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The work of Emily Carr, a well known Canadian artist, is on display in a lovely space. Below left, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pose in the imaginative museum. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" NATIVE ART, ASIAN IMAGERY, VISITOR INVOLVEMENT ARE HIGHLIGHTS AT ONE OF CANADA'S FINEST MUSEUMS LIKE CANADA itself, the Vancouver Art Gallery is vast and varied. The Gallery (VAG), has a long history, approaching its centennial. Established in 1931, it is western Canada's largest public art museum and features a vast and varied collection of over 12,000 works by local, national, and international artists . IT LOOKS LIKE a government building -- with its imposing facade and ornate architecture. That's because it was a Vancouver's provincial courthouse for many years. The gallery is a repurposed 19th-century building in downtown Vancouver. As fitting its population (nearly 40 per cent Chinese, Filipino and Southeast Asian), the gallery places special emphasis on art from the Asia Pacific region and Indigenous artists. WE SPENT an engaging afternoon in the gallery, admiring each of the nicely curated exhibitions. Coming from a family of ceramists, I was particularly enchanted by "Written in Clay: From the John David Lawrence Collection." It presents a history of ceramics created in British Columbia, told through the eyes of Lawrence. His finely crafted show represents years of collecting unique pottery -- from friends, aspiring artists and well known ceramists. The artistic friendships, shared histories and local legacies make an intriguing show and represent decades of collecting by the Vermont born, musicallly immersed Lawrence. He lived in San Francisco, studied at Boston University's School of Fine Arts and has many U.S. connections as well as a legacy of Canadian associations. ANOTHER OF the eye-catching exhibits features the work of well known Canadian artist Emily Carr. Her nature images -- sometimes haunting, always provocative -- and she drew many of her ideas from the monumental art and villages of the First Nations and the landscapes of British Columbia. The show attracted a large group of college art students the afternoon we visited. / Cookie tries her hand at a watercolor in large room used for hands on activities. Colorful sculpture inspired by native imagery caught the eye of Bruce Keller UP NEXT: Vancouver is best enjoyed by Big Bus, and we're bus tour junkies. Come with us to explore the neighborhoods, parks and streets of one of Canada's most vibrant cities. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more. We're moving 13 years of work a creating a new, exciting website, so thanks for your patience during this complicated transition. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a day with Big Bus driver Sherry, who knows and loves her city.

The historic Madaket is the last of seven ferries on Humboldt Bay, a relic of the waterfront heyday of Eureka, Calif. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers aboard the Madaket, for a cruise around historic Humboldt Bay. BAY'S HEYDAY COMES ALIVE WITH COLORFUL COMMENTARY, INTERESTING SIGHTS ABOARD HISTORIC VESSEL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IN DAYS OF YORE,  ferries were critical to transporting the people of Humboldt Bay. They serviced both the boats and businesses along the waterfront as the town's fishing and lumbering industries exploded in a building boom. Libby Tonning goes by the moniker "Captain Zippo" and acts as both able skipper and informed tour guide. THE LONG,  sheltered bay with its narrow entrance was obscured by sand bars extending out farther than normal.  Thus explorer Juan Cabrillo and other adventurers overlooked it in their explorations of the California coast. Today, the last of seven ferries still transits the waters. The lovingly preserved Madaket is piloted by a self-described "surfer nerd'' who likes to be called Zippo, a nickname bestowed by her boss, a commercial tugboat captain. WE SET off with Captain Zippo and other passengers, including a family and a couple locals who make the nostalgic journey each year.  On a glorious autumn day, we pulled away from the Humboldt dock, chugging north into New York by water, click here one of the most pristine bays on the west coast, perhaps in all the United States. Because few ferries remain to remind us of the glory days, it was a special treat. The Madaket was built in 1910 and is one of the last reminders of Eureka, California's bustling waterfront days.  The name "Madaket" means "gift of God" and for the people who enjoy the eight-mile cruise, the trip is a gift. Fishing vessels and buildings are described on a journey with Capt. Zippo, from May into September.  CAPTAIN ZIPPO  is the alter ego of Libby Tonning, a natural born naturalist, storyteller and skipper.  She gives a lively commentary on the area, from early explorer days to the county's present industries, which include cannabis. Her love of Humboldt Bay is obvious from the moment we spot our first bird, a graceful egret. "He's likely from the rookery on Indian Island," says Zippo. She guides us past sawmills, boat life, fish-packing plants, private yachts, bird sanctuaries and more, giving a lively synopsis of decades of history, development and change. A piece of artwork near the Madaket ticket booth in Old Town waterfront, Eureka. SHE POINTS   out Samoa Beach, where the USS Milwaukee ran aground in 1916, pulling closer to remnants of trestles built to salvage the 400-foot Navy cruiser. The Carson Mansion is considered the country's finest example of Queen Anne architecture. The Madaket is the oldest continuously operating passenger vessel in the U.S. She also boasts the state's smallest licensed bar, where we enjoyed sodas while the locals sipped chardonnay. THE 90-MINUTE trip is both history lesson and pleasant afternoon. We learn of fish processing plants and see which boats bring in clams or oysters. We Another historic vessel, click here view where douglas fir is cut and readied for  China. We learn of the native people, the indigenous Wiyot. A cottage and fishing boats along the harbor's north end. We admire the stately Carson Mansion, built in 1884 by lumber magnet William Carson. It's a towering Victorian house in Old Town, not far from the harbor. The house is regarded as one of the best examples of American Queen Anne Style architecture. OUR SKIPPER,  a 31-year old New Mexico native, fell in love with Humboldt Bay when she visited as a teen on a family vacation. She returned to attend Humboldt State University, majoring in marine fisheries.  But she was drawn more to surfing and boats, so she cultivated sea time, studying for her captain’s license.  She earned it in 2017 and signed on at Madaket where she continues as both skipper and tour guide. She also surfs, scuba-dives, and works as a hand aboard Zerlang tugboats."I can't imagine doing anything else," she says as we pull along the dock for her next passengers. Madaket also offers cocktail cruises during the season.    humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com 707 445-1910 Thanksgiving in southern France for us included a wine tasting with several small  courses and  plenty of delicious cheese.  The accommodating Provencals  also provided tasty non-alcoholic beer, warm baguettes and berries.   UP NEXT:  Come along with us as we travel outside the United States to celebrate Thanksgiving on foreign soil. Although it's not a holiday in most places we go, we nod to this traditional American holiday with paella, pudding and prosciutto, blue cheese and baguettes, remembering to be thankful for a multitude of things. Those include our ability to travel, immerse ourselves in other cultures, their art, music and theater.  And always, we enjoy their food. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at travel, nature, art, food, family and more: whereiscookie.com

