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Malaga's seafaring history dates back centuries and modern Malaga is an attractive tourist destination. MUSEUMS, HIKING, DINING, RELAXING, BULL FIGHTS, FLAMENCO AND A FINE HOTEL -- WHO COULD ASK FOR ANYTHING MORE IN MAGICAL MALAGA? STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" High above the sun-drenched streets of Málaga, where the Mediterranean sparkles in the distance and history rises from every hillside, an Andalusia road trip features the charms of Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro. Here, guests experience a stay that feels both elevated and timeless. This is not just a hotel stop—it’s a destination in itself, where road trippers are rewarded with sweeping views, warm Andalusian light, and a deep sense of place. Every great Spain road trip deserves a moment to pause, reset, and take it all in—and few places deliver that feeling better than the Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro. Located just above the historic center of Málaga and steps from Gibralfaro Castle, this iconic hillside retreat blends panoramic coastal views with easy access to the cultural heartbeat of the city. Whether you’re arriving after days exploring white villages or heading onward along the southern coast, this stop transforms a simple overnight into one of the most memorable chapters of your journey through southern Spain. Parador Gibralfaro is our latest find, a true hotel gem in a city replete with gardens, museums, plazas and charming neighborhoods. Oh yes, and the sea. FORGET merely passing through. Malaga deserves her own visit of several days. Málaga charms with her magical mix , as a dazzling Andalusian diva. She makes you stop, sip sweet wine, and stay to discover her secrets -- a dazzling collision of sun-drenched Moorish fortresses, Picasso-inspired art, fine food at tapas bars and those sultry, salty sea breezes, OUR VIEW  from the top of the city was chief among Malaga's charms. Parador Gibralfaro was our choice, a gem in a city of gardens, museums, plazas and neighborhoods with a stunning harbor view. We watched cruise ships come and go -- including the one that we would soon board for the Canary Islands, north Africa and an Atlantic crossing. We admired the energy and grace of would-be bull fighters having a lesson in the ring below us. We admired the marvelous Alcazaba, best preserved fortress in Spain, dating to the 12th Century Moors. The bull fight ring is empty of audience, but a pair of apprentice matadors in Plaza de Toros de La Malagueta is taking a lesson from the master. The scent of autumn foliage complemented our tasty olives and goat cheese from a nearby village. We'd shopped at the local market -- a tradition for us in a new city -- to buy happy hour appetizers and snacks unique to the region. WE ENJOYED  the user-friendly "Hop On, Hop Off" red buses to avoid renting a car, and found they took us everywhere we desired to go -- museums, cathedral, parks, gardens, restaurants, plazas. Our week in Malaga was relaxing -- yet one of our most active holidays. Castillo de Gibralfaro is among the oldest remaining citadels and fortresses in Spain. It is above the Parador Gibralfaro which is named after the fortress.  Malaga invites both of those essential elements for the vacationer. One can hike in the morning, tour a museum in the afternoon, enjoy a flamenco concert, tapas or late meal at night. There are lively restaurants everywhere. Ask your hotel or B&B. You can't go wrong. Malaga's paella is delicious, made differently by each restaurant but always with seafood. Malaga's bountiful paella is world class. We had it several nights at various cafes. The birthplace of Picasso is rich with history and has been claimed and enjoyed by several great civilizations. The Romans created the marvelous Teatro Romano, in the first century B.C., in the time of Augustus I.  It has been carefully restored and is used as a concert space. Keller poses in a geranium patch at the Alcazaba. MUSIC IS  as much a part of Malaga as the ancient walls of the fortresses, its love of nature and affection for the cafe life. Guitarists play for tips -- brilliant musicians, who could be on concert stages. Buskers abound around the museums and public places, and one can sip a sangria while listening to first-rate musicians. A busker plays Andalusian music on his guitar. Gifted street musicians abound on the streets of Malaga. We dined on shellfish and anchovies while listening to Bach chaconnes. Malaga is a shopper's delight.  Here, Keller finds his favorite N/A beer, while in the next aisle, Cookie shops for olives. Within walking distance are lovely cafes and bars, all beautifully flower bedecked.  Nature loving Malaguenos revel in the outdoors and even in November, we found them enjoying coffee, lunch and cocktails -- even dinner on the warmer nights -- al fresco, eager to share recommendations. Keller shops for wine for Cookie and non-alcohol beer in a Malaga store The attractive southern European port played host to the Phoenicians who positioned themselves on the side of the mount of Gibralfaro, from which our elegant and welcoming Parador takes its name. Moors built their fortress Alcazaba upon the remains of Phoenician digs, constructing a grand palace with gardens, pools and running water over a period spanning the 11th to 13th Centuries when Muslim governors and royals called Malaga home. Cookie enjoys a moment with Pablo Picasso in Merced Square near the home, in the background, where he was born and raised.  MUSEUMS WERE  a big part of our draw to this picturesque city. From Chagall paintings at the Russian Museum, to the beautiful primary-colored "cube" called Pompidou Center with its 20th and 21st Century works. Malaga boasts museums devoted to saints, bullfighting, flamenco and wine, and airplanes, so we could easily have spent another week.  The city's automobile museum is one of the finest in the world, a sleek and engaging blend of cars and fashion. Malaga has more than two dozen museums to nourish the curious soul. WE SOAKED  up splendid Chagalls at the Russian Museum and enjoyed the fine Picasso Museum as well as a fascinating illustrated history of his life with drawings, letters, commentary and even his favorite cape in the "Natal" museum in which he was born. Outside in the Plaza Merced, we even sat with the master. He is memorialized in a handsome lifesize bronze, sketchbook and pencil in hand, patina on his head where thousands have rubbed it. We rode in a horse drawn carriage, noticing carriage, driver and steed meticulously groomed and cared for. We climbed a pretty walkway to the Alcazaba we had admired for days, delighting in this thousand-plus year old marvel of art and architecture. We recommend the Hop On, Hop Off bus pass, a bargain way to navigate the city. So much did we enjoy the two loops that we made two forays, enjoying a well written commentary. MALAGA'S  PARKS  and boulevards are second to none. Its tourist bureau ranks among the best we've visited, with dozens of helpful maps, brochures and cheerful staff. A perfect holiday, our Malaga week. http://www.malagaturismo.com/ A charming play about love gets standing ovations at La Jolla Playhouse. "Freaky Friday" features a tender story,  fabulous music and terrific acting. UP NEXT: Do something special for Valentine's Day. Ideas to please you beloved, and a range of options for every budget. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, performance, nature family and more. Cruising New York's famous harbor may not be in your budget -- but perhaps a dinner cruise in a closer town is. Be imaginative this Valentine's Day. Ready for your next adventure? Discover more travel guides, tips, and hidden gems on WhereIsCookie.com

