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Tagus Cruises offers an appealing variety of sailings off Lisbon's lovely shores. Here, new friends from three continents enjoy a morning sail around Lisbon's iconic monuments and bridges. SAIL AWAY YOUR TROUBLES & CARES ON CALMING PORTUGUESE WATERS STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The striking, monumental Padrão dos Descobrimentos -- Monument to the Discoveries-- stands 170 feet tall and is a major attraction by land or sea. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the marina ready to board Tagus Cruises for a "double header." IF YOU want a few hours away from it all, and love being on the water, you'll find no more relaxing outing than a sail with Tagus Cruises in Lisbon, Portugal. Tagus uses a variety of sailing vessels -- from graceful sailing yachts, to sailing and power catamarans. Your choice. There are also appealing  options for small and middle-sized groups looking for a peaceful time on the water with someone else in the "driver's seat."  We booked a sightseeing cruise, then were so happy we signed on for  a second cruise to enjoy the spectacular Lisbon sunset.   PRIVATE CHARTERS are also available, and booked regularly by locals.  We sailed on our first Tagus outing with a working couple from Lisbon, and a tourist couple from Australia.  The locals were celebrating a quiet day in their home town by taking a sail. Tagus Cruises is easy to find on the marina near Altis Hotel. Lisbon Tagus Cruises has a popular following among businesses, as well as the tourist trade, and with faithful locals who love being on the water and sharing their city's architecture, beautiful statues and bridges. OUR CAPTAIN  honored the Tagus promise to show off Lisbon's famous bridges and monuments.  First, he made certain we had a close-up view of Lisbon's Christ statue, patterned after the famous, larger Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. He spent a good 15 minutes giving us a splendid view of "Cristo Rei," one of the most iconic monuments in Lisbon. The statue of Christ stands high above the southern banks of the Tejo Estuary, which we also viewed.  It is teeming with protected bird life and ranks as the largest wetland in the country and one of the most important in Europe.  Our nature loving crew explained that it is also a sanctuary for fish, mollusks and crustaceans. WHILE GETTING  unique views of the bridges, beaches, even the industrial area, we learned a bit about Lisbon's colorful history. It is one of the oldest cities in western Europe. Like many other European cities, it has been home to many and varied peoples and has seen its share of war and conquest. After the region was settled by the Celts, it was founded by those well traveled Phoenicians around 1200 BC, making it 400 years older than Rome. Passing under Lisbon's beautiful bridges. These highly educated people established a settlement called Ulissipo, becoming successful merchants, traders and colonizers until they were conquered by the Greeks and Carthaginians.  As a thriving capital city of Portugal, today's Lisbon maintains its strategic geographical position at the mouth of the Tagus, the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula and the river from which the cruise company takes its name. Lisbon TAGUS CRUISES earns its reputation for excellence. Besides being well maintained, its boats are new, shiny and small enough that we never felt cramped or crowded.  We had the run of the vessels on two separate outings with spectacular, smooth, sight-filled experiences on the water.  Best part:  we actually sailed on both outings, a pleasure since the winds were just right and we motored only briefly. SAILING   HAS  become one of my favorite  hobbies, since my lifelong sailor partner introduced me to it 16 years ago. Here are some of the reasons we love to sail: Being on a boat slows down time and helps one ponder. On a sailboat, we truly feel we're "getting away from it all." Lisbon's sights are muted and lovely on a sunset cruise. Sailing also offers the opportunity to learn.  It's fun to watch the crew man -- "and woman" the ropes and sails. Just watching, I've learned much about the technical skill and expertise necessary to be a good sailor. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on a sunset cruise, framed by Lisbon architecture. As mentioned, we liked our morning sail so much that we booked a sunset sail for the next day.  Again, we tied it in with the excellent Lisbon City Card and convenient "hop on, hop off" bus connection.  A Tagus cruise also includes a beverage and the crew offered beer, iced tea or soft drinks. Don't forget: you'll want to tip the crew. A reasonable tip is 10 or 15 per cent of what you paid. Prices range from a reasonable 25 Euros for the one-hour tour on up to several hundred Euros for private  charters, if you're feeling flush or want to treat 15 or so of your favorite people. Remember the Lisbon city card will save you Euros, wear and tear and help with myriad museum admissions. We recommend the 3-day card. We can't wait to return to one of our favorite cities -- in a favorite part of a country we've come to know and love. More information on Lisbon, or to book: taguscruises.com   visitlisboa.com   Cookie eyes the camera with a still warm bag of freshly roasted peanuts from Lisbon's delightful market. Fresh fruit, vegetables, cheeses, meats and a large offering of Portugal's famous port wine are sold. UP NEXT: "Taste Porto." While we're in Portugal, we move north to Porto, where we sample local a tasty variety of local dishes -- including the country's famous cod.  We also take you shopping in a beautiful market and learn about Porto's rich history, architecture and culture. We play a piano in a centuries old restaurant, and buy a bag of freshly roasted peanuts. We'll even share a recipe for a delectable Portuguese sausage and bean stew.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the link

Enjoying their Segway's Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are Segway devotees, thanks to a terrific guide and a beautiful venue. CALM YET EXCITING: FUN IN FLORIDA AS COOKIE CONQUERS HER FEAR OF SEGWAY   STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Carpe Diem Kids Confident after her lesson, Cookie takes off, following guide Michael on Riverwalk. I'D BEEN on a Segway once --  22 years ago when they were first coming into vogue. It didn't go well. I was with a large group of travel writers and we didn't have a proper lesson. Midway through, I lost my balance and careened into a ditch. Fortunately it was a small ditch, and not deep. But both my body and my ego were bruised. So I took a break from the this unique two-wheeled mode of transportation, and didn't take the sport up again until recently. Segway fans show how easy it is to find balance, by proper foot placement. HAPPILY, I  had a wonderful, safe experience thanks to Michael, who taught me how to operate and ride my new friend with a thorough 20-minute lesson. He was patient and encouraging and I had an entirely different experience than that first adventure. Bruce Keller, a natural born athlete, was at ease from the get-go. But I needed Michael's assistance. Michael is a terrific guide, here patiently instructing a nervous Cookie. His tutoring gave me courage and calmed my frayed nerves. I can't wait to do it again. He made our Segway experience a treat, and soon I had graduated from the parking lot and back roads to the city's winding Riverwalk.  He guided us past glistening yachts, towering skyscrapers, opulent mansions, and celebrity homes in this gorgeous, well manicured corner of south Florida. Michael is a skilled and patient guide with knowledge of his home town, including the rainbow eucalyptus. THE KEY  to my success this second time around on a Segway was good coaching. Michael took time to make sure I understood how important it is to balance my feet properly. He gave careful instructions on starting, stopping and turning. Soon I was confident, no longer the cowardly lion of my first experience. ONE MAY  choose from several tours. We booked the yacht and mansion tour, which gave us close-up looks of some of the spectacular homes in Fort Lauderdale and a nature park. Other tours highlight the beach, comedy clubs, restaurants. One may also customize a private tour to highlight a specific fancy, perhaps food. Both one and two-hour tours are available, and small groups are welcome. Michael insists one does not need to have experience, balance, or coordination. He complimented cowardly me and I felt good on my machine. "Anyone with reasonable co-ordination can learn it in just minutes," he said. When we return, we'll look into Michael's eco/nature tours. He also offers vespa scooter tours lasting 2.5 miles. Fort Lauderdale's Riverwalk is lovely at dusk on a Segway. Fort Lauderdale's famed 17th Street Bridge forms a dramatic backdrop.  