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The new Tower represents endurance and recovery, while honoring lives lost. Its mission is "to preserve freedom and inspire an end to hatred, ignorance and intolerance." NEW YORKERS, GLOBAL VISITORS PAY HOMAGE TO THE FALLEN AT NEW, ELEGANT TRADE CENTER MEMORIAL AND MUSEUM Names of victims are placed near names of people with whom they worked. The names are inscribed in bronze around waterfalls and two beautiful pools. This family visited the memorial after a subway ride with us. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' WE ALL  remember that dreadful day: the haunting images of the Twin Towers collapsing, families searching frantically for lost loved ones. Smoke, tears and sorrow. So 14 years after the infamous deeds of September 11, 2011, we spent a day at the scene of the carnage. This young visitor took a selfie near the pools and bronzes honoring the victims. The dramatic 9/11 Memorial was designed by architect Michael Arad and landscaper Peter Walker. It includes two pools set in the footprints of the original Twin Towers. Thirty-foot water- falls cascade into the pools and descend into a center void. Names of the nearly 3,000 victims are inscribed in bronze around the perimeters of the pools. WE JOINED families from around the globe and other New York neighborhoods to pay our respects.  We were among thousands of all faiths, age and dress as we emerged from the subway from Midtown Manhattan.  We were warmed by the sun, shining as it had on the day of the disaster.  We were grateful for the weather as we walked through Lower Manhattan to the memorial. Windows on the World was a favorite haunt of many. The looks on peoples' faces were somber and reverent as they studied the names around the pools. The original Twin Towers stood proudly. Some left flowers or made rubbings of loved ones' names. Others took selfies or group photos. Many seemed lost in reverie and memory.  I had spent many happy times in the original Twin Towers, often at the famous top-floor restaurant, Windows on the World. There I interviewed celebrities and dined with friends in the movie and theater business.  Windows was a favorite hang out of travelers, writers, stars and politicians. Everyone loved its splendid views. Tourists from around the globe, and many New Yorkers, await tour tickets.  WE SPENT  time studying the 9/11 Memorial Museum, but agreed it was a brutal few hours -- with its first-person accounts of the day, personal artifacts, structural remnants and multimedia displays.  The WTC complex with a master plan by Daniel Libeskind calls for a spiral of new towers around the eight-acre Memorial. ONE OF the most touching elements were hundreds of swamp white   oaks around the memorial. A single, beautiful pear tree -- known as "Survivor Tree" -- stands as proud testimony to survival. Workers found the damaged tree reduced to a stump in the Ground Zero wreckage. Nursed back to health, it grew to 30 feet and flowers each spring. ONE MAY  download the 9/11 Memorial Guide on a smartphone or visit names.911memorial.org . Juhu Beach Club -- visited by whereiscookie in April, and recently, by CNN's traveling gourmet, Anthony Bourdain. NEXT UP and BY THE WAY:  A Montana museum once the home of the philanthropic, pioneering Bair family, opens its doors for an "Upstairs, Downstairs" tour next week.  And last spring we discovered a wonderful Indian restaurant, Juhu  Beach Club in Oakland, Calif. It has quickly become a favorite of Bay Area diners, and visitors looking for tasty Indian fare cooked by someone who knows her way around curry and chutney. We raved about the fairly new eatery months ago! Recently, world renowned chef Anthony Bourdain, of the popular CNN show, "Parts Unknown," gave Juhu thumbs up. High praise from a guy who loves San Francisco and writes about its older, venerable eateries such as Sinbad's, House of Prime Rib, Tosca, Trader Vic's and Swan Oyster Depot. Check out our piece and tune in to Bourdain Sunday nights on CNN.  Anthony Bourdain, whereiscookie visit Juhu Beach Club

Grand Teton National Park, above, is in glorious color as the Memorial Day weekend arrives, noting the unofficial beginning of summer in the country's national parks. IN OUR BACK YARD, GRAND TETON AND YELLOWSTONE PREPARE FOR SUMMER VISITORS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" There are places that feel larger than life and then there’s Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Set against the sweeping landscapes of Wyoming, these two natural wonders offer a rare combination of geothermal magic and alpine serenity. In Yellowstone, the earth breathes through bubbling hot springs and erupts skyward at legendary geysers, while just to the south, Grand Teton stuns with its dramatic peaks reflected in crystal-clear lakes. Together, they form a road trip unlike any other. Every turn reveals wildlife, wilderness, and beauty that makes you stop, stare, and stay a bit longer. Above right, Bison sightings are a common occurrence in Yellowstone. It's best to drive slowly and not stop. Traffic jams are part of the park experience. Above, well marked rest areas and viewing areas are part of the learning at our national parks, with plenty of information to be gleaned by stopping. THE SMELL of sulfur and wisps of steam signal that hot pots and geysers are near. The odor assails the nostrils, all part of the Yellowstone experience. You'll encounter this "boiled egg" scent without leaving your car. Some find it obnoxious. I find it comforting. It's part of my childhood. And after all, Yellowstone's geysers formed after the last glaciers scoured the land surface at least 15,000 years ago. So we show proper respect! We love our national parks and are fortunate to have two within a day's drive -- Yellowstone and Grand Teton. It takes us a bit longer to reach Glacier National Park, from our base in south-central Montana. But the drive north is also a delightful pilgrimage and we make as often as possible. (We cover our parks extensively, so Google Glacier for more on that park.) Informative billboards and posters guide the eye in Yellowstone, where beauty awaits at every turn. IN YELLOWSTONE, we always hike to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, as viewed from the Lower Falls. The craggy canyons, gushing waterfalls and towering mountains are a spectacle that never ceases to amaze. Each visit brings something new to discover. The 3,500 square-mile wonder is mostly in Wyoming, but we Montanans claim Yellowstone, too, since three of the five entrances are in our state. Bison and steaming geysers catch the eye in Yellowstone, where beauty awaits at every turn. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy an early spring hike in the Tetons. The park also spreads into Idaho, near West Yellowstone. "Our park" features dramatic canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers, including the famous, Old Faithful. It's also home to hundreds of animal species, including many we just spotted. We've found through the years that our spring and autumn treks are perfectly timed. Spring brings new life and with thinning crowds and colorful foliage, fall is spectacular. Many of the park’s iconic animals are more visible in spring and fall, when cooler, changing temperatures prompt them to move about more. Summer's heat encourages staying put. DAWN AND DUSK are the best times for spotting wildlife, and with spring days growing longer one can get up as early and stay out late to take advantage of prime viewing times. We witnessed several careless activities with wildlife: one family attempting to photograph a child in the same frame as a bison. Bad idea. Bears are more elusive, but can be seen. This grizzly bear was not far from the East Entrance. Rangers advise maintaining a distance of at least 100 yards from bears and wolves and at least 25 yards from all other wildlife. Remember, too, that they are on the move to lower elevations as winter draws nearer. Spring