AVOID TROUBLE BY DOCUMENTING EVERYTHING, PHOTOGRAPHING DAMAGE, OBSERVING LOCAL SIGNS Renting a car abroad -- here in Sardinia -- calls for advance planning. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER RENTING A CAR while traveling abroad can be unnerving. Daunting questions arise: What do you do about a bang or a ding noticed before you take the car out of the lot? How will you transcend a language barrier? Do you book at home before you go, or wait and take your chances there? What about airport rentals versus A small car is a good idea, particularly in southern Europe. downtown or hotel rentals? Can you pick up your car in one town and deliver it in another? THESE TIPS -- in two blog posts, today and Saturday -- will help you navigate the paperwork and come out safely with a good experience. We've had luck renting through Europcar, which we've used in several European cities. It's a thrill to be on the road and on your own in a new place! You can indeed pick up a car in one town and drop it off in another, but you must make your desire clear in the contract from the beginning. (Say you're flying into Barcelona and returning to the U.S. from Madrid. No worries, but let the car people know on-line.) Maneuvering in close quarters -- here Egypt -- challenges. So that you do not squander a moment of your precious time abroad, book in advance. You will save money by booking on line and printing out the contract. Take some time on the web and look and comparison shop. Even payment can be made before you leave home. You'll know the precise amount and won't have to translate Euros or other foreign currency. It's also cheaper, easier, safer and less likely to include hidden clauses. Once you are abroad, exchange rates can change, you'll have unfamiliar rental agreements, possible language barriers and other cultural differences. GASSING UP. You'll get the car with a full tank and save money by filling it up yourself just before you return it. Most car companies charge a standard fee of up to $100, depending on the car's size, if they refill it for you. Hertz charged us for gas, despite the fact that we'd filled up the car minutes before returning it. We supplied the dated credit credit card receipt showing the charge in Euros for a full tank. In time, the charge was reversed. Be sure to fill your tank up just before you return the car; keep a receipt. IT'S A SHAME we have to be so defensive while renting cars, but it's the way life has become. Record anything suspicious for the record "just in case." We rent the car in the airport and return it to the airport, which is cheaper than returning or renting downtown or at your hotel. And you save the cab fare to get to your first overnight stop. If you are unlucky enough to have an accident, take photos. WE DOCUMENT with photos any scratches, dings or questionable areas not noted on the contract. This was helpful recently when Hertz also charged our credit card nearly $300 more for a supposed dent incurred, the company said, during our rental. We disputed the charge with photos of a small ding taken before we left the lot. It proved that we hadn't done it, that it was a rusty dent and had obviously occurred some time ago. We also noted that part of the "damage" in the bad photos sent us was a tree leaf. If, gods forbid, you do have an accident, take photos of everything while waiting for the officials. Give yourself plenty of time to get where you're going in unfamiliar cities. ASK ABOUT weekend specials, late penalties and gas charges. Unadvertised discounts and hidden costs may not be explained at the time of rental, and it may be too late once you find out. Be sure to know the time for drop-off. Be a bit early. Many rental agencies begin charging for each 24-hour-period from the time of rental, and will bill a full day if you return the car even minutes after another 24-hour period begins. In Rome and elsewhere, scooters buzz easily about cars. START A FOLDER as soon as you book your trip. Toss clippings and promotional codes you come upon. If you see a TV ad for a good rental car rate, jot it down. If you're reading a magazine or newspaper, clip ads and write down promotional codes. Many of the best rates do not show up on agents' computer screens. Inquire about senior citizen, AAA, credit card and frequent flier program discounts or add-on offers. Be sure to show your airline or member card for the promised mileage credit before you drive the car off the lot. THIS WEEKEND: Small or large car, manual or automatic transmission, driver's license and insurance information. More on car rentals abroad. We post weekends and Wednesdays. Remember to explore, learn and live, and tell your friends about www.whereiscookic.com.

A VISIT AND OVERHEARD CONVERSATION BRING REVELATION OF THE PLACE'S HISTORIC IMPORTANCE With the grandeur of Tara in "Gone with the Wind," Oak Alley's "big house" rests at the end of a grand oak entryway. The view from the second-story balcony at Oak Alley. A docent in period dress guides guests through the living room of Oak Alley. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER PLANTATIONS make me nervous. Revisiting the sorry history of slavery should make one uncomfortable. The juxtaposition of small, stark slave houses against the opulent mansions is always startling. Especially with "Twelve Years a Slave" fresh in our minds, and its deserving recent Oscar wins, one realizes that suffering and pain of many crafted "the good life" for the few. YET HISTORY lives on -- with all its complexity -- in the beautiful Oak Alley Plantation near New Orleans. Located in Vacherie, Louisiana, where creole French is still spoken and the oaks are centuries old, Oak Alley is commanding. With its graceful crepe myrtles, restful gardens and enduring cast iron sugar kettles, one almost smells molasses thickening in the glory days. I VISITED the plantation for the second time, thinking of my journeys in terms of understanding history. I overheard one tourist say to another, "I noticed in the guest register that your name is Riley. My family might have been owned by your family." Spring is fully sprung at Oak Alley. And old-fashioned blacksmith shows how to make nails in an exhibit. INSTEAD OF offending one another, the two women -- one white, one black, both curious and articulate -- exchanged addresses and the intent to continue their acquaintance in pursuit of research and information. Learning trumped guilt, prejudice or anger. Oak Alley, now a non-profit trust and historical monument, gained a reputation before the Civil War for its decent treatment of slaves. Owned by a wealthy Creole sugar planter, Jacques Telesphore Roman, and his bride Celina, it is a splendid example of the Greek Revival architecture of the times, designed by the bride's father. Cookie pauses outside the slave quarters of Oak Alley. THE PLACE was a prestigious home and grand receptions were held in the ballroom. (Couples still marry in the historic home and one was planning their wedding during our visit.) But the oaks are the undisputed stars. The "alley" for which the place is named is a quarter-mile long with more than two dozen 300-year old Virginia Live Oaks. The trees are registered and named. The star of the oak show has a 30-foot girth and 127-foot spread of limbs. Live oaks can live to be 600 years old, which makes the Oak Alley trees only middle-aged. THE GRANDLY decorated and furnished rooms of the Big House contrast to the slavery, two rows of cabins where the ledger with the slaves names is displayed. One of the property's most successful gardeners was a slave named Antoine, who successfully grafted 110 trees in a nearby orchard. His showpiece trees were particularly pretty and prolific, An Oak Alley bedroom, with canopy. but were displaced to make way for sugarcane through the years. Last year, Oak Alley Foundation planted 13 pecan trees to replace them and to honor the gifted slave, Antoine, who made the pecan an important part of the plantation's legacy.The home's last owners, the Stewarts, are buried on the place along with beloved pets. The lady of the house, Josephine, gardened daily until her death in 1972. The boxwoods she fussed over are 100 years old. The slave quarters are of course simpler, more utilitarian. A HOST of movies has been filmed at the plantation, including the 1965 classic, "Hush, Hush, Sweet Charlotte," with Bette Davis, 1993's "Interview with the Vampire" (Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt stayed in New Orleans during the filming of the Anne Rice best seller) and in Beyonce's hit music video, "Deja Vu." UNLIKE MANY other historic homes and plantations, Oak Alley is still a working sugarcane operation. The Big House tour is fascinating and you can self-guide yourself around the slave grounds, with a stop for a praline or a dish of gumbo at the restaurant. OakAlleyPlantation.org COMING SOON: Begorrah! 'Tis St. Patrick's Day soon. We'll look at the loves and lore of the Irish and some of the world's most joyful parades. Who was St. Patrick -- really? Is it true about the snakes? All that and more at: www.whereiscookie.com. Remember to explore, learn and live. Find us Wednesdays and weekends and share the link.

