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Morro Rock stands imposingly and majestically in the waters, as it has for centuries, welcoming tourists and modern-day explorers. The rock is beloved by locals for its lore and ancient history. A regal seagull checks out the surf near Morro Rock . STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER AN ANCIENT landmark, revered by native people and photographed by tourists, greets curious visitors and charms locals in Morro Bay, Calif. Explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo named the towering 476-foot rock known by sailors as an imposing navigational aid. It stands sentinel above the entrance to Morro Bay.  Cabrillo's "discovery" was made during his voyage up the California coast in 1542 --50 years after Columbus made his famous voyage to the new world on the other side of the country. Cookie and Keller enjoy a bay stroll near sunset. THOUSANDS  of years before, native  people fished the rich coastal waters and traversed the land of long-extinct volcanoes which formed the historic landmark. Morro Rock goes back 23 million years. The "Gibraltar of the Pacific," is the last peak of the Nine Sisters, which extend from San Luis Obispo to Morro Bay. The rock was mined until 1963.Still today, there's a feeling of age and mystery about the rock's place on the beautiful bay, shrouded in fog as it often is and looking like a movie backdrop. ONE CAN  picture long-ago Spanish galleons, when commerce relied on the sea for transport. Farmers came to work the land, and miners worked the hills and caves.  Morro Rock is an imposing sight from the hotel balcony. Located as it is midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, Morro Bay is a stopping off place for us and many others on our drives up the coast from San Diego. California's renowned Pacific Coastal Highway runs right through the center of this quietly satisfying little beach town. Everything seems to center around the beach, where high school students work out and can easily walk to or from their school. Morro Bay is a fishing town. Dozens of privately owned boats on hitches line residential streets and you can't go wrong ordering seafood at the dozen or so popular restaurants. Morro Bay is a fishing and tourist town. The seafood is abundant and delicious everywhere. WE GOT GREAT tips from   our hotel check-in clerk at Ascot Suites, a charming, centrally located hotel with an abundance of English country art.   We took our happy hour drinks to the rooftop sundeck with a beautiful vista of the bay and rock.  We lingered to enjoy a perfect sunset with gorgeous shirt sleeves weather in late October.  Locals say the pleasant temperatures last through the holidays. Thousands of people visit Morro Bay each year so there are over a dozen hotels, plenty of B&Bs, and assorted other rentals -- from simple and rustic to plush and expensive. After a day of play on the bay, Bruce Keller enjoys sunset. FOR A TOWN of only 11,000 there is a surprising amount of activity and entertainment.   We happened upon live music on the bay -- and asked about the town's other landmark: three large smokestacks.  They're from an old power plant and can be seen from almost everywhere in town. We nature lovers delighted in the wildlife, too. We saw harbor seals, sea lions, sea otters, snowy plovers and peregrine falcons which nest on Morro Rock. More info: morrochamber.org ; ascotsuites.com          Gran Olive's filled date and mincemeat cookies. We'll share her recipe next week. Please "tune in." UP NEXT : A non-baker finds courage to restore a family tradition: making Christmas cookies, grandmother's recipe no less.  After a day of kitchen duty for Cookie, Keller is munching his way through the holidays with the results. We share a favorite family recipe -- my grandmother's delicious date and mincemeat filled cookies. We also travel the globe in search of foodie fun to celebrate the holidays in style with other cultures. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays for a fresh look at family, travel, cruising, nature, the arts and more. Please share the link and tell your friends: www.whereiscookie.com

Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller stroll the waterfront in Key West, readying to sail.  U.S. TRAVELERS ARE LUCKY TO HAVE THE LIVELY YET LAID BACK FLORIDA KEYS IN OUR BACK YARD STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The Conch Train is a well loved travel option downtown. WHEN ONE yearns for balmy breezes, fun food and the soothing sound of the sea, it's not necessary to book a ticket to Fiji, the Canaries or French Polynesia. Those are beautiful places, but with COVID, and all the time, angst and red tape necessary to enjoy foreign travel, U.S. citizens can't do better than Key West, Florida. OUR COUNTRY'S  southernmost subtropical paradise is a unique blend of all that we seasoned travelers yearn for: perfect climate, the beauty of nature on both land and sea, flowers galore, cultural diversity, history, and a romantic appeal that one usually has to go to another continent to enjoy. Cookie shows her ticket to board Old Town Trolley. One of its stops is Hampton Inn near the water. ALL OF THAT MAKES Key West attractive to us, with one huge additional advantage.  We're still in the good old U.S., and don't have to fill out entry forms and paperwork to experience the new. While many restaurants and hotels now ask for proof of vaccination, it's much easier to head for south Florida than it is to cross a sea and risk getting detained or quarantined on foreign soil. So the appeal of Key West is enormous. Coffee is a huge industry in Key West, and you'll find coffee stores as well as cafes serving the  sweet, strong and pungent Cuban coffee.  There's the exotic amenities one looks for in foreign travel: interesting architecture, new food options, history with an opportunity to learn, top hotels, comforting familiar language and enlightening nature experiences. There's also a fine butterfly conservatory and world-famous museums, including Mel Fisher's fascinating one, where one views artfully curated treasures found on the shipwrecked Atocha. If you want to see the sights without the expense of renting a car, the wonderful Old Town Trolley offers is a delightful way to get around with access to nearly everything of interest. Old town Trolley gives bird's eye views of homes, museums . It picked us up at our Hampton Inn to transit famous Key West streets and squares, popular local places and tourist attractions ranging from the fine Key West Aquarium, Key West Lighthouse, the shops and restaurants of Mallory Square and other historical and entertaining places.   Sunset sails are a popular Key West option. Close-up of a cigar poster, touting the stogie grown from Cuban seeds, but on other Latin American soils . Salvaged from the Spanish ship, Atocha, pottery in the fine Mel Fisher Museum. Key West's history is filled with drama and the amiable, well informed trolley guides share the history with colorful anecdotes, engaging stories and humorous asides. You'll see the coffee shop where President Harry Truman ditched the secret service at his Florida White House to share a morning cuppa with Florida friends. You'll see key lime pie adverts and get tips on the best places. You'll stop near Ernest Hemingway's lovely home and see how the writer lived and worked -- with his adored six-toed cats.  A wonderful museum is housed in a historic building run by the non-profit Key West Art and Historical Society. This handsome rooster  and all chickens are  protected in Key West. OTHER TOWNS in the U.S. -- including our own San Diego -- have successfully introduced Old Town Trolley.  The entertaining trolley operation also runs in Savannah, Washington D.C., St. Augustine, Boston and Nashville.  Key West is an artistic town, with galleries and museums showcasing everything from ship- wreck treasures to carvings and paintings. Cigar making was once a huge industry in Key West and Island Cigar Company still sells them. Key West has a rich cigar history, but most stogies in the Keys are now made in other parts of Latin America with tobacco grown from Cuban seeds. Watersports abound in Key West, with sunset sails, dolphin and snorkel watching, eco and paddleboard tours and many other options, including a wonderful rare opportunity to sail on General George Patton's custom made schooner "When and If," which he designed and hoped to sail with his wife around the world "when and if" World War II ended. Sadly, Patton died in 1945 and didn't accomplish his world sailing tour.  