finds them active, too, but seeing higher ground. Fir trees and flowers welcome spring as runoff from winter snow fills lakes and rivers. Fall brings changing colors. IF YOU'RE looking for lodging, know that guest facilities and services gradually book months in advance and begin to close in the fall. Prices also drop a bit in autumn, and there are appealing fall lodging packages. Check the park’s website for the availability. Check weather and road updates when you're in the park. Some services and activities in the parks require reservations. Do some homework to save time and frustration while there. MORE INFORMATION on Yellowstone and Grand Teton Parks: www.nps.gov nationalparkreservations.com yellowstonenationalparklodges.com glaciernationalparklodges.com recreation.gov (for camping, vehicle permits, cabins, rvs, passes and more specifics.) Here, Ryan and Callie Regan of Chicago give Remly a cuddle as they spend time with him on a recent crossing aboard Queen Mary 2. The Cunard ship is the only major ocean liner to accommodate more than service dogs. UP NEXT: Everyone knows the appeal cruising has to millions of people. But did you know that dogs and cats can cross the ocean in style on the world's most famous ocean liner, Queen Mary 2? Pampered pooches and cats, too, travel regularly between New York and Southampton, England, lovingly cared for by a devoted kennel master. More on how to book passage for your pup or cat, and what to expect to pay for the mobile pampering. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are all smiles at the iconic Roosevelt Arch in Yellowstone. NATION'S OLDEST PARK GREETS INTERNATIONAL CROWDS Tips on Yellowstone Trek and reserving a room to enjoy the park in a busy season Bison graze peacefully in the park, awaiting thousands of views. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" As the world's first national park, Yellowstone is a must-visit, unparalleled "natural wonderland". It features iconic geothermal wonders like Old Faithful and the Grand Prismatic Spring , the largest concentration of geysers on Earth. Visitors can explore the breathtaking Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone , witness free-roaming bison herds , and experience a unique, steaming winter landscape A Yellowstone trek, through this first of America's national parks, yields pleasures and surprises with each visit. Wintertime is a wondrous time in the park, although only two of the hotels are open then. Still, worth considering here at Grand Prismatic The Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest hot spring in the United States and the third largest in the world . Located in Yellowstone National Park's Midway Geyser Basin , it is famous for its massive size—stretching roughly 370 feet in diameter—and its vibrant, rainbow-like rings. In my decades on the planet, I've never missed an annual gambol through this eye-popping treasure, established in by President Theodore Roosevelt. Yellowstone was christened 151 years ago by the ardent conservationist, who is honored in a famous arch near Mammoth. THE WONDERS OF  "our Yellowstone Trek" unfold in glorious hues summer or winter and despite the crowds, it's a trip we never tire of taking. Yellowstone is enormous -- 3,472 square miles. At first, it seems a daunting undertaking to try to see it all. There are dozens of "main attractions" and hundreds of lesser known treasures. There is much to see and do, depending on your energy and interest. The majesty of Grand Teton National Park is displayed in its dramatic jagged peaks. Yellowstone turned 150 last year It's best to plan at least four days in Yellowstone. If you have less time, you can see highlights in two or three days. If you travel the park top to bottom, you'll be in three states. While the park is mostly in Wyoming, it spreads into Montana and Idaho. You'll be keeping company with tourists from all over the world, and hundreds of animal species, including the famous bison and bears. Wolves in the northern Lamar Valley are making a comeback and elk and antelope roam, too, along with thousands of birds. You'll traverse lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers, including the famous Old Faithful, the park's most crowded spot. It's possible to see wildlife from the road, here bison grazing near the river. Figure a full week if you want to include Grand Teton National Park to the south. Well worth a visit if you've time for two stunning parks. Their wonders are different in many ways. YELLOWSTONE HAS  nine lodges with more than 2,000 rooms. Bookings are made early and many people reserve rooms a year ahead. That's possible because on the fifth of each month, rooms go on sale for that same month in the following year, making it possible to book ahead nearly 13 months. The park's lodges are open from late spring through fall, but only two are open in the winter. A cow elk meanders close to the Roosevelt Arch. Yellowstone's wildflowers abound after heavy rains this year. STAYING INSIDE Yellowstone is   more convenient for sightseeing, but hotel rooms are more expensive and often unavailable.  We have stayed outside the park the last few visits -- it means a bit more driving, but lodging is cheaper outside the park and nearby towns have better restaurant selections and other attractions. A few ideas to try are West Yellowstone, right at the west entrance; Cody, Wyo., a pleasant drive to the east entrance; Gardiner, at the north entrance; Big Sky,  a beautiful 50-mile drive to West Yellowstone,  along the west fork of the Gallatin River; and several places in Idaho, including a lodge we discovered last year, Sawtelle Mountain Resort.  It's a family friendly place, considerably cheaper than the closer motels and rentals, and a beautiful drive into West Yellowstone.   More information to help you plan a park visit, even on short notice: nps.gov yellowstonenationalparklodges.com vrbo.com bigskyresort.com expedia.com   sawtellemountainresort.com   A packed house in Fishtail enjoys "The Three Musketeers," a lively touring production by Montana Shakespeare in the Parks. The troupe tours the Rockies with two full, free shows from June into mid-September. UP NEXT:  Montana Shakespeare in the Parks is underway this summer. Check for your local schedule. This ambitious endeavor has been entertaining audiences in the Rocky Mountains for 51 years. This season's tour transits all of Montana and hits parts of Idaho, Wyoming and Washington states. On tap are two productions, "The Three Musketeers," adapted from the Dumas novel, and William Shakespeare's "Measure for Measure." The popular annual tradition is funded by grants and donations and is always met with a lively and grateful response. For the schedule, go to: ShakespeareInTheParks.org

This scenic turn-out in Glacier National Park made an ideal picnic spot when we visited, just before colors began to change. Autumn is an uncrowded, beautiful and comfortable time to visit a national park NOW'S THE PERFECT TIME AS AUTUMN APPROACHES TO ENJOY YOUR NATIONAL PARKS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Why visit Glacier National Park? Why see Yellowstone National Park or head north to Banff? If you’re looking for a reason to book your late-summer mountain getaway, parks are it. Glacier National Park The "Crown of the Continent" a million-acre mosaic of turquoise lakes, jagged peaks, and wildflower-filled meadows, truly comes alive in the late summer and early fall months. Whether you’re a hardcore hiker or a scenic-drive enthusiast, here is why Glacier belongs on your "summer swansong" bucket list: OUR SUMMER always winds down with visits to Yellowstone National Park, which we are lucky enough to have within easy driving distance. Glacier and Teton parks are a bit further from home, but we try to visit them both at least once a year. But the fall Yellowstone trek is a favorite tradition. We love this trip, which we plan after Labor Day weekend, to avoid crowds and take advantage of cooler temperatures, wildlife