TRAVELER'S BALANCING ACT: HAVING A GOOD TIME MEANS ENJOYING THE MOMENT, BUT BEING READY TO BE SPONTANEOUS, SMELL THE ROSES One of the continent's largest markets was a surprise find for our travelers in Sao Paulo, Brazil. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS The rugged Costa Brava provided a scenic vista with surprising views. PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER MY GRANDFATHER said, "When a plum falls from the sky, open your mouth." Thanks for the wisdom, gramps. I've enjoyed many a "plum" on your advice. The trick is not letting it hit you on the head! Keep your eyes on the prize but watch where you're going. TRAVELING WELL is a balancing act, as is the art of living itself. Jerusalem's cavernous Church of the Holy Sepulchre and nearby Western Wall yielded a surprise. I plan our large trips two and three years ahead, spending hours, days even weeks checking resources, making reservations, researching hotels, cruises, museums. I scour brochures and the internet for car rental options, theater choices, eateries, hikes and outings that make the locale unique. I consider the appeal of cities and towns themselves, weighing their strengths against our preferences. A visit to Key Largo, Florida, prompted a cocktail party. ONCE ON the road, though, I'm ready for adventure. I like to be happily surprised. Good thing, because my partner-photographer Keller likes to explore. A spontaneous city tour led us to one of South America's largest markets in the center of Sao Paulo Brazil. We're still enjoying the cumin and cinnamon from a wonderful spice shop, and we feasted for two days on the fruit. An unplanned hike to a Costa Rica park introduced this lizard. WE'VE TAKEN side roads that lead to dead ends, with cattle grazing in open range. We've taken roads that lead to splendid vistas and riverbanks with migrating geese. Once, in remote eastern Spain, we stumbled upon a 12th Century village with only one other stroller and a golden lab snoozing in the sun. BEING FLEXIBLE and curious on the road means having a more relaxing time. A recent day trip in Guatemala produced friends to lunch with. I like to take off my watch on a sunny southern European morning. Shedding that reminder of time and the "real world" opens my mind and heart. Our Costa Brava adventure last November yielded not only the beautiful village, but a small town with a hardware store! Keller found a transformer to step our electronics down from 220 volts to 110. He was a kid in the candy shop, in the Spanish version of Ace Hardware. MEETING HELPFUL, friendly people is another bonus of flexible travel. We've never had a problem getting grounded or back on track and we've been lost countless times. Sailing off the beaten path yielded this lovely picnic setting near Seattle. Don't be hesitant about pulling over into the farmer's yard if you see him baling hay. He'll point you to the little lake down the road with a stunning view of the sunset. He'll tell you where to find watercress or a waterfall up the trail. We happened upon a pretty park in Yuma, Arizona, which became our picnic stop on many trips between Phoenix and San Diego ANOTHER TIME -- and this was a Keller solo -- we were touring Jerusalem with friends. Entering the Western Wall, honoring tradition, we went our separate ways -- men on the left side, women on the right, separated by a stone wall. Keller and Cookie took time to be silly on a Las Vegas trip. I watched from the female side as Keller followed a group of male mourners into a small room. "Oh, my," I thought. "He'll miss the 4 p.m. tour departure for the Church of the Holy Seplulchre. He made the meeting time, though, wide eyed from his discovery. He'd been invited to join the family as the kaddish was offered and took beautiful photos the rest of us missed. IN COSTA Rica a few weeks ago, we took a hike on a trail recommended by new friends, and came upon a lizard who inflated his throat into an amazing red balloon! Smelling the "flowers" in travel is literal and figurative. In Guatemala, we met a couple from Sweden who invited us to sail with them and join them for lunch! In Florida, we toured with two couples who invited us to a spontaneous cocktail hour and a fascinating boat ride where we came upon mating turtles. Stopping to "smell the roses," we enjoyed a rare bloom in the ocean's garden. IF YOU do get lost -- or lose your companion -- e calm. Have a game plan before, as we do, that if you can't find one another you'll return to your last meeting place. Finally, don't be afraid to be silly and have fun. Inspired by the crazy mix of people in Las Vegas a couple years ago, we changed our hair styles had fun with a "punky" self portrait. James Hayes, with his dog Millie, grows organic vegetables and makes wine in a northern California farm with a social conscience. Next up at whereiscookie.com NEXT UP: California's north coast yields many pleasures, including this special farm, where wine is made and organic produce is grown and sold to a restaurant with healthy and tasteful delights for the palate. We're about travel with a sense of fun and adventure. Join us to explore, learn and live and check us out at www.whereiscookie.com

Cookie at Oceanside Harbor in southern California, with Nick and Nora, beginning a recent two-week odyssey. COOKIE'S MOTHER'S MILK: TRAVEL ENRICHES, ENLIGHTENS, ENERGISES Cookie, right, age three, sister Peny with their mother Ellen. Already, she was a "seasoned" traveler. I KEEP my passport renewed and ready to go, and my bag is always packed. I could be ready to head for the airport with a half hour's notice. I don't really care where I'm going, as long as I'm on my way. Keller christens a new adventure with champagne! When people say "Oh, I've done Paris" (or the Amazon, an African safari or the Antarctic) I cringe. They've done the place! Impossible. A Bedouin takes to his transport at the Pyramids in Egypt. Just as no two days are alike, no two trees exactly the same, or no two people identical, no city, island or place remains static. We don't eat a single meal and say we've done dining! I'VE BEEN on more than 100 cruises. Each offers new excitement and experiences, even if the ports might be repeats. I've been to Paris a dozen times and never fail to feel its magic anew. I've been on the Amazon three times and hope I have another three trips in me. Ditto, my many trips to Ireland, the Hawaiian Islands, and Australia and New Zealand, where I'll return in November. Two kids with wanderlust: Cookie and Keller at Belem Castle in Lisbon. My mother took me on my first road trip when I was just over two and my sister Peny was not quite one. We drove to Kansas in a green Oldsmobile, with my grandparents, Gus and Olive Nystul, to visit my great-aunt Lillian and her husband Ronnie. It was a month of total magic to me and I vividly remember the drive-in stops for milk shakes, the Mount Rushmore sculptures, the motel rooms, menus I collected, stories my grandpa told and movie ticket stubs. It was my own Yellow Brick Road and I've followed it ever since. I DISCOVERED a few months back that my great great grandfather was ambassador to the Netherlands from his native England. That explains both why I am a die-hard Anglophile, and why I have incurable wanderlust. Cookie, right, and her sister Misha on Mission Bay, San Diego. Many of my favorite travel memories have to do with water -- bays, oceans, rivers. Others have to do with theater, and I'm waiting for a play right now in Ashland, Oregon, an all-female production of "Two Gentlemen of Verona." The Oregon Shakespeare Festival is another ever-changing tradition for me. Each play is unique -- each "Two Gents" spectacular. The scholar Augustine of Hippo said, “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” MARK TWAIN believed travel to be "fatal to bigotry, prejudice and narrow mindedness." And Jack Kerouac referred to his love of each "new, crazy adventure beneath the skies."  Queen Califia's Magical Circle in Escondido was a surprise find, as our travelers happened upon it while picnicking in Kit Carson Park. Many of us love travel and live for each new trip. It enlarges, enlivens, enlightens! It gives energy. It's mother's milk. Keller's grandmother was a travel agent in Minneapolis. She immigrated from Sweden, took many tour groups back to her native land, and was around the world five times by the time Keller was ten years old. He, too, came by his wanderings naturally, lived in Saudi Arabia and has traveled the world. OUR BEST times together are on our travel adventures. Whether it's a day trip to the country (where we often stumble upon magic) or a month-long odyssey to South America or the Far East, we are grateful for each new day together, and the opportunity to share the world's wonders as a team -- partners in life, adventure and this blog.  COMING NEXT: Cookie and Keller take to a kayak, and manage to stay afloat. A peaceful estuary at Moss Landing reveals gorgeous and graceful clam-crunching otters, huge sea lions belching and making other noises not appropriate to mention in polite company, and dozens of pelicans preening and lunching. We are about travel with a sense of fun and adventure off the beaten track. Visit us s at: www.whereiscookie.com

