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Outside the Allen Elizabethan Theater, people take the summer night's air between acts. Next door, the Bowmer Theater has a play underway, too, and across the street the smaller Thomas Theater also has a production. ASHLAND WORKS ITS WONDERS WITH FABULOUS THEATER, FINE FOOD, GORGEOUS HOTELS AND MORE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Set against the scenic backdrop of Ashland, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is one of the most celebrated performing arts events in the United States. Each season, this world-class festival brings timeless works by William Shakespeare to life alongside bold contemporary productions, all performed across stunning indoor and outdoor stages. Whether you’re a devoted theatergoer or a curious traveler, the festival offers an unforgettable cultural experience in Southern Oregon. A back-stage tour takes one behind the scenes, here into the Bowmer Theater where two of Cookie's seats are pictured in the foreground, and the bed frame from "Shakespeare in Love" awaits viewers. Patrons may purchase a chair plaque to honor a loved one. AS A CHILD , theater cast a spell on me. Its user-friendly witchcraft opened doors to travel and daring, shaping my imagination and enhancing my life. For decades I've enjoyed the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, viewing hundreds of plays of every genre. Contemporary theater and Shakespeare's classics -- with the fest's famous gender bending, age defying, multi-racial, shake-it-up, spin. Here in this small, village-like but hip southern Oregon town Ashland, the festival and its three distinctly different theaters offer more than the bard's brilliant works.  A beautifully staged potpourri unfolds: new challenging work, time honored classics of both the American and European stages and the occasional musical take bows as well. This year's festival was a thrilling, exhilarating mix. Oregon Shakespeare Festival Ashland Hills Hotel has modern lounge area with a chic bar, featuring a bright "LUNA" restaurant has cozy seating and staff in casual uniforms, creating a relaxed and inviting atmosphere. THE LINE-UP REFLECTS Ashland's blend of sophistication and earthy appeal, its ability to satisfy town and gown tastes, to bring together in the love of fine theater, both city folks and small-town dwellers who have chosen Ashland for its culture and proximity to the outdoors. Nick and Nora enjoy the dog-friendly atmosphere of the Neuman properties.  To find a place that offers diversions both soothing and exciting render Ashland a jewel of America and the globe. The renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival reaches an audience approaching a half-million and its budget is creeping near $40 million. The fest is the crown jewel  of Ashland's attractions, which includes two splendid sister properties artfully run by the Neuman Hotel Group. Ashland Hills on the fringe of town offers a tranquil, rural setting, and Ashland Springs downtown offers old-world charm, sophistication and proximity to the action. Ashland's main street at night shows off the beauty of Ashland Springs Hotel, once the tallest building between San Francisco and Portland. It is steps from fine theater. Both properties exhibit ambiance aplenty, friendly, efficient service, and fine dining in Larks at the Springs and Luna at the Hills. THE FESTIVAL , now a world class enterprise, was founded by a Scotsman, Angus Bowmer, who called Rogue Valley home. In 1934, Bowmer organized boxing matches to fund his deeper passion, theater. Cookie strolls in the Allen Elizabethan Theatre grounds, a beloved venue. As the play loving audience grew, so did the town's tourism. Today's Ashland also offers a delightful dinner theater, Oregon Cabaret; a fun movie theater, the Varsity; many boutiques, pubs, specialty shops, bars, unique clothing stores and art galleries.   Ashland is also a foodie's paradise. We've dined in a bounty of fine eateries with family and friends from San Francisco, Portland, Seattle, Denver, Chicago and Billings, Montana, my home for many years. Actor Jennie Greenberry plays Belle in "Disney's Beauty and the Beast" and took time for a photo with a young fan. ONE ASSUMES  that Bowmer's spirit is blessing the abundance. The clever, play-loving gentleman's dream that Ashland could support live theater came true. The boxing that funded the first plays was phased out, as audiences opted for Shakespeare, contemporary comedy and drama over pugilism. Temperatures last week topped 110 degrees in Ashland, Oregon as Cookie and Keller took in a raft of cool plays. This year's season at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival has the "something for everyone" credo that Bowmer espoused. In three complementary venues, and 10 productions, one may span centuries, styles and cultures. FOR FANS  of Shakespeare -- whose eloquence headlined the festival for decades -- four plays run in three venues. The time honored "Henry IV" pair -- parts One and Two -- is on tap in the Thomas Theatre, while in the Angus Bowmer Theatre, a magnificent "Julius Caesar" unfolds. "The Merry Wives of Windsor" is regaling crowds in the Allen Elizabethan Theatre. A gifted female actor delightfully renders Falstaff, one of the bard's most colorful creations. "The Odyssey" takes us on an unforgettable journey to ancient lands. The Green Show begins each evening with sprightly music.  Oregon Cabaret Theatre presents entertaining theater and fine fare in a beautifully restored old church in Ashland. Because it offers quality productions and runs Monday, dark day at OSF, it is usually sold out.  The season includes a memorable pair of world premieres, "Hannah and the Dread Gazebo," in the Thomas, and "Off the Rails" in the Bowmer. The Elizabethan also features a mesmerizing "Disney's Beauty and the Beast" with gorgeous voices. "Unison," with high-tech staging and versatile singers, honors the poetry of August Wilson. EACH ACTOR   participates in at least two plays with three to five performances a week, usually a major role in one production and a supporting role in one or two others. It's fun to recognize actors in the pubs and on the street, while on stage, observing them in multiple roles. "Hey, that guy played in 'Caesar' and now he's in an old-west hero." (Cicero is played by a female actor, too.) A player may headline in one production and join the ensemble in the next, since repertory means the shows run in rotation for the February to October season. There's an intense point each June when all shows on the playbill are either being rehearsed or performed. www.osfashland.org ; wwwAshlandHillsHotel.com ; www.AshlandSpringsHotel.com ; www.LUNACafeAshland.com UP NEXT :  The terrorist attacks in Barcelona and southern Spain -- beloved by Cookie and Keller, who will soon return -- have left Cookie depressed and determined to do something, even in a small way. What can we do -- as global citizens -- to halt extremism and take a stand against terrorism. Its most recent victims were simply enjoying a sunny summer day on Barcelona's famed Las Ramblas. What is our individual responsibility? Give it some thought, and travel safely -- with savvy and kindness -- remembering to explore, learn and live. Catch us Friday evenings when we post for each weekend, our take on travel, nature, the arts, famous cities, friends, family, pets and food.  whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller joins legions of tourists to take on the Leaning Tower STORY and PHOTOS By CHRISTENE MEYERS and BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Pisa, Italy, may be world-famous for its iconic Leaning Tower, but this historic Tuscan city offers so much more than a photo opportunity. Nestled along the Arno River, Pisa invites travelers to slow down and soak in its laid-back charm -- where medieval streets, lively piazzas, and hidden cafes create an experience both timeless and authentic. For us, Pisa is a destination worth savoring. No other monument in the world has attracted as much attention of the fabled leaning tower of Pisa. The magnificence of its monuments bears witness to its place in history. Cruise ship passengers flock to it. Many rent a car and drive the 41 miles from Florence. The world’s visitors flock here to be gaze, often listing slightly themselves -- consciously and not -- to admire the grand tower, begun by Bonanno Pisano in 1174. Its foundations were sinking from the beginning and it took