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"Paradores Spain"  include the lovely Aiguablava which looks out on the Mediterranean.  Steps lead to the sea. Parador Aiguablava's dining room overlooks the pool and ocean. SPECTACULAR SETTING, LOVELY ARTWORK COMBINE WITH FINE DINING STORY: CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS: BRUCE KELLER OLD WORLD  hospitality meets contemporary design and  artful flair in Spain's Parador Aiguablava. Glass, light, tile and artwork stimulate the senses at Aiguablava, where hospitality and art reign. This splendid hotel is a jewel in the crown of Costa Brava, and many natives think the little village is the prettiest of all the competition in a galaxy of eccentric, beautiful east coast villages. The spirit of Salvador Dali gives an artful personality to the place, and the Aiguablava shows its pride in this son of Catalonia, displaying his art along with that of Miro and other well known artists of the late 20th Century. PARADOR AIGUABLAVA  stands on a majestic corner of land, with mountains and a winding pine-lined road on one side and the cliffs above the Mediterranean on the other.  Called the prettiest of all Mediterranean villages by one fan, Aiguablava's waters are a piercing aqua-blue, a hue of almost hypnotic appeal. Pretty Parador Aiguablava stands atop a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean, one of Spain's most beautiful views. The architecture of the parador expertly and with great subtlety integrates the outdoor beauty with the indoor artwork and furnishing.  The result is a constantly pleasant infusion of relaxation and stimulation -- an enviable means of complement. OUR FIVE DAYS were not long enough, so quickly did we immerse ourselves in the ocean views, the fabulous food, the hospitality extended with both ease and sincerity. The parador is a time-honored method of enjoying Spain.  Its history dates from 1926, when the government introduced them to promote tourism. You can rest your head and dine in castles where art was created, conspiracies hatched and kingdoms won and lost. THE CONCEPT -- similar to Britain's National Trust -- allows owners to restore but not radically alter castles, monasteries and mansions, thus providing inns in beautiful, natural surroundings. The Aiguablava, our hotel, is near the village of Begur, 50k north of Barcelona and one of the Costa Brava's prettiest medieval towns. It's perched high on a hilltop and is a lovely little town to wander. It is also within a couple hours' drive of the trio of Salvador Dali museums and houses, and within  easy reach of Tamariu Beach, Sant Sebastia Lighthouse, Llafranc Harbour and other attractions. The interior of the Aiguablava vies for attention with nature's outdoor art. WHILE AIGUABLAVA  is fairly new, many older parador hotels are sprinkled through Spain -- from Galicia in the North to Andalusia in the South, to Spain's Canary Islands as well as in Ceuta and Melilla, Spanish cities in North Africa. The parador often reflects the heritage of historic Spain. MODERN HOTELS , such as our treasured Aiguablava, were built in spectacular and romantic locations. Since the state maintains the buildings, it tries to locate paradors in areas where they don't compete with the private sector. Many, including Aiguablava, are in or near medieval towns and villages first inhabited long ago. www.reservasaparador.es www.parador.es Breakfast diners find an array of pate, fruits, cheeses, meats, juices, hot pastries, eggs to order and four tables of choices. COMING NEXT:  The Parador Aiguablava takes dining to new heights, with a sumptuous breakfast buffet and gourmet dinners that entice the guest to linger two or three hours for lobster stew, sea urchins and baked snails.  We look at the ritual of Spanish dining -- elevated to an art form -- and check out a paella party.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at:   www.whereiscookie.com

UP, UP AND AWAY WITH SOME TIPS FOR A QUIETER, HEALTHIER TRIP STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Once you're up, up and away, a few pointers can help you arrive not terribly exhausted, and perhaps even rested! NOW THAT  we can work on our tablets and read our e-books during many phases of flight, the airways are increasingly user friendly. But if you're flying "across the pond" -- over either ocean, East or West -- or over the Rockies, maybe to Australia, you have a long journey ahead. There's no way it won't beat up on you. A few tips may help you fly the skies in decent shape and reasonable comfort. All it takes is a bit of planning. * SLEEP STUFF.  First, organize your carry-on before TSA.  Make sure you put together a little carry-on bag of sleep aids:  a u-shaped pillow, an eye mask, ear plugs and a shawl or light sweater. Once you're pushed back, you can relax and enjoy. Once you clear TSA, check your "sleep kit" and  start drinking water. Situate yourself, your stuff quickly. * BUY A  bottle of water immediately after you clear TSA. Start chugging it down.  Or bring an empty bottle inside your carry-on and fill it immediately after TSA, when you use the bathroom before boarding your flight.  Hydration is critical in the air. Refill the bottle often. Remember, air in the cabin is not humidified. Experts recommend eight ounces of water every hour or two.  On the plane, if you're in first class or business, or even in coach across the pond, it's nice to have a cocktail or two.  It helps me relax. Beware of over-imbibing. Both caffeine and alcohol will dehydrate you, but I drink double the amount of water for each glass of wine.  I'm not about to deprive myself entirely. * CARRY A SMALL  vial of hand lotion (under the three-ounce TSA limit) and keep a chapstick in your purse or pocket.  I also carry eye drops to help combat the dryness. Have a look out the window! * Business travelers already know that many carriers now offer in-flight wireless internet -- for a fee, of course. Keller does a lot of business while we're flying, believing it's worth the fee for him to stay productive and connected while in the air. The price isn't horrible. Gogo Inflight Internet charges $12 for one flight's worth of internet service. A monthly pass for frequent fliers is about $30. The connection isn't too slow.  And you're communicating at 30,000 feet!  * MY MOTHER was the world's top hand-washer and she seldom got a cold.  She was ahead of her time! Flying can be dirty business but soap and water are usually easily available.  Take advantage. Wash your hands for 20 seconds every couple hours.  Mum also carried little square packets of hand wipes, and a small bottle of sanitizer.  I do that, now, and think of her.  Just a dab of an alcohol-based sanitizer on a paper towel helps clean tray tables, overhead lights, the sound or video ear and head piece, arm rests, etc. MY ASIAN   friends use little mouth masks when they're feeling ill.  