PERFECT SETTING, CALM CALIFORNIA WATERS HELP GIRL GET BACK IN THE BOAT Pelicans at Moss Landing were part of the lure to get Cookie back in the kayak after an accident derailed her. Cookie musters her intrepid bravery chip and prepares to kayak again. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A KAYAKING KID am I now, thanks to friends who coaxed me back onto the water. They knew I'd had a kayaking accident on my one and only attempt at the sport -- hit by a wave in the South Pacific and overturned in Bora Bora. So I'd been reluctant -- even though that was 20 years ago. The soothing setting of friends' redwood forest home prepared our travelers for a tranquil time in the kayak. They assured me that the waters at Moss Landing, near Santa Cruz, California, were welcoming and gentle. And that we would return before the tide made kayaking difficult. AND SO it came to pass. We ladies sipped coffee on the redwood forest patio of our hosts while the boys put the kayaks on top of the van. The girls packed jackets and waterproof booties in the economy car and we met at the pretty little village. Moss Landing is a quaint, historic fishing town smack in the middle of California's Monterey Bay coastline. Although I'd traveled this stretch of coastline many times, I'd never stopped to savor this hidden treasure. Moss Landing is at the red "A" marking BESIDES galleries and shops, there are many nature related activities including whale watching and simply walking the unspoiled beach. Beautiful, historic accommodations and fun restaurants lure tourists. In fact, surfers were readying to ride the waves as we unpacked the kayaks. I fortified myself with herbal calm pills. Brad Smith, old friend and college buddy of Keller's, guided me into our kayak and helped me arrange myself comfortably. I was in the front. Keller was in the rear, and soon we were paddling our way out into Elkhorn Slough, internationally known for its splendid Brad Smith, left, and Bruce Keller: a water-laced friendship. wildlife viewing. Brad and his wife Maggie led the path into a marshy panorama. SOME FOLKS venture out into the harbor in search of whales, but because of my long ago mishap, our friends recommended staying in the calmer inland waters of the Slough, which provided us close-up views of dozens of river otters. We could hear them crunching on crabs, opening them on rocks or their own breast bones. Crack, crack, crunch, crunch. It was wonderful. A river otter basks in the sun and readies himself for his water borne meal. The Monterey Bay's river otter diet consists of crayfishes, crabs, and other aquatic invertebrates. More daring otters also eat frogs. They dine on the water, lying on their backs, with their food on the chest. Takes dining al fresco to new heights! DESPITE CONCERN that otters compete with game fishers, the fishes otters like are mainly non-game species. Otters also occasionally prey on birds, rabbits, and rodents if they get too close to the water. Thanks to Brad's and Maggie's kayaking expertise, we watched sea otters dining for a couple hours. Maggie and Brad Smith enjoy the serenity in their kayak. Then came the pelicans, the other star of our adventure, also adept at eating on the run -- or shall we say "on the fly"? WITH ITS showy plumage and distinct feeding methods, the brown pelican we watched at Moss Landing sets itself apart from seven other pelican species. It's a small species, and the only one known to dive and dine. Most pelican species feed by corralling fish into shallow waters through a group chase before scooping them up with their large beaks. Brown pelicans have their own method: once they spot the light reflecting off the scales of fish, they plunge Brad packs the kayaks up again. into the water from heights of up to 70 feet, scoop up fish, drain water through their beaks and tip their heads back to swallow. Air sacs beneath their skin protect them from injury when they hit the water. KAYAKING got us up close and personal to the otter and his neighbor the pelican -- with dozens near us on the shore, and many swooping overhead to fish and frolic. We also saw many large sea lions and smaller seals. And a fish lunch, made to order, after the adventure. I NOW trust kayaking, and will try it again. I found it to be a relaxing sport, with sound instruction (which I obviously didn't have my first fateful time), and with good equipment, which Brad and Maggie provided. The Inuit word, kayak, means "man's boat" but we girls held up our end! We weren't exactly "at one" with our kayak -- Keller is a better paddler than I -- but after a couple kayaking hours, we looked like we knew what we were doing. Mostly. And from the beginning, I was relaxed, calm, full of wonder, grateful for kind friends and the opportunity to conquer an old demon. The Sundial Bridge in Redding, Calif., is world famous and a wonderful walking adventure. NEXT UP: Location, location, location. The Sundial Bridge in Redding, Calif., is a wondrous, walkable work of art. It's in a pretty city you might never have visited. And it's both a bridge and the world's largest sundial. And a unique B&B is walking distance from the bridge. What makes a B&B special? Find out next as we visit the Bridge House Bed and Breakfast, and take a stroll across the famous bridge. We're about travel, the arts and adventure, with a sense of fun. Join us on a northern California wildlife trek, a return to Hearst Castle, and our picks for "hot, hip coastal hotels." Explore, learn and live and visit us at: www.whereiscookie.com

Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge on St. Croix is the longest stretch of beach in the U.S Virgin Islands. This beautiful beach is a protected environment, home to the endangered leatherback turtle. The port that is now Christiansted was visited by Columbus on his second voyage to the new world. St. Croix attractions ISLAND OFFERS MIX OF THE STATELY, SERENE, SURPRISING; BIKING IS A FINE WAY TO EXPLORE IT Cookie takes to the bike with a custom helmet -- then away, St. Croix. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" 'HOW ABOUT a bike ride? St. Croix will be beautiful from a bike.'' My adventuresome partner asked, suggesting an outing. Mahogany trees, now several hundred years old, pave the way to still stately plantations reminding of the island's Colonial and plantation days. "It's a beautiful island, and we could see a good share of the shoreline, plus forests and plantations. And it's only 15 miles," he lobbied. "Okay," said I, not wishing to be accused of cowardice or laziness. So we booked the scenic bike ride from our Serenade of the Seas balcony. It promised plantations, rain forests, panoramic coastal views, historic city sights and an engaging commentary. First on our St. Croix itinerary: we wanted to explore its highlights. We hoped to see a stately plantation -- elegant even in decay -- and we'd read about the pretty stone walkways, historic churches with grassy graves and fascinating inscriptions. We wanted to see rolling green hills, coral beaches, sea turtles and snorkelers looking for wonders of the sea. Bikers get a brief history of the island, the only one actually named by Christopher Columbus, who anchored off a natural bay west of Christiansted, known today as Salt River. There was time for snacks and photos of leatherback sea turtles during the tour. In its heyday, St. Croix was among the Caribbean's top producers of sugar and molasses. Cruzan rum is still a huge export. We wanted to see a rum factory. We saw it all! WE HELMETED up with bikes for our size, then set off from the Danish port of Christiansted on a lovely 75 degree day. We'd just heard on our ship that most of the U.S. was again blanketed in a blizzard, so we relished our bike outing on a gorgeous warm St. Croix day. Baby leatherbacks take their first steps toward the sea. FIRST, WE biked around the town, a picturesque partly restored port, with vestiges of graceful Danish architecture and native peoples' imprint. The last of the Native Indian people to inhabit St. Croix were the Carib, a nomadic people with wanderlust and sailing skills. Originally from the Guiana region of South America, the Carib were not the first Indians on St. Croix. The Tainos and Arawaks were there earlier, but the Carib greeted Columbus in 1493, when he anchored off a natural bay, know known as Salt River. Our St. Croix bike tour included a visit to St. Croix's landmarks, such as this lovely Danish style government building, with its graceful archways. ST. CROIX is a world away from the U.S. -- 1,700 miles south of New York, 1100 miles south east of Miami, near the eastern tip of the Caribbean island chain. On the same latitude as Acapulco and Hawaii, just below the Tropic of Cancer, its eternal summer is caressed by cooling breezes. The people are relaxed and friendly, and there is a greatest tourist draw: leatherback sea turtles. We weren't there for their egg-laying, but heard of this oldest sea turtle species with its 150-million year history on Earth. This largest sea turtle is the fourth largest living reptile on our planet. It can weigh 2,100 pounds and be 10 feet long. We saw where the females come to lay their eggs, under vigilant eyes of environmentalists. We learned that this handsome leatherback is the only sea turtle that does not have a hard shell. It can dive up to 3,000 feet! WE LEFT St. Croix with views of vintage fishing trawlers, barges, tugboats and thriving coral reefs, thinking of the Arawak and Carib people whose burial grounds we'd visited. Hoping to return to see the turtles. St. Croix's landscape still seems pristine and this lovely island was fortunately spared the ravages of the latest hurricane. We can't wait to dive again into the serenity and beauty of St. Croix. The Caribbean's oldest railway is still up and running on St. Kitts. Come with us on a 30-mile historic rail tour with lively tales of the island's lore. UP NEXT: Not far from St. Croix, but another world unto itself, St. Kitts welcomes us. We hitch a ride on the Caribbean's oldest railway, listen to a wonderful vocal trio, learn of the military engineering for which the island is noted, and admire impressive volcanic rock structures built on the back of slaves. We enjoy a spectacular view where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean and are eager to share all this with you. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a novel look at travel, the arts, family and nature.