on the move and changing scenery as fall colors cloak the hillsides and valleys. This photo is one reason why you should visit a national park in late summer or early fall. Here, aspen cloak Grand Teton National Park. Aspen are also glorious in Yellowstone and Glacier. Many people visit more than one park. OUR NATIONAL parks have something for everyone so it is possible to plan a specific theme of fall fun, whether bird watching, biking, critter spotting or family oriented hiking and photo taking treks. There are bison and bears in Yellowstone, mountain goats in Glacier, mule deer and elk in Bryce Canyon and Zion, big horn sheep in Yosemite, and a variety of these animals in many of our parks, along with lush bird life, squirrels, bobcats, foxes and raccoons. Yosemite and other parks have bike boardwalks, Mesa Verde has cliff dwellings, and Yellowstone of course is famous for its geysers and thermal pools. The Lower Falls at Yellowstone National Park are an annual attraction for millions of visitors. Nature in our national parks is particularly pretty as crowds thin and autumn approaches. If you're a fan of magnificent trees, Sequoia is the national park for you and Utah's Canyonlands and Arches are known for spectacular stargazing. Family or couples hiking is a favorite family sport in Yellowstone and Hawaii's Volcanoes National Park. We have 63 national parks in the United States. We're proud that Yellowstone was the first national park in the world. More than 100 other countries also have national parks, places dedicated to preserving wildlife and nature. There are many on the continent of Africa where you can find mountain gorillas in Uganda's national parks. Gabon, Kenya and Tanzania offer spectacular landscape and large animal viewing. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers in Zion, taking a break during a fun hike. Our neighbor to the north, Canada, has 37 national parks including Banff, Waterton and Jasper. It also has11 national park reserves. From Asia to South America, national parks offer an insight into how countries preserve diverse ecosystems, magical landscapes, and spectacular wildlife. START PLANNING your U.S. park trip by contacting our National Park Service. It offers a wealth of information on preparing for a visit: park maps, calendars, directions, operating hours, where to stay and instructions on obtaining park passes. Prepare by learning how to make a park visit both safe and enjoyable. Get updated information on wildlife activity, road closures and detours and insights into the effects of human actions on the environment. It's a great way to start a family dialogue -- painless learning and opening doors to a lifetime of appreciating these national treasures. If this year isn't in the cards, start planning a visit for 2026. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park, with its iconic and eye-catching cornerstone. laid by President Theodore Roosevelt. MORE INFORMATION: National parks in the United States: nps.gov National parks in Canada: parks.canada.ca Throughout the world: globalnationalparks.com A delightful period set awaits viewers just before the house lights dim, for "The Importance of Being Earnest" at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival's season 90 in Ashland, Oregon. UP NEXT: Oregon Shakespeare Festival offers three magnificent and diverse theaters, a roster of unforgettable performances and production values equal to Broadway's best or London's finest West End shows. We take readers to this gem of a festival in southern Oregon's charming town of Ashland, and look at the plays which make this 90th season one of the festival's best. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, nature, travel, cruising, train trips, city tours, family and more. Please share the link with like minded people: www.whereiscookie.com

"Thare she blows" and then there she goes. as a whale dives after taking a breath of air. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Boarding a boat bound for whale watching is one of life's loveliest pleasures. We've watched whales here in California and around the world, and love the opportunities around Oxnard, Calif. One of our favorite California boating enterprises, Island Packers, successfully weathered the Covid storms of a few years and is thriving with Channel Islands Adventures -- some of the world's best whale watching and more right off our beautiful coast. Island Packers in Oxnard and Ventura offers many options for enjoying the beautiful and varied Channel Islands. Here the boats await eager passengers in Oxnard's colorful marina. Things to do in the marina, a hidden gem on the California coast: Whale Watching Boat to a nature rich preserve and spend the night on a Channel Island Kayak, hike, snorkel and observe birds and marine life up close and personal Island Packers provides Eco-Friendly exploration of the Channel Islands U.S. Marine Life by various means The approach to Anacapa with Island Packers is thrilling, with dolphins aplenty. Island Packers Connects Travelers to California’s Wildest Islands The family operated Island Packers offers many options for enjoying nature's wonders. We enjoy its cruises to the beautiful and varied Channel Islands. It's easy for us -- just a few hours drive from San Diego, and easy journey from Los Angeles. Based in Ventura and Oxnard, Island Packers is less than 10 miles from Channel Islands National Park. Channel Islands Sportfishing is also in Oxnard, offering whale watching along with fine sports fishing. Visitors often enjoy both options as Oxnard is an ideal home base for a sea-driven holiday. A Perfect California Coastal Adventure: Channel Islands Harbor to the Open Ocean Usually, the summer months are the best times to see humpback whales and blue whales, which are attracted by ocean upwellings that bring abundant krill. But because of Oxnard's jutting placement on the water, and the deep channels, there are whales and dolphins all year long. Seeing a magnificent sea creature, knowing you're sharing the planet with this magical being, is a thrill we share whenever we get the chance. Channel Islands Sportfishing offers myriad options for adventure by sea. Why This Channel Islands Company Stands Out We've watched whales in Alaska, Mexico, Hawaii, Iceland, Russia and Norway, always with admiration and awe but going to sea with Island Packers or Channel Island Whale Watching is a real local treat for southern Californians -- and for tourists worldwide who visit here. BEST OF ALL..... The boat ride is as short as it gets to the viewing grounds How to Plan a Channel Islands Adventure from Southern California We researched the options and decided upon these two highly rated outfits, both well established: Island Packers on the West side of the Harbor Channel Islands Whale Watch and Sportfishing, on the East side of the Harbor If you want to catch a fabulous fish, here's your ticket: Channel Island Sportfishing. Both operations have been around since the 1960s, known for their interesting rides and excursions to Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and even Santa Barbara and San Miguel in the Channel Islands. Channel Islands Day Trips and Overnight Adventures with Island Packers A variety of activities awaits -- from whale, dolphin and seal spotting to camping, sport fishing, kayaking energetic hiking and user-friendly family treks. Naturalists with vast knowledge of the area are part of the entertainment. Channel Islands National Park Check out the Painted Cave Exploration, its high on our bucket list with Island Packers. Channel Island Sportfishing puts its emphasis on catching beautiful white sea bass, yellowtail and halibut. It also offers seasonal whale watching expeditions. During the whale migration times they offer guided tours for Wildlife Watching in the Channel Islands National Park where you can see and get up close to a wide variety of Whales, Dolphins, Seabirds and more "Captain Keller" piloted his first boat as a 10-year old boy. Both Island Parkers and Channel Island Sportfishing are well respected businesses. Locals know now they have excellent well informed staff and go beyond the call of duty to accompany unique and memorable journeys into the Channel Islands. Cookie and Keller enjoy a snuggle near Anacapa, where they saw whales, seals, dolphin and a beautiful coastline. Clouds move about invoking the spirits of seafarers and sailors of yore. Sailing with Purpose: How Island Packers Connects Travelers to California’s Wildest Islands Beautiful to approach and largely uninhabited -- except for forest service naturalists -- they form an eight-island archipelago along the Santa Barbara Channel in the Pacific Ocean. Five of them are part of Channel Islands National Park and the beautiful waters surrounding these make up Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary. Whale watching trips include both southbound whales going south to birth their calves, then migrating north with their calves, back up to their feeding grounds in the Arctic.  