I appreciate that.  But it's too much to expect everyone to do that in an airplane.  If you have a cougher or sneezer near you, get out your sanitizer and wipes and use them! A pasta dish may help you sleep. * HUNGRY?   Save cash and useless calories by bringing snacks This pre-ordered meal was tasty! along. I usually bring a couple carrots and a celery stalk, a half-dozen crackers and some dried fruit and nuts. Little prepared packs of peanut butter and crackers are good, too. You can also make your own. On long flights, you can pre-order kosher or vegetarian meals.  Sometimes they're healthier and tastier than the regular fare. I once shared a first-class cabin with Robert Redford, who declined the shrimp and steak and asked for the chicken dish from coach! Protein dishes give you energy. Great if you want to read or work.  If you want to sleep, choose pasta. * IF YOU  have kids, you know they get bored in the air, even if the flight isn't a long one. Portable DVD players can be found online and at electronics stores for as little as $100. Get some kid games if you travel with a tot. Well worth the price for all concerned, and appreciated by those of us who travel childless. Toss in headphones for the little people and you'll all have a more restful flight. * HELP US ALL!  When you board the plane, you should have your phone or other toy put away.  Find your seat, place your carry-on in the overhead bin, get out of the aisle and sit down.  Turn off your cell phone -- remembering that , iPod, portable DVD player, and other electronic devices are now okay to use on most airlines. But don't make someone come and ask you to turn off your phone! The captain or flight crew will tell you when you may use it again. * CHANGING SEATS?  No airplane can take off while people are standing. We've all asked someone to switch seats so we could be with a spouse, friend or relative. Best to arrange it with the person, get approval from the flight attendant then wait to execute your switch until the flight is in the air and the seatbelt sign is off. These two are taking a nap between flights! This first-class cabin is luxury! Cookie and Keller enjoy a walk, a rest and a snack when they arrive. * DURING a long flight, walk the plane a time or two. Stretch. Look outside! If you have a connecting flight, get some exercise by walking the terminal. Do some simple muscle and leg flexes.   Turn your head  slowly, move your ankles.  Try to sleep, for at least three or four hours.  This will help ease you into the new time zone. * I LIKE TO  take a walk when I arrive at my destination -- even if I'm eager for a nap. A walk perks you up. Have a cup of coffee or strong tea before your stroll, enjoy a snack, and if you must nap, make it no more than an hour.  Have dinner at a reasonable time and don't get more sleep than you normally would.  In a couple days in the new time zone, you'll be acclimated. Keep drinking that water.  But a little wine won't hurt. The beautiful Ahmanson Theater in Los Angeles offers top-drawer shows. COMING UP:   The Ahmanson Theatre in Los Angeles is a treasure of the city and a treat for theater aficionados, including two travelers and play lovers from San Diego. Actors Danny DeVito and Judd Hirsch recently finished a run of "The Sunshine Boys" there and Christopher Plummer is on tap.   Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

Fiddler Robert Sandstrom: master of jazz, classics, western,  opera, swing, bluegrass, jazz   and the gentle touch  Top right, Bob Sandstrom happy with his violin. Above, after a jam session with Karlene, right, and Cookie. Left, at Monday's memorial, a fiddle  rested near Bob's ashes, a symbol of his love of music To hear Ashokan Farewell, often played by Bob, click here Though it's time for farewell, time for the parting, Whatever the dawn may bring, You'll be part of my heart, each living moment, Come summer, come autumn, come winter, come spring --from Ashokan Farewell STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By KARLENE SANDSTROM and BRUCE KELLER Bob's precision and sense of fun marked  his every performance. ONLY A HANDFUL  of musicians reside comfortably in the diverse and myriad worlds of music. Robert Sandstrom is one of them. Friends said farewell Monday in an emotional celebration at Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcala.  After a heroic 18-month battle with an aggressive cancer, Bob is free of pain. Perhaps he'll once again play the violin he couldn't lift during his decline.  WHAT A GIFTED  violinist was our versatile virtuoso friend!  He could play church hymns in the morning, tea-time tunes in the afternoon then honky tonk, jazz and blues at an evening jam session. Maybe a little evening vespers with a dash of country swing for sweet dreams. WHETHER PLAYING  his beloved fiddle for a benefit, symphony concert or spirited jam session with friends, Bob took possession of his instrument – and his audience. Like a musical acrobat, he Bob, left, mixes it up at a patio party with his pal Salvador. played with the greatest of ease.  He was a musician for all seasons.  He endures in his music, for through art, we live on. I REMEMBER  the night Bob and I met at a friend’s home. We were the entertainment.  We were immediate friends, alternating “do you knows?" and ticking off songs.  Sometimes my chord changes were a bit rough – I hadn’t played the bridge to “Smoke Gets in Your Eyes” for years, and I’d never played the opening of “Dark Town Strutters Ball.”   But we were a hit -- with songs from “Evita,” "Man of LaMancha" and “West Side Story,”  Mexican folk tunes, Irish jigs, ‘40s standards, Beatles tunes, even opera arias. Above, Bob and Karlene enjoy a little cuddle, below Bob with his violin and, right, as a younger man in his convertible! THAT NIGHT  was effortless but Bob was precise and he liked other players to be, too.  I stretched with Bob and for several sweet years, we played together in friends’ homes, my place, at hotels – I on uprights, grands, electronic keyboards and Bob on his fiddle. Our soirees were accompanied by fabulous food and wine, animated conversation and applause. Through his illness, my partner, Bruce Keller and I kept in touch with Karlene, attempting to buoy her spirits.  I know something of her loss for I have twice been widowed. The cancer that killed Bob also took my second husband. BOB'S PRIZED  pernambuco bow was dear to him. Recommended for advanced students, it is known for its ability to provide instantaneous feedback. Bob and his bow collaborated for gypsy folk tunes, Bach fugues and ragtime. The dense pernambuco wood is orangish in color – not unlike Bob’s sandy hair once was – and the bow is known for its effortless feel – a quality Bob possessed in spades.  