SINCE YOU'RE on wheels, you’re obviously going much faster than you would by walking. You are guaranteed to cover a greater amount of space in a shorter amount of time, thus the Segway rider is able to see more of the sights you've heard about, If you’re pressed for time, Michael and his fellow Segway tour guides will tailor a tour to the specific places you want to see so you can customize your tour in a shorter period of time.   Segway riders keep a safe distance from one another as they transit the pathways. We can't stress our guide's talents enough. He was simply terrific, and we're tour veterans -- on horses, camels and mules, in helicopters, kayaks and speed boats. Michael knew everyone in Fort Lauderdale, so we were greeted with waves and a friendly "Hi, how are you?" at every stop.  Fort Lauderdale's famed 17th Street Bridge opens to allow tall traffic to enter and exit. THERE ARE a couple stops, for brief rests and a little local lore. We learned about the city's beautiful rainbow eucalyptus trees, gleaned details about the fancy yachts and who owns them, and got permission for a photo shoot on the 17th Street Bridge because Michael knows the bridge operator. He enriched the two hours, making sure we saw the hotels, park and museum we wanted to revisit and photograph. He is a proud native of the city and his stories, history and anecdotes gave us information we'd never find in a guide book. We're Segway devotees -- and Michael fans!   www.segwayfortlauderdale.com    (Seven days a week, by reservation.)       COMING SOON:  We're having fun with bathrooms abroad.  We've photographed them for years and so we're taking a light hearted look at bathroom protocol while traveling abroad. Look for our tips on dealing with the perplexing protocol of "toilets on the road."  Then we commune with the unique art of Salvador Dali, visit Antoni Gaudi's spectacular Guell Park in Barcelona and tour New York City's prettiest places -- Central Park, the High Line and Museum of Modern Art.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, performance, travel, family, breaking news and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Our lively "Taste Porto food tour" guide, Ines, walks us through a colorful market, pointing out a bounty of fruits grown near the city, and offering bits of history, architecture and favorite dishes.  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Carpe Kiem Kids Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers explore the streets of Porto in a pleasant food and walking tour with top-ranked "Taste Porto." Porto Food Tour - GLORIOUS FOOD! TOUR INCLUDES TASTINGS, HISTORY, WALKING, SHOPPING, SIPPING A GOOD FOOD  tour includes small bites and tasty samples of the city's culinary offerings. It also stimulates conversation about local customs and culture, and answers foodie questions. Cookie purchases a bag of warm, freshly roasted peanuts at a market.  Food tours are a fun, tasty way to glean bits of history and color about the place you're visiting. You'll glean tips on where to dine and shop and your guide will recommend favorite hang-outs frequented by locals. He or she will even make you a reservation for dinner during your stay. OUR FOOD TOUR in Porto, Portugal, delved into the country's connection to its former colony, Brazil, and its use of fish, pork and beans -- staples in northern Portugal. We learned why Taste Porto is top-ranked by Lonely Planet guides, and has hosted both Rick Steves and the late Anthony Bourdain. The tastings were well chosen and the commentary was delivered by a smart, well informed, friendly guide. Portuguese pastries are many and varied. One is filled with savory minced veal, the other with  warm chocolate. We've tried a dozen food tours around the world -- from Tokyo to Victoria, Rio to Key West - and are sold on this enjoyable way to spend a few hours, visit historic areas and stop five or six times for refreshments. Food tours are less hectic than strictly walking tours. We often partake of these, too, because they provide a wonderful, two or three-hour immersion. But they can be exhausting if you're into a slower approach to touring.   Bruce Keller tucks into a Portuguese draft beer. FOOD TOURS  offer welcome breaks where you visit with fellow foodies, taste the country's offerings, use the facilities and revive for the next foray to a new cafe, market, bakery or bar.  Our Taste Porto tour began with pastels -- pastries -- at A Loja dos Pasteis de Chaves. We sampled both sweet and savory varieties of this favorite flaky treat. On to Bolhao Wine House, in a colorful market, for samples of fish and vinho verde branco -- the country's delicious dry white wine. Portugal is famous for its delectable stews and dried, salted cod -- bacalhau -- as well as smoked ham and tender, slow-cooked pork, which we sampled in a small sandwich, in Flor dos Congregados. TASTE PORTO promises its participants feel like they're taking a walking-talking-tasting tour with a local friend. We agree.  Our lively, well informed guide even found a piano for me to play in one of the city's oldest eateries, while guiding us through her artfully designed tour. Cookie entertains at Flor dos Congregados:  roasted pork, ham, sparkling red wine and piano . She shared history, architecture, culture, and cuisine with our group of 10 from Paris, Belfast, San Francisco, Munich, Idaho and Montana. Ines also  kindly made a reservation for us at a fado club the next night. We really "tasted" Porto, capping the tour with cod fritters and "naughty rice," espresso and chocolate. The pauses were nicely choreographed as Ines pointed out monuments, parks and historic buildings. For food and wine aficionados, we recommend Taste Porto for its mini master class of classic Portuguese food and drink. Its three kilometers of history, culture and food filled stops. Portuguese bean and meat stew is served in many variations. Cooks can add meats and veggies, but pork, sausage, beans and carrots are a must.  Here's a tasty recipe for  Portuguese Bean Stew This traditional, hearty stew of red beans with pork and sausage is popular in both Portugal and its largest former colony, Brazil. In rural areas, the meat is slow-cooked pig’s feet and pig’s ears. A Porto friend adapted this recipe in his home in the mountainous region in Northeastern Portugal where the Douro flows in from Spain. Ingredients: 2 to 4 garlic cloves, 2 medium sweet onions, 2 tbsp olive oil, a pound of boneless pork shoulder or butt cut into one-inch cubes, 2 carrots cut into thick "coins," one large sausage, sliced into thick rounds. (Chouriço and linguiça sausages make an authentic version, but smoked sausage or Polish sausage are fine.) 4 oz bacon, cut or torn into shreds,2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped, or one One14-ounce can chopped tomatoes, 1/2 cup red wine, water, as needed salt and pepper, to taste  1/2 lb cabbage, chopped   1 - 14.5-oz can kidney or red beans Peel and mince  garlic cloves and onion, and cook over medium-high heat in olive oil in deep iron skillet or Dutch oven until they brown. Add cubed pork. stir, brown. Add carrot, sausage rounds and shredded bacon. Cook until bacon begins to brown and render its fat. Mix in chopped tomatoes, pour in red wine, stirring to blend. Increase heat. When stew is bubbling again, add enough water to cover. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Lower heat. Cook 10 more minutes. Stir in chopped cabbage, cover pot, cook another 15 minutes. Add red beans, bring back to a boil; cook to heat through and blend flavors. Check seasoning. Serve with crusty bread or rice and favorite wine. Cod fritters with "naughty rice" (tomato rice) at Popina, where boiled eggs and red onion complement the flavors. Porto's winding streets and classic buildings are described in the fun food tour stroll. www.tasteporto.com www.portocvb.com   www.citypasses.eu/en/citytrip-porto/porto-card/ Porto's Arrabida Bridge Climb is world famous and we did it! UP NEXT: We're climbing another bridge.  Only five bridges in the world allow climbing and we'll ascend the fifth soon, in Brisbane, Australia.  Now, though, we climb our fourth bridge, in Porto, Portugal. The Porto Bridge Climb on the beautiful Ponte da Arrabida is a challenging  adventure for the two of us sightseers and amateur bridge climbers. On the trail of exploration, we climb in a small group to view Porto's historic sights from on high. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com Please share the links.

