Kateri, a gorgeous golden eagle, was injured while feeding on a dead deer near Gilette, Wyo. She cannot fly. She was named by a young Cody girl. Kateri honors the patron saint of people who love nature and preserve the environment. ENRAPTURED BY RAPTORS AT THE BUFFALO BILL CENTER OF THE WEST IN CODY, WYOMING STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Editor's Note Originally published: June 2015 and last updated June 23, 2026, to reflect current travel information, attractions, schedules, pricing, lodging options, and visitor recommendations. Most travelers come to Cody because it is the eastern gateway to Yellowstone National Park. What many visitors don't realize is that one of the region's most impressive wildlife experiences is waiting right in town. Inside the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, the Draper Natural History Museum and the famous Raptor Experience offer an exciting journey into the wildlife, landscapes, and natural wonders of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Whether you're traveling with kids, photographing wildlife, or simply looking for an unforgettable educational adventure, this attraction deserves a place on your Cody itinerary. A red-tailed hawk, Isham, arrived at the raptor program from New Mexico. He was likely hit by a car when only a few years old. His eyes were damaged and he is a permanent resident at the world famous museum. Welcome to One of Cody's Hidden Gems Cody, Wyoming is home to Western history, rodeos and scenic drives. The Draper Natural History Museum provides something completely different. Instead of focusing on cowboys and frontier history, the museum celebrates the wild landscapes, animals, geology and ecosystems that make Yellowstone a remarkable place. Located inside the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, the museum immerses visitors in the natural world through interactive exhibits, dramatic displays, and hands-on experiences that appeal to every age group. The moment you walk in, you're transported to the mountains, forests, rivers, and valleys of the Yellowstone region. You explore exhibits featuring wolves, bears, elk, bighorn sheep, mountain lions, and countless other species that call Wyoming home. This place isn't about only artifacts behind glass. The Draper creates an experience that feels alive. Why Families Love the Draper Museum One reason travelers consistently recommend the museum is its ability to engage visitors of all ages. Children love the interactive displays and wildlife exhibits. Adults appreciate details about Yellowstone's ecology, geology, and conservation efforts. Families can: • Learn about Yellowstone's wildlife • Explore interactive exhibits • Discover how predators survive in the wild • Understand the delicate balance of ecosystems • Experience educational activities designed for children Many visitors arrive expecting to spend an hour or two but stay longer. The exhibits are thoughtfully designed for a deeper understanding of the Wyoming landscape. The Star Attraction: The Draper Museum Raptor Experience If there's one experience you should not miss, it's the Draper Museum Raptor Experience. This live educational program allows visitors to get remarkably close to some of Wyoming's most iconic birds of prey. The program features rescued birds -- wildlife ambassadors-- who educate visitors about conservation and the role predators play in the ecosystem. You'll see majestic Bald and Golden Eagles, swift Peregrine Falcons, striking Great Horned Owls. Meet the Raptors The Raptor Experience introduces guests to an incredible collection of birds. Depending on the day, visitors may encounter: • Bald Eagles • Golden Eagles • Peregrine Falcons • Red-tailed Hawks • Swainson's Hawks • Great Horned Owls • Saw-whet Owls • American Kestrels • Ravens • Turkey Vultures Each bird has its own unique story. Many were injured in the wild and cannot be released, making them ideal ambassadors for wildlife education programs. Visitors learn of challenges birds face, including habitat loss, vehicle collisions, power line injuries, and other threats. A trainer holds a rescued Great Horned Owl, one of the participants in the Draper Museum's live raptor show. Known as a key member of "nature's clean-up crew," vultures are respected for disposal of waste and rotting meat. A unique digestive system is impervious to bacteria and disease. An Up-Close Wildlife Encounter The beauty of the Raptor Experience is that it creates a connection between people and wildlife. Seeing a Golden Eagle soar across the Wyoming sky is incredible. Standing feet away from one while hearing its rescue story is unforgettable. Suli, for instance, hatched in a haystack in Kansas in 2011 where ranchers discovered her and thought her an orphan. They took her to a nature center where she grew up with people not other vultures. So Suli failed to learn bird behavior and survival in the wild. Expert handlers also explain: • Hunting behaviors • Flight adaptations • Predator-prey relationships • Migration patterns • Conservation challenges • How birds survive in Yellowstone's harsh climate We found the presentations engaging, educational, and humorous -- enjoyable for all. Exploring the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem The Draper Museum focuses on one of the most biologically diverse regions in North America -- the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Exhibits showcase: Yellowstone Wildlife, Ecosystems Learn about bears, wolves, moose, elk, bison, and mountain lions. Discover how wildlife survives Wyoming's extreme seasonal changes. Rivers and Wetlands Understand the importance of water systems to regional biodiversity. Geological Wonders Explore the forces that shaped Yellowstone's mountains, valleys, and volcanic landscapes. The museum does an exceptional job of connecting visitors with the landscapes they may encounter during their Yellowstone adventures. Perfect Before Visiting Yellowstone Many travelers visit the Draper Museum before entering Yellowstone National Park. This is a smart strategy. The exhibits help visitors prepare for a Yellowstone visit: • You'll be better able to identify wildlife • Understand animal behavior • Learn about ecosystems • Appreciate conservation efforts • Gain a deeper understanding of Yellowstone After time in the here, spotting an elk, eagle, or wolf in Yellowstone is more meaningful. Photography Opportunities Photographers appreciate the Raptor Experience. While wildlife photography in Yellowstone often requires long lenses and patience, the Raptor Experience provides unique opportunities to photograph birds of prey up close while learning about them. Follow staff instructions regarding photography and respect the animals. Educational Without Being Boring One of the biggest surprises for many visitors is how entertaining the museum is. The exhibits blend science, storytelling, conservation, and hands-on activities. Instead of reading endless informational plaques, guests experience wildlife through immersive displays and engaging presentations. This makes the Draper Museum one of the most family-friendly attractions in Cody. Cookie and a raptor docent examine mice and other food for the birds, carefully kept in freezers with diet descriptions on the walls. The raptors are given a healthy diet, much like they would find in nature. How Long Should You Plan to Visit? Many visitors spend between two and four hours exploring the museum and attending a Raptor Experience presentation. If you're interested in wildlife, photography, conservation, or Yellowstone ecology, you could easily spend much longer. Admission to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West includes access to all five museums. Frequent Questions about Raptor Experience Buffalo Bill Center Is the Draper Museum good for children? Absolutely. Interactive exhibits and live animal presentations make it one of Cody's most family-friendly attractions. Presentations last 30-45 minutes depending on featured birds. Is the Raptor Experience included with admission? Yes. Regular daily presentations are included with general museum admission. Can I visit all five museums in one day? You can, but many travelers use the two-day admission window to explore at a relaxed pace. Birds of prey at the museum include eagles, kestrels, falcons, hawks and owls, viewed at close distances. Final Thoughts and Why Visit If you're planning a Wyoming adventure in 2026, don't just drive through Cody on your way to Yellowstone. Take time to explore the Draper Museum and experience other fascinating wildlife programs. Immersive exhibits, live birds of prey, educational programs, and world-class storytelling creates an experience that visitors remember long after leaving Wyoming. A BIRD IN THE HAND, as the old saw goes, is worth two in the bush. At the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, there are several lively "handsful" of gorgeous raptors. Summer Hours and Admission Costs Buffalo Bill Center of the West and Draper Museum Summer Hours (May 1 – September 15, 2026) 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM Daily General Admission is $23 Seniors: $22; Students (with ID): $21; Children Ages 6–17: $16; Children Under 5: Free Active U.S. Military: Free Park County Youth: Free (with qualifying program) Summer Raptor Experience Program Schedule May 23 – September 30; 10:00 AM Daily; 3:00 PM Daily Included with general admission. Visitors to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West often spend two days visiting five world-class museums. More on that next time, a unique museum complex with a two-day admission. COMING UP: whereiscookie.com spends the day at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, known worldwide, an intriguing complex of five different museums ranging from western history to art, rifles and wildlife. Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekly for more destination guides, hidden gems, road trip inspiration, travel planning advice, family adventures, and unique attractions across America and beyond, at WhereIsCookie.com. You'll find the latest travel tips, ideas, and recommendations to help you travel smarter, explore deeper, and create unforgettable memories.