Castle Howard's grand entrance and courtyards hosted the wedding reception of a famed British singer Ellie Goulding to a Sotheby's  art dealer.  Part of the stage assembly and sound system are visible at the right. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   A staged pre-ceremony photo of the Goulding-Jopling wedding reception at Castle Howard was shared with the press. --  photo courtesy London Times    TWO OF YORKSHIRE'S  most historic and magnificent structures became even more famous recently when they hosted the wedding of a famous English couple. Singer and composer Ellie Goulding and Sotheby's art dealer Caspar Jopling had just married on the grounds of the famous Castle Howard the weekend before we visited. Their elaborate wedding ceremony was held in nearby York Minster. History, gardens in California, click here The home's magnificent art collection includes ancient sculptures and Roman busts, paintings by old masters and works by Joshua Reynolds and Thomas Gainsborough.  Castle Howard, like many British castles, is known for its magnificent art collection:  paintings, sculpture, furniture, tapestries and historic mementos. Castle Howard is northernmost of the ten castles and houses considered "Treasure Houses of England."  Owned by Castle Howard Estates Ltd, Simon is chairman and managing director; his elder brother Nicholas, is 63, and each are 50 per cent shareholders. There's family scandal at the castle, made famous by the TV adaptation of Evelyn Waugh's iconic novel "Brideshead Revisited." In 2015, it came to a head as the oldest heir evicted his younger brother and family.  The stately home, 15 miles north of York, is still a private residence for the older brother, but litigation continues. The home has been in the Carlisle branch of the Howard family for more than 300 years and was once served by its own railway station. (What do the simple folk do?) Anthony Andrews and Jeremy Irons were on set at Castle Howard for the filming of "Brideshead Revisited," a 1981 BBC masterpiece. --photo courtesy BBC Films NEVER MIND  the gossip.  For me, our visit was a nostalgic journey.  I am a devoted fan of "Brideshead...," that masterful 1981 British television serial starring Jeremy Irons as Charles Ryder and Anthony Andrews as Sebastian.  The bittersweet story revolves around a young painter who becomes involved with an eccentric aristocratic family. Castle Howard became Brideshead and much of the footage was actually shot there. So I remembered with affection particular scenes in the magnificent gardens, by the imposing fountain and sculpture hall. The grounds are grand and imposing with classical sculpture and an imposing design.  OUR YORKSHIRE friends John and Sue, toured us around the 18th Century castle, voted by England's Telegraph as "one of the top 10 buildings you must see in your lifetime." Bruce Keller, aka Keller and Christene Cookie Meyers pose in front of York Minster, during a recent visit to the UK.  We spent a leisurely afternoon prowling the magnificent grounds with expansive woodlands, meticulous gardens and the sweeping courtyard which hosted the wedding. Positioned grandly on the saddle of a natural ridge, the classical landscape was conceived on a Roman scale by Charles Howard, Third Earl of Carlisle. He was a devoted student of classical art and poetry and wished to recreate an ideal world, a "Versailles of Yorkshire" if you will. He might not have approved of the stage and sound equipment which were being dismantled after the expensive reception following the lavish York Minster ceremony (flowers and vegan cuisine cost 60,000 pounds. Wags put a million pound price tag on the entire affair.) But since construction took over 100 years to complete, it didn't seem unusual that striking the wedding set should take a few days.  THE NEXT DAY   we were offered another historic treat, a double-header. Our hosts John and Sue planned a visit to York's National Railway Museum, one of the world's finest. Riding the Brit rails, click here Sue and John Spaight and Cookie stroll "the Minster," as York Minster is affectionately known. Conveniently, it offers transportation via a charming small road train to York Minster, the second-largest Gothic cathedral of Northern Europe. (Cologne's is only slightly larger.) We took the quick open-air trip then strolled the streets of York a bit -- the Minster is in a lovely neighborhood so we walked around the building, enjoying its splendid architecture. INSIDE, THE  minster was filled with hundreds of blooms from dozens of wedding bouquets. That added to the charm as we admired the elaborate detail of the building. The Minster charts English Gothic architecture's development from Early English to the Perpendicular Period. Amazingly, the building took more than 11 centuries to complete -- begun in 230 and completed in 1472. TO US YANKS , whose culture was founded in the 1600s, the century span is staggering.  But like many historic places in England, the site's history stretches back near 2,000 years. It was first used in 627, when a wooden church was erected for the baptism of Edwin, King of Northumbria. Fountains Abbey is an imposing ruin in North Yorkshire.  UP NEXT : While we're in the neighborhood visiting splendid palace houses and castles, let's not miss Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal.  The beautiful abbey ruins in North Yorkshire remind of a hard life, when Cistercian monks raised crops and raised sheep.  It is   one of the largest and best preserved monasteries in England, three  miles southwest of Ripon in North Yorkshire, near the village of Aldfield. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for fresh looks at travel, arts, nature, family and more. whereiscookie.com

+ Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal in Yorkshire is the largest of  its kind in Europe, a vast ruin  open to the sky. We visited with friends who are regulars to the famed abbey. Bruce Keller dons a monk's robes to try to imagine what life might have been like centuries ago, working the inhospitable land. FOUNTAINS ABBEY REACHES TO THE SKY WITH GIANT PILLARS, ARCHES, HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  NAMED FOR  the nearby water source that once fed the monks' crops, Fountains Abbey is one of the best preserved ruined Cistercian monasteries in England. We recently walked in the monks' shadows in this beautiful but rugged, much loved sanctuary in North Yorkshire. It's located near the charming village of Aldfield and is a World Heritage Site. Medieval architecture remains in a beautiful setting making Fountains Abbey a unique tourist destination. Our Yorkshire hosts, John and Sue, prepped us for the beauty and drama of the ruins, but not the sheer size.  Fountains not only boasts beautifully preserved ruins. It is also by far the largest monastic ruins in the country. ONE CAN walk for hours, and still not explore its verdant slopes entirely. The abbey goes back nine centuries, founded in 1132 when 13 disgruntled Benedictine monks broke away from St Mary’s in York. They felt St. Mary's had strayed too far from the original Benedictine principles of austerity and simplicity. These hard-working men eventually founded their own order, meanwhile plowing the land, raising sheep and providing their own food and garments. Fountains remained in private hands until the 1960s, but in between were the Georgians, who crafted the first of the stunning gardens.  John Aislabie, a well known British politician, and his son William owned the land for years and added to its elegant hedges and sculpture gardens. An opulent Victorian church was designed by William Burges in the deer park.  A Jacobean manor house also stands on the grounds, and this month, Christmas is ushered in with frost twinkling above the moon ponds and a carol service in the cellarium. "Keller and Cookie" prowl the Fountains grounds.   