nearly 200 years to complete her. That was finally accomplished with great fanfare in 1350, when Pisa was an important Italian port. A line of cruise cruise ships in Livorno, near Pisa, docked under an overcast sky, ready to embark on their next journey after their passengers enjoy the day in Pisa. In the early Middle Ages, Pisa was a much sought-after center of trade. It became a Florentine city in 1405, and was recognizable from afar for its remarkable tilting tower. The area is a rich architectural center, well worth a visit if you’re in Tuscany. A delight of Romanesque architecture, the square is photographed on a daily basis by the masses: Germans, Dutch, French, English, Americans and native Italians, who proudly describe its history, with plenty of hand gestures, of course. Trade, style and silt German poet Goethe once said that Tuscany looks like Italy should and the Romanesque cathedral with its celebrated tower makes Pisa more Italian than any other city. Pisa's Duomo is not quite as dramatic as the one in Florence, but equally interesting. The Piazza del Duomo in Pisa, Italy, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, is an exemplary work of medieval architecture, often referred to as the "Piazza dei Miracoli" (Square of Miracles). This verdant square includes four significant religious buildings: the famous Leaning Tower (campanile), the Cathedral (Duomo), the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo (cemetery). In the 12th Century, when nearby Florence or Firenze was still caught in the upheaval of the Middle Ages, Pisa was at her apex. Situated on the lovely Arno river and just 12 kilometers from the Ligurian Sea, the town had ties to Middle East ports and beyond. Pisa had a brief heyday, and by 1300 the younger, more vital cities of the region began to pass her by and in the 15th Century, nature stole the bustling port by filling her harbor with silt. World War II caused an even greater blow to the picturesque city. Extensive damage fortunately spared the centerpiece of Pisan culture, the spectacular Piazza de Duomo. That remains remarkably intact, incorporating both the European and Eastern architectural styles which caught the eyes of the well traveled Pisan merchants and sailors. Scaffolding and immense cables have been part of Pisa's history for years, through continuing controversial preservation efforts. For a time, visitors could not climb the tower, as we did years ago but today, visitors can again climb the narrow, spiraling steps to the top for a unique, tilted view lasting about 30 minutes. Tickets should be booked in advance. Inside Pisa's Duomo, a Gothic look greets the eye. A structural failure, it seems, was finally pinpointed to the third floor centuries ago, attributed to shifting deep beneath the earth’s surface. Designer engineers and structural architects from all over the world have been solicited for their advice. For the tower represents Pisa’s fundamental role in Italian culture, with its contributions to both a new era in sculpture and to the classic painting which would inspire many of Italy’s best and brightest: Giotto and the artists of the Camposanto. New artistic culture is born During the first two centuries of the millennium, the Pisan republic played an important role in civilized life. Marble had not been widely used for several centuries, but the Pisan architects returned to it, drawn by its beauty and durability. The square they envisioned was the most grandiose project conceived since the times of ancient Rome and Nicola Pisano and his son Giovanni would, through their remarkable sculptural accomplishment, make a name for themselves to parallel those of Dante and Petrarch in literature. Italy’s great artists of the following centuries would pay homage to the Pisanos as do we all when we admire the works of Brunelleschi, Donatello and Michelangelo. All that glitters: Pisa's Duomo ceiling is gold. As building progressed, hundreds of workers were assigned to tasks both back-breaking and delicate. For the nearly two centuries of construction, the square was the largest work site in Europe, and its effect was wide-ranging. Architecture students traveled hundreds of miles to observe the then inventive techniques and merging of influences. Marble was appropriated from Roman monuments. Islamic designs were incorporated in the cathedral’s Duomo or dome. Internal colonades rose up from intricate geometrical decorations on the floors and the sculptures of the Battistero or baptistry took on a decidedly Gothic look. The cloister of the Camposanto, or cemetery, reflected these varied cultural influences and students and masters from throughout Europe must certainly have smiled with pride as they recognized their own cultures’ unique contributions. Eve's apple gets a new spin in this Tuscan poster. The public unveiling of the square was a huge affair, with feasting, dancing and religious ceremony. Builders and stone carvers were honored and toasted and the event was attended by noblemen and ladies from throughout the vineclad Tuscan hills. Guests came from as near as the villages of Casastrada, Mura, Il Castagna, and neighboring Siena, famed for its Medieval spirit, as well as Italy’s larger sister cities of Rome, Venice and Florence. In the neighborhood If your travels take you to Tuscany, you’ll surely visit Florence, the favorite Italian city of many, including this reporter. It is immensely welcoming, inviting for walkers and picture-postcard beautiful, surrounded by gentle hills and dotted with villas. Gorgeous fruits, nuts, candies await in Pisa and throughout Tuscany. The steep hills of the eastern and central part of the area are latticed by olive orchards and vineyards and the coast, especially near the inviting town of Grosseto, is breathtaking. Firenze was the birthplace of the Renaissance and the city has a dignity and grace that take the visitor back. The harmony imbued by famous men survives the thousands of motor scooters and abundant cellular phones that have become a way of life in Italy of 2000. For here Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Dante, Donatello, Ghiberti and Galileo held court. The Medicis came to power here, amassing a fortune of the world’s best art, and San Giovanni walked here, known to the faithful as Saint John the Baptist. The area is rich in history, dating back to the Etruscans. Romans followed and the name, Florentia, was born. Prophetically, it meant “destined to flourish” and flourish it did, through Goths, Byzantines, Lombards, clashing Guelphs and Ghibellines, warring blacks and white tribes. Florentia even survived the deadly Black Plague which took no sides and wiped out half the city in the 14th century. A convenient shuttle bus takes visitors back and forth to see Pisa's Duomo and the famous tower. Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy a few days in Florence, and it’s a lovely drive to Siena from Pisa. You’ll turn inland and weave past industrial towns and the art-filled village of San Miniato. There, you’ll gaze from a castle above the town’s 12th Century cathedral. You’ll be the king or queen of the whole Arno Valley as you take minor roads through unspoiled Tuscan hills and towns of medieval towers. Magnificent views abound from lookout posts built for prestige by noblemen. Stop for a glass of vino because you’re in Chianti country. Dine on fish soup and fresh pasta, and stay at hotels converted from Renaissance palaces. Stroll the charming piazzas and meditate in the cathedrals and palaces, surrounded by ancient and carefully preserved paintings. Remarkably, this part of Italy still has the atmosphere of hundreds of years ago. The landscape is a patchwork of textures bathed in a beautiful soft, golden pink light that has attracted painters through the centuries. English is spoken throughout this part of Italy, but even your basic Italian is appreciated. A smile, a “prego” and a “grazie” go a long way towards international diplomacy. You need not be religious to cherish this part of the world. Its magic will touch you regardless of your persuasion and you’ll almost see the knights on horseback and hear the trumpets blare. You’ll step back in time on the narrow streets, protected by silent walls to hold you however briefly in the richest and most beautiful part of Italy. Yes, Pisa is home to a major UNESCO World Heritage site: the Piazza del Duomo (also known as the Piazza dei Miracoli or "Square of Miracles"). Inscribed in 1987, this walled area contains a world-renowned complex of four medieval architectural masterpieces. If you go: The two best ways to see this historic and well preserved section of Italy are by renting your own car, or by cruising into the nearby port of Livorno on a luxury liner then taking side trips. Among the world’s best lines, Crystal Cruises offers a luxurious transit of this enticing part of the world, and our last Mediterranean visit on Crystal’s Serenity was a pampering and relaxing treat. Livorno is on the west coast in the Ligurian sea about 80 minutes from Firenze. Pisa is nearby. Many other more reasonably priced lines navigate the area, including Royal Caribbean and Holland America, which offer fine value for the dollar, which is increasing against the Euro daily. Remember to explore, learn and live. And check us out Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