Entrepreneur Pedro Ribeiro, right, gives Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers a private tour of his unique art museum, a converted manor house and hunting lodge in Portugal. ART MUSEUM, PARK, LIBRARY, CAFE, WITH FILM, PHOTOS,PAINTINGS, SCULPTURE, COLLAGE, MEDIA ENTICEMENTS  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Plants enhance Casa Sao Roque Centro de Arte, inspired by French and Belgian architecture with a nod to Porto decorative arts. Porto's Casa Sao Roque offers BOLD SPIRITS  and colorful personalities of both past and present greet visitors at Casa Sao Roque Centro de Arte. The long gone owners of the splendid home in Porto, Portugal, left their mark. But the man who salvaged and renovated the building as it slid into neglect is the primary influence on the elegant home that greets the contemporary visitor. Art connoisseur Pedro Alvares Ribeiro fell in love with the one-time hunting lodge, built in 1759 by a wealthy Porto merchant. A former banker turned art collector and philanthropist, Ribeiro had a vision of what the home could become. "Besides, I wanted to give something back," he said. "I've had a lucky life." A SUCCESSFUL  banking career augmented an inheritance from his entrepreneurial professor father and a wealthy grandfather who  presided over a flourishing port wine company.  This good fortune helped Ribeiro purchase the home and lovingly restore it. "I have done well and been fortunate in life," he reflects, "so I had in mind a place to share beauty with others from around the world, a museum if you will, but with excitement -- with components to engage the senses."   Besides booking impressive international changing exhibitions, he integrated items from his private art collection. "For years, I've collected pieces. When I first saw the place, I envisioned them fitting perfectly here." And so they do -- including 16th Century African chairs, eye-catching ceramics and paintings from his private archives.  Ribeiro talks about his restoration project in the building's beautiful glass winter garden. The Warhol show includes the artist's creations as well as personal film, and other significant material from his art career. THE HOME has a stately feel, with beautifully crafted windows and elegant detail at every turn. Viewers admire elaborate metal work, polished wooden finishes and new stucco with an "old" look to perfectly match the original. Said my engineer-contractor-photographer partner, Bruce Keller,  "It's a show piece for meticulous detail. Every room is unique." Every detail in the house is exquisitely designed. The elegance of the home has survived. Here the former  dining room, now exhibition space, is painstakingly restored .   In 1759 when the home was constructed, it was on the outskirts of Porto, a charming northern Portuguese town which vies with larger Lisbon for tourism.  A four-acre park where gentry once hunted now attracts families. Porto's Casa Sao Roque was also Casa Ramos Pinto, and before that, was part of Quinta da Lameira, where the lord of the manor hunted. "It was typical of those owned by bourgeoisie and noble families from Porto," says Ribeira, explaining its various incarnations. Several more wealthy, noble names inhabited the place. In the 19th Century, it belonged to the family of Maria Virginia de Castro. In 1888, she married António Ramos Pinto, a well-known exporter of Portugal's famous port wine. They put their two fortunes together to improve the mansion, commissioning an intricate remodeling and expansion project supervised by distinguished architect José Marques da Silva. It took 11 years -- between 1900 and 1911 -- and included design of an elaborate garden, under the watchful eye of another well known figure, Jacinto de Matos. Immaculately restored and polished banister. That remains today, with carefully groomed camellia trees now over a century old. They are prized and cared for by Ribeiro and his staff. RIBEIRO IMAGINES  life of the gentry in the day -- a small group of friends gathered at the manor house for dinner and a glass of port, to discuss art and politics, gaze at the rich valley below, watch wildlife and enjoy conversation as a pleasant breeze refreshed them.  Perhaps they'd stroll the gardens, admiring the camellias, stooping to inhale the scent of herbs in the vegetable gardens, harvested by servants for meal preparation. Now, fast forward to 2023. Art lovers from around the world come to see the fruits of Ribeiro renovation.  He's traveled the world to connect with fellow art aficionados, gallery owners and museum directors. As president and CEO of Casa Sao Roque, he books exhibitions to complement the building's unique architecture, art and history. On view now through Jan. 31 is an exhibit by Andy Warhol, famed American visual artist, film director, and producer. Americans know him as a leading figure in the visual art movement known as pop art.  "Warhol, People and Things" is reason enough to visit the Casa, with an affordable admission under $10. The extensive exhibition focuses on Warhol and his influence across several generations of photographers, filmmakers, musicians and multi-media artists. We watched fascinating films with Ribeiro -- and admired  works by Warhol, close friends and other contemporary artists from New York, Porto and Lisbon. The collaboration reached across the Atlantic to New York's Mishkin Gallery and Baruch College of the City University of New York. Ribeiro uses his international art connections to the museum's advantage. Also on view is the inaugural exhibition of one of his favorite artists.  Ana Jotta's "Inventoria," is chapter one in a series of exhibitions devoted to the notion of Casa Sao Roque. A well stocked art library and pleasant cafe attract visitors for refreshment and reflection after they've toured the museum. The extensive Warhol exhibition borrowed from New York City galleries and museums. After a tour of La Casa Sao Roque, a Porto family enjoys beverages and dessert in a charming cafe and art book library. THE CASA alone is worth a trip to the exciting city of Porto. You'll find endless opportunities, diversions, and amusements in this northern Portuguese town which has been quietly garnering attention and attracting visitors from the southern Portuguese city of Lisbon. More info on the museum or to plan a trip to Porto: www.casasroque.art/pt/inicio/ www.portocvb.com www.visitporto.com www.portocard.city/en/   UP NEXT: Sailing the waters off the coast of Lisbon is an exciting way to spend a few hours.  In a city famous for its bridges, Tagus Cruises offers unique sailing tours designed to show off the city's historic sights and famous bridges.  We take you under the bridges and across the waters to the statue of Christ the Redeemer, and the historic Belem Tower. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family and more, at: www.whereiscookie.com  Please share the link.

Buenos Aires is known for its savory red wine, sultry tango halls and succulent steaks, and we found them all with a spirited local. He took us to hidden gems throughout the capital of Argentina, including a visit to El Mirasol (sunflower or sun watcher). This famed steakhouse is a favorite with locals and a delight for tourists who have the advantage of a native son's expertise to tour the city.  Keller, left, and our friend and exemplary guide, Rolando, right, pose with statues of famed writers Borges and Bioy at La Biela, a famed Buenos Aires eatery. SEEING BUENOS AIRES WITH A LOCAL BEATS ANY OTHER TOUR FOR COLOR, CHARM, SHEER FUN, INFORMATION GET A BUENOS AIRES TOURIST PASS FOR SAVINGS ON ATTRACTIONS In early morning, cafe tables await customers who will fill them by late morning. People watching and lingering over a coffee are favorite rituals in Buenos Aires. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A GUIDED TOUR  of any city is best when arranged by a local. We were lucky in Buenos Aires, to get beyond the best known spots and into the real heart of the city. So we had the good fortune of enjoying the expertise and guidance of financial wizard and Buenos Aires native son Rolando on our recent tour of this fascinating city. Sure, we also sampled succulent steakhouses, savory red wine and sultry tango halls. But we welcomed the opportunity to tour with Rolando, reveling in his knowledge, insights and anecdotes of lesser known haunts. When we weren't with him, we used the Buenos Aires Tourist Pass to save on 10 activities and attractions. City cards offer many advantages. ROLANDO'S PASSION  for his native city is unmatched by that of any guide we've encountered.   Keller, Cookie and Rolando at Colon, the city's beautiful and famous opera house. He is a man of fine taste.  