The place is lighting up for the holidays and concerts. THE ESTATE is expansive -- almost 670 acres -- and includes a unique water garden, graceful temples, imposing statues, and large grassy areas used for weddings, picnics, concerts and parties. People travel from all over the world to bask in the glories of the natural landscape. National Trust volunteer guide John Carter explained the history behind the landmark as we wandered: The thick forests and mountain slopes, jutting rocks and raging River Skell convinced York's Archbishop Thurston to deed the inhospitable land to the troublesome  monks.  Perhaps he figured it wouldn't amount to much. Wrong. Clever, and desperate, the monks offered to pray for their neighbors' salvation in exchange for gifts of money and endowments. Eventually, their enterprise made it one of the largest, richest and most influential Cistercian abbeys in Britain. Abbeys abound in Europe and the United Kingdom, but none to surpass Fountains Abbey with its well preserved ruins and fine Visitors Center. BUT LIFE  for a 12th century monk was not easy. The monks undertook vows of poverty, simplicity, obedience, chastity and silence. These vows were strictly observed.  Contact with women was forbidden. Their diet was severe: bread, vegetables and beer; just two meals were offered each day in summer, only one in winter. The monks dedicated their lives to prayer and meditation with church services eight times a day, every day, starting at 2 a.m. Not a life for the weak or unprincipled.     A wedding party rests between photos at Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire.  LOCALS LOVE to show  the abbey off, as well they should. We promised our friends we would return to do adequate justice to it.  One could easily spend a day or two in any season. The site is part of the National Trust, which looks after the place. It also boasts a nice restaurant where we enjoyed lunch. And, of course, a gift shop. Perhaps it's time to purchase your own personal monk's robe. This Chinese style duck was found not in a Cantonese city but in a fancy Istanbul restaurant, on Christmas Day. UP NEXT :  You may not find traditional fare while dining abroad during the holidays.  But you may be pleasantly surprised if you watch where the locals go to celebrate -- and embrace their choices.  Whether it's steak in Argentina, latkes in Israel, paella in Spain or a barbecue Down Under, give something new a try and embrace the change.  You may find yourself dining on duck in Istanbul! Remember to explore, learn and live, catching us each Friday for a fresh look at travel, the arts, family, nature and more:  whereiscookie.com

New Year's Eve lights are spectacular in Bangkok, from the beautiful hotels and a dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya River. Times Square in the distance will soon be aglow and visited by by thousands to watch the ball drop in central New York City. HOLIDAY ON THE ROAD YIELDS SURPRISES, DELIGHTS, NEW WAYS TO CELEBRATE   We witnessed a New Year's Day proposal on a Melbourne bridge.  Aussies use "love locks" to declare their affection. The keys get thrown in the water. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE HAVE logged many splendid holidays abroad. It's a fun way to make new friends and learn new traditions. Some favorite memories of the last week of the year: Down Under, New Year's falls in the summer. So Aussies like to slip a shrimp on the barbie and take a stroll sometimes to add love locks to the bridges they so cherish: Sydney's famous Harbour Bridge, Melbourne's and Brisbane's several distinctive ones. During the holidays -- even more than the rest of the year -- young Australian couples use padlocks to engrave their names or a message, attach them to a bridge, then throw the keys into the water below. AUSSIES TAKE credit for inventing the now worldwide  phenomenon but we've also seen love locks on bridges in Europe, the U.S. and South America, particularly Buenos Aires, on El Puente de La Mujer, or Woman’s Bridge which is said to represent the voluptuous shape of a female tango dancer. DURING A TANGO  dinner show one New Year's Eve in Buenos Aires, we feasted on empanadas, flavorful Argentine steak and an inexpensive, delicious red wine.   The Bay Area's Filoli Historic House and Gardens dresses up Christmas-New Years week.  Here, Cookie and Keller enjoy. In Barcelona one New Year's Eve, we joined friends in a splendid paella feast then at midnight, we ate 12 grapes each for good luck, one for each stroke of the clock. Filipinos put their spin on this fruity tradition, too. Philippine tradition is also to eat 12 plums, berries or grapes at midnight. They also believe polka dots are lucky and wear lots of those.  The fun-loving Scots celebrate New Year’s Eve with Hogmanay, or “first-footing.” The first person who crosses a threshold of a home in the New Year brings a gift for luck. Scots also stage bonfires where people swing giant fireballs on poles. This symbolizes the sun and purifies the coming year. Adult beverages are usually part of the fun. Buffets in Bangkok's best hotels are lavish and detailed. Here, fruits and vegetables in holiday colors abound.   WE TOOK  our half-Scottish great-niece and nephew and their Scotch-Irish-English parents during the holidays to Filoli Historic House and Gardens. If you're in the Bay Area, soon, do visit this splendid 654-acre estate in Woodside, you'll be treated to a fairyland of lights and holiday decorations, a dozen beautiful Christmas trees and a splendid light display. It's 25 miles south of San Francisco, worth the drive. Corned beef and cabbage, with onions and potatoes usher in the new year in Irish homes here and on the Emerald Isle.  The Thai people love New Year's Eve, time for friends, feasting and fireworks. Bangkok's biggest countdown party is staged each New Year's Eve in front of the city's biggest shopping mall in the heart of the downtown. We once had New Year's dinner at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Bangkok, where spectacular food displays shared the spotlight with festive lights and decorations. Melbourne, Australia, "Down Under," decks out its beautiful bridges with holiday bows.  And the attire is summer clothes, south of the Equator. Strolling the bridges is a popular New Year's Day tradition.   IN IRELAND  holiday pudding is often served on New Year's Eve, made with Guinness or Irish whiskey, whatever your pleasure. Corned beef, cabbage, carrots, potatoes and onion are as traditional for Irish New Year as they are on St. Patty's Day in the U.S. South Africans may break their fast New Year's with "khetum." It's rice, fish, chickpeas, yogurt soup, dried nuts and grape jelly desserts. BUT HERE IS my favorite New Year's tradition, which we joined in once in Cartagena:  With two other couples -- new friends, one hosting us for dinner -- we honored their frivolous Colombian custom. In hopes of a travel-filled new year, we smilingly carried six empty suitcases around the block. When you fly or cruise into Naples, you'll have an opportunity to visit the spectacular Amalfi Coast. Consider that for your 2020 wish list.   UP NEXT:   Where in the world should you travel in 2020? Be daring, do some homework. The new year offers a time to plan and dream, and travel hopes come in many  concepts and possibilities.  We'll share one of our favorite destinations and help you plan to get there yourselves as Naples and the Amalfi coast call us.  We'll have fun and be helpful, so join us. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family, recreation and more: www.whereiscookie.com

