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Today's Figueres is an average European town, except for the stunning Dali museum. Dali pushed the envelope, liked layers, analyzed endlessly, admired Freud   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WIDELY TRAVELED  and celebrated worldwide, Salvador Dali always returned to the sun-streaked villages of rural eastern Spain. He was born and died in Figueres, where he also had his Dali's playful touches abound, even on this staircase with its woman. first art show as a teen-ager. And he chose this town for the showiest of his three Spanish museums. The land of his birth was familiar and inspiring and Dali never lost his appreciation for the terrain. The sunny, craggy Costa Brava (wild or rugged coast) was particularly appealing to him and his wife and muse, Gala.  She played a huge role in development of three museums maintained by a foundation named after the famous, flamboyant artist. THE 'TEATRE -Museu Dali" (Dali Theater Museum) is a highlight of Catalonia and eastern Spain. The Dalis lived several decades in their beloved Portlligat home. The Dali House-Museum in Portlligat and Gala Dali Castle House-Museum in Medieval Pubol round out his triangular museum legacy. Prepare for an intriguing melange of Dali imagery and iconography that can only be described as fantastic. In "Atomic Leda," with Gala as the centerpiece, Dali disguised himself as a swan and fills the painting with mythological allusions. In "The Argonauts," the artist's talent and attention to detail can be seen:  on the foot of one of the Argonauts are wings with gold, rubies and emeralds. Dali's "Persistence of Memory" takes on time, mortality and more. This Dali work is a clever trick -- two and multiple figures. Depending on where you stand,  you see a different painting. Keller checks out Dali's museum in Figueres, a three-level maze, treasure hunt. "The Persistence of Memory," perhaps Dali's most famous painting, tackles the weighty issues of time, mortality, the complex issues of being human, and more.  It is not in Spain, but in the Museum of Modern Art, MoMA, in New York City.  So if you can't cross the pond right now to view Dali's delights, he is represented in the Big Apple, and has his own museum in St. Petersburg, Florida! (Where he also re-visited his famous 1931 "Memory" painting thesis. AND THE drawers. Dali gave new meaning to "chest of drawers" and his drawers are a metaphor for the many layers and secrets he believed we all possess.  A great admirer of Sigmund Freud, Dali said, "The only difference between immortal Greece and our era is Sigmund Freud who discovered that the human body, which in Greek times was merely neoplatonical, is now filled with secret drawers only to be opened through psychoanalysis." Dali's museum pays homage to Mae West in an intricate display. Drawers reign in Dali's art. They're everywhere. Mae West's room (Dali was fascinated by the buxom, be-wigged and earthy actress) features the risque actress as only Dali could create her: she's part jewels, part furniture, part paintings.  Her lips are a couch and there's a staircase for viewers to climb and get a new perspective. THE HUGE,  beautiful ceiling in the foyer of the building -- a former theater -- features Dali and Gala flying to heaven, watching their own idyllic burial and boat trip to the next dimension. Wow! Dali's childhood in Figueres affected in his decision to base his museum here, where he staged his first show.      For splash and dazzle, only a couple other Spanish names vie for the eye appeal: Pablo Picasso, of course, and Antoni Gaudi, who died in 1926 when Dali was not quite a teen. Dali said, "I want my work to be like a single block, a labyrinth, a great surrealist object. 'PEOPLE  who come to see it will leave with the sensation of having had a theatrical dream." Gaudi, considered an avant garde architect, had his own dream, for he was the magician behind the fabled La Sagrada Familia.  Gaudi's passion for 43 years of e, toil ("The Holy Family") is a curious homage to geometric perfection and sacred symbolism.  Barcelona's eccentric and still-under-construction cathedral is replete with pineapples and an elaborate nativity facade telling the story of Christ's birth and the virtues of Faith, Hope and Charity. Gaudi's imposing LaSagrada Familia is impossible  to miss in Barcelona's skyline. It is still under construction. THE 12  apostles are not yet fully installed, but -- look upwards -- and sometime in the next 20 years, the cathedral patrons hope to complete construction. What would Dali do with those cranes? Perhaps he would integrate the last one on the site, maybe in a "sculpture" making use of the crane's natural cross. How could he  resist preserving the crane as the integral part of the project it created. (Then again, what would the Pope think?) Perhaps Dali and Gaudi are sharing a sherry and debating in the great "teatre-museum" in the sky. Between the tiny village of Aiguablava and the larger town of Dali's youth, Figueres, Spain, are farm land and castles.  COMING SOON:   Dali's love of light and landscape are shared by many Catalans, who farm, fish and frolic in land that their ancestors have lovingly tended for centuries. Have a look as we drive this lovely corner of Spain, aglow in winter sun with its furrowed fields and castles. THEN   we visit a first-rate parador named after the most beautiful village in Costa Brava, Aiguablava. Its fantastic food, gorgeous appointments, glowing blue water and backdrop of pine trees make a relaxing yet exciting get-away.  Then back to Barcelona, where we take a closer look at Gaudi's gaudy and extraordinary masterpiece. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at:  www.whereiscookie.com

FOX RENOVATION TOOK A LONG AND WINDING ROAD WITH A NAME CHANGE TO HONOR ALBERTA BAIR STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS from archives and BRUCE KELLER THE ALBERTA BAIR  Theater site was almost a parking lot. Or yet another bank. And Billings, Montana, did not need another bank when we set our renovation plan in motion on a cold day back in 1976. The "movers and shakers" who helped create the fund- raising effort for ABT,right. It was winter, and the heat was turned low so we met in our coats beside the silent soft-drink machine in the once grand Fox Theatre lobby. Because of the stalwart efforts of volunteers and activists -- including (full disclosure!) myself -- the 1931 building reigns as the largest performing arts center between Spokane and Minneapolis, Denver and Calgary. In the late 1970s, when we were struggling to save the building, we approach rancher-philanthropist, world traveler Alberta Bair, hoping she would contribute a large sum "Sleeping Beauty" was a big Fox hit. to an endowment with the thought that changing the theater's name might entice her. Businessman Ray Hart, surgeon Hewes Agnew, rancher Earl Rosell, hotelier Con Carter, art directors, librarians and many others helped convince Alberta that the theater should be saved -- and  carry the Bair name into its future. We volunteers successfully lobbied the Billings City Council to help us with a renovation effort. How proud  I was when the building opened with much fanfare in 1987.  