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  • Vancouver: bustling city, multiple attractions: Splendid museum has Canada's finest

    The work of Emily Carr, a well known Canadian artist, is on display in a lovely space. Below left, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pose in the imaginative museum. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" NATIVE ART, ASIAN IMAGERY, VISITOR INVOLVEMENT ARE HIGHLIGHTS AT ONE OF CANADA'S FINEST MUSEUMS Vancouver -- bustling city, multiple attractions. It's alive with art, music, commerce, fine food and nearby nature. And its Art Gallery is as vast and varied as the country. The Gallery (VAG), has a long history, approaching its centennial. Established in 1931, it is western Canada's largest public art museum and features a vast and varied collection of over 12,000 works by local, national, and international artists . IT LOOKS LIKE a government building -- with its imposing facade and ornate architecture. That's because it was a Vancouver's provincial courthouse for many years. The gallery is a repurposed 19th-century building in downtown Vancouver. As fitting its population (nearly 40 per cent Chinese, Filipino and Southeast Asian), the gallery places special emphasis on art from the Asia Pacific region and Indigenous artists. Vancouver -- bustling, busy city, with museum and more attractions WE SPENT an engaging afternoon in the Vancouver museum gallery, admiring each of the nicely curated exhibitions. Coming from a family of ceramists, I was particularly enchanted by "Written in Clay: From the John David Lawrence Collection." It presents a history of ceramics created in British Columbia, told through the eyes of Lawrence. His finely crafted show represents years of collecting unique pottery -- from friends, aspiring artists and well known ceramists. The artistic friendships, shared histories and local legacies make an intriguing show and represent decades of collecting by the Vermont born, musically immersed Lawrence. He lived in San Francisco, studied at Boston University's School of Fine Arts and has many U.S. connections as well as a legacy of Canadian associations. ANOTHER OF the eye-catching exhibits features the work of well known Canadian artist Emily Carr. Her nature images -- sometimes haunting, always provocative -- and she drew many of her ideas from the monumental art and villages of the First Nations and the landscapes of British Columbia. The show attracted a large group of college art students the afternoon we visited. Cookie tries her hand at a watercolor in large room used for hands on activities. Colorful sculpture inspired by native imagery caught the eye of Bruce Keller UP NEXT: Vancouver is a bustling, busy city, best enjoyed by Big Bus. Besides museum attractions, there is more to explore. We're bus tour junkies. Come with us to explore the neighborhoods, parks and streets of one of Canada's most vibrant cities. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more. We're moving 13 years of work a creating a new, exciting website, so thanks for your patience during this complicated transition.

  • Sail on Jada a delightful yacht - San Diego's jewel for a magical time

    The writer and photographer say "ship ahoy, mates" on a Jada lark. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Many people dream of owning their own yacht. Few accomplish that fantasy. For Carole Noska the dream became a reality a few years ago when she and a couple partners purchased the classic yawl, Jada. "She needed a lot of love but we saw the potential," says Noska. "Originally, we planned to renovate her and flip her."  But the sprightly sailor with a background in marketing and public relations changed her mind. "Slowly, I came to realize we couldn't sell her.  We had to share her. She's just something special." Share Jada is exactly what Noska does, through "Sail on Jada!" a promotion which offers the gorgeous 1938 boat for afternoons or evenings of gorgeous sailing complete with snacks, energetic commentary, and a lovely teak and oak interior up and down -- plus the Jada's beautiful interior is vintage design, lovingly restored. convenience of a bathroom should you need it. All this and smooth sailing -- she's built for comfort and glides easily through San Diego's waters. For Noska, it's a labor of love.  After sinking a hefty six figures into the boat's loving renovation, she couldn't part with her. (It would cost more than $2 million to recreate the Jada from ground up today.)  So the former marketer and public relations specialist  decided to try to do what she deeply loves -- and maybe make a bit of a living. "I won't be getting rich," she says, "but this is something that gives me great pleasure.  I love people and sharing this magnificent vessel. Everything about Jada is ship shape! During a decade at Salk Institute for Biological Studies, Noska honed her love of the ocean. She comes alive on the water.  "I love it. The ocean centers me," she says, offering a tray of tasty appetizers to a dozen relaxed tourists. "It would be a shame to not have people enjoy Jada along with me." Jada, a 65 foot Phillip Rhodes yawl, attracts waves and cheers and applause as she sails out of San Diego Bay under the guidance of capable captain and historian David Berg. With her vintage classic look and sleek transit of the seas, Jada is the stuff of postcards. Part of the pleasure of Jada is the ambiance and good will aboard. "She takes people back in time," says Noska. "We provide an afternoon that harkens to another time.  It's romantic, adventurous and people come back again and again." We spent a recent delightful afternoon on Jada, enjoying the commentary provided by Noska's longtime friend and collaborator who also captains the boat.  "He knows the city and the ocean like nobody's business." Indeed.  We learned about the Coronado Bridge and the habits of seals, architecture and sailing history, ethnic composition and when to spot whales, all offerred with intelligence and humor. Noska knows and loves San Diego and the ocean, too, and offers a pleasant complement to her collaborator. As the boat sails smoothly around San Diego, Noska visits with the passengers, giving her own  casual and insightful commentary.  Her presence is a delight -- she's part social director, part caterer, part tour guide.  These talents provide a relaxing backdrop for a three or four-hour sail, as guests mingle, relax on comfy cushions and let the wind spark the imagination.   Carole Noska plays tour guide photographer, first mate and caterer. Noska provides hors d'oeuvres, including cheeses, crackers, fruit and hummus, along with wine and beer, soft drinks, iced tea, juices, bottled water and more. Guests may bring picnics or special treats if they like, but goodies are included in the price, which varies depending on the outing. Noska stresses that she is not cultivating a "party-hearty" crowd; rather, she is courting civilized, interested sailing buffs and tourists looking for a fun, educational and refreshingly different option on the water. Towards the end of the sail, Noska displays her theatrical bent, bringing out a box of nautical hats including captains caps and piratical head gear.  Passing her hats around the crowd, like a roving minstrel, she encouraged us to indulge our fantasies about life on the water. Everyone took a hat and soon the boat sported a surplus of captains, pirates and first mates! Noska's grace, hospitality and memory (she knows everyone's name within the first 20 minutes on board) endear her to the clientele. She cultivates a faithful group of regulars and locals.  We met Argh! Cookie and Keller play pirate. several, including a married couple and two girlfriends, on our afternoon outing. Ages ranged from teens to seniors. "It has to be the most relaxing time we could spend on the water," said Cassie, who came on board Jada with her friend, Linda, for the fourth or fifth time. Jada has been used for birthday and anniversary parties, family reunions, team building meetings, casual working lunches, reward and incentive programs, whale watching and several memorable weddings. Jada has also hosted memorials and burials at sea, with families bringing their loved ones' ashes for a final communion with the sea the departed held dear. Like its owner, Jada is versatile -- name your event and Noska can creatively arrange it.  She is available for private and corporate charters and has a regular weekend schedule for tourists and short-notice bookings. And in future weeks, take a look at Montana wildflowers, a bang-up Big Sky Fourth of July, San Diego's gliding port, the upcoming season at San Diego Repertory Theater and much more. As summer continues, we'll head north to Alaska, give advice on traveling with pets and offer tips on making the most of your precious time touring Europe. All on our Wednesday and Saturday posts at: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Queen Mary 2 Dog Kennels: Pampered pooches cross the Atlantic in style