Glacier Park's beauty reflects millions of years of changing ancient rock formations. Here, summer meets winter as canoes of the warmer season's activities sit idle with early winter snows. Snow has already come to Glacier National Park in northern Montana but melts quickly on warm days. "Today, for the first time in my life, I have seen Glacier Park. Perhaps I can best express to you my thrill and delight by saying that I wish every American, old and young, could have been with me today. The great mountains, the glaciers, the lakes and the trees make me long to stay here...'' --Franklin D. Roosevelt, in August of 1934, delivering a Presidential radio address from Two Medicine Chalet in Glacier National Park Our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, have visited five national parks, here Glacier. BIG SKY COUNTRY: GLACIER PARK'S BEAUTY SHINES EACH SEASON, ALL YEAR LONG STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Native Californian Keller looks forward to each Glacier visit. GLACIER PARK'S wonders cannot be experienced in a single day -- or even three -- which is what we had. That's longer than FDR had 80 years ago, when he toured and park in a brief day and gave a stirring radio address about Glacier's wonders. Still, if you only have a couple days, the park can be savored sufficiently to encourage an encore visit. Many of us native Montanans visit multiple times, even annually. Trees, critters, birds and the majestic glaciers that give the park its name are but a few of the enticements. They impressed FDR then as they do us today. This reflection near East Glacier hints at the wondrous beauty the park offers. TOSS IN AN ambling silverback grizzly, which we watched for 90 minutes, and it's hard to beat Glacier Park in autumn. Grizzly bears are battening down the hatches and climbing into their caves this month, so we felt lucky to spy one and follow him for over an hour, near East Glacier, as he munched on grubs and berries and fattened up for the long winter's nap. The grizzly has been around Glacier for as long as people have been, at least 10,000 years. The native people were the first, and they'd been there thousands of years before European explorers showed up in the late 1800s in search of beaver. Blackfeet inhabited the eastern part of today's park, and Flathead, Salish and Kootenai the western regions. The "westerners" crossed the mountains in search of vast buffalo herds on eastern plains. A close-up of algae, a lovely mosaic on rock where recent snows had melted. THE NATIVE people probably came for the same reasons today's tourists do: rugged peaks, clear waters, breathtaking glacial-carved valleys. The landscape produces both desired resources and inspiration to those who love nature's beauty. Following the European pelt hunters, miners came, then settlers. By 1891, the Great Northern Railway was completed and hundreds came to northwest Montana. Small towns developed, west of Marias Pass, then hotels and chalets, many of them historic. Photographer Rick Cosgriffe has a field day in Glacier. The world renowned Going to the Sun Road was completed in 1932 and remains a historic accomplishment. BUT LOOK back farther than the 1930s! Look back millions of years because the mountains we now admire in Glacier National Park began forming 170 million years ago. Ancient rocks forced themselves eastward up and over much younger rock strata. The Lewis Overthrust rocks are considered to have some of the finest fossilized examples of extremely early life found anywhere on Earth! Sadly, the glaciers are retreating. The park has done a good job of telling this tale in diagrams and hand-outs. The dramatic U-shaped valleys, moraines and lakes are changing with global warming. Of the 150 glaciers which existed in the park in the mid-19th century, only 25 active glaciers remain! We may see all the glaciers disappear by 2020 if the current climate patterns persist. The range of stars featured in the title role of "Annie Get Your Gun" includes Reba McIntyre. COMING UP: She had to be hip, happy, talented and versatile. The actors who played the title role in "Annie Get Your Gun" include a huge range -- from the famous Ethel Merman, to Betty Hutton, Reba McIntyre and Bernadette Peters. The title character of our historical novel, "Lilian's Last Dance," was inspired by was inspired by an interview with the late director and producer Josh Logan, who talked to Christene Meyers in 1986 on a Atlantic crossing on Queen Elizabeth II. Logan directed "Annie Get Your Gun" on Broadway and their conversations about theater and creating memorable characters helped plant the seeds for a novel -- and, maybe some day, a Broadway musical. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for travel and entertainment tips at: www.whereiscookie.com

Vintage autos from an impressive, world-class private collection, are wowing visitors in Malaga's auto museum. Cookie under-dressed - finds herself in a wondrous collage of color. Luxury meets art and fashion in Malaga's unique car and gown display. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER At the Malaga Automobile museum PICTURE YOURSELF in a sleek Bugatti or elegant Bentley, motoring to the opera or an exclusive cocktail party. Each of 10-plus auto exhibit areas is accented by vintage clothing, accessories, artwork and descriptions of the era in this artful museum. You must have the proper attire -- something elegant to match your fashionable transport. No worries if you were alive in the gilded era -- when autos were works of art, money no object, and wealthy men and women dressed to the nines. We spent a delightful afternoon in the museum-friendly city of Malaga, Spain, where one of its latest jewels is the fantastic Museu Automovilistico. Bruce Keller takes a close-up look and pictures himself behind the wheel - vrooooom, vroooooom, vroooooooom. Housed in a stately historic building, an old tobacco factory, the museum opened in 2010, drawing raves and shrieks of delight from both auto buffs and fans of fashion. THE MUSEUM  houses the private collection of Portuguese car fanatic, collector and investor Joao Magalhaes. His impressive collection is valued at over 25 million euros, and is one of the most important vintage car collections in the world. The museum houses 80 vintage and modern cars, artistically arranged with fashionable gowns and unusual travel memorabilia from the Roaring Twenties, on into the 1930s, '40s and '50s. Finery and furbelows, flouncy, sleek, ornate and fun, are beautifully displayed at the museum. An elderly fellow tourist enjoying the museum during our visit remarked that the first car in the exhibition is so old it looks more like a horse-drawn carriage --  minus the horse.  My husband pointed out its tiny motor, which put her into a reverie, remembering travel in her grandparents' car decades ago.  WE FELT definitely under-dressed, a bit like misappropriated extras in "The Great Gatsby" as we wandered through nearly a dozen breathtaking displays. Each one artfully takes up a theme and an era -- Belle Epoque, Art Deco Thirties, Dolce Vita Fifties, English Tradition, etc.   The variety of splendid attire would be the envy of any theater's costume shop -- from vintage apparel of our great-grandparents' youth, to more contemporary and timeless clothing. The cars follow suit -- from that early "horseless carriage" to an "alternative energies" exhibit with a space-age solar-powered model.  While it is attractive it is not nearly as exotic, as the custom Rolls-Royce with its beautifully festooned crystals. Antique car and matching gown at the Malaga auto Museum Each display area showcases autos, along with artifacts, art and finery. In the Malaga Automobile Museum WE ADMIRED  flashy cars with flames painted along the sides and powerful sound systems. We wandered by gorgeous autos owned by stars, royalty and the rich and famous -- Bugatti, Auburn, Bentley, Jaguar, Ferrari and Mercedes. We enjoyed bling on the costumes and bling on the cars -- lots of gold and plenty of sparkle, including  a ritzy black Rolls-Royce customized with Swarovski crystals.  The beautifully curated auto and fashion museum also boasts vintage posters and artifacts, nicely preserved -- polished collectibles from a bygone age. IN MUSEUM- loving Spain, Malaga is not the largest city.  But it may have the most impressive variety of world-class museums.  We visited about half of the bounty, including a first rate art museum which focuses on Andalucian art – the Museo Carmen Thyssen. Space age vehicles are also on view, with modern clothing and space wear. When we encore our  Malaga trip we'll visit the highly regarded Wine Museum, where one can learn about Malaga’s own vintages. Besides the Malaga Automobile Museum, another impressive private collection resides in Malaga's Glass and Crystal Museum, which also features antique furniture and paintings, all arranged by period. Contemporary art lovers will enjoy Malaga's CAC (Centro de Arte Contemporaneo), Andalucia’s foremost cutting-edge space. NEXT UP : And we'll soon be giving a nod to Piccaso, native son, who is immortalized in both a beautiful museum and in his birth home. And soon we're enjoying close-up views of the beautiful grey whale. during migration in California The magnificent grey whales are migrating now and we've been watching them with wonder, off the southern California coast.  More than 20,000 of the graceful creatures pass by our  San Diego base, on a 10,000 mile journey from Alaska to the warm waters of  Baja, Mexico. There they'll give birth and then make the return trip. We're on the scene to share the wonder, so close we can see the barnacles and baleen with which they filter food. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us each weekend for a novel twist on the arts, nature and travel.