He did sail it up and down the East Coast, and Chesapeake Bay, and down into Key West, according to biographers. (More about this lovely boat later.) Among many historic buildings, this one is the original office of Pan American World Airways. It is now First Flight, a brewery and restaurant. For more info:  https://fla-keys.com/key-west/ www.hilton.com/en/hotels/eywkkhx-hampton-key-west/ www.historictours.com www.keywestchamber.org   https://www.trolleytours.com/key-west www.furycat.com www.keywestbutterfly.com www.sunsetsailkeywest.com   www.kwahs.org/museums/custom-house/visit www.sunsetwatersportskeywest.com   The Hemingway Home and Museum showcases the author's literary memorabilia, awards, collectibles, portraits, history of his several wives and his unusual six-toed cat progeny.  UP NEXT: Our visit to Key West and the Florida Keys continues with a look at two famous fellows who loved the place.  Famed author Ernest Hemingway lived many years in Key West, and President Harry S. Truman set up a White House in this charming Florida town.  Both made friends with the locals and enjoyed the leisurely, warm and inviting life the climate and temperament offer. Descendants of Hemingway's famed six-toed cats  roam the place as privileged, pampered pets. Truman's beloved vacation home gives insight into why he loved Key West.  Both homes are interesting museums. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at travel, nature, family, the arts: www.whereiscookie.com

Enchanted families have the rare experience of being up close and personal with dolphins in Hilton Waikoloa Village's acclaimed Dolphin Quest program. Participants may help feed the mammals, swim with them, watch them play and bond with them in unique ways. GETTING UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH ONE OF NATURE'S STARS OF THE SEA -- ENJOY DOLPHINS FROM A BOAT OR 'IN PERSON' WITH A SWIM STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Dolphins are very intelligent and bond with the highly skilled trainers, who know each one by name and develop close relationships. IF YOU YEARN to connect with another species, and have watched in wonder the joyful antics of dolphins, there's no better place to bond with these playful and intelligent creatures than Hilton Waikoloa Village's Dolphin Quest. We watched these graceful and friendly mammals recently with a few dozen other hotel guests during their regular morning play time near the resort complex's stylish Makai Tower. WHAT A THRILL .  What a treat.  Their eyes seem to express their love of humans, and their faces actually seem to smile as families gather on the shore of the lagoon to watch, then walk into the waters and commune for a thrilling half hour. As preparation, we did some homework on Dolphin Quest, which operates in Bermuda, Oahu and on The Big Island.  It was at that operation on the Kona Coast where we experienced the dolphin magic during a week-long stay. Skilled trainers work with the dolphins each day; their care is meticulous.   THE PROGRAM was developed by compassionate veterinarians specializing in marine mammals, and its founding premise is all about connecting humans with these fascinating, intelligent creatures. A primary goal is to educate the next generation to appreciate and nurture them.  There are other dolphin experiences in the world, but this one gets top reviews for its focus on quality animal care and education.  Training programs ensure that staff are committed to loving care of the animals and the program's mission: to enrich the lives of these wonderful dolphins and foster respect and appreciation for marine life. We watched on the lawn as families gathered for the experience. It's expensive -- but every single person we chatted with after the session was thrilled.  "Once in a life time," said one beaming grandmother. She treated her daughter, son-in-law and three kids and said "It's the best money I ever spent. Absolutely worth every penny!" While parents, grandparents, aunties and uncles bring their little ones into the water, photographers wade in, too. For the money, a 45-minute experience includes a briefing session, then a half-hour with the dolphins, to touch, play and perhaps help with feeding. The group is limited to six, so you're able to join another small family if you are only two or three, or you can book the private six-maximum experience.  Individual tickets start at $269 for the 45-minute session (there's a pre-dolphin  briefing then a half-hour with them.) There's a 30-minute possibility starting at $230, for kids only, highly supervised by the well trained and congenial staff. We watched hosting parents, grandparents and aunties take photos from the side lines, delighting in watching their progeny so excited in the water. WE WERE SO  captivated by the experience that we watched it part of each day for a week, from our ringside balcony seats in Makai, at Hilton Waikoloa Village.  The lush landscape of blooming plumeria, orchids, bougainvillea and palms makes a beautiful backdrop for the dolphin experience.      Twice a week, early morning, before the Dolphin Quest experience begins, trainers work with the beautiful mammals, while guests at Hilton Waikoloa Village enjoy.  ANOTHER HAPPY person, father of a young daughter, said it was "an extraordinary bonding experience -- for all of us:  for me with my kid, for each of us with the dolphins.  It was quite magical." Photographers join the group at a respectful distance, recording the experience for souvenir photos, which are an additional cost. Special needs children and adults with disabilities are also happily accommodated on an individual basis.  The staff goes out of its way to tailor each experience, so everyone is happy and gets what he or she is looking for. Extraordinary customer service and great awareness of COVID protocol, hygiene and safety have made the program a rollicking success. If one thinks about the benefits of the time with these graceful, affectionate creatures, it's a worthy investment of time and money. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers saw dolphins with a Body Glove cruise and swam with them at Hilton's Waikoloa Village. The Big Island offers dolphin fun! And can one really put a price on something that accomplishes so much in so little time? The smiles tell it all.  On both human and dolphin! ***  To enjoy Kailua-Kona's natural wonders from the sea, consider Body Glove Hawaii. The excellent operation offers fabulous outings -- snorkel and sea life sightings -- and a fun, educational dinner cruise to the Captain Cook Monument. Fine food, cocktails and a crash course in the island's colorful history. We took our family of six, saw dolphins and whales. 12 thumbs up!   bodyglovehawaii.com To swim with dolphins: dolphinquest.com/health/   (808) 987-3434. reservations@dolphinquest.com ; Hilton Waikoloa Village is at 425 Waikoloa Beach Drive, Waikoloa, HI 96738   Keller and Cookie, ready for take-off, for a bird's eye view of Kauai, here by Air Ventures' air van at the Lihue Airport . UP NEXT: Hawaii's magic is timeless -- we've proven that in over a half-century of visits. This trip takes us first to quiet, lush Kauai, "the garden isle," known for its verdant landscapes, pleasant people and tranquil surroundings. And there's nothing like taking it all in by air. We head for the Lihue Airport to hop aboard a state of the art air van, with Air Ventures Hawaii. What a thrill to see the beauty of this lovely island from on high. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly: www.whereiscookie.com