Three grizzly bears pause on a grassy forest hillside, looking among pine trees in Yellowstone National Park. Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" Few wildlife encounters create as much excitement as seeing a bear in the wild. Imagine: you're admiring a mountain landscape when a massive grizzly emerges from the forest like a celebrity arriving on a red carpet. Cameras appear, conversations stop. Everyone suddenly becomes very interested in wildlife. Bear watching in the Rockies offers sights to behold. Whether you're visiting Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Alberta, or British Columbia, bear country offers some of the most thrilling and memorable travel experiences in North America. At whereiscookie.com, we've discovered that bear watching isn't just about spotting a bear -- it's about experiencing the landscapes, cultures and communities that thrive alongside these magnificent animals. In our national parks, signs alert tourists to major bear areas, but bears move around, so keep eyes open and be on the alert in parks and elsewhere. ​Where to Find Bear Watching Locales in the Rockies When travelers ask us where to see bears, we say our Rocky Mountains consistently rank among the world's best destinations. Stretching thousands of miles through North America, the Rockies provide ideal habitat for both black and grizzly bears. Dense forests, alpine meadows, rushing rivers, and abundant food create perfect conditions for healthy bear populations. Some of the best bear-viewing locations: ​Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone remains one of the most famous wildlife destinations on Earth. Visitors frequently spot grizzly bears and black bears throughout the park, particularly during spring and early summer when bears emerge from hibernation. Popular viewing areas include: A bear stands on hind legs at a vintage station wagon window on a wooded roadside in Yellowstone National Park, in 1958 before tourists realized how wrong and damaging this is. Lamar Valley Hayden Valley Tower-Roosevelt Area Dunraven Pass Fishing Bridge Region Early morning and late evening are often the best times for wildlife viewing. If you want to assure you'll see a bear and wolf, visit the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone, Montana. The center focuses on education and conservation of wildlife. Visitors can observe rescued bears and wolves in natural habitats. The facility offers interactive programs and exhibits for all ages. It promotes awareness about the importance of wildlife preservation. A large grizzly bear with the characteristic hump lumbers across green grass, eyeing the photographer with a calm, alert expression. Most grizzly bear don't seek human interaction. ​Grand Teton National Park South of Yellowstone, Grand Teton National Park offers spectacular mountain scenery and excellent opportunities to observe bears foraging in meadows and forests. The combination of dramatic peaks and abundant wildlife makes this one of North America's premier photography destinations. ​Glacier National Park Montana's Glacier National Park is often called grizzly country for good reason. Colorful sign for Kalispell's Dancing Bears Inn features three dancing bear silhouettes. Many inns in bear country are decorated in bear motifs. Visitors may spot bears along: Many Glacier Area Going-to-the-Sun Road Logan Pass Two Medicine Valley Patience and binoculars are often rewarded. Bear country inns are often decorated with bear designs. It's fun to stay in these, so check out your options. ​Banff and Jasper National Parks Canada's Rocky Mountain parks provide fine opportunities to see black bears and grizzlies. Roadside sightings are common. Visitors should stay in vehicles or maintain safe distances. A bear surveys his territory at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone, Montana. ​Why We Love Bear Watching But Not in Our House Bear viewing combines several travel experiences into one unforgettable adventure. You aren't simply looking for wildlife. You're exploring: Mountain landscapes Indigenous history National parks Scenic highways Local communities Outdoor recreation Here is the damage bears can do inside your home. Devastation in our living room included torn drapes, broken lamps and stained carpets. Bear country often overlaps with some of North America's most beautiful destinations. We spend summers in a remote Montana area, just 70 miles north of Yellowstone National Park. We've had bears in the yard, and once a bear broke into our house through a partially open window. Now we check windows to be sure they are tightly closed and "bear proof." When we spend time bear watching, we usually take a weekend trip and combine several elements: Hiking Photography Cultural attractions Hot springs Historic lodges Wildlife safaris For international travelers, it represents the classic North American wilderness experience. ​ Some Bears You Might See ​Grizzly Bears Grizzlies are among North America's most iconic animals. Characteristics include: Large shoulder hump Dish-shaped face Long claws Brown to blonde coloration Adult males can exceed 600 pounds. Despite their intimidating size, most grizzlies avoid human interaction whenever possible. A black bear visits our front yard, looking toward us as we admire him from a safe distance and take photos from our living room. Black Bears Black bears are more widespread than grizzlies -- they're what we usually see around our Montana place. They are generally less elusive and easier to observe. Their color can vary dramatically: Black Brown Cinnamon Blonde Many first-time visitors are surprised to learn that a black bear isn't always black. Black bears generally climb trees more readily than grizzlies and tend to be smaller. This black bear came even closer, visiting our patio outside the guest room recently. ​Bear Viewing Safety: What To Do and What Not To Do Seeing a bear should be exciting, not dangerous. We live in bear country, but we also love birds so we keep feeders up despite the obvious fact that they attract more than birds. When we see a bear approach, we go quickly inside. ​Stay Far Away, Follow Safety Rules Wildlife experts recommend remaining at least 100 yards from bears and 25 yards from most other wildlife, for their protection and your safety. A young, hungry black bear visits our home regularly, here examining a bird feeder. If we see a bear, we quickly retreat indoors. Experts advise staying 100 yards from bears and 25 from most other wildlife. If a bear changes its behavior because of your presence, you're too close. ​Carry Binoculars A quality pair of binoculars often provides a better experience than approaching wildlife. You'll see more details while remaining safe. ​Stay Calm If you encounter a bear unexpectedly: Remain calm Avoid sudden movements Speak calmly For more information: www.nps.gov; www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org For safety tips: bebearaware.org Colorful fireworks burst over New York City skyline and Brooklyn Bridge at night, with glowing towers and calm river beneath. This year's Fourth of July celebration will be special in many places, especially in New York and New Jersey, with tall ships, roaring jets, extra fireworks, parades and more. Tips on making the most of this day! COMING SOON: We celebrate our nation's 250th birthday, with a salute to the Fourth of July and some tips on having a spectacular holiday. Then we tackle the Japanese travel system, jumping on bullet trains, stepping onto the subway, maneuvering through a maze of signs and escalators, stairs and mysterious tunnels. It's all fun and part of the travel experience. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com.