Impressed by his enthusiasm for pernambuco, when Keller and I were in Brazil we admired many pernambuco carvings and instruments. I wrote the following to Karlene last August and was honored that she sent it on to many of you: Monday's memorial featured many musician friends paying homage. "Dear Karlene: It occurs to me that Bob and his beloved pernambuco violin bow have much in common. We listened as Bob described the wood’s wonders and depth of sound. As he listed its virtues, we were struck by the parallels between Bob and pernambuco.  Like Bob’s music, pernambuco is resilient. Like Bob, it is beautiful to admire and listen to. Like Bob, it is classic and time honored. We are thrilled to know Bob is surrounded by the music he so loves. He is "human pernambuco," Bob, left, with friends Gloria, Keller, Cookie. a marvel of nature,  a true and profound talent.  Your love and caring for your sweetheart touches our hearts. We hope to hear him play again, holding his pernambuco bow with grace and precision. Pernambuco is a treasure protected by the Brazilian government. Bob is a treasure, too, protected by all who love him. Please give him our love and keep his precious violin tuned and his bow at the ready!" A sense of fun always enhanced Bob's playing. Bob Sandstrom played his violin in Mission San Diego de Alcala, where friends gathered Monday to play and sing at his memorial.    BOB WAS bilingual and loved the southwest and southern California.  I enjoyed hearing him speaking Spanish to our many Hispanic friends in the San Diego area.  And he loved to play tunes inspired by that part of the world – we once improvised a whirling “Espana Cani,”  a famous Gypsy inspired piece.  I began the familiar rhythms and Bob joined in.   Our room of 20-plus friends burst into a standing ovation – before returning to the paella that they'd abandoned. Bob's only son and brother are gone, too. And Karlene revealed that he gave up for the violin for several years after the death of his infant son, Bob had given up violin. She brought music back into his life! Karlene was his muse and he also deeply loved his daughter Robin, her husband, Stavros Papaconstantinou of Athens, Greece and their children: Anna Paola, Alexia and Dimitris. May they continue Bob's global musical interests.  Bob’s only sister, Charlotte Gritton of Arizona, told me the music-filled service was "a most fitting tribute for my talented brother. He would have loved every minute of it!" COMING NEXT : We return to our popular travel tips, with pointers on enjoying yourself, eating well and getting the most out of your precious time away. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

A BIT OF CONTROL HELPS AND YOU STILL INDULGE ON YOUR HOLIDAY  Dining and drinking are pleasures of travel, here new friends! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER SO YOU'RE  loving your Caribbean cruise, Spanish parador, Rio hotel, Mexican casita, or Cotswolds B&B. Maybe you're with your favorite cousins exploring San Francisco. Hiking across Spain. Or enjoying a theater marathon in New York. Eating is one of the great pleasures of life, and no more so than when we're on holiday. A small, elegantly served appetizer on Crystal's Serenity. The escargot, the duck a l'orange, the rich soups and sauces, homemade breads, then mousse, creme brule or tarts for dessert.  More cocktails, wine and after-dinner drinks than we would normally consume at home. So what to do? Vacation is not the time to deny yourself.  But you don't have to choose everything offered or gobble every bite of every course. HERE ARE  some tips we've gleaned. Yes, we've gained a few pounds over decades of frequent traveling, but we employ a few techniques that keep us from annoying ourselves when we  step on the scale once home. A few downward dogs at an Arizona vacation yoga retreat.   * EXERCISE EVERY DAY.   I can't emphasize this enough.  You know you are going to be indulging, trying new things, drinking and eating more than usual.  So get up every morning, do a few stretches and take a walk after breakfast.  If you can, go to the gym on ship or at the hotel. See if there are exercise classes available and try to make yourself work out or join a class at least two or three times a week.  It all adds up. * BREAKFAST.   The old "eat a good breakfast" adage never worked for me.  True, it does make you feel better -- satisfied and relaxed -- but that also means, for me, that I feel groggy and unproductive.  So no big breakfasts for this reporter.  Granola, yogurt, fruit, coffee or tea.  No bread, butters, jams or pastries on a regular basis. I How about toasting your Greek isle cruise? splurge once in a while for my favorite vacation breakfast -- lox, bagel and cream cheese, but NEVER every day.  And nix on the bacon, waffles, omelettes, and Eggs Benedict. If you and your partner want to split a large item once in a while, live it up!  Low-fat milk instead of half and half, and bypass the creamed sausage and biscuits. A handful of raisins and pecans or walnuts is good, and a bowl of fresh fruit.  No juice unless it's fresh. * LUNCH.  My favorite meal of the vacation.  If we're walking or touring a new city, we buy the picnic described in an earlier post -- cheese, fruit, a small amount of bread, a split of wine and some meat or chicken.  If we're on a ship, I head for the salad bar.  It's smart to go easy on dressings and pasta items. Aboard Oceania's Insignia, a table for seven pauses between courses. Go instead for a bed of romaine.  I add artful dollops of vegetables, shrimp, red onions, a bit of grated cheese, sunflower seeds, raisins and maybe some cherry tomatoes or a few slices of avocado.  If I crave dessert, I have a tiny dish of sherbet. Once in a while, I fall off the wagon and have a cookie, too. * DINNER.  Cocktail hour is trouble because drinking stimulates the appetite.  Still, again, be moderate.  Try the smoked salmon pate or the fresh shrimp, but go easy on the little pastry sausage things and the fried items or tempura.  I again skip breads at dinner and avoid creamed soups and rich appetizers, choosing instead a cold soup and a small salad. Can't resist dessert? Share  at your table and sample. FOR MY MAIN  course, I order broiled or grilled chicken or fish, and nothing with fancy sauces.  On ships, I eat only half or a bit more. On land, Keller and I usually share a couple appetizers and a main course.  Perfectly satisfying. If you're with a group, share a few desserts and everyone gets a couple tastes of the bread pudding, flan or creme brule and chocolate eclair. Remember the "20 minute lag" -- it takes your tummy 20 minutes to tell your brain it is full. Your liver, spirit, waistline and wallet will thank you! Tips on transiting TSA, up next! COMING UP:   Transiting the TSA line can be a challenge, a drag, a frustration.  We'll share a few pointers we've gleaned on how to get through quickly at home or abroad -- with no conflicts, wear and tear, tension or forfeited items!  Remember to explore, learn and live.  And check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at:   www.whereiscookie.com