    DOGS AND CATS CROSS THE POND IN COMFORT WITH PAMPERING AND A CERTIFICATE TO PROVE THAT EVERY PET IS A TRUE SAILOR  Callie and Ryan Regan love the experience with kennel master Cruz and their treasured doggie Remly. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" A DOG'S LIFE is a good life aboard Cunard Line's Queen Mary 2's dog kennels. With 24 cozy kennels and a full-time kennel master to look after their every need, canine and feline passengers travel as comfortably as their human counterparts. They have treats and walks, comfy beds, toys and individual menus catered to each dog's needs.  So they dine like lords and ladies aboard this beautiful ship, the only one that accepts dogs other than service animals. For many pet owners, it's the preferred way to cross the Atlantic. The leisurely one-week crossing allows both pet and "parents" to enjoy a slow transition to another continent, without being subjected to jet lag or, in a pet's case, the hold of an airplane. Owners may visit their dogs and spend time with them on the kennel's decks. WE SPENT a delightful morning with QM kennel master Oliver Cruz, who had his hands full with 20 dogs and two cats on our recent westbound crossing from Southampton. He greeted us on deck 12, where a large, pristine space is dedicated to four-legged passengers and their owners. The pleasant, spotless area has both inside and outside spaces. Pet owners can visit and walk their fur babies, assist in feeding them if they like and take them into the sunshine for one-on-one time, while they read, soak up the sun or check messages. At appointed times, other passengers can come take a peek, too. Years ago, I wrote a story on the Queen Elizabeth 2's kennels, which were seldom advertised and always booked well in advance. The space featured a miniature Hyde Park, with a faux tree and fire hydrant.  QM2 has a red hydrant as well. Uniformed QM2 porters walk the dogs each day Queen Mary's kennels are popular. Cruz said. "Some people book a year or more in advance, and we recommend that," he added. Kennel slots fill up quickly -- even before the ship's coveted suites. WHO TAKES his dog on a ship? Plenty of people,  Cruz said. "People moving from one country to the other like the ease and comfort of taking a beloved pet on a ship," he said. That enhances the owner's journey and assures the pet isn't traumatized by the uncertainties of air travel. Other travelers simply want to have their pet with them while traveling. ONE CHICAGO couple, Callie and Ryan Regan, love the experience and say they wouldn't take their treasured doggie Remly across the pond any other way. "We took him on Queen Mary a year ago when we left the states for a job in England," Ryan said. "He was so spoiled after that he wouldn't eat his regular food for a couple days." Dog lover and QM2 kennel master Oliver Cruz, is hands on in daily interaction with each canine passenger. They are carefully tended. Cookie and Keller on the top deck, after a visit with dog owners and the kennel master. Now, returning to the U.S., Remly adjusted easily to the ship, they said. He enjoys his spacious kennel, comfy bed and kibble laced with pieces of steak. Cruz added that pet owners can organize their dog's food and can even provide their own if they like. He and his assistant accommodate special needs -- vitamins, etc. -- and monitor pets' "doggy do" to check for any signs that the pet is not well. "So owners don't pick up after their pups," he said. "We do that." AMONG PAMPERED  four-legged passengers were a border collie, an American bull dog, a German shepherd, a Jack Russell terrier, a springer spaniel, a long-haired chihuahua and two contented cats, minority among the 19 dog breeds on board. Pets are accepted on all Transatlantic crossings, except the first and last crossings of the year. Availability is limited, so pet owners are advised to book well in advance. The cost of transportation will be given at the time of booking, but will likely range between $800 and $1,000 USD. Pet owners must supply up to date vaccinations and records to prove their dogs and cats are healthy. Forms are provided by Cunard. PHILIPINO BORN  Cruz has been QM2's kennel master for 14 years, and is a lifelong animal lover with 10 cats, 8 dogs, turtles, fish and other members of the menagerie. Kennel master Oliver Cruz presents a"crossing certificate" for each pet. His children include son Christian, who is grooming to replace Cruz when he retires "way down the road." More info or to book a cruise for you or your pet: www.cunard.com Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers cross the Atlantic from Florida, on board Norwegian Cruise Line's Getaway. The veteran cruisers enjoy this mode of travel and share its advantages next week. UP NEXT:  We're singing the praises of travel for the next few weeks. Highlights of favorite trips will give tips and encourage readers to book that longed for  trip, arrange the cruise or camping trip, take that drive to the cousins you've long wanted to see. Our credo is "enjoy the summer," remembering that time is fleeting for us all.  "Carpe diem" is our byword as we explore the glories of travel, exploring the Caribbean and Mediterranean, and enjoying an Atlantic crossing on the world's most famous authentic ocean liner, Queen Mary 2.

  • Interlude a vintage sailing gaff rigged cat ketch

    The Interlude on a happy outing in Mission Bay in this Bruce Keller photo.     Hark, now hear the sailors cry           smell the sea and feel the sky let your soul and spirit fly                  --Van Morrison A floating piece of San Diego history is in danger of sinking. Interlude, a beautiful classic wooden boat, long cared for and housed near Mission Bay Aquatic Center, needs money and man hours to restore and maintain her. Without those, her sailing days are over.  So a group of sailing buddies who have known and loved the boat for more than 40 years, is rallying to draw attention to her plight. It's been a while since the classic vessel, Interlude, took to the sea.  The historic boat is in desperate need of money and restoration. --Bruce  Keller photo The 1939 gaff-rigged cat-ketch has delighted hundreds of faculty, students and the public through its long tenure with the Mission Bay Aquatic Center (MBAC).   The center, backed by the Associated Students of San Diego State University and Campus Recreation of University of California San Diego, has kept the classic boat afloat since its donation in 1972.  But it looks as if the Center's two sponsoring organizations are unwilling to continue subsidizing Interlude and her maintenance.      Enter friends of Interlude, a far-flung group of sailing buddies whose connection to the classic boat goes back decades.  Sailors Bruce Keller and Brad Smith, longtime friends and former colleagues at MBAC, believe that without imminent help, Interlude could be junked. If she were retired from the water, she could be cut up and discarded, losing her historic place in San Diego's heart and history.      The two old friends developed the Aquatic Center's water-ski program in the early 1970s. Along with several dozen others, they have maintained their friendship and loyalty to Interlude.      You may have seen this beautiful boat and not known her history and significance. I didn't either, until Keller, my partner and one of Interlude's many devoted "captains," invited me for a sail a couple years ago.  I had the privilege of spending a glorious day on her during a weekend reunion of Aquatic Center faculty.  The sentimental weekend represented, sadly, one of  Interlude's last outings on Mission Bay.      What a thrill to sail in her! As a cat-ketch, she is rigged as both a catboat and a ketch with a larger mast stepped at the very bow and a smaller mast further aft.  This makes her a striking sight as the wind catches her sails and she moves gracefully through the water.  Her gleaming oak and spruce caught the sun as we lucky sailors relaxed in the spring sun, an occasional spray of salt water gently caressing our heads and faces.  As one mature Interlude fan recalled, "You can sail Interlude dressed casually or gussied up in your nicest clothes.  On Interlude, you always feel you are part of something special."      At sea, the Interlude's beauty attracts attention.  There are probably less than 10 such sleek, unique boats on the entire West Coast. Through the decades, most recently the winter of 2009-2010, volunteers and former MBAC staff have put hundred hours of work into shoring up the beloved boat.  But her vintage 23-foot wooden hull requires continuing maintenance for, like any grand dame, she is aging. As Interlude's needs increase, do does the need for funds and labor.  The question is how to generate those twin needs. Bruce Keller and many others have sailed in, helped maintain, and loved the 1939 Interlude and hope to save her.  --  Christene  Meyers photo      Interlude has been kept afloat since she was  donated in 1972 but Smith and Keller estimate that her needs now include at least $30,000 in repairs and $3,000 in maintenance.      She also needs insurance coverage and someone to commit to overseeing her care.      At the moment, Interlude is a sad sight, resting under a blue covering smeared with seagull droppings.  She needs lots of TLC to get her up and running and on her way to reclaiming her regal past.      Lovers of Interlude would like to see her hauled out soon and taken to repair (possibly in the yard of one of the sailing group who loves her and is "repair savvy"). They hope restoration will begin before deferred maintenance takes a larger toll.     Says Keller, "It would be a shame to lose her.  With her beauty and unique heritage, she's a treasure to the city and the world of sailing."  Keller and others with long ties to the Aquatic Center are phoning and e-mailing in hopes of establishing a non-profit foundation and fund-raising endeavor for Interlude.     The two old friends and others hope that someone with a love of sailing and vintage vessels might come forth, someone with deep pockets.  Meanwhile, they are exploring options.      MBAC is the world's largest instructional waterfront facility. Last year over 15,000 participants enjoyed  wakeboarding, sailing, surfing, stand up paddling, waterskiing, rowing, kayaking, and windsurfing.      Surely, there is someone out there to see that Interlude maintains its place in San Diego sailing lore. If you can help, contact Bruce Keller at 858 437-4777. COMING SOON, a pair of Valentines: "The Kiss" sculpture returns to San Diego and an unique mother and sister are remembered with love.

