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An enthusiastic sportsman does a flip from a wakeboard behind a ski boat on Lake Tahoe. The beautiful background of mountains and trees forms a picture-perfect shoreline. Views from hotels in the Lake Tahoe area usually have spectacular views of lake, water,    ONCE THE FIRES ARE CONTAINED,  TAHOE AND TRUCKEE OFFER ACTION, OR PEACEFUL GET-AWAYS -- BY LAND, LAKE  MOUNTAINTOP -- STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Eateries satisfy every taste, and many offer views of the spectacular water.  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A breathtaking sunset before the latest fires near Lake Tahoe draws the eye to the lake and surrounding woods, now in a blaze of fire and smoke. WHETHER YOUR ideal holiday is action packed, or simply soaking up the scenery with a cup of tea or glass of wine, you'll find both options in North Lake Tahoe and everything in between in the towns of Lake Tahoe and Truckee. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers take in Lake Tahoe at least once a year. here, they are in the woods near the lake. TAHOE IS KNOWN for its steep granite cliff sides,  towering mountaintops, plus crystal-clear waters. This enticing combination earns the Tahoe area an international reputation with boaters, sailors, and water sports enthusiasts of all kinds.  The North Lake Tahoe area features a large, beautiful freshwater lake in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, straddling the border of California and Nevada. As in Vegas, the south shore casinos are open 24-7, but in Tahoe you'll likely have a view of the mountains -- not the wall -- when you take a break from the blackjack table.  Dining options abound from American to Chinese, Japanese to Vietnamese, and Italian, Greek and Thai. With a nod to its place in the west, you'll also find plenty of burger and steak options. IF YOU'RE looking for glitz, glamor and nightlife, the south shore of the lake is where you'll want to locate. The casinos are clean and most have smoke-free areas.  While there is not the multitude of shows one finds in Las Vegas, there's plenty to choose from -- comedy, live music, variety, and some decent bands for dancing. A stately home  in Tahoe's Incline Village. THE SIGNIFICANT difference between north and south Tahoe is in the bars and restaurants.  The south shore has plenty of both, many with live music.   The north is quieter, more laid-back, home to a more sedate community of full-time residents and wealthy "second home" people.  Tourists who stay here seek a more scenery-oriented country vacation experience. North shore towns are are smaller and more sedate, with businesses and eateries closing earlier than in the south. Small towns such as Incline Village offer beautifully landscaped residential areas and some palatial  private homes, many with boat houses and staff to run their high-end digs.  The scenery is spectacular. Fans of winter and cold-weather sport  will find plenty of options in that area, too.  LAKE TAHOE  is known for its beaches and ski resorts. Truckee is known for its logging, ice harvesting, the Emigrant Trail, and the tragic journey of the Donner Party, which spent a horrific winter struggling to survive and starving in the Sierra Nevada. We discovered new detail about their fascinating story at the well designed Donner Memorial State Park museum and Pioneer Monument. Hit the casinos or plan a dinner cruise on a river boat. Read a book with a view of the lake. Take to a rental boat, or grab your binoculars and take a bird watching hike. The area offers something for everyone. For more information or to help plan a stay: www.visitinglaketahoe.com UP NEXT : As summer winds down, we're celebrating labor as we've witnessed it these past months of  pandemic purgatory. Labor Day, 2021, is a time for us to express our gratitude to all those who have bravely entered into the work force -- whether in medicine and science, or at hospitals, hotels, malls, restaurants and transportation venues. Celebrating those who labor -- from taxi drivers to front-liners, up next at www.whereiscookie.com   Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more.

Introducing our family to the pleasures of our much loved Hawaii added pleasure to the trip in many ways. Here we are -- Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers, at left, with our Bay Area family, the Ganners: Steve, James, Amarylla and Peny, on the shores of Hilton's Waikoloa Resort on the Big Island. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE LOVE to travel with our niece, nephew-in-law and their kids. Seeing a new place with a youngster gives an extra kick to all of us. Kids give you a perspective you may not have had -- or one you lost after you "grew up." The innocence and enthusiasm of kids helps you get more bang for your travel buck. And you learn along with them. Kids find ways to explore and enjoy without the constraints imposed by adulthood. Here Peny and James make a game out of hotel yard decor. Traveling with children enriches adult experience Introducing a young person to a familiar beloved city is mind expanding. Taking a child to a theater, aquarium, concert hall, park or museum you love enhances the adult visitor's perception. It's also a chance to teach protocol and proper behavior. Seeing the delight of a child experiencing something new adds to the fun, here feeding fish at Barcelona's aquarium, a way to enrich your own aquarium visit and teach a child about precious sea life. Taking a kid to a palace, formal garden or stately home and introducing the child to tour guides, scholars, musicians and artists inevitably bolsters our own knowledge. It may take time and homework to research and answer a child's questions. The enthusiasm of youth is contagious. It's a joy to watch kids build character and become more courageous, confident and independent as a result of travel and exposure. A trip to Disney World here, or Disneyland in California, or any amusement park is a good way to rediscover the child within. For children, experiencing the inevitable pitfalls of travel is part of the adventure. While we adults might be anxious when we get lost or battle a language barrier, kids usually don't. When we resort to the web to decipher a menu, a child will point to a photo or just jump in and try something new. Children enjoy the challenges and roll with them more easily. We take our great niece and nephew to the circus whenever we can, here in Redwood City, California. TRAVEL ALSO introduces tolerance and acceptance, commodities we all need. As Mark Twain said, travel is the enemy of prejudice, so it's wonderful to watch children enjoy, accept and embrace other cultures. A hula class on the beach with guests from Indonesia, France, Chile and Norway was a highlight for me in Hawaii. What fun to use my college French, and for all of us to learn to hula together. Treasured time was spent with new friends and my niece and grand niece learning, enriching, expanding our global view. The innocence of kids embraces the new, here at Maui's Surfing Goat Dairy where kids meet kids. ******************************************************************************************** Celebrating the holidays in a new place adds dimension. Here, a double rainbow on the Kona Coast of the Big Island made a special New Year's! We take a look next week at what we value during holiday time -- friends, family, travel and extending tolerance and grace. NEXT UP: Christmas and Hanukkah are distinct holidays from different faiths -- Christianity and Judaism. Their dates sometimes overlap due to the different calendars they follow . Often our Jewish friends celebrate Christmas while at the same time, we respect Hanukkah. It began this year at nightfall on Sunday, Dec. 14 and ends on Monday, Dec. 22 this year. As always our Christmas is Dec. 25, which this year we celebrate on a Thursday. While the holidays are always close together, sometimes they coincide as in 2024 when the first night of Hanukkah fell on Christmas Day. That won't happen again until 2035. Meanwhile, we reflect on the importance of respect for one another and various traditions -- both religious and secular. Let's make this holiday season a time to celebrate friendships new and old, family and the joys of travel, nature and life. L'chaim!