MULTIPLE VISITS NEVER DISAPPOINT AT WORLD CLASS CODY, WYOMING MUSEUM The Buffalo Bill Center of the West draws an international clientele to Cody, Wyo. It houses five fine museums. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Carpe Diem Kids The road to Cody feels like a journey into a living Western story. As we stepped inside the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, we expected a museum dedicated to Buffalo Bill Cody. What we discovered instead was an entire world of stories spread across five museums cowboys and outlaws, Indigenous cultures, wildlife of the Greater Yellowstone region, Western masterpieces, and the larger-than-life legend of Buffalo Bill himself. Hours passed quickly as each gallery revealed another layer of the American West, making this one of those rare places where history feels less like a lesson and more like an adventure. A painting of Wild Bill Hickock and Buffalo Bill Cody is one of the most admired and talked about in the Whitney Western Art Museum. FOR DECADES now, I've enjoyed the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. It's a road trip highlight with family, friends or visitors from other states and countries.. For years, this stunning complex of five museums, was known as the Buffalo Bill Center In our nearby town of Cody, Wyoming, One doesn't have to be a gun aficionado to appreciate Cody's Firearms Museum. IF YOU'RE a fan of art of the West, you'll enjoy my favorite of the quintet of museums, the Whitney Western Art Museum. You'll see a majestic Deborah Butterfield bronze horse, a stunning collection of western paintings ranging from Albert Bierstadt to N.C. Wyeth, with everything in between. There are fun, recent paintings and sculpture, too, besides the time honored portfolio of artists who joined in and promoted the western expansion effort, or who simply came to know and love the west through visits as tourists. I ALWAYS discover something new, and revisit favorite pieces. Upcoming Event Lunchtime Expedition: A Place of Their Own – Bison Culture and the Northern Plains July 2 @ 12:00 pm - 1:00 pm MDT Buffalo Bill Center of the West 720 Sheridan Avenue, Cody, WY, United States Join Dr. Shane Doyle, Director of Indigenous Right Relations for North America, the Caribbean, and Micronesia at The Nature Conservancy Buffalo Bill Center Location and Hours: The center is located in Cody, Wyoming, and is open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission Fees: General admission is $20 for adults, with discounts for seniors, students, and children. Exhibits: The center features five museums showcasing Western art, history, and culture, including Buffalo Bill's life. Guided Tours: Guided tours are available and can enhance your experience; check the schedule for times. Events and Programs: The center hosts various events throughout the year, including lectures, workshops, and family activities. Accessibility: The facility is wheelchair accessible, with accommodations available for visitors with disabilities. The famous painting of the Custer Battle, whose anniversary is this week, always has people around it. Did you know that painter Edgar Samuel Paxson arrived in Montana in 1877, the year after the Battle of the Little Bighorn, to begin his prodigious research? The painter's interest in the battle -- almost an obsession -- would become a defining element in his artistic career, culminating in his major work, "Custer’s Last Stand." You may not realize that the Center of the West contains five museums plus a world renowned research library. The Plains Indian Museum has a world-class collection of artifacts. Edgar Paxson's famously detailed painting of the Custer Battle Besides the Whitney, the Draper Natural History Museum showcases the rich life, power and beauty of the natural world of the Yellowstone region. The Plains Indian Museum's elegant and elaborate collection depicts in beautifully curated displays the lives and legends of the Plains Indian people, and the Buffalo Bill Museum explores the world of the man after whom the town of Cody, and the museum, are named. THE CODY Firearms Museum is a must for anyone interested in guns, the lore of firearms and their importance in history. Cody's shoot-out attracts those looking for corny but entertaining, old-west fun, each night by the Irma Hotel. The museum houses the world's most comprehensive collection of American firearms. In 1975, the Winchester Arms Collection, the heart of this museum, came to Cody on loan from the Olin Corporation. It was hugely received and gifted in 1988, enjoyed by thousands since. The museum houses 7,000 firearms with 30,000 firearms-related artifacts. A gun lover's paradise to be sure. COMING UP: Grab the gang and head for Fishtail Family Fun Days, a real kick in the pants. The Fishtail General Store is an institution in the tiny town of Fishtail, Montana. Fishtail General Store, headquarters for fun, food and a two-mile long, parade. Not bad for a one-block town. Plus bakery, crafts, kids events and more. Fishtail General Store, Fishtail, Montana The historic Fishtail General Store is entering a new chapter in 2026. After more than 25 years of ownership, Katy Martin is passing the reins to Bryan Rose and Celena Ross, who plan to continue the store’s long tradition as the heart of the Fishtail community. The beloved general store, which has served residents and travelers since 1900, remains a gathering place for groceries, supplies, local news, and friendly conversation in the shadow of the Beartooth Mountains. If this destination sparked your wanderlust, there’s plenty more waiting for you explore more travel stories and inspiration over at WhereIsCookie.com Check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com :

The Buffalo Bill Dam and Visitor Center offers a sweeping view of the reservoir. Editor's Note Originally published: October 2020 Last updated: June 22, 2026 This article has been reviewed and updated to reflect current travel information, attractions, schedules, pricing, lodging options, and visitor recommendations. Just a short drive from the historic town of Cody, Wyoming, Buffalo Bill Dam stands as a remarkable testament to early American engineering and western ingenuity. Completed in 1910, the dam was once the tallest concrete dam in the world and remains one of Wyoming's most popular attractions today. MAN MADE WONDER BROUGHT A BLOOM TO ARID WYOMING DESERT LAND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Visitors can stroll across the top of the dam, learn about its fascinating history at the visitor center, and take in spectacular views of Buffalo Bill Reservoir, rugged canyon walls, and the surrounding Rocky Mountain landscape. Whether you're traveling to Yellowstone National Park or exploring Wyoming's scenic byways, Buffalo Bill Dam offers an unforgettable glimpse into the history and beauty of the American West. Buffalo Bill Dam and Visitor Center, just 40 miles from Yellowstone and a scenic six-mile drive from Cody. So you can visit it going either direction. The impressive concrete arch-gravity dam on the Shoshone River is a much visited Wyoming site, known internationally as a remarkable engineering experiment. Named after the famous Wild West figure, William "Buffalo Bill" Cody, founder of the nearby town, the dam's visitor center provides a sweeping view of the reservoir formed by its construction. Rivers and streams running the reservoir deposit fallen trees which collect beneath the viewing area. A walkway from the Visitor Center takes one over the dam. KNOWN AT the time of its construction as Shoshone Dam, it was renamed in 1946 to honor Cody, whose celebrity, dreams and generosity actually made the dam possible. The showman was among visionaries and investors who formed the Shoshone Land and Irrigation Company, dreaming of turning the arid area into farmland. But even after acquiring water rights from the Shoshone River to irrigate 60,000 acres, the project proved cost prohibitive. So Wyoming's State Board of Land Commissioners asked the Federal Government for help. Scrub land near the dam shows how arid the region is. The dam made farming in the nearby valleys possible. Then Bill Cody stepped saved the day. In early 1904, Cody transferred his water rights to the Secretary of the Interior and in July of that year, exploratory drilling began for Shoshone Dam. Thirty-six years after completion, in 1946, it was renamed Buffalo Bill Dam in commemoration of the one hundredth anniversary of the birth of Cody, the man who made it possible. THE DAM changed the face and future of Wyoming and was the key to opening 90,000 acres in the northwestern corner of the state. Wyoming's parched prairie gave way to irrigated farm land. So dry and forbidding was this part of the state prior to the dam that it was one of the last regions in the United States to be settled. It wasn’t until the 1890s, with dreams of irrigating the region and turning it into productive farmland, that a wave of people began to settle there. That surge in the population coincided with Wyoming's statehood, July 10, 1890. A series of photos and commentary details the construction of the dam. Those facts, and more about the Dam's sometimes troubled history are detailed in the Visitor Center. Most of us aren't aware that there were deaths during the perilous project. BECAUSE THERE was no steel reinforcement used to build the dam, construction crews went through a huge amount of dynamite. Over the six years of construction, seven workers died in accidents -- from blast