Search Results

And they're off! British guests John and Sue Speight, left and second from right, visited Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Bruce Keller and Nick and Nora recently, for a week of travel through south-central Montana and into Yellowstone National Park. Thumbs up to Yellowstone Lake and the historic Lake Hotel from our English visitors, John and Sue Speight, of Yorkshire, with Bruce Keller. They enjoyed our "off the beaten path" tour of our corner of Montana. FUN TO SEE IT THROUGH THE EYES OF OTHERS AS WE FOUND WITH BRIT PALS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  is best shared with friends -- and most pleasantly, with chums from another country. We showed off the nation's oldest national park recently to our friends, John and Sue Speight, an adventuresome English couple we met a few years ago on a Southeast Asia cruise. Stellar view from Lake Hotel, the park's oldest accommodation . A few years ago, we hit it off at our table on Celebrity's Millennium, traveling together to Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong and Vietnam. We share a love of travel, nature and the outdoors -- they own a farm and bed and breakfast in Yorkshire and we spend part of the year in the rural Northern Rockies. We all love to read and enjoy music. So when we discovered Yellowstone was on their bucket list, we offered ourselves as tour guides, and they accepted with pleasure.  Next year, we'll visit them in Yorkshire and they'll show us the sights of this lively, lovely and historic part of the United Kingdom. Up the Sioux Charley trail near Nye, Montana, a prelude to several days in Yellowstone National Park.  Here John and Sue Speight and Christene. THE TWO  flew from their home to Denver and spent two days driving through Colorado and Wyoming to our Montana place not far from Red Lodge.  We knew they would be tired before tackling the park, so we began our week together with short jaunts to Red Lodge, Roscoe and a hike up the Stillwater Gorge towards Lake Sioux Charley. Splendid Sioux Charley hike They were amazed at the vastness of the American West.  They're accustomed to driving through a country or two in a day on the Continent, and can be at their vacation home in southern Spain in hours -- from door to door. Sue and John Speight joined tourists estimated to reach near 4 million this year, in their visit to Yellowstone National Park, here at the Lower Falls. SO TAKING into account the expanse of Yellowstone -- and our limited time together -- we decided to tailor a tour to their desires and interests. Wolf, Bear Discovery Center a treat They'd never seen a wolf or bear outside of the Discovery Channel, and we knew we hadn't much of a chance of spotting either critter on the parks busy summer roads. So we decided to take them to the wonderful Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone.   Stop and smell the roses -- and taste the cappuccino, here at the charming Piccola Cucina in Red Lodge. WE'D WRITTEN  about this delightful place before, where birds and animals that cannot be returned to the wilderness are cared for.  Exhibits, films and demonstrations delighted our friends and the four of us spent a lovely afternoon there after a fun lunch at Bullwinkle's.  That was most of one of three full YP days, which included driving from our Lake Hotel base to places  which we knew would be less crowded. The area around Norris fascinated them with its geysers, hot pots and well designed boardwalk.   Bison in the fields and on the roads were a highlight for our guests from Yorkshire, England. BECAUSE WE KNOW what high summer season means in terms of crowds, lines and slow-moving traffic, we asked them to prioritize. "You're in charge," said Sue. "You know your park and the highlights -- and we appreciate avoiding crowds as much as possible." We studied Yellowstone's main road, the Grand Loop, and decided we could not tackle the entire loop -- even in the three days we had with them. Our "scenic tour" actually began before the park, because we'd driven into Yellowstone via Bozeman, Big Sky and the beautiful Gallatin Canyon, on US Highway 191.  We'd also spent two days exploring the Red Lodge, Roscoe and Stillwater areas, so our guests already had an introduction to the wonders of Montana's back roads. We decided to skip the places we knew would be crowded. That included the most visited attraction of the park, Old Faithful, the Old Faithful Inn and the pools on the walking paths. Fine with our fellow crowd-avoiders.   A visit to Lake Hotel is a must, even if you're not staying there. The beautiful lobby features live music and the restaurant is tops. OUR BRITS  enjoyed what we chose instead -- the hot pots, petrified sequoia and a colorful exit through Mammoth and Gardiner where they posed by Teddy Roosevelt's arch. We also nixed the Grand Canyon's Artist Point view of the Lower Falls, the most traditional stopping off point.  Because it was backed up with cars and campers, and Uncle Tom's was under construction, we took our guests instead to Lookout Point, a stunning vista of the falls, closer to Canyon Village with an active osprey nest. They also enjoyed a hike into Fountain Pots near day's end, when the crowds thinned. And they saw geysers at Norris Junction, without the crushing Old Faithful crowds. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see the wonders and we also saw bison aplenty. WE AVERAGED 35 or 40 miles an hour in our guests' car, taking our time, stopping as bison meandered across the roads and into the fields to graze. A few times we were at a standstill. Try the park off-season It's 142 miles around Yellowstone's main loop, which doesn't sound like much, but with stops and starts, it can be at least five to seven hours. Most people split it into at least two days. You may not see a grizzly bear in Yellowstone, but you can enjoy friendly service and fine Montana fare at the Grizzly Bar in Roscoe. Our best advice for delivering a thumbs-up tour for guests -- foreign or domestic -- is to give them something unusual.  If they want to avoid crowds, as our Brit pals did, and wish to soak up a few spectacular parts of your area, take them to favorite local places. Once in the park, there are plenty of mud pots, geysers and pools aside from the most famous ones.  OUR GUESTS  were thrilled that they did get to see a grizzly -- up close. We took them to a delightful dinner at the friendly Grizzly Bar in Roscoe. Complete with tasty, grass-fed Montana burgers. Four gentlemen decide to give up women and other "distractions" in "Love's Labour's Lost" -- here on stage at Fishtail Family Park. UP NEXT:  Montana's beloved Shakespeare in the Parks has been delighting people in five states for 46 years.  We take you on the road with the troupe, presenting two of the Bard's classic works in 61 venues with nearly 80 performances.  We enjoyed "Love's Labour's Lost" this week at the Fishtail Family Park. We'll let you know how to catch the company for "Love's Labour's Lost" and "Othello."  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post each week, a fresh twist on the arts, travel, nature, family and more.  whereiscookie.com

Elliana Broscious, eight, had never touched a cello, but was making a pleasant sound by the end of an impromptu lesson.  FAMILY CONCERTS OFFERS OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN FROM THE PROS AT UNIQUE MONTANA ART CENTER    Violinist Krista Bennion Feeney played "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" after showing aspiring violinists a few points at Tippet Rise this week. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER TIME SPENT  with a brilliant musician can be life-altering for a child with a song in her heart. Such is the case at the Tippet Rise Art Center family concerts, when world class musicians take children under wing to teach instrument basics and encourage curious kids to study music. New York cellist Myron Lutzke, shows young students how to properly hold the bow at an "Instrument Petting Zoo."  We took my great-niece, Elliana Broscious, and her brother Connor to a recent concert at this inspiring multi-million-dollar venue near Fishtail, Montana. In blending art and music with nature, Tippet Rise is gaining an international reputation for originality, excellence, beauty and daring. Elliana, 8, hadn't decided on her instrument of choice yet.  