  • Alcatraz Island Tour Guide: Why Visiting San Francisco’s Famous Prison Is a Must-Do Experience

    Behind bars: Keller tours prison. Story By CHRISTENE MEYERS Photos By BRUCE KELLER There’s something undeniably captivating about stepping onto Alcatraz Island, a place where history feels alive in every weathered wall and echoing corridor. The adventure begins with a ferry ride across San Francisco Bay , offering sweeping views of the city skyline, the Golden Gate Bridge , and the salty breeze that sets the tone for what’s ahead. Once on the island, the self-guided audio tour takes you deep inside the infamous prison that once held some of America’s most notorious criminals, blending powerful storytelling with real voices from former guards and inmates. It’s eerie, fascinating, and surprisingly beautiful all at once—making it a must-see experience for anyone visiting San Francisco. Who knew that Burt Lancaster's "Bird Man" character never tended his feathered friends on Alcatraz? That's the stuff of movies.  The famous, Oscar winning performance by the great actor told the story of Robert Stroud who actually tended his birds at Leavenworth, not on a remote island off the picturesque city of San Francisco.  An eccentric, not particularly pleasant man (according to our guides), Stroud had murdered a man before he was transferred to Alcatraz in 1942.  Apparently his hobby was getting out of control.  He was never allowed to pursue his passion in California. Ah, that's the stuff of movies, though. The island of Alcatraz lives on as thousands learn history of its tenure as a prison and now a bird sanctuary, home to gorgeous iris and many other blooms with stunning views of San Francisco. Inmates could view the city, a symbol of the pleasures they could not have as prisoners. Because "The Bird Man of Alcatraz" had a catchy sound, that became the movie's title, despite the fact that Stroud was never allowed to tend birds on the island. That film, though, continues to draw folks to the beauty, solitude and history of this little island a mile from San Francisco. The prison's water tower still sports writing from the Indian take-over of 1969 which lasted 19 months. We recently played tourist to take it all in. Besides the "Bird Man" trivia, here are a few "did you know" tidbits we discovered on our pleasant day there: *The island's history goes back to native people, but record keeping shows it was purchased by California from Mexico in 1847.  Its prison status dates to the Civil War when 11 soldiers arrived. Soldiers convicted of desertion, theft, assault, rape and murder were also sent to Alcatraz, along with the crew of a Confederate ship. Sadly, Alcatraz was also a place of incarceration for Hopi, Apache and Modoc Indians captured during the Indian wars, and military convicts were sent there during the Spanish-American War. The warden's family lived in this large home which is kept for touring. *The Alcatraz of more recent times came about after the 1930s Great Depression when the government was looking for a high-profile, maximum-security facility. Al Capone did time there, from 1934 to 1938.  He was transferred to a medical prison facility after a few fist fights with other inmates. Eight prisoners were murdered by other inmates and five committed suicide. *Alcatraz inmates numbered a total of 1,545.  Besides Capone and "Birdman," a few other notorious fellas did time there:  Doc Barker, Machine Gun Kelly and Creepy Karpis for three. The island was a federal penitentiary for 29 years during which time 36 prisoners tried to escape.  All but five were I nmates and families worked together to landscape Alcatraz. Now thousands of tourists enjoy. recaptured.  Three were unaccounted for and may have survived. Their June 1962 escape was immortalized in the movie, "Escape from Alcatraz" with Clint Eastwood. *An average of 260 bad guys were housed in the four cell blocks, with a high of 320 prisoners. Unruly inmates were sent to D block, whose 42 cells were known as the Isolation Unit. We toured the entire complex and heard many stories! *Some of the correctional officers and their families stayed on the island. The warden and his wife and family lived in a large house near the prison building and never locked their doors! Some of the families grew lovely gardens which are still kept up today.  A few of the prisoners had green thumbs, too, and were allowed to contribute to the beautification. There were no women prisoners or guards. *Besides the famous films, Alcatraz came to the public eye through the 1969-70 occupation by activists. A small group landed on the island the claimed it in the name of  "Indians of All Tribes."  The occupation followed, lasted 19 months. Interestingly, the National Park Service has kept some of the signs and banners up, dutifully noting the occupation and its symbolism. Birds are protected on Alcatraz and have no natural predators. Here a pair of gulls appear to be mating. *The gardens and birds of Alcatraz fascinated us as much as the guard towers and escape lore. We saw hundreds of birds, including mating gull and heron, cormorants, hawks and hummingbirds. Tide pools are home to crabs, sea stars and other marine animals. *Alcatraz can be enjoyed at your leisure with many ferry departures and returns nearly each day. It's part of  the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy. You'll take a short, pretty ferry ride from Pier 33 Alcatraz Landing. The ticket includes a well done audio tour, lectures and plenty of friendly guides to answer questions. www.alcatrazcruises.com   415 981-7625. COMING SATURDAY: A contest! Sign up for our blog at www.whereiscookie.com and make a comment, including your suggestion for a future travel column. We'll give a first-edition autographed book of poems by the late poet Bruce Kemp Meyers to the winning suggestion.  And we continue our exploration of the great city of San Diego with a look at the hip pleasures of Hotel Diva, Union Square, a little known hike to Coit Tower and a Hornblower cruise. The hotel's hip art, location in downtown San Francisco, amenities, friendly staff and dog-welcoming service make it an appealing hotel for Keller, Cookie and yorkies Nick and Nora. So our exploration of one of the world's great cities continues, complete with the painted heart left in San Francisco by singer Tony Bennett.  Remember to explore, learn and live, at whereiscookie.com

  • Eureka's bustling waterfront on Humboldt Bay: Madaket ferry ride recalls earlier days