Master builder Bruce Keller, whose specialty is high-end La Jolla, Calif., projects, is spending part of his summer in the Beartooths, helping Cookie with their summer home. REMODELING POINTER: YOU WILL EVENTUALLY HAVE BEAUTY,BUT AT A PRICE! PATIENCE IS A PREREQUISITE Expert framer Tom Giamanco traveled from San Diego to help. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WAAAAAAAAH. RICKY. I've been making my own personal "I Love Lucy" home movie.  I'm thinking of the famous chocolate candy assembly line, or the grape stomping scene.  I can't remember ever being so frustrated, excited, confused, over-extended and overwhelmed -- with more than a little physical pain thrown into the mix. KELLER knew I'd always wanted a "tree house" in the second story.  With mature aspen, beautiful stars and sky, and a backdrop of gorgeous mountains, large windows to frame the view seem a natural. With bird feeders out the new shower skylight. KELLER MADE it happen.  But it had been 22 years since I'd walked the construction trail, and my moccasins were out of step.  This major overhaul of the second-floor rooms involves the whole house: addition of a new bathroom and bedroom, redo of the office and library, a new solarium bedroom and redesign of the entryway and first floor walkway. Landscaping was torn up. Siding was torn off.  "Demo" -- contractor lingo for "demolition" -- involves destruction beyond belief. I've feared for the lives of our Yorkies, Nick and Nora, lest they be hit by flying debris.  I've been a weepy mess. Tom, painter Jim Slater and Keller keep the Yorkies,  Nick and Nora, safely out of harm's way. BUT HOLD ON. There's bound to be trial and tribulation when people are living in the home being remodeled.  And although Keller's budget estimate was close -- within a few thousand of his original estimate --  the money has been flying out the window like the cliff swallows circling at dusk. Throw in various unrelated annoyances, the ordering, delays, wrong materials, unreliable deliveries and etc.etc.etc.: Plus: Cookie, arm in sling and looking more than a bit overwhelmed, fixes lunch for the troops and awaits her "Calm" pill to kick in.  *Two flat tires on the Explorer were followed by a blow-out on the truck. Darrel Holmquist located the septic  tank and prepared for addition  of a new sewer line to new bathroom. *The refrigerator died three days after we arrived July 1. Because it fits under a custom made cupboard, it is a special heighth and thus a special order.  We were three weeks living out of coolers with the back-up 70-year old Frigidaire in the garage (thank goodness for it.) *One of the toilets in the older parts of the home checked out.  Or was it the plumbing Bruce Keller, left, and Bradford Smith of southern California, at work. below the toilet?  Suffice to say, ugly mess and overflowing waters.  Many towels relegated to rag bag and problem finally fixed, thanks to Stillwater Plumbing. BEARTOOTH LUMBER  has been a godsend, too, delivering much of our needed paint, lumber, drywall, stain and thousands of dollars worth of windows. Lunches and dinners have been a challenge -- with many extra people. But we're eating well. Keller's able colleagues have been flying in and out of San Diego. Don't despair.  Plants will grow back, and everything will be pretty again. All of this wouldn't have been so unnerving with both arms, but with one arm in a sling, result of an accident a few weeks ago, I'm moving more slowly. And I'm still in considerable pain from serious arm injury. CO-ORDINATING  schedules of the back-hoe man, septic tank man, plumber, roofer, and an array of Keller's talented California assistants has called upon my travel agent savvy, meditation skills, and extra helpings of Calms Forte. Good thing I've navigated the world and know how to arrange work times and schedules. Fixing meals for the gang -- nine workers here one day -- has taxed my imagination and resources. I think I have a dazed look on my face much of the time. Builder Tom Giamanco takes time to enjoy the west fork of the Stillwater, and to keep in touch with his California friends and family.  NEXT UP :  Our two-parter on construction woes segues to tips for staying sane and keeping your relationship happy during a remodeling project.  Especially when you're living in the home you're improving upon, you need patience and good will toward one another. You also need to take time off to have a little fun. And you must look at the big picture:  the addition will be beautiful, the dust and disruption will disappear, and you'll be happy. We try to imbue our pieces with a sense of fun, and our travel stories with the spirit of innovation and adventure.   Remember to explore, learn and live and check us out Wednesdays and weekends at www.whereiscookie.com

Autumn arrives in the northern hemisphere. Here, Norway's gentle slopes and hills resemble parts of Montana. FIND BEAUTY IN THE INEVITABLE CHANGE OF SEASONS “Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower. “– Albert Camus STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The grass was just beginning to turn as autumn began earlier this month with Cookie and Keller in the Netherlands. WE LOVE to travel in autumn. The kids are back in school, the evening air is crisp and cool. There's something about autumn that makes us appreciate being alive. Perhaps it's the leaves falling, snows coming, change in the air. The combination makes us grateful. We in the northern hemisphere call it fall: the shedding of leaves from deciduous trees. Autumn is around the corner. If you believe the chill in the air, the need for a fire and the disappearance of the hummingbirds from the northern Rockies, it's fall already. Those vivid colors – the transition from green to light yellow, deep gold, orange, crimson and dark red – are inspiring, yet bittersweet. On a fall pilgrimage to southern Spain last fall. The balmy nights of summer and hot days of July and August are a sweet memory. We see The hollyhocks were late this year. This one was photographed two days ago. Its many buds may not bloom. grass growing golden, smell the sweet smoke of controlled burning and regret that summer flew by so quickly. Autumn came early to these trees on the West Fork of the Stillwater. Falling leaves and the colors of the season have fascinated writers and poets for centuries. One of my favorite writers, Albert Camus, had a soft spot in his heart for fall. Skeptical about many things, he was sentimental about fall and embraced autumn above the Autumn grass and a pair of strolling bison in Yellowstone National Park last week. Cookie takes time out to admire a lemon tree rich with autumn fruit in Crete. other seasons. He defined the human condition as absurd, and struggled to understand the conflict between man's desire for meaning and clarity and what he called "the silent, cold universe" on the other. Apparently he found warmth and meaning in fall when he wrote, "Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is awakened." WE MAKE an annual fall pilgrimage to Yellowstone National Park, Teddy Roosevelt's finest gift to the country and the world. In autumn, it shines like a well loved tiara. Wildlife watching is prime. We were thrilled to hear the elks' high-and-low pitch changing bugling. Musical mating calls in symphonic splendor. Haunting and memorable. Engineer-poet-lecturer Stanley Horowitz has an autumn take I love: "Winter is an etching, spring a watercolor, summer an oil painting and autumn a mosaic of them all.” My vow: to embrace autumn, invite it into my orbit. Please join me. The canals of Amsterdam are legendary, in this city below sea level. Here, we explore the waterways near the Anne Frank House. NEXT UP: Appealing Amsterdam. Next week we begin a lively three-part look at one of the world's most engaging, progressive cities. We take you to Amsterdam's canals and windmills, famous cafes and coffee shops, the red light district, and the famous hotel suite occupied by John Lennon and Yoko Ono 50 years ago during their "Peace In." iamsterdam.com (official website of the city) Finally, a rijsttafel feast, that wondrous concoction of many small courses brought to Holland during its sailing years in Indonesia. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, nature, family, food and more. Go to whereiscookie.com