Her older brother, Connor, 13, is studying both piano and trumpet. So on a lovely sunlit Sunday, we strolled from the Center's cafe to the Tiara acoustic shell to see if Elliana might choose her instrument at the "instrument petting zoo." Enter, the cello! Stewart Rose of New York City Opera Orchestra and St. Luke's Chamber Ensemble, both in New York, took time to encourage youngsters. THE FREE FAMILY  concerts are designed to showcase Tippet Rise guest artists in an informal venue. Musicians work with children,  sharing their love of their instruments, telling anecdotes, performing short pieces to hold the attention of young, fertile, fast-moving minds. ELLIANA FIRST  spent a half hour with amiable cellist Myron Lutzke, who joined other players from New York's renowned St. Luke's Chamber Ensemble.    Pianist Pedja Muzijevic, violinist Krista Bennion Feeny, French hornist Stewart Rose and cellist Myron Lutzke share stories and music tips for families Lutzke, a soft-spoken middle-aged man who adores his 18th Century instrument, showed Elli and other aspiring musicians how to hold their pint-size cellos.  Gently, he  instructed them on positioning their hands on bow and strings. "Not too far up," he urged.  "Keep the bow near the bridge for the best sound -- to avoid a scratchy tone."  As he worked with the children, they listened and improved, learning how to make sounds more vibrant, stationing the bow near the bridge, moving the bow "down" and "up." "Look how quickly Elliana is picking it up," beamed Lutzke. "She has potential." When told the day could be life-altering for her, he smiled, "That's the goal." Elliana's mother, Aurora Pierson-Cosgriffe, said the experience "ignited a joy in Elliana for the cello. I see an eagerness to learn. It fueled her passion for music." Professional players instructed youngsters on proper positioning of hands, and how to hold the bow. MEANWHILE , Pedja Muzijevic, pianist with St. Luke's, encouraged children to try their luck on the keyboard, while violinist Krista Bennion Feeney played a playful "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star" to enraptured ears, and Stewart Rose instructed youngsters on holding the French horn in place, pursing the lips and making a sound. He later played cuttings from famous movie themes -- "Star Wars" and "Indiana Jones" -- to illustrate  how music delights us and permeates our lives. AFTER THE "Zoo" closed, acclaimed pianist Muzijevic and colleagues kept the action lively, performing excerpts from Bach, Scarlatti and Brahms. The sold-out concert included a nod to  movies, when Feeney played "Somewhere Over the Rainbow," by Harold Arlen and Yip Harburg, Vintage photo of the writer (Christene "Cookie" Meyers) playing saxophone, age 9, framed by her beloved piano. beloved song from "The Wizard of Oz."  My own musical exposure began as a 15-month old when I was assisted up onto a piano seat to plunk a tune. Music surrounded me. Both my classically trained mother and her mother played beautiful piano. Daddy played trumpet, and piano on black keys by ear, like Irving Berlin. While I learned classical music, my exposure included other genres: ragtime, jazz, show tunes, folk and gospel. I segued from piano to organ, saxophone, clarinet, flute, guitar and violin. My sister Peny, played several instruments, too, including piano, viola and trombone. Other siblings studied; ours was a house of music.  THE MUSICAL PETTING Zoo at Tippet Rise is part of an extraordinary artistic endeavor on a working ranch near Fishtail, in Stillwater County. Tippet Rise Art Center is in its third season of concerts by world-renowned musicians. Tours of its sculptures are available. The center is open through Sept. 8, on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Tickets are available for the next family concert, Aug. 15. Reservations are required to visit. More at  www.tippetrise.org Friday jazz at the Handlery's 950 Lounge is always a packed house.   UP NEXT:   On another musical note, the Handlery Hotel in San Diego is home to a wonderful tradition:  Friday night jazz. We take you inside this family run hotel, which offers delightful free Friday concerts with some of Southern California's finest jazz musicians.  Comfy seats, intimate concert space and great prices on happy hour drinks and appetizers await.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend, a novel look at travel, art, adventure, nature and family.

Internationally known sculptor Mark Di Suvero 's brightly colored "Proverb" has a pendulum element that moves. Happy after a recent concert, Bruce Keller, photographer, and Christene "Cookie" Meyers stop near dusk at Tippet Rise.  An Alexander Calder sculpture is in the far background, to welcome guests and salute the arts. MILLION-DOLLAR ART IN RURAL MONTANA CONCERT VENUE ATTRACTS GLOBAL ADMIRERS, ART AFICIONADOS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The art tour limo loads up in one of the Tippet Rise parking lots. Small groups in a comfy Mercedes van enjoy the tour.   THE APPROACH  to Tippet Rise Art Center is through Montana's heartland. This is cattle and sheep country. Both of those safely graze in a landscape marked by harsh winters and blazing summers. A working ranch as well as internationally known arts venue, the land is tended as it has been for generations by people who know nature's wonders and cope with its sometimes  unforgiving twists. DEER DART  across the fields in search of summer grass to browse, and the bird life is extraordinary. Songs of sandhill cranes echo in the valleys while  hawks, eagles and dozens of smaller birds vie for attention.  Their music is a fitting prelude to extraordinary concerts held summer weekends in a small, European inspired concert hall, the multi-million dollar "Barn." There's an outdoor performance venue, too. Yet the music is not the only attraction on the varied bill. "Inverted Portal" by Ensamble Studio serves as shelter, sculpture and landscape. Each piece weighs over 200 tons and the largest cranes in Montana were needed to hold the two sides in place for fastening.  As one wends her way up the road from Fishtail, Montana, the terrain gives way to a surprise: could it be a sculpture by Alexander Calder? Indeed it is -- on loan from the Smithsonian's Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden in Washington D.C. The monumental piece greets visitors, one of two Calder works loaned to the Montana venue. The other is a lyrical mobile which hangs above the concert area in the Olivier Music Hall. Christene "Cookie" Meyers, thrilled to stand beneath a geologically inspired piece of 400-ton art. Tippet Rise offers tours of the large art pieces on their 11,000 acre enterprise.  Each is placed to harmonize with landscape. Alexander Calder's "Two Discs" greets Tippet Rise guests, the first art they see, as it was for years at the Hirshhorn. IT IS FITTING  that contemporary masterpieces greet visitors headed for a concert.  The land was once home to impressionist artist Isabelle Johnson who like the center's creators, lived in many worlds, traveling to Paris, returning to her roots. Connecting art, music and landscape is the goal of Tippet Rise founders,  philanthropists Peter and Cathy Halstead.  They have accomplished this with imagination, flair and artistic sensibility. "We wanted sculptures that fit the land, to annotate the music, connect with the sky, illustrate the sense of working with the land," says Peter Halstead, a musician, poet and collector of 17 of the world's finest pianos, many housed in state-of-the-art facilities at Tippet Rise. Cathy Halstead, an accomplished artist, contributed her own flair and contacts with the art world to complement her husband's talents in their remarkable achievement. Stephen Talasnik's "Satellite No. 5: Pioneer" incorporates the need to explore space, and the crucial component of connecting to land and roots. TIPPET RISE  embodies a medley of the couple's affections -- love of landscape, travel and classic music, with a significant nod to contemporary art. In fact, the couple considers their unique arts and music venue  a metaphor, "where the synergy among music, landscape, sky and art makes....a kind of poetry," says Peter. A TOUR IS recommended. Knowledgeable guides enhance the two-hour venture, which stops at a half-dozen pieces of art, with short hikes to get closer and take photographs. We toured in a comfy Mercedes van, with two other couples.  Advance reservations are necessary, and you'll want to arrive in plenty of time to get your tokens and head for the parking lot to meet your group and guide. There are also tours to focus on the center's extraordinary geological history and wonders.   tippetrise.org Happy Cookie in center with nieces, nephews, siblings, friends, relatives and loved ones from all over the U.S., to celebrate. UP NEXT:   Celebrate family with us, when we present a short essay -- long on photos -- on the value of family and the bonds of clan and friendship. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a new post.