Hawaii's fourth largest island, Kauai, is captured from high above the coast in an Air Ventures plane. SMALL PLANE, GREAT NARRATIVE WITH BIRD'S EYE VIEWS OF GARDEN ISLE STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER The "Garden Isle" of Kauai as photographed from an Air Ventures Airvan, with large windows and fabulous views. SOARING HIGH  above the land where the musical "South Pacific" was filmed, we could feel the "sunlight on the sand, moonlight on the sea." The mangoes and bananas the sailors in the movie sang about were out of sight.  It had rained earlier in the day, giving a gleaming patina to the hills.  The sun flirted with us -- muted part of the time, with rainbows surrounding us.  But it was a gloriously sunny day for a few treasured moments.   WE WERE  truly "somewhere over the rainbow" as we flew high above the lushest of the Hawaiian chain, the "Garden Island" of Kauai. The nurses help Mitzi Gaynor "Wash That Man Right Out of My Hair" on Lumaha'i Beach. - -photo courtesy 20th Century Fox We signed up for one of this verdant island's most popular air tours. There are several, but our choice was "The Big Kahuna," a delightful hour soaring above the clouds, wrapped in the splendor of some of the world's most spectacular scenery.    In more than 50 visits to Hawaii -- and a dozen plane and helicopter tours -- we've found the Garden Island to have the most breathtaking landscape of the chain.  We transited above the subtle curves of Waimea Canyon, admired the majestic Napali Coast -- which we've viewed from the ocean -- and sighed above Lumaha'i Beach, humming tunes from that  favorite movie, "South Pacific." ("What ain't we got? We ain't got dames!") Bruce Keller and captain Nate give thumbs up for the spacious GA-8 Airvan which offers spectacular views. Hawaii's fourth largest island -- yes, the "Garden Island," -- earns its moniker. The oldest and northernmost island in the Hawaiian chain is draped in emerald valleys, sharp mountain spires and jagged cliffs, aged by time and the elements. We saw it all. And reveled in the views from above. OUR PILOT Nate gave us a nicely narrated bird’s eye view of the spectacular landscape, with interesting anecdotes. (We didn't know Kauai is the only island not conquered by King Kamehameha as he tried to unite all the Hawaiian Islands.) -     Keller and Cookie take a pose before boarding. We had seen the entire island many times by land, so it was fun to see it from the air: the Menehune Fish Pond, the Eucalyptus Tunnel of Trees, Waita Reservoir (the largest reservoir on Kauai), Captain Cook’s Landing in Waimea Town, and the fabled Waimea Canyon. Air Ventures planes offer stunning views, and here, one plane can spot another above the sea. WE WERE humming "Bali Ha'i" as we flew above the majestic Napali coastline and back over Lumaha'i Beach.  (Bloody Mary was almost visible!) Then on to Hanalei Valley, with its silvery, cascading waterfalls, and Kilauea Lighthouse with one of the world's largest frigate bird sanctuaries.   Mile after mile of stunning coastline and beaches offered visual treats galore.  We were sad when we quietly and safely landed, ending a spectacular time. More about this Air Ventures Hawaii, and its options for an exciting view of a beautiful island: kauaiairtour.com Patrick Harry Cosgriffe and his beloved daughter, Christene, born with Down Syndrome and now left without a father. UP NEXT: The sudden death of my baby brother Patrick has rendered me in an depressing state of inertia.  I am unable to write anything unrelated to him and our family, so I yield to this suffocating state. The next piece will focus on our beloved Patrick and my namesake, Christena, a Down Syndrome child. I'll use this period of intense grief to write about him and our family's traumas, love, sorrow and considerations for the future of his only child.   Thank you for the indulgence. Please remember Patrick, say prayers for Christena's future and continue to love, explore, learn and live. Catch us weekly for a fresh twist on art, music, history, travel, culture, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

This larger-than-life-size chariot with driver is among 1,800 stunning artworks at Hilton Waikoloa Village. The resort acquired a multi-million dollar collection of fascinating multi-media artwork. MAGIC OF PACIFIC OCEAN LIFE INSPIRES UNIQUE HOTEL ART COLLECTION STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER A classic selection of art pieces includes a variety of oars and weapons. Here, Bruce Keller admires them. A RESORT WITH its own museum. That's an apt description of Hilton Waikoloa Village, where a unique art collection awaits. We found the 1,800 pieces of the hotel's "Museum Walkway" so enticing that we spent an hour of each of our days there discovering and appreciating it. Like many of our readers, we're museum aficionados, true devotees, having toured many of the world's great art houses --  from Russia's Hermitage to New York City's Metropolitan Museum of Art, Madrid's Prado, London's National Gallery, the Louvre in Paris,  Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum, and more. A horse greets visitors by the ice machine on this floor of the Makai Tower. Makai is a direction, meaning towards the sea. But even in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Jakarta and Singapore, we had never experienced such an immersive look at Asian, Western and Oceanic cultures. While the emphasis is on Asia and the Pacific, there's a nod to classical European art in bronzes, sculpture and elegant fountains. We've not seen a more artful and beautifully displayed collection anywhere in our travels. IT HELPS TO have a background of palm trees, waterfalls, orchids, perfectly manicured hedges, ponds and pretty buildings. All that and more form an enhancing backdrop for this splendid collection. Island batik and silk artworks are elegantly hung throughout the resort complex. We discovered this eye-popping art bonanza during a brief visit a few years ago and vowed to return to give it more  Homage to a brother time.  The collection includes more than 1,800 unique pieces with emphasis on celebrating the cultural heritage of the Pacific Island life. In so doing, it encourages an appreciation of all the world's great art, helping tourists gain specific insight into life in the islands whose people and culture settled in Hawaii. Like great museums, the pieces are thoughtfully placed in separate areas.  Four divisions are skillfully woven together so that one gets a cohesive experience. THE "MUSEUM WALKWAY''   demands a good three or four hours to enjoy it all.  We divided our "tour" over several days. We spent an hour with the Oceanic Art, which features art and artifacts from the Oceanic Region: Polynesia and Melanesia. It was right out the door of our Makai Tower, beginning near a modern train that navigates the resort from the main lobby. We also enjoy stays at Palace and Ocean Towers, all with art to admire. The Asian and Southeast Asian Art tour covers works from China, Thailand, Burma and Indonesia, plus a variety of Hawaiian galleries. Again, we spent nearly an hour beginning at the lobby and walking toward Palace Tower, another building in the center of the 62-acre resort.  Located as it is on the renowned Kohala Coast, this gorgeous playground -- Hilton Waikoloa Village -- is more an elegant theme park than a hotel.    Keller and Cookie near Palace Tower, with its own Italian inspired fountain. EAST MEETS West in another portion of the exhibition with art from Asia, Japan, Polynesia and Europe. Again, 45 minutes to an hour to fully appreciate the collection between Palace Tower and Ocean Tower. Finally, the "Side Trips" tour includes artwork found along the Ocean Walkway along such stopping places as Buddha Point. A grand staircase and entrances to the resorts restaurants are also tastefully accented with artwork -- bronzes, paintings, sculpture, wall hangings, musical instruments, oars, clothing.   EVERYTHING  in the Makai Tower, the tower with prime beachfront, is designed to incorporate the elements of island life.  Dark lava rock tile floors, cheery coral bathroom counters, with wall paper to mimic tapa -- the delicately designed Hawaiian paper bark cloth. Musical instruments and ceremonial drums are on view in the resort's slate walkways. A stroll from Ocean Tower to the lobby is a pleasant 10 minutes, and offers beautiful art. The train is an option and a boat winds leisurely through the canals past sculptures.  The showpiece of all the hotels within the complex is Makai Tower. Here Polynesian heritage and Hawaiian life are artfully honored. We in turn were honored to be part of this magnificent art -- if only for a few treasured days. www.hilton.com/en/hotels/koaotgv-hilton-grand-vacations-club-ocean-tower-waikoloa-village/ www.hiltongrandvacations.com   "One lion to another."  Christene "Cookie" Meyers, a Leo on the astrological chart, stopped each day to admire a lion inspired by Indonesian folklore.                                                          UP NEXT: If you've not experienced the wonders of the "Big Island," as the island of Hawaii is known, you're in for a treat. We'll take you there to view two of the world's most active volcanoes. You'll soon see why tourists, scientists and students have been making it a research, holiday and vacation stop for decades. Both Kilauea and Mauna Loa are located on the island, largest in the Hawaiian chain, thus its moniker.  Both volcanoes are on the Big Island and well worth investigating.  Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at nature, family, travel, the arts and more: www.whereiscookie.com On the volcano trail, Keller and Cookie pose for a selfie by the barren landscape and steam of Hawaii's active volcanoes. Visitors enjoy changing wonders each day. Since the Park service began keeping records in the 19th century, eruptions irregularly occur. frequently at Mauna Loa and Kilauea .