Alberta contributed nearly a million dollars toward the nearly $6 million project. The late director William Ball brought his famed San Francisco acting company to Billings. Skip Lundby, actor and director, played a key role. THE BUILDING  serves an arts minded community of more than 400,000 and  was saved by the blood, sweat and tears of activists and actors and, yes, even some of those bankers who originally wanted the land for their own endeavors!  Actor Skip Lundby, who acted as the "Save the Fox" managing director for years, cooked hotdogs on the stage lights and slept in one of the dressing rooms -- a la "Phantom of the Opera," a fitting reference.  Skip directed many of the plays which raised seed money for matching funds and grants:  "I Do! I Do!", "The Fantasticks," "Promises, Promises," and a raft of others.  We produced local shows and imported many big name talents. ONE OF MY  many treasured memories of the performances I reviewed was when the late jazz pianist Dave Brubeck sold out the house in summer of 1979, urging the standing-ovation audience to "save this Marian McPartland, the late,  great jazz pianist, played the Fox. The late jazz pianist Dave Brubeck, helped turn the corner for the Fox/ABT. wonderful building." That same summer, William Ball and his recent Tony winning American Conservatory Theater did three sold-out performances in Billings.  We hosted the actors to a pitchfork fondue and became fast friends with the actors and stage hands.  We also made $20,000 profit which added momentum to our effort and encouraged donations. Bernadette Peters headlined one of the ABT's sold-out galas. Jazz pianist Marian McPartland endorsed the effort, as did Judy Collins, below, and a string of "ABT Gala" performers praised the building and preservation effort right from the stage: Bernadette Peters, Harry Belafonte,  Burt Bacharch and many others. Harry  Bela- fonte and Bair had fun.  The conversion of the 1931 building, the last of the great Fox Theaters built in the country, presented challenges, but a crack architectural effort resulted in a theater that pleases people on both sides of the curtain. Performers praise the lighting control booth, which was relocated at the rear of the main floor, and the sound control booth, which sits at the front of the balcony.   THE FRONT APRON  of the stage has its own hydraulic lift, and the orchestra pit can hold 40 musicians and their instruments.  For private events and receptions, a custom designed orchestra shell and large vinyl dance floor provide versatility. Burt Bacharach loved the venue. I remember that first fundraising production of "I Do! I Do!" and the shabby dressing rooms, paint peeling and no adequate heating for a cold winter's night of costume changing. Now, two large chorus dressing rooms and two star dressing rooms can accommodate more than 40 performers. BECAUSE OF AN  enlarged lobby space, the main staircase to the loge and balcony was moved, and is now visible beyond the main shell of the building adding style and function with via an eye-catching glass stairwell. I'm proud of my  part in the effort, and I hope Alberta is smiling down on us with pride, too! COMING UP : The Greek Isles are a magnificent get-away any time of the year! Come with us, remembering to explore, learn and live. Check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

The  Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres, Spain, sets the tone for a magical day, with its egg-topped facade. NOT ONE, BUT THREE MUSEUMS PAY HOMAGE, CELEBRATE DALI, INTRIGUE VISITORS “Without an audience, without the presence of spectators, these.... would not fulfill the function for which they came into being.  The viewer, then, is the ultimate artist.” —Salvador Dali, 1959. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER MENTION  Salvador Dali and what comes to mind? Dali's "Soft Self-Portrait with Fried Bacon" was painted in 1941. The clock face melting off the table, the elaborately manicured mustache, the piercing eyes, a sense of regal daring in everything he did. Dali pushed the envelope in the art world and in his personal life.  He teased, flirted, played.  He made his audience think.  He was a fine painter, capable of elegant  representational work, but he achieved international attention through his splashy surrealist creations:   “The Eye of Time” with its piercing and glittering clock face as eye. His own playful “soft” self-portrait, with bacon! An art lover is dwarfed by a gigantic female figure atop a Cadillac, with  boat and palm. One of Dali's favorite cars lends mystery to the place. THE BASKET  of bread, inching its way off the table is an apt metaphor for Dali.  He walked a high wire in the art world, maintaining his balance when taking artistic chances. His partner and eventual wife, Gala, inspired his “Atomic Leda” and “Galarina,” for she was his lover, muse and soul mate,  model for many of his fantastic and fanciful works. WHAT FUN he would have been to interview, perhaps in one of his lavish sculpture  gardens, surrounded by antiques that he and his enthusiastic partner collected throughout Europe. DALI WAS  born in a beautiful corner of rural Spain in 1904 and lived to be 85, spending his most fertile period  with  Gala, whom he married in 1958.  Together, they created three museums. One was developed from a castle with elephant sculptures adorning a labyrinth of huts built by fishermen and woven together by the couple between  1930 and 1970. One of Cookie's favorite Dali sculptures in Figueres.  VISITORS MAY enjoy myriad aspects of Dali’s life in all three museums, which emphasize his insistence that the visitor/viewer  participate in the aesthetic experience by entering Dali’s eccentric world.  Our entree into his world began in Figueres, with his enchanting brick and egg-festooned museum and theater. One enters through a massive courtyard with a Cadillac and giant female sculpture of a winged Venus. LIKE DALI,  the figure is over the top.  In many respects, the artist lived a “normal” life.  He had one major, long relationship, stayed mostly in his beloved birth land, and cultivated passions for food, travel, theater and art. A detail from Dali's "Palace of the Wind" ceiling includes Dali himself. But “normal” obviously bored him, so his Cadillac sports a mythic woman, rising to greet the beyond. A palm tree holds up a boat. A woman’s golden locks are, upon closer inspection, dozens of corn stalks.  From a close-up perch, a sculpture resembles a couch.  But at long range it becomes Mae West’s lips.  Each tableau intrigues.   Cookie and Keller at Parador Aiguablava on the Dali trail. DALI DIED  in 1989, but his legacy lives on through a foundation which preserves his work in the three splendid and lavish venues. In Figueres, the Dali Theatre-Museum, inaugurated in 1974, presents his broad-range of work in a “more is more” theme.  From that imperious giant Venus figure with Cadillac in the courtyard, framed by the palm and boat, to the Mae West room and the world of Dali is opulent, glittery, energetic and fun! Come with us to visit the other two Dali venues! COMING UP:   Dali's world offers the visitor a fascinating aesthetic experience, but museums are only part of it.  Add food, sun, vino, antiquities as we travel through Dali country to a unique parador on the rugged Costa Brava. Dali's love of food and wine is explored through our own "taste tests" then we visit a 12th Century village which inspired Dali, and revel in sunlit pleasures of a remote corner of eastern Spain. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us                                                                                                           Wednesdays and Saturdays at                                                                                                                       www.whereiscookie.com