The view from a high room at Harvey's Lake Tahoe is stunning.  Snow remains on the mountain tops most of the year, and that will increase with ski season around the corner. Across the street is Harrah's, for variety in your gambling fix. While Harvey's and Harrah's offer delightful entertainment, gambling and dining, it's fun to take a breather from the casinos and enjoy the scenery. The calming waters nearby offer pleasant recreational time and soothing sounds and sights when you need a break. LAKESIDE BEAUTY, COUNTRY CHARM, PRETTY DIGS, DINING,  GAMBLING -- HARVEY'S LAKE TAHOE HAS IT ALL! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PICTURE YOURSELF  enjoying a morning cuppa or evening cocktail with Lake Tahoe glistening before you.  You won't find a better view than from a high room at Harvey's. So let the revels begin. We booked a room last visit for a three-day adventure, knowing that Harvey's and Harrah's are "Tahoe sisters." It's easy to hop from one to the other for an appealing variety of restaurants and to vary your gambling.  We like the Harvey's rooms because they are quiet and welcoming. WE ALSO LIKE HARVEY'S for its beautiful views, particularly on the higher floors.  And because it has a unique history. The Wagon Wheel Saloon grew from modest beginnings to Harvey's Lake Tahoe. Harvey's goes back to World War II days when an ambitious Sacramento meat wholesaler and his wife opened a six-slot machine club and bar, the Wagon Wheel Saloon.  In 1944, it offered people weary of war a place to unwind. Harvey Gross and his wife Llewellyn loved to get away from the city and relax in the woodsy Tahoe environs, just as folks do today. The couple developed the hotel to attract visitors from across the country, toughing out the winters, shoveling the roads themselves to clear them after storms. Snow adds to the luster at Tahoe. And it doesn't impede travel. THEIR GUTS, PLUCK and success allowed them to expand so they opened the area's first high rise tower in 1963, an 11-story, 197-room hotel in Nevada just across the state line from Lake Tahoe, California. The hotels and casinos  If you venture outside the hotels and restaurants, you'll enjoy some lovely hiking  The M.S. Dixie II is a pleasant diversion and another entertainment option if you're based at Harvey's or Harrah's. (technically in Stateline, Nevada) offer live entertainment and a mix of dining options. Heavenly Ski Resort is a close 10-minute drive away. With winter approaching, people are planning ski-casino get-aways. It's always pretty at Tahoe.  We've hiked the area as late as March. Snow doesn't slow the action or stop the fun. HARVEY'S LAKE TAHOE  features a 51,700 foot casino with non-stop gaming.  Families like it because the outdoor pool is perfect for kids and adults can enjoy gorgeous views of the Sierra Mountains from the hot tub. Guests can sample entertainment in the Cabo Wabo Cantina and The Improv at Harvey's Cabaret. For dining, we tried the steakhouse one evening -- terrific ribeye -- and tasty Mexican fare another day. With ski season around the corner, it's time to book a ski-casino vacation.  South Lake Tahoe beckons. If you fancy a dinner cruise, the M.S. Dixie II offers visual and culinary pleasures. It's a pleasant drive Harvey's, winding through the town, then over to the lake to Zephyr Cover and the boat. The food and atmosphere are casual and we danced to a fun three-piece band. The award-winning Lake Tahoe cruiser is the largest cruising vessel in South Lake Tahoe and a local favorite. All her cruises depart from Zephyr Cove Resort and Marina, including daytime cruises and charters for up to 300. It's fun to traverse the lake on a paddlewheel and the ambiance is friendly.  www.caesars.com/harveys-tahoe A gifted ensemble of actors breathes fresh, fun air into  Noel Coward's classic "Blilthe Spirit" at Northcoast Rep. UP NEXT:  The present bounty of theatrical gems in southern California brings us to our annual "fall harvest" theater piece.  Here we preview and give mini-reviews of highlights of the enticing autumn theater season in the San Diego area. The region's temperate climate and rich artistic reserves bring talent from across the country. We'll share the bounty -- from cutting edge drama in a brilliantly conceived contemporary take on "Richard III" at La Jolla Playhouse, to a polished production of Noel Coward's witty "Blithe Spirit" at Northcoast Repertory Theater, and a touching Tony winning musical, "Fun Home" downtown at San Diego Rep. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at art, travel, nature, music and travel.