Whatever your choice, Oxnard's a good place to visit uncrowded waters with friendly staff -- a fruitful learning experience. As for a hotel, there are several but our favorite is Hilton's Hampton Inn Channel Islands Harbor for a pleasant, relaxing place to stay with stunning harbor views, friendly staff and an excellent breakfast. More information or to book: islandpackers.com www.channelislandswhalewatching.com/ *********************************************************************************** History and heritage are a focus of whereiscookie.com "The Carpe Diem Kids." We travel the world as ambassadors for peace, learning about people, art and culture, here in Tallin, Estonia. On Tap: We'll explore the famous Route 66, celebrating its 100th birthday, take a fun walking food tour in Scottsdale, and jump on a Segway. Check back often as we share wonders of spring whale watching off the California coast and new shows in Las Vegas. We're always on the look out for fun people, fine food, nature's wonders, music, museums and unique architecture. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us often for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Abundant, attractive sheep are a constant presence on the Faroe Islands, which also boasts exotic bird life. QUIET, VERDANT REMOTE NORDIC ISLANDS ATTRACT ADVENTURERS, HIKERS, BIRD AND NATURE LOVERS STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Keller rests above a river after a muddy but beautiful hike above Klaksvik. LOOKING FOR a destination beyond the ordinary? The Faroe Islands deliver dramatic cliffs, scenic hikes, puffin colonies, and peaceful Nordic charm-- all without the crowds of Iceland. Discover why this remote archipelago is one of Europe’s best-kept travel secrets and why the Faroe Islands should be on your travel bucket list if you wish to explore dramatic cliffs, waterfalls, puffins, and untouched Nordic beauty. THE FAROE ISLANDS  has an exotic appeal -- "far away from civilization are we," our guide told us during a day-long venture. We stopped on a recent trans-Atlantic crossing, and were delighted by the guide's wit and erudition, and his country's mountains, valleys and grassy cliffs. Then, even better, we beheld a lush variety of  birds and sheep -- a delightful bonus. Klaksvik is a  picturesque cruise port, with tidy homes and streets, between two seas: the Norwegian Sea and North Sea. On a day-long hike out of Klaksvik, we slogged through a bog in search of  a stunning view from the mountain top. It was a bit soggy and damp but ultimately sunny and beautiful. AT LAST  it came and we were rewarded.  Although an occasionally steep and challenging journey -- wet and muddy at times -- we had a splendid reward for our persistence. Cookie braved the occasional sprinkles to hike several miles above Klaksvik, Faroe Islands. The  Faroe islands (although "islands" is usually plural, it's a collective, singular noun, our guide confirmed) is an archipelago between the Norwegian Sea and the North Atlantic Ocean, halfway between Norway and Iceland, 320 kilometers or 200 miles north-northwest of Great Britain. My grandfather Gustav's Norsemen forebears settled the islands around 800, bringing the Old Norse language that evolved into today's Faroese. To my ears, Faroese sounds similar to Icelandic, with the lyrical lilt of Norwegian. It is very musical to this Norsky-Irish hybrid. ACCORDING TO Icelandic sagas, one of the best known men in the island was the brave and dashing Trondur i Gotu, a descendant of Scandinavian chiefs who settled in Dublin, Ireland. Tróndur took on the Norwegian monarchy and the Norwegian church, fighting bravely to claim the islands. The area is small -- only 1,400 square kilometers, or 540 square miles. Its popular is only is dwindling -- only 48,700. Salmon are raised in these netted tanks near the cruise port. "We're struggling to entice our young people to stay here," our guide told us. "Once they cross the waters to Copenhagen or Oslo, they go to university, meet people, taste city life, marry, and don't come back." WE FOUND  the people of Klaksvik open and welcoming, articulate, witty and understated, much like my Norwegian cousins.  Of course there's a connection:  We learned from our guide that 1035 and 1814, the Faroe Islands were part of the Kingdom of Norway.  The 1814 Treaty of Kiel granted Denmark control over the islands, along with two other Norwegian regions: Greenland and Iceland. The Faroe Islands has been a self-governing country of the Danish Realm since 1948.  Hikers are rewarded with a  bird's  eye view from the mountain top. THE FAROESE  control domestic matters; Denmark handles military defense, police, justice, currency and foreign affairs. As a self-governing archipelago, the Faroe Islands is represented in the Nordic Council, part of the Danish delegation. 18 rocky, volcanic islands make up the Faroe Islands, scattered between Iceland and Norway in the North Atlantic Ocean and -- connected by road tunnels, ferries, causeways and bridges. Hikers and bird-watchers are drawn to the islands’ mountains, valleys and grassy heathland, and steep coastal cliffs that harbor thousands of seabirds. MORE INFORMATION: visitfaroeislands.com

Red Rock Canyon beckons our roadies away from gambling, with a leisurely 13-mile scenic drive through the Mojave Desert. ROCKS OF RED, 'VALLEY OF FIRE' LURE VETERAN PLAYERS AWAY FROM THE CASINO INTO NATURE Rock climbing offers challenges on a variety of trails in Red Rock. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 'The Carpe Diem Kids' The "Red Rocks of Nevada" typically refers to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, a massive 195,819-acre natural preserve located just 17 miles west of the Las Vegas Strip. It is famous for its towering red sandstone cliffs, ancient petroglyphs, and a 13-mile one-way scenic drive. WHEN YOU'VE  grown weary of badgering Lady Luck in Las Vegas, put down your Blackjack chips and head for the beautiful and calming red rocks and inspiring geological formations near the famous Strip. Most people are aware of Sedona's towering red rocks, and the flamboyant reds and oranges of Utah's Bryce Canyon. You might not know of two natural treasures for the outdoor buff visiting Nevada, Red Rocks of Nevada A tour bus carries a group of "scooter" enthusiasts, who took their vehicles on short, scenic journeys. TWO PARKS  await your perusal and we tried them both, creating two relaxing day trips to divert us from the happy craziness of our periodic gambling outings. If you bring your pets, be sure to carry enough water for all! We did, for Nick and Nora and us. Red Rocks Canyon of Nevada is a delight.  Maximum speed limit on its gorgeous 13-mile scenic drive is 35 miles per hour, and we went slower through most of it, to give it adequate attention.   