A HOTEL WITH HEART, AMBIANCE, SOCIAL CONSCIENCE, TOP-NOTCH SERVICE The Pan Pacific Hotel's appointments are artful and Asian inspired, creating an atmosphere both soothing and stimulating. Above, a view from the 10th floor elevator and at right, the tastefully decorated lobby. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THROUGH MY years of travel, I've developed two hotel ratings lists -- "top ten" and "ten worst." It changes with new finds -- sublime inns and guest houses that do everything right. Then there are the occasional stinkers. Today, a find! A real treasure. A RECENT visit to Seattle's seductive Pan Pacific has me adjusting my list. Either Pan Pacific will replace one of the other outstanding discoveries, or my list will grow from Every staff member exhibits personality and concern for the guest, here Ryan Crosby greets Cookie at the hotel's entrance. Above left, the attractive neighborhood include community minded philanthropies, such as the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. Upscale restaurants, Nordstrom's flagship, galleries amd boutiques are also near Pan Pacific. "top ten" to "elegant eleven." Here's why: *PAN PACIFIC looks beautiful and welcoming -- with tasteful contemporary art, live plants and pride in service! A pretty outdoor dining and relaxing area beckons as a staff member welcomes you. The Pan Pacific specializes in personalized service, the kind well heeled businessmen and world travelers are accustomed to. The staff conveys an authentic interest in the guest. From the moment we were picked up by Jason and the courtesy limo, to our departure a few days later, we felt pampered, cared about and part of the Pan Pacific family. The front desk manager wished us safe travels as he escorted us to our car. * GUEST ROOMS are spacious and handsomely decorated, with thought to relaxing colors and fabric, top technology and an artistic Asian American flair. Because Pan Pacific Hotel and Resorts spans the Pacific Rim, the elegant chain showcases the art of that vast region from North America's west coast across Asia to the coastlines of Australia. My first Pan Pacific stay was in Singapore years ago, and I was reminded in its Seattle property of the many genteel touches. (Ice for the rooms is stored in an attractive wooden chest, looking like a piece of furniture.) Some of the Pan Pacific's spacious suites have telescopes. * PAN PACIFIC Hotel Seattle offers spectacular views including one of the attractive Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, the star of the progressive neighborhood. We gazed at the Space Needle from sunrise coffee to sunset cocktails, relishing Seattle's gorgeous skyline with its multi-hued colors. Located at 2200 Westlake Plaza, it's a superb location. We walked a few steps to Whole Foods for wine and cheese. Nordstrom's (the flagship store), a fun deli, boutiques and a couple fun bars are within strolling distance. We enjoyed a brisk and refreshing 20-minute walk to the pier to catch the ferry to Seattle's colorful waterfront is near -- a few blocks of pleasant strolling. Bainbridge. The property is only 20 auto minutes from Seattle Tacoma International Airport, and a few blocks from Seattle's efficient and much used high speed train, which travels to the airport in a speedy half hour. * THIS IS A hotel with a social conscience. Seattle's Pan Pacific recycles gently used soaps and toiletries to a nearby women's shelter, observes the "use your towel again" green rule and donates "unpresented" excess food from the catering department to Seattle's hungry, through projects and shelters. The energy efficient Pan Pacific has a "Social Responsibility Committee" whose thrust is "giving back to the community." The property's savvy community relations manager Ryan Crosby says the operation is both civic minded and eco-friendly top to bottom -- even the building's shell and core were made from recycled materials. A fitness center, complete spa and whirlpool await. *PAN PACIFIC is a well mannered inn. The staff is enlightened and gracious at every turn. The concierge mailed an art poster home for us, and made arrangements for a harbor cruise. The porter fetched us ice and brought a morning paper without our asking when he delivered our bags. It's obvious the staff enjoys its work and makes easy connections with guests. Our drivers, concierge and waiters were personable, articulate and courteous, as was everyone we encountered. What an impression this makes. * AMENITIES, activities abound at Pan Pacific. We happened to hit the Tuesday night wine tasting, when Pan Pacific invites vintners to set up shop and share their wares. Locals and tourists mingled to sample both Washington and French wines near the fireplace. Fun! We loved our room's Shoji screen doors, high-speed wireless, 42-inch flat screen TV and European soaking tub, added in a massive 2011 renovation. The state-of-the-art coffee maker actually steams the water, allowing for delicious coffee and tea in your robe and slippers, also provided at Pan Pacific. Pan Pacific's pretty, eco-friendly bathrooms feature compact fluorescent lighting, dual flush toilets, low-flow shower heads and deep soaking tubs. * PHYSICAL COMFORTS lure guests. A luxurious, upscale Vida Spa features 18 treatment rooms and every manner of engaging body and mind-nurturing offering. A spacious fitness center tempted us, but we were having too much fun. Still, it's a must for long trips or the frequent business traveler, and several businessmen and women were working out in the 4,200 square foot facility, which is steps away from the lovely spa. Whirlpools and dry saunas are at your fingertips, too. * IF YOU don't want to leave Pan Pacific, you don't have to. The hotel offers 24-hour room service and a fabulous breakfast menu. Our waiter, a native of Thailand, was gracious and accommodating and the The Pan Pacific's spacious rooms are elegant, comfy. salmon omelettes, muffins and eggs Benedict were beautifully presented. The hotel's Seastar Restaurant and Raw Bar are award-winning. * BRING YOUR pup! Hooray for Pan Pacific for devoting part of its splendid space to dog friendly digs. Increasingly, the best hotels are doing this, and we met several friendly pups during our stay. We promised our new friends we'd return with our beloved Yorkies, Nick and Nora. Turns out the restaurant manager has Yorkies, too: hers are Sophie and Annabel! * SPECIAL SPLURGE. If you really want to pamper yourself, Pan Pacific will tailor a wine tasting so you may select wines to accompany your meal (en suite or in the lovely restaurant.) Seastar's acclaimed Chef and owner John Howie, is hands on Seattle's acclaimed Space Needle may be seen from many parts of the hotel. with an international menu that features fresh local ingredients, inspired seafood and meat offerings (the herbed halibut, melt-in-mouth tenderloin and spicy ahi are divine). Howie's global preparations are delivered with precision and flair. YOU MAY also sample tasty sushi, sashimi, ceviche, poke and freshly shucked oysters. Or if you wish to go light, try a tasty club sandwich, crisp and tangy Caesar salad or thick creamy soup. We celebrated Keller's birthday, toasting the Space Needle and our wish to return to this perfect property soon! For rates and reservations, email: ofcourse@panpacific.com or go to www.panpacificseattle www.panpacific.reservation counter.com 2125 Terry Avenue, Seattle, Wash., 98121. 1 800 992-2694. COMING UP: Take a train ride into the wilds of Alaska, on Skagway's White Pass and Yukon Railway. Then join Cookie and Keller to mark "Cruise 100" -- with a tour of the Carnival Miracle bridge escorted by Captain Luca Lazzarino! Oh, yes, and a zillion-calorie cake is enjoyed by all! Plus a tribute to our beloved, adopted "Papa," Grady Martin, who turns 90 on Sept. 26. How did he manage life's ups and downs -- "mostly ups," he says. The piece will post on his birthday eve, Sept. 25. Remember to explore, learn and live, and check out our posts at www.whereiscookie.com