England-born Sue Speight and American Christene "Cookie" Meyers in York Minster, go back to back in an ancient part of the hallowed cathedral. The two friends have an array of colloquialisms and enjoy one another's language differences.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Sisters Misha, Cookie and Olivia, with niece Amarylla are bundled up in "jumpers" and "overcoats" UK style. In the US, sweaters and jackets. ASK FOR a burger and fries and you're likely to get a blank look in the United Kingdom. "You mean chips?" asks the waitress.  "No, I don't want potato chips.....Oh, yes, that's right. Fries are chips here, so yes, please, I'd like chips with my burger." That was years back, 30 trips ago to England, Scotland and Wales. I soon learned that there are more than a few fun differences in language and many harmless ways to tease one another. George Bernard Shaw famously said that “England and America are two countries separated by the same language.” On my first adult visit to the Cotswolds with college friends, the hotel clerk asked, "When would you like a knock-up?" Of course he meant, "When should we call to awaken you?" Naturally, in the U.S. it means with child, as in "she's knocked up." Chips in America are potato chips. Chips are french fries in the UK and if you want our chips, ask for crisps. WHEN ORDERING FROM  a menu or shopping, residents of both countries may climb a learning curve. In England, our eggplant is aubergine; Zucchini is courgette.  Molasses is treacle. Shrimp are always prawns in the UK. And if someone offers you a biscuit with afternoon tea, do say yes.  It's a cookie, not that morning pastry we load up with jam. untri for a foreigner in either country is often confusing. These are called chips (in the UK) and fries (in the states.)   "Let" means to rent out in England, to allow in the U.S., "please let me pass." Flat is an apartment in the UK, off-key or low of pitch in America. Cookie takes a break at "interval" during a play; in the UK that's what we in the U.S. call intermission.  AA is an automobile association in England, Alcoholics Anonymous or American Airlines in the US. In the UK, a la mode -- fashionable; in the US, with ice cream Lounge can mean a room of relaxation in the UK; in America, always a bar with alcohol. banger, in the UK is a sausage, or car on its last legs; in America, it's a gang member, party or song. Bash means "have a go" to a Brit; in America, a fun party. BOMB IS  a particularly fun word to analyze on both sides of the pond.  In the UK, the phrase has long meant a striking success.  That's catching on in the US, but it still means to go south in a hurry as in "opening night completely bombed." It can also mean to imbibe excessively. In our country, a governor is head of a state; in the UK, he's "boss" of something. This photo of the Eiffel Tower might be called "brilliant" in the UK, "pretty" in US A boot in the UK is a car trunk, while in the US it means footwear. A lorey is the UK's version of truck. In the UK, a jumper is not something you use to start a dead car engine. It's a sweater. BOTTLE CAN mean courage in the UK; in the US it's a container. Jelly is a dessert in England; in the US, it's fruit spread for toast. Aside from its better known meaning, a hog in the UK can also be a  yearling sheep; in the US, it's slang for a hot motorcycle. Brilliant in the UK means tops or very best; in the US, it means bright, smart, pretty. These Englishmen and women are enjoying a pint at the pup, where in the U.S., we'd have a drink in the bar. Pecker means courage "keep your pecker up" in the UK; it's penis in our country and "willie" is a UK penis. (My Irish gran also referred to a man's "John Thomas," --"he should keep it in his pants.") A geezer in the US means an old fart; in the UK, he's a gangster. Buffet in England means a snack, usually on a train; in the US it is a sideboard or serve-yourself arrangement, sometimes lavish. INTERVAL  is a theater intermission in the UK; in America, a gap in space or time. A "jolly" can be a short trip in England (she's off on a jolly) while in America it means jovial. Our vacation is an Englishman's holiday. Bugger -- don't bother me: "bugger off" in the UK; in America, an endearing term for a child. "What a cute little bugger.". Carriage in England is usually a railway coach; in America, transportation for a youngster. This train car might be called a carriage in the UK.  Mind in the UK means watch. "Mind the step."  "Give way" means watch out or let pass. Crisp; thin fried pastry, like our chips; in America, an adjective meaning crunchy. Entree is a starter in the UK, a main course in America. A UK half is a half-pint, usually beer; in the US it's a measurement. Our bars are their pubs. Pissed means drunk in England, angry in the US, with an "off" added. A bonnet is a car hood in England; in the US, it's a lady's hat. Our overalls are UK dungarees. Our robes are dressing gowns in the UK, where a vest is a waistcoat. A macintosh is a raincoat in the UK. Sneakers or trainers?  Galoshes or wellies? Depends on which side of the pond you call home. These kids might be called bairn in Scotland and North England; they could also be referred to as tykes, tots, nippers, moppets or squirts.  (Our great- niece and nephew, Penelope Margaret and James Brian Ganner.) A jock is a Scotsman in the UK, or a private soldier; in the US, an athlete. We don't use "nick" often but in England, it's a common word for ''steal."  Ditto pinch. Panda is UK slang for a police car while we think of an adorable endangered animal. KNICKERS -- women's underwear in England, "don't get your knickers in a tizzy." Seldom used in the US. Frame in the UK can mean plan or propose something: "let's frame it." In the US it's what goes around a painting or photo or a scheme to misrepresent or set someone up. A mate is a friend, not a partner or spouse. A mobile is a cell phone in England while we use the word to mean able to move easily. A mum is a mother; we think of a flower or a caution for quiet. A nappy is a diaper in England. In the US, a wee snooze. THE FIRST  floor in the UK and Europe is our second floor. Ground level in America is their first floor. And never the twain shall meet.....isn't it fun?   Keller and Cookie with Nick and Nora on a recent hike in San Diego.    NEXT UP:   Join us as we bid farewell to a loyal friend and true road warrior, Nora, our beloved Yorkshire terrier. We look back on her lively life, her travels with us and her circle of global friends and admirers.  We explore her musical tastes and recall her fondness for Greenies and strawberry ice cream. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn, love and live and visit us Fridays for a fresh take on travel, the arts, family, pets, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

If the Amalfi Coast calls you, Naples is where you'll likely land first, via airplane or ship. Then on to Positano, or perhaps charming Sorrento. Don't miss the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, victims of still steaming Vesuvius.   NAPLES: LIVELY, HISTORIC GATEWAY TO AMALFI, SORRENTO, ANCIENT VESUVIUS RUINS Cigarettes and cell phones on a colorful Naples street. This lively, ancient city is a gateway to Pompeii, Amalfi and more. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OLD MEETS NEW,  noise collides with calm, clutter meets elegance in one of southern Europe's great, enduring cities. In Naples and this diverse corner of Italy are courtyards and grand staircases, elegant halls and busy streets, buses, scooters, smokers,  tourists, busts, dust, great museums, majestic cathedrals and irreverent youth. Bruce Keller waits in Naples at the Napoli Garibaldi train station.  He is framed by a billboard for Strega, an orange flavored Italian liquer popular in Naples.   The city is one of contrasts and extremes, sandwiched between the Campi Flegrei, or "burning fields" and a sleeping volcano. Just steps from the  sea, Naples rises up, with antiquity and grace. THE VOLCANO, Vesuvius, is one of the major attractions for visitors to Naples, who usually plan a few side trips -- to Positano and the Amalfi Coast, lovely Sorrento and two famous ruined cities. Both Pompeii and Herculaneum have interesting museums with sculptures, displays and interesting background. In AD79, Vesuvius destroyed Pompeii, south of Rome, in about 25 hours. A full day is about what you should plan to see the fascinating city.     