The Mojave desert was not yet in the three-digit range a couple weeks ago (it is now), and we had beautiful, sunny days for our outings, with a little breeze to help cool us. WE REVELED  in spectacular scenery and shared stunning views with other motorists, hikers, bicyclists, motorcyclists and even a few daring runners. Craggy canyons challenge hikers and offer views of breathtaking proportion. Since leashed pets are welcome, we took Nick and Nora on both outings.  We packed a couple large bottles of water, and the four of us drank them both. Do take note of the need for water, even if the temperatures are mild.  The desert air is dry and the sun is bright, so you'll find yourself thirstier than normal. A beautiful day or two in nature are just what one needs to slow the pace and enjoy nature's beauty. OUR OUTINGS   were designed as nature-driven counterpoints to the seductive clink-clank buzz of casino life. Moss on rocks provide texture, beauty. Inspired by Red Rock, we visited Valley of Fire State Park for our other day trip. While Red Rock is 30 minutes west of Las Vegas, Valley of Fire is an hour-plus northeast. Both are worthy outings, at $10 each (your national park pass works at Red Rock.) But beware the encroaching hot season when temperatures can reach 120 degrees! WE LOVE  the man-made glitter of Las Vegas, but it's important to us to explore the natural world, too. We live comfortably in both these diverse worlds,  with our hikes and nature forays in the morning and early afternoon (we packed a picnic lunch and greenie treats for the Yorkies).  Then back to our favorite Flamingo Hotel with its bird sanctuary, a nap and shower and night on the town with a Las Vegas show. Nature's show to begin the day -- and a glitzy Vegas performance to cap the night! Perfect blend. UP NEXT: The Mob Museum in Las Vegas offers another opportunity to escape the seductive buzz of the casino world.  Located in "old" Las Vegas, near the fabled hotels of the early-day city, the museum features three floors of crime and criminal behavior, a fascinating effort.  You'll learn about mobsters and their molls, explore the evolution of crime in U.S. cities, and learn about the lawmen and women who cracked criminal cases. The Mob Museum in Las Vegas offers a thoughtfully curated study of the evolution of crime and those who fought it, in major U.S. cities. It's a fun activity in "Sin City" and a pleasant break from the casinos.

Wading, not quite walking, on the water, sisters Cookie, left, and Olivia, make their way to the wedding on Beverly Beach. Behind them, sister Misha and family friend Virginia join the wedding party for Kira and Mike. Flower girls sprinkle rose petals along the sand, making way for the bride and groom. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  Gallavant: to go from place to place seeking out entertainment and amusement-- Oxford Dictionary  THIS SUMMER  -- more than any I've experienced in my decades on Earth -- hits home a profound awareness of the brevity of our spin on this wondrous planet. We're celebrating, mourning, mending, toasting, feasting, seeing fine plays, greeting family, "gallavanting," as my Irish gran would have said, experiencing the joys and sorrows of life. Friends are fighting illness and loss, a brother is just home from the hospital after four surgeries. We've sent cards of congratulations -- for birthdays, graduations and wedding anniversaries. We've also posted a dozen sympathy cards and attended a half-dozen memorial services since the holidays. WE'VE 'WADED  in the water,' we're fording the proverbial stream of  "Climb Every Mountain," and we're keeping an eye on the raging forest fires in my native Montana. Gathering rosebuds: Newlyweds Kira and Mike. Bride Kira Cosgriffe Hill, right, and from left, Cosgriffe sisters Misha Minesinger, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Olivia Cosgriffe. We're seeing nine plays in Ashland, at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, a family tradition, and savoring memories of a splendid family reunion surrounding the wedding. Groom Mike Hill, left, and master builder Bruce Keller, dismantle the trellis under which Kira and Mike exchanged vows a few days ago.  I'm thinking of a poem my late husband Bruce Meyers taught his writing students. "To the Virgins, to Make Much of Time" has stood the test of time and fits my mood today. Written by English Cavalier poet Robert Herrick in the 17th century, the poem is in the genre of my favorite saying -- carpe diem, Latin for seize the day. Herrick entreated: "Gather ye rosebuds while ye may, Old Time is still a-flying...." FOR US,  this two-week odyssey epitomizes his verse.  For we are gathering rosebuds.  The trip represents a return to our cherished world of travel, after Keller's successful liver transplant of exactly twelve weeks ago. We delighted in the picturesque reunion setting on the beautiful Oregon coast. Niece Kira and Mike love Beverly Beach, their choice for the wedding. (We didn't think we'd make it, until a few days before when Cookie and Keller are celebrating, too. Ten years together, a wedding, and a raft of extraordinary plays in Oregon. Keller helped photograph the wedding. Raised on the ocean north of San Diego, he is most at home near water.  excellent scans and bloodwork convinced our doctors we were okay for travel, weeks earlier than originally dictated thanks to Keller's record recovery.) Nick and Nora, above, make themselves at home in favorite hotels, Ashland Hills and  Ashland Springs, both pet friendly digs. WHILE WE MONITOR  forest fires in Big Sky Country, near Bozeman, we are thankful for safety of our Stillwater County home.  I spent the first weeks of my life in Bozeman, with my university-student parents, and we mourn the loss of wildlife and bird habitat in gorgeous Gallatin and Madison counties.  Neighbors along the Stillwater say the smoke is horrible.  We smell it even here in southern Oregon, where we're based for the Festival plays. We're sad that my native state has had to spend nearly $30 million fighting the blazes.  As part-time Californians, we're proud that my adopted state has sent aid. High Chaparral in Montana, is -- knock wood -- free of fire this season, but much of Montana is sadly shrouded in smoke and flames. As a longtime fan of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, I'm thrilled to be back in Ashland -- for the fourth time with Keller.  Through the years, the festival has been a balm through good times and sad for the family.  I've purchased seats in the Angus Bowmer Theatre to honor both my late husbands, Bruce Meyers and Bill Jones, and am planning to honor my parents' memories there, too. Some of several loved ones' ashes are sprinkled in Lithia Park and Ashland Creek, and memories of my late sisters and our mutual love of theater surround me as I sit in the three splendid theaters, thrilled with each dimming of  the house lights. A family reunion, spurred by the wedding of Kira Cosgriffe and Mike Hill. I think of all I'm thankful for: family, fun, birds, friends, the Yorkies Nick and Nora, and of course theater.  I am grateful for a life of travel and the arts, for having some talents,  and for the ability to be generous, to take chances, to love. I am happy to be again strolling the village of Ashland, reprising dozens of visits.  We make our way up the hill to hike around much loved Lithia Park. I listen to bird song, look for deer and squirrels, feed the ducks. THIS BEAUTIFUL   PARK  opened in 1892, the year of my maternal grandparents' birth. They introduced me to the phrase "carpe diem."  And taught me the art of gathering those precious rosebuds! Cookie and Keller today on the grounds of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, celebrating life! NEXT UP : Ashland, Oregon, home to the internationally known Oregon Shakespeare Festival, is thrilling crowds with its stellar season of work in three beautifully designed theaters. Since the late 1950s, it has been part of Cookie's life. We share its wonders next Friday.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends for a unique twist on travel, nature, family and the arts.