    California's historic ferry Madaket  is the last of seven ferries on Humboldt Bay, a relic of the waterfront heyday of Eureka, Calif. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers aboard the Madaket, for a cruise around historic Humboldt Bay. HUMBOLDT BAY'S HEYDAY COMES ALIVE WITH COLORFUL COMMENTARY, INTERESTING SIGHTS ABOARD HISTORIC VESSEL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" IN DAYS OF YORE,  ferries were critical to transporting the people of Humboldt Bay. They serviced both the boats and businesses along the waterfront as the town's fishing and lumbering industries exploded in a building boom. Libby Tonning goes by the moniker "Captain Zippo" and acts as both able skipper and informed tour guide. Eureka's bustling waterfront, Humboldt Bay and Madaket THE LONG,  sheltered bay with its narrow entrance was obscured by sand bars extending out farther than normal.  Thus explorer Juan Cabrillo and other adventurers overlooked it in their explorations of the California coast. Today, the last of seven ferries still transits the waters. The lovingly preserved California historic ferry Madaket is piloted by a self-described "surfer nerd'' who likes to be called Zippo, a nickname bestowed by her boss, a commercial tugboat captain. WE SET off with Captain Zippo and other passengers, including a family and a couple locals who make the nostalgic journey each year.  On a glorious autumn day, we pulled away from the Humboldt dock, chugging north into one of the most pristine bays on the west coast, perhaps in all the United States. Because few ferries remain to remind us of the glory days, it was a special treat. The Madaket was built in 1910 and is one of the last reminders of Eureka, California's bustling waterfront days.  The name "Madaket" means "gift of God" and for the people who enjoy the eight-mile cruise, the trip is a gift. Fishing vessels and buildings are described on a journey with Capt. Zippo, from May into September.  CAPTAIN ZIPPO  is the alter ego of Libby Tonning, a natural born naturalist, storyteller and skipper.  She gives a lively commentary on the area, from early explorer days to the county's present industries, which include cannabis. Her love of Humboldt Bay is obvious from the moment we spot our first bird, a graceful egret. "He's likely from the rookery on Indian Island," says Zippo. She guides us past sawmills, boat life, fish-packing plants, private yachts, bird sanctuaries and more, giving a lively synopsis of decades of history, development and change. A piece of artwork near the Madaket ticket booth in Old Town waterfront, Eureka. SHE POINTS   out Samoa Beach, where the USS Milwaukee ran aground in 1916, pulling closer to remnants of trestles built to salvage the 400-foot Navy cruiser. The Carson Mansion is considered the country's finest example of Queen Anne architecture. The Madaket is the oldest continuously operating passenger vessel in the U.S. She also boasts the state's smallest licensed bar, where we enjoyed sodas while the locals sipped chardonnay. THE 90-MINUTE trip is both history lesson and pleasant afternoon. We learn of fish processing plants and see which boats bring in clams or oysters. We view where douglas fir is cut and readied for  China. We learn of the native people, the indigenous Wiyot. A cottage and fishing boats along the harbor's north end. We admire the stately Carson Mansion, built in 1884 by lumber magnet William Carson. It's a towering Victorian house in Old Town, not far from the harbor. The house is regarded as one of the country's best examples of American Queen Anne Style architecture. OUR SKIPPER,  a 31-year old New Mexico native, fell in love with Humboldt Bay when she visited as a teen on a family vacation. She returned to attend Humboldt State University, majoring in marine fisheries.  But she was drawn more to surfing and boats, so she cultivated sea time, studying for her captain’s license.  She earned it in 2017 and signed on at Madaket where she continues as both skipper and tour guide. She also surfs, scuba-dives, and works as a hand aboard Zerlang tugboats."I can't imagine doing anything else," she says as we pull along the dock for her next passengers. Madaket also offers cocktail cruises during the season.    humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com 707 445-1910 Thanksgiving in southern France for us included a wine tasting with several small  courses and  plenty of delicious cheese.  The accommodating Provencals  also provided tasty non-alcoholic beer, warm baguettes and berries.   UP NEXT:  Come along with us as we travel outside the United States to celebrate Thanksgiving on foreign soil. Although it's not a holiday in most places we go, we nod to this traditional American holiday with paella, pudding and prosciutto, blue cheese and baguettes, remembering to be thankful for a multitude of things. Those include our ability to travel, immerse ourselves in other cultures, their art, music and theater.  And always, we enjoy their food. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at travel, nature, art, food, family and more: whereiscookie.com

  • Queen Califia's Magical Circle French born sculptor's gift enhances Escondido park

    Queen Califia's Magical Circle offers a colorful escape.    Story by Christene Meyers Photos by Bruce Keller Days ago, we went down the rabbit hole. No, not with Alice, but with Niki. It was marvelous! Part of me is still there. We happened upon Queen Califia's Magical Circle on a driving trip. The magnificent creation of the late French artist Niki de Saint Phalle is quietly dazzling. Picnic and puppies in tow, we were looking for a place to lunch within an hour of San Diego.  We found it in Escondido's beautiful Kit Carson Park, named after the famed frontiersman.  We strolled the grounds with the Yorkies, passing two guys playing frisbee golf. They paused to pet the pups, chat and reveal that they lived nearby. "Are you going up the trail?" one asked. "It will blow your mind.  Some eccentric French lady did this crazy sculpture thing. It's a trip. Just follow the trail." The African queen Califia, at top and back, inspired Niki de Saint Phalle's sculpture garden in Escondido.     "Crazy sculpture thing" hardly describes Saint Phalle's magic. Queen Califia's Magical Circle is through the looking glass and beyond.      Named after a legendary black Amazon warrior queen, it is a treasure not to be missed.      Saint Phalle obviously was a smart, dramatic and inspiring artist.  Her California garden tells a story -- of California's mythic, historic and cultural roots.  Nine large-scale sculptures surrounded by a serpentine wall and maze entryway entice the stroller inside. Appropriately, the amazing creation stands on grounds originally inhabited by Indians of the acorn culture. Surely the artist knew this!      Once you're in, you'll want to spend a couple hours studying this brilliant and colorful gift.  It incorporates women, jungle creatures and other elements, with thousands of precisely placed tiles, stones, pieces of glass and breathtaking mosaics. Cookie delights in the garden, patting polished stones of an intricate mosaic .  It's impossible not to want to touch! The garden is both sensuous and tactile.      It is obvious that the artist inhabited many worlds.  Like many creative people -- artists, musicians and writers -- she was part mystic, part realist, part mature woman and a bit of a tease.  She also had the capacity to live in a child's orbit, an enviable talent.        Despite the sophisticated nature of the work, there is a childlike wonder to the place which makes me wish I'd known her.  Ron McPherson's company, La Paloma, fabricated many of the lush, large and evocative sculptures which were attracting old and young alike the day we visited. They invite touching!  Keller, Nick and Nora relax below the entrance to the sculpture garden.      A little homework provided me with these facts:      She was born in France in 1930, became a painter and sculptor in her youth, married twice and never lost her passion for art. By her twenties, she was gaining fame with her "Nanas," spectacular solo exhibitions celebrating happy, content and free women.      Internationally known and a member of the influential Paris group, "Nouveaux Realistes," she designed major exhibits in Tuscany, Germany and France, including a world-famous fountain in the Georges Pompidou Center in her beloved Paris.   Lucky California was the beneficiary of her genius when her doctor advised moving to a mild climate in 1994.  The artist was ailing from the emphysema which took her life in 2002, but during her eight years in La Jolla, she designed the spectacular gift to southern California and the world.       The gift lives in Escondido, a North county town that most San Diegans don't know well. Niki's sense of the magical and mythical delight, flanked by native trees and shrubs which the city planted.         I had no idea that this wonderful sculpture garden is tucked away in the nearly 300-acre park.  It's a wistful fact that Saint Phalle did not live to see its completion (she died before its opening in 2003) but it's comforting that she was involved in its installation from 1999 until her death. Her San Francisco based granddaughter sits as a trustee of this marvelous gift.      "The artist donated it to the city," says Kristina Owens, Escondido's public arts administrator.  "She always wanted to have a sculpture garden in the U.S., and she loved southern California."      It's ironic that these vibrant sculptures reside in a town whose name means "hidden" because the garden is not splashily advertised. Do people realize how extraordinary it is? How lucky we are?           When one considers the fame and influence of the "new realists" and that Saint Phalle was one of this prestigious group, we should consider ourselves lucky to be within driving distance of her gift.  I was reminded of Gaudi's creations in Barcelona, or some of the imaginative projects of her contemporaries -- Christo, Yves Klein, and Jean Tinguely, her second husband.  Ruth, left, and her daughter join Cookie -- new friends, drawn to the Magical Circle by a talented French-born artist.      Her sculptures make me smile -- and will you, too! The Escondido garden also makes me want to visit her European installations.  I will.     Meanwhile, we can enjoy her buxom, colorful figures, her playful animals, joyous flowers and flirtatious snakes in the lovely environs of Kit Carson Park.    The area is graced by native trees and shrubs.  Niki herself designed sculptural bench seating where one may enjoy the art and truly let it "sink in." Sadly, vandals have chipped away at some of the beauty and time has taken a toll. Some repairs are in order. And the vandalism has necessitated fencing.   Niki wanted her creations to be viewed as "happy and free" and the garden inspires these feelings. While paying homage to imagination, California and the natural world, the garden also encourages discussion and family visits.  Escondido school children make regular pilgrimages, arranged by art teachers. We shared the space with a romancing couple playing classical guitar, and a grandma and her children. "This place is simply amazing. Amazing," she repeated. "Wonderful!"     An endowment has been established to help maintain the gift.  Call 760 839-4331.  To donate, plan your trip, or learn more about Niki, go to:      Kit Karson Park also includes a wonderful aboretum and Iris Sankey Garden, an amphitheater, baseball field, picnic areas, tennis courts, ponds, hiking trails, a golf course and more. Truly a treasure for us all, a thoughtful mix of developed and natural land. Find the magic at 3333 Bear Valley Parkway, heading east then north off the I15. Good mojo awaits! Coming Soon: Birds, birds, birds. Whether on road trips to Montana's Beartooth's, a picnic on the beach or hikes and sails around the globe, the feathered friends keep Cookie and Keller  An egret poses behind ducks at Kit Carson Park in Escondido. company.  An homage to these feathered, winged tetrapods that surprise, delight and calm us. Please tell your friends about us.  Our blog is now being enjoyed on five continents! And keep the comments coming:         whereiscookie.com Remember to explore, learn and live!