The preserved site features excavated ruins of streets and houses that one can freely explore. Because the city was buried so quickly by volcanic ash, it is an eerily, well-preserved snapshot of life in a Roman city -- people crafting pottery, shopping, even giving birth. Equally fascinating is nearby Herculaneum, also destroyed by the vengeful Vesuvius. Unlike Pompeii, though, the smaller, wealthier city was encased in a pyroclastic material that covered and carbonized the town.  This preserved wood in objects -- roofs, beds and doors -- and organic-based materials such as food for us to study. Most but not all of the residents evacuated the city in advance, the first well-preserved skeletons of 400 people who perished near the seawall were discovered in 1980. Italy's train stations will get you from Naples to the historic cities destroyed by Vesuvius. (Plus shopping, ask Cookie!) The easiest way to get from Naples to Pompeii or by Herculaneum is by train. Each takes about 30-40 minutes and there are many of these friendly "regional" trains. WE LIK E the trains but if you prefer a shuttle, that's a possibility, too. We recommend CBS Tours (Can't Be Missed) for a personalized day tour up the Amalfi Coast to Positano. Terrific commentary, small vehicle. Back in Naples, a pizza maker sings Verdi while he works his dough. You're in the birthplace of pizza, so enjoy.  Young boys approach the tourist with smiles and Neapolitan gestures.  Couples lounge in wicker seats drinking champagne at outdoor cafe tables -- as early as 10:30 a.m. Life is lived large in the streets. Strollers enter a mix of students, housewives, children with music everywhere: a mix of opera, hard-rock and Italian folk songs. Music is in the Neapolitan soul. Keller and Cookie admire the view of Amalfi.  IF HOMER is to be believed, Ulysses was the first mariner to escape temptation in the Bay of Naples. According to "The Odyssey," Ulysses knew of the bay’s infamous sirens — part women, part bird or nymph — who lured sailors to their death by singing so beautifully that no one could sail on without succumbing. So when returning from the Trojan War, he plugged the ears of his crew with beeswax and bound himself to the mast until they were safely past the sirens. Angry over their failure to seduce the sailors, one of the sirens, Parthenope, drowned herself. The original Naples supposedly began on the spot where she washed ashore. CBM Tours offers spirited treks up the Amalfi Coast and more. Communities around Naples date to the second millennium before Christ. Europeans visit Naples for its mild, sunny Mediterranean climate, safe harbor, turquoise sky, and indigo sea. Its lush green look is enhanced by rich volcanic soil and an easy growing season. THE RAVAGES  of World War II are mostly repaired, as are the results of centuries of earthquakes and volcanic activity. The traditional Christmas trees are up for a few more days! Celebrated for its paintings, mosaics and music, Naples is breathtakingly beautiful approached from the sea. But don't miss a few days "up the road" to Sorrento, those two ruined cities and Amalfi's enchanting coastline.  MORE INFO: In many trips to this gorgeous part of Italy, Can't Be Missed Tours is our favorite: cantbemissedtours.com ;   And for general information on the area: visitnaples.eu/en Nick, left, and Nora, were four months old in this photo, taken early in 2006. UP NEXT:   Why the fuss about dogs from yours truly this week?  One doggie, in particular, our Yorkshire terrier, Nora, came close to the Rainbow Bridge but has made a remarkable comeback thanks to a fine veterinarian, a doggie ICU and plenty of TLC from the human species.  Doggone it, we love our pets and make no apology. Discover how Yorkie Nora and her brother, Nick came to Cookie as puppies and helped save this reporter's life. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, theater, art, nature, family and more. www.whereiscookie.com

During a period of challenge, loss and tragedy, a fine production of "A Chorus Line" at Welk Theatre, buoys the spirits. This week's column bids farewell to a longtime treader of the boards and theatrical talent while saluting new productions. Our late friend, Karen Jackson, could have played several roles and sung "Tits and Ass" or "What I Did for Love."  The fine production runs through March 22 . welkresorts.com   -- photo by Ken Jacques STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Although she never smoked and seldom drank, Karen Jackson could vamp it up. Her memorial is in Billings this Saturday.  Everything was beautiful at the ballet Graceful men lift lovely girls in white Yes, everything was beautiful at balle t Hey! I was happy... at the ballet --  from "A Chorus Line" Karen Jackson, second from left, would second the motion that theater can heal, comfort, elevate, stretch us.  THIS WEEK's column is part eulogy, part testimonial. It weaves a tribute to my friend, Karen Jackson, with our mutual love of theater and kudos for a quartet of fine productions we've seen this week in San Diego. Karen Jackson's life will be celebrated in Billings Montana, Saturday. She died before the holidays after a brief, ferocious battle with cancer. Critical care for my beloved Yorkie, Nora, and my partner Bruce Keller's Scripps post-transplant tests prevent my being in Montana for the tribute, championed by Karen's longtime collaborator Julie Omvig. Another actor-mime friend of theater, Bonnie Banks, will read my piece. Bruce Keller and Cookie in Coronado for "Babette's Feast." I KNOW  Karen would want us to "go on with the show, so celebrating her love of theater, we're seeing seven plays in two weeks here in San Diego.  With each one, I toast Karen's memory and think how much fun we'd have sitting side by side as the house lights dim. A beautiful, melancholy story of love, loss, longing and life's paths not taken, "Bloomsday" runs at North Coast Repertory Theatre through Feb. 2. northcoastrep.org .  --photo by Aaron Rumley The lovely line from "Everything Was Beautiful at the Ballet" epitomizes what theater does for us, for our souls, our peace of mind, our place in the world. Theater transports us, opens larger worlds. Karen did that. MY EULOGY: Lamb's Players Theatre in Coronado mounted a lovely production of "Babette's Feast." The west coast premier runs through Feb. 16. lambsplayers.org   When I think of Karen, I laugh.  She was one of the funniest people I worked with. In many musical collaborations, we sometimes shared the ladies' dressing room.  At Gramma’s Drammas in the late 1970s, Karen was brilliant as the formidable Carrie Nation in Barry Manilow’s “The Drunkard.” I was music director. One night, the house manager called "five-minutes" as we crammed Karen into her corset. We giggled as we reached the top snap, about to fasten it when it blew! The girdle whipped off Karen and hit the wall.  We collapsed in laughter. As we wrestled it a second time into submission, I quipped, “Well, I guess that rules out breathing.” Karen deadpanned: “Who’s breathing?”     Karen Jackson, right, with her longtime collaborator in dozens of productions, Julie Omvig, who organized Saturday's 3 p.m. celebration of life for Karen. Karen cultivated her gift for making us laugh to an art form, at Gramma’s Drammas, Billings Studio Theatre and Calamity Jane’s.  Like many comics, her sense of humor was her salvation.  She suffered sorrow, disappointment, deep personal losses, including a beloved brother and many adored pets. Like all of us in theater, she picked herself up, started over again. The show must go on.  Karen’s caustic look and withering eye masked a heart the size of Texas.  Her humor coped with hurt, buoyed us up, helped us cope.  