injuries and falls. It's worth spending an hour with the handsome displays in the Visitor Center to realize the human sacrifice. The 350 feet high structure was designed by engineer Daniel Webster Cole and built over a six-year period between 1905 and 1910, originally 325 feet, enlarged in the 1980s. Today, the dam attracts plenty of tourists as well as local fishermen, even in the winter. Golden eagles may be viewed around the dam. This one was injured on the road and brought to the Buffalo Bill Center's rescued bird habitat. Ice fishing has become popular here; most of these intrepid fishermen pursue trout. The reservoir contains both warm and cold water fish species including cutthroat trout, rainbow trout, cutthroat rainbow hybrids, brown trout, lake trout, walleye and perch. If you've got the time, picnic tables with pretty views are set about the grounds and there's a small boat ramp. Swimming and bird and wildlife viewing are another attraction. We were thrilled to see both golden and bald eagles on our recent visit. Cookie and Keller, with Yorkie Nick stand on the lawn of the Museum of the Rockies by "Big Mike." UP NEXT: Bozeman, Montana, is a college town, haven for nature lovers, with enough cosmopolitan attractions to to draw visitors from all over the world. It's also a museum and foodie haven. After being closed for several months, the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman is open again, and showcasing wonderful exhibits. The Gallatin County Museum is a charming diversion, too. Find out more about this fast-growing town, a gateway to Yellowstone National Park. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at nature, travel, the arts, family and more. whereiscookie.com

Tepees make a colorful photo at the entrance to the Visitor Center and memorials at the Little Bighorn Battlefield. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Both Custer and Sitting Bull are honored in a memorial at Garryowen. It doesn’t seem possible that it was seventy years ago this June 25, 1946, that I last saw General Custer. No, that isn’t quite exact; that was the last time I saw him alive, for two days later I looked down on his body, lying white in the Montana sun. That was June 27, 1876. And the following day, I helped bury him and his brother, Captain Tom Custer. … It was hard digging on that high ridge that bordered the Little Big Horn..... Charles Windolph, last Army survivor of Custer Battle. 'LAST SURVIVOR' OF CUSTER'S ARMY LIVED NEARLY A CENTURY, RECORDED FINDING THE BODY OF CUSTER WELL OF COURSE there were survivors at the Battle of the Little Bighorn. Thousands of Indian warriors lived to tell the tale. But as a kid growing up in Montana, I was told there were no survivors. No Army survivors among the soldiers Custer kept by his side when he divided up the companies. That's what we should have been told. Charles Windolph lived to age 98 and recorded his memories of the infamous battle's aftermath. AMONG THE OTHER men who fought with Custer's colleagues, Benteen and Reno, a man named Charles Windolph lived to nearly a century and told what he saw of the Seventh Cavalry's demise. Windolph died at age 98, on March 11, 1950, the last survivor of the Battle of the Little Bighorn. He passed away at Lead, South Dakota, leaving a vivid first-person account of the military disaster that wiped out George Armstrong Custer and 265 of his troopers. Indian men participate in a drum ceremony honoring their lost ancestors, during the 139th Battle of the Little Bighorn Anniversary activities recently. Little Bighorn Battlefield Lore WINDOLPH HELPED bury the bodies of his fallen comrades on a blazing hot June day, up on the hill where Custer’s luck ran out. He described the scene in a book, "I Fought With Custer," published 71 years later: Charles Windolph lived to age 98 and recorded his memories of the infamous battle's aftermath. "Custer was lying a trifle to the southeast of the top of the knoll – where the monument is today. I stood six feet away holding Captain Benteen’s horse while he identified the General. His body had not been touched, save for a single bullet hole in the left temple near the ear, and a hole on his left breast. … His brother Tom lay a few feet away." A native American memorial was begun in the 1990s and stands as proud testimony to the warriors lost during the battle to remain on their land. REPORTERS SAID the elderly cavalryman's mind so many years later was “as clear as a bell and his memory was prodigious.” Published by a father and son writing team in 1947, the Frazier and Hunt book tells the dramatic story of Windolph’s experiences with the Seventh Cavalry and Custer. Little Bighorn Battlefield We noted the 139th anniversary of the Battle of the Little Bighorn this year, paying our respects to both fallen soldiers and native American for their bravery, even though foolish decisions by Custer led to the death of many. A Park Ranger at the monument shows where Custer and his men fell. YES, THERE WERE survivors of the two-day siege on the Little Bighorn, but they were not among the five companies who stayed with Custer. Those 265 men were all lost. But Reno's and Benteen's companies had survivors and after a slow two-day march, the wounded soldiers from the Battle of the Little Bighorn reached the steamboat Far West. THE VESSEL had been leased by the U.S. Army for the 1876 campaign against the "hostile" Sioux and Cheyenne Indians. Naturally, they were reluctant WINDOLPH OWED his survival to that steamboat and its captain. For he and other more gravely wounded soldiers would probably not have survived a horseback ride to North Dakota and medical assistance. to be herded to reservations. UP NEXT: On June 28, Captain Grant Marsh of the steamboat Far West and several other men were fishing a mile from the boat when a young Indian on horseback approached. “He wore a dejected countenance,” one man wrote. By signing and drawing on the ground, the Indian explained that many were dead but there were survivors. They would make their way in two days to the boat which took them to medical help. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more. www.whereiscookie.com

Cody's historic main street is a showy mix of shops, restaurants and an old-fashioned theater with live shows. Old west charm, world class museum, bar hopping, great food, fun hotels and treats of the natural world await STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Cody is one of those under-the-radar Western towns that performs extremely well in SEO when positioned correctly with history + Yellowstone proximity + Americana storytelling. Here’s a clean, ready-to-use Wix blog structure package for WhereIsCookie.com 👇 Cody, Wyoming Travel Guide Key Attractions: Buffalo Bill Center of the West Old West towns nearby in Wyoming Gateway to Yellowstone If you’ve ever wanted to experience the American West as it once was, Cody delivers in full. Founded by the legendary Buffalo Bill Cody, this rugged yet welcoming town sits on the doorstep of Yellowstone National Park and offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and outdoor adventure. From nightly rodeos to one of the most impressive museum complexes in the country—the Buffalo Bill Center of the West—Cody is more than just a stopover; it’s a destination in its own right. Cody, Wyoming Travel Guide: Wild West History & the Buffalo Bill Center of the West CODY IS the type of town that makes you believe in time travel with a Western USA road trip. It offers an authentic cowboy town experience” and you'll see rhinestone cowboys from elsewhere along with the real deal. Except for the cars, cell phones and contemporary clothing in store windows, you could be visiting this authentic western town a century ago. Cody's proximity to rivers, and changing autumn colors makes it appealing. The Irma Hotel is a landmark on main street with a famous bar. Stop in for a drink at the Irma Hotel, and admire the bar as you sip. It's among Cody's treasures, an ornate and beautifully preserved antique. The Irma Hotel, above and left, is well known for its ambiance. It is popular with locals and tourists. The bar was a gift from England's Queen Victoria, a hefty acknowledgment of her appreciation for Buffalo Bill Cody, who brought his Wild West show across the Atlantic. Buffalo Bill's legacy remains in Cody, Wyoming, east gateway to Yellowstone National Park, as do the natural wonders and wildlife that make a visit to Cody, Wyoming so exciting. Cody's residential area above town sports lovely yards and native flora. THE BUFFALO BILL Historical Center, whose name changed to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, is a stunning complex of five museums and a research library featuring art and artifacts of the American West. It's Cody's pride and joy and visitors come from around the world to enjoy an unparalleled collection of western art, guns, Plains Indian lifestyle and much more. The Buffalo Bill Historical Center has had a recent name change, and attracts fans of western lore and history from all over the world. THE FIVE excellent museums are the namesake Buffalo Bill Museum, dedicated to his life and legendary touring western show; Whitney Gallery of Western Art, including world class artwork portraying both the beauty and myths of the West; Plains Indian Museum, with its insights into Native American culture; Cody Firearms Museum, with thousands of guns and weapons, and the Draper Museum of Natural History with hands on natural world exhibits to help us understand