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WALK WITH THE ANIMALS, WATCH THE LIONS DINE, ADMIRE A GIRAFFE PAINTING PICTURES The Lion Habitat Ranch is a wonderfully run operation where you can get up close and personal with these gorgeous lions.  TAKE AN EDUCATIONAL BREAK TO COMMUNE WITH LIONS NEXT TIME YOU'RE IN VEGAS AT LION HABITAT RANCH STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Families and nature lovers take a break from Las Vegas action to enjoy the Lion Habitat Ranch not far from the famous Strip, and a relaxing break. JUST A HALF-HOUR from the glitter of the Las Vegas strip, a fascinating haven for lions exists. Call it a proud pride! Far from the happy noise and chaos of Sin City, another kind of jackpot awaits the Vegas visitor. This heavenly enterprise is Lion Habitat Ranch, a non-profit endeavor spawned by Keith Evans and his wife Beverly.  They fell in love with the lions and share them with visitors in a wonderful quiet environment minutes from Las Vegas. A guinea fowl poses for the photographer. This beautifully cared for lion has a look at his viewers at the habitat. He was one of the MGM Grand exhibit lions before that closed. Our visit was a calming balance to the slots, lights and high-speed city life -- the essential but exhausting pace that draws us all to Las Vegas. THESE CONTENTED CATS are safe and sound at their 8.5-acre ranch, located about 12 miles from the Las Vegas Strip. On weekends, you can watch the lions romp, play, have lunch and rest. (They sleep more than 14 or 15 hours a day!) If some of the faces look familiar, that's because they were stars at their former habitat inside MGM Grand Hotel. For 11 years, the devoted Evans brought his big cats from the ranch to the hotel each day, carefully rotating them so visitors could enjoy the species every day without taxing any individual lion. THE LION , of course, has long been the symbol of MGM Studios in Hollywood.  We all remember the mighty roar at the beginnings and ends of movies. Bev Evans has spent years caring for lions. The lions, Evans was proud to say, never spent the night at the hotel, because he always returned them to his Ranch for shut-eye. And although the old location closed in January 2012, visitors can still enjoy these exquisite creatures at the non-profit Ranch. A giraffe who paints?  You betcha.  Here, a worker readies the brush. The gift shop sells Ozzie's beautiful, bold, one-of-a-kind paintings. (The Mirage, up the Strip, still hosts Siegfried and Roy's Secret Garden, a zoo-like animal sanctuary hosting tigers, lions, panthers and bottle nose dolphins.) Ranch workers said that MGM curtailed its lion exhibit because two lion shows in close proximity was too much to sustain.) PERHAPS THAT  was a good thing for Evans' enterprise. Now the lions don't have to be schlepped back and forth, and they live in a relaxed, clean, well organized operation.   Workers interact with ease -- on a three-fold basis: with one another, with the audience and with the critters. THE HABITAT  offers a learning experience, too.  As one strolls and pauses outside the expansive cages and runs, a subtle schooling is taking place.   Workers answer questions, sharing fascinating facts about the lions with which they've formed strong attachments. Ozzie's paintings are a big hit at the habitat gift shop.  The giraffe is not afraid of bold strokes, and seems to enjoy his creative bent. I hadn't realized that "the girls" do the hunting, along with caring for newborns. And African lions are social, too -- they take dinner together -- eating as a group, just as we humans do. They sleep well over 15 hours -- sometimes as much as 20 hours daily -- usually together in a big slumber party. WE WATCHED  them romp -- and run a bit.  In the wild, they can reach speeds of 40 miles per hour and jump as high as 13 feet. We saw several jumps on the cleverly arranged ramps and levels that Evans designed, to approximate the ledges and drop-offs the lions might have in their own environment. Mama lion, second from right, plays with her cubs after everyone has lunch. We also joined a group of other tourists to watch the lions eat.  Three trainers hand-fed them, each receiving several pounds of horse meat. The staff know the lions by name -- one group of siblings look similar to the novices among us, but one of the trainers tells them apart by the spots around the eyes -- one has two, one has three, etc. Fascinating. CARETAKERS  also spend hours each day keeping the lions looking spiffy --  free of burrs and grass -- beauty-shop gorgeous. To assure the lions look good, trainers shampoo them with baby shampoo, then blow-dry their fur. Evans calls it "the mane attraction." We were lucky in our timing to spend an hour with three trainers as they hand-fed the lions.  Then, frisky from a full tummy, they romped. It was thrilling to witness the cubs jump over mum and swat one another playfully. If you feel flush,  join other visitors for private three- or four-hour private lion sessions. Prices begin at $800, all to help keep the place open. A unique viewing "bubble" afford kids the opportunity to be under the sea. THE PAINTING  giraffe, Ozzie, is another delight.  He has been trained to connect his paintbrush to the canvas, and the results are charming, splashy works of art, for sale at the preserve, along with tastefully made hand jewelry.  Wonderful souvenirs. Don't miss an opportunity to journey out to this close-by Las Vegas wonder. You'll hit the jackpot. UP NEXT:  Come with us to a ring-side seat!  We'll dive under the sea, at the Bay Aquarium in San Francisco, where kids of all ages enjoy close-up views of marine life, in a small and user-friendly space.  Our "back to nature" series continues.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends and as the adventures take us, at www.whereiscookie.com .

This photograph was taken in the fall as one of the first large sculptural pieces was being installed. The piece is "Proverb," by Mark di Suvero .  This June, July and August, concert goers will hear music indoors and around the sculptures. Tippet Rise MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR ARTS, MUSIC ENTERPRISE WELCOMES INTERNATIONAL ROSTER OF PLAYERS Editor's Note: Today we offer the first of a two-part piece on Tippet Rise Art Center, which opens for its summer season with a roster of world class concerts. Today, we look at the genesis, background and development of the multi-million dollar arts and nature project.  Next Friday, we explore the programming, breadth, management and international scope of Tippet Rise. Tippet Rise landscape offers color in all four seasons, and provides backdrop for what Tippet Rise organizers call "music coming from the center of the earth." STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Tippet Rise high atop the plateaus where sheep and cattle ranchers have long ground out a living, and native people fished and hunted centuries before, a brilliantly conceived center for the arts and music is open for its first season. Imagination, location and deep pockets are principal players in the new Tippet Rise Art Center near Fishtail, Montana. Peter and Cathy Halstead had a vision for a place that would break down barriers between art and nature. The finely tuned enterprise in the majestic Beartooth Mountains includes concert spaces for world class musicians, outdoor museum pieces with multi-million dollar commissions, and meticulous, "green" architecture with methods to make it an environmentalist’s dream. Big Sky Journal piece features Halsteads and Tippet Rise   The 11,500-acre creation has been introducing itself to small groups for several months and began to officially welcome the public in June. AFTER SCOURING land in Hawaii and Colorado, Tippet Rise benefactors Peter and Cathy Halstead came upon the  property they’d dreamed of.  They fell in love with the Fishtail property, seeing its potential for a magnificent nature-driven “gallery” with indoor and outdoor concert spaces. Alban Bassuet shows off the Patrick Dougherty schoolhouse, Daydreams," which transcends boundaries between land art, sculpture, and architecture. Tippet Rise is the result, an innovative brain child of these two creative people with money to indulge their fantasies.   Located on hills and valleys which inspired painter Isabelle Johnson, Tippet Rise – like its former inhabitant -- is an original. It encourages participation.  Neither festival nor retreat, it incorporates elements of both.   It is the Halsteads' personal homage to the arts, taking their philanthropy and love of the arts to a grand level in an inspiring setting. As creators and bankrollers of the non-profit Tippet Rise enterprise, the Halsteads opened heart, mind and check book, hiring cutting edge talent to shape their vision. Peter is an accomplished pianist with an enviable collection of Steinways many of which he has moved to the property. He dreamed of weaving classical music with landscape. Cathy, a painter with a fondness for grand sculptural pieces, shares Peter’s love of the outdoors. The two wanted their concert space to extend the landscape, to merge nature’s art with man’s creations. THEY COURTED  internationally recognized acoustician, designer and venue planner Alban Bassuet. Naming the acclaimed Frenchman “executive director,” they charged him with bringing together performers, audiences, sculpture and musical pieces in a spectacular natural setting. An Isabelle Johnson painting of her family ranch. The land is now host to an acclaimed new art center. Bassuet supervises design, construction and programming, drawing from his “players” like a maestro rehearsing a premiere.  He drives the property, confers with contractors and engineers, studies architectural plans, makes decisions. With the premier season in swing through its finale Aug. 21 – Bassuet is basking in glory. He thinks it "fitting, almost ordained" that Tippet Rise ground inspired a beloved Montana painter long before the Halsteads eyed it. Painter Isabelle Johnson, photographed in the 1940s, inhabited and painted Tippet Rise land.  Isabelle Johnson, born in 1901, lived on the land for decades, painting it with a modernist’s zeal.  Her style is compared to an earlier post-Impressionist pioneer, Paul Cezanne.  She died in 1992, leaving paintings testifying to the countryside’s beauty.  Bassuet and the Halsteads believe it fitting that music and sculpture celebrate the land Johnson loved, ranched and painted, and that her family ranch land hosts a novel arts center.  “Is there a budget?” a guest asks.  “Not really,” Bassuet smiles. “It’s about the Halsteads’ belief that art, music, architecture and nature play key roles in the human experience.”      THE HALSTEADS' fortunes come from investments, banking, oil and alcohol.  (Does Grey Goose vodka ring a bell?  Sidney Frank, Cathy Halstead’s father who died in 2006, founded the company.) The two grew up with philanthropy, art and reverence for the land. Arts boosters Bruce Keller, Christene Meyers and Corby Skinner, backed by an Alexander Calder sculpture at Tippet Rise. Hiring an enterprising Frenchman to champion their project was shrewd, for they found someone whose artistic sensibilities parallel theirs.  Their bold ambition – creating modern art in a rugged landscape -- works.  The sculptures look made for the place, rising against a backdrop of sagebrush and volcanic rock, both constants in Johnson’s paintings.    The Halsteads’ dream included the desire that people be free to “move about the land, appreciating it as an extension of their enjoyment of the arts,” Bassuet says.  “They insisted each piece occupy its own space.”  With sculpture commissions in the millions, the Halsteads wanted viewers to concentrate on each piece individually– without seeing another work.  For that, a large expanse of land was a necessity.     TYhe renowned Ariel String Quartet opened the debut Tippet Rise season with pianist Nikolai Demidenko, left, on the Brahms Piano Quartet.  COMING UP:   Next week's blog celebrates the programming, artwork and expertise represented in Tippet Rise, from the world renowned sculptors and musicians (NPR's Christopher O'Reilly is program director) to cutting-edge architects, the ranch manager who keeps a working ranch, the "green" caterers and the education co-ordinator who works with museums and school expeditions on outreach programs.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post for the weekend.

"Daydreams" by Patrick Dougherty, under construction last fall at Tippet Rise, is part of a glorious landscape merging art and nature, with indoor and outdoor performance spaces, world known sculpture and a roster of international performers.  Tippet Rise Olivier Barn concert hall going up in October. Tippet Rise CONCERTS, SCULPTURE, 'GREEN' THEME WILL ATTRACT INTERNATIONAL ATTENTION STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER TIPPET RISE  spared no expense in hiring the best people available for each position. And its designers and builders made certain it is environmentally correct in every way. Tippet Rise completed Olivier Barn concert hall. Peter Halstead, left foreground, opened the program, with Christopher O'Riley, in chair, director of programming. Above right, from left: Bruce Keller, Christene Meyers and Corby Skinner framed by an Alexander Calder sculpture.  For music director of Tippet Rise, founders Cathy and Peter Halstead chose nationally known pianist Christopher O’Riley, host of National Public Radio’s “From the Top.” Big Sky Journal features innovation at Tippet Rise  O’Riley’s diverse music series features world premieres by prominent composers, and internationally renowned artists --“immersive concert experiences” in both the acoustically perfect Olivier Barn and the open-sided, moveable outdoor acoustical shell, Tiara.  Other performances will be staged at sculpture sites.   Dozens of workers helped finish Tippet Rise's outdoor concert space, Tiara, and the rest of the major buildings between autumn and this summer. HIRING ENTERPRISING Frenchman Alban Bassuet to champion their project was shrewd, for they found someone whose artistic sensibilities parallel theirs.  Their bold ambition – creating modern art in a rugged landscape -- works.  The sculptures look made for the place, rising against a backdrop of sagebrush and volcanic rock. Bassuet is known internationally for his ability to "stretch" and break down boundaries. He’s supervised projects in Greece, Switzerland, Iceland, Houston, Boston and Taipei. Alban Bassuet, left, and sculptor Ricardo Sanz during an early period of the design phase. A much larger piece massive in size now dwarfs humans. The Halsteads’ dream saw people “free to move about the land, appreciating it as an extension of their enjoyment of the arts,” Bassuet says.  “And they insisted each piece occupy its own space.” WITH SCULPTURE  commissions in the millions (a single work carries a $5 million price tag), the Halsteads determined that viewers concentrate on each piece individually. For that, a large expanse of land was a necessity.  “Rise” is a suggestive title for the project, considered by many to be Montana’s most daring and expensive arts endeavor. “What we are doing here is progressive,” says Bassuet. “We’re about renewable energy, sustainable farming, hiring local people, buying locally, making magnificent art." Bassuet believes lovers of music, art and landscape will travel from far beyond to experience this new “land art” space.  Peter Halstead explains to a full house how he and his wife, Cathy, merged their various interests in creation of Tippet Rise. TICKETS TO THE  performances venues – outdoor and indoor -- cost only $10.  The first season sold out immediately, and in the tradition of chamber music soirees, the audience is only 100.  Music aficionados enhance their concert going with a tour of the sculptures created by internationally known artists.   Drivers shuttle people to nine large carefully positioned pieces.  More will be added.       "DAYDREAMS"  is an installation by internationally praised environmental artist Patrick Dougherty.  The one-room prairie schoolhouse looks like a set piece for “Little House on the Prairie,” enticingly draped in woven saplings and sticks.  The building is new, but designed to appear old.  Nails have been pushed up to look as if they’d spent decades battling the elements. Dougherty’s woven willows bring the building to life.   Tippet Rise invites lovers of art, music and landscape to indulge their senses.   A Mark di Suvero's six-story work has a metronome-like pendulum and A-frame supports.  It was moved from Dallas, one of 55 cities to host the artist’s work. Another di Suvero piece, “Beethoven’s Quartet,” is a monumental musical sculpture.  Ensamble Studios of Madrid artist Ricardo Sanz installed two vertical rocklike forms which lean toward one another. Famed structural artist Stephen Talasnik’s “Pioneer” appears to float, drawing the eye up towards the “big sky” which stands sentinel above the rolling hills.    THE INDOOR CONCERT  space showcases designer Laura Viklund’s glorious wooden frame, in the guise of an “old barn.”  Complementing it are new-age, perfect acoustics, with green room, dressing room, piano storage room and lifts.  Water, electricity, insulation, heating and cooling, including solar panels, are all “planet friendly.” Veteran rancher Ben Wynthein manages the property, insuring that it remain a working ranch, digging wells and monitoring grazing lands for sheep and cattle. Pete and Lindsey Hinmon direct logistics and operations, including working with teachers from surrounding towns. The Halsteads hired Montana labor and contractors, recruited local landscapers, maintenance workers, marketing specialists, ushers, stagehands and drivers.  They signed on local caterers Wendy Reed and Nick Goldman, remembered for their inventive feasts at Big Yellow House in Absarokee. The artists -- from U.S. cities and Europe -- fell in love with Montana, Bassuet says, “and found themselves captivated by its spectacular settings.” (His own affinity for the project resulted in moving his family to Montana.)  Exquisite craftsmanship is the byword at Tippet Rise. Utility lines are hidden.  Even the parking lot looks discreetly natural, “to entice the eye as one approaches,” says Bassuet.  The place is a metaphor for art’s transcendent quality, its ability to connect people and engage them in the landscape.      “Tippet Rise is the tip of the spear,” Bassuet says.  “We believe people will visit – almost as a pilgrimage. Tippet Rise will become a destination of itself.” UP NEXT:  Who knew that near the heart of busy San Diego, a piece of country awaits discovery by this native Montanan.  Las Penasquitos Canyon Preserve and Ranch is a lovely, rugged park with a historic adobe ranch house built in 1823. The place is now on the National Historic Register and offers hiking, biking, equestrian trails and more. It's near Carmel Mountain Ranch, and the I15, but you wouldn't know it's in the city. Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post for the weekend. Rancho Penasquitos and the Canyon Preserve await.

An Alexander Calder sculpture welcomes concert goers to an unforgettable experience merging art, music and nature. Tippet Rise, six years in the making,  is gaining international acclaim for its invention, talent and originality. GLORIOUS CONCERT HALL, SCULPTURES, WORLD CLASS ARTISTS COMPLEMENT NATURE'S OWN GRAND STAGE AT TIPPET RISE Each piece of sculpture at Tippet Rise contributes an evocative voice to the complex. Here in the Olivier Barn, Stephen Talasnik's large wall sculpture gives a striking effect. Talasnik, born in Philadelphia and New York based, is one of the world-class contributors. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHEN PETER  and Cathy Halstead began their search for  the perfect place to build their dream, they had one unifying goal. The place must inspire, with landscape that would enhance both the music dear to musician Peter's heart, and the visual arts which have long inspired Cathy's painting.   The property they ultimately settled on is a few miles above the tiny Montana town of Fishtail.  Still a working cattle ranch and once inspiration for well known Stillwater County painter Isabelle Johnson, the wide and sweeping landscape stirs the imagination and lifts the spirits. Marco Polo "Mark" di Suvero's looming piece is one of the stunning abstract expressionist sculptures gracing Tippet Rise. NOW WITH millions of dollars worth of sculpture -- and a concert hall whose impeccable acoustics delight the world's top musicians -- Tippet Rise indeed inspires. The project pays fitting tribute to the working ranch's late resident rancher and painter, Isabelle Johnson.  Some believe her ghost is riding high, waving her paint brush, smiling down on the Halsteads' unique endeavor. A world traveler, ahead of her time, Johnson studied in Europe, merging cutting edge technique with her own energy, curiosity and undeniable talent. So, too, do the Halsteads. Peter Halstead's own poetry entertains at Tippet Rise, where pre-concert talks and readings prepare viewers for an evening of enticing delights. Married for decades and friends since their teen-age years, the couple shared dreams and goals as their relationship and artistic tastes matured. They traveled the world, and studied at both Columbia University and New York University. Peter is an accomplished pianist and well published poet, with a wry wit and broad tastes.  He also possesses Pianist Anne Marie McDermott, interviewed by Peter Halstead, shares spirited anecdotes before her weekend concerts of Haydn and Mozart recently.  Halstead also writes erudite program notes. an enviable collection of Steinways which he plays, stores and shares at the art center. Cathy is a respected visual artist, who has shown in top galleries. Tippet Rise pays homage to both of their lifelong passions. 'MAJESTIC'  describes their collaboration -- grand artwork and enchanting concerts on 11,500 acres where cattle roam and sheep graze. As season two of the venture caps, one listens to Beethoven, Mozart and Haydn -- along with new-age percussion works -- performed on perfectly tuned instruments by artists who play the world's great concert halls. The concert goer ponders beauty on several levels -- both man made and wondrously spawned by nature.  Outside, seemingly at peace with the practiced sounds from within, deer graze beneath the cottonwoods, framed by the Olivier Barn's showcase windows.   http://www.whereiscookie.com/2016/07/tippet-rise-magic-arises-from.html TOURS TO  the sculptures are available, and a delightful restaurant serves healthy western fare created by Nick and Wendy Goldman of Wildflower Kitchen and Catering. Peter  Halstead shares his grand pianos, including Vladimir Horowitz's personal piano, which Eugene Istomin also played.  It resides at Tippet Rise, and is kept tuned for visiting artists. Beyond the summer concerts, specialty films, plays and operas are shared via cinema. Area university ensembles and community arts groups are invited to perform. Neighbors are invited to barbecue. Workshops are held throughout the season and an outreach director insures the community participates in and is kept abreast of the center's endeavors and global reach. Tippet Rise, named after Cathy's mother, merges landscape with the couple's lifelong commitment to the arts. The Halsteads' unique merger would surely please their ancestors -- philanthropists with a love of nature. http://www.whereiscookie.com/2016/06/tippet-rise-philanthropists-love-of.html Sweeping vistas draw the viewer in -- rolling hills, clouds straight out of a fairy tale, and sculptures, each in its own space, not visible from the other. AS HEIRS  to the Grey Goose vodka fortune and other successful investments,  the Halsteads hired the world's best talent to shape their vision. We are the beneficiaries of their largesse.  The Halsteads' belief -- that art enriches the human experience, and that nature inspires both artists and aficionados -- will outlive us all. Meanwhile, we anxiously await season three. NEXT UP:  Oregon's lighthouses have long inspired, with their remarkable  architecture and time honored history of helping sailors, commerce and tourism.  We take you on a tour of some of the finest.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post for each weekend a novel spin on the arts, nature and whatever else catches our eye!

Mama Mia!  Monuments,  cathedrals, fine food, cheap wine, friendly folk, gorgeous scenery....now that's Italian via Tuscany! Bruce Keller at Pisa, enjoying a light rain to make the place glisten! STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Rolling hills, sun-drenched vineyards, and timeless villages—this Tuscany travel guide explores the best itinerary for first-time visitors, from Florence’s Renaissance treasures to hidden countryside gems. Golden light spills across the vineyards as cypress-lined roads wind through the heart of Italy’s most iconic region. This Tuscany travel guide is your invitation to slow down and experience the magic—whether you’re wandering the art-filled streets of Florence, sipping wine in Chianti, or discovering quiet hilltop towns that feel untouched by time. If you’re planning the best Tuscany travel itinerary for first-time visitors, this journey blends must-see landmarks with authentic local moments you’ll never forget. Tuscany travel guide itinerary for first-time visitors Tuscany's unique green countryside.     Tuscany has something for all. IF YOU CAN'T agree on a vacation destination one person wants scenery, another great food and wine, another monuments and history give Tuscany a try. It's "one stop shopping" in the tourist lexicon, where all the major wants, desires and yearnings can be satisfied no matter how diverse the group, or how different a couple's tastes. Many easy day trips can take you from the Chianti region to ancient wonders. From the glories of Renaissance Firenze (that's Florence in English), with its glut of of artistic treasures, to the golden landscape and hilltop towns of the Tuscan countryside, Tuscany is a wonder. Gaze at the beautiful cypress and terraces of the Chianti and Montepulciano vineyards, stroll through Pisa and investigate its famous Leaning Tower. Rent a car and drive south to lovely Siena with its scallop-shaped piazza. TRY SOME  squid and pasta in tomato sauce -- you can smell the basil, garlic and oregano blocks away from the restaurant. Cookie and Keller had morning caffe for less than five Euros in Greve! Stop in to some of the galleries and see why this region has fed the imagination and delighted the senses of countless visitors for many years. For several years, we rented a villa in Chianti near the alluring market town of Greve. Each day, we set off from our 12th Century digs, to explore the countryside with its beautifully restored farmhouses and inviting tiny villages. Greve is a picturesque Tuscan town, with wonderful rentals, inviting piazzas and dozens of fine, reasonably priced cafes.  WE'D FIND  a new cathedral or small museum to while away a couple morning hours, then have lunch at a new restaurant -- always with a half-carafe of the house wine -- about 3 Euros, or $5 and always delicious. The coffee in this part of the world is also delicious -- small jump-charging "piccolo caffe nero" was my favorite morning wake-up, but the grande caffe con panna was Keller's favorite, warm cream in black coffee and yummy with a couple sugars. Squid in tomato sauce over a small bed of linguini (not much! The chef let the squid and tomatoes be the stars!) A Tuscan taste treat. GREVE IS  well known to Italians as the market town of the Chianti Classico wine zone.  It's occupies a lovely cypress covered niche in the hilly region between Florence and Sienna. We liked Chianti because of the reasonably priced villa, the privacy of our own digs with a small but adequate kitchen, and the opportunity to explore. Besides quick drives into Greve, we took day trips to Florence, Siena, Lucca and Pisa. THE OFFERINGS  of places to stay range from single rooms to lavish apartments, rustic or luxurious farm houses, and villas fit for a prince. Maybe try Booking.com We like them alot. add caption Our villa was redone with terracotta tiled floors and beamed ceilings, furnished in country style with authentic antiques and fine copies of paintings by the Italian masters: Giotto, Botticelli, Donatello, Masaccio, Fra Angelico, Piero Della and more. You can visit a different cathedral, plaza, museum, cafe each day, and Tuscans like to mark their monuments and statues with plaques and dates. Our bathroom gave us plenty of laughs -- there was no indoor plumbing 800 years ago -- and the kitchen was tiny, improvised from the day when kitchens were located in separate buildings. We had access to a large, modern swimming pool and a perfect view of vineyards and cypress trees for relaxing, Scrabble, drinking wine and reading. MANY OF  our friends claim to pay less for villas than for modest hotels -- figuring two or three couples, each with a private bedroom.  So consider this option if you're traveling with others. We dined like kings and queens and if we returned to a restaurant, it wasn't for lack of choice.  It was because we loved the food. The most memorable meal -- the aforementioned sauteed squid and garlic in a tomato sauce over just a little linguini!                                             COMING UP : . Those alluring California coastal hotels, romantic travel by train, a couple lazy days in Red Lodge, two-stepping out at the Cowboy Bar in Fishtail, a trip to exciting Barcelona. For fun, frolic and off-the-track enticements,  visit us at:  www.whereiscookie.com And remember to explore, learn and live!

Whirling waters of the Stillwater in south-central Montana lead the way to Sioux Charley. The U.S. Forest Service has created a lovely path to Sioux Charley Lake MONTANA GORGE MAKES FOR MAGICAL HIKING   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Excerpt . There’s something special about the places that don’t try too hard to be found. Sioux Charley Lake, reached by following Stillwater Trail #24 , is one of those places—a peaceful stretch of water surrounded by rolling hills, native grasslands, and big Montana sky. Not far from Wolf Point, this lesser-known destination offers a different kind of beauty than the state’s more famous पर्व parks and mountain towns. Here, the pace slows, the crowds disappear, and the landscape feels wide open in every direction. Whether you’re hiking, wildlife watching, or just looking for a quiet place to breathe, Sioux Charlie Lake is worth the journey. EACH YEAR , rain or shine, we make a point to hike one of the most spectacular trails on Earth. To our good fortune, this splendid place is just a few miles from our home on Montana's West Fork of the Stillwater River. Friend Lynn Pitet and Cookie pause on the trail. Even in a skiff of snow, we can safely maneuver from our gravel road to the blue highway that leads to the trail head of the hike to Lake Sioux Charley, named, many believe, to honor an Indian guide. The entire trail is 26 miles long, the first part following the river to the lake. The trail follows the Stillwater River for three-fourths of a mile, (trail number 24), goes to Sioux Charley Lake . The popular trail is much loved by hikers, horseback riders and tourists. THE HIKE into Sioux Charley in the  Beartooth Mountains is a pleasant six mile out-and-back hike. It takes lucky nature lovers past roaring cascades of the Stillwater River to a peaceful, wide stretch of the river perfect for a day hike and picnic. I've taken my watercolors many times, or the latest New Yorker. The trail begins at the Stillwater River Trailhead at the end of the road past the tiny town of Nye and the Stillwater Mine. Here, on the northern front of the Beartooth Mountains, behold a glorious sight. THE FIRST  half-mile of the hike leads wanderers through what we locals call the Stillwater Gorge. Its breathtaking features include tight cliffs on each side of the river with bird's eye views of  the churning river, boulders and waterfalls. This beautiful stretch makes the hike worthwhile, and leads to a tranquil meadow. A few have tried their luck on rafts and kayaks. Since an unfortunate fatality a few years ago, we have not seen rafters. People often meet horseback riders, and well behaved leashed dogs. Lovely wildflowers dot the way to the lake. One of the chief pleasures for me is stopping to "smell the roses" -- in the case of the Sioux Charley hike -- a gorgeous array of wildflowers along the path. We've seen bears and bighorns, too. The trail goes much farther, but most people only do 3.5 miles. We've never had a bad trip up the gorge. It's a family tradition and a treat for visitors. If you're our way, be our guests. UP NEXT : The Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone cares for both bears and wolves that cannot be returned to the wild.  This wonderful place is a fine educational tool for tourists and families. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for each weekend's post. A well tended wolf, rescued because he was injured, pauses in the Discovery Center after a meal, and is much admired and photographed.

Bruce Keller poses in one of the many intriguing spaces in the SCAD Museum of Art, where constantly changing exhibitions feature established and emerging artists from around the world.    SCAD: VISIONARY SCHOOL'S MUSEUM MIXES INNOVATION, IMAGINATION IN ARTFUL WELCOMING SPACE An installation by Patrick Dougherty is part of the landscape at the SCAD Museum of Art. Its weaving and bending of sticks is in a way a metaphor for the museum's intent. SCAD IS A WELL  known acronym in Savannah. Everyone recognizes Savannah College of Art and Design, because it is internationally famous. Art students from Iceland come here.  So do budding artists from Peru, Japan, Italy and many other countries. Multiple Oscar winners studied in SCAD's creative halls. Christene "Cookie" Meyers examines an interactive, playful piece using oranges to challenge the visitor. You can't walk a block in Savannah without seeing some SCAD reference, because the enterprise is  museum, school and community presence. With an emphasis on art and design, it has more programs than any other university in the country. This piece focuses on the lovely museum, which challenges the mind, bends notions and knocks stereotypes into the stratosphere. WE FOUND  during two visits an intriguing array of exhibitions, all designed to challenge the mind and refigure our ways of considering the old-fashioned meaning of "museum." Take for instance, the work of Patrick Dougherty. I first saw one of his graceful nature inspired installations in my native Montana at the Tippet Rise Art Center, a magical indoor-outdoor forum for art, music and nature. We were delighted to discover another of his installations in Savannah. "Making the Birds Proud," which -- like the Montana piece --  uses vernacular building techniques and tree saplings to create a welcoming, site-specific sculptural building that twists, towers, bends, coils, and soars. "Walk right in, have a look," it seems to say. At both Tippet Rise and the SCAD Museum of Art, Dougherty mixes his carpentry skills with his love for nature.  Other exhibits do this, too, in unique ways.  "Challenge" is the byword at the SCAD museum, where art, craftsmanship, and design open doors to the imagination and power of art, often encouraging participation from museum guests. This Erwin Wurm photo challenges the viewer to reconsider many things: style, fashion, balance, always with a sly sense of humor.   SCAD's buildings encompass a sweeping architectural range.   WE STOPPED AT  many works which invite touching and imagining in playful yet challenging ways. Just as Dougherty bends and weaves twigs and sticks into tangible shapes, SCAD Museum of Art weaves and bends the imagination, encouraging excellence and high standards. Among SCAD students, guest artists and lecturers are "audacious artists and fashion phenoms," Academy Award winners, Grammy Award recipients and Pulitzer Prize winners, all dedicated to SCAD's mission of exploring the arts in thoughtful, novel ways.  GENDERQUAKE,  for instance, invites viewers to acknowledge ways in which fashion influences culture.  Students find new ways to view and create, whether the medium be photographs or jewelry, music, film, television or furniture -- almost everything the human experience encompasses.   SCAD pushes the envelope, whether in its classes and projects and in the provocative exhibits at its museum. Consider Erwin  Wurm, our favorite guest artist.  His amusing and thought provoking pieces push the envelope, eliciting smiles even laughter. In one piece, a perfectly dressed, high-fashion male model balances artfully barefoot atop a horse -- reins in one hand, briefcase in the other. Among other varied and ever changing SCAD museum exhibits is one by Korean born artist Cindy Ji Hye Kim.  Her "Silhouettes in Lune" is an intriguing installation of paintings, sculptures, and a striking hand-drawn mural.  The open, airy exhibition spaces at SCAD's museum encourage taking time to reflect. NEARBY   ATLANTA is considered by many the Hollywood of the South, and that is due in great part to  SCAD. Its role in Georgia's growing film and television industry can't be over emphasized, because it is partly generated by an enthusiastic group of students and alumni from  SCAD. SCAD's influence reaches around Savannah, including a fun "Beach" retreat visited recently by Keller & Cookie.    Founded 45 years ago, SCAD has spent decades guiding and grooming students for Hollywood. The school proudly reports 43 SCAD grads from seven disciplines contributed to 11 Emmy-nominated shows, including "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel," "Ted Lasso" and "Succession." SCAD's film alumni have also produced many Oscar winning and Oscar nominated films including "Black Panther: Wakanda Forever" and "Avatar: The Way of Water." BEST BET:   If there's a way you can beam yourself to San Diego, an absolute "must see" production is "Chapatti," on the boards at Scripps Ranch Theatre.   Two terrific actors artfully deliver the lyrical script by Christian O'Reilly. The play tackles serious subjects -- including death and suicide.  But, in typical Irish form, its story unfolds with a perfect blend of humor and pathos. It's one of the top productions we've seen of hundreds in this talented corner of California.  "Chapatti" is both the name of Dan's dog and a popular Indian flatbread.  Betty is a lonely cat lover, who helps bring Dan back to the world of the living. The sensitive production captures the complex dynamic of loneliness and the human need for companionship on a charming, compact set. Broadway quality all the way.  scrippsranchtheatre.org    Tony DeSare headlines with the Desert Symphony   UP NEXT: A musical oasis in the desert! Come with us to Palm Desert, where 35 years ago a group of culture loving music fans organized a symphony orchestra.  Through the years, Desert Symphony has grown to produce a five-part season of popular  performances featuring some of America's best known performers, from Andy Williams and Jose Feliciano to the March 7 hit duo, Daniel Emmet and Pia Toscano, who rose to fame in "America's Got Talent" and headline the Symphony's gala. There's still time to book tickets to the Feb. 29 concert by Tony DeSare, noted singer-songwriter, known for his wide-ranging repertoire of Frank Sinatra favorites, with a bit of Billy Joel and Elton John in the mix. Remember  to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a unique spin on music, travel, nature, performance, family, the arts and more.  For tickets: desertsymphony.org  or 760 773-5988.      Daniel Emmet, Pia Toscano promise an evening of fun at Desert Symphony's March 7gala.

Savannah is famous for its inviting squares, beautiful oak trees and peaceful parks. The Capitol Building of Savannah is one of the many stately buildings in the city.  Besides government buildings, many historic homes can be visited. GLORIES AWAIT IN A TOWN FILLED WITH HISTORY, ART,  SQUARES AND  LIVELY TROLLEY TOURS TO BRING IT ALL TO LIFE The SCAD beach is a retreat and attraction for students and tourists. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Savannah must see wonders: If you’re searching for a destination that feels both timeless and effortlessly beautiful, Savannah, Georgia should be at the top of your list. With its cobblestone streets, moss-draped oak trees, and centuries-old architecture, Savannah invites you to slow down and savor every moment. Whether you’re wandering through its iconic historic squares, indulging in classic Southern cuisine, or taking in the sunset along the riverfront, this coastal city delivers an unforgettable travel experience filled with charm, history, and warmth. GEORGIA'S OLDEST city, Savannah, is a  gracious, welcoming town which honors its past while embracing the new. Historians claim that Savannah was spared during Sherman's march in December of 1864.  Some say he spared the beautiful city because his mistress lived there.  Others claim he was simply taken with Savannah's beauty.  In any case, Savannah surrendered without a siege. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pause at a Patrick Dougherty installation at SCAD -- the famed Savannah College of Art and Design. We know today's Savannah as both old fashioned and contemporary, a city of many faces.  It's famous worldwide for its stately, well preserved homes and inviting squares, hundreds of oaks with that artful Spanish moss,  gorgeous coastal landscapes, lively shops and restaurant, and a range of art galleries. Another two Savannah must see wonders are the marvelous contemporary art museum and lively shows at the historic Savannah Theatre. Savannah is considered America's first planned city because of British born James Oglethorpe's orderly squares marking the city. It was established in 1733. Savannah's Old Town Trolley is another Savannah must see and  delightful way to explore the city, with lively informative guides and many stops. THE PLENTIFUL squares 22 in total make it a beautiful and inviting walking town.  You can enjoy a beverage at dozens of restaurants and bars within easy reach of the squares, while admiring stylish architecture in Savannah's Historic District. Salute native son, composer Johnny Mercer at the Mercer-Williams House Museum. His great-grandfather built it and while he didn't actually live there,  he is honored in tour narration.  Readers of contemporary novels will remember the house and Monterey Square, made famous by the novel, “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.” The home and its palm trees have an air of eeriness that makes for an intriguing visit. Cemeteries, ghost stories, shadowy entry ways and creaking steps are part of Savannah's Old Town Trolley's Ghost Tour which we enjoyed. Talmadge Memorial Bridge is another one of the sights you'll see when you take a riverboat. Savannah Theatre is one of the country's oldest, with lively productions. The much used trolley also offers a daytime hop on/off historic district city tour -- our favorite -- with entertaining guides.  They offer interesting narrative as the trolley wends its way through the oak-lined streets and past the beautiful squares and buildings that distinguish this stately city. We loved this relaxing, informative tour, which covers famous landmarks including the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist and the Andrew Low House, where we learned of the patriarch's rise from rags to incredible riches. Mercer Williams House Museum is an elegant reminder of Savannah's graceful architecture.It  rocketed to fame with the best-selling Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil." OUR GUIDE  pointed out lovely Forsyth Park, a pinnacle of Savannah's beauty. We hopped off to stroll through 30 acres of live oak trees, and lush azaleas while admiring ornate Victorian mansions. The Waving Girl statue is of Florence Martus, Her sailor didn't return .  We spent the better part of two days on River Street, the city's oldest street, unique in many ways. This colorful but uneven walkway is picturesque, but a bit hard on the feet -- paved with 200 year old ballast-stones, artfully recycled from stones used to weigh down cotton ships. We dined often on this aptly named street with fun restaurants, boutiques and historical monuments. Our favorite is the Weeping Girl, who waved in vain at ships entering the harbor, hoping for a return of her sailor lover. More information: Trolleytours.com 912-226-6805 Savannahriverboat.com 912 232-6404 Savannahtheatre.com 912 233-7764 Scad.edu Kualoa Ranch on the island of Oahu is an historic, family run enterprise dedicated to preserving Hawaii's history and culture while offering fun activities for all ages. NEXT UP:  Kualoa Ranch awaits.  A unique, environmentally  sensitive enterprise has preserved respect for the land on the island of Oahu for generations, since 1850. The family-run working ranch offers an array of activities, from horseback riding to biking, zip lines, a farm tour and a tour of locations for movies made on the island. Great fun for couples, families or adventure loving friends. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on travel, family, the arts, nature and more.

Charleston's marina is a busy but peaceful place with shops, restaurants, 17,000 linear feet of dock space for both motorized boats and sailing vessels. It's a beautiful place to stroll, too. CHARLESTON: CITY OF CONTRASTS AND BEAUTY WHERE OLD MEETS NEW, ART AND MUSIC ABOUND, BOATING, SPORTS, MUSEUMS, FINE DINING VIE FOR  THE VISITOR'S ATTENTION    STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER If you're dreaming of cobblestone streets, pastel-colored homes, and a coastal city packed with history, Charleston delivers on every level. This Charleston South Carolina travel guide is designed especially for first-time visitors looking to experience the best things to do in Charleston South Carolina From strolling through the historic district to discovering unforgettable local food spots. Whether you're planning a quick weekend getaway or building a longer Southern road trip, Charleston blends charm, culture, and cuisine in a way that feels both timeless and effortlessly inviting. This vintage home displays the popular and time honored "haint blue" southern tradition. CHARLESTON, South Carolina, is a city of contrasts. You'll find modern shopping centers and new hotels, skyscrapers, horse drawn carriages and genteel homes from the Civil War era. It boasts a beautiful harbor, the fort where the Civil War began and a gaceful bridge, the Ravenel Bridge, named after Arthur Ravenel Jr., a successful South Carolina businessman who served four terms in the U.S. House of Representatives. Christene (Cookie) Meyers and Bruce Keller at sunset under the Ravenel Bridge.   The spectacular bridge --   also known as the Cooper River Bridge, is one of many attractions to this attractive town of only 151,000. The bridge is cable-stayed, the third longest in the U.S., and connects downtown Charleston to Mount Pleasant. It is designed to carry 100,000 vehicles per day, a number experts say it will reach before 2030. Last count, more than 97,000 vehicles a day crossed the bridge, which includes a well shared bicycle and pedestrian path. You'll likely transit it when you visit this charming port city, founded in 1670. It is defined by its cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages and pastel antebellum houses, particularly in the elegant French Quarter and Battery districts.  Both Battery Promenade and Waterfront Park overlook Charleston Harbor, while Fort Sumter, a federal stronghold where the first shots of the Civil War rang out, lies across the water. You'll see it on the harbor tour we recommend later. Charleston from the water at night, a pretty sight . The Charleston Princess gives visitors a thorough look at the harbor and coastline, from Fort Sumter and the bridge. WE ASKED  about the significance of the many pale blue ceilings we saw on Charleston porches. Why that color? You'll find out on a Charleston city tour, as we did with our delightful guide, Alan Rosenfeld. He gives a unique and entertaining city tour, explaining that the color, known as "haint blue," is associated with the  Gullah Geechee people, descendants of enslaved Africans in parts of Georgia and the Carolinas. The word derives from their language and means ghost.  The Gullah people have maintained a rich cultural heritage. Among their traditions was the belief that haint blue repels haints, or ghosts. You'll find the color on thousands of southern porches. African inspired crafts are part of the culture and often seen at fairs and markets.  Established as Charles Town in honor of King Charles II of England, Charleston adopted its present name in 1783. Charleston's streets are defined by attractive, tree lined boulevards and parks.    St. Michael's Anglican Church is one of the city's historic buildings. THE CITY is  home to the Charleston Symphony and many arts related events including an annual Wine and Food Festival, Charleston Fashion Week, Festival of Houses and Gardens, Flowertown Festival, High Water Festival and the MOJA Arts Festival, celebrating black arts and culture. For 17 days and nights each spring, the famed Spoleto Festival USA fills Charleston's historic theaters, churches, and outdoor spaces Piccolo Spoleto Festival and a well known Southeastern Wildlife Exposition are also popular events. A FUN OPTION is a tour of Charleston's historic homes.  Conde Nast offers a good one, hitting the city's best known and nicely maintained relics of a bygone era. (Link at story's end.)    Discover Savannah's charms The Citadel, Army National Guard, is on a unique driving tour we enjoyed . Fort Sumter is on most visitor's "must see" lists. The attack on the fort began the  American Civil War which lasted four years and cost the lives of more than 620,000 Americans. It also freed 3.9 million enslaved people from bondage. THE CITY  made the news with another shooting for it is the scene of the 2015 mass shooting at Mother Emanuel AME Church. The gunman, a white supremacist, entered the church, stayed for the service, then killed nine parishioners. Racism exists in Charleston, and in every town in America. But our New Jersey born guide, who is happily transplanted and loves Charleston, considers it a welcoming place with a pleasant mix of people from around the country. Cookie rings the bell of the Princess. WE NOTICED very little overt racism, but chatting with people of color, we learned that there is still subtle discrimination. "Inevitable, I think," one waiter told us. "People and old ideas and ways are changing, slowly but surely." Excellent tour guide Alan Rosenfeld gives a lively overview. Book him at charlestonharbortours.com . MORE INFORMATION: www.charlestonharbortours.com www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-historic-house-tours-in-charleston www.expedia.com/Things-To-Do-In-Charleston.d179997.Travel-Guide-Activities    BEST BETS: Fans of the great jazz singer Billie Holiday have just a few performances to catch Karole Foreman in the title role in "Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill." Written by Lanie Robertson, it's at Cygnet Theatre in Old Town, San Diego. This stunning two-person show features virtuoso pianist Damon Carter as Jimmy Powers, Holiday's accompanist, friend and confidant, who keeps Billie on point while the tunes seamlessly roll. Carter is musical director for the show, which features Foreman singing many of the singer's best known songs with a running commentary on her loves, losses and the racism, drinking and drug abuse that shadowed her life. Foreman truly captures Holiday, with all her gifts, lip and demons. It's a stunning piece of theater which left us absolutely mesmerized for 90  minutes. Wren T. Brown directs, from Ebony Repertory Theatre of Los Angeles. Worth a trip to San Diego from wherever you are -- even the moon! 619-337-1525, cygnettheatre.com . SCAD's Museum of Art offers beautifully curated exhibitions, including both famous and emerging artists. You'll want to spend several hours in this artful, open, beautifully curated space. UP NEXT : SCAD. That's the word in Savannah if you are interested in art. Savannah College of Art and Design has an international reputation and attracts students and artists from around the globe.  We spent an entertaining afternoon at the the SCAD Museum of Art, a  premier contemporary art museum  featuring emerging and established international artists through commissioned works and rotating exhibitions. We'll take you there next week, with photos sure to draw a smile. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, music, travel, nature, family and more.

Watching beautiful bears scamper, play and eat is a pleasure offered by West Yellowstone's Discovery Center. The animals within this extraordinary complex cannot be safely returned to the wild, so live out their days in care. RESCUED ANIMALS FIND NEW LEASE ON LIFE, PROVIDING NATURE LOVERS WITH CLOSE-UP LOOK AT MAGNIFICENT WILD CREATURES  . Sam is the king of the walk at the Discovery Center; he is the largest resident. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE LEARNED SO  much in an afternoon at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center that we wanted to return the next day. Fortunately, the admission ticket to this fine West Yellowstone, Montana, venue allows that. Observant ravens and crows are on hand at the Center, too, gobbling up the scraps of food after the bears and wolves have their fill. The open, airy and nicely designed Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center is one of the "don't miss" pleasures of a trip to the nation's first national park, Yellowstone. The not-for-profit wildlife park is a truly  educational facility, opened nearly a quarter-century ago. Workers have stashed food around the park's ample grounds. Now the bears are smelling out the stash -- and having lunch. SINCE 1993 , the center  has attracted an international clientele of  families and school groups.  The sunny autumn day of our recent visit, we joined several dozen others to get a close-up look at critters who -- for various reasons -- cannot make it on their own in the wild. This beautiful grey wolf is enjoying the late afternoon sun of a fine autumn day. Two packs inhabit the wildlife center.  The Yellowstone Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center park offers lectures and discussions, with experts describing the habits of the critters and the dangers they can pose when humans get too close. Snow has come to Yellowstone, blanketing the pine and fir trees in cloaks of white. Yellowstone Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center Open a remarkable 365 days a year, the Center offers visitors to Yellowstone a chance to quietly observe and experience a connection to the world of grizzly bears and gray wolves. OUR GUIDE  called the animals    "lucky ambassadors for their wild counterparts.'' Tickets are $13 adults, $12.25, kids $8 seniors, $8 for youngsters, and under three, children are free. For more information: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org UP NEXT:  Winter in Yellowstone.  Come with us on snow coaches to a world of white and wonder.  And, oh, yes, it is verrrrrrrry cold, so dress warmly.  For several months of the year, the most stunning marvels of the park can only be experienced by snow coach. It's a winter wonderland and extraordinary time to visit. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and check us out each Friday for a fresh and lively look at travel, nature, family and the arts.

Bison graze throughout the park, alongside thermal pools and geysers that make the park famous. A TRIBUTE: HAPPY BIRTHDAY, YELLOWSTONE, OUR NATION'S FIRST NATIONAL PARK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Morning Glory Pool is a steamy thermal pool, accessible near Old Faithful Lodge on wooden walking paths. THE NATION'S FIRST  national park -- Yellowstone -- celebrates a big birthday this week.  One hundred fifty years ago, Yellowstone was created, signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant. President Theodore Roosevelt loved the park, and the Roosevelt Arch honors him, a triumphal landmark at the park's north entrance in Gardiner, Montana. Roosevelt laid the cornerstone in 1903, noting that the national parks were created "to preserve and protect the scenery, cultural heritage, wildlife, geologic and ecological systems in their natural condition for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations." Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pose by Yellowstone Park's entry sign near Gardiner. President Theodore Roosevelt famously laid the cornerstone of the country's first national park in 1903. Yellowstone is the park service's  crowning achievement, and our country's first such park. Thank you Teddy and U.S. Grant for this gigantic gift to the world. Whenever we go to the park, we make a game of listing the languages we hear: French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Dutch, Thai, Mandarin, Japanese, Norwegian, and accents of visitors from Australia, New Zealand and the United Kingdom. It's always a mini United Nations in the restaurants, bars, hotels and gift shops, as people come from thousands of miles away to view the land where Native Americans hunted, fished, gathered plants, quarried obsidian and used the healing thermal waters for religious and medicinal purposes. OUR FAVORITE corners of the park aren't the most visited ones. While we enjoy all the major attractions, too -- the Upper and Lower Falls, Geyser Basin and more -- it's fun to pull off on one of the quieter, less frequented  scenic views to simply revel in the magnificence.  To behold 3,500 square miles of wilderness is one of our top recreational treats. The cascading Lower Falls makes an ear-popping sound as it flows into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The mighty Yellowstone River and beautiful Yellowstone Lake are part of the park's landscape, too. The river flows north from Yellowstone Lake,  leaving the Hayden Valley and plunging first over Upper Yellowstone Falls and then a quarter mile downstream where it gushes   over Lower   Yellowstone Falls.  There, it enters the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, which is nearly 1,000 feet deep. Beautiful, renovated Lake Hotel, the park's oldest overnight facility, also has a lovely restaurant. The park sits atop a volcanic hot spot, with a splendid array of  canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers, including its most famous, Old Faithful, which isn't quite as reliable in its spouting as it was when I was growing up. Still, when it blows, it's magnificent. VYING FOR our attention are a variety of the park's abundant wildlife. Yellowstone is home to hundreds of species, including bears, wolves, bison, elk and antelope. We never fail to spot at least a couple of these -- always bison and often elk, antelope and bear.  We've seen wolves a few treasured times and heard their haunting cry in Lamar Valley, in the park's northern reaches. Those were wondrous events. Lamar Valley is a tranquil, lovely part of the park. Here, bison graze and drink, framed by plains and mountains.  It's fun to share the road, too, with a herd of bison, who amble right near the cars and stop traffic periodically, causing rangers to move traffic along and encourage animals back onto the grasses. SINCE HALF the world's hydrothermal features are found at Yellowstone, we love to get out of the car a couple times each visit and walk the wooden paths to see the geysers and hot pots close-up.  It's not just visual.  It's smelly. No visit is complete without breathing in the glorious “rotten egg” odor at a hot pot, especially Mud Volcano, which gives off that familiar sulfuric odor.  The pungent smell is the result of microorganisms eating away at sulfur, creating sulfuric acid. As that evaporates, a park ranger explained, "the acid becomes hydrogen sulfide gas, which gives off the noxious smell." Besides Mud Volcano, two other "stinky spots" are the   Dragon's Mouth and Sulphur Caldron area between Fishing Bridge and Canyon. We fed the bears in my 1950s childhood -- now we know better. Again, odorous but opulent. The smells are part of Yellowstone, and the visual grandeur more than makes up for the pungent odor. THE PARK'S HISTORY dates back 11,000 years, when native American tribes and bands used the park as their home, hunting grounds, and transportation routes prior to and after European American arrival. Yellowstone was established as the world's first national park in 1872. It was dedicated several decades later. The most common misconception about Yellowstone is that it's overdue for an eruption. But volcanoes don't work like that, experts say. In the past two million years, volcanic eruptions have occurred in the Yellowstone area—three of them super eruptions. I remember well the devastating 7.5 earthquake of August, 1959. It knocked paintings off the walls of our home in Columbus, Montana, killed 28 people and caused $11 million in damage. A piece of driftwood frames this photo of Yellowstone Lake, 7,732 feet above sea level with 110 miles of shoreline. Rick Cosgriffe, center, with his sister, Christene and partner Jane Milder at Yellowstone's Lower Falls. MUCH OF THE damage occurred as a result of a huge landslide triggered by the quake. It buried campers, trailers, wildlife and people near Hebgen Lake. A geologist friend said that more earthquakes like the Hebgen Lake event are unlikely within the Yellowstone caldera itself, "because subsurface temperatures there are high, weakening the bedrock and making it less able to rupture." Quakes within the caldera can be as large as magnitude 6.5. A quake of about this size that occurred in 1975 near Norris Geyser Basin was felt throughout the region. MEANWHILE, don't live in fear. Enjoy the wonder and thank our government which 150 years ago had the vision to protect and preserve Yellowstone National Park.In so doing, we set an example for the rest of the world. Masks are still required in Yellowstone and there is a variety of lodging, from rustic to elegant.  For more information: www.nps.gov/yell/ To book a stay : www.usparklodging.com/yellowstone/ Hilton Garden Inn is a quiet, restful and beautifully decorated choice for lodging on Kauai. UP NEXT : Hidden gems await on the verdant and peaceful shores of Hawaii's "Garden Isle," Kauai. Come with us to this westernmost of the Hawaiian Islands chain and settle at Kauai's graciously appointed Hilton Garden Inn. A favorite of many, this laid back yet elegant resort offers easy access to a tropical rainforest, boating and airplane tours, hiking trails, fine dining, gorgeous unpeopled beaches and delightful coffee plantations. Our time on stunning Wailua Bay near Lihue, remains sacred in our hears for the peace it offers. Come along to admire dramatic cliffs of Kauai's Na Pali Coast, to gaze at the magnificent Sleeping Giant mountain ridge and take in a spectacular fire show at the hotel or just sit in the soothing earth-and-sea colors of the Garden Inn lobby. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family, loss, love and more. www.whereiscookie.com

Owner Jay Garnett of Surfing Goat Dairy in Maui has his hands full.  After decades in the corporate world in his native Canada, he took over the enterprise in 2023. He is involved in all aspects of the growing operation -- from customer service to tours, goat health, cheese manufacturing and more. CREATIVE ENDEAVOR WITH GOATS IS PERFECT FIT FOR ALBERTA BORN ENTREPRENEUR  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS  PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  Bruce Keller smiles as a young goat tries to munch on his colorful Hawaiian shirt. Why see Goats on Maui IF YOU LOVE  goats, you will be in billy goat heaven at Maui's lively Surfing Goat Dairy. It's an appealing place to spend a few hours. We toured with manager-owner Jay Garnett, who bought the business from a German couple in 2023. They retired, leaving a legacy of goats, surf boards, and a successful dairy which Garnett is expanding in creative ways. The project came together as Garnett was recovering from a polo accident and had time to research his plan to make a life change. Doing his homework, he found the Maui place for sale and began negotiations. The rest is history. GARNETT IS  hands on literally. He feeds the goats, delivers their babies, arranges tours, caters lunches and tastings, sweeps, milks, shovels poop and repairs what needs fixing. He is an idea man, people oriented and constantly expanding the business. Maui goats are delightful tourist attractions. He works with the dairy's veterinarian to give the guys and gals their vaccinations. His intuition and eagle eye -- call it goat ESP -- can detect if one of the herd needs attention, doctoring or other special care. He has assisted in delivering hundreds of kids -- including several sets of twins and even triplets.  He also acts as chief  marketer for the dairy's fabulous goat cheese and goat truffles. Check out turtles, wildlife in Hawaii HOW DID the place its catchy name? "The German couple who started it in 1999 shared two interests -- goats and wind surfing. The name was catchy and it fits the spirit of island life," says Garnett, who owns and manages the place with a small group of Canadian investors. He took over the enterprise a few years ago, with high hopes. He also admits to a sentimental attachment to Maui, where he was married 30 years ago.  Moving to the verdant slopes of this beautiful part of Hawaii, he has made it grow by goat leaps and bounds. The original owners retired nearby and Thomas and Eva Kafsack, occasionally come to visit and keep an eye on the progress of their pet project, Garnett says. "Eva considers the goats her children." She, like Garnett, likes to hand-feeds the goats, and Garnett has learned as Eva did to be midwife, helping deliver the newborns in birthing frenzies when the females go into labor en masse. "They tend to give birth at the same time, so the place can be really jumping," Garnett says. He recalls one birthing period when he   helped deliver more than two dozen kids over a period of just a few hectic, demanding hours. Garnett, 53, is a man of broad and varied interests. He has had his hand in myriad businesses -- coffee growing, online grocery operations and liquor imports. He once helped a cannabis company go public. The subtle flavors of the Surfing Goat Dairy cheeses have won acclaim and awards. He got into the goat business because it interested him. "It has so many facets," he said. "I like doing whatever needs to be done on the farm. Every day is new  Jay Garnett is always on the go, here making sure tourists are entertained as he plays with the goats. -- always something different. He demonstrates this by excusing himself from the goat pens to step behind the counter and arrange catering plates for a reception. SURFING GOAT Dairy is nestled near Kula, on the slopes of Haleakala in what is called "Maui’s Upcountry." Maui’s largest commercial dairy is known throughout the islands. "We are a culinary and ag-tourism haven where visitors are welcome to experience the magic of cheese-making," says Garnett.  We joined a couple tours, part of the interactive goat experience. Our trek around the grounds included watching workers in the dairy, visiting the truffle counter, sampling delectable goat cheeses, playing with the kids.  The dairy has won awards for its gourmet goat cheeses, always in high demand. "And we're proud of our gourmet truffles," says Garnett.  "We're committed to quality, flavor, and the spirit of aloha." The subtle flavors, he says, are developed from the combination of uncommon breeds and the rich land that nourishes them. Surfing Goat Dairy offers appealing, entertaining tours, award winning cheese and delightful viewing. GARNETT IS  also making structural changes to improve the property, expanding the existing store, increasing its offerings and building space for new products. The unique goat cheeses are popular all around the area, with much of the business going to restaurants and eateries. "We're always looking at new products, new markets," he says. Maui aquarium one of world's finest MORE THAN 25,000 tourists came to the farm last year. We also visited nearby attractions -- the Aliʻi Kula Lavender farm and Ocean Vodka. The changes Garnett is making will increase tourism for his enterprise, he hopes, adding a tasting area and sprucing up the reception space. He combines An impressive array of truffles awaits visitors.  his sharp eye and creative instincts with a love of nature, all of which add appeal. His busy staff is on the go and he supervises. Someone is always planting flowers, tidying up the space. The intention is to pump up the user friendly angle. "I'm people oriented. I think what I would like to see if I were visiting a place for the first time," he says, between wrestling a playful goat into a pen and instructing tourists on the proper way to pick up a young kid." (Use both arms and always support the critter's frame.) It's a magical place, sure to open your heart and mind to the wonderful world of goats. Click here for more on the dairy    Fireworks on Oahu, a Fourth of July tradition. Waikiki Beach is aglow. UP NEXT: Fourth of July fun is on tap. Celebrations, parades, barbecues, reunions, shenanigans, fireworks and more are planned next week as our country -- and Americans in other parts of the world -- celebrate the Fourth of July week. Tourists hit the road, families gather and people relax and celebrate our country's official birthday. Pride in the heritage of our great nation can be felt and seen and the USA is not the only place where fireworks celebrate our Fourth of July. Ex-pat enclaves, like the one in Paris, have fireworks celebrations, too. We'll take you to some of them as we live, laugh and learn.  Check us out for a fresh weekly spin on travel, nature, performance and the arts. Please share our links with like minded people:   Click here for more whereiscookie.com