WESTERN HEMISPHERE'S OLDEST FULL-SCALE ELIZABETHAN STAGE HAS HIDDEN LIFE The Allen Elizabethan Theatre opens for summer shows, this year two by Shakespeare, one by Sondheim. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The lobby of the Angus Bowmer Theatre is warm, welcoming. WHAT'S AN ACTOR TO DO? Oregon Shakespeare theater It's a sweltering day on stage, he's loaded down with an elaborate costume.  The temperature is climbing.  He's sweating. It's still act one and the temperature is climbing. But wait.  The actor has a brief moment off stage and gets relief from tiny ice packs dropped into his garb. Thanks to clever costumers and seamstresses, the show goes on.  The actor is much cooler. This is only one of the little known facts revealed by actor Jeffrey King, who took a couple dozen theater lovers backstage for a show as enjoyable as a regular production. WE WERE  privileged to gain insight into the Oregon Shakespeare Festival's behind-the-scene workings. Actor Jeffrey King gives a lively backstage tour. King has acted with the OSF company for 15 seasons, with an impressive range of roles in works --  from "A Streetcar Named Desire" to "Hamlet." He also derives pleasure from his role offstage as one of the able backstage tour directors, answering questions about the festival, which presents Greek tragedy, new work and everything in between. He is a master of explaining the curious and little known facts about the festival, considered the oldest and largest professional regional repertory theater company in the country. Established in 1935, OSF has garnered many honors and remains the oldest existing full-scale Elizabethan stage in the Western Hemisphere. KING DESCRIBED  the yeomen's effort of mounting nearly 800 performances a season, operating on a budget of $33 million and reaching an audience of more than 400,000 in three very different theaters. For me, a return to the OSF's Ashland, Oregon, base, is going home. I've logged decades of seasons with this Tony winning company of 600 theater professionals and an impressive 700 volunteers. An ambitious student program is an Oregon Shakespeare Festival rule. KING TOOK  us to all three of the theaters which make up the festival venues:  the 600-seat Bowmer, the 1,190-seat Elizabethan and the 280-seat Thomas whose seating can be arranged in a variety of formats to accommodate up  to 360. We learned: * That understudies have understudies.  When an understudy takes over, the domino theory reigns -- someone steps in for the understudy.  That's all smoothly arranged, and happened the night we saw "The Comedy of Errors." Entertaining and illuminating bits were gleaned by an enthusiastic group on an OSF backstage tour. * That the OSF has a "describer" so that the blind can "see" the play.  Just as the OSF offers audio enhancement for hard of hearing play lovers, the describer helps the blind, explaining the action from a booth. * THAT THE Bowmer's green room is shared by two sets of actors -- one from the Bowmer production upstairs and the other from the nearby Elizabethan Theatre.  Each production has its own monitor.  One season, the actors from the period piece, "Henry IV," Part I, chatted between scenes with the actors from "She Loves Me." * That there is a point in every June when all 11 shows on the annual playbill are either being rehearsed or performed. * That most of the actors participate in at least two plays with three to five performances a week, usually a major role in one production and a supporting role in another. The Allen Elizabethan Theater as viewed from lovely Lithia Park in Ashland. * We also learned the reason for the happy presence of many young people at all the performances we saw:  the OSF's school visit program sends actors to more than 100 schools, presenting performances and workshops in Shakespeare and modern literature to more than 70,000 students in California, Kansas,  Oregon and Washington. Its outreach program and courting of students is one of the most successful and ambitious programs in the U.S. COMING UP:  From backstage at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival to backstage shipboard, behind the giant kitchen on Royal Caribbean's Serenade of the Seas.  Cruising is dear to the hearts of Cookie and Keller and they learned a few shipshape tricks from the chefs.  Remember to explore, learn and live. There's much backstage activity aboard a cruise ship, too!  Let us know what you'd like us to write about in our Wednesdays and weekends posts. Tell your friends about www.whereiscookie.com

Oregon Cabaret Theatre attracts sell-out crowds for a variety of performances. "Kinky Boots" drew raves for its recent run. Up next is a Poirot mystery, running through Nov. 5. POPULAR CABARET ENTERTAINS THEATER LOVERS IN RENOVATED CHURCH WITH GREAT SHOWS, CLASSY CHANDELIER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Tucked into the artsy heart of Ashland, the Oregon Cabaret Theatre offers a dazzling night out that blends Broadway-caliber performances with an intimate dining experience. Housed in a beautifully restored historic building, this hidden gem invites travelers to sip, savor, and soak in live entertainment just steps away from the renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Whether you’re a theater lover or simply looking for a memorable evening, the Cabaret delivers a uniquely Ashland experience. Play goers at "Kinky Boots" enjoy appetizers, drinks and the company of friends between acts of "Kinky Boots." WHEN OREGON  Cabaret Theatre launched in 1986, its building already had a colorful history. The former Baptist church had been a pillar of the community for years, but had been fallen to ruin. In the late 1960s, after years of languishing, it was sold and "the Old Pink Church" went through several owners before it was purchased and saved by a visionary man. Craig Hudson began a meticulous renovation  to restore the structure to its 1911 appearance, including replication of many of the unique stained glass windows. His transformation included landscaped gardens, tiered seating and service areas. He even salvaged a magnificent crystal chandelier and other appointments from a 1927 movie palace in Lansdale, Pennsylvania. A smashing performance of "Kinky Boots" entertained sell-out crowds this summer at the cabaret. OUR FAMILY  began its long run with the cabaret the same year it opened and since 1986, we've seen at least production almost every year. Through the years, the repertoire has expanded from a single show to a five show season with 270 performances spanning February to New Year's Eve.  The cabaret has also created 15 original shows, and has staged many hit musicals, including "Sweeney Todd" and, recently, "Kinky Boots." Delightful food is part of the fun at the cabaret, where play goers can enjoy fine dining, too.  We saw the cabaret's production of that Tony Award-winning musical, and it didn't disappoint. The energetic production boasted the same high energy we'd enjoyed in the Broadway version, a touching tale of daring and determination. The Cabaret offered dazzling choreography, powerful acting and jazzy costuming with a first-rate cast. The show's infectious, appealing spirit was enhanced by lively musical numbers.   OREGON CABARET Theatre offers a historic, welcoming setting -- a beautiful small venue --  complemented by well staged productions and a tasty menu.  