He is a gourmand, coffee aficionado, opera buff, lover of palaces and warm pastry, fan of chocolate and crema de leche. And, perhaps a minor inconsistency, Coca Cola. He is devoted to literature and architecture, and enhanced our time with charming stories of artists, builders, poets and writers who share his love of one of the world's great cities.    La Confiteria Ideal is famous for its beautifully presented pastries, elegant coffees and teas. The two-story building has hosted presidents, celebrities and is a favorite stop.  BUENOS AIRES is known for its remarkable architecture, wonderful parks, top quality restaurants, and world renowned museums and concert halls, including one place you can’t miss: the Colón Theater, the city’s fantastic Opera House. We toured it thanks to Rolando, who booked us for a fascinating afternoon there.  (We wrote about this grand concert hall separately.) Step inside a world class opera house At La Biela, writers Borges and Bioy greet people from the table where they sat to discuss their writing projects. The sculptures immortalize  the famed collaborators at their favorite table. ROLANDO IS comfortable in jeans and a t-shirt, but he dresses up for world conferences and spent much of his career in suits. He served as the Assistant Director at the International Monetary Fund from 2003-2009 and still consults with high-level officials, in demand as a financial consultant. In world capitals he shares his extensive experience in public policy, research and publication, and discovers eateries and museums to integrate into his impressive "visitor's vocabulary."  Our local guide Rolando took us to charming little places down alleys and corridors, where people sit and enjoy. OUR FRIEND'S  private life is more casual, whether in his Washington, D.C. apartment, or his Buenos Aires apartment.  In D.C., he might take a break from a Zoom video meeting to share a coffee with his neighbor, my longtime friend and colleague, writer Cathy Healy. In Buenos Aires, he took time off from meetings to tour us through the heart of the city he loves. His Recoleta neighborhood is pleasant walking distance or a short taxi ride to most of the city's grandest sights and historical buildings, including a cemetery where  Evita lies in a heavily fortified crypt  five meters underground, to protect her remains. The cemetery is worth a visit for its grandiose array of peculiarities.  Rolando grew up in Buenos Aires, with his European parents who fled Poland before Rolando was born. They brought their distinguished tastes in art, music and culinary finery to their new home in South America. ROLANDO, naturally, grew up with refinement, surrounded by opera, art and fine food.  He knows all the city's historic concert venues and cafés, which are part of the soul of Argentina's capital and deeply imbedded in Rolando's soul as well.  The eateries were and are still frequented by artistic bohemians and celebrated writers. Some of Rolando's favorites are mentioned in guidebooks.     Known for its prosciutto, pasta and desserts is La Parolaccia, where we went for an elegantly served early dinner with Rolando. WE DELIGHTED in discovering Confiteria La Ideal, an historic landmark and one of Rolando's favorite places.  It houses a dramatic stage area with a vintage piano, an old-fashioned elevator, and elegant tables where sumptuous desserts, cocktails and specialty items are served. The French Fleur de Lys is the enigmatic emblem of Confiteria Ideal. This classic 1912 French- inspired building was closed six years to restore its elegant original beauty.  It once was a favorite of tango dancers, too. This city  claims to have invented the sultry dance known for its rhythmic  accompaniment and tricky, sensuous footwork. THEN ON TO LA BIELA, the oldest restaurant in town. Opened in 1848, it has witnessed the transformation of Rolando's beloved Recoleta neighborhood.  Famed personalities Adolfo Bioy Casares and Jorge Luis Borges met often here in the northern part of the city, by the Rio de la Plata.  The area was transformed from fertile farmland to upscale eateries, shops and that famed aforementioned cemetery where  Peron and other notables are buried. We hobnobbed with locals who, like writers Borges and Bioy, frequent the cafe to discuss art, literary endeavors and politics. The two famous writers are immortalized in sculpture at the table where they always sat. It remains now and forever "their" table. Woman's Bridge behind Keller, Cookie and Rolando, capping an evening in Buenos Aires with a stroll on the waterfront.  Elegant service is a tradition at La Parolaccia, where the city's best prosciutto is served. AFTER A HECTIC  day with our enthusiastic local guide and with an early flight the next morning, we arrived   early to dine at La Parolaccia. We were practically alone at 7:30 p.m. because most Argentines don't enjoy their evening meal until 9 p.m., 10 p.m., or even 11 p.m. We had fabulous service at this traditional Italian restaurant where Rolando and his late parents often dined, savoring the prosciutto which is said to be the best in town. We capped the evening with a stroll to the Puente de la Mujer -- "Woman's Bridge"-- a rotating footbridge for a busy dock in the city's Puerto Madero commercial district, a pleasant stroll from our hotel.  Thank you, Rolando, for enhancing our visit beyond measure. If you ever forfeit your day job, a tour guide spot awaits you. And besides the money and time saving city pass, called "Civitatis" in B.A., we recommend United Airlines for a variety of connections to Buenos Aires. We flew from San Diego to B.A. at noon with a pleasant layover in Houston, just enough time to grab a meal, catch up on correspondence and get to the international gate.  We'd arrived just after 9 a.m., and arranged early check-in at our hotel. A nap and off for adventures. Perfect. More info: Buenos Aires CityPASS: civitatis.com united.com tripadvisor.com laparollacia.com laideal.ar teatrocolon.org.ar/guided-tours/     Poipu's beautiful green turtles, or "hono" are protected, and a heavy fine understandably awaits for touching them. UP NEXT: Turtles of Poipu greet us. These graceful sea turtles, or “honu” to the locals, top most travelers’ wish lists of wildlife to see in Kauai. Long considered symbols of good luck, the creatures’ kind faces and trudging gait are endearing. We watched them swim for a week, marveling at their will and endurance. The odds for a Poipu turtle to reach adulthood are slim. A newly hatched sea turtle is popular with predators as it makes its way slowly from its sandy nest to the sea. Then if they make it, hatchlings are a favorite snack of bigger creatures, and only one in 1,000 eggs survive to adulthood. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on the arts, travel, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com and please share the link.

Gentoo penguins are recognized by their bright orange feet and their reddish beaks. They are a bit over three feet tall when mature and lay a single egg. After it hatches, parents take turns keeping their young chick warm in the folds above their feet. It's an ingenious, generations old technique that mostly works.  PENGUINS OF ANTARCTICA DELIGHT  VISITORS WITH ANTICS, SURVIVAL INSTINCT, REARING OF THEIR YOUNG   Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller tour at Bluff Cove in the Falklands (Las Malvinas), surrounded by dozens of busy Gentoo Penguins. They arrived by cruise ship on a two-week Antarctic tour. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" I LOVE penguins. Since childhood, I've yearned to commune with these beautiful creatures. My dream to view penguins on an Antarctica cruise from Buenos Aires has twice come true. The dream trumped a nightmare. Years ago, near Three Forks, Montana, my parents paid 50 cents a head for our family to step inside a large trailer and view two forlorn penguins on a block of ice. I was shocked and saddened to see them looking listless and lost. King penguins are distinguished by their bright orange markings. Here they are communicating with one another. Each has a unique sound and pitch so parents and young can find one another in crowds. They sat stoically on the ice and I envisioned them free, doing what penguins do. This wouldn't happen now -- it shouldn't have happened then. But it propelled me into a lifetime of animal advocacy, love and respect. It encouraged me to travel thousands of miles -- twice -- to view penguins in their native habitat of the vast Antarctic and blot out the nightmare. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers by their Celebrity ship enroute to view penguins. Our Antarctica cruise from Buenos Aires didn't disappoint. We saw hundreds of charming, resilient and adorable penguins.  They made us laugh as they moved, and their young are captivatingly cute.  