NEW 'PRE-CHECK' OPTION LETS YOU THROUGH WITHOUT REMOVING SHOES! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Options DID   YOU  know that you can greatly simplify your transit through the airport TSA by purchasing a pre-check screening option?  It costs $85 but lasts several years and is worth its weight in platinum. NEARLY 100  airports participate in this expedited arrangement.  We found out about this by chance, when we were randomly selected to try it out.  But anyone can get it -- if you pass a basic security scan.  One applies on line, answering a few  questions. A vetting process occurs and if you are accepted as "pre-screen" material, your status will last five years, and may then be renewed. THE RANKING  allows the traveler to enter a special line where you need not remove your shoes and belt.  Even more appealing, you may keep your laptop in its case, carry-on or back pack. YOU ALSO  get to keep your belt and jacket on! To find out more and which states and airlines These travelers are in line to check through bags. participate in pre-check screening, go to    www.tsa.gov/tsa-precheck/tsa-precheck-application-process   Learn the 3-1-1 rule for carry-ons: 3 maximum 3.4 ounce (100ml) bottles or less (by volume); 1 quart-sized, clear, plastic, zip-top bag; 1 bag per passenger in the screening bin. The one-quart bag per person limits the liquids each traveler can bring. If you're not checking bags, pack your carry-on carefully. Be prepared. Each time TSA searches a carry-on it slows down the line. Practicing 3-1-1 ensures a faster and easier checkpoint experience for all. (3-1-1 is for short trips. If in doubt, put liquids in checked luggage. Some countries are sterner!) DECLARE  larger liquids. Medications, baby formula and food, and breast milk are allowed in reasonable quantities exceeding three ounces and are not required to be in a zipped bag. Declare these for inspection at checkpoints. Officers are usually co-operative but may conduct additional screening. If you're planning to contribute an item to your host's party or dinner table, bring the ingredients and cook it there! * IF YOU HAVE  a favorite holiday food or beverage creation and it's at all "runny" or liquid, either ship it ahead, pack it carefully in checked baggage, or prepare it at your destination. Prohibited and likely to be confiscated are cranberry sauce, eggnog, salad dressings, dips, salsas, soups, gravies. And of course, guacamole! IF YOU  don't want your gift-wrapping tampered with, plan to wrap your presents when you arrive. If they look at all suspicious, you run the risk of having them unwrapped. YEARS AGO , a well dressed Japanese businessman gave me this tip leaving Tokyo: A lighter load makes a happy trip! "Get behind someone dressed like me.  I travel all the time.  I zip right through the line." He also cautioned me to avoid families, teens, children or people who look like neophytes to travel. My most memorable "quick zip through TSA" trips were with my mother, who had a pace maker in her last years.  On  several forays to Europe, we were all ushered through a special line with my mother.  She was patted down and "wanded" while we zipped through the x-ray machine and had our carry-ons briefly surveyed. For more on traveling with a disability or medical condition, go to   www.tsa.gov/traveler-information/travelers-disabilities-and-medical-conditions   Pointers for flying in comfort await! COMING SOON:   You're through TSA, you're on the plane, buckled in.  Now you're off to Europe -- or across the U.S., south to the Caribbean, lazing in the Greek Isles, Mexican Riviera or elsewhere.  We'll help you arrive feeling "sunny side up" rather than "over easy"!  Remember to explore, learn and live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

The Ahmanson Theatre in Los Angeles is in the artful Music Center complex. Danny DeVito and Judd Hirsch charmed a sell-out Ahmanson crowd for"The Sunshine Boys."  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A PLAY AT  the Ahmanson Theater in downtown Los Angeles is always an event! We dress up.  We  like matinees so we make an afternoon of it then carry the revels over into evening with dinner out or at a friend's home.   We revel in the productions, analyze the performances, have a glass or two of wine and linger outside, savoring the atmosphere -- recently vocal jazz buskers -- an a capella soloist and a fantastic trio singing "Stand By Me" and other classics. Danny DeVito played the Ahmanson recently, and, below, Cookie enjoys.  THE AHMANSON i s part of Center Theatre Group, which includes three venues:  The Ahmanson Theatre, Mark Taper Forum and Kirk Douglas Theatre.  The Ahmanson is big and appealing with a bucket load of fine seats.  Ours - in mid orchestra -- have been excellent for a variety of productions in the two years we've subscribed.  We've seen a brilliant production of Stephen Sondheim's "Follies," a snappy "Anything Goes," a stunning production of "Over the Rainbow," with Tony nominated Tracy Bennett channeling Judy Garland. We've enjoyed both drama and comedy with casts large and small.  Always we appreciate the venue. The Center Theatre Group's pretty space attracts theater goers to the Mark Taper or Ahmanson.  We just saw the season opener, "The Sunshine Boys" with Danny DeVito and Judd Hirsch.  It was the run's final performance, and brought the house down. THE AHMANSON  has variable seating and a proscenium stage, allowing capacity from 1,600 to 2,000.  Both small-cast productions and larger than life musicals can be accommodated in this versatile venue.  Unusual touring productions are also featured, including the upcoming "A Word or Two," crafted by the splendid actor Christopher Plummer. A theater-goer photographs the Ahmanson's lovely fountain and sculpture. OSCAR WINNER Plummer will star in his own personal homage to language written and arranged by Plummer and directed by Tony Award winner Des McAnuff at the Ahmanson. Christopher Plummer is coming! Plummer, who confesses to being “hooked on the intoxication of words,” spent much of his time growing up in Montreal reading Ben Jonson, George Bernard Shaw, Shakespeare, Rudyard Kipling, A.A. Milne, Lewis Carroll, Lord Byron, Dylan Thomas, W.H. Auden and Stephen Leacock and others. His take on these literary giants journeys from childhood to old age. I won't miss this opportunity to hear and see one of the great actors of our time.  This show will likely sell out, so book soon. (For more, go to CentereTheatreGroup.org or call 213 628-2772. SLATED FOR  the upcoming subscription season,  the Ahmanson's diverse slate includes "Porgy and Bess," "Peter and the Starcatcher" and "We Will Rock You." Next door, the Mark Taper Forum, with 739 seats, is also in the Music Center and part of the three-stage Center Theatre Group. The intimate Kirk Douglas theatre, with only 317 seats, is the third part of Center Theatre Group, located in downtown Culver City. The Fox is now the ABT. The once and former Fox, circa 1931. COMING UP : In Montana, the Alberta Bair Theater almost didn't exist. Now it's the region's largest performing arts venue.   The once grand Fox could have been a parking lot or yet another bank, but for a grassroots effort. That story, next up! Remember to explore, learn and live, and read us Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