On a blustery but sunny day at Hawaii's Kilauea Volcano, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie"   Meyers take a selfie against the eerie but beautiful landscape of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.  Volcanoes formed the landscape and are still active. PELE'S POWERS, TECTONIC SHIFTS BRING  KILAUEA, MAUNALOA TO MODERN DAY TOURISTS The Kilauea Volcano in all its glory.  photo courtesy Hawaii Volcanoes National Park STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER HAWAII'S ACTIVE  volcanoes are constantly causing a stir on The Big Island, where locals are ready for steam, smoke and fire at any time.   Volcano and earthquake hazards occur regularly, so that is always on the mind of the people. Tourists -- including the two of us travel writers and photographers -- make it a point to have a look at these wonders of nature whenever we're in the area. The island's jet-black lava fields, white sand and snowy mountains make a photographer's dream, with hiking trails across a lunar-like landscape, and viewpoints to show it all off. Pele, goddess of volcanoes and fire, is the star of a spectacular  sound and light show at Smith Family Garden Luau. SINCE THE Hawaiian Islands were born of lava flows, it's not surprising that volcanoes are still part of the landscape.  They have long been part of the islands' lore as well. The native Hawaiians revere Pele, goddess of fire and volcanoes, and honor her in sound and light shows across the islands.  The most spectacular one is fittingly on  The Big Island,  where two of the world's most active volcanoes are found. In a dramatic musical story Pele comes alive as the volcano puts on a show at Smith Family Garden Luau.  The creation of the island is dramatically told.   So whether one believes in pure science, or the revered Pele myth, plate tectonics met the goddess with fire, light and dramatic sound effects. In the show, Pele rises above the mountains to create one of the world's most majestic landscapes.   SINCE KILAUEA and Maunaloa volcanoes are both found here, there are national parks to give visitors the updated story and a chance to survey the ever changing landscape. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is about an hour from Hilo on the east side of the island, or two and one-half hours from Hilton Waikoloa Village on the western side of the island. Looking much like forest fire damage, its possible you might see the volcano burn .    Maunaloa last erupted at its summit, in March of 1984. A series of fissures subsequently opened along the Northeast Rift Zone, feeding lava flows that came to within 17 km (11 miles) of Hilo Bay in 5 days. The eruption ended on April 15. Kilauea's last eruption was 1983 with others occurring sporadically into 2018. That last major eruption in 2018 destroyed more than 700 homes and displaced thousands of residents.  Other volcanoes on Hawaii Island include: Maunakea, Hualalai, and Kohala. Our homework revealed that between 1912 and 2012, there were nearly 50 Kīlauea eruptions and 12 Mauna Loa eruptions.Park officials say the summit eruption of Kīlauea Volcano, within Halemaʻumaʻu crater, has continued with minor fluctuations in lava output. Its active lava lake was estimated to be 89 meters (292 feet) when lava emerged on Sept. 29, 2021, not that long ago. Informative guides give lively, scientific information on the volcanic action at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. IT IS NEVER possible to predict the exact date and time of an eruption. Our naturalist guide told us, "Because these are active volcanoes, we can't say when they might blow again." Geophysical measurements indicate that Maunaloa's magma storage system has been recharging since the 1984 eruption. Since 2019, there have been signs of elevated unrest, but the next Maunaloa eruption doesn't appear imminent, our guide added.Hawaii has many remarkable features, including that Maunaloa is the largest active volcano on Earth. She covers an impressive half of the island, rising to 4,170 meters (13,681 feet) above sea level. Her long submarine flanks descend 5 km (3 miles) below sea level to the ocean floor. MAUNALOA, like Kiluea, has a summit caldera and two active rift zones extending from its summit. Eruptions vary from short- to long-lived, and occur at the summit, or radial vents on her north and western flanks. Mauna Loa eruptions can begin with little warning, producing intense lava flows traveling long distances in short periods of time. Villages on the flanks of the volcano are naturally impacted. These tourists admire the landscape of steam and smoke at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island .  THE FASTEST high-volume eruption from Mauna Loa began on June 1, 1950, when fissures opened from the uppermost Southwest Rift Zone, generating a ferocious lava flow that traveled 15 miles, reaching the ocean in less than three hours, shutting down the highway in three places. Hawaii is at the southeast end of a chain of volcanoes that began forming more than 70 million years ago. Each island is made of one or more volcano which erupted on the floor of the Pacific Ocean, emerging above sea level only after countless eruptions. Six volcanoes collaborated over a million ears to create The Big Island.   ENTRANCE  to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park with its excellent visitor center is $30 per vehicle, $25 per motorcycle, $15 per pedestrian or bicyclist. The receipt allows entry for seven days. We happily used our national park senior passes, obtained a few years ago in Yellowstone National Park and much used across the U.S. Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy a sunny autumn day in Yellowstone National Park. UP NEXT :  Speaking of volcanoes, we're marking a very special birthday this week.  It's the 150th anniversary of the establishment of Yellowstone National Park, a world wonder, sometimes referred to as the Yellowstone Caldera, or Supervolcano. The park's wonder are enjoyed each year by millions of visitors from around the globe.  Although it's mostly in Wyoming, we Montanans claim it, too, and are proud to have three of the five entrances. We'll celebrate this living treasure with Bruce Keller's award-winning photos and a lively look at our visits to this wonderful place. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family, loss, love and more. www.whereiscookie.com

Bison graze throughout the park, alongside thermal pools and geysers that make the park famous. HAPPY BIRTHDAY, YELLOWSTONE, OUR NATION'S FIRST NATIONAL PARK STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Morning Glory Pool is a steamy thermal pool, accessible near Old Faithful Lodge on wooden walking paths.    Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at the north entrance, with a cornerstone laid by President Theodore Roosevelt. THE NATION'S FIRST  national park -- Yellowstone -- celebrates a big birthday this week.  One hundred fifty years ago, Yellowstone was created, signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant. President Theodore Roosevelt loved the park, and the Roosevelt Arch honors him, a triumphal landmark at the park's north entrance in Gardiner, Montana. Roosevelt laid the cornerstone in 1903, noting that Yellowstone and others in the national park system were created "to preserve and protect the scenery, cultural heritage, wildlife, geologic and ecological systems in their natural condition for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations." Yellowstone is the park service's  crowning achievement, and our country's first such park. Thank you Teddy and U.S. Grant for this gigantic gift to the world. Whenever we go to the park, we make a game of listing the languages we hear: French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Thai, Mandarin, Japanese, Norwegian, and accents of visitors from Australia, New Zealand and the United Kingdom. It's always a mini United Nations in the restaurants, bars, hotels and gift shops, as people come from thousands of miles away to view the land where Native Americans hunted, fished, gathered plants, quarried obsidian and used the healing thermal waters for religious and medicinal purposes. OUR FAVORITE corners of the park aren't the most visited ones. While we enjoy all the major attractions, too -- the Upper and Lower Falls, Geyser Basin and more -- it's fun to pull off on one of the quieter, less frequented  scenic views to simply revel in the magnificence.  