This appealing amalgam makes OCT a favorite for this reporter and thousands of other visitors to Ashland. Sets are clever, acting sharp, music tuneful and small space well used. Costumes, lighting, make-up all follow suit. The Cyndi Lauper musical, with a Harvey Fierstein book, drew raves at the cabaret this summer . Oregon Cabaret Theatre is an institution in Ashland, just up a stroll up from Main Street. Sure, this picturesque town is most famous for the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. But don't overlook one of the country's most successful dinner theaters, Oregon Cabaret Theatre.   The Cabaret presents an interesting display of each show with a miniature set  and costume designs.   BELOVED ACTOR , dancer and the Cabaret's founding member and artistic director for years, Jim Giancarlo, passed away in 2014. He is deeply missed, but artistic director and accomplished actor Valerie Rachelle took over with spirit and enterprise.  She has artfully preserved the vision of Giancarlo  promising "Our stage may be small, but the scope of our stories is large." She was a spectacular Mrs. Lovett in "Sweeney Todd" and knows her way around both sides of the footlights. She maintains the spirit and seating of the intimate house, giving viewers a bird's eye view of the action. We've seen dozens of top-drawer shows from all over the house.  We've sat on the ground floor, the balcony, and the bar, all good seats because of the clever tiering and seat and table arrangements. Sight lines are fine everywhere, thanks to Rachelle's keen understanding of the importance of audience connection.     FOR PROXIMITY to the cabaret, you can't beat the lodging of Ashland Springs Hotel, just a few steps across the avenue and down to Ashland's Main Street, restored by an enterprising couple much as the Cabaret was renovated and returned to a glorious structure. Front row seats give viewers proximity to the action on stage, but the seating is such that there are no bad views from the house. Hudson's  restoration of the one-time church has delighted thousands since the transformation.  It still reminds of its 1911 appearance, and the stained glass windows are kept sparklingly clean. The theater's unique appointments -- including that vintage crystal chandelier -- are part of the appeal, and the menu includes delectable appetizers, entrees and the famous Dick Hay pie, a decadent chocolate, ice cream and peanut butter dessert named after an OSF designer. If you missed "Kinky Boots," you can enjoy the Poirot mystery and popular Christmas show which round out the season. oregoncabaret.com ; ashlandspringshotel.com Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers outside the Cabaret, with  their favorite Ashland Springs Hotel behind them.   Christene "Cookie" Meyers is featured beneath a magnificent Deborah Butterfield Horse, on display at Honolulu Art Museum. Butterfield spends part of her time in Montana and keeps a studio in Hawaii.  UP NEXT: Honolulu is a favorite city of sun seekers and couples looking for a blend of beach fun and nightlife.  It also boasts an extraordinary art museum and we look at its impressive collection of more than 50,000 pieces spanning 5,000 years of culture in the Pacific, Asia, Africa and Europe. After Honolulu Art Museum, we're cavorting with the whales in Depoe Bay, Oregon, then blasting off to Kennedy Space Center. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, the arts, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Yorkshire terrier Nick enjoys the sun on a late-summer hike with us near Coos Bay, Oregon, a splendid retreat. This quiet but active corner of Oregon offers fine food, a paradise for nature lovers and a pampering hotel casino. If you are fascinated by bridges, make a drive through southwestern Oregon.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER OREGON HAS  a special place in my family's heart. And, like memories of family, Oregon's coastal towns have a timeless quality.  Coos Bay evokes happy memories of a bygone time. It's retained that small-town charm that means the cafe waitress greets you and knows how you like your coffee. Yet it has big-city attractions and amenities -- a lovely resort hotel staffed by friendly folk, proud of the area and eager to share their knowledge. Fine shopping. Nature. Mill Casino Hotel is a beautifully built, handsomely  landscaped get-away in southwestern Oregon. Thumbs up! PEOPLE GREET one another on the street. Yards are neatly groomed.  Pets are well behaved, there's an active artistic life. The scenery is lush. We'd heard from writer friends about the Mill Casino Hotel and loved our gorgeous bay view from the hotel's pretty tower. There's also a cozy lodge with lovely woodworking.  My half-amphibian partner particularly enjoyed the water life, for the harbor is the largest deep-draft coastal harbor between San Francisco Bay and Puget Sound, and is Oregon's second busiest maritime commerce center after Portland, four hours north. A variety of water activity unfolds from a room at Mill Casino Hotel. Pleasure boats, freighters with lumber, sand, gravel and other goods provide activity. The hotel offers free shuttle, parking and valet services, an attractive fitness room and welcoming spa, arcade and business center. We felt pampered with comfy pillows and some of the best hotel coffee we've had in hundreds of hotel stays -- Red Wagon Organic Coffee.  Were it not for my gambling penchant and desire to try a few of Coos Bay's fabled seafood restaurants, we'd have little need to leave the room, but we ventured downstairs to squander some fun money in the pleasant casino, and check out the hotel's excellent eateries -- one casual, one more formal. THE VILLAGES of North Bend, Eastside, and Charleston cluster together near Coos Bay. You can satisfy your seafood yearnings in this picturesque part of southwestern Oregon.  It has more fish restaurants than one can   Captain's Choice Family Fish House offers pleasant, homespun ambiance, friendly service and delicious seafood. shake a pole at. Blue Heron, Shark Bites, Fisherman's Grotto all serve tasty fare and we made a second trip to Captain's Choice for its superb fish and chips.  Keller, here, and Cookie, hiked around and under several bridges.  . What we appreciated  about this pretty, quietly busy part of Oregon was the mix of sophistication and "laid back". Oregonians, like my fellow Montanans, enjoy a lovely meal, and a top hotel.  They also love  nature.  Hiking, biking, birding are favorite hobbies in this little corner of Oregon. We also noticed posters for art and jazz festivals, and sampled many homemade goodies, from a fantastic berry pie to gooey cinnamon rolls.  And, like my native Montana, there's no sales tax, so bring home a piece of Oregon's famous handmade pottery -- and some of her delightful wine and beer!  www.themillcasino.com ;  coosbay.org Keller and Cookie celebrate his rebound from liver transplantation aboard Hornblower, a favorite outing when they are based in San Diego.  NEXT UP:   Answering the request of more than 5,000 readers, we bring you up to speed with our transplant saga.  All systems are go, including the green light to visit Montana this year, and make our   autumn trip to southern Europe.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us Fridays when we post our novel look at travel, nature and the arts. And click this link to refresh your memory of the transplant story:  http://www.whereiscookie.com/2017/06/transplant-tale-into-light-with-merging.html