Friends from the UK, John and Sue Speight, visited Cookie and Keller in Montana, where we took them exploring. We met on a Southeast Asia cruise from Hong Kong to Singapore, shared two weeks on the road and determined to keep in touch.  They hope to return to the U.S. and we will visit them soon in their Yorkshire, England, home. Virginia Mock and Brent Morgan visited us in  Montana after we spent two weeks together in the Caribbean.  We met at a musical theater trivia contest and took them to Tippet Rise Art Center.  FROM ISRAEL TO ENGLAND, NEW ZEALAND TO NORWAY, TRAVEL CONNECTS US WITH FRIENDS AROUND THE WORLD STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OUR HAPPIEST  times are when we're traveling, partly because of the newness and enrichment it brings, meeting like-minded people along the way. Bob and Sue Hulbert, left, traveled to Montana and we often visit them in Los Angeles.  Bob and Keller explored Saudi Arabia together. We have also traveled together in San Francisco.  Here we enjoy Disney Music Center. Friends. Global, curious, liberal thinking people we've met exploring Australia and New Zealand, the Middle East, the Far East, Europe, the United Kingdom and the Americas -- U.S., Canada, Brazil, Peru. Barbie and Tom Davidson, right, of New Zealand, joined us on Times Square in New York City for Broadway shows. We met in a chorus on a trans-Atlantic cruise. Cookie was pianist and Barbie conductor. WE HAVE  a large, loving, fun-seeking circle of international friends and we've met them all on our world travels. They contribute richly to our lives, enhancing our perspective on the world, educating us in new ways, providing insight into their cultures and thought processes, priorities, family life, ideas and goals. When we lecture about travel, and share our stories and photographs, we remember with fondness meeting people with whom we've stayed in touch. Carlos Montero of Ecuador, met Keller on a scuba dive 45 years ago. Fred Fisher, right, shares our love of east Africa. Together for paella dinner. When we say, "You must come visit" we mean it. And if our new road-tripping friends invite us, we probably will do so, as we've done with friends in Norway, Israel, Australia and elsewhere. Jerusalem journey, Israel highlight WE'VE MET  many wonderful couples on trans-Atlantic cruises:  Yosh and Shula from Tel Aviv, Ronna and Larry from Florida, Michael and Doc from Washington, D.C., Virginia and Brent from Arkansas, Lawrence and Patrick from Sydney, Australia, Nam and Freida from Melbourne, Bev and Sidway from Denver, while exploring the Amazon, Barbie and Tom from New Zealand, John and Sue from England. Friends through cruising, touring and trivia contests are planning a reunion.  And so many others. Our Yorkshire pals visited us last summer for a memorable trip through Montana's prettiest places, with a dip into Yellowstone National Park, Cody, Wyo., and Red Lodge. We met on a Southeast Asia cruise from Hong Kong to Singapore, took a sidetrip to Bangkok and prowled the hiking and bike paths of Vietnam together. Yosh Wichman and Bruce Keller at the Dead Sea. Shula and Yosh hosted us to a fabulous Israel tour. When we heard during dinner that Montana was on their bucket list, we invited them. During their visit, they extended an invitation to Yorkshire, and we'll soon be with them again enjoying the cathedrals, history and landscape of their beautiful corner of the world. Cookie and Shula Romero Wichman of Tel Aviv enjoy dinner in Las Vegas. Table mates on our cruise ship, the Speights, invited us to tour Bangkok with them, here in a tuk-tuk to the Grand Palace.  OUR ISRAELI  friends, Yosh and Shula Wichman, were our trivia buddies and fans of my piano music on a cruise through the Canary Islands with an Atlantic crossing.  We met on a jeep tour of the craters of Tenerife, along with another adventuresome couple, Ronna and Larry Schultz.  We've kept in touch and cruised and vacationed again with these friends, meeting up in Florida, the south of France and Las Vegas. All these friends are world travelers.  Our mutual spirit of adventure, love of language, history the arts and architecture fuel our curiosity.  We all share a hope for world peace and these similarities fuel our desire for travel. Yosh and Shula met our ship a couple years ago in Haifa and toured us around the wonderful country, a land I've visited multiple times. It was a magnificent two-day tour, from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea. TAKE A CHANCE  on new friendship -- join a table, say hello to the folks across the aisle, ask if there's room for you at the trivia table. It could be the beginning of an enriching new experience. Venice is captured from the rooftop of the Hilton Molino Stucky Hotel. UP NEXT :  Venice is one of the world's most visited, photographed and written about cities.  Come with us to explore the palaces, squares, cafes and museums, all of which make Venice so memorable and inviting. Take time to visit the outer "lagoon islands" while you're there, or if you're planning a trip for later this summer. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch a new post each week on travel, the arts, nature and family at whereiscookie.com

A hike above Malta's Blue Grotto offered an opportunity for a picnic and lovely afternoon for Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers. They travel with joy in each new surrounding. PLAN BUT BE FLEXIBLE, EMBRACE OPPORTUNITY, ROLL WITH THE PUNCHES, LEARN, MAKE NEW FRIENDS    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Plan, but be open to surprise and a spontaneous event. In Tokyo we borrowed umbrellas at a shrine to stroll the gardens in light rain. “I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list." I'M NOT CERTAIN  who first uttered this delightful observation, but it applies to me and millions of others who find joy in travel. We want to see everything there is to see in this wide, wonderful world. The blue cave of Kastellorizo is one of the stunning deep caves of the Greek Isles, a famous attraction. Don't miss the opportunity to tour. So in hopes of helping fellow travelers, we devised "Travel's Ten Commandments."  We hope it will enhance your travels, give you ideas and inspire you to create your own travel code.  You can adapt it to fit your own lifestyle and desires. So here goes: 1. TRAVEL LIGHTLY . Remember, the best souvenir is a good memory, or two or three. Make it your goal to have stories to tell, not junk to show. This doesn't mean you can't pick up a beautiful painting, antique or something on the road that moves you and has meaning. Through the years, we've purchased tile in Venice, a chandelier in Rome, silk in Kyoto, scarves in Portofino and St. Petersburg and an onyx table in Mexico City.  That took seven weeks to reach us -- long after the credit card charge went through.  But it arrived as promised in perfect condition, a fabulous memory of a long-ago trip to a city we love with its world class archeological museum and so much more. Be selective in your purchases. Send things back if they're heavy. Don't weigh down your suitcase. Cookie delights in an espresso machine in her hotel room in Lisbon . 2. TRAVEL EXPECTANTLY. We believe each adventure is a learning experience. Try a new tour outfit, maybe a small one starting up. That's how we found CBM tours (Cant' Be Missed.) Wonderful find. Remember, sometimes things will go south.  Roll with it. Adapt. We've been in hotel rooms where we struggled to turn the lights on.  Sometimes, room lights work only when prompted by the room key which must remain in the wall. We've had coffee machines that call for contemplation; there isn't always a directional guide. Usually with a little patience (not my strong suit) and Keller's engineering expertise, we figure it out.  The espresso machine in Lisbon was a favorite gadget. Tiny espresso balls go into a press -- better than Starbuck's!   Gratitude is important on the road. We tipped this lovely waitress at La Boella in Tarragona, Spain. She surprised Keller with birthday cake.   3. TRAVEL HOPEFULLY,   with joy and a sense of fun. Try new foods, take a hike to woods you've never seen.  Awaken each day with anticipation.  What a happy sensation to open your eyes in a new room, new town, with a new language, birds, cafes, parks, museums, churches to explore. We like to take a walk after we check in our hotel -- though the temptation is to take a nap. Get with the new time zone. If your bags don't make it with you, fill out the forms and be patient. Remember that happiness is a way of travel, a lifestyle.  