During a period of challenge, loss and tragedy, a fine production of "A Chorus Line" at Welk Theatre, buoys the writer's spirit and gives her hope as she remembers a talented friend and colleague. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" This week's column bids farewell to a longtime treader of the boards and theatrical talent while saluting new productions. Our late friend, Karen Jackson, could have played several roles and sung "Tits and Ass" or "What I Did for Love."  Although she never smoked and seldom drank, Karen Jackson could vamp it up. Her memorial is in Billings this Saturday.  Everything was beautiful at the ballet Graceful men lift lovely girls in white Yes, everything was beautiful at balle t Hey! I was happy... at the ballet --  from "A Chorus Line" Karen Jackson, second from left, would second the motion that theater can heal, comfort, elevate, stretch us.  THIS WEEK's column is part eulogy, part testimonial. It weaves a tribute to my friend, Karen Jackson, with our mutual love of theater and kudos for a quartet of fine productions we've seen this week in San Diego. Karen Jackson's life will be celebrated in Billings Montana, Saturday. She died before the holidays after a brief, ferocious battle with cancer. Critical care for my beloved Yorkie, Nora, and my partner Bruce Keller's Scripps post-transplant tests prevent my being in Montana for the tribute, championed by Karen's longtime collaborator Julie Omvig. Another actor-mime friend of theater, Bonnie Banks, will read my piece. Bruce Keller and Cookie in Coronado for "Babette's Feast." I KNOW  Karen would want us to "go on with the show, so celebrating her love of theater, we're seeing seven plays in two weeks here in San Diego.  With each one, I toast Karen's memory and think how much fun we'd have sitting side by side as the house lights dim. A beautiful, melancholy story of love, loss, longing and life's paths not taken, "Bloomsday" runs at North Coast Repertory Theatre through Feb. 2. northcoastrep.org .  --photo by Aaron Rumley The lovely line from "Everything Was Beautiful at the Ballet" epitomizes what theater does for us, for our souls, our peace of mind, our place in the world. Theater transports us, opens larger worlds. Karen did that. MY EULOGY: Lamb's Players Theatre in Coronado mounted a lovely production of "Babette's Feast." The west coast premier runs through Feb. 16. lambsplayers.org   When I think of Karen, I laugh.  She was one of the funniest people I worked with. In many musical collaborations, we sometimes shared the ladies' dressing room.  At Gramma’s Drammas in the late 1970s, Karen was brilliant as the formidable Carrie Nation in Barry Manilow’s “The Drunkard.” I was music director. One night, the house manager called "five-minutes" as we crammed Karen into her corset. We giggled as we reached the top snap, about to fasten it when it blew! The girdle whipped off Karen and hit the wall.  We collapsed in laughter. As we wrestled it a second time into submission, I quipped, “Well, I guess that rules out breathing.” Karen deadpanned: “Who’s breathing?”     Karen Jackson, right, with her longtime collaborator in dozens of productions, Julie Omvig, who organized Saturday's 3 p.m. celebration of life for Karen. Karen cultivated her gift for making us laugh to an art form, at Gramma’s Drammas, Billings Studio Theatre and Calamity Jane’s.  Like many comics, her sense of humor was her salvation.  She suffered sorrow, disappointment, deep personal losses, including a beloved brother and many adored pets. Like all of us in theater, she picked herself up, started over again. The show must go on.  Karen’s caustic look and withering eye masked a heart the size of Texas.  Her humor coped with hurt, buoyed us up, helped us cope.  What a wonderful gift she gave us in making us laugh – at the world, our town, our foibles.   "The Humans" at San Diego Repertory Theatre is on stage through Feb. 2. Funny, troubling, textured, Karen Jackson would have loved it and probably played the mother. sdrep.org  --Photo by Jim Carmody And that voice. Expressive, perfect timing.  Karen was versatile.  A comedienne extraordinaire, she also melted hearts with her ballads. I loved being in her company off stage, and accompanying her on stage.  We shared a lifelong love of musical theater; she was one of the few people who knew every tune I played from The Great American Songbook.  Our tastes were similarly eclectic: Rodgers and Hammerstein, Jerome Kern, Kander and Ebb, Harold Arlen, the Gershwins, Cole Porter, Stephen Sondheim.  When “Company” debuted in the early 1970s, I suggested we sing Karen Jackson, third from left, was a gifted clown with a fabulous voice, here in one of her many Calamity Jane's roles. "You Could Drive a Person Crazy.” HOW I WISH  that had happened.  We did collaborate though, on several Sondheim pieces when Bruce and I, Todd Yeager and  Karen and a half-dozen other talents sold out the house in  Skip Lundby’s BST “off-nights.” Karen sang two Sondheim ballads. Todd and I sang “Class,” that irreverent “Chicago” lament. Karen Jackson, upper left, as Carrie Nation in Barry Manilow's "The Drunkard" at Gramma's Drammas in Billings. Besides timing, humor, stage presence, Karen exhibited grace. She usually aced the lead, but one time, not. She auditioned for Sally Bowles in our 1977 BST production of “Cabaret.” As head of the bawdy Kit-Kat Band, I listened to her deliver the title song perfectly. However, the lead went to Kathy McCarty. Karen graciously agreed to play Fraulein Kost, who lives down the hall in the boarding house. It's not a huge role but she stole the show with her haunting “Tomorrow Belongs To Me,” creating a Karen Jackson, seated with cane and dog, had hundreds of roles, dozens of faces. A natural clown who could sing!  memorable cameo. What a pro. Bruce Meyers was a splendid emcee and Todd, her life partner, was Cliff Bradshaw, the writer who travels to Berlin and falls for Sally. The four of us formed a fast bond during that long-ago show. Karen and I would be orchestra center for "Murder for Two," an inventive new musical coming soon to New Village Arts. It features JD Dumas and Tony Houck. (Karen and I would audition, too!)   newvillagearts.org  -- Photo by Daren Scott  THEN IN 1979,  when Bruce and I saw Len Cariou and Angela Lansbury in Broadway's “Sweeney Todd,” I dreamed of Bruce and Karen collaborating again. Todd would play Judge Turpin. Julie would be Lucy Barker. Vint Lavinder would be Pirelli or the Beadle.  Cameos for all, a huge chorus of friends. I would be music director. Skip Lundby would direct. It would be magnificent.  But that was not to be, so we save it for a heavenly encore. Everyone on both sides of the footlights loved Karen's humor, grace, compassion, enormous talent, her ability to make us laugh, shed a therapeutic tear. Heaven sent us a gifted clown and now has called her back. “Isn’t it rich?” Yes, she was.  Rich, rare, one of a kind.  How we miss, cherish and honor her.    Karen's life will be celebrated Jan. 18 from 3-5 p.m. at the Columbia Club (former Knights of Columbus) 2216 Grand Ave., Billings, Montana) Sisters Misha Minesinger, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Olivia Cosgriffe (in red) and niece Amarylla Ganner, enjoy their "jumpers" or "jackets" which we Americans refer to as sweaters and coats. UP NEXT:  "Brit Speak, America Speak" could be the title of our next column, a lively essay about the differences in language and word play, with the Atlantic Ocean dividing them. Jumpers are sweaters, nappies are diapers, and a boot might be what we Yanks call the trunk of a car. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, family, love, loss and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