What a wonderful gift she gave us in making us laugh – at the world, our town, our foibles.   "The Humans" at San Diego Repertory Theatre is on stage through Feb. 2. Funny, troubling, textured, Karen Jackson would have loved it and probably played the mother. sdrep.org  --Photo by Jim Carmody And that voice. Expressive, perfect timing.  Karen was versatile.  A comedienne extraordinaire, she also melted hearts with her ballads. I loved being in her company off stage, and accompanying her on stage.  We shared a lifelong love of musical theater; she was one of the few people who knew every tune I played from The Great American Songbook.  Our tastes were similarly eclectic: Rodgers and Hammerstein, Jerome Kern, Kander and Ebb, Harold Arlen, the Gershwins, Cole Porter, Stephen Sondheim.  When “Company” debuted in the early 1970s, I suggested we sing Karen Jackson, third from left, was a gifted clown with a fabulous voice, here in one of her many Calamity Jane's roles. "You Could Drive a Person Crazy.” HOW I WISH  that had happened.  We did collaborate though, on several Sondheim pieces when Bruce and I, Todd Yeager and  Karen and a half-dozen other talents sold out the house in  Skip Lundby’s BST “off-nights.” Karen sang two Sondheim ballads. Todd and I sang “Class,” that irreverent “Chicago” lament. Karen Jackson, upper left, as Carrie Nation in Barry Manilow's "The Drunkard" at Gramma's Drammas in Billings. Besides timing, humor, stage presence, Karen exhibited grace. She usually aced the lead, but one time, not. She auditioned for Sally Bowles in our 1977 BST production of “Cabaret.” As head of the bawdy Kit-Kat Band, I listened to her deliver the title song perfectly. However, the lead went to Kathy McCarty. Karen graciously agreed to play Fraulein Kost, who lives down the hall in the boarding house. It's not a huge role but she stole the show with her haunting “Tomorrow Belongs To Me,” creating a Karen Jackson, seated with cane and dog, had hundreds of roles, dozens of faces. A natural clown who could sing!  memorable cameo. What a pro. Bruce Meyers was a splendid emcee and Todd, her life partner, was Cliff Bradshaw, the writer who travels to Berlin and falls for Sally. The four of us formed a fast bond during that long-ago show. Karen and I would be orchestra center for "Murder for Two," an inventive new musical coming soon to New Village Arts. It features JD Dumas and Tony Houck. (Karen and I would audition, too!)   newvillagearts.org  -- Photo by Daren Scott  THEN IN 1979,  when Bruce and I saw Len Cariou and Angela Lansbury in Broadway's “Sweeney Todd,” I dreamed of Bruce and Karen collaborating again. Todd would play Judge Turpin. Julie would be Lucy Barker. Vint Lavinder would be Pirelli or the Beadle.  Cameos for all, a huge chorus of friends. I would be music director. Skip Lundby would direct. It would be magnificent.  But that was not to be, so we save it for a heavenly encore. Everyone on both sides of the footlights loved Karen's humor, grace, compassion, enormous talent, her ability to make us laugh, shed a therapeutic tear. Heaven sent us a gifted clown and now has called her back. “Isn’t it rich?” Yes, she was.  Rich, rare, one of a kind.  How we miss, cherish and honor her.    Karen's life will be celebrated Jan. 18 from 3-5 p.m. at the Columbia Club (former Knights of Columbus) 2216 Grand Ave., Billings, Montana) Sisters Misha Minesinger, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Olivia Cosgriffe (in red) and niece Amarylla Ganner, enjoy their "jumpers" or "jackets" which we Americans refer to as sweaters and coats. UP NEXT:  "Brit Speak, America Speak" could be the title of our next column, a lively essay about the differences in language and word play, with the Atlantic Ocean dividing them. Jumpers are sweaters, nappies are diapers, and a boot might be what we Yanks call the trunk of a car. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, family, love, loss and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

Bohemian Bus Beautiful represents a delightful retro-inspired alternative to traditional hotels and hostelries. CONVERTED BUS PROVIDES ARTISTIC GET-AWAY FOR CHILDREN OF THE WOODSTOCK ERA STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The grounds reflect More's artistic bent and world travels. YOU'LL BE  happily falling down the Rabbit Hole if you venture into Bohemian Bus Beautiful. Proprietor and designer Blake More wants you to remember her unique home -- and you will. WORLD TRAVELER , artist, poet, More hadn't planned to stay long in her spread near Point Arena, Calif.  When she moved to Mendocino County 22 years ago, she figured she'd last about three years "before I got the urge to pick up and fling myself elsewhere." The imaginative bus remodeling project took place between More's yoga teaching, school workshops (she collaborates with musicians to encourage young students' creativity), and her inspired artwork which includes collage, tile work, painting, sculpture, sewing, needle art and floral arranging. Every corner of the property reflects her artistry -- from the gorgeously appointed Malibu Shower complete with tile, plants and a half-dozen choices of soaps and lotions. Her nature-inspired off-grid property is a mile-plus inland from the Pacific Ocean on California's famed Highway 1, in the woodlands of beautiful southern Mendocino County, poet, performer, artist, teacher and yoga practitioner. I love to garden, swim, hike, dance and travel The artist's life of travel and residency in every continent is reflected in her artwork. have been on every continent)! Each inch of the reconfigured school bus-guest house enlightens and enlarges the guest's perspective. Her wall collages, tables, trunks and lamp shades reflect her travels and life in Cuba, Japan, Amsterdam and the Bay Area. More's immense talent in the visual arts mixes mediums seldom juxtaposed and combined.  She does both those with a unique flair. Another imaginative enterprise BOTH OUTSIDE  the bus and around the grounds, guests are free to admire and use outdoor bath tubs (his and hers), artful mobiles and lighting, creative furniture, rock art.  Inside, the kitchen counter boasts a spectacular abalone design, mixed beautifully with a smooth finish.  Light-switch plates are collages.  Wood, plastic and metal all mix, merge and complement. The bathroom offers creative wall art and abundant reading choices. Blake's beautiful abalone inlay work graces the bnb's kitchen counter. The property is secluded and sunny, surrounded by organic gardens and mature trees, native flowers and bushes.  Inside, a small, tidy kitchen has everything one needs to cook a pleasant meal, with several of the windows screened to accommodate evening breezes. The queen bed is comfortable and pillows abound, for propping up for a late-night read. Cooler nights and crisp mornings are warmed by a cozy wood stove.  Cookie and Keller relax at Bohemian Bus Beautiful. Another artist's vision   WE FOUND  ourselves fascinated from the beginning of our three-day stay to the end.  There is such an abundance of creativity, detail and inspiration that one needs to spend at least a couple days to fully appreciate it.   Even the bathroom, a short stroll from the bus, is inspired. "Comfy, creative, welcoming" describe the spirit of Bohemian Bus Beautiful. And, important news for us, the bnb is small-dog friendly.  Just let Blake know in the initial negotiations.  Rates are reasonable and longer stays result in a price break. airbnb.com ;  californiaoneway.com › bohemian-bus The architecture of the Mayan classical period is described by a guide at the historic site of Iximche.  UP NEXT:  Guatemala. Come explore the ruins of the Mayan people in the remote villages of Guatemala. We visit archeological sites including Iximche, for a look at a remarkable historical legacy left by indigenous people. Come with us, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com .