Autumn colors make a beautiful photo: chokecherries, wild rose, ornamental willow, aspen. POETS PAY HOMAGE TO COLORFUL FALL IN FULL GLORY NOW IN MONTANA Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on a walk near their Stillwater home. "Life starts all over again,  when it gets crisp in the fall..." --F. Scott Fitzgerald STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER NOWHERE  in all my global jaunts have I seen autumns as lovely as Montana's. Sure, the Swiss Alps beg "stay a while" with their dramatic dips. Norway's birch and pine forests charm with their contrasting canvas of yellow, orange and deep green.  The first scarlets and golds of autumn blanket the forests of Montana. But Montana's fall takes a towering top place in my seasonal book. Right now, we're relishing the change in the air, warm days followed by cool evenings, swaying aspen, pirouetting leaves and the distinctive, autumnal feeling that winter is knocking on the door.   CRITTERS are on the prowl, making nests, stockpiling food, planning for their long winter as we take down screens and replace them with storm windows. Seasonal birds are gone. The rare migrating grosbeak visits the feeder as the faithful chickadee remains. I hope to fulfill F. Scott Fitzgerald's encouragement, that "life starts all over again....in the fall." Boy, howdy, could we use a new beginning to this lousy year with the virus, political unrest, riots, looting and loss of theater, travel, dining out. Oh, sure, we're still upright, "on the right side of the dirt," as my grandfather Gus said. But won't we all welcome New Year's Eve, as we flip the calendar from 2020 to a new year of promise, 2021? MEANWHILE , we'll share a few more favorite autumn quotes. William Cullen Bryant called autumn "the year's last loveliest smile." Emily Bronte waxed poetic with "Every leaf sings bliss to me, fluttering from the autumn tree." Poets wax about autumn's splendors, here in the golden valley of the Stillwater River, near Nye, Montana. My favorite autumn quote is from Emily Dickinson, who observed that autumn was "A little this side of the snow, and that side of the haze."  THAT MYSTICA L poet, Albert Camus, called autumn "a second spring, when every leaf is a flower." Shira Tamir, who writes about nature and the human condition, said “Anyone who thinks fallen leaves are dead has never watched them dancing on a windy day.” Philosopher, poet Rainer Maria Rilke said of autumn, "At no other time does the earth let itself be inhaled in one smell, the ripe earth; in a smell that is in no way inferior to the smell of the sea, bitter where it borders on taste, and more honeysweet where you feel it touching the first sounds. Containing depth within itself, darkness, something of the grave almost.”   Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie"  Meyers enjoy an autumn walk this week. We have not experienced a Montana autumn for more than a decade. We're enjoying the colors, warmth and transformation of nature as it unveils.   It won't last long, so take it in before it vanishes. HERE IN  Montana, the trees will soon be bare and our driveway will accumulate several feet of serious snow. The good news about winter's much needed moisture is it diminishes fire hazard for next summer and makes the spring grasses all the greener, the first blooms of columbine, wild geranium and lupine all the lovelier.    Winter is an etching, spring a watercolor, summer an oil painting and autumn a mosaic of them all.” --Poet Stanley Horowitz UP NEXT: Road trip time. As many of us continue to avoid air travel, we offer updated tips on traveling by auto in these Covid times.  Make certain everyone in the car is equipped with tissue, individual hand sanitizer and a mask for rest stops. The parks are uncrowded, gas is reasonable and it's a good time to appreciate the changing colors.  More tips await next week. Meanwhile  remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family and more: whereiscookie.com

Stunning sunset over Vancouver from the Blue Horizon Hotel, which offers small, enticing balconies with splendid views. TOURISTS CAN HIKE, BOAT, WHALE WATCH, DINE, HOP A TROLLEY, SAIL, STROLL, RELAX, ROW A BOAT!  Vancouver's night skyline is beautiful in the water's reflection. Harbour Cruises offers a splendid sunset dinner cruise with this view. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Cookie and Keller enjoy Harbour Cruises'  sunset dinner cruise, which offers a lovely  meal, fine live music and spectacular views.  VANCOUVER IS a city of contrasts, cultures and contentment. People from around the world call this vibrant North American city home. Tourists from an exciting melting pot flock to British Columbia's largest city to enjoy classy cuisine, gorgeous weather, world-class parks, museums and art. Vancouver is an attractive city, both fit and fun.  Here,  rowers navigate the waters on a relaxing Sunday morning.   Vancouver combines a refined, civilized feel with a vibrant, fit world view. Stanley Park is a proud part of Vancouver's history, with lovely boulevards for strolling, a nine-kilometer seawall , fine close dining, aquarium and playground. It is one of Canada's best loves parks.   Trolleys, parks, bike paths, restaurants, galleries, fruit and flower stands welcome the visitor, and we took it all in during our five-day stay.  We actually extended our airline tickets from three days to five, so taken were we with this lively, worldly city. Granville Island is a treasure trove of shops, galleries,  eateries and a splendid, popular market with fresh everything. Blue Horizon Hotel is central to the action. Its blue  tiles are its trademark, but a pink roof glows at night. Stanley Park boasts many wonders. This Ontario  tourist poses within a huge, time-honored redwood. WE WERE BASED at Blue Horizon Hotel, which epitomizes the old adage: "location, location, location."  The downtown hotel takes its name from striking blue Italian-mosaic tiles which drape it. Its handsome, angular top is lit up, pretty in pink at night.We had a lovely corner room in the classic high rise. www.bluehorizonhotel.com We loved the location for its proximity to Harbour Green Park on the waterfront, with its highly rated Harbour Cruises, which offers a splendid sunset dinner cruise. We recommend the tasty, reasonably priced buffet with terrific music, best we've heard on a ship in 200 cruises worldwide. Try the holiday cruise with festive buffet and live carolers.  www.boatcruises.com Cactus Club Cafes are sprinkled around Vancouver.    WE DINED  three times at nearby Cactus Club Cafe, not because it was our only choice in this foodie town but because its appetizers are fabulous. We enjoyed the tuna stack with a citrus touch, flavorful calamari, succulent mini burgers, crunchy edamame, spicy szechuan chicken wraps, delightful desserts, reasonably priced wines by the glass and even a nice non-alcoholic beer. Several nature hikes bridges and explorations await at the engaging and nature driven Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. There are several Cactus Club venues in Vancouver, each distinctive. A great find for us, this class act place with friendly service and delicious fare. We'll be back in spring.   www.cactusclubcafe.com   YOU won't want to leave this exercise-friendly city with hiking paths and thousands of bikers, until you've tried these other Vancouver experiences: *The Vancouver Trolley with its delightful "Hop-On, Hop-Off City Attractions Tour" which we used to explore Stanley Park, Chinatown, Gastown and Granville Island. All 10 drivers offered live commentary and fun stories about the city they love. It picked us up each day right at our Blue Horizon Hotel. www.vancouvertrolley.com * Granville Island and Stanley Park --- both worthy of at least a half day for the fun and attractions, shopping, dining, enjoying. www.granvilleisland.com Cookie's bridge-climb smile. *False Creek Ferry, which gets you from downtown to Granville Island in charming 12-passenger boats which encourage relaxation. granvilleislandferries.bc.ca *Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, like no other park we've explored anywhere. We climbed the famous 1889 Capilano Suspension Bridge and found the view breathtaking and the bridge  "reassuringly wobbly" as promised. We took two of the entertaining nature tours, too! www.capbridge.com *Finally, for transit between Victoria and Vancouver, consider a relaxing trip on BC Ferries, which offers pretty trips in the Vancouver Island area, and along the picturesque Sunshine Coast. We loved our efficient trip from Victoria to Vancouver -- a quick bus ride just blocks from our hotel, to the harbour, with the same bus whisking us efficiently to within a couple blocks of our Vancouver Hotel. Four hours from door to door, a beautiful boat ride on a pretty ferry.    Old Town Theatre is one of several  exciting San Diego area venues serving challenging work,  recently August Wilson. Paul McCartney gave a generous nearly three-hour concert days ago at Coachella Festival in southern California.  UP NEXT:  A glut of riches awaits if you happen to live in southern California and love theater and rock 'n' roll.  If you are a fan of vintage R&R, you've been on a roll with Bob Dylan, Paul McCartney, Mick Jagger, Jimmy Buffett and more.  Even if you don't live here, you'll enjoy the rich variety of offerings available for theater and music lovers. Tony Bennett's playing a sold out gig Nov. 5, and from cutting edge drama, to time honored chestnuts and vintage comedy, San Diego's your place to be for theater.  Remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekends for a lively take on travel, nature and the arts. Please tell your smart friends about us.