  • North Yorkshire Moors Railway: All aboard a British train, with proud history riding the rails

    All aboard! North Yorkshire Moors Railway pulls out of the station with a full complement of passengers.  York's National Railway Museum has won national awards for its expansive telling of rail history. MERRY OLDE ENGLAND NURTURES A DEEP AFFECTION FOR RAIL TRAVEL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" TRAINS ARE  as much a part of English life today as ships were centuries ago. The National Railway Museum in York is the largest and most expansive in the country, known for its variety, welcoming layout and detailed exhibits.  North Yorkshire Moors Railway highlights We recently explored several rail venues in Northeast England and plan to expand our rail travel to other parts of the United Kingdom. Since the country's first steam locomotives chugged out of Stockton and Darlington in 1825, that pastoral corner of England has held rail travel close to its heart. People in all parts of the UK enjoy relaxing, soaking up views. Nowhere is the rail experience more rewarding than in the North York Moors. With lovely scenery, a beverage and sometimes a pleasant lunch or tea, train travel combines three things the British love: countryside, history and a bite, a cuppa or a pint. The and a chance to relax and visit with a drink or snack. QUEENS, SOLDIERS  and school children enjoyed rail travel dating back to the golden age of steam. We began our "train fix" with a history lesson at York's fine National Railway Museum, part of the extensive Science Museum Group. Admission is by donation and upon entering the expansive halls, wonders unfold: iconic locomotives, Queen Victoria's plush car, a detailed rail ambulance which saved lives during wartime, a magical mail car with a fascinating film of workers tossing and collecting bags of post from moving trains. The Royal Scotsman, Orient Express --  trains, from antique to sleek-contemporary. BRITISH RAIL travel, much like train travel in the U.S., developed during the railway boom of the 1840s, with dozens of competing companies.  Through the 19th and early 20th centuries, these consolidated or were bought up  by competitors until only a few companies remained Miss Eastwood serves beverages aboard an old-fashioned steam train. . One enterprise that flourishes is the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. We joined 100-plus fellow train lovers for a pleasant journey from Whitby to Pickering.  Our hosts, John and Sue, arranged the trip -- she dropped us off via auto and John joined us in our red velvet car. We traveled through lush woodlands and picturesque villages, much as they were 100 years ago. We visited, relaxed and sipped beverages served by a smiling stewardess then Sue kindly met us to motor us home. We've trained around the UK through England, Scotland and Wales in past visits, and recommend it for its "no hassle" ease, speed and convenience. As passengers departed their trains in York, we headed for ours, in a lovely car taking us to London for six days.   SINCE THEY "do the driving," rail travel is a stress-free, comfortable way to travel, even on short notice.  A spontaneous trip can easily be arranged. Visiting BritRail's website is a good place to start.  You'll find passes for extended travel, sleeping cars and even package tours. The expansive BritRail train system offers a variety of excellent passes to suit every desire for travel in the UK. This trip, we experienced only a small part of BritRail's destination bonanza. Our York-London trip was a comfy two-hour journey to central London, then just a 10-minute taxi to our hotel. Cookie and Keller at York's famous Rail Museum which features all manner of train-related transportation, antique to contemporary.  The museum asks only a donation. THOUSANDS MAKE  use of BritRail passes for the flexibility in using the UK's expansive national rail network to historic places. All major cities are served, including London, Edinburgh, Manchester, Brighton, Glasgow, Liverpool, Birmingham and many more.    Here are a few of the impressive variety of passes BritRail offers: BritRail England Pass  - travel the whole of England. BritRail London Plus Pass - travel Southeast England to Stratford Upon Avon, Bristol, Bath and Cambridge. BritRail Spirit of Scotland Pass - travel all over Scotland including ferry routes to the islands. BritRail Central Scotland Pass  - travel between Glasgow and Edinburgh via historical towns such as Stirling, Linlithgow and Dunblane. BritRail Scottish Highlands Pass - travel around the Scottish Highlands by rail with some ferry routes. BritRail Southwest Pass - travel from London (including busy Heathrow Airport) to Southwest England, to visit  the beaches of Cornwall or have a cream tea in Devon. TO GET YOU  in a train state of mind, the York museum is planning fun holiday displays, including one featuring the original Stephenson's Rocket, which changed rail travel in 1829.  Another exhibit features "The Age of Innovation" when vicars, lace-makers and miners brought their own miniature locomotives to life. We recommend rail travel over renting a car in Britain, particularly for our fellow Yanks. To avoid driving "the wrong side of the road," why not ride the rails instead? nymr.co.uk ;   railwaymuseum.org.uk ;  britrail.com Bruce Keller, aka "Keller" and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on board the Madaket, on lovely Humboldt Bay. UP NEXT:  Did you know that there exists in  northern California, the country's oldest still operational ferry boat.  The Madaket proudly patrols the waters of Humboldt Bay, with a skipper who knows her business and shares information about the wildlife, economy, waterways, history and purpose of the charming ferry, which among other attributes boasts the smallest licensed bar in the state.  More next week.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn, laugh and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more:  www.whereiscookie.com   Please share the links and tell your friends. We have a global readership of which we are very proud.

