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Naples and Amalfi Coast Itinerary

  • Writer: Cookie & Keller
    Cookie & Keller
  • Jan 3, 2020
  • 4 min read

Updated: Jul 3

White cliffside villages photographed from a boat rise above Naples with the rocky Amalfi coast above blue sea
If the Amalfi Coast calls you, Naples is where you'll likely land first, via airplane or ship. Then on to Positano, or perhaps charming Sorrento. Don't miss the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, victims of still steaming Vesuvius.  

NAPLES: VIBRANT, HISTORIC ENTRYWAY TO AMALFI, SORRENTO, AND THE ANCIENT RUINS OF VESUVIUS


A Naples woman in black jacket checks her phone and has a cigaret beside a flower bedecked snack stand  on a picturesque city street
Cigarettes, flowers and cell phones on a colorful Naples street. This lively, ancient city is a gateway to Pompeii, Amalfi and more.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

"The Carpe Diem Kids"

Editor's Note: This post was updated and verified in July 2026


OLD MEETS NEW, noise collides with calm, clutter meets elegance in one of southern Europe's great, enduring cities.


In Naples and this diverse corner of Italy you'll find ancient courtyards and grand staircases, elegant halls and busy streets, buses, busts, scooters, smokers, tourists, locals, dust, wine shops, great museums, majestic cathedrals and irreverent youth.

Bruce Keller waits in Naples at  Napoli Garibaldi train station, framed by a billboard for Strega, an orange flavored Italian liquer
Bruce Keller waits in Naples at the Napoli Garibaldi train station, framed by a billboard for Strega, an orange flavored Italian liquer popular in Naples.  

The city is one of contrasts and extremes, sandwiched between the Campi Flegrei, or "burning fields" and a sleeping volcano.

A coastal fortress stands sentinel above Naples, a charming red-roofed town and harbor
Just steps from the  sea, Naples rises up, with antiquity, grace and a centuries old fortress.

THE VOLCANO, Vesuvius, is one of the major attractions for visitors to Naples, who usually plan side trips. Your Naples and Amalfi coast itinerary should include a drive to Positano. Consider, too, lovely Sorrento and two famous ruined cities.

Tourists study bronze sculptures on white pedestals in a Herculaneum gallery
Both Pompeii and Herculaneum have interesting museums with sculptures and displays to study.

In AD79, Vesuvius destroyed Pompeii, south of Rome, in about 25 hours. A full day is about what you should plan to see the fascinating city.   The preserved site features excavated ruins of streets and houses that one can explore. Because the city was buried so quickly by volcanic ash, it is an eerily, well-preserved snapshot of life in a Roman city -- people crafting pottery, shopping, even giving birth.


Equally fascinating is nearby Herculaneum, also destroyed by the vengeful Vesuvius. Unlike Pompeii, though, the smaller, wealthier city was encased in a pyroclastic material that covered and carbonized the town.  This preserved wood in objects -- roofs, beds and doors -- and organic-based materials such as food. All this is artfully displayed for us to ponder.


Most but not all of the residents evacuated the city in advance. But more than 400 well-preserved skeletons were found. These people perished near the seawall. Remains were discovered in 1980.


Shoppers in a modern mall corridor in the Naples train station, with GameStop and Unieuro stores, and plenty of souvenirs
Italy's train stations will get you from Naples to the historic cities destroyed by Vesuvius. They also feature shops for souvenir shopping with everything from camera equipment to Italian crafts.

The easiest way to get from Naples to Pompeii or by Herculaneum is by train.

Each takes about 30-40 minutes and there are many of these friendly "regional" trains.


Naples and Amalfi Coast Itinerary

WE LIKE the trains but if you prefer a shuttle, that's a possibility, too. We recommend City Sightseeing Naples for a personalized day tour of Naples and SAMI Private Tours for your journey up the Amalfi Coast to Positano. Terrific commentary, small comfortable vehicles.


 with stone towers and flags under a bright sky
In Naples, a red hop-on-and-off sightseeing bus passes historic Castel Nuovo, its flags waving.

Back in Naples, a pizza maker sings Verdi while he works his dough. You're in the birthplace of pizza, so enjoy.  Young boys approach the tourist with smiles and Neapolitan gestures.  Couples lounge in wicker seats drinking champagne at outdoor cafe tables -- as early as 10:30 a.m.


Life is lived large in the streets. Strollers enter a mix of students, housewives, children with music everywhere: a mix of opera, hard-rock and Italian folk songs. Music is in the Neapolitan soul.


Smiling Cookie and Keller pose on the Amafli Coast at a mountain overlook above Naples, with cliffs and blue sky in the background

 IF HOMER is to be believed, Ulysses was the first mariner to escape temptation in the Bay of Naples. According to "The Odyssey," Ulysses knew of the bay’s infamous sirens — part women, part bird or nymph — who lured sailors to their death by singing so beautifully that no one could sail on without succumbing. So when returning from the Trojan War, he plugged the ears of his crew with beeswax and bound himself to the mast until they were safely past the sirens. Angry over their failure to seduce the sailors, one of the sirens, Parthenope, drowned herself. The original Naples supposedly began on the spot where she washed ashore.

Colorful seaside Amafli coastal village sports tiled church dome, pink flowers and many boats on the sea below
A trek up the Amalfi Coast is a must, with its curving roads and breathtaking scenery. Easy to do from Naples.

Communities around Naples date to the second millennium before Christ. Europeans visit Naples for its mild, sunny Mediterranean climate, safe harbor, turquoise sky, and indigo sea. Its lush green look is enhanced by rich volcanic soil and an easy growing season.

THE RAVAGES of World War II are mostly repaired, as are the results of centuries of earthquakes and volcanic activity. The traditional Christmas trees are up for a few more days!

Celebrated for its paintings, mosaics and music, Naples is breathtakingly beautiful approached from the sea. But don't miss a few days "up the road" to Sorrento, those two ruined cities and Amalfi's enchanting coastline. 

MORE INFO:



A pair of Yorkshire terrier pups, Nick and Nora, are dressed  in sweaters and lounging on a plaid blanket, Nick chewing a rawhide bone
Nick, left, and Nora, were four months old in this photo, taken when they were pups.

UP NEXT:  Why the fuss about dogs from yours truly this week?  One doggie, in particular, our Yorkshire terrier, Nora, came close to the Rainbow Bridge but has made a remarkable comeback thanks to a fine veterinarian, a doggie ICU and plenty of TLC from the human species.  Doggone it, we love our pets and make no apology. Discover how Yorkie Nora and her brother, Nick came to Cookie as puppies and helped save this reporter's life. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, theater, art, nature, family and more. We feature international travel, with many worldwide destination features at our website: www.whereiscookie.com


2 Comments

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Panhellenic Fans
Jan 27
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Excellent piece, so helpful.

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Guest
Jan 27
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Fabulous, lively overview! Great tips.

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