One of two America's Cup racing sloops photographed by Bruce Keller, taken while he was sailing on the famed racing yacht, Stars and Stripes. THRILLS, CHILLS ON CLASSIC BOAT AS GOAL IS REACHED -- SAILOR CAPTURES DREAM, GLORY An intrepid Cookie -- a bit shaky -- accepts a hand getting on the yacht, while crew and other passengers prepare to set sail. For Cookie, it was a terrifying if fascinating journey. Keller was in his element. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WHEN SAN Diego was proud defender of the America's Cup and Dennis Connor became an international hero, a young Bruce Keller had dreams to sail the famous boat. That famous race was in 1987, when Connor and his San Diego crew recaptured the world's most prestigious sailing trophy for the U.S. Aboard Stars and Stripes, Keller took a break from sailing the vessel to photograph the boat heeled over as we sailed into the wind. It has been Keller's dream to sail one of these classic yachts. "I was in love with the ocean as a kid. I loved Sea Scouts and followed all the big races. Plus Dennis Connor is a San Diego native like myself." The race was important and well publicized because Connor was not only a gifted sailor but was famous for his charismatic dealing with challenges on the water. The race took place in February when Keller, a building contractor and designer, was working on a renovation project in a client's house. His building crew tuned into the race on the TV, cheering Connor and his crew on through a series of eliminations, excited as they advanced toward the final series of races. SO WHEN Keller saw an ad for an America's Cup ride, a unique sailing adventure in St. Maarten, he was thrilled. He booked an outing for two aboard Stars and Stripes, one of two authentic America's Cup race boats on the island. The ad promised we'd have "the most unique and immersive experience in the Caribbean, guaranteed to leave you breathless, exhilarated and feeling like a sailing pro!" I ADMIT my knowledge of sailing is minimal. My fear of drowning is enormous. So why would I do this, when I'm afraid to get my head wet in a swimming pool? Sheets in sailing lingo, are used to adjust the sails. I had a smaller orange rope to cling to. Because I was honoring a promise of almost 18 years ago. Keller agreed to take tango lessons and ballroom dancing classes if I'd learn to sail and join him on his waterborne adventures. So it was only fair. And there we were on a cruise ship, docked in Philipsburg, the main town and capital of St. Maarten, on the Dutch side of this lovely island in the Caribbean. It was meant to be, Keller said. AS WE journeyed out on the waters, the crew sensed my apprehension. They gave me an orange rope to grasp, and I used it -- boy did I use it! We'd signed the usual waivers absolving the outfit of responsibility should anything unfortunate occur. But I had no idea I'd be clinging for dear life to my "sissy rope" as Keller called it. It comforted me beyond measure as the boat tilted and jerked into the waves, first one side, then the other. But while I was terrified, Keller was in his element -- beaming, laughing, enjoying the sea spray on his face. My jaw was clenched as I licked my lips and bit my tongue, tasting salt water, promising the gods I'd be a better person if I survived. Stars and Stripes is living out her life in St. Maarten, where she thrills passengers each day. SO WHEN Keller saw an ad for a sailing adventure in St. Maarten, he was thrilled. He booked an outing for two aboard Stars and Stripes, one of two authentic America's Cup race boats on the island. The ad promised we'd have "the most unique and immersive experience in the Caribbean, guaranteed to leave you breathless, exhilarated and feeling like a sailing pro!" I ADMIT my knowledge of sailing is minimal. My fear of drowning is enormous. So why would I do this, when I'm afraid to get my head wet in a swimming pool? Keller and Cookie smile aboard America's Cup. Cookie is relieved to have survived the two-hour outing. Sheets in sailing lingo, are used to adjust the sails. I had a smaller orange rope to cling to. Because I was honoring a promise of almost 18 years ago. Keller agreed to take tango lessons and ballroom dancing classes if I'd learn to sail and join him on his waterborne adventures. So it was only fair. And there we were on a cruise ship, docked in Philipsburg, the main town and capital of St. Maarten, on the Dutch side of this lovely island in the Caribbean. It was meant to be, Keller said. AS WE journeyed out on the waters, the crew sensed my apprehension. They gave me an orange rope to grasp, and I used it -- boy did I use it! We'd signed the usual waivers absolving the outfit of responsibility should anything unfortunate occur. But I had no idea I'd be clinging for dear life to my "sissy rope" as Keller called it. It comforted me beyond measure as the boat tilted and jerked into the waves, first one side, then the other. But while I was terrified, Keller was in his element -- beaming, laughing, enjoying the sea spray on his face. My jaw was clenched as I licked my lips and bit my tongue, tasting salt water, promising the gods I'd be a better person if I survived. THE LEGENDARY 12-meter class race boats are the thoroughbreds of the racing world. The two yachts in St. Maarten are both America’s Cup participants and represent, Keller says, "the culmination of multi-million dollar efforts and years of testing to achieve maximum speed and agility."We were sailing at only seven miles an hour, Keller said, nothing compared to the 50 mph the latest AC70 racing vessels can reach. "In our same breeze, an America's Cup boat could reach 50 miles per hour," Keller said, winking. "We were taking it relatively easy." We were "across the waves" from Zhaveri, one of two racing boats giving tours in St. Maarten. Easy for him to say. I was white knuckled for the entire two-hour adventure. My Dennis Connor aficionado was happy as a clam. He reflected that we were lucky to the experience, because the sailing competition has changed. Publicity surrounding Connor's exploits with America's Cup created international interest and chaperoned in the end of an era when millionaires raced. "But now it's only billionaires competing in the current era of high-tech boats," Keller observed. He laments that the sport has become a hobby of a tiny percentage of sailors, catering only to the extremely rich. AS FOR ME, well, I am happy to have survived the adventure, and am not certain I'll do it again. But wait, could that mean that Keller would no longer join me on the dance floor? In that case, I'll review the situation, put on my big girl sailing pants and dare to join him for another ride into the unknown. "It's good for you to stretch yourself," he says. Meanwhile, I'm booking us another round of rhumba lessons. www.12metre.com www.visitstmaarten.com The iconic Hollywood sign photographed from Griffith Observatory, where we visited Monday just before the fires. UP NEXT: As wildfires destroy homes, landscape and some famous landmarks, we take readers to Los Angeles where we are frequent visitors. We have "before and after" photos of places we love, some of which were just burned. We consider ourselves lucky to have escaped, returning to San Diego undamaged. This column occasionally departs from travel and art features to follow breaking news. So as the wild fires rage, and thousands of homes are destroyed, we present an overview. Many places are closed, including the Getty museums we just toured and activities at the famous Santa Monica Pier closed Thursday. One of our favorite wine bars and restaurants burned, a famous high school has fire damage and we'll feature other sad results of the fires which have caused an estimated $57 billion in loss so far. Take time today to reflect on this beloved and famous place in our country and culture and send good thoughts while remembering to explore, learn and live..