CLIFF DWELLERS DANCE and TECHNO-STRETCH AS WE TRY TO ADVANCE BLOG SCHEDULE!                                                                                               STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER BUBBLY  from the vineyards of  Costa Brava, the equal of French champagne, at one-third the price...... Views to fall off a cliff for...... from our bird's eye view in Parador Aiguablava. (This world-class hotel proves the government CAN run something successfully, at least in Spain!) Salvador Dali lithos at every turn..... Keller's favorite anchovy-stuffed olives... ALL THIS  and more. We are trying to schedule blogs ahead preparing for a two-week cruise aboard Royal Caribbean's Serenade of the Seas, with touring, pampering, reading.  We have no idea if we're succeeding in peeling away the technical red tape. So we're letting you know that we're experimenting on you, while pondering why five-star hotels persist in keeping telephones by the toilet. Cookie and Keller at play, with more on their revels coming soon.  The view from their parador, at left, has them struggling to keep up with blogging!  They persist, though, with champagne. PLEASE BE  gentle with us, enjoy our newly Next post has tips on airport maneuvers. gleaned tips on airport check-in and outsmarting the TSA lines.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and send feedback as we continue our revels (and blogs) from the Salvador Dali Museum, our parador here in the far north  of Barcelona, and  a Catalan medley of enticing restaurants, bistros, roadside pubs, intriguing antique shops and hardware stores, vegetable markets and, oh, yes, cathedrals and places of culture! (Still searching for a voltage transformer, having forgotten our combined three in U.S.) We're posting Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

TRAVEL LIGHT: DON'T LUG BOTTLES OR TAKE WHAT YOU CAN EASILY BUY 'OVER THERE' Nearly everything you might forget can be easily purchased, usually cheaply, while on holiday. So don't stress. This ship stateroom may be furnished with duty free  beverages, so avoid bulky, heavy bottles in your baggage.  Pick up a bottle or two of wine at your destination. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER REMEMBER , the globe is shrinking with technology and travel advances.  You're not visiting a remote planet. You're probably going to Paris, Rome, the British Isles, Mexico, China, South America, the Caribbean, or to visit relatives or friends, possibly one of our delightful U.S. destinations. Maybe a cruise. ALL OF THESE places have markets, shops, convenience stores! Don't pack bottles of liquor when you can purchase duty free on the plane, or buy your wine on the ship or a supermarket. (Not at the hotel -- way too expensive.) Buy a wine package on the ship to save money.  They won't let you cart your own on board -- they want you to buy theirs! As you pack, think about each item you put in. Evaluate its usefulness and importance. Do you really need it? Can you pick it up there? As a trip ends, Cookie sorts, sifts, decides what to toss. Here, she'll give away a cheap cooler used for picnics.  * THE INCREDIBLE BULK.  If you forget something, you can buy nearly everything you might need -- from razor blades and tooth paste to cosmetics.  You'll pick up freebies from the hotels and ships -- shampoos, lotions, etc. Your bag will get heavier; don't load yourself down.  If you stick to one loosely packed Pullman per person for check-through, plus your carry-on (backpack for Keller with his laptop in the padded center), you won't be weighted down. Save room for small gifts -- coffee, tea, jam, cookies. Toss or give away small, junky, bulky "unnecessaries" you've collected before flying home. Buy one nice item for yourself -- a flat scarf is easy to pack but if you can't resist the fun pair of shoes on sale in Italy, have the store send them home. I've never failed to receive anything I've bought this way. Fake pearls, a compact but pretty top, a sport coat and tie dress Keller and Cookie up for a night on the town in Las Vegas. * AVOID TAKING  the family jewels.  Sure, you can use the hotel and ship safes, or check your valuables with the concierge, but why stress?  No one will care if you don't wear your Mikimoto pearls or your grandmother's diamond bracelet. Have fun.  Bring attractive costume jewelry and you won't agonize if you lose something. Never bring your favorite anything on a trip. *  COPY  YOUR PASSPORT,  visa, driver's license and other valuable documents.  Put them in a separate place from your carry-on original documents (inside a book or your laptop bag, somewhere you'll remember.)  Keller also uses his Droid Take a few tops out -- no one notices wardrobe repetition. to photograph our critical paperwork, including our airline confirmation numbers, cruise boarding documents and passport main pages. * DON'T DOUBLE UP.  Check with your traveling companion and don't duplicate items you can share --  tooth paste, deoderant, vitamins, pain relievers, etc. Again, it is essential to be able to carry your own stuff. Period.  You can't always get a porter in a train station. * ALL THAT OTHER STUFF .  I just looked at a bag that I still haven't unpacked from the last long trip -- nearly three weeks. Good packing makes a relaxed Cookie -- with enough stuff to look nice.  In it, I discovered items that were never used. I'd packed three pair of capri pants.  Two would have been adequate.  A little hair-curling kit was not use at all -- and it weighed two or three pounds.  (I had my hair done once cruising to Alaska and washed and blew dry it the other times in Seattle. Didn't need curlers.) If you have to sit on your bag to close it, take some stuff out! ON A RECENT  trip to Europe, I didn't need any of my electric plug converters and adapters.  Most of the nice hotels now accommodate American electronics.  If you do need a converter, the hotel will likely have one.  So the old adage of "packing, then taking half of the stuff out" might serve me well on the next trip. You'll sleep better with a lighter bag.  I swear by it! * BE RUTHLESS  with yourself.  Think, "Do I really need that extra black shell top?  Will anyone notice if I wear the same swimsuit to the beach or pool twice?  Must I really have three separate formal outfits for the ship's three formal nights? Big bulky sweatshirts and fluffy robes are not necessary.  