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers atop the Space Needle in Seattle, planning their time there and another few tickets in the drawer.  On the road for several months a year, they plan ahead and map out details to maximize time. TAKING A FEW PRECAUTIONARY STEPS CAN EASE THE MIND, MAKE THE MOST OF PRECIOUS TIME AWAY "Layering up" is good advice for travel almost anywhere in the world, here in mid-autumn in a tiny village in Provence. (Cool morning, sun at midday.) STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER If you plan a little in advance, and take time to book a few dinners, side trips and tours, you'll save precious time. WE TRAVEL A LOT . And we have a division of labor, as most  couples do. He's in charge of electronics. I pack the reservations and confirmations, itinerary and contact numbers. If you're going abroad, decide where the passports and other critical documents will reside. Make sure you both know the location. Copy passports and important contact information in an additional place. Give a neighbor or family member your itinerary and contact information. THERE ARE  many styles, many methods of packing. Invent your own, remembering that it's important to be able to carry all your own stuff. You can't always find help at the train station, car rental, or getting out of the airport. These tips will ease travel stress, whether you're a single traveler, couple or group. First, the carry-on.  Even on a road trip, have a little easy-to-carry bag with things you can't do without. This includes electronics (don't forget the charger for your phone) and medications.  I include a two-day sampling of my daily vitamins, just in case of unexpected delays. Each of us packs a toothbrush, clean shirt or top, underwear. I also carry eye drops and hand lotion (under three ounces) in carry-on, for long dehydrating flights. An empty water bottle is handy, too. Keller's luggage (and Cookie's) are easy to spot. YEARS AGO, I  was traveling in Asia with an older attorney friend as part of an American delegation of professional women. Virginia had bee traveling for years and had a rule of one large check-through bag and a loosely packed carry-on.  I follow Virginia's example, and it lightens the physical and mental load. She also tossed out pamphlets and brochures along the way, cleverly avoiding exceeding her baggage weight limit with redundant paper. WHEN WE  travel with the Yorkies, Nick and Nora are my carry-on, so I've learned to economize on "stuff." Keller and I also put some of each of our items in both check-through bags.  That way, if one is lost for a couple days, we still have enough to get by in the shared bag. As for clothes, the point is to take things that make you comfortable, that allow you to have fun, relax and feel properly turned out -- whether for fancy or casual time. Take time to "smell the roses" and savor each moment, here on sunny Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. For a cruise, I pack a nice formal top but I no longer haul long formal gowns and sequined shoes, and Keller doesn't take tuxedo gear anymore. (Those formal guy tux shoes and glittery girl heels are space hogs, and the black-tie gear gets worn only once or twice.  Most cruise lines now don't insist on a tux; a sport coat or dinner jacket is sufficient. Nice dressy slacks or skirt and a cocktail top are fine for women.) Deciding on your attire really depends on what you do when you're there. Develop a theme before you go.  Are you "outdoorsy, active, casual" or "formal, fancy, elaborate" -- or like me, somewhere in between. This little categorization will help you craft a wardrobe that won't waste suitcase space. For example: If you're hiking in Scotland, Spain or Cruising can be fun and dressy, without depleting the suitcase space. Here, Cookie, far right, enjoys a European cruise with niece Amarylla, mother Ellen Cosgriffe and sister Robbie Cosgriffe Townsley. Switzerland, or sunning in the Caribbean or Greek Isles, you'll need little more than casual -- cottons, denims, wash-and-wear. Throw in a pretty top and shawl for dinners out. The "layer up" edict is time honored. Start a cruise or tour morning with slacks, shirt, sweater and light jacket tossed over your arm. Strip away the lawyers as the sun warms the Earth. Friends of ours also take their oldest underwear abroad and toss them as the trip winds down. Keep some money in your bra or money belt -- as Cookie did in Vietnam. You may still have to fumble a little (I always do) but it is handy. CHECKING IN  to the hotel: We immediately put the phone number and address in our phones.  You may also ask to see the room before you finalize check-in, particularly if you have paid hundreds of dollars. Find out about public transportation at the concierge desk.  Ask prices so you're not surprised when you purchase tickets. Make sure you get the wifi password before you head to your room, and be wary of using free wifi at public places.  Have the porter bring ice -- or if no ice machines, ask him to order it from room service. (Much faster than ordering it yourself.) Before you relax in your hotel room, a few quick things will make your stay more pleasant. Here, Pan Pacific Seattle. Make a little check-list tailored to your own trip. Notify credit cards before you go of your plans, so they don't deny a charge that looks suspicious. Use your room safe for your passport, if the front desk hasn't taken it at registration. Carry a copy when you leave the hotel. Put some cash in your bra or money belt. We also divide credit cards and cash so someone always has some.  Put some cash and a credit card in the hotel safe or a secret stash in case your purse or wallet is stolen or lost. ABOVE ALL , if you've thought of treating a relative to a vacation, do it now. Carpe diem. You'll never be sorry. Christene "Cookie" Meyers stands under The Inverted Portal, one of three sculptures at Tippet Rise created by internationally known Ensamble Studios. UP NEXT:  A world class art and music venue exists in rural south-Central Montana.  If you have not heard of Tippet Rise Art Center, prepare yourself for a treat. Set on a working ranch near Fishtail, the remarkable center is home to the artwork of Alexander Calder, Patric Dougherty, Mark di Suvero, Stephen Talasnik and others rings wondrous man-made sculpture to the landscape's own incredile art. Find our how to take a Tippet Rise art tour, remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us Fridays when we post each week, a fresh twist on the arts, travel, nature, family and more.

Michael Toia is the full time piano tuner at Montana's acclaimed Tippet Rise Art Center. He keeps the priceless piano collection in top form. Here he tunes the writer's uprighton a rare day off. Veteran fisherman Toia combined tuning with a fishing trip!   HAWAII'S 'PIANO MAN' SPENDS SUMMERS TUNING MONTANA MUSIC VENUE'S RARE COLLECTION Eyes and ears alert, Toia prepares a piano for a Tippet Rise concert. He is a virtuoso tuner.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER EACH MORNING, when Michael Toia wakes up, he pinches himself. "I feel so fortunate to be in this beautiful place, doing something I love," says the gentle spoken piano tuner, avid fisherman and nature lover. Toia is in Montana this summer, as he has been for all three season at Tippet Rise Art Center near Fishtail.  He is charged with keeping the Center's priceless collection of Steinways in tune to be played to a privileged small audience each weekend by world class musicians. Master tuner, Michael Toia, is at work in the Tiara Acoustic Shell, an outdoor concert venue at Tippet Rise Art Center.  Each concert signals a tuning and Toia is an expert. For Toia, it's a dream come true. His two passions -- pianos and fishing -- are fulfilled each summer. Based at the acoustically praised art center --  acclaimed for its setting, repertoire and large sculpture -- Toia fell into "the perfect gig," as he calls it, by the proverbial "right place at the right time."  And location. Toia at work in the Olivier Music Barn at Tippet Rise. Pianos and fishing are his passions.  "I was asked by the Halsteads (center founders Peter and Cathy) to tune one of their pianos in Hawaii, where I live" says Toia.  "They asked if I'd be interested in coming to Montana. It worked out." THE BIG ISLAND  of Hawaii is Toia's home for nine months of the year, as he tunes pianos for a living, flying from one island to the other for jobs.  His largest client is the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints -- the Mormon Church -- whose history in the islands dates back to 1850.  