Exploring the ruins of Iximche, Guatemala, provides a fascinating look into the ancient Mayan culture. Volcan de Fuego steams, smokes and hisses as the tourist drives by.  GUATEMALA HAS IT ALL:CULTURE, NATURE,  SPORTS, HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE MAYAN  people were expert architects, scientists, artists and farmers who developed a sophisticated culture. Guatemala offers access to the culture's spectacular archeological sites, where one can actually walk through (and surprisingly "on") some beautiful monuments and ruins. Volcan de Fuego forms a background as farmers and workers tend their crops and ship their wares. We were astonished to be able to climb an ancient stairway to an altar on a recent trip to Iximche, due north of Puerto Quetzal on the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by Mexico, Belize, Honduras and El Salvador, Guatemala is larger than its Central American neighbors, and touches both the Pacific and the Caribbean Sea. BESIDES  extraordinary ruins, the country of 16 million people is home to 33 volcanoes and more than 300 protected areas with stunning diversity including 300 micro-climates. Mountain biking, climbing and even  rafting are among celebrated diversions and the diversity of flora and fauna attracts nature lovers from all over the world. The volcanoes were active the day we drove from Puerto Quetzal -- named after the country's showy national bird.  We saw two smoking, including Volcan de Fuego, which did serious damage in 2018. Teenagers await a school bus, with some going to work. Our cordial driver told us he'd advised the volcanoes not to blow that day.  His admonition was heeded by the volcano, which smoked and rumbled but didn't blow, as our mini-van cautiously passed by. A catastrophic eruption of de Fuego on June 3, 2018, took lives and we saw rubble still these months later. The death toll stood at 165 people, with 260  missing in Guatemala's most severe volcanic eruption in 45 years. Colonial architecture abounds even in Guatemala's villages where much repair is occuring, here 15 kilometers from Antigua (the city in Guatemala.) WE WERE  thankful to be spared, as only days before the volcanic island Whakaari on New Zealand's White Island's northeastern Bay of Plenty blew, killing tourists who, like us, were on a day tour. Putting that out of our mind, we were off to soak up the colorful culture that is Guatemala: 23 ethnic groups, all with rituals and folk festivals.  Each of the country's 23 ethnic groups has its own language and the country's colonial past is evident in the architecture of the villages and the beautiful city of Antigua. Antigua is a highlight for a visit to Guatemala, a well preserved Colonial masterpiece. We captured a close-up of this quetzal. We found the people friendly and welcoming on this, our third visit. Antigua is a highlight for most travelers to Guatemala. The town has gorgeous streetscapes at every turn, fine restaurants and a lively nightlife. Students come from Europe, Britain and the U.S. to study Spanish and hike the looming volcanoes. One may climb the ruins of Iximche, a pre-Columbian site.  Iximcheʼ is a Pre-Columbian Mesoamerican archaeological site in the western highlands of Guatemala. Iximche, meaning "the city," was capital of the Kaqchikel Maya kingdom from 1470 until its abandonment in 1524. The site included pyramid-temples, palaces and Mesoamerican ballcourts. WE LOVED  seeing families and generations strolling, admiring the ruins. Few people have cell phones. It's nice to see teen-agers taking time to visit and greet one another. This is a pattern we observe in relatively poor countries, a lesson perhaps. We saw happy people, in a country struggling with development, trying desperately to improve infant, child and maternal health, malnutrition, A young, pretty Guatemalan girl awaits her school bus. literacy, and contraceptive awareness. Catholicism is the major religion and volunteers are teaching birth control.   THE PEOPLE  of today mirror their ancestors of long ago in many ways: strong, capable, friendly, smart.  They  cultivate fields and farm in ancient ways, and greet the modern visitor with kindness, sharing their remarkable heritage. visitguatemala.com Color, class and character mark Palm Springs, where Hollywood stars flocked in the day. Now, a diverse group of people live and visit this lovely desert town. UP NEXT:  Tucked neatly beneath the San Bernardino Mountain Range in the beautiful Coachella Valley, Palm Springs, California, offers world class art museums, fabulous entertainment including Oscar's, a lively female impersonator venue, a wide array of fine eateries, casinos, 100-plus golf courses and plenty of indoor and outdoor activity.  A two-part series begins next Friday. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn, live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, music, nature, travel, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Palm Springs Art Museum has two outdoor sculpture gardens and is home to paintings and sculpture by Alexander Calder, Claire Falkenstein, Helen Frankenthaler, Barbara Hepworth, Henry Moore, Roberto Matta, Robert Motherwell, Agnes Pelton, and David Alfaro Siqueiros, among many others. Several Moore pieces came from the Ted Weiner family. Passion for art, deep pockets fund treasure of a museum in downtown Palm Springs.....(location, location, location)  The open, beautifully lit space encourages meditation, wandering, enjoying an impressive collection including many famous artists. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HOLLYWOOD ICONS,  civic leaders, artists and art aficionados have made Palm Springs Art Museum a treasure, beloved by the diverse community and visitors alike. The building itself -- 150,000 square feet -- is an innovative,  example of the midcentury modern architecture which distinguishes this remarkable desert town. Docents do their homework at Palm Springs. Here, a knowledgeable volunteer takes museum visitors through  the exhibits with thoughtful commentary at each stop. Its striking, light-loving design is typical of that style popularized from the 1930s through the 1960s. SKILLED DOCENTS  have done their homework and offer regular tours, volunteering time and knowledge to the beloved building. It includes a delightful bistro, two outdoor sculpture garden patios, a lovely small theater -- the Annenberg, named after patrons -- and an impressive array of changing exhibits. This varied, eye-catching  contemporary collection is at the heart of the museum’s mission. Art, space, share a lovely  Palm Springs setting. It contains an artful array of more than 3,000 sculptures, paintings and prints, 2,000 fine art photographs, and another 40,000 negatives, contact sheets and photo-based objects. Significant gifts came from philanthropist oilman Ted Weiner, who kept a home in Palm Springs and was both a generous patron and sharp-eyed collector. He knew and appreciated the work of renowned sculptor Henry Moore, and their friendship resulted in "Reclining Figure" and several other Moore acquisitions which helped put the museum on the international museum radar. This Duane Hanson super-realistic piece awaits perusal. Sculpture attracts viewers. This Henry Moore "Woman' is one of several pieces in the museum created by the renowned sculptor whose work was purchased and donated by a Texas oilman with a sharp eye for modern art.   Given Palm Springs' international reputation as an epicenter of mid-century modernism, art from this period forms the foundation of the museum’s collection. The museum's use of space is both artful and enticing, drawing the eye forward, maintaining an intriguing flow of color, lines and subject matter.   AMONG OTHER  WELL  known artists represented are Alexander Calder, Claire Falkenstein, Helen Frankenthaler, Barbara Hepworth, Marina Abramović, Louise Bourgeois, John Chamberlain, Antony Gormley, Duane Hanson, Mona Hatoum, Anish Kapoor, Anselm Keifer, Sarah Sze, Dale Chilhully and Stanley Whitney. California artists play a significant part in the dynamic collection of contemporary art, but internationally known European, Asian and South American artists are represented, too. SKILLED DOCENTS  do their homework to offer interesting, volunteering as they share the delights of the beautiful building. The space includes a lovely small theater, the Annenberg, named after patrons, and an impressive array of changing exhibits including one by native American artist Gerald Clarke, whose wit, empathy and humor address injustice in often biting ways. The Palm Springs Art Museum is open, airy and welcoming, with plenty of room to enjoy and study the impressive collection of contemporary work on display. The impressive modern and contemporary collection is at the heart of the museum’s mission. It contains a stunning array of more than 3,000 sculptures, paintings and prints, 2,000 fine art photographs, and another 40,000 negatives, contact sheets and  photo-based objects. The mountains that frame the town bracket the building, too, offering patrons an eye-catching approach. It's a fitting preview for what's inside. THE TREASURE  trove of paintings, sculptures and works on paper form a who's who of the modernist movement and the development of contemporary art. Artists experiment with form and materials, and thoughtful curation moves the viewer easily along through three floors of exhibitions. The museum planned a move from its outgrown smaller space in 1974 when renowned architect    E. Stewart Williams agreed to design the building, emerging from partial retirement to do so. Originally the Palm Springs Desert Museum, it has grown from its initial location 1938 at  La Plaza Arcade on Palm Canyon Drive near downtown Palm Springs.  