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  • Debbie Reynolds and Carrie Fisher: a tribute to two blazing talents

    Debbie Reynolds and Gene Kelly in the film, "Singin' in the Rain." Carrie Fisher and Debbie Reynolds will be featured Friday, Jan. 7, in a lauded HBO special which was moved up for airing after their deaths. ON SHOW BIZ, MOTHER-DAUGHTER RELATIONSHIPS, ADDICTION, COURAGE, HUMOR, MENTAL HEALTH Good morning, good morning, We've gabbed the whole night through..... Good morning, good morning to you. Good morning, good morning, Sun beams will soon smile through Good morning, good morning, to you and you and you... (from "Singin' in the Rain") STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS by BRUCE KELLER others courtesy AP, Girl Scouts & Hollywood studios I GREW UP with those wonderful, innocent, 1950s musicals. "Singin' in the Rain" was a family favorite. Debbie Reynolds was only 18 when the picture was made, but held her own with Gene Kelly and Donald O'Connor. Debbie's snappy time steps and my mother's tap dancing skills encouraged my lifelong love of tap dancing. A young Debbie Reynolds proudly displays her Girl Scout badges. IN 1969, I WAS not much older than Reynolds was when she made that film. That was the year Lee Newspapers chose me to interview Reynolds. I was sent to Wyoming in a snow storm as a cub reporter to cover her keynote speech at a Girl Scout jamboree. Long a Scout herself, Reynolds charmed the overflow house with witty show biz tales. Wyoming's movers and shakers gave her a standing ovation. A fellow Girl Scout on my first of hundreds of "star" interviews, I was thrilled to get 15 minutes with her. When I dropped my pen, she graciously returned it to my shaking hand. Debbie Reynolds, Eddie Fisher and youngsters Todd and Carrie. "Now be calm and confident and promise to write a good story," she said, "Scouts honor?" I still have her handwritten thank-you note. Carrie Fisher as Princess Leia. DEBBIE SAID during the interview that she wanted to be the world's oldest Girl Scout when she died. I don't know if she was -- at 84 -- but the Girl Scout blog is paying tribute to her for a life of artistic achievement, philanthropy and Girl Scout devotion. Debbie's beloved daughter, Carrie, had just turned 13 when I interviewed her 37-year old mother. Years later, in an interview with Fisher in Phoenix, Az., I asked her what she might have been doing when I was interviewing her mother. (Her father was famed crooner Eddie Fisher, who left the family to marry Elizabeth Taylor when Carrie was a toddler.) Cookie (Christene Meyers) and her late mother, Ellen Cosgriffe, also tap danced, sang and wrote. Debbie Reynolds and Carrie Fisher photographed five years ago. "Oh, I was probably misbehaving, or having lunch at Cary Grant's," she joked. Her self-deprecating charm delighted the audience at her one-woman show later that day. ("When I was a teen, my mother was concerned that I was experimenting with drugs. So she did what any other mother would do: she called Cary for advice.") I loved her entrance in the Scottsdale Performing Arts Center. She came down through the house in a well worn house coat and bedroom slippers, which she kicked off. For 100 minutes on a cleverly chaotic set, she was mesmerizing. We laughed and cried at her touchingly told tales. The line between comic and tragic is a thin one as she proved in her prolific career as writer and producer. Carrie Fisher performing her hit autobiographical stage show, "Wishful Drinking" in 2009. She died at age 60 this week. WE REMEMBER her brief marriage to musician Paul Simon and her role as Princess Leia in "Star Wars." Her most lasting contribution, though, which combined fine acting and writing, was her ability to enlighten us, giving us insight and compassion on the complex subjects of mental health and addiction. My family has had its own share of both of the above, so I was moved to see Fisher's honesty and humor on the subjects of alcohol and drug use, bi-polar disorders, mothers and daughters and the relationship between mental turmoil and brilliance. What a mind she had, using her own knowledge of depression, alcoholism and creativity to share the vivid emotional landscape she inhabited. Debbie Reynolds passed at 84. Here she is at her Las Vegas hotel-museum, which failed to make it. Some of the star's costumes have gone to museums. I'D HAVE LOVED to have interviewed the two of them together with my mother, Ellen, a huge fan of both women. We'd have spent an afternoon together, just the four of us. Even though I grew up away from Hollywood in landlocked Montana, I identified with Fisher's one-woman show. Her tumultuous adolescence and the challenges of growing up with privilege, in the shadow of two famous parents, had universal truth. It couldn't have been easy, yet she described the pain, elation, loneliness and fear with elegance and self-effacing charm. I drew understanding from her thoughts, which echoed my mother's descriptions of her challenges. Debbie Reynolds in the lead of "The Unsinkable Molly Brown." PHOTOS OF of Fisher and Reynolds together in recent years show Reynolds' pride and their mutual love and respect. The pictures also reveal a spirit of optimism. I admire that, and their chutzpah. Both had it in spades. Both had multiple relationships yet persevered despite disappointment. While Fisher was signing books and touring her one-woman show, Reynolds was selling out her show at Bemelman's in New York's famed Carlyle Hotel. She continued her humanitarian interests and even tried her hand at the hotel business in Las Vegas. When her husbands squandered her fortune, she kept her cool, appearing on TV and in productions of "Mame" and "Hello Dolly." There's a wonderful lyric from "I Ain't Down Yet," a great tune in another family favorite, "The Unsinkable Molly Brown." The film earned the unsinkable Reynolds an Academy Award nomination in 1964. The lyric goes: Respect, admiration, optimism, courage: Debbie Reynolds and daughter Carrie Fisher worked things out. Happy trails. I'm goin' to learn to read and write, I'm goin' to see what there is to see, So if you go from nowhere on the road to somewhere And you meet anyone, you'll know it's me. Thanks for sharing the road with us for a short time. Happy travels, you two stars. And keep an eye out for my mum. You three would like one another! Keller and Cookie pause on a recent trip to Rome in front of the newly renovated Trevi Fountain. Yes,they threw their coins with their right hands over their left shoulders. Imagine yourself where you want to be for 2017! UP NEXT: Usher in the new year and salute it with all the style and energy you can muster. It's time to book that trip, master a new language, take tango lessons, learn to play the saxophone, plan the Alaska adventure you've talked about for decades. Head to Rome -- or another city you've longed to visit. Carpe diem and tempis fugit yourself into the new year, making your dreams into plans then reality. It can be done. We'll share some secrets that keep us traveling. Remember to explore, learn and live with whereiscookie.com. where we deliver a fresh look at travel and the arts around the world.

  • Southern Puglia Road Trip, Part 1 of 3: Small Towns, Coastal Gems, Senic Drives from Lecce