our environment and Yellowstone's own particular ecosystem. The Sunlight Basin and its wonderful views and vistas attracts many people who are visiting nearby Cody, Wyo. If you're in the vicinity of Cody, Powell or Meeteetse, you'll also enjoy abundant outdoor recreation opportunities -- hunting, fishing, golf, river rafting, rock and ice climbing, hiking, mountain biking and camping. WHAT MOST of us native westerners like about Cody is its easy going charm. People still greet one another on the street. Yet despite its casual and laid back feeling, upscale galleries sell world class art. Eateries and nightspots offer a wowing array -- from simple fare to more elaborate meals. Walk down main street -- you'll find barbecue, fried chicken, salads, wraps, Asian and even vegetarian fare. Cody has changed since my first visits as a kid in the late 1950s! THE CODY Trolley takes you around town to the most interesting spots, including the museum. A tour guide dresses as sharpshooter Annie Oakley. There's music and a regular cowboy revue, fishing pointers and guided tours of the rivers -- check out North Fork Anglers. Most of all, nature abounds, as welcoming and friendly as Cody herself! More information: codyyellowstone.org Chief Joseph Scenic Highway is near and worth a side trip, or drive it one way to or from Cody. COMING UP: If you've enjoyed Cody's pleasures, you'll appreciate the beauty of nearby Sunlight Basin and historic Chief Joseph Highway. These are a road tripper's dreams -- wild heights, sublime scenery and gorgeous places to picnic or unwind and gaze at clouds. Check us out weekly, when we strive to imbue travel with a sense of fun and adventure. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature and more at: www.whereiscookie.com

Zion National Park is a splendid unfolding of nature's dramatic rock, water, light and more. Zion National Park If has been sitting on your bucket list, this is the year to check it off. Beyond the iconic red rock cathedrals and gravity-defying hikes, this year brings a mix of brand-new luxury, restored access, and unique milestones that make it the ultimate time for a Southwest escape. Restored Access to Emerald Pools: After two years of construction, the Emerald Pools Bridge has officially reopened. This restored connection from the Zion Lodge directly to the Emerald Pools trail system means you can once again easily access one of the park’s most lush and iconic landscapes without long detours. Post-Hike Recovery at Zion Canyon Hot Springs: Just outside the park in La Verkin, the newly opened Zion Canyon Hot Springs offers a world-class recovery spot. With 50 pools inspired by global springs like the Blue Lagoon and the Dead Sea, it’s the perfect place to soak your muscles after tackling the Narrows. The Rise of Black Desert Resort: For those who want "rugged" by day and "regal" by night, the Black Desert Resort (now the largest in Utah) is officially open. Located amid ancient lava fields, it features a championship golf course that hosted both LPGA GORGEOUS NATIONAL PARK IN UTAH IS PROUD TESTIMONY TO POPULARITY OF OUR TREASURED PARK LAND STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" As soon as visitors disembark the shuttle, they can shop for drinks or souvenirs and await the buses that tour the park. THE PIONEERS who first drove their wagons into this stunning natural wonder, would probably be amazed at the traffic in Zion National Park today. Long gone are horse and wagon. But hundreds of cars line the nearby roads, at a variety of well-marked shuttle stops. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers hike one of Zion's trails. So popular has Utah's first national park become that one must take a shuttle into the park and then get around in little touring buses. Still, it's a wonder to behold. We recently joined hundreds of fellow park lovers to retrace the same paths native people and pioneers walked. IT WAS WARM -- a hot and dry day -- 100 degrees -- so we made certain we had water bottles and sun hats. Then we set off on tour buses, winding under the park's massive sandstone cliffs of cream, pink, and red. One has the option of exiting the bus at various stops, to soak up the scene under a brilliant blue sky. We were dwarfed by towering cliffs as we hiked through the park's beautiful wilderness in a series of narrow canyons. Christene "Cookie" Meyers hits the trail. Zion stands as proud testimony to popularity of national parks in the U.S. Millions visit from around the world. We heard an international mix of language -- Japanese, Italian, French, German and Norwegian -- during our three-day visit. The only disappointment was the inability to drive through the park and take our time in our own vehicle as we can still do in Yellowstone. But we understand the change from private cars to group transportation. THE ZION shuttle program began a few years ago, following suit with programs begun in other national parks since 2,000. According to a Zion National Park Service spokesman, the parks began operating shuttles because of traffic overload. The attempt to reduce both traffic and the parking problems caused by cars has been successful and millions of tourists now use shuttles in several of our most popular parks. "The shuttle system has restored tranquility to Zion," a park ranger told us. He explained that the shuttle system has helped restore vegetation and maintain the park's natural landscape. So which of our national parks are the most popular? Hikers and nature lovers from around the world drive in a tour bus to various stops for exploring Zion. In 2018, Zion ranked fourth among America's most visited national parks, ahead of Yellowstone, which came in fifth and Yosemite which placed sixth. Grand Canyon National Park tops the list, with Rocky Mountain National Park and Acadia National Park right behind. Each had over 4 million visitors. In Montana and Wyoming, Yellowstone's neighboring Grand Teton National Park had 3.88 million visitors. Outside the park, shuttle stops are well marked. One pays for parking though, and can use a credit card. The Narrows in Zion National Park is worth the hike. Our national parks are a treasure. IF YOU HAVE limited time -- and can choose only one hike -- we recommend going into The Narrows, the park's narrowest and most dramatic section, deep in Zion Canyon. The gorge walls are a thousand feet tall and the river sloshes over on the trail, so your feet may get wet. We carried an extra pair of shoes, based on a ranger's recommendation and were grateful to have the change. It's a challenging hike on a hot day, about 1.5 miles from the bus drop-off. But there are shady places to shelter on the way. Other popular hikes are Angel's Landing and Canyon Overlook Trail. Another beautiful area of Zion National Park is Zion Canyon, easily accessed along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, a curving road running along the canyon floor, with towering cliff walls on both sides. DO YOUR homework to prepare for Zion. There are many trails and various fees depending on if you are walking, on motorcycle, etc. We recommend reserving and paying on line to make the most of your time once you're there. Here's a website to get you started: www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/fees NEXT UP: "Raising Christena." Our 12-year old niece and my namesake, Christena, was born with Down Syndrome. The challenges of raising a child with a birth defect -- "special needs" -- is one shared by the child's entire family and support system. Christena's "Village," as Hillary Clinton called it, is a sturdy one with family, friends, doctors, nurses, speech therapists, musicians, teachers and more. Christena Robbie Cosgriffe, named after two of her aunties, is a happy well adjusted child with her special needs looked after. Here she poses with Aunties Olivia and Christene, and uncles Rick and Bruce, at a family gathering. Discover how we are addressing the challenge and remember to explore, learn, and live: New travel stories, tips & unforgettable experiences Follow our journeys at WhereIsCookie.com

HISTORIC HOTEL LURES VACATIONERS FOR A DAY, A WEEK, A CELEBRATION, REST AND A FINE MEAL The venerable Pollard, with the year's first snow, welcomes visitors from around the world. Editor's Note: This story was revisited, researched and updated in June of 2026 STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" RED LODGE – Since the Pollard Hotel began a serious spiffing up more than a decade ago, its inviting atmosphere continues to lure vacationers, locals and regulars for fine food and a pleasant stay. Its charms make it an enduring presence in this lively western town. The delightful restaurant has continued to improve and innovate, often acting as the drawing card for an overnight stay. The Red Lodge retreat has been a glorious haven for decades. It was the first brick building constructed in the picturesque mining town and opened its doors opened with fanfare in 1893. Through the years, the menu has evolved from soups, sandwiches and burgers to an upscale medley of bistro offerings. The hotel's major restoration retained same old fashioned hospitality that charmed guests more than a century ago. Antiques, historic photos and western furniture reflect the Pollard's atmosphere, here in the historic drawing room where diners enjoy breakfast coffee or sip cocktails before lunch or dinner. Pollard Hotel in Red Lodge charms with artful lodging, meals VINTAGE ONE Bistro in the historic venue presents a thoughtfully selected