The destination is second banana.  4. TRAVEL HUMBLY . Be understated (a challenge for me). Cultivate your listening skills. Don't compare your new surroundings to what you're accustomed to. Don't expect the same ways of doing things -- you're traveling to learn.     Cookie and Keller await a train change in Italy. 5. TRAVEL COURTEOUSLY. As you listen and learn, you'll find new ways of doing things.  Be thankful for the store clerk who recommends a tiny neighborhood restaurant down the alley. Thank your hotel maid for the extra coffee.  Tip when it seems right -- a few Euros for the bellman who delivers your bags.  A small tip is thoughtful, good insurance for the porter who brings you ice. He'll do it each day if you start out right.   6. TRAVEL GRATEFULLY and with a generous heart. Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer so travel with appreciation for everyone who helps you -- and you'll find your good will is unfailingly returned.  Sample local fruits from the stand -- wash first. Here, we bought lunch fixings for a picnic on the Amalfi coast near Naples.   This cheerful lady in Vietnam became a friend as we spent time with her at her family's farm. 7. TRAVEL WITH AN OPEN MIND . Experiment. An elderly fellow traveler -- 85 and still on the road -- says, "The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page." If a server suggests a dish you have never tried, give it a go. Once in a village in South Africa, we asked the waiter to surprise us. He served the house specialty: charred goat's head. We've sampled roasted grasshoppers in Thailand, fried tarantulas in Cambodia, calf's brains in Peru, haggis in Scotland (yes, it's spiced heart, liver and lungs served in stomach lining) and witchetty grubs under the shadow of Ayers Rock in central Australia. The meat from this wood-eating larvae is rich in protein. My Aussie mates assured me it is a nutritious snack when tramping through the bush. I recommend grub snacks only after a couple pints of Foster's ale.  Swallow whole. In the Canary Islands, the chef, behind Keller and Cookie, offered a holiday meal and "Wise Men" hats on Christmas Day in Gran Canaria. Cookie and our brilliant Rome guide, Lucilla, who has become a dear friend through the year s. 8. TRAVEL WITH CURIOSITY. Be flexible and curious about your new place. Soak it all up. Your job fills your pocket, but travel fills your soul.  We love tours that include a stop in a family farm or village where we actually can meet the people. In Vietnam, we spent a day with a family and still correspond with the three-generation household.   9. TRAVEL WITH IMAGINATION .  Enthusiasm and optimism are essential elements in any  successful trip. My grandmother Olive encouraged me to live the life I've dreamed of, to find the good in all people and places. The Dalai Lama advised, "Once a year, go some place you've never been before." Cookie and Keller swam with the manta rays in Bonaire. 10. TRAVEL FEARLESSLY . Now's the time to banish worry. Leave your shy side and timidity at home.  Don't flash big wads of cash around and watch where you keep your Euros (use a money belt or your shoe for large bills and try to limit carry cash and use credit cards.) I've been mugged three times in 57 years abroad. Only the first was successful when the bandits sliced my purse off my arm and I needed stitches. The other two times, I witnessed would-be robbers' hands going for my husband's wallet and yelled for police. The culprits dashed away both times.   Keller in front of Notre Dame in Paris. Yes, we still travel. But we don't open a map on a busy street corner.  We play it savvy, but with worldwide crime on the rise, we try to exercise caution but not fear. DON'T RETURN home lamenting that you didn't swim with the manta rays or buy the souvenir spoon or shot glass for a friend who collects them.   Should you take the trip?  Can you afford it? Never be so busy making a living that you forget to make a life. Think of the stories and memories you'll bring back.  And remember, when in doubt, Paris is always a good idea.  More on a spirited, small tour company: www.cantbemissedtours.com   Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers on "When and If." UP NEXT :  We're on the road and headed to Key West, Florida, for a relaxing sailing trip aboard a splendid and artful yacht designed by Gen. George Patton. The World War II hero dreamed of sailing the world after his noble efforts during the war. His exquisite creation, the yacht "When and If," gave him happy hours on the waters and now is berthed in Key West where it takes visitors on a magical sail off the shores of this lovely Florida port town. Meanwhile, remember to explore, earn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, art, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

The Barrister Bed and Breakfast in Helena offers a warm, history filled stay in a stately mansion near the cathedral. BROTHER AND SISTER ACT MAKE THE BARRISTER B&B A HAPPY, HISTORIC HIT Beverages are available in the dining room, which sports a portrait of young Queen Elizabeth II. The Barrister takes its name from its owner's law career. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Special touches and an artful eye mark each Barrister guest room. THE BARRISTER B&B  is the kind of place you'd send your best hip friend or your beloved and proper dowager aunt.  Both would have a delightful stay. The Barrister is the B&B world's equivalent of "black tie and blue jeans." Both are appropriate. You may arrive in formal attire or casual wear, dressed for a wedding or a hike. Either way, you'll feel instantly at home. The Captain's Quarters sports a nautical motif. The 1874 mansion, across from the imposing St. Helena Cathedral, was once the home of the Catholic priest. Owner and proprietor Nick Jacques, Helena native and fifth generation Montanan, remembers being called from the cathedral to the priest's digs across the street. There in the now B&B, young Jacques was chastised for a minor infraction occurred during his altar boy duties. FAST FORWARD  a few decades: Jacques now holds court before an international clientele of visitors to the Barrister B&B, where years ago he was reprimanded. Native San Diegan and lifelong sailor Keller enjoyed staying in the Captain's digs. A retired criminal defense attorney, Nick received his law credentials at University of Montana then returned to Helena to form his successful but taxing practice.  An auto accident changed the course of his career.  He was hit as he towed his boat from a nearby landing, inspiring the classic "wake-up call." He fully recovered from his injuries  but retired to follow his dream of operating a B&B.  That was nearly 20 years ago. Charmed by a B&B he visited on his favorite holiday island, Maui, Jacques said "I just had a deep feeling that I could do this and would be fairly good at it." THE WORD  "fairly" is  an understatement. From the moment one arrives at the Barrister -- named, of course, because "barrister" is Brit speak for attorney -- one feels relaxed, pampered and completely comfortable. Helena's Cathedral of St. Helena is across the street from the B&B. Tours of the cathedral or state capital make a pleasant diversion. Nick's sister, Liane Jacques, is the B&B's innkeeper.  She left Helena to receive her degree at Notre Dame and wears multiple hats as interior decorator, reservations and events manager, copy writer and designer, director of housekeeping, chef and "elf," flitting quietly from room to room and event to event, organizing and accenting everything with her artful touches. Cocktails are served nightly on the Barrister's relaxing porch. "I couldn't do this at this level without Liane," says her proud brother, whose travel passion takes him from the operation from time to time.  Despite retiring his "barrister" shingle and leaving the law profession, Nick still serves.  But rather than defending the downtrodden and hapless, he's entertaining appreciative travelers. Cookie was invited to play the parlor's beautiful grand piano. "Now, I have nothing but happy endings," Nick said, sharing his considerable knowledge of Helena with guests at the Barrister's antique dining table. "I connect with people each day." THE BARRISTER'S guest books -- one in each of the handsome rooms -- contain enthusiastic thank-yous from contented visitors, including newlyweds, bird watchers, outdoor lovers and politicians. Kudos and compliments come to the Barrister from many U.S. states and far corners of the world.  "Such an elegant place," "A most relaxing and hospitable time," "Gracious hospitality at every turn," "Beautiful environment" and "Fabulous breakfast" are praises sung by visitors. Each room is decorated by the brother and sister, who collaborated to honor a family member in photos and decor in each suite. The place is a treasure trove of history lovingly preserved and elegantly shared. An antique bar attracts conversation in the kitchen, framed by paintings. One room, The Morning Room, was part of the priest's suite during the years the place was owned by the Diocese.  It is now a cheerful and intimate welcome to Helena and the Victorian mansion.  Six fireplaces adorn the rooms and high ceilings and carved staircases enhance the allure.  Stained glass windows are also part of the charm, as is a grand piano which has been played by many of Helena's visiting VIP musicians.  I had the pleasure of playing for our small group -- visitors from several states -- in town for a wedding reception hosted at the Barrister. (Special catered events are a Barrister specialty!) An antique banister found in the attic now graces the Barrister's stairs.  GUESTS ENJOY  the home as if it were their own, making themselves comfortable in the parlor, formal dining room, den, library or an enclosed sun porch, where we enjoyed take-out Italian food one night.  We'd been treated to an olive tapenade and wine before dinner, with Liane joining us for cocktails and stories.  And because we visited on a Saturday, we had the pleasure of hearing the bells of St. Helena Cathedral ring out Sunday morning while we enjoyed a beautifully served breakfast-brunch of quiche, bacon, fresh fruit salad and homemade breads.   The Barrister's pretty rooms boast family heirlooms  -- beds, lamps, divans, chairs, a claw's foot bath, and ornate tables -- making them a big draw for both antique aficionados and history buffs.  Our "Captain's Quarters" was decked out in nautical lore, and the honeymooning couple across the hall from us had a boutique-inspired room with floral designs Helena's pretty parks, squares and historic buildings await near the Barrister. and baroque appointments. Liane's sharp eye is courtesy of her career as an interior designer with years of high-end projects in southern California, Oregon and elsewhere. When her brother suggested a partnership, she returned to Helena four years ago to become an integral component of the enterprise. PROXIMITY  to Helena's sights is a big plus for the historic building, and Helena's lively cultural scene is worth a few days' visit.  There's the Myrna Loy Arts Center, named after the famed actress born in Helena; the Archie Bray Foundation, known for stimulating ceramics; the Holter Museum of Art, with world class exhibits; and day trips to mining towns, rodeo towns, mineral baths,. trout fishing havens and beautiful drives -- just for sight-seeing. Canyon Ferry Lake is known nationally for its water sports, boating services and campgrounds. WE STOPPED  at Gates of the Mountains along the Missouri, and hope to return when the boat tour season is back. Freezeout Lake and birding beckon on a lovely fall day, next at whereiscookie. This time of year, as the snowbirds leave the northern Rockies, the Barrister hosts many Canadian visitors.  Helena is a perfect day's drive from Calgary. We hope to encore our perfect stay, to enjoy another musical session with our music buff hosts! 406 443-7330 for reservations. COMING UP:  We'd never been to Fairfield, Montana, but we'll be back.  Beautiful scenery, nice people, a couple fun restaurants, a little gambling and Freezeout Lake, for a bounty of birds to watch. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers relax on a Thanksgiving Day in southern Spain.   TREASURE EACH DAY, APPRECIATE YOUR  BLESSINGS, COOK & DINE OUT,    & REMEMBER: TEMPUS FUGIT Cookie and Keller tried something new last Thanksgiving, when they took to a dune buggy on the sands near Cabo San Lucas, giving thanks for travel. Cactus ATV Tours offers a fun time on the sand. BE THANKFUL, SHAKE UP YOUR ROUTINE, MAKE A TURKEY WIGGLE, JUMP ON A DUNE BUGGY! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Last Thanksgiving, we were in the Canary Islands for a Thanksgiving fruit drink here. A favorite Thanksgiving meal for us on the road is lamb skewers and a Greek salad, this one in Santorini. WE GIVE THANKS  this week for our family and friends, for decent health, and being double-vaxxed and triple-boosted.  We are traveling the world again after a rough run with the virus. As we look around the table -- counting empty chairs -- we realize how fleeting and precious life is. We vow to make the most of each day, to embrace the world with kindness and compassion, to help others when we can, to be gentle with ourselves. For sometimes, we're our own harshest critics. WE VOW TO  appreciate and share our many blessings -- which we often take for granted.  Warm clothing as winter approaches, beautiful stores in which to shop, the means to buy whatever we want.  We're grateful for the pleasure of concerts and theater.  The fun of cooking a meal together, or enjoying a dinner out. These are joys and advantages we don't take lightly. The delight in art,  the pleasure in sharing a meal are two of humanity's most basic and rewarding rituals. SO ENJOY  the shopping, preparation and serving of the meal -- whether in your own home, or with friends and family. Do something new to spread the thanks this holiday. Consider that sharing our bounty of food can be an important part of the holiday. Volunteer to help feed the homeless.  Or if you have a single neighbor or friend who might be spending the day alone, make a plate for him or her or invite the person over. You'll be amazed at how much it means. When you make dinner, consider incorporating a favorite family recipe handed down to you.  That ties the meal in with the memories. HERE, BY  special request, is my dear creative Gran Nystul's famous Turkey Wiggle recipe: Gran's Thanksgiving turkey was chosen to be large enough for her tasty "Turkey Wiggle." Turkey wiggle: made of the leftover turkey, rice or noodles, pepper and tomatoes and black olives. Gran Nystul's Weekend Turkey Wiggle delighted family and neighbors GRAN NYSTUL'S WEEKEND TURKEY WIGGLE 2 lbs (4 cups) leftover turkey meat, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 c turkey or chicken stock 1 l/2 c uncooked white, brown or wild rice or 3 cups uncooked noodles 1 can (14 oz) chopped tomatoes or three fresh ones, diced 2 medium chopped onions (optional two cloves of diced garlic)  1 green or red pepper, chopped 1 c green olives and 1 c black olives, chopped ¼ c pimentos, chopped 8 oz mushrooms, sliced and sautéed in butter or olive oil (if using canned, drain juice but save to moisten casserole) 16 oz package frozen peas, mixed veggies, peas or corn  1 can of mushroom soup or cup or so of leftover turkey gravy (Gran improvised; use what you have, be creative. That's the beauty of "wiggle.")  PREHEAT  oven to 350 degrees. Combine ingredients in large saucepan, bring to brief boil. Transfer to buttered casserole, cover with foil,  bake 30-35 minutes until liquid is absorbed but casserole is still moist. Top with croutons or crumbled leftover stuffing. Sprinkle with grated or shaker cheese-- gouda, gruyere, parmesan, sharp cheddar are fine. Delicious with a spoonful of chutney, salsa or cranberry relish. BTW , historians tell us the turkey feast probably did not derive from the Pilgrims who may or may not have eaten the bird for their "Thanksgiving." They probably ate venison, and they'd have used their fingers. Gran would not have approved of that! Casa Mila -- La Pedrera -- is a monumental, magical place with inspiration from Gaudi's visit to Mount Monserrat. NEXT STORIES UP:  We're off to Las Vegas for holiday shows, then on to Barcelona. Put these two contrasting and engaging cities on your bucket list. We love Sin City, and Spain's most lively town. Vegas is the brainchild of Bugsy Seigel and Antoni Gaudi was the architectural genius who left his mark on Barcelona. So come to the Vegas Strip then Gaudi's showy Casa Mila and Casa Batllo. We feature the Vegas Bugsy couldn't have imagined and the Barcelona Gaudi created. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on entertainment, travel, the arts & more. Get yourself in the holiday spirit at "Rouge," an exciting new show in Las  Vegas, with flashy lights, sexy dancers, gorgeous bodies, festive costumes.