If it's really cool, I borrow Keller's sweatshirt and he wears his jacket and sweater. And hotels and ships usually provide robes. NEXT : Wednesday, a tribute to violinist Robert Sandstrom, left, who mixed it up with jazz and swing, played first-violin symphonic scores, loved Bach, opera, Celtic and more. His memorial service was Monday in San Diego. Bravo, Bob. We miss you. COMING UP :  Dining on the road and not turning into the incredible bulk.  We offer tips on food and enjoying yourself, indulging without gaining tons of poundage. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Economize, pack light, think layers, develop a color theme STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER You'll want clothes that look stylish but don't weigh a ton. TELLING SOMEONE  what to pack is like telling college kids what they should take for first semester. They'll wear what they want, thank you very much. The point is to take clothes that make you comfortable,  that allow you to have fun, relax and feel properly turned out -- whether for fancy occasion or casual time. THERE ARE many styles, many methods of packing. Invent your own, remembering that it's important to be able to carry your stuff. You can't always get help at the train station, the car rental, or maneuvering out of the airport. Misha Minesinger looks "picture perfect" on the West Fork of the Stillwater River, fishing for trout in "smart casual." MY SVELTE  Atlanta sister Misha travels large. She dresses up to go fishing, and she always looks like a million bucks.  She checks a big bag and hoists a large carry-on.  She's also an inveterate shopper, and has been known to buy an extra empty bag to schlep stuff home. She likes her clothes and accoutrements. Once on a trip to Europe right after my husband Bruce, died, I packed so badly it was comical.  No worries. Misha had wardrobes for both of us -- including a beach day and a formal night at the Lido! ON THE OTHER  end, my exercise pal Laurie travels light. She and her husband, John, put what they need in a pair of backpacks and have adequate clothes for a week in San Francisco or a couple weeks abroad. By Laurie's own admission, she doesn't pack baubles and silks. And she'd have to borrow opera togs. Nora is sleeping inside the carrier, but Nick is having a look around. I'M SOMEWHERE  between these two opposite examples.  I like my clothes, but I limit myself to one large check-through Pullman, and a loosely packed carry-on. When I travel with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora are my carry-on, so I've learned to economize on "stuff." For a cruise, I pack a nice formal top but I no longer haul long formal gowns and sequined shoes, and Keller doesn't take tuxedo gear anymore.  (Those formal guy tux shoes and glittery girl heels are space hogs, and the black-tie gear gets worn only two or three times on a trip.) MOST CRUISE lines and even the opera houses in Prague, Milan and Vienna no longer insist on black tie.  Ladies can blend in shipboard or at the Bolshoi with a nice little classic black dress or skirt and top with fake jewelry. My grandmother called that her "drinking and praying" outfit. For the guys, a dark blazer or sport coat and one dress shirt and tie will work for "fancy." You're set. No one cares about your shoes. True story. Add caption * BASIC THEME.  Deciding on your attire really depends on what you do when you're there. Develop a theme before you go.  Do you consider yourself  "outdoorsy, active, casual" or "formal, fancy, elaborate" -- or like me, somewhere in between.  This little self-imposed categorization will help you craft a wardrobe that won't waste precious suitcase space. If you're hiking in Scotland, Spain or Switzerland, or sunning in the Caribbean or Greek Isles, you'll need little more than casual -- cottons, denims, wash-and-wear. Throw in a pretty top and shawl for dinners out. The "layer up" edict is time honored. Start a cruise or tour morning with slacks, shirt, sweater and light jacket tossed over your arm. Strip away the lawyers as the sun warms the Earth. * GET A  color scheme going, too -- blues and greens, beiges and fall colors, etc.  Mix and match your clothing within loose color guidelines -- including scarves, jewelry, hats, sweaters and other accents. You'll save on space and economize on volume. Keller is dressed for sailing, ready to lend a hand on deck.  * I INCLUDE  a pair of jeans, a turtleneck, two capri slacks, two or three lightweight tops or blouses, a dress jacket and nice skirt as part of my "uniform."  Keller packs five or six shirts and tops for a long trip: two short sleeve, two long, a Polo and sweat shirt.   Don't forget a rain coat and hat. Add a light sweater or wrap -- crucial on ships, trains and in theaters.  And we both like pockets. * SHOES, FOOTWEAR. As mentioned, these are space hogs, so I've pared myself down to three pair.  A sturdy pair of comfy walking shoes is essential for city tours, hikes, shore excursions or a sail or boat trip.  Add a basic black pair for "fancy" or "resort casual" for dinners or brunches, theater outings, receptions. A pair of sandals, comfy loafers or slippers suffice for lounging, going to the beach, hanging out. Guys can sometimes get by with two pair -- casual for day and dressier for evening. Next Wednesday's travel tips continue with shopping hints. * UNDERWEAR, ETC.  Take just enough underwear and socks for a week and plan to find a laundry once. If you're staying with friends or family, keeping clean clothes is easy. Ships have self-wash laundries and hotels and cruises offer laundry send-out. If you can afford it, let them to do the work. On a month-long Asia tour years ago with 11 other delegates from International Women for Understanding, an attorney friend taught me to wash out blouses and undies and squeeze them inside a towel before hanging them up. They'll be dry by morning. COMING UP : What else to pack?  Copy special documents,  get rid of the non-essentials, remember vitamins and plan to buy one unique gift for yourself -- so leave room for that!  Then dining well without doubling your dress size.  Remember to explore, learn, live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at:   www.whereiscookie.com