Late autumn is a delectable time to enjoy the hospitality, light, architecture of Catalonia A field glows in the mid-day sun near the beautifully preserved Catalan village of Peratallada, in eastern Spain. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Church of Sant Esteve is open for services but was quiet on our visit. PULL OFF  the major highways anywhere an hour northeast of Barcelona and you won't be sorry. You can't really make a "wrong" turn in this lovely stretch of land. Furrowed fields await spring planting, beautiful gardens sport huge cabbages in late autumn, and beets and carrots are still to be harvested. Ancient stone buildings are lived in today near Peratellada. DOZENS OF  little villages welcome the traveler and fall is a fine time to take it all in. The gorgeous 12th and 13th-century village of Peratallada is bustling with tourists in summer, but in December, we walked through the town by ourselves, followed for a time by a friendly old mutt who sat down at the cafe with us and warmed himself in the sun. A French couple eventually materialized, offering to take our photo.  We were comfy in our light jackets and joined the dog in soaking up the rays. THEN WE  wandered through the village with its warm stone houses, beautifully preserved. Long a favorite of Catalans, this delightful ancient village is known by few Americans.  Europeans flock here in summer, flying in to bustling Barcelona and driving a couple hours. The delights of Peratallada are enjoyed off-season in near solitude.   SUNNY  Peratallada, in the municipality of Forallac,  county of Baix Empordà, is one of several proud, immaculate villages in Catalonia, about 22 km east of the larger and better known Girona, north Catalonia's largest city.  On the approach to town, only the occasional tractor, car or combine suggests contemporary life -- otherwise, one goes back in time nearly 1,000 years. THE VILLAGE'S  lovely name is derived from pedra tallada, meaning "carved stone" and you'll see plenty of  stone in this charming, cohesive town. B&Bs and hotels in Catalonia are quiet in late autumn.  Keller tries out the Spanish hardware store's myriad offerings.   WE LITERALLY did not see another person for nearly an hour -- rare in usually crowded Europe.  But visiting in late November and into early December has proved to be our favorite time for travel in southern Europe. IT'S STILL  warm enough to enjoy the sun, the hotel rates are reduced, the crowds are gone and the native people take time to fully display the subtleties of hospitality.  Here in Catalan country, we've found the people are welcoming and helpful in any season.  Our hotel concierge went out of his way to find us a "ferreteria" or hardware store in a nearby larger town. We'd forgotten all three of our transformers, a necessity for using a computer in a rural part of Europe (because Spain's voltage is 220 and our American computers and other devices operate on 110.) OFF WE went with a picnic, to Palafrugell, making a day trip of our search for the transformer. Time for enjoyment, in the Catalan tradition, in Peratallada. Keller, a master building contractor in San Diego,  was in his element wandering around the tiny store. "It's like an Ace Hardware Store on Spanish steroids," he exclaimed, examining with glee a compact but extensive  display of wrenches, hammers, and every household gadget and accessory he could imagine. WE HEADED back to our parador, just in time for sunset and flavorful Spanish red wine, savoring tapas, new friends, gorgeous sights. We cherish the memory of shopping in a foreign land, using  basic Spanish and actually being understood!                                                                                                                       COMING UP :  The parador is a time honored means of receiving guests.  "Paradores of Spain" include gorgeous properties, top-rated hotels, sometimes in castles and palaces.  Come with us to the Parador Aiguablava, where hospitality with a Catalan twist is offered.  Here, the food is sumptuous and the sun gently warms the rocky cliffs high above the Mediterranean.  Ole! Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Corby Skinner and the writer, aka Cookie, were instrumental in the  saving and resurrection of the programming at the "old Fox", now ABT. Fox Theater's renovation to the Alberta Bair Theater is told  Egyptian and Art Deco touches marked the 1931 Fox. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS from archives and BRUCE KELLER 'ALBERTA  dozens of venues are named after the Bair family," I pleaded. "You're the theater lover. Let's name this one after you!" It was 1980, and the "Save the Fox" campaign had been underway since 1976. This is a first-person story, because I was a "first person," if you will. One of the first to suggest, publicly, through lectures and newspaper stories, that the building be saved.  I was also the first one to write about the possibility of its name change. The 1986 renovated Fox:  the ABT.  THE FOX  Theater, built in 1931, had been a much loved movie house and performing arts center. Community Concerts used it as a forum for their world class acts: famed singers, musicians and symphony orchestras, ballet troupes and other entertainments made up a five-or six-part season. The theater was a gorgeous, Art Deco building with ornate carpets, chandeliers, curtains and adornments. People dressed up to go to the concerts, which were cultural highlights for many of us living in small towns surrounding Billings -- Roundup, Red Lodge, Big Timber, Laurel, Absarokee and more. The former Fox opened as the Alberta Bair Theater with much fanfare in 1986.  At right, famed cellist Gregor Piatagorsky, who played the Fox, and below, in 1931.  