Queen Elizabeth's pool is spacious and inviting, but understated in its artful touches.  A stunning marquetry panel invites inspection as one enters Cunard' Queen Elizabeth. OLD WORLD ELEGANCE LIVES ON IN CUNARD'S THIRD 'ELIZABETH' STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Glittering chandeliers, beautiful wood,marble and tapestries adorn Queen Elizabeth's ballroom.   TO BUY 'LILIAN'S LAST DANCE' THE NOVEL CLICK HERE W HEN THE QE2 retired,  I was one sad girl.  I'd crossed the Atlantic eight times on her, cruised the Norwegian fjords on her, interviewed celebrities on her.  I have cherished, romantic memories of dancing in her hallowed ballroom with both of my late husbands.  The latest Queen Elizabeth is the third to bear the royal name -- christened by Her Majesty The Queen in October of 2010. We recently stepped aboard her to revive old memories and create new ones. Though Cunard considers her Queen Mary its flag ship and the closest in design to the old-fashioned liners, Queen Elizabeth bears many of the familiar "liner" touches. From its world class floating library (more than 6,000 books from which to choose), to her legendary "Queen's Grill" service, to elegant commissioned artwork and private boxes in the theater, the Queen offers contemporary luxury with a nod to the past for its 2,000-plus passengers. Artist Arnold Schwartzman poses by one of two beautiful art deco murals he created in the grand lobby of the Queen Elizabeth. "UNDERSTATEMENT"  best describes the major difference between other large ships and Queen Elizabeth.  You won't see glitz, flash and color. You will see dark polished wood, muted light, chandeliers, marble, classy artwork reminiscent of the Orient Express rail days, paintings and panels commissioned by Cunard using award winning artists. OLD-FASHIONED  glamour is the byword on QE. Art Deco inspired design invites comparison to the original Cunard queens -- Elizabeth and Mary, the first of which perished in a fire, the latter much revered and often visited in Long Beach. QM welcomed her "niece"  earlier this month, the reason for our invitation to tour Queen Elizabeth. WITH QUEEN ELIZABETH 2  docked in Dubai now -- future unknown -- and the original QE gone, I invoked the cruise muse on a recent tour of the third QE, known simply as Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth's lounges and quiet spaces recall long-ago liner travel. This "queenly" ship in 2015 recalls cruising of 75 years ago, when travelers packed steamer trunks and dressed in black tie for dinner, strolling the promenade deck with a pause for sherry or a cognac. There's a "prom" on Queen Elizabeth, and old-fashioned deck chairs with blankets nearby, to take the chill off a bracing Atlantic crossing. MOST  of today's cruise ships -- emphasis of "cruise" -- are not intended to be "liners,"  although the distinction has blurred. Click the link below to: Jump to Cookie on theater, books and the arts at: Lilianslastdance.com Queen Mary's amiable Commodore Everette Hoard explained that grand liners were built for speed, durability and all-weather crossings, while today's cruise ships make specific circuits of "vacation" spots, often starting and finishing in the same location. Cunard's three queens still cross the Atlantic regularly, as did their ancestors. Queen Elizabeth's captain posed aboard Queen Mary. His ship is behind him and his colleague. Like the liners of old, today's Cunard queens accentuate elegance with the class and dignity of yore. You'll find harp music rather than a rollicking disco, and string quartets in the subdued public areas, not high-tech nightclubs catering to all-night partying. No poolside belly-flop contests, but a romantic dinner under a chandelier with five-star service from a white-gloved waiter. IF YOU  don't care to don black tie, you can dine in one of the casual restaurants, but our Cunard tour guide emphasized that Elizabeth's passengers want glamour and dress-up. They like ballroom dancing, lawn bowls and afternoon tea, thank you. A bronze of Queen Elizabeth is among memorabilia on QE. Although Cunard is American-owned, you'll feel close to the United Kingdom as you order your hamper from Fortnum and Mason, stroll Harris Tweed for sale and enjoy a cocktail in the sunlit Garden Lounge inspired by the famous glass houses of London't Kew Gardens. ELEGANT MARBLE  -- cream and chocolate -- blends with polished wood in public spaces. Beauty awaits at every turn -- in intricate wooden marquetry and maritime themed paintings. Happily, Cunard is a seafaring packrat. The framed memorabilia delights: a Christmas card from Queen Elizabeth II in a glass case, a solid silver model of QE2 made by the famed London jeweller Asprey, the bell salvaged from the first Queen Elizabeth. The kakapo of New Zealand is up next. COMING UP : New Zealand's birds are a wondrous lot. From the gorgeous green kakapo, a flightless parrot, to the kotuku, a sleek white heron, we'll take you to both islands, from Milford Sound to the southern tip, for birds of a Kiwi feather. Visit us here at www.whereiscookie on Wednesdays for travel, cruising, adventure, and nature-driven trips. Check out www.lilianslastdance on weekends for the arts, with features on theater, books and our new novel, "Lilian's Last Dance." Remember always to explore, learn and live!