San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge is known worldwide for its dramatic bridge towers. Since 1941, it has been featured  in a wide range of movies -- from suspense dramas to family fare and science fiction. WORLD'S MOST FAMOUS BRIDGE CELEBRATES  81 YEARS WITH DOZENS OF FILM APPEARANCES -- CAMEOS TO STARRING ROLES Tourists and locals alike traverse the bridge on  foot, by car, bike and even aboard a vintage fire truck. Hollywood has shot many pictures on and around her.  'San Francisco, open your Golden Gate, you let no stranger wait outside your door....' STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER and Hollywood studio archives ONE OF THE  world's most famous landmarks is celebrating her 81st birthday this month with a star-studded string of movie close-ups to her credit. The song that became the anthem for 1906 earthquake survivors implied what savvy Hollywood has long known: no one is a stranger to this magnificent architectural and engineering feat. Hollywood has loved the landmark for decades, even when the bridge was but a youngster. DID YOU KNOW  that since the bridge opened to the public in 1937, it has appeared in nearly three dozen movies -- romances to science fiction and disaster epics, suspense thrillers to Disney pics? Director John Huston loved San Francisco and used the bridge in his film, "The Maltese Falcon." Right, we toured the bridge recently aboard a vintage 1955 fire engine, for our own movie. Jimmy Stewart rescued Kim Novak in "Vertigo." Director Alfred Hitchcock loved San Francisco. At the young age of four years, the bridge made its movie debut. Director John Huston used it to enhance the mood of his 1941 film noir classic, "The Maltese Falcon," starring Humphrey Bogart as the no-nonsense private detective Sam Spade. Director Alfred Hitchcock, who loved northern California and the City by the Bay, used the bridge in a famous scene in his 1958 thriller, "Vertigo." Remember when Jimmy Stewart's detective Scotty rescued apparently suicidal Madeleine (Kim Novak) from the bay?   Visit the bridge by fire truck Christopher Reeve in “Superman: The Movie,’’ saved a group of teens just as their school bus was about to slip off the ‘quake-damaged bridge. "Planet of the Apes" films have used the bridge. "Star Trek" has used the bridge more than once. Roger Moore's James Bond took a turn on the bridge, too. My favorite James Bond, Roger Moore, went on location in San Francisco for the 1985 film "A View to a Kill." The suave Agent 007 took on his nemesis Max Zorin on one of the bridge's iconic towers high above the roiling waters and whizzing traffic. The bridge is constantly being painted its distinctive  orange by a full-time crew, to keep it looking good for international tourists and for the movies. IN MORE  than one "Planet of the Apes” movies, the bridge has been featured. In 2011, a super smart chimp, Caesar, led a revolution of apes and a whiz bang fight scene on the bridge pitted apes against the California Highway Patrol. Remember the shock as a giant tsunami hurdled a huge freighter at the bridge in the 2015 disaster film, “San Andreas"?     THE BRIDGE has taken bows in romances, too, as in “Going the Distance” a 2010 romantic comedy starring Drew Barrymore and Justin Long. "Star Trek" fans know that the bridge was featured in the 1986 time-travel adventure “Star Trek IV – The Voyage Home.’' A captured Klingon Bird of Prey starship from 2286 flew under the foggy span to land in 1980s San Francisco. Then William Shatner’s James T. Kirk and Leonard Nimoy’s Mister Spock rode a bus across the bridge to Sausalito, trying to track a rare humpback whale. In the 21st century “Star Trek’’ flicks, Starfleet Command runs the galaxy from headquarters near -- guess where -- the Golden Gate Bridge. UP NEXT :   Elevate your artistic visions and feed your soul with a  satisfying offering of fine theater.  The arts are bread and butter -- not mere dessert -- and there's nothing like a first-rate production. Here in southern California, San Diego's North Coast Repertory Theatre is serving up a smashing version of  Jules Verne's classic novel, "Around the World in 80 Days."  Five gifted actors, dozens of quick costume changes and inspired direction make for an engaging time.  It's held over through Feb. 11. Don't miss it -- and other San Diego theater treats which we'll preview next time. Remember to explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature and art.

Cookie and Keller enjoy the view from high atop the trees on "Cliffwalk," one of several adventures at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park in Vancouver, B.C. The bridge has attracted crowds for a century plus. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS Tourists from around the world visit Vancouver's Capilano Suspension Bridge Park to commune with nature via bridges, trails, tree houses. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Capilano Suspension Bridge Park offers a full day of adventures, climbs, walks, totems, history and birds. WHEN A CLEVER  Scottish engineer conceived of the idea of a bridge across the Capilano River in West Vancouver, B.C., people laughed. He'd admired the river, had fished for trout and salmon in it, watched raptors swoop down to take their dinner from it.  He wanted to share its wonders with his friends, so devised a bridge of hemp ropes and cedar planks.  People loved it! The bridge was originally built in 1889 by Mackay, an enterprising developer and park commissioner in Vancouver. His hemp and cedar creation was replaced with a sturdier wire cable bridge in 1903. In 1910 Edward Mahon purchased the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which has been reinforced and updated through the decades and is now visited by nearly 900,000 adventure seekers a year. A great horned owl is one of the stars of "Raptor's Ridge."  WE WERE among hundreds to spend a lovely autumn day on the 450-foot long bridge, finding it indeed "reassuringly wobbly" as  the brochure promises.  We also got up close and Climb with us in Sydney, Auckland personal with legendary birds of prey, listening to a fascinating naturalist-trainer describe his devotion to the great horned owl and Harris hawk in a delightful sanctuary for rescued birds, "Raptor's Ridge."  We even took the scary "Cliffwalk," a suspended walkway along sheer granite cliff faces several hundred feet above the river. The gorgeous site was first admired by developer Mackay in 1888, when he purchased 24 square kilometres of old growth forest on both sides of the Capilano River just north of the city. Enchanted by the views, he was also an early-day environmentalist. He was 65 when he built a simple cabin at the southern edge of the canyon, hoping to stem the trend of logging which he saw all around him. Determined to protect his beloved recreational property on the river's north shore, he took up residency and became a constant presence.  THE BRIDGE  idea was his way of consolidating the two halves of his property. Vintage photos show the ladies hitching up their skirts to make the rickety walk. I was in jeans, but still found the experience daunting. The bridge sways and moves and kids jumped on it to frighten one another -- and me! "Heart-stopping," the guide predicted.  Not quite, but for this newly converted climber, now with six bridges under my climber's belt, I  admit it made my palms and forehead sweat. Keller peeks out from behind a First Nations totem at the park. It is one of several intricately carved totems telling native people stories. The Capilano Suspension Bridge Park is a wonderful place for an outing by anyone who is moderately fit. It is much loved by locals and tourists alike and is, by many accounts, the most visited site in British Columbia, Canada. The well designed experience begins with a look at First Nations totems, then a wonderfully curated display of photos and memorabilia to bring to life the stories of the bridge and park's invention.   Visitors commune with nature, high atop the trees on various walkways and bridges into the rain forest. Butterflies delight tourists from around the world, in Canada's  appealing Victoria Butterfly Gardens in British Columbia. UP  NEXT : Butterflies enchant Cookie wherever she travels, since one landed on her nose when she was three, on a visit to her great aunt Lilian's farm in Kansas. But we're not in Kansas anymore -- we're at Victoria, B.C.'s Butterfly Gardens, with more than two dozen types of wondrous butterflies, plus some carnivorous plants, gorgeous moths, noisy parrots, well fed tortoises and flamingos. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekends when we post another story about our nature- and arts-driven globe trotting