We chose a Celebrity cruise out of Buenos Aires to travel south to the Antarctic. Delta flights direct from Bozeman to Atlanta, then on to Buenos Aires. We arrived a week early to tour Buenos Aires for a week before our two-week cruise. The purpose was to see wildlife, primarily penguins, the top of my "favorite wildlife" list.  Of the 18 species on the planet, 11 are threatened, so we wanted to see them again while we're still agile enough to make the 6,452 mile trip from Bozeman -- 8,600 miles from our other base in San Diego.   A drawing on our Bluff Cove guide's jacket illustrates the importance of penguins to tourism. WE CHOSE Celebrity and its beautiful Celebrity Eclipse .  We love the ship and it went where we wanted to explore, with a detailed focus on wildlife viewing. The largest colony of Magellanic penguins is found on Punta Tombo, where this pair seems content and healthy and did not shy away from our cameras. Our Antarctic penguin cruise route allowed us to spend several days watching three main species, although we saw others. Today's feature focuses on the King, Gentoo and Magellanic penguins -- the latter named after Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. He, too, was captivated by penguins during his five expeditions to South America in 1519, which opened trade routes across the oceans to the East Indies. The journey by tender from Celebrity's Eclipse takes passengers deep into the Antarctic to view penguins. Getting to them involves a long journey to the southern hemisphere, in our case to Buenos Aires, then boarding tenders or zodiacs to search for the various species of penguin colonies. There are 8 species of penguins in Antarctica and the surrounding region: Emperor, Adélie, Gentoo, Rockhopper, Macaroni, Magellanic, Chinstrap and King. All are devoted to their young, and mostly monogamous, at least during pregnancy and until the youngster is able to fend for himself. "Then it's up to them," our guide said.  PENGUINS ARE amazing animals. Their characteristics have long fascinated that brotherhood of animal lovers around the world. They go incredible distances to find food for their young, sharing responsibility for maturing each precious egg.  "Keller and Cookie" enjoy communion with the Magellanic penguins of the Falklands. The Emperor penguin marches - some say "waddles" - 75 miles one way to find food for his or her baby. In all the species we viewed, both parents participate in the care of the egg and feeding of the chick once hatched. Among other fascinating evolutionary traits, their stomachs have adapted to allow them to drink saltwater. Each species is unique in its appearance and habits. THE FIRST  ones we met were the Gentoo penguins. With flamboyant red-orange beaks, white-feather caps, and peach-colored feet, Gentoos stand out against their drab, rock-strewn Antarctic habitat. Our Antarctic itinerary on a recent Penguin expedition with Celebrity Cruises At Bluff Cove, they share the space with King penguins, the second largest species of penguin, slightly smaller, but similar in appearance to the Emperor penguin. We found these guys and gals irresistible with their shiny black heads, chins, and throats.  A distinctive mark is the vivid orange, tear-shaped patches on each side of the head. This striking tangerine hued coloration extends to the upper chest.  Most of them came up to my shoulder -- about 38 inches. The young are furry, and develop the waterproof skin as they get closer to their diving and swimming debut with the water.  What is magical about being with penguins is the rapport with these splendid creatures. As Keller said, "Viewing them in a majestic place, we feel the remote locale and the unique experience of communion."  The tranquility and order -- with everything in place as nature takes its course -- lingers in our hearts, minds and memories. And often in my dreams. A mother King penguin tends to her plump little chick. The parents lose up to half of their body weight during the first crucial year of feeding their young . More information: celebritycruises.com worldwildlife.org Delta Air Lines has a great direct flight to Buenos Aires from Atlanta. We base in Montana part of the year. We were thrilled to take Delta's direct flight to Atlanta from Bozeman. Nice connection. Saves time by avoiding the extra stop from Billings to Salt Lake or Minneapolis.  www.delta.com   From a distance, these resemble penguins, but they are cormorants, great divers, near the town of Ushuaia. UP NEXT:  While we're way south of Buenos Aires, we take readers on our foray to Ushuaia, where we continue our wildlife explorations. Ushuaia is a pretty resort town in Argentina, where residents crave the sun which visits only occasionally. It's located on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, the southernmost tip of South America, nicknamed the “End of the World.” The windswept and tidy town, perched on a steep hill, is surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to Antarctica, where we took a day-long boat trip from our cruise ship. The nearby Isla Yécapasela is known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies and stunning cormorants.   Join us, remembering to explore, learn and live. Soon, we'll visit stately Colonia in Uruguay, the magnificent opera house, Colon, in Buenos Aires, and the turtles of Poipu on the island of Kauai.

Above, Bruce Keller, Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Rolando Ossowski pose in casual afternoon touring clothes. If they were at the great theater for a night at the opera, they would be in black tie, befitting a world class opera house. Teatro Colón: grand reminder of city's stately, opulent past BUENOS AIRES OPERA HOUSE: SHINING STAR WITH GRANDEUR, HISTORY AS WORLD'S BEST  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IT'S HOSTED  the greats of the world of opera. Its acoustics are the best on the planet. The majestic Teatro Colon holds a sentimental place in the hearts of the people of Buenos Aires, and opera buffs around the world. The Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires has breathtaking design, box seats, a horseshoe shaped house and special seats. THE IMPOSING Teatro Colon ( Buenos Aires Opera House) in Argentina's capital city, is considered by many to be the world's grandest opera house not only for its fabulous acoustics but for the spectacle and grandeur of its interior. A guide offers visitors a unique small-group tour of the opera house, with its stunning works of art, all beautifully preserved. We toured this wondrous place with our friend, Rolando Ossowski, an opera devotee who grew up in Buenos Aires and attended performances. He arranged a rewarding visit to magnificent place, adding colorful detail to the guide's commentary as we learned of the theater's interesting and complicated history. It dates back more than a century, to a grander time. Entering this grandiose space, we were in awe of its European-style décor. Our guide walked us up the Italian-marble staircases, past stunning mosaics, beneath French stained glass and under a gleaming grand chandelier where we posed for photos. The theater's roster of performers features dozens of world-class artists, including Richard Strauss, Igor Stravinsky, Plácido Domingo, Enrico Caruso, Claudia Muzio, Maria Callas, Regine Crespin, Birgit Nilsson and the great tenor Luciano Pavarotti. THE ORIGINAL  Teatro Colón operated from 1857 to1888 before being demolished as the city outgrew it. The new theater was designed by Francesco Tamburini with plans for a gala opening in 1892. But misfortune and controversy plagued the project. Tamburini died.  So did the next architect. Rolando added that tastes changed and money ran out. Eventually, the present theater opened on May 25, 1908, with Giuseppe Verdi's "Aïda." It was closed for restoration in 2006, reopening in 2010 to celebrate its 102nd birthday and Argentina's bicentennial. Our small tour group was in awe during a delightful tour of one of the world's most famous and grandest opera houses.  Meticulous detail at every turn awaits our tour group WE WERE  determined to include the opera house in our Buenos Aires visit, even though there is an enormous amount of other things to do and places to visit.  For us -- lifelong music fans -- our time in Argentina’s capital city wouldn't have been complete without the afternoon we spent with Rolando in this historic building. Stained glass is imported from Europe and spectacular details surround you in the Bueno Aires opera house Our opera buff friend Rolando concurred with the guide that the theater does indeed have the world's best acoustics. Pavarotti, a perennial favorite here, joked that "the theatre has the greatest defect: its acoustics are perfect," meaning that any small mistake -- a delayed delivery, faux pas with a lyric or,  heaven forbid, a worse mistake -- would be heard by the audience and likely reported by critics. IN OUR SMALL group, a professional singer surprised and delighted us all, offering a few measures of a familiar aria. Instant applause and tears. Indeed, grand acoustics. But the building's artistic value is of equal importance. Guided tours are kept small to give tourists an opportunity to enjoy, ask questions and soak up the beauty. Among details we noted at the Buenos Aires opera house *The central chandelier weighs over 100 kilos.  *Every piece of material for the theater's construction was imported from Europe. * The auditorium is horseshoe-shaped, has 2,487 seats (slightly more than the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, London). It's shape makes for fabulous sound. * Ticket prices offer "something for everyone," from standing room admission sold from $6 to $70 and more for better seats. * The stage is 20 meters wide, 15 meters high and 20 meters deep. * The combination of its perfectly engineered curves, and specially selected interiors create the remarkable acoustics.  Magnificently positioned on an entire city block, Teatro Colon is an imposing city landmark. Of special note are the horse-hair seat cushions, which are said to enhance sound as well. (Who knew?) More info : Guided tours in English cost 10,000 Argentine pesos (about $15)  daily at 11 a.m., noon and 3 p.m. Colón Theater is open every day of the year, except select holidays. Visit from February through December to catch one of the theater's spectacular ballets or operas. www.teatrocolon.org.ar/guided-tours/ UP NEXT : As summer comes to the Coachella Valley, savvy tourists and locals alike take a trip up the mountain to the Palm Springs Aerial  Tramway. It is the largest rotating aerial tramway in the world and a huge tourist attraction in California. The tram and its construction in rugged terrain are an engineering marvel.  It opened in September 1963 as a way of getting from the floor of the Coachella Valley to near the top of San Jacinto Peak and was constructed in the Chino Canyon wilderness, a refuge for birds and wildlife and popular with naturalists. The world's largest rotating tram gives tourists and locals alike a bird's eye view of the spectacular wilderness of Chino Canyon and below, Palm Springs Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on nature, travel, performance, family and more. Please share the link:  www.whereiscookie.com

Commodore Everette Hoard welcomes the public aboard the Queen Mary this Friday for an 80th birthday party. HAIL AND LONG LIVE THE LOVELY QUEEN MARY Guests still check in as they did decades ago, in a glamorous lobby. Aboard the Queen Mary, a sea gull may be attending Friday's party!  HISTORIC OCEAN LINER HAS PROUD HISTORY, IMPRESSIVE ROSTER OF LINER-LOVING CELEBRITIES                                                                                               STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER ONE OF  the world's great ocean liners is having a big birthday. And we're all invited. Some anniversary celebrants will don period togs to salute Queen Mary's 80th! As the Queen Mary turns 80 Friday, I remember a long ago voyage with now departed loved ones. A view from the cabin enjoyed during a recent visit by our writers.  And I'm thinking of the thousands of celebrities, soldiers, immigrants and ocean lovers she carried across the seas.  Ah, the movie stars and diplomats who wined and dined in her hallowed halls and banquet rooms! DURING  Friday's party, Commodore Everette Hoard will read Royal Letters, including one from Queen Elizabeth II. Then he'll officiate at the ceremonial cutting of the Queen Mary's 80th Anniversary Cake, a quarter-ton replica of the venerable ship. Cake   all around! TV celebrity baker, Jose Barajas created the spectacular cake which is 15 feet long. Queen Mary christened the Queen Mary in 1934. We had the good fortune not long ago to spend several days on her, in Long Beach, California, where she's been a hotel since her 1967 retirement. How I'd love to be there Friday. But I'll savor memories of stepping three times on her, including once long ago, when she still sailed the oceans blue. THE QUEEN  Mary was christened by Queen Mary, on Sept. 26, 1934 at the John Brown Shipyard in Clydebank, Scotland.  With her was King George V, but it was the Queen who, by tradition, launched the magnificent ship. Champagne flowed as it will on her 80th, marching bands saluted and plenty of hoopla carried on into the night, before a crowd of more than 200,000.   She soon became the transatlantic crossing vessel of choice for dignitaries, celebrities and thousands of immigrants. Winston Churchill and his wife Clementine loved the Queen Mary and often sailed on her.  The restaurant's signature upscale restaurant is a popular celebration venue for Long Beach residents and worldwide visitors. I've had the good fortune to play Sir Winston's beautiful piano and mingle with the locals who dress up in vintage costumes to remember and briefly capture a bygone era. Other celebs who regularly crossed on her: Bob Hope, Fred Astaire and the Windsors.  Audrey Hepburn had her honeymoon aboard the liner.  The Queen Mary will light up for a day long public celebration Friday. QUEEN MARY --  born during the Great Depression -- grew into the biggest, fastest and most popular ocean liner in the world. She is constructed with 10 million rivets and was innovative at the time, with a waterline length of 1,004 feet (longer than the Eiffel Tower is tall!)  During World War II, she was painted grey and served as the Allies’ largest and fastest troop carrier. Later, she resumed her place as a world-class ocean liner completing 1,100-plus transatlantic voyages before retiring to Long Beach in 1967. AS THE  beloved ocean liner turns 80 on Friday, the public is invited to join a ship-wide celebration. The Queen opens her gangways and ballrooms, decks and salons, attractions and eateries to a daylong celebration. Admission is free for the party, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., along with discounted parking. Free admission and discounts on board will mark Friday's Queen Mary party. ship tours and attractions. All are welcome, especially Long Beach residents and families. Commemorations will include the reading of letters by King George V at the ship's launch on Sept. 26, 1934, and a congratulatory message from the current top royal, Queen Elizabeth II. The anniversary will feature a surprise announcement, described by ship officials as "a forward-looking plan inspired by the ship's eight-decades of public life and influence on maritime commerce."  It's top secret -- could be a major renovation, or who knows?  But the Queen promises to be around for a good long while.  Long live my favorite Queen! The Tetons in autumn  are a sight to behold -- we bring them to you soon! COMING SOON:  Livingston, Montana's Murray Hotel has hosted celebrities and rock singers,  movie stars, politicians and even a Scandinavian Queen.  What makes this 1904 hotel so appealing 110 years after it was built? And a look at Jackson, Wyo., and the Tetons, for a bonanza of autumn scenery, plus a dinner theater to tip your hat to, the Jackson Hole Playhouse! We strive for a sense of fun and play in these Wednesday and weekend posts. Explore, learn and live and tell your friends about www.whereiscookie.com

CRUISE JUNKIES OFFER WAYS TO NARROW THE FIELD FOR THE FIRST-TIME OR INFREQUENT CRUISER Bird's eye view for cruisers:  A circle of yachts, large cruise ships and pleasure boats at St. Thomas, Virgin Islands. Crystal's Serenity remains our  favorite of 102 cruises on many lines. STORY BY CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER I'VE NEVER MET  a cruise ship I didn't like. But there's a world of difference between the small, intimate vessels and the huge "city on water" mega-ships of the past years. We've had a half-dozen requests recently from first-time and novice cruisers wanting help in narrowing the field. This cave above Toulon, France, offered a gorgeous view for a small group. We hope these hints do the trick. YOUR OWN  personality and preferences will play into your decision -- large or small, glitzy or low-key, dozens of activities or an atmosphere of "amuse yourself." First, consider the ship size and number of passengers it carries. These are useful barometers. Large ships are often called "floating resorts" or "hotels on water."  If there are 2,500 or more people, expect plenty of activity and lots of hustle and bustle. If you're traveling with only a few hundred others, the environment will be quieter and usually more intellectual. But we've met plenty of smart people on large vessels, too. On a large ship, you can be anonymous and keep a low profile, seldom seeing the same people twice. Ships pause in southern Spain before navigating the Straits of Gibraltar. Small ships foster a more casual feeling.  