Each town had a membership chairman who sold tickets. In my hometown of Columbus, my parents,Richard and Ellen Cosgriffe, bought season tickets to Community Concerts for the family. In the 1950s and 1960s, the Cosgriffes drove the pre-freeway highway -- rain or shine, sleet or snow -- for concerts at our beloved Fox. SO WHEN I , as a young reporter, heard rumblings that the building might close, that it could be chopped up for a multi-movie complex, be razed for a banking endeavor or, worse, be leveled for a parking lot, I sprang into action. The Billings Gazette encouraged me to write editorials and news stories explaining the plight of the building, whose film clientele had dwindled with the spread of suburban movie theaters. I RESARCHED,  and reported, the building's rich history.  It hosted the famed cellist Gregor Piatigorsky, violinist Jascha Heifetz, singers Marian Anderson and Paul Robeson, trumpeter Harry Rancher, philanthropist Alberta Bair was born on the Fox site. James, Metropolitan opera stars and many jazz and classical greats. I learned that Martinsdale based traveler Alberta Bair had been born in 1895 in a brick home on the site that would host the Fox. In 1976, I organized the Fox Committee for the Performing Arts, a group of The entrance to the Fox in the 1930s. civic minded folks from the arts and culture community. Building owner Carisch Theaters had considered expanding the longtime movie house into a three-movie-theater complex, but many of us believed that the downtown needed a live performing arts hall more. WE WERE  long on ideas and enthusiasm but short on money.  We sold $500 patronships to keep the building afloat, put on plays such as "I Do! I Do!," our first Fox Committee production, in the autumn of 1977. The 1931 Billings Fox was one of the  last Fox theaters built in the nation. In the leading roles of the married couple were my late husband, Bruce Meyers, and Cathy Hansen Brown.  We made enough money to keep the utilities paid another year, and by 1978 we were producing a string of popular fundraisers -- "Grease," "The Fantasticks," "Promises, Promises," "Anthing Goes" and many more.  In 1979, the "save the Fox" endeavor attracted some movers and shakers, along with our faithful arts patrons from the museums and other music and performing groups. Jazz great Dave Brubeck helped save the Fox. COMING NEXT:   The fund-raising effort includes sell-outs for Dave Brubeck and many other big names. A corner is turned, the renovation begins and the Fox is saved -- although with a new name! What went on behind the scenes?  Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

The Ahmanson Theatre in Los Angeles is in the artful Music Center complex. Danny DeVito and Judd Hirsch charmed a sell-out Ahmanson crowd for"The Sunshine Boys."  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A PLAY AT  the Ahmanson Theater in downtown Los Angeles is always an event! We dress up.  We  like matinees so we make an afternoon of it then carry the revels over into evening with dinner out or at a friend's home.   We revel in the productions, analyze the performances, have a glass or two of wine and linger outside, savoring the atmosphere -- recently vocal jazz buskers -- an a capella soloist and a fantastic trio singing "Stand By Me" and other classics. Danny DeVito played the Ahmanson recently, and, below, Cookie enjoys.  THE AHMANSON i s part of Center Theatre Group, which includes three venues:  The Ahmanson Theatre, Mark Taper Forum and Kirk Douglas Theatre.  The Ahmanson is big and appealing with a bucket load of fine seats.  Ours - in mid orchestra -- have been excellent for a variety of productions in the two years we've subscribed.  We've seen a brilliant production of Stephen Sondheim's "Follies," a snappy "Anything Goes," a stunning production of "Over the Rainbow," with Tony nominated Tracy Bennett channeling Judy Garland. We've enjoyed both drama and comedy with casts large and small.  Always we appreciate the venue. The Center Theatre Group's pretty space attracts theater goers to the Mark Taper or Ahmanson.  We just saw the season opener, "The Sunshine Boys" with Danny DeVito and Judd Hirsch.  It was the run's final performance, and brought the house down. THE AHMANSON  has variable seating and a proscenium stage, allowing capacity from 1,600 to 2,000.  Both small-cast productions and larger than life musicals can be accommodated in this versatile venue.  Unusual touring productions are also featured, including the upcoming "A Word or Two," crafted by the splendid actor Christopher Plummer. A theater-goer photographs the Ahmanson's lovely fountain and sculpture. OSCAR WINNER Plummer will star in his own personal homage to language written and arranged by Plummer and directed by Tony Award winner Des McAnuff at the Ahmanson. Christopher Plummer is coming! Plummer, who confesses to being “hooked on the intoxication of words,” spent much of his time growing up in Montreal reading Ben Jonson, George Bernard Shaw, Shakespeare, Rudyard Kipling, A.A. Milne, Lewis Carroll, Lord Byron, Dylan Thomas, W.H. Auden and Stephen Leacock and others. His take on these literary giants journeys from childhood to old age. I won't miss this opportunity to hear and see one of the great actors of our time.  This show will likely sell out, so book soon. (For more, go to CentereTheatreGroup.org or call 213 628-2772. SLATED FOR  the upcoming subscription season,  the Ahmanson's diverse slate includes "Porgy and Bess," "Peter and the Starcatcher" and "We Will Rock You." Next door, the Mark Taper Forum, with 739 seats, is also in the Music Center and part of the three-stage Center Theatre Group. The intimate Kirk Douglas theatre, with only 317 seats, is the third part of Center Theatre Group, located in downtown Culver City. The Fox is now the ABT. The once and former Fox, circa 1931. COMING UP : In Montana, the Alberta Bair Theater almost didn't exist. Now it's the region's largest performing arts venue.   The once grand Fox could have been a parking lot or yet another bank, but for a grassroots effort. That story, next up! Remember to explore, learn and live, and read us Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

Economize, pack light, think layers, develop a color theme STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER You'll want clothes that look stylish but don't weigh a ton. TELLING SOMEONE  what to pack is like telling college kids what they should take for first semester. They'll wear what they want, thank you very much. The point is to take clothes that make you comfortable,  that allow you to have fun, relax and feel properly turned out -- whether for fancy occasion or casual time. THERE ARE many styles, many methods of packing. Invent your own, remembering that it's important to be able to carry your stuff. You can't always get help at the train station, the car rental, or maneuvering out of the airport. Misha Minesinger looks "picture perfect" on the West Fork of the Stillwater River, fishing for trout in "smart casual." MY SVELTE  Atlanta sister Misha travels large. She dresses up to go fishing, and she always looks like a million bucks.  She checks a big bag and hoists a large carry-on.  She's also an inveterate shopper, and has been known to buy an extra empty bag to schlep stuff home. She likes her clothes and accoutrements. Once on a trip to Europe right after my husband Bruce, died, I packed so badly it was comical.  