San Diego venue plays host to international adventurers A gorgeous, golden afternoon brings out gliders galore to the famed Torrey Pines Gliderport north of San Diego, Calif. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WITH THOUGHTS  of Peter Pan -- or Sally Field in "The Flying Nun," -- I gazed, spellbound, as  a 40-something man took flight. Folks bring chairs and watch the gliders. Our venue was the world famous Torrey Pines Gliderport San Diego, an historic flight park on the ocean's edge, founded in 1928. My "glider guide" was my partner, Bruce Keller, who has more tricks up his sleeve than a Las Vegas magician. Safely on terra firma, these gliders expressed elation at their experience. "I had no idea you knew so much about gliding," I gulped, as we walked to the edge of a cliff and he began to explain wind currents and sail plaining, describing all the necessary gear:  reserve chutes, harnesses, helmets and more. He knows his stuff. I KNEW  Keller spent years navigating the azure Pacific out his back door. He snorkel's, scuba dives, sails and swims.  This fella understands wind, so I should have guessed he also has a handle on flying through the air with the greatest of ease. The Torrey Pines Gliderport in San Diego is an amazing sight, cherished by locals and a popular destination for tourists. Keller has admired it for years and takes pride in its global attraction.  The Torrey Pines cliffs could be dangerous, but skilled gliders navigate them artfully. On our several visits together, we heard French, Italian, German and Japanese, along with the usual English and Spanish spoken in San Diego environs. Gliders float high above the Pacific, and see wonders beneath and all around. We watched as certified instructors coached people from their twenties well into their seventies in the art of flying high by the clouds. I GOT A   crash course in paragliders and hang gliders. Hang gliders have solid wing structures and an aluminum frame, creating a V-shaped wing that resembles a stealth bomber. Paragliders have soft wing structures -- no internal frame.  Once inflated, they take on an elliptical shape. TORREY  Pines, a gorgeous, much photographed and well used scenic area in north La Jolla, is also a favorite of golfers -- you've seen televised tournaments there if you're an aficionado.  The park is also beloved as a fundraising venue.  Many films and commercials have been shot there, because of the stunning scenery.  I watched in wonder as advanced gilders soared over the cliffs and ocean, sweeping magically, then eventually landing in one piece, with a graceful downward or sideways motion. The art is in moving their bodies to bend with the wind and navigating the way they want to. Wind conditions, of course, play a major role in the success of the adventure. Skilled gliders learn how to determine when the wind is best for prime soaring. I THINK  of myself as a fairly gutsy gal, but I fear I haven't the courage to soar with the hawks. For now, I'm content to watch and sigh, eyes heavenward, as the Torrey Pines gliders show me their stuff. I'm no cliff hanger, except as an appreciator.  And count me in as a fan of the Cliff Hanger Cafe at Torrey Pines Gliderport, which serves up yummy sandwiches, soups and salads. If you're braver than this reporter, you can hire certified instructors at the venue, or give a gift A glider lands with grace and ease at Torrey Pines Gliderport, which has been beloved since 1928. certificate to a loved one.  Call 858 452-9858 or go to www.flytorrey.com GLIDING BUFFS  are fit, trim and healthy looking.  And if you're looking for a romantic adventure with your sweetheart, you can fly tandem. What a thought! Keller could nudge me to consciousness if I fainted from terror.   Landlocked for now, Cookie may some day soar with the gliders. Could Nick and Nora come along? I long for the courage to brave it, for it looks like a wondrous pursuit -- the clouds close enough to touch, birds, whales and seals to enjoy, and the Pacific shimmering below. This past spring, we saw the migrating grey whales here, enroute to the Baja to give birth. For now, I'll do my flying in a 747. And my sailing in a boat.  But maybe sometime I'll glide! If not in this life, then in the next! "Uncle Cog," Harry A. Cosgriffe, atop his favorite horse at his Crazy Mountain ranch. COMING SATURDAY :  A tribute to a special uncle, as we attend his classic Montana send-off memorial.  "Uncle Cog" was beloved by many and a weekend celebration to honor his memory included music, prose, flowers, food, dancing, reminiscing, tears and laughter. That's this July at www.whereiscookie.com Then we look at a family's challenge and rewards of nurturing a baby born with a birth defect. It truly takes a village! Plus more travel tips and photography pointers. Tune us in Wednesdays and Saturdays and remember to explore, learn and live.

The magnificent Torrey Pine stands bent and endangered, but still glorious in Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve.   CALIFORNIA RESERVE PROTECTS GLORIOUS BUT ENDANGERED Torrey Pine STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE SPECTACULAR  trees called Torrey Pines are located in a wild stretch of land in southern California appropriately named Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve. Torrey Pines Reserve is a much loved part of the state. The "Coaster" hugs the shore below one of the bluffs. Below, another option for sport above the Pacific. Surfing is popular Torrey Pines where the waves can be perfect. Tourists and locals alike enjoy the sunsets at Torrey Pines. It's become one of my favorite haunts, and I make almost daily visits with Nick and Nora, my aging but still sprightly Yorkshire terriers. We spend an hour or so each morning after I dance at Jazzercise in a nearby venue in DelMar. Then we have a snack and walk on this beautiful reserve located within San Diego city limits, yet a vast, wild stretch of land. SETTLED centuries ago by the Kumeyaay people, this acreage achieved natural reserve status because of its importance in the plant and animal world.  It contains threatened plants, animals, habitats, and unique geological formations. Mostly, it is home to the rare and endangered Torrey Pine. So it is a protected area,  targeted for conservation. Because of the efforts and foresight of the people here, this beautiful 1,500 acres of land is maintained much as it was before San Diego was developed including the maritime chaparral, the rare Torrey pine tree, miles of unspoiled beaches, and a lagoon that is vital to migrating seabirds. a must see stop in San Diego is the Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve Cookie, Nick and Nora enjoy the coast line near home. The world's largest Torrey Pine was planted in 1888 and resides in Carpinteria, California ONE CAN  imagine what California must have looked like to the early settlers, or to the Spanish explorers, or even to the first California. No pine trees then -- but native chaparral and brush.   All the trails here are all well maintained and I see hikers enjoying it daily.  A team of dedicated volunteers offers free guided tours at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. The tour guides give a brief, interesting history of the area and toss in some geology and biology lessons. My native San Diegan partner loves the pines and has told me that they are unique to the area and not found anywhere else in the world. It’s also rumored that Dr Seuss (Theodore Geisel, San Diego resident for many years) frequented the area and found it an inspiration for the drawings in his books. After a day at the beach, these two enjoy the sunset. THE TORREY Pine exists in another place in the state: Carpinteria.  The largest one in the world was brought from Santa Rosa Island in 1888.  Landowner Judge Thomas Ward planted it on his lawn, and when he passed, his widow, Florence, took meticulous care of it, watering and maintaining it every day. Once she realized how much bigger it was getting than the others in the area, she proposed making it an official landmark and eventually the tree received state protection. In 1968 the tree became Carpinteria's first official landmark and celebrated its centennial in 1988. UP NEXT : The internationally known Oregon Shakespeare Festival recently ended an ambitious, near sell-out 2018  season and plans are drawn for the spectacular  2019 season. It's been chosen and it is world class, following the tradition established by OSF's enterprising and determined  founder Angus Bowmer in 1935.  What makes Ashland, Oregon, so special? Take a look at the town with us, and plan your 2019 visit.  The next season opens in March and extends through late October. Cookie and Keller outside the Allen Elizabethan Theatre, Ashland, Oregon.