In 1958, it moved to a larger building but soon outgrew that as well. The present location is its third and there are two other buildings under the museum umbrella.  Free admission Thursday from 4-8 p.m., and every second Sunday. Regular hours are 10 a.m.-5 p.m., closed Wednesdays. psmuseum.org BEST BET: John Seibert plays a hapless politician thrust into the spotlight with Jacque Wilke as a "temp" secretary who becomes a "Sarah Palinesque" running mate. Natalie Storrs is the TV journalist who covers the action. All three are skilled comics.  As refreshing as spring rains, "The Outsider" at North Coast Repertory Theatre offers light-hearted respite from election bludgeoning and the world's woes. David Ellenstein maneuvers a crack cast in a fast-paced political satire by Paul Slade Smith. While it's farcical, it has serious undertones, cleverly accentuated by Ellenstein's always astute direction. A truly skilled veteran ensemble doesn't miss a beat -- timing and body language are everything here. Our opening night audience lept to its feat in a "Standing O." It runs through March 22, a guaranteed, timely tonic for what ails you. Laugh yourself silly.  northcoastrep.org    The Allen Elizabethan Theatre is one of three exciting venues at OSF. NEXT UP:  The world renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival introduces its 2020 season this week with a new artistic director and a slate of plays to wow the veteran theater goer or the novice. Read about this extraordinary theater celebrating its landmark 85th season in Ashland, Oregon, where three venues beckon and the wealth of plays awaits. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a novel look at the arts, nature, travel, cruising, family and more. www.whereiscookie.com osfashland.org

The 2020 season at Oregon Shakespeare Festival includes ten promising productions in three venues. Here, the Allen Elizabethan Theatre will present "The Tempest," "Black Odyssey" and "Bernhardt/Hamlet." OSF celebrates its 85th anniversary with a wide ranging repertoire featuring revered classics and acclaimed new work. PAIR OF BIRTHDAYS: FESTIVAL's 85th and BOWMER THEATER'S 50th The Ashland Hills Hotel offers a quiet, relaxing place to stay,  in southern Oregon's beautiful Rogue Valley. THRILLING THEATER IN THREE DISTINCT VENUES  DRAWS ROAD TRIPPERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER   Cookie samples the healing fizzy waters of Lithia Fountain, said to contain healthy, healing properties. TIME TO BOOK  your tickets for the remarkable 2020 season of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. A year without a trip to Ashland, to revel in the country's finest repertory venue would be a sad year indeed. So what to see?  Why not sample the entire docket.  Shakespeare, of course, with "The Tempest," "A Midsummer Night's Dream," and more; cutting edge new work; fun music and adventuresome, thought-provoking theater, for OSF pushes the envelope.  Prepare for inventive staging as the company delivers its engaging 85th season.  "Jubilee"   A mural near Lithia Park down the steps from the Angus Bowmer Theatre and Members Lounge.  The colorful artwork is classic Ashland. year promises the quality and diversity that marked the festival when founder Angus Bowmer had the dream in 1935. OSF's "punch" has a proud heritage since Bowmer staged boxing matches to fund his theatrical vision. His early festivals offered variety and originality. Today's playbill honors that concept through new work and classics with an inventive OSF spin.   "The Merry Wives of Windsor," won praise for its beautifully staged    telling of the Shakespeare favorite. Ensemble.  -- photo for OSF by Jenny Graham ALL THIS  is delivered by a diverse company of professional actors from across the U.S., in the lovely hill-surrounded setting of Ashland, Oregon.  This pastoral but sophisticated southern Oregon town offers abundant diversions to attract the drama and nature buff -- tranquil Lithia Park, dramatic beauty in nearby Crater Lake National Park, river rafting the beautiful Rogue River, fine shopping with area craftsmen and artists sharing their talents, delightful "First Friday" art walks through the town's many galleries, restaurants with something for every palate and budget, a film festival, movie theater and quaint charm of nearby Jacksonville. BOTH THE  85th anniversary season of the Festival and the 50th anniversary of the opening of the Angus Bowmer Theatre  begin the weekend of Friday, March 6. Tickets are selling out for the historic weekend, with shows opening in the Bowmer Theatre and nearby Thomas Theatre. (The Allen Elizabethan Theatre opens in May when the weather warms.)   The town of Jacksonville is unique because the entire village is on the National Register. THE THEATER  buff with eclectic tastes is in heaven here with world class work performed by a versatile, accomplished company. You'll find  experienced, innovative directors and a wide mix of playwrights.  The festival's popular Green Show offers free, fun pre-play  entertainment before evening performances begin. Memberships begin at a reasonable $35. If you have deeper pockets and the desire to honor a loved one, consider endowing a chair.  We have endowed three through our half-century plus at OSF. Discussions, back-stage tours,  pre-show entertainment, and other enhancements are part of the draw. Live music is offered by first-rate musicians, such as this cellist   who plays Bach, Mozart and more regularly in Lithia Park. TICKETS SHOULD be booked now for the landmark 2020 season, which closes Nov. 1, with a range of 10 plays including intriguing new work, from a festival favorite, the bard's "A Midsummer Night's Dream" cutting edge plays with a message and a family musical, "Peter and the Starcatcher." (Prepare for pirates, swashbucklers, mermaids and a ticking crocodile.) "Bring Down the House" offers Shakespeare's "Henry VI" trilogy in an ambitious two-part adaptation.  Another classic, "The Tempest," takes viewers into the mystical land of the banished Prospero, with storms, supernatural machinations and OSF's twist on Shakespeare's exploration of the good, bad and gray in human nature. World premieres are always part of OSF's mission and "The Copper Children" promises social commentary with humor. "Confederates," another world premiere, features stories of two black women 160 years apart. Ducks dive for lunch on a stroll through  Lithia Park near OSF. AS A FAN  of the festival for more than 50 years, I'm excited to see "Bernhardt/Hamlet," celebrating the great actress determined to play Shakespeare's coveted title role. "Poor Yella Rednecks" promises humor, pathos and imagination in the story of a young couple relocating from Vietnam to Arkansas. If you loved "Vietgone," you'll look forward to Qui Nguyen's sequel, billed as an autobiographical love story. "Everything That Never Happened" takes a behind-the-scenes look at  "The Merchant of Venice" exploring the life of Shylock's beloved daughter, Jessica, caught in a collision of religious beliefs and family loyalties. Many levels of participation are available, including seat endowment for a loved one or theater friend. WE LIKE TO  book nine or 10 plays, enjoying the lively Ashland vibe, hiking in Lithia Park, revisiting favorite old eateries and discovering new restaurants. Humor is part of the OSF tradition, with this production from a few years back of  Marx Bros. "Cocoanuts," Downtown Ashland at dusk on a cool  spring evening. The Ashland Springs hotel is at the heart of the small, inviting town. Playgoers settle in for a production in the only outdoor venue at OSF, the  the Allen Elizabethan Theatre here. We also enjoy Ashland's two fine Neuman Group hotels, the lovely Ashland Springs Hotel, steps from the festival downtown, and Ashland Hills Hotel in the nearby countryside, both pet friendly with fine food and tastefully appointed rooms. Strolling outside the hotels, it's fun to recognize actors in two the pubs and on the street. You'll observe them in multiple roles. EACH ACTOR   participates in at least two plays with three to five performances a week, usually a major role in one production and a supporting role in one or two others. A player may headline in one production and join the ensemble in the next, since repertory means the shows run in rotation for the months-long run. There's an intense point each June when all shows on the playbill are either being rehearsed or performed. Watch the web for specials and discounts, which often appear. www.osfashland.org or 800 219-8161; wwwAshlandHillsHotel.com ; www.AshlandSpringsHotel.com ; A once busy hotel pool is deserted in the wake of the virus. Next week's column shares tips, trends and warnings on travel. UP NEXT:   As coronavirus sends the travel industry reeling, we look at the latest information, warnings and changes from cruise, airline and government officials. We also share our personal travel credo and future plans.  In the wake of change and volatility, what should the savvy travel do? We'll try to help.  Then we feature the lively Oregon Cabaret Theatre in Ashland. Plan a visit to this first-rate dinner theater on Hargadine. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com