No worries. Misha had wardrobes for both of us -- including a beach day and a formal night at the Lido! ON THE OTHER  end, my exercise pal Laurie travels light. She and her husband, John, put what they need in a pair of backpacks and have adequate clothes for a week in San Francisco or a couple weeks abroad. By Laurie's own admission, she doesn't pack baubles and silks. And she'd have to borrow opera togs. Nora is sleeping inside the carrier, but Nick is having a look around. I'M SOMEWHERE  between these two opposite examples.  I like my clothes, but I limit myself to one large check-through Pullman, and a loosely packed carry-on. When I travel with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora are my carry-on, so I've learned to economize on "stuff." For a cruise, I pack a nice formal top but I no longer haul long formal gowns and sequined shoes, and Keller doesn't take tuxedo gear anymore.  (Those formal guy tux shoes and glittery girl heels are space hogs, and the black-tie gear gets worn only two or three times on a trip.) MOST CRUISE lines and even the opera houses in Prague, Milan and Vienna no longer insist on black tie.  Ladies can blend in shipboard or at the Bolshoi with a nice little classic black dress or skirt and top with fake jewelry. My grandmother called that her "drinking and praying" outfit. For the guys, a dark blazer or sport coat and one dress shirt and tie will work for "fancy." You're set. No one cares about your shoes. True story. Add caption * BASIC THEME.  Deciding on your attire really depends on what you do when you're there. Develop a theme before you go.  Do you consider yourself  "outdoorsy, active, casual" or "formal, fancy, elaborate" -- or like me, somewhere in between.  This little self-imposed categorization will help you craft a wardrobe that won't waste precious suitcase space. If you're hiking in Scotland, Spain or Switzerland, or sunning in the Caribbean or Greek Isles, you'll need little more than casual -- cottons, denims, wash-and-wear. Throw in a pretty top and shawl for dinners out. The "layer up" edict is time honored. Start a cruise or tour morning with slacks, shirt, sweater and light jacket tossed over your arm. Strip away the lawyers as the sun warms the Earth. * GET A  color scheme going, too -- blues and greens, beiges and fall colors, etc.  Mix and match your clothing within loose color guidelines -- including scarves, jewelry, hats, sweaters and other accents. You'll save on space and economize on volume. Keller is dressed for sailing, ready to lend a hand on deck.  * I INCLUDE  a pair of jeans, a turtleneck, two capri slacks, two or three lightweight tops or blouses, a dress jacket and nice skirt as part of my "uniform."  Keller packs five or six shirts and tops for a long trip: two short sleeve, two long, a Polo and sweat shirt.   Don't forget a rain coat and hat. Add a light sweater or wrap -- crucial on ships, trains and in theaters.  And we both like pockets. * SHOES, FOOTWEAR. As mentioned, these are space hogs, so I've pared myself down to three pair.  A sturdy pair of comfy walking shoes is essential for city tours, hikes, shore excursions or a sail or boat trip.  Add a basic black pair for "fancy" or "resort casual" for dinners or brunches, theater outings, receptions. A pair of sandals, comfy loafers or slippers suffice for lounging, going to the beach, hanging out. Guys can sometimes get by with two pair -- casual for day and dressier for evening. Next Wednesday's travel tips continue with shopping hints. * UNDERWEAR, ETC.  Take just enough underwear and socks for a week and plan to find a laundry once. If you're staying with friends or family, keeping clean clothes is easy. Ships have self-wash laundries and hotels and cruises offer laundry send-out. If you can afford it, let them to do the work. On a month-long Asia tour years ago with 11 other delegates from International Women for Understanding, an attorney friend taught me to wash out blouses and undies and squeeze them inside a towel before hanging them up. They'll be dry by morning. COMING UP : What else to pack?  Copy special documents,  get rid of the non-essentials, remember vitamins and plan to buy one unique gift for yourself -- so leave room for that!  Then dining well without doubling your dress size.  Remember to explore, learn, live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at:   www.whereiscookie.com

TRAVEL LIGHT: DON'T LUG BOTTLES OR TAKE WHAT YOU CAN EASILY BUY 'OVER THERE' Nearly everything you might forget can be easily purchased, usually cheaply, while on holiday. So don't stress. This ship stateroom may be furnished with duty free  beverages, so avoid bulky, heavy bottles in your baggage.  Pick up a bottle or two of wine at your destination. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER REMEMBER , the globe is shrinking with technology and travel advances.  You're not visiting a remote planet. You're probably going to Paris, Rome, the British Isles, Mexico, China, South America, the Caribbean, or to visit relatives or friends, possibly one of our delightful U.S. destinations. Maybe a cruise. ALL OF THESE places have markets, shops, convenience stores! Don't pack bottles of liquor when you can purchase duty free on the plane, or buy your wine on the ship or a supermarket. (Not at the hotel -- way too expensive.) Buy a wine package on the ship to save money.  They won't let you cart your own on board -- they want you to buy theirs! As you pack, think about each item you put in. Evaluate its usefulness and importance. Do you really need it? Can you pick it up there? As a trip ends, Cookie sorts, sifts, decides what to toss. Here, she'll give away a cheap cooler used for picnics.  * THE INCREDIBLE BULK.  If you forget something, you can buy nearly everything you might need -- from razor blades and tooth paste to cosmetics.  You'll pick up freebies from the hotels and ships -- shampoos, lotions, etc. Your bag will get heavier; don't load yourself down.  If you stick to one loosely packed Pullman per person for check-through, plus your carry-on (backpack for Keller with his laptop in the padded center), you won't be weighted down. Save room for small gifts -- coffee, tea, jam, cookies. Toss or give away small, junky, bulky "unnecessaries" you've collected before flying home. Buy one nice item for yourself -- a flat scarf is easy to pack but if you can't resist the fun pair of shoes on sale in Italy, have the store send them home. I've never failed to receive anything I've bought this way. Fake pearls, a compact but pretty top, a sport coat and tie dress Keller and Cookie up for a night on the town in Las Vegas. * AVOID TAKING  the family jewels.  Sure, you can use the hotel and ship safes, or check your valuables with the concierge, but why stress?  No one will care if you don't wear your Mikimoto pearls or your grandmother's diamond bracelet. Have fun.  Bring attractive costume jewelry and you won't agonize if you lose something. Never bring your favorite anything on a trip. *  COPY  YOUR PASSPORT,  visa, driver's license and other valuable documents.  