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Lovely hotels are part of the allure of Palm Springs, here the pool area of the Hilton Palm Springs in the heart of downtown. MORE LAID BACK THAN L.A., MORE SOPHISTICATED THAN LAS VEGAS,  PALM SPRINGS OFFERS CLASS, CALM, ART, NIGHT LIFE, BEAUTY The signature big horn sheep welcomes people to Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument Visitor Center. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTO By BRUCE KELLER A STROLL  through downtown Palm Springs, California, is a nod to the dozens of famous folks who lived in the area. Here they are remembered today -- embedded in the sidewalks of this glitzy desert town, whose official beginning is dated at 1876, when the Agua Caliente Reservation was established. The Cahuilla people lived here centuries before, and gave the town its name, "Se-Khi," or boiling water. Elvis Presley's home is one you'll stop by on our favorite tour, Viator's 2.5 hour Palm Springs Celebrity Tour. Take a trip to Palm Springs, which boomed because of Hollywood. Downtown Palm Springs is lively and sophisticated, not as noisy as Las Vegas and less frantic than L.A. Tucked into a lovely corner of the Sonoran Desert, Palm Springs is known across the world for  its stylish hotels, beautiful golf courses and top rated spas and nightlife. It is also noted for many fine examples of midcentury-modern architecture, shopping compared to Beverly Hills, golf on perfectly manicured greens, vintage boutiques, lively theater and acclaimed restaurants. Its casinos are friendly, the eateries have a gracious "old world" feel, and if you're drawn to nature, you can soak up the beauty of the surrounding Coachella Valley. There, hiking, biking and horseback riding await. Fantastic female impersonators offer a top-drawer show at Oscar's. Here, "Lady Gaga" as performed by Judas Joe Manson, one of four fabulous actors. WE VISIT  frequently, from our San Diego base, just two-plus hours from home through a lovely desert terrain (one can avoid the freeway for most of the journey.)  We find Palm Springs more sophisticated than Las Vegas, with an enticing variety of entertainment from fine live theater to excellent live music and a stunning female impersonators' revue at Oscar's featuring fabulous impressions of Barbra Streisand, Judy Garland, Bette Midler, Liza Minnelli and Lady Gaga. Director Dan Gore has assembled 150 years of experience in his crack cast headed by genial emcee Tommi Rose, with veterans Logan Walker and Brent Allen and newcomer Judas Joe Manson giving spot-on performances as the ladies. Oscar's is a classy cabaret every bit the equal of its Vegas counterparts. The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway takes you to the top, for a thrilling view; there might still be snow on the mountains. The draw of the town can't be denied. It's intoxicating. It's easy to relax beneath the mountains, sipping a coffee or wine around the pool or from your balcony at the lovely Hilton Palm Springs, a pleasant walking distance to shops, restaurants, clubs and casinos. PALM SPRINGS  is more laid back and sunnier than Los Angeles. In more than a dozen visits, we've never had bad weather. Balmy 70-degree winter temperatures are the rule and for us San Diegans, it's half the distance of Las Vegas, with its much less dependable weather. Check out Viator for various fun tours in the area. Don't miss the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, up, up, up to the still snowy mountain top where you'll mingle with sun and scenery seekers from around the globe. We noted license plates from New England, the Midwest and Canada in the Hilton and Tramway parking lot. The blend of city excitement with the beauty of the natural environment makes an intoxicating lure. And who doesn't enjoy 70 degree weather, when half of the country is still swathed in snow. Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Bruce Keller enjoy a desert hike. WE LOVE the variety of a Palm Springs day.  On one Saturday, we enjoyed a lovely nature walk in Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument, took a splendid docent tour at the beautiful Palm Springs Art Museum and enjoyed a show at Oscar's. Dining options abound. Our favorites are Eight 4 Nine Restaurant and Lounge with continental flair, and Sammy G's Tuscan Grill, also excellent. Both offer fine, precise, personalized service. Fan palms are native to Palm Springs. Here, on a hike at Agua Caliente. Walking around town, the tourist sees thousands of palm trees, most not native to this part of the world.  The lovely California fan palm is native, though.  To experience the region's original landscape -- before 100-plus golf courses and manicured resort lawns, drive 10 short  minutes west to the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation (means hot water). Take the delightful hike from the Trading Post to see the world's largest oasis of native fan palms.  They cluster near the oasis because of the enormous amounts of water they demand.   Fun celebrity home tour PALM TREES  are part of the romance of Palm Springs, though, and movie stars planted hundreds around their homes when Hollywood discovered the balm of Palm Springs. The stars came because  studios insisted they be no more than began "reasonable driving distance" from Hollywood -- about 140 miles in the 1940s.  Many of the stars lived in studio-built cottages, many still existing  in the "Movie Colony," whose streets are marked. Theater in a small welcoming venue at the Palm Canyon  Theatre, which recently ended a run of "Camelot." "Pajama Game" is on now with a run through March 15. Dozens of sidewalk stars honor the famous folks who lived in Palm Springs, from U.S. Presidents to actors.  "Golden Palm Stars" are embedded in the city's main streets and it's fun to walk downtown and admire them -- a lively mix of the rich and famous -- movie stars, literary figures, TV personalities, diplomats, civic leaders, philanthropists, artists and U.S. Presidents with ties to the town and region.  Nixon, Ford and Reagan all built homes here. The 2.5 hour Celebrity Tour through Viator/Trip Advisor, will take you past the homes of Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr., Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Cary Grant, Jack Benny, Marilyn Monroe and even Albert Einstein.   We leave a piece of our hearts on Palm Springs each visit, hoping we'll return.  pschamber.org ;    pstramway.com ;   oscarspalmsprings.com ;  viator.com/tours/Palm-Springs ;  palmcanyontheatre.org ;   eight4nine.com/     A diverse permanent collection, including works by world-class sculptors and painters awaits, with an impressive variety of murals, paintings and changing exhibits. Next week, we visit Palm Springs Art Museum. UP NEXT:   Come with us to explore the Palm Springs Art Museum, a treasure trove of world class art and sculpture. Then 150,000 square foot museum houses a diverse permanent collection, with innovative changing exhibitions and excellent docent-led tours to enhance your visit. We'll take you along to visit this world class museum with a lovely bistro and two outdoor sculpture gardens as well. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at art, nature, theater, family, travel and more: www.whereiscookie.com .