Julian's famous Julian Cafe and Bakery has delicious pies and ice cream flavors. Here, Cookie shares with Nick & Nora. TRY JULIAN, CALIFORNIA, FOR A RELAXING, SATISFYING WEEKEND IN THE COUNTRY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie's sister, Misha Minesinger, exits cheery Two Sisters Cottage in Julian. THE APPLE CAPITAL of the world has a nice rhyming nickname. It also offers a get-away both soothing and exciting. Julian, California, a small, quaint mountain town in southern California, offers history, fun hotels, shopping, scenery and perhaps the best fruit pies in the state. Man cannot live by pie, alone. There's plenty more to do, though, including the famous fall apple fest. JULIAN'S EAGLE and High Peak Gold Mine affords the opportunity to step back in time into a real gold mine dug out of a mountain with picks and your own pan. Julian has an annual October Apple Festival, celebrating the fruit that keeps people coming back. You can feel your blood pressure dropping on the drive from San Diego to Julian, a small mountain community in Southern California located at the intersection of California highways 78 and 79. It's only about 50 miles northeast of San Diego. The historic town, founded just after the Civil War, is nestled among oak and pine forests between the north end of the Cuyamaca Range and the south slope of Volcan Mountain. JULIAN IS a throw-back to the late 1800s, in many ways. Take out the autos and modern dress and imagine your great-grandparents strolling the streets of Julian. People say hello. Dogs are welcome. The entire township of Julian is a Designated Historical District. Its image as an early California frontier town with pioneer store fronts, historic sites and guided tours of the mines explains its continuing modern appeal. Tourism is Julian's largest industry, followed by cattle. The mine and The apple: Julian's star attraction. California Wolf Center are worth visits. Try a bite! It's heresy not to. Julian pies are known throughout California. There are dozens of places to stay, from the historic downtown hotel with its few, antique-bedecked rooms, to B&Bs, luxury inns and more modest lodgings. We recently enjoyed the Two Sisters Cottage -- apropos of my Atlanta sister's visit! WE HAD cocktails in the large yard, and appreciated that the inn is dog friendly. Two comfy bedrooms and a pleasant kitchen were stocked with pans and tools to prepare a meal! Eagle's Nest Bed and Breakfast is another of our favorites, for its pretty rooms and lovely views. Most of the lodging options, such as the historic Gold Rush Hotel are right in town, Mining lore is one of Julian's attractions, so take the tour! and the rustic and private Julian Pines is close by. You'll want to stop at Julian Pie Co. or any of the other options for sampling the apple and berry pies that make the town famous. STROLLING Julian is fun, too. We shopped for bird houses, chocolate and earrings in the same couple of user friendly blocks. Restaurants and cafes offer plenty of choices for a long weekend. Romano's is a fine, intimate and tastefully decorated Italian restaurant with delicious veal and pasta dishes. On the way home to San Diego, stop for lunch and Dudley's Bread, known throughout California. Two sisters, Misha Minesinger and Cookie Meyers, enjoy time together in Julian, at Two Sisters Cottage JULIAN IS is unique among Southern California communities for its cool-winter climate, ideal for growing apples. Julian apples are sold as pies, cider and whole fruit. Each October, 10,000 apple pies are baked weekly in Julian, when Southern California tourists flock for fall colors, cool breezes, frontier atmosphere and the Apple Festival. ANOTHER NICE aspect to a small town is that you can call the local Chamber of Commerce and get a human being who'll help with lodging or make dining suggestions. We've had good luck on short notice by contacting them at 2129 Main St, Julian, CA 92036, 760 765-1857; www.julianca.com COMING UP: In researching our novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," we drew upon other stories of sharp shooters, including the legendary Annie Oakley, played by dozens of actresses. Remember, carpe diem, so explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends for a fresh look at travel, the arts and contemporary life: www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie cuddles not quite year-old Nick and Nora, after a bath in Davis, California. They were born there, September, 2005  WHAT A DOG, WHAT A LIFE, AS WE SMILE THROUGH OUR TEARS The Yorkshire terrier's small size belies its personality: energetic, spirited, domineering. Yorkies are affectionate. They love attention, a good choice for one who wants to dote on a dog with tenacious personality. Beneath the glossy coat beats the heart of a feisty terrier. --AKC's "Dog Breeds, What Dog For Me?" STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Nora stayed in many hotels in her life, here the Omni Los Angeles. She and Nick were also frequent fliers. SINCE NORA  left us two days ago, we've been touched by loving emails, phone calls, notes on our door. Anyone who has experienced loss feels our pain. Apparently this sweet pup touched many hearts. Endearing, adorable Nick and Nora entered my life nearly 15 years ago, three days after my husband Billy died. His last act during hospice in our Arizona home was to cart his IV into our office to print out the profile of Yorkshire terrier, attached to his hand-written note: "Cookie, this is the dog for you.  Two will fit in a dog carrier. Yorkies are your canine equivalent."  He passed the next morning, Nov. 11, 2005, unaware that six weeks earlier, in Davis, Calif., Yorkies Duchess and Duke became the parents of four pups. My sister Robbie had spirited me off to her Davis home to await Billy's ashes. The year had not been kind.  Besides the recurrence of Bill's cancer, we lost all four of our elderly dogs and my dad Richard died. Our great-niece, Peny, was one of many kids to love Nora; always, she patiently acquiesced. TO BE DOGLESS for the first time in my life, and to lose both my father and second husband, was a heavy burden.  Wise Billy knew I'd need the comfort of canine companionship. Cookie, Nick and Nora at Torrey Pines, a daily ritual after Jazzercise. That Monday morning, sis and I walked her two labs to a nearby park.  A neighbor was playing fetch with his Yorkie.  I petted Charlie and it buoyed my spirits.  Then sis went off to work where she forwarded an in-house email from a colleague. "Two Yorkshire terrier puppies need adoption." The rest, as they say, is history.  My sis, niece Amarylla and her fiance Steve along with great-niece Lucy, met the Yorkies that evening. It was a crazy, loving home with accordions in the living room. My niece's musical fiance, Steve, picked one up. I played a piano tune. We admired and held the pups -- tiny, about six inches long, completely black, less than a pound. Their mother nearly died giving birth and the pups were delivered by Cesarean.   Their lovely colors slowly evolved in their first two years, when I met and fell in love with Bruce William Keller.  His beloved Yorkie, Miss Molly, was his constant companion during his college days at San Diego State Good gig, our dog's life  William Powell and Myrna Loy played Nick and Nora Charles in "The Thin Man," inspiring the pups' names.  University. She was named after the Creedence Clearwater rendition of "Good Golly  Miss Molly" so Keller already loved the breed.  