins near the water, some with fireplaces.  If we return, we'd love to stay in one of those because having a private fireplace would have been icing on the tasty cake! The scenery was called "a celestial paradise" by one writer, and it truly is. Shelley and Louie Cary. After a torrential rain, complete with rainbows, Louie leveled the road early the next morning.  WE FOUND  our cabin comfy and roomy, with a kitchen suitable for fixing meals. We prepared a supper and breakfast here and enjoyed a meal with the Carys another evening. The food was wonderful: steaks cooked to order, quinoa side dish, fruit salad, homemade rolls and a delicious peach and pear pie baked by Shelley that afternoon.  Rates range from $150 a night to a couple thousand a week for the larger cabins which accommodate up to 10 or 12. THERE ARE  pet friendly rooms! As mentioned, this is a must for us! Keller enjoys a wade in the waters near our cabin at Hunter Peak Ranch. The place attracts a mixed clientele -- from Europeans in love with the mountains and hiking, to American and Canadian tourists in search of change and dramatic scenery. During our stay, we met neighboring summer people from Santa Barbara and Ashland, Oregon, and visited with a family spending several days at the ranch, and a three-generation group from Nebraska.  All of us enjoyed the dazzling peaks and lush mountain valleys northwest Wyoming provides. THE BEAUTIFUL  Chief Joseph Scenic Highway gets you there, or you can do what we did, weather permitting:  go in via the spectacular Beartooth Pass out of Red Lodge, and you'll drop into the valley and Hunter Peak Ranch, just a few miles away. Then we went home to the Beartooths through Chief Joseph, stopping at the much photographed bridge to enjoy a picnic. To book, call 307 587-3711.  Or go to www.hunterpeakranch.com To our delight, there is no cell service in the area, but you may use a calling card on the ranch phone for emergencies. COMING UP:  Why we enjoy "road tripping." The joys of short and long car journeys together. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com