Put them in a separate place from your carry-on original documents (inside a book or your laptop bag, somewhere you'll remember.)  Keller also uses his Droid Take a few tops out -- no one notices wardrobe repetition. to photograph our critical paperwork, including our airline confirmation numbers, cruise boarding documents and passport main pages. * DON'T DOUBLE UP.  Check with your traveling companion and don't duplicate items you can share --  tooth paste, deoderant, vitamins, pain relievers, etc. Again, it is essential to be able to carry your own stuff. Period.  You can't always get a porter in a train station. * ALL THAT OTHER STUFF .  I just looked at a bag that I still haven't unpacked from the last long trip -- nearly three weeks. Good packing makes a relaxed Cookie -- with enough stuff to look nice.  In it, I discovered items that were never used. I'd packed three pair of capri pants.  Two would have been adequate.  A little hair-curling kit was not use at all -- and it weighed two or three pounds.  (I had my hair done once cruising to Alaska and washed and blew dry it the other times in Seattle. Didn't need curlers.) If you have to sit on your bag to close it, take some stuff out! ON A RECENT  trip to Europe, I didn't need any of my electric plug converters and adapters.  Most of the nice hotels now accommodate American electronics.  If you do need a converter, the hotel will likely have one.  So the old adage of "packing, then taking half of the stuff out" might serve me well on the next trip. You'll sleep better with a lighter bag.  I swear by it! * BE RUTHLESS  with yourself.  Think, "Do I really need that extra black shell top?  Will anyone notice if I wear the same swimsuit to the beach or pool twice?  Must I really have three separate formal outfits for the ship's three formal nights? Big bulky sweatshirts and fluffy robes are not necessary.  If it's really cool, I borrow Keller's sweatshirt and he wears his jacket and sweater. And hotels and ships usually provide robes. NEXT : Wednesday, a tribute to violinist Robert Sandstrom, left, who mixed it up with jazz and swing, played first-violin symphonic scores, loved Bach, opera, Celtic and more. His memorial service was Monday in San Diego. Bravo, Bob. We miss you. COMING UP :  Dining on the road and not turning into the incredible bulk.  We offer tips on food and enjoying yourself, indulging without gaining tons of poundage. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

The Moulton Barn, one of the world's most photographed, makes a picturesque day trip from Teton Village.   Artful Alpenhof offers ambiance, location, spectacular mountain views, gourmet breakfast in friendly Teton Village  Our early autumn visit to the Alpenhof yielded hospitality, fine food and splendid weather. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT MAKES  perfect sense that Europeans love the Alpenhof Lodge, tucked against the spectacular Grand Teton Range in Wyoming. The inn has the ambiance of a Swiss or Austrian chalet, with flowers in the window boxes, a full hot breakfast, and Old World hospitality. It even has a yodeling website! The Alpenhof has charm, convenience and location. From a cordial welcome at the front desk, to help with dining bookings, theater reservations, and park tips, the lodge delivers. I Jenny Lake is one of the Grand Teton's loveliest. It also offers spa services and a top, high-quality massage program which is enjoyed by hikers in summer and the ski crowd in winter. JUST A DOZEN miles northwest of Jackson, the four-story Alpenhof boasts a casual bistro and a more formal restaurant called the Alpenrose  specializing in European dishes -- fondues, game dishes, schnitzels and the like.  An extensive wine list was attracting takers when we were there recently. THERE ARE  plenty of lovely hotels and inns in Jackson and Teton Village, but the Alpenhof is front and center at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain.  It's just steps to the aerial ski tram in winter.  In summer, the box office and staging area for the acclaimed Grand Teton Music Festival are a stone's throw away. Rose hips signal the onset of fall. For natural wonders, the Alpenhoff Lodge has proximity.  The Grand Teton National Park's southern entrance is just north of Jackson and you may do what we did -- start in Yellowstone National Park and wend your way south, then take side trips from Moran Junction in the Jackson Hole Valley. Once the parks are reopened, of course! Meanwhile, here's a recap of the wonders we saw while based for a long weekend at Alpenhof. The inn is steeped in the hospitality of "gemutlichkeit," an Austrian word which conjures relaxation, laughter, music, fine food and wines and a leisurely pace.  All of that is offered at Alpenhof. One of the many artful touches at Alpenhof. IT'S A GOOD  idea to stay two full days, as we did, so you can properly experience the wonders surrounding you and give proper attention to the Alpenhof's amenities. One day, we headed toward Dubois and traversed the rugged Togwotee Pass (the "w" is silent.)  This heavily wooded region is located on the continental divide in the Absaroka Mountains -- and recently experienced more than two feet of snow. The drive from Montana through Yellowstone then  the Tetons offers many opportunities to pause. We were spared, thank goodness, by planning our trip in late September just before the big blizzard   and the national monetary crisis conspired to close parks, passes and many roads and highways. WE HAD  perfect weather as we headed toward Dubois.  We decided not to go all the way there, choosing instead to find the famous Moulton Barn, in the Grand Eggs Benedict, perfectly done, and fresh fruit: Alpenhof breakfast. Tetons.  The structure is one of the most photographed barns in the world and is celebrating its 100th birthday this year.  It was constructed in Mormon Row, now a well visited historic district, by T. A. Moulton to shelter his horses in the harsh winters for which the area is infamous. WE SPENT  a peaceful hour there, talking to other writers and photographers, enjoying the plaques and historic photos and exploring the barns, fields and corrals in this Mormon settlement. The Alpenhof in winter.   We enjoyed a drive past the lovely Jenny Lake Lodge, but didn't stop for a cuppa as planned, to enjoy the splendid view.  We were running out of time and sunlight. The proximity of winter skiing and a world-class music festival in summer are part of Teton Village's allure.   THE PARK'S eight large lakes and many small ones, plus glaciers, snowfields and lush pine, fir and spruce forests entertained us for another day's leisurely drive. By chance, as we returned, the mayor of Jackson popped by the parking lot, on his way to a reception.  