He and the pups quickly bonded and we had many happy times together from Santa Barbara to Boston. Thankful for those memories, I offer Nora's obituary: NORA CHARLES  Jones Meyers crossed the Rainbow Bridge Jan. 29, 2020, after 14-plus years of defying death and enriching lives of her grateful and humbled human companions.  Nora lived large.  Her world was filled with travel, adventure and exotic treats collected by her parents on global travels. Cookie shares ice cream -- their favorite strawberry. She and her twin brother, Nick, were named after those flamboyant fictional characters created by Dashiell Hammett in his novel, "The Thin Man" and made famous by Hollywood. The movie personae were dapper, clever characters, favorites of Cookie, who interviewed the Nora actor, fellow Montanan Myrna Loy. Like their eponyms, Yorkies Nick and Nora were a charming, dashing couple.  They downed Greenies and Nick and Nora stayed in hundreds of hotels, here the Ashland Springs during an annual Shakespeare trek.  rawhide treats instead of martinis but possessed the same flair and allure of the Hollywood couple. Nick and Nora are all eyes to the sky in Santa Barbara. Intrepid and curious explorers, they looked the grim reaper in the eye numerous times, winked at him and sent him packing. Nora lost her spleen in a vicious attack by three off-leash dogs in an Arizona park. She survived a run-in with a wheelchair, and an attack by a ranch dog who mistook her attempts to play as an infringement. The pair bounced back after a fall from a second-story balcony while chasing squirrels. Nora nursed Nick through recovery from a rattlesnake bite that left him nearly blind in his left eye. Nick and Nora preferred warmer climes but played in Montana's snowstorms. Cookie Meyers sailing with Nick and Nora on San Diego Bay. Bruce Keller with Nick and Nora at Oceanside Harbor. Bruce Keller with Nick and Nora at Oceanside Harbor. THEY DEVELOPED an abiding love of culture but despite exposure to highbrow activities -- classical music concerts, art museums, Shakespeare festivals, foreign film marathons -- their tastes included Willie Nelson, Dolly Parton and Lyle Lovett.  They wagged their tales to "How Much Is That Doggie In the Window" by Patti Page.  Their "top ten" recordings also included Cat Stevens' "I Love My Dog," and Baha Men's "Who Let the Dogs Out?" They insisted Ed Sheeran's song, "Shape of You," was written for his Yorkie, not his girlfriend. They accompanied their parents to seven Tony Bennett concerts, including two with Lady Gaga. In short, their artistic bent mirrored that of their mum and dad:  eclectic, universal, diversified. They were also a beloved fixture at plays, writing workshops, yoga class, interviews, shopping treks and Jazzercise. They snoozed patiently on couches or in the Explorer between acts, jaunts and intervals. Nora was amused but puzzled when people compared her to "Star Trek's" Chewbacca. She tolerated observations that "You two look like a pair of koala bears." ("Humans mean well," she told her bewildered brother, reminding him that the koala is a marsupial not a bear, and that the taste of eucalyptus is over-rated.) Nora loved a good road trip to visit cousins, aunties, uncles and admirers in Mendocino, Atlanta, San Francisco, Phoenix, New York, Las Vegas and New Orleans.  Her friends included a gifted Israeli painter who captured the pups on canvas, and fellow Yorkie devotees, a delightful English couple who visited them in Montana.   Nora and Nick logged over 125,000 airline miles and listened to their mother's endless exasperation when the airlines refused to boost her own mileage tally or establish their own account. "Thank you for your humorous letter, but we must deny your request for miles on behalf of Nick and Nora's travel," wrote a customer service agent. Kindly Joe Rosenberg DVM came to our home Tuesday, to help Nora cross the Rainbow Bridge and console her sad parents and brother Nick. NORA SLOWED  down during her last months but still kissed and cuddled. Her parents cut short a trip to be with her on New Years Day when her dog sitter -- worried at her lack of appetite -- took her to her San Diego vet.  A loving neighbor cared for her while we flew home then she spent a week in UC Davis Veterinary Hospital's ICU, enduring tube feedings, IVs and prodding by well meaning personnel who struggled day and night to save her from hopeless kidney failure, They bought us brief, precious time with our cherished friend. Declining food, including her favorite strawberry ice cream, was the death knell for Nora. She'd early on developed a reputation for robust consumption of appetizers ranging from  turkey droppings and deer scat to carcasses of unidentifiable roadkill. ("I may be dressed for black tie dinner, but I do love to snack," she said.) When she could no longer walk-- and she loved to hear that word-- we decided to help her. She passed peacefully with a house call from compassionate vet, Dr. Joe Rosenberg, who consoled Nicky while we wept. We say farewell, not good-bye, and whisper "Ah, dear Nora. You sleep forever in a special corner of our hearts." Her ashes rest in an urn described thus: "Nora: she lived life to her Yorkie fullest." Go In Peace is recommended for its compassionate end-of-life care, complete with a ceramic paw print and a lovely wooden box for precious ashes.  Dr. Joe Rosenberg: www.goinpeacesd.com www. vetmed.ucdavis.edu/hospital/small-animal/ermedicine Cookie and Keller brought Nick and Nora to dog-friendly Bohemian Bus Beautiful recently in Mendocino County. UP NEXT:     It's a bus like no other you've seen, a lodging unlike any you've enjoyed. Bohemian Bus Beautiful in the lovely coastal woods of northern California is a dog-friendly get-away where artist and writer Blake More runs an inspired air bnb. Her fanciful artwork includes collage, sculpture, painting, mosaic, fiber work, a garden with lights and many magical touches. Even the bathroom and outdoor shower are treasure troves of unique artwork accented by nature. Each space has something to admire, ponder and appreciate. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

Keller prepares to take the wheel of a rental car  on an autumn trip to Olbia, Sardinia. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Roundabouts are the norm in much of Europe and the United  Kingdom.   Here, a Dali sculpture in Figueres, eastern Spain, decorates the curve. DRIVING WHILE  abroad can be a delightful way to discover new terrain at your own pace. We've made friends in rental cars, gleaned information and tips, discovered off-the-beaten path treasures. But renting a car successfully, getting the best deal and returning the auto safely take courage and know-how. Wednesday, we laid the groundwork for getting your rental agreement before you leave the U.S.  We also talked about ways to prevent extra charges -- from dents that you didn't cause to gas that you didn't use. Here are more tips to help you renting abroad:  Go small:  Tight, narrow streets laid out for horse and carriage, centuries before cars, are common in many European, South American, Middle-Eastern and Asian cities.  Parking areas are small or non-existent so think small, to allow you to maneuver better. In a traffic jam, you can sometimes back or turn your way out in a small car.  Not so with a large car which will also be much more expensive. Driving a rental car in the Middle East may yield more than cars!   WHEN MAKING reservations for your car pickup -- particularly at an airport -- remember that the company's fleets are often stocked with larger cars, for use by business travelers on expense accounts.  You might receive a free upgrade for a subcompact booking and could still end up with a car size to maneuver easily.  