Morning sun lights up the port of Alexandria, Egypt.  -- Photo by Bruce Keller Just a note to let you know that our Middle East feature is available for viewing -- Cookie's story and Keller's fabulous photos.   Please enjoy (click the link below or copy and paste into your browser).  And please remember to sign up for our posts, which include our travels both internationally and locally with lots of good stuff on nature, theater, art, film and "Downton Abbey." The information is at: whereiscookie.com Sign up if you'd like to get our newsletters. It's briefly a bit cumbersome but a couple of quick steps secure your privacy! Coming soon:  communing with the migrating grey whales and San Diego's fertile theater scene and its Broadway connections. Here's the link on the Middle East newspaper feature: http://billingsgazette.com/lifestyles/leisure/visit-to-middle-east-finds-people-wanting-to-live-and/article_3f6c1690-1c70-588d-b676-f2f787117f01.html

Throughout Egypt, handsome and friendly children greeted American visitors who wonder if they are safe now. Friendship with brilliant guide, encounters with children, foster worry for their safety Adept as a guide and translator, Amr took the photographer and writer through Egypt, proudly sharing his country's wonders. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AS NEWS  of bloodshed in Cairo commands our attention this week, we wonder about our friend Amr. We met this talented, multi-lingual guide and translator last autumn during a memorable and magical trip to his native Egypt and the Middle East. We spent only a few days with him, but we became fast friends.  He won our affection and admiration with his diplomacy, talent and bravery. He sheperded us through lanes of daunting traffic -- including buses, cars and donkey carts -- from Alexandria up to Cairo, directing our faithful bus driver and working comfortably with our group of 20-some tourists, a security guard Cookie and Keller were safe with Amr; here they enjoy Giza's splendors. who accompanied us on our journey, and many museum, gallery, hotel and restaurant operators. AMR GUIDED us through mosques, where we carefully removed our shoes, and through ancient sites to view wonders, always offering thoughtful reflections on the contributions of his country's rich culture to the world. Events of the "Arab Spring" had only recently unfolded and Amr was recovering from injuries in the demonstrations in Tahrir Square. As we drove past a huge prison a half-mile off the highway, he noted that deposed president Hosni Mubarak was housed in that very jail. "So what do you think of Mohammed Morsi?" we asked. Although, he was in power, he had not yet been The marvelous Egyptian Museum has more than 120,000 relics of the pharaohs, and King Tutankhamun's tomb treasures. elected President. Amr paused, collected his thoughts and explained that he was not a fan of the now ousted president. "He will be more of the same," he said with fervor.  "We need change, idealism, someone to lead us to our new, free future and fulfillment of our potential." DURING OUR  time with him, chatting in the famed Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Amr expressed his idealism that Egypt become a true democracy, that all Egyptians would be treated as equal with no regard for color, gender, belief. Amr expressed depression and anxiety as the election loomed. What does he think now? AMR SPOKE  with affection of his wife, "an educated, contemporary woman," as we passed dozens of women in traditional head garb and veils. Not all Egyptian women wear full body coverings, or burkas. Amr is among the educated, young idealists involved in the original demonstration near Cairo's Tahrir Square. He is also a father of two youngsters.  He is reluctant to align himself with any group, to subscribe to either the Muslim Brotherhood or the old regime. He deplores violence. Extremism in any direction, he believes, is not a good option. Amr professed confusion about what the U.S. wants for Egypt, the "mixed signals" he feels we are sending. I would hope he would be sympathetic to America now, as we are faulted by all sides as the complex events unfold. Shopkeepers and vendors struggle in Cairo to make ends meet. FOR CERTAIN,  the recent military crackdown and bloodshed would disturb him. We wonder what his reaction is to President Obama's pleas for the government to back off. Surely he would commend Obama's condemnation of the murder of civilians. And he would remind us how difficult life has become for the average common man, trying to earn a living selling fruit juice or peppers. As Amr chatted with guides and shopkeepers, we saw a true work ethic, a yearning to make life better. One of many Cairo mosques. AMR KNOWS  transition will take time. He shook his head sadly as he described the decline of "civilized life" in his country.  It could not be denied, with the mounds of garbage and wrecked cars, the crush of people and signs of poverty everywhere. Still, the children smiled, were curious and spoke animated English to us. Time will tell Egypt's future. Hosni Mubarak was in power more than 30 years, and his philosophies were deeply imbedded. A transition to full democracy may take a decade or more. The discontent felt by Amr and many of his fellow Egyptians has to be acute -- even those who supported Morsi must be disappointed that he was not able to accomplish altruistic goals. We wonder if Amr is safe.  He was injured in the first rebellion two years ago.  His goals are shared by thousands of other young, educated Egyptians: The Nile River: thoroughfare for tourist, commerce and recreational vehicles. *That Egypt develop a democratic procedure for selecting leaders. *That citizens' rights under the law be respected and protected. *That social justice be upheld. Amr's criticism of the Brotherhood stems from his belief that now ousted President Morsi would not represent a departure from the corruption and repression of his predecessor. The recent violence is a reminder of the schisms in Egyptian society.  There is great distrust of the Brotherhood.  There are pro-Morsi supporters.  The military.  Police.  Secret service.  There will likely be backlashes after the protests.  Surely Amr and his friends thought the military would help them, turn things around, as they did when Mubarak was ousted. A whirling dervish entertains, on a Nile dinner cruise with guide Amr. Now, the hugely powerful military is responsible for hundreds of deaths. Thousands more are wounded. The instability is bad globally and has a hugely negative effect on tourism in the land of ancient wonders. How sad is the carnage near the great pyramids of Giza, and in the very square where we lunched with Amr. We all wonder: will there be another election?  Democracy seems to have been crushed.What will become of the Brotherhood and Al Quida, which seem to be enemies? Does this spell an end to the attempt for a free society?  What will the ramifications be in Syria? Where are the ideological commitments on which democracy is based? Animated discussion follows an accident on a busy Cairo street. What effect will the military's actions have to do on the country's embattled economy? EGYPTIANS  were beleaguered when we visited last fall, aware that the country's infrastructure was collapsing. Now they are mourning, burying their dead. Please the gods, may our smart, sweet, talented Amr, not be among the casualties. Flowers abloom in Montana . COMING SOON: W e return to Montana for flower power under the Big Sky. The Treasure State is abloom, in one of the lushest floral summers our reporter can recall. And this Saturday, we visit the San Diego concert venue of Humphreys By the Bay. Humphreys has it all: gorgeous oceanside setting, tremendous talent, wonderful sound and lights, a terrific bar. Already this summer, Humphreys has hosted superstars of every persuasion, from Lyle Lovett, Bill Cosby and Bill Maher, to Willie Nelson, Garrison Keillor, Joan Rivers and Cyndi Lauper.  It's not too late to take in Melissa Etheridge, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Diana Krall and others. More next week. Explore, learn and live, and check us out on Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