  • Farm to table Point Arena California with James and Kelle

    PURPLE MARTIN'S MAJESTY GROWS FINE ORGANIC FARE James Walker Hayes washes freshly picked produce at the organic farm he and his partner, Kelle Martin, run. The historic Point Arena Lighthouse, above, is a few miles back toward town from the farm, then up the road a bit. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE APPROACH  to a gardener's Eden is a good half hour outside of Point Arena, Calif., down a winding country road dense with fir, cedar, pine and redwoods. You know you're going some place special because it's serene, peaceful, picture-postcard perfect. The air smells terrific. Purple Martin Farm puts a person in a happy state of mind. James Hayes and Kelle Martin welcome us for a three-day stay. Dinner is served -- with a freshly picked salad.  WE ARE  surrounded by beauty, both inside their house and throughout the property, with its various greenhouses, sheds and wine making shop, all spread across artfully landscaped grounds. Blooming vegetables are ready for harvest. Apricots the size of lemons are picked for snacking. Pears aren't quite mature but show promise. Various apples in various stages.... James is proud of the enterprise's secondary offshoot, wine making.   Figs will be enjoyed soon. Flowers bloom everywhere and the couple has used native rock to frame footpaths and set off shrubs and ground cover. HARD TO  imagine anyone working in this idyllic setting, but there's elbow grease aplenty and chores underway. Who needs marijuana with this natural high? Song birds tweet a tuneful hello and Millie, the dog, welcomes our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, after voicing momentary distress. Soon, the three canines are romping together, exploring the lush acreage above the Pacific Ocean in this unspoiled corner of Mendocino County. Hayes and Martin have been farmers for more than a dozen years, since Martin earlier scouted out the property to fulfill her desire to live off the land and grow her own food. Fruit trees were just about perfect for picking in early June. Hayes, a gifted musician, had been playing in various popular bands.   His creativity extends to the outdoors and he shares Martin's love of the land.  Together they decided to pursue an organic farming endeavor, which has grown into a successful venture. FOR SEVERA L years, the two have grown much of what they consume, eating what is available in each season and selling surplus to markets and restaurants.  One of their major clients is Uneda Eat, a small, upscale restaurant in downtown Point Arena specializing in "local, organic and lusty" meals.  We sampled gorgeous rabbit and tenderloin with amazing appetizers and salads, made with Purple Martin produce. A picturesque pond on the property is surrounded by trees and shrubs. Usually, there's something left of the bounty for guests, friends, neighbor and family.  Hayes' father, Jim Hayes, lives in nearby Point Arena, and is an occasional dinner guest at the farm, stopping at the store for the odd jug of lemonade or pound of coffee beans the couple need to fill out a meal menu. THEY TRADE  their bounty for the few things their industrious efforts don't provide -- meat and poultry, goat cheese and sometimes jams, chutney or other specialty items. One of Kelle's magnificent bouquets graces the couple's kitchen table, with newly harvested squash, lemons and apricots. When we visited last week, James (happily, he's my nephew) made a call to a friend who provided gorgeous lamb chops in exchange for wine. (Thanks again, James and Kelle, for the wonderful meal.) Hayes makes his own gluten-free bread, using interesting yeasts and cultures, including sauerkraut juice! We sampled his delicious, tangy sour dough bread with homemade strawberry preserves. Lamb chops, fresh off the grill, are a treat -- traded for wine and veggies. Purple flowers attract bees and human admirers at Purple Martin Farm near Point Arena, California. THE COUPLE'S work ethic is of the Old School.  Hayes' dad is a New Yorker who gave up a thriving but intense law practice to become a successful potter in the more laid back environment of northern California in the late 1960s.  James' late mother, Peny, was a gifted musician, artist and dance teacher, who also loved to Kelle traveled the world -- France to Australia -- before settling down. bake, garden, draw and sing. She moved from Montana to a northern California commune in the early 1970s, where she met the senior Hayes.  Before her untimely death from leukemia in 1986, the couple had two children: James and his older sister, Amarylla Penelope Hayes Ganner, who lives in the Bay Area with her husband, Steve, and kids, James and Peny, recently featured here. YOUNG HAYES  lived a nature-driven life as a child and remembers growing up with a cow, fresh berry pie and a huge garden on the family's Manchester farm property. James on bass, Cookie on piano, a young rising vocalist and Millie the doggie, enjoy an evening music session. HE IS a voracious reader and turned me onto "slow food" articles and books about nutrition and organic farming. Kelle's parents, too, were grounded in the land and her five siblings visit the farm and sometimes aid in its upkeep, clearing brush and harvest. The advantages to organic gardening are, of course, control over what you grow.  You plant the seeds, nurture the young plants, make sure the soil is rich and clean, provide James, right, and Kelle, left, with his father, Jim Hayes, and his auntie Cookie, aka Christene Meyers. adequate water and pinch off excess.  Eventually you have eggplant, zucchini, broccoli, tomatoes and, if you're James and Kelle, a half-dozen kinds of lettuce and salad greens. THE DOWN  side of organic gardening is the necessity of adequate insect and pest management. "It's a continuing challenge," Hayes said.  Because insects are mobile and can outsmart farmers, they need to be "outwitted" rather than eliminated.  During our brief visit, we observed the destruction by a lettuce eating pest who virtually wiped out an entire row of produce overnight. So Hayes and Martin are studying how various insects go about sustaining themselves and collecting the necessities of life, hoping to use their knowledge to manipulate the critters into actually protecting crops. Hayes' musical talent carries on the tradition of his mother's family, the Cosgriffes. His dad sings and appreciates. MEANWHILE , the hours are long and the two get weary. But they're not party poopers. Besides the gardening, harvesting and wine making, they are both accomplished cooks, and served up several feasts during our too brief visit.  They also staged a couple concerts -- with a young neighbor singing, myself on piano and Hayes on bass. He still plies his musical trade in a couple local bands, having played in venues in San Francisco and up and down the coast since his teen-age days. Rows of beautiful onions, broccoli, greens and herbs await picking and cleaning. Now in their late thirties and early forties, Hayes and Martin stay fit in their outdoor endeavors, hikes and keeping the acreage groomed and productive. She is also known in the county for her spectacular floral arrangements, which she markets for special events, dinners, weddings, memorials and other celebrations. For more about their enterprise, contact Purple Martin Farm at 707 882-3709 (you'll get a voice recording, probably, because James and Kelle will be at work outdoors.) Uneda Eat's phone is 707 882-3800 on Main Street, Point Arena. Reservations are recommended. Bon appetite! Moss Landing pelicans preen for kayaking nature lovers. COMING UP:  Our California idyll continues with a serene morning on an estuary near Moss Landing, with pelicans overhead. Launch yourself into a nature preserve, surrounded by sea otters. And learn with Cookie how to stay dry in a kayak! We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventures, off the beaten track. Tell your friends about us: www.whereiscookie.com