Conversations, quiet games and making new friends are evening activities, rather than the lavish floor shows, a night in the casino or bar hopping. You might be dancing to a jazz trio instead of a 20-piece orchestra. Your choice! Many small ships are modest.  Other small ships pride themselves on lavishness and upscale service. PLUSES  of a large ship: *Mega-ships have lavish nightly entertainment and revues, many bars and restaurants, fully equipped fitness centers with personal trainers, many machines and TVs. The beauty of harbors and the sea can be enjoyed on ships large and small. *Large ships may offer a selection of in-room TV options, including movies, announcements, tour previews, even CD players plus a mix of music stations. *You'll find a large cinema on most big ships, with first-run and recent films each day. *Seminars, lectures, classes, dance lessons, bingo and other games are offered on large ships. You'll never be at a loss for an activity. If you're single or enjoy socializing, you'll be able to participate in theme parties and masquerades and socials inviting other like minded folk.  *If you fear boredom, a large ship might be a better choice for your first cruise. With dozens of activities a day, only the most jaded person will depart the ship feeling unfulfilled. *Shopping:  If you like to shop, head for big ships.  Many have floating versions of all the fine shops we have on land.  Large ships also offer extensive duty free shopping and daily bargains. Smaller vessels offer a chance to explore smaller ports. *24-hour room service and en-suite dining are usually a popular item on big ships. You will also find a florist shop and other specialty shops where you can surprise your partner with a gift or bouquet sent to your stateroom.  SMALL SHIP  advantages: *I'm a reader. Small ships encourage reading and intimate conversation. No "casts of thousands." *Tours are usually small and expertly run, with distinguished professors and guest lecturers describing the ports in a casual environment. (Head for a large ship if you want a huge auditorium with destination images on a large screen.)  But we've met lovely kindred spirits -- experts in history, the arts and archaeology -- on small vessels. The glitz and beauty of large ships, here Royal Caribbean, are a big draw. *Ports of call are generally more exotic and harder to reach in small ships.  Because they can maneuver in intimate ports and harbors, you'll see new villages and towns. If you cruise a lot, the itinerary is not important! Rome, Lisbon, Amsterdam. All great, multiple times. If you're just beginning your travels, ports play a larger role. Smaller ships can get into more exotic places -- here Tenerife in the Canary Islands, in a small, eight-person touring car. *Barge and river cruising: These naturally call for smaller vessels.  We've barged the Loire Valley, Burgundy and Champagne in France, and on the Thames in England.  Once, on an eight-day tulip barge trip in Holland, we were with only one other couple, an older Argentine husband and wife.  We became friends and kept in touch.  But if you happen to book a small vessel with only one other couple -- and don't get along for some reason -- it could be a long eight days.  This has never happened to us. A small port, such as this one in the south of France, may be more appealing than a large, busy port in a major city.  But each has its advantages. *Small vessels such as Seabourn and Silversea offer luxurious treatment and a fine passenger-staff ratio.  Crystal's Serenity offers two floors of Penthouses, gorgeous food and drink, great amenities and extras, and terrific, small tours. In the tradition of "you get what you pay for," the luxury lines cost more. *Besides offering a cozier atmosphere, smaller-size ships tout their unique atmosphere, promising unusual experiences, both on board and ashore. Activities may include kayaking off a wilderness island in Mexico, trimming the sails and climbing the rigging, or island hopping in the Greek Islands. Lisbon's delights include the Belem Tower, which Cookie and Keller visited before their Atlantic cruise. BOTTOM LINE:  What suits your fancy? Full circle to our earlier advice: consider your personality and private life. If you long for the Cookie plays piano whenever and wherever she's invited -- on cruise ships and, here, at Montana Jack's. She'll be there tonight! open ocean but can't stand the thought of an all-night disco,   dining with a thousand others, or queuing up to get off the ship in a congested Caribbean port, you'll probably want a smaller ship. But if you're a veteran cruiser -- and count me as a junkie -- you can have fun in the floating resort, too. You can learn to maneuver the crowds, read and take in the shows, and tailor the cruise to your own liking.  Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out weekends and Wednesdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids " FRIENDS, FAMILY and travel are what we most cherish. The holiday season, we express our gratitude for the people who mean the most to us -- family, of course, but also friends around the world of many faiths and persuasions. We are thankful to be able to visit and learn from them while expanding our global perspective. In Indonesia, Cookie and Keller visited many temples, with respect and curiosity. Balinese Hinduism is the predominant religion in the province of Bali, while Islam is the predominant religion in Indonesia, with 87% of the population identifying as Muslim. It was our third visit and most fascinating and eye-opening. During the holidays, lights glow warmer, music feels softer, hearts open a little wider. The season carries multiple meanings for our friends around the globe -- whether they celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, Diwali, or simply the turning of the year. This year, we traveled in Islamic, Christian and Hindu countries. We visited with Jewish friends in Europe. As our travels expose us to other cultures, we observe that each tradition holds its own beauty. We all treasure our history and culture, our music, food and holiday traditions. So at this time of year, we express our gratitude. Thankful for friends Maarten and Maarten and their labradoodle who welcomed us in Belgium where most people do not practice a religion but the country has a warm and welcoming spirit. As we celebrate the holiday spirit in our own fashion - may we all honor and respect people of all faiths. May we make our differences threads, not barriers - part of our shared human tapestry. We are thrilled to be part of others' lives during our travels. It gives us an opportunity to listen, learn, and celebrate together. The holiday lights go on in Bari, Italy. We spent a couple weeks with friends in Puglia, observing the rich heritage and influence of the Roman Catholic faith in the architecture of this bustling area in the heel of Italy's boot. Our goal with holiday spirit is to continue to be part of a world where kindness is the common language, and peace is the greatest gift we give one another. We hope you share our belief that keeping an open mind and generous heart are the keys to achieving peace on the planet. Tolerance and broadening our scope are essential pathways to a better world. Time to give thanks, express our love and strive for persona and global peace. We are thankful for our family in Atlanta, where we are welcomed each year for holiday festivities. We are thankful for music, here in Lecce, Italy, where we attended a concert of Vivaldi and Bach in one of the city's grand churches, Lecce Cathedral. . ******************************************************************************************** Cookie and Keller took their niece and nephew-in-law Amarylla and Steve, and their kids, our great niece and nephew Peny and James, on a Big Bus tour of San Francisco. It was a chilly day but our hearts were warm as this bucket list dream came true in a three-generation tour of their home town, a city we love, too. Coming soon : New Year's is the time to tackle your bucket list trip, and we're doing just that, with a Big Bus tour of San Francisco with our family. Whether your dream is a bus trip, a cruise to an exotic island, or a trip to a city you've long yearned to visit, now's the time. We just ticked an entry off our bucket list, with a return visit to the capital of Europe, Brussels, to kick off the holidays. We toured in an all-green bus, visited the world's most complete musical instrument museum, sampled what Belgians consider the world's best chocolate and braved the highways in a rental car in Puglia. What's your dream? What's stopping you from making it come true? We hope our Big Bus adventure will inspire you.

