Costa Brava Hideaway: Discover Parador de Aiguablava and Northeastern Spain's Charms

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

"The Carpe Diem Kids"

The Costa Brava offers spectacular scenery, and there's no better view than at a recently renovated parador.

Few hotels match the spectacular setting of Parador de Aiguablava, where dramatic cliffs meet the turquoise waters of Spain's Costa Brava. From a gorgeous hilltop location with sweeping sea views, travelers find easy access to quiet beaches and picturesque fishing villages such as Peratallada and Tamariu. The place also offers scenic coastal walking paths and terrific food. Whether you're seeking relaxation, photography or memorable day trips, this corner of northeastern Spain offers an authentic coastal experience to savor.

Parador Aiguablava is recently remodeled and features a sunlit pine-lined terrace with lounge chairs leading to the modern white resort hotel, a showpiece on the Costa Brava.

You'll find bubbly from its vineyards, the equal of French champagne, at one-third the price. You'll find views to write home about, and at this world-class hotel, you'll see that the government CAN run something successfully, at least in Spain!

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It was a return visit to experience the recently renovated parador, a stunning four-star clifftop hotel in Begur, Spain, at Carrer Platja d'Aiguablava. It features a seasonal outdoor pool, fitness center, sauna and the acclaimed Mar i Vent restaurant.

We awakened to gentle waves and soft winds on lush pine forests outside our balcony, high on the Punta d'es Muts cliffs, in the crown jewel of Spain’s rugged coastline. It was a perfect coastal getaway.

Situated in the heart of Catalonia, Costa Brava is more than a stretch of sand; it’s a living painting of dramatic rocky coves, whitewashed villages and deep blue Mediterranean waters. Whether sipping local Empordà wine on a sunny terrace or exploring charming centuries-old villages, the region demands a slow, mindful approach.

Aiguablava's sunny coastal coves on the Mediterranean's blue waters make a wonderful beach hike with forested hills and lovely pine trees, a pleasant outing from the parador.

Our adventure began at the parador itself. We'd stayed there a decade ago and found its "redo" makes it even more beautiful than we remembered. It's a 1960s clifftop retreat blending retro-chic furnishings with modern spaces.

We left our contemporary room and wandered down to Platja Fonda for a morning stroll beside crystalline waters. Others swam while we just wet our toes. Back at the parador, guests relaxed by the pool and in the spa with a sauna and another pool overlooking the sea.

We wanted to explore, so we donned walking shoes to hit the Camí de Ronda, ancient coastal paths along the rugged coastline, guiding trekkers to stunning vantage points.

Peratallada and Begur are near the parador and offer beautiful old buildings, lovely in the sun and fun road trips for seeing Costa Brava's beauty.

Each day, we drove somewhere, with help from our concierge. A few kilometers inland, we discovered the historic town of Begur. Crowned by an imposing castle, the town is famous for colorful indiano architecture. These grandly ostentatious homes were built by Spaniards who made their fortunes in Cuba in the 19th century. We stroll the cobblestone streets, grabbed a bite at a local tapas bar, and booked a table at the Hotel Aiguaclara. 

Salvador Dali's home in Cadaques is a picturesque merging of several smaller homes he and his wife Gala purchased and artfully consolidated. Tours capture the artist's eccentricities and love of beauty.

No trip to the Costa Brava is complete without visiting Cadaqués. Known for its romantic, whitewashed alleys and artistic heritage, this iconic harbor village once captured the heart of Salvador Dalí. The tour is fascinating -- revealing the artist's eccentricities and artistic gifts. We made another scenic day trip to the Cap de Creus Natural Park nearby to visit the lighthouse and enjoy appetizers in its striking cliffside restaurant.

Medieval buildings and magical lighting greet tourists who venture to Peratallada, crowded in summer but virtually deserted except for locals in late autumn and winter months. Temperatures are often still lovely.

For a touch of medieval magic, we ventured to Peratallada. Walking through the stone walls of this ancient, well-preserved village is like stepping into a fairy tale. Nature and culture collide just an hour north of the Parador at the ruins of Empúries, where we gazed over ancient Greek and Roman artifacts with the sea in the background. Back near the Parador, we cooled off at the oasis of the Cap Roig Botanical Gardens in Calella de Palafrugell, a spectacular cliffside garden that hosts a world-renowned summer music festival.

An award-winning meal at Parador Aiguablava offers seafood and wine on a balcony table overlooking the calm waters of the Mediterranean.

With its unparalleled cliffside views, world-class Catalan gastronomy, and proximity to the region's best must-sees, Parador de Aiguablava is more than just a place to sleep. It is the ultimate balcony over the Mediterranean, inviting us to relax and savor the vibrant spirit of the Costa Brava

We had a goal in mind on this trip -- to ditch our usual frenetic schedule and let each day unfold. We wanted to find local spots and nearby adventures. So we offer these tips:

Cookie ventures up an ancient street in search of a bakery, on a day trip from the parador

• Explore Local Bakeries: Visit charming bakeries in towns like Tossa de Mar and Calella de Palafrugell for authentic treats. We became addicted to the delectable buttery sobaos pasiegos, dense, moist, rectangular pastries similar to pound cakes or muffins and infused with butter and lemon. We also loved creamy quesada, sweet Asturian casadiellas and regional variations of bizcocho  (de;ocopis sponge cake), sold at local panaderías.

•  Check Out Food Markets: We made daily stops at our favorite local market, Mercat de Girona, where we loaded up on olives -- many choices -- cheese, freshly baked still warm cookies and local specialties.

• Seek Coastal Cafés: We had leisurely lunches with splendid views at seaside cafés. A favorite place was Lloret de Mar. We also discovered a gem, Restaurant la Roca, in Peratallada, just a 14-minute drive -- less than 6 miles -- from Begur. A charming spot in a historic setting, it specializes in traditional Catalan cuisine, grilled meats, and local stews. It's a great find because it serves typical Mediterranean and Spanish fare from brunch to late-night, with terrific variety, vegetarian and Vegan options.

A weathered sign on stone wall points the way to Restaurant La Roca, a popular place featuring local and Catalan cuisine in Spain's Costa Brava.

• Join a Food Tour: We took a guided food tour to find the best spots and local delicacies.

• Capture the Moment: Take lots of photos of your favorite finds against the stunning Costa Brava backdrop.

• Ask Locals and Your Hotel Concierge for Recommendations: Engage with locals for hidden gems that may not be in tourist guides.

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Smiling Keller and Cookie in front of the Petronas Twin Towers, backed by clouds in Kuala Lumpur

Coming Up: A journey to Malaysia, Thailand and the exotic locales of Indonesia, the world’s largest archipelago. Our tour blends unmatched natural beauty with rich cultural heritage. from busy cities and quaint villages to the volcanic majesty of Java’s Mount Bromo and ancient shrines like Borobudur, we continue to Komodo National Park and Raja Ampat, then on to Australia. Follow along for more adventures and travel inspiration at WhereIsCookie.com Remember to explore, learn and live, and send feedback as we continue our reports on cruising, bistros, roadside pubs, intriguing antique shops, museums, hardware stores, vegetable markets, cathedrals and other places of culture! If Costa Brava sparks your wanderlust, there’s more waiting for you to explore. Check out many other travel stories and inspiration at WhereIsCookie.com