When in Rome -- as Keller and Cookie are here -- check out all your airline options to continue flying high. Do your homework, shop around, be assertive, talk to a human being when in distress   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER View from a small plane approaching landing in Medford, Oregon.  WITH TODAY'S  jittery economy, federal turmoil, erratic travel costs and wear and tear that travel takes on body and soul, it would be easier to just stay home. But we wouldn't learn.  We wouldn't explore, expand, adventure or have fun! We wouldn't have an opportunity to speak other languages, sample new cuisine, savor the differences and similarities of other cultures. SO TRAVEL  we will and travel we must.  Today, we begin a series designed to help you kick your travel methods up a notch. First, we concentrate on airfares and Low-hanging clouds and blue skies await near Olbia, Sardinia, Spain. airline tips.  Saturday, we'll look at hotels and rental cars.  Then we'll segue to tips on traveling abroad, with a look at money, phones and "travel apps." We've already offered pointers on traveling with pets and picking the perfect cruise for you! TODAY , airline and flying pointers: Whether you're traveling domestic or to Europe, be wary! * First, be in control and do your homework, so you aren't caught off guard when something goes wrong. If, for instance, the kiosk won't recognize your confirmation code, don't get shunted to the back of the longest line to check in with a human. Make a polite fuss. Get an agent's attention to move you up the line so you won't miss your flight, as a friend just did leaving LAX. Be  aggressive but not rude. * If you can, try to fly on Tuesday, Wednesday or Saturday, which are cheaper than higher-priced fly days of Monday, Friday and Sunday when business travelers and vacationers are leaving and returning.  Thursday varies. *  AIRLINES OFTEN  release sale fares on Tuesdays.  The cheapest time to shop for them is 3 p.m. Tuesday, Eastern Standard Time. * If your airline charges for seat assignments and you don't want to spend more for a "comfort" or "economy plus" or upgraded seat, wait until you check-in online -- 24 hours before your flight. Then the seat assignment is free. A frequent-flier friend sets his Cookie has logged nearly five million airline miles! Not quite as many as George Clooney's film character. phone calendar to remind him 24 hours before the flight and seldom has a problem getting an aisle or window, usually farther back. * SHOP AROUND .  I am loyal to Delta, because I travel internationally with Delta and her partners, using miles I rack up on domestic travel and my American Express card.  Also reference the major search sites:  Travelocity, Expedia and Orbitz. If you don't mind more than one stop, you can get a cheaper fare taking the milk run. You'll be surprised at the differences in fares. They vary widely, especially internationally. If you're using miles, best to work through the airline, even though you'll pay a service fee, usually $25.  The airlines can make your miles go farther with a little congenial push and a human being on the phone. Miami's skyline is a high-rise maze, just as intricate as navigating airlines. * TAKE TIME  to check fares a couple or three times throughout the day before you book.  Be careful about booking until you're sure you're ready.  Airlines can update fares several times a day and some may refund the difference if a fare goes down after you book.  But check first because if a fare goes down, you may be charged a "change" or "service" fee, which can be as high as $150.  Be careful about using your hard-earned miles. The 25,000-mile coach ticket isn't always available. * In the old days, airlines offered a bereavement or "crisis" fare. Those days are gone, but usually airlines will work with you for "best available fare" if you have a sudden death, illness, accident or other emergency.  Again, take the time to call a human being.  If you have miles saved, it might behoove you to use them for this special deal.  Again, check the options. The Las Vegas skyline features many fun hotels -- here New York,  New York, with the MGM Grand's Lion keeping watch at the right. * USING MILES . Airlines release "x" amount of seats for each category -- and the 25,000-mile coach seat quota may be filled.  I've paid as much as 60,000 miles for a short-notice ticket domestic ticket to San Diego from Billings.  Reviewing the situation of that under-stress booking, I'd have been better off to have saved those miles toward international travel and paid the cash price the airline wanted for the domestic ticket --  even though it was high. Weigh the options. * Tip for picking a TSA line. Never get behind a family, with all their child apparatus, or slow-moving people. Look for a businessman with a single carry-on and his shoes and computer already   in the tray. You'll zip through faster! COMING NEXT : Our travel tips continue with pointers on hotels and car rentals.  Then we offer advice on international travel, using apps and more. Past columns have focused on cruising tips (check Jan. 27, April 20 and April 27 posts) and travel with pets (check May 4, May 8 and July 13 blogs.) Remember to explore, learn and live. Visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

PLAN AHEAD, BUDGET, DON'T OVER-ORCHESTRATE, SHOP AND EAT LOCAL Fresh flowers for the hotel room are a must for Cookie -- here  she chooses at a Rome stall near the Vatican. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT'S EASY  to get tired on a long trip, no matter how exciting the destinations or events. You've worked hard for your vacation, you've done your homework. You've made certain you won't be financially strapped or physically and emotionally exhausted when you return home. A visit to the Alpenhof Lodge in Teton Village meant staying Saturday through Monday, to honor the rule. Here are a few antidotes to depression of the pocketbook and spirits while on holiday: *  SAVE and BUDGET.  I usually have three or four big trips on the books and several long weekends ahead, so I'm constantly saving and stashing money aside for travel.  I like to pay my first night's hotel when I book (it's easily refunded if you cancel within the given period) and I put something aside each month for travel.  If you do something for "extra money" -- in my case, playing piano at various venues a few nights a month -- make that your "travel boot."  Buy traveler's checks or begin accumulating Euros as far ahead as you can.  Even $25 a month can give you more money for more fun on your trip. *  THE TWO-NIGHT , three-day rule.  It's our own invention and we honor it!  We never spend less than three days and two nights in a place.  That way, we get to know the town or village and can truly savor the surroundings.  We also take a longer break in a three or four-week trip, about mid-point -- usually for five days.  It's a wonderful way to lift spirits, regroup, repack, rest and recharge. Use hotel resources to find to eateries -- here Pangea in Ashland, Oregon. * TREAT YOURSELF.   We always have fresh flowers in the room -- even a $5 bouquet can cheer the place and the hotel, inn or B&B will be glad to send up a vase. Or use the room service cream pitcher or coffee carafe if you're feeling improvisational. You can also dry a flower or two in a favorite travel book to take home for a pretty, memory-jogging bookmark. * DON'T BE SHY .  