Remembering 'Uncle Cog' for his wry wit, Harry A. Cosgriffe, above right, poses with his siblings, circa 1930.From left, Richard (the writer's father), twins Nancy and Mary, Harry. "Uncle Cog" was the oldest child, but outlived his three siblings. In left photo,Cog with his daughters,"my girls," he called them,Susie, Colleen and Kathleen. attention to detail and devotion to family In left photo, Cog with his daughters, "my girls," he called them, Susie, Colleen and Kathleen. attention to detail and devotion to family Harry A. Cosgriffe, above right, poses with his siblings, circa 1930. From left, Richard Writer's father, twins Nancy and Mary, Harry. "Uncle Cog" was the oldest child, but outlived his three siblings. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" HE'D HAVE loved the weekend. Fun, frolic, feasting, reminiscing, dancing, laughter. And moisture -- both in tears shed as we said "so-long", and in welcome rain on the ranch land. Rick Cosgriffe amused and touched gatherers with his eloquent remembrance of his uncle. Harry Arthur Cosgriffe, "Uncle Cog" to his doting nieces and nephews, was born in 1920 and died in March of this year. His three daughters, my cousins, decided to honor his memory in July, giving friends and family time to reflect on the loss and make travel plans. So the weekend after the Fourth of July unfolded with joy, a gentle wind, music and memories. Relatives and friends from in a dozen states and many Montana towns gathered to pay respect as Uncle's ashes rested in a beautiful urn crafted by a nephew. The Crazy Mountain Inn was a regular dining out option for Uncle Cog and Aunt Peg and some of us stayed here. NIECES PLAYED, sang and my cousin Nancy Ellen delivered a loving eulogy while her sister Diane led a rousing "You Are My Sunshine." My brother Rick compared his Uncle's orderly and well planned life to the white fence surrounding the Two Dot ranch where he spent decades of happy summers. He imagined that Uncle's heart "soared like a hawk" each time he approached the Crazy Mountains from his other home in Pullman, Washington. For his heart was always here in the shadow of the Rockies with the comforting sight of horses, cattle and wheat fields. Uncle Cog and my dad, Richard Edward Cosgriffe, were bookend brothers, with twin girls born between, Mary and Nancy. They shared a love of land and family, engendered during their ranch rearing and Harlowton roots. They both loved to reminisce and each told a good story. They adored the familiar landscape of their youth. THE WEEKEND, for the Richard Cosgriffes, offered an opportunity for our own five-sibling reunion and we gathered for two days at Martinsdale's Crazy Mountain Inn (that's an upcoming post -- great fun). From left, the three offspring of Harry Cosgriffe and Peg Moore: Kathleen, Colleen and Susie, who planned a delightful four-part day of honoring their dad. Uncle's day was a four-part opus on Saturday, July 6. My three cousins -- Kathleen, Susie and Colleen -- greeted mourners and celebrants at Harlowton Cemetery, where Uncle's parents, in-laws, uncle, sisters, brother and a nephew are interred. I offered piano music on a keyboard. Children romped, with respectful restraint, and dogs were welcome, including my twin Yorkies, Nick and Nora. WHEN A GUY reaches his 90s, with many accomplishments and legions of admirers, it's hard to be too sad. We'll miss him, of course, but we had him a long time and for that we are grateful. The Cosgriffes walk to their own Cookie plays keyboard in the wind as mourners arrive. Among her tunes, a favorite of Uncle Cog's, Cole Porter's "Don't Fence Me In." drummer when it comes to staging memorials. We're not big on dour funerals. Our good-byes are emotional occasions with music and poetry. That's our Irish showing, I suppose. MY OWN memories of Uncle Cog shine: There's the time our large family plus a couple friends stopped on a camping trip, at the Big Timber drive-in in the early 1960s. My parents had fashioned the back of a cattle truck into a camper and we looked like own own version of "The Beverly Hillbillies" with blankets and books, lanterns and coolers, fishing gear, guitars, dogs and sleeping bags. Cog and my Aunt Peg happened to be at the drive-in having a late lunch when we made our larger-than-life ice cream stop. Since Cog loved to dance, it was fitting that his memorial ended at his beloved Two Dot Bar with music and action on the dance floor. Uncle walked slowly to our truck, then hoisted himself up to peer over his bi-focals into the back. He smiled broadly, and deadpanned, "I don't suppose there's there room for one more?" HE ONCE told me he did his best thinking on the back of a horse. I replied that my best thoughts came at 30,000 feet in the first class section of an airplane. "Just different modes of transportation," he opined. "I'll bet that's where you come up with your good stories!" ONE WINTRY day a few years ago, my sister Olivia and I were invited by Uncle to the Cosgriffe-Moore ranch, where the dessert part of his memorial day was held. Peg was detained in Washington state and Uncle invited us to sleep at the ranch and sup at the Two-Dot Bar. "It's not a salad kind of place," he offered. "Good burgers. That's what to order." The Fire Hall was the place for the feast following the cemetery rituals, with more tributes here by a brother-in-law and grandson, and music: a group sing of "When Irish Eyes Are Smiling." UNCLE WAS unruffled when we arrived with my ancient sheepdog, Smedley, and a rescue mutt, Max. But, he said, sadly, "I'm afraid they will have to stay in the garage. House rules." As dusk came, snow fell and the temperature dropped, Uncle disappeared into the basement with an old horse blanket under his arm. "I made a bed for Smedley and Max," he said, returning. "But you must swear never to tell Peg that a large wet dog and his equally moist little friend spent the night in this house!" With both Cog and Peg gone now -- and Smedley and Maxwell long in their own doggie urns -- I can tell this sweet story. ANOTHER TIME, Uncle wrote me asking how much truth poetry should have. He had been pondering a poem I wrote, inspired by my memory of a Guests were encouraged to write a memory and sign in. 1954 visit to my great Aunt Maud's home in White Sulphur Springs. He wondered how much was "fact" and how much was imagination. This interesting question launched a continuing discussion about poetry versus reporting, the liberties poetry can and should take, that its "truth" comes from its evocative nature, from its expression of feelings. That details and ideas can craft a larger "truth" through compelling style, language and rhythm. The Cosgriffe-Moore home welcomed family and friends at the memorial. GOOD REPORTING, I wrote Uncle, comes from factual ordering of events and circumstances. They're different literary beasts. He wrote me back: "A Plus on your explanation, dear niece. You have written a fine poem. Let the record show you are also a good reporter. I enjoyed your explanation on the differences between the two forms." HOW I WISH we'd been able to visit our ancestral homes in Ireland together. I've felt the family influence in my trips there and know Uncle reveled in touring A scenic view of Jordan, where both the writer and her Uncle Cog spent time, but never together. the linen mill in northern Ireland where his grandfather Arthur worked. I'd have loved for us to experience the wonders of the Middle East together. Uncle lived for several years in Jordan, where he was praised for his inventive agricultural contributions. I've visited a half-dozen times, recently looking down upon Jordan from a lovely vantage point with Israeli friends. Cousins help cut and serve the "Uncle Cog" memorial cakes. I know Uncle was proud that so many of us have become teachers, writers, counselors, communicators, curious global citizens. He earned his doctorate in adult education at University of Chicago and like many others in the family, had a passionate commitment to education and travel. The Cosgriffe brothers, Harry and Richard; the twins, Mary, seated left, and Nancy, right and their dad Harry Cosgriffe, center, in the 1950s. HE MADE many friends in Jordan and I remember one story of a days-long wedding at which he was an honored guest. A niece, Misha, places a white rose with the urn. My last note from Uncle came after I wrote daddy's obituary for several newspapers. I erroneously listed his only brother's residences as Pullman, Wash., (correct) and Ryegate (wrong -- it's Two Dot and I know better.) Correcting me with his characteristic diplomacy, Uncle Cog pointed out the mistake then said, "It was a wonderful obituary. I've always been proud of you. And I did date lots of Ryegate girls, so I'll bet that's what you were thinking about." AS HIS memorial day wound down, with tributes and toasts, dining, beer, wine, dancing, rain and elaborate Cowboy hats were in vogue at the Two Dot Bar dance. cakes and storytelling, I thought of the roses loved ones had placed on the urn, each one saying, perhaps, some last word of thanks, maybe even deadpanning a one-liner. My kindly, smart Uncle -- who made a bed for two cold, wet dogs -- had a good heart and sharp mind. I thanked him for that. Dear Uncle, I kept the dog secret for years. But it's such a good story, it just had to be told. COMING UP: Ever think about how much of our language comes from sailing? It's true: from ship shape to lowering the boom. A look at the many phrases we use whose roots are in sailing and boats. So many words from our language derive from our love of boats and the sea, here a rainbow framed harbor in Lisbon, Portugal. And our family stages a third birthday party for our delightful Christena, born with Down Syndrome. We examine the joys and challenges of raising a handicapped child, with my brother, a single dad, and a large and loving family and friends support system. And traveling light at Martinsdale's Crazy Mountain Inn. Remember to explore, learn and live. Tune us in at: whereiscookie.com