  • High speed British trains offer organized, relaxing way to see the UK your way

    Bruce Keller poses by one of the UK's many efficient and comfortable trains. By using a BritRail pass, we were able to visit several cities during a brief trip, making the most of our time. TRY A TRAIN ON BRITRAIL FOR YOUR NEXT UK VISIT  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" IF A VISIT to the United Kingdom is on your bucket list, you might be overwhelmed by the variety of historic places vying for attention. Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers in Edinburgh's Waverley Station, an easy hop to Princes Street, Edinburgh Castle, many cafes and shops. The two and a Yorkshire friend met with Scottish family. A visit to Hampshire's Highclere Castle, where "Downton Abbey" was filmed, makes a pleasant train  trip. A package includes a trip on a classic British Pullman, a lovely brunch and castle tour. We visit England often and prefer the high speed British train when possible, as we had grown tired of renting cars and the challenge of driving on the wrong side of the road.  This time, we let BritRail do the "driving" to make the best use of our brief time in a favorite destination. THE BRITISH  rail system is time honored. Our UK cousins really know how to run their trains. Theirs is one of the oldest rail networks in the world.  In the early 19th Century when most people traveled by horse, ships or carriages, those clever Brits were already riding the rails!     On this most recent UK visit, rather than the stress of renting a car and the confusion of driving on the other side of the road, we chose to travel by high speed British train. We had several places to go, after crossing the Atlantic on Queen Mary 2. Our BritRail passes made it possible to combine historic landmarks, cities, castles we'd admired on TV, and family visitations. In the same UK visit, it is possible to travel from Southampton to see friends in Yorkshire, from London to connect with  Oxford friends, spend a day with family in Edinburgh, and  tour an English castle or manor house. Visiting old friend, well known Oxford scholar David Howlett, was a treat. He pointed out historic buildings, Bill  Clinton's student digs, some of the famed university's many colleges and favorite spots on quaint streets. A delightful day trip from London's Paddington Station. BritRail," as it is affectionately called, makes it possible to organize smooth train travel between whatever points your itinerary includes. It just takes a bit of planning. THE COUNTRY'S extensive rail network offers a variety of passes for various amounts of time. Do your homework because there are multiple choices for travel across England, Scotland and Wales. There are some discounts for youth and seniors and watch for promotions which can stretch your pounds with a bit of research and homework. Over 20 Train Operating Companies (TOCs) make up the National Rail network of Great Britain. BritRail sells the passes and other companies operate the trains. Our passes were issued through ACP Rail, one of BritRail's star partners. So ACP Rail is where you need to get your BritRail passes, particularly if you are seeking a mobile pass. Passengers may use selected BritRail passes on all National Rail trains. Just know the boundary of your specific pass zone.   The ease of UK train travel made a family reunion possible.  Bruce Keller, Margaret Ganner, Christene Meyers, Gerrard Ganner, Jane Brodie and Sue Speight met  for a day in Scotland. The Ganner party took the train into Edinburgh from their nearby town, while Cookie Keller and Sue came by train from Yorkshire. THE HUGE VARIETY of passes and tours allows one to custom design a specific itinerary. Because there are so many choices, you'll have to narrow the field. First, determine what places you really want to see and how many days you have. Then review the options at the website. What's your pleasure? Do you want a scenic trip through Scotland, cultural delights of village life and rural England, a visit to an abbey or castle where a favorite PBS program was filmed? We truly enjoyed seeing where PBS productions were filmed. Access to the famed "Downton Abbey" and "Brideshead Revisited" sites are easily arranged. Perhaps you wish to visit the town of your ancestors to look for family roots and records. Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal in Yorkshire are the largest of its kind in Europe, a vast ruin  open to the sky, popular with locals and tourists. A train trip from King's Cross to York then a short taxi ride make a lovely day trip. TO MAKE the most of your high speed British train experience plan your time, arrange your itinerary before and don't be unnerved if your favorite abbey or castle is a few kilometers from the nearest train stop. If you want to see Fountains Abbey, for example, take the train from London to York, then take a taxi or hitch a ride with a friend to see the abbey.  An amiable steward offers beverages and snacks. WITH OUR  Yorkshire friend, Sue, we booked the high speed Brinish train to Edinburgh using our passes. She purchased a single roundtrip ticket from Darlington to Edinburgh, arranging to sit with us.  This enabled us to spend the day with our Scottish relatives. They were eager to show us highlights of Scotland’s magnificent capital city,  treating us to a Scottish meal at a delightful restaurant, regaling us with the city's history while we strolled Princes Street, bought souvenirs and stopped for a bagpipe trill at Scott Monument, the world's largest monument to a writer. Cookie relaxes on BritRail with a splendid view, comfy seat to see the picturesque English country. On another trip, we toured the Royal Yacht Britannia and heard the mid-day gun salute from Edinburgh Castle. To do that would have meant overnighting, but we accomplished a lot in a single day's journey. We're forever fans of BritRail and the variety of passes which save time, money and nerves. If you want a pass, ACP Rail is the only distributor for BritRail pass especially on the Mobile-Pass. More information or to book: www.acprail.com/ www.britrail.com/britrail-passes/britrail-pass/ www.visitbritainshop.com/au/en/uk-travel-passes-and-transport-tickets/britrail-passes Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in front of the intriguing Museum of Latin American Art in Long Beach. COMING UP:  A treasure trove of Latin American art, by both famous and emerging artists awaits in the fascinating, user friendly and beautifully curated Museum of Latin American Art. The metal sculpture in front of the Long Beach museum is typical of the work at this extraordinary museum which is the only facility in the United States dedicated to both modern and contemporary Latin American art.  A unique sculpture garden is part of the pleasures of this intriguing and imaginatively curated museum.  We step inside to reflect on the diversity of sculpture, paintings and more.  Meanwhile remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, nature, performance, family and more. Thanks for sharing the link, too: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Richmond's Georgian Theatre Royal, England's oldest operational theater, is a gem

    Elegant boxes and beautiful curtains, ornate original design touches and perhaps the oldest known theatrical set piece mark the historic Georgian Theatre Royal in Richmond, Yorkshire, England. ENGLISH VILLAGE PRODUCES POPULAR THEATER, CONCERTS IN HISTORIC VENUE DATING TO 1899 Richmond's Georgian Theatre Royal is among the country's revered theaters, and the oldest still operational one. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" THEATER  is as much a part of life in England as steak and kidney pie, pub life and the Royal Family. Whether you spell it with an "er" or an "re" you can be sure that Richmond's Georgian Theatre Royal is worth a visit if you're anywhere near north Yorkshire. We sat for a few minutes in the Royal Box, during an afternoon guided tour . Then Prince Charles and Camilla, before he became King, in the Royal Box. THE THEATRE Royal is the oldest still operational theater in England, a charming, small venue where regular performances and concerts are held as they have been since 1899 -- with a few interruptions.  Its official handle is the Georgian Theatre Royal and it opened with "As You Like It," written by William Shakespeare in 1599. The theater continues to offer classical works, as well as concerts and a variety of productions including  recent sold-out presentations of  "The Buddy Holly Story" and "Northern Soul." WITH ONLY 154 seats, everyone in the house is practically "ringside." We recently enjoyed beautiful orchestra seats with our hosts and Yorkshire residents, John and Sue, who are regulars at the theater. The venue is beloved by Yorkshire residents who are rightly proud of its history and life as both a thriving community playhouse and a living theater museum. No wonder it is revered, for famed actor Edmund Kean is among luminaries to act on the historic stage. Building on the theater began in 1788 with actor-manager Samuel Butler and his first wife Tryphosa Brockhill Butler in command.  It was a "circuit theater" then, with actors traveling the countryside to play other houses -- in Beverley, Harrogate, Kendal, Northallerton, Ripon, Ulverston and Whitby.  All those theater venues are long gone, giving more meaning to Theatre Royal's longevity. The streets of Richmond suit the historic look and feel of the intimate Theatre Royal, the city's pride, a beautiful venue which welcomes visitors and residents alike for tours and performances. FOLLOWING TRYPHOSA's death, then Butler's demise, his second wife, Francis Maria Jefferson, took over the operation. Following her run, for more than the next100 years, the building housed other enterprises, including a wine warehouse and an auction house.  A determined fundraising effort allowed a return to its original purpose and it reopened as a non-profit trust in 1963.  An expansion followed in 1996, then a major restoration in 2002. More than 1.6 million pounds was raised, with a gala reopening in 2003. A view of the theater's interior from the stage, looking back, to show the compact house. We marveled at the artwork in this sturdy old theater, which hosted performances by Dame Sybil Thorndike in the 1960s and famed contemporary actor Dame Judi Dench in more recent times. Dench is also president of the theater. Famed actor Edmund Kean had star billings in the theater's early days. The neighborhood of Richmond's Theatre Royal houses many interesting buildings, including shops, hotels, restaurants and this apartment building.   OUR GUIDED tour included viewing of some of the prized artifacts, organized in 2016 with the opening of "The Georgian Theatre Royal Experience." Within the theater is a museum detailing the history of the building and displaying artifacts from the theatre's collection, as well as The Woodland Scene, reported to be the oldest surviving stage scenery in the world. The "Experience" is run by an educated, engaging group of theater loving volunteers, including retired teachers and businessmen, all theater buffs. They are proud of the theater's outreach through the Paul Iles Learning Centre, named after its patron. It  houses The Georgian Theatre Royal Youth Theatre and hosts myriad events including volunteer open days, book groups and costume making sessions. THE THEATER's  most precious possession is what is that aforementioned world's oldest piece of theatrical scenery. It's "The Woodland Scene," painted in a workshop in Royston, Hertfordshire, in around 1820. The theater in preparation for a performance of "Northern Soul." Here, stage, and behind in the backstage where props await placement.  The cozy theater also houses a bar, box office, office space and storage space. The theater's pantomime productions are a huge audience hit, with giant set pieces and characters from children's literature, folk and fairy tales. "Rapunzel" is running now.  Surely Edmund Kean's ghost is smiling down. Remember to explore, learn and live and click below for more on Georgian Theatre Royal performances or tours:   www.georgiantheatreroyal.co.uk

  • Memories of London and QE2's Silver Jubilee: Roger Moore's passing prompts recall of meeting Royals and 'Gentleman's 007'

    Roger Moore, Barbara Bach, Cubby Broccoli and Princess Anne at the premiere of "The Spy Who Loved Me." STORY and PHOTOS By CHRISTENE MEYERS and courtesy United Artists THE INVITATION  came by certified mail -- delivered to the newsroom where I worked many years in Billings, Montana. I was invited to see the Queen -- not a drag show diva from a Vegas hotel. The real deal. Queen Elizabeth II.  I flew off to a five-day party, whose zenith would occur on 7-7-77, in celebration of the Queen's Silver Jubilee and the debut of the latest 007 movie, "The Spy Who Loved Me." (The Queen's a fan of Bond. James Bond.)  That Bond film starred Roger Moore, who passed away this week at age 89.  He and his leading lady, Barbara Bach, would take part in the revels. Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip greet crowds of well wishers at Buckingham Palace during festivities celebrating her 1977 Silver Jubilee. The royal family would attend a black tie opening of the film at Odeon Cinemas in Leicester Square. Three dozen U.S. film reviewers and travel- arts writers were guests of United Artists, invited through famed James Bond film producer Albert "Cubby" Broccoli, who hand-picked the journalists. Cookie attended one of London's famous street parties, July of 1977. Thousands of Londoners and tourists celebrated Queen Elizabeth II's 25th year. Memories of London and highlights of QE2's Silver Jubilee WE WOULD spend five hectic days and "black tie" nights in London, based at the plush InterContinental Hotel in Mayfair.  We'd attend the world premiere of the film, have lunch in Kew Gardens, afternoon tea at the elegant Dorchester Hotel, a morning at the British Museum and afternoon at Tate Gallery, meet members of the royal family at a reception and join revelers at two of London's famous street fairs.  Five of us would interview Moore. A quick run across Piccadilly is just the right place to catch the Queen's Guard passing by Hotel InterContinental. Broccoli, a jovial, smart film scholar, whose hobby was cooking, liked my interview style and film critiques.  He knew I was a musician and would appreciate the film's theme song -- "Nobody Does It Better," famously sung for the picture by Carly Simon. Broccoli was instrumental in choosing the theme song and at a later United Artists film junket, he asked me to play it on the piano. INVITATION IN HAND, I approached my editor, Doc Bowler, a shrewd veteran newsman who knew a potential story when he saw it. I traded a few days off for a series of stories.  I bought my black-tie dress at Hart-Albin, during a quick lunch break (I still have it, a tasteful floor-length swishy gown with just the right amount of decolletage.) In New York, our chartered plane to London was late. I played the piano --show tunes, Cole Porter and Gershwin -- for two hours. This gave me cache for the interview, I'm certain. The always spirited "Queen Mum" was a highlight of the 1977 press trip. Cookie did not meet Prince Charles there, but did meet her favorite royal. She would later meet the Prince in Cody, Wyoming  Sir Roger Moore loved London, but preferred Switzerland. Roger Moore as 007 in "The Spy Who Loved Me" Among other highlights of the visit -- one of 20-plus trips I've made to London -- was watching the Queen's Life Guard prance down Piccadilly. We gazed down from a penthouse suite at the InterContinental as they approached. Then we reporters grabbed our cameras, crossed the street and photographed them passing our hotel. WE MET both Princess Anne and the Queen Mum (the Queen Mum by far my favorite, for her wit and warmth -- the Scottish influence, no doubt.) The parties were great fun -- thousands of merry Englishmen toasting the queen on streets, lawns and in pubs. But the highlight of the five days was being chosen to interview Roger Moore, who was well into his seven-Bond run between 1973 and 1985. I'd watched him as a kid, playing a favorite TV show of my dad's, "The Saint," in which he portrayed that appealing worldly adventurer, Simon Templar. We loved how he navigated the globe in a spiffy white Volvo in a hit series between 1962 and 1969. Roger Moore as TV's The Saint. Bond.  James Bond. Moore was an elegant 007. WHAT I REMEMBER most about the interview was Moore's elegance -- he put the five of us at ease immediately in his penthouse suite, offering shrimp and tea sandwiches and a full bar, where he recommended white wine -- he didn't drink martinis --   shaken or stirred.  One of the memorable quotes from the interview: "I believe in love, generosity, good manners. Those should be taught in school." He talked about his thrill at being picked by Broccoli in 1972 to play Bond. "I was ecstatic. I had never been a cinema star, although I had TV success.  I found out from Cubby that I had been short-listed to play Bond a decade earlier for "Dr. No."  The part went to some Scottish guy named Sean." The evolution of "Nobody Does It Better" to becoming the movie's theme song is classic Hollywood, show biz story stuff. He talked about the lushness of the film's theme song, written by Marvin Hamlisch and Carole Bayer Sager.  He thought it interesting that the only mention of the movie comes in the first verse: "Like heaven above me, the spy who loved me is keepin' all my secrets safe tonight."  Roger Moore in his last years. The dapper and erudite 007 endures. A FAN OF  trivia, he also told us that Hamlisch and Bayer Sager didn't write the song for the movie; producer Richard Perry convinced them to submit it for the film, and Broccoli loved it. Cubby asked the two to rework the song to make the lyric work for the 007 picture. The rest is history.  Except, perhaps for "Goldfinger," Carly Simon's "Nobody Does It Better" is one of the most enduring, 007 theme songs. Roger Moore endures as my favorite Bond -- and that of many other 007 fans. Dapper, elegant, suave on screen -- and off camera, a gentleman. Less than two weeks after surgery performed by Dr. Jonathan Fisher, left, Bruce Keller's recovery is breaking records (knock wood). More next week. NEXT UP : Bruce Keller's successful liver transplant at Scripps Green Hospital in La Jolla, Calif., has attracted international attention on our blog with thousands of hits and comments from Peru to Portugal, Italy to Ireland, Singapore to San Francisco.  At the Patient Patient's suggestion, we bumped our follow-up to the next posting. The always trending Mr. Keller deemed that Cookie's interview with Sir Roger Moore should go this week, current with Moore's recent passing. Next, we'll talk about the challenges of the transplant, as Keller breaks endurance records at Scripps. We'll describe fundamental changes in our lives, wrought by the transplant, and our schedule for getting back on track with theater, writing, his design and contracting work and our international travel. With an eye on the road ahead, remember to laugh, learn and live, and catch us weekends.

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