I have no problem asking questions, seeking advice, consulting others as I travel.  I am not embarrassed to be a tourist.  I've been one all my life and am proud of my curiosity, manners and global interests.  Your hotel concierge or desk clerk is an invaluable resource.  He or she can point you to restaurants, obtain difficult theater tickets, scare up a rental car and recommend off-beat sightseeing. A couple consults the check-in staff at Ashland Springs Hotel, for tips on the town. * Tipping.  I always leave something for the maid in Europe or anywhere abroad.  Remember special courtesies or service.  Europeans have a different attitude toward service.  It's a time honored profession and waiters are paid better.  Still, look to see if the gratuity is included, then act accordingly. * LEARN AT LEAST  a bit of the language. I have a couple dozen Berlitz language books, some of them As the suitcases are unpacked, evaluate the usefulness of their contents and pitch what you don't need! beautifully battered.  I write the date of each trip and it's a lovely memory.  I always take the appropriate language guides to my countries of destination.  Even a few words help transcend the culture gap and show you're willing to try.  My college French serves me well even in Paris, known for its contempt of foreigners who insist on English.  I've never met a Frenchman I didn't like. And I thank them all now for putting up with my lousy accent and appreciating my attempt in good spirit! (Sometimes they even answer in their native tongue -- that's high praise.) * Settle your bill the night before. You have time to look it over and correct any mistakes. * Eat and sleep where the locals do -- bistros, tavernas, government run paradors or pousadas -- to save money and discover unique places. COMING SOON :  We continue our travel tips series with pointers on packing.  There's a real art to it if you want to arrive and return relaxed, rejuvenated and organized!  We'll share essential elements to sane packing and a lighter, freer, happier you on the road!  Remember to explore, learn, live, and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at www.whereiscookie.com

If you want to be able to laze and relax once you get there, plan ahead.   PREP TIME BEFORE TRIP ALLOWS MORE TIME TO ENJOY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU PLAN  ahead for your hotel stay and car rental, you won't waste precious time on the road negotiating for a room or vehicle. It's wise to spend a couple days nailing down all the details for your lodging and transportation before you fly out of town or country. First, hotels:  Cookie toasts good planning in the lovely Altis Belem Hotel in  Lisbon. The hotel was booked months ahead. * MOST OF US  go on line to find room rates, but it's a good idea to call the hotel directly after you fine rates.  Ask for a discount.  The websites often tout "lowest price" because they're selling themselves.  I've often been given a discount by hauling out all my memberships:  AARP, AAA, and mentioning my frequent business travel.  You may qualify for a corporate or senior rate.  Ask. Most hotels do a room inventory that expires each night, so you might call at a time when you can save $15 or $20. Don't call the chain's toll-free number.  Call the individual property. * I HAVE  a friend who swears by Priceline's Name Your Own Price auction.  Another friend loves TheBiddingTraveler.com .  It provides advice for manual bidding and will submit bids on your behalf.  You enter a "lowball" bid and a "final offer" then its AutoBid begins bidding with your lowest Cookie meets a old friend, Lucilla, a noted historian, at the Rome airport.  offer, automatically raising your bid in increments until one is accepted or the highest offer is rejected. * WE'VE ALSO booked short trips with Groupon Getaways, Overstock's Vacations, Yuupon and Living Social.  All offer deals but many are not as unique or enticing as advertised.  Last year we booked a long weekend in Mexico through Groupon then had to cancel three weeks out, well within the terms of the initial agreement.  It took three months and endless faxing and phoning to get the $750 credited back to our card, so be sure you know when you want to go and hope you don't have an emergency that necessitates cancelling.  Print out all your documentation as you go, and keep good records. Keller prepares to take the wheel in Spain. * WATCH OUT for short redemption periods. Be wary.   Usually they are up to a year, but I lost nearly $800 once booking a sweet sounding five-day trip to Hawaii.  The redemption window was only six months, and I hadn't paid proper attention. When I went to confirm actual dates, the "bargain" had expired. If you don't think you'll go for awhile -- or don't know when you might be able to take advantage of "the bargain," perhaps it is not worth risking. * There are fun aps for hotel booking.  One is called Hotel Tonight, so if you have a smartphone, you can find the name of the hotel before you buy.  Sometimes you can land good last-minute rates, too, by calling the hotel after the 24-hour cancelation.  The no-show people who don't want to get charged for the night will have called to release their rooms. * CONSIDER  upgrading to a larger room especially if you're traveling with a family.  Sometimes you can get a much larger space -- a corner room or suite -- rather than booking a second room.  An upgrade might also offer the incentive of a hot tub or complimentary breakfast, and may cost only $20 or $30 more. Now, for car tips: Key Largo hotels and condos offer plenty of activity in nearby environs.  * When possible, rent other than at the airport.  It's often cheaper in a downtown or suburban location. Sometimes airports tack on extra fees. Again, check it out first. * If you arrive in the evening and are planning to travel only to your hotel the first night, call the hotel shuttle to get yourself there for just the driver's tip, and save an extra day's car rental fee. * Many of the big car rental companies offer an on-line discount for paying ahead. * Be careful about renting a car in one city and dropping off in another. Establish the rate at the beginning to avoid penalty fees.  Cookie's got the keys for a rental car in Sardinia. Off to explore! * IF YOU'RE  renting for four or five days, check the weekly rate.  It is often cheaper than the daily rate times four or five. * Don't be afraid of renting a car in Europe or elsewhere abroad.  We've done it the past five years -- always with success.  Interestingly, European rental car rates have been cheaper than domestic for us, plus you get the fun of driving at your own pace in an exotic location. COMING WEDNESDAY:   We continue our travel tips with a look at foreign travel and how to make the most of your time abroad -- packing, picnics, phone apps, paradors and more! Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at:   www.whereiscookie.com