THREE MAJOR WORLD RELIGIONS LIVE MEANINGFUL LIVES IN HISTORIC ISRAELI CITY  Cookie takes a moment to meditate and give thanks for her return to a favorite city at the Western Wall, Jerusalem. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS The Dome of the Rock , sacred Muslim shrine, circa 685, offers gorgeous mosaics  and  is an Islamic architectural  monument. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NO CITY  on the planet makes such an emotional impact on so many people. Jerusalem, the proud capital of Israel, sits handsomely atop a plateau in the Judean Mountains between the Mediterranean and the Dead Sea. It has survived centuries of upheaval, invasion, plunder and celebration. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre figures prominently in the Easter week remembrances when thousands visit.  It remains one of the most beautiful, cohesive and oldest cities in the world, considered holy to the three major Abrahamic religions—Judaism, Christianity and Islam. WE WERE  struck by the beautiful light -- and the peaceful nature of the people.  Although it is a bustling, busy city, Jerusalem has an underlying feeling of reverence.  Within a mile, we visited the historic Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock and the Western Wall, all iconic, historic sites crucial to understanding the major world religions which share this diverse city and revere its sacred past. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre,   the site of Christ's tomb, is sacred to believers. Israel's eight million people live in an area a bit smaller than New Jersey.  About 840,000 people call Jerusalem home, with   Jews comprising about 61 per cent, Muslims about 35 per cent, Christians and other faiths the remaining four per cent. The spectacular Dome of the Rock against the Jerusalem skyline. Cookie lights a candle for departed loved ones in Jerusalem. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been preserved for centuries. EASTER TIME  in Jerusalem is a wondrous spectacle for all faiths. Many Christian rituals have roots in Jewish traditions. The celebration of the Jewish festival of Passover, for example, commemorates the exodus of Jews from captivity in Egypt.   Passover has been mixed with Easter for centuries.  The Hebrew word Pesach, originally meaning Passover, came to mean Easter as well. Holy Week and Easter in Jerusalem mingle as members of both faiths celebrate their rich cultures. The magnificent Dome of the Rock is also a visitor's must. This stunning 7th-century Jerusalem edifice enshrines the rock from which Muḥammad is said to have ascended to heaven. A journey to Masada in the Judean desert is a great day trip from Jerusalem. The rugged natural fortress  is a symbol of Jewish bravery and tenacity.  It overlooks the Dead Sea. In Jerusalem AS LENT  draws to a close, native sons and daughters might avoid Jerusalem. They may celebrate their heritage at Masada or Galilee, or even with a float in the Dead Sea. But many Christians consider an Easter visit to Jerusalem a priority on their bucket lists. THE SPECTACLE  in Jerusalem is thrilling, as locals and pilgrims celebrate Holy Week in the Holy City.  THE CULMINATION of course is Easter Sunday. Even for non-believers, celebrating the events of Jesus’ life at the sites where they occurred is moving. Easter Week   began last Sunday with the celebration of Jesus’ entrance into Jerusalem, greeted by cheering throngs.  Palm Sunday mass was celebrated at the monumental Church of the Holy Sepulchre with the palm procession following. Thousands of Christians from around the world joyfully marched from Bethphage, singing in many languages, down the western slope of the Mount of Olives across the Kidron valley and into the Old City. The next days were for praying and meditation. Yosh Wickman  and Bruce Keller at the Dead Sea, another Israel site. THEN ON HOLY Thursday, the Mass of the Lord’s Supper was celebrated at the Holy Sepulchre followed by ceremony with the Franciscans on Mount Zion, and a meditative holy hour with the actor portraying Jesus, leading up to his arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane.  A memorable candlelight procession followed to the church of St. Peter in Gallicantu where Jesus is said to have spent the night after his arrest.  I always light candles for my departed loved ones. The colorful fabrics of Arab people attract the eye. The crucifixion marked Good Friday, followed by Easter Vigil and vespers, the climax of the week, in the Basilica of the Resurrection.  ON EASTER  Sunday, mass was again celebrated for throngs at 8 a.m. with a procession around Jesus’ tomb. Many pilgrims follow the Stations of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa. They also celebrate Christ’s funeral at the Sepulchre, an event unique to the Church of Jerusalem, reenacting the deposition of Christ’s body into the tomb. THERE IS  so much to do and see in Israel!  I've been lucky to make five visits, and I hope for another.  The culture is rich and varied, the amalgam of people, history and architecture are thrilling.  The people are warm, witty, proud and welcoming.   The food is fabulous. The beauty of the villages and particularly glorious Jerusalem has an unforgettable staying power. Cookie's favorite tree, the jacaranda, was in bloom throughout a recent trip through Central America, Colombia and west Mexico.  COMING UP :  Speaking of beauty, the glorious purple jacaranda tree bloomed a path for us for nearly a month as we departed San Diego to visit seven countries south of us. Our recent transit of the Panama Canal segued to Central America with its variety and wonders.  We also stopped in Puerto Vallarta, made famous in the early 1960s by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor during filming of "The Night of the Iguana." Sure, there are drugs.  But the delights trump the fear, with fabulous food, adventurous people, and the glories of the natural world of birds, monkeys, trees and waterways. Remember to explore, learn and live and join us Wednesdays and weekends:  www.whereiscookie.com

Believer or not, it's easy to be moved by the religious history of the splendid city of Jerusalem. Here, Cookie pauses enroute to the Church of the Holy Seprelcre to see the now complete and laborious restoration of the tomb of Jesus. ANCIENT SACRED SITE GETS MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR FACELIFT TO USHER IN HOLY DAYS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and courtesy Associated Press JUST IN TIME  for Passover and Easter, a crack Greek restoration team unveiled an elaborate, high-tech renovation of the Jerusalem shrine housing the tomb where tradition says Jesus was   buried and rose. Restoration complete, the church's famous tomb shines with new luster. Above left, the church may be approached through a colorful covered bazaar.  The archaeologists, known for restoration work on historic Egyptian and Turkish sites, were laying the groundwork for the repairs on our last visit. The project has been on the boards since 1959. The shrine needed urgent attention after years of exposure to moisture, humidity and candle smoke. We spent two spring days in the city, known for its shrines, mosques and temples and the relics of a trio of major religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam. THE TOMB IS  known as the Edicule, and rests within the Old City of Jerusalem in the Church of the Holy Seplulchre Cookie lights a candle near the tomb, honoring her departed. Above, the tomb shortly before our last visit.   What struck us was that until recently, the tomb was so dingy and blackened. When next we visit, we are excited to witness the results of the painstaking transformation. The original ivory sheen of the marble has emerged -- the tomb is no longer dark and dingy but looks much as it did centuries ago. 21ST CENTURY techniques -- including radar and thermography -- were used to examine the tomb's supporting structure tomb and ground beneath. The experts, from the National Technical University of Athens, stripped the stone slabs from the shrine’s façade and patched internal masonry, injecting it with grout for reinforcement. Each stone was wiped clean of candle soot and pigeon droppings, then put back in place. Titanium bolts were added for reinforcement, and the shrine's frescos and painted dome were given a facelift. Above and below left, painstaking removal of grime restored each stone slab. Additional work is necessary to better stabilize the ground. The Greek conservators will be part of that effort, too, after it is approved by those who inhabit and use the church. It is still an active shrine -- and home to 50 monks, who insist that it be kept open for pilgrims.  Since the fourth Century AD, the church has been a cemetery. Romans had built a temple there to honor Aphrodite and for centuries it was also a quarry. NOW GONE IS THE unsightly iron cage built around the shrine by British authorities in 1947 to shore up the walls. Gone are layers of soot from decades of pilgrims' candles. Vastly improved is the stability of the old shrine, which hadn’t been restored in more than 200 years. “If this repair hadn’t happened now, there could have been a collapse,” Bonnie Burnham of the World Monuments Fund said this week. “This is a complete transformation of the monument.” A PRIVATE DONATION provided an initial $1.4 million for the $4 million restoration. That gift came from the widow of Atlantic Records founder. Jordan’s King Abdullah II and Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas each chipped in 150,000 euros -- totaling $320,000. Church donations and other private gifts raised the rest. The limestone and marble Church of the Holy Sepulcher is among the world’s oldest churches — a 12th-century building on 4th-century remains. Three main Christian denominations jealously guard separate sections of the church, but put aside longstanding religious rivalries to approve the restoration. In 2015, Israeli police briefly shut down the building after Israel’s Antiquities Authority deemed it unsafe. Repairs finally began in earnest in June 2016. UP NEXT: Julian, California, in the spring is a gorgeous bounty of blooms and fragrance. Come with us to visit this charming mountain town not far from San Diego. From homemade apple pie to art,  ice cream to friendly inns and B&Bs, Julian is a quaint, appealing town. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for the weekend.   Right, daffodils are protected in Julian, California, where it is illegal to pick them. The town is famous for apples as well.