menu of appetizers, soups, salads and entrees -- artfully arranged on the plate. We've enjoyed tasty tasty bison tenderloin, mouth-watering prime rib stroganoff and a satisfying meatloaf made of elk. The nod to wild game is a thoughtful addition. A pleasing maple salmon entrée features roasted veggies and bacon and corn fritters. Both gluten free and all-vegetarian entrees -- maybe pesto with pine nuts -- are offered. Desserts are delectable, and change daily. BREAKFAST is a treat -- savory salmon and brie eggs benedict, a filling breakfast burrito with chorizo and homemade salsa. The steak and eggs were perfectly cooked. The much loved gathering place has a guest roster to behold: politicians, actors and other personalities including William Jennings Bryan, famed silver-tongued orator; General Miles, the Indian fighter; copper kings William and Marcus Daly, scout Liver Eatin' Johnston and the raucous Calamity Jane. Management has changed several times, but the promise to deliver “continuous improvement” remains constant. Like the Bistro, with its big-city appeal, the Pollard aims for its rooms to attract diners with the same flair and excellence. The boutique hotel ambiance includes comfy beds, beautiful lighting, a book trade shelf and other nice touches. Colorful plated steak at the Pollard is topped with edible flowers and chives, berries and vegetables. Tacos are artfully served and a favorite of diners at Pollard Hotel in Red Lodge. Pollard Hotel in Red Lodge is relaxing and decorated with attractive paintings, plants and comfortable chairs to encourage lingering at either end of the day. There’s plenty to catch the eye. The hotel also proudly shows off Charles Ringer mobiles and sculpture, paintings drawn from the nearby natural world and historic photos. Fine woodwork and first-class appointments encourage conversation with a cup of coffee or cocktail in the “History Room” study or around the fireplace in the rear gallery. Some of the rooms look out from balconies on the rear gallery and these rooms are our favorites. Hiking near Red Lodge, fall is in the air, and the first reds, golds and purples await. Next up, the song that says autumn, and other seasonal nods. IF AFTER a long day of exploring Red Lodge and the nearby forest, you don't want a fancy dinner, you needn't leave the hotel. The Pollard’s Pub offers top regional jazz acts and a fun bar-fare menu with satisfying gems such as hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage and deep fried! It goes well with regional beers or a glass of wine. The Pollard remains true to its vision of excellence and service, dating back more than a century ago when it hosted faithful locals along with Indian scouts and copper kings, touring actors and politicians. The bistro is a delightful get-away setting for a special dinner or breakfast. And the Pub is the ticket for a spontaneous night on the town. More information or to book a stay or make a dinner reservation: 406 446-0001 pollardhotel.com Friend Brad Smith was up at dawn to watch this black bear climb into our open garage and snack on dog food. COMING UP: The bear facts. Guess who's coming to dinner at High Chaparral? We'll share recent bear and deer photos with our ode to the wild. Then autumn leaves, so poignantly described in "September Song," prompt Cookie's ode to the beauty of the changing colors and the "temporary melancholia," as her grandmother called it. Fall -- that beautiful season. We aim for a fresh look at nature, travel and adventure, posting weekly at www. whereiscookie. com

Snow can come to Red Lodge in summer -- but usually doesn't stay down long. The Pollard is a hotel for all seasons -- stately and beautiful rain or shine, summer, spring, winter or fall. Authors Note: this story was originally published a few years ago. It has been thoroughly researched and verified to reflect current information Updated June 21, 2026 STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Step into Montana history at the Pollard Hotel in Red Lodge, where Old West charm meets modern comfort. Originally established in 1893, this beautifully restored historic hotel has welcomed travelers, adventurers, and even notable figures for more than a century. Located in the heart of downtown Red Lodge, the Pollard is for us the perfect base for exploring local shops, restaurants, outdoor recreation and the spectacular Beartooth Highway. We've taken friends from Italy and England to the Pollard, attended a wedding reception there and remember a romantic anniversary. It's a fine way to start a Yellowstone road trip or a Montana adventure, offering an authentic and memorable stay. IT'S HARD FOR us to drive through Red Lodge without at least stopping by The Pollard for a glass of wine in the Pub or a stroll through the artfully appointed lobby to take a few moments of calm in the much loved History Room. Pollard Hotel Red Lodge is as much a part of the landscape of Red Lodge as is the main street, North Broadway itself. The Red Lodge main street is always lovely in summer, with baskets of hanging flowers, a clean street and lovely brick facades. The hotel has been visited by legions of travelers and famous personalities. An institution since 1893, the meticulously restored hotel combines gracious lodging with fine dining and an atmosphere both elegant and reflective of its western setting. A RECENT visit found us enjoying a blues guitarist in the Pollard's Pub. Besides a pleasant mix of music for many tastes, one may enjoy appetizers with a western flair. The variety of music provided by the congenial Pub ranges from classic, old-time rock and roll to country western, ballads and folk music, and an original, appealing Belgian country- folk musician. Illustrating the Pollard's broad range of offerings is Barnabe Deliens, Belgian country folk musician, on July 28, and the always popular Jeff Troxel and Trevor Krieger playing a folk and Americana mix, July 31. Members of the Billings Symphony are performing Wednesday, Aug. 19, at 7 p.m. Calming colors, highly polished wood and muted lighting welcome guests. THE POLLARD'S colorful and rich hosting history in includes entertaining guests such as Buffalo Bill Cody, and a century of dignitaries, authors, actors and other celebrities. Calamity Jane is said to have made a lively entrance in the graciously appointed lobby then taken a meal in the restaurant. The dining room is the place for an elegant meal, and the lamb chops with feta and oregano seasoning are first class. Perfectly done pasta, succulent rib eye and tasty shrimp round out the menu, with a small but superb selection of appetizers -- the crispy and nicely spiced calamari remains my personal favorite. Why Stay at the Pollard Hotel in Red Lodge? Step into Montana history -- Built in 1893, the Pollard is one of Montana's most iconic historic hotels and has welcomed legendary guests including Buffalo Bill Cody and Calamity Jane. Experience authentic Old West character -- Original architecture, handcrafted woodwork, vintage furnishings, and period details create a genuine sense of place that modern chain hotels simply can't match. Enjoy modern comfort in a historic setting -- The hotel has been carefully restored and updated, combining historic charm with contemporary amenities, comfortable rooms, Wi-Fi, fitness facilities, and upscale bathrooms. Stay in the heart of downtown Red Lodge -- Walk to restaurants, galleries, boutiques, museums, and local attractions without needing a car. Dine on-site at a local favorite -- We've enjoyed the Pollard's hearty breakfasts, lunches, craft cocktails, and classic Montana hospitality at the hotel's restaurant and bar. Use it as a Yellowstone and Beartooth Highway basecamp -- The Pollard is perfectly positioned for exploring Yellowstone National Park, the Beartooth Highway, hiking trails, fly-fishing waters, and mountain adventures. The Pollard's rooms are both comfy and attractive, with amenities one expects in a fine hotel. Sunday brunch at the Pollard is a Red Lodge tradition. It's a great way to begin a day trip -- whether you're a local or visitor. Billings is only an hour away -- and the glories of Yellowstone Park are a pleasant few hours' drive through Cooke City and the Northeast entrance. Additional places to stay near Beartooth Highway with lodging in Red Lodge are: Pippinger House — living in historic Red Lodge. A Little Cabin with Hot Tub in Red Lodge, Montana More information or to book: 406 446-0001; thepollardhotel.com COMING UP: Juliana Stevens has a "jammin' " rock and art shop in Columbus, Montana. A former social worker with an eye for agates and other art, walked by a space for rent in Columbus, Montana, three years ago. The result: Julianas Jammin Art and Rock Shop in Columbus, Montana. Find out how Julianna Stevens made the journey from counseling to creating jams, jewelry and art, in a shop with soul. Remember to explore, learn and live, and for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, road trips and the natural world, catch us weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com