    We photographed Italy's famous Lovers Arch before it collapsed into the sea on Valentine's Day this year. The natural limestone arch, a beloved landmark on the Adriatic coast, was frequently used for proposals and photos, collapsed into the sea during severe storms associated with "Storm Oriana". Editor's Note: We begin a three-part series on the wonders of Puglia, flying into Bari, the capital of southern Italy, renting a car, heading south to Lecce, our base for daytrips, and on to the wonders at "the tip of the boot." Story By Christene Meyers Photos By Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" If you've been reluctant to rent a car in Italy, a perfect way to conquer your fear is to fly to Bari, rent a car and drive south to Puglia -- to Lecce and beyond. The colors of Bari are particularly bold at holidays, but the town lights up year round, here with Keller & Cookie Puglia is a relatively undiscovered gem, an appealing landscape of olive groves, stone walls, stunning coastal views and well preserved wonders. Lecce is a perfect base for exploring Puglia and the southern Salento peninsula by car. Bari is easy to reach from other European cities to start your Southern Puglia Road Trip. We flew from Brussels in just over two hours, rented our car and headed south. Driving here is nothing like navigating the frenzy of Roman streets. In Lecce, Matera and the villages of Puglia, Americans seldom visit. Speak even a few words of Italian and you'll be welcomed with a relaxed vibe, friendly people, authentic villages and a charming pace, the opposite of Rome's hustle and bustle . I'd been to Italy 20 times so I figured I knew what to expect here. But Puglia is another world, and should be on a well traveled person's radar. In scenic Puglia, Manuella, right, greets friends "Cookie and Keller" at Santa Cesarea Terme, for an afternoon tour. We thank our friend Manuella for encouraging us. We met her on a cruise a couple years ago. She is from that alluring corner of southern Italy and convinced us that a visit to Puglia, its villages and the Sassi of Matera should be on our must-see list. In fact, she lobbied that a Southern Puglia Road Trip is essential to our knowledge of southern Europe. So we spent two weeks of wonder and delight, taking an Italian road trip which included a visit with Manuella and her family and a rewarding venture into this lesser known but truly corner of her country. The coastline of Puglia is a mix of ancient sea walls, welcoming resorts and cafes and water views at every turn: -- the Adriatic Sea to the east, the Strait of Otranto and Ionian Sea to the southeast and Gulf of Taranto to the south. Gorgeous views abound as you leave Bari and head south. The cliff-side drama of Polignano a Mare can be enjoyed as you sample a panino col polpo (octopus sandwich) and watch cliff jumpers. It's famous for its tiny beach tucked into a cove. The distance is 152 kilometers Bari to Lecce, so get an early start so you can linger along the way. Lecce -- the 'Florence of the South,' a Baroque Jewel We arrived in Lecce in time to explore the Old Town, whose history spans ancient Messapian settlements to a flourishing Baroque period reflecting Roman infrastructure, Norman rule, and eventual Spanish control. Lecce's Old Town is a charming mix of narrow streets, ornate facades, hidden squares, casual eateries and elegant shops. Here, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers view the options for lunch and gelato. After Roman times, the city endured invasions before the Normans revitalized it, leading to a prosperous county and eventually its integration into the Kingdom of Naples. The most significant transformation was under Charles V, which ushered in the 17th-century Baroque era, defining its unique architecture. Lecce's Baroque architecture is mesmerizing. We strolled from one piazza to another, enjoying shops and restaurants and talented buskers. By day, it's sunny and welcoming. At night, there are lights and couples strolling after a late meal. It's scene after scene of golden lights on a modern day nativity setting. Lecce Duomo. We walked the town in an easy half-day, returning two other days to admire the Piazza del Duomo with its intricate baroque design, and Basilica di Santa Croce, Lecce's crown jewel, in various light. To truly soak up the atmosphere of this beautiful city, you'll want to stay several days and be sure to visit the Old Town for dinner one evening to enjoy the dazzling lights as they come on. Otranto Castle made a fun day trip, here Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers pose in front of the 11th Century Castle, built between 1485-1498 to protect from sea invasions by the Ottoman Empire. Fun Day Trip, a Coastal Escape to Otranto We took a day trip to Otranto, less than an hour from Lecce. It's a jewel of Puglia on the Adriatic coast, renowned for its 11th-century Cathedral with stunning mosaics, the imposing Aragonese Castle, and a charming, whitewashed historic center. Great place to stop for lunch and a leisurely walk. Otranto lighthouse is an active facility in Capo d'Otranto, the easternmost point in Italy and narrowest point of Strait of Otranto. It was abandoned for years, but reopened for tourists after historians realized its importance and began renovation efforts. It is now a beloved and often visited landmark for locals and tourists. Highlights include the breathtaking Baia dei Turchi the unique Cava di Bauxite the Lungomare promenade, offering a perfect blend of history, culture, and coastal beauty. The Adriatic views and harbor are picturesque, the seaside walls impressive and the mosaics are well preserved. We suggest lunch overlooking the harbor. Lecce is known as "the Florence of the south" for its beautiful arches and golden hued limestone which was carved into elaborate patterns. The Triumphal Arch is one of three gates to Lecce, here behind Keller and Cookie. Italy's Gallipoli -- The Ionian Coast Surprise Another day trip is a visit to Gallipoli, not the more famous Turkish site of World War II battles, but another Gallipoli, a laid back fishing village with beautiful sunsets along the Ionian Sea. Italy's Gallipoli is famous for its seafood markets and an island old town connected by a bridge. Another great place to park the car, stroll, grab lunch or gelato. The Southern Tip of the Heel Capo Santa Maria di Leuca Lighthouse We drove to Santa Maria di Leuca, where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet. The coastline is dramatic and its lighthouse has a fairy tale allure. Our friends insisted we take the time to get there, past olive groves and estates nicely shrouded by the landscape. Italy has more than 400 lighthouses, many in southern Italy where they were necessary navigational tools. Why a Car Makes Puglia Special A road trip through the sun-washed towns of Puglia reveals a side of Italy where centuries-old traditions, whitewashed villages, century-old olive groves and unforgettable cuisine come together around every bend in the road. For travelers seeking authentic culture beyond the crowded icons, exploring southern Italy by car unlocks the hidden beauty of Puglia’s historic towns and Adriatic coast. We quickly learned the parking rules. Look for blue lines meaning you pay, white lines meaning free and red meaning don't park here. We took a photo of our rental car license so we could easily find it. For us, the magic of our Puglia road trip was discovering that the most memorable moments are often found in the smallest villages. We recommend a road trip here for several reasons: Easy drives between villages Hidden countryside where you can take your time and not worry about being lost Olive groves, villages to explore, reasonably priced lodging and splendid food -- pasta the pastries. We recommend the pasticciotto, a delicious cream-filled pastry. There are picture book olive groves, too, and whitewashed villages all around Puglia. Surrounded by Matera's stunning hillsides and cave houses are Cookie and Keller, exploring. If it looks like a scene from a James Bond movie, it is. Matera was the scene of "No Time To Die." The cast and crew spent several weeks filming in the world's oldest continuously inhabited city, above and below. UP NEXT: Matera beckons. It deserves its own separate story with its unique cave hotels and restaurants, its fascinating pedestrian only areas, its stone churches, bridges and distinction as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth. We explore the city with two guides, one in a jeep and one on foot.

  • Celebrity Cruise Line 15 ships offer splendid itineraries, stylish traveling to see the world

    We boarded Celebrity's Eclipse for an exciting 15-day cruise from Buenos Aires to the Antarctic. Here, we joined fellow cruisers to board our bus for a shore excursion and spectacular wildlife.  CELEBRITY'S FLEET SPANS THE GLOBE, WITH CLASSY STATE OF THE ART SHIPS Celebrity's handsome ships are easily recognized by the line's distinctive trademark "X" logo. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" THE GREEKS have long been good travelers. So it's no surprise that Celebrity Cruises owes its heritage to the Greece based Chandris Group, which launched the company in 1988-89. We're Celebrity fans, dating back to its founding by the Greece-based Chandris Group whose first ships were Mercury and Meridian. These elegant vessels quickly established Chandris as an appealing, up-market big-ship operator.  Celebrity shore excursions include a wide range. Here "Cookie and Keller" enjoy a bike ride in Vietnam . ONE CAN easily spot a Celebrity ship with the line's signature "X," displayed on the funnel. It's the Greek letter chi for "Chandris." If Chandris sounds familiar, you're old enough to remember Chandris Line, a Greek shipping company founded in 1960 by popular ship builder and developer Antonios Chandris. His began operating ocean liners between his native Greece, to Europe, Bermuda and Australia. Chandris initiated the "X" tradition on its funnels, paying homage to the first letter of  Chandris in Greek: Χανδρή. The chi was the logo for Chandris then continued with its successor, Celebrity Cruises. CELEBRITY IS rightly  proud of its ships "bells and whistles'' and modern venues, including state-of-the-art cabins, restaurants, bars and attractions geared towards R&R. Its Edge, for example, is touted as "revolutionary -- designed to raise the bar of cruising." It features a trend-setting outward facing design encouraging guests to feel connected to the sea. A terrace pool deck provides spectacular views as the ship sails between ports.  We explored Antarctica aboard Celebrity for a thrilling wildlife adventure. Close-up communion with king penguins was a highlight of our Equinox cruise from Argentina, a wondrous 15-day voyage.  The resort deck offers a beautifully tended rooftop garden with an urban “playscape,” unique to Celebrity. An  asymmetrical pool also faces the sea. Comfy seating encourages a picnic while watching a movie in the garden .   Celebrity doesn't rest on its laurels, coming out with a new ship every two years. It keeps vessels for around 20 to 30 years before retiring them. Celebrity Cruises operates 15 vessels. We've cruised on 7 of those, including several voyages on the line's dowager ship, Celebrity Millennium, which is a quarter-century old old and still a favorite. Another highlight of our 155 cruises was a spectacular Celebrity itinerary through Asia, with Bali's breathtaking landscapes and sails into Hong Kong and Singapore. MILLENNIUM  also goes to India and South Korea and smaller ports in Malaysia. Our cruising friends enjoy glass blowing classes and demonstrations on Celebrity cruise's Solstice class ships. We were fans in the line's busy period between 2000 and 2002, when Celebrity launched four ships: Millennium, Infinity, Summit and Constellation -- carefully chosen names carrying on the sentimental naming tradition of Chandris, whose Romantica was an early ship. Writer Christene "Cookie" Meyers gives a reading aboard Celebrity Millennium.  These larger, modern Celebrity ships carry 2,200-plus passengers -- still reasonable compared to today's largest ship, Icon of the Seas, with 7,600 passengers.  We like Celebrity's sizes and its all-glass elevator banks, lively art lectures, stunning onboard art collections, variety of inviting, relaxing areas and a focus on culinary experiences. Celebrity also initiated a series of programs and enhancements designed to improve onboard experience, including glass blowing among the  expanded adult enrichment program, afternoon tea and a spa cafe dinner option. This is Blu, open exclusively to passengers staying in AquaClass cabins. Cookie and Keller on Celebrity, enjoying the scenery in Halong Bay off the coast of Vietnam We've also sampled Celebrity's 48-passenger Celebrity Xpedition (a delightful 24 staterooms) which gives a wonderful close-up view of the creatures and landscape of the Galapagos.  The ship, in fact, helped put Celebrity -- and Darwin's famous islands -- on the map. . For Celebrity's itineraries, discounts and more:  celebritycruises.com ON TAP:  We cruise to Lisbon where we photograph dolphins, enjoy fado clubs and try a tuk-tuk tour. Then we cruise to   Gibraltar's famous bay which offers a view of two continents and splendid sea life.   Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, cruising, performance, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Queen Mary 2 offers "old world" service where passengers are royalty