To behold 3,500 square miles of wilderness is one of our top recreational treats. The cascading Lower Falls makes an eye-popping rush over rocks, and into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The beautiful Lake Hotel, the park's oldest. The mighty Yellowstone River and beautiful Yellowstone Lake are part of the park's landscape, too. The river flows north from Yellowstone Lake,  leaving the Hayden Valley and plunging first over Upper Yellowstone Falls and then a quarter mile downstream where it gushes   over Lower   Yellowstone Falls.  There, it enters the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, which is nearly 1,000 feet deep. The park sits atop a volcanic hot spot, with a splendid array of  canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers, including its most famous, Old Faithful, which isn't quite as reliable in its spouting as it was when I was growing up. Still, when it blows, it's magnificent. VYING FOR our attention is the park's abundant wildlife, for Yellowstone is home to hundreds of animal species, including bears, wolves, bison, elk and antelope. We never fail in our annual visits to see at least a couple of these -- always bison and often elk, antelope and bear.  We've seen wolves a few treasured times and heard their haunting cry in Lamar Valley, in the park's northern reaches. Those were wondrous events. Lamar Valley is a tranquil, lovely part of the park. Here, bison graze and drink against the beauty.  It's fun to share the road, too, with a herd of bison, who amble right near the cars and stop traffic periodically, causing rangers to move traffic along and encourage animals back onto the grasses. SINCE HALF the world's hydrothermal features are found at Yellowstone, we love to get out of the car a couple times each visit and walk the wooden paths to see the geysers and hot pots close-up.  It's not just visual.  It's smelly. No visit is complete without breathing in the glorious “rotten egg” odor at one of the pots, especially Mud Volcano, which gives off that familiar sulfuric odor.  The pungent smell is the result of microorganisms eating away at sulfur, creating sulfuric acid. As that evaporates, a park ranger explained, "the acid becomes hydrogen sulfide gas, which gives off the noxious smell." Besides Mud Volcano, two other "stinky spots" are the   Dragon's Mouth and Sulphur Caldron area between Fishing Bridge and Canyon. We fed the bears in my childhood -- late 1950s -- now we know better. Again, odorous but opulent. The smells are part of Yellowstone, and the visual grandeur more than makes up for the pungent odor. THE PARK'S HISTORY dates back 11,000 years, when native American tribes and bands used the park as their home, hunting grounds, and transportation routes prior to and after European American arrival. Yellowstone was established as the world's first national park in 1872. The most common misconception about Yellowstone is that it's overdue for an eruption. But volcanoes don't work like that, experts say. In the past two million years, volcanic eruptions have occurred in the Yellowstone area—three of them super eruptions. I remember well the devastating 7.5 earthquake of August, 1959. It knocked paintings off the walls of our home in Columbus, Montana, killed 28 people and caused $11 million in damage. A piece of driftwood frames this photo of Yellowstone Lake, 7,732 feet above sea level. It covers 136 square miles with 110 miles of scenic shoreline. Rick Cosgriffe, center, with his sister, Christene Meyers, and partner Jane Milder, at Lower Falls.  MUCH OF THE damage occurred as a result of a huge landslide triggered by the quake. It buried campers, trailers, wildlife and people near Hebgen Lake. A geologist friend said that more earthquakes like the Hebgen Lake event are unlikely within the Yellowstone caldera itself, "because subsurface temperatures there are high, weakening the bedrock and making it less able to rupture." Quakes within the caldera can be as large as magnitude 6.5. A quake of about this size that occurred in 1975 near Norris Geyser Basin was felt throughout the region. MEANWHILE, don't live in fear. Enjoy the wonder and thank our government which 150 years ago had the vision to protect and preserve Yellowstone National Park.In so doing, we set an example for the rest of the world. Masks are still required in Yellowstone and there is a variety of lodging, from rustic to elegant.  For more information: www.nps.gov/yell/ To book a stay : www.usparklodging.com/yellowstone/ UP NEXT : Hidden gems await on the verdant and peaceful shores of Hawaii's "Garden Isle," Kauai. Come with us to this westernmost of the Hawaiian Islands chain and settle at Kauai's graciously appointed Hilton Garden Inn. A favorite of many, this laid back yet elegant resort offers easy access to a tropical rainforest, boating and airplane tours, hiking trails, fine dining, gorgeous unpeopled beaches and delightful coffee plantations. Our time on stunning Wailua Bay near Lihue, remains sacred in our hears for the peace it offers. Come along to admire dramatic cliffs of Kauai's Na Pali Coast, to gaze at the magnificent Sleeping Giant mountain ridge and take in a spectacular fire show at the hotel or just sit in the soothing earth-and-sea colors of the Garden Inn lobby. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, nature, the arts, family, loss, love and more. www.whereiscookie.com

Bruce Keller and Christene Meyers are greeted with leis at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai, on a romantic get-away. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER IF YOU -- like most of the rest of the world -- yearn for a tranquil, beautiful place to put aside your worries for a few days, you won't do better than Hawaii's "Garden Isle," Kauai. You won't find a more pampering, relaxing place to nap, read a book, take a hike or recharge the romance in your life than at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai, on picturesque Wailua Bay. We stopped to smell the flowers, which are everywhere. The welcoming inn is only two stories tall -- no building can be taller than the tallest palm tree.  This wise edict was mandated decades ago by the people of this charming island and has preserved its feeling of "country" and untouched beauty. Kauai appetizers:  macadamia nut bread and pineapple, with a bouquet of Hawaiian flowers. WE'VE BEEN coming to Kauai since the 1970s -- separately, because we didn't know one another then, then together the past 15 years.  Each of us has fond memories of Kauai and on this trip together, we agreed that its quiet island charm remains much as it was 50 years ago, particularly at Hilton Garden Inn.  The hotel has a "hands on" staff, trained with the aloha spirit that marks this small island's feeling of hospitality.  Management decrees that guests are to be treated like royalty -- and we were. The hotel's residents include well  fed roosters, patrolling the grounds. ROOM SERVICE was delivered by the amiable marketing director, Sarah Cara, who stayed to visit and make sure our needs were met.  She gave us pointers on nearby attractions, including lovely Lydgate Beach Park, where we took a picnic the next day and enjoyed snorkeling and lazing on the lovely beach. THE HOTEL  is close to Wailua Bay and Opaekaa Falls. The famed Sleeping Giant Trail Head and Fern Grotto are nearby, too. We booked the famous Smith Family Luau, just a five-minute drive away (more later) and easily maneuvered the 15 minutes to Wailua Falls, Kapaa town, and the quiet Lihue Airport, where we'd picked up our baggage outside and found the rental car kiosk within easy walking distance. The hotel's  all-day restaurant, pools with poolside bar, and rooms with balconies and ocean views add to the charm of the place. KAUAI'S BEAUTY goes back eons, when a defect near the middle of the huge Pacific Tectonic Plate allowed molten lava to escape. It emerged, boiling and hissing onto the ocean floor seven miles down. Slowly, land rose until 30 million years ago when a volcano formed Kure Atoll, emerging from the sea into sunlight. The drive north from Kapaa leads to stunning views. Thus Kauai was born, at first much larger than it is today. Crashing waves from trade winds and storms eroded the north shore to form the stunning Napali Coast, with cliffs plunging 3,000 feet into the sea. Dozens of huge fault breaks formed canyons -- Waimea is the deepest and most spectacular -- and dramatic valleys formed along the canyon's eastern slopes. Volcanos, craters, calderas and gorgeous beaches make this beautiful island one of the world's most coveted. Yet it has remained quiet and still has a rural feel if one exits the beaten path. Bruce Keller enjoys an ice cream outside Skinny Mike's in Kauai.  