William Wrigley Jr. put his heart and his pocketbook into his beloved Catalina Island, where his widow erected a loving memorial in the Botanic Garden. A world of native plants, and a stunning tribute to a generous man await. TAKE TIME TO CHECK OUT CATALINA'S HIDDEN WONDERS: WRIGLEY GARDEN, MUSEUM, AIRPORT WITH GOOD EATS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HOLLYWOOD STARS  misbehaved there. Chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr. purchased stock in it, sight unseen. Today, tourists come from all over the world. Such was and is the allure of Santa Catalina Island, off the California coast. The "fame" started with the chewing gum icon. Who's this? A young, pre-blonde, Marilyn Monroe, on Catalina. Right, Wrigley smiles on Catalina. Once Wrigley sailed over to see what he'd invested in, he bought out other investors, becoming sole owner of the island. THAT WAS  in 1919, nearly a century ago. Today, Wrigley's stamp is felt throughout the island. And Hollywood's happy ghosts inhabit its streets, bistros and hotels. The Chicago Clubs spent many spring training days in the lovely climate and surroundings of Catalina. The Catalina Museum, moving sometime soon into new multi-million-dollar digs, is now housed in the Catalina Casino Wrigley built. There, we enjoyed historic photos of the Chicago Cubs' time in Catalina. AVID BASEBALL  fan Wrigley brought the team there for spring practice, which the team continued until the 1950s, past Wrigley's 1932 passing. His story is a true American success story: as a 13-year old kid, he sold his father's soap door-to-door from a two-horse wagon in rural Pennsylvania and New York. The gum he gave out free, to purchasers of the soap, was so popular that he went into the gum manufacturing business in Chicago. THE REST  is history. Within years, he was a millionaire, acquiring a handsome share of The Cubs, and buying up 90 per cent of Catalina. He built a dock and used his own private funds to establish electricity, water and sewer systems. Mrs. Wrigley built a beautiful memorial to her ambitious husband, and guests to the Wrigley Gardens can stroll up to it, and even to its top, with a lovely view of the gardens and sea. Soon, Hollywood discovered what Wrigley was excited about. Catalina's proximity to Los Angeles allowed the stars easy, quick access. Soon Charlie Chaplin, Humphrey Bogart, John Wayne, and Johnny Weissmuller were sailing their boats to Avalon Harbor. Marilyn Monroe came there as a young bride, while her first husband was serving his country. By day, the stars swam, fished and enjoyed the scenery. By evening, they mingled with islanders in restaurants and bars on the island’s two towns — Avalon and Two Harbors. They drank, dined, danced and caroused. Errol Flynn explained the island's pull: “...we were so intoxicated with the sheer zing of existence that we were half-mad..." CATALINA ISLAND  Museum’s impressive collection includes an impressive array of historical and cultural items. With generous donations, the museum has grown to a bonanza of 150,000 items representing the island's archaeology, natural history and architectural accomplishments. Ephemera, newspapers, archives, postcards, three-dimensional items and 10,000 photos and negatives (rotated and dating back to 1880) tell stories of island life. The Museum features a large and comprehensive collection of Catalina pottery and tile -- another Wrigley brain child -- manufactured in Catalina from 1927-1937. Private jets take off and land in spectacular beauty on Catalina. BOAT MODELS , sport fishing items, artifacts from the Island's steamships and more have made the new museum necessary. The enormous collection also boasts valuable archaeological artifacts. The Airport in the Sky's colorful bar and restaurant have lots of fun art. Wrigley erected hotels and built the world's largest dance hall -- the museum's home for a bit longer: Avalon Grand Casino. He built a harbor, bird park and established Catalina Clay, providing work for locals. Its tiles and pottery are still admired worldwide. His beloved Cubs trained on the island until 1951. Hollywood filmed dozens of films there. In 1975, Mr. and Mrs. Philip Wrigley (the gum magnate's son and daughter-i-law) and Philip’s sister, Dorothy Wrigley This small plane landed while we were on Catalina -- it's a small, spectacular runway with a stellar view of the ocean and surrounding landscape. Offield, deeded 42,000 acres owned by Santa Catalina Island Company to the Catalina Island Conservancy, giving control of 88% of the island. Wrigley's widow incorporated more than 60 of the island's 60 plant and animal species into the garden memorial. THE AIRPORT  in the Sky occupies a 1,602-foot-tall mountaintop at the center of the Island, 10 miles from Avalon. It's a fun destination, although our tour bus ride was jarring. We saw hikers and bikers, and a few private planes -- my choice for next visit. The airport's single 3,250-foot-long runway was constructed by blasting two adjacent peaks, then using the resulting debris for fill. Actors, artists fly high in novel about film's early days The DC-3 Gifts and Grill restaurant is famed for its excellent buffalo burgers, which we sampled. They also offer chicken and vegetarian burgers, and our guide Manny raved about the Mexican specialties and buffalo tacos. In summer, the Grill's barbecues -- with live music from Island band Hot off the Range. We also picked up some tasty buffalo jerky, and a collectible glazed tile in the gift shop. www.visitcatalinaisland.comwww.catalinaconservancy.org/index.php.airport_in_the_sky www.catalinaconservancy.org/index.php www.wrigleymemorialgarden Cookie, Keller and new friends take a ride on Kowloon Harbour. COMING UP:  Come with us to Asia. We're in Hong Kong now, and soon will be writing about our magnificent five-week odyssey. We'll travel on sampans, junks, bikes, trains, planes and cruise ships with occasional one-way streets (going the wrong way in a tuk-tuk.)  Then, can a scardey cat who once nearly drowned in a kayak ever take calmly to the waters again? Cookie overcomes a 30-year fear of kayaks, proving you can teach an old frightened dog a few new tricks. Join us by rickshaw or tuk-tuk, remembering to always explore, learn and live, and check us out Friday when we post for the weekend. www.whereiscookie.com

The Mob Museum in Las Vegas offers a fascinating departure from gambling, and a treasure trove of crime lore. MANIA FOR THE MOB: GRIT, GORE AND HANDS-ON EXHIBITS MAKE FOR FASCINATING, FUN VISIT TO SIN CITY MUSEUM Cookie peruses one of many user-friendly exhibits. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER GANGSTERS,  mafia bosses and their molls, booze, blood and bullets combine for a dose of criminal behavior -- and the guys and gals who went after the bad guys and girls. The Mob Museum offers all that and more. Get ready for a history of J. Edgar Hoover's relentless pursuit of crime bosses, wall-sized images of the St. Valentine's Day Massacre and other brutal murders. The well designed, user-friendly three-story treasure trove of memorabilia is an intensely orchestrated study of the evolution of crime. REMEMBER THE  gangster movies from the 1930s and '40s? ("You dirty rat.")  We grew up with them, and generations later, they still play well. And so does the Mob Museum. Crime -- unfolding through the acting of Jimmy Cagney, Edward G. Robinson, even Humphrey Bogart -- has always had an audience. Look up your favorite criminal in a wall of wanted posters. Known officially as the National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement, this fascinating place bills itself as a history museum. It is that -- a nod to the colorful history of crime. Located in downtown Las Vegas, Nevada, near the "Old Las Vegas" sign, it's a 15 or 20-minute drive from The Strip, a pleasant diversion from the lure of the casinos. TODAY'S AUDIENCE  needs to be engaged, and the museum does that, through dozens of large and small inter-active exhibits.  You can be part of a line-up, take your medicine in an electric chair, knock at a speakeasy door. You'll discover more about crime than you'd ever think you wanted to know -- but it's all fascinating.  Emphasis is, of course, on the role Las Vegas has played through the years, with a nod to Bugsy Seigel and his Hollywood/Santa Monica connections. Pretend to meet your fate, as these two giggling friends are doing, as you are strapped into the electric chair. KELLER HAD  fun with the line-up, and I took a seat in the electric chair -- a truly creepy experience. Newsreels of actual crime busts and other police activity are interspersed with an array of weapons.  An intriguing gallery of photos makes the mobsters and their pursuers come alive. Videos tell various crime stories, as attractive displays await. And homage is paid to the movies -- from "The Godfather" to earlier, vintage flicks which glamorized the criminals and are still popular today. Hollywood's connection to  organized crime is explored. THE MOB  Museum is fun, but also startling in its detail and scope.  Statistics reveal the millions of dollars of laundered money, the thousands of brutal murders and power the mob once had.  One map shows the mob's concentration in major U.S. cities, and another interesting display traces the European roots of mob crime in America. You'll see the mobsters and crime bosses at play, too, enjoying their families, out for a day of pleasure.  If you dare, you can join the mafia yourself, taking a blood oath and pledging loyalty to the death!   The Las Vegas Mob Museum delivers the real deal in crime fighting history and technique. Viator can take you there, and for a tour of the city as well. Bruce Keller readies for his place in the line-up, with this "mug shot," at the Las Vegas Mob Museum. A STAFF  of nearly two dozen runs the mob museum, which reaches into the community with fund-raisers and special activities.  Summer camps for kids teach the evils and consequences of a life of crime. The museum sponsors a series of "Courtroom Conversations," moderated panel discussions exploring Las Vegas crime and law enforcement history.  And the lovely Triple George Grill down the street offers a three-course dinner fit for Don Corleone. It's $89 and includes Mob Museum admission. Go undercover to tackle high-finance fraud, money laundering, counterfeiting, murder and greed. The underworld never looked so inviting! Go to:  themobmuseum.org/   www.viator.com   The Lipinsky Festival presents top Jewish inspired entertainment, including Hershey Felder, left, who presents his Leonard Bernstein work, "Maestro." MORE TO ENJOY :  Don't miss the 23rd annual Lipinsky Jewish Arts Festival -- in several venues, including Encinitas and Oceanside, with many events downtown at the Lyceum Theater and San Diego Repertory Theater. A wonderful abundance of theater, readings, concerts, and more await. We rave about fiddler Yale Strom's Klezmer Summit Monday, which he dubs "JewGrass." Marvelous blend of klezmer, bluegrass, country and Yiddish song plus Hot Pstromi and the Jewish Men's Choir. Simply vunderlekh, this lively mix of presentations. Call 619 544-1000 or check this out for tickets to a delightful variety of events:   sdrep.org/jewish_festival.ph   From left, in "Stupid Fu**ing Bird," actors Rachel Esther Tate, Ro Boddie, KaroleForeman, Jacque Wilke, Francis Gercke, Brian Rickel, Walter Murray Photo by Nil Noyan It helps if you know something of the melodrama and darkness of Chekhov, but it really isn't essential. This contemporary "remix" of "The Seagull," is a high energy, provocative work at Cygnet Theater. It is so outrageous, so fresh and raging, that it can't help but entertain. A terrific cast brings playwright Aaron Posner's creation to life against a backdrop of generational disparities, debates about the meaning of life, art and love. (And what else is there in drama?) Clever dialogue and inventive staging provide an engaging time at the theater, through June 19. For tickets:  cygnettheatre.com/show/15-16/stupid-f--king-bird.htm NEXT WEEK  we take a spin with Viator tours, with tips on making the most of your travel time here or abroad. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Fridays when we post for the weekend.