Their Polynesian Cultural Center is one of many Mormon owned and operated venues. Toia tunes all their pianos and takes on the occasional additional client. Michael Toia casts off on the West Fork of the Stillwater River.  He is an excellent avid fisherman, too. Both fishing and his piano tuning draw on his perfectionism. His wife Anne Toia, is a successful massage therapist and their son, Mika'ele, is a proud second-generation piano tuner based in Minneapolis.  Occasionally, father and son collaborate on a tuning project, as recently when the elder Toia and Anne flew to Minneapolis where the Minnesota Orchestra is one of Michael's clients. The couple raised their son and daughter on the big island, where Mount Kilauea's damage is testing their fortitude.  Smoke and fall-out from the volcano, and nearby destruction of homes and hotels, has the couple re-evaluating their future -in their beloved Hawaii. For now, they're waiting Kilauea out. With the deftness of a surgeon, Toia repairs and replaces the felt on a pad of the writer's piano. ONE THING is sure, though.  As long as Toia is asked back to Montana, he will continue tuning the Tippet Rise pianos. Whenever he has a free day -- which is rare -- he is off fishing south-central Montana's prime rivers and streams. Fish, tour or tune, pianos are part of his world all 12 months of the year. When he returns each season to Tippet Rise, he has the world's finest pianos literally at his practiced fingertips. "Because Steinway grand pianos are crafted by hand, it can take a year -- hours and hours of fine-tuned labor -- to make one," he says. "Tuning an instrument of that precision and quality is equally demanding."  That painstaking, several-hour process pays homage to the craftspeople who came before. Toia says Tippet Rise is a treasure trove of Steinways: a dozen of them, each extraordinary, "each with its own nuances and attributes." (For more information on the stable of Tippet Rise pianos, check out the essays written by TR co-founder, Peter Halstead.) WE HAD THE  good fortune to spend a half-day at our home with Toia, who offered to tune our vintage Boston-made McPhail.  Watching him is to watch a master at work.  With the skill of a surgeon, he tunes, listens, repairs.  He apprenticed this column's photographer, contracting engineer Bruce Keller, to assist -- providing additional tools from his elaborate workshop. Piano tuner Michael Toia in inspiring to watch at work. Our McPhail may not have as many parts as the 12,000 Steinway has.  But Toia pronounced it "a jewel" and urged us to hang on to it. (It is one of seven pianos in my collection, modest compared to the grand assemblage at Tippet Rise, which includes an instrument once owned by acclaimed classical pianist Vladimir Horowitz. Toia, who plays piano himself, but rarely for an audience, says he is inspired by the unique blending of nature, music and art at Tippet Rise. Waking up in a cabin designed for him by the Halsteads, surrounded by the world's finest pianos -- and abundant trout streams --  is, Toia says, "about the best gig a guy could have." Pianos, he added, are something like people in their complexity -- "each one is different.  Peter says each piano has its own DNA. He's right." Toia doesn't usually tune pianos outside Tippet Rise in Montana, but should you need a tune-up in Hawaii, look for Michael Toia Piano Service. More on the Tippet Rise pianos at: tippetrise.org/stories/the-pianos-of-tippet-rise Harvey's in Lake Tahoe offers elegant furnishings, proximity to gambling and fine dining, and spectacular scenery right  out the window. More on it and Lake Tahoe next week. UP NEXT : Take a scenic weekend ride with us to Harvey's, a lovely property on beautiful Lake Tahoe, where the scenery is exquisite all year -- summer to autumn, winter to spring.  Now's the transition time from warm-weather sports to skiing and snowboarding, with the first snows possible in September -- any time after Labor Day, the old timers say.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and wake up with a view out the window and a song in your heart. Please share the link, and we welcome suggestions and comments: www.whereiscookie.com

CITY'S FRIENDLY WATER TAXI SERVICE IS TOPS FOR SIGHT SEEING, LEARNING, ENJOYING THE CANALS Fort Lauderdale's mansions along the canals are legendary. Many are owned by stars, athletes, "old money" Floridians. Fort Lauderdale's delightful Water Taxi offering boasts a unique mode of easy, relaxing transportation. Guests at the lovely Hilton Marina and Convention Center find easy water taxi access. The company's stable of knowledgeable guides and drivers enhances the journey with humor and fun stories. Travel by water taxi is fun, reasonably priced and a lovely way to tour the town. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU  love star gossip and wouldn't shy from a glimpse of the rich and famous, Fort Lauderdale's your place. For transportation, try the city's unique Water Taxi service, and for location, you can't do better than the lovely Hilton Fort Lauderdale Marina Hotel. NFL stars, singers, musicians, actors, writers and, yes, porn stars invest in Fort Lauderdale. TO YOUR LEFT  ladies and gentlemen, that's where Sonny and Cher lived for years. Stunning view from the Hilton Fort Lauderdale Marina Hotel. Water Taxi service is nearby. Down the way, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz loved their little white home on the corner. Andy Griffith lived nearby. The Water Taxi transportation in Fort Lauderdale  is one of the delights of  a visit to this delightful port city in Florida. He loved to come out in his own boat. ("Little" in lush and lovely Fort Lauderdale may mean 5,000 square feet, so keep that in mind.) Over there -- that's the palatial estate where many "Magnum P.I." episodes were shot. There's the home of an oil sheik from Saudi Arabia.  He bought his daughter a little place down the canal for a wedding gift last fall. WE'VE BEEN  to Fort Lauderdale many times, always on the prowl for new adventures. Our favorite base is the Hilton Fort Lauderdale Marina Resort, conveniently located near a water taxi pick-up. The "hop on, hop off" attraction of the water taxis in Fort Lauderdale allows tourists to explore various areas for shopping, beaches, dining, theater or a museum.   The town has exciting nightlife, beautiful waterfront dining, and gorgeous shops on fashionable Las Olas Boulevard, the Rodeo Drive of southern Florida. But the town's Intracoastal Waterway system makes its canals a uniquely beautiful way to play tourist. You'll learn the city's history from the draw bridges of the historic Esplanade area, to the "spring break" beaches, resort areas, and stately old homes. Fort Lauderdale offers gardens, parks and marine life. The water taxis can take you there. Keller and Cookie enjoy the Water Taxi each time they return to Fort Lauderdale.  It's unique to the city, a delightful waterway trolley. WHETHER YOU  want history, scenery, eateries or a blend, Fort Lauderdale's Water Taxi service  delivers.  Its main route travels in two directions. Figure out what you want to see, and find your closest stop. We use the water taxis every year to get to favorite restaurants, museums and to just enjoy the journey. If you time it right, you can get a photo of the beautiful coral hued draw bridge. THE FORT  Lauderdale Water Taxi runs year-round, closing only Christmas Day. watertaxi.com hilton.com/Official_Site/Fort_Lauderdale‎ Fort Lauderdale's water life is at the heart of the city.   THE WATER  taxis glide by the town's exciting nightlife, outdoor eateries, the famous shops of Las Olas Boulevard, beautiful beaches, yacht clubs and majestic cruise ships traveling in and out of Port Everglades. Nothing worldwide compares to Fort Lauderdale's Intracoastal Waterway. Its lovely canals are so unique and beautiful, they've earned Fort Lauderdale the moniker “Venice of America.” Water Taxi is the best way to see them! watertaxi.com Chokecherries look appealing -- and are, to the bears, who gorge on them before their long winter's nap. Our friend Corby makes delicious syrup, too. UP NEXT:  Autumn comes to the world -- at least those of us north of the equator. Many people, including the two of us -- writer and photographer -- think autumn is one of the prettiest times to be in Montana or elsewhere. The chokecherries are plump and inviting to birds and bears, the leaves are getting that golden glow and the air is crisp -- cool mornings and evenings, with sunshine in the afternoon.  We take you there, remembering to explore, learn and live.  Catch us Fridays when we post for each new week -- a novel twist on travel, nature, the arts and family.

JESUS SORIANO IS THE REAL DEAL, OFFERING SPANISH CLASSICAL GUITAR AT ITS FINEST Jesus Soriano performs regularly at a popular tapas bistro in San Diego. Longtime friend and fellow guitarist Fred Fisher designed this colorful poster. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HE STARTED  performing when he was 15 years old, in his native Spain.  Many years  later, Jesus Soriano is entertaining appreciative audiences in southern California with elegant classical guitar techniques inspired by his affection for the Catalan tradition. "I received my first guitar for Christmas," says the soft-spoken Soriano. "Two years later, I was on stage."  Born and raised in Madrid, Soriano played in several rock bands as a teen-ager, and moonlighted as a folk musician in several “Tunas and Estudiantinas,” wearing traditional costumes and singing serenades. HE FOUND  flamenco appealing and crowd pleasing, for its spirited, rhythmical style. He was being paid by age 17 for sharing his talents. "But besides flamenco, I pay special attention to old, traditional songs from different regions of Spain," says Soriano. Soriano, far left, offers friends a beautiful paella on special occasions, here served for a reunion among old pals, with salad, wine and bread. He identifies with music and lyrics with strong social content, music born in Spain's streets and legendary tapas bars.  So how did a devoted Spaniard end up in San Diego? "It was to be a short visit to get acquainted with my first wife's culture." Back in 1969, he met Melody, a UCLA foreign student. The two married in 1973. "I couldn't argue with her contention that it was time for me to learn her culture," he smiles, "since she had spent four years immersed in Spanish culture.  We came to San Diego for 'a couple of years' and it's now 45 years later." Soriano is still learning the culture that has been his for a near half-century.   AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN  music both left their mark on his soul. "I love Leonard Cohen, Two old friends Bruce Keller, left, and Soriano, recreate their musical pose of  1975, at Costa Brava. Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens and Peter, Paul and Mary, but I don’t sing those in public," he says. Soriano, right, and friend Bruce Keller, in 1975, photographed by mutual friend Carlos Montero. His Spanish influences include well known and legendary singers, songwriters and performers. Patxi Andion, Paco Ibanez, Joaquin Sabina, Los Chichos and Los Chunguito. But friends also know Soriano for two other less obvious talents: motorcycling and cooking. A paella collaboration by accomplished amateur chef Jesus Soriano and his longtime friend Carlos Montero. This writer can attest that Soriano's paella parties are legendary, and he gets to his San Diego gigs aboard a motorcycle, which he rides at least twice a week from his hilltop home in Julian. HIS SAN DIEGO  gigs began in 1973, at places some of which are gone: El Cafe del Rey Moro, Espana, Al-Salam, La Gran Tapa, La Tavola and El Circo Barcelona. He spent many years at Cafe Sevilla, and has been at Costa Brava in Pacific Beach since it opened in 2003. Enjoy him on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 7-9 p.m. The motorcycle passion involves logging a half-million miles.   His current ride is a 2004 Honda ST1300 with 167,000 miles.     Soriano's three sons are Alonso and Marcos, who live in northern California with Melody, and Anthony, who lives with Soriano in Julian. If you're planning a paella party, consider Soriano and his apropos music. https://your-paella-party.herokuapp.com/ And a trip to Costa Brava any night is a good idea, but on Tuesdays and Thursdays, you'll have the bonus of Soriano's beautiful music. https://www.costabravasd.com/ New Orleans is celebrating its 300th birthday! UP NEXT : While we're in a celebratory mood, consider that New Orleans turns 300 this year.  The city is celebrating through year's end with special concerts, parties, and tributes to the people who have made the city great, including musicians, statesmen and world renowned chefs. Remember to explore, learn, live and catch us Fridays for a new twist on travel, family, art, music and changing culture.

The Dukes of Dixieland have been around New Orleans for decades. They specialize in traditional New Orleans jazz. THE BIG EASY SURVIVES DIFFICULT TIMES, CELEBRATES LIFE WITH GUSTO Street music is a New Orleans tradition. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE 'BIG EASY' is  big fun. It's not hard to "laissez le bon temps rouler." The city is celebrating its tricentennial this year, with all the jazz and pizzazz one expects from one of the country's most colorful towns. Celebrations began on New Years Eve, honoring the diversity, energy, come-back energy and artistic accomplishments. Iconic buildings and tour buses abound. Above is the famous Gallier Hall. Celebrities, including native son Harry Connick Jr., have been in on the festivities.  He is one of many famous New Orleanians.  Satchmo leads the list -- aka the endearing trumpeter and singer Louis Armstrong. The talented Marsalis family is rooted here. Dance and music come alive daily. Beignets and coffee at Cafe du Monde are a tradition. Talk show host Ellen DeGeneres was born here, along with band leader Pete Fountain.  Voodoo queen Marie Laveau worked the streets and shops of New Orleans. The city also gave birth to perhaps the world's most famous madam, Fried shrimp -- and sometimes fried oysters -- make up the city's famous "po boy" sandwich. Harrah's in downtown New Orleans celebrates the city's music and art. Below, a paddlewheel plies the river. Norma Wallace, whose pleasure palaces were legendary. Fun city for foodies GOTHIC NOVELIST Anne Rice was born here, as was writer Truman Capote. Award-winning radio host Cokie Roberts is a native daughter. The city's founder was a Frenchman named Jean-Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville.  He liked the lay of the land at the mouth of the Mississippi River and named city center Place d'Armes.  Colonists flocked in to what soon would become the French Quarter.  New Orleans boasts a memorial to the Holocaust. The city  has a large, proud and philanthropic Jewish community.    Step aboard a steamboat The French ruled until 1763 when the Spanish took over.  It reverted to French control in 1803 then was sold to the U.S. in the Louisiana Purchase. NEW ORLEANS  folks are fun-loving, but they are also resilient.  Hurricane Katrina's devastation can still be seen, but the townsfolk came together to rebuild, after the 2005 disaster and levee failure. New Orleans has kept its famous streetcars. Truman Capote's most famous play is his work "A Streetcar Named Desire." Plan to spend at least four or five days to take a plantation tour, enjoy the garden district, live jazz, zoo or aquarium, and soak up the French and Spanish architecture that mark the city. Gallier Hall has had a major post-hurricane facelift, the Louis Armstrong Airport is expanded and Bourbon Street has been spruced up. Take a plantation tour EATING IS  an art in New Orleans, which many consider one of the world's best dining towns.  Visitors won't be disappointed, whether first-time guests or regulars, as we're proud to be. Rich, diverse, enduring -- we consider it one of the most interesting and entertaining cities we've visited. www.nola.gov/visitors/ Jazzercise takes to the USS Midway deck Saturday, Oct. 20, in a fundraiser for cancer research. Fun for a good cause. UP NEXT:   Jazz it up on the Midway Oct. 20 with Jazzercise Dance for Life! Thousands of dancers will take over the deck of the USS. Midway in San Diego for an 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. workout to benefit breast cancer research and the struggle for a cure. Instructors from around the world will participate.