Well fed bison roam near Norris Junction in Yellowstone National Park, with geysers spouting behind them. The Roosevelt Arch, approaching Mammoth from withinn the park, honors  Teddy Roosevelt's guiding spirit in establishing the park system. Yellowstone Park's founder and patron saint. BISON, WOLVES, ELK  MOOSE AND BEARS, OH MY! STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Bruce Keller, left, and Rick Cosgriffe, right, enjoy a photography session on a four-day journey through Yellowstone. They frame a grazing cow elk.  YELLOWSTONE is beautiful in all four seasons. But my favorite time is autumn, when the air is clean and there's frost on the ground in the morning. When the tourist rush is over and the critters are on the move.  Winter's in the wings and the deer and elk are mating and making lots of noise. Grizzlies azn sometimes be seen near the Cody Entrance, as here.  A gorgeous wolf is one of two packs lovingly tended at the Grizzly and Wolf Encounter Center in West Yellowstone The bison and bears are fattening up -- and  at the West Yellowstone's wonderful Bear and Wolf Discovery Center, you can see close-up the critters you might not spot roaming in the park. The Center rescues, cares for and exhibits in a natural habitat animals who for various reasons cannot be returned to the wild. We spent three hours enjoying the lectures and films and watching well tended critters rooting for food hidden  for Sam, the largest of the West Yellowstone Grizzly and Wolf Center roots around for food hidden by the trainers. them to find. WHATEVER PART of Yellowstone's glorious two million acres we visit, Teddy Roosevelt's best gift to the country shines like a well loved tiara.  We hiked several of the park's 1,210 miles of marked trails, seeing many. We usually stay at Lake Yellowstone Hotel or Old Faithful Inn, but this time opted to stay in West Yellowstone and drive in daily.  This allowed a leisurely afternoon at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West, a true gem which cares for and makes comfortable animals who cannot be returned to the wild.  Taking our great-niece along was a benefit.  Seeing the park through young, excited eyes reminds us of its wonder.  Geyser discoverers, clockwise from left: Bruce Keller, Rick Cosgriffe, Christene (Cookie) Meyers and Elliana Broscious exploring Yellowstone.  NEXT UP : Part two of our photographic essay on the park features the phenomenal geysers which help make it a destination for international travelers and family looking to entertain and educate all generations.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for our weekend post.

And they're off! British guests John and Sue Speight, left and second from right, visited Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Bruce Keller and Nick and Nora recently, for a week of travel through south-central Montana and into Yellowstone National Park. Thumbs up to Yellowstone Lake and the historic Lake Hotel from our English visitors, John and Sue Speight, of Yorkshire, with Bruce Keller. They enjoyed our "off the beaten path" tour of our corner of Montana. FUN TO SEE IT THROUGH THE EYES OF OTHERS AS WE FOUND WITH BRIT PALS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  is best shared with friends -- and most pleasantly, with chums from another country. We showed off the nation's oldest national park recently to our friends, John and Sue Speight, an adventuresome English couple we met a few years ago on a Southeast Asia cruise. Stellar view from Lake Hotel, the park's oldest accommodation . A few years ago, we hit it off at our table on Celebrity's Millennium, traveling together to Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong and Vietnam. We share a love of travel, nature and the outdoors -- they own a farm and bed and breakfast in Yorkshire and we spend part of the year in the rural Northern Rockies. We all love to read and enjoy music. So when we discovered Yellowstone was on their bucket list, we offered ourselves as tour guides, and they accepted with pleasure.  Next year, we'll visit them in Yorkshire and they'll show us the sights of this lively, lovely and historic part of the United Kingdom. Up the Sioux Charley trail near Nye, Montana, a prelude to several days in Yellowstone National Park.  Here John and Sue Speight and Christene. THE TWO  flew from their home to Denver and spent two days driving through Colorado and Wyoming to our Montana place not far from Red Lodge.  We knew they would be tired before tackling the park, so we began our week together with short jaunts to Red Lodge, Roscoe and a hike up the Stillwater Gorge towards Lake Sioux Charley. Splendid Sioux Charley hike They were amazed at the vastness of the American West.  They're accustomed to driving through a country or two in a day on the Continent, and can be at their vacation home in southern Spain in hours -- from door to door. Sue and John Speight joined tourists estimated to reach near 4 million this year, in their visit to Yellowstone National Park, here at the Lower Falls. SO TAKING into account the expanse of Yellowstone -- and our limited time together -- we decided to tailor a tour to their desires and interests. They'd never seen a wolf or bear outside of the Discovery Channel, and we knew we hadn't much of a chance of spotting either critter on the parks busy summer roads. So we decided to take them to the wonderful Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone.   Stop and smell the roses -- and taste the cappuccino, here at the charming Piccola Cucina in Red Lodge. WE'D WRITTEN  about this delightful place before, where birds and animals that cannot be returned to the wilderness are cared for.  Exhibits, films and demonstrations delighted our friends and the four of us spent a lovely afternoon there after a fun lunch at Bullwinkle's.  That was most of one of three full YP days, which included driving from our Lake Hotel base to places  which we knew would be less crowded. The area around Norris fascinated them with its geysers, hot pots and well designed boardwalk.   Bison in the fields and on the roads were a highlight for our guests from Yorkshire, England. BECAUSE WE KNOW what high summer season means in terms of crowds, lines and slow-moving traffic, we asked them to prioritize. "You're in charge," said Sue. "You know your park and the highlights -- and we appreciate avoiding crowds as much as possible." We studied Yellowstone's main road, the Grand Loop, and decided we could not tackle the entire loop -- even in the three days we had with them. Our "scenic tour" actually began before the park, because we'd driven into Yellowstone via Bozeman, Big Sky and the beautiful Gallatin Canyon, on US Highway 191.  We'd also spent two days exploring the Red Lodge, Roscoe and Stillwater areas, so our guests already had an introduction to the wonders of Montana's back roads. We decided to skip the places we knew would be crowded. That included the most visited attraction of the park, Old Faithful, the Old Faithful Inn and the pools on the walking paths. Fine with our fellow crowd-avoiders.   A visit to Lake Hotel is a must, even if you're not staying there. The beautiful lobby features live music and the restaurant is tops. OUR BRITS  enjoyed what we chose instead -- the hot pots, petrified sequoia and a colorful exit through Mammoth and Gardiner where they posed by Teddy Roosevelt's arch. We also nixed the Grand Canyon's Artist Point view of the Lower Falls, the most traditional stopping off point.  