The people of Oplontis, near Pompeii, lived well in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, until 79 AD, when they were buried by tons of falling ash. We viewed art and artifacts of leisure and luxury detailing the life of Rome's privileged citizens. One of the most opulent of Rome's luxury villas was Oplontis, the summer home  of Emperor Nero's second wife. Parts of it are on view through Dec. 31, Museum of the Rockies has an intriguing related  show in the Planetarium, exploring  possibilities of the lost Atlantis. A WEALTHY VILLA UNTIL VESUVIUS: VISIT LUSH LIFE OF ROME'S PRIVILEGED BEFORE ERUPTION ENDED IT ALL 2,000 YEARS AGO STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER LIFE WAS GOOD  for the people of Oplontis. Running water, prolific crops, lovely architecture and artwork, the comforts of civilized life. Even the servants seemed content. That is, until Vesuvius erupted, spewing tons of molten lava, burying the prosperous little village beneath 50 feet of ash. When ruins of the 79AD disaster were discovered recently during preparation for building of a gymnasium, scholars determined that the public would benefit from an exhibit sharing the remarkably preserved discovery. Dining salons which seated 100 people, private chambers with spectacular frescos, marble columns rising from elaborate mosaic floor were uncovered. The Museum's Living History Farm offers a unique opportunity to experience life as it existed decades ago in rural Montana. Volunteers dress in period costumes to discuss gardening, homemaking, cooking and crafts. THE MUSEUM  of the Rockies is one of three fortunate venues to host a remarkable new traveling exhibit, "The Villas of Oplontis." It details the splendid, privileged life of the aristocratic Roman enclave which lived well and happily in a lavish villa -- until Mount Vesuvius' catastrophic eruption. To warm us up for that, we spent a wonderful afternoon at the museum's other components, starting first at the Living History Farm, where a docent greeted us in a garden of raspberries, squash and lettuce, and invited us into the restored vintage farmhouse. Beautiful jewels, here bracelets with asp heads, were found clutched in the hands of the long buried dead. There, another volunteer in period dress crafted potholders from scraps of coats and dresses, explaining how homesteaders cooked and sewed and survived a century or two ago. WE'D PLANNED  our afternoon to take in the Planetarium show, which ties in nicely with the Oplontis exhibit. It explores the possibilities of the location of the lost Atlantis. Sitting back in the comfy chairs and gazing to the heavens, we discovered anew why this wonderful place is an internationally respected planetarium. A creative bison -- made of car parts, musical instruments and more, is part of a children's area upstairs. It combines whimsy with education. Then a stroll through the homage to the West, and a look at researchers working on artifacts behind a glass screen. WE  WATCHED  a short, well crafted "overview" video narrated by Dr. Regina Gee, an expert on frescoes and one of three primary researchers involved in the Oplontis excavation.  Based at MSU in Bozeman, Gee was instrumental in getting the exhibit to Montana. "Leisure and Luxury in the Age of Nero: The Villas of Oplontis near Pompei" is the elaborate handle of this fine show. Many talents helped make it a reality. Watching the careful process of working on fossils and other  finds is part of the fun and education of a visit to the Museum of the Rockies. MSU STUDENTS  assisted in recreating elaborate frescoes which adorned the walls of the luxury homes. Jewelry was discovered, taken hurriedly along with money by citizens as they fled for hoped for safety and rescue in vaults which were not discovered until recent times. The lavish dining rooms and private chambers were destroyed, along with their spectacular mosaic floors and grand marble columns.  The people left behind wines, oils, strong boxes of coins and artwork of a sophisticated civilization. The wealthy took their prized objects with them to the vault, hoping for a rescue that never came. The servants were found with their tools of trade, hoping to rebuild a life, should they be found before they perished. MSU and Dr. Gee deserve kudos for bringing this impressive exhibit from Italy. It remains on view through Dec. 31. We found it both moving and enlightening to share the life of these sophisticated but doomed citizens. We ended our day upstairs in less ponderous surroundings. Above Oplontis, we watched children romp in the museum's cleverly designed play area with whimsical animals of the forest -- assembled artistically with found household and garage items. Come with us next to Rio, with a look at this exciting city of the current  Olympics. We share photos and insights into lively Brazilian culture. UP NEXT : With all eyes on Rio, we share a recent trip to Brazil.  Come with us up Sugar Loaf, to Ipanema Beach, a rock-folk concert and a spectacular spice, fruit and vegetable market. Then while we're enjoying time in Montana and a particularly beautiful summer, we take a trip down Memory Lane to a fabulous restaurant in the shadow of the Beartooths above Red Lodge.  Old Piney Dell still delivers a superb meal, at Rock Creek Resort.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Friday afternoons when we post for each weekend.

Gratitude comes in family size for Christene "Cookie" Meyers, in center, surrounded by her clan of siblings, cousins, nieces, nephews, adopted family and the next generation. GATHER TOGETHER, ROLL MERRILY ALONG, COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS, BE GRATEFUL FOR FRIENDS AND FAMILY Editor's Note: Our annual Thanksgiving essay is dedicated to our American friends and family and extended clan and pals abroad who celebrate their thanks on other days. Cookie and Grandpa Gus on Thanksgiving Day, 1950. (Gus is amused at Cookie's attempt to open a bottle of Coke with bare hands.) STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER (and from family archives) From Stephen Sondheim's "Merrily We Roll Along, in revival at Hudson Theatre, New York City, a story about friendship, change, loyalty, loss and gratitude. The three characters are a composer, playwright and theater critic. Yesterday is done, See the pretty countryside Merrily we roll along, roll along, Bursting with dreams...Traveling’s the fun, Flashing by the countryside Everybody merrily, merrily, Catching at dreams  WE SANG "Over the River and Through the Woods" years ago, to please our grandmother Olive who taught us the melody and lyrics. Today I'm humming Sondheim, whose musical, "Merrily We Roll Along," I saw during its short original run in 1981 and recently in a splendid revival. Perhaps it was ahead of its time, as director Hal Prince said 40 years ago. Now it is receiving raves and I know why. It's a story about love and enduring friendship. We need friends and family now more than ever, so celebrate them and let them know. We give thanks for our family, gathered to celebrate at our late summer wedding. I think of Gran Olive and the lessons she passed on. Thanksgiving came on the heels of her Nov. 19 birthday, so it was an extension of that -- a bonus time to play music, Scrabble, cribbage and pinochle, to visit, cook together, gossip and feast. Thanksgiving aboard Celebrity Century, with niece Amarylla, mum Ellen, sister Robbie, and Cookie. Friends were invited -- "strays," as gran called them. That included the Catholic priest, widowed neighbors, a favorite teacher -- divorced and alone -- and later college and newspaper friends whose families lived on the other side of the country. Gran's turkey wiggle recipe Cookie entertains on cruise ships, often during the Thanksgiving holidays. MY GRANDPARENTS  lived next door, so we didn't have far to go -- not "over the river" or "through the wood" but "down the steps and across the grass," our revised lyric. We were lucky to grow up with grandpa rents.  Having two homes was a luxury and our grandparents' plant and antique-filled house was safe haven from the tumult of our own hectic digs. But there was joy in the chaos of our home, and I miss the holiday activity -- rehearsing in the music room for our traditional after-dinner concert, the wallop of ping pong paddles and balls in the garage game room, the milkman's faithful trudge up the back steps bringing beverages, cheeses and butter right into the kitchen. I remember the reassuring slap of the morning paper against the front door, cats jumping on our beds to awaken us, dogs bringing their favorite fetch toys, fish to feed, plants to water, phone calls from those who couldn't make it. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in 2007, celebrating Thanksgiving at a Cuban restaurant. One of Gran's beautiful tables. OUR PARENTS  would chat and tease, making appetizers and drinks for their open house. Next door, Grandpa Gus whistled "Red River Valley" while helping gran Olive stuff and tie the bird. We relished that alluring smell of turkey roasting, pumpkin pies baking, her famous mincemeat cookies cooling. I was in charge of setting several tables in the dining room, living room and kitchen-- two or three small ones for the kids. Granddad carved after sharpening his knife on a slick black stone. Then, a weekend of leisurely prepared leftovers, including gran's famous "Turkey Wiggle." Everyone raided the frig for sandwiches -- turkey, cranberry, mayonnaise, lettuce, cheese, stuffing, sweet potatoes and pear chutney. Tupperware with green and black olives, radishes, dill pickles, cucumber chips. IT ALL SEEMS very Norman Rockwell, a "Father Knows Best" recollection.  Naturally, our lives were more complex than that. There were arguments, losses, At left, Thanksgiving for Keller and Cookie is usually on the road, here in the Bellagio, on the Las Vegas strip. disappointments, illness, sorrow. As I grew older, married and embarked on my newspaper career, there were more empty chairs at the family's home table. The loss of two husbands, three siblings, parents and grandparents has changed my holidays. For Keller and me, Thanksgiving means a trip somewhere. Siblings and friends are scattered across the U.S., so as our Thanksgivings split into smaller groups, not one massive gathering as in days of yore, we hit the road. THIS THANKSGIVING,  we're exploring in Kauai. We'll soon be relaxing with my Georgia sister and brother-in-law, meeting a pair of great nephews, enjoying our southern family. I'm thankful for memories -- corny, sentimental, glorified by time, knighted by my affection for those departed and still on Earth. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, thankful for theater. SO LET US CELEBRATE  friendships and family, those old and deep bonds with people we may not see or talk to except on holidays but hold dear in our hearts and memories.    We're thankful to be fit enough to exercise, walk, travel, explore the world. We're thankful for our recent honeymoon to Europe, and the hope that we have many traveling years ahead. NOW, BOTH Keller and I are orphans, the senior members of our families -- his small one and my giant, scattered clan. We miss our elders and sometimes don't feel ready for our positions. This photo is from Thanksgiving 2021: We'll be back in Atlanta soon to celebrate with David and Misha Minesinger, Georgia based sister and brother-in-law. Our friends feel the same -- all miss their families and carry sentimental memories of Thanksgiving Day. Although I've not been a regular church goer for decades, I always play this wonderful old Dutch hymn on the nearest piano -- whether on a ship, or a host's home Thanksgiving on the Napali Coast, 2022. Give thanks for the beauty of nature. We gather together to ask the Lord’s blessing He chastens and hastens His will to make known; The wicked oppressing now cease from distressing; Sing praises to His Name; He forgets not His own. FOR ALL our blessings, I am thankful: health, travel, music, nature, friends, family. In my heart, I have Thanksgiving 365 days a year. Richmond's Georgian Theatre Royal in Richmond, Yorkshire, is England's longest running theater, dating to 1899, with a few years of silence during the war and when the building served other purposes. It is beautifully restored and a grand, popular venue. UP NEXT : Richmond's Theatre Royal is the oldest still operational theater in England, a charming, small venue where regular performances and concerts are held as they have been since 1899.  Known officially as the Georgian Theatre Royal, it opened with "As You Like It" and continues to offer classical works, concerts and a variety of productions including a recent sold-out presentation of  "The Buddy Holly Story." We sat for a few minutes in the "Royal Box" where we admired the stage and house of the country's oldest working theatre in its original form. It is both a thriving community playhouse and a living theater museum. Remember to explore, learn, live!

Vintage autos from an impressive, world-class private collection, are wowing visitors in Malaga's auto museum. Cookie -- under-dressed -- finds herself in a wondrous collage of color. LUXURY MEETS ART AND FASHION IN MALAGA'S UNIQUE CAR, GOWN DISPLAY  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PICTURE YOURSELF in a sleek Bugatti or elegant Bentley, motoring to the opera or an exclusive cocktail party. Each of 10-plus auto exhibit areas is accented by vintage clothing, accessories, artwork and descriptions of the era in this artful museum. You must have the proper attire -- something elegant to match your fashionable transport. No worries if you were alive in the gilded era -- when autos were works of art, money no object, and wealthy men and women dressed to the nines. We spent a delightful afternoon in the museum-friendly city of Malaga, Spain, where one of its latest jewels is the fantastic Museu Automovilistico. Bruce Keller takes a close-up look and pictures himself behind the wheel -- vrooooom, vroooooom, vroooooooom. Housed in a stately historic building, an old tobacco factory, the museum opened in 2010, drawing raves and shrieks of delight from both auto buffs and fans of fashion. THE MUSEUM  houses the private collection of Portuguese car fanatic, collector and investor Joao Magalhaes. His impressive collection is valued at over 25 million euros, and is one of the most important vintage car collections in the world. The museum houses 80 vintage and modern cars, artistically arranged with fashionable gowns and unusual travel memorabilia from the Roaring Twenties, on into the 1930s, '40s and '50s. Finery and furbelows, flouncy, sleek, ornate and fun, are beautifully displayed at the museum. An elderly fellow tourist enjoying the museum during our visit remarked that the first car in the exhibition is so old it looks more like a horse-drawn carriage --  minus the horse.  My husband pointed out its tiny motor, which put her into a reverie, remembering travel in her grandparents' car decades ago.  WE FELT definitely under-dressed, a bit like misappropriated extras in "The Great Gatsby" as we wandered through nearly a dozen breathtaking displays. Each one artfully takes up a theme and an era -- Belle Epoque, Art Deco Thirties, Dolce Vita Fifties, English Tradition, etc.   The variety of splendid attire would be the envy of any theater's costume shop -- from vintage apparel of our great-grandparents' youth, to more contemporary and timeless clothing. The cars follow suit -- from that early "horseless carriage" to an "alternative energies" exhibit with a space-age solar-powered model.  While it is attractive it is not nearly as exotic, as the custom Rolls-Royce with its beautifully festooned crystals. Each display area showcases autos, along with artifacts, art and finery. WE ADMIRED  flashy cars with flames painted along the sides and powerful sound systems. We wandered by gorgeous autos owned by stars, royalty and the rich and famous -- Bugatti, Auburn, Bentley, Jaguar, Ferrari and Mercedes. We enjoyed bling on the costumes and bling on the cars -- lots of gold and plenty of sparkle, including  a ritzy black Rolls-Royce customized with Swarovski crystals.  The beautifully curated auto and fashion museum also boasts vintage posters and artifacts, nicely preserved -- polished collectibles from a bygone age.   IN MUSEUM- loving Spain, Malaga is not the largest city.  But it may have the most impressive variety of world-class museums.  We visited about half of the bounty, including a first rate art museum which focuses on Andalucian art – the Museo Carmen Thyssen. Space age vehicles are also on view, with modern clothing and space wear. When we encore our  Malaga trip we'll visit the highly regarded Wine Museum, where one can learn about Malaga’s own vintages. Besides the Automobile Museum, another impressive private collection resides in Malaga's Glass and Crystal Museum, which also features antique furniture and paintings, all arranged by period. Contemporary art lovers will enjoy Malaga's CAC (Centro de Arte Contemporaneo), Andalucia’s foremost cutting-edge space. And we'll soon be giving a nod to Piccaso, native son, who is immortalized in both a beautiful museum and in his birth home. We're enjoying close-up views of the beautiful grey whale. NEXT UP :  The magnificent grey whales are migrating now and we've been watching them with wonder, off the southern California coast.  More than 20,000 of the graceful creatures pass by our  San Diego base, on a 10,000 mile journey from Alaska to the warm waters of  Baja, Mexico. There they'll give birth and then make the return trip. We're on the scene to share the wonder, so close we can see the barnacles and baleen with which they filter food. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us each weekend for a novel twist on the arts, nature and travel.