KAPAA IS "the town," an unincorporated community and census-designated place in Kauai County. It is the most populous town on Kauai, with a population just over 11,000. Thus there is no "big city" on the island -- which is fine with us. Kauai is a favorite honeymoon spot. Known for its natural beauty and dramatic sites, it's a place to hide away from it all. We took a day trip to beautiful Waimea Canyon (with its gorgeous Coconut Coast). We enjoyed the islands gorgeous mountains and waterfalls, white sand beaches, sugarcane fields, and beachside cliffs on the Napali coast, the most isolated land mass in the world. Kauai Coffee: tops, says Bruce Keller . MY COFFEE snob partner also guided us to Kauai Coffee, the largest coffee plantation in the United States. He pronounced its java "the best I've sampled in my tastings around the globe."  Perfect climate -- cool nights and warm days, plus rich volcanic soil, Pacific trade winds and mountain rains make it so flavorful, says he.  In his younger days, coffee loving Bruce Keller took off his clothes with his college buddies and waterskied Kauai's Wailua River. That was a few decades ago.  This time, we didn't spot any naked adventurers on the tranquil river. We simply took a sedate fully clothed boat ride past gorgeous waterfalls and lush, jungle landscapes along the island's East Side.   KAUAI HAS  the only navigable rivers in Hawaii, which lead to more than natural beauty.  Ice cream, coffee, home cooking and the best loco moco we've had await.   We've tried many variations, but the one we had in Kapaa was best: a nap-inducing gourmand's bomb of   white rice, topped with a hamburger, fried egg, and brown gravy.   www.hiltongardeninnkapaa.guestreservations.com www.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin was on the bucket list for Cookie's mother, along with a kiss and a visit to the fabled Blarney Stone. UP NEXT: A salute to Ireland and St. Patrick, as we remember trips to the Emerald Isle and a special brother whose ashes will be sprinkled there next summer.  Ireland is part of our family's history, and memorable trips with family are treasured. We revisit Dublin, with its beautiful cathedral and lively pubs, take a look at tourism highlights and enticements, and describe a mother's bucket list kissing of the Blarney Stone. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us each week for a fresh look at nature, travel, the arts, cruising, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Beautiful costumes, magical lighting, talented dancers with garlands of leaves enhance the show at Hilton Garden Inn, Kauai.  The fire dance show is expertly performed, with live music. DRUMS, FIRE, DANCING CREATE EVENING OF SPECTACULAR ENCHANTMENT, AS WE LEARN OF POLYNESIAN CULTURE  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER Christene "Cookie" Meyers, left, and Bruce Keller join the company of the Ahi Uila Fire Show in Kauai . DRUMS POUND as colorfully clad dancers move onto the stage, carrying flickering tiki torches which sway in time to the rhythm. The audience quivers in anticipation of an entertaining evening.  Soon, a dozen skilled performers will have the full house gasping, whistling and applauding.  WE WERE  witnessing a spectacular fire show, learning a great deal about the distinctly varied cultures of the Polynesian islands. We booked our spectacular fire dance show at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai. It did not disappoint. We knew we were in a special place, where island people celebrate centuries old traditions and teach the audience of their cultures. A dancer moves with the flames. WE WERE the last ones into the sold-out performance hall, which proved to be lucky.  The main tables were occupied so a creative maitre d' snapped his fingers and quickly ushered us to a high-top cocktail table which had magically materialized.  While the tablecloth was laid, we took our comfortable seats to admire the show and listen to the narration.  We were slightly left of the stage, with an excellent perspective of the performers and fast-moving series of stories.   NORMALLY, the dinner show is held outside, but ocean tradewinds and the threat of rain moved it indoors.  Every Tuesday, though, the fascinating production is staged -- outside or "plan B" -- indoors, with doors and windows open wide.  Warm tropical winds near the Wailua River are usually gentle, but in times of strong winds, the threat of fire from the tiki torches is too great to chance.  Even indoors, the experience is unforgettable. Billed as the "Ahi Uila Fire Show," the drama's usual backdrop is on the resort's Mamahune's Lawn. Inside or out, the friendly aloha spirit blankets the evening of fire dancing, fire eating, hula, sword play and more. We felt thoroughly immersed in Polynesian culture with the exhilarating beat of Polynesian drumming and a well written narration. WE ASKED one of the ensemble what the fire dance means to him when we lingered after the show. "In our culture, dancing can signify loss and mourning, joy, celebration, sensuality, religious worship or even war," he said. Three dancers play out a story in moody lighting. Many cultures use fire dancing to honor their past and teach children and visitors about their heritage, he explained. The well known dance form is found around the world from Africa to Mexico and South America and many parts of Polynesia. Various tribes on several continents have practiced fire rituals or fire dances as far back as the 13th century CE, where the Aztecs of Mexico dedicated their practices to the god of fire, whom they called Xiuhtecuhti. WE LEARNED  that fire dancing is not actually Hawaiian born.  Its heritage is Samoan, but Hawaiian performers have learned and perfected it, finding it attractive to tourists and a popular dinner show addition. "Siva afi" or fire knife dancing, is also Samoan in heritage, incorporating the fierce looking Samoan weapon "nifo oti," or war knife. Part of the show involves bringing the fire close to the  audience, a full house which normally is seated outside. We saw performers twirl the weapon and demonstrate other acrobatic tricks that had all of us in the audience tilted forward on our seats. EVEN FARTHER away, in New Zealand, poi fire dancing offers yet another form of fire performance, this time derived from the Maori culture. Performers swing a chain or rope around their bodies, while a weighted ball and wick on each end are on fire. Dancers make large, circular motions   encompassing their bodies, all to the beat of the music. This dancer looks as if he might be in pain from the fire, but he is really just concentrating. Seldom do the dancers actually get burned. The evening -- called the Ahi Uila Fire Show -- is narrated by a storyteller who gives a lively history of the origins of the Hawaiian islands and its many immigrants -- each bringing his culture's art along.  The performers bringing the story of Hawaii and its Polynesian connection alive. AFTER THE  show, I asked one of the performers why the fire didn't seem to burn -- although we thought we'd seen a couple of the dancers grimace when the flames came too close. He chuckled and said, yes, it is possible to be burned, but usually that doesn't happen because the wicks are made from kevlar and soaked in fuel -- either alcohol or paraffin -- before they are set on fire. Then when spun, the effect is dramatic. Most of the available fire poi on the island are lightweight, and have a twisted link. Another trick: heat-resistant stainless steel connectors protect the performers against burns. None of this information detracted from the power of the show. In fact, it enhanced it. MUCH LIKE  a buffet at a Hawaiian luau, the performance at Hilton Garden Inn Kauai is an entertainment smorgasbord. It artfully incorporates hula, dancing, singing, drums and a history lesson into its own unique visual stew. Fire dance at the Garden Inn on Kauai offers history lessons along with spectacle. It's a potpourri of performance from many of the beautiful islands of Polynesia. AS THE narrator explained, each dance in the fire show is associated with a specific island group, and is special to a specific culture. Hula comes from the islands of Hawaii, Tahitian derives from the islands of Tahiti, the haka and poi balls originated in New Zealand, fire knife dancing from Samoa. Hawaiians have woven a visual tapestry of myriad dances with a thoughtful narration stressing the individuality and unique aspects of each number. The Garden Inn's fire show pays unique tribute to the spicy variety that makes this excellent Hawaiian performance so memorable. More information on Kauai, the resort and the fireshow: www.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai www.hgikauai.com/ahi-lele-fire-show .   We boarded a Flagship vessel this week for prime whale viewing off the coast of southern California. Next up. UP NEXT : Whale of a time! The San Diego whale watching season starts in mid-December and lasts until late April.  So we have a few more weeks to watch in wonder as 20,000 gray whales migrate through California waters headed for warmer climes in the Baja.  We saw a few whales this week -- some already heading back north to Alaska, but a few stragglers heading south. With our 78 miles of coastline, we are directly in the migration path so it's a perfect place to watch. We've even seen the magnificent grays from land, but we like to get closer via water, so we're sharing our joy. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at nature, performance, music, art, theater and dance, family, dining, famous cities and off-the-beaten path wonders: www.whereiscookie.com