The family run Crazy Mountain Inn against a lovely rainbow sky in the small Montana town of Martinsdale. Guest house, cafe in the middle of nowhere offer guests opportunity to go back in time STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Scenery surrounding Crazy Mountain Inn is serene and green. Nestled beneath the dramatic peaks of Montana's Crazy Mountains, the Crazy Mountain Inn offers travelers a comfortable and convenient place to experience Big Sky Country. Whether you're passing through on a road trip, exploring nearby hiking trails, or searching for a peaceful getaway, the inn provides easy access to outdoor adventures, local history, and breathtaking landscapes. Its friendly atmosphere and central location make it a favorite stop for visitors looking to discover the authentic character of rural Montana. GLISTENING in the rain, the Crazy Mountain Inn looks like a setting from an Agatha Christie novel. She could be perched high upon a cliff, or set back deep in the woods. But she's situated a couple miles off Highway 12 in Martinsdale, about 30 miles from Harlowton, Montana, under the majestic shadow of the Crazy Mountains. Family style cooking and casual atmosphere attract the Cosgriffe clan. The rooms are basic, the bathroom is down the hall, and "air conditioning" comes when you open your window or plug in a fan. But the rooms are comfy, the scenery is spectacular and the meals are satisfying and bountiful, with desserts that attract people from miles around. Crazy Mountain Inn is of another era, a throwback to the 1950s, the days of "Father Knows Best" and "Leave It To Beaver." You expect someone to offer you a plate of homemade cookies, or a piece of warm sour cream lemon-cream pie. And she does! Connor, at right, enjoys a family supper at Crazy Mountain Inn. PROPRIETOR Cheryl Marchi operates the 1906 building, with a staff of family and a couple other workers. Her husband Peter is involved in ranching and water projects in the valley, so Cheryl is the "hands on" part of the ownership. She's lived and worked in several other states, including Georgia, where she spent part of her youth, and says Martinsdale has been a good, safe place to raise their family. The rustic inn's setting includes paintings, antlers and hard wood floors. She admits to having plenty of "deferred maintenance" issues with the inn -- paint is chipping, framing around the windows and doors needs shoring up and there are leaks and squeaks, drafts and other problems. Nothing that a good five- or six-figure overhaul wouldn't fix! But for now, Cheryl says, the inn struggles to make ends meet in a town of less than 100 people. Weekend visitors going to the nearby lake or vacationers from out-of-state make up the clientele, which also includes hunters in the autumn. If you're looking for a five-star hotel, this is not the place. It does not pretend to be. Instead, it is a folksy, family-friendly ranch style inn with good, solid home cooking in the restaurant, friendly folks to welcome you with no requirement of a deposit! The inn's large downstairs bathroom. The rooms are upstairs and are unremarkable -- basic beds, a chair and extra blanket if you like. There is no elevator and our nearly 84-year old cousin, Sally, braved the stairway with her cane and uttered not a single complaint. The Crazy Mountain Inn's upstairs hallway is moody and serene. The three small dining rooms are adorned with antlers and hides, throw pillows and oak and pine furniture, all comfortable and welcoming. There's a small, private room if you want to celebrate alone and have your meal separate from others. IF YOU'RE accustomed to having your own bathroom in a hostelry, be warned. You'll share, here. (One bath is located upstairs and one downstairs. Wait your turn for the toilet or shower.) The charm is in the friendly atmosphere and good old-fashioned service and home cooking. Area folks come to the Crazy Mountain Inn cafe from miles around -- there aren't many options, it's true. My late uncle, Harry Cosgriffe, loved to drive with his wife Peg from their nearby ranch in Two Dot for a supper treat, or Sunday breakfast out. The cafe counter doubles as the hotel's check-in station. Souvenirs and snacks are also available. So the place is visited by nearby ranching families, and people in Harlowton (30 miles away) and in our case, relatives from Georgia, California, Virginia and Massachusetts, plus our Montana contingent from Nye and Billings. The suppers include steak, burgers and fish and chips, and the fabled, much loved pies. THE BEAUTY and serenity of the area speaks for itself, its own "course" on the menu while you're dining and gazing at nature's best. Breakfasts include traditional bacon, egg, toast and hash browns, along with oatmeal with walnuts and raisins, brown sugar and thick cream. The nearby lake is an attraction, along with the Bair Museum, a nearby historical point of interest. CRAZY Mountain serves some of the best food in Montana. Esquire magazine called it "home of the world's best chicken fried steak." Montana Magazine found Crazy Mountain Inn's pie best in Montana. During our weekend there, the restaurant hosted hungry hiking couples, hunters arranging their fall stays and families looking for an evening without cooking themselves. Homemade soups include a hearty vegetable, the steaks are done to order -- medium rare for us. Rick and Jane and their grandkids, Connor and Elliana, meet lab pups at the inn. The inn is rustic and casual -- our family was invited out back to meet a litter of Labrador pups. It's a laid back, kid friendly kind of place. BUT OH, my, the pies.....my Atlanta sis brought a lemon cream one to cousins and they raved, too! The pie is the "frosting on the cake" after a day hiking or absorbing the art and antiques at the nearby Bair Museum. Besides breakfasts and dinners, other meals can be arranged. Rooms run about $45 to $62 and can accommodate up to four persons. Summer hours are Thursdays through Sundays, until 7:30 p.m. The inn and cafe take checks and cash only and will close a couple months after hunting season. COMING UP: A look at a typical weekend high in the northern Rockies of south-central Montana, where the deer and the antelope play. The Alberta Bair Theater in Billings has undergone several facelifts and is the region's largest performing arts center. And we explore the evolution of the 1931 Fox Theater in Billings to the 1987 opening of the renovated Alberta Bair Theater, the region's largest performing arts showcase. Plus a study of one woman's attempt to integrate death and her beloved departed into a healthy, full and forward-looking life. Remember to explore, learn and live. Check us out weekly for fresh spins on travel, the arts, nature, family and more at www.whereiscookie.com

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" A stay at the historic Grand Hotel is more than just a place to spend the night—it's an opportunity to experience the character and heritage of Big Timber, Montana. Originally built in 1890 and thoughtfully restored, the hotel combines authentic Western history with modern amenities. Whether you're traveling through south-central Montana, fishing the Yellowstone River, hiking near the Crazy Mountains, or simply seeking a memorable small-town getaway, the Grand Hotel offers a comfortable and distinctive base for your adventure The colorful bar is the backdrop as Kim Germain and daughter Jessica take a break from work. A LONGTIME FRIEND of Montana, her husband and her daughter are giving new life to Big Timber's historic Grand Hotel, with hopes to make it truly grand again. Kim Germain, husband Steve and daughter Jessica have begun a grand plan to renovate and restore the 1890 hotel, beginning with cosmetic touches on the ground floor and working upstairs to the guest rooms. Taking on the challenge of restoring a beloved town landmark is no easy task, but the Germains are up to it. 'WE RELIAZE that people don't particularly like change," says Kim, "and we also know how much fondness people have for the place." The family gatherings, wedding receptions, wakes, special brunches and dinners, anniversaries and birthdays -- everyone here has a memory featuring the Grand Hotel." Germain sees the Grand as "the grand dame of the town. She deserves to be loved and cared for and that's what we're doing." A relaxed, western theme greets visitors to the Grand Hotel, here the recently remodeled lobby. Germain has lived in several states including Michigan, Arizona and Ohio, with multiple visits to Montana where she has an aunt in Billings. Her family roots are anchored in the land -- dairy farming and ranching on both sides-- and her affection for Montana is deep and sincere. She has farming cousins and a close relative who excels in competition penning. She loves rodeos and plans live music around those and other special events in Big Timber and nearby. After purchasing the place nearly five years ago, the Germains set to work. A warm, western feel pervades the Grand Hotel dining room, where guests can relax with western art in a casual, yet elegant atmosphere. Both lunch and dinner are served Tuesday-Saturday. KIM SAYS with a laugh, that the purchase came about "because we needed a place to stay while we were looking for property on the Yellowstone." Behind funding the two Yellowstone properties and buying the hotel is the family's successful, multi-state car dealership. "We're a fourth generation business," says Jessica proudly. Diving into the hospitality industry has been a good experience for the family, she says. "It's a learning curve but we have the enthusiasm to do it, and we're always listening to the people." The family originally bought undeveloped riverfront property intending to build a ranch style home on the Yellowstone, That plan changed when a developed property came up for sale. "It looked perfect -- it already had a ranch house and looked beautiful from the ads," Kim says. She sent her agent to have a look and bought the place