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"Big Mike" greets visitors to the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman, reopened since June. BOZEMAN's BOOMING: MONTANA'S FASTEST GROWING CITY BLENDS BOHEMIAN, COLLEGIATE AND CITY INFLUENCES  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Snow can last into the summer on the peaks above the pretty town of Bozeman, Montana. I SPENT the first months of my life in Bozeman, where my parents were university students. They lived in a Quonset hut from World War II, which was recycled to provide married student housing. I've nurtured a lifelong fondness for this lively and picturesque town of 40,000. Beautiful Bozeman's population has increased by 20 per cent since 2012 making it the state's fastest growing town by far. What attracts people to this place?  Perhaps the call of nature, for one can hear elk bugle in the suburbs.  The occasional black bears wanders into town and terrific fly fishing attracts both tourists and locals.  Restaurants offer variety, including tasty ethnic fare as well as good old western cooking.  And since the 1860s when prospectors opened up the Bozeman Trail, this lovely part of the Gallatin Valley north of Yellowstone has been a road trip stop-over.  The drive from Bozeman, past Big Sky to West Yellowstone, offers many scenic stops. Lure of Big Sky Country BOZEMAN, MONTANA is popular with tourists in both summer and winter. Direct flights come from many major U.S. cities including Boston, Detroit, Atlanta, Nashville, Dallas, Denver, Newark and Houston. The Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport is in Belgrade, a quick eight miles northwest of Bozeman. It's owned by the Gallatin Airport Authority and is the busiest airport in Montana.  Even in Covid-19 times, Bozeman's thriving tourism and outdoors-related economies have held their own. It's the county seat of Gallatin County, famous for gorgeous views of the mountains, spectacular sports and nature access. Another draw is Bozeman's proximity to the country's oldest national park, Yellowstone. Bozeman's International Airport is in Belgrade, busy with many direct flights to big U.S. cities.    It also hosts the wonderful Museum of the Rockies, Gallatin County Museum and the American Computer and Robotics Museum. Hollywood has discovered the Gallatin Valley, too.  Many award winning, big budget films have been shot there, including scenes from "A River Runs Through It" and "Far and Away." Fittingly, film star Gary Cooper was born in Helena and finished high school in Bozeman. Fly fishing in "A River Runs Through It" In 1864, English born W.W. Alderson described Montana’s Gallatin Valley as “one of the most beautiful and picturesque valleys the eye ever beheld, abounding in springs of clear water.” In the late 1800’s many agreed, calling it “The Egypt” or “The Garden Spot of Montana.” The Gallatin Valley has attracted an array of film makers. Motion pictures shot here include "A River Runs Through It," above.  The fame of the region dates back to April of 1805, when captains Meriwether Lewis and William Clark and the Corps of Discovery entered what is today Montana. Over five months, they traveled up the Missouri and Jefferson rivers and along the Bitterroot Mountains, making some of the most significant discoveries of their epic adventure. Clark made a map of the Gallatin Valley, showing the three forks of the Missouri, the valley's “level open plain,” and the snow covered Bridger mountains. (Lewis and Clark split their party on the return trip, so Lewis could explore north of Great Falls, while Clark explored the Yellowstone.) Not far from Bozeman is West Yellowstone, one of five entrances to Yellowstone National Park and bison viewing.  BIG SKY, that booming resort where Montana born TV newsman Chet Huntley broke ground in 1967, is only 32 miles away. It opened with a flourish in 1973.  The award winning anchorman of Huntley-Brinkley fame had suffered a midlife crisis, moved to the mountains of Montana and created this resort town under the dreamy banner, Big Sky.  He said in an interview with Life magazine, "Maybe where there's clarity of air, there's clarity of thought." Could be..... It's only 82 miles from Big Sky to Old Faithful, and an hour's drive to the closest park entrance, West Yellowstone. Many tourists base in Big Sky to tour the park, and it's a favorite drive of locals. The foliage is beginning to turn golden, with splashes of red as Montana and the northern Rockies head into autumn. UP NEXT : Autumn imagery in the west is a spectacular blend of oranges, yellows, and bits of red.  As leaves are turning, ranchers are moving their cattle to their winter pastures. Bears are feasting on the last of the chokecherries and there's a definite nip in the air. Explore this changing time, with sunrises and sunsets, and enjoy the beautiful autumn scenery wherever you area. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at nature, travel, family, the arts and more: whereiscookie.com

Cookie shops for produce on an annual autumn road trip, here at a stand in the San Juaquin Valley.   THANKS TO FARMERS, WORKERS, FINE WEATHER, IRRIGATION FOR YEAR-ROUND BOUNTY  OF PRODUCE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Rows and rows of farmland being worked meet the eye near Bakersfield. DRIVING THROUGH California's Central Valley gives the tourist time to reflect on the importance of this fertile stretch of land and the hard working men and women who toil in the soil. It's truly the salad bowl of America, growing tasty tomatoes, broccoli, beans, carrots, peas, celery, eggplant, herbs, and all manner of citrus, tree fruits, nuts, table grapes and grapes for wine. THIS BEAUTIFUL and important stretch of land -- one of the most fertile in the world -- extends inland from and parallel to the Pacific Ocean between coastal mountains and the Rockies. It makes up 11 per cent of California, covering 18,000 square miles and yielding half of the nation's produce. If you enjoy green peppers in your scrambled eggs, homemade vegetable soup, guacamole or something more exotic, chances are it came from this part of California. That's thanks to an estimated half-million farmworkers -- some estimates are as high as 800,000 -- many from Mexico and Asia. Farmer's markets are a huge recipient of the bounty. James Hayes washes his daily harvest at California's Purple Martin Farm.  THIS ERA BEGAN  began as a reaction to canned and frozen foods in post World War II America.  California cuisine emerged as a chef-driven movement highlighting fresh seasonal produce. It introduced America to a new way to cook, encouraging fresh ingredients. While Boston based Julia Child was teaching us to use fresh produce in French cooking, the west coast brought us Alice Waters, America's farm-to-table pioneer and founder of Edible Schoolyard.  This farmer's market is in Oxnard, California,  the number of operating farmers markets  has more than tripled in the last decade.  In 1971, she opened Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, and served only organic and locally sourced foods. She, like Child, studied in France, and America's culinary renaissance borrowed large chapters from both French and Italian cooking. OUR NEPHEW  James Hayes, and his partner Kelle Martin, run a small produce operation on their farm in northern California -- not part of the central "salad bowl" but typical of many of the small farm-to-table businesses which supply fresh vegetables and herbs for local restaurants. More and more restaurants are proudly touting their use of locally sourced ingredients -- and many restaurants now even have their own herb gardens, supplemented by direct acquisition from farmers. These food trends naturally influence how we eat today. A Hmong worker is among thousands who help feed us.   A farm to table meal served by James Hayes and Kelle Martin at their farm near Point Arena. They grew everything but the lamb. THE CENTRAL Valley is really two valleys: the San Joaquin to the south and Sacramento to the north. Nearly 450 miles long, the valleys extend from Bakersfield up to Redding, 60 miles at the widest. The area is as large as nine of our country's smaller states and is the world’s largest patch of "Class 1 soil," the best there is. The 25-degree or less temperature swing from day to night is an ideal growing range for plants and the sun   shines nearly 300 days a year.   HOW DID this arid chaparral land bloom? With water. More than 7 million acres of the valleys are irrigated via an extensive system of reservoirs and canals. The region's major cities include the state capital Sacramento, as well as Chico, Redding, Stockton, Modesto, Fresno and Bakersfield.  Two rivers -- the Sacramento and the San Joaquin -- drain their respective valleys and meet to form the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, a large expanse of interconnected canals, stream beds, sloughs, marshes and peat islands. The delta empties eventually into San Francisco Bay and ultimately the Pacific Ocean. A drive through the valley renews one's appreciation for the beautiful nutritious food we take for granted. Alex Trebek on his 79th birthday last year, a few months after he announced his cancer diagnosis.  UP NEXT:  As we mourn the loss of "Jeopardy" host Alex Trebek, we wonder who will replace the dapper TV personality who waged a valiant war with pancreatic cancer and died Sunday morning. Speculation on his replacement has risen and while there will never be another Trebek, the show will go on. We remember our visits to the "Jeopardy" studio and our time with Trebek. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more: whereiscookie.com

If you visit Yellowstone National Park on a warm winter day between snowstorms you'll see bison  snacking on the grass that must sustain them until the spring rains bring fresh grazing material. PARK'S WONDERS UNFOLD IN A CLOAK OF SNOW, ICE AND STEAM Keller and Cookie enjoy a winter trip to the park each year. Here, they hopped from the snow coach for a look at the frozen river. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER YOU'LL SHARE  Yellowstone's wonders with its four-footed inhabitants if you venture into the country's first national park this winter. There's no better way to celebrate the breakthrough with COVID, and hope for a healthier, more normal 2021. The glorious hot pools in Yellowstone are a  wondrous sight with the steam and snow. Christene "Cookie" Meyers, left, awaits entry to the coach. In Yellowstone National Park, winter means seeing the park in a new light -- fewer crowds, frigid temperatures, and steaming geyser basins.  No shorts and t-shirts. Jackets, tights, warm boots.  FOR A FEW  months each winter, snow coaches are the only vehicles to traverse the park's inner roads.  "Oversnow" travel  means snowmobiles and snow coaches, the only travel allowed.  The season ends in mid-March, when plowing crews begin clearing a winter's worth of snow. Down the road, as spring comes around mid-April, temperatures begin to climb, roads start re-opening and normal cars can begin touring.   Meanwhile, beginning around this time of year in mid-December, roads in Yellowstone open to limited snowmobile and snow coach travel. This means the only way to visit the park's iconic wonders -- including Old Faithful, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and other geysers, hot pots, steaming cauldrons and canyons -- is by guided snowmobile or snow coach, or through the non-commercially guided snowmobile access program. Most stores, restaurants, campgrounds, and lodges are closed during winter.  Hiking, snowshoeing, nature viewing,  bird watching await in a winter park experience.  A series of warming huts are open for cross-country skiing, and ranger-led programs are offered periodically for winter guests at Old Faithful and Mammoth Hot Springs. (Check the websites because the hotels are not scheduled to reopen until winter of 2021.) Park partners and other businesses offer guided activities and trips during winter, and there are "COVID" precautions in effect. WE FOUND  our winter snow coach tour through Yellowstone offered a remarkable connection with nature in a winter wonderland I'd not seen in my many trips through the park. We spotted wildlife at a relaxed pace and were warm, even cozy, inside our coach. It's a much different experience than the summer-autumn visits I've enjoyed all my life. Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel is a rustic get-away in winter. It is closed because of Covid, but park officials say the plan is to reopen later this spring. Winter in Yellowstone does indeed deliver, as the brochures promise, "a more intimate experience" -- fascinating snowy landscapes, and frosty animals. We could see steam from the bisons' mouths as they grazed in a plain where snows had melted and nearly vanished. Keller and Nick enjoy R&R in  Kelly Inn in West Yellowstone. WE STAYED  in two places, two different winter sojourns: Old Faithful Snow Lodge and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. But COVID has thrown a wrench in in-the-park lodging. You can stay in West Yellowstone, where we recommend  Kelly Inn for its comfy, western inspired rooms, pet-friendly ambience and closeness to the wonders of the park. When Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel opens again, it provides a rustic wintertime place to stay, and a 10-minute walk from Mammoth Hot Springs, Geyser basins and hot pools take on an other-worldly look, induced by cold temperatures. One might call them canvases of fire and ice. The winter experience also offers opportunity for photography, skiing, snowshoeing and wildlife watching. Explore the winter experience through lodging, snowcoach tours, skiing and snowshoeing, packages, and snowcoach transportation. yellowstonevacations.com/guided-tours/snowcoach-tours-wy ; yellowstonekellyinn.com/ Alex Trebek's final "Jeopardy" show airs Jan. 8, followed by a tribute package celebrating the popular host's legacy. UP NEXT:    Alex Trebek's final "Jeopardy" episode airs Friday, Jan. 8, so we celebrate the life and legacy of this master wordsmith, congenial host and compassionate, brave human being. We have some inside info on the future of the popular game show as well. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each Friday for a fresh look at the arts, nature, travel, family and more. Please share the link with like minded friends: whereiscookie.com

Butte, Montana, native Evel Knievel tried a jump in this spectacular canyon in Twin Falls, Idaho. Jumpers enjoy a tamer form of entertainment --  still with an element of danger. This is  a popular adventure at the bridge. TWIN FALLS MUSEUM PAYS HOMAGE TO PIONEERS, PROGRESS AND A MONTANA BORN DAREDEVIL STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THERE'S SOMETHING attractive about a daredevil. Even when we know know there's danger involved in his recklessness, we watch -- fascinated, if a little afraid.  And so it was for millions of us watching Evel Knievel 46 years ago -- on Sept. 8, 1974.  That's the date when, with much media fanfare, the famous daredevil attempted his most ambitious feat. He failed to leap the mile-wide chasm of the Snake River Canyon in Twin Falls, Idaho, on his specially engineered rocket motorcycle. Gravity and a malfunctioning parachute cut his death-defying jump from 1,600 feet to 500 feet but Knievel still made $6 million from the stunt. The Twin Falls Visitor Center is worth a visit. HE ATTEMPTED his leap employing a unique "skycycle" which he helped design.  The stunt made him a household name around the world -- he was already a star in my native Montana.  Although few knew his birth name -- Robert Craig Knievel -- everyone knew "Evel" Knievel and we were proud of our Treasure State's most famous daredevil.  In his life he attempted more than 75 ramp-to-ramp motorcycle jumps and was inducted into the Motorcycle Hall of Fame in 1999.  Some of the more famous include flying over the fountain at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas, jumping over busses at London's Wembley Stadium, and that abortive trip across the Snake River Canyon in his wild, steam-powered vehicle.  Now,  just past 13 years since his death on Nov. 30, 2007, in his Florida home, we celebrate this Butte, Montana, native, for his guts,  daring and his sense of showmanship. A bronze statue pays tribute to Idaho Falls champion and founder Ira Burton Perrine. Thoughtfully planned walking and viewing areas lure tourists to enjoy the Snake River from on high near the well designed and modern Idaho Visitor Center. Butte born, Knievel came full circle. His grave site is in his hometown of Butte, south of town in a grove of trees. His tombstone, with its cartoon rocket car, was chiseled in 1974 and ready in the event that he perished duringn his much publicized jump attempt over the Snake River Canyon. Evel lived through many broken bones acquired in his crazy stunts. His last leap was a gentle one, s to his rocket car tombstone in 2007 at age 69.   Knievel's Idaho jump   WHILE KNIEVEL is a star at the Visitor Center, Twin Falls is equally proud of its founder, Ira Burton Perrine, who is immortalized in a lovely bronze and gave the bridge its name. The center also has an artfully displayed souvenir and gift shop featuring locally-sourced products. There are also a variety of exhibits showcasing the natural features and history of the region. An interpretive center includes a display of settler and civic booster Perrine stagecoach, exhibits about the agricultural history and geology of the Snake River Canyon, and a pleasing array of photos  and information about the abundant recreational opportunities in the area. Although he was born in Montana, Evel Knievel is immortalized in Idaho, near the site of one of his few failed jumps. His Butte tombstone also carries his famous "rocket cycle" logo. A tribute to Evel Knievel is one of the   interesting displays . The Center also serves as a centralized location for exhibits about the Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument, Minidoka National Historic Site, Craters of the Moon National Monument and City of Rocks National Reserve.  DURING OUR  visit, folks were relaxing on the center grounds, and hiking a well developed trail system. We wandered up to a scenic overlook along the Snake's canyon and watched as jumper parachute from the 486-foot-tall Perrine Bridge. Evel Knievel pulled off a lot of crazy stunts during his lifetime — so many in fact, that some fans actually were disappointed when he and his motorcycle easily jumped over a pyramid of more than 50 smashed cars on the Coliseum floor in 1973. This tiny hummingbird had a dislocated wing which prevented his flying from our patio.  We nursed him back.   UP NEXT:   We saved this tiny hummingbird this week, rescuing him after he landed on his back on our patio.  We had no idea there was such hunger for a good-news story, so next column, we salute the hummingbird, our favorite tiny fellow traveler. Its tenacity, prodigious flying talents and attention to its young make it a worthy subject, not to mention its ability to endure swings in the winds and weather. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at nature, travel, the arts, family and more. Please share the link with like-minded friends: whereiscookie.com

Alex Trebek with one of his Emmy awards. He received  "Outstanding Game Show Host" Emmy seven times,  and was presented with the 2011 Lifetime Achievement Award from the National Academy of Television Arts and Sciences.  He died Nov. 8, and his last taped show aired Jan. 8.   BELOVED GAME SHOW HOST SIGNED OFF WITHOUT FLOURISH A giant billboard of host Alex Trebek greets "Jeopardy" fans who line up for tapings. We joined the queue last autumn. The billboard will remain. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and Sony Pictures Television A montage of Alex Trebek's "Jeopardy!" moments moved viewers Friday. IF YOU tuned into "Jeopardy!" Friday, you did not hear an inspirational message from the game show's popular host, Alex Trebek. But you were treated to a bittersweet, 90-second montage. The moving tribute was set to Hugh Jackman singing the Peter Allen song “Once Before I Go."  It was a whimsical, laughter-filled remembrance showing Trebek's evolution through his 36 years as host. We saw him with moustache and without, with curly black hair then with grey, with costumes and snappy suits from several decades. The show was taped in October, days before Trebek died, not realizing it would be his last. Earlier in the week, he'd used his opening time Monday to deliver a powerful message urging unity, compassion and generosity.  That felt like a farewell to us. ACCORDING to the show's executive producer, Mike Richards, “That was something Alex decided to do in that moment.” The audience greeted the impromptu message with enthusiastic applause, grateful shouts, cheers and whistles. That was his welcome in the studio all week.  Many of us shed tears when Trebek's pancreatic cancer was diagnosed in March of 2019.  Youtube tribute to Alex Trebek San Francisco professor Jim Gilligan won Friday's game. Friday's winner, Jim Gilligan, said in an interview after Trebek's November death that the veteran host was a pro to the end, and that no one on set had any idea the final game would indeed be that.  The correct answer to the "Final Jeopardy" clue was "What is isotope?"  The San Francisco professor was one of only two players to make it to that last question. "Alex was incredibly intrepid and very positive. I think we were privileged to have him around.   Memories of "Jeopardy!" visits   Monday's spontaneous thundering ovation obviously moved Trebek who has hosted the popular show for 37 seasons. His final episode was taped Oct. 29. "Jeopardy" staff ready the show and quiet the crowds before the taping begins. The lady walking up the steps at left is coming to order a viewer to put his phone camera away. THAT LAST SHOW  had no fanfare or formal farewell from the veteran host, nor any kind of personal message to viewers in the opening statement. That's because “Alex didn’t think it was going to be his last show,” Richards said.  The show was filmed only 10 days before Trebek died Nov. 8 at his Los Angeles, family at his side, following a heroic and much publicized battle with the disease. “He had planned to host the show again that next week, and was focusing on that," Richards said in an interview. "Then when he wasn’t feeling well, he told me, ‘I don't believe I'll be able to come this next Monday or Tuesday but let’s look at the following Monday and Tuesday’." Trebek died days later. "Jeopardy!" champion Ken Jennings takes a selfie with the legendary Trebek two years ago. Jennings temporarily takes the helm next week. AS RICHARDS  and his team put the final touches on this week's final Trebek episodes, a search for his successor began. A young Alex Trebek in "Jeopardy's" earlier days. “It's going very well. There are  lots of people very interested in hosting Jeopardy!, which is gratifying, and also appropriately reverent of the shoes they will be stepping into,” Richards said. “We have had some great conversations with people.”  "Jeopardy" champion Ken Jennings will be the first guest host beginning Monday, Jan. 11, after Trebek's sign off Friday, Jan. 8. Media mogul, entrepreneur  and former TV host Katie  Couric is a top contender. Johnny Gilbert, now 96, says part of him died when news of Trebek's death reached the crew. "KEN STEPPED in and did a great job for us as a guest host,” Richards said. The plan is to have a series of guest hosts through spring, using the mix of stars' and past winners' appearances as prospective auditions, Richards told fans. “You'll also see big-name people who are not going to be considered for the role but they just love the show, love Alex and wanted to pay tribute,” he said. “We don't want to hurry to name a new person. We all are still mourning the loss of Alex, and I think to just turn around and name someone would be irresponsible and not thoughtful." Alex Trebek and his wife Jean at a fundraiser. His ashes rest at their Los Angeles home. Christene "Cookie" Meyers, excited to be on the lot where "Jeopardy!" is filmed.  Trebek’s death leaves a void, including deep sadness for announcer Johnny Gilbert, 96, who golfed with Trebek and worked with him since 1978.   The staff of "Jeopardy!" is unanimous in its affection for Trebek, who Richards said, "was in inspiration to us all. He was so professional, so hard working, so intelligent and in all of that,  also incredibly kind. When you hear people say it will not be done like that again, that’s true.  But we can all aspire to do it that well again.” A permanent new host won’t be named before spring, Richards said in a press conference.  FORMER 'TODAY  Show" host Katie Couric is believed to be on the replacement host list. Actor and children's PBS TV host LaVar Burton is also said to be a candidate for Trebek's replacement. "Reading Rainbow" host for many years, actor LeVar Burton, is a contender for new host. Veteran actor and TV personality Betty White, 98, may take a turn as guest host, speculators say. She was married to "Password" game show host Allen Ludden until his death in 1981 and was a good friend of Trebek's. “We are going to take our time and talk to a lot of people, have some people guest host and see what our fans think as well,” Richards said. This week's final Trebek shows were originally slated for the end of December, but were moved into the new year. Check your local listings to see what time the show airs Jan. 8. (We get it at 6 p.m. in Montana and 7:30 p.m. in California. It airs as early as 4:30 in some markets.)  We have cherished memories of our three "Jeopardy!" viewings and I'm proud to have met Trebek twice.  We'll keep the Kleenex nearby tonight as we watch his last show. In true show biz fashion, the "Jeopardy!" show must go on. Once it's up and running again, tickets are available on line. They are scarce, and coveted. Check out:   jeopardy.com/tickets The regal cheetah mother surveys the landscape with her juvenile, at left. Found usually in Africa, this family lives happily and without cages near Palm Springs. UP NEXT:  While we're celebrating our favorite game show, we'll take readers with us to visit another California attraction. Join us as we journey into a world of spectacular nature and wildlife, at the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens in Palm Springs, California. It offers an  enlightening insight into the lives and beauty of animals around the globe.  We recommend a visit for families, couples or anyone with an affection for plants and wildlife. Come visit this national treasure, ranked among the top zoos and gardens in the world. Until the COVID situation is resolved, distancing and masking are enforced, and numbers are limited, so make a reservation first. Remember to explore, learn and live, and share these stories with your friends. Check out:  livingdesert.org  and  whereiscookie.com

A mother cheetah and her growing juvenile wander about a beautiful preserve near Palm Desert. They are not caged, but able to roam within a large expanse at Living Desert Zoo and Gardens. TAKE A WALK WITH NATURE FROM OTHER CONTINENTS WITHOUT LEAVING THE U.S. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A group of Australian budgerigars a is almost close enough to touch -- but we wouldn't disturb them. We know them as "budgies" or parakeets, and they love seeds. IMAGINE  in these cloistered "Covid times," a walk with nature from around the world. Picture yourself admiring graceful gazelles on the African plain, or getting up close to a pair of playful wallabies in the Australian outback. Zebras, giraffes, beautiful green and yellow "budgies." Foxes, oxen, exotic deer from distant  continents. You can join us. We were thrilled to find this exotic, international outing possible, without leaving California. IT HAPPENS at the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens  near Palm Desert, Calif., not far from Palm Springs. It's a magnificent, welcome native wildlife zoo, considered by many to be one of the finest zoos in the world.  accredited by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums, exhibits more than 40 species of animals and hundreds of species of plants native to the Chihuahuan Desert. The park provides an up-close experience for visitors, with a variety of fun interpretive programs for every season, geared for the family. Living Desert also has beautiful hiking trails, picnic areas and group facilities. All wallabies are marsupials , with young born tiny, helpless and undeveloped. This mother has a young "joey" in her pouch. WE PICKED  a Sunday for our visit, arranging tickets on line, as the website requests. Because of distancing and masking, the zoo has reopened with strict protocol in place, and we were happy to see our fellow animal lovers behaving in respectful, courteous manner. One of our favorite exhibits was to the wondrous wallaby enclave. Several wallaby adults are hopping about not far from the paths that lead zoo visitors around from "continent to continent."  There are several dozen species of kangaroos and wallabies, and they are among the favorites at the beautifully designed zoo and gardens.  While viewers are welcome to get fairly close to many of the animals, guides and guards monitor the flow of viewers, keeping a close eye on behavior to make sure these beautiful critters are protected.  Keller and Cookie spent a "masked afternoon" discovering wildlife at Living Desert Zoo. Numbers of entrants are monitored so the wildlife wonders unfold in a leisurely manner, allowing visitors to step up to viewing areas without crowds, respecting social distancing edicts. WHILE SOME  of the enticing attractions are closed -- no giraffe feeding or endangered species carousel for now -- there's plenty to entertain a family on holiday, or anyone simply looking for a unique, nature-driven outing. We headed past the in-progress rhino attraction, which should open within the year, and stopped first in Australia, then on to Africa.  We didn't do justice to North America, since we live here and have A graceful Arabian oryx eyes the camera. The grounds and buildings are handsomely designed. seen bobcats, badgers, wolves, foxes and eagles in the wild.  The exhibit is praised for its beautiful and varied collection of critters, ranging from coyotes to desert tortoises, jaguars, bighorn sheep and peccaries. The large North America section is also home to some striking gardens, including palms, cacti, ocotillo, and many others of the varied plants our continent enjoys. The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens was known for a time as the Living Desert Museum. The current name better represents the place, which is both a remarkable desert botanical garden and an impressive zoo. Palm Desert isn't far from Palm Springs, and this is a great time to view the Sonoran Desert as spring begins in the Coachella Valley and Santa Rosa Mountains foothills. Architects have fashioned an inviting terrain to simulate that of the animals' native homes. The attraction is also a "free range" zoo, along with a marvelous botanical garden and nature preserve, protecting 1,200 acres of desert. WE WANDERED  through carefully marked garden and plant areas, which greet the eye on a casual stroll.    The nature trails were not open the day we visited, but the non-profit enterprise is slowly rebounding from closure at the beginning of the "Covid scourge."  It's a wonderful place to visit and learn and when Covid is conquered, the petting zoos, wildlife and reptile shows and lectures will be back in business.  Meanwhile, a worthy endeavor to support. Go on line to livingdesert.org  to book tickets in advance for your visit. Lady Gaga's tremendous arrangement of The National Anthem was moving at Wednesday's Inauguration. UP NEXT :  Wednesday's Presidential Inauguration was rich with moving moments, many of them musical. From Lady Gaga's fabulous soulful singing of the National Anthem to Garth Brooks inviting the audience to join him in "Amazing Grace," all backed by the nation's finest band, the U.S. Marine Band. We'll take a look at the meaning of music, poetry and the arts in Washington D.C. and the White House and  important moments in the country's history. Meanwhile, remember to mask, distance, and explore, learn and live while we await a vaccine. Please share this column, too, and comment.

A grey whale's breech brought gasps and cheers this week aboard Flagship's Marietta in San Diego. The family owned company offers a rewarding whale watching experience, with distanced seating and one-fourth capacity, lively commentary and a theme of environmental respect and protection. Charles navigated, with expert narration by Dale, who explained the whales' migratory patterns and enhanced our experience with detailed and lively insights into their life. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER GORGEOUS WEATHER , expert narration, smooth seas and the sighting of five grey whales made for a thrilling day on the water this week. Our outing was aboard Flagship fleet's comfy Marietta, departing San Diego Bay at 9:30 a.m. for a four-hour search for migrating grey whales. This is "prime whale time," according to my native California partner Keller, an avid, informed, lifelong watcher of whales.  THE GENTLE giants are heading south now from a feasting orgy in chilly Alaskan waters.  They'll give birth in Baja and tend their young in its secluded lagoons, their territory for centuries.  Danielle is one of Flagship's attentive naturalist guides, with helpful brochures and whale artifacts, including these killer whale teeth. Check out Ocean Connectors.com   Our skilled Flagship team included Charles, Dale, Danielle and Hannah, all expert "spotters," ever respectful of giving the whales breathing room.  They soon found a flisky pair when we were barely into the ocean, past Point Loma, then another pair, and a single playful whale.  We saw breeching, "spy hopping," and the longed for fluke, which appears  before the whale dives deeply beneath the surface. "Spy hopping" occurs when the whales take a look around to get their bearings and see what's out there. With so few of us on the ship, and strict distancing and masking in force, Flagship offered a splendid five-star tour. The bar was open for early-riser bloody marys and soft drinks, coffee and light snacks. Seeing the whale's fluke is a wondrous experience. INTERESTING literature, brochures and whale artifacts are passed around by the naturalist-guides to keep passengers entertained between sightings. Docents share information and models between sightings, to keep the action lively.  When the whales come into view, there's a feeling of charged excitement as we hurry to the railings. One whale might be the width of a basketball court. Well informed guides point out other sea life along the way, here this sunbathing seal.  Our twin sightings may have been mating pairs, but whether they were "romantic" or not, our experts weren't certain.  They were obviously friendly and traveling together. Greys often mate in a trio, so the single whale near journey's end could hook up with one of the pair. Passengers enjoy plenty of space aboard Marietta, with room to be safe and enjoy.  We've seen babies with their mothers in April, heading north. But since the gestation period is 12 months, the ones we see mating these year won't give birth until next year. Keller took this mother and calf photo in April, a thrill for both of us. We'll soon watch the northbound whales.   EACH WINTER , these beautiful southbound gray whales usually travel in pods of two or three and each year, more than 20,000 gray whales make an impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey to the southern lagoons. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- often on Flagship. Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he play photographer. We'll be looking again in April for the mothers and calves. A quintet of a larger pod of dolphin ride the bow wave of our boat as it pushes through the water in the ocean miles off Point Loma. Dolphins are also a delight on our whale watching expeditions. They frolic, jump and dive for us, enjoying their captive audience.   http://youtu.be/8NjCuIetD3Y The whales know we're nearby and don't seem to mind. Some experts speculate that they are naturally curious and trusting, which could explain their near demise at the hands of ruthless and greedy whalers of yore. These beautiful creatures travel at about five knots (about six miles per hour), so when a boat captain or passenger spots one, we slow down -- usually from five or six miles out, although we've seen them at closer range. Keller's painterly eye caught this moody reflection as we pulled out of the harbor, with San Diego's cityscape behind. We smile, below left, as we motor past the cruise terminal. Flagship's family owned operation includes  a versatile fleet offering many options including private charters. We've been on the Marietta many times, once for a wedding, and for several celebrations and parties. Her roomy sundeck affords fabulous sightseeing of one of America's prettiest port cities. The indoor reception area is closed now because of COVID-19, but as vaccinations increase and health returns, she'll be open again for indoor receptions, cocktail parties, dancing and romancing.   THE COMPANY  was founded in 1915 and is known for its whale watching as well as harbor cruises and a jet boat thrill ride for the adventurous. The line's popular dinner  cruise operation is gearing back up soon after a hiatus during COVID-19. Special holiday and, holiday and dinner cruises, and a jet boat thrill ride. Beginning Feb. 18, you can upgrade your next Harbor Tour to a Sunset Cocktail Cruise. The "Sunset Cocktail Package for Two" will be available Thursdays through Sundays on Flagship's 4:15 p.m. full bay harbor tour. Sounds like fun and includes a reserved table, champagne and hors d'oeuvres for two, with a full no-host bar.   www.flagshipsd.com/ As the sail is hoisted, passengers are in for a treat at Triton-Charters, with a wonderful new yacht and many options for fun on San Diego Bay. UP NEXT : While we're exploring the high seas, we've found a new yacht in town. It's fun, it's sleek, it's Triton, a spacious, luxurious, sparkling catamaran is the newest yacht in southern California. She's making a big splash cruising San Diego Bay with masking and distancing, and treating lovers of water to a beautiful afternoon. You can rent the yacht for a private party, or join other sailors to cruise in comfort, with a lovely bar, music, a dance floor, and plenty of open-air space to visit, soak up the sights and sun, see San Diego landmarks and cruise yourself into relaxation. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on travel, water driven activities, cruising, nature, the arts, family and more: whereiscookie.com

NEW YACHT OFFERSCOMFORT, BEVERAGES, VIEWS            Up, up, up  goes the main sail, above, as  the Triton crew readies the yacht for a fun afternoon on San Diego Bay.  At right, on deck, the impressive Coronado Bridge attracts the attention of passengers as they sip reasonably priced beverages, move about the boat for ringside views of the bridge and the city  skyline, and relax to the sound of the water and the ambiance of a beautiful vessel. Comfy, moveable chairs and nicely arranged benches and tables offer a range of seating. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A GREEK MYTH  inspired the story of  Triton, god of the sea. He possessed  magical powers and became a revered messenger, protecting sailors and promoting safety in ocean crossings. SO SAN DIEGO'S  newest catamaran, the beautiful Triton, is aptly named. She's a messenger for good times. We spent a glorious afternoon aboard Triton, which can be rented for private parties or booked by families, couples, singles, groups -- for a delightful sail around San Diego Bay.  Our fellow sailors were a pleasant mix of business and professional people,  students, couples looking for a lively but relaxing outing and young at heart retirees and vacationers escaping colder climes.  Happy, relaxed sailors enjoy views, chat, drinks. THE YACHT is downtown San Diego's new kid on the pleasure cruising block. In the boat rental business, there are numerous competitors for the leisure time dollar.  Triton won't disappoint if you're looking for a pleasant, fairly priced diversion to surprise a date, or an enjoyable outing to treat out-of-town guests. Great family reunion or birthday option. Once aboard the boat -- based on Shelter Island, near the mid-road sign -- you'll be pampered by an attentive crew, and can wander about or just plunk yourself down to enjoy the impressive sights that make San Diego "America's finest city," as she is often called. We circled around Seaport Village, Shelter Island, under the beautiful Coronado Bridge and past the city's array of monuments, high rises, boutiques, galleries, parks, bike paths and sculpture. San Diego born Bruce Keller enjoys a bird's eye view of the Bay. It's fun to be on the water and observe other sea life, from the Coronado Ferry to whale watching vessels and pleasure crafts of all manner, shape, size and origin. We saw yachts from as far away as Rhode Island and the Virgin Islands, Hawaii, Alaska and Seattle, as well as dozens who call San Diego home. We even spotted a couple playful dolphin. OUR 2.5 HOUR cruise went by in a flash, as we made a leisurely loop under the bridge, catching a glimpse of the legendary Hotel Del Coronado across the isthmus.  The sleek, comfortable Triton has an  impressive history.  She came thousands of miles from Texas, through the Gulf of Mexico, down the east coast to transit the Panama Canal, then up the west coast to San Diego. The circuitous 38-day journey took place after she was rebuilt and remodeled to contemporary perfection, and she's been a focal point of southern California yachting life since she splashed into the Bay in August of 2020. It's fun to watch the able and highly trained crew work the sails.   OUR PLEASANT companions mingled, made new friends, pointed out sights to newcomers and enjoyed beverages at an attractive and comfortably located bar.  The boat is thoughtfully arranged so people can be alone or join a casual chat with other small groups. Welcoming seating on the level deck includes bean bag chairs which can be easily moved or used anywhere on board. There's always an unobstructed bird's eye view. One of the most welcome pleasures of a boat trip around the Bay with Triton is the ability to do whatever you like -- simply relax with a beverage, meditate to the sound of the sail and the swish of the water, chat with friends, be alone or enjoy a romantic time with a favorite person. The views are gorgeous and the pace is leisurely and relaxed. Cookie and Keller aboard Triton, a new, comfy and contemporary catamaran offering fun outings . THERE ARE other charters in San Diego and we've sampled many.  Triton is roomy and new, so she is spit-and-polish clean and can carry up to 105 passengers. The Triton staff are honoring Covid precautions, though, so one-fourth and one-third capacity are standard. This enhances the comfortable, safe feeling. She's 75-feet long and the helpful and polite crew treat passengers as if they're clients on a private yacht.  Masks are worn onto the boat, and can be shed to sip a beverage or if you're with your own small group. Triton, true to the legacy of the god for which she was named, offers safety and pleasant seas.   WE FELT quite pampered and relaxed after our afternoon, and made a couple new friends to boot.  The colors are soothing -- aquas, greys, light relaxing shades. Pillows and comfy touches encourage relaxation with a sophisticated touch. The 13-seat bar was popular on our journey, and  parties can book the water slide option which looks like fun, as the weather warms. A large dance floor and advanced sound system invite partying, celebrations and groups of friends. Adults are $55 and children $15. Two sailings are offered each afternoon, at 1 p.m. and 4:30. It's easy to book on line. Or email info@triton-charters.com ; 844 587-4866. triton-charters.com Hotel Del Coronado in San Diego is our "Staycation" choice.   UP NEXT: Consider a "Staycation." This made-up word means you can drive within a day from home, and feel like you're far away. Different environment. New scenery. Change of pace. For nearly a year, we travel lovers have all been in a state of deprivation. So we are looking for change from our own winter home, San Diego, and have found splendid, relaxing, inviting, pleasurable digs nearby. Wherever you live, consider a B&B, cozy boutique, hot springs resort, spa, or nearby hotel where you might enjoy time away from the home routine, and the chance to feel you're doing something a bit different for yourself. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts and more: whereiscookie.com

It's 5 p.m. and the sun is setting over the pool at The Palms at Indian Head. Diners are beginning to gather at distanced tables on the welcoming patio for gourmet fare at Coyote Steakhouse.  PALMS AT INDIAN HEAD OFFERS SATISFYING STAY WITH STAR STUDDED HISTORY STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The inviting lobby, reception and bar area reflect the desert's soothing colors and inviting shapes. You'll hear recordings of Frank Sinatra or on weekends, excellent live piano music. STEP BACK in time at the Palms at Indian Head and imagine Clark Gable, Lon Chaney, Will Rogers, Bing Crosby and Marilyn Monroe lounging by the pool. It's 1950. Crosby is relaxing after a round of golf. Monroe orders her favorite champagne -- "make it a double," she winks at the poolside waiter. Gable yawns and dives into the Olympic size pool, to do laps in its 25-yard lanes. Marlon Brando wanders off by himself, engrossed in a detective novel. Raymond Burr studies a script over a beer. EVERYONE  is relaxed and laid back at the 20-acre resort, built in 1947. Mature trees and landscaping welcome the eye and offer habitat for rabbits and other desert critters.   Thanks to an enterprising couple with a love of nature and an impeccable artistic vision, you can relax here, too.  Seventy-plus years after the property was conceived, owners David Leibert and Cynthia Wood are patiently restoring it to its glory days -- with their own spin and tasteful architectural changes. (The original bungalows -- lost to fire --are mostly replaced by a charming boutique hotel over the lobby and lounge.) The two were inspired by the beautiful trees on the property -- California's famous fan palms, Mexican palms and date producing palms near the pool. Thus the name, which also reflects the inn's location -- at the base of Indian Head Mountain,  a stately summit in the gorgeous San Ysidro Mountains. A delightful opener -- ahi tartare with  wasabi --  is artfully presented. (One wonton tasted by the hungry writer.) THE OWNERS have worked hard to make the place welcoming, with a wonderful restaurant, the Coyote Steakhouse. Chirping birds, rabbits, the occasional sprint of a roadrunner and among the desert's pleasures.  A lovely gallery offers artfully presented desert landscapes, appealing pottery and imaginative paintings. On weekends, gifted pianist Joe Ross offers a range of beautifully played classics, '50s and '60s pop and occasional Scott Joplin ragtime. A genius at variety and smooth segue, he plays inventive medleys with hypnotic force in a repertoire ranging from French impressionists to jazz and Frank Sinatra.   Framed by a soon-to-bloom ocotillo on a Palms bike ride.   THE MENU at the Steakhouse is superbly chosen, with entrees including steaks, chops, seafood and chicken  -- all beautifully  prepared.  An early-bird special -- a true bargain at $21 -- includes a generous three courses. We began with the tasty ahi tartare and ended with cheesecake, delighted with our leisurely served meal. The property rests on land once occupied by the Cahuilla Indians and the mountain profile of a reclining Indian frames the property and inspires a closer look during a stroll at dawn or dusk.  G ifted pianist Joey Ross plays weekends at the Palms, here with musician Cookie enjoying. Borrego is less known than its nearby neighbor Palm Springs, but it is only three hours from Hollywood.  As Palm Springs was "discovered," Borrego became a quieter get-away for privacy-seeking stars, who could ride horseback, swim, drink, dine and play tennis between movie shoots, escape publicity and return to the studios in a few hours, the mandate back then. THE BUILDING  that now houses most of the rooms was constructed in 1958 in the famous California "Mid-Century Modern" style -- with Mondrian influences. The architect is unknown but David and Cindy narrowed the field to Joseph Eickler, Cliff May and Albert Frey, all noted for their flair in the style of the day. IN THE DAY it was called Hoberg's Desert Resort, and guests reveled in the star-studded night sky. We did the same last week, after hiking and biking the 20-acre retreat and exploring nearby Palm Canyon. We parked our bikes outside the Palms' gallery, which offers a nicely displayed and tasteful mix of paintings and sculpture. What we loved most about our four peaceful days at the resort was the quiet, laid back calm the place offers. We truly soaked up the ambience, with the inn's amiable "Girl Friday" Marcy always on call for ice or directions. Keller and Cookie enjoyed  dinner at the inn's delightful restaurant, Coyote Steakhouse. I TOOK a swim in the once largest privately owned pool in San Diego county. The owners plan to solar heat the pool, but it's currently "natural" and it will wake you up, guaranteed, even after a glass of champagne! Marcy said that the place is packed in the summer, as guests enjoy the cooling waters when desert temperatures soar! Don't miss a meal at the Red Ocotillo, the owners' other enterprise, just off Christmas Circle with a fabulous all-day menu, popular with locals and tourists alike. More information or to book a room or dinner:   thepalmsatindianhead.com ; redocotillo.com   The glorious pinks of desert cactus await as spring arrives. UP NEXT: While we're in the desert, we'll take in the blooms. If you don't associate desert landscape with blossoms, you're in for a treat. Depending on the winter moisture, there are plenty of blooms on cactus and flowers to greet the plant lover. So we're off on our bikes to continue our exploration of Borrego Springs, a quieter, more laid back alternative to Palm Springs, and a welcoming place to recharge. Remember to explore, learn and live, and join us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, the arts, family and more: whereiscookie.com . Please share the links and tell like minded friends.

Big hair, tights and roller skates for artist Marina Mac, who brought the house down with a high-stepping performance on Oscar's balcony. DRAG DAZZLES THE DESERT BOARDS: QUALITY CABARET SHOWS OFFER A FUN REASON  TO VISIT PALM SPRINGS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Actor Anita Rose applies makeup to host a sold-out show . KEEPING A small business afloat during a pandemic is no small challenge.  But Dan Gore, owner and manager of Oscar's in Palm Springs, has survived a year that put many restaurants and bistros under. It's flourishing now -- perhaps not economically, but certainly in spirit, because Gore believes in the power of performance and the human spirit to transcend and triumph. "The pandemic has given us  opportunity to reflect on life and both personal and business goals," he muses.  AFTER lockdown curtailed indoor activities and closed down his popular eatery and theater, Gore and company revived the vital connection with his cabaret's loyal following. Using the patio as its main venue, the format allows for distancing, fresh air and fun times.  Emcee Anita Rose has a witty, fun and free-wheeling style -- and several fetching costume changes -- to keep Oscar's shows lively. Loyal locals and supportive tourists are the lifeblood of Oscar's, known for its gender-bending productions, excellent menu, reliable kitchen, and its fresh, funny stable of talent. WE WERE THRILLED to be in the audience at a recent sold-out "Bitchiest Brunch" revival Sunday matinee with emcee Anita Rose flamboyant, accomplished and endearing.  Drag is a long-standing tradition in theater and at Oscar's and Rose adeptly sets the tone with good-natured, let's have fun banter. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are happy to be once again at a live show. "I felt it was important to keep this going," Gore said. "Entertainment is one of the most essential elements of human life -- a chance for the entertainer to become someone else."  In turn, he reflects, "a good show allows the audience to escape reality for a couple hours, to leave depressing thoughts or physical ailments behind, to fantasize." Oscar's drag queens fulfill that in spades -- to the delight of packed houses. The result brings a smile to Gore's face. An entertainer, producer and director for three decades, he said he hasn't necessarily been financially rewarded by staying the course, "but there's no greater reward than bringing smiles to the faces of our show audiences. The spiritual value for audiences and performers alike is infinite."    Mimosa Man are on tap at Oscar's Saturday; the cabaret's menu offers tasty dining and  beverages which can be served during the show Rosemary -- audacious, funny, pretty in pink.    OSCAR'S IS  presenting a variety of spirited live entertainment as we recover from the pandemic performance drought. Oscar's owner Dan Gore is optimistic about Oscar's future  and devoted to live performance. Such  delights as a male exotic revue, Latin drag show and wickedly entertaining Sunday "bitchiest brunch" with roller skating acts and big hair await those of us who have been performance-starved. All the action is outside with distanced tables, and includes: Mondays, Las Chicas Calientes drag show; Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 pm. the Kal David Trio blues band; Saturday, Mimosa Men; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Bitchiest Brunch. Sunday's popular T-Dance Disco Party resumes as Covid restrictions lift. Our hunt for live entertainment always includes a stop at this lively cabaret when we're anywhere near Palm Springs. Oscar's on its own is even reason enough for a visit.  For reservations (recommended) or information: oscarspalmsprings.com ; 760 325-1188. The intriguing sculpture of artist Ricardo Breceda await pleasure seekers in California's Anza Borrego desert. UP NEXT : The desert calls us and we  answer, in southern California's beautiful nature-driven life away from big cities. Sculpture, flowers, and fun places to hike and picnic await. Come along, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more. Share links with like minded people: whereiscookie.com

The Church of San Nicolò in Savoca was the filming location of some of the iconic scenes in "The Godfather." We joined fans of the film to visit the village and climb to the church, remembering the wedding of Michael Corleone and Apollonia and other scenes shot a half-century ago. The village of Savoca, Italy, owes its recent prosperity to the legendary film, "The Godfather," shot there 50 years ago. TRAVEL WRITERS VISIT THE VILLAGE WHERE HISTORY WAS MADE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER  and courtesy Paramount Studios A SMALL VILLAGE in Sicily owes its popularity to a film made there 50 years ago. That's when principal photography on "The Godfather" began. The film is now considered legendary, a landmark motion picture, and I hold happy memories of attending its  premier and visiting the film's on-location setting.   The film premiered in 1972, with a gala charity event followed by several other showings. I was invited -- along with movie reviewers from all 50 states and many foreign countries -- to Loew's State Theater, New York, March 25, 1972. It was a gala event, a star-studded evening. I'd been to Italy twice already, but had not visited Savoca. Forty-five years later, Bruce Keller and I did.  We spent a day in Savoca, where much of the film was shot in 1971.    DIRECTOR Francis Ford Coppola scouted Sicily to find the perfect "borghi."  He fell in love with the historic village of Savoca because it captured his imagination; he could picture the Mario Puzo story unfolding there. His vision would come true, as Savoca became the centerpiece for his masterful film. Marlon Brando in the leading role takes direction from Francis Ford Coppola in a studio shot, March, 1971. What attracts most visitors here is the chance to retrace the locations of the film.  All manner of "Godfather" memorabilia awaits -- t-shirts, shot glasses, posters.  The bar-cafe where other scenes were shot is the much visited Bar Vitelli, and we stopped there at day's end to enjoy a cocktail. THE CASTING  of Brando was controversial because the studio was considering Anthony Quinn and Ernest Borgnine for the role of Mafia boss Don Vito Corleone, chief of the organized crime family. But Coppola was insistent: his first and only choice was Marlon Brando. Writer Puzo agreed and the inflexible stand of the pair caused a stir at Paramount. But after much debate, Brando it was! Director Francis Ford Coppola's Italian  heritage was a plus for Paramount's decision. THEN AL PACINO was hired to play the part of the young Michael Corleone. We heard tales of his time in the village, while reminiscing at Bar Vitelli.  It's at the entrance to town, where young Michael meets the cafe owner, the father of of his future wife. Our cocktail there was our reward for making it up the steep slopes to the Church of San Nicolò where the wedding between Michael and Keller and Cookie relax at the end of their Savoca tour. Apollonia took place. Most of the principal photography took place a half-century ago, from March 29, 1971, to August 6, 1971. A whiz-bang total of 77 days of shooting -- fewer than the 83 planned days -- brought the picture in under budget. The success of "The Godfather" has also meant success in tourism for the village of Savoca. Here, an artful tribute.  AS WE CLIMBED, we joined other tourists and locals on the streets -- shopping, dining, browsing, selling "Godfather" memorabilia and limoncello. Taking breaks on the  cactus lined hill, we admired citrus trees, olive groves and vineyards below. We wanted to explore this small medieval town on foot but we'd underestimated the climb's steepness. The narrow streets, flanked by historic buildings, are like those of all southern Europe -- meandering, full of history and intriguing shops. Below, we caught views that reach as far as the Gulf of Taormina. We also rested often, enjoying the visual treats. The famous wedding scene from the film. Paramount promoted "The Godfather" as the first Italian mob drama made by Italians, but we found from our bartender that some of his American relatives were skeptical. "Italian-Americans were always portrayed as criminals in the movies," Giuseppe said, "and my people were tired of the stereotypes." We did some homework. There was controversy. Joseph Colombo, of the crime family that bore his name, formed The Italian-American Civil Rights League in 1969 demanding the words “mafia” and “Cosa Nostra” be pulled from the script and that all the money the movie made at its premier be donated to a fund to build a new hospital. This came to be.   THE CHOICE  of the leading man wasn't the only cause for debate. Studio production chief, Robert Evans, approached several directors—including Sergio Leone and Costa Gavras— before hiring the relatively unknown Coppola, who was only 31 years old. As an Italian American, Coppola wanted to to make the film an authentic representation of the culture and times. He wanted to do justice to family loyalty and the complex relationships within the Corleone family, rather than focusing on the crime aspect. He worked with Puzo on the screenplay and persuaded Paramount to increase the film's meager $2.5 million budget. Cactus lines the walk to the church in Savoca where "The Godfather" scenes were filmed. Coppola persuaded Paramount to up the ante to $7 million.  The film made $287 million, was nominated for 11 Oscars, won three and will long be remembered for Nino Rota's haunting score. Actor, poet, teacher Bruce Meyers was born April 1, 1943. He acted in more than 50 performances and taught at MSU- Billings for 25 years before his death in 1992.    NEXT UP: We segue from the movies to theater as we celebrate the life of Bruce Kemp Meyers, born April 1, 1943.  He would be 78 years old this week, so we celebrate his talents and note his remarkable legacy as actor, teacher, poet, friend. We'll also update readers on the Bruce Meyers scholarship fund at Montana State University-Billings where Meyers taught for 25 years.  Each year, it honors an English major and it is possible to contribute to this worthy endeavor. Tune in for fun memories of a talented man. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more: whereiscookie.com

Ricardo Breceda's whimsical sculptures include desert wildlife and this fetching dragon,  whose tail intriguingly goes under the road and emerges on the other side of the highway. DESERT DELIGHTS: INTRIGUING SCULPTURE, FLOWERS, FRESH AIR ASSAIL THE SENSES Story by Christene Meyers Photos by Bruce Keller A daughter's infatuation with movie creatures inspired sculptor Ricardo Breceda's success. Recent March rains have brought out the blooms on cacti. Head east and slightly north of San Diego to find a bonanza of art and flowers.  These remarkable art pieces—sometimes whimsical, sometimes haunting—are  one of a kind works. Some of Breceda's creatures are ambitious fantasies. They bring a smile. We can almost see Breceda winking as he playfully places his serpent on both sides of the road -- suggesting in a clever arc that the critter's tail dips under the playa, emerging on the other side. Other pieces realistically represent now extinct creatures. Our search is for blooms bursting from cacti. As we walk, drive or bike, we listen to bird song as sweet as the morning air and happily happen upon a bonus of unusual sculpture.  WE QUICKLY discover that nature's bounty isn't the desert's only attraction.   Dozens of art pieces by Durango, Mexico, native and California transplant Breceda draw us in, too. His free-ranging artwork runs the gamut from prehistoric mammals to historical characters, dinosaurs, western figures and  native wildlife.    Beneath the desert hillside, surrounded by cholla, an elephant by Ricardo Breceda awaits inspection.  Once you find Borrego Springs Road, you're on a path to nature's wonders -- plus delightful sculpture of elephants, sabre-tooth cats, ancient camels, raptors and big horn sheep coming down from the mountains to graze. Several imaginative human figures complement the artist's wide ranging critter kingdom. One, of an early priest who settled in the area, is a bit of a walk, well worth it if you're in a car rather than on foot or or bike. KNOWN AS the "Accidental artist," Breceda began creating his metal animal kingdom when his daughter Lianna, then six, requested a dinosaur for Christmas, after being captivated by the film "Jurassic Park III." At the time, Breceda was selling cowboy boots for a living, so he traded a pair of those for a welding machine. (One could say his boots were made for sculpting!) After a few weeks of labor, he unveiled his first sculpture, a 20-foot tall tyrannosaurus rex. The hobby grew into a passion as he created one after another life-like creations, becoming in short order a sought after sculptor and designer.               A bounty of blooms can be found in Anza Borrego desert if one is willing to spend time and patience.   GOOD FORTUNE  continued to visit him when he met Dennis Avery, of well known label maker  Avery Dennison Corporation. Avery owned Galleta Meadows Estates and nurtured a vision of a giant free-standing gallery on his property. The dream flourished and now includes more than 130 pieces which pepper the landscape, including the remarkably fetching 350 foot sea serpent featured in this article's top photo by our team's own travel-nature fan and artistic visionary, Bruce Keller.     One of Ricardo Breceda's wonderfully crafted bighorn sheep awaits roadside viewing in the Anza Borrego desert. BOTH ART MADE by man and that of the natural world   delight and surprise drivers near Borrego Springs. We look for them, along with the blooms and always take in the Anza Borrego State Park Visitor Center, where this time of year, you'll find poppies, visalia, and brittlebush blooming. North of Borrego Springs proper, along Henderson Canyon Road, Canyon Road is where you'll want to be for flowers fields of delicate purples and golds, and unique sculpture not found anywhere else. We recommend taking your time for this treasure hunt.   Bring plenty of water and a protein bar to keep you hydrated and nourished on your adventure.   Bruce Keller and Christene"Cookie" Meyers take bikes to the desert in search of art, blooms. BRECEDA'S ART brings life to the desert, which is otherwise not as colorful as it has been some years. Lack of consistent moisture has resulted in fewer blooms than usual, but the recent March rains have brought the cactus and wildflowers out. It just takes a bit more looking than in the "super bloom" years when one can see bursts of color even from the car.   The ocotillo are just beginning to bud out and the wild flowers are showing color.   Meanwhile, enjoy the sculpture, which is to be savored along with the colors nature provides. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A DRIVE, HIKE  or bike ride through the Anza Borrego desert is a feast for the eyes and balm for the soul. You've stumbled upon an amazing outdoor "museum," as you discover not only nature's bounty, but the eye catching sculpture of Ricardo Breceda, artfully spread throughout the park.  Flowers complement the sculpture for a pleasing mix as we embark upon our treasure hunt.     Spotlight on desert sculptor   A miner's faithful companion is loaded with gear. Some of the sculptures may be seen from the road. Others require a bit of a short walk to view up close. WE RECOMMEND a few days in the desert. You'll return to your world refreshed and invigorated at the sights and sounds. And if you wonder, as we did, what the name "Anza Borrego" means, here you go: the park takes its moniker from the 18th century Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza and the word borrego, Spanish for sheep. Looking for a place to stay, steps away from the action? The Palms at Indian Head and La Casa del Zorro are our two favorites, very different from one another and each with its charms and much to recommend.   lacasadelzorro.com/   thepalmsatindianhead.com/   parks.ca.gov/   Director Francis Ford Coppola is immortalized in a sculpture in Savoca, Italy, which he has visited multiple times since the filming of "The Godfather," nearly a half-century ago. UP NEXT: Next week marks the 49th anniversary of the premier of "The Godfather," a movie that people still talk about and watch again and again.  It raked in the big bucks at the box office in 1972, winning Oscars for its stars and director Francis Ford Coppola.  It also made a star of the quiet little village of Savoca in Sicily. Come with us to  celebrate what many consider one of the best films of all time -- and the sleepy village which became a star in its own right. Please share the link: whereiscookie.com