A boat of happy whale watchers heads back after a successful spotting this week aboard Flagship's Marietta, with an experienced and enthusiastic crew to enrich the journey near San Diego. WHALE OF A TIME WATCHING EARTH'S MAJESTIC MARITIME CREATURES Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers are happy aboard the Marietta, which they take at least once a season to watch for whales off San Diego. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER EACH WINTER , 20,000 sleek,  southbound gray whales thrill nature lovers as they glide through the waters off the coast of California on their way to the warm waters of Baja's sheltering lagoons. There, they mate, calve and fatten up for the cold winter ahead. The annual gray whale migration is  one of Earth’s greatest wildlife spectacles, and the California coast is an outstanding place to see this grand migration. We haven't missed a season in the 15 years we've been together. Naturalist Danielle is associated with Ocean Connectors, whose aim is to educate. Flagship hosts dozens of school kids each year to spread the word for ocean conservation . Watching these enormous, graceful creatures is a thrill that never dims. Playful dolphins are a wonderful part of the adventure. Especially because they were nearly wiped out in the shameful whaling days of yore. Thanks to a moratorium on whaling and other multinational protections, the eastern Pacific population of gray whales is thriving with around 26,000 of these amazing critters now alive. WE SET   off with a familiar crew who have become friends through the years aboard Flagship's comfy Marietta.  Our goal was to see at least one whale -- which we did -- in less than a half hour! For me, the dolphins are as much a thrill as the whales.  These delightful creatures swim along side the boat, playfully leaping and turning in the water.  The babies look like little fast-floating footballs and I never tire of watching their antics, as their mothers gently nudge them to get back in line. Whales usually travel in pods of two or three. Gray whale calves are born between the end of December and beginning of February. So some mothers are mating and others are giving birth to calves conceived the year before. Since the gestation period is 12 months, the ones that mate this year won't give birth until next year. Newborn gray whale calves are about 15 feet long and weigh 1,500 lbs. During this time, the mother and calf pairs are known for their curious, friendly behavior. The mother's milk is the consistency of cottage cheese and the baby eats pounds a day. Dolphins follow the boat, so many of us peer over the side for long periods of time. A COUPLE YEARS ago, Keller photographed a mother and calf, a real thrill.  This year, we spotted that very active gray and watched him for over an hour, keeping a respectable distance so as not to frighten or interfere with him. When a whale comes into view, the naturalist puts out the word and there's a rush to one side of the boat.  Don't worry, the captain is considerate and makes sure the boat turns so everyone sees. There's a feeling of excitement and joy as we hurry to the railings. A whale, after all, is the width of a basketball court. The single whale we followed this outing was a delight.  Sometimes, we've seen four or five, but this single guy -- or gal -- put on a worthy "solo act," co-operative in his breeches and fluking, leaving a "footprint" on the water each time so we could follow him.  A splendid view of San Diego's skyline from the Marietta, approaching the city. "Footprint" is the disturbed water the whale leaves on the surface of the ocean when he or she flicks its tail or fluke with a downward stroke. Our captain and his crew were helpful in pointing out the whale's journey.  We followed our single whale by watching the markings on the surface even when he wasn't always visible for long.  Seeing a whale fluke is one of the great pleasures. WHEN 'OUR'  whale was diving, the naturalist provided interesting commentary on the incredible journey. With more than 20,000 grays making the impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey to the southern lagoons from their Alaskan home, there's much to talk about. The Flagship's Marietta crew includes skilled naturalists and the captain: Dale, Charles, Danielle and Hannah, and a luxurious two-story whale-watching yacht. WE ARE LUCKY in San Diego to be able to watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- often on Flagship's venerable Marietta with its full snack bar and many options for comfortable viewing inside or out. Sailor Keller has piloted our own craft on a couple whale watching adventures. But being captain is work. It's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he can play photographer.  The ship is also available for chartered events, harbor cruises, weddings, celebrations and corporate meetings and parties. There's still time for the whales if you're near. Or the whale watching in itself is worth booking a trip to San Diego   www.flagshipsd.com ;   www.oceanconnectors.org   The San Salvador is an exact replica of the one that explorer sailed into San Diego when he discovered the bay in 1542. It is a proud part of the San Diego Maritime Museum's extraordinary collection.   UP NEXT: While we're on exploring the benefits of living close to the water, come with us to San Diego's wonderful nautical museums.  We're exploring them in a two-part series on the enormous aircraft carrier at the USS Midway Museum, and the multi-ship Maritime Museum with its large collection of historic maritime vessels.  Both are wonderful educational and entertainment offerings for those with an interest in the sea. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh look at travel, art, nature, the ocean, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

Hawaii"s fascinating history is told in striking exhibits and displays at Lyman Museum in Hilo HILO MUSEUM OFFERS WORLD CLASS STUDY OF SETTLING OF HAWAII, CRAFTS, ART, CULTURE AND A HISTORIC HOME BUILT BY MISSIONARY TEACHERS Murals, paintings and expertly written commentary tell the fascinating story of the settlement of Hawaii. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER New England born Lymans brought their "Cape Cod" style architecture to build in Hawaii. IF YOU THINK of Hawaii  -- and only seashells, hula and palm trees come to mind -- you'll be pleasantly surprised when you visit the Lyman Museum and Mission House. Located in Hilo, on "the Big Island" of Hawaii, this treasure is Smithsonian-affiliated and the islands' only museum of natural and cultural history. Its large collection of intriguing artifacts is displayed throughout more than 20,000 square feet of open, airy and well designed galleries.  Expertly curated and sometimes surprising exhibits range from a beautifully illustrated history of the islands' settlement to a tour of the home next door, built by New England missionaries and teachers, David and Sarah Lyman in 1839. The much visited museum began with the home,  the Lyman Mission House, built near its present location and moved in 1931, nearly 100 years later. The museum was established by Lyman descendants and both buildings are carefully tended by docents who also give lively tours. THE NICELY restored Mission House is home to both furniture owned and built by the Lymans and other period pieces acquired by the museum which achieved status with both the State and National Registers of Historic Places. We admired lovely hand-crafted furniture, tools, household items, and artifacts used by the Lymans and other early missionary families. x The Lyman house is on the State and National Registers of  Historic Places and an important artifact of the Museum. The much larger Lyman Museum building, next door to the Mission House, was constructed in 1971.  