on her recommendation. "I asked her if it was as pretty as it looked on line and she said it was. I'm given to impulse sometimes." That purchase allowed more time for the hotel project, which began with a redo of the ground floor's popular dining room, the bar area and the welcoming lobby. The second-floor suite the family uses were also completed. A comfortable, ranch style motif enhances the design which the Germains developed with the guidance of a decorator from Phoenix base. Challenges to renovating an 1890 building in a small town include dealing with old plumbing and wiring issues and securing and retaining reliable help. "We have a great manager now, and other hard working staff," says Kim. We dealt with two excellent employees: the gracious hotel manager Stacey and cheerful front desk manager Rio, who came in on his day off to welcome us. "We've had to enlist Billings people for some of the repairs." The menu was also kicked up a notch, with Montana beef featured for lunch and dinner and a variety of enticing soups, salads, pastas, lamb and buffalo. Reservations are needed for the formal dining room but not for sandwiches and appetizers in the bar which offers a range of spirits and many beer options. The restaurant will soon be open 7 days instead of the present five, Kim hopes. VISITORS TODAY enjoy the pleasantly decorated lobby downstairs and an inviting sitting and visiting area upstairs. A tidy small kitchen boasts a refrigerator and freezer, coffee maker and microwave. Rooms include both those with in-suite bathrooms and those with shared bath. A complex of showers, tubs and basins is meticulously maintained in the central area upstairs, which also offers a sauna. Rates range from $129 for room with shared bath, to $189 for a king-size bed, bath and daybed, to $369 for the suite. Pets may accompany owners with prior notice and $20 fee. The hotel also has a low-allergy room accessible by stairs in which no animals are allowed. Recent guests at The Grand include this group of actors from Montana Shakespeare in the Parks, and five fishermen from five states who stage an annual fishing trip and reunion at the Grand. Foreign guests are also frequent visitors. On our recent visit we met a group of five lively men, senior citizens who have been coming to the Grand Hotel for years to fish the Yellowstone and Boulder rivers. "We love the place," said John. "It's got character, history and nice people." We also met a half-dozen of the actors from Montana Shakespeare in the Park, which was performing that night in the nearby park. "We love it because it's convenient and comfortable," said the company's artistic director. "Great place with a fun, historic vibe." To book a room or meal or find out more, click here A koala is in a contemplative mood. We visit two of Australia's nature preserves. ON TAP: From the lobby of the Grand Hotel to the koala forests of Australia, and New York's Central Park, we're there. In the next few weeks, we explore nature preserves in several countries. First: koalas, kangaroos and other magical critters and birds welcome us to the wild side of Australia. We visit two internationally acclaimed sanctuaries in this vast continent, where we feed the kangaroos and hold the sleepy koalas. While we're in the neighborhood, we visit the Australian Museum of Sydney, a world class venue exploring cultures across the globe. There's a stop in store at Montana's historic C.M. Russell Museum in Great Falls and we offer tips on packing light and avoiding the pitfalls of heavy cumbersome baggage and extra airplane charges. We're a nature and travel driven blog, and appreciate suggestions and ideas from our readers. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com More travel tips at whereiscookie.com

Mama Mia! Monuments, cathedrals, fine food, cheap wine, friendly folk, gorgeous scenery....that's Italian via Tuscany! Bruce Keller at Pisa, enjoying a light rain to make Pisa's Cathedral and Leaning Tower glisten! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Rolling hills, sun-drenched vineyards, and timeless villages. This Tuscany travel guide helps first-time visitors and veteran travelers explore the best itinerary, from Florence’s Renaissance treasures to hidden countryside gems. Golden light spills across the vineyards as cypress-lined roads wind through the heart of Italy’s most iconic region. This Tuscany travel guide is your invitation to slow down and experience the magic—whether you’re wandering the art-filled streets of Florence, sipping wine in Chianti, or discovering quiet hilltop towns that feel untouched by time. If you’re planning the best Tuscany travel itinerary for first-time visitors, this journey blends must-see landmarks with authentic local moments you’ll never forget. Tuscany travel guide itinerary for first-time visitors Tuscan countryside takes on an other-worldly look toward evening, as clouds roll in. Tuscany has something for all with its appealing hills, villas, vineyards and extraordinary sunlight. IF YOU CAN'T agree on a vacation destination one person wants scenery, another great food and wine, another monuments and history give Tuscany a try. It's "one stop shopping" in the tourist lexicon, where all the major wants, desires and yearnings can be satisfied no matter how diverse the group, or how different a couple's tastes. Many easy day trips can take you from the Chianti region to ancient wonders. Here the Pisa Cathedral (Cattedrale di Pisa), located in the Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa, Italy. From the glories of Renaissance Firenze (Florence in English), with its vast artistic treasures, to the golden landscape and hilltop villas of the countryside, Tuscany is a wonder. Gaze at the beautiful cypress and terraces of the Chianti and Montepulciano vineyards; stroll through Pisa and investigate its famous Leaning Tower. Rent a car and drive south to lovely Siena with its scallop-shaped piazza. TRY SOME squid and pasta in tomato sauce -- you can smell the basil, garlic and oregano blocks away from the restaurant. Cookie and Keller had morning coffee for less than five Euros in Greve! Stop in to some of the galleries and see why this region has fed the imagination and delighted the senses of countless visitors for many years. For several years, we rented a villa in Chianti near the fun market town of Greve. Each day, we set off from our 12th Century digs to explore the countryside with its beautifully restored farmhouses and inviting tiny villages. Greve is a picturesque Tuscan town with wonderful rentals, inviting piazzas and dozens of reasonably priced cafes. WE'D FIND a new cathedral or small museum to while away a couple morning hours, then have lunch at a new restaurant -- always with a half-carafe of the house wine -- about 3 Euros, or $5 and always delicious. The coffee in this part of the world is also delicious -- small jump-charging "piccolo caffe nero" was my favorite morning wake-up, but the grande caffe con panna was Keller's favorite, warm cream in black coffee and yummy with a couple sugars. Squid in tomato sauce over a small bed of linguini .The chef let the squid and tomatoes be the stars in this Tuscan taste treat. GREVE IS well known to Italians as the market town of the Chianti Classico wine zone. It's occupies a lovely cypress covered niche in the hilly region between Florence and Sienna. We liked Chianti because of the reasonably priced villa, the privacy of our own digs with a small but adequate kitchen, and the opportunity to explore. Besides quick drives into Greve, we took day trips to Florence, Siena, Lucca and Pisa. Vineyards in Tuscany stretch as far as the eye can see, creating a dizzying effect from a passing car. THE OFFERINGS of places to stay range from single rooms to lavish apartments, rustic or luxurious farm houses, and villas fit for a prince. Try Booking.com We like it. Our villa was redone with terracotta tiled floors and beamed ceilings, furnished in country style with authentic antiques and fine copies of paintings by the Italian masters: Giotto, Botticelli, Donatello, Masaccio, Fra Angelico, Piero Della and more. You can visit a different cathedral, plaza, museum, cafe each day, and Tuscans like to mark their monuments and statues with plaques and dates. Our small but adequate bathroom gave us plenty of laughs -- there was no indoor plumbing 800 years ago -- and the kitchen was tiny, improvised from the day when kitchens were located in separate buildings. We had access to a large, modern swimming pool and a perfect view of vineyards and cypress trees for relaxing, Scrabble, drinking wine and reading. MANY OF our friends claim to pay less for villas than for modest hotels. They travel with two or three couples, each with a private bedroom. So consider the option of traveling with others, saving money with a villa rather than separate hotel rooms or suites. We dined like kings and queens and if we returned to a restaurant, it wasn't for lack of choice. It was because we loved the food. The most memorable meal: the aforementioned sauteed squid and garlic in a tomato sauce over just a little linguini! Heavenly. COMING UP: Alluring California coastal hotels, romantic travel by train, a couple lazy days in Red Lodge, two-stepping out at the Cowboy Bar in Fishtail, a trip to Gaudi's wonders in a favorite southern Europe destination, Barcelona. For fun, frolic and off-the-track enticements in pereformance, travel, nature and more, visit us at: www.whereiscookie.com And remember to explore, learn and live!