Elegance and style greet the eye at every turn, and antiques meet the latest in technology, at Barcelona's Claris Hotel. Here's the spectacular view from the elevator as one whisks to one's room above an artful interior courtyard. Below, right, Antoni Gaudi's famed Casa Battlo is within easy walking distance from the Claris. BARCELONA BEAUTY: CLARIS HOTEL GREETS THE GUEST WITH MUSEUM CLASS SURROUNDINGS, SUPERB SERVICE, LOCATION  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ELEGANCE WITH EASE.  That seemingly simple recipe for success is what puts Barcelona's lovely Claris Hotel in a league of its own. The Claris is one of four uniquely appointed, art driven properties owned by Derby Hotels, a small and superbly run group of hotels in Barcelona, Madrid, Paris and London. Each hotel contains a fortune in art, not surprisingly, for the owner is an art scholar, owner of one of Europe's most exclusive private art collections. WE DISCOVERED these elegant hotels through fellow museum buffs, also travel writers. Their blend of old-world service, antiques, artwork, Catalan spirit and contemporary amenities is to be savored. Beautifully displayed and carefully lit sculpture catch the eye at every turn at Claris.  The source of our enthusiasm is a man named Jordi Clos.  As chairman and founder of Derby Hotels Collection, he displays an eye for beauty and class, sharing it with the hotels' fortunate clientele. The savvy Catalan businessman and his son are experts at knowing what makes a hotel unique.  First, give the well traveled visitor something special. Cultivate an atmosphere of personalized service. Make every guest feel welcome.   Create an aura that says "unique." The Claris does all this and more. WE WERE offered cava or fresh-squeezed juice as we waited briefly for our room, a treat because we'd arrived several hours before check-in, following a Greek Isles cruise.  (A lesser hotel would have stored our bags and asked us to return later. Instead, we had our room in minutes.)   Hotelier Clos is a renowned Egyptologist, collector and sponsor of art.  Jordi Clos is a well known aficionado who shares his  personal collection with clients in four stunning properties. So for our week-long Claris stay, we were surrounded by world-class sculpture and paintings in the restaurants and public areas.  Retreating to our room, we relaxed amid gorgeous tapestry, antique mirrors, pre-Columbian sculpture and a headboard above the bed in Elegance, artwork and superb service greet the Claris guest.  the shape of a crown.  Perfect for this Leo -- fit for a queen. We marveled at the designers' sense of style, color and fabric, the weaving of a sense of beauty.  WE'D BEEN TO  Barcelona many times, but wanted to revisit the famed Gaudi buildings and his Sagrada Familia, and we enjoyed strolling the hotel's distinctive neighborhood, the famed L'Eixample District. -- Breakfast pastry bar at the Claris: croissants, rich grain breads made that morning, beautiful sweets, even a gluten-free section. Sunset atop the Claris is a time for unwinding, enjoying a cocktail, admiring stately boulevards and busy life below. Clos also chairs the Clos Archaeological Foundation, which owns the Egyptian Museum of Barcelona, down the street from the Claris. This  collection -- open to the public -- exhibits the family's devotion to Egypt's culture.  (Clos has funded archaeological digs for a quarter century.)  EACH OF the four Clos properties is well located.  In Barcelona, the Claris is the grand dame of the city's famed L'Eixample district, with its celebrated dining scene, high-end boutiques and diverse nightlife.  Our suite featured a beautiful tapestry, sculpture, antiques and modern amenities: flat-screen TV and espresso maker. The Clos passion for art and culture  inspired The Claris breakfast buffet befits the hotel's sense of style and variety. Above, Jimmy helps Keller plan. his unique collection of hotels,  exhibiting  classical  artistic taste. Each hotel -- like the city it inhabits -- has its own personality.  L'Eixample's Modernista architecture complements the Claris, blending the stately and modern and near  the famed Pedrera and Casa Battlo. We pledged to return as we said a reluctant goodbye to Jimmy and Alvin in the breakfast restaurant. We'd miss the art, roses, Mediterranean cuisine, glorious spa, impeccable service -- the Claris class. At Mas La Boella, a beautiful sense of serenity envelopes the guest, in a retreat of olive trees, gardens and tranquility. UP NEXT:  While we're in Spain, come discover another treasured property, tucked away in the hills of Tarragona, southwest of Barcelona.  Mas La Boella is a small, distinguished property built around an olive plantation and  still working olive packaging plant. We admired beautifully integrated antiques, dined amid the trees and gardens and learned a lot about olive oil, as you will, too. Meanwhile, enjoy learn and live and visit us Fridays when we post for each weekend, a fresh slant on nature, the arts, family and travel.

Bruce William Keller and Christene Cosgriffe Meyers, with Yorkies Nick and Nora, put their beloved Montana on hold for this year, as they awaited a donor for his liver transplant.  "The call" came days ago and the surgery was successful. They might make Montana by fall.  SUCCESSFUL LIVER TRANSPLANT COMES AFTER 18-MONTH WAIT; JOURNEY OF RECOVERY BEGINS  Keller broke records at Scripps, leaving the ICU in a single day and the hospital in three days after intricate surgery. Transplant complete, long follow-up begins:  Keller and Cookie are still Scripps regulars. (This begins a two-part report on the journey to and through  liver transplantation. Please join us next week for the second segment, as our successful story unfolds.) STORY AND PHOTOS By CHRISTENE MEYERS A WEEK AGO , we savored our traditional Friday Date Night -- a drive along the coast, then appetizers at La Jolla Shores here in sunny southern California.  Sauvignon blanc for me; non-alcoholic beverage for Keller. We toasted and wished for the transplant: "May it be soon." We clinked glasses. A discreet kiss. Three top transplantation surgeons assisted in the surgery.  At left, a pleased  Dr. Randolph Schaffer follows up with Keller days after the operation.  It was a lovely date night -- we always dress up -- and we strolled the beach for sunset, then returned home for "Jeopardy." The ritual unfolded in normal fashion -- supper for the Yorkies, a walk for the four of us, chats with neighbors then "Hawaii Five-O." (Cookie watched the original Jack Lord 1970s classic with her beloved gran, and the newer version is part of the Friday rites.)  NICK AND NORA, Keller and Cookie were tucking in, yielding to the arms of Morpheus, when "The Call" came. Scripps Green Hospital is among the nation's finest.  Its staff of doctors represents the nation's finest medical schools, including Columbia, Baylor, Harvard, Duke, Johns Hopkins, University of California San Francisco, etc. A member of Scripps Green Hospital's crack transplant team advised that a potential donor had been found.   He promised to call again in an hour to set an arrival time, if the donor liver looked favorable. This first call was to alert us to stand by. Cookie and Keller travel internationally several times a year, here at the Pyramids in Egypt. That will resume! LONG-AGO, in college, he contracted the  Hepatitis C virus, perhaps during treatment for a sports injury. Although dormant for years, it had badly damaged Keller's liver. While miracle drug, Harvoni, leveled the virus, alas, the damage remained. We knew we were climbing up the liver transplant list at Scripps, where 19 months ago, we began the circuitous journey of tests, evaluations, scans, probes, blood work, MRIs, conferences and dozens of visits, all part of a meticulous plan toward eventually receiving transplantation and regaining a normal, healthy life. That he would have a competent, healthy care-giver was of prime importance. I, too, was vetted and passed my tests! Cookie and Keller love to dance and will soon be back.    IN LESS THAN  two hours from that first call, we were at Scripps -- admitted at midnight through a locked front door by a security officer who whisked us to the "prep room."    We knew we were not the only ones called.  More than a single potential recipient's family is alerted to be sure that a proper match is made and the generous gift not wasted.  All are "prepped" while the best match is determined.  Many factors play into the decision, including blood type and size. (A petite Asian woman, for instance, would not be a good match with a linebacker.)   Many recipients endure multiple preps -- four and five are not uncommon. One family was prepped 13 times.  Keller's last birthday was a cause for celebration in Vancouver. This next birthday may find us in Montana and he  plans to walk his only daughter, Kristen, down the aisle in September of 2018. Sunset over La Jolla Shores is a Friday tradition for Cookie and Keller.  This photo was taken the evening we got "the call." BY NOW it was 1 p.m. The prepping was done. We'd completed many forms. Labs were taken, medical directives filed. We met with surgeon Dr. Jonathan Fisher, and one of the pair of anesthesiologists. Both told us what to expect. We were prepared to rock and roll.  Once we'd wrapped our heads around the fact that we needed the transplant, we were ready. Without a transplant, liver disease patients usually don't live past five years. Date night became transplant night, as Cookie and Keller stepped into the unknown. "We should know by 2 p.m.," surgeon Michelle Ganyo assured us.  She rushed in an hour later, waving her cell phone, and hollered "It's a go." We were elated. A quick kiss -- not good-bye -- but "see you soon." Misty eyes. The surgical team was assembled. Keller was quickly dispatched to dreamland and the arms of Morpheus which eluded us six hours earlier. For Cookie, a lonely night in the waiting room began. NEXT UP :  The  passing this week of Cookie's favorite James Bond, Roger Moore, prompts a reminiscence of a whirlwind five-day trip to London in 1977 for the premiere of "The Spy Who Loved Me" in London's Roger Moore: remembered from a 1977 interview as witty, handsome, self-deprecating and utterly charming. Odeon Square.  The date was 7-7-77 and  Cookie was one of five film reviewers invited by United Artists' Cubby Broccoli to privately interview Moore. She was also among three dozen U.S. travel writers invited to receptions for Queen Elizabeth II's silver jubilee, during which she met the Queen Mum and Princess Anne (but not the Queen, although she had practiced her curtsy to perfection!) Remember to laugh, learn and live, and catch us weekends for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts and health. We'll update you on the transplant progress next time!