Mary Tyler Moore's show featured an independent, confident, funny woman. GROUNDBREAKING TV SERIES CHANGED THE WORLD'S TAKE ON CAREER WOMEN STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS courtesy Larry Mayer, Billings Gazette and CBS THE DEATH this week of Mary Tyler Moore brought a flood of bittersweet memories of the early 1970s when I was establishing my career as a journalist. While Moore's fictional Mary Richards was fighting for the modern woman, I was a young reporter in Montana, one of many female journalists all over America doing the same thing. Moore's friends and colleagues were painted as real humans. The show, which Moore also produced, featured a single woman forging a career in a male dominated profession. I was doing that in The Billings Gazette newsroom, where I signed on as a college freshman in 1968. My supervisor, Kathryn Wright, was the Gazette's first female reporter when hired  in 1942, "to cover the cops while the men went off to war," she explained. Mary Tyler Moore in her associate producer role in a Minneapolis newsroom. My first job was as "Society Editor,"  a title that itself reflects the times.  Women were largely perceived as housewives. If they worked, it was part-time, out of boredom, for pin money or to augment "the man's" salary. They might volunteer at the symphony or theater, planning fundraisers or galas. But the belief was that women were mostly interested in "society," sipping sherry, playing tennis, lunching with the girls at the country club, maybe venturing to take a secretarial post. (Not that there's anything wrong with that, as Seinfeld would say.) Click here: more on MTM, favorite performers I WANTED MORE  -- as millions of my peers did worldwide. I lobbied for changing the "society" title to "lifestyle." That happened. I aced a night police reporter job, so I could finish my degree by day, and covered major beats including education, city hall and county. By the late 1970s, I was writing film and theater reviews, and editing the arts and travel section. Women in the newsroom were increasing. The show was remarkable -- fine writing, characters who were interesting, multi-dimensional.  Many of the MTM Show writers were women. Journalism has always attracted smart, determined women, from photographer Margaret Bourke White and daring reporter Nellie Bly to Helen Thomas, Gloria Steinem, Nora Ephron, Barbara Walters, Molly Ivins, Christiane Amanpour, Diane Sawyer, Jane Pauley and Gwen Ifill, who broke both race and gender barriers on PBS. They juggled personal lives, sacrificed, demanded attention and equality. My beloved mentor cautioned, "You have to work twice as hard, look twice as good, keep trim, behave yourself, watch your language." Men, she believed, could come to work late with grease on their ties, drink like fish, cuss like sailors, turn bald and fat and be told they looked "distinguished." MARY WAS  single, recently out of a failed Christene Meyers, 1972, in the hairstyle of the day Mary Tyler Moore's Mary Richards character in 1977, nearing the end of the show's smash hit run. relationship. I was single the first part of my long career with Lee Newspapers. My byline for nearly three years was Chris Cosgriffe. I liked its Gaelic ring and alliteration. I was beginning to get national attention.  So when I married Bruce Meyers in 1970, we decided I would keep my maiden name and byline. That was fine with Bruce. He was a modern man. I told the newspaper of my decision. Phyllis, Mary and Rhoda in a studio shot, early 1970s. The show influenced fashion as well as social attitude. Christene enroute to cover the Miss America pageant in 1968. But to my dismay, the managing editor changed my byline. When we returned from our honeymoon in the South Pacific, I had become Chris Meyers. I could have taken them on, but that would have been awkward. I picked my battles in those early days of NOW and the Equal Rights Amendment. I had bigger fish to fry. Mary Tyler Moore got her break as Laura Petrie on "The Dick Van Dyke Show." It laid the groundwork for MTM's character, Mary Richards.    MOORE'S CHARACTER,  dress and attitude were way ahead of her times.  She called "Mr. Grant" on his chauvinism and challenged him for a raise when she discovered her salary was less than her predecessor's. "Why is that, Mr. Grant?" she asked. "Because he was a man," the Ed Asner character replied. 'It has nothing to do with your work." My "Mr. Grant" was Doc Bowler, a genial, sharp, old-school newsman who patrolled the newsroom like a general inspecting his troops.  Bowler's second in command was George, in charge of evaluations and pay raises. I approached him after discovering two of my male colleagues earned more than I did -- yet I'd been in the newsroom longer and received stellar evaluations. George took a puff of his pipe (everyone smoked in those days) and asked: "Your husband makes a good salary, doesn't he?" I was dismayed. What did that have to do with anything. "He's an assistant professor," George continued, "and you don't have children." he said. "So you're doing just fine." Mary Tyler Moore found true love in her third marriage to Dr. Robert Levine. Christene with her late husband, Bruce Meyers. He passed in 1992. Christene with Bruce Keller, her partner since 2007. I eventually got the raise. I had to appeal to Doc Bowler and write a letter outlining my reasons for the request.  When I speak to female college students today, they are amazed at the pay discrepancy and byline change. "That's outrageous," said one young 20-something recently. "What did you do?" I WORKED  for change, as Mary's fictional character and millions of other real live women did. Her character gave us courage, confirming that we were on the right track. Moore's show was among the first to address birth control, homosexuality, sexuality.  When Bruce and I decided to marry, we merged households.  That was highly frowned upon by my bosses, whom I reassured that we were planning to marry. "Good," said one, "but make it soon. People are talking." So much is acceptable now that was verboten then: not taking the man's name, equal pay for equal work, living together before marriage -- or even if marriage isn't planned. We were light years from same-sex acceptance and the notion of pregnancy outside of marriage. Christene, 2015 Mary Tyler Moore,  2008. MY COLLEAGUES  at the Montana newspaper were a western version of the colorful denizens of Mary's newsroom -- the photographer whose specialty was provocative pretty-women shots, the eccentric columnist who liked a nip on his rounds, the union printer who asked me after three years of marriage why "there's no bun in the oven." Again, dismay. "You need one kid, to take care of you when you're old," offered Chuck. Our sports editor, Norm, a fine writer and now a famous Las Vegas columnist, was my pal, my Murray. Later, after Norm left, Roger, another brilliant writer, became my newsroom buddy. We were all rebels, hard-working and irreverent. We didn't have anyone as blatantly sexy as Sue Ann Niven but there was plenty of suggestion and innuendo. I dealt with inappropriate touching (my rear was pinched dozens of times), boob squeezers, and sources who offered information in return for sex. Now, they'd be sued, fired or at the very least reprimanded. Mary Tyler Moore's signature hat in the air. WE'RE WISER  for having known sassy Mary Richards and her savvy creator, Mary Tyler Moore. When I interviewed Moore in 1980, for "Ordinary People," she said her two hit TV shows ("The Dick Van Dyke Show" and MTM) paralleled her life. "I am  those women," she laughed. "If those characters felt real to others, it's because they are so very real to me." She also confessed to wanting to be a professional dancer (she was wonderful.) "Behind that successful actor is a failed dancer," she told me. MY PERSONAL  life paralleled MTM's. She had three relationships, her last with a much loved younger man. She suffered great personal loss and forged onward. She kept her humor and grace, though she didn't become what she originally thought she'd be. (As a kid, I wanted to be a conductor.) She kept her head high, integrity intact. She never stopped laughing or giving, producing more TV shows, inspiring others. Hat's high in the air for you, Mary. You made it, after all. Bruce Keller (and Cookie, at the camera this time) packed up recently for a week in Malaga. They'll tell why it's become a favorite city.  UP NEXT : We've returned to a favorite port of southern Europe, lovely Malaga, an inviting city on southern Spain’s Costa del Sol. Instead of a glamorous high-rise resorts, we chose a splendid parador, high above the yellow-sand beaches and next to a Moorish citadel which gave our delightful Parador Gibralfaro its name. Come with us to the Alcazaba -- and more, remembering to explore, learn and live and follow us Fridays when we post for the weekend.