    CROSSING FIT FOR A QUEEN OFFERS ENDLESS OPPORTUNITIES FOR ACTIVITY OR TO SIMPLY SAVOR, RELAX, ENJOY  STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers worked out every morning to allow them a few extra calories at QM2's afternoon tea. I CRIED when my favorite Queen Elizabeth 2, made her final voyage.  It was in 2008. This venerable ship languished for a decade before being converted to a floating hotel in Dubai's Port Rashid in 2018.  I'd crossed the Atlantic five times on QE2, sailed the Norwegian fjords in her penthouses, and  played piano in her elegant bars. I cried again -- tears of joy -- aboard Queen Mary 2, which revives the stylish tradition of the world's grand ocean liners. Grandeur lives on in Cunard Cruise Line's fleet where passengers experience the old world elegance of a not yet bygone era. We're so smitten, we've stayed several times in the original Queen Mary, now a hotel in Long Beach, California. And we are about to embark on our second QM2 crossing.  Queen Mary keeps sentinel aboard  QM2, in this elegant bronze. CUNARD GROOMS its team to continue the line's elegant traditions aboard four luxurious ships: Queen Mary 2, Queen Elizabeth, Queen Victoria and Queen Anne.  The quartet's  diverse itineraries include Europe, Asia and North America. QM2 was completed in 2003 and reigns as the world's only trans-Atlantic ocean liner to offer regular, often sold-out service between New York and Southampton.  So what accounts for her demand? We asked David Shepard, QM2's dapper hotel manager, to explain the ship's popularity. LEADING THE "appeals list," he said at a cocktail party, is the variety of offerings during the week-long crossing. If one can't be amused or entertained on QM2, he's probably on life support. We observed a happy mix of passengers, in both black tie and blue jeans, a metaphor for QM2's allure. While most  American travelers don't prefer formal nights, many Brits and Europeans do. So Cunard offers those, with alternatives if one doesn't care to don tux or gown. One can dress to the nines, with white glove waiters and ballroom dancing, or laze in a robe for the best room service afloat. Restaurants and buffets offer everything from appetizers to decadent desserts. Friendly waiters share recipes and send print-outs to your stateroom. Dining venues depend on what class room you've booked. OTHER SHIPS  allow only service dogs on board. QM2 boasts a loyal following of devoted pet lovers who know she's the only ship that allows them to cross the pond with their pups and cats. We met three couples who have crossed multiple times, lured by daily visitations and the pampering their pets get from the ship's kennel master. Pet lovers may cross with their beloved animals -- in QM2 style. VARIETY IS  QM2's hallmark. There's a table tennis tournament, a spectacular planetarium, and a jazzy DJ nightclub if one doesn't want to swirl in Queens Room, the largest ballroom at sea.  There are classic movies in your stateroom, fencing classes, wine tastings, a huge gym and lavishly appointed spa. We enjoyed fine lectures and strolled the Deck 7 promenade. We admired the art deco motif as we  walked the grand staircase, part of a 2017 remastering with a budget of $177 million.   David Shepard continues Cunard's old-world elegance and tradition as QM2 hotel manager. How to cross with your pet    White gloved waiters reflect tradition and formality. QM2's afternoon tea is one of the ship's draws. QUEEN MARY 2 is the crown jewel of one of the world's smallest fleets. Yet Cunard is perhaps the best-known cruise line, with her 184 years of history dating to 1840. Founder Samuel Cunard, a savvy businessman from Halifax, Nova Scotia, had a vision of elegance that remains the focus of the line.  Portraits of him, looking dapper and distinguished, are flanked by elaborate floral arrangements throughout the ship.   The line's iconic status gives Shepard a high standard of tradition to maintain.  Sir Samuel Cunard, founder of the line, is remembered in portraits on QM2. FORMALITY combines with the feeling "that one is enjoying something unique," he says. Because our crossing capped a two-month trip, we didn't have full black tie for the formal nights. When other ships were dropping those, Cunard listened to clients who enjoy dressing up. So we admired fellow passengers in jazzy flapper outfits, complete with fringe and bow ties and joined them to enjoy a string quartet, elegant meal and ballroom dancing in the Queens Room. There are other old-world touches: two ornate theaters, white glove embarkation service, luncheon piano concerts and matinees, dozens of formally arranged artworks, and afternoon tea with luscious scones. (See recipe below.)  SMOOTH SAILING  is another advantage of crossing on QM2. Actors show aspiring fencers how it's done. We watched fellow passengers learn the art. She was designed to be "steady on" as she transits occasionally turbulent seas, keeping passengers comfy and safe. My sailor husband explained that her hull has a deeper draft than cruise ships. Her bow moves sleekly through waves while less sturdy ships may bounce. We've crossed on smaller ships where the captain asked us to remain in our cabins during rough seas. Once, an 8-day crossing turned to 11 days as we struggled through 25-foot waves at seven knots. QM2 can cut through rough waters at 24 knots.    Top lecturers are a draw aboard QM2, here an engaging talk on the colorful life of Gala and Salvador Dali. She weighs in at 151,400 tons, the largest passenger ship when she was christened by Queen Elizabeth 2 in 2004. But while most similarly sized vessels carry 4,000 or 4,500 passengers, she carries only around 2,600 passengers. Plenty of space including our sheltered veranda, which allowed fresh air in privacy, even on a cool day.   A BIG HOORAY for QM2's actual library, overlooking her bow. We were happily distracted for  hours with hundreds of books -- a rarity in today's cruising world when most ships have done away with old-fashioned libraries. Queen Mary's is well stocked with a knowledgeable librarian. Cookie enjoys a real library on QM2, a rarity these days. Because there are no ports of call on QM2's crossings, shipboard activities are crucial to us. Others awaken to a mimosa, nap after a mid-day meal, play a game of bridge. We like movies, concerts and lectures with topics ranging from the future and technology, to "life on the road" with a British journalist, to stories of the Concorde airplane by a seasoned pilots. Cunard's excellent "Insights" lecturers    Bruce Keller and Christene Cookie" Meyers dressed  up to dance aboard QM2. are authors, actors, professors, CEOs, ambassadors and other professionals.  On QE2,  I'd interviewed actor Kevin Kline, composer Andre Previn and director Josh Logan. So I was delighted that quality continues in QM2's lectures on the cold war, space travel, espionage, politics and theater. A favorite lecture featured eccentric surrealist artist Salvador Dali and his promoter/wife Gala. QM2's CONCERTS and theater cuttings are fabulous, too, from classical music to the Royal Shakespeare Company. We dipped in both the indoor and outdoor swimming pools, considered the offerings of QM2's Canyon Ranch spa, invested in the casino, picked up gifts at the shops, and explored a dozen bars and lounges. We kept active dawn to dusk, rousing ourselves for exercise class in the Queens Room, snacking, reading, taking in lectures, movies,  afternoon tea, dinner, a show, then ending the day full circle with a dance in that versatile Queens Room.  Sleep at last, to dream of QM2, with our veranda door cracked to the sound of the sea. To book or inquire: cunard.com Before or after you sail: Southampton has four fabulous aquariums.    www.southamptonlivingwaters.co.uk/ www.dayoutwiththekids.co.uk/things-to-do/south-east-and-london/hampshire/southampton/animals/aquariums TRY MAKING CUNARD'S SCONES: A Queen Mary 2 scone, with blueberry jam and clotted cream. Divine. 2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature ⅔ cup milk 1 large egg 1 cup raisins Directions 1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. 2. Mix lightly flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Blend, not too much stirring. 3. Add the butter, egg, milk, raisins. 4. Drop on buttered pan. Bake until golden brown, checking at 12-15 minutes. Serve with jam and clotted or whipped cream. Add finger sandwiches to really make your tea authentic. Venice folks have mixed feelings about tourism. Many businesses need the patronage of thousands of visitors but many others don't appreciate the ill effects of tourism. Fall is a good time to visit, when the crowds are subsiding. UP NEXT:  The allure of Venice.  It's not the same cruising into Venice today, since cruise ships have been banned from the city front and Grand Canal.  But even while the fabled city is being overrun by tourists, and a visitor's tax has been implemented, it is still one of the world's most glorious places. We encourage a visit in fall, while one can find a table to savor the sights and sounds after the crush of tourists subsides. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, family, performance and more:  www.whereiscookie.com

  • Cruising the light fantastic on NCL's Viva, a floating resort, a fun 'city' with so much to do

    VIVA HAS IT ALL: VITALITY, GLITZ, STYLE, OLD WORLD DECORUM, WITH SPIRIT AND MODERN TOUCHES TO APPEAL TO FAMILIES, ROMANTICS OF ALL AGES STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" EACH TIME  we book a ship, we research the architecture, art and design. It's important for us to be surrounded by intriguing artwork and inviting spaces to explore on these floating resorts. Set your sights on something new, daring and exciting for the new year.  Here we are on NCL's new cruise ship Viva. The Speedway is a three-level race track. We also look for fun shows and for activities that stretch our minds and bodies. And we avoid noisy "party ships" or those with lots of children. Norwegian Cruise Line's newest floating palace, Viva, fills our bill. She's one of cruising's prettiest ships,  an artful wonder on the water. Like her sister ship, Prima, Viva doesn't feel huge or overwhelming.  Her ambiance is relaxed, understated, with the intimate spaces of a small ship -- despite 3,900 guests.  We seldom saw the same people twice, and felt quickly in control of our space in this thoughtfully designed vessel, the latest of NCL's 19-ship fleet.   Viva's artful design includes inviting promenades, pools, artwork, pools and many places to relax and view the sea.  IF YOU'RE bored on Viva, you lack imagination and have no one to blame but yourself. There is truly something for every taste. I challenged myself on the three-level race track, where young hotshots vie for top scores each day.  We enjoyed trivia contests about movies, music and geography, and explored the state-of-the-art gym -- but not nearly enough.   A huge thermal spa boasts inviting steam rooms and saunas. The roster of activities is staggering. VIVA  SPORTS  both a waterslide and a dry slide, VR games, mini-golf, darts, and a three-level race track. Four swimming pools welcome water buffs. And the ship's sculpture-lined promenade is one of the most attractive we've strolled in our 138 cruises. Inside the Vibe, enjoy your own cabana. AS ON MANY other lines -- unless you're splurging for an all inclusive cruise -- you pay extra for boxed water, sodas, alcohol, specialty restaurants, and shore excursions. Various packages allow flexibility in booking. One option is the adults-only Vibe Beach Club.  For an additional fee, you'll enjoy access to this delightful area. It became a favorite haunt, where we enjoyed morning coffee, lunch and sunset cocktails as an option to our balcony which wasn't always in the sun. The open, airy Indulge Food Hall is a favorite dining option in a wide range on the Viva. ONE OF our favorites of the ship's 14 varied restaurants is its popular Indulge Food Hall, where we ordered tasty ethnic, made-to-order items on an electronic menu. It's an appealing, innovative place with a menu at each table.  Other fun Viva options: A saltwater pool on the sun deck allows relaxation while happily floating, trading your pale skin for a tan. And for solo travelers, a variety of studio suites offers options for single travelers -- avoiding the usual single supplement charge. The Viva offers a choice of slides -- both water and dry. There are beautiful sea views from almost everywhere. Here, Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy. www.ncl.com/about/contact-us IF YOU WANT  even more luxury, try The Haven, an exclusive enclave with larger accommodations, 24-hour butler service and world-class amenities, exclusively for Haven guests. You'll have a separate elevator and restricted space, much like Cunard's exclusive  "Grills" accommodations. IF YOU BOOK  this option, it's within a centralized all-suite complex on Viva, easy distance to the private elevators. Its elegant  public areas and suites are by famed Italian designer Piero Lissoni. Every Haven locale offers stunning sea views. We didn't stay in Haven, but were invited by the amiable French born general manager Nelson Martins to dine there. Martins is a "hands on" manager, well liked by the staff and a steady presence on the ship, chatting clients up, seeing what they like. We enjoyed our time with him immensely.  You don't need Haven to be in heaven on Viva. We were happy on back-to-back Viva cruises, to enjoy our large veranda stateroom on deck 15. In fact, we've booked Viva for another pair of cruises in 2024, a trans-Atlantic crossing from San Juan to Lisbon to and a Mediterranean cruise. UP NEXT:  CityPASS is a wonderful, money saving way to enjoy U.S. cities and their major sights and attractions.  We've enjoyed it in several cities because it saves time and money. If you want to move to the front of the line and spend more time enjoying rather than planning, it's the ticket.  We explore New York City this time with CityPASS, which also goes to Chicago, Toronto, Seattle, Atlanta, Tampa Bay, Houston and a total of 14 U.S. cities plus Toronto in Canada. The program offers a packet of discount tickets to many of each city's major attractions. In New York, we explored on the city's famous ferry system, took in Rockefeller Center's "Top of the Rock," toured the Empire State Building, and Ellis Island, plus more adventures. Check us out next time, remembering to explore, learn and live.

  • Best Circle Island Tour of Oahu by E Noa: Culture, Coastlines & Pure Aloha Spirit

    Nuʻuanu Pali Lookout: historical site, scene of a ferocious 1795 battle. King Kamehameha I led his forces to the unification of the Hawaiian Islands. Story By Christene Meyers Photos by Bruce Keller "The Carpe Diem Kids" If you’re an international traveler searching for the perfect mix of culture, scenery, history, and fun, the best Circle Island Tour in Oahu is created by E Noa Tours. This highly rated company delivers a lively mix of sights, stories and nature in one memorable day. On the island of Oahu, every curve of the coastline tells a story-- of ancient Hawaiian royalty, Polynesian voyagers, battles to the death, plantation life, crops and Hawaii's legendary surf culture. Bruce Keller, E Noa guide Turk and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoy scenery and treats on a tour stop. We enjoyed this full-day experience for the second time, with a terrific guide named Turk (Portuguese, Chinese and 50 per cent Hawaiian). Turk blended breathtaking scenic stops, sacred sites, cultural immersion, personal anecdotes, Hawaiian history and iconic treats. He did it with ease, stories and humor -- even singing a couple songs. It was a stress free day without the anxiety of a rental car to navigate it ourselves. Here’s what makes this circle island tour one of the best things in Oahu for international visitors from U.S., Japan, Europe and beyond 1. Nuʻuanu Pali Lookout: Winds, Warriors & Royal History Our journey began as we boarded a small, comfy van then drove high above the windward coast to Nuʻuanu Pali Lookout. The panoramic view is cinematic: emerald cliffs plunge into the Pacific, with the lush Koʻolau Mountains a dramatic backdrop. We saw the vacation home of Barrack Obama, "Magnum P.I." locations and more. Turk set the scene for the stop at this historical site, scene of a ferocious 1795 battle. King Kamehameha I led his forces to the unification of the Hawaiian Islands. Standing in the powerful trade winds, we felt the energy of the warriors who won -- and the sorrow of the mourners whose loved ones opposed the king and died. For culture-focused travelers, this stop sets the tone: Oahu is not just beaches. It’s living history. The exquisite Byodo-In Temple is a much photographed stop on E Noa's Circle Island Tour. 2. Byodo-In Temple: A Peaceful Japanese Sanctuary in Hawaii Next, Turk drove us to the tranquil grounds of Byodo-In Temple, at the base of the Koʻolau Mountains. The graceful Buddhist temple is a replica of a 950-year-old temple in Uji, Japan. Bruce Keller and Cookie Meyers ring the Byodo-In Temple gong which is said to bring happiness. We rang its three-ton gong for tranquility, blessings and happiness. The reflection of the red temple against the koi-filled ponds and misty green cliffs feels dreamlike. Accents from Asia and Europe greeted us -- international travelers here to appreciate the stop because it highlights Hawaii’s multicultural identity. Japanese tourists admired the beautifully manicured grounds, especially meaningful to them because Japanese immigration played a major role in shaping the islands. This serene setting offered us all spiritual calm and stunning photography opportunities. 3. Tropical Farms – Macadamia Nuts & Local Crafts Macadamia nuts by the hundreds are offered for tasting in many flavors at Tropical Farms. This large carved wooden sculpture at Tropical Farms features a husband and wife and is called "Honor Your Father and Mother." The Lakes were influential figures in Hawaiian history. Master carver Victor Niu is the artist. From spiritual serenity to island flavors, the next stop was Tropical Farms. Here, we sampled locally grown macadamia nuts in a variety of flavors -- honey roasted, garlic, Kona coffee, cinnamon and chocolate-covered varieties. We bought hot sauce and other Oahu-inspired agricultural exports and sampled Kona coffee from the Big Island. Beyond snacks, Tropical Farms showcases locally made crafts and souvenirs. The shops were doing brisk business with lovely seascapes, and other authentic, locally sourced gifts. It’s casual, friendly, and wonderfully Hawaiian. 4. Polynesian Cultural Center and Lunch at Pounders A highlight of the day is the immersive experience at the Polynesian Cultural Center. This is not a theme park -- it’s a cultural living museum representing the diverse island nations of Polynesia: Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti, Fiji, and Aotearoa (New Zealand). Tour participants watch traditional dances, learn about navigation by the stars, observe coconut husking demonstrations, and understand how ancient Polynesians crossed vast oceans using only natural elements. For international visitors, this stop provides cultural context. Hawaii is part of a much larger Polynesian story, and the Center makes that connection vivid and interactive. Lunch is included at Pounders Restaurant, known for hearty island inspired dishes. We shared a zingy and satisfying Thai stir-fry with veggies and tofu and expertly seasoned shredded pork. Generous portions, fresh ingredients, and local flavors. 5. Waimea Valley: Gardens, Waterfall & Optional Swim Nature lovers will be captivated by Waimea Valley. This botanical valley is both culturally significant and naturally stunning. The paved path winds through tropical gardens filled with native Hawaiian plants, ancient archaeological sites, and shaded rainforests, listening to the sounds of birds on a 1.5 mile walk awaits a picturesque waterfall. Swimming is an option and a couple from our small group brought suits for a refreshing dip beneath the beautiful tropical waterfall. We wanted to stay dry, so the walk itself was our choice. The combination of culture, conservation, and natural beauty makes Waimea Valley a top North Shore attraction. 6. Scenic North Shore Drive: Surf Culture & Small-Town Charm The first and oldest surf shop is a fun tour stop. After Waimea, the tour continues along the legendary North Shore. In winter months, these waves attract the world’s top professional surfers. My husband, our photographer, is an old surfer with three boards in our garage. In summer, the ocean becomes calmer and crystal clear. Either way, the drive itself is spectacular long stretches of coastline, turquoise water, and dramatic surf breaks. The charming surf town of Haleiwa was our next stop. Here, we found my surfer's favorite shop in all the islands: the oldest surf shop in Hawaii Surf N Sea with the original signed board of the state's most famous surfer, Duke Kahanamoku. Others of the tour strolled boutique shops, art galleries, food trucks, and the world's most famous surf shop. Even if you’re not a surfer, stepping inside connects you to Hawaii’s deep surf heritage. This stop blends fun and authenticity. It’s relaxed, colorful, and full of character, a refreshing contrast to Waikiki’s bustle, traffic and resort energy. 7. Dole Plantation: Pineapple Dreams Bruce Keller enjoys his favorite treat: ice cream at the famous Dole Plantation. No circle island tour would be complete without a sweet ending at Dole Plantation. Here, you’ll learn about Hawaii’s pineapple plantation era — a major part of the island’s agricultural and immigration history. But let’s be honest: most visitors are here for the legendary pineapple soft serve. Served with fresh strawberries on top, this refreshing treat is the perfect finale after a full day of exploration. It’s sweet, tropical, and instantly Instagram-worthy. Why This Is the Best Circle Island Tour Oahu for International Travelers E Noa has a long, proud legacy of touring and the highly rated tours combine learning, scenery and pleasure. E Noa means freedom without restriction and E Noa tour stands out because it combines: Cultural education Scenic photography stops Local food experiences Nature immersion Surf history Agricultural heritage The end of a long but satisfying day with E Noa Tours finds Keller and Cookie tired but happy. It covers nearly every side of Oahu in one well-paced day without feeling rushed. The Circle Island tour makes many pleasant stops. Here at a macadamia nut farm, a separate room offers beautifully crafted Hawaiian jewelry, perfect souvenirs or gifts. For travelers visiting Hawaii for the first time, especially from Europe, Asia, Australia, or Canada, this tour provides context. You don’t just see Oahu, you understand it. You’ll experience: Hawaiian royal history Japanese cultural influence Polynesian traditions North Shore surf lifestyle Plantation-era agriculture Few day tours manage to weave all of that together so seamlessly. And don't overlook the Waikiki Trolley, We always book Waikiki Trolley to enjoy its four routes. The color-coded routes offer many stops covering Honolulu's best attractions and stops, from museums, to the beach, parks, palaces and more. Hop on and off at your own pace and choose from many options, including a single day, several days or a week. Practical Tips for International Visitors Bring comfortable walking shoes (Waimea Valley means walking.) A lovely outdoor cafe and gift shop await if you don't feel like the mile-long falls roundtrip. Pack swimwear and a towel if you want to dive or swim by the waterfall. Carry light layers wind at Pali Lookout can be strong. Bring a reusable water bottle. Charge your camera or phone you’ll need it. Most importantly, come curious. Ask questions. Engage with the cultural guides. Hawaii is a place of stories, and the E Noa tour introduces them. You'll get Turk or another interesting guide, proud of the island's rich history and knowledgeable about every aspect of Oahu. Final Thoughts, Tips The Best Circle Island Tour Oahu (by E Noa) is more than sightseeing -- it’s storytelling through landscapes, people and legends. From sacred cliffs and peaceful temples to surf towns and pineapple fields, the island reveals itself layer by layer. For international travelers seeking both culture and fun, this is one of the most comprehensive and rewarding experiences we've found on Oahu. If you only have one full day to explore beyond Waikiki, make it this one. The spirit of aloha awaits. To book the Circle Island, a Pearl Harbor tour or Waikiki Trolley: enoa.com Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers explore San Francisco and the Exploratorium as part of a cityPASS. The nifty tourist card is available in 18 North American cities and our travel writers use it in many places to save time, money and hassle and get the most out of a short time in a chosen destination. Up Next: We explore the advantages of an excellent tourist card, CityPASS to explore 18 North American cities. The passes save money, time and worry and allows visitors to enjoy each city's unique attractions and experiences. We highlight five CityPASS destinations, with insight into what you'll see in San Diego, San Francisco, Atlanta, Seattle and New York. Remember to explore and catch us weekly for travel tips and a fresh spin on performance, culture, nature, family and more. Share the links, and let us know what you'd like to see.