Artist Aki Narita calls her room design "Geisha Goldfish" incorporating two favorite elements of the Japanese culture. Art floor celebrates Japanese culture -- book a hotel room to enjoy the view of your own art show The approach to Park Hotel Tokyo leads one through lovely gardens. A plaque in each art room gives details about the artist, here is Aki Narita (see above). STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Park Hotel Tokyo rooms: ONE ROOM  feels like an underwater hideaway, with red geishas and floating koi -- giving the geisha's role in Asian culture an aquatic-laced nod. Artist Kazuki Mizuguchi's "Castle" room is underway, celebrating earlier  days of Tokyo's famed Royal Palace in shogun time. Down the hall, an artist labors over an elaborate homage to the Edo Dynasty. His feudal Tokyo of the 1700s shows stately shogun castles with gold and glitter. The Aki Kondo room, "Ota fuku Face," cleverly incorporates the room decor, including mirror and lights, into the artwork. Another room celebrates the carp, while nearby the fleeting beauty of Japan's fabled cherry trees is transformed to walls and ceilings. Down the hall, the "LuckyCat" chamber celibates the feline's charm. STILL OTHER  artful rooms feature dragons, sumo wrestlers, the horse, the bath house, Mt. Fuji, the ocean's bounty -- all revered in Japanese culture, and all artfully presented. Park Hotel Tokyo's unique art floor -- high above the city -- features 18 rooms created  by individual craftsmen and women.  The project is unique to Tokyo, and the world, as it celebrates the diversity, vision and excellence of a thriving city's artists. From tasty east-meets-west breakfast to evening cocktails, the Park Hotel's lobby is a relaxing gathering place. Hiroko Otake's "Cherry Blossoms" celebrates the culture's love of the tree. Park Hotel Tokyo opened in 2003 and several years ago took a daring, expensive step. It shows art in its lobby, on walls and in guest rooms. AS THE FIRST  Japanese hotel affiliated with the international Design Hotels group, Park Hotel Tokyo integrates refined architecture and quality hospitality with unique interior design, sculpture, displays and huge digital, high-tech projected art shows. Each Design Hotel reflects its culture and place. Yuko Matsubra and Emi Sotome work with the project, initiated in 2012, and are proud of its unique charm, popularity and evolution. THE HOTEL'S   in-house design committee reviewed applications, choosing artists whose work celebrates nature and the culture's gift for integrating it into life. "All four seasons are present in the rooms, with a variety of color and emotion," says Matsubara. "The rooms touch the beauty of the soul, and we hope refresh mind and body much as a museum visit does," adds Sotome. THUS FAR , 18 rooms on the 31st floor are completed. The entire floor will be done, attracting businessmen, and both Asian and western tourists to bustling Shiodome Media Tower in which the hotel is located (from the 25th-floor lobby, on up, up, up.) "Yokai" by artist Nobuo Magome celebrates folklore. We enjoyed the figures of supernatural powers, which are well known elements of Japanese culture. The art floor isn't the only attraction. Regular art shows are held in the hotel's lovely lobby, and the bar's and restaurant's presentations are artworks in themselves.   (We enjoyed both Japanese and western breakfast with visitors from France, Ireland, Australia and other Asian countries.) We met a delightful Italian bartender at the chic, internationally popular bar, and sampled delectable Japanese pastry in the bakery. There's also a business center, gym and spa. PARK HOTEL  is a quick walk from Shinbashi Station Close to both the famed Tsukiji Fish Market and much admired Tokyo Tower. We watched from our room designed by artist Nobuo Magome.  That is when we weren't studying the whimsical   ghosts, phantoms and apparitions in this charming art floor room. COMING UP:      Sudden death is difficult, but when a young person is taken unexpectedly, the pain is both severe and shocking. Nine-year old Marlee Rebecca Cluff passed away during our visit this week to Mendocino County. We enjoyed our short time with this "old spirit" musical muse who sang big band tunes and knew the constellations.  We knew Marlee through our nephew, James, and his partner, Kelle, who live on Purple Martin Farm near Point Arena, Marlee's home.   She died after a heroic lifetime struggle with congenital heart problems.  After many surgeries, her valiant little heart gave out. We pay tribute to Marlee and family next Friday. Our specialty is travel with a twist -- as we put a personal stamp on each situation we visit. Marlee Cluff sings at Purple Martin Farm near Point Arena.  The gifted child died April 7, and whereiscookie.com pays tribute to her life and legacy next.

The art of "fado" or music of the soul is a time honored, intricate and emotional rendering of Portuguese songs with a melancholy theme, sometimes of lost life or love gone wrong. Guitar Museum Portugal DEVOTES ITSELF TO CONCERTS, ART AND HISTORY OF GUITAR STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Photographs and beautifully displayed musical instruments highlight the museum's extensive walls of exhibits. IF YOU LOVE the guitar, you may want to travel to a northern Portuguese city for an inside look at this time honored instrument. Guitar Museum Portugal will be worth your time and money if you long to immerse yourself in the history, beauty and versatility of the guitar. Nowhere can one find a more extensive representation than at Porto's "Casa da Guitarra." You'll hear the familiar sounds of the instrument as you climb a polished stairway to this little gem of a museum.  It's small and tucked away, but not far from other landmarks of Porto.  Everyone knows where it is and can proudly direct you. Located in a two-story building near the city's famed Clerigos Tower, the museum attracts people from all over the world, of all ages and many backgrounds. All share a love of music and this graceful instrument which dates back to Portugal and Spain as early as the 13th Century. Viewers or patrons of a concert in the small, intimate hall are in for a treat with traditional Portuguese guitar accompaniment to fado singing. THE CASA da Guitarra was designed by Alfredo Teixeira, who created his masterpiece in 2012. He intended to create a space to promote the construction and dissemination of traditional Portuguese instruments and musical history. He did so with elegance. His masterpiece is part museum, part concert hall and part musical instrument store. It  supplies wood and other materials for building the guitar and other musical instruments. TO OUR delight, we happened on a concert. One of its missions is to promote concerts and provide a forum for musicians.  It also promotes exhibitions, offers music classes and sponsors workshops. Our concert was thrilling with the traditional accompaniment integral to fado. Two expert musicians played Portuguese guitar and fado viola, much like our mandolin. WE FELT  so much life in this lovely place. Fado singers are deeply involved in the story they're telling, always accompanied in formal circles by two guitars. Our guide told us, "The exchange of experiences between musicians, guitarists and music lovers contributes to the preservation of our heritage."  She stressed that the museum also provides a forum for new musical ideas "which makes our heritage alive and interesting for new generations to explore." SO PORTUGAL'S  "second city" has become the country's "guitar capital" -- known for its guitar teachers, performers and splendid guitar craftsmen. Guitar Museum Portugal (The casa), known to American visitors as "The Guitar House," has a magical feel to it.  Portuguese musical guitars have a noble heritage, dating to to Medieval times when troubadours and minstrels entertained the wealthy. But middle-class people and peasants found ways to enjoy the instrument because it could be carried fairly easily, often with a strap over a shoulder. It was also usually passed down from generation to generation. It's fitting that the museum's next door neighbor is Porto's splendid cathedral where noblemen and working class folks mingled centuries ago. A mix of people of all incomes and backgrounds continues to visit the museum. Dozens of beautifully crafted guitars are carefully displayed. WE TIMED our visit to the museum with tours of Clerigos Tower and Porto Cathedral, those illustrious guitar museum neighbors. We happened onto a  beautiful organ concert and had also booked "Spiritus," a multi-media immersive show. Spiritus awakens the senses WE RECOMMEND  the museum for an authentic encounter with Portuguese culture and its unique values ​​and traditions. Our afternoon included fado music, gorgeous Portuguese guitar music, time to browse vintage photos and inspect dozens of guitars, and a glass of port wine during intermission. The memory of the emotional voice of the resident fado singer, in the company of two splendid instrumentalists on Portuguese guitar and fado viola, lingers today. GUITAR AND FADO trivia: This centuries old tradition is on the rise in popular urban neighborhoods. Fado and Portuguese guitar have become Portugal's primary cultural expression. Our guide described the art form as "the manifestation of the soul of the people." Fado is deeply imbedded in the culture. We booked several fado concerts besides the one at the museum -- mostly in restaurants. But we heard young people in bars late at night singing impromptu fado with their friends. At formal concerts, it's not unusual for professionals to share the stage with amateurs who are moved to contribute a favorite song. The museum features a history of the instrument, with photos of famous guitarists through the years, and close-up looks at the instrument. The Portuguese guitar has 12 steel strings strung in six pairs. Portuguese guitars are smaller and have a softer, more mellow sound than Spanish guitars. They are used in traditional music throughout the world. We've seen them in Rio on visits to Brazilian cafes and bars. Spanish guitars are typically larger and have a brighter, more forceful sound. Guitar Museum Portugal The admission includes those wonderful daily concerts. It's 16 Euros or about the same in dollars. Don't miss an opportunity for a visit.  www.casadaguitarra.pt and other helpful Porto contacts: www.portocvb.com www.citypasses.eu/en/citytrip-porto/porto-card/ www.porto.travel/clerigos-tower www.torredosclerigos.pt www.porto.travel spiritusporto.com   UP NEXT:  Climb every mountain? Well, not yet, but we've climbed a few spectacular bridges. Days ago, we climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge for a second time. The massive iconic structure is the symbol of Australia. Along with the magnificent Sydney Opera House, it attracts scores of visitors each year. We braved it on a warm but thrilling afternoon. It's a challenge well worth the ladders, ropes, straps, and work-out. Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller climb Sydney Harbour Bridge a second time and share its wonders. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family, road tripping, offbeat restaurants and more:  www.whereiscookie.com   Please share the link.