European cars are smaller than their American counterparts.  If you're only a couple or threesome, no problem. Small may not suit large or tall Americans, or those carrying lots of luggage, or traveling with a group or big family. Consider all that. Safely delivered to her Costa Brava hotel, Cookie prepares to celebrate! Parking in large cities calls for ingenuity as these Roman cars attest.  In many countries, manual transmissions are the norm. So we pay a higher price for an automatic. If you are comfortable with a stick shift, you will save money. Remember, though, that driving overseas is much more taxing than driving at home. FIRST, YOU  probably have no idea where you're going, roads are often narrow, winding or  poorly paved, or precariously constructed on mountainsides or ocean cliffs. Road signs and street markings are different. A recent drive from Barcelona to Spain's rugged Costa Brava was spectacular but yielded some frightening moments. Another drive from Florence south to Sienna was breathtaking but terrifying. Many Italian drivers have lead feet and we were passed and honked at by many aspiring Mario Andrettis!  Neither of us likes to drive with a stick shift. So if not all  drivers in your group are comfy with a manual transmission, get an automatic and suck up the higher price. Remember, too, if you're in England, Australia or other "left side of the road" countries, driving has additional challenges. Navigating those roundabouts calls for clear thinking and determination. Be sure everyone's comfortable with driving on the left side of the road -- it can be challenging. Navigating a busy Rome street calls for clear thinking, then action.       BE AWARE : many countries have a minimum and maximum age for renters. Drivers under 25 or over 70 may face surcharges or not be permitted to rent at all.   International driving permits:   If you're traveling in an English-speaking country, you can get by with an American driver's license. Check with the consulate or embassy of the country you're visiting to find out policies on international drivers.  Many countries will ask that you also obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP). This is basically a paper that translates your into into 10 languages. It is recognized by over 150 countries. If you are renting a car abroad, you may be asked to present one along with your regular state license. You must be at least 18 years old to get an IDP. The car rental agencies can give you information country by country. TWO AGENCIES i n the U.S.   are authorized to issue IDP's: the American Automobile Association (AAA) and the National Automobile Club. Fakes are also available on the web so beware! Get your IDP before leaving home: it must be issued in your home country. An IDP is not a license; it's merely confirms and translates the license issued in your native country. If you are stopped by officials abroad, you must present your home country's license and IDP where needed. Be careful to obey local tolls, rules and lights. Any citation issued abroad will find its way for payment through your rental car company. Finally, check with your auto insurance before you go to determine if you are covered while driving abroad.  If not, we recommend purchasing minimum insurance.  You might be the world's best driver, but if someone smashes into you in transit, or in a hotel or restaurant lot, you'll be covered. It's worth a few extra Euros for the peace of mind.  To GPS or not?  We'll answer that in the next post. Keller is ready for his close-up on overseas technology. COMING UP:  You're rented your car and are off to foreign places and discoveries.  Now, how to get technology to co-operate with you overseas. You may have to file a plug to fit into an outlet -- but we can help you avoid checking with an engineer! More on technology wherever you're going.  Travel in Europe with technology, but don't necessarily plan on phoning home.  Remember to explore, learn and live. Tell your friends and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

A Pacific bound container ship goes south through the Panama Canal, photographed from the balcony of our northbound ship. Pacific-Atlantic bound ships pass traffic going the opposite direction in wider parts of the river and Gatun Lake. Passage fees must be paid in advance and are thousands of dollars. TECHNOLOGY, WORLD COMMERCE CONVERGE IN A FASCINATING DAY AT SEA passing through the Panama Canal Lock doors open while our ship prepares to enter, towed in by  diesel powered "mules." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HOW MANY countries does it take to complete a $5.3 billion expansion of the wondrous Panama Canal? The answer might be, "more than four," because Spain, Italy, Belgium and Panama have not delivered so far. The expansion contract was lost to the U.S., whose bid was too high.  But the countries sharing the various sub-contracts have found their endeavors beset with problems.   A YEAR AGO , the project was shut down for a time when it ran out of money and floods further crippled the effort. It's back on track, with a revised budget of $7 million.  Korea is now involved, too. Our recent visit found the world's largest earth movers noisily back on the project, and estimates are that it will be done by December of 2015 or early 2016 at the latest. I wouldn't hold my breath. Because of the shape of the land, the canal runs north-south, not east-west. The intricate, massive addition will accommodate three times larger vessels and increase the daily numbers of ships and freighters in transit. Mira Flores Lock was completed in 1906. IN VISITING  with experts, we learned that continuous dredging is part of the scenario, because of water movement, rains and erosion. After transiting the locks aboard the Legend of the Seas, we wanted a look from land.  A close-up tour, arranged on board through Royal Caribbean International, picked us up at the docks near Colon and took us to a viewing tower three stories up. WE WATCHED , fascinated, as the lock system worked -- thanks to 50 million gallons of water a day running out of the mountains. F our new locks, made in France, await installation in the new canal. A reader of Saturday's part-one piece asked, "Do they alternate days of traffic going east and west?" First, the direction is north and south, even though it would seem that the oceans are on the east and west of the land bridge. And there are locks for two-way traffic.  In man-made Gatun Lake, we Atlantic-bound passengers saw ships coming towards us, going towards the Pacific we'd left earlier in the day. LARGE SHIPS use the canal during the day, entering in the morning and exiting toward evening. Ships going Pacific-Atlantic go north; those traveling from the Atlantic to the Pacific go south.  Small vessels cluster and wait night when enough traffic accumulates to make passage..... you don't get space in line until you pay. Our Royal Caribbean Legend of the Seas paid nearly $400,000. Years ago, aboard the venerable Queen Elizabeth II, we made international news as the largest ship at the time to transit the canal, with only inches to spare. WITH THE  new addition, ships three times larger will be able to transit.  Many of the new larger mega-ships are too large for the present locks. CASH ONLY  is paid to Panama for passage and our vessel's tab was $400k! (That's why this cruise is so expensive.) The canal and locks are 48 miles long and parts are replaced as needed without stopping traffic, a remarkable feat in this 100-year old undertaking. Canal traffic has only been stopped once, when drought in 2010 failed to supply adequate rain water.  