  • Yellowstone Park in winter: beautiful, chilly home on the range for snow coach visitors

    Yellowstone Park in winter - Snow coaches are the way to see Yellowstone Park in winter; Cookie prepares to board on a recent visit.  HEATED SNOW COACH PROVIDES PERFECT PARK VIEWING, BUT DRESS FOR THE COLD IN THE FREEZE   Bison are built for winter, and this guy stops snow coach traffic to make his his way across a road in Yellowstone during winter. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER THE SNOW actually seems to float upwards.  Sure, it's also coming down , and going sideways . "It's slanted snow," one youngster whooped in delight, as our snow coach slowed for a bison crossing. The critters have frost on their ears and icicles on their eyebrows. Better have a wool scarf, warm socks and a good cap because you will feel the chill, no kidding. WE'RE IN ONE  of the only vehicles allowed in much of the park -- snow coaches that is -- and it's a typical Yellowstone winter. No cars or trucks are allowed -- snow coaches only.  Yellowstone Park in winter means seeing the park in a new light -- fewer crowds, frigid temperatures, and steaming geyser basins.  For a period each winter, only snow coaches can traverse the park's inner roads.  "Oversnow" travel usually ends in mid-March, when plowing crews begin clearing a winter's worth of snow. Usually, as spring comes and temperatures climb, roads start re-opening to normal cars. This usually occurs by mid-April. Keller and Cookie enjoyed a winter trip to the park last February.   So how cold does it get -- really? I asked a park ranger on our last frigid visit. He said temperatures range from zero to 20F (-20C to -5C) throughout the day. Sub-zero temperatures are common, especially at night and at higher elevations. THE RANGER pointed out that while some people complain about cold and snow, winter provides a better opportunity than summer to view wildlife and birds. We saw eagles and bison, elk and even a solitary moose. This beautiful hawk doesn't seem to mind winter, for the snow makes it easier to view and find a snack. The absence of leaves also makes it easier for us to see him -- here, on a cottonwood in West Yellowstone. We observed hawks that we would have overlooked in the summer, as they stood out in the winter trees in a way they don't when the trees are full of leaves in the warmer seasons. In early winter, one can hear elk bugling, and watch elk and moose looking for girlfriends. The river is not quite frozen, yet, but will sport ice in the shallows as winter progresses. In Jackson Hole to the south, one can take a sleigh ride through an elk herd.  IN YELLOWSTONE, winter offers a chance to cross-country ski past geysers, snowboard near Old Faithful Snow Lodge and Cabins or watch wolves in Lamar Valley. The warm and inviting Old Faithful Snow Lodge is welcoming, warm and cozy after a day of snow play and critter viewing. There are also photographic tours of the park during winter, and many ways for travelers to combine their lust for "the great photo" with a pleasant wildlife viewing outing. WE LIKE  to stay a night or two in West Yellowstone before and after a tour. Snow coaches also leave from Gardiner.  Beware, though, if you plan to drive the park on your own, the only road open year-round to regular traffic is from the North Entrance at Gardiner, through the park to Cooke City, via Tower Junction. Travel east of Cooke City via the famed Beartooth Highway is not possible from late fall to late spring. WEATHER  permitting, roads will open to travel soon by snowmobile and snowcoach next month: Dec. 15: West Entrance to Old Faithful, Mammoth to Old Faithful, Canyon to Norris, Canyon to Lake, Old Faithful to West Thumb, South Entrance to Lake, Lake to Lake Butte Overlook. Dec. 22:  East Entrance to Lake Butte Overlook (Sylvan Pass)To find out more: yellowstonepark.com/park/yellowstone-road-access-winter UP NEXT: What makes a splendid hotel? Claris Hotel and Spa in central Barcelona is a showpiece in Spain, an elegant, renowned property with a private art collection endowed by the Derby Hotel Groups' owner, whose art treasures compose Europe's largest private collection.   The hotel,  in the renowned Eixample district of the city, has a five-star reputation for luxury, on the vibrant Passeig de Gràcia, with a stunning rooftop bar, a knowledgeable and multi-lingual staff, proximity to Gaudi sites and pampering amenities. Elegant artwork from Europe's largest private collection greets visitors to Barcelona's Claris Hotel and Spa in Barcelona's Eixample District. Come splurge with us, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us Fridays when we post anew, a fresh approach to travel, nature and the arts. Visit us for more travel tips and adventures Whereiscookie.com

  • Fantastic Fort Lauderdale: Attractions include fun water taxi, new Jungle Queen show

    Jungle Queen is an institution in Fort Lauderdale, a beloved icon of the city and a four-generation enterprise.  She's "reinvented" her evening cruise, dinner and show on a private island. Delightful!  Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers transit the waterways of Fort Lauderdale on its beloved water taxi system . Fun sights and lavish homes abound along Fort Lauderdale's waterways. Here, a narration aboard Jungle Queen. JUNGLE QUEEN IS 'REIMAGINED' WITH NEW DINNER SHOW PLUS FUN ON THE TOWN'S WATER TAXIS   The Jungle Queen has its own private island and takes you there for a new show. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" WE LOVE Fort Lauderdale, that seductive southern Florida city long beloved by the rich and famous.  Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz had a bungalow there. Superstar Jennifer Lopez and retired  NBA star Shaquille O'Neal both own  luxurious waterfront properties with six bedrooms, eight bathrooms and impressive outdoor pools.  Movie, sports and music stars own lavish homes with opulent dining rooms, Olympic size swimming pools, spas and outdoor kitchens as big as most peoples' homes.  Many stars and sports figures keep yachts here.  Stephen Speilberg gigantic vessel was anchored near our hotel. If you're flush, you can rent it for $1 million a week.  We enjoy playing tourist, admiring these homes again and again aboard Fort Lauderdale's Water Taxi.  We also enjoy Jungle Queen with its fun entertainment, waterways tour and revamped dinner show at its private island. We booked the "full Monty" including cruise, dinner and show. The Polynesian show equals ones we've seen in the South Pacific, with authentic dancers, fine musicians and traditional hula garb. JUNGLE QUEEN  is one of South Florida’s best-known attractions, and recently debuted its new river cruise and island experience.  It's called “Ignite the Night." The moniker derives from fire torches waved artfully about in Jungle Queen's Polynesian show which follows a tasty island inspired dinner. WE VISITED with other tourists after boarding near the Bahia-Mar Yachting Center. Libations in hand, we began a lively 90-minute sightseeing cruise along the New River past luxurious homes and the eye-catching downtown of Fort Lauderdale. Thousands have enjoyed Jungle Queen dinner cruises since the family owned company was born in 1935.   The evening's tropical isle visit is a tourist must with its entertaining Polynesian show and time to enjoy the gardens, birds and other wildlife. One may book the sightseeing cruise only if dinner and entertainment seem too much, but the four hours of the combined event offer a good deal for a family gathering or date night. Fantastic Fort Lauderdale -- Where to stay? We like to stay at the well located Hotel Bahia Mar on Seabreeze Blvd., a Hilton Doubletree.  We enjoy it because it's an easy walk to both Jungle Queen and Fort Lauderdale's famed Water Taxi dock, so we don't need to rent a car.  Once on board the spiffy Jungle Queen, we relaxed for a 90-minute sightseeing cruises along the New River past luxurious homes and downtown Fort Lauderdale. Beautiful waterfront homes are part of the allure of a water taxi ride. Jungle Queen The interesting commentary of the rich and famous and their homes is followed by arrival on the island.  Then the feast begins.  Drinks are available here and on the boat, from simple house wines to signature concoctions. There's time to wander, admire the trees and flowers, and an area devoted to the place's interesting history.  Don't miss this fascinating display of memorabilia -- pictures and mementos -- when you get to the island. The Polynesian show is one of the most lively we've seen and we've seen dozens of them in Hawaii, Fiji, Samoa and elsewhere.  This one is first-rate, with  hula and fire dancers, fire eaters and more, expertly presented by Drums of Polynesia.  IF YOU  tried Jungle Queen a few years ago, it's time to revisit the evening because you'll see an entirely new show. Says third-generation president Michael Faber. “We are excited that we've taken the evening in a new direction." He calls the show, "a new, reimagined Jungle Queen experience. Times and tastes change, and today’s audiences want something new." SO THE  old-fashioned Polynesian island show of yore has a new look, and is now what many consider one of the world's best. The new adventure starts at 6 p.m. with the hour-long narrated sightseeing cruise. We joined 385 other passengers as we traveled down Fort Lauderdale’s New River and the Intracoastal Waterway, nicknamed “The Venice of America” The four-hour dinner and show ticket includes a tropical isle visit, a satisfying meal including chicken, ribs and all the fixings, and high quality island entertainment. We've seen dozens of shows in Fiji, the Hawaiian and Cook Islands.  We were surprisingly pleased with the high quality of this show.  It is respectful and lively, an authentic homage to the Pacific Islanders and their colorful songs, dances and religion. FOR YEARS, we've enjoyed  fantastic Fort Lauderdale and its unique Water Taxi system which offers 20 stops ranging from high-end shopping areas to seafood  restaurants, a lovely state park and a variety of bars, museums, galleries and historic sites. It's a lovely way to transit a beautiful city whether you're looking for a beverage at  Margaritaville, a souvenir to take home or a stroll along the gorgeous winding Riverwalk.  We always enjoy this easy going and relaxed mode of revisiting the highlights of the city. Aboard both water taxi and Jungle Queen, one may contemplate the city's history, beauty and attractions while watching its vibrant water life pass by. Fort Lauderdale's Water Taxi program can take you many places. junglequeen.com watertaxi.com  *************************************************************************  NEXT UP :  Now that we've journeyed around Fort Lauderdale by water, we explore this inviting Florida city by land.  Not just any land transport, but a Segway tour! If you've been afraid to try a Segway, you're not alone. But our chief writer and editor, Christene "Cookie" Meyers, is a reformed Segway coward and born again Segway enthusiast, thanks to a wonderful guide and a beautiful venue. Enjoy Fort Lauderdale's pleasures on land next time, remembering to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, art, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

  • A dog's life with Christene Meyers on the road!

    Nick enjoys a romp at Harrah's Rincon near San Diego. Make your journey fun, safe and smooth sailing when you're traveling with four-footed pals   Nora is not certain she is enthused about a walk during a break between flights.      whether by plane or car, these tips will help you and pup enjoy STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" Nick and Nora, Cookie and Keller enjoy a  break during Montana travel. IF YOUR  four-footed friend is part of the family, as are our Nick and Nora, you'll want to take them with you when you travel. Whether you journey by car or plane, these few tricks from a lifetime of traveling with pets, are offered to help make your journey and your pup's more pleasurable. FIRST, DO  your homework. If you're driving, make a plan for stops based on dog friendly hotels and motels.  There are many nowadays -- not the case 25 years ago when only a few hostelries accepted pets.  Now, pets may stay with you in many places -- even Nick is at home with his toy, enjoying the Omni Hotel in Los Angeles.  some fancy B&Bs, and in certain Hyatts, Hiltons, Ritz Carltons, Red Lions, Best Westerns, Ramadas, and so on. We've taken our Yorkies to the beautiful Omni in Los Angeles, where they were given their own gift bag and special treats. WE'VE ENJOYED  the hospitality of a lovely dog-friendly wing at Harrah's Rincon northeast of San Diego. First, driving with your pups: *Once you've determined your route --  based on dog-friendly options -- make your reservations, asking for a room on a floor convenient to exiting. *Don't plan to do more than 300 or 350 miles a day- that's plenty for both human and canine. Nick and Nora are pooped but patient after a day on the road.  *Give pup his own place of honor in the car, on his own comfy pillow or doggie bed.  If it's hot, make sure he has plenty of air from the conditioner, or a crack in the window. *Take frequent breaks, at least every 100 or 125 miles. Walk a bit, to a creek or river, or in a pleasant park or rest stop. *Have a couple bottles of ice water in the cooler and make sure you offer pup plenty of water both inside and outside the car. Bring his own water bowl if you've room. *Minimize treats, offering a couple times a day, as a reward for playing catch with the toys you've taken along or walking with you. A stroll on Fisherman's Wharf for Nick, Nora, Cookie. *Have a separate tote bag for doggie stuff -- leashes, treats, enough kibbles for at least three meals. (No need to haul a 15-pound bag into the room each night, so leave the large stash in the car.) *Be sure you have pup's medical documents safely packed in his tote. Make certain his shots are current. *Include a favorite blanket or pillow to make him secure in the room. Let him socialize, if you normally do.  He'll make new friends on your walks. So will you. *Once you're inside, set out his water bowl immediately and put the blanket on a chair or bed where he'll be spending time.  Let him get familiar with the place. *Always carry a couple doggie pee-pads and put one in the bathroom just in case. Your pup will probably not have an accident, but sometimes travel can distress. Be forgiving. * KEEP TO  his schedule as best you can and don't leave him too long in the room. Nick takes a snooze on the road in dog-friendly Carmel. *We always tune in a TV program for Nick and Nora, usually the Discovery Channel, CNN or PBS. Classical music or jazz also seems to keep our pups calm.  Give a treat as you leave the room and thank pup for being such a good traveler. On a plane, things are a bit more complicated. *Make sure the airline knows you're "traveling with pet in cabin" and this means an extra charge -- usually $125 or $150 for coming and going. *Purchase or borrow the regulation carrier provided by pet stores and airline approved. *Get your vet to give you a prescription for a pet tranquilizer and use it a half-hour before you hit the airport. Keller, Nick and Nora in Santa Barbara. * GIVE PET  a good walk before you fly, and feed him about an hour before you head for the airport. That way, pup will likely sleep -- with the food digesting and his prescription tranquilizer (we use only half a pill for our 10-pounders and it's plenty). *Take off his collar before you head for TSA. Makes it easier because you'll have to carry him through x-ray with you (obviously, he must be taken out of his carry-on.) *Take along an EMPTY water bottle in his sherpa, and fill it as soon as you clear security. *Don't take him out of the carry-on -- it is forbidden. (I learned the hard way.) *Talk to him often -- he'll be under the seat in front of you. *Save your plastic cup. After you drink your cranberry juice or soda, use it to offer a drink to pup. *Tuck the leash in your purse or pup's carry-on. *Offer a treat once or twice during the flight and if it's a long day of travel, you may need to "re-up" the tranquilizer. In Downey, Calif., at the home of friends, the Yorkies are part of the family. *Tell your seat-mate that you have a doggie under the seat in case he yelps or causes a disturbance -- which may happen, but usually doesn't. *Take advantage of airport "doggie stations" if you're traveling more than one or two legs and have long lay-overs. You have to go back out of security, then in again, but your pet will thank you.  Some cities such as Davis, Calif., Salt Lake City, Phoenix, Portland and Seattle have cute little dog-walk parks right on airport grounds. *Travel safely and with patience and humor! AT LEAST  one airline -- Alaska -- is considering giving mileage points for pet travel.  They should. It's expensive and we do all the work when the pet's in the cabin with us!  Torrey Pines Glider Port attracts tourists, locals, at sunset . COMING SOON:   A look at the magnificent Bair Museum in Martinsdale, a little treasure tucked away in the Crazy Mountains.  And summer fun with music, a world class glider port in San Diego, photography pointers and reveling in the natural world. Explore, learn and live Wednesdays and Saturdays at: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Christene Meyers Where is love? An invisible bird's on my shoulder

    By CHRISTENE MEYERS     SOMEHOW , some day, somewhere.      The lyrics to that memorable “West Side Story” song always make me think of my mother, Ellen, and my youngest sister, Robbie. Heretic though I claim to be, I like to think that somehow, some day, somewhere, I’ll see them both again. Cavorting on a cruise ship, from left: Robbie, Ellen and Cookie.  I miss them. On a recent, rare melancholy rainy San Diego day, I thought of them:   Of all the plays they’ve missed since they died – mum in 2008 and Robbie two years later in 2010.   Of how much joy they received from travel – we had many trips together.  Thinking how they'd both have voted for Obama.  Of of how they struggled to stay happy – each with her personal demons – depression, troubled relationships and more. Thinking of how damned funny they were, how humor helped patch them through.  Both were wise-cracking dames, quick with the one-liner. Neither suffered fools.  Both loved children.  Robbie was a doting and supportive step-mum to an adopted son and daughter during her 22-year marriage. She excelled as an advocate in her childcare profession.  Mum was a lauded counselor, pursuing advanced degrees in social work and counseling well into her forties. Both were devoted to family and friends.  Robbie as a married woman enjoyed hosting all of us to elaborate Thanksgivings, much as mum had done when we were youngsters. THE TWO  were deeply connected to one another – Robbie was the much adored baby of the family and she and I were the “bookends,” oldest and youngest. Rob loved to hear mum tell the story of her impending birth, on a wintry January Friday evening while the family was preparing for a basketball game. Mum died of heart failure at age 79.  We had hoped we'd have her as long on Earth as we did her mother, my beloved gran, Olive.  Yet mum lived eight years less than gran.  Which of course prompts my wondering: how long have I on the planet? Carpe diem. Robbie was 47 when she died – suddenly of an accidental prescription drug overdose on her way back to our Montana home.  A toxic mix of two powerful drugs took her from us but I think she died partly of a broken heart.  She never recovered from our mother's death. Robbie loved the water and taught the Yorkies to swim .      I owe so much to both of these irreplaceable, compassionate women.  Both loved Europe and getting there on non-stop, first-class flights.  Both loved theater – we saw “Fosse” together in London, “Anything Goes” in New York and many shipboard revues and musicals, the three of us holding hands, sitting side by side, laughing, applauding.  The acorns fell close to the tree because gran took our mother to plays and musicals as a babe in arms.  In 1964, mum held baby Robbie on her lap for Rob's first Broadway play.  It was at the Imperial Theater in New York City. Center-orchestra, Row D tickets to “Oliver” were $4.95! Robbie loved "Where is Love," the soulful song young orphan Oliver sings, yearning for affection, hoping for parents. Cookie, Nick and Nora outside Robbie's home in Davis, Calif.      AFTER THE  musical, we dined at Sardi’s.  The next day, we toured the city. Daddy carried Robbie into the torch of the Statue of Liberty and all over the World's Fair grounds. He loved to tell the story of the policeman who approached him outside the "Pieta" exhibit when he couldn't get Robbie to stop crying.  Mum had taken the rest of the brood inside the gift shop to purchase miniature statues.  After a long conversation, and mum's return, the policeman was convinced that Rob wasn't being kidnapped.      Both mum and Rob were lifelong dog lovers and adored the Yorkies, Nick and Nora.  Robbie was the conduit for bringing them into my life.  I’ll always be grateful to California – not only for providing Keller and San Diego as my winter inspiration – but for producing Nick and Nora.      In November of 2005, the day after my husband, Billy, died, Robbie flew to Phoenix immediately, scooped me up after we delivered Bill's body to the crematorium, and suggested a week in Davis, while we awaited Bill's ashes.  Our four ancient dogs had died in the months of Billy’s final fight with cancer.  Smedley the sheepdog, Max the pound rescue mutt, Eddie the basset and Ruth the retriever all lived into their late teens.  To have them all die – then my daddy, then Billy – was “a powerful visit to the world of death and grief” as my grandpa Gus might have said.    Days before he died, Billy wheeled his IV into his office and made a print-out on the Yorkshire terrier, suggesting a pair would be good pets for me after his passing.  “You could call them “Carry” and “On” he penned in his farewell note to me, knowing I'd be flying with them. Nick and Nora spent a lot of time in Davis, Calif., with sister Robbie and Cookie.  Robbie's professional connections found the Yorkies.        WHEN ROBBIE  received an in-house memo about two Yorkies for sale, we raced over to the house in Sacramento and met my future pups.  I wrote a check that evening. The pups spent much time with Rob in Davis.  She taught them to swim and helped potty-train them while I was in Europe.      My mother loved the pups, too. Nick and Nora quickly worked their way into her heart. They were sleeping at the foot of her bed that cold January night she died at home in Montana, surrounded by 18 Cosgriffes and the Yorkies.      Neither Robbie nor mum saw my home in San Diego.  Neither had a chance to walk the beach here with me and watch the gorgeous La Jolla sunsets.     THEY DIDN'T  see “Threepenny Opera” at the Lyceum, or “Sweeney Todd” at the Cygnet or “The Lion in Winter” at North Coast Rep.  My gran, the family’s champion dog lover, adopter of hundreds of strays and player of both church organ and “bordello piano,” might disagree with that.  “In heaven,” she once told me, “one may see a play or hear a concert at a whim.  And since there is no concept of time, one can see and hear what one wants, at one’s chosen pace, whenever one chooses.”  Presumably, without intermission!         She also believed in time travel and the ability to visit from the beyond. “Everyone we love is with us forever,” she told me.  “All we have to do is think of them.” Cookie and her mum, Thanksgiving at Robbie's in Davis, Calif.          She believed spirits stick around and can be communicated with. “Think of them as little birds on your shoulder.  Talk to them.  Tell them what you’re  thinking.”        I welcome the Robbie Bird, the Mummy Bird.  Come pet the Yorkies.  We'll hit the beach, grab a cocktail and appetizer at La Jolla Shores while the sun sets. Then we’ll head for a musical.   Maybe book our next European cruise. Somehow.  Some day.  Somewhere. COMING WEDNESDAY:  Cookie and Keller take a road trip to Hellhole Canyon Preserve, with a nod to the flora and fauna of that little known part of California. whereiscookie.com Do sign up for the blog if you haven't yet. And  watch the sunset in a different place each night!

  • Key West Food Tour: Dining delights in munching our way on a tasty, Cuban inspired path through a colorful town

    Before the restaurant opened  to the public, our small tasting group was invited in to El Siboney, a small, family-run eatery part of an enjoyable food tasting tour in Key West, Florida.   Conch fritters are on the menu at Mangoes, a lively fish eatery in Key West. The walking tour features five fun restaurants and lots of local history. Pork, beans and rice are a staple of the Cuban diet here served casually at El Siboney.   CUBAN FOOD, VINTAGE CARS, MUSIC, COFFEE SCENERY SUGGEST HAVANA -- BUT YOU'RE HAPPILY DINING IN KEY WEST, U.S.A. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER "The Carpe Diem Kids" ONE CAN dine like a king, snacking your way through a leisurely few hours in Key West, where the scents and tastes of Cuba and the Caribbean are a very real part of life. We took a fun foodie's walking and tasting tour and we're going back for seconds! El Siboney takes its name from the Indian people who inhabited the Key West region. Kayla introduces herself and the menu's offerings. What a moveable feast -- small bites of food, glorious food, with the emphasis on spice and seasonings one associates with the Caribbean, Cuba and South America. Throw in vintage cars sprinkled around the town, a walking tour with stops at historic places, and you've got a fun three or four-hour escape.    The Speakeasy Rum Bar  is a Key West landmark. It and its adjacent inn are popular with tourists. Key West food tour highlights WE BEGAN  eating while our guide, Kayla, introduced us to the restaurants and our first dish, a classic pork, beans and rice offering.  Cubans eat lots of pork  and the Florida transplants brought their dining traditions. Kayla, who grew up in Mexico, is studying business and saving for her own food truck to specialize in Caribbean cooking. She comes from a family of good cooks, knows her Key West history and has flair and ambition. Every stroll in Key West is bound to encounter a protected rooster or two. WE TOOK OUR comfy chairs at our first restaurant,  El Siboney, with its colorful posters and friendly, family oriented ambience. Many consider El Siboney the most authentic Cuban restaurant in Key West. It is named for an indigenous tribe that inhabited Cuba circa 1492. It's also the name of a small town where the Cuban revolution began.  Kayla gave us an overview of our two-plus hour adventure while a group of six enjoyed a small plate of shredded pork, rice and a side dish of beans, served in the traditional way, with a wedge of lime and a slice of buttery Cuban bread -- slightly sweet and tasty. Vintage cars are part of the Key West allure, much as in Cuba, where old cars are on show. Mahi mahi with goat cheese and mango is a hit at Kaya. The signature key lime pie, with whipped cream and berries.  AFTER A FUN, quarter-mile stroll through a pretty palm tree-lined neighborhood, we arrived at the Speakeasy Inn and Rum Bar for a refreshing libation.  The bar tender briefed us on the history of the famous landmark. Now a bar and guest house, it was once the home of Raul Vasquez, who was a cigar selector at the Gato cigar factory. Raul’s passion was rum-running between Key West and Cuba.   Kaya Island Eats is one of the stops on the tasting tour. It is favorite with locals. WE CHOSE a non-alcoholic alternative to the rum cocktail since it was barely mid-day, then we were off again, headed to Mangoes on Key West's main artery, the colorful and lively Duvall Street. Here, we enjoyed the town's most famous menu item, conch fritters, served fresh and hot from the fryer, with lime and a tangy aioli.  At each stop, we were given time to stroll, ask questions of the chef, enjoy the artwork, and relax between courses. Next, Kaya Island Eats, where the chef, a Maui transplant, served us a delicious  small-plate serving of delectable mahi mahi, perfectly seared and topped with lovely goat cheese crumbles and a lime reduction.  After the food tour, Keller and Cookie took a short stroll to Key West's beautiful lighthouse. The town is walkable and user friendly with historic homes and museums all around.   LIMES ARE as much a part of the Key West culture as are the roosters and chickens which stroll about, protected by law with stiff fines for annoying or  hurting them. So our finale was that classic dessert -- Key Lime Pie -- served on the palm lined patio of Cuban Coffee Queen, where we'd stocked up on coffee beans the day before. The savory pie and a small glass of sweet, kick-ass Cuban coffee capped the tour.  Each of these places would make a fun separate stop, but the food tour's the way to go for a delightful edible overview of a fascinating town.      Fla-keys.com/key-west/ keywestfoodtours.com ;  historictours.com ;  cityofkeywest-fl.gov/ keywestchamber.org A fun family outing to swim with the dolphins awaits at Hilton Waikoloa Village on The Big Island of Hawaii. UP NEXT :  The dolphins are calling. And Hawaii beckons. One of the few places in the world where families can swim -- supervised and with care -- with dolphins, is at Hilton Waikoloa Village on the Big Island. In search of dolphins and a chance to swim with them, we give pointers on booking a family dolphin outing. Fabulous fun for the generations. Then we take you to Kauai, and the Big Island for some fun away from crowds. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, cruising, the arts, family, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com

  • Mother's Day remembrance: Complex relationships treasured for their gifts

    Bruce Keller and his mother, Jean Keller, board a harbor cruise at Oceanside, where Jean taught Keller to paint as a lad. STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS RECENT PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER, and CM "The Carpe Diem Kids" It's always a bit melancholy in our home on the second Sunday in May. Both Keller and I are orphans now.  We remember lavish brunches, parties, cruises, corsages and other merriment when we think of our mums.  We had similar celebrations, albeit thousands of miles and several states apart.  Both of us fussed over our mothers.   Our two mums never met, but if they had, we think they'd have been friends. Keller's mother, Jean, was a talented watercolor painter with a snappy sense of dress and style. She painted into her 90s and loved colorful scarves. She always had a bouquet in the home. The writer, Christene, with her mother, Ellen Cosgriffe, during a Thanksgiving celebration in Davis, Calif. My mum, Ellen, was a gifted musician and singer who owned a steamer trunk of beautiful shoes and loved hats. My mother was drum major in college and played violin in the university orchestra. She and I played piano duets even on her last trip to my Beartooth Mountains Montana place. She, too, loved posies. Keller's mother pursued a promising art career at University of Minnesota, and left in her senior year to be an artist in Hollywood.  She told her family she was going on spring break, but returned from southern California only on holidays. She gave Keller his sense of adventure. My mother had wanderlust, too, planning trips to Europe and touring Montana and Wyoming as a high schooler, playing dances with the Nystul Family Orchestra in World War II days. Her $5 fee per gig fed her shoe fund. She planned our family's ambitious six-week trip to New York and New England in 1964, complete with 19 pieces of baggage and trains, boats, cars and planes, Broadway plays, Yankee games, Monticello, Plymouth and the World's Fair. Both mums were funny women. Quick with one-liners. When I met Jean near the end of her life, she was in an assisted living complex.  As we were helping her out the door for a harbor brunch cruise, she told me, "You're not the first woman he's brought to see  me.  But you're definitely the most interesting." A few months later, when Alzheimer's altered her memory, she was looking through vintage albums with Keller and came across a photo of Keller's dad Bill. "That's your father," Jean offered. "He was a handsome man, but I don't believe we ever met!" Baby Cookie and her parents. My mother liked to say that her mother wasn't a big fan of sex.  "Close your eyes and think of something pleasant," mum quoted gran. "But she must have had sex twice," mum demurred, "or you wouldn't have a mother or your Uncle Bob." My mum taught me the actor's good luck line:  "break a leg." Keller's mother taught him "forgive and forget" and "don't go backwards." Both liked dancing and gardening.  Both were inventive cooks, who didn't need the luxury of a recipe.  Memories of Jean's lemon pie make Keller misty-eyed. Or picking bags of pomegranates with her, steadying the ladder as she reached for the fruit. My mother's specialty was Sunday brunch for each birthday, with a buffet of pineapple, ham, biscuits and Hawaiian punch. Both loved us dearly. So their legacy lingers as we remember what they taught us this weekend.   Baby Keller and his mum and dad. My mother taught me to tap dance and play piano.  We practiced comedy routines in the bathroom and she helped me draft my first essay, "How to Eat a Daisy," which I delivered in the best deadpan I could muster to the delight of my fifth-grade class.  When I bowed to accept the applause, I experienced a Julia Child-like sense of breathless elation. Thanks, mum. Her high school principal told me that she became valedictorian "by her astounding brain power.  It wasn't by studying or going to school because she missed class half the time and still aced every test." Mum would rather play piano, write poetry, sketch or listen to Bizet. Keller's mother pulled him from school for day trips to the sea in Oceanside near their family home.  That's where she loved to paint and she set an easel for little Keller, teaching him colors and shapes, and an abiding wonder at nature.  He swam in the ocean, brought her shells, shared her picnic and learned from Jean the painterly sense that marks his fine photography.  It is evident in his beautiful photos, always framed with his sharp eye. And he knows every seashell, sea plant and amphibian. Thanks to Jean for fanning those fires.   Ellen enjoys a cuddle with Nora, just out of a bath. The relationship with one's mother is one of life's most complex.  Everything wasn't always roses in our family. Nor for Keller and his parents. Like many households of the 1950s, both of ours  experienced alcohol abuse. Both my parents struggled with alcohol and daddy was not always faithful, leading to divorce when I was 17. (Both were, happily for all, clean and sober for many decades.)   But as a child, little Cookie became her mother's  "little helper." I was 10 when the wheels came off the van, and the next years were tough for the family. Thank heavens for having gran next door.  Looking back, I figure that all the turmoil short-changed my childhood.  But it also made me strong and generous of heart, empathetic to others, capable and self-assured. Mum, brilliant mum, emerged from her darkness, returned to college, finished a couple degrees, learned Spanish, forged a career in counseling and became my pal. Remarkably, she and my father remained lifelong friends and mum became my father's caretaker when he contracted Alzheimer's -- even though they had been long been divorced. Keller's parents, Bill and Jean, on an outing in the post-war 1940s. After daddy's death, mum often visited my country place in the Beartooths of Montana, and we spent long weekends at High Chaparral listening to Broadway musicals, talking about family, watching birds, reading, fixing lovely meals (no recipes!) doting on the Yorkies.  I regret that Keller and mum never met -- she died the year we started dating. An only child, Keller dearly desired a baby brother or sister.  When he asked his parents if he could please have a sibbling, he was around age 10, my critical time, too. He was told "no way, it's not going to happen." Keller's parents had begun to argue -- his dad, too, had an alcohol problem.  So Keller left home between high school and college, removing himself from the conflict.  When he journeyed to the Middle East to work on the Red Sea for several years, he pursued his travel and aquatic interests. When he returned to finish college, he reconnected with his parents and after his father passed away, he became his mother's treasured friend and visited her weekly in Oceanside. On Sunday drives, they drove to the harbor of Cookie and Jean board a harbor cruise at Oceanside, with Keller's son, Branden, and his girlfriend Karie. Keller's youth, where Jean taught him to paint and explore the shore. He misses those Sunday drives, their day trips to the harbor they both loved, their suppers in the fish place or her favorite Chinese restaurant. At the harbor, Keller would bring pictures she'd painted 50 years earlier, and those evoked memories and stories. Memory is what keeps our loved ones alive. Love is the link between life and death. So here's to our mothers. Their mothers (that's another story!). Your mother. Mothers  everywhere. If you've lost touch, it's not too late to rekindle the friendship. If you're an orphan like we are, honor the good things your mother did for you. If you're lucky enough to still have your mother, do something fun for her.  I am thankful to have traveled to Europe several times with mum, seeing the world she introduced me to with the wonders of theater, restaurants and museums. I'll treasure to my own urn the knowledge that mum had a happy marriage -- for a while -- that she and daddy loved one another then came full circle late in life.  Keller believes his parents had good years, turmoil then stabilization. They were married nearly 50 years. Cookie's parents, Ellen and Richard, had many happy times. I think of our mothers' love of travel, passed on to us me. I see my mum smiling in the entrance of the Paris Opera House, climbing the steps to the Louvre, sailing under London Bridge. Sitting to the captain's left on a world cruise!  Keller's full circle with his mother was completed on the same beach where she taught him to paint. Lucky, lucky, us. I picture our two spirited mums sitting around a coffee table or in a bird-bedecked garden, gossiping about books or politics, planning a cruise together, singing '40s tunes, or hitting the casino for a little blackjack.  Maybe they'd take in a Broadway play.  Break a leg! COMING WEDNESDAY : San Diego hosts its second chocolate fest on the harbor in the Berkeley ferry.  We learn about the delectable concoction and its history, sample a few chocolate treats and prepare to sail on the historic Californian complete with cannon boom! www.whereiscookie.com ,  and remember to explore, learn and live.

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