Because it was backed up with cars and campers, and Uncle Tom's was under construction, we took our guests instead to Lookout Point, a stunning vista of the falls, closer to Canyon Village with an active osprey nest. They also enjoyed a hike into Fountain Pots near day's end, when the crowds thinned. And they saw geysers at Norris Junction, without the crushing Old Faithful crowds. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see the wonders and we also saw bison aplenty. WE AVERAGED 35 or 40 miles an hour in our guests' car, taking our time, stopping as bison meandered across the roads and into the fields to graze. A few times we were at a standstill. Try the park off-season It's 142 miles around Yellowstone's main loop, which doesn't sound like much, but with stops and starts, it can be at least five to seven hours. Most people split it into at least two days. You may not see a grizzly bear in Yellowstone, but you can enjoy friendly service and fine Montana fare at the Grizzly Bar in Roscoe. Our best advice for delivering a thumbs-up tour for guests -- foreign or domestic -- is to give them something unusual.  If they want to avoid crowds, as our Brit pals did, and wish to soak up a few spectacular parts of your area, take them to favorite local places. Once in the park, there are plenty of mud pots, geysers and pools aside from the most famous ones.  OUR GUESTS  were thrilled that they did get to see a grizzly -- up close. We took them to a delightful dinner at the friendly Grizzly Bar in Roscoe. Complete with tasty, grass-fed Montana burgers. Four gentlemen decide to give up women and other "distractions" in "Love's Labour's Lost" -- here on stage at Fishtail Family Park. UP NEXT:  Montana's beloved Shakespeare in the Parks has been delighting people in five states for 46 years.  We take you on the road with the troupe, presenting two of the Bard's classic works in 61 venues with nearly 80 performances.  We enjoyed "Love's Labour's Lost" this week at the Fishtail Family Park. We'll let you know how to catch the company for "Love's Labour's Lost" and "Othello."  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post each week, a fresh twist on the arts, travel, nature, family and more.  whereiscookie.com

Remembering the days of yore, Christene "Cookie" Meyers checks out the John and Yoko suite at Amsterdam Hilton.  BEATLES FANS VISIT FAMOUS HOTEL SUITE REMEMBERED FOR 1969 "BED IN" The hotel is a smart, stylish property and the "John and Yoko suite" pays homage to the famous couple's peaceful protest there 50 years ago. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" John and Yoko's peaceful Dutch 'Love In' for Peace, occured at what is now the Hilton Amsterdam. In the spring of 1969, at the height of global unrest and the ongoing Vietnam War, newlyweds John Lennon and Yoko Ono checked into Room 702 not for privacy, but for publicity. What followed was their now-iconic “Bed-In for Peace,” a week-long, media-savvy protest that blurred the lines between performance art, activism, and celebrity culture. From their bed, they welcomed journalists, spoke out against war, and created one of the most memorable peace demonstrations of the 20th century. "You may say I'm a dreamer, But I'm not the only one. I hope someday you'll join us, And the world will live as one." -- from 'Imagine', on its 48th anniversary Stylish architecture and plush amenities are offered for those who wish to pay $2,000-plus a night. WE ALL REMEMBER  the photos. The famous couple staged two week-long Bed-Ins for Peace, one at the Hilton Hotel in Amsterdam and one at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel in Montreal. We visited the first hotel on a recent trip to the Netherlands, spending a week in this quiet, peaceful corner of Amsterdam. "Peaceful" is the key word here for the two hotel visits were intended to be nonviolent protests against wars and experimental tests of new ways to promote peace. Our host for a tour of the famous suite was the hotel's delightful public relations specialist, Anastasija, who is too young to remember the time in which the non-violent events occurred.  John Lennon and Yoko Ono in bed, surrounded by flowers, signs and musical instruments. Photographer Eric Koch faked a press card to gain entrance to the famous "Bed In" and the couple preferred his photos to others taken that week. She smiled as she told the stories, though, including comments from journalists covering the event. "They remarked that the two were welcoming to visitors and the press, but that the room began to smell a bit toward the end of the week. As part of the protest, they did not bathe." The Amsterdam property has enlarged the original John and Yoko room into a small suite which is in high demand at $2,090 a night (1899 Euros). The guestbook boasts signatures of happy couples from Japan to Australia, Germany, Spain and the United Kingdom. The couple had recently married in Gibraltar and many honeymooners stay there now. Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers in the John and Yoko suite, Amsterdam Hilton, overlooking a lovely canal. THE BATHROOM   of 50 years ago was not as plush as today's expanded room with its large oval bathtub, separate walk-in shower, plush bathrobes and slippers, plus other VIP amenities. The idea for the 1969 event derived from the era's popular "sit ins" when protesters seated themselves in front of or inside an establishment until they were evicted, arrested, or had their demands met. THERE ARE IRONIES  and anecdotes to the famous visit.  The Hilton was not the first choice for John and Yoko's peaceful love-in. The couple tried other properties, and Hilton accepted their reservation knowing that the visit might attract international attention.  "We have certainly benefited from the event," Anastasija commented. And, she agreed, the other Dutch hotel which declined to host the couple has probably had regrets. A sketch made by the pair is now used in advertising the suite which is tastefully decorated with John and Yoko memorabilia. Among the nostalgic objects are a copy of one of his guitars, many photographs, sketches and notebooks. A stroll from the hotel takes the tourist past lovely canals and many bikers. We loved the location of the hotel, a 10-minute walk from  Holland's fabled Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Vondelpark. If the couple had been hungry they could have feasted at Roberto's,  or sipped a cocktail at the Half Moon Lounge, an inviting garden terrace with splendid canal views in a luxurious residential area. INSTEAD , they ate little and when they did, it was a few spoonsful of cold Campbell's soup. What did the peace-in teach us? Most believe it had little effect on the war, but its artistic contribution lives on. Says one scholar of the period, "The idea that sitting in bed for a week might have caused Richard Nixon to revise his foreign policy looks a tad hopeful, to say the least." NEXT UP:  Next time in Europe, try a delightful "taste and tour" opportunity.  We just did in London and happily recommend Eating Europe Food Tours now in many European cities.  The innovative concept combines eating and touring -- fine food at several stops with lively, expert guides sharing best-kept food and drink secrets with a learned nod to history. London's Eating Europe tour offered a delightful  mix of tastings from spicy curry to sticky pudding  and fish and chips served in newspaper. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a unique view of travel, the arts, nature, family, food and more. www.whereiscookie.com