Mark Barron's greeting is typical of the friendly welcome we received. Regrouping in our Alpenhof room, we decided on a soak in the hot tub, and a swim in the pool -- it was still warm enough to brave that. The Alpenhof's artful touches include plants and photos, tasteful pictures and prints, a "bring one and take one" library shelf, delightful plaques and Swiss-Austrian chalet hints. Antique touches abound in the  Alpenhof's breakfast parlor. EACH MORNING , a tasty hot breakfast is served with all the traditional fixings, from homemade granola and muesli to fresh fruits, egg dishes, meats, cheeses, juices and yogurt. The coffee is served in a carafe -- excellent and strong -- and there are daily specials such as a Belgian inspired waffle and delicious Eggs Benedict which we enjoyed as our farewell. The Alpenhof is a real Alpine treasure, a picturesque entree to one of our nation's most revered national parks.  Warm, friendly service, cozy and quaint rooms and fabulous food in a gorgeous setting await.  All that and natural wonders.  A pleasant way to gild the lily! Rates vary, depending on the season.   307 733-3242. www.alpenhoflodge.com . Yellowstone National Park's many hot pools and geysers attract worldwide attention. Once the  parks are open again, an international clientele returns. COMING SATURDAY:  With the government shut-down, our national parks have sadly closed.  But the nation's first national park, Yellowstone, will soon be open for fans of winter wonderland. Don't miss our look at Yellowstone National Park in its autumnal splendor and winter glory. Remember to explore, learn and live and visit us Saturdays and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

It was late November when Keller and Cookie toured Lisbon last. LONDON IN SPRING, LISBON IN FALL MAKE SMART SENSE FOR THE ENTERPRISING TRAVELER   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS,  PHOTOS BY BRUCE KELLER It's a lovely feeling to arrive in a foreign destination and not feel crushed, crowded or surrounded by other tourists. The harbor in Toulon, France, off season in early December. HERE ARE more tips on making the most of your time and money, thinking outside the box, being creative on the road! * THINK "Off-season."  Late spring and late autumn are wonderful times to travel, whether it's to one of our country's splendid national parks, an Atlantic crossing or a couple weeks in Australia or Europe.  Schools are in session so you won't be surrounded by kids in hotels or planes.  Hotel rates are lower and the beauty of the countryside in changing seasons  matches the attractive prices. * BAG IT UP.  We always teased my mother for packing empty plastic bags whenever we traveled. But she knew what she was doing. Friends Misha and David Minesinger enjoy off-season time in Key Largo.  I bring a half-dozen variously sized plastic bags.  They take no space and are great for soiled or damp cloths, odd toiletries, extra batteries, laptop and phone chargers and other stuff that gets scattered throughout the luggage. Thanks, mums. You can shop economically at a city market -- this large one is in Sao Paulo. *  EATING OUT.  Surrounded by foreign snacks, bakery delights and all the treats we indulge in when traveling, it is not necessary to eat three full meals out every day. In the morning, we do fine with coffee and a sparse breakfast, often included in the room price.  Full American breakfasts are expensive overseas. We often picnic for lunch -- a stop at a market for a hunk of cheese, a baguette, an apple or pear, wedge of salami, a couple beers or split of wine -- and thou! Under $15. Keep fruit in your room and take a banana or apple with you on a walk.  Then we have a nice supper, often composed of three or four appetizers or a large salad and a shared main course.  House wines are usually excellent in Europe, sometimes served in a carafe or pitcher and half the price of bottles. *AVOID PRICEY  hotel shops and gourmet food places and shop instead at the local supermarkets.  We  always pick up tins of tea and bags of coffee for reasonable prices.  (Save room when you're packing.) Fun memories to sip a cuppa with a French or Italian label Be up for a mountain trek or hike, as this one in Santorini, the Greek Isles, with Cookie and Corby Skinner. when you're back home.  A $3 package of cookies with the foreign label, or jar of local jam are nice presents. No need to spend $25 at duty free or the airport. You can also find cheap gifts such as t-shirts by shopping around. * IF YOU'RE  visiting only major European cities, take the train.  Eurailpass is time honored. European trains are clean and punctual. A Labor Day march in Athens, viewed from the Grande Bretagne Hotel.   If you're concentrating on villages within a small area -- say, Tuscany, Costa del Sol or Provence --  rural locales trains don't regularly service -- you're better off to rent a car.  Buses are also an inexpensive way to augment travel and save money. But driving yourself on a big European "Tuesday it must be Belgium" loop is not a good idea for the time, expense and pace. Overnight trains save you hotel money, too.  We traveled once from Venice to Paris, leaving in the evening in a shared, four-bed sleeper car, arriving rested the next morning with new friends and a shared midnight supper! *  HAVE YOUR  camera and sense of adventure and discovery ready for the unexpected! Sometimes the most memorable photos come from a spontaneous moment, an surprise event or scene upon which you stumble! Jugglers in Barcelona, marchers in Athens, the Queen's Brigade with horses and riders, enroute to Buckingham Palace on a sunny London morning. COMING NEXT :  We take a look at    travel technology, from apps for reading, to maps, to money-saving phone tips. Then on to the art of learning to fully enjoy vacation.  Then our grand travel tips take an in-depth look at packing and preparation! On to eating wisely, looking for nature and combating jet lag.  Catch us Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

Watch for roaming charges, look for new apps and plans Let your phone be your travel agent.  Helpful apps abound for the domestic or foreign traveler.  Use them! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Travel can be enhanced by taking time to read, research. TECHNOLOGY  has made travel easier and the world smaller. Like it or hate it, we might as well embrace it and use it to better our lives. T Taking advantage of our rapidly changing high-take world makes more sense on the road than anywhere else.  Take advantage. Our travel tips theme continues with a look at ways to use technology and modern conveniences to enhance our adventures domestic or abroad. A travel app helped us find this offbeat guitar restoration shop in Nashville. *  ROADY READING, l iterature, listening. A girlfriend showed me her iPhone, proudly noting 10 audio books and a Kindle app with 12 or 14 books. If she has an unplanned lay-over, or misses a connection, she'll never be without something to listen to or read. You can also download travel books and travel maps. I am a hold-out for the old-fashioned turn-the-page book. But never hardbacks.  I take two or three slim novels, then use the ship's library or B&B "take one and leave one" book shelf to augment trip reading.  