Saturday's USS Midway aircraft carrier will host one of the state's largest Jazzercise gatherings, benefiting cancer research. THOUSANDS OF DANCERS RAISE FUNDS FOR CANCER CURE SATURDAY ON USS MIDWAY DECK   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Jazzercise founder Judi Sheppard Missett and the writer, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, at an earlier Midway fundraiser. Jazzercise teachers and students will  put their hearts and money into an   energetic fundraiser Saturday on Midway.  Thousands gather each year on the Midway deck to transform the aircraft carrier into a dance stage.  Here, dancers jazz to rhythmic pop tunes.  EVEN FOR  veteran Jazzercise dancers like myself, dancing with a cast of thousands is a thrill. This Saturday, Oct. 20, thousands will convene to dance their hearts and feet off to benefit cancer research. The venue is the vast deck of the USS Midway in downtown San Diego, Calif. To know that this fun fitness morning is also a benefit for breast cancer research makes the dancing all the more pleasurable.   Jazzercise instructors will gather from Southern California and across the U.S., to "Dance for Life," fighting breast cancer and seeking a cure aboard the venerable Midway. The time Saturday is 8 a.m. until 10 a.m. Cost is $45 and includes a collector's item Jazzercise t-shirt.  MORE THAN  1,000 Jazzercise instructors, dancers, family and friends have already booked it, including cancer survivors and others whose lives have been affected by breast cancer.  The benefit will top a half-million dollars given to the Susan G. Komen research since the project's beginnings. The writer, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, right, and Sharon Ticho of  Jazzercise Carmel Valley In the last five years, co-chairs Pacific Beach/La Jolla Jazzercise owner Andrea Singer and El Cajon Jazzercise owner Susan Shofner with support from many southern California Jazzercise locations have raised more than $495,000 with the Dance for Life event, part of the Susan G. Komen 3-Day, 60 mile walk for breast cancer research. Jazz it up on the road Besides the epic group workout led by Jazzercise instructors, breast cancer survivors will be honored as they dance together during the “Survivor Song.” Founder Judi Sheppard Missett created Jazzercise in Chicago nearly a half-century ago, in 1969 as a student at Northwestern University. She was teaching at a dance studio and noticed her classes had high dropout rates. Her "Jazzercise" concept arose, as a way to make dance more fun while enhancing the dancers' strength and fitness. Jazzing it up for a cause I  BECAME  a Jazzercise devotee 10 years later, when I interviewed Missett for an airline magazine article. Judi S. Missett, right, and her daughter, Jazzercise CEO, Shanna Missett Nelson. To my delight, Judi remembered that long-ago story when we met at the Midway two years ago. I told her how much Jazzercise means to me, how I find it wherever I go.  "That makes my day. Good for you," said Judi. The three-day Komen walk for the cure includes Saturday's Midway dance. As a travel writer, I venture out in the world for more than four months a year.  Jazzercise membership allows dancers to show their  EFT (auto-pay) cards and dance anywhere in the world where Jazzercise exists.  I've danced in a dozen U.S. states, and in several foreign countries, including Japan, where there are thousands of enthusiastic devotees.  Jazzercise has 8,300 franchises globally. I go on line to connect and participate regularly in San Diego, and often in Montana, Oregon, New York and Georgia, where I spend time each year. I've made many friends, including a sprightly 95-year old Jazzerciser, Betty Lowe (click the link below.) Betty Lowe is well past 95 years old, and attributes her fitness in part to her years with Jazzercise. Dancing into her 90s! Each dance-based group fitness session is 60 minutes featuring a fusion of jazz dance, resistance training, pilates, yoga, kickboxing and latin-style movements set to popular music. I frequent two venues in San Diego, and when I can, venues in Billings, Montana, Atlanta, Bronxville, N.Y., Portland and Medford, Oregon, and San Francisco, all regular haunts. My weekdays Carmel Valley Jazzercise venue is with franchise owner Sharon Ticho, one of a half-dozen varied and energetic coaches, all of whom enrich my life. We dance with lively women of all ages and many backgrounds.  My lively Saturday Jazzercise is with Rick Nesbitt at the American Federation of Musicians Union on Morena Avenue. Both of my fine coaches will lead dancers on the Midway stage. DESCRIBED as "a huge group dance party,'' Saturday's event receives national coverage as the deck of the aircraft carrier is transformed to a gigantic stage. To get in on the fun and contribute to the cause, come to 910 N. Harbor Drive, San Diego. And consider Jazzercise to keep mentally and physically fit. It makes a beautiful day even better! www.jazzercise.com    Dining abroad can be a special pleasure, if you're daring and eat what and where the locals do.  Here, a shrimp-sausage dish. UP NEXT:   Feasting in Europe. Let's go!  No one dines better than when on vacation, and our many holidays in southern Europe have given us insight into great food, fine restaurants and best bets to order when in particular countries.  Join us on the trail to tasty dining far away from home. Our best advice is to find out where the locals eat and avoid the highest-priced eateries, which often disappoint.  We also look for venues with live local music.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a refreshing look at travel, the arts, food, family and nature.