We admired its superb collection of artifacts and natural history exhibits -- displayed in an impressively large and open space. A handsome gift shop offers handmade Hawaiian souvenirs -- classy, not airport kitsch. VISITORS TOURING the two facilities can see the old Mission House and life as it was 150 years ago, then go next door to inspect immersive exhibits on a range of Hawaiian natural history and culture. Through our Lyman Mission House guide, Jan, we enjoyed a glimpse into the life of the Lymans Lyman, who sailed 5,000 miles from New England in 1832 to build the island's oldest standing wood structure. Exquisite feather work is on show. Jan conveyed the courage of the couple -- rounding "The Horn" in a six-month voyage, before the Panama Canal, to craft a house without electricity or running water. WE SPENT  a good share of our afternoon visit in the museum's newly renovated Heritage Gallery which studies  Polynesian settlement and the life of these early Hawaiian people. We studied nicely displayed tools and implements crafted from native materials so these inventive people could farm, fish, build canoes and structures, grow crops, prepare and serve food, fashion weapons and adornments, and create clothing, coverings, and containers. This pair of Muscovy ducks kept watch outside the museum. THE SHELLS , rocks and feather work are stunning. So is an artistic exhibit on Hawaii's famous waterfowl.    The museum involves the community in learning, enrichment projects and guest artists, offering a range of educational programs from special lectures and talks to hands-on workshops on Hawaiian skills and crafts.  A favorite exhibit of locals is "Lei Hulu" featuring traditional Hawaiian feather work, exquisitely done.  Regional exhibits also draw attention. “Sasana: The Burma Portfolio,” features images of the Burmese people and their land, showcased the work of a noted Hawaii-based photographer. Bruce Keller looks to the horizon in front of a colorful mural at Lyman Museum, which offers a fascinating immersion in the complex culture of Hawaii .    THE GALLERY spends time on their spiritual beliefs and social relationships and diplomatically studies the influences of "Agents of Change," a variety of early European explorers, whalers, traders, missionaries and people from the mainland.  All helped shape the  islands' government, land use, economy and education. x Tools are nicely displayed with commentary on their use and how they were made. WE ENJOY this aspect of our frequent Hawaii visits. It's an appealing "melting pot," a multi-cultural mecca.  The museum notes these important contributors: Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese and Korean immigrants who worked the sugar plantations, contributed to an evolving language and brought new foods and music. That exotic blend shaped what Hawaiian people consider “local."  HAWAII'S POLITICAL  development is also carefully analyzed. The Monarchy's early class-based society is explained, leading up to Hawaii's statehood in 1959.  We learned how David Kalākaua, Hawaii's last and "Merrie Monarch” -- revived hula. He loved this graceful traditional Hawaiian dance, and helped revitalize it and other waning art traditions, ushering in a "cultural renaissance" in Hawaii. The museum's many and varied exhibits include this lovely three-dimensional display on Hawaii's waterbirds. THE MUSEUM  and next-door home are popular with schools and students are welcome. Our guide, Jan, noted that this is appropriate since high school boys crafted some of the furniture in the home. A highlight of the gallery is the "Kīpuka," an interactive learning space where students enjoy hands-on activities: Hawaiian kapa and tattoo design, mat plaiting, storytelling through hula, chant, petroglyphs, and oral legends. They take home their artwork -- learning  traditional techniques and an appreciation for the rich culture inspiring the artforms. Admissions are surprisingly low -- only a few dollars, with locals getting a price break.  www.lymanmuseum.org The seductive charms of La Casa del Zorro await you, a desert hotel offering a peaceful get-away with all the amenities of a resort or big-city property.  UP NEXT: A retreat in the desert -- both elegant and relaxed -- awaits at La Casa del Zorro in Borrego, Springs, a beautiful hotel with all the amenities of a big city resort yet the quiet and calming surroundings of one of the world's most picturesque deserts. "La Casa" offers private casitas and a handsomely decorated hotel, bird life, walking trails, a spa, yoga classes, tennis and a fine restaurant and bar with specialties of the house and something for every taste. Then as we approach hurricane season in Hawaii, we visit a fascinating Tsunami Museum. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com   UP NEXT: La Casa del Zorro is a stately yet relaxed hotel in the desert near Borrego Springs, Calif.

The Alaska Native Heritage Center is a gem of a facility, a living museum of performance, replica buildings, jewelry, pottery, weavings, furs, tools and more. It offers insight into a long ago life preserved in many ways. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER WE HAVE  visited Alaska many times, but never have we felt so awed and fascinated by the culture as we were this most recent trip. That's because we spent an eye-opening day at the fabulous Alaska Native Heritage Center near Anchorage. Young Alaskan men show off athletic skill in games. What a splendid place.  It gave us a unique, memorable and moving look at Alaskan Native life in a format we'd never experienced. Its focus is largely devoted to explaining the rich culture of indigenous people. We entered a large hall and gallery space to be directed to a large, open auditorium. A dancer shows off elaborate hand-crafted moccasins, artfully topped with fur. There we watched young people prepare costumes and props to dance and play games.  It was a live performance -- fascinating and beautifully executed. We sat spellbound as we listened to stories, met carvers, and visited with artists. The setting is small and intimate and a young couple near us were so moved, they joined the dancers. At each structure, knowledgeable volunteers explain the use of items and answer questions. As museum and culture buffs, we have been to many facilities, admiring painting, pottery, crafts and handiwork. Never had we seen such meticulous work:  intricate moose hide boots, beautifully woven birch baskets, seal hide tunics, detailed jewelry and fishing gear. The Carpe Diem Kids, "Cookie and Keller" pose beneath a whale bone arch as they hike the facility. We strolled a half-mile loop to enter and admire life-sized traditional native dwellings to see the richness and diversity of Alaska's Native cultures, including a Southeast Alaska longhouse -- a large wooden constructions with no windows and only a smoke hole at the top. We learned that they were designed to weather harsh elements and housed several families. We admired four beautifully carved posts, each representing a different culture, carefully carved and painted with themes of respect -- for the individual, family, the land and sea. Each structure offered insight into indigenous life. Flowers and perennial gardens are abundant, including on the grounds and restaurant. Nature is part of life and much revered in the culture. It was wonderful to see love expressed in gardens, visual arts, crafts and in casual lectures offered at each structure.  The pride, precision and sincerity in dancing, games, and docent explanations was moving to us. We bought lovely souvenirs created by   Alaska Native Artists at Ch'k'iqadi Gallery and had a tasty bite -- delicious sandwiches and pastry -- at D’eshchin Café. It's a one-stop offering for a full day of exploring and expanding horizons. The Center is launching a $25 million fund-raising campaign which will be used to enhance and expand this intriguing facility. Our hotel, lovely Anchorage Hilton, offers a shuttle to the center several times a day. More information: www.alaskanative.net UP NEXT: Vibrant, vivacious Vancouver Vancouver is an exciting, colorful city and we explore it in our next two pieces. From a world class art gallery with stunning Canadian artists, to an oasis larger than Central Park, and a hop on-and-off bus system that's one of North America's best, we offer tips. Coming next as The Carpe Diem Kids share their adventure in one of the continent's most vibrant cities.