The Allen Elizabethan Theatre features a classical setting for three plays each season at Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Three theaters offer a dozen plays for the 2019 season, a far-reaching variety from "Macbeth" to "Hairspray." ASHLAND, OREGON FEATURES WORLD CLASS FESTIVAL, CABARET, FINE HOTELS, LOVELY PARK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Allen Elizabethan Theater will feature "Macbeth" while the Thomas Theatre features "How to Catch Creation." View from a suite at Ashland Hills Hotel, a beautiful way to preface or follow a play.  Rogue Valley surroundings are peaceful and picturesque. SEEING TEN PLAYS  in a week can be a downright dizzying experience. But it's energizing, intriguing, and fun. Ashland, Oregon's world famous Oregon Shakespeare Festival brings out the theater buff in even the unwashed.  But for lifelong devotees, the festival offers a stimulating banquet of delights. For me, the festival represents a half-century plus of family trips to Ashland, to immerse ourselves in world class theater in a setting dear to our collective heart. THANKS TO  an enterprising visionary, Scotsman Angus Bowmer, we frequent the  festival in an arts-friendly, walkable town. Bowmer lived in the Rogue Valley long before World War II, championing theater and building interest in a small offering of plays.  Through his persistence and clever promotion, his 1934 dream became a flourishing festival. Thank the drama gods that clever Bowmer devised a way for the town's popular boxing matches to fund his deeper passion, theater. Today his name graces one The Bowmer Theater lobby readies for a performance. of the festival's three very different venues. The Allen Elizabethan Theatre and Thomas Theatre are the other two venues. Ashland relies on theater to keep its impressive number of shops and restaurants afloat. BELOVED LITHIA  Park near the complex welcomes strollers, who find high-quality buskers entertaining and beautiful birds, trees and water to enjoy. A quality pair of sister hotels leads the parade of fine places to stay: the historic and beautifully appointed Ashland Springs Hotel downtown, and the pretty Ashland Hills Hotel and Suites, a quick mile from the center of the action in a beautiful hillside setting. Strollers in Lithia Park pause to enjoy Bach played by a world class cellist, one of many treats in Ashland. The festival's first production, the bard's "Twelfth Night,"  has been performed many times and Bowmer's shoestring  e nterprise now boasts a budget of more than $40 million. The festival enhances the state's economy, last year contributing more than $128 million. Our family is part of the 88 per cent of theater goers who travel more than 125 miles to attend the Festival. We've chatted in the Bowmer, beneath a portrait of the founder, with friends from our two favorite hotels.  Fellow guests come from as far away as England and Canada, and many U.S. states to the Tony-winning festival. AND WHILE  Shakespeare is still offered -- this season a brilliant "Othello" and "Henry V" -- there are stimulating new plays, and fresh takes on old favorites for 798 performances. This year, we enjoyed a spirited, gay version of "Oklahoma" -- the romances featured two same-sex pairs. Known for its daring casting, OSF's "Oklahoma" featured two same-sex couples. Here Curly talks to Aunt Ellen -- photo courtesy OSF Luna is a relaxing place to unwind for a bite at Ashland Hills Hotel,  with tasty food, pleasant environment.  Curly was a woman and Ado Annie was a guy, Ado Andy. OSF thinks outside the box, pushes the envelope in gender-bending ways, expanding possibilities with interesting ethnic casting and a rejection of cliches and party-line interpretations.  Next season's line-up will offer the Broadway hit "Hairspray" for its musical, and "Macbeth" will be presented in the outdoor theater, along with "All's Well That Ends Well" and a musical "Alice in Wonderland." Cookie enjoys a sip of water from an iconic fountain in the center of Ashland. The water is supposed to be healthy, full of minerals. A DARING,  inventive recent play, "Indecent," which we saw in its world premier at the La Jolla Playhouse, runs in the Bowmer along with "Between Two Knees" in the Thomas. "As You Like It" plays the Bowmer, too." Something old, something new, that's OSF. Backstage tours, lectures, forums, and a popular Green Show enhance.   Oregon Cabaret Theatre offers a pleasant addition to the theater scene in Ashland. For more than three decades, the Cabaret has offered first-rate dinner theater.  Shakespeare one afternoon, a classic drama that evening. Musical theater the next afternoon.  A new, cutting edge play at night, a bite to eat, a rest, another play or two. Members have a beautiful lounge in which to relax and enjoy a beverage and snack. Memberships are as little as $35, a wonderful way to support this imaginative endeavor. DINNER THEATER  is alive and well in Ashland, too.  Oregon Cabaret Theater entertains in an historic, welcoming setting -- with a fine menu and famous desserts. This picturesque little town of Ashland has a thriving dinner theater, one of the country's most successful.  And it performs on Monday when OSF is dark. Steps from the Festival in a beautifully converted church, the Cabaret personifies Ashland's blend of sophistication and appeal. We have been devotees of the Cabaret as long as we've been coming to the Shakespeare Festival.  It never fails to entertain, and the food is delightful. This year's "Picasso at the Lapin Agile" featured a tasty French inspired menu.  The holiday show looks wonderful and the run has just been extended. The cabaret -- like Ashland itself -- satisfies both town and gown tastes, delighting all the senses. osfashland.org .; theoregoncabaret.com ; ashlandhillshotel.com ; ashlandspringshotel.com Cookie, right in the red plaid, and her niece, Amarylla, with her two youngsters, James and Peny, enjoy Filoli. UP NEXT:  Filoli is decked out for the holidays. The extraordinary country house south of San Francisco is set in 16 acres of formal gardens on the eastern slope of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The house is celebrating the season with color and light and a fresh new take on holiday decor in every room. The spectacular gardens are open during this magical time with special holiday touches by day and elegant lighting in the evening. Find out who owned this magnificent estate and how a visit has become such a popular tradition for thousands in the Bay Area and beyond. Artisan markets and entertainment, delightful food and even horses make an outing a family friendly event. Nest Café.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and living outside the box.

Jungle Queen is an institution in Fort Lauderdale, a beloved icon of the city and a four-generation enterprise.  She's "reinvented" her evening cruise, dinner and show on a private island. Delightful!  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers transit the waterways of Fort Lauderdale on water taxis & Jungle Queen . JUNGLE QUEEN IS 'REIMAGINED' WITH NEW DINNER SHOW PLUS FUN ON THE TOWN'S WATER TAXI   Fort Lauderdale's unique water taxi service is a delight, offering a relaxing, enjoyable way to reach many locales.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE LOVE Fort Lauderdale, that seductive southern Florida city long beloved by the rich and famous.  Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz had a bungalow there. Superstar Jennifer Lopez and retired  NBA star Shaquille O'Neal both own  luxurious waterfront properties with six bedrooms, eight bathrooms and impressive outdoor pools.  Movie, sports and music stars own lavish homes with opulent dining rooms, Olympic size swimming pools, spas and outdoor kitchens as big as most peoples' homes.  Many stars and sports figures keep yachts here.  Stephen Speilberg's was anchored near our hotel. If you're flush, you can rent it for $1 million a week.  Fun sights abound along Fort Lauderdale's waterways. We enjoy playing tourist, admiring these homes again and again aboard Fort Lauderdale's Water Taxi.  We also enjoy Jungle Queen with its fun entertainment, waterways tour and revamped dinner show at its private island. We booked the "full Monty" including cruise, dinner and show. JUNGLE QUEEN  is one of South Florida’s best-known attractions, and recently debuted its new river cruise  and island experience.  It's called “Ignite the Night." The moniker derives from fire torches waved artfully about in Jungle Queen's Polynesian show which follows a tasty island inspired dinner. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers aboard Jungle Queen for a lively evening on land and water. WE VISITED with other tourists after boarding near the Bahia-Mar Yachting Center. Libations in hand, we began a lively 90-minute sightseeing cruise along the New River past luxurious homes and the eye-catching downtown of Fort Lauderdale. Thousands have enjoyed Jungle Queen dinner cruises since the family owned company was born in 1935.   The evening's tropical isle visit is a tourist must with its entertaining Polynesian show and time to enjoy the gardens, birds and other wildlife. One may book the sightseeing cruise only if dinner and entertainment seem too much, but the four hours of the combined event offer a good deal for a family gathering or date night. This pelican is ready for Jungle Queen to depart.   We like to stay at the well located Hotel Bahia Mar on Seabreeze Blvd., a Hilton Doubletree.  We enjoy it because it's an easy walk to both Jungle Queen and Fort Lauderdale's famed Water Taxi dock, so we don't need to rent a car.  Once on board the spiffy Jungle Queen, we relaxed for a 90-minute sightseeing cruises along the New River past luxurious homes and downtown Fort Lauderdale. Jungle Queen entertains a mix of people enjoying lovely homes, a clientele from around world.   The interesting commentary of the rich and famous and their homes is followed by arrival on the island.  Then the feast begins.  Drinks are available here and on the boat, from simple house wines to signature concoctions. There's time to wander, admire the trees and flowers, and an area devoted to the place's interesting history.  Don't miss this fascinating display of memorabilia -- pictures and mementos -- when you get to the island. The Polynesian show is one of the most lively we've seen and we've seen dozens of them in Hawaii, Fiji, Samoa and elsewhere.  This one is first-rate, with  hula and fire dancers, fire eaters and more, expertly presented by Drums of Polynesia.  IF YOU  tried Jungle Queen a few years ago, it's time to revisit the evening because you'll see an entirely new show. The Jungle Queen's private island is beautifully landscaped and aglow with lights to highlight elaborate gardens.   Says third-generation president Michael Faber. “We are excited that we've taken the evening in a new direction." He calls the show, "a new, reimagined Jungle Queen experience. Times and tastes change, and today’s audiences want something new." SO THE  old-fashioned Polynesian island show of yore has a new look, and is now what many consider one of the world's best. The Polynesian show equals ones we've seen in the South Pacific, with authentic dancers, fine musicians and traditional hula garb. The new adventure starts at 6 p.m. with the hour-long narrated sightseeing cruise. We joined 385 other passengers as we traveled down Fort Lauderdale’s New River and the Intracoastal Waterway, nicknamed “The Venice of America” The four-hour dinner and show ticket includes a tropical isle visit, a satisfying meal including chicken, ribs and all the fixings, and high quality island entertainment. We've seen dozens of shows in Fiji, the Hawaiian and Cook Islands.  We were surprisingly pleased with the high quality of this show.  It is respectful and lively, an authentic homage to the Pacific Islanders and their colorful songs, dances and religion. FOR YEARS, we've enjoyed   Fort Lauderdale's Water Taxi can take you many places. Beautiful waterfront homes are part of the allure of a water taxi ride. Jungle Queen also offers a waterways tour with options . Fort Lauderdale's unique Water Taxi system which offers 20 stops ranging from high-end shopping areas to seafood  restaurants, a lovely state park and a variety of bars, museums, galleries and historic sites. It's a lovely way to transit a beautiful city whether you're looking for a beverage at  Margaritaville, a souvenir to take home or a stroll along the gorgeous winding Riverwalk.  We always enjoy this easy going and relaxed mode of revisiting the highlights of the city. Aboard both water taxi and Jungle Queen, one may contemplate the city's history, beauty and attractions while watching its vibrant water life pass by. junglequeen.com watertaxi.com  *************************************************************************  Bruce Keller is "no hands" but Cookie Meyers isn't quite ready for that. Join the couple next week for a Segway adventure in Fort Lauderdale. NEXT UP :  Now that we've journeyed around Fort Lauderdale by water, we explore this inviting Florida city by land.  Not just any land transport, but a Segway tour! If you've been afraid to try a Segway, you're not alone. But our chief writer and editor, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, is a reformed Segway coward and born again Segway enthusiast, thanks to a wonderful guide and a beautiful venue. Enjoy Fort Lauderdale's pleasures on land next time, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, art, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

When the hotel siren sings seductive songs, answer the call and book yourself in! Las Vegas has some of the world's top hotels, and the Strip is home to many of them.   Our travelers like hotels  that reflect their cities. Here, gaudy glitter appeals -- as shown by New York New York's mimicking skyline. Today, we begin a three-part look at some of our favorite hotels, highlighting a few of the world's top ranked properties, and why they appeal. The series continues with our next two posts. Remember to explore, learn and live, and visit us Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I LOVE  a grand hotel. Give me a room with a view, a comfy king bed, tasteful decor with eye-catching art and 24-hour room service. Slippers, a robe, deep bathtub, wine chilling and I'm in heaven. The Spanish Steps in Rome drew our travelers to the Hassler. My love affair with fine hotels began as a teen when my grandmother invited me to spend the night at the Northern Hotel in Billings.  I remember plush red velvet curtains in the dining room -- giving it the look of a bordello (although I didn't know what bordellos were in those days). The ambiance was romantic and although I was too young to appreciate that aspect of grand hotels, I drank it in.  Couples danced to jazz in the bar where we had a drink -- cokes for me and my sister, bourbon for Gran. An organist played tango music in the lobby as we entered the elevator and as we stepped into the suite, we delighted in fresh flowers, a huge bathroom, separate sitting area and chocolates on the pillow. MY GRANDPARENTS  were regulars at the hotel and the manager made certain we were upgraded. The sleek Altis Belem in Lisbon is a  stylish, contemporary hotel within walking distance to the Belem Tower, a Lisbon landmark. A welcoming outdoor cafe beckons guests to drink in the waterfront air. So there we three were, perusing the room service menu in the Northern, having a slumber party in our robes. Gran, my sister Peny and I ordered French dip sandwiches, shrimp cocktail, fruit platters and creme brule. We watched TV until midnight -- "Seventy-Seven Sunset Strip" -- and nibbled on our room service.   After a day of music lessons and a matinee (it was "Psycho," and the infamous Bates Motel bore no resemblance to our palatial digs in the Northern) we lazed about. THAT WAS in the early 1960s, and in the 50 years since then, I've developed a "10 Best Hotels." My ranking system is purely personal and entirely subjective.  I consider my initial impression and the treatment we receive at registration.  I consider my first impression of the hotel's design -- is the art tasteful and calming. Does the room provide a view -- of the park, the ocean, or something equally pleasing. Does the bellman offer to bring ice right away? Barcelona's famous Sagrada Familia is a reason to pick a hotel within walking distance. IS THE CONCIERGE  available for booking theater tickets or city tours? If we're on a club floor, are there liberal hours, with breakfast and afternoon hors d'oeuvres. If we're in a new city or unknown part of town, safety is a consideration. I want a coffee maker with good coffee, a newspaper delivered in the morning and left discreetly out the door.  I want a robe and slippers, a good restaurant within the hotel or within easy walking distance, a frig for chilling the wine, a big bathtub for soaking.  I ask for a map at registration and determine if we can easily and safely walk to the beach, park, theater, festival, museum or bistro. (In Ashland, Oregon, the Ashland Springs is a block from the three-theater Oregon Shakespeare Festival.) I love neighborhoods, and hotels with character make themselves part of the neighborhood. We were steps from the Gaudi House and Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona's Ayre Hotel and could gaze daily at their intricate mosaics. In Las Vegas, I like to look down on the strip,  watching the New York Skyline light up or strolling a few blocks to gaze upon the Eifel Tower, Vegas style of course. Rome's fabled Trevi Fountain is walking distance from the famous Hassler Hotel, which attracts our travelers for its elegance and proximity. MY FAVORITE  hotels have unique features, charming touches, special appeal.. The Dorchester in London was a favorite of Elizabeth Taylor's. Rock stars and classical musicians love it. Members of the Royal Family have wined and dined in its glamorous banquet rooms. Hyde Park is across the street and Mayfair with its shops and eateries awaits. The Hotel Westminster in Paris has location in spades - - you're out the door a few blocks to the magical monuments and museums of Paris. The Le Meridien Bora Bora has bungalows on the water with glass floors for viewing manta rays and brightly colored schools of fish. The hotel says, "You're in French Polynesia now.  Relax, enjoy." The Ashland Springs Hotel in Ashland, Oregon, is steps away from the city's internationally known Oregon Shakespeare Festival. The Grand Hyatt Sao Paulo has the feeling of Brazil in its native inspired artwork and an international clientele to appreciate its woodwork and service. The Hassler in Rome atop the Spanish Steps has proximity to many of Rome's historical delights, including a short walk to the fabled Trevi Fountain.  It also boasts stunning, old-world architecture and is filled with beautiful tapestries, fountains and paintings. Just a pleasant taxi ride out the door of Sao Paulo's elegant Grand Hyatt, Cookie and Keller enjoy the market. I like hotels that reflect their city's environment. In Lisbon, we love the Altis Belem, for its gorgeous harbor view on the Tagus River and its contemporary design. It's also a short walk to the Belem Castle and Monument of Discoveries, both world landmarks. The Altis Belem exhibits the city's rich connection to the sea. The Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Bangkok displays fine taste and elegance with a tux-clad string quartet in the lobby. The 1904 Gaudi House in Barcelona is a draw to our travelers, who chose a nearby, elegant hotel. In Teton Village, closer to home, the Alpenhof offers old-world service in a spectacular setting. Alpine inspired paintings and a gourmet breakfast are two of the enticements, along with genuinely friendly welcome. When people say, "Who cares where we stay? We're never in our room," I disagree. I spend hours in my room.  It's part of my vacation. I care very much where I stay. I want my hotel to be beautiful, full of charm and beauty, reflective of the culture of the city it inhabits. COMING  SATURDAY : More about why we like specific hotels and what entices us and keeps us loyal. Location, location, location is part of the charm. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us our Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Oversized European soaking tubs, eco-friendly products, robes and slippers await at Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle. Room with a view, attentive staff, location, amenities all figure in choosing your hotel   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A five-star hotel should offer uniqueness and elegance. GOOD HOTELS  are plentiful. Grand hotels are not. Truly "great hotels" have elegance and uniqueness, eccentricities and special touches that make us feel pampered. Perhaps a rooftop terrace with stunning panorama, beautiful tapestries, eye-catching doors, spacious bedrooms with good reading lights a separate sitting area, original works of art, and luxurious courtyards or lobbies. Spectacular views and individual glass-floor bungalows over the water make Le Meridien Bora Bora a  prestige hotel. They should reflect the culture of their region.  In Turkey, you'll want to be reminded of the Ottoman influence with brass beds and plush carpets. In French Polynesia, the island life and creatures of the deep should be emphasized.  In Rome, Florence, Paris, London, Madrid or Barcelona, you'll want to feel the blend of history and style. The balance of old-fashioned luxury with a relaxed atmosphere is not easily accomplished, but top hotels achieve it. THE CACHET  of a four or five-star hotel has to do with what it offers and how it delivers. WHAT DETERMINES  a top hotel and what are a few of our favorites?  How are they rated? Barcelona's famous Sagrada Familia in its Gothic glory is within walking distance of a range of quality hotels. Hotels are generally ranked from one-star -- the simplest accommodation -- to five-star, which implies luxury, superlative service, and the highest standards of comfort. Five-star hotels offer originality in architecture and design, high-grade materials in construction and decor (marble bathrooms, antique furniture) and special touches such as fresh flowers and plants.  Style must not trump substance. Fine hotels court the traveler, just as cruise ships attract with their distinctive style, amenities and design features. AS WITH  the world's top cruise lines -- Crystal, Oceania, Seabourn for example -- prestige hotel properties maintain a high staff-to-guest ratio, gourmet dining, and 24-hour room service. Guest rooms offer ample space, fine furnishings and decor, premium bedding, and luxury bath products. Room amenities  generally include high-speed Internet access and CD and/or DVD players. Many five-star resorts offer additional recreation facilities such as tennis courts, golf-course access, spa services, a top-notch fitness center, and pools. Fine hotels in Europe's ancient cities often tout proximity to famous landmarks, such as Rome's iconic Trevi Fountain. Rome's best hotels are located within easy walk to its historical sights and ancient public fountains. THE TERM "five star hotel" is associated with the ultimate luxury and, by implication, expense. We've stayed in plenty of three- and even some two-star hotels, which can be good finds with convenient locations and period architecture.  In Rome, for instance, the Accademia is delightful.  Owned by a small group, Travelroma, it is a pretty little boutique hotel near Trevi  Fountain.  For about 60-100 Euros more, you may choose the five-star Eden, a quick stroll to the famous Via Veneto. The Trastevere is two-star in the lively Trastevere district of Rome, with 20 small and pretty rooms. San Francisco's Hotel Diva near Union Square, offers style, pet and kid focus and  a sense of playfulness in decor. THE OMNI  in Los Angeles blends old-world elegance with modern amenities, as befitting Los Angeles. In San Francisco, Hotel Diva boasts  style and personality in spades -- and dog friendly rooms for Nick and Nora.  The three-star Scalinata di Spagna in Rome sits at the top of the Spanish Steps near Keats' house, has charming rooms and a picturesque rooftop garden.  So do your shopping. The hotel business suffers from a lack of standardization which allows marketing-driven inflation.  A few hotels claim six stars and a distinctive Dubai Hotel, the Burj al- Arab, promoted  itself as "the world's first seven-star hotel" for a time. The distinctive shape of Burj al-Arab attracts Dubai's international clientele. WELL ESTABLISHED prestige hotels are usually content to claim the traditional five. There's actually no international ratings body, so hotels can claim as many stars as they like. That's where homework comes in.  Check references, as you would when hiring.  To achieve the five-star standard, a property must be consistently good over a long period. Hotel reviewers and travel professionals who rank hotels look for these winning qualities:  discreet and attentive service, complimentary house car and VIP transfer services, personalization -- "getting to know you" touches such as remembering your name, excellent bed with support a high-thread count sheets such as Frette. (Ritz-Carlton, Grand Hyatt, Sofitel and Four Seasons are excellent.) Grand Hyatt Sao Paulo in Brazil offers roomy elegance. ALSO IMPORTANT  to critics are the property's food, drink and room service (a buffet breakfast included in the price is a draw). A good in-room coffee maker is desirable. A room with a view is a big draw -- here of Sao Paulo lit up at night. And my personal pet peeve is powdered creamer. Awful.  I love finding small half-and-half containers in the mini bar. A comfy bathroom is important and I enjoy finding luxurious, eco-friendly amenities such as offered in Seattle's "green thinking" Pan Pacific Hotel -- along with slippers, robes, flowers, soaking tub and spectacular Space Needle views. PEOPLE WHO  travel with pets or children are being increasingly courted by the hotel industry. The travelers' male Yorkie, Nick, enjoys his stay at the Omni Los Angeles. Omni Hotels offer pet floors and many boutique hotels pamper your pooch with gifts and treats. The Los Angeles Omni brought a bag of goodies and a pretty little stainless steel water bowl for our Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Four Seasons is kid friendly. Children can feed the koi in Bali's Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. AN ATTENTIVE  concierge is essential. During our annual pilgrimage to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Gigi, at the lovely boutique inn, Ashland Springs Hotel, helped us choreograph dinners and tickets to the popular Chocolate Festival. I plan most of our trip details myself, but when I need an efficient concierge, I want someone who can score a last-minute theater ticket, as our concierge at Hotel Diva did in a  recent San Francisco stay. Rome's many piazzas and baroque showpieces are within walking distance of  its myriad hotels.  MANY GREAT  cities, such as Barcelona, offer an enticing array of variously "starred" hotels -- we've enjoyed the Ritz Carlton Arts, Majestic, Hilton, Princess and others. Decide what you want then see which one delivers it to your personal desires. I'm not much of a poolside basker, but pools are important in the tropics and in many of the world's great locales. Le Meridien Bora Bora has one of the prettiest, if you can pull yourself away from your glass floor view of the wonders of underwater life. JUST AS  Rome wasn't built in a day, top rankings don't  materialize overnight. The hotel industry knows that a property must earn its kudos. It also knows that negative word of mouth can have a devastating effect.  Most professionals agree that quality, service and consistency are primary considerations, but that all the extras count. The attractive Alpenhof Lodge in Teton Village is up next. COMING WEDNESDAY:   Our look at top hotels continues with a visit to Teton Village and its Alpenhof Lodge, which combines old-world European service with fine food, quaint rooms, friendly staff, mountain setting and an appealing full breakfast in a nicely decorated room with a view. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Honolulu's Waikiki Beach hotels are introducing new hygiene measures.  The major brands are all developing programs to insure that people who brave the world of travel are as safe and protected as possible in these stressful times. ROAD TRIPPING HAZARDS ARE LESSENED BY CONSCIENTIOUS HOTEL PROTOCOL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and hotel marketing departments Hotels are raising their sanitation standards to meet COVID-19. Closets will be disinfected in many U.S. properties. TRAVEL IS ALREADY  entering a brave new world, and the hotel industry is making sweeping changes (no pun intended) in its hygiene protocol. So say goodbye to breakfast buffets and bellhop service, and get ready for temperature screening and keyless check-in. Even before they travel, guests will find a new landing page at many hotels, detailing what they can expect during their stay. Property websites are updated as new cleaning protocols and procedures are implemented.  If your hotel offers valet parking, the attendant will be masked. According to Riverton, Wyo., Hampton Inn and Suites general manager Ryan Preston, his property is one of Hilton's 6,000-plus properties and 18 brands promising state of the art clean stays for guests willing to travel in these trying times. "We have partnered with RB -- makers of Lysol and Dettol -- to deliver an even cleaner stay for our guests," says Preston, noting that Hilton's standards are widely respected in the industry.  The popular chain has created the Hilton CleanStay program which Preston says builds on Hilton's already rigorous cleaning standards. "We want people to have complete peace of mind when they stay with us," he says, promising "the same level of reliable and friendly service you’d expect from Hilton,  but with the added confidence of industry-leading hygiene practices to keep travelers safe." Besides Hilton, Wyndham, Marriott, Choice Hotels, InterContinental and Hyatt are also developing extreme hygiene protocol. PANDEMIC-ERA  policies are being developed internationally at hotels around the globe. They will vary, but it's safe to say that guests worldwide will notice huge changes the next time they check in anywhere. Heightened cleaning protocols are in place in many properties for high-traffic areas such as the front desk, fitness centers and pools, as well as other high-touch surfaces in the hotel. Hilton is using hospital-grade disinfectant approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to combat the spread of the virus.  