I also leave my books as I read them, either giving them to a maid or new friend, or to the hotel reception. * USE SEARCH and booking services to find deals on flights, hotels, car rentals, and more. Most search and booking services come with apps for Android, iPhones, and iPads.  This is useful when plans change (and they will) and you need to find a new hotel room, change a theater booking, move up a dinner reservation. Apps can help you plan, have a good time! * Use websites and apps. They've revolutionized travel since we were first exploring Europe in the late 1960s. They'll help you find hotels, car rentals, specialty shops, city tours, museum hours, gas stations, local eateries, dog and family-friendly places and good prices for filling your rental car or your tummy! A couple are Fuel Finder and GasBuddy.com You can also find an app for nearly every country or destination. Just go to the web and plug in your country and the words "travel app." *In the airport, GateGuru is a cool smartphone app providing information on more than 10 airports with restaurant and retail options and discounts near your gate! This woman is texting on  vacation -- she may be incurring extra charges. * PHONE HOME? Don't forget to turn off your data roaming before you leave the country. We once racked up a $75 charge on our Droid, while booking from our ship a last minute, half-day city tour. As we sailed into Fort Lauderdale, the roaming meter was running! Smartphones sometimes "push" download updates and messages, too, and these automatic procedures incur charges. Keller once forgot to turn off his roaming and got a $150 charge when his messages downloaded at the Rome airport! You've worked hard for your time off -- now you must concentrate on relaxing, enjoying! * Consider an app for foreign travel, such as Skype or Google Voice that will let you call at Wi-Fi hot spots for little or no charge.  On ships, buy an Internet package and use e-mail to keep in touch with home.  When you get to your country, consider a cheap cellphone in that country.  One frequent flier friend uses a prepaid SIM card to call his U.S. family. The wireless T-Mobile is introducing a global calling plan at a reasonable price -- about 20 cents a minute. The plan just went global with unlimited data and texting in over 100 countries at no extra charge. Plus improved features for calling and texting during U.S. travel. You must have a compatible phone.  Check it out. *  USE HOUSE  phones for local calls. If you aren't conversant in the language, your hotel desk clerk will usually be happy to make the call.  I always reconfirm the next night's lodging, even if I have a print-out. Good back-up. COMING UP : We continue our travel planning tips series Saturday with tips for learning to relax, enjoy and appreciate your hard-earned down time.  Essential elements can help you travel lighter, freer, happier -- paying for things ahead, exploring local haunts to enhance your time away from home! Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

LINE UP YOUR LODGING BEFORE YOU LEAVE, BE OPEN TO ADVENTURE Memories come in small moments, here on Portugal's Belem Castle bridge. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHAT MAKES  a trip memorable? For me, it's having planned as best I can, being familiar with my itinerary, lining up lodging and activities before we leave. Then, the frosting on the cake: the unexpected treat, and being able to fully appreciate and enjoy it. The unplanned upgrade to the corner turret room at the Victoria hotel, with a harbor view of the ship we'd sailed in on. A charming little B&B can delight -- with scenery, comfort, hospitality.  The whitewashed inn on Santorini, where we sipped Ouzo, watched the sunset on the Mediterranean and had fabulous lamb skewers. The farmhouse B&B in Ireland, where the family invited us to a musical evening.  I played the piano with the granddad fiddler in their parlor for hours! We even jigged! THE CONVERTED sugar plantation hotel in Nevis where monkeys played in the tree outside the bedroom window. If you don't stop to smell the flowers, you will not fully  enjoy your trip and you may return home annoyed.  The sidewalk cafe in Sydney -- jam packed, with no empty tables.  The owner motioned us to wait, disappeared into the back and came out carrying a table over his head! A waitress followed with place settings, olives and a bottle of wine! We had a view of the famous Sydney Opera House and the bridge -- and the best table in the house. All impromptu! TRAVELING  is supposed to be fun.  If it seems more like work or a chore, you're doing something wrong. Not over-packing and considering off-season travel are two hints! We hope these other tips will help.  They're gleaned from a lifetime of passionate traveling: If you forget an item,you can buy it -- here a hat for Cookie. * BUDGETING .  Years ago, a wise older friend taught me this "ball park" formula for trip planning.  The total daily expenses of two people will be roughly two-and-one-half times your double room hotel rate.  It's a pretty accurate equation. Make it three times if you plan to splurge -- lots of fancy dinner or several high-priced theater outings.    This includes most things -- room, meals, museums, cabs,  tickets, tours, drinks and snacks. An off-season trip to a beach or seaside hideaway saves money. * GET A MAP,  the best you can find, when you choose your country or region.  Bookstores have great maps.  So do libraries, but you'll want your own so you can mark it up and take it with. Once you book your hotel, you can arrange outings from that base. Start tearing out newspaper clips and magazine articles that pertain. * STASH THE CASH .  I always get $40 or $50 one-dollar bills from the bank.  Ask for new ones.  Divide them in a few places -- both of your wallets or purses, with a few in a plain envelope for the hotel safe. Many places in Europe still take dollar bills for small purchases. I also get $50 worth of $5-bills which make excellent tips to the hotel porters, a concierge who books a restaurant or play, the tour guide who gives lively commentary and helpful pointers. Or a busker who plays Bach fugues. * FOREIGN FEES . Your bank may have an international partner where ATM fees are waived.   Sometimes the ATM cash withdrawal is cheaper than an exchange kiosk for getting Euros or the local currency.  We always get $200 in Euros at home -- or the destination country's money -- so we have taxi fare and first-meal money and can avoid the high exchange charges at airports . A half-day trolley tour for Keller in Lisbon. Although it was late November, a light jacket was fine. COMING SATURDAY :  We take a look at the advantages of traveling off season, and eating where the locals eat. Then it's on to travel apps and phoning abroad. Then our grand travel tips series takes an in-depth look at packing and preparation!  On to dining in splendor on the road without turning into a tub of lard and doubling your dress size.  Then tips for navigating through TSA at the airports, and how to beat jet lag.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com