Here in late November, Paris streets are not jam-packed as in the summer.  Here, the boulevard by Notre Dame Cathedral is sparsely occupied with plenty of breathing room. Farther south in Malaga, Lisbon and other cities in Spain, Portugal and France, weather is a bit warmer.   TAKE ADVANTAGE OF DISCOUNTED AIR, BARGAIN HOTELS, NO CROWDS, PLUS A FEEL FOR WHAT LOCALS DO STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Boulevards are less crowded off-season, as this pretty street in Toulon, France, attests.  Air is crisp, you can set your pace. Planning an off-season trip is a great idea and can be a time and money-saver. TUNE IN, TURN on to off-season travel. If you don't mind wearing a sweater and preparing for the occasional chill, you'll find better prices and far fewer tourists to contend with if you travel off season. Restaurants are less crowded, and your calamari arrives hot! The cache and glamour of famous cities is still there, but particularly in southern Europe, you'll still enjoy sun and pleasant temperatures. SOUTHERN EUROPE in particular has much to offer off-season-- and we're hitting some of our favorite spots off-season this year, including Malaga, Madrid, Rome, Venice and Barcelona. Now's the time we love southern Europe -- when the crowds are gone and the natives are reclaiming their sunny, leisurely autumn. In travel-industry jargon, the year is divided into three seasons: peak season (roughly mid-June through August), shoulder season (April through mid-June and September through October), and off-season (November through March). Cookie and Keller have made a 10-year tradition of late-autumn travel in Europe.  Tuscany off-season can be warm and lovely. Malaga is famously sunny off-season, too.  Much of Europe's southern cities have history dating before  1,000 BC when the Romans were exploring and building their famous aqueducts and theaters.  Archeological research reveals evidence of human life in the Neolithic and the Iron age.  So there's plenty to see -- and having the leisure and space that off-season provides is a bonus. We've also had wonderful trips to Iceland and Scandinavia in autumn -- with only a jacket necessary, not heavy boots and snow gear. Lisbon is sunny much of the year, here in early December with a rainbow.   Vineyards and meadows bask in sunshine, here October . Keller and Cookie have made a decade-long tradition of traveling to southern Europe in late autumn, here Tarragona. WE'VE SPENT time touring Cannes, perhaps the loveliest and most pricy city on the French Riviera. But we love southern Spain as much -- Malaga is a delight. Portugal is pretty off season.  It's friendly, less expensive and equally beautiful. Many cities offer hotels for as much as half-less than in high season. And you'll have better options for air and cruises. We always recommend a half-day city tour to orient yourself, and those are lovely in autumn and early spring, when the bus lines aren't long and the vehicles aren't jam-packed. No lines for souvenirs and artwork if you travel off season. This Roman theatre in southern Spain, near Barcelona, is open and uncrowded in November.  The lovely streets and winding alleys are all yours off season.  We visited a 12th Century village on our way to Figueres in Spain, to see the Dali Museum, and had it virtually to ourselves.  We thought the restaurant was closed -- but there was just no one there, so the proprietor greeted us warmly. YOU'LL STILL  find sandy beaches, upmarket boutiques and palatial hotels off season.  You'll also find quiet little B&Bs and flea markets where you can stretch your dollar. And there's nothing like visiting a Roman amphitheater with only a half-dozen others! More information: Each city has a tourist bureau. Google the city and "tourism" and you'll get a raft of references and websites. Dr. Catherine Frenette, left, chief hepatologist at Scripps Green Hospital, with her "poster boy" patient, Bruce Keller, looking at one of his scans. UP NEXT:  As Thanksgiving approaches, we celebrate 18 months post-transplant for Bruce William Keller. His remarkable recovery from a May 14, 2017,  liver transplant at Scripps Green Hospital in La Jolla, Calif., has set records at this internationally known medical center. The miracle has thrilled Cookie and cheered Keller's many other loved ones all over the world.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a novel look at travel, the arts, nature, family, fitness, fun.

Keller and Cookie 10 days post-transplant at SeaWorld's media day. New Yorker Dr. Jonathan Fisher was chief surgeon for the transplantation for Bruce Keller, right. The Columbia University trained physician said all went extraordinarily well.  Keller did not need the customary ventilator to leave OR for the ICU. GIVING THANKS FOR MODERN MEDICINE AND A NEW LEASE ON LIFE This daunting hike near Malaga was accomplished with joy by Keller & Cookie. Editor's Note: By request, as we mark the 18th month post-transplant, we offer an update on photographer Bruce Keller's remarkable recovery from liver transplantation in May of 2017. Scripps Green Hospital physicians, nurses and transplant team helped us through a trying time.  We are grateful and celebrate this Thanksgiving with new appreciation. Leaving Scripps a record three days after transplantation. Dr. Randolph Schaffer who assisted with the transplant conferred with Keller along with the other liver specialists. TWO YEARS AGO,  we were in Europe, moving up the transplant list for major surgery at Scripps Green Hospital in La Jolla, Calif. We knew it would be our last big international foray for a while. As we dealt Transplant's first few days with Keller's liver disease and need for transplantation, we continued our arts driven life on the road. The couple has made several international trips  since the transplant. Good news. PLAYS, CONCERTS,   sailing, museums, weekend trips and close-by "staycations" were a balm as we waited for a donor.  We couldn't be more than two hours from the hospital, in case we got "the call."  So this big trip to our beloved southern Spain was important. Torrey Pines Reserve near Scripps became a regular hiking ritual for the Yorkies and the recovering couple. IT WAS  a fabulous trip -- we have never had a bad one in our nearly 11 years together.  And less than five months after our return, we did get "the call." It was nearly 10 p.m. Friday, in Adjusting to transplant challenges May of 2017. (Lucky Friday the 13th, and we'd just enjoyed dinner and the beach on our Friday date night.)   Surgery was performed at 4 a.m. May 14 by a brilliant team led by highly regarded specialists in transplantation. The award-winning Scripps Green Hospital in La Jolla, Calif. DR. CHRISTOPHER MARSH  is head of the  a.m.  that next morning, he told me everything had gone smoothly. Nick and Nora and Montana are part of the healing process. THE GOOD  luck continued the next couple days.  Keller moved quickly from ICU to the regular wing of the hospital and on the third day, got his walking papers.  This shocked me because the literature had indicated nine or ten days in hospital would not be unusual.  Adjusting to transplant takes time  Keller was back in the water to pursue his beloved scuba diving. Five days would mean he was recovering with speed. A support group helped me through those first trying weeks and in less than two months we got the green light from our primary hepatologist to travel out-of-state. That late June trip included our niece's wedding on the Oregon coast and a dozen plays at Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Keller and his chief hepatologist, head of Scripps liver transplantation team, Dr. Catherine Frenette. We even stopped at a casino for a couple nights to give me a gambling fix. (Non-smoking room for Keller and a little blackjack.)      There are scans every three months, and the daily doses of anti-rejection drugs.  The blood work must happen every two weeks.  But we are able to travel, dance, sail, resume our life of theater, work and live music. THANKFULLY, we both have life, and we live it fully. Proud sentinel of the southern California coastline is the stately Torey pine. UP NEXT:   The revered Torrey pine, whose name comes from its botanical reference, is a stately but endangered part of the southern California coastline.  Find out about its history and precarious future, and how it has graced some of our favorite times during our treasured outings near San Diego. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays for a novel look at travel, the arts, nature, family, pets and general fun.