A housekeeping “on-demand” option is being introduced in many places.  Guests who desire no one else enter the room can request delivery of additional toiletries, towels, linens or coffee without having a housekeeper enter. They'll be placed outside in sterile wraps. Many hotel restaurants as they reopen will feature socially distanced tables, and separate paneled cubicles to keep guests apart. BREAKFAST  buffets are a popular feature in many hotels. There will be massive changes there as well as in food service in general. Buffets will be replaced with pre-packaged breakfast items and grab-and-go options.  Tables and chairs will be spaced to ensure proper physical distancing. Biodegradable, disposable dishes and utensils will be available upon request. MANY HOTELS  have discontinued room service, but where it is provided, guests will experience contactless delivery, with orders and single-use service ware placed outside the guestroom door. Pools will be frequently cleaned, and numbers of guests will be limited around the pool area, to observe distancing. Masks will also be required. Hilton is proud of its new "no contact" arrival experience.  Guests can check in, choose their room, unlock the door with a digital key and check out using their mobile devices, through a free Hilton Honors mobile app. This option is available at more than 4,700 participating Hilton properties worldwide for guests who book direct via the Honors app or at Hilton.com .  For guests who prefer a traditional check-in, physical distancing measures will be in place directing guests on how to move through the in-person check-in and check-out process in a safe way. ENTERING THE  room will be a departure from what we've come to know. Hotel housekeepers in the major chains are using hospital-strength disinfectants to clean. At Hilton, the first point of contact with the guest room will be with a Hilton CleanStay room seal, placed on the door after the room is thoroughly cleaned. The service person will have used extra disinfectant on the most frequently touched guests room areas – light switches, door handles, TV remotes, thermostats and more. Guest rooms will be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected between guests, doubling the measures of pre-Covid times. ALL MAJOR  chains are revamping their public spaces, with socially-distanced furniture and increased cleaning. Some fitness centers will be closed for cleaning multiple times daily.  Equipment will be properly adjusted and placed to enable physical distancing, and the number of guests will be limited. Pools and pool areas will be cleaned frequently throughout the day, and physical distancing measures will be in place there, too. Stations with hand sanitizer and disinfecting wipes will be available throughout the property at entrances and in key high traffic areas. MARRIOTT IS  combating the virus with its new Global Cleanliness Council which, like Hilton and other major chains, requires the use of “hospital-grade” disinfectants in public spaces and guest rooms. Hilton Palm Springs is among the many Hilton brand properties with an ambitious new hygiene protocol  in place for travelers.  www.hilton.com Hyatt's program is called its Global Care and Cleanliness Commitment, using a cleaning, disinfection and infectious-disease-prevention accreditation program. By September, the brand also plans to staff hotels with  a trained "hygiene manager." That person will oversee more-frequent hotel cleanings, make sure hand sanitizer is easily available for guests and employees  and distribute masks to staff, among other duties. Brave new world indeed. Montana's rivers are one of its most seductive attractions.  We're fortunate to have the West Fork of the Stillwater River nearby, and the source of the Stillwater within an easy drive, for beautiful hiking and picnicing. UP NEXT : Back in Montana! With masks in tow and cooler packed to avoid unnecessary human whereiscookie.com contact, we made it from San Diego to Montana in a leisurely four days, staying in safe, sparkling clean Hilton properties (see above for their state-of-the-art hygiene protocol.) We'll share our re-entry to The Treasure State, "Big Sky Country," as A.B. Guthrie aptly named it.  Masking, distancing, and dealing with COVID-19 has changed our Montana experience.  But we're finding both friends and strangers are mostly masking and treating one another with the respect this critical time demands. We'll report on our trip and share Montana photos and observations. Remember to explore, learn and live, and please wear a mask. Catch us each Friday for a new take on travel, the arts, nature, family and more at

The Murray's classic style includes nods to Montana and the west, with a contemporary flair. Elegance, comfort and western suggestions abound, with artful accents. HISTORIC BUILDING OFFERS HISTORY, COLOR, AMENITIES, COMFORT STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF A BUILDING  can give and receive love, then Livingston, Montana's Murray Hotel is a veritable Valentine of mortar, imagination and memories. The venerable historic hotel -- a favorite of my family when I was growing up in the 1950s -- has history, chutzpah and plenty of heart. But by the 1970s, the building had begun to languish.  Built 110 years ago, it needed paint, plywood, carpets, modernized plumbing, and plenty more. Dan and Kathleen Kaul to the rescue. They transformed the four-story building with love and money, tastefully restoring it with a sense of humor and abundant style. "Check your guns at the front desk," the vintage sign suggests. The Murray Hotel is a Livingston icon, with a colorful history and immaculate restoration of its rooms. ONE WELL  known movie director, the late Sam Peckinpah, obviously didn't heed the warning, because the suite he favored still has the bullet holes he shot through the ceiling after, we presume, an ample dose of firewater. Personal touches are part of the landscape and lore of the Murray. Since its grand opening in 1904, the Murray Hotel’s guest registry has read like a who’s who of history and Hollywood. Celebrities such as Buffalo Bill and Calamity Jane have graced the threshold of what was once an elegant railroad hotel. The Murray was also home to Walter Hill, son of railroad tycoon, James J. Hill. More recently, colorful personalities like motion-picture director Peckinpah rented what had been the largest suite in the place, designed for a creature-comfort-loving heir to the Burlington railroad fortune. ROYALTY  have bedded down at the Murray, too. The Queen of Denmark once spent the night, but no one seems to know if she was amused or impressed.  Humorist Will Rogers and his buddy Walter Hill liked the place so well they decided to share its splendor with their favorite saddle horse, hauling him up to a third floor suite, via the hand-cranked, 1905 Otis elevator. WE TRANSPORTED our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, in this delightful vestige of bygone days on a trip to the Murray last week. It was their third or fourth visit to the dog-friendly Murray -- our 15th or so -- and we tried a suite we'd not visited before, one with a pleasant fishing and angling motif. Fishing memorabilia -- part of the charm. Each suite has a different motif. We were on the second floor, and knew we'd hear the railroad whistle a couple times during the night -- the station is just across the street.  But I decided to forego the convenient earplugs, and enjoy the nostalgic sound of the freight trains.  No problem.  I liked it, having grown up with that comforting and musical sound.. Look closely and you'll see two Yorkshire terriers cuddled in the tapestry and armchair. We also wanted to watch Ken Burns' magnificent "Roosevelts" series on PBS.  No problem.  We had a fine TV, comfy chairs and a frig for chilling our wine.  Many of the suites have microwaves and frigs since some are designed as condos and privately owned.  When the owners aren't visiting, the public is welcome to enjoy. Our fisherman's suite had all kinds of angler's memorabilia -- a poster on dozens of trout, paddles artfully arranged on the wall, fishing signs, and beautiful pillows and tapestries of fish, bears and birds of the northern Rockies. THE KAULS'  sense of community pride is apparent at other places in Livingston.  The enterprising couple has purchased many buildings and rentals, owns a tasteful furniture store with beautiful western and log tables, chairs and more, and they have restored and refurbished rentals. But the Murray is the most visible and ambitious of their endeavors. THEIR CAPABLE,  well trained staff will gladly guide you to one of Livingston's eateries, including the next-door Second Street Bistro, with its extensive wine list. gourmet appetizers and inventive main course offerings.  The Bistro was packed inside and at the streetside cafe tables. And on the hotel's other end, the Murray Bar was packed, too, with live country and rock music, and a crowd of locals and tourists enjoying the fishing lore on the walls and reasonably priced cocktails and beer. THE MURRAY is proud of its celebrity roster -- those famous folks who have shared space and rubbed elbows with cowpokes, railroaders, and other travelers and locals. Livingston continues to attract a steady stream of writers, musicians, movie stars and history lovers. A fellow writer stopped us in the parking lot to admire Nick and Nora.  He knew they were named after the famous husband-wife detective team of "The Thin Man." Myrna Loy, a native Montanan, and William Powell, played the dapper Nick and Nora Charles. The California man, who was working on a piece on historic U.S. hotels for a guidebook, said, "Ah, it's good to know we have Mr. and Mrs. Charles in residence." COMING UP:  Rip roarin' fun awaits the theater lover at the Jackson Hole Playhouse, where "Paint Your Wagon" is packing in appreciate houses. More about this historic, nearly century-old venue. And we're on to the Wapiti Valley, a last gasp for autumn in the Tetons and more.  We strive for a sense of fun and discovery in our pieces!  Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at   www.whereiscookie.com