Editor's Note:   Three weeks ago, we described our journey up the transplant list at Scripps Center for Organ and Cell Transplantation, a world renowned facility luckily 10 minutes from our San Diego home.  We detailed the 19-month process leading to the midnight call that a donor had been found. Now -- four weeks from the May 13 surgery -- we continue the complex story of recovery with a look at the "ups and downs" and the caregiver's essential role. From left, writer Rick Cosgriffe, Cookie's brother, with Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers at a play. One of the important steps in recovery is returning to routine. SURFER VOWS TO CATCH A WAVE SOON, ENCOURAGES RESPECT FOR CAREGIVER   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WHAT WE LEARNED during the wait for a donor is too much for a single article. Friends have suggested a book, and through this blog, we've had an offer from a publisher! What we're learning during recovery is even more complicated. Cookie, Nick and Nora, at the beach.  Keller's and Cookie's routines include the ocean and theater, and exercise continues to be critical. Salient points include: * There will be moments of exhilaration and release, as well as moments of despair and frustration. All normal, textbook reactions to the trauma of transplant. * Moods will swing -- both of the recipient and the caregiver. Fatigue and exhaustion play into this; be kind to one another. * As our dear and brilliant hepatology doctor Catherine Frenette says, "There is no road map. Each case differs. Things will go off the track. * Achieving a balance between the anti-rejection drugs and the immune system is tricky. The drugs compromise the immune system. We had a broken tooth and other dental complications, so we have had to deal with infection and visits to two oral surgeons. We have more surgery next week -- and the transplant doctors and oral surgeons must collaborate on the right antibiotics and anesthesia. * Return as much as possible to "favorite things" and routines.  This includes for us, weekly plays and concerts and daily trips to the beach for exercise and rejuvenation. It's too soon for the surfer to return to his board, but in one more month, Keller's surgeons have given him thumbs up to return to his daily bicycle rides. Soon he can drive again.  FAMILY HAS meant everything to me, and having my siblings here has been a godsend. Reflexology treatments, acu-pressure and reiki healing were my sister Olivia's gifts to Keller. Brother Rick and Keller went running and biking. Sister Kelly Misha continues the massages and walking time with Keller.  Family also provides good humor, company and a spell-off for the caregiver. I am a patient, roll-with-the-punches kind of girl.  Through the illness and loss of two husbands and two sisters, parents, grandparents and dear friends, I've learned that life is a gift and each day precious.  I've also learned the insides of ICUs and operating theaters, and I've seen as many videos on surgery as some medical students. NOTHING, HOWEVER,  prepares  a person for the unexpected.  Who knew a tooth would break, and that the dental implants of two years ago would cause trouble.  But the tricky balance of anti-rejection drugs and immune system are carefully monitored and adjusted. A Father's Day party is planned next week, with longtime friend, Jesus Soriano, as a farewell to another longtime friend, Carlos Montero, who is returning to Ecuador.  Jambalaya, gumbo and curry were all cravings for Keller during his first month of recovery. Good thing Cookie knows how to cook! A return to "normal" life for the two included a media day invite to SeaWorld, and sea-inspired donuts to toast the 3-week mark. And as Dr. Frenette predicted, unexpected problems arise with each person; each transplant patient has his or her version of road bumps. Deal with it -- and we did and are. WE WERE  lucky because we were 19 months from diagnosis, to being officially listed,  to the transplant itself. Some people are on the list five years. We are forever grateful to the family who donated their loved one's organ. Through the continuing travail, these tips helped us. * Keep focused. Maintain priorities. Don't sweat the small stuff. Who cares if you don't get the dishwasher unloaded before you fall into bed exhausted. Even in our pre-transplant time,  we hired a housekeeper and she's a joy and a boon. We love our Yolanda. * Let people help you.  Chances are your folks will be eager to lend a hand.  Let them!  My family stepped up to the plate with generous gifts of time, talent and optimism.  Neighbors and friends have fed the Yorkies, walked them, looked in on the house, offered a meal or a trip to the grocery. Nick and Nora above La Jolla Shores. * Take time. The care giver's journey is a taxing one. I kept up my writing assignments and Jazzercise six days a week. It's essential to my mental health and my own well being. Cookie "suits up" for her beloved Jazzercise * Animal World. We love our Yorkies.  Nick and Nora are part of the healing.  Nicky sleeps with Keller during his naps and Nora stays close to Cookie. They're a comfort and a joy, an essential part of the healing. * Above all, keep it "normal" as possible. Roll with the punches -- and there have been a couple to the gut, including a nasty fall for "Nurse Kick-Ass," who reminds herself to slow down and stay in the moment. Nick, Nora and Keller mark one month out from the transplant, at Torrey Pines Beach. The massive incision is healing, the meds are balanced, and while doctoring is a huge part of our present world, we take time to be together at the beach, for exercise and at the theater. We continued our Friday date nights right up to  the call which came on a Friday. We missed only two weekends of play openings.  We're back on track with that and we've kept our senses of humor. Even when we our travel was shortened to 3-hours away from Scripps, we found new fun places to go nearby. As for "Patient Patient," he says, "My future's so bright, I have to wear shades!" NEXT UP : As we've stuck closer to home these past months, awaiting the transplant, we've rediscovered what we've known for years -- that California offers a world of engaging diversions. Outside our window, a family of kites have been hypnotizing us with the nesting.  Two fabulous productions have entertained us -- "Damn Yankees" by San Diego Musical Theatre at Spreckles, and "The Spitfire Grill" at NorthCoast Rep in Solana Beach. What a time for theater in our lives -- at the clinic, on the boards and out our window. We're remembering to explore, learn and live and hope you'll consider organ donation -- a gift which changed our life.