Savoca, Italy Godfather filming location memoir: Celebrating 50 years since the classic

The Church of San Nicolò in Savoca was the filming location of some of the iconic scenes in "The Godfather." We joined fans of the film to visit the village and climb to the church, remembering the wedding of Michael Corleone and Apollonia and other scenes shot a half-century ago.

The village of Savoca, Italy, owes its prosperity to the legendary film, "The Godfather," shot there 50 years ago.

TRAVEL WRITERS VISIT THE VILLAGE WHERE HISTORY WAS MADE

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER 

"The Carpe Diem Kids"

and courtesy Paramount Studios

There’s something almost surreal about arriving in Savoca, a village where time seems to stand still. Perched above the Ionian coast, this charming Sicilian town gained worldwide fame when director Francis Ford Coppola chose it as a backdrop for scenes in "The Godfather." But beyond its Hollywood legacy, Savoca reveals a quieter magic -- sunlit piazzas, centuries-old architecture, and a sense of history that lingers, inviting travelers to slow down and savor the beauty of a place where storytelling and reality intertwin

A SMALL VILLAGE IN SICILY

Savoca, Italy is "Godfather" country. The filming of the award winning film began more than 50 years ago. Principal photography on "The Godfather" took six months. The film is considered legendary, a landmark motion picture. I hold happy memories of attending its  premier and visiting the film's on-location setting.

The film premiered in 1972, with a gala charity event followed by several other showings

"The Godfather" has brought a certain prosperity and minor fame to Savoca, with souvenirs aplenty.

I was invited -- along with movie reviewers from all 50 states and many foreign countries -- to Loew's State Theater, New York, March 25, 1972. It was a gala event, a star-studded evening. I'd been to Italy twice already, but had not visited Savoca. Forty-five years later, Bruce Keller and I did.  We spent a day in Savoca, where much of the film was shot in 1971. 

 DIRECTOR Francis Ford Coppola scouted Sicily to find the perfect "borghi."  He fell in love with the historic village of Savoca because it captured his imagination; he could picture the Mario Puzo story unfolding there. His vision would come true, as Savoca became the centerpiece for his masterful film.

Marlon Brando in the leading role takes direction from Francis Ford Coppola in a studio shot, March, 1971.

What attracts most visitors to Savoca Italy Godfather filming location is the chance to retrace the locations of the film.  All manner of "Godfather" memorabilia awaits -- t-shirts, shot glasses, posters.  The bar-cafe where other scenes were shot is the much visited Bar Vitelli, and we stopped there at day's end to enjoy a cocktail.

THE CASTING of Brando was controversial because Brando was known for his eccentricities and the studio was also considering Anthony Quinn and Ernest Borgnine for the role of Mafia boss Don Vito Corleone, chief of the organized crime family.

But Coppola was insistent: his first and only choice was Marlon Brando.

Writer Puzo agreed and the inflexible stand of the pair caused a stir at Paramount. But after much debate, Brando it was!

Director Francis Ford Coppola's Italian heritage was a plus for Paramount's decision.

THEN AL PACINO was hired to play the part of the young Michael Corleone. We heard tales of his time in the village, while reminiscing at Bar Vitelli.  It's at the entrance to town, where young Michael meets the cafe owner, the father of of his future wife.

Our cocktail there was our reward for making it up the steep slopes to the Church of San Nicolò where the wedding between Michael and

Keller and Cookie relax at the end of their Savoca tour in the gardens of a nearby bar.

Apollonia took place. Most of the principal photography took place a half-century ago, from March 29, 1971, to August 6, 1971. A whiz-bang total of 77 days of shooting -- fewer than the 83 planned days -- brought the picture in under budget.

The success of "The Godfather" has also meant success in tourism for the village of Savoca. Here, an artful tribute to Coppola directing. The sculpture honors his film artistry which made Savoca a tourist stop. 

AS WE CLIMBED, we joined other tourists and locals on the streets -- shopping, dining, browsing, selling "Godfather" memorabilia and limoncello. Taking breaks on the  cactus lined hill, we admired citrus trees, olive groves and vineyards below. We wanted to explore this small medieval town on foot but we'd underestimated the climb's steepness.

The narrow streets, flanked by historic buildings, are like those of all southern Europe -- meandering, full of history and intriguing shops. Below, we caught views that reach as far as the Gulf of Taormina. We also rested often, enjoying the visual treats.

The famous wedding scene from the film featuring actor Al Pacino.

Paramount promoted "The Godfather" as the first Italian mob drama made by Italians, but we found from our bartender that some of his American relatives were skeptical. "Italian-Americans were always portrayed as criminals in the movies," Giuseppe said, "and my people were tired of the stereotypes."

We did some homework. There was controversy. Joseph Colombo, of the crime family that bore his name, formed The Italian-American Civil Rights League in 1969 demanding the words “mafia” and “Cosa Nostra” be pulled from the script and that all the money the movie made at its premier be donated to a fund to build a new hospital. This came to be.

Bar Vitelli, near the town's entrance, is where Michael Corleone meets his future wife, Apollonia.  A hike up the hill is the Church of San Nicolo, where their wedding would take place.  

 THE CHOICE of the leading man wasn't the only cause for debate. Studio production chief, Robert Evans, approached several directors -- including Sergio Leone and Costa Gavras -- before hiring the relatively unknown Coppola, who was only 31 years old. As an Italian American, Coppola wanted to to make the film an authentic representation of the culture and times. He wanted to do justice to family loyalty and the complex relationships within the Corleone family, rather than focusing on the crime aspect. He worked with Puzo on the screenplay and persuaded Paramount to increase the film's meager $2.5 million budget.

Cactus lines the walk to the church in Savoca where "The Godfather" scenes were filmed.

Coppola persuaded Paramount to up the ante to $7 million.  The film made $287 million, was nominated for 11 Oscars, won three and will long be remembered for Nino Rota's haunting score.

NEXT UP: We segue from the movies to theater as we celebrate the life of Bruce Kemp Meyers, born April 1, 1943.  On his birthday week, we celebrate his talents and note his remarkable legacy as actor, teacher, poet, friend. We'll also update readers on the Bruce Meyers scholarship fund at Montana State University-Billings where Meyers taught for 25 years.  Each year, it honors an English major and it is possible to contribute to this worthy endeavor. Tune in for fun memories of a talented man. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at the arts, travel, nature, family and more: whereiscookie.com