Now, Gatun Lake's level is being raised one foot to store more water. Water pours into the lock as a "mule" reaches the top, helping the ship. "MULES" HELP  the ships through.  They still call the cars "mules" but nowadays they are diesel powered and hooked to the ship with cables. The creation of the Panama Canal took 27,000 lives -- mostly from malaria, with some casualties from explosions. The canal saves 8,000 miles and 71 days of sailing.  Last year nearly 15,000 ships, pleasure crafts and freighters made the remarkable journey.    A Guatemalan woman sells handmade shawls and scarves. COMING SOON : Continuing our wanderings of the coast of the Americas, our adventures take us to Guatemala, which means "land of trees."  We sample barbecue and purchase gorgeous hand-woven shawls, made by descendants of the Mayan people.  We say “gracias, no” to the man with the drug coat, a dealer’s version of the New York watch seller’s. Our mountain trek takes us through miles of coffee and rubber trees before we embark upon an hour-long boat ride on Lake Atitlan, created from a volcanic crater, to the village of Panajachel, one of 23 ancient villages attracting Guatemalan yuppies and adventuresome Europeans. Remember to explore, learn, live, and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at: www.whereiscookie.com

Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, the bullring in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, was built in 1909 but soon closed after prohibition of bull fighting in 1912. After a century of abandonment, it was restored in 2021, transformed into a cultural center. COLONIA: STORMY PAST OF CONTESTED CITY NOW TRANQUIL TOURIST VILLAGE QUAINT TOURIST TOWN ATTRACTS VISITORS FROM ARGENTINA, URUGUAY,AND BEYOND  Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento is one of the graceful reminders of the long and colorful history of Colonia.   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' NOW A QUAINT little tourist town in southwestern Uruguay, Colonia del Sacramento has a rich and stormy history. Like many contemporary cities, one wouldn't envision war and conflict from its peaceful present facade. Located on the vast expanses of  Rio de la Plata, Colonia faces Buenos Aires, Argentina, and is one of Uruguay's most visited and oldest towns. It's also a popular weekend getaway for wealthy and middle-class Argentines, known as "porteños   " or people of the port because so many arrived by boat. The streets of Colonia recall an earlier time. Little shops, eateries and old stone buildings remind of long ago. WE FOUND two convenient ways to reach Colonia: by bus from Montevideo or by boat from Buenos Aires. Through the centuries, legions of settlers and explorers have arrived by the murky brown waters of the huge river. The quickest and easiest way is still by water, with two ferry companies operating from Buenos Aires, a pleasant 75 minute ride in one of the comfortable, frequent ships.  The bus trip from Montevideo is longer -- about two hours -- with mostly farmland and prairie out the window and not as comfortable as the ferry. These ferries are unlike others we've used in Europe or Asia. They're huge little cities, with several classes of seats (we chose the Buquebus mid-priced option.) The comfy seats recline, there's an enormous duty free shop on board and a variety of snack and beverage options. Colonia's well preserved lighthouse dates to 1850.   Arriving in the town, population 27,000, is a relaxing change from busy Buenos Aires. Its historic quarter is a Unesco World Heritage Site. But besides historic buildings attracting tourism, today's  Colonia produces textiles. It also boasts a free trade zone, a busy polytechnic center and government buildings. WHILE THE  Portuguese established Colonia in 1680, it has been heavily disputed and many times brought under siege as Spain desired it, too.  Spain took the city twice -- in 1681 and 1705, claiming the area based on the Treaty of Tordesillas. But the Spanish returned it to the Portuguese by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. The Spanish-Portuguese war lasted two brutal years from 1735-37, but failed. The dispute's long history stems from Colonia's river location which is still attracting explorers and investors. Uruguay has launched plans to create its version of Silicon Valley in Colonia. ''Colonia Ala Este'' is designed by U.S. investors to attract Argentine immigrants who wish to escape the challenging economy in their country. The goal is to double the population -- to 60,000 people. With an initial investment of more than US$100 million, plans are to build a sustainable city open to the community to generate a hub for the knowledge- economy industry.  The designated 500-hectare site  includes forests and seven kilometers of coastline with lovely beaches including Calabrés and Fernando. Colonia's pastels, stone and stucco make it an attractive stop for tourists, who can easily spend a day or two. ANOTHER SIGN of growth is the impressive Plaza de Toros Real de San Carlos, a former bullring now reinvented. Built in 1909, the ring was shortly closed after prohibition of bull fighting in 1912. In 2021, after a century of abandonment, it was beautifully restored and transformed into a cultural center for musical and sports. Colonia is a pleasant place for a stroll, with its cobblestone, attractive architecture and great bridge.  Colonia is truly Uruguay's shining star, a pretty little "cash cow" without being corny. It's welcoming and safe, with history at every turn, beautiful little shops and terrific dining at half the price of Buenos Aires, which we also love. We found it a pleasant complement to the bustle of the city. We dined on tasty fish, chicken and salad with a river view in one an appealing Colonia eatery. Colonia is popular with tourists from South America and beyond, but particularly Buenos Aires and the U.S. Colonia is a popular getaway for both Argentines and international travelers  enjoyed a day in the picturesque town where we strolled around well preserved houses and quiet squares, developed centuries ago. TO BOOK A FERRY: directferries.com coloniaexpress.com Tango relies on quick movement, sexy poses and agile dancers, always backed by expert musicians. UP NEXT: Tango, that seductive, sexy, passionate dance of Argentina and Uruguay, originated in the bordello.  It was once a dance practiced only by prostitutes, pimps and those considered "low life" by the aristocracy.  Now it is a major tourist attraction and respected artform. It is also expensive, if you frequent the clubs. But there are ways to see tango without paying through the nose.  Buskers often tango for tips, and if you're on a cruise in that part of the world, you'll have tango as part of the cruise fare. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch  us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, travel, nature, family and more. Please share the link:  www.whereiscookie.com

Onboard Royal Caribbean Brilliance of the Seas, you can explore magnificent ancient Greek culture with Doric temples, markets, an amphitheater, intricate houses, mosaics, and the renowned Terrace of the Lions. Delos, the mythological birthplace of Apollo, has splendid ruins of temples, markets, a theater and famed Terrace of Lions. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Carpe Kiem Kids Rising from the shimmering blue waters of the Aegean Sea, Delos feels less like a destination and more like stepping into a living myth. Revered in ancient times as the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, this small, uninhabited island just off Mykonos is now one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. Delos Greece UNESCO World Heritage Island Site, offers a rare chance to wander through remarkably preserved ruins—grand marketplaces, intricate mosaics, and sacred temples—while imagining the vibrant civilization that once made this island the spiritual and commercial heart of the ancient Greek world. APPROACHING DELOS , one marvels at the sophisticated people who thrived here two thousand years ago. What happened to these wealthy merchants and scholars, no one knows. They simply disappeared,  -- but here on the lovely Delos was declared a free port in 167 BC, it became a main trading centers on the Eastern Mediterranean. A thriving town developed. Aegean Sea, early in winter, the light seems -- dare we say --Apollonion. An animated, accomplished Greek guide brings Delos history to life.   No wonder, for it was here in the center of a magical archipelago where Apollo was born. The god of music, truth and prophecy, healing, sun, light, poetry is a spiritual presence as we stroll through   ruins    dating  to 600 B.C.  The superb location of Delos -- right in the middle of the Aegean  made it an ideal meeting place and trade center centuries ago OUR BRILLIANT  guide brings the culture back to life, describing a busy port, important religious center and home to wealthy and sophisticated merchants and scholars.  Their highly evolved hygiene, culture and architecture made the prosperous village a huge internationally touted "find" when it was discovered by the French centuries later in 1873. Cookie about to board a ferry after a wonderful day in Delos. As we studied glorious ruins, the morning sun reflected off the marble and stone as if to say: search always for harmony, ask questions, seek reason and balance -- all trademarks of Greek philosophy. WHY THE  ancient Greeks left their island home is unknown -- perhaps disease or crop failure, a sudden shift in tides or weather.  But we know that long abandoned Delos was once sacred throughout Greece, as the centerpiece of an artfully arranged archipelago . Mykonos was the port for a day in Delos on Brilliance of the Seas. We joined a group of students and tourists on Delos, to study a culture dating to the early Bronze Age. Important mythological, historical and archeological discoveries make it one of the world's most famous excavations. RCCL organizes great tours.  We boarded a ferry in nearby Mykonos, setting off for a half-hour sail on the peaceful Aegean Sea. It was Day 8 of our Mediterranean odyssey aboard Royal Caribbean's Brilliance of the Seas. Our destination was Delos Greece UNESCO World Heritage island, this famous mythological birthplace of Apollo, whose mother, Leto, gave birth to him and his twin, Artemis here. The French began extensive excavations of Delos in 1873. Work continues today, with many questions unanswered. EXCAVATIONS on Delos started in 1873 by the French School of Archaeology at Athens and by 1914 the most significant sections of the ancient site had been uncovered. Work is ongoing, and recently more ruins were discovered underwater nearby: kilns, pottery and    remnants of a major religious center and port during the 1st millennium B.C. We admired ruins of Doric temples, markets, an amphitheater, houses with mosaics and the iconic Terrace of the Lions statues. We wished for more time in the excellent Archaeological Museum on site which displays statues excavated from the site. It was our third visit to Delos, and not long enough. UP NEXT: Thumbs up for San Francisco Fire Engine Tours, a unique way to see the city.  Whether you're a native to the City by the Bay (as is our great-nephew James Ganner) or a tourist on a first-time or 20th visit, the delightful 90-minute tour will introduce you to new sights and little known streets, as well as familiar and iconic sights, buildings and parks. Young James Brian Ganner gives thumbs up to his ride aboard a Mack fire truck. More on this fun family tour soon. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel approach to travel, the arts, nature and family.

This group of students came to our aid when they saw us looking at our city map. This friendliness is typical of Uruguayan people, we found in our 10 days there. Montevideo is often overlooked in favor of larger, more visited South American cities. It has much to offer, though, including  stately architecture .  Streets are clean and balconies show flowers and plants in pretty Montevideo. CAPITAL CITY CHARMS WITH POLITE PEOPLE, HISTORY, WIDE STREETS, AND RELAXED  QUALITY PARTLY DUE TO A POPULAR TEA DRINK CALLED MATE Top photo: Above, tasty chicken salad with garnish of apples, walnuts and sesame seeds. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' THE MOST appealing aspect of Montevideo is the friendly, welcoming feeling one gets while strolling its streets, visiting a museum or enjoying a beverage. Perhaps it's the yerba mate, an herbal tea that nearly every Uruguayan drinks. Our splendid tour guide Pablo enjoys his mate during a break on a day trip. It's their equivalent of coffee, and imbibers believe it is both calming and "calmly energizing," as our guide Pablo told us. Mate contains adaptogens that help keep cortisol levels from rising too high. Its millions of consumers also believe it provides a gradual, smooth energy boost along with vitamins, minerals, and superfoods to encourage relaxation and immunity . Mate thermoses and cups adorn many shop windows.  The national drink is much enjoyed.   SO ON our Montevideo itinerary, we settled into the calming vibe in this lovely city, settled in  1724 by a Spanish soldier. As the capital of this small South American country, most Americans pass it by, in favor of the larger and glitzier Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro. Happily, we spent eight pleasant days in Montevideo, with side trips to nearby villages, and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Montevideo's laid-back atmosphere includes a lively café culture, and well-preserved old town in the Ciudad Vieja. We enjoyed strolling this area, which is receiving a wave of immigration primarily from its neighbors—Argentina and Brazil—but also from Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Venezuela. Our guide, in fact, was born in Cuba and came here with his Cuban wife and his mother-in-law.  All are assimilated in Montevideo and love it. Montevideo's streets are neat and welcoming, with pretty shops, art displays and usually few crowds.  Carrasco International Airport is a pleasant contrast with other more hectic South American ones. Its family-friendly nature is typical of Uruguay. Free strollers were available for use within the airport. Family bathrooms and baby rooms for feeding and changing are plentiful and easy to access. Most everyone speaks English and young people are polite and friendly. We encountered a group of students who recommended a tango show and fun inexpensive restaurant. Museums and cultural centers/events offer free admission for kids under 12 and reasonable student rates.  Montevideo's imposing equine statue features the national hero of Uruguay, José Gervasio Artigas.He lived from 1764 to 1850 and who led the fight for independence against Brazil and Portugal.   Life in Montevideo revolves around cafes, many spread out around the Plaza de la Independencia, once home to a Spanish citadel. This plaza leads to Ciudad Vieja with beautiful art deco buildings, colonial homes and landmarks including the towering Palacio Salvo and neoclassical performance hall Solís Theatre. Mercado del Puerto has trendy steakhouses, in a gentrified area of the old port market which celebrates its history. Shady, welcoming cafes, clean streets and attractive architecture mark Montevideo, with its many free activities, museums and other offerings.  Montevideo and its rich cultural life offer the pleasures of a vibrant city such as Miami or Malaga. Both south Florida and the Costa del Sol came to mind during our time in Montevideo, which shares the same rich cultural and ethnic background as Miami in the U.S. and Malaga in Spain. More info: Dream Tour Uruguay and guide Pablo are highly recommended. Tours of Montevideo, Punta del Este and Colonia are all offered this top rated tur agency in Uruguay: www.dreamtour.com.uy Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day in Colonia, with historic architecture, charming shops. UP NEXT: While we're in Uruguay, we visit two very different cities: Punta del Este, with its lively beach culture, and the historic town of Colonia. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 on the Río de la Plata, and the city quickly came to be of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. We found Uruguay welcoming and clean, friendly and reasonably priced.  Its stable economy and kind and gracious people are appealing reasons to plan a trip.  It's also very family friendly. Children are welcome, and often invited free to museums and other venues. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, food, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

"Montana has the kind of mountains I'd create if mountains were put on my agenda."  -- John Steinbeck in "My Travels with Charley" Our little corner of the world, with clouds, trees, mountains, a magical sight each visit. The approach to the place we cherish, tucked away in the Beartooth Mountains.    The writer and photographer treasure their hideaway in the Beartooth Mountains. BASKING IN BEAUTY OF Montana's BIG SKY COUNTRY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' NO MATTER HOW  far we wander -- to the fjords of Norway or the deserts Down Under -- we are no more excited than when we answer the call of the Big Sky sirens and return to Montana. I'm a fourth generation native of the Treasure State and I love traveling the world. But Montana's Big Sky Country makes my heart soar and my breathing quicken. When I glimpse the meandering Yellowstone River from the airplane window and see the Rimrocks framing the town of Billings, I'm always a bit verklempt. Home. And it's no more beautiful  than this time of year, when the lilacs are still pretty in the high country and the lupine and mountain phlox are about to bloom. Yes, it's a real cowboy -- not a rhinestone one.  Working ranches mean working cowboys to tend to the cattle. OUR LITTLE corner of the Beartooths is dear to my heart.  As a kid growing up in the 1950s, I traveled with my parents on regular trips "up country" to visit cousins in Roscoe and friends in Red Lodge.  My grandparents played bridge with chums at a cabin on the West Fork of the Stillwater River near where 30 years later I'd buy property. I rode my first horse on the Beartooth Ranch between Columbus and Absarokee, which my grandfather Gus owned a few proprietors back. (He called it "Sunnyside Ranch" and I have photos of me on the ancient horse, Peanuts, riding down the same road we see from Highway 78.) Red Lodge boasts many restored Victorian homes, a treasure. For those of us grounded in the natural world, there's nothing more pleasing than spring after a brutal winter.  While I can't claim to have suffered through the snow and chill, I've kept up on the miseries, stress and hard work of our rancher neighbors, and I feel grateful for their endurance and spirit. Nothing makes me happier than to have to stop the car while a cowboy moves cattle to summer pasture. "These are my people;  this is my country." Corny, but true. Sometimes I even belt out the state song: "Montana, Montana, glory of the west.......        M-O-N-T-A-N-A, Montana I love you." YES, OF ALL  the states from coast to coast, it's easily the best. I love my part-time California life, world travels and regular visits to Seattle, San Francisco, New York, Atlanta, Miami and Boston. But there's no place like home. The aging Yorkies love Montana, too. Nick and Nora romp and hike and get in shape, just as we do. Home on the range will always be dear to our hearts. Cookie and Keller, Nick and Nora hike the East Rosebud. We love our Montana based road trips to Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks, forays to Red Lodge, Livingston, Bozeman, Butte, Glacier Park is part of our summer itinerary, with an annual road trip. Missoula, Harlowton, to visit friends and catch up on theater and dining. I spent the first years of my life in Bozeman where my parents were university students, and it's been fun to watch the Gallatin Valley grow and change, still feeling like part of the real West. The little western towns in between are fun, too. Big Timber, Roundup, White Sulphur Springs, Harlowton, Lewistown, Cody, Wyo. ONE OF OUR  recent thrills is the opening of an internationally known art and music center just a few miles away.  Tippet Rise, built by the heirs to the Grey Goose vodka fortune, is a masterful creation presenting concerts by world-renowned classical musicians. The patron Halsteads commissioned stunning contemporary outdoor sculptures by famous artists to enhance the connection between land and art. More on Tippet Rise We've written about this grand accomplishment for national venues and are fortunate to score a few cherished tickets each season. Places to stay if you come visit? Mark di Suvero's "Beethoven's Quartet" is inspired by the string quartets of  the great composer. The fascinating piece is one of several world class sculptures at Tippet Rise Art Center.  Yes! Many gorgeous digs await visitors. Blue Ribbon Run Fishery, for instance, offers a tranquil, handsomely appointed vista on the Stillwater, fine fishing, abundant birds and wildlife (check it out at  airbnb.com ). Montana is a place where people still greet one another on the streets.  When we mow the front lawn, neighbors wave and honk. Our love of nature bonds us to Montana where we have cherished family and friends. "Summer people" arrive and that's fun, too -- from Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Washington, Florida, New York. And we catch up with the "locals," those tough people who stick out the winter there. DO I MISS  city life?  The ocean, plays, nightlife, tango shows, watching Gustavo Dudamel conduct the Los Angeles Philharmonic, Greek food, sushi on demand, ocean hikes, Macy's and Nordstrom's within walking distance.  Yes, I suffer temporary withdrawal. But we have Shakespeare in the Parks, Tippet Rise Art Center, my pianos, guitars, saxophones and talented voices to sing show tunes.  Peace and joy, happiness in the mountains, reunions, contentment in the serenity,, plus the bonus of reading and reflection. Lucky are we. Swimming with the sting rays made for a memorable afternoon recently. UP NEXT:   Manta rays! Come with us to swim with the rays in Sting Ray City, Antigua. We booked a day with these fascinating and beautiful creatures, escorted by trained nature guides. What evolved was an exciting  encounter with some of the ocean's most graceful inhabitants. The carefully